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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


AUD 


THE   NAGA  HILLS 


• 
t 


MY    EXPERIENCES 


IN 


MANIPUE  AND  THE  NAGA  HILLS 


BY   THE   LATE 

MAJOR-GENERAL  SIR  JAMES  JOHNSTONE 

K.C.S.I. 


WITH    AN    INTRODUCTORY    MEMOIR 


ILLUSTRATED 


LONDON 
SAMPSON    LOW,    MAKSTON   AND    COMPANY 

LIMITED 


FETTER  LANE,   FLEET   STREET,   E.G. 
1896 


LONDON: 
PRINTED   BY   WILLIAM  CLOWES  AND  SONS,   LIMITED, 

STAMFORD  STREET   AND  CHARING   CROSS. 


I  DEDICATE 

THESE   PAGES  TO  THE   MEMORY   OF 


WHO   SHARED   IN   MANY   OF   MY  LABOURS   AND    ANXIETIES 

IN   MANII'UR,   AND   THE   NAGA   HILLS, 
AND   WHOSE   SPIRIT  INSPIRED  ME   IN  MY   LAST  ENTERPRISE, 

AND   WHO,    HAD   SHE    LIVED, 

WOULD   HAVE   WRITTEN   A   BKTTER   RECORD  OF 

OUR   EXPERIENCES  THAN   I  HAVE 

BEEN   ABLE  TO  DO. 


AUTHOR'S    PREFACE. 


WHEN  I  first  brought  my  wife  out  to  India  in  1873, 
I  was  struck  by  the  comments  she  made  on  things 
which  had  so  long  been  part  of  rny  daily  life. 
I  had  almost  ceased  to  observe  them.  Every  day 
she  noted  something  new,  and  her  diary  was  so 
interesting  that  I  advised  her  to  write  a  book  on 
her  "  First  Impressions  of  India,"  and  she  meant  to 
do  so,  but  never  had  time.  Had  she  lived,  this 
would  have  been  a  pleasure  to  her,  but  it  was  other- 
wise ordained.  I  feel  now  that  I  am  in  some  way 
carrying  out  her  wishes,  by  attempting  a  description 
of  our  life  in  India,  though  I  am  fully  sensible  that 
I  cannot  hope  to  achieve  the  pleasant  chatty  style  in 
which  she  excelled. 

I  have  also  striven  to  give  a  fair  record  of  the 
events  with  which  I  was  connected  ;  and  perhaps, 
as  they  include  a  description  of  a  state  of  things 
that  has  passed  away  for  ever,  they  may  not  be 
devoid  of  interest.  I  am  one  of  those  old-fashioned 
Anglo-Indians  who  still  believe  in  personal  govern- 
ment, a  system  by  which  we  gained  India,  solidified 
our  rule,  and  made  ourselves  fairly  acceptable  to  the 
people  whom  we  govern.  I  believe  the  machine- 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

like  system  which  we  have  introduced  and  are 
endeavouring  to  force  into  every  corner  of  India, 
till  all  personal  influence  is  killed  out,  to  be  ill- 
adapted  to  the  requirements  of  these  Oriental  races, 
and  blighting  in  its  effects.  Not  one  native  chief 
has  adopted  it  in  its  integrity,  which  is  in  itself  a 
fair  argument  that  it  is  distasteful  to  the  native 
mind ;  and  we  may  be  assured  that  if  we  evacuated 
India  to-morrow,  personal  rule  would  again  make 
itself  felt  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the 
land,  and  grow  stronger  every  day.  I  have  always 
striven  to  be  a  reformer,  but  a  reformer  building  on 
the  solid  foundations  that  we  already  find  every- 
where in  India.  Wherever  you  go,  if  there  is  a 
semblance  of  native  rule  left,  you  find  a  system 
admirably  adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  population, 
though  very  often  grown  over  with  abuses.  Clear 
away  these  abuses,  and  add  a  little  in  the  way  of 
modern  progress,  but  always  building  on  the  founda- 
tion you  find  ready  to  hand,  and  you  have  a  system 
acceptable  to  all. 

We  are  wonderfully  timid  in  sweeping  away  real 
abuses,  for  fear  of  hurting  the  feelings  of  the  people ; 
at  the  same  time  we  weigh  them  down  with  unne- 
cessary, oppressive,  and  worrying  forms,  and  deluge 
the  country  with  paper  returns,  never  realising  that 
these  cause  far  more  annoyance  than  would  be  felt 
at  our  making  some  radical  change  in  a  matter 
which,  after  all,  affects  only  a  minority.  Take,  for 
instance,  the  case  of  suttee,  or  widow-burning.  It 
was  argued  for  years  that  we  could  not  put  it  down 
without  causing  a  rebellion.  What  are  the  facts  ? 
A  governor-general,  blessed  with  moral  courage  in 


PREFACE.  IX 

a  great  degree,  determined  to  abolish  the  barbarous 
custom,  and  his  edict  was  obeyed  without  a  murmur. 
So  it  has  been  in  many  other  cases,  and  so  it  will  be 
wherever  we  have  the  courage  to  do  the  right  thing. 
An  unpopular  tax  would  cause  more  real  dissatis- 
faction than  any  interference  with  bad  old  customs, 
only  adhered  to  from  innate  conservatism.  The 
great  principle  on  which  to  act  is  to  do  what  is  right, 
and  what  commends  itself  to  common  sense,  and  to 
try  and  carry  the  people  with  you.  Do  not  let  us 
have  more  mystery  than  is  necessary ;  telling  the 
plain  truth  is  the  best  course ;  vacillation  is  fatal ; 
the  strongest  officer  is  generally  the  most  popular, 
and  is  remembered  by  the  people  long  after  he  is 
dead  and  gone. 

Personal  rule  is  doomed,  and  men  born  to  be  per- 
sonal rulers  and  a  blessing  to  the  governed,  are  now 
harassed  by  the  authorities  till  they  give  up  in 
despair,  and  swim  with  the  stream. 

The  machine  system  did  not  gain  India,  and  will 
not  keep  it  for  us;  we  must  go  back  to  a  better 
system,  or  be  prepared  to  relax  our  grasp,  and  give 
up  the  grandest  work  any  nation  ever  undertook — 
the  regeneration  of  an  empire  ! 

The  House  of  Commons  has  to  answer  for  much. 
No  Indian  administration  is  safe  from  the  inter- 
ference of  theorists.  To-day  it  is  opium  that  is 
attacked  by  self-righteous  individuals,  who  see  in 
the  usual,  and  in  most  cases  harmless,  stimulant  of 
millions,  a  crying  evil ;  while  they  view  with  appa- 
rent complacency  the  expenditure  of  £120,000,000 
per  annum  on  intoxicating  liquors  in  England,  and 
long  columns  in  almost  every  newspaper  recording 


X  PREFACE. 

brutal  outrages  on  helpless  women  and  children  as 
the  result. 

Then  the  military  administration  is  attacked,  and 
in  pursuance  of  another  chimera,  an  iniquitous  bill 
is  forced  on  the  Government  of  India  calculated 
to  produce  results,  which  will  probably  sap  the 
efficiency  of  our  army  at  a  critical  moment.  So  it 
goes  on,  and  it  is  hardly  to  be  wondered  at  that 
the  authorities  in  India  give  up  resistance  in  sheer 
disgust,  knowing  all  the  while  that,  as  the  French 
say,  le  deluge  must  come  after  them. 

It  may  be  said,  "  What  has  all  this  to  do  with 
Manipur  and  the  Naga  Hills  ?  "  Nothing  perhaps 
directly,  but  indirectly  a  great  deal.  The  system 
which  I  decry  carries  its  evil  influence  everywhere, 
and  Manipur  has  suffered  from  it.  I  describe  the 
Xaga  Hills  and  Manipur  as  they  were  in  old  days. 
I  strove  hard  for  years  to  hold  the  floods  back  from 
this  little  State  and  to  preserve  it  intact,  while  doing 
all  I  could  to  introduce  reforms.  Now  the  floods 
have  overwhelmed  it,  and  if  it  rises  again  above 
them  it  will  not  be  the  Manipur  that  I  knew  and 
loved.  May  it,  in  spite  of  my  doubts  and  fears,  be 
a  better  Manipur. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGK 

INTRODUCTION xix 

CHAPTER  I. 

Arrival  in  India — Hospitable  friends  —  The  Lieut.-Guveruor— 
Journey  to  the  Naga  Hills — Nigriting — Golaghat — A  panther 
reminiscence — Hot  spiings — A  village  dance — Dimapur — My 
new  abode  .........  1 

CHAPTER  II. 

Samagudting — Unhealthy  quarters — A  callous  widower — Want  of 
water — Inhabitants  of  the  Naga  Hills — Captain  Butler — Other 
officials — Our  life  in  the  wilds — A  tiger  carries  off  the  postman 
— An  Indian  forest — Encouragement  .....  12 

CHAPTER  III. 

Historical  events  connected  with   Manipur  and  the  Naga  Hills — 

Different  tribes — Their  religion — Food  and  customs         .         .       22 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Value  of  keeping  a  promise— Episode  of  Sallajeo — Protection  given 
to  small  villages,  and  the  large  one  defied — "  Thorough " 
Government  of  India's  views — A  plea  for  Christian  education  in 
the  Naga  Hills 37 

CHAPTER  V. 

Visit  Dimapur — A  terrible  storm — Cultivation — Aggression  by 
Konoma — My  ultimatum — Konoma  submits — Birth  of  a  son — 
Forest  flowers — A  fever  patient — Proposed  change  of  station — 
Leave  Naga  Hills — March  through  the  forest — Depredation  by 
tigers — Calcutta — Return  to  England  .  .  .  .45 


XI  i  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER, VI. 

PAGE 

Return  to  India — Attached  to  Foreign  Office — Imperial  assemblage 
at  Delhi — Almorah — Appointed  to  Manipur — Journey  to 
Shillong — Cherra  Poojee — Colonel  McOulloch — Question  of 
ceremony  .........  54 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Start  for  Manipur — March  over  the  hills — Lovely  scenery — View  of 

the  valley — State  reception — The   Residency — Visitors.         .       (50 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Visit  the  Maharajah — His  ministers — Former  revolutions — Thangal 

Major      ..........       69 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Manipur — Early  history — Our  connection  with  it — Ghumbeer  Singh 

— Burmese  war          ........       78 

CHAPTER  X. 

Ghumbeer  Singh  and  our  treatment  of  him — Nur  Singh  and  attempt 
on  his  life — McCulloch — His  wisdom  and  generosity — My 
establishment — Settlement  of  frontier  dispute  ...  88 

CHAPTER  XI. 

My  early  days  in  Manipur — The  capital — The  inhabitants — Good 
qualities  of  Manipuris — Origin  of  valley  of  Manipur — Expedi- 
tion to  the  Naga  Hills — Lovely  scenery — Attack  on  Kongal 
Tannah  by  Burmese — Return  from  Naga  Hills — Visit  Kongal 
Tannah  ..........  95 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Discussions  as  to  new  Residency — Its  completion — Annual  boat-races 

— Kang-joop-kool — Daily  work — Dealings  with  the  Durbar     .     101 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Violent  conduct  of  Prince  Koireng — A  rebuke — Service  payment — 
Advantages  of  Manipuri  system — Customs  duties — Slavery — 
Releasing  slaves — Chowbas'  fidelity — Sepoy's  kindness  to  chil- 
dren—Visit to  the  Yoma  range  .  112 


CONTENTS.  Xlll 

PAQE 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

An  old  acquaintance — Monetary  crisis — A  cure  for  breaking  crockery 
— Rumour  of  human  sacrifices — Improved  postal  system — 
Apricots — Mulberries — A  snake  story — Search  after  treasure — 
Another  snake  story — Visit  to  Calcutta — Athletics — Ball 
practice — A  near  shave 122 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Spring  in  Manipur — Visit  Kombang — Manipuri  orderlies— Parade 
of  the  Maharajah's  Guards — Birth  of  a  daughter — An  evening 
walk  in  the  capital — Polo — Visit  to  Cachar  ....  131 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Punishment  of  female  criminals — A  man  saved  from  execution — A 
Kuki  executed — Old  customs  abolished — Anecdote  of  Ghum- 
beer  Singh — The  Manipuri  army — Effort  to  re-organise  Mani- 
pur Levy — System  of  rewards — "  Nothing  for  nothing  " — An 
English  school  —  Hindoo  festivals — Rainbows  —  View  from 
Kang-joop-kool  ........  138 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mr.  Damant  and  the  Naga  Hills — Rumours  on  which  I  act — News 
of  revolt  in  Xaga  Hills  and  Mr.  Damant's  murder — Maharajah's 
loyalty — March  to  the  relief  of  Kohima — Relief  of  Kohima — 
Incidents  of  siege — Heroism  of  ladies — A  noble  defence  .  .  147 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Restoring  order  and  confidence — Arrival  of  Major  Evans — Arrival 
of  Major  Williamson — Keeping  open  communication — Attack 
on  Phesama — Visit  to  Manipur — General  Nation  arrives — Join 
him  at  Suchema — Prepare  to  attack  Konoma — Assault  of 
Konoma 161 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Konoma  evacuated — Journey  to  Suchema  for  provisions  and  ammu- 
nition, and  return — We  march  to  Suchema  with  General — 
Visit  Manipur — Very  ill — Meet  Sir  Steuart  Bayley  in  Cachar 
— His  visit  to  Manipur — Grand  reception — Star  of  India — 
Chussad  attack  on  Chingsow — March  to  Kohima  and  back — 
Reflections  on  Maharajah's  services — Naga  Hills  campaign 
overshadowed  by  Afghan  war 175 


XIV  CONTENTS. 


PAOK 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Visit  Chingsow  to  investigate  Cliussad  outrage — Interesting  country 
— Rhododendrons — Splendid  forest — Chingsow  and  the  murders 
— Chattik — March  back  across  the  hills  .  182 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Saving  a  criminal  from  execution — Konoma  men  visit  me — A 
terrible  earthquake — Destruction  wrought  in  the  capital — 
Illness  of  the  Maharajah — Question  as  to  the  succession — 
Arrival  of  the  Queen's  warrant — Reception  by  the  Maharajah — 
The  Burmese  question 190 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

March  to  Mao  and  improvement  of  the  road — Lieutenant  Raban — 
Constant  troubles  with  Burmah — Visit  to  Mr.  Elliott  at 
Kohima — A  tiger  hunt  made  easy — A  perilous  adventure- 
Rose  bushes — Brutal  conduct  of  Prince  Koireng — We  leave 
Manipur  for  England  .  .  .  .  .  .  .198 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Return  to  Manipur — Revolution  in  my  absence — Arrangements  for 
boundary — Survey  and  settlement — Start  for  Kongal — Bur- 
mese will  not  act — We  settle  boundary — Report  to  Govern- 
ment— Return  to  England .  208 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Return  to  India — Visit  to  Shillong — Manipur  again — Cordial  re- 
ception— Trouble  with  Thangal  Major — New  arts  introduced  .     216 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

A  friend  in  need — Tour  round  the  valley — Meet  the  Chief  Com- 
missioner— March  to  Cachar — Tour  through  the  Tankhool 
country — Metomi  Sarame'ttie—  Somrah — Terrace  cultivators — 
A  dislocation — Old  quarters  at  Kongal  Tannah — Return  to  the 
valley — A  sad  parting  .......  223 


CONTENTS.  xv 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

More  trouble  with  Thangal  Major — Tit-for-tat — Visit  to  the  Kuho 
valley — A  new  Aya  Pooiel — Journey  to  Shillong — War  is 
declared — A  message  to  Kendat  to  the  Borabay-Burmah 
Corporation  agents — Anxiety  as  to  their  fate — March  to  Mao  .  23G 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

News  from  Kendat — Mr.  Morgan  and  his  people  safe — I  determine 
to  march  to  Morch  Tannah — March  to  Kendat — Arrive  in  time 
to  save  the  Bombay-Burmah  Corporation  Agents — Visit  of  the 
Woon— Visit  to  the  Woon 244 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

People  fairly  friendly — Crucifixion — Carelessness  of  Manipuris — I 
cross  the  Chindwin — Recross  the  Chindwin — Collect  provi- 
sions— Erect  stockades  and  fortify  our  position — Revolt  at 
Kendat — We  assume  the  offensive — Capture  boats  and  small 
stockades — Revolt  put  down — Woon  and  Ruckstuhl  rescued 
— Steamers  arrive  and  leave  ......  251 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Mischief  done  by  departure  of  steamers — Determine  to  establish  the 
Woon  at  Tamu — The  country  quieting  down — Recovery  of  mails 
— Letter  from  the  Viceroy — Arrive  at  Manipur — Bad  news — I 
return  to  Tamu — Night  march  to  Pot-tha — An  engagement — 
Wounded — Return  to  Manipur — Farewell — Leave  for  England  260 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

CONCLUSION. 
The  events  of  1890-1 271 

INDEX  .  284 


INTRODUCTORY    MEMOIR. 


THESE  experiences  were  written  in  brief  intervals  of 
leisure,  during  the  last  few  months  of  the  author's 
busy  life,  which  was  brought  to  a  sudden  close 
before  they  were  finally  revised.  Only  last  March 
when  his  nearest  relations  met  at  Fulford  Hall  to 
take  leave  of  the  eldest  son  of  the  house,  before  he 
sailed  for  India,  the  manuscript  was  still  incomplete, 
and  Sir  James  read  some  part  of  it  aloud.  His 
health  had  suffered  greatly  from  over-fatigue  in  the 
unhealthy  parts  of  India,  in  which  his  lot  had  been 
chiefly  cast,  but  it  was  now  quite  restored  and  a 
prolonged  period  of  usefulness  seemed  before  him. 

Improvements  on  the  farms  on  his  estate,  a 
church  within  reach  of  his  cottagers,  to  be  built  as  a 
memorial  to  his  late  wife,  and  the  hope  of  being 
once  more  employed  abroad,  probably  as  a  colonial 
governor,  were  all  plans  for  the  immediate  future, 
while  the  present  was  occupied  with  the  magisterial 
and  other  business  (including  lectures  on  history  in 
village  institutes),  which  fill  up  so  much  of  an 
English  country  gentleman's  life.  He  had  saved 
nothing  in  India.  What  the  Lieutenant-Governor 
of  Bengal  wrote  in  1872  of  his  early  work  at 


XX  INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR. 

Keonjhur,  applied  to  everything  else  he  subse- 
quently undertook  :  "  Captain  Johnstone's  schools, 
twenty  in  number,  continue  to  flourish,  attracting 
an  average  attendance  of  665  children.  Captain 
Johnstone's  efforts  to  improve  the  crops  and  cattle 
of  Keonjhur  have  before  been  remarked  by  the 
Lieutenant-G-overnor.  His  sacrifices  for  this  end 
and  for  his  charge  generally,  are,  His  Honour 
believes,  almost  unique."  *  But  in  1881  by  the 
death  of  his  late  father's  elder  brother,  he  inherited 
the  Fulford  estate  on  the  boundaries  of  Worcester-- 
shire and  Warwickshire,  as  well  as  Dunsley  Manor 
in  Staffordshire.  The  old  Hall  at  Fulford,  a  strongly 
built,  black  and  white,  half-timbered  erection  of  some 
centuries  back,  had  been  pulled  down  a  few  years 
before,  and  Sir  James  built  the  present  house  close  to 
the  old  site.  It  was  here  that  he  was  brought  back 
in  a  dying  state  on  June  13th,  1895,  about  10  A.M., 
after  riding  out  of  the  grounds  only  ten  minutes 
before,  full  of  life  and  energy.  No  one  witnessed 
what  occurred ;  he  was  a  splendid  horseman,  but 
there  was  evidence  that  the  horse,  always  inclined  to 
be  restive,  had  taken  fright  on  passing  a  cottager's 
gate  and  tried  to  turn  back,  and  that,  as  its  master's 
whip  was  still  firmly  grasped  in  his  hand,  there  had 
been  a  struggle. 

He  was  engaged  to  assist  the  next  day  at  the 
annual  meeting  of  the  Conservative  and  Unionist 
Association  at  Stratford-on-Avon.  The  Marquis  of 
Hertford,  who  presided,  when  announcing  the 
catastrophe  in  very  feeling  terms,  spoke  of  the  ex- 
cellent work  that  Sir  James  Johnstone  had  done  for 

*  Resolution.     Political  Department,  No.  87,  1872. 


INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR.  xxi 

the  Unionist  cause  in  Warwickshire.  At  Wythall 
Church  (of  which  he  was  warden)  the  Vicar  alluded, 
the  following  Sunday,  to  "  the  striking  example  he 
had  set  of  a  devout  and  attentive  worshipper." 

A  retired  official  who  had  been  acquainted  with 
him  in  India  for  over  thirty  years,  wrote  on  the  same 
occasion  to  Captain  Charles  Johnstone,  R.N. :  "  Your 
brother  was  a  type  of  character  not  at  all  common, 
high-principled,  fearless,  just,  with  an  overwhelm- 
ing sense  of  duty,  and  restless  spirit  of  adven- 
ture. It  is  by  characters  of  his  type,  that  our  great 
empire  has  been  created,  and  it  is  only  if  such  types 
continue  that  we  may  look  forward  and  hope  that  it 
will  be  maintained  and  extended." 

Although  the  family  from  which  Sir  James  John- 
stone  sprang  is  of  Scottish  origin,  his  own  branch  of 
it  had  lived  in  Worcestershire  and  Warwickshire 
for  nearly  a  century  and  a  half.  "  It  has  taken  a 
prominent  part  in  the  social  and  public  life  of  the 
Midlands,  and  has  produced  several  eminent  phy- 
sicians." He  was  the  eleventh  in  direct  male  descent 
from  William  Johnstone  of  Graitney,  who  received 
a  charter  of  the  barony  of  Newbie  for  "  distinguished 
services"  to  the  Scottish  crown  in  1541.  A  remnant 
of  the  old  Scottish  estates'  was  inherited  by  his  great- 
grandfather, Dr.  James  Johnstone,  who  died  at 
Worcester  in  1802,  and  who,  being  the  fourth  son 
of  his  parents,  had  left  Annandale  at  the  age  of 
twenty-one  to  settle  in  Worcestershire  as  a  physician, 
but  who  always  kept  up  his  relations  with  Scotland, 
and  meant  to  return  there  in  his  old  age.  His 
anxiety  to  secure  this  estate — Galabank — in  the  male 

*  Birmingham  Daily  Post,  June  15,  1895. 


xxii  INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR. 

line,  really  defeated  his  purpose ;  for  he  bequeathed 
it  to  his  then  unmarried  younger  son,  the  late 
Dr.  John  Johnstone,  F.R.S.,  whose  daughter  now 
possesses  it,  to  the  exclusion  of  his  elder  sons  who 
seemed  likely  to  leave  nothing  but  daughters.  One 
of  these  elder  sons  was  Sir  James's  grandfather,  the 
late  Dr.  Edward  Johnstone  of  Edgbaston  Hall,  who 
had  married  the  heiress  of  Fulford,  but  was  left  a 
widower  in  1800.  Dr.  Edward  Johnstone  was  re- 
married in  1802  to  Miss  Pearson  of  Tettenhall,  and 
of  their  two  sons,  the  younger,  James,  born  in  1806, 
practised  for  many  years  as  a  physician,  and  was 
President  of  the  British  Medical  Association  when 
it  met  in  Birmingham  in  1856.  His  eldest  son,  the 
subject  of  this  notice,  was  born  in  a  house  now 
pulled  down  in  the  Old  Square,  Birmingham,  on 
February  9th,  1841.  Brought  up  in  the  midst  of 
the  large  family  of  brothers  and  sisters,  whose  child- 
hood was  passed  between  their  home  in  the  Old 
Square  and  their  grandfather's  residence  at  Edg- 
baston Hall,  where  they  spent  the  summer  and 
autumn :  he  used  also  to  look  back  with  particular 
pleasure  on  his  visits  to  his  maternal  grandfather's 
country  house,  where  he  first  mounted  a  pony.  His 
mother  was  his  instructor,,  except  occasional  lessons 
from  the  Rev.  T.  Price,  till  at  the  age  of  nine  he 
entered  King  Edward's  Classical  School,  of  which 
his  father  was  a  governor.  The  head  master  at  that 
time  (1850),  was  the  Eev.  (now  Archdeacon) 
E.  H.  Gifford,  D.D.,  and  in  the  school  list  for  1852, 
Johnstone  senior  is  placed  next  in  the  same  class  to 
Mackenzie  (now  Sir  Alex.),  the  present  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Bengal. 


INTKODUCTOKY  MEMOIR  XXlll 

In  1855,  young  James  Johnstone  went  to  a 
military  college  in  Paris,  which  was  swept  away 
before  1870,  with  a  great  part  of  the  older  portion 
of  the  city.  After  a  year  and  a  half  in  Paris  he 
was  transferred  to  the  Royal  Naval  and  Military 
Academy,  Grosport,  and  a  few  months  later  qualified 
for  one  of  the  last  cadetships  given  under  the  old 
East  India  Company.  Without  delay  he  proceeded 
to  India,  which  was  at  that  period  distracted  by  the 
Indian  Mutiny,  so  that  his  regiment  the  68th  Bengal 
Native  Infantry,  consisted  only  of  officers  attached 
to  different  European  regiments,  or  acting  in  a  civil 
capacity.  With  the  73rd  (Queen's  Eegiment)  he 
marched  through  the  country,  and  was  actively 
employed  in  the  suppression  of  the  insurgents,  after 
which  he  was  stationed  for  some  time  in  Assam 
where  he  also  saw  active  service.  There,  in  1862, 
he  met  with  the  accident  he  alludes  to  on  pp.  3  and  20. 
It  came  in  the  course  of  his  duty,  as  the  population 
of  a  village  which  had  been  disarmed  had  sent  to 
the  nearest  military  post  to  ask  for  assistance  against 
a  tiger  (panther),  causing  destruction  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood; but  he  was  very  much  hurt,  and  the 
weakening  effects  of  this  accident,  seem  to  have 
predisposed  him  to  attacks  of  the  malaria  fever  of 
the  district,  from  which  he  frequently  suffered  after- 
wards. 

His  next  post  was  at  Keonjhur,  where  there  had 
been  an  outbreak  against  the  Rajah  by  some  of  the 
hill-tribes  and  the  chief  insurgent  had  been  executed. 
Lieutenant  Johnstone  was  appointed  special  assistant 
to  the  superintendent  of  the  Tributary  Mehals  at 
Cuttack,  in  whose  official  district  Keonjhur  lies.  The 


xxiv  INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR. 

Superintendent  wrote  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor 
(Sir  William  Grey)  of  Bengal  in  1869  :  "Captain 
Johnstone  has  acquired  their  full  confidence,  and 
hopes  very  shortly  to  be  able  to  dispense  with  the 
greater  part  of  the  Special  Police  Force  posted  at 
Keonjhur.  He  appears  to  take  very  great  interest 
in  his  work,  and  is  sanguine  of  success."  The  same 
official  when  enclosing  Captain  Johnstone's  first 
report,  wrote  :  "  It  contains  much  interesting  matter 
regarding  the  people,  and  shows  that  he  has  taken 
great  pains  in  bringing  them  into  the  present 
peaceable  and  apparently  loyal  condition,"  and  a 
little  further  on,  when  describing  an  interview  he  had 
with  the  Rajah  :  "  From  the  manner  in  which  he 
spoke  of  Captain  Johnstone,  I  was  exceedingly  glad 
to  find  that  the  most  good  feeling  exists  between 
them."  He  also  adds,  apropos  of  a  recommendation 
that  the  Government  should  pay  half  the  expense  of 
the  special  commission  instead  of  charging  it  all  on 
the  native  state  :  "  Nearly  one  half  of  Captain  John- 
stone's  time  has  been  occupied  in  Khedda  (catching 
wild  elephants)  operations,  which  have  been  suc- 
cessful and  profitable  to  Government,  and  totally 
unconnected  with  that  officer's  duty  in  Keonjhur."* 

A  year  later  the  superintendent  (T.  E.  Ravenshaw, 
Esq.)  reports :  "  Captain  Johnstone,  with  his  usual 
liberality  and  tact,  has  clothed  two  thousand  naked 
savages,  and  has  succeeded  in  inducing  them  to  wear 
the  garments ; "  and  again,  "  Captain  Johnstone's 
success  in  establishing  schools  has  been  most  marked, 
and  there  are  now  nine  hundred  children  receiving 
a  rudimentary  education.  .  .  .  Captain  Johnstone 

*  Printed  official  reports. 


INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR.  XXV 

has  very  correctly  estimated  the  political  importance 
of  education  and  enlightenment  among  the  hill 
people,  and  it  is  evident  that  he  has  worked  most 
judiciously  and  successfully  in  this  direction."  And 
again  :  "  In  the  matter  of  improvement  of  breed  of 
cattle,  Captain  Johnstone  has,  at  his  own  expense, 
formed  a  valuable  herd  of  sixty  cows  and  several 
young  bulls  ready  to  extend  the  experiment.  .  .  . 
Captain  Johnstone's  experiments  on  rice  and  flax 
cultivation  have  been  very  successful "  (two  years 
later  this  is  attributed  to  his  having  superintended 
them  himself).  The  official  report  sums  up,  "  Of 
Captain  Johnstone  I  cannot  speak  too  highly ;  his 
management  has  been  efficient,  and  he  has  exercised 
careful  and  constant  supervision  over  the  Rajah  and 
his  estate,  in  a  manner  which  has  resulted  in  material 
improvement  to  both." 

Subsequently,  when  Captain  Johnstone  was  on 
leave  in  England,  the  Keonjhur  despatches  show 
that  he  sent  directions  that  the  increase  of  his  herd 
of  cattle  should  be  distributed  gratis  among  the 
natives.  They  were  at  first  afraid  to  accept  them, 
hardly  believing  in  the  gift. 

"  Keonjhur,"  says  the  Government  report  of  India 
for  1870-1,  "continues  under  the  able  adminis- 
tration of  Captain  Johnstone,  who,  it  will  be  remem- 
bered, was  mainly  instrumental  in  restoring  the 
country  to  quiet  three  years  ago." 

Captain  Johnstone  was  too  good  a  classic  not  to 
remember  the  Roman  method  of  conquering  and 
subduing  a  province ;  and  as  far  as  funds  would 
permit,  he  opened  out  roads  and  cleared  away  jungle. 
But  he  suffered  again  from  the  malaria  so  prevalent 


XX vi  INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR. 

in  the  forest  districts  of  India,  and  took  three  months' 
furlough  in  1871,  which  meant  just  one  month  in 
England.  Although  he  had  lost  his  father  in 
May,  1860,  and  his  absence  from  home  that  year 
gave  him  some  extra  legal  expense,  he  would  not 
quit  his  work  till  he  could  leave  it  in  a  satisfactory 
state  ;  yet  the  Lieut.-Governor  of  Bengal  (Sir  George 
Campbell)  twice  referred  to  this  furlough  as  being 
t:  mot  unfortunate,"  particularly  as  it  had  to  be 
repeated  within  a  few  months.  The  superintendent 
wrote  from  Cuttack  in  his  yearly  report  to  the  Lieut.- 
Governor:  "  Captain  Johnstone's  serious  and  alarm- 
ing illness  necessitated  his  taking  sick  leave  to 
England  in  August,  1871.  He  had  only  a  short 
time  previously  returned  from  furlough,  and  with 
health  half  restored,  over-tasked  his  strength  in 
carrying  out  elephant  Khedda  work  in  the  deadly 
jungles  of  Moburdhunj." 

In  the  spring  of  1872,  Captain  Johnstone  was 
married  to  Emma  Mary  Lloyd,  with  whose  family 
his  own  had  a  hereditary  friendship  of  three  genera- 
tions. Her  father  was  at  that  time  M.P.  for 
Plymouth,  and  living  at  Moor  Hall  in  Warwick- 
shire. Their  first  child,  James,  died  of  bronchitis 
when  six  mouths  old,  and  they  returned  to  India  a 
short  time  afterwards,  at  which  point  the  experi- 
ences begin.  Their  second  child,  Richard,  was  born 
at  Samagudting,  and  is  now  a  junior  officer  in  the 
battalion  of  the  60th  King's  Own  Royal  Rifles, 
quartered  in  India.  The  third  son,  Edward,  was 
born  at  Dunsley  Manor,  and  two  younger  children 
in  Manipur. 

Manipur,  to  which  Colonel  Johnstone  was  appointed 


INTRODUCTORY  MEMOIR.  XXVll 

in  1877,  was  called  by  one  of  the  Indian  secretaries 
the  Cinderella  among  political  agencies.  "  They'll 
never,"  he  said,  ''  get  a  good  man  to  take  it." 
*'  Well,"  was  the  reply,  "  a  good  man  has  taken  it 
now."  The  loneliness,  the  surrounding  savages,  and 
the  ill-feeling  excited  by  the  Kubo  valley  (which  so 
late  as  1852  is  placed  in  Manipur,  in  maps  published 
in  Calcutta)  having  been  made  over  to  Burmah,  were 
among  the  reasons  of  its  unpopularity.  Colonel 
Johnstone's  predecessor,  Captain  Durand  (now  Sir 
Edward)  draws  a  very  glaring  picture  in  his  official 
report  for  1877,  of  the  Maharajah's  misgovernment ; 
the  wretched  condition  of  the  people,  and  the  most 
unpleasant  position  of  the  Political  Agent,  whom  he 
described  as  "  in  fact  a  British  officer  under  Manipur 
surveillance.  .  .  .  He  is  surrounded  by  spies.  .  .  . 
If  the  Maharajah  is  not  pleased  with  the  Political 
Agent  he  cannot  get  anything — he  is  ostracised. 
From  bad  coarse  black  atta,  which  the  Maharajah 
sells  him  as  a  favour,  to  the  dhoby  who  washes  his 
clothes,  and  the  Nagas  who  work  in  his  garden,  he 
cannot  purchase  anything."  Yet,  well  knowing  all 
this,  Colonel  Johnstone  readily  accepted  the  post, 
confident  that  with  his  great  knowledge  of  Eastern 
languages,  and  of  Eastern  customs  and  modes  of 
thought,  he  should  be  able  to  bring  about  a  better 
state  of*  things,  both  as  regarded  the  oppressed 
inhabitants  and  the  permanent  influence  of  the  repre- 
sentative of  the  British  Government.  Whether  this 
confidence  was  justified,  the  following  pages  will 
show. 

EDITOR. 


MY  EXPEEIENCES 


MANIPUR  AND  THE   NAGA  HILLS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Arrival  in  India — Hospitable  friends — The  Lieutenant-Governor — Journey 
to  the  Naga  Hills — Nigriting — Golaghat— A  Panther  reminiscence — 
Hot  springs — A  village  dance — Dimapur — My  new  abode. 

I  LEFT  England  with  my  wife  on  November  13th, 
1873,  and  after  an  uneventful  voyage,  reached 
Bombay,  December  9th.  We  proceeded  at  once  to 
Calcutta,  where  some  of  my  old  servants  joined  me, 
including  two  bearers,  Seewa  and  Keptie,  wild 
Bhooyas  from  the  Cuttack  Tributary  Mehals,  whom 
I  had  trained,  and  who  had  been  with  me  for  years 
in  all  my  wanderings,  in  that  wild  territory. 
Thanks  to  the  kindness  of  mv  friends  the  Bernards 

»/ 

(now  Sir  C.  and  Lady  Bernard),  we  spent  only  a  day 
at  an  hotel,  and  remained  under  their  hospitable  roof 
till  we  left  Calcutta. 

My  old  appointment  in  Keonjhur  had  been 
abolished,  and  I  had  to  wait  till  another  was  open  to 
me.  I  had  several  interviews  on  the  subject  with 
the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal,  Sir  Or.  Campbell. 

B 


2  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

Finally  it  was  decided  that  I  should  go  to  Assam 
(then  about  to  be  made  into  a  Chief  Commissioner- 
sliip)  and  act  as  Political  Agent  of  the  Naga  Hills, 
while  the  permanent  official — Captain  Butler — was 
away  in  the  Interior,  and  subsequently  on  leave.  I 
knew  a  large  part  of  the  district  well,  as  one  of  the 
most  malarious  in  India,  and  when  asked  if  I  would 
take  the  appointment,  said,  "  Yes,  I  have  no  objection, 
but  just  hint  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor  that  unless 
he  wants  to  kill  me  off,  it  may  be  better  policy  to 
send  me  elsewhere,  as  the  Medical  Board  in  London 
said,  I  must  not  go  to  a  malarious  district,  after  the 
experience  I  have  had  of  it  in  Keonjhur."  The 
Secretary  conveyed  my  hint,  and  when  I  next  saw 
him,  said,  "  The  Lieutenant-Governor  says,  that  is 
all  stuff  and  nonsense."  Later  on  Sir  G.  Campbell 
asked  if  my  wife  would  go  with  me.  1*  quietly 
replied  that  she  would  go  anywhere  with  me. 

Finally,  on  December  30th,  we  left  Calcutta,  and 
after  a  night  in  the  train,  embarked  in  one  of  the 
I.  G.  S.  N.  Co.'s  steamers  at  Goalundo,  for  Nigriting 
on  the  Burrhampooter,  where  we  had  to  land  for  the 
Naga  Hills.  The  steamers  of  those  days,  were  not 
like  the  well-appointed  mail  boats  now  in  use.  The 
voj'age  was  long,  the  steamers  uncomfortable,  and 
the  company  on  board  anything  but  desirable.  All 
the  same,  the  days  passed  pleasantly,  while  we  slowly 
wended  our  way  up  the  mighty  river,  amid  lovely 
and  interesting  scenery  all  new  to  my  wife,  to  whom 
I  pointed  out  the  different  historic  spots  as  they 
came  in  view. 

We  halted  at  Gowhatty  for  the  night,  and  early 
in  the  morning  I  swam  across  the  river  for  the 


NIGRITING.  3 

second  time  in  my  life,  a  distance  of  about  three 
miles,  as  the  current  carried  me  in  a  slanting 
direction. 

At  last  we  reached  Nigriting,  and  were  landed  on 
a  dry  sandbank  five  or  six  miles  from  the  celebrated 
tea  gardens  of  that  name,  and  the  nearest  habitations. 
Fortunately,  I  had  brought  a  tent  and  all  things 
needful  for  a  march;  and  my  servants,  well  ac- 
customed to  camp  life,  soon  pitched  it  and  made 
us  comfortable,  and  my  wife  was  charmed  with  her 
first  experience.  "We  had  a  message  of  welcome 
from  Mr.  Boyle,  of  Nigriting  Factory,  and  the  next 
day  went  to  his  house  in  canoes,  whence  we  set  out 
for  Golaghat. 

It  was  to  Nigriting  that  I  was  carried  for  change 
of  air  nearly  twelve  years  before,  when,  in  April, 
1862,  I  was  desperately  wounded  in  an  encounter 
with  a  large  panther  near  Golaghat,  where  I  had 
been  stationed.  I  then  lived  for  a  week  or  so  in  a 
grass  hut  on  a  high  bank,  and  the  fresh  air  made 
my  obstinate  wounds  begin  to  heal.  Thus  it  hap- 
pened that  all  the  people  knew  me  well,  and  I  was 
long  remembered  by  the  name  of  "  Baghe  Khooah  " 
literally  the  "  tiger  eaten,"  a  name  which  I  found 
was  still  familiar  to  every  one.  Loading  our  things 
on  elephants,  and  having  a  pony  for  my  wife,  and  a 
dandy  (hill  litter)  in  case  she  grew  tired,  we  set  off 
for  Golaghat,  and  had  a  picnic  luncheon  on  the  way. 
How  delightful  are  our  first  experiences  of  marching 
in  India,  even  when  we  have,  as  in  this  case,  to  put 
up  with  some  discomfort ;  the  cool,  crisp  air  in  the 
morning ;  the  good  appetite  that  a  ten-mile  walk  or 
ride  gives ;  the  feeling  that  breakfast  has  been 

B  2 


4  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

earned,  and  finally  breakfast  itself;  and  such  a  good 
one.  Where  indeed  but  in  India  could  we  have  a 
first-rate  meal  of  thi*ee  or  four  courses,  and  every 
dish  hot,  with  no  better  appliances  in  the  shape  of  a 
fireplace,  than  two  or  three  clods  of  earth?  Often 
have  I  had  a  dinner  fit  for  a  king,  when  heavy  rain 
had  been  falling  for  hours,  and  there  was  no  shelter 
for  my  men,  but  a  tree  with  a  sheet  thrown  over  a 
branch. 

We  breakfasted  at  a  place  called  "  Char  Allee  "  and 
the  march  being  long  (nearly  twenty  miles),  the 
sun  was  low  long  before  reaching  G-olaghat.  As  we 
passed  some  road  coolies,  I  began  a  conversation 
with  the  old  Tekla  (overseer)  in  charge,  and  asked 
him  if  he  could  get  me  a  few  oranges.  He  said, 
"  Oh  no,  they  are  all  over."  He  then  asked  me  how 
I  came  to  speak  Assamese  so  well.  I  said,  "I  have 
been  in  Assam  before."  He  said,  "  Oh  yes,  there 
have  been  many  sahibs  in  my  time,"  and  he  named 
several ;  "  and  then  long  ago  there  was  a  '  Baghe 
Khooah '  sahib,  I  wonder  where  he  is  now  ?  "  I 
looked  at  him  and  said,  "  Ami  Baghe  Khooah  "  (I 
am  the  Baghe  Khooah).  The  old  man  gazed  equally 
hard  at  me  for  a  moment  and  then  ran  in  front  of 
me  and  made  a  most  profound  obeisance.  Having 
done  this,  he  smilingly  said,  *'  I  think  I  can  find  you 
some  oranges  after  all,"  and  at  once  ran  off,  and 
brought  me  some  for  which  he  refused  to  take 
anything.  The  good  old  man  walked  about  a  mile 
farther  before  he  wished  me  good-bye ;  and  my  wife 
and  I  went  on,  greatly  pleased  to  find  that  I  was  so 
well  remembered. 

We  did  not  get  to  Golaghat  till  long  after  dark, 


EASTERN  COMPLIMENTS.  5 

and  pitched  our  tent  on  the  site  of  the  lines  of  my 
old  detachment,  which  I  had  commanded  twelve 
years  before.  What  a  change !  Trees  that  I  had 
remembered  as  small,  had  grown  large,  and  some 
that  were  planted  since  I  left,  already  a  fair  size. 

In  the  morning  we  received  a  perfect  ovation. 
People  who  had  known  me  before,  crowded  to  see 
me  and  pay  their  respects,  many  of  them  bringing 
their  children  born  since  I  had  left.  All  this  was 
pleasant  enough  and  greatly  delighted  my  wife,  but 
we  had  to  proceed  on  our  way,  and  it  is  always 
difficult  to  get  one's  followers  to  move  from  a 
civilised  place,  where  there  is  a  bazaar,  into  the 
jungle,  and  henceforth  our  road  lay  through  jungle, 
the  Nambor  forest  beginning  about  five  miles  from 
Golaghat.  At  last  coolies  to  carry  my  wife  arrived, 
and  I  sent  her  on  in  her  "dandy"  with  her  ayah, 
charging  the  bearers  to  wait  for  me  at  a  village  I 
well  knew,  called  *'  Sipahee  Hoikeeah."  The  men 
replied,  "  Hoi  Deota "  (Yes,  deity  *)  and  started. 
The  elephants  were  a  great  difficulty,  and  it  was 
some  hours  before  I  could  get  off,  and  even  then 
some  had  not  arrived.  However,  off  I  started,  and 
hurried  on  to  "  Sipahee  Hoikeeah  "  so  as  not  to  keep 
my  wife  waiting,  but  when  I  reached  the  spot,  I 
found  to  my  amazement  that  the  village  had  ceased 
to  exist,  having,  as  I  subsequently  learned,  been 
abandoned  for  fear  of  the  Nagas.  I  hurried  on  in 
much  anxiety,  as  my  wife  did  not  speak  Hindoostani, 
and  neither  ayah  nor  bearers  spoke  English.  At 

*  One  of  the  witnesses  at  the  trial  of  the  Regent  and  Senaputty  of 
Manipur,  in  1891,  stated  that  Mr.  Quinton  was  partly  induced  to  enter 
the  palace  from  which  he  never  emerged  alive,  by  the  Manipuris  saying, 
"  Are  you  not  our  deity?" — ED. 


6  MY   EXPEKIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

last  I  caught  them  up  at  the  Nambor  hot  springs, 
called  by  natives  the  "  Noonpoong  "  where  we  were 
to  halt. 

The  Noonpoong  is  situated  in  a  lovely  spot  amidst 
fine  forest.  The  hot  water  springs  out  of  the  ground, 
at  a  temperature  of  112  degrees  and  fills  a  small 
pool.  It  is  similar  in  taste  to  the  waters  of  Aix-la- 
Chapelle,  and  is  highly  efficacious  in  skin  diseases, 
being  resorted  to  even  for  the  cure  of  severe  leech 
bites,  which  are  easily  obtained  from  the  land  leech 
infesting  all  the  forests  of  Assam.  Fortunately  some 
of  our  cooking  things,  with  chairs  and  a  table 
arrived,  also  a  mattress,  but  no  bed  and  no  tent. 
We  waited  till  9  P.M.,  and  finding  that  no  more 
elephants  came  up,  I  made  up  a  bed  for  my  wife  on 
the  ground  under  a  table,  to  shelter  her  from  the 
dew,  but  while  sitting  by  the  camp  fire  for  a  last 
warm,  we  heard  the  noise  of  an  elephant,  and  saw 
one  emerging  from  the  forest.  Fortunately  he 
carried  the  tent  which  was  quickly  pitched,  and  we 
passed  a  comfortable  night. 

The  hot  springs  are  not  the  only  attraction  of  the 
neighbourhood,  as  about  two  miles  off  in  the  forest, 
there  is  a  very  pretty  waterfall,  not  high,  but  the 
volume  of  water  is  considerable,  and  it  comes  down 
with  a  thundering  sound  heard  for  some  distance. 
The  natives  call  it  the  "  phutta  hil,"  literally  "rent 
rock."  The  Nambor  forest  is  noted  for  its  Nahor  or 
Nagessur  trees  (Mesua  Ferma)  a  handsome  tree,  the 
heart  of  which  is  a  fine  red  wood,  very  hard  and 
very  heavy,  and  quite  impervious  to  the  attacks  of 
white  ants.  Europeans  call  it  the  iron  wood  of 
Assam.  It  is  very  plentiful  in  parts  of  the  forest 


6 


LOSS  OF  POPULATION.  7 

between    the   Noonpoong   and   G-olaghat,    and   also 
grows  in  the  lowlands  of  Manipur. 

The  next  morning  we  set  out  for  Borpathar,  a 
village  with  a  fine  sheet  of  cultivation  on  the  banks 
of  the  Dunseree,  and  took  up  our  quarters  in  the 
old  blockhouse,  which  had  been  converted  into  a 
comfortable  rest  house.  Here  again  we  received  a 
perfect  ovation,  the  people,  headed  by  my  old  friend 
Hova  Earn,  now  promoted  to  a  Mouzadar,  coming 
in  a  body,  with  fruit  and  eggs,  etc.,  to  pay  their 
respects.  The  population  had  sadly  diminished 
since  my  early  days,  the  people  having  in  many 
cases  fled  the  country  for  fear  of  Naga  raids. 

The  march  having  been  a  short  one,  all  our 
baggage  had  time  to  come  up.  In  the  evening  the 
girls  of  the  village  entertained  us  with  one  of  their 
national  dances,  a  very  pretty  and  interesting  sight. 
After  a  good  night's  rest  we  again  started,  our 
march  lying  through  the  noble  forest,  where  but- 
tressed trees  formed  an  arch  over  the  road,  showing 
plainly  that  Gothic  architecture  was  an  adaptation 
from  nature.  I  had  never  marched  along  the  road 
since  it  was  cleared;  but  I  was  there  in  1862,  in 
pursuit  of  some  Naga  raiders,  when  it  would  have 
been  impassable,  but  for  elephant  and  rhinoceros 
tracks.  Even  then  I  was  struck  by  its  great  beauty, 
and  now  it  was  a  fairly  good  cold  weather  track. 

We  halted  at  Deo  Panee,  then  at  Hurreo  Jan,  and 
Nowkatta,  and  on  the  fourth  day  reached  Dimapur, 
where  we  found  a  comfortable  rest  house,  on  the 
banks  of  a  fine  tank  about  two  hundred  yards  square. 
This,  with  many  others  near  it,  spoke  of  days  of 
civilisation  that  had  long  since  passed  away,  before 


8  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

the  Naga  drove  the  Cacharee  from  the  hills  he  now 
inhabits,  and  from  the  rich  valley  of  the  Dunseree. 
Near  Dimapur  we  passed  a  Meekir  hut  built  on 
posts  ten  or  twelve  feet  high,  and  with  a  notched 
log  resting  against  it,  at  an  angle  of  about  seventy 
degrees  by  way  of  a  staircase,  up  which  a  dog  ran 
like  a  squirrel  at  our  approach.  The  Meekirs  occupy 
some  low  hill  ranges  between  the  Naga  hills  and 
.the  Burrhampooter. 

The  country  round  Dimapur  is  exceedingly  rich, 
and  everywhere  bears  the  marks  of  having  been 
thickly  populated.  It  is  well  supplied  with  artificial 
square  tanks,  some  much  larger  than  the  one  already 
referred  to,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river 
we  crossed  to  reach  our  halting  place,  are  the 
remains  of  an  old  fortified  city.  Mounds  containing 
broken  pottery  made  with  the  wheel,  abound,  though 
the  neighbouring  tribes  have  forgotten  its  use.  At 
Dimapur,  in  those  days,  there  were  three  or  four 
Government  elephants  and  a  few  shops  kept  by 
"  Khyahs,"  an  enterprising  race  of  merchants  from 
Western  India. 

The  ruined  city  is  worth  describing.  It  was 
surrounded  originally  by  solid  brick  walls  twelve 
feet  in  height  and  six  in  thickness,  the  bricks 
admirably  made  and  burned.  The  walls  enclosed 
a  space  seven  hundred  yards  square  ;  it  was  entered 
by  a  Gothic  archway,  and  not  far  off  had  a  gap  in 
the  wall,  said  to  have  been  made  for  cattle  to  enter 
by.  Inside  were  tanks,  some  lined  with  brick  walls, 
and  with  brick  steps  leading  to  the  water.  Though 
I  carefully  explored  the  interior,  I  never  saw  any 
other  traces  of  brickwork,  except  perhaps  a  plat- 


ANCIENT  BTJINS.  9 

form ;  but  I  found  one  or  two  sacrificial  stones,  for 
offerings  of  flowers,  water  and  oil.  One  corner  of 
the  surrounding  wall  had  been  cut  away  by  the 
river.  The  enclosure  is  covered  with  forest.  Near 
the  gateway  are  some  huge  monoliths,  one  eighteen 
feet  in  height.  All  are  covered  with  sculpture,  and 
some  have  deep  grooves  cut  in  the  top,  as  if  to 
receive  beams.  It  is  difficult  to  conjecture  what  they 
were  brought  there  for,  and  how  they  were  trans- 
ported, as  the  nearest  rocks  from  which  they  could 
have  been  cut,  are  at  least  ten  miles  away.  If  the 
Assam-Bengal  Railway  passes  near  Dimapur  as  is,  I 
believe,  arranged,  this  interesting  old  city  wall  will 
probably  be  used  as  a  quarry  for  railway  purposes, 
and  soon  none  of  it  will  remain.  Alas,  for  Van- 
dalism ! 

History  tells  us  little  about  the  origin  of  Dimapur, 
but  probably  it  was  once  a  centre  of  Cacharee  civili- 
sation, and  as  the  Angami  Nagas  advanced,  the 
city  wall  was  built,  so  as  to  afford  a  place  of  refuge 
against  sudden  raids.  It  is  a  strange  sight  to  see 
the  relics  of  a  forgotten  civilisation,  in  the  midst  of  a 
pathless  forest. 

On  our  march  up,  we  frequently  came  upon  the 
windings  of  the  river  Dunseree.  At  Nowkatta  it 
runs  parallel  for  a  time  with  the  road,  and  we  took 
our  evening  walk  on  its  dry  sandbanks,  finding 
many  recent  traces  of  tigers  and  wild  elephants. 
From  that  time  till  we  finally  left  the  hills,  the  roar 
of  tigers  and  the  trumpeting  of  elephants  were  such 
common  sounds,  that  we  ceased  to  pay  attention  to 
them,  and  my  wife,  though  naturally  timid,  became 
devoted  to  the  wild  solitude  of  our  life. 


10  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

At  Dimapur  we  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  fresh  milk, 
which,  of  course,  the  forest  did  not  supply.  The 
night  was  delightfully  cold,  and  the  next  morning 
crisp  and  invigorating,  and  we  set  off  at  an  early 
hour,  for  our  last  march  into  Samagudting. 

For  the  first  eight  miles  our  road  was  through  a 
level  forest  country,  with  the  exception  of  a  piece  of 
low-lying  grass  land,  and  at  a  place  called  Nichu 
Guard  the  ascent  of  the  hill  commenced.  This 
entrance  of  the  gorge  through  which  the  Diphoo 
Panee  river  enters  the  low  lands  is  very  beautiful, 
the  stream  rushing  out  from  the  hills  over  a  pebbly 
bottom,  and  it  was  a  favourite  encamping  ground  for 
us  in  our  later  marches.  Now,  we  had  not  time  to 
halt,  so  hurried  on.  The  road  up  the  hill  was  in 
fair  condition  for  men  and  elephants,  but  did  not 
admit  of  wheeled  traffic,  had  there  been  any 
carts  to  use.  We  accomplished  the  ascent,  a  dis- 
tance of  four  miles,  in  about  two  hours,  obtaining 
several  lovely  views  of  the  boundless  forest,  on 
our  way. 

The  vegetation  on  the  hill  itself  had  been  much 
injured  by  the  abominable  practice  hillmen  have,  of 
clearing  a  fresh  space  every  two  or  three  years,  and 
deserting  it  for  another,  when  the  soil  has  been 
exhausted.  This  never  gives  it  time  to  recover.  At 
last  we  reached  the  summit,  and  took  possession  of 
the  Political  Agent's  house,  a  large  bungalow,  built 
of  grass  and  bamboo,  the  roof  being  supported  by 
wooden  posts,  on  the  highest  point  of  the  hill.  A 
glance  showed  me  that  the  posts  were  nearly  eaten 
through  by  white  ants,  and  that  the  first  high  wind 
would  level  it  with  the  ground.  It  had  been  built 


FRIENDLY  NAGAS.  11 

by  a  man  who  never  intended  to  stay,  and  who  only 
wanted  it  to  last  his  time. 

Later  in  the  day,  I  took  over  the  charge  from 
Mr.  Coombs,  who  was  acting  till  my  arrival,  and 
thus  became,  for  the  time,  chief  of  the  district.  My 
staff  consisted  of  Mr.  Needham,  Assistant  Political 
Agent,  and  Mr.  Cooper,  in  medical  charge,  the  usual 
office  establishment,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  military 
police.  Most  of  these,  together  with  Captain  Butler, 
for  whom  I  was  acting,  were  away  in  the  Interior 
with  a  survey  party.  Mr.  Coombs  left  in  a  day  or 
two,  and  I  then  occupied  his  bungalow  lower  down 
the  hill,  and  in  a  more  exposed  position,  so  as  to 
allow  of  the  larger  horise  being  rebuilt.  Besides  the 
Government  establishment,  we  had  a  fair-sized  Naga 
village  on  the  hill,  and  just  below  the  Political 
Agent's  house.  These  people  had  long  been  friendly 
to  us,  and  were  willing,  for  a  large  recompense,  to  do 
all  sorts  of  odd  jobs,  being  entirely  free  from  the 
caste  prejudices  of  our  Hindoo  and  degenerate 
Mussulman  fellow-subjects. 


12  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Samagudting — Unhealthy  quarters — A  callous  widower — Want  of  water — 
Inhabitants  of  the  Naga  Hills — Captain  Butler — Other  officials — Our 
life  in  the  wilds — A  tiger  carries  off  the  postman — An  Indian  forest — 
Encouragement. 

MY  first  impressions  of  Samagudting,  were  anything 
but  favourable.  It  was  eminently  a  "  make-shift 
place."  It  had  been  occupied  by  us  as  a  small  out- 
post, from  time  to  time,  between  1846  and  1851,  but 
it  was  never  fit  for  a  permanent  post  of  more  than 
twenty-five  men,  as  the  water  supply  was  bad,  there 
being  no  springs,  and  only  a  few  water  holes  which 
were  entirely  dependent  on  the  uncertain  rainfall.  A 
small  tank  had  been  constructed,  but  it  was  500  feet 
below  the  summit,  so  that  water  was  sold  at  an 
almost  prohibitive  rate.  All  articles  of  food  were 
scarce,  dear  and  bad,  wood  was  enormously  dear,  and 
to  crown  all,  the  place  was  unhealthy  and  constantly 
enveloped  in  fog. 

Samagudting*  ought  never  to  have  been  occupied, 
and  would  not  have  been,  had  the  Government 
taken  ordinary  precautions  to  verify  the  too  roseate 
reports  of  an  officer  who  wished  to  see  it  adopted  as 
the  headquarters  of  a  new  district,  as  a  speedy  road 

*  The  Assam  Administration  Report  of  1877-8  writes  of  it  as  "  no- 
toriously unhealthy,  and  it  had  long  been  proposed  to  move  the  troops 
to  a  higher  and  less  feverish  s^ot." — ED. 


AN  UNHEALTHY  STATION.  13 

to  promotion,  and  subsequent  transfer  to  a  more 
favoured  appointment.  The  report  in  question  which, 
among  other  things,  mentioned  the  existence  of 
springs  of  water,  that  existed  only  in  imagination, 
having  once  been  accepted  by  the  authorities,  and 
a  large  expenditure  incurred,  it  became  a  very 
invidious  task  for  future  Political  Agents  to  unmask 
the  affair,  and  proclaim  the  extreme  unsuitability  of 
Samagudting  for  a  station. 

Many  other  good  and  healthy  sites  were  available, 
and  I  believe  that  our  dealings  with  the  Nagas  were 
greatly  retarded,  by  the  adoption  of  such  an  unsuit- 
able post  As  it  was,  having  made  our  road  over 
the  hill,  it  was  necessary  to  climb  an  ascent  of  over 
two  thousand  feet,  and  an  equal  descent,  before 
entering  the  really  important  portion  of  the  Angami 
Naga  country.  I  at  once  saw  that  the  right  entrance 
lay  by  the  Diphoo  Panee  Gorge,  and  I  recommended 
its  adoption.  I  began  to  make  this  road  during  the 
Naga  Hills  Campaign  of  1879-80,  and  it  has  since 
been  regularly  used. 

Having  said  all  that  there  was  to  say  against 
Samagudting,  it  is  only  fair  to  mention  its  good 
points.  First,  though  never  so  cold  in  the  winter, 
as  the  plains,  the  temperature  was  never  so  high  in 
the  hot  and  rainy  seasons  ;  and  when  the  weather 
was  fine,  it  was  very  enjoyable.  The  views  from 
the  hill  were  magnificent.  To  the  south,  the  Burrail 
range,  from  which  a  broad  and  undulating  valley 
divided  us.  To  the  west,  a  long  stretch  of  hills  and 
forests.  To  the  east,  the  valley  of  the  Duriseree, 
bordered  by  the  Rengma  and  Lotah  Naga  hills,  a 
vast  forest,  stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 


14  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  NANIPUR. 

with  here  and  there  a  large  patch  of  high  grass 
land,  one  of  which  many  miles  in  extent,  was  the 
Rengma  Putha,  a  grand  elephant  catching  ground 
in  old  times,  where  many  a  noble  elephant  became 
a  victim  to  the  untiring  energy  of  the  Bengali 
elephant  phandaits  or  noosers,  from  the  Morung.* 
To  the  north,  the  view  extended  over  a  pathless 
forest,  the  first  break  being  the  Doboka  Hills. 
Behind  these,  a  long  bank  of  mist  showed  the 
line  of  the  Burrhampooter,  while  on  clear  days  in 
the  cold  weather,  we  might  see  the  dark  line  of 
the  Bhootan  Hills,  with  the  snowy  peaks  of  the 
Himalayas  towering  above  them.f  Altogether,  it 
was  a  sight  once  seen,  never  to  be  forgotten. 

There  was  a  footpath  all  round  the  hill,  which, 
after  a  little  alteration  of  level  here  and  there,  and 
a  little  repairing,  where  landslips  had  made  it  un- 
safe, was  delightful  for  a  morning  or  evening  walk 
or  ride.  As  my  wife  was  fond  of  botany,  she  found 
a  subject  of  never-ending  interest  in  the  many  wild 
flowers,  ferns,  and  climbing  plants,  and  soon  grew 
accustomed  to  riding  along  the  edge  of  a  dizzy 
precipice. 

Our  private  establishment  consisted  of  ten  or 
twelve  servants  in  all,  including  a  girl  of  the  Kuki 
tribe,  named  Bykoout,  who  assisted  the  ayah ;  a  very 
small  establishment  for  India.  Servants  in  Assam  are 
bad  and  difficult  to  keep.  Most  of  mine  were  imported, 
but,  with  the  exception  of  my  two  faithful  Bhooyas, 
Seewa  and  Keptie,  and  a  syce  (groom),  by  name 

*  When  I  first  went  to  Assam  almost  all  elephant-catching  was  done 
by  noosing. 

t  The  country  bordering  on  the  Bhootan  Dooars  in  the  Ringpore 
district. 


KEFOEMS.  15 

Peewa,  they  were  all  soon  corrupted,  though  some 
had  been  with  me  for  years.  Seewa  once  said  to 
me,  "  The  influence  here  is  so  bad,  that  we  too  shall 
be  corrupted  if  we  stay  long."  Seewa  was  quite  a 
character.  One  day  I  got  a  letter  from  one  of  his 
relations,  asking  me  to  tell  him  that  his  wife  was 
dead.  I  remembered  her  well ;  it  was  a  love  match, 
and  she  had  run  away  with  him.  I  feared  it  would 
be  such  a  blow,  that  I  felt  quite  nervous  about 
telling  him,  and  put  it  off  till  the  evening,  when, 
with  a  faltering  voice,  I  broke  the  news  as  gently  as 
I  could.  Instead  of  the  outburst  of  grief  I  had 
looked  for,  he  quietly  asked,  "  What  did  she  die  of  ?  " 
I  said,  "  Fever."  He  replied,  "  Oh,  yes,  I  thought  it 
must  be  that.  Will  you  write  and  see  that  all  her 
property  is  made  over  to  my  brother,  otherwise 
some  of  her  people  may  steal  it  ?  " 

The  state  of  things  at  Samagudting  was  very  dis- 
couraging. I  resented  seeing  the  Government  and 
the  establishment  being  charged  famine  prices  for 
everything,  by  the  Nagas  and  Khyahs;  also  the 
general  squalor  which  prevailed,  and  which  I  felt 
need  not  exist.  It  was  the  inheritance  of  the  hand- 
to-mouth  system  in  which  everything  had  been  com- 
menced in  early  days.  However,  my  wife  set  me  an 
example  of  cheerfulness,  and  I  made  up  my  mind  to 
remedy  all  the  evils  I  could.  First,  the  supply 
system  was  attacked,  and  I  made  arrangements  with 
some  old  Khyah  friends  at  Golaghat,  to  sand  up 
large  supplies  of  rice  and  other  kinds  of  food,  and 
as  the  season  advanced,  I  encouraged  such  of  the 
military  police  as  could  be  spared  to  take  up  land  at 
Dimapur,  and  cultivate.  For  ourselves,  I  bought 


16  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

two  cows  at  Borpathar,  and  established  them  at 
Nichu  Guard,  whence  my  gardener  brought  up  the 
milk  every  day.  In  a  short  time  we  were  more 
comfortable  than  could  have  been  expected,  and 
there  was  the  additional  satisfaction  of  seeing  that 
the  arrangements  for  cheaper  food  for  the  establish- 
ment proved  successful.  Water  was  the  standing 
difficulty ;  we  had  to  depend  upon  the  caprice  of 
the  Naga  water-carriers,  and  frequently  my  wife's 
bath,  filled  ready  for  the  next  morning,  had  to  be 
emptied  in  the  evening  to  provide  water  for  cooking 
our  evening  meal !  Sometimes  I  got  clean  water  for 
drinking  from  the  Diphoo  Panee,  otherwise  what 
we  had  was  as  if  it  had  been  taken  from  a  dirty 
puddle.  The  want  of  water  prevented  our  having  a 
garden  near  our  house ;  we  had  a  few  hardy  flowers, 
including  the  shoe-flower — a  kind  of  hibiscus — roses, 
and  passion-flower.  Such  vegetable-garden  as  we 
had  was  at  Nichu  Guard,  where  the  soil  was  good, 
and  water  plentiful. 

Our  house  was  watertight,  and  that  was  the  best 
that  could  be  said  for  it.  It  was  thatched,  with 
walls  of  split  bamboos  and  strengthened  by  wooden 
posts ;  there  were  no  glass  windows,  and  the  doors 
and  shutters  were  of  split  bamboo  tied  together ;  the 
mud  floor  was  also  covered  with  thin  split  bamboos, 
and  had  to  be  swept  constantly,  as  the  dust  worked 
through.  We  had  one  sitting-room,  a  bed- room, 
bath-room,  pantry,  and  store-room,  the  latter  full  of 
rats.  Snakes  occasionally  visited  us,  and  a  day  or 
two  after  we  had  settled  in,  a  cat  rushed  in  while  we 
were  at  breakfast,  jumped  on  my  knee  and  took 
away  the  meat  from  my  plate,  and  bit  and  scratched 


SAMAGUDTING.  17 

me  when  I  tried  to  catch  her.  My  dressing-room 
was  the  shade  of  a  tree  outside,  where  I  bathed 
Anglo-Indian  camp  fashion,  substituting  a  large 
hollow  bamboo  for  the  usual  mussuk,  or  skin  of 
water. 

We  arrived  at  Samagudting  on  January  23rd, 
1874,  and  by  the  beginning  of  February  felt  quite 
old  residents ;  hill-walking  no  longer  tired  me,  and 
we  had  made  acquaintance  with  all  the  Nagas  of  the 
village,  and  of  many  others,  and  were  on  quite 
friendly  terms  with  "  Jatsole,"  the  chief  of  Sama- 
gudting, a  shrewd  far-seeing  man,  with  great  force 
of  character. 

I  have  mentioned  the  Burrail  range,  and  the 
valley  separating  us.  Besides  Samagudting  there 
were  two  other  villages  on  our  side,  Sitekima,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Diphoo  Panee  Gorge,  and  Tese- 
phima,  on  outlying  spurs  of  Samagudting.  I  say 
Samagudting,  as  it  has  become  the  common  appel- 
lation, but  correctly  speaking  it  should  be  Chumoo- 
kodima. 

On  the  side  of  the  Burrail  facing  us,  were  villages 
belonging  to  a  tribe  we  call  Kutcha  Nagas,  a  race 
inferior  in  fighting  power  to  the  Angamis,  but  not 
unlike  them  in  appearance,  though  of  inferior 
physique.  These  villages  were  formerly  inhabited 
by  Cacharees.* 

On  February  4th,  I  had  a  letter  from  Captain 
Butler,  saying  that  he  would  be  at  Kohima  in  a  day 
or  two,  and  asking  me  to  meet  him  there.  He  said 
that  three  of  the  police  would  be  a  sufficient  escort. 
I  accordingly  took  three  men,  and  started  on  the 

*  See  subsequent  sketch  of  Naga  tribes  in  Chapter  III. 

C 


18  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

6th,  marching  to  Piphima  twenty-one  miles,  and  the 
next  morning  another  twenty-one  into  Kohima,  two 
very  hard  marches.  I  was  glad  to  renew  my 
acquaintance  with  Butler,  whom  I  had  known  when 
he  first  landed  in  India  in  1861,  and  I  was  in  Fort 
William,  studying  for  my  Hindustani  examination. 
He  was  a  fine  manly  fellow,  admirably  fitted  to  con- 
duct an  expedition,  where  pluck  and  perseverance 
were  required.  Here,  I  also  met  Dr.  Brown, 
Political  Agent  of  Manipur,  and  Captain  (now 
Colonel)  Badgley  and  Lieutenant  (now  Colonel  C.B.) 
Woodthorpe,  R.E.,  of  the  survey,  also  Lieutenant 
(now  Major  V.C.)  Eidgeway,  44th  N.I.),  I  spent  a 
pleasant  evening,  discussing  various  subjects  with 
Captain  Butler,  and  early  on  the  8th  started  on  my 
return  journey. 

Captain  Butler  had  done  the  whole  forty-two 
miles  into  Samagudting  in  one  day,  and  I  determined 
to  attempt  it,  and  succeeded,  though  the  last  2000  feet 
of  ascent  to  my  house  was  rather  hard,  tired  as  I  was. 
My  wife  did  not  expect  me,  but  I  had  arranged  to 
fire  three  shots  from  my  rifle  as  a  signal,  if  I  arrived 
at  any  time  by  night;  this  I  did  about  500  feet 
below  my  house,  and  I  at  once  saw  lanterns  appear 
far  above  me,  and  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  or  twenty 
minutes,  I  was  at  my  door.  The  sound  of  firing  at 
9  P.M.  created  quite  a  sensation  among  the  weak- 
nerved  ones  on  the  hill,  but  it  was  good  practice  for 
the  sentries  to  be  kept  on  the  alert.  Ever  after, 
three  shots  from  a  rifle  or  a  revolver,  were  always 
my  signal  when  I  neared  home,  and  often  in  after 
years  were  they  heard  in  the  dead  of  night,  when  I 
was  thought  to  be  miles  away.  My  wife  used  to 


A   TIGER.  19 

say  that  it  kept  the  people  in   good  order,  never 
knowing  when  to  expect  me.     I  think  it  did. 

Life  was  never  monotonous.  I  took  long  walks, 
after  our  morning  walk  round  the  hill,  to  inspect 
roads  and  bridges — a  very  important  work.  Then 
I  attended  Cutcherry  (the  court  of  justice)  and  heard 
cases,  often  with  a  loaded  revolver  in  my  hand,  in 
case  of  any  wild  savage  attempting  to  dispute 
my  authority ;  then  I  finished  off  revenue  work,  of 
which  there  was  little,  and  went  home,  had  a  cup  of 
tea,  visited  hospitals  and  gaol,  if  I  had  not  already 
done  so ;  and  afterwards  went  for  an  evening  walk 
with  my  wife,  round  the  hill  or  through  the  village. 

Sometimes  duty  took  me  to  the  plains,  and  we  had 
a  most  delightful  march  to  the  Nambor  hot  springs, 
when  I  arranged  to  have  a  rest  house  built  at  Now- 
katta,  between  Dimapur  and  Hurreo  Jan.  We 
reached  the  last  place,  just  after  a  dreadful  catas- 
trophe had  occurred.  The  rest  house  was  raised 
on  posts,  six  feet  above  the  ground.  One  night 
when  the  man  carrying  the  dak  (post)  had  arrived 
from  Borpathar,  he  hung  up  the  letter  bag  under  the 
house  on  a  peg,  and  having  had  his  evening  meal, 
retired  to  rest  in  the  house  with  one  or  two  other 
travellers.  Suddenly  a  huge  tiger  rushed  up  the 
steps,  sprang  through  the  open  door,  and  seizing 
one  of  the  sleepers,  bounded  off  into  the  forest  with 
him.  One  of  my  police  who  was  there  snatched  up 
his  rifle,  pursued  the  tiger  and  fired,  making  him 
drop  the  man,  but  life  was  extinct,  and  when  we 
arrived,  there  was  a  huge  bloodstain  on  the  floor,  at 
least  a  yard  long.  Strange  to  say,  the  letter  bag 
was  on  one  occasion  carried  off"  by  a  tiger,  but  after- 

c  2 


20  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR, 

wards  recovered,  uninjured  save  by  tooth  marks. 
The  policeman  was  promoted  for  his  gallantry. 

The  day  after  leaving  Hurreo  Jan,  we  met  a  party 
of  Rengma  Nagas  coming  to  see  me,  with  some 
little  presents.  They  were  the  men  who  helped  to 
kill  the  panther,  that  wounded  me  in  1862,*  and 
they  brought  with  them  the  son  of  one  of  their 
number,  who  was  killed  by  the  infuriated  beast,  a 
fine  lad  of  fifteen ;  needless  to  say,  that,  I  rewarded 
these  friendly  people,  whom  I  had  not  seen  for 
twelve  years.  We  halted  a  day  or  two  at  the 
springs,  as  I  had  to  visit  Golaghat  on  business,  and 
unfortunately  missed  seeing  a  herd  of  wild  elephants 
caught,  a  sight  I  had  wished  my  wife  to  see.  She 
did  see  the  stockade,  but  the  elephants  had  been 
already  taken  out.  I  hope  farther  on  to  describe  an 
elephant  drive. 

I  do  not  know  a  more  agreeable  place  to  halt  at 
than  the  hot  springs  in  former  days.  In  cold 
weather  before  the  mosquitoes  had  arrived  it  was 
perfect  rest.  A  little  opening  in  the  tall  dark  forest, 
in  the  centre  some  scrub  jungle,  including  fragrant 
wild  lemons  and  citrons,  with  the  pool  in  the  midst ; 
a  babbling  stream  flowed  all  round  the  opening,  on 
the  other  side  of  which  was  a  high  bank.  The 

*  Sir  James  (then  Lieut.)  Johnstone  headed  a  party  to  clear  an 
Assamese  village  from  a  panther  that  had  killed  several  natives  and  was 
terrifying  the  district.  It  retreated  into  a  house  which  he  ordered  to  be 
pulled  down,  and  as  his  men  were  thus  engaged  it  sprang  from  a  window 
on  to  his  shoulder.  With  his  other  arm — the  left — he  fired  at  it  behind 
his  back  and  wounded  it  sufficiently  to  make  it  loose  its  hold,  and  rush 
off  into  the  jungle,  where  it  was  killed  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon.  His 
arm  was  terribly  injured,  and  he  always  considered  that  he  owed  complete 
recovery  of  the  use  of  it  to  the  kindness  and  skill  of  an  English  medical 
friend  who  came  from  a  great  distance  to  attend  him.  Every  one  else 
who  was  wounded  by  the  same  panther  died. — ED. 


VISITOKS.  2L 

bathing  was  delightful,  and  could  be  made  quite 
private  for  ladies,  by  means  of  a  cloth  enclosure, 
well  known  to  the  Assamese  by  the  name  of  "  Ar 
Kapor."  Then  the  occasional  weird  cry  of  the  hoo- 
cook  ape,  and  the  gambols  of  numerous  monkeys  in 
the  tall  trees  on  the  high  bank,  gave  plenty  of 
interest  to  the  scene,  had  the  general  aspect  of  the 
place  failed  in  its  attractions. 

Soon  after  our  return  to  headquarters,  the  survey 
party  arrived  from  the  interior  of  the  hills,  and  after 
a  few  days'  rest,  departed  for  their  summer  quarters. 
Captain  Butler  then  started  for  England,  and  Mr. 
Needham  came  in  to  Samagudting. 

Thus  left  in  charge  for  a  considerable  period,  I  felt 
justified  in  doing  more  than  I  should  have  done,  had 
my  stay  only  been  of  a  temporary  nature,  and  I 
went  most  thoroughly  into  all  questions  connected 
with  the  hills  and  their  administration.  My  long 
experience  in  charge  of  a  native  state  full  of  wild 
hill  tribes,  and  my  personal  knowledge  of  many  of 
the  Naga  and  other  wild  tribes  of  Assam  (a  know- 
ledge that  went  back  as  far  as  1860),  were  a  great 
help  to  me,  as  I  was  consequently  not  new  to  the 
work.  The  eastern  frontier  had  always  been  to  my 
mind  the  most  interesting  field  of  work  in  India,  and 
now  it  was  for  me  to  learn  all  I  could. 


22  MY    EXPERIENCES   IN    MANIPUK. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Historical  events  connected  with  Manipur  and  the  Naga  Hills — Different 
tribes — Their  religion — Food  and  customs. 

SHORTLY  after  iny  arrival  at  Samagudting,  I  received 
a  cheering  letter,  just  when  I  most  needed  it,  from 
my  old  friend  Wynne,  then  Acting  Foreign  Secre- 
tary, saying,  "  Don't  be  too  disappointed  at  not 
receiving  a  better  appointment  than  the  Naga  Hills. 
You  will  have  plenty  of  good  work  to  do,  and  you 
will  increase  your  already  very  extensive  knowledge 
of  wild  tribes."  It  was  the  last  letter  I  ever  received 
from  him,  as  cholera  quickly  carried  him  off,  and  I 
lost  in  him  one  of  the  kindest  friends  I  ever  had, 
one  who  had  constantly  interested  himself  in  my 
work,  and  given  me  advice.  Such  a  friend  would 
have  been  invaluable  now.  Our  position  in  the 
Naga  Nills  was  an  anxious  one,  and  can  only  be 
properly  realised  by  knowing  the  course  of  previous 
events. 

Our  first  acquaintance  with  the  Nagas  practically 
began  in  1832,  when  Captain  Jenkins  and  Lieutenant 
Pemberton  escorted  by  Rajah  Ghumbeer  Singh's 
Manipur  troops,  forced  a  passage  through  the  hills  with 
a  view  to  ascertaining  if  there  were  a  practicable 
route  into  Assam.  They  came  via  Paptongmai  and 
Samagudting  to  Mohong  Deejood.  There  is  every 


KOHIMA  STONE. 


l/'ayr  23. 


THE   KOHIMA   STONE.  23 

reason  to  believe  that  the  Manipuris  in  former  days 
did  penetrate  into  the  Naga  Hills,  and  exacted  tribute 
when  they  felt  strong  enough  to  do  so.  All  the 
villages  have  Manipur  names  in  addition  to  their 
own.  But  during  the  period  of  her  decadence,  just 
before  and  during  the  Burmese  War  of  1819-25, 
any  influence  Manipur  may  have  possessed  fell  into 
abeyance.  At  that  time  it  was  re-asserted,  and 
G-hunibeer  Singh  reduced  several  villages  to  sub- 
mission, including  the  largest  of  all,  Kohima,  at 
which  place  he  stood  upon  a  stone  and  had  his  foot- 
prints sculptured  on  it,  in  token  of  conquest.  This 
was  set  up  in  a  prominent  position,  together  with 
an  upright  stone  bearing  carved  figures  and  an 
inscription. 

The  Nagas  greatly  respected  this  stone  and  cleaned 
it  from  time  to  time.  They  opened  a  large  trade 
with  Manipur,  and  whenever  a  Manipuri  visited  a 
Naga  village  he  was  treated  as  an  honoured  guest, 
at  a  time  when  a  British  subject  could  not  venture 
into  the  interior  without  risk  of  being  murdered. 

Even  up  to  the  Naga  Hills  campaign  of  1879-80, 
the  Nagas  regarded  Manipur  as  the  greater  power  of 
the  two,  because  her  conduct  was  consistent ;  if  she 
threatened,  she  acted.  One  British  subject  after 
another  might  be  murdered  with  impunity,  but  woe 
betide  the  village  that  murdered  a  subject  of  Manipur. 
A  force  of  Manipuris  was  instantly  despatched,  the 
village  was  attacked,  destroyed,  arid  ample  compen- 
sation exacted.  The  system  answered  well  for 
Manipur ;  many  of  the  Nagas  began  to  speak 
Manipuri,  and  several  villages  paid  an  annual 
tribute.  Still,  up  to  1851,  we  considered  that  we 


24  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MAN1PUR. 

had   some  shadowy  claim  to  the  hills,  though  we 
never  openly  asserted  it. 

I  may  as  well  give  a  short  account  of  the  different 
tribes  inhabiting  the  Naga  Hills  district  when  I  took 
charge.  The  oldest  were — 

CACHAREES. 

Their  origin  is  obscure.  They  are  first  met  with 
in  the  north-east  portion  of  the  Assam  Valley 
between  the  Muttuk  country  and  Sudya.  Round 
the  last  in  the  vast  forests,  there  are  numerous  ruins 
ascribed  by  the  people  to  the  Cacharee  Eajahs,  built 
of  substantial  brickwork.  I  have  not  seen  any 
sculptured  stonework,  but  it  may  exist.  The  tradi- 
tions give  no  clue  to  their  original  home,  which  was 
probably  in  Thibet.  From  the  neighbourhood  of 
Sudya  they  penetrated  down  the  valley,  leaving 
buildings  and  remnants  of  their  tribes  here  and  there, 
notably  in  the  Durrung  district.  The  main  body 
were,  for  a  time  settled  in  the  nighbourhood  of 
Dimapur,  and  the  country  lying  between  it  and 
Doboka,  the  Cachar  district,  but  when  they  arrived 
or  how  long  they  stayed  we  have  no  means  of  as- 
certaining. They  occupied  the  first  two  or  three 
ranges  of  the  Burrails  and  stoutly  contested  posses- 
sion with  the  Naga  invaders,  and  after  they  had  been 
dispossessed  made  a  gallant  attempt  to  retrieve  their 
affairs  by  an  attack  on  Sephema.  They  entered  the 
hills  by  the  Diphoo  gorge  and  constructed  a  paved 
road  up  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Sephema  where 
they  would  probably  have  succeeded  in  their  opera- 
tions, but  that  the  Sephema  Nagas,  skilful  then  as 


CAPTAIN  BUTLEK.  25 

now,  in  the  use  of  poison,  poisoned  the  waters  and 
destroyed  a  large  portion  of  the  invaders ;  the  rest 
retreated  to  Dimapur,  and  eventually  left  the  neigh- 
bourhood and  settled  in  Cachar,  to  which  they  gave 
their  name.  There  are  still  a  good  many  Cacharees 
on  the  banks  of  the  Kopiti,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Mohung-dee-jood.  They  are  a  fine  hardy  race,  and 
in  iny  time  the  Naga  Hills  police  was  largely  re- 
cruited from  them.  Under  Captain  Butler  they  did 
good  service,  and  would  have  gone  anywhere  when 
led  by  him.*  The  Cacharees  were  governed  formerly 
by  a  race  of  despotic  chiefs. 


KUKIS. 

The  Kukis  are  a  wandering  race  consisting  of 
several  tribes  who  have  long  been  working  up  from 
the  South.  They  were  first  heard  of  as  Kukis,  in 
Manipur,  between  1830  and  1840  ;  though  tribes  of 
the  same  race  had  long  been  subject  to  the  Rajah 
of  Manipur.  The  new  immigrants  began  to  cause 
anxiety  about  the  year  1845,  and  soon  poured  into 
the  hill  tracts  of  Manipur  in  such  numbers,  as  to 
drive  away  many  of  the  older  inhabitants.  Fortu- 
nately, the  political  agent  (at  this  time  Lieutenant 
afterwards  Colonel  McCulloch)f  was  a  man  well 

*  Captain  Butler  was  struck  by  a  spear  from  a  Naga  ambuscade,  near 
the  village  of  Pangti  in  the  Naga  Hills  on  December  25,  1876.  He  died 
on  January  7.  He  had  held  the  appointment  of  Political  Agent  for  seven 
years,  and  was  the  son  of  Colonel  Butler,  the  author  of  '  Scenes  in 
Assam '  and  '  A  Sketch  in  Assam,'  the  earliest  accounts  of  that  eastern 
border. — ED. 

t  "  The  influence  exercised  by  Colonel  McCulloch  as  a  political  agent  at 
Manipur  was  most  beneficial,"  wrote  the  Times,  April  3,  1891,  "and 


26  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUK. 

able  to  cope  with  the  situation.  Cool  and  resolute, 
he  at  once  realised  and  faced  the  difficulty.  Manipur 
in  those  days,  owing  to  intestine  quarrels,  could  have 
done  nothing,  and  the  Eajah  Nur  Singh  gladly 
handed  over  the  management  of  the  new  arrivals  to 
him. 

Seeing  that  the  Kukis  had  been  driven  north  by 
kindred  but  more  powerful  tribes,  and  that  their 
first  object  was  to  secure  land  for  cultivation ; 
McCulloch,  as  they  arrived,  settled  them  down, 
allotting  to  them  lands  in  different  places  according 
to  their  numbers,  and  where  their  presence  would 
be  useful  on  exposed  frontiers.  He  advanced  them 
large  sums  from  his  own  pocket,  assigning  different 
duties  to  each  chiefs  followers.  Some  were  made 
into  irregular  troops,  others  were  told  off  to  carry 
loads  according  to  the  customs  of  the  state.  Thus  in 
time  many  thousands  of  fierce  Kukis  were  settled 
down  as  peaceful  subjects  of  Manipur,  and  Colonel 
McCulloch  retained  supreme  control  over  them  to 
the  last.  So  great  was  his  influence,  that  he  had 
only  to  send  round  his  silver  mounted  dao  (Burmese 
sword)  as  a  kind  of  fiery  cross,  when  all  able-bodied 
men  at  once  assembled  at  his  summons. 

Colonel  McCulloch's  policy  of  planting  Kuki  settle- 
ments on  exposed  frontiers,  induced  the  Government 
of  Bengal  to  try  a  similar  experiment,  and  a  large 
colony  of  Kukis  were  settled  in  1855  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Langting,  to  act  as  a  barrier  for  North 
Cachar  against  the  raids  of  the  Angami  Nagas.  The 

since  his  time  no  one  has  been  more  successful  than  Colonel  Johnstone, 
who  took  charge  in  1877,  and  rendered  conspicuous  seivice  by  raising  the 
siege  of  Kohimas  by  the  Nagas  in  1879." — ED. 


NAGA  TRIBES.  27 

experiment  answered  well  to  a  certain  extent,  and 
would  have  answered  better,  had  we  been  a  little  less 
timid.  The  Kukis  are  strictly  monarchical,  and  their 
chiefs  are  absolutely  despotic,  and  may  murder  or 
sell  their  subjects  into  slavery  without  a  murmur  of 
dissent.  Their  original  home  cannot  be  correctly 
ascertained,  but  there  seem  to  be  traces  of  them  as 
far  south  as  the  Malay  peninsula.  They  are  readily 
distinguishable  from  the  Nagas,  and  are  braver  men. 
Their  women  are  often  very  fair,  and  wear  their 
hair  in  a  long  thick  plait  down  the  back.  The  men 
are  mostly  copper  coloured,  and  have  often  good 
features. 

KUTCHA  NAGAS. 

The  tribe  we  call  Kutcha  Nagas,  very  much 
resemble  the  Angamis,  though  of  inferior  physique. 
They  are  closely  allied  to  the  Nagas  in  Manipur,  as 
well  as  to  the  Angamis,  and  probably  were  pushed 
in  front  of  the  latter  from  the  Northern  North-East, 
as  the  Kukis  were  forced  in  by  the  pressure  of 
stronger  tribes  to  their  South.  They  have  always 
been  less  warlike  than  their  powerful  neighbours, 
though  they  could  be  troublesome  at  times. 

ANQAMI  NAGAS. 

A  strong  built,  hardy,  active  race,  the  men  aver- 
aging 5  feet  8  inches  to  6  feet  in  height,  and  the 
women  tall  in  proportion.  In  colour  they  vary  from 
a  rich  brown  to  a  yellowish  or  light  brown.  They 
have  a  manly  independent  bearing,  and  are  bred  up 
to  war  from  their  earliest  years.  While  the  Kukis 


28  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

are  monarchists,  the  Nagas  are  republicans,  and  their 
Peuraahs,  or  chiefs,  are  elected,  and  though  they  often 
have  great  influence,  they  are  in  theory,  only  primus 
inter  pares,  and  are  liable  at  any  time  to  be  displaced. 
Practically  they  often  remain  in  office  for  years,  and 
are  greatly  respected. 

Where  the  Angamis  came  from  must  be  uncertain 
till  the  languages  of  our  Eastern  frontier  are  scientifi- 
cally analysed.  The  late  Mr.  Damant,  a  man  of 
great  talent  and  powers  of  research,  had  a  valuable 
paper  regarding  them  in  hand,  but  it  perished  in 
the  insurrection  of  1879.  The  probability  is,  that 
they  came  originally  from  the  south-eastern  corner 
of  Thibet. 

Some  of  the  Maories  of  New  Zealand  reminded  me 
of  the  Angamis.  The  well-defined  nose  is  a  prominent 
characteristic  of  the  last,  as  it  is  of  some  of  the  in- 
habitants of  Polynesia.  The  people  of  Sarnagud- 
ting — that  is,  the  adults  in  1874 — told  me  that  they 
had  come  from  the  north-east,  and  were  the  seventh 
generation  that  had  been  there.  When  they  first 
occupied  their  village,  the  site  was,  they  said,  covered 
with  the  bones  and  tusks  of  elephants  which  had 
come  there  to  die. 

Had  I  lived  longer  among  the  Nagas,  I  should 
have  liked  to  have  made  deeper  researches  into  their 
language  and  past  history;  as  it  was,  all  my  time 
was  taken  up  with  my  active  duties,  and  I  had  not 
a  moment  to  spare. 

Their  dress  is  a  short  kilt  of  black  cotton  cloth, 
ornamented,  in  the  case  of  warriors,  with  rows  of 
cowrie  shells.  They  have  handsome  cloths  of  dark 
blue  arid  yellow  thrown  over  their  shoulders  in  cold 


LIFE   FOE  LIFE.  29 

weather.  Their  arms  are  spears  and  heavy  short 
swords,  called  by  the  Assamese  name  of  dao  ;  helmets 
and  shields  of  wicker  work  (used  chiefly  to  cover  the 
more  vulnerable  parts  of  the  body)  and  sometimes 
clothed  with  skins  of  tigers  or  bears.  They  have 
also  tails  of  wood  decorated  with  goats'  hair  dyed 
red.  The  warspears  are  plain  ;  the  ornamental  ones 
are  covered  with  goats'  hair  dyed  red,  and  are 
sometimes  used  in  battle.  Their  drill  is  of  a  most 
complicated  style,  and  requires  much  practice.  An 
Angami  in  full  war  paint  is  a  very  formidable- 
looking  individual.  They  are  divided  into  many 
clans.  Several  clans  often  inhabit  one  village,  and 
it  frequently  happened  that  two  clans  thus  situated 
were  at  deadly  feud  with  each  other. 

Blood  feuds  were  common  among  all  the  hill 
tribes,  but  the  system  was  carried  to  excess  among 
the  Angamis.  Life  for  life  was  the  rule,  and  until 
each  of  the  opposing  parties  had  lost  an  equal 
number,  peace  was  impossible,  and  whenever 
members  of  one  village  met  any  belonging  to  the 
other,  hostilities  were  sure  to  result.  Sometimes  an 
attempt  was  made  to  bring  about  a  reconciliation, 
but  then  it  frequently  happened  that  the  number  of 
slain  to  the  credit  of  each  were  unequal.  Mozuma 
and  Sephema  might  be  at  war,  and  Mozuma  killed 
five,  whereas  Sephema  had  killed  only  four. 
?epheraa  says,  "I  must  kill  one  more  to  make  the 
balance,  then  I  will  treat  for  peace,"  so  war  con- 
tinues. Some  day  Sephema  has  a  chance,  but  kills 
two  instead  of  the  one  that  was  required  ;  this  gives 
her  the  advantage,  and  Mozuma  refuses  to  treat. 
So  it  goes  on  interminably.  The  position  of  a  small 


30  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

village  at  war  with  a  large  one,  was  often  deplorable 
as  no  one  dared  to  leave  the  village  except  under  a 
strong  escort.  I  once  knew  a  case  of  some  Sephema 
men  at  feud  with  Mozuma,  hiring  two  women  of  the 
powerful  village  of  Konoma  to  escort  them  along  the 
road  as  thus  accompanied  no  one  dare  touch  them. 

Once  at  Piphima,  when  my  assistant  Mr.  Needham 
was  encamped  there,  parties  from  two  hostile  vil- 
lages suddenly  met  each  other  and  rushed  to  arms. 
He  was  equal  to  the  occasion  and  stopped  the 
combat.  I  made  it  a  criminal  offence  to  fight  on  our 
road  called  the  "  Political  Path,"  and  it  was  generally 
respected  as  neutral  ground. 

No  Angami  could  assume  the  "toga  virilis,"  in 
this  case  the  kilt  ornamented  with  cowrie  shells, 
already  described,  until  he  had  slain  an  enemy,  and 
in  the  more  powerful  villages  no  girl  could  marry  a 
man  unless  he  was  so  decorated.  The  cowrie  orna- 
ments were  taken  off  when  a  man  was  mourning  the 
death  of  a  relation. 

To  kill  a  baby  in  arms,  or  a  woman,  was  accounted 
a  greater  feat  than  killing  a  man,  as  it  implied 
having  penetrated  to  the  innermost  recesses  of  an 
enemy's  country,  whereas  a  man  might  be  killed 
anywhere  by  a  successful  ambush.  I.  knew  a  man 
who  had  killed  sixty  women  and  children,  when  on 
one  occasion  he  happened  to  come  upon  them  after  all 
the  men  had  left  the  village  on  a  hunting  expedition. 

Every  Naga  who  was  able  to  murder  an  enemy 
did  so,  and  received  great  commendation  for  it  by 
all  his  friends.  Later,  when  I  was  in  Manipur,  I 
had  a  pleasant  young  fellow  as  interpreter.  He 
often  took  my  boys  out  for  a  walk  when  he  had 


VILLAGEKS.  31 

nothing  else  to  do,  and  was  a  careful,  trustworthy 
man.  Once  I  asked  him  how  many  people  he  had 
killed  (he  wore  the  cowrie  kilt,  a  sure  sign  he  had 
killed  some  one).  A  modest  blush  suffused  his  face 
as  if  he  did  not  like  to  boast  of  such  a  good  deed, 
and  he  mildly  said,  "Two,  a  woman  and  a  girl!" 

The  Angamis  when  on  friendly  terms  are  an 
agreeable  people  to  deal  with,  polite,  courteous,  and 
hospitable.  I  never  knew  any  one  take  more  pains 
or  more  successfully  not  to  hurt  the  susceptibilities 
of  those  they  are  talking  to,  indeed  they  show  a  tact 
and  good  feeling  worthy  of  imitation.  My  wife  and 
I  soon  knew  all  the  villagers  well,  and  often  visited 
them,  when  we  were  always  offered  beer,  and  asked 
to  come  into  their  verandahs  and  sit  down,  and  just 
as  we  were  leaving,  our  host  would  search  the  hen's 
nests  to  give  us  a  few  eggs.  The  beer  we  never 
took,  but  many  Europeans  like  it  and  find  it  whole- 
some. It  is  made  of  rice  and  has  rather  a  sharp 
taste.  Their  houses  are  large  substantial  structures 
built  of  wood  and  bamboo  thatched  with  grass,  and 
the  eaves  come  low  down.  Houses  with  any  pre- 
tensions always  have  verandahs.  Besides  the  houses, 
there  are  granaries,  often  at  a  distance  for  fear  of 
fire.  The  Angamis  bury  their  dead  in  and  about 
their  villages,  and  for  a  time,  decorate  them  with 
some  of  the  belongings  of  the  deceased.  Naturally 
they  strongly  object  to  the  graves  being  disturbed, 
and  in  making  alterations  I  was  careful  not  to  hurt 
their  feelings. 

The  more  powerful  villages  in  the  interior  of  the 
hills  have  a  large  area  of  cultivation  on  terrnces  cut 
out  of  the  hillside,  and  carefully  irrigated.  Some  of 


32  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUR. 

the  terraces  go  up  the  hillsides  to  a  great  height, 
and  show  considerable  skill  in  their  formation.  On 
these  terraces  lowland  rice  is  grown  and  is  very 
productive.  Some  of  the  smaller  outlying  villages 
like  Samagudting  have  only  ordinary  hill  cultiva- 
tion, where  upland  rice  is  grown.  The  terrace  land 
used  to  be  greatly  valued,  and  was  often  sold  at 
prices  equal  to  £2'2  to  £25  per  acre ! 

The  Angamis,  in  common  with  most  hill-tribes 
that  I  have  come  across,  have  a  vague  indefinite 
belief  in  a  supreme  being,  but  look  on  him  as  too 
great  and  good  to  injure  them.  They  believe  them- 
selves also  to  be  subject  to  the  influence  of  evil 
spirits,  whom  it  is  their  constant  endeavour  to 
appease  by  sacrifices.  Every  misfortune  is,  as  a 
rule,  ascribed  to  evil  spirits,  and  much  money  is 
spent  on  appeasing  them,  the  usual  way  being  to 
offer  fowls,  of  which  the  head,  feet,  and  entrails  are 
offered  to  the  demon,  with  many  incantations.  The 
other  parts  are  eaten  by  the  sacrificer. 

All  kinds  of  animals  are  readily  eaten  by  the 
Angamis,  and  those  dying  a  natural  death  are  not 
rejected.  Dogs'  flesh  is  highly  esteemed.  When 
a  man  wants  to  have  a  delicate  dish,  he  starves  his 
dog  for  a  day  to  make  him  unusually  voracious,  and 
then  cooks  a  huge  dish  of  rice  on  which  he  feeds  the 
hungry  beast.  As  soon  as  the  dog  has  eaten  his 
fill,  he  is  knocked  on  the  head  and  roasted,  cut  up 
and  divided,  and  the  rice  being  taken  out,  is  con- 
sidered the  bonne  louche.  The  Manipur  dogs  are 
regularly  bred  for  sale  to  the  hill-tribes,  Nagas 
included,  and  a  portion  of  the  bazaar,  or  market, 
used  to  be  allotted  to  them.  I  have  seen  a  string  of 


NAGA  CUSTOMS.  33 

nineteen  dogs  being  led  away  to  be  strangled. 
Poor  tilings,  they  seemed  to  realise  that  all  was  not 
well. 

The  Naga  women  are  not  handsome  but  very 
pleasant-looking,  and  many  of  the  girls  are  pretty, 
but  soon  age  with  the  hard  toil  they  have  to  per- 
form ;  working  in  the  fields  and  carrying  heavy 
loads  up  endless  hills.  They  have  plenty  of  spirit 
and  can  generally  hold  their  own.  They  do  not 
marry  till  they  are  nearly  or  quite  grown  up. 
Divorce  can  be  easily  obtained  when  there  is  an 
equal  division  of  goods.  Often  a  young  man  takes 
advantage  of  this,  and  marries  a  rich  old  widow,  and 
soon  divorces  her,  receiving  half  her  property,  when 
he  is  in  a  position  to  marry  a  nice  young  girl.  The 
tribal  name  of  the  Angami  Nagas  is  "  Tengima." 
Naga  is  a  name  given  by  the  inhabitants  of  the 
plains,  and  in  the  Assamese  language  means 
"  naked."  As  some  of  the  Naga  tribes  are  seen 
habitually  in  that  state,  the  name  was  abitrarily 
applied  to  them  all.  It  is  the  greatest  mistake  to 
connect  them  with  the  snake  worshippers,  "Nag 
Bungsees"  of  India.  Neither  Nagas  or  Manipuris, 
or  any  tribes  on  the  eastern  frontier,  are  addicted  to 
this  worship,  or  have  any  traditions  connected  with 
it,  and  any  snake,  cobra  (Nag)  or  otherwise,  would 
receive  small  mercy  at  their  hands.  The  slightest 
personal  acquaintance  with  the  Assamese  and  their 
language,  would  have  dispelled  this  myth  for  ever. 

The  Nagas  are  skilful  iron-workers  and  turn  out 
very  handsome  spears.  Their  women  weave  sub- 
stantial and  pretty  coloured  cloths,  and  every  man 
knows  enough  of  rough  carpentering  to  enable  him 

D 


34  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUB. 

to  build  his  Louse,  and  make  pestles  and  mortars  for 
husking  rice.  They  make  rough  pottery,  but  with- 
out the  potter's  wheel. 

After  Ghumbeer  Singh's  Expedition,  our  next 
dealings  with  the  Angamis  were  in  1833,  when 
Lieut.  Gordon,  adjutant  of  the  Manipur  Levy,  ac- 
companied the  Rajah  of  Manipur  with  a  large  force 
of  Manipuris  into  the  Angami  hills.  On  this 
occasion,  Kohima  and  other  villages  were  subdued, 
as  already  stated,  and  an  annual  tribute  exacted 
by  Manipur. 

So  far  as  the  British  territories  were  concern  ad, 
Naga  raids  went  on  as  usual,  but  nothing  was  done 
till  early  in  January  1839,  when  Mr.  Grange,  sub- 
Assistant  Commissioner  of  the  Nowgong  District, 
was  despatched  with  a  detachment  of  the  First  Assam 
Sebundies  (now  43rd  Goorkha  Light  Infantry),  fifty 
men  of  the  Cachar  Infantry,  and  some  Shan  Militia, 
with  orders  to  try  and  repress  these  annual  outrages. 
His  expedition  was  ill  supplied,  but  fortunately 
returned  without  any  severe  losses.  His  route  lay 
through  North  Cachar  to  Berrimeh ;  thence,  via 
Razepima  to  Samagudting  and  Mohung  Deejood ; 
beyond  gaining  local  knowledge  there  was  no  result, 
except  perhaps  to  show  that  a  well-armed  party 
could  march  where  it  liked  through  the  hills. 

In  December  1839,  Mr.  Grange  again  visited  the 
hills,  and,  excepting  1843,  an  expedition  was  sent 
into  the  hills  every  year  till  1846  when  a  post  was 
permanently  established  at  Samagudting.  None  of 
these  expeditions  had  any  really  satisfactory  result. 
The  Angamis  submitted  to  our  troops  at  the  time, 
and  directly  we  retreated,  murder  and  the  carrying 


HILL  WARFARE.  35 

off  of  slaves  re-commenced.  The  establishment  of  the 
post  at  Samagudting  had  the  effect  of  improving  our 
relations  with  the  people  of  that  village ;  and  Mozuma 
was  always  inclined  to  he  friendly ;  beyond  this 
nothing  was  accomplished. 

In  August  1849,  Bog  Chand  Darogal,  a  brave 
Assamese  who  was  in  charge  of  Samagudting,  was 
murdered  by  one  of  the  clans  of  Mozuma,  owing  to 
the  rash  way  in  which  he  interfered  in  a  dispute  with 
another  clan,  which  latter  remaind  faithful  to  us, 
and  thus  led  to  another  expedition  on  a  large  scale. 
Finally,  in  December  1850,  a  large  force  was  sent 
up  with  artillery.  Kohima,  which  had  sent  a 
challenge,  was  destroyed  on  February  llth,  1851. 
In  this  last  engagement  over  three  hundred  Nagas 
were  killed,  and  our  prestige  thoroughly  established. 
We  might  then,  with  great  advantage  to  the  people 
and  our  own  districts,  have  occupied  a  permanent 
post,  and  while  protecting  our  districts  that  had 
suffered  so  sorely  from  Naga  raids,  have  spread 
civilisation  far  and  wide  among  the  hill-tribes.  Of 
course  we  did  nothing  of  the  kind ;  on  such  occasions 
the  Government  of  India  always  does  the  wrong 
thing;  it  was  done  now,  and,  instead  of  occupying 
a  new  position,  we  retreated,  even  abandoning  our 
old  post  at  Samagudting,  and  only  maintaining  a 
small  body  of  Shan  Militia  at  Dimapur.  The  Nagas 
ascribed  out  retreat  to  fear,  the  periodical  raids  on 
our  unfortunate  villages  were  renewed,  and  unheeded 
by  us ;  and  finally,  in  1856,  we  withrew  the  detach- 
ment from  Dimapur  and  abandoned  the  post. 

After  that,  the  Nagas  ran  riot,  and  one  outrage 
after  another  was  committed.     In  1862  the  guard 

D  2 


36  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

and  village  of  Borpatliar  were  attacked  and,  one 
Sepoy  and  thirteen  villagers  killed  and  two  children 
carried  off  as  slaves,  but  no  notice  was  taken  ;  it  was 
not  till  1SGG  that,  wearied  out  by  repeated  outrages 
and  insults,  we  determined  to  establish  ourselves  in 
the  hills,  and  once  for  all  put  down  raiding. 

A  kind  of  vague  boundary  between  Manipur  and 
the  Naga  Hills  had  been  laid  down  in  1842,  by 
Lieutenant  Biggs  on  our  part,  and  Captain  Gordon 
on  the  part  of  the  Durbar,  but  in  1851,  when 
utterly  sick  of  Naga  affairs,  we  determined  on  a 
policy  of  non-intervention,  permission  in  writing 
was  given  to  the  Durbar  to  extend  its  authority  over 
the  Naga  villages  on  our  side  of  the  border.  This 
must  be  remembered  later  on.  Failing  any  intention 
on  our  part  to  annex  the  hills,  it  would  have  been 
good  policy  to  have  re-organised  the  Manipur  terri- 
tory, and  to  have  aided  the  Maharajah  to  annex 
and  subdue  as  much  as  he  could  under  certain  restric- 
tions. Had  this  been  done  we  should  have  saved 
ourselves  much  trouble.  Personally,  I  would  rather 
see  the  Naga  Hills  properly  administered  by  ourselves, 
but  the  strong  rule  of  Manipur  would  have  been  far 
better  than  the  state  of  things  that  prevailed  for 
many  years  after  1851. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Value  of  keeping  a  promise — Episode  of  Sallajee — Protection  given  to 
small  villages,  and  the  large  ones  defied — "Thorough  Government 
of  India"  views — A  plea  for  Christian  education  in  the  Naga  Hills. 

ALMOST  from  the  day  I  took  charge,  I  let.  it  be 
known  that  I  was,  as  natives  say,  "  a  man  of  ono 
word,"  and  that  if  I  said  a  thing,  I  meant  it.  If  I 
promised  a  thing,  whether  a  present  or  punishment, 
the  man  got  it ;  and  if  I  refused  any  request,  months 
of  importunity  would  not  move  me.  This  rule  saved 
me  much  time  and  worry  ;  instead  of  being  pestered 
for  weeks  with  some  petition,  in  the  hope  that  my 
patience  would  be  worn  out,  I  simply  said  Yes,  or 
No,  and  the  people  soon  learned  that  my  decision 
was  final.  Later  on,  during  the  Naga  Hills  cam- 
paign, I  found  that  my  ways  had  not  been  forgotten, 
and  this  made  dealing  with  the  people  much  simpler 
than  it  might  have  been. 

A  certain  number  of  the  villages  kept  one  or  two 
men,  as  the  case  might  be,  constantly  in  attendance  on 
me  to  represent  them.  These  were  called  delegates, 
and  received  ten  rupees  each  per  mensem.  I  gave  the 
strictest  orders  to  these  men  not  to  engage  in  their 
tribal  raids,  but  to  remain  absolutely  neutral. 
Sephema  had  two  delegates,  Sejile  and  Sallajee  by 
name,  and,  one  day,  it  was  reported  to  me  that  the 


38  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

last  had  joined  in  a  raid  by  bis  village  on  Mozuma, 
and  I  instantly  summoned  him  to  attend  and  put  him 
on  his  trial  for  disobeying  a  lawful  order.  Some  wise- 
acres in  the  place  shook  their  heads,  and  doubted  if 
1  were  strong  enough  to  punish,  or  the  advisibility  of 
doing  so ;  but  I  held  that  an  order  must  be  obeyed, 
otherwise,  it  was  no  use  issuing  orders,  also,  that  this 
was  an  opportunity  of  making  an  example.  Of 
course  it  was  an  experiment,  as  no  one  had  been 
punished  before  for  a  similar  offence,  and  I  well  knew 
that  resistance  on  his  part  would  mean  that  to  assert 
my  authority  I  must  attack  and  destroy  Sephema, 
but  I  felt  the  time  had  come  for  vigorous  action,  and 
was  prepared  to  go  through  with  it.  I  tried  Sallajee, 
found  him  guilty,  and  sentenced  him  to  six  months' 
imprisonment  in  Tezpore  jail.  In  giving  judgment, 
I  said,  "  You  have  not  been  guilty  of  a  disgraceful 
offence,  therefore,  I  do  not  sentence  you  to  hard 
labour,  and  shall  not  have  you  bound  or  handcuffed 
like  a  thief;  but,  remember,  you  cannot  escape  me,  so 
do  not  be  foolish  enough  to  run  away  from  the  man 
in  charge  of  you."  I  then  sent  him  in  charge  of  two 
police  sepoys  through  one  hundred  miles  of  forest, 
and  he  underwent  his  imprisonment  without  at- 
tempting to  get  away.  Right  thankful  I  was  that 
rny  experiment  succeeded.  Sallajee  lived  to  fight 
against  us,  during  the  campaign  in  the  Naga  Hills  in 
1879-80. 

The  orders  of  the  Government  of  India  were 
strictly  against  our  responsibilities  being  extended. 
We  took  tribute  from  Samagudting,  but  it  was  the 
only  village  we  considered  as  under  our  direct  rule, 
and  that  only  so  long  as  it  suited  us.  Before  leaving 


WEAK  POLICY.  39 

Calcutta,  the  Foreign  Secretary  said  to  me  emphati- 
cally, when  I  urged  an  extension  of  our  sway — "  but 
those  villages  (the  Angaini  Nagas)  are  not  British 
territory,  and  we  do  not  want  to  extend  the  '  red 
line.' " 

However,  Government  may  lay  down  rules,  but  as 
long  as  they  are  not  sound,  they  cannot  be  kept  to 
by  artificial  bonds,  and  sooner  or  later  events  prove 
stronger  than  theories.  The  fact  is,  that  no  Govern- 
ment of  late  years  had  ever  interested  itself  in  the 
Eastern  Frontier  tribes,  except  so  far  as  to  coax  them 
or  bribe  them  to  keep  quiet.  The  Abors  on  the 
banks  of  the  Burrhampooter  had  long  been  paid 
"  blackmail,"  and  any  subterfuge  was  resorted  to,  that 
would  stave  off  the  day  of  reckoning  which  was 
nevertheless  inevitable. 

As  regards  the  Nagas,  this  timidity  was  highly 
reprehensible.  We  had  acquired  such  a  prestige, 
that  the  least  sign  of  vigorous  action  on  our  part  was 
sure  to  be  crowned  with  success,  so  long  as  we  did 
not  make  some  foolish  mistake. 

The  people  in  the  hills  knew  that  we  objected  to 
the  system  of  raiding,  and  could  not  understand  why, 
such  being  the  case,  we  did  not  put  it  down,  and 
ascribed  our  not  doing  so  to  weakness,  wherein  they 
were  right,  and  inability  wherein  they  were  wrong. 
The  less  powerful  villages  would  at  any  time  have 
been  glad  of  our  protection,  and  one  of  the  most 
powerful — Mozuma,  was  anxious  to  become  subject 
to  us.  Offers  of  submission  had  been  made  once  or 
twice,  but  no  one  liked  to  take  the  responsibility  of 
going  against  the  policy  and  orders  of  the  Govern- 
ment. At  last  an  event  occurred  which  brought 


40  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

things  to  a  crisis,  and  forced  us  either  to  adopt  a 
strong  policy,  or  make  ourselves  contemptible  by  a 
confession  of  weakness,  and  indifference. 

Towards  the  end  of  March  1874,  a  deputation 
came  to  me  from  the  village  of  Mezeffina  begging 
for  protection  against  Mozuma,  with  whom  they  had 
a  feud,  and  from  whom  for  some  reason  or  other 
they  daily  expected  an  attack.  They  offered  to 
become  British  subjects  and  pay  revenue  in  return 
for  protection.  I  considered  the  matter  carefully, 
and  before  I  had  given  my  decision,  crowds  of  old 
people,  and  women  carrying  their  children,  came  in 
asking  me  to  save  their  lives.  I  at  once  decided  to 
grant  their  request,  and  promised  them  what  they 
asked,  on  condition  that  they  paid  up  a  year's  tribute 
in  advance.  This  they  at  once  did,  and  I  immedi- 
ately sent  a  messenger  to  proclaim  to  Mozuma  that 
the  people  of  Mezeffina  were  British  subjects,  and  to 
threaten  them  or  any  one  else  with  dire  vengeance 
if  they  dared  to  lay  hands  on  them.  Our  new  sub- 
jects asked  me  and  my  wife,  to  go  out  and  receive 
their  submission  in  person,  an  invitation  which  wo 
accepted,  and  next  day  a  large  number  of  men 
turned  up  to  carry  my  wife,  and  our  baggage,  and 
that  of  our  escort,  consisting  of  twenty  men. 

The  Mezeffina  men  rested  for  the  night  in 
Samagudting,  and  early  on  the  following  morning 
we  started,  and  reached  the  village  in  good  time, 
where  we  were  received  with  great  demonstrations 
of  respect.  We  spent  the  night  there,  and  then  were 
conveyed  back  to  Samagudting,  after  a  very  pleasant 
visit. 

I  did  not  underrate  the  grave  responsibility  that  I 


EXTENSION  OF  BRITISH  RULE.  41 

incurred  in  going  against  the  policy  of  Government, 
but  I  felt  it  was  utterly  impossible  that  I,  as  their 
representative,  could  quietly  stand  by,  and  see  a 
savage  massacre  perpetrated,  within  sight  of  our 
station  of  Samagudting.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
this  would  have  speedily  followed  had  I  sent  the 
people  away  without  acceding  to  their  wishes.  Of 
course,  I  might  have  used  my  influence  with  Mozuma 
to  prevent  a  raid  in  this  particular  instance,  but  that 
icould  have  been  giving  protection,  and,  I  argued,  it' 
we  give  protection,  let  us  get  a  little  revenue  to  help 
to  pay  for  it.  Why  should  all  the  advantage  be 
on  one  side  ?  Besides  a  half-and-half  policy  would 
never  have  succeeded.  "  Thorough  "  should  be  the 
motto  of  all  who  deal  with  savage  and  half-civilised 
races ;  a  promise  to  refer  to  Government  is  of  little 
avail  when  people  are  thinking  of  each  other's  blood. 
Action,  immediate  action,  is  what  is  required.  A 
failure  to  realise  this,  brought  on  later  the  Mozuma 
expedition  of  1877-78,  in  which  a  valuable  officer 
lost  his  life. 

Besides  the  obvious  objections  I  have  pointed  out, 
any  attempt  to  make  terms  in  favour  of  one  village 
after  another  by  negotiations  with  their  adversaries, 
would  have  involved  us  in  so  many  complications, 
that  it  would  probably  have  ended  in  a  combination 
against  us. 

I  reported  the  matter  to  Government,  and  before  I 
could  receive  any  answer,  the  village  of  Sitekima 
which  had  a  feud  with  Sephema  came  in  and  asked 
for  the  same  favour  to  be  accorded  to  it,  as  had  been 
granted  to  Mezeffina.  I  accordingly  took  them  over 
on  the  same  terms,  and  again  issued  a  proclamation 


42  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

calling  on  all  people  to  respect  their  rights  as  British 
subjects. 

Sooii  after  I  heard  from  the  Chief  Commissioner 
of  Assam,  directing  me  to  take  over  no  more  villages 
without  a  reference.  However,  this  could  not  be, 
there  was  no  telegraph  in  those  days,  and  the  tide  in 
favour  of  asking  for  our  protection  had  set  in  in 
earnest,  and  must  be  taken  at  the  flood.  "  Vestiyia 
nulla  retrorsum  "  there  was  no  retreat ;  and  having 
acted  according  to  my  judgment  for  the  best  interests 
of  the  State,  I  felt  bound  to  take  further  responsi- 
bility on  myself,  when  necessary.  Accordingly  when 
the  little  village  of  Pheniria  applied  for  protection 
and  offered  revenue,  I  at  once  acceded,  and  accepted 
their  allegiance  as  British  subjects,  with  the  result 
that  they  were  left  in  peace  by  their  powerful 
neighbours,  and  had  no  more  anxiety  as  to  their 
safety.  Phenina  was  followed  by  several  other 
villages,  to  whom  I  granted  the  same  terms. 

The  Mozuma  Nagas  were  always  an  intelligent  set 
of  men,  and  liked  to  be  in  the  forefront  of  any 
movement.  Seeing  the  part  that  other  villages  were 
taking,  they  came  forward  and  offered  to  pay 
revenue,  if  we  would  establish  a  guard  of  police  in 
their  village,  and  set  up  a  school  for  their  children 
to  attend.  This  was  a  question  involving  a  consider- 
able expenditure  of  money,  and  as  they  were  not  in 
need  of  protection,  I  felt  that  I  could  not  accede  to 
their  request  without  further  reference,  but  I  sent  on 
the  proposal  to  Government  with  a  strong  recom- 
mendation that  it  should  be  adopted.  The  consi- 
deration of  it  was  put  off  for  a  time,  and  when 
very  tardily  my  recommendation  was  accepted,  the 


RELIGIOUS  EDUCATION.  43 

Mozuma  people  had,  as  I  predicted,  changed  their 
minds.  Such  cases  are  of  constant  occurrence. 
When  will  our  rulers  take  the  story  of  the  Sibylline 
books  to  heart  ? 

The  question  of  education  generally,  was  one  that 
greatly  interested  me,  my  success  in  Keonjhur*  in 
the  tributary  Mehals  of  Orissa,  where  I  had  intro- 
duced schools,  having  been  very  great.  In  combina- 
tion with  other  suggestions,  I  strongly  urged  the 
advisability  of  establishing  a  regular  system  of 
education,  including  religious  instruction,  under  a 
competent  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England.  I 
pointed  out  that  the  Nagas  had  no  religion ;  that 
they  were  highly  intelligent  and  capable  of  receiving 
civilisation ;  that  with  it  they  would  want  a  religion, 
and  that  we  might  just  as  well  give  them  our  own, 
and  make  them  in  that  way  a  source  of  strength,  by 
thus  mutually  attaching  them  to  us.  Failing  this, 
I  predicted  that,  following  the  example  of  other  hill- 
tribes,  they  would  sooner  or  later  become  debased 
Hindoos  or  Mussulmans,  and  in  the  latter  case,  as 
we  knew  by  experience,  be  a  constant  source  of 
trouble  and  annoyance,  Mussulman  converts  in 
Assam  and  Eastern  Bengal,  being  a  particularly 
disagreeable  and  bigoted  set.  My  suggestion  did 
not  find  favour  with  the  authorities,  arid  I  deeply 
regret  it.  A  fine,  interesting  race  like  the  Angamis, 
might,  as  a  Christian  tribe,  occupy  a  most  useful 
position  on  our  Eastern  Frontier,  and  I  feel  strongly 

*  As  Assist-sup.  of  the  tributary  Mehals,  Sir  James  (then  Lieutenant) 
Johnstone  endowed  schools  at  Keonjhur  and  presented  the  Government 
with  some  land  he  had  bought  for  the  purpose.  When  the  Rajah,  during 
whose  minority  he  had  managed  the  affairs  of  Keonjhur  as  political 
officer,  came  of  age,  the  agency  was  abolifched  for  economy. — ED. 


44  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

that  we  are  not  justified  in  allowing  them  to  be 
corrupted  and  gradually  "  converted  "  by  the  miser- 
able, bigoted,  caste-observing  Mussulman  of  Bengal, 
men  who  have  not  one  single  good  quality  in 
common  with  the  manly  Afghans,  and  other  real 
Mussulman  tribes.  I  do  not  like  to  think  it,  but, 
unless  we  give  the  Nagas  a  helping  hand  in  time, 
such  is  sure  to  be  their  fate,  and  we  shall  have  our- 
selves to  thank  when  they  are  utterly  corrupted. 

The  late  General  Dalton,  C.S.I.,  when  Commis- 
sioner of  Chota  Nagpure,  did  his  utmost  to  aid 
Christian  Mission  among  the  wild  Kols ;  his  argu- 
ment being  like  mine,  that  they  wanted  a  religion, 
and  that  were  they  Christians,  they  would  be  a 
valuable  counterpoise  in  time  of  trouble  to  the  vast 
non-Christian  population  of  Behar.  In  the  same  way 
it  cannot  be  doubted,  that  a  large  population  of 
Christian  hill-men  between  Assam  and  Burmah, 
would  be  a  valuable  prop  to  the  State.  Properly 
taught  and  judiciously  handled,  the  Angamis  would 
have  made  a  fine  manly  set  of  Christians,  of  a  type 
superior  to  most  Indian  native  converts,  and  pro- 
bably devoted  to  our  rule.  As  things  stand  at 
present,  I  fear  they  will  be  gradually  corrupted  and 
lose  the  good  qualities,  which  have  made  them 
attractive  in  the  past,  and  that,  as  time  goes  on, 
unless  some  powerful  counter  influence  is  brought  to 
bear  on  them,  they  will  adopt  the  vile,  bigoted  type  of 
Mahommedanism  prevalent  in  Assam  and  Cachar,  and 
instead  of  becoming  a  tower  of  strength  to  us,  be  a  per- 
petual weakness  and  source  of  annoyance.  I  earnestly 
hope  that  I  may  be  wrong,  and  that  their  future  may 
be  as  bright  a  one  as  I  could  wish  for  them. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Dimapnr — A.  terrible  storm — Cultivation — Aggression  by  Konoma — My 
ultimatum — Konoma  submits — Birth  of  a  son — Forest  flowers — A 
fever  patient — Proposed  change  of  station — Leave  Naga  Hills — March 
through  the  forest — Depredation  by  tigers — Calcutta — Return  to 
England. 

ONCE  more  before  the  weather  began  to  be  un- 
pleasantly hot,  we  went  down  to  Dimapur  that  I 
might  inspect  the  road  and  a  rest  house  being  built 
at  Nowkatta.  Dimapur  though  hot,  was  pleasant 
enough  in  the  evening,  when  I  used  to  row  my  wife 
about  on  the  large  tank  in  a  canoe  which  just  held 
us  both.  We  could  see  a  few  feet  below  the  surface, 
the  remains  of  the  post  set  up  when  a  tank  is 
dedicated  to  the  deity.  This  post  is  usually  many 
feet  above  the  water,  but  here  it  had  rotted  away 
from  age.  On  a  tree  close  to  the  rest  house  I  shot  a 
chestnut  coloured  flying  squirrel. 

One  sultry  afternoon  I  rode  out  alone  to  IsTowkatta. 
About  half-way  I  was  stopped  by  a  sudden  storm, 
one  of  the  most  terrific  I  have  ever  seen ;  the  wind 
howled  through  the  forest,  and  the  trees  swayed  to 
and  fro  literally  like  blades  of  grass.  As  the  storm 
increased,  trees  were  torn  up  by  the  roots  right  and 
left,  and  some  that  were  very  firmly  rooted  were 
shattered  in  pieces.  Many  of  these  trees  were  80  to 
1 20  feet  in  height,  and  large  in  proportion,  but  the 


46  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

wind  was  so  high  that  I  never  heard  the  sound  of 
the  crash.  I  hardly  expected  to  escape  being  crushed 
by  a  falling  tree,  and  nothing  but  the  extreme 
activity  of  my  pony,  a  little  Manipuri,  saved  me.  I 
was  at  length  enabled  to  get  on  to  Nowkatta,  but  as 
I  returned,  I  had  much  difficulty  in  making  my  way 
through  the  masses  of  fallen  trees  which  formed  an 
obstacle  often  six  feet  in  height,  and  I  could  only 
pass  them  by  penetrating  the  dense  underwood,  and 
riding  round  one  end. 

I  returned  to  Dimapur  later  than  I  expected  and 
drenched  by  the  soaking  rain.  Next  day  we  went 
back  to  Samagudting  very  glad  to  be  again  in  a 
cooler  atmosphere.  We  both  paid  for  our  visit  to 
the  lowlands  in  a  sharp  attack  of  intermittent  i'ever. 
Luckily,  my  wife  speedily  recovered ;  but  it  told  on 
my  system,  already  saturated  with  malaria  and  was 
the  forerunner  of  constant  attacks. 

Except  for  its  unhealthiness,  Dimapur  was  a  nice 
place,  and,  if  properly  opened  out,  and  cultivated, 
the  country  would  be  far  more  salubrious.  For  this 
reason  I  advocated  families  being  induced  to  settle 
there  as  cultivators ;  and  I  had  a  scheme  for  estab- 
lishing a  Police  Militia  Reserve  in  that  district.  I 
thought  that  a  certain  number  of  the  Naga  Hills 
police  might  with  advantage  be  discharged  every 
year  and  enlisted  as  reserve  men,  liable  to  serve 
when  needed  in  case  of  trouble ;  a  reduced  rate  of 
pay  to  be  given  to  each  man,  and  a  grant  of  land  to 
cultivate.  I  believe  the  system  would  have  worked 
well,  but  it  was  not  sanctioned. 

An  incident  occurred  in  the  month  of  August 
which  might  have  proved  serious.  A  native  of  a 


NAGA  DISPUTES.  47 

Kutcha  Naga  village  within  sight  of  Samagudting 

came  to  complain  that,  while  gathering  wild  tea-seed 

for  sale,  he  had  been  driven  off  by  a  Konoma  Naga. 

Konoma,  though  not  the  most  populous  village,  had 

long  been  considered  the  most  powerful  and  warlike 

in  the  hills,  and  a  threat  from  one  of  its  members 

was  almost  a  sentence  of  death  to  a  man  from  a  weak 

village.      The  Merema  clan  also,  one  of  the-  worst 

in  the  hills  for  lawless  deeds,  had   never  made  its 

submission  to  Captain  Butler,  though  it  had  on  one 

occasion  to  his  predecessor.     On  hearing  the  man's 

complaint,  I  at  once  sent  off  a  message  by  a  Naga 

calling  upon  the  chiefs  of  Konoma  to  come  in  to  me, 

and  also  to  cease  molesting  their  neighbours ;  but  the 

man  returned,  saying  that  they  refused  to  come  in, 

and  intended  to  do  as  they  liked  with  the  tea-seed, 

as  it  was  theirs.      This  was  more  than  I  could  put 

up  with,  and  I  selected  a  particularly  trustworthy 

man,  a  naik  (corporal)  in  the  police  named  Kurum 

Singh,*  who  knew  the  Naga  language,  and  would, 

I  was  convinced,  speak  out  fearlessly,  and  deliver  my 

message.     I  sent  him  off  at  once  to  Konoma  to  call 

upon  the  head-men  to  come  in  without  delay,  and 

make  their  humble  submission  to  me  within  a  day 

and  a  half  of  receiving  the  summons,  failing  which 

I  would  attack  and  destroy  their  village.      Kurum 

Singh  left,  and  I  felt  rather  anxious,  as  Konoma 

contained   five   times   as   many    warriors   as   I  had 

police   all   told,  and  it  occupied  a  strong  position ; 

however,  I  felt  I  had  done  my  duty.     It  was  a  great 

satisfaction  when   Kurum   Singh   returned,    saying 

that  the  chiefs  were  coming  in,  and   they   did   so 

*  I  rewarded  Kurum,  and  he  distinguished  himself  later  on. 


48  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

within  the  stipulated  time,  and  made  their  submis- 
sion and  presented  me  with  a  large  state  spear  as  a 
token  of  it.  They  also  humbly  apologised  and 
promised  never  to  molest  that  Kutcha  Naga  villnge 
again ;  and  when  I  spoke  of  the  Queen,  begged  me 
to  write  to  her  and  say,  that  she  must  not  believe 
any  idle  tales  against  the  Konoma  men,  as  they 
would  be  her  humble  servants.  It  was  a  satis- 
factory ending  to  what  might  have  been  a  trouble- 
some business.  The  state  spear  now  ornaments 
my  hall. 

On  the  23rd  June,  my  wife  presented  me  with  a 
son,  and  he  being  the  first  child  of  pure  European 
parentage  born  in  the  hills,  the  Nagas  of  Samagud- 
ting  took  great  interest  in  the  baby,  and  old  Yatsole' 
the  Peumah,  said  he  should  be  their  chief  and  named 
him  "  Naga  Rajah."  The  friendly  women  and  girls 
from  the  village  constantly  came  to  see  him.  We 
liked  the  hills  and  the  people,  and  the  work  so  much 
that  we  both  felt  we  could  willingly  have  passed  our 
lives  among  them.  All  the  same,  our  accommodation 
was  really  most  wretched,  and  food  was  bad  and 
scarce,  and  water  scarcer.  As  the  rainy  season 
advanced  the  place  grew  more  and  more  unhealthy, 
and  having  a  baby  to  attend  to,  my  wife  never  left 
Samagudting.  I  continued  to  go  down  to  Dimapur 
occasionally,  and  sometimes  rode  out  with  my  friend 
Needham  to  inspect  the  path  that  was  being  cut  to 
Mohung  Deejood  and  a  rest  house  being  built  at  a 
place  in  the  forest  on  that  road,  called  Borsali.  It 
was  pleasant  to  have  a  companion  during  a  long 
lonely  ride.  Needham  was  an  indefatigable  worker, 
and  always  ready  for  a  dash.  He  made  a  capital 


FULFORD  HALL. 


[Page  48. 


A   NAGA   INVALID.  49 

frontier  officer,  and  has  since  greatly  distinguished 
himself  on  the  N.-E.  Frontier. 

Towards  the  end  of  August,  the  Vauda  Caerulea 
orchids  began  to  come  into  flower.  There  was  a 
magnificent  plant  of  them  in  a  large  old  tree  on  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  indeed  the  most  splendid  specimen 
of  their  kind  that  I  ever  saw ;  but  wild  flowers,  many 
really  beautiful,  were  generally  procurable,  especially 
a  small  snow-white  flower  rather  like  a  periwinkle 
that  grew  in  the  jungle  on  a  small  ever-green  bush. 
Ferns,  including  maidenhair,  were  very  plentiful, 
and  we  made  collections  of  them  in  our  morning  and 
evening  walks.  These  walks  often  led  us  past  stray 
huts,  and  once  my  wife  was  asked  to  come  into  one 
and  prescribe  for  a  sick  Naga  woman.  We  both 
entered  it  and  finding  that  the  woman  had  fever,  we 
told  her  husband  to  keep  her  cool  and  quiet,  and 
promised  some  medicine.  When  we  again  went  to 
see  her,  the  hut,  about  nine  feet  by  seven  feet  in  size, 
was  full  of  little  fires  on  the  floor,  over  which  several 
Nagas  were  drying  strips  of  flesh  from  an  elephant 
that  had  been  killed  a  few  miles  away.  The 
temperature  must  have  been  about  110  degrees,  so 
little  wonder  that  the  poor  woman  was  no  better. 
The  husband  said  she  would  not  take  her  medicine, 
and  when  in  our  presence  he  attempted  to  give  it 
she  hit  him  on  the  head  ;  yet  he  wore  the  warrior's 
kilt,  so  had  taken  at  least  one  life.  When  my  wife 
sat  down  by  her  and  gave  her  the  medicine  she  took 
it  readily.  Towards  the  end  of  the  rainy  season 
many  were  laid  low  by  fever.  Natives  of  other 
parts  of  India  until  thoroughly  acclimatised,  suffer 
greatly  from  the  diseases  peculiar  to  jungle  districts, 

E 


50  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUE. 

and  our  servants  were  not  exceptions  to  the  rule. 
Once  acclimatised,  a  Hindoostani  seems  able  to  stand 
anything.  It  used  to  be  said  in  my  regiment, 
the  1st  Assam  Light  Infantry  Battalion,  now  42nd, 
that  Hindoostani  recruits  spent  their  first  three  years' 
service  in  hospital !  I  am  sure  that  something  of 
the  same  kind  might  have  been  said  of  those  who 
came  to  the  Naga  Hills  before  the  headquarters  were 
removed  to  Kohima. 

Captain  Butler,  recognising  the  unsuitableuess  of 
Samagudting  for  a  station,  had  recommended  the  re- 
moval of  the  headquarters  to  Woka,  in  the  Lotah  Naga 
country,  and  about  sixty-three  miles  from  Kohima. 
I  spoke  to  him  on  the  subject,  and  pointed  out  the 
superior  advantages  of  Kohima  as  a  central  position, 
dominating  the  Angami  Naga  country.  He  quite 
agreed  with  me,  but  said  he  had  advocated  Woka  as 
being  nearer  the  plains,  nearer  water  carriage,  and 
altogether  a  more  comfortable  situation,  especially 
for  the  officers.  I  went  into  the  whole  subject  most 
carefully,  and  before  leaving  the  Naga  Hills  I 
thought  it  right  to  record  my  opinion  in  a  memo- 
randum to  the  Government  of  Assam.  This  I  did, 
pointing  out  as  forcibly  as  I  could  the  very  superior 
advantages  of  Kohima,  and  urging  most  strongly 
that  it  should  be  adopted  as  our  headquarters 
station  in  the  Naga  Hills.  As  I  was  only  the 
officiating  agent,  I  could  not  expect  my  views  to 
carry  as  much  weight  as  Captain  Butler's,  but 
convinced  as  I  was,  I  was  bound  to  state  them.  The 
question  was  not  settled  for  some  years  when 
Kohima  was  the  site  selected,  and  it  has  ever  since 
been  the  headquarters  station. 


A  BOUGH  JOUKNEY.  51 

I  had  never  got  over  the  attack  of  fever  I  had  in 
April,  and  as  the  rainy  season  advanced,  and  we 
were  for  days  together  enveloped  in  mist,  I  had 
constant  attacks,  with  other  complications,  and  as 
Captain  Butler  was  coming  out  in  November,  and 
the  doctor  strongly  recommended  me  to  go  to 
England  again,  I  determined  to  apply  for  leave. 
My  friend  Needham  had  gone  on  leave  to  Shillong, 
so  I  could  not  think  of  starting  till  he  returned.  He 
was  due  at  Samagudting  early  in  November,  and  I 
prepared  to  leave  then.  It  was  with  most  sincere 
regret  that  we  made  arrangements  for  starting. 
We  had  got  used  to  the  discomforts  of  the  place  and 
had  been  very  happy  there  and  liked  the  people,  and 
felt  that  they  liked  us;  the  cold  weather  too  was 
just  beginning  and  everything  around  us  looked 
beautiful. 

I  had  determined  to  march  straight  through  the 
forest  to  Doboka,  and  thence  take  boat  down  the 
Kullung  river  to  Gowhatty.  It  was  a  dreadful 
march  to  undertake,  along  a  mere  track  untraversed 
by  any  European  for  years,  but  my  wife  liked  the 
idea  of  it,  and  it  was  shorter  than  the  route  via 
Nigriting.  On  November  6th,  we  reluctantly  said 
"  good-bye  "  to  all  our  kind  friends  at  Samagudting 
and  marched  to  Dimapur,  where  we  halted  next  day 
to  get  all  our  things  into  order.  Some  of  the  chiefs 
of  Samagudting  accompanied  us  so  far  on  our  way 
and  bade  us  a  sorrowful  adieu  on  the  7th.  One  old 
fellow  took  quite  an  affectionate  farewell  of  our  baby 
Dick.  When  I  saw  him  again  in  1879,  he  was  blind, 
and  one  of  his  pretty  little  girls  was  dying. 

We  marched  through  dense  forest  on  the  8th  to 

E  2 


52  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

Borsali,  my  wife  riding  and  carrying  the  baby  in 
her  arms,  there  being  no  other  mode  of  progression 
along  such  a  bad  road.  On  the  9th  after  seven 
hours'  actual  inarching,  we  reached  Mohung  Deejood, 
a  place  prettily  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumoona 
river  with  the  last  speck  of  the  Rengma  Hills 
standing  out  in  high  relief  behind  the  village,  but  at 
some  distance  from  it.  Next  day  we  again  had  a 
tiring  march  of  eleven  hours,  including  a  halt  for 
breakfast  at  a  place  called  "  Silbheta  "  where  there 
are  splendid  waterfalls,  and  did  not  reach  our 
halting  place,  Bokuleea,  till  6  P.M.  The  last  two 
marches  had  been  through  a  country  devastated  by 
tigers  which  had  literally  eaten  up  the  population ; 
each  day  we  passed  deserted  village  sites.  At 
Bokuleea  we  made  rafts  and  floated  down  the  river 
to  Doboka,  which  we  reached  on  November  13th. 

Doboka  is  situated  close  to  the  hill  of  the  same 
name  and  was  a  prominent  object  from  Samagudting. 
There  we  took  boats,  and  travelled  in  them  down 
the  Kullung  river.  We  reached  the  junction  with 
the  Burrhampooter  at  daybreak  on  November  17th, 
and  Growhatty  at  midday.  I  was  most  thankful  to 
see  my  wife  and  child  safe  in  the  Dak  Bungalow 
after  what  was  for  delicate  people  a  perilous  journey, 
though  an  interesting  and  enjoyable  one,  through  a 
country  hardly  ever  traversed  by  European  officials, 
and  never  by  women  and  children.  After  a  few 
days  at  Gowhatty  to  rest  ourselves,  we  departed 
by  steamer  for  Goalundo,  arriving  there  early  on 
November  29th,  and  immediately  left  for  Calcutta, 
which  we  reached  the  same  evening  and  went  to 
stay  with  our  kind  friends  the  Rivers  Thompsons, 


RETURN  TO   ENGLAND.  53 

with  whom  we  had  travelled  out  to  India  in  1873. 
Glad  as  we  were  to  be  in  civilised  quarters  once 
more  after  all  our  wanderings,  we  could  not  help 
regretting  the  kindly  genial  people  we  had  left,  and 
the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  forest  and  mountain 
land,  where  we  had  lived  so  long  and  so  happily. 

On  arrival  in  Calcutta,  I  went  before  the  Medical 
Board,  but  not  liking  to  go  to  England  again  so 
soon,  I  applied  for  three  months'  leave  to  visit  the 
North- West  Provinces  for  change  of  air,  and  we 
visited  Benares,  Lucknow,  Cawnpore,  and  other 
towns.  I  do  not  attempt  to  describe  them,  as  it  has 
been  often  done  by  abler  pens  than  mine.  The  after 
symptoms  of  malaria  increased,  and  it  was  vain  to 
prolong  my  stay  in  India  in  the  hope  of  a  cure. 
The  Medical  Board  said  my  appearance  was  sufficient 
without  examination,  so  we  left  Calcutta  by  the  next 
steamer,  going  by  "  long  sea  "  to  avoid  the  fatiguing 
journey  across  India  to  Bombay.  After  unusually 
rough  weather  in  the  Mediterranean  and  off  the 
coast  of  Spain,  we  landed  at  Southampton,  on 
March  9th,  at  9  P.M.,  and  went  on  to  London  next 
mornin£. 


54  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Return  to  India — Attached  to  Foreign  Office — Imperial  assemblage  at 
Delhi — Almorah — Appointed  to  Manipur — Journey  to  Shillong — 
Cherra  Poojee — Colonel  McCulloch — Question  of  ceremony. 

MALARIA,  and  all  the  evils  that  follow  in  its  train, 
are  more  easily  acquired  than  got  rid  of.  Possibly 
two  years  in  England,  including  four  visits  to  Carls- 
bad, which  high  medical  authorities  seem  to  consider, 
and  very  justly,  a  sine  qua  non,  might  give  a  man  a 
good  chance  if  he  never  again  visited  a  malarious 
district,  otherwise,  my  own  experience  shows  me 
that  two  years  are  nothing.  Every  time  I  have 
gone  before  a  Medical  Board  in  London,  preparatory 
to  returning  to  duty,  their  last  charge  has  been, 
"  You  must  never  again  go  to  a  malarious  district !  " 
Medical  Boards  propose,  and  Government  and  cir- 
cumstances dispose. 

I  stayed  at  home  in  a  high  and  healthy  part  of 
the  Midlands,  and  left  for  India  again  in  October. 
I  arrived  in  Calcutta  in  November,  where  I  again 
suffered  from  malarious  symptoms ;  but  I  soon  got 
better,  and  was  attached  to  the  Foreign  Office,  at  my 
own  request,  extra  attache's  being  required  for  the 
Imperial  Assemblage. 

I  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  the  whole  of  that 
gorgeous  pageant,  the  like  of  which  this  generation 


THE   VICEROY'S   GUESTS.  55 

will  probably  never  witness  again,  under  the  most 
favourable  auspices ;  and  though  I  had  on  an 
average  eighteen  hours'  work  out  of  each  twenty- 
four,  I  was  well  repaid  by  being  able  to  take  part 
in  it.  I  met  many  old  friends,  and  also  became 
acquainted  with  Salar  Jung,  Maharajahs  Scindiah  and 
Holkar,  Sir  Dinkur  Rao,  Madhava  Rao,  and  several 
other  now  historical  celebrities.  The  Viceroy's 
reception-tent  at  night  was  a  grand  sight,  filled 
with  gallant  soldiers,  European  and  native,  and 
great  statesmen. 

Among  the  new  arrivals  was  the  Khan  of  Khelat, 
an  intelligent  but  savage-looking  chief,  with  eyes  all 
about  him.  I  was  being  constantly  deputed  to  carry 
polite  messages  from  the  Viceroy  to  different  chiefs 
and  celebrities  and  to  meet  them  at  the  railway 
stations.  Among  those  whom  I  met  were  the  envoy 
from  the  Chief  of  Muscat,  also  the  Siamese  Ambas- 
sador and  his  suite,  a  highly  intelligent  and  sensible 
set  of  men.  I  remember  well  the  rough-and-ready 
way  in  which  the  younger  Siamese  officers  looked 
after  their  luggage  and  effects.  They  were  provided 
with  a  handsome  set  of  tents,  and  all  dined  together 
at  one  table  in  European  fashion,  in  the  most 
civilised  way,  with  the  British  officer  attached  to 
them. 

I  stayed  at  Delhi  till  the  assemblage  broke  up, 
and  after  a  few  days  in  Calcutta  with  the  Foreign 
Office,  went  to  Bombay  to  meet  my  wife,  who,  with 
our  two  boys,  arrived  there  on  February  2  ad.  We 
at  once  set  out  on  our  way  to  Almorah  in  the 
Himalayas,  where  I  was  permitted  to  reside  for  a 
year  and  compile  Foreign  Office  records. 


56  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

We  were  delayed  at  Moradabad  for  a  few  days,  as 
the  passes  were  covered  with  snow.  At  last  we 
started,  and  found  Nynee  Tal  deep  in  snow,  and  the 
lake  frozen.  Next  day  we  marched  across  the  track 
of  an  avalanche,  and  the  following  afternoon  reached 
the  Almorah  Dak  Bungalow,  or  rest  house.  The 
ground  was  covered  with  snow,  and  the  cold  intense, 
the  bungalow  draughty  and  very  uncomfortable. 
After  a  few  days  we  got  into  a  house,  which  Sir 
H.  Ramsey,  who  was  then  out  on  duty  in  the  district, 
had  kindly  taken  for  us,  and  I  dived  deep  into  my 
records,  consisting  of  early  documents  relating  to 
Assam  and  the  Singpho  tribes. 

As  the  weather  grew  warmer,  Almorah  became 
very  pleasant.  I  pined  for  active  work,  but  our  stay 
here  gave  my  wife  experience  in  the  mode  of  life  in 
India,  for  which  she  was  afterwards  very  thankful, 
and  she  obtained  hints  on  housekeeping  subjects 
from  other  ladies,  which  were  a  help  to  her  later  on. 
Life  in  the  Naga  Hills  was  of  course  very  different 
to  what  it  is  in  more  civilised  parts  of  India. 

The  Foreign  Office  had  my  name  down  in  their 
list  for  an  appointment.  I  could  have  gone  to 
Manipur  when  I  landed  in  Calcutta,  but  was  not  well 
enough.  In  July,  I  had  a  telegram  to  say  that 
Lieut.  Durand,  who  had  lately  been  appointed,  was 
ill,  and  must  be  relieved.  Would  I  go  ?  I  at  once 
replied  in  the  affirmative,  and  off  we  started  on 
July  16th.  It  was  very  short  notice,  but  changing 
quarters  at  short  notice  is  part  of  an  Indian  official's 
life,  and  the  prospect  of  work  was  delightful  to  me. 
We  had  a  trying  journey  down  to  Calcutta,  as  the 
rains  had  not  begun  in  the  North-West  Provinces, 


JOURNEY  TO   ASSAM.  57 

and  the  heat  was  tremendous.  However,  we  arrived 
none  the  worse  for  it,  and  stayed  for  a  day  or  two 
with  our  kind  friends,  the  Medlicotts. 

As  Colonel  Keatinge,  the  Chief  Commissioner  of 
Assam,  wished  to  see  me  before  I  went  to  Manipur, 
I  was  ordered  to  join  at  Shillong,  so  we  proceeded 
by  rail  to  G-oalundo,  one  night's  journey  from 
Calcutta,  and  thence  by  river  steamer  to  Chuttuk, 
on  the  Soorma,  where  we  changed  into  country 
boats,  and  proceeded  up  a  smaller  river  and  across 
great  jheels  or  shallow  lakes,  often  passing  for  miles 
through  high  grass  growing  in  the  water,  which 
hid  us  from  everything,  till  we  reached  a  place 
called  Bholagunj,  situated  on  a  river  rapidly  be- 
coming narrower,  where  we  again  changed,  this 
time  into  small  canoes,  the  only  conveyances  that 
could  take  us  up  the  rapids,  with  which  the  river 
abounds. 

From  Chuttuk  we  had  come  through  a  country 
mostly  covered  with  grass  jungle,  twelve  to  fifteen 
feet  in  height ;  now  we  passed  through  forest 
scenery,  very  lovely  fine  trees,  with  festoons  of 
creepers  and  flowers  overhanging  the  stream.  At 
last  we  reached  Thuria  Grhat,  where  the  ascent  of 
the  hills  commenced,  and  there  we  halted  for  the 
night  in  the  Dak  Bungalow,  or  rest  house.  Most 
places  situated  as  Thuria  Ghat  is,  would  be  deadly 
on  account  of  malaria,  but  it  seems  to  be  an  exception, 
and,  as  far  as  I  have  seen,  healthy. 

Knowing  the  servant  difficulties  in  the  province 
of  Assam,  we  had  brought  servants  with  us  from 
Almorah,  men  who  had  implored  us  to  take  them. 
When  I  consented  to  do  so  I  voluntarily  raised 


58  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUR. 

their  wages  from  fifty  to  eighty  per  cent,  above 
what  they  had  been  receiving,  but  with  the  exception 
of  a  Dhobee  (washerman),  and  a  bearer  (a  compound 
of  housemaid  and  valet),  they  all  became  corrupted 
by  the  other  servants  they  met  at  Shillong,  and  who 
spoke  of  Manipur  in  very  disparaging  terms,  so 
before  going  farther  I  let  them  go,  as  they  demanded 
an  enormous  increase  of  wages. 

The  Dhobee  Nunnoo,  and  the  bearer  Horna,  stuck 
to  me  to  the  very  last,  and  proved  admirable  ser- 
vants. It  was  fortunate  that  we  had  servants,  as 
there  were  none  at  Thuria  Ghat  rest  house ;  as  it 
was,  we  managed  very  well,  and  were  prepared  to 
march  in  the  morning  before  the  coolies  were  ready 
to  take  up  our  luggage.  We  had  a  tiring  march  up 
the  hill  to  Cherra  Poojee ;  my  wife  and  the  children 
were  in  baskets  on  men's  backs,  but  I  was  on  foot 
and  felt  the  march  in  the  intense  heat  to  be  very 
fatiguing,  though  we  halted  to  rest  half-way.  How- 
ever, when  we  reached  the  plateau  of  Cherra  Poojee, 
4000  feet  above  Thuria  Ghat,  the  cool  air  speedily 
set  me  right,  and  we  all  enjoyed  the  scenery,  hills, 
plains,  waterfalls  in  abundance,  deep  valleys,  and 
the  lowlands  of  Sylhet,  covered  with  water,  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  We  had  a  comfortable 
bungalow  to  rest  in,  and  a  cool  night  at  last. 

Next  day  we  marched  to  Moflung,  6000  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  then  to  Shillong,  where  for  the  next  few 
days  we  were  hospitably  entertained  by  the  Chief 
Commissioner,  Colonel  (now  General)  Keatinge, 
V.C.,  C.S.I.,  who  kindly  sent  a  carriage  to  meet  us 
on  the  road.  As  Colonel  Keatinge  wished  me  to 
remain  at  Shillong  for  a  time,  and  meet  Mr.  Carnegy, 


COLONEL  McCULLOCH.  59 

political  officer  in  the  Naga  Hills,  who  was  coming 
there  later  on,  I  arranged  to  stay,  and  took  a  house ; 
so  we  settled  down  comfortably  till  the  early  part  of 
October — a  very  pleasant  arrangement  for  us  instead 
of  facing  the  intense  heat  of  the  Cachar  Valley  in 
August.  It  gave  me  a  good  opportunity  of  looking 
over  the  records  of  the  Chief  Commissioner's  office, 
where  I  found  much  relating  to  Manipur,  but  I  fear 
that  it  was  lost  when  the  Record  Office  was  burnt 
down  some  years  ago,  the  copies  also  having  been 
destroyed  in  Manipur  during  the  rebellion  of  1891. 
At  last  the  day  for  leaving  came,  and  we  packed  up 
our  things  and  prepared  once  more  to  set  off  on  our 
travels. 

Before  leaving,  I  paid  several  visits  to  Colonel 
McCulloch,  who,  since  retiring  from  the  service,  had 
established  himself  at  Shillong,  and  asked  his  advice 
on  many  points,  and  learned  much  from  him  regard- 
ing Manipur.  He  very  kindly  gave  his  opinion 
freely  on  all  questions,  telling  me  where  some  of  my 
predecessors  had  failed,  and  pointing  out  the  pitfalls 
to  be  avoided.  He  added  to  all  his  kindness  by 
writing  to  the  Maharajah,  and  telling  him  that,  from 
what  he  had  seen  of  me,  he  was  sure  it  would  be  his 
fault  if  we  did  not  get  on  together. 


60  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Start  for  Manipur — March  over  the  hills — Lovely  scenery — View  of  the 
valleys — State  reception — The  Residency — Visitors. 

LOWREMBA  SUBADAR,  an  excellent  old  fellow,  formerly 
in  the  service  of  Colonel  McCulloch,  was  sent  to 
Shillong  to  be  in  attendance  on  rne,  and  of  course  to 
find  out  all  he  could  about  me  and  report  the  result. 
Before  I  left,  he  sent  a  note  to  the  Maharajah  of  my 
requirements  in  the  way  of  coolies,  etc.,  for  our  long 
journey  of  ten  days  between  Cachar  and  Manipur, 
and  I  also  intimated  that,  as  the  representative  of  the 
British  Government,  and  as  one  who  well  knew 
what  was  due  to  me  as  such,  I  should  expect  to  be 
received  with  proper  ceremony. 

This  was  a  point  on  which  I  laid  much  stress,  as 
my  experience  had  taught  me  that  in  a  native  state 
so  tenacious  of  its  dignity  and  ancient  customs  as 
Manipur,  my  future  success  depended  in  a  great 
measure  on  my  scrupulously  requiring  all  that  I  was 
entitled  to,  and  as  much  more  as  I  could  get.  It 
had  been  a  complaint  against  one  of  my  predecessors 
that  he  had  been  discourteous,  and  I  determined  that 
the  Manipuris  should  not  have  to  complain  of  me  on 
that  score,  and  in  my  letters  I  took  care  to  be  as 
courteous  and  considerate  as  possible. 


FROM   SHILLONG  TO   CACHAE.  61 

On  former  occasions  it  had  been  the  custom  for  a 
new  political  agent  to  enter  the  capital  unattended, 
and  to  call  on  the  Maharajah  the  next  day,  the  latter 
repaying  the  visit  a  day  later.  This  I  did  not  con- 
sider sufficient,  and  I  determined  that  he  should  come 
out  to  meet  me  in  state.  When  Colonel  McCulloch 
returned  to  Manipur  the  second  time,  this  had  been 
done,  Colonel  McCulloch  being  an  old  and  intimate 
friend  of  the  Maharajah.  I  quoted  this  as  a  pre- 
cedent. I  tried  in  vain  to  get  the  Foreign  Depart- 
ment to  back  up  my  request,  but  could  not  induce 
them  to  interfere  on  my  behalf,  so  I  took  the 
responsibility  on  myself,  and  sent  a  formal  demand 
to  the  Maharajah  to  send  a  high  officer — a  major 
commanding  a  regiment — to  meet  me  on  the  road, 
and  to  meet  me  himself  in  state  at  a  suitable  distance 
from  the  capital.  The  result  will  be  described. 

All  being  ready  we  left  Shillong,  my  wife,  nurse 
and  children  on  men's  backs  as  before,  for  Cherra 
Poojee,  where  we  arrived  the  second  day;  thence,  on 
the  third  day,  we  went  to  Thuria  Ghat,  on  by  boat 
vid  Bholagunj,  to  Sylhet  and  Cachar.  We  reached 
Cachar  on  October  17th,  after  passing  the  historical 
fort  of  Budderpore,  where  a  battle  was  fought  with 
the  Burmese  in  1825,  and  settled  down  in  the 
bungalow  of  our  kind  friend  Major  Boyd  who  was 
away.  Our  coolies  arrived  on  October  18th,  and  we 
again  packed  our  things  and  prepared  to  depart  on 
our  final  march. 

We  left  Cachar  for  Manipur  on  October  20th,  my 
wife  and  the  nurse  and  boys  in  "  doolies,"  a  kind  of 
tray  four  feet  long  by  two  in  width,  with  sides  and 
ends  eight  inches  in  height,  supported  by  two  long 


62  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUR. 

poles  running  along  the  bottom  of  each  side,  and 
slung  at  each  end  to  loose  oars  of  wood  carried  on 
men's  shoulders.  The  passenger  sits  inside  as  best 
he  can,  and  there  is  a  light  matting  roof  thrown  over 
to  protect  him  from  the  weather.  To  begin  with,  it 
is  an  uncomfortable  and  shaky  conveyance,  but  in 
time  one  gets  accustomed  to  it. 

Our  baggage  was  carried  mostly  on  men's  backs, 
each  load  varying  from  sixty  to  seventy  pounds  in 
weight.  Altogether  we  had,  I  daresay,  one  hundred 
coolies,  as  everything  we  required  for  a  ten  days' 
journey  had  to  be  carried,  in  addition  to  personal 
baggage  and  stores  for  our  use  on  arrival.  I  had 
provided  a  tent  in  case  of  need,  but  did  not  use  it, 
as  rude  huts  were  provided  for  us  at  all  the  stages 
along  the  road.  Our  first  halt  was  at  Luckipore,  in 
British  territory,  and,  as  usual,  the  first  march  was  the 
most  trying ;  for  servants,  coolies,  etc.,  have  to  learn 
each  other's  ways.  I  had  an  escort  of  one  hundred 
men  of  the  35th  Native  Infantry,  under  a  subadar, 
as  it  was  expected  that  I  might  have  to  go  on  an 
expedition  soon  after  my  arrival,  and  these  men 
had  their  own  special  coolies,  so  we  were  a  large 
party  altogether. 

We  halted  at  Luckipore,  as  I  have  said,  a  few 
miles  from  the  Hoorung  Hills  and  at  Jeree  Ghat. 
Next  day  we  left  British  territory  and  entered  Mani- 
pur,  where  we  found  some  huts  built  for  our  accom- 
modation. At  Jeree  Ghat  the  really  interesting  part 
of  the  journey  commenced ;  thence,  till  Bissenpore 
in  the  valley  of  Manipur  is  reached,  the  traveller 
marches  day  after  day  over  hills  and  across  rivers. 
The  first  day  from  Jeree  Ghat  we  crossed  the  Noon- 


FEOM  CACHAR  TO  MANIPUR.  63 

jai-bang  range,  the  summit  of  which  is  1800  to  1900 
feet  above  the  sea  from  whence  a  fine  view  of  the 
next  range,  Kala  Naga  or  in  Manipuri,  Wy-nang- 
nong,  is  obtained.  The  road  which  was  made  under 
the  superintendence  of  Captain  (afterwards  Colonel) 
Guthrie,  of  the  Bengal  Engineers  between  1837  and 
1844,  at  the  joint  expense  of  the  British  and  Manipuri 
Governments,  the  former  paying  the  larger  share, 
was  excellent  for  foot  passengers  and  pack  animals, 
but  not  wide  enough  and  too  steep  for  wheeled 
traffic  on  a  large  scale. 

After  descending  from  Noong-jai-bang  we  halted 
on  the  banks  of  the  Mukker  river  amidst  splendid 
forest,  and  next  day  ascended  the  Kala  Naga  range 
and  halted  on  the  crest  close  to  a  Manipuri  guard 
house  at  a  height  of  3400  feet. 

From  this  spot  a  magnificent  view  of  the  plains  of 
Cachar  is  obtained,  and  in  fine  weather,  far  beyond 
them  the  Kasia  hills  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cherra 
Poojee  may  be  descried.  The  scene  at  sunset  is 
sometimes  magnificent.  In  the  foreground  the  dark 
forests,  and  in  the  far  distance  a  huge  bank  of  golden 
clouds  with  their  reflection  in  the  watery  plain,  and 
a  mingled  mass  of  colours,  green  fields,  purple, 
crimson,  red  and  gold,  all  mixed  up  in  such  a  way  as 
no  painter  would  ever  attempt  to  copy.  As  the  sun 
sinks  those  colours  change  and  re-arrange  themselves 
every  minute  in  quick  succession,  and  when  at  last 
night  closes  in,  the  impression  left  on  the  mind  is 
one  of  never-ending  wonder  and  admiration. 

From  Kala  Naga  to  the  Barak  river  is  a  very 
stiff  descent,  calculated  to  shake  the  knees  of  an  in- 
experienced hill-walker,  and  many  is  the  toe-nail  lost 


64  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

by  the  pressure  of  one's  boots.  Here  as  at  the 
Mukker  and  other  rivers  farther  on,  the  Barak  is 
crossed  by  cane  suspension  bridges,  which  vibrate 
and  move  at  every  step.  In  the  dry  season  these 
rivers  are  crossed  by  very  cleverly  constructed  bamboo 
pontoon  bridges,  but  when  the  rainy  season  has  com- 
menced, they  become  raging  torrents,  which  nothing 
but  a  fish  could  live  in,  and  but  for  the  suspension 
bridges,  all  communication  with  the  outer  world 
would  be  cut  off.  The  bridge  over  the  Eerung 
river  was  one  hundred  yards  in  length,  and  like  all 
the  others,  was,  when  I  first  went  to  Manipur,  con- 
structed entirely  of  cane  and  bamboo,  and  could  by 
great  exertions,  be  finished  in  three  days.  During 
my  period  of  office,  wire  ropes  were  substituted  for 
the  two  main  cables  on  which  all  rested,  and  the 
strength  of  the  bridges  greatly  increased  thereby. 
It  was  an  important  part  of  my  duty  to  see  that  both 
roads  and  bridges  were  kept  in  order. 

Our  march  was  interesting  but  uneventful.  We 
started  after  breakfast  and  generally  reached  our 
halting  place  in  time  for  a  late  luncheon  or  afternoon 
tea.  Wherever  we  halted  we  had  a  hut  to  live  in, 
generally  in  some  picturesque  spot,  one  day  giving  a 
splendid  view  of  hill  and  valley  with  nothing  but 
forests  in  view,  on  another  we  were  perched  on  a 
hill  overlooking  the  beautiful  Kowpoom  valley,  a 
sheet  of  cultivation.  At  last,  on  the  ninth  day  after 
crossing  the  Lai-metol  river,  and  ascending  the  Lai- 
metol,  we  had  our  first  view  of  the  valley  of  Manipur* 
spread  out  like  a  huge  map  at  our  feet.  Seen  as  it 
was  by  us  at  the  end  of  the  rainy  season,  and  from  a 

*  The  name  means  beautiful  garden. — ED. 


BEAUTIFUL    SCENEKY.  65 

height  of  2600  feet  above  it,  is  a  vast  expanse 
of  flat  land  bordered  by  hills,  and  mostly  covered 
with  water,  through  which  the  rice  crops  are 
vigorously  growing.  To  the  south  the  Logtak 
lake  is  visible,  with  several  island  hills  in  it, 
while  far  away  to  the  north-east  might  be  seen 
the  glittering  roofs  of  the  temples  of  Imphal,  the 
capital.  It  requires  time  to  take  in  the  view  and  to 
appreciate  it.  In  the  dry  season  it  looks  very 
different  with  brown,  dried-up  hills  in  the  place  of 
green. 

The  valley  of  Manipur  possesses  a  few  sacred  groves, 
left,  according  to  the  universal  aboriginal  custom, 
throughout  all  parts  of  India  that  I  have  visited,  for 
the  wood  spirits,  when  the  land  was  first  cleared  ;  but 
no  natural  forest.  These  groves  are  little  isolated 
patches  of  forest  dotted  here  and  there  ;  the  villages 
have  plenty  of  planted  trees,  many  of  great  antiquity, 
and  from  the  heights  above  they  have  the  appearance 
of  woodland  covered  with  grass.  Besides  this,  all 
is  one  sheet  of  cultivation  or  waste  covered  with 
grass.  It  was  once  entirely  cultivated,  that  is,  before 
the  Burmese  invasion  of  1819,  when  the  population 
of  the  valley,  was  from  500  to  1000  per  square 
mile. 

We  halted  to  rest  on  the  summit  of  the  Lai-metol, 
and  then  descended,  passing  sometimes  under  a  kind 
of  wild  apple  tree  with  very  eatable  fruit,  and 
once  through  a  lovely  grove  of  oak  trees,  called 
"  Oui-ong-Moklung,"  and  then,  still  far  below  us, 
saw  some  elephants  sent  for  us  by  the  Maharajah. 
These  elephants  were  posted  at  Sebok  Tannah,*  a 

*  Tannah  means  outpost. — ED. 

F 


66  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUB. 

police  station  where  the  ground  begins  to  grow  level, 
and  a  mile  farther  brought  us  to  Bissenpore,  where 
there  was  a  rude  rest  house.  Here  we  halted  for  the 
night. 

I  have  mentioned  my  demand  that  I  should  be  met 
with  proper  ceremony.  It  was  of  course  stoutly  re- 
sisted, every  argument  founded  on  old  custom,  etc., 
being  used  against  it.  However,  I  stood  firm,  and 
absolutely  refused  to  go  beyond  Bissenpore,  till  the 
Maharajah  gave  me  an  assurance  that  he  would  do 
all  I  required.  In  the  end  he  gave  in,  and  a  day 
before  reaching  that  place,  his  uncle  met  me  on  the 
road  with  a  letter  saying  that  all  should  be  done  as  I 
wished.  This  official,  by  name  Samoo  Major,  became 
a  great  friend  of  mine,  and  remained  so  till  I  finally 
left ;  he  is,  alas,  I  believe,  now  a  prisoner  in  the 
Andamans,  having  been  supposed  to  be  implicated  in 
the  rising  in  1891. 

The  next  day  we  left  Bissenpore  in  good  time,  and 
marched  the  seventeen  miles  to  the  capital,  halting 
half-way  at  Phoiching,  where  I  was  met  by  some 
officials.  Farther  on,  some  of  still  higher  rank  came 
to  greet  me,  and  finally,  at  the  entrance  to  the  capital, 
I  was  met  by  the  Maharajah  himself,  surrounded  by 
all  his  sons.  A  carpet  was  spread  with  chairs  for 
him  and  myself,  we  both  of  us  having  descended 
from  our  elephants,  advanced  and  met  in  the  centre 
of  the  carpet,  and  having  made  our  salutations  (a 
salute  of  eleven  guns  was  fired  in  my  honour),  we  sat 
and  talked  for  two  minutes.  We  then  mounted,  the 
Maharajah's  elephant  being  driven  by  his  third  son, 
the  master  of  the  elephants ;  and  we  rode  together 
through  the  great  bazaar,  till  our  roads  diverged  at 


THE  OLD  EESIDENCY.  67 

the  entrance  to  the  fortified  enclosure  to  the  palace, 
where  we  took  leave  of  each  other,  and  he  went 
home,  and  I  went  to  the  Residency,  which  I  reached 
at  four  o'clock,  my  wife  and  children  having  made  a 
short  cut. 

The  Residency  then  was  a  low  and  dark  bungalow 
built  of  wattle  and  daub,  and  thatched.  It  had  one 
large  room  in  the  centre,  and  a  bedroom  on  either 
side  with  a  small  semicircular  room  in  front  and 
rear  of  the  centre  room ;  there  was  one  bathroom  (I 
speedily  added  more),  and  verandahs  nearly  all 
round.  There  were  Venetians  to  the  windows,  but 
no  glass,  and  the  house  was  very  dark  and  very  full 
of  mosquitoes.  However,  all  had  been  done  by  the 
Residency  establishment  to  make  the  place  comfort- 
able, and  we  were  too  old  travellers  and  too  accus- 
tomed to  rough  it,  to  grumble.  The  house  might  be 
rude  and  uncomfortable,  but  some  of  my  happiest 
days  were  spent  in  it.  The  building  was  at  the  end 
of  a  garden,  with  some  nice  mango,  and  other  trees 
here  and  there,  and  had  a  little  more  ground  attached 
to  it,  but  we  were  on  all  sides  surrounded  by  squalid 
villages  and  filthy  tanks  and  cesspools,  and  the 
situation  was  very  low,  though  well  drained.  Our 
English  nurse  grumbled  incessantly,  but  we  had 
engaged  in  advance,  a  nice  pleasant  Naga  woman, 
named  Chowkee,  to  help  her,  and  soon  made  every- 
thing right  for  the  night,  but  the  mosquitoes  were 
terrible,  and  though  my  life  has  been  spent  in 
countries  swarming  with  them,  I  give  Manipur  the 
palm,  it  beats  all  others ! 

No  European  lady  or  children  of  pure  blood  had 
ever  before  been  seen  in  Manipur,  and  at  first  there 

F  2 


GS  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

was  great  excitement  wherever  we  went,  all  the 
population  turning  out  to  look  at  us.  By  degrees 
they  became  accustomed  to  the  novelty,  but  still 
occasionally  people  from  distant  villages  corning  to 
the  capital  stopped  to  stare.  Every  now  and  then 
my  wife  had  visits  from  strange  old  ladies,  often 
from  the  Kola  Eanee,  the  widow  of  the  last  Rajah  of 
Assam,  and  by  birth  a  Manipuri  princess,  daughter 
of  Rajah  Chomjeet,  and  first  cousin  of  the  Maharajah 
Chandra  Kirtee  Singh.  Once  an  old  woman  of  106 
years  of  age,  with  a  daughter  of  76,  were  visitors, 
and  once  or  twice  some  other  relic  of  a  bygone  age 
called  on  us.  Among  the  latter  was  old  Ram  Singh, 
the  last  survivor  of  Wilcox's  famous  survey  expedi- 
tions in  Assam,  in  1825-26-27-28.  Wilcox  was 
one  of  the  giants  of  old,  men  who  with  limited 
resources,  did  a  vast  amount  of  work  among  wild 
people,  and  said  little  about  it,  being  contented 
with  doing  their  duty.  In  1828,  accompanied  by 
Lieutenant  Burton,  and  ten  men  belonging  to  the 
Stidya  Khamptis  (Shans),  he  penetrated  to  the 
Bor  Khamptis  country,  far  beyond  our  borders,  an 
exploit  not  repeated  till  after  our  annexation  of 
Upper  Burmah.  Ram  Singh  had  a  great  respect 
for  his  former  leader,  and  loved  to  talk  of  old  days. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Visit   to   the    Maharajah — His    minister — Former  revolutions — 
Thangal  Major. 

AFTER  a  day's  rest  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  Maharajah, 
having  first  stipulated  as  to  my  proper  reception.  I 
was  received  by  the  Jubraj  (heir  apparent)  at  the 
entrance  to  the  private  part  of  the  palace,  and  by 
the  Maharajah  a  few  paces  from  the  entrance  to  the 
Durbar  room  (hall  of  reception),  and  conducted  by 
him  to  a  seat  opposite  to  his  own,  with  a  table 
between  us,  his  sons  and  officials  being  seated  on 
either  side.  I  read  the  Viceroy's  letter,  informing 
the  Maharajah  of  my  appointment,  and,  after  a  short 
conversation,  during  which  my  age  was  asked  (a 
question  invariably  put  to  European  officers  by 
Manipuris  of  rank),  I  took  my  leave,  and  was 
escorted  back  to  the  place  where  I  was  met  on  my 
arrival.  I  was  favourably  impressed  by  what  I  saw, 
but  I  at  once  realised  that  I  was  on  no  bed  of  roses, 
and  that  I  would  have  to  make  a  good  fight  to 
obtain  and  maintain  my  just  influence  with  the  Dur- 
bar. The  Maharajah  had  undoubtedly  grievances 
against  us,  and  I  felt  that  it  was  folly  and  injustice 
not  to  acknowledge  these.  At  the  same  time,  he 
and  his  ministers  had  on  some  occasions  taken 
advantage  of  this  state  of  affairs  to  behave  in  an 


70  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

unseemly  way,  and  for  this  a  sharp  rebuke  had  to  be 
administered.  The  natural  sense  of  injustice  is 
strong  in  mankind,  and  I  saw  that  chafing  under 
slights  they  had  received,  and  often  magnifying 
them,  it  was  necessary  for  me  first  to  acknowledge 
these,  and  try  as  far  as  possible  to  make  amends,  and 
then  to  come  down  on  them  very  sharply  for  having 
forgotten  their  position. 

The  Maharajah  returned  my  visit,  and  we  had  one 
or  two  interviews  when  we  discussed  affairs.  I 
pointed  out  the  extreme  gravity  of  resisting  the 
British  Government  in  any  way,  and  we  soon 
became  very  friendly.  Colonel  McCulloch's  intro- 
duction had  been  a  great  advantage  to  me,  and 
every  one  was  inclined  to  give  me  credit  for  good 
intentions,  at  the  same  time  that  every  effort  was 
made  to  restrict  my  authority  and  influence. 

The  Maharajah  was  a  rather  thick-set  man  of 
about  five  feet  five  inches  in  height  and  forty-five 
years  of  age.  In  India  he  would  have  been  called 
fair.  He  had  the  features  of  the  Indo-Chinese  race, 
and  the  impassive  face  that  generally  goes  with 
them,  but  which  is  often  not  so  marked  in  the  Mani- 
puris.  He  was  far  the  ablest  man  in  his  dominions, 
and  a  strong  and  capable  ruler.  He  had  a  great 
taste  for  mechanical  arts  of  all  kinds,  and  a  vast  fund 
of  information  which  he  had  acquired  by  questioning, 
for  he  questioned  every  one  he  met.  English  scien- 
tific works  were  explained  to  him,  and  his  researches 
extended  even  to  the  anatomy  of  the  human  body,  of 
which  he  had  a  very  fair  knowledge.  He  had  a 
taste  for  European  articles,  and  owned  a  large 
assortment.  He  had  glass  manufactured  in  his 


THE  EOYAL  FAMILY.  71 

workshops,  and  once  sent  me  a  petroleum  lamp, 
every  portion  of  which  was  made  by  his  own  arti- 
ficers. His  rule,  for  such  a  strong  man,  was  mild 
as  compared  with  that  of  his  predecessors,  and  he 
thoroughly  realised  that  his  prosperity  depended  on 
his  loyalty  to  the  British  Government.  At  the  same 
time,  he  was  most  tenacious  of  his  rights,  and  earnestly 
desired  to  preserve  his  country  intact,  and  to  give  us 
no  excuse  for  annexing  it. 

The  fear  of  tempting  us  to  annex  was  so  great 
that,  once  when  I  thought  of  growing  a  little  tea  for 
my  own  consumption,  he  was  much  agitated.  I,  as  a 
matter  of  courtesy,  first  sent  to  ask  him  if  he  had 
any  objection  to  my  growing  a  little,  and,  in  reply, 
he  sent  an  official  to  beg  me  not  to  think  of  it. 
This  man  said,  "  The  Maharajah  will  supply  you 
with  all  the  tea  you  want  free  of  cost,  but  begs  you 
not  to  think  of  growing  it."  The  officer  went  on  to 
explain,  that  it  was  feared  that,  if  I  successfully 
demonstrated  that  tea  could  be  grown  in  Manipur 
tea  planters  would  come  up,  and  there  would  be  a 
cry  for  annexation !  Certainly  our  annexation  of 
the  Muttuk  country  in  1840  justified  the  suspicion, 
and  we  cannot  blame  people  for  having  long 
memories. 

The  Jubraj,  or  heir  apparent,  was  an  amiable 
young  man  of  twenty-six  or  twenty-seven,  with  a 
pleasant  smile  which  was  wanting  in  his  father.  He 
was  of  a  weak  character,  although  possessing  some 
ability.  Like  his  father,  he  could  speak  Hindoo- 
stani,  but  both  were  ignorant  of  English.  Backed 
up  and  influenced  by  an  honest  and  capable  Political 
Ag^nt,  he  would  probably  have  made  an  excellent 


72  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

ruler,  and,  had  we  done  our  duty  by  him,  he  might 
now  be  at  the  head  of  a  flourishing  little  state, 
instead  of  having  died  an  exile  in  Calcutta. 

The  next  son,  TVankai  Rakpar,  afterwards  known 
as  the  "  Regent "  during  the  recent  troubles,  was  an 
ignorant,  uncouth  boor,  who  knew  no  language  but 
his  own,  and  was  quite  unfitted  for  any  responsible 
work ;  he  took  little  part  in  public  affairs.  The 
third  known  as  Samoo  Henjaba  (Master  of  the 
Elephants),  was  a  clever,  pleasant,  sensible  young 
man,  said  by  Thangal  Major,  no  mean  judge 
of  character,  to  be  the  ablest  of  the  ten  sons 
of  the  Maharajah.  He  died  during  my  tenure  of 
office. 

The  fourth  son,  Kotwal  Koireng,  who  afterwards 
acquired  an  infamous  reputation  as  the  "  Senaput- 
tee,"  was  always  a  bad  character,  cruel,  coarse,  and 
low  minded.  From  early  childhood  he  was  given 
to  foul  language,  and  was  absolutely  dangerous  when 
he  grew  up.  His  mother  had  been  unfaithful  to  the 
Maharajah,  who  used  to  say  that  the  son  was  worthy 
of  her.  Colonel  McCulloch  had  always  disliked  him 
as  a  boy. 

None  of  the  other  six  sons  of  the  Maharajah  were 
in  my  time  mixed  up  in  public  affairs,  so  I  need  not 
describe  them,  except  that  Pucca  Senna  was  the 
champion  polo  player,  though  not  otherwise  worthy 
of  notice.  The  practical  ministers  were  Bularam 
Singh,  or  Sawai  Jamba  Major,  and  Thangal  Major. 
They  were  both  faithful  adherents  of  the  Maharajah, 
although  the  first  who  had  once  had  much  influence 
had  married  the  daughter  of  the  former  Rajah  Nur 
Sing.  He  was  nominally  the  first  in  rank,  but 


PALACE  REVOLUTIONS.  73 

Thangal  Major  was  rapidly  gaining  ground,  and 
viewed  with  increasing  favour  by  the  Maharajah. 

I  quote  the  following  description  of  the  Govern- 
ment of  Manipur  from  an  article  I  wrote  for  The 
Nineteenth  Century,  by  kind  permission  of  the 
editor.  "  The  government  of  Manipur  has  always 
been  a  pure  despotism  tempered  by  assassination  and 
revolution.  While  he  occupies  the  throne  the  rajah 
is  perfectly  absolute.  A  minister  may  be  all  power- 
ful, and  all  the  princes  and  people  may  tremble 
before  him ;  for  years  he  may  practically  rule  the 
rajah  ;  but  he  is  after  all  a  cipher  before  his  sove- 
reign, a  single  word  from  whom  may  send  him  into 
exile,  make  him  an  outcast,  or  reduce  him  to  the 
lowest  rank.  Yet  with  all  this  power  an  obscure 
man  may  suddenly  spring  up,  as  if  from  the  ground, 
to  assert  himself  to  be  of  the  blood  royal,  and 
gathering  a  large  party  round  him  place  himself  on 
the  throne.  All  this  happened  not  unfrequently  in 
days  gone  by,  when  many  were  the  rajahs  murdered 
or  deposed.  History  tells  us  of  rajahs  being  deposed, 
re-elected,  and  deposed  again." 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  in  old  days  the  people 
benefited  by  the  system  of  constant  revolutions,  as 
a  rajah  was  obliged  to  keep  in  touch  with  his 
subjects  if  he  wished  to  occupy  the  throne  for  any 
length  of  time,  and  many  concessions  were  made  to 
gain  a  strong  following.  The  average  intelligence 
of  the  Manipuris  being  higher  than  that  found 
among  the  cultivators  of  many  other  native  states, 
the  people  knew  what  reforms  to  ask  for,  and  often 
insisted  on  their  being  granted. 

Nothing  can  be  harder  on  the  people  of  a  native 


74  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

state,  than  for  the  paramount  power  to  hold  a  ruler 
on  the  throne  with  a  firm  grasp,  and  protect  him 
against  internal  revolution,  and  at  the  same  time  to 
refrain  from  insisting  on  needful  reform. 

Chandra  Kirtee  Singh's  long  reign  and  strong 
government,  were  in  many  ways  a  great  benefit  to 
the  people,  because  he  was  a  man  of  sound  sense, 
and  though  selfish  and  unscrupulous,  naturally  of  a 
kindly  disposition,  a  fact  proved  by  the  few  execu- 
tions that  took  place  in  his  reign.  In  his  earlier 
years  he  had  the  benefit  of  Colonel  McCulloch's 
good  advice,  enforced  by  his  great  influence.  All 
the  Fame  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  a  little  more 
interference  judiciously  applied,  would  have  vastly 
improved  the  state  of  affairs  during  the  time  he  occu- 
pied the  throne.  Of  course  an  individual  Political 
Agent  might  bring  about  improvements  in  the 
administration,  but  these  all  rested  on  his  personal 
influence  and  lasted  only  while  he  remained.  Had 
the  Government  of  India  stepped  in  and  exerted  its 
authority  they  would  have  been  permanent. 

Bularam  Singh  was  a  typical  Manipuri  in  face 
and  had  good  manners,  but  he  had  no  force  of 
character,  and  gradually  yielded  to  his  more  able 
colleague.  He  was  generally  known  as  the  Toolee- 
Hel  major,  i.e.,,  the  major  or  commander  of  the  Hel 
regiment. 

Thangal  Major  was  a  remarkable  character,  and 
had  a  chequered  history.  His  uncle  had  saved  the 
life  of  Rajah  Grhumbeer  Singh  (Chandra  Kirtee 
Singh's  father),  then  a  child,  when  his  older  brother 
Marjeet  attempted  the  murder  of  all  his  relations. 
Thangal  Major  was  one  of  the  props  of  the  throne 


THANGAL  MAJOK.  75 

when  Ghumbeer  Singh  ascended  it.  He  had  been 
introduced  at  Court  at  an  early  age,  and  accom- 
panied the  Rajah  in  an  expedition  against  the  village 
of  Thangal  inhabited  by  a  tribe  of  Nagas.  He  was 
given  the  name  Thangal  in  memory  of  the  event. 
He  accompanied  the  old  Ranee  with  her  infant  son 
Chandra  Kirtee  Singh  into  exile,  when  she  fled 
after  attempting  the  Regent  Nursing's  life  while  he 
was  engaged  in  worship  in  the  temple  of  Govindjee 
in  1844;  had  stayed  with  him  and  carefully  watched 
over  his  childhood  and  youth.  When  in  1850  the 
voung  Rajah  came  to  Manipur  to  assert  his  rights, 
Thangal  accompanied  him  and  greatly  contributed 
to  his  success.  This  naturally  made  him  a  favourite, 
and  his  bold,  active,  energetic  character  always 
brought  him  to  the  front  when  hard  or  dangerous 
work  had  to  be  done.  For  a  time  he  fell  into  dis- 
favour, but  Colonel  McCulloch,  recognising  his 
strong  and  useful  qualities,  and  the  fact  that  he  was 
an  exceedingly  able  man,  interceded  for  him  with 
the  Maharajah,  and  he  again  came  to  the  front.  In 
person  ho  was  short  and  thickset,  darker  than  the 
average  of  Manipuris,  with  piercing  eyes  and  rather 
a  prominent  nose,  a  pleasant  and  straightforward 
but  abrupt  manner,  and,  though  a  very  devoted  and 
patriotic  Manipuri,  was  extremely  partial  to  Euro- 
peans. He  knew  our  ways  well,  and  soon  took 
a  man's  measure.  He  was  acquainted  with  every 
part  of  Manipur,  and,  though  ignorant  of  English, 
could  point  out  any  village  in  the  state,  on  an  English 
map.  In  fact,  he  had  studied  geography  in  every 
branch  to  enable  him  to  defend  the  cause  of  Manipur 
against  the  survey  officers  who  were  suspected  by 


76  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

the  Manipnris  of  wishing  to  include  all  they  could 
within  British  territory.  He  knew  all  our  technical 
terms  such  as  "  watershed "  in  English,  and  had 
gained  much  credit  for  enabling  the  survey  to  carry 
on  their  work  in  1872,  when  the  patriotic  but  ill- 
judged  zeal  of  an  older  officer,  Eooma  Singh,  nearly 
brought  about  a  rupture.  Thangal  Major's  know- 
ledge of  us  and  our  customs,  as  well  as  of  our  moral 
code,  was  astonishing.  He  realised  the  power  of  the 
British  Government,  and  though  he  would  resist  us 
to  the  utmost  in  the  interests  of  Manipur,  nothing 
would  have  induced  him  to  join  in  any  plot  against 
our  rule  in  India.  When  I  say  that  he  was  un- 
scrupulous and  capable  of  anything,  T  only  say  that 
he  was  what  circumstances  and  education  had  made 
him,  and  would  make  any  man  under  similar  con- 
ditions. He  had  not  the  polish  of  a  native  of 
Western  India,  and  had  not  had  the  advantage  of 
English  training  that  many  ministers  in  other  states 
have.  The  internal  administration  of  Manipur  had 
never  been  interfered  with  by  us,  and  Thangal 
Major  was  the  strong  able  man  of  the  old  type.  A 
strong  and  capable  political  agent  might  do  well 
with  him,  but  a  weak  one  would  soon  go  to  the  wall. 
He  commanded  the  Toolee  Nehah,  and  was  often 
called  by  that  title,  but  was  better  known  as  Thangal 
Major. 

One  of  my  predecessors  had  quarrelled  with 
Thangal  Major,  and  this  had  led  to  recrimination, 
and  very  unseemly  conduct  on  the  part  of  the 
Durbar.  This  conduct  I  had  rebuked  as  directed, 
but  it  was  a  question  as  to  how  Thangal  Major  was 
to  be  dealt  with.  I  was  authorised  to  demand  his 


A   REBUKE.  77 

dismissal  from  office,  and  for  some  time  he  had  not 
been  received  by  my  two  immediate  predecessors.  I 
made  careful  inquiries,  and  feeling  convinced  that 
there  was  a  good  deal  to  be  said  on  Thangal's  side, 
and  that  by  careful  management  I  should  be  able  to 
keep  him  well  in  hand,  I  sent  for  him.  The  old 
man,  he  was  then  sixty,  having  been  born  in  1817, 
came  in  a  quiet  unostentatious  way,  and  after  a 
severe  rebuke,  and  receiving  an  ample  apology  from 
him,  I  forgave  him,  and  restored  him  to  the  position 
of  minister  in  attendance  upon  me ;  and  thenceforth 
I  saw  him  daity,  generally  for  an  hour  or  two. 

In  addition  to  the  Minister,  two  Subadars,  Low- 
remba  and  Moirang,  were  placed  in  attendance  on 
me,  but  as  time  went  on,  and  I  and  the  Durbar  be- 
came friends,  we  transacted  business  in  a  friendly 
way,  through  any  one. 


78  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MAN1PUR. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Manipur — Early  history — Our  connection  with  it — Ghumbeer  Singh — 
Burmese  war. 

MANIPUR  consists  of  about  8000  square  miles,  chiefly 
hills  surrounding  a  valley  650  square  miles  in 
extent.  This  valley  from  north  to  south  is 
about  35  miles,  and  from  east  to  west  25.  The 
capital  Imphal,  as  it  formerly  existed,  was  a  large 
mass  of  villages  looking  like  a  forest  from  the 
neighbouring  heights,  arid  covering  about  15 
square  miles.  Every  house  was  in  the  centre  of  its 
own  well-planted  garden,  and  every  garden  con- 
tained a  few  forest  trees.  The  census  of  1881  gave 
the  population  of  the  capital  as  60,000,  that  of  the 
rest  of  the  valley  an  equal  number,  while  the  hills 
were  estimated  to  have  100,000.  It  was  only  in 
the  capital  that  pure  Manipuris  lived,  except  the 
soldiers  in  the  military  posts  which  were  scattered 
all  over  the  country. 

The  valley  itself  is  2600  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
the  hills  rise  on  an  average  to  an  equal  height  above 
it,  though  here  and  there  some  of  the  distant  peaks 
are  10,000  to  12,000  feet  in  height.  Thus  Manipur 
contains  within  its  borders  a  variety  of  climate  from 
almost  tropical,  to  a  greater  cold  than  that  of 
England.  The  heat  is  never  very  excessive  in  the 


WASTEFUL  CULTIVATION.  79 

valley,  and  for  eight  months  in  the  year  it  is  most 
enjoyable.  Foreigners  suffer  much  from  bronchial 
affections,  doubtless  owing  to  the  waterlogged  soil, 
but  these  complaints  are  not  more  prevalent  among 
the  native  population  than  elsewhere,  and  if  sanitary 
laws  were  properly  observed,  the  valley  might  be  a 
most  healthy  place  and  the  population  would  rapidly 
overflow. 

The  capital  is  almost  intersected  by  the  25th 
parallel  north  latitude,  and  95°  east  longitude,  and 
is  132  miles  by  road  from  Silchar,  the  capital  of 
Cachar,  and  70  from  Tamu  in  the  Kubo  valley. 
The  valley  of  Manipur  forms  the  centre  of  a  chain  of 
valleys,  viz.,  Cachar,  Manipur,  and  Kubo,  connecting- 
Bengal  with  Burinah  proper.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
facing  the  valley  of  Manipur  are  generally  covered 
with  grass  or  scant  jungle  which  rapidly  dries  up  as 
the  cold  season  advances,  but  when  once  the  crest  is 
passed,  a  fine  forest  is  reached;  except  where  the  hill- 
tribes  have  destroyed  it,  to  raise  one  crop  and  then 
let  it  relapse  into  grass  and  scrub.  Alas,  I  have 
seen  noble  oak  forests  laid  low  and  burned  for  this 
purpose.  It  is  an  abominable  custom,  and  nothing 
can  justify  our  permitting  it  where  we  hold  sway. 
That  it  is  not  necessary  is  shown  by  the  Angamis 
and  some  of  the  Tankhool  tribes,  who  though  they 
do  occasionally  indulge  in  this  wasteful  cultivation 
are  quite  independent  of  it,  as  they  terrace  their  hill- 
sides and  cultivate  the  same  tract  for  generations. 
The  forests  of  Manipur  are  plentifully  supplied  with 
fine  timber  trees ;  several  varieties  of  oak  and  chest- 
nut exist,  and  many  others  unknown  in  England  such 
as  Woo-Ningtho,  an  excellent  timber  said  to  resist 


80  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

the  ravages  of  white  ants;  wang,  which  can  be 
worked  in  its  green  state  as  it  never  warps  ;  teak, 
etc.  Fir  trees  are  found  in  abundance  to  the  south, 
east,  and  north-east  of  the  valley,  and  bamboos  of 
many  kinds,  including  the  giant,  are  plentiful. 

llhododendrons  and  wild  azaleas  of  several  kinds, 
as  well  as  many  species  of  brilliant  orchids,  add 
greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  forests,  and  in  some 
parts  tree  ferns  are  abundant.  I  know  nothing 
more  lovely  in  the  world,  than  some  of  the  forest 
scenery  of  Manipur  with  its  solemn  stillness. 

The  early  history  of  Manipur  is  lost  in  obscurity, 
but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  has  existed  as  an 
independent  kingdom  from  a  very  early  period.  In 
the  days  when  the  Indian  branch  of  the  Aryan  race 
was  still  in  its  progressive  and  colonising  stage,  this 
district  was  repeatedly  passed  over  by  one  wave  after 
another  of  invaders,  intent  on  penetrating  into  the 
remotest  parts  of  Burmah.  We  have  no  means  of 
ascertaining  what  government  it  had  before  the 
year  700  A.D.,  but  it  is  believed  that  a  monarchy 
prevailed  at  that  era.  About  the  year  1250  A.D.,  a 
large  Chinese  force  invaded  the  country,  and  was 
signally  defeated ;  all  who  were  not  killed  being 
made  prisoners.  These  taught  the  Manipuris  silk 
culture,  and  a  number  of  them  were  settled  at  Susa 
Ranieng  in  the  valley,  where  they  have  still 
descendants.  The  Chinese  also  taught  the  art  of 
brick-making,  and  erected  two  solid  blocks  of 
masonry  in  the  palace,  between  which  the  road  to  the 
Lion  Gate  passed.  These  blocks  were  levelled  with 
the  ground  by  the  Burmese  invaders,  but  rebuilt  on 
the  old  foundations  by  Ghumbeer  Singh. 


MANIPURI  CAVALRY.  81 

Manipur  in  old  days  possessed  a  famous  breed  of 
ponies,  larger  and  better  bred  that  the  so-called 
Burmese  ponies  that  come  from  the  Shan  states. 
On  these  ponies  were  mounted  the  formidable 
cavalry  that  in  the  last  century  made  Manipur  feared 
throughout  Upper  Burmah,  and  enabled  her  rulers 
on  more  than  one  occasion,  to  carry  their  victorious 
arms  within  sight  of  Ava,  where  their  Rajah 
Pamheiba  erected  a  stone  pillar  to  commemorate 
the  event.  The  cavalry  used  the  regular  Manipuri 
saddle  protecting  the  legs,  and  were  armed  with 
spears  and  two  quivers  of  darts.  These  darts  in  a 
retreat  were  grasped  by  a  loop  and  swung  round  in 
a  peculiar  way,  when  the  shaft  formed  of  peacock 
feathers  with  an  iron  head  suddenly  became  detached, 
and  flying  with  great  force  inflicted  a  fatal  wound 
wherever  it  struck.  A.  skilful  man  could  throw  them 
with  great  precision. 

The  territories  of  Manipur  varied  according  to 
the  mettle  of  its  rulers.  Sometimes  they  held  a  con- 
siderable territory  east  of  the  Ohindwin  river  in 
subjection,  at  other  times  only  the  Kubo  valley,  a 
strip  of  territory,  inhabited,  not  by  Burmese,  but 
by  Shans,  and  lying  between  Manipur  proper  and 
the  Chindwin.  Again  they  were  driven  back  into 
Manipur  proper.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  last 
century,  the  Kubo  valley  unquestionably  belonged 
to  Manipur,  and  it  was  never  in  any  sense  a 
Burmese  province,  being,  when  not  under  Manipur, 
a  feudatory  of  the  great  Shan  kingdom  of  Pong. 

In  the  middle  of  the  last  century  one  of  those 
extraordinary  men  who  appear  from  time  to  time  in 
the  East,  destined  to  shine  like  a  blazing  meteor, 

o 


82  MY   EXPEKIENCES  IN  MANIPUB. 

imparting  exceeding  brilliancy  to  their  country,  and 
then  as  suddenly  vanishing,  so  that  it  returns  to  its 
original  obscurity,  appeared  in  Burmah.  His  name, 
Along  Pra,  has  been  corrupted  by  us  into  Alompra, 
by  which  he  is  always  known.  He  speedily  raised 
Burmah  to  a  commanding  position.  The  kingdom 
of  Pong  was  overthrown  and  its  territories  mostly 
annexed,  Pegu  was  conquered,  our  district  of  Chitta- 
gong  threatened,  and  Siam  forced  to  relinquish 
several  coveted  possessions.  The  war  fever  did  not 
die  with  Alompra,  and  in  1817  and  1819  Assam  and 
Manipur  were  respectively  invaded,  internal  dissen- 
sions having  bred  traitors,  who,  in  both  countries, 
made  the  path  of  the  invaders  easy.  But  the  master 
spirit  was  gone,  and  when  we  appeared  upon  the 
scene,  they  could  make  no  efficient  stand.  Had  we 
then  marched  to  Ava,  the  Burmese  Empire  would 
have  collapsed  like  a  house  of  cards,  and  the  events 
of  1885  been  anticipated  by  sixty  years.  As  it  was, 
we  did  not  realise  our  strength  and  the  Burmese 
weakness,  and  contented  ourselves  with  annexing 
Assam  and  Cachar  and  protecting  Manipur. 

It  is  not  very  evident  what  the  religion  of  Manipur 
was  in  early  days,  but  we  see  no  trace  of  Buddhism. 
Probably,  whatever  the  belief  in  early  years  when 
the  people  may  have  been  affected  by  the  intermit- 
tent stream  of  Aryans  passing  through,  for  many 
centuries  no  religious  rites  were  used  before  the 
recent  rise  of  Hindooism,  further  than  to  appease 
evil  spirits,  as  is  the  custom  of  the  surrounding 
tribes.  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  some  time  or 
other  the  Naga  tribes  to  the  north  made  one  of  their 
chiefs  Rajah  of  Manipur,  and  that  his  family,  while, 


HINDOO   PKOSELYTISM.  83 

like  the  Manchus  in  China  and  other  conquerors, 
adopting  the  civilisation  of  the  country,  retained 
some  of  their  old  customs.  This  is  shown  in  the 
curious  practice  at  the  installation  of  a  Eajah,  when 
he  and  the  Ranee  appear  in  Naga  costume  ;  also  that 
he  always  has  in  his  palace  a  house  built  like  a 
Naga's,  and  wherever  he  goes  he  is  attended  by  two 
or  three  Manipuris  with  Naga  arms  and  accoutre- 
ments. I  once  told  a  Manipuri  what  I  thought  on 
the  subject,  and  he  was  greatly  struck  by  it,  and 
admitted  the  force  of  what  I  said. 

Towards  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  for  some 
reason  or  other,  a  great  Hindoo  revival  took  place  in 
the  East  of  India.  Assam  was  once  Hindoo  but  had 
long  become  Buddhist  under  its  Ahom  kings,  and 
now  became  converted  to  Hindooism,  by  Brahmins 
from  Bengal.  All  difficulties  were  smoothed  over, 
and  converts  were  made  by  tens  of  thousands.  It  is 
to  be  regretted  that  it  was  so,  as  these  "  converts  " 
quickly  deteriorated.  The  easy  conquest  of  Hindoo- 
ised  Assam  by  the  Burmese,  when  Buddhist  Assam 
had  successfully  resisted  a  powerful  army  sent  by 
Arungzebe  from  India  and  composed  largely  of 
recruits  from  Central  Asia,  seems  proof  of  it,  if  all 
other  evidence  were  wanting. 

The  process  of  conversion  in  Manipur  began  a 
generation  later  than  in  Assam,  and  proceeded  on 
somewhat  different  lines,  but  it  was  not  less  effective, 
and  was  still  going  on  at  a  late  date.  It  had  not  the 
same  deteriorating  effect,  for  the  Rajahs  assumed  to 
themselves  a  position  greater  than  that  of  High 
Pontiff,  and  could  at  any  time  by  their  simple  fiat 
have  changed  the  religion  of  the  country  and  de- 

G  2 


84  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

graded  all  the  Brahmins,  in  fact  all  admissions  to  the 
Hindoo  pale  from  the  outer  world  of  unorthodoxy 
were  made  by  the  Rajah  himself.  Sometimes  the 
inhabitants  of  a  village  were  elevated  en  masse  from 
the  level  of  outcasts,  to  that  of  Hindoos  of  pure  caste, 
but  more  often  single  individuals  were  "  converted." 
A  man  belonging  to  a  hill-tribe,  for  instance,  could, 
if  the  Rajah  chose,  at  any  time  receive  the  sacred 
thread  of  the  twice-born  castes,  and  on  payment  of  a 
small  sum  of  money  be  admitted  as  a  Hindoo  and 
was  thenceforth  called  a  Khetree.*  This  privilege  was 
not  accorded  to  Mussulmans.  I  once  asked  a  Manipuri 
why  they  received  hill- men  and  not  Mussulmans,  both 
being  Mlechas,f  according  to  Hindoo  theory.  He  said 
it  was  because  the  hill  people  had  sinned  in  ignorance, 
whereas  Mussulmans  knew  the  evil  of  their  ways. 

Of  course,  every  one  who  knows  anything  of 
Hindooism  is  aware  that  theoretically  a  man  must  be 
born  a  Hindoo,  and  that  proselytism  is  not  admitted. 
Practically,  however,  this  rule  is  ignored  on  the 
eastern  frontier,  and  all  along  it  from  Sudya  down 
to  Chittagong,  where  conversions  are  daily  taking 
place.  I  remember  villages  in  Assam  where  caste 
was  unknown  thirty-five  years  ago,  but  where  now 
the  people  live  in  the  odour  of  sanctity  as  highly 
orthodox  and  bigoted  Hindoos.  Strange  to  say,  the 
pure  Hindoos  of  the  North- West  Provinces  acknow- 
ledge the  pretensions  of  these  spurious  converts 
sufficiently  so  as  to  allow  of  their  drinking  water 
brought  by  them.  It  is  probably  easier  to  take  the 
people  at  their  own  valuation  than  to  carry  water 
one's  self  from  a  distance  when  tired.  By  the 

*  Probably  a  corruption  of  Khatyra.  f  I.e.  Unclean. 


GHUMBEER   SINGH.  85 

religious  law  of  the  Hindoos,  it  is  forbidden  to  eat  or 
drink  anything  touched  by  one  of  another  tribe. 

Our  first  relations  with  Manipur  date  from  1762, 
when  Governor  Verelst  of  the  Bengal  Presidency— 
with  that  splendid  self-reliance  and  large-mindedness 
characteristic  of  the  makers  of  the.  British  Indian 
Empire,  men  who  acted  instead  of  talking,  and  were 
always  ready  to  extend  our  responsibilities  when 
advisable — entered  into  a  treaty  with  the  Rajah  of 
Manipur.  As  this  treaty  came  to  nothing,  practi- 
cally our  connection  with  the  little  state  really  dates 
from  1823.  It  had  been  invaded  by  the  Burmese  in 
1819,  and  its  people  driven  out  or  carried  off  into 
slavery  in  Burmah.  The  royal  family  were  fugitives. 

At  that  time  Sylhet  was  our  frontier  station,  and 
our  relations  with  the  Burmese,  who  were  at  the 
highest  pitch  of  their  power,  were  daily  becoming 
more  strained.  On  our  side  of  the  frontier  we  were 
ably  represented  by  Mr.  David  Scott,  agent  to  the 
Governor-General,  and  preparations  were  being  made 
for  the  inevitable  struggle.  One  day  a  young  Mani- 
puri  prince  waited  on  Mr.  Scott  and  asked  leave  to 
raise  a  Manipuri  force  to  fight  on  our  side.  He 
was  short  and  slight,  and  of  indomitable  courage  and 
energy,  and  the  agent  to  the  Governor-General 
recognising  his  ability,  allowed  him  to  raise  500  men. 
These  were  soon  increased  to  2000,  cavalry,  infantry 
and  artillery.  Two  English  officers,  Captain  F.  Grant 
and  Lieutenant  E.  B.  Pemberton,  were  attached 
to  the  force,  thenceforth  called  the  Manipur  Levy, 
to  drill  and  discipline  it. 

In  1825  a  general  advance  was  made  all  along  our 
line,  Cachar  was  invaded  and  subdued,  and  we 


86  MY  EXPEEIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

essayed  to  pursue  the  enemy  into  Manipur  and  thence 
into  Burmah,  but  our  transport  arrangements  failed. 
Hitherto  we  had  been  accustomed  to  wars  in  the 
arid  plains  of  India,  and  our  military  authorities  did 
not  realise  the  necessities  of  an  expedition  into  the 
eastern  jungles.  Hence,  camels  and  bullocks  were 
sent  to  dislocate  their  limbs  in  the  tenacious  mud 
and  swamps  of  Cachar,  and  when  the  advance  into 
Manipur  was  desired,  our  regular  troops  were  power- 
less. At  this  crisis  the  Manipur  Levy  showed  its  im- 
mense value.  The  men  could  move  lightly  equipped 
without  the  paraphernalia  of  a  regular  army,  and 
advance  they  did,  and  with  such  effect  that  in  a  short 
time  not  only  was  Manipur  cleared,  but  the  enemy 
driven  out  of  the  Kubo  valley.  Later  on,  Grhumbeer 
Singh  was  recognised  as  Rajah  of  Manipur,  and  the 
Kubo  valley  was  included  within  his  territories. 

Manipur  at  this  time  contained  only  2000  inhabi- 
tants, the  miserable  remnants  of  a  thriving  popula- 
tion of  at  least  400,000,  possibly  600,000,  that  existed 
before  the  invasion.  G-humbeer  Singh's  task  was  to 
encourage  exiles  to  return,  and  to  attempt  to  rebuild 
the  prosperity  of  his  little  kingdom.  He  was  a  wise 
and  strong  though  severe  ruler,  and  though  he  owed 
his  throne  greatly  to  his  own  efforts,  he  to  the  last 
retained  the  deepest  feelings  of  loyalty  and  gratitude 
to  the  British  Government,  promptly  obeying  all  its 
orders  and  doing  his  utmost  to  impress  the  same 
feeling  on  all  his  officers. 

As  is  always  the  case,  though  we  had  carried  all 
before  us  in  the  war,  we  began  to  display  great 
weakness  afterwards.  We  had  an  agent,  Colonel 
Burney,  at  Ava,  and  the  Burmese  who  were  not 


THE  KUBO  VALLEY.  87 

disposed  to  be  at  all  friendly,  constantly  tried  to  im- 
press on  him  the  fact  that  all  difficulties  and  disputes 
would  be  at  an  end  if  we  ceded  the  Kubo  valley  to 
them,  that  territory  belonging  to  our  ally  Ghumbeer 
Singh  of  Manipur.  Of  course  the  proposal  ought  to 
have  been  rejected  with  scorn,  and  a  severe  snub 
given  to  the  Burmese  officials.  The  advisers  of  the 
Government  of  India, however,  being  generally  officers 
brought  up  in  the  Secretariat,  and  with  little  practical 
knowledge  of  Asiatics,  the  manly  course  was  not 
followed.  It  was  not  realised  that  a  display  of  self- 
confidence  and  strength  is  the  best  diplomacy  with 
people  like  the  Burmese,  and  with  a  view  to  winning 
their  good-will  we  basely  consented  to  deprive  our 
gallant  and  loyal  ally  of  part  of  his  territories.  An 
attempt  was  made  to  negotiate  with  him,  but  Major 
Grant  said,  "It  is  no  use  bargaining  with  Grhumbeer 
Singh,"  and  refused  to  take  any  part  in  it.  He  was 
asked  what  compensation  should  be  given,  and  he 
said  6000  sicca  rupees  per  annum. 

When  Ghumbeer  Singh  heard  the  final  decision 
he  quietly  accepted  it,  saying,  "  You  gave  it  me  and 
you  can  take  it  away.  I  accept  your  decree."  The 
proposed  transfer  was  very  distasteful  to  many  of 
the  inhabitants,  including  the  Sumjok  (Thoungdoot) 
Tsawbwa,*  but  they  were  not  consulted.  The  Kubo 
valley  was  handed  over  to  the  Burmese  on  the  9th  of 
January,  1834,  and  on  that  day  Ghumbeer  Singh  died 
in  Manipur  of  cholera.  Perhaps  he  was  happy  in  the 
hour  of  his  death,  as  he  felt  the  treatment  of  our 
Government  most  severely. 

*  Mentioned  frequently  later  on.    In  August,  1891,  he  was  a  fugitive 
from  the  British  Government,  hiding  himself  on  the  Chinese  frontier. — ED. 


88  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Ghumbeer  Singh  and  our  treatment  of  him — Nur  Singh  and  attempt  on 
his  life — McCulloch — His  wisdom  and  generosity — My  establishment 
— Settlement  of  frontier  dispute. 

G-HUMBEER  SINGH  did  much  for  Manipur  during  his 
comparatively  short  reign.  He  made  all  the  roads 
in  his  territory  safe,  and  subdued  the  different  hill- 
tribes  who  had  asserted  their  independence  during 
the  troubles  with  Burmah.  Imphal,  the  old  capital, 
had  not  been  re-occupied,  though  the  sacred  spot 
where  the  temple  of  Govindjee  stood  was  cared  for ; 
but  a  new  palace  had  been  built  at  Langthabal  at  a 
distance  of  three  and  a  half  miles  from  Imphal  where 
several  fine  masonry  buildings  were  erected,  and  a 
canal  dug  for  the  annual  boat  races.  Langthabal* 
was  deserted  in  1844  and  the  old  site  re-occupied, 
and  in  my  time,  the  buildings  at  Langthabal  were 
picturesque  ruins,  having  been  greatly  injured  by 
time  and  the  earthquakes  of  1869  and  1880.  Grhum- 
beer  Singh  left  an  infant  son,  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh 
who  was  two  years  of  age  at  his  father's  death  and  a 
distant  cousin,  Nur  Singh,  was  appointed  Regent. 
Contrary  to  all  precedent,  the  Regent  was  loyal  to 
his  charge  and  governed  well  and  ably  for  the  infant 

*  Here  a  British  native  regiment  was  stationed,  after  Sir  J.  Johnstone's 
retirement,  but  some  time  before  the  troubles  of  1891. — ED. 


FOEMER  DEALINGS  WITH  MANIPUR.  89 

prince,  in  spite  of  constant  attempts  to  overthrow  his 
government.  In  1844,  the  Queen-Mother  wishing 
to  govern  herself,  attempted  to  procure  Nur  Singh's 
murder  as  he  was  at  prayers  in  the  temple.  She 
failed  and  fled  with  her  son  the  young  Rajah  Chandra 
Kirtee  Singh  to  British  territory.  The  Regent  then 
proclaimed  himself  Rajah  with  the  consent  of  all  the 
people.  The  Manipur  Levy  had  been  maintained  up 
till  1835  when  the  Government  of  India  withdrew 
their  connection  from  it,  and  ceased  to  pay  the  men. 
Major  Grant  left  Manipur,  and  Captain  Gordon,  who 
had  been  adjutant  since  1827,  was  made  Political 
Agent  of  Manipur.  Captain  Pemberton  had  long 
since  been  on  special  survey  duty. 

Captain  Gordon  died  in  December  1844.  He  was 
much  liked  and  long  remembered  by  the  people 
whom  he  had  greatly  benefited,  among  other  ways 
by  introducing  English  vegetables,  and  fruits.  He 
was  succeeded  by  Lieutenant  (afterwards  Colonel) 
McCulloch. 

Rajah  Nur  Singh  died  in  1850,  and  was  succeeded 
by  his  brother  Debindro,  a  weak  man,  quite  unfit  for 
the  position.  In  1850,  young  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh 
invaded  the  valley  with  a  body  of  followers,  De- 
bindro fled,  and  he  mounted  the  throne  without 
opposition.  Up  to  this  time  the  Government  of 
India  had  always  acknowledged  the  de  facto  Rajah 
of  Manipur,  and  revolutions  with  much  accompanying 
bloodshed  were  common.  Now,  however,  McCulloch 
strongly  urged  the  advisability  of  supporting- 
Chandra  Kirtee  Singh,  and  he  received  authority  to 
"  make  a  public  avowal  of  the  determination  of  the 
British  Government  to  uphold  the  present  Rajah  and 


90  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

to  resist  and  punish  any  parties  attempting  hereafter 
to  dispossess  him."  The  Court  of  Directors  of  the 
East  India  Company,  in  a  despatch  dated  May  5th, 
1852,  confirmed  the  order  of  the  Government  of 
India  and  commented  thus  :  "  The  position  you  have 
assumed  of  pledged  protector  of  the  Eajah,  imposes 
on  you  as  a  necessary  consequence  the  obligation  of 
attempting  to  guide  him,  by  your  advice,  but  if 
needful  of  protecting  his  subjects  against  oppression 
on  his  part ;  otherwise  our  guarantee  of  his  rule  may 
be  the  cause  of  inflicting  on  them  a  continuance  of 
reckless  tyranny." 

These  words  of  justice  and  wisdom  were  steadily 
ignored  by  successive  governments.  On  no  occasion 
did  the  Government  of  India  ever  seriously  remon- 
strate with  the  Eajah,  or  make  a  sustained  effort  to 
improve  his  system  of  administration.  The  East 
India  Company's  order  became  a  dead  letter,  but  the 
resolution  to  uphold  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh  bore 
good  fruit,  and  during  his  long  reign  of  thirty-five 
years  no  successful  attempt  against  his  authority  was 
ever  made,  and  he  on  his  part  displayed  unswerving 
fidelity  to  the  British  Government. 

I  have  already  mentioned  the  great  work  that 
Colonel  McCulloch  accomplished  with  regard  to  the 
Kukis.  This  added  to  his  long  experience,  gave 
him  great  influence  in  the  State,  and  when  he 
retired  from  the  service  in  1861,  it  was  amidst  the 
regrets  of  the  whole  people.  Able,  high-minded, 
respected,  and  having  accomplished  a  task  few  could 
even  have  attempted,  he  left  without  honour  or 
reward  from  his  Government.  How  many  men  of 
inferior  capacity,  and  quite  without  his  old-fashioned 


COLONEL  McCULLOCH.  91 

single-minded  devotion  to  duty,  are  nowadays 
covered  with,  stars !  When  he  left  he  made  every 
effort  to  hand  over  his  vast  power  and  influence 
intact  to  his  successor,  and  to  smooth  his  way  as 
much  as  possible.  Had  the  Government  of  India 
exercised  the  slightest  tact  and  discretion  in  the 
selection  of  its  agent,  he  might  have  carried  on  the 
good  work  so  ably  commenced,  and  brought  Manipur 
by  rapid  strides  into  the  path  of  progress.  As  it 
was  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  find  an  officer 
more  unfitted  to  succeed  Colonel  McCulloch  than 
the  one  selected ;  he  was  soon  involved  in  difficulties, 
and  after  a  troubled  period  was  ordered  by  Govern- 
ment to  leave  at  three  days'  notice.  For  a  time  the 
agency  remained  vacant,  but  the  Eajah  applied  for 
another  officer,  and  Colonel  McCulloch  was  requested 
by  the  Government  to  quit  his  retirement,  an.d  again 
assume  charge.  He  did  so,  and  was  received  with 
acclamations  by  Rajah  and  people,  the  whole  State 
turning  out  to  meet  him.  His  first  effort  was  to 
restore  the  confidence  forfeited  by  the  late  political 
agent,  and  everything  went  on  as  smoothly  as  ever ; 
but,  towards  the  end  of  1867,  he  finally  retired, 
staying  on  a  few  days  after  his  successor's  arrival  to 
post  him  up  in  his  work.  This  time  it  would  have 
been  thought  that  some  judgment  would  be  shown 
in  the  selection  of  an  officer  for  the  post;  but  the 
next  political  agent  was  eminently  unfitted  and  for 
some  years  before  his  death  in  1876,  was  on  very 
indifferent  terms  with  the  Durbar. 

During  the  brief  period  that  elapsed  between  the 
last  event  and  my  taking  charge,  two  different 
officers  held  the  post. 


92  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

My  Government  establishment  consisted  of  a  head 
clerk,  a  most  excellent  man,  Baboo  Rusni  Lall 
Coondoo ;  a  native  doctor,  Lachman  Parshad  ;  native 
secretary  and  Manipuri  interpreter ;  Burmese  inter- 
preter ;  Naga  interpreter ;  Kuki  interpreter ;  and 
latterly  six  chuprassies,  i.e.*  orderlies  or  lictors.  As 
for  private  servants  we  had  three  Naga  girls,  a  Mugh 
cook  and  assistant,  who  could  turn  out  a  dinner 
equal  to  any  of  the  London  clubs  for  one  hundred 
people  at  a  couple  of  days'  notice,  and  under  him  I 
had  four  young  Nagas  learning  their  work,  as  I  was 
determined  to  do  more  for  my  successors  than  my 
predecessors  had  done  for  me,  viz.,  teach  and  train 
up  a  staff  of  servants  so  as  to  save  the  necessity  of 
importing  the  scum  of  Calcutta.  I  had  an  excellent 
bearer,  Horna,  as  I  have  already  stated,  and  under 
him  were  two  or  three  Nagas;  washerman,  syces, 
gardeners,  water-carriers,  etc.,  made  up  the  number. 
All  my  interpreters,  chuprassies,  and  servants,  I 
clothed  in  scarlet  livery  which  made  a  great  impres- 
sion, and  gradually  the  air  of  squalor  which  prevailed 
when  I  arrived  began  to  disappear.  I  had  charge  of 
a  Government  Treasury  from  which  I  used  to  pay 
myself  and  the  Government  establishment.  The 
currency  of  the  country  was  a  small  bell-metal  coin 
called  "  Sel,"  of  which  400  to  480  went  to  the  rupee, 
also  current,  but  copper  pice  were  not  used,  and  all 
Manipuri  accounts  were  kept  in  "  Sel." 

At  this  time  the  Naga  Hills  were  still  under  a 
political  officer  whose  actual  jurisdiction  was  limited 
to  the  villages  which  had  paid  tribute  to  me,  as 
already  described.  He  was  supposed  to  exercise  a 
certain  influence  over  many  of  the  large  villages, 


BOTJNDAKY  DISPUTE.  93 

but  the  influence  was  lessened  by  the  feeling  en- 
tertained by  the  Nagas  that  our  stay  in  the  hills  was 
uncertain,  and  that  for  all  practical  purposes  the 
Manipuris  were  the  power  most  to  be  reckoned  with, 
and  from  our  point  of  view  it  was  very  desirable 
that  our  headquarter  station  should  be  removed  to 
Kohima.  A  dispute  with  Mozuma,  due  chiefly  to 
our  vacillating  conduct,  was  now  going  on,  but  its 
chiefs  would  not  accept  our  terms,  and  an  expedition 
to  coerce  them  was  in  preparation  in  which  I  was  to 
take  part.  Mr.  Carnegy  was  political  officer,  a  man 
of  ability  and  determination,  and  very  pleasant  to 
deal  with.  During  the  dispute  with  Mozuma,  the 
other  villages  held  aloof,  thinking  Mozuma  was  able 
to  hold  its  own,  and  waiting  to  see  which  side  gained 
the  day. 

Burmah  was  still  under  its  native  rulers.  There 
were  constant  frontier  disputes  going  on  between  it 
and  Manipur,  but  that  state  of  things  was  chronic. 

To  the  south  of  Manipur,  the  Chin  and  Lushai 
tribes  were  quiet. 

There  was  a  long  standing  boundary  dispute  be- 
tween Manipur  and  the  Naga  Hills.  The  boundary 
had  been  most  arbitrarily  settled  by  us  when  the 
survey  was  carried  out,  so  far  as  a  certain  point, 
beyond  that  it  was  vague.  Manipur  claimed 
territory  which  we  certainly  did  not  possess,  and 
which  she  had  visited  from  time  to  time,  but  did  not 
actually  hold  in  subjection.  Other  portions,  as  I 
afterwards  proved,  were  occupied  by  her,  though  the 
fact  had  not  been  ascertained.  Over  and  over  again 
efforts  had  been  made  to  bring  the  Durbar  to  terms, 
but  without  success.  I  determined  to  grapple  with 


94  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUK. 

the  question  at  once.  I  took  a  map  and  drew  a  line 
including  all  that  I  thought  Manipur  entitled  to,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Naga  Hills,  and  advised 
the  Maharajah  to  accept  the  arrangement  on  the 
understanding  that  when  I  visited  the  country 
claimed  further  eastward,  I  would  recommend  the 
Government  of  India  to  allow  him  to  retain  all  that 
he  actually  held  in  his  possession.  This  was  agreed 
to  by  him  and  confirmed  by  Government,  and  I 
believe  that  substantial  justice  was  done  to  both 
parties. 

I  should  like  to  have  seen  Manipur  get  more,  as  a 
set-off  against  our  unjust  treatment  in  former  years, 
but  as  we  were  sure  eventually,  to  occupy  all  the 
Naga  Hills,  it  was  necessary  to  make  such  an 
adjustment  as  would  not  injure  British  interests  in 
the  future. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

My  early  days  in  Manipur — The  capital — The  inhabitants — Good  qualities 
of  Manipuris — Origin  of  valley  of  Manipur — Expedition  to  the  Naga 
Hills — Lovely  scenery — Attack  on  Kongal  Tannah  by  Burmese — 
Eeturn  from  Naga  Hills — Visit  Kongal  Tannah. 

THE  first  few  weeks  in  Manipur  were  taken  up  in 
making  acquaintance  with  the  place  and  people,  and 
doing  all  that  was  possible  to  disarm  the  fears  of  the 
Durbar.   Never  was  there  one  so  suspicious.   At  first 
all  my  movements  were  watched,  and  wherever  I 
went  spies,  open    or  secret,  followed ;    however,  I 
encouraged  it  to  the  utmost,  and  told  the  officials  to 
inquire  into  everything  I  did,  and  they  very  soon 
saw  that  there  was  no  necessity  for  special  espionage, 
though  all  my  acts  were  still  noted  and  reported. 
Several  little  difficulties  cropped  up  regarding  British 
subjects,  and  required   some   care   in  dealing   with 
them.     In  one  case,  a  man  had  taken  upon  himself 
to  intrigue  with  some  of  the  Nagas  under  Manipur, 
and  urged  them  to  declare  themselves  British  subjects, 
and  in  another,  a  man  had  robbed  the  Maharajah. 
In  both  instances  the  Durbar  had  acted  foolishly  and 
precipitately,  though  under  much  provocation.  How- 
ever, I  turned  both  men  out  of  the  country,  with 
orders  never  to  return. 

The  question  of  British  subjects  and  their  rights 
was   one   that    gave    me   much   trouble   for  years. 


96  MY  EXPEKIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

Judging  by  a  decision  of  the  High  Court  of  Calcutta 
that  all  the  descendants  of  European  British  subjects 
were  European  British  subjects,  I  insisted  on  all 
descendants  of  British  subjects  being  considered  as 
such,  and  subject  to  my  jurisdiction.  After  a  long 
struggle  I  carried  my  point,  and  it  very  greatly 
strengthened  my  position. 

A  few  more  words  about  the  capital  and  the 
Manipuris  may  not  be  amiss.  Imphal,  as  has  been 
said,*  covered  a  space  of  fifteen  square  miles.  On 
the  north  side  it  touches  on  some  low  hills,  called 
Ching-mai-roong,  and  running  westward  is  bounded 
by  a  shallow  lake,  which  is  partly  enclosed  by  a 
continuation  of  the  hills,  here  called  Langol,  on 
which  grows  a  celebrated  cane  used  for  polo  sticks. 
Then,  running  south,  it  is  intersected  by  several 
roads,  notably  the  road  to  Silchar,  which  enters  the 
capital  at  a  place  called  Kooak-Kaithel  (i.e.  crow 
bazaar).  Here  it  is  bounded  by  rice  cultivation. 
Going  farther  south,  and  sweeping  round  in  an 
easterly  direction,  it  is  bounded  by  the  Plain  of 
Lang-thabal,  at  one  extremity  of  which  lies  the  old 
capital ;  here  two  rivers  intersect  it.  And  going- 
farther  east,  it  is  bounded  by  the  lower  slopes  of  a 
hill  rising  2500  feet  above  the  valley.  Then  turning 
to  the  northward  and  crossing  two  rivers,  we  come 
again  to  the  place  from  which  we  started.  The 
want  of  the  town  was  a  good  water-supply ;  there 
were  one  or  two  fair-sized  tanks,  or  ponds,  as  they 
would  be  called  in  England,  and  the  afore-mentioned 
rivers,  of  which  the  water  is  not  improved  by  re- 

*  Quoted  by  kind  permission  of  editor  from  my  article  in  Nineteenth 
Century. 


MANIPUBI  SKILL.  97 

ceiving  the  ashes  of  the  dead  burned  on  their  banks. 
Beyond  this,  "all  the  water  obtainable  was  derived 
from  small  ponds,  one  or  more  of  which  was  to  be 
found  in  every  garden  enclosure.  The  ground  on 
which  the  capital  stands  must  at  one  time  have  been 
very  low,  probably  a  marsh,  and  it  has  been  artifi- 
cially raised  from  time  to  time  by  digging  these 
tanks ;  every  raised  road,  too,  meant  a  deep  stagnant 
ditch  on  either  side.  The  people  are  not  sanitary  in 
their  habits,  and  when  heavy  rain  falls  the  gardens 
are  flooded,  and  a  fair  share  of  the  accumulated  filth 
is  washed  into  the  drinking-tanks,  the  result  being 
frequent  epidemics  of  cholera. 

The  Manipuris  themselves  are  a  fine  stalwart  race 
descended  from  an  Indo-Chinese  stock,  with  some 
admixture  of  Aryan  blood,  derived  from  the  succes- 
sive waves  of  Aryan  invaders  that  have  passed 
througk  the  valley  in  prehistoric  days.  It  may  be 
this,  or  from  an  admixture  of  Chinese  blood,  but 
certainly  the  Manipuris  have  stable  and  industrious 
qualities  which  the  Burmese  and  Shans  do  not 
possess.  Since  then  the  race  has  been  constantly 
fed  by  additions  from  the  various  hill-tribes  sur- 
rounding the  valley.  The  result  is  a  fairly  homo- 
geneous people  of  great  activity  and  energy,  with 
much  of  the  Japanese  aptitude  for  acquiring  new 
arts.  The  men  seem  capable  of  learning  anything, 
and  the  women  are  famous  as  weavers,  and  in  many 
cases  have  completely  killed  out  the  manufacture  of 
cloths  formerly  peculiar  to  certain  of  the  hill-tribes, 
over  whom  the  Manipuris  have  obtained  mastery  by 
superior  intellect.  They  are  always  cheerful,  even 
on  a  long  and  trying  march,  and  are  good-humoured 

H 


DS  MY   EXPEDIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

under  £ny  difficulties  and  never  apparently  conscious 
of  •  fatigue.  They  are  very  abstemious,  and  live 
chiefly  on  rice  and  fish,  which  is  often  rotten  from 
preference.  Though  rigid  Hindoos  outwardly,  they 
have  a  curious  custom  by  which  a  man  of  low  caste, 
marrying  a  high-caste  woman,  can  be  adopted  into 
her  tribe,  the  exact  reverse  of  what  prevails  in 
India,  where  a  woman  of  high  caste  marrying  a 
low-caste  man  is  hopelessly  degraded  and  her  children 
outcasts. 

It  is  impossible  for  those  who  have  marched  much 
in  the  hills  with  Manipuris  to  avoid  liking  them. 
Their  caste  prejudices,  .though  rigid,  give  no  trouble 
to  others.  Hungry  or  not,  they  are  always  ready  to 
march,  and  march  all  day  and  all  night,  if  necessary. 
Still,  the  Indo-Chinese  races  exceed  even  the  ordinary 
Asiatic  in  reserve  and  sphinx-like  characteristics, 
and  the  Manipuris  are  an  inscrutable  set.  I  had 
many  intimate  friends  among  them,  yet,  on  the 
whole,  prefer  the  pure  Hindoo. 

What  is  now  the  valley  of  Manipur  was  evidently 
once  a  series  of  valleys  and  ranges  of  hills,  between 
the  higher  ranges  which  now  border  it  and  converge 
to  the  south.  The  rivers  now:flowing  through  the 
valley  then  flowed  through  it  like  the  Barak, 
Eerung,  and  others,  at  a  much  lower  level.  One 
of  the  great  earthquakes,  to  which  these  regions  are 
so  subject,  closed  the  outlet  and  raised  a  permanent 
barrier ;  thus  a  lake  was  formed,  and  in  the  course 
of  ages  the  alluvium  brought  down  by  the  streams 
filled  it  up  to  its  present  level  leaving  the  Logtak 
Lake  in  its  lowest  part,  a  lake  which  has  constantly 
lessened  and  is  still  lessening  in  size.  The  crests  of 


EXPEDITION.  09 

tho  sunken  ranges  are  still  to  be  seen  running  down 
the  valley,  and  mostly  parallel  to  the  bordering 
ranges,  such  are  Langol,  Langthabal,  Phoiching,  Lok- 
ching,  and  others.  Sometimes  a  river,  as  at  a  place 
called  "  Eeroce  Semba,"  runs  at  the  base  of  a  hill, 
and  cuts  away  the  alluvium,  showing  the  solid  rock. 
This  alluvium  forms  one  of  the  deepest  and  richest 
soils  in  the  world. 

I  have  referred  to  the  proposed  expedition  to  the 
Naga  Hills,  to  aid  the  troops  there  in  the  operations 
against  the  powerful  village  of  Mozuma.  In  order 
to  take  part  in  this  expedition  I  had  brought  up 
one  hundred  men  of  the  35th  Native  Infantry,  from 
Cachar,  and  I  started  from  Manipur  on  December  3rd, 
1877,  having  sent  on  the  35th  and  a  Manipuri  force 
of  over  three  hundred  men  under  the  Minister 
Bularem  Singh.  I  rode  out  the  first  day  to  Mayang 
Khang,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  where  I  caught  up 
my  men.  I  passed  Sengmai  at  a  distance  of  thirteen 
miles  on  the  border  of  the  valley,  and  up  to  which 
the  road  is  flat,  and  soon  entered  a  broken  country, 
first  grass,  then  scrub,  then  forest.  The  road  lay 
over  a  succession  of  spurs  of  the  Kowpree  Hills 
which  run  down  into  a  very  narrow  valley,  and  was 
as  bad  as  can  be  imagined — very  steep  ascents  and 
descents.  At  last  we  reached  Kaithernabee,  the 
second  stage,  and  fourteen  miles  from  Sengmai.  It 
is  exceedingly  picturesquely  situated,  having  a 
splendid  view  of  the  Kowpree  range,  here  rising  to 
over  8000  feet.  The  outpost  is  situated  on  a  high 
bank  overlooking  a  stream,  and  beyond  it  a  splendid 
rolling  slope  of  grass  extending  for  miles. 

All  this  part  of  the  country  is  covered  with  bee- 

ii  2 


100  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

hive-shaped  cairns,  built  of  well-selected  stones. 
They  are  said  to  have  been  made  by  the  Koereng 
J^agas,  formerly  a  very  powerful  race,  whose  miser- 
able remnants  now  inhabit  the  neighbouring  hills. 
Farther  on  the  bee-hives  end  suddenly,  and  a  region 
of  monoliths  is  entered.  Probably  both  monoliths 
and  bee-hives  were  erected  to  commemorate  great 
events  in  the  lives  of  the  builders,  the  death  of  a 
chief,  the  birth  of  a  son,  the  giving  of  a  great  feast 
when  a  bison,  or  possibly  many,  were  killed.  Mono- 
liths are  common,  and  exist  all  over  the  Naga  Hills 
and  among  the  Kolarian  and  Dravidian  tribes,  as 
well  as  all  over  Europe.  Cairns  also  are  common ? 
but  the  beehive-shaped  cairns  are,  I  believe,  unique, 
and  found  only  in  Manipur  and  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. 

I  reached  Mayung  Khang  at  4  P.M.,  having  an 
hour  before  crossed  the  watershed,  all  the  streams 
south  of  it  falling  into  the  tributaries  of  the  Chind- 
win  Irrawaddy,  all  to  the  north  running  into  the 
tributaries  of  the  Ganges  and  Burrhampooter. 

Mayung  Khang  is  a  highly  undulating  grassy 
slope,  the  Kowpree  rising  to  nearly  nine  thousand 
feet  in  the  west,  while  after  crossing  a  small  stream 
a  lower  range  closes  it  in  on  the  east.  We  halted 
there  for  the  night  close  to  a  monolith,  and  the  next 
day  marched  to  Mythephum. 

Mythephum  or  Muphum  (lit.  Manipuri  settlement) 
was  a  small  military  post,  and  we  encamped  below 
in  a  wide  valley  among  recently  cut  rice  fields,  with 
a  river  rushing  by  us.  The  place  is  so  named  from 
having  been  a  Manipuri  settlement,  in  the  old  days 
before  the  Burmese  invasion.  High  hills  rose  above 


OUTRAGE   AT   KONGAL.  101 

us  on  all  sides,  the  valley  running  in  and  out  among 
them  and  following  the  course  of  the  stream.  To 
our  north,  and  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  or  two,  was 
the  once  powerful  village  of  Muram,  still  populous 
but  submissive.  I  had  a  small  but  most  comfortable 
straw-built  hut,  and  well  remember  how  delightful 
the  early  morning  was  next  day,  when  I  had  break- 
fast at  sunrise  and  saw  my  thermometer  at  thirty- 
two  degrees.  Only  those  accustomed  to  great  heat 
realise  the  delights  of  a  low  thermometer.  Mythe- 
phum  is  over  4000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  being 
a  low  valley  is  often  extremely  cold.  Sometimes  in : 
winter  the  stream  is  for  a  day  quite  choked  by 
blocks  of  ice,  and  I  have  seen  the  thermometer  at 
twenty-six  degrees,  150  feet  above  the  valley,  which 
probably  meant  eighteen  degrees  at  the  lowest  level 
on  the  grass. 

It  was  my  intention  to  march  on  Mozuma  by  a 
track  which  would  avoid  the  powerful  villages 
of  Yiswena,  Kohima,  Jotsuma  and  Konoma,  and' 
enable  me  to  attack  the  enemy  in  the  rear.  Half- 
way I  was  delayed  by  receiving  no  letter  from  Mr. 
Oarnegy,  with  whom  I  had  to  act  in  concert,  and 
this  prevented  me  from  reaching  the  scene  of  opera- 
tions, as  I  received  the  startling  news  fliat  the 
Manipuri  outpost  of  Kongal  Tannah  on  the  borders 
of  the  Kubo  valley  had  been  attacked  on  Decem- 
ber 14th  by  a  party  of  men  sent  by  the  Rajah  of 
Sumjok  or  Thoungdoot,  and  eight  men  killed.  This 
threw  the  whole  population  of  Manipur  into  a  state 
of  commotion,  and  the  Maharajah  begged  me  to 
return  at  once,  and  I  felt  it  my  duty  to  do  so,  as  my 
chief  work  was  to  protect  Manipur  and  its' interests. 


102  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUH. 

I  therefore  returned  to  Manipur  on  December  17th, 
leaving  my  party  on  the  frontier,  where  they  re- 
mained some  time  longer,  the  Nagas  being  unwilling 
to  submit;  and  making  overtures  instead  to  the 
Maharajah  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh.  He  sternly 
declined  their  offers,  and  threatened  that  if  they  did 
not  speedily  yield  to  the  British  authorities,  he  would 
send  a  large  force  to  our  aid. 

The  Naga  Hills  Campaign  of  that  year  had  no 
further  interest  for  Manipur,  and  it  had  a  sad 
ending  for .  us,  as  Mr.  Carnegy  was  accidently  shot 
by  a  sentr}T. 

The  "  Kongal  outrage,"  as  it  was  thenceforth 
called,  was  so  serious  and  so  evidently  premeditated, 
that  a  most  thorough  inquiry  was  needed.  It  took 
some  time  to  collect  evidence  as  wounded  men  had 
to  be  brought  in,  and  it  was  the  end  of  the  month 
before  I  was  able  to  proceed  to  the  spot.  At  last  I 
started  and  crossed  the  Yoma  range  of  hills  for  the 
first  time.  What  a  lovely  march  it  was  and  what 
an  anxious  one,  as  I  left  my  wife  not  at  all  well,  and 
no  one  but  an  ignorant  and  not  very  sweet-tempered 
English  nurse  to  look  after  her.  However,  duty 
must  come  first,  and  off  I  started,  posting  relays  of 
ponies  on  the  way  to  enable  me  to  return  quickly 
when  the  wojk  was  done.  Thangal  Major  accom- 
panied me. 

The  first  part  of  our  march  lay  across  the  valley, 
and  we. began  the  ascent  of  the  hills  at  a  place  called 
Ingorok.  After  a  wearisome  ascent  of  3500  feet 
and  a  more  gradual  one  along  the  crest,  we  made  a 
rapid  descent  of  4000  feet  to  the  Turet  river,  where 
we  encamped.  The  river] [runs  at  the  bottom  of  an 


BIRTH  OK:  ANOTHER  -  SON.  -  1 03 

exceedingly  narrow  valley,  and  the  ascent  on  both 
sides  is  one  of  the  most  wearisome  I  have  ever  made. 
On  a  dark  night  lights  on  the  hillside  above,  appear 
as  stars  from  the  bed  of  the  stream.  The  scenery  was 
majestic,  and  the  vegetation  very  fine.  The  next  day 
we  commenced  with  a  steep  ascent  of  2500  feet,  and 
ended  with  a  descent  of  3000  feet  to  the  Maghung 
river.  From  the  Maghung  next  morning  we  started 
for  Kongai  Tannah,  which  we  reached  in  good  time. 
I  carefully  examined  the  place  and  saw  the  charred 
remains  of  the  murdered  men,  and  many  bullets  still 
sticking  .  in  the  stockade.  The  evidence  being  com- 
plete, I  turned  homewards,  and  by  travelling  in- 
cessantly reached  Manipur  next  morning  to  find  that 
my  wife  had  presented  me  with  another  son,  the  first 
pure  European  child  born  in  Manipur.  It  had  been  an 
anxious  time  for  me,  and  I  was  thankful  to  find  both 
her  and  the  baby  well.  We  named  the  baby  Arthur. 
- 1  sent  a  full  report  of  tile  Kongai  case  to  the 
Government  of  India,  and  a  demand  for  reparation 
was  made  at  the  Court  of  Mandalay,  but  it  was  not 
backed  up  with  sufficient  vigour.  The  outrage  was 
unprovoked,  and  nothing  less  than  the  execution  of 
the  ringleaders,  who  were  well  known,  would  have 
satisfied  Manipur,  and,  indeed,  the  claims  ,of  justice, 
but  though  the  case  dragged  on  for  years,  no  redress 
was  ever  given.  I  predicted  at  the  time  that  failure 
to  do  justice  would  eventually  lead  to  underhand 
reprisals  on  the  part  of  Manipur,  as  the  Durbar 
could  not  understand  our  Government  tolerating  an 
attack  of  this  kind  on  a  protected  state,  and  naturally 
ascribed  our  forbearance  to  weakness.  I  shall  have 
to  refer  to  the  case  farther  on.  : 


1(H  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Discussions  as  to  New  Residency  —  Its  completion  —  Annual  boat  races  — 
Kangjoopkool  —  Daily  work  —  Dealings  with  the  Durbar. 


briefly  described  the  old  Residency  which 
was  rented  from  the  Heir  Apparent.  Money  had 
been  sanctioned  for  a  new  Residency,  to  belong  to 
the  British  Government,  but  there  had  been  squabbles 
for  a  long  time  between  my  predecessors  and  the 
Durbar  regarding  a  suitable  site.  Also  such  a 
building  as  was  required  could  only  be  built  with 
the  help  of  the  Durbar  whom  it  was  advisable  to 
conciliate. 

One  of  my  predecessors  wished  to  build  on  a  small 
hill  called  "  Chinga,"  about  a  mile  from  the  palace. 
It  was  an  admirable  site,  and  had  the  position  of  the 
Political  Agent  been  similiar  to  that  in  other  Indian 
States,  it  could  not  have  been  better.  But  in  Mani- 
pur,  the  representative  of  the  Government  of  India 
was  regarded  by  the  Maharajah  as  a  powerful  prop 
and  support  in  case  of  his  throne  being  attacked,  as 
was  constantly  the  case  in  former  years.  On  this 
ground  the  Durbar  objected  that  it  was  too  far  off; 
also  that  the  place  was  reported  to  be  the  residence 
of  an  evil  spirit  inimical  to  the  Royal  family,  so  that 
it  was  not  a  convenient  spot  for  the  Maharajah  to 


THE   NEW   KES1DENCY  105 

visit.     So,   after    many   acrimonious    disputes,    the 
negotiation  fell  through. 

Another  Political  Agent  chose  a  site  called  Ching- 
mai-roong,  which  in  many  ways  was  very  satisfactory, 
and  the  Durbar  reluctantly  consented  to  give  it,  but 
it  was  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  palace,  and  there- 
fore much  out  of  the  way.  The  question  was  still  in 
abeyance  when  I  arrived.  As  soon  as  I  had  time,  I 
discussed  the  matter  with  the  Durbar,  and  found  the 
Maharajah  much  averse  to  my  removal  from  the  old 
site.  He  said  "  Where  you  are  now,  I  can  call  to 
you ;  but  if  you  go  to  a  distance,  I  shall  be  cut  off 
entirely." 

I  quite  saw  the  advisability  of  being  on  the  spot, 
also  in  what  I  may  call  the  fashionable  quarter  of  the 
town ;  and,  as  from  a  sanitary  pcirit  of  view,  the 
position  was  as  good  as  any  other,  I  agreed  to  stay, 
on  condition  that  all  the  squalid  houses  and  slams  in 
the  neighbourhood  were  cleared  away,  dirty  tanks 
filled,  and  others  deepened,  and  a  fine  large  space 
cleared  and  handed  over  to  me.  I  further  insisted 
that  I  should  have  all  the  assistance  necessary  iu 
building  a  suitable  Eesidency.  My  terms  were 
agreed  to,  and  the  work  put  in  hand.  I  determined 
to  have  a  building  worthy  of  the  representative  of 
the  British  Government,  and  sacrificed  everything 
to  suitable  rooms,  and  sound  construction,  so  that  it 
was  not  till  the  end  of  1880  that  it  was  finished. 

I  was  greatly  indebted  to  my  head  clerk,  Baboo 
Rusiii  Lall  Coondoo,  who  acted  as  clerk  of  the  works. 
The  result  was  a  charming  residence.  It  was  in  the 
half-timber  style  of  old  English  houses,  modified  to 
suit  the  climate,  all  on  one  floor,  but  raised  on  a  solid 


IOC  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN  MANiPUR. 

brick  foundation,  which  gave  a  lower  storey  seven 
feet  in  height,  thus  keeping  us  high  and  dry,  the 
house  being  approached  on  four  sides  by  flights  of 
solid  masonry  steps.  The  lower  storey  was  built  so 
as  to  be  shot  proof,  as  I  designed  it  as  a  place  of 
retreat  from  stray  shot  for  non-combatants,  in  the 
event  of  the  Residency  being  again,  as  it  had  been 
before,  subjected  to  a  cross-fire  from  contending 
parties  during  one  of  the  many  revolutions  so  com- 
mon to  Manipur.  Little  did  I  dream  that  folly,  and 
incompetency  would  ever  lead  to  our  being  directly 
attacked  ! 

The  large  compound,  about  sixteen  acres  in  extent, 
was  surrounded  by  a  mud  breastwork  and  ditch,  quite 
capable  of  being  defended,  if  necessary,  and  there 
were  four  entrances  which  I  named  respectively,  the 
Great  Gate,  the  Milking  Gate,  my  cows'-shed  being 
close  to  it,  the  Water  Gate  and  the  Kang-joop- 
kool  Gate.  I  made  a  riding  road  all  round  to  exer- 
cise ponies,  and  besides  making  a  splendid  kitchen 
garden,  adding  considerably  to  Colonel  McCulloch's, 
we  laid  out  flower  beds,  and  had  cool  shady  spots  for 
the  heat  of  the  day.  Deodars  and  other  exotic  trees 
were  imported  by  me  and  throve  wonderfully.  One 
large  sheet  of  water  with  an  island  in  the  centre  was 
cleared,  deepened,  and  the  banks  repaired,  and  as  I 
never  allowed  a  bird  to  be  killed,  it  was  covered 
in  winter  with  water-fowls  to  the  number  of  four 
hundred  and  fifty  or  five  hundred  of  every  kind, 
from  wild  geese  downwards,  and  rare  birds  took 
refuge  in  the  trees.  In  the  north-east  corner  of  the 
compound  were  the  lines  for  my  escort,  with  a  tank 
of  the  purest  drinking  water,  where  formerly  squalor 


THE    HOSPITAL.       -.-  107 

and  filth  had  held  sway.  Finally  I  covered  most  of 
the  large  trees  with  beautiful  orchids,  so  that  in  the 
season  we  had  a  blaze  of  colour.  I  spared  no  expense 
on  the  garden,  and  we  were  rewarded.  Altogether 
the  Residency  and  its  grounds  formed  a  beautiful 
and  comfortable  resting-place. 

The  new  building  was  also  commodious  and  con- 
tained a  handsome  Durbar-room  for  receptions 
24  feet  square,  fine  dining  and  drawing-rooms, 
very  airy  and  comfortable  bedrooms,  etc.,  with  an 
office  for  myself.  The  pantry  was  so  arranged 
that  cold  draughts  of  air,  so  great  a  drawback  in 
Indian  houses  in  cold  weather,  were  avoided  when 
dinner  was  being  brought  in.  The  bedrooms  had 
fireplaces,  and  the  sitting-rooms  excellent  stoves 
which  in  winter  were  very  necessary.  The  shot-proof 
rooms  in  the  basement  were  not  used,  except  one  for 
a  storeroom,  and  the  one  under  the  verandah  of  the 
Durbar-room,  used  as  a  sleeping  place  by  the  men  of 
my  guard.  * 

The  Great  Grate  was  a  picturesque  half-timber 
structure,  with  rooms  on  either  side,  one  of  which  I 
built  specially  as  a  pneumonia  hospital,  so  it  was 
designed  with  a  view  to  maintaining  an  equable 
temperature,  pneumonia  being  a  great  scourge  among 
newly  arrived  Hindoostani  sepoys.  Not  long  after 
I  left,  it  was  diverted  to  other  purposes,  being 
considered  too  good  for  a  hospital ! 

"  With  the  exception  of  the  Residency,  no  house 
when  I  left  Manipur,  was  built  of  brick,  partly  from 
fear  of  earthquakes,  partly  on  account  of  expense. 
The  ordinary  houses  of  the  people  are  huts  with 
wattle  and  daub  or  mud  walls,  those  of  greater  folks 


108  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

the  same,  but  on  a  larger  scale.  Every  house  has  a 
verandah  in  front  with  the  main  entrance  leading 
from  it,  and  a  little  side  door  on  the  north  side  close 
to  the  west  end,  the  houses  invariably  facing  east. 
The  roofs  are  all  of  thatch,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Rajah's,  which  was  of  corrugated  iron.  There  were 
several  temples  built  of  brick  stuccoed  over.  One  in 
the  palace  had  an  iron  roof,  another  a  gilded  one. 
I  sent  some  models  of  these  temples  and  several  other 
buildings  to  the  Indian  and  Colonial  Exhibition  of 
1886,  every  beam  and  rafter  being  represented  and 
made  according  to  scale.  The  larger  of  the  temples 
had  bells  of  a  fine  deep  tone.  Some  of  the  approaches 
to  the  Rajah's  dwelling-house  were  made  of  brick. 
Formerly  the  palace  enclosure  was  entered  from  the 
front  by  a  quaint  and  picturesque  old  gateway,  not 
beautiful,  but  characteristic  of  Manipur ;  the  old  Rajah 
Chandra  Kirtee  Singh  substituted  for  it  a  tawdry 
and  fantastic  structure  with  a  corrugated  iron  roof,  a 
structure  without  any  merit,  and  quite  out  of  keeping 
with  its  surroundings.  I  remonstrated  in  vain;  shoddy 
and  vulgar  tastes  had  penetrated  even  to  Manipur,  and 
the  picturesque  old  building  that  spoke  of  bygone 
ages  was  doomed ;  but  we  who  have  destroyed  so 
many  fine  buildings,  have  little  right  to  criticise. 

'*  Close  to  the  gateway  is  the  place  where  the  grand 
stand  is  erected,  from  which  the  Rajah  and  his 
relations  view  the  boat  races  on  the  palace  moat.  I 
say  *  view,'  as  in  old  age,  a  Rajah  sits  there  all  the 
time ;  but  in  the  prime  of  life  he  takes  part  in  these 
races,  steering  one  of  the  boats  himself.  These  boat 
races  generally  take  place  in  September  when  the 
moat  is  full,  and  are  the  great  event  of  the  year. 


BOAT  EACES.  109 

Every  one  turns  out  to  see  them,  the  Banees  and 
other  female  relations  being  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  moat,  for  in  Manipur  there  is  no  concealment  of 
women,  while  the  side  next  to  the  road  is  thronged 
with  spectators.  The  boatmen  have  a  handsome 
dress  peculiar  to  the  occasion,  and  the  whole  scene  is 
highly  interesting.  The  boats  are  canoes  hewn  out 
of  single  trees  of  great  size,  and  are  decorated  with 
colour  and  carving."  * 

The  valley  of  Manipur  is  hot  and  steamy  in  the 
rainy  season,  and  Colonel  McCulloch  built  a  small  hut 
at  a  place  called  Kang-joop-kool,  situated  on  a  spur 
of  the  Kowpree  range,  to  the  west  of  the  valley  at  a 
height  of  5170  feet  above  the  sea.  The  distance 
from  the  capital  was  fourteen  miles,  and  four  from 
the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  he  lived  there  for  the  whole 
of  the  rainy  season,  except  for  a  few  visits  to  the 
capital.  His  successors  till  my  time  did  not  stay 
there  much,  but  I  bought  a  small  hut  from  my 
immediate  predecessor,  and  pulled  it  down,  and  built 
a  new  one  far  more  commodious.  I  enclosed  the 
land,  and  laid  out  a  small  garden,  and  planted  a  wood 
of  Khasia  pines,  the  land  being  quite  bare,  and  in 
time  it  became  a  most  charming  place.  It  was 
pleasant  to  leave  the  ceremonial  life  at  the  capital, 
where  I  never  walked  out  without  a  train  of  followers 
clad  in  scarlet  liveries,  and  settle  down  quietly  at 
Kang-joop-kool  where  we  could  roam  about  the  hills 
as  if  we  had  been  in  England. 

I  spent  little  or  no  time  in  sporting,  my  eyes  were 
never  very  good,  and  before  I  came  to  Manipur  had 

*  Quoted  by  kind  permission  of  editor  from  my  article  in  Nineteenth 
Century, 


110  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

become  so  deficient  in  what  oculists  call  power  of 
"accommodation,"  that,  though  formerly  a  fairly 
good  shot,  I  was  then  a  bad  one.  In  one  way  this 
was  an  advantage,  as  all  my  interests  were  concen- 
trated on  my  work,  and  nothing  of  greater  interest 
could  have  been  found.  Somehow  or  other,  there 
was  subject  for  conversation  with  State  officials  and 
non-officials,  to  last  me  from  early  morning  till  night, 
and  fill  up  every  spare  moment.  My  door  was 
always  open,  and  the  guard  at  the  great  gate  had 
orders  to  let  every  one  pass.  All  the  minor  gates 
were  unguarded. 

No  attempt  was  made  by  the  Durbar,  as  in  other 
native  states,  to  bribe  the  Residency  servants,  except 
in  one  notable  case  that  happened  before  my  time. 
All  negotiations  were  carried  on  with  the  Political 
Agent  direct,  and  the  penurious  Manipuris  would 
have  thought  it  waste  of  money  to  bribe  his  servants. 
This  was  a  very  satisfactory  state  of  things,  and 
probably  saved  many  unpleasant  complications. 

In  my  dealings  with  the  Durbar,  I  always  tried  to 
bear  in  mind  that  I  was  the  representative  of  the 
strong  dealing  with  the  weak,  and  so  to  ignore  little 
silly  acts  of  self-assertion,  such  as  a  native  court 
loves  to  indulge  in,  and  childish  ebullitions,  as  un- 
worthy of  notice.  Whenever  it  became  necessary 
for  me  to  interfere,  I  did  so  with  great  firmness,  but 
always  tried  to  carry  the  Maharajah  and  his  ministers 
with  me,  and  make  any  desired  reform  appear  to 
emanate  from  him.  Except  on  one  occasion,  I  never 
experienced  any  rudeness  from  an  official. 

At  the  same  time  when  any  attempt  was  made  to 
infringe  on  the  rights  of  the  British  Government  or 


THE  COURT.  Ill 

its  subjects,  I  spoke  in  very  unmistakable  language.  I 
think  the  Durbar  gave  me  credit  for  good  intentions 
and  appreciated  my  desire  to  work  with  them ;  of 
course  they  tried  to  get  all  they  could  out  of  me,  and 
it  was  a  daily,  but,  on  the  whole,  friendly  struggle 
between  us.  I  knew  perfectly  well  that  to  exalt 
themselves,  the  Court  party  spoke  of  me  behind  my 
back  in  disparaging  terms,  and  boasted  of  what  they 
could  do,  and  of  their  independence  of  the  British 
Government,  but  I  was  quite  satisfied  that  they  did 
not  believe  what  they  said,  and  that  in  all  important 
matters  they  deferred  to  me  on  every  point,  and 
were  always  coming  to  me  to  help  them  out  of 
difficulties.  I  kept  in  mind  Colonel  McCulloch's 
wise  saying  to  the  Rajah  :  "  I  don't  care  what  you 
say  of  me,  so  long  as  you  do  as  I  tell  you." 


112  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUK. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Violent  conduct  of  Prince  Koireng — A  rebuke — Service  payment — Ad- 
vantage of  Manipuri  system.  Customs  duty — Slavery — Eeleasing 
slaves — Chowba's  fidelity — Sepoy's  kindness  to  children — Visit  to  the 
Yoma  range. 

AN  incident  occurred  winch  might  have  caused  some 
trouble,  while  it  served  to  show  the  violent  dis- 
position of  Kotwal  Koireng,  later  known  as  the 
Senaputtee.  One  evening  my  Naga  interpreter 
reported  to  me  that  an  Angami  Naga  of  Koliima 
had  been  cruelly  assaulted  by  that  prince,  while  he 
was  passing  along  the  road  to  the  east  of  the  palace 
enclosure.  Soon  after  the  man  was  brought  in  to 
me,  and  an  examination  by  my  native  doctor  proved 
that  he  was  suffering  from  a  severe  contusion  above 
the  right  eye,  which  might  or  might  not  prove  fatal. 
Now,  strictly  speaking,  the  man  was  not  a  British 
subject,  but  some  day  or  other  he  was  sure  to  be  one, 
and  we  had  assumed  an  indefinite  control  over  his 
people.  This  made  me  feel  that  passing  over  the 
offence  as  one  not  concerning  us,  would  be  to  lose 
prestige  with  Manipur,  as  well  as  with  the  Naga 
tribes,  who  ought,  I  felt,  to  be  assured  of  my 
sympathy.  I  therefore  at  once  sent  a  strong  remon- 
strance to  the  Durbar,  claiming  the  man  as  a  British 
subject,  and  demanding  prompt  recognition  of,  and 


THE   SENAPUTTEE.  113 

reparation  for  the  outrage.  On  further  investiga- 
tion it  appeared,  that  the  man  was  with  some  of  his 
friends  carrying  a  large  joint  of  beef  on  his  shoulder 
just  as  Kotwal  Koireng  was  passing,  and  a  few 
drops  of  blood  fell  on  the  ground ;  this  enraged  the 
Prince  so  much  that  he  at  once  attacked  the  man 
with  a  thick  stick  which  he  carried,  and  beat  him 
till  he  was  almost  senseless.  There  was  no  real 
provocation,  as  eating  the  flesh  of  cows  that  had 
died  a  natural  death  was  always  allowed,  and  any 
dead  cow  was  at  once  handed  over  to  the  Nagas  and 
other  hill-tribes ;  it  was  simply  an  outburst  of 
temper.  The  result  was,  that  until  the  man's 
recovery  was  assured,  Kotwal  was  held  in  a  species 
of  arrest;  then  he  was  released  and  sent  with  the 
Jubraj  to  make  an  apology  to  me ;  the  man  received 
a  sum  of  money,  and  the  affair  ended  amicably.  I 
did  not  often  come  across  the  princes,  though  some- 
times I  met  them  out  riding,  and  then  we  were  very 
friendly.  Once  when  I  was  walking  out,  I  met  one 
of  the  younger  ones  riding  in  state  on  an  elephant, 
he  forgot  to  make  the  usual  salutation.  This  was 
reported  to  the  Maharajah,  who  sent  him  with 
Thangal  Major  to  apologize. 

The  Manipuris  paid  very  little  revenue  in  money, 
and  none  in  direct  taxes.  The  land  all  belonged  to 
the  Rajah,  and  every  holding  paid  a  small  quantity 
of  rice  each  year.  The  chief  payment  was  in 
personal  service.  This  system  known  by  the  name 
of  "  Lalloop,"  and  by  us  often  miscalled  "  forced 
labour,"  was  much  the  same  as  formerly  existed  in 
Assam  under  its  Ahom  Rajahs.  According  to  it, 
each  man  in  the  country  was  bound  to  render  ten 

i 


114  MY  EXPEEIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

days'  service  out  of  every  forty,  to  the  Rajah,  and  it 
extended  to  every  class  in  the  community.  Women 
were  naturally  exempt,  but,  among  men,  the  black- 
smith, goldsmith,  carpenters,  etc.,  pursued  their 
different  crafts  in  the  Rajah's  workshops  for  the 
stated  time,  while  the  bulk  of  the  population,  the 
field  workers,  served  as  soldiers,  and  made  roads  or 
dug  canals,  in  fact  executed  great  public  works  for 
the  benefit  of  the  state. 

The  system  was  a  good  one,  and  when  not  car- 
ried to  excess,  pressed  heavily  on  nobody.  It  was 
especially  adapted  to  a  poor  state  sparsely  populated. 
In  such  a  state,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  where 
the  amount  of  revenue  is  small,  and  the  rate  of 
wages  often  comparatively  high,  it  is  next  door  to 
impossible  to  carry  out  many  much-needed  public 
works  by  payment.  On  the  other  hand,  every  man 
in  India  who  lives  by  cultivation,  has  much  spare 
time  on  his  hands,  and  the  "  Lalloop "  system  very 
profitably  utilises  this,  and  for  the  benefit  of  the 
community  at  large.  I  never  heard  of  it  being 
complained  of  as  a  hardship.  The  system  in  Assam 
led  to  the  completion  of  many  useful  and  magnificent 
public  works.  High  embanked  roads  were  made 
throughout  the  country,  and  large  tanks,  lakes, 
appropriately  termed  "seas,"  were  excavated  under 
this  arrangement.  Many  of  the  great  works  of 
former  ages  in  other  parts  of  India  are  due  to  some- 
thing of  the  same  kind. 

It  was  a  sad  mistake  giving  up  the  system 
in  Assam,  without  retaining  the  right  of  the 
state  to  a  certain  number  of  days'  labour  on 
the  roads  every  year,  as  is  the  custom  to  this 


STATE  LABOUR.  115 

day,    I    believe,    in    Canada,    Ceylon,    and    other 
countries. 

Unfortunately,  our  so-called  statesmen  are  carried 
away  by  false  ideas  of  humanitarianism,  and  a  desire 
to  pose  in  every  way  as  the  exponents  of  civilisation, 
that  is  the  last  fad  that  is  uppermost,  and  the 
experience  of  ages  and  the  real  good  of  primitive 
people  are  often  sacrificed  to  this  ignis  fatuus.  I 
hear  that  "  Lalloop  "  has  been  abolished  in  Manipur 
since  we  took  the  state  in  charge.  We  may  live  to 
regret  it;  the  unfortunate  puppet  Eajah  certainly 
will.  Why  cannot  we  leave  well  alone,  and  attack 
the  real  evils  of  India  that  remain  still  unredressed, 
evils  that  to  hear  of  them,  would  make  the  hair  of 
any  decent  thinking  man  stand  on  end  ?  We  have 
still  to  learn  that  the  native  system  has  much  good 
in  it,  much  to  recommend  it,  and  that  it  is  in  many 
cases  the  natural  outgrowth  of  the  requirements  of 
the  people. 

Manipur  in  old  days  required  very  little  to  make 
it  a  model  native  state  of  a  unique  type,  and  its 
people  the  happiest  of  the  happy.  All  it  required 
was  a  better  administration  of  justice,  and  a  few 
smaller  reforms,  also  more  enlightened  fiscal  regula- 
tions such  as  many  European  states  have  not  yet 
attained.  Given  these,  no  one  would  have  wished 
for  more.  No  one  asked  for  high  pay;  enough  to 
live  on,  and  the  system  of  rewards  already  in  force 
from  time  immemorial,  satisfied  all  aspirations.  The 
people  were  contented  and  happy,  and  it  should  have 
been  our  aim  and  object  to  keep  them  and  leave 
them  so.  Shall  we  have  accomplished  this  desirable 
object  when  we  hand  over  the  state  to  its  future 

i  2 


116  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUR. 

ruler,  that  is  if  it  ever  does  again  come  under  a 
Native  Government  ? 

One  of  the  standing  grievances  of  the  Government 
of  India  against  Manipur,  was  the  levying  of  customs 
duties  on  all  articles  imported  into  the  state,  and  on 
some  articles  exported  to  British  territory.  These 
duties  supplied  almost  the  only  money  revenue  the 
Maharajah  had,  and  also  to  some  extent  protected 
Manipuri  industries.  During  my  tenure  of  office  I 
did  something  towards  regulating  the  system,  and 
in  the  case  of  articles  not  produced  in  Manipur, 
induced  the  Durbar  to  lower  the  rates.  In  the  case 
of  cloths,  however,  I  strongly  advocated  the  duties 
being  kept  up,  where,  as  in  the  case  of  coarse  cloths 
the  imports  entered  into  competition  with  the  ex- 
cellent manufactures  of  Manipur,  which  I  wished  to 
see  preserved  in  all  their  integrity. 

Our  system  of  free  trade  has  done  much  to  injure 
useful  trades  in  India,  and  none  more  than  those 
in  cotton  goods.  Among  an  ignorant  people  the 
incentives  of  cheapness  and  outward  appearance  are 
so  great,  that  the  sudden  importation  of  cheap  and 
inferior  foreign  goods  may  kill  out  an  ancient  art, 
and  the  people  only  discover  when  too  late  what 
they  have  lost,  and  then  lament  having  abandoned 
*he  really  good  for  the  attractive  flimsy  article. 
Thus,  in  many  parts  of  India,  the  beautiful  chintzes 
which  were  common  thirty-five  years  ago,  are  now 
nowhere  to  be  had,  and  every  year  sees  the  decay 
of  some  branch  of  manufacture.  This  was  very 
noticeable  in  Assam,  and  the  arts  there  lost  were 
only  kept  up  in  Manipur,  owing  to  its  having  a 
Native  Court  where  tradition  and  taste  encouraged 


SLAVERY.  117 

them.  Soon  after  I  went  to  Manipur,  I  found  that 
the  valley  had  almost  been  drained  of  ponies  by 
their  exportation  to  Cachar.  The  ministers  con- 
sulted me  about  it,  and  I  gave  my  consent  to  the 
trade  being  stopped,  and  this  was  done  for  years 
until  the  numbers  had  again  increased. 

On  the  whole  the  duties  on  almost  every  article 
were  lowered  during  my  term  of  office,  and  the 
imports  largely  increased.  Indeed,  but  for  the 
cumbersome  system  of  levying  the  custom  charges, 
they  would  have  been  no  grievance  at  all ;  and  as  it 
was  they  hardly  added  anything  to  the  cost  of  the 
articles  when  sold  in  Manipur,  many  of  which  could 
be  bought  for  little  more  than  the  price  paid  in 
Cachar,  plus  the  charge  for  carriage. 

Slavery  of  a  mild  form  existed  in  Manipur,  the 
slaves  being  hereditary  ones,  or  people,  and  the 
descendants  of  people  who  had  sold  themselves  for 
debt,  their  services  being  pledged  as  interest  for  the 
debt.  For  instance  a  Naga  (a  very  common  case), 
marries  a  girl  of  another  Naga  village,  thereby  in- 
curring a  debt  of  forty  rupees  to  the  father,  that 
being  the  price  of  a  Naga  bride.  The  man  not  being 
able  to  pay,  his  father-in-law  says,  "  Sell  yourself, 
and  pay  me."  This  is  done,  and  the  man  pays  the 
forty  rupees  and  has  to  work  for  his  master  till  he 
can  pay  the  debt,  something  being  sometimes  allowed 
for  subsistence,  or  they  agree  upon  a  monthly  pay- 
ment, which  if  not  paid  is  added  to  the  principal. 
The  wife  probably  works  and  supports  the  family, 
arid,  if  the  creditor  is  a  fairly  good  fellow,  things  go 
smoothly,  and  the  debtor  never  attempts  to  fulfil  his 
obligations  more  than  he  can  help.  The  law  allows 


118  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUE. 

a  man  to  transfer  his  services  to  any  one  who  will 
take  up  the  debt.  Here  and  there  great  abuses  crop 
up,  and  the  master  takes  advantage  of  the  corrupt 
courts  to  bind  the  slave  more  and  more  securely  in 
the  chains  of  debt,  and  then  every  effort  is  made  to 
escape.  I  often  paid  the  debts  of  slaves  who  came 
to  me  for  help  and  let  them  work  off  the  money. 
Once  a  little  girl  named  Nowbee  came  to  me.  Her 
mother  had  sold  her  to  pay  her  father's  funeral 
expenses.  She  stayed  with  us,  working  in  the 
nursery  for  years,  and  when  I  left  I  forgave  her 
the  remainder  of  her  debt  which  was  unpaid,  as,  of 
course,  I  did  with  all  the  others.  I  once  offered  to 
redeem  the  mother,  who,  in  turn,  had  sold  herself,  but 
the  old  woman  declined,  as  some  one  told  her  that 
we  should  take  her  to  England,  and  she  was  afraid 
to  go.  Sometimes  cases  of  very  cruel  ill-treatment 
came  before  me,  'or  cases  where  people  had  been 
made  slaves  contrary  to  the  laws,  and  then  I  made  a 
strong  remonstrance  to  the  Durbar,  and  insisted  on 
justice.  Once  or  twice  I  took  the  complainants 
under  my  protection  immediately,  and  insisted  on 
keeping  them.  One  day  a  young  man  and  a  small 
boy  came  to  me  for  protection :  the  case  was  a  bad 
one,  and  I  at  once  took  them  into  my  service  as  the 
best  way  of  settling  the  difficulty,  the  young  man  as 
a  gardener  and  the  boy  to  work  in  the  kitchen  and 
wait  at  table  ;  both  were  named  "  Chowba,"  i.e.  big ; 
a  name  as  common  out  there  as  John  in  England. 
We  gave  little  Chowba  clothes,  and  he  stood  behind 
my  wife's  chair  at  dinner,  the  first  evening  crying 
bitterly  from  fear.  However,  he  learned  his  work? 
and  became  an  excellent  servant.  When  I  went  on 


CHILD  STEALING.  119 

leave  in  1882,  I  offered  to  place  him  with  my  locum 
tenens,  but  the  boy  said,  "  No,  sahib,  you  have  been 
kind  to  me ;  I  have  broken  your  things  and  you 
have  threatened  to  beat  me,  but  have  never  done  so ; 
you  have  threatened  to  cut  my  pay,  but  have  never 
done  so ;  I  will  never  serve  any  one  but  you  !  "  The 
poor  boy  kept  his  word ;  he  preferred  hard  toil,  cut- 
ting wood  and  such-like  work ;  but  unfortunately 
died  before  I  returned. 

Another  bad  case  I  remember,  in  which  a  woman 
complained  to  me  that  her  child  had  been  stolen 
from  her  house  while  she  was  away.  I  ordered  the 
child  to  be  brought  to  me ;  the  poor  little  thing  was 
only  four  years  old,  and  could  hardly  stand  from 
having  been  made  to  walk  a  great  distance  by  the 
man  who  had  stolen  her,  and  whose  only  excuse 
was,  that  her  father,  who  was  dead,  owed  him  nine 
rupees.  I  gave  her  to  her  mother,  and  insisted  on 
the  Durbar  punishing  him.  The  story  was  a  sad  one. 
The  father  of  the  child,  a  debtor  slave,  had  been 
told  by  his  master  to  leave  his  home  and  go  with 
him,  and  the  man  in  desperation  attempted  to  kill  his 
wife  and  little  girl,  and  then  committed  suicide. 

While  in  Manipur  I  did  all  I  could  to  afford  re- 
lief in  individual  cases.  It  was  a  great  abuse,  but 
slavery  in  Manipur  must  not  be  put  in  the  same 
rank  as  slavery  in  Brazil,  the  West  Indies,  or 
Turkey  and  Arabia.  A  thorough  reform  of  the 
judicial  system  of  Manipur  would  have  entirely 
taken  the  sting  out  of  it.  All  the  same,  I  wish  I 
could  have  abolished  it. 

My  wife's  nurse  very  speedily  left  us,  and  we 
were  left  to  natives  and  did  much  better  with  them. 


120  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUB. 

We  always  had  three  or  four  Naga  girls  who  did 
their  work  well  in  a  rough-and-ready  way.  Chow- 
bee,  Nembee,  and  Nowbee,  just  mentioned,  were  the 
best.  Chowbee  was  the  wife  of  a  Naga  bearer 
named  Lintoo,  and  Nembee  afterwards  married  our 
head  bearer  Horna.  We  engaged  a  tailor  named 
Suleiman,  brother  of  Sooltan,  one  of  our  chuprassies, 
as  a  permanent  servant,  to  do  the  ordinary  house- 
hold sewing  and  mending.  My  two  boys,  Dick  and 
Edward,  became  very  friendly  with  all  the  people, 
and  were  drilled  daily  by  a  naick  (corporal  of  my 
escort),  and  the  good-natured  sepoys  used  to  allow 
themselves  to  be  drilled  by  the  boys.  One  after- 
noon, I  met  these  two  walking  up  the  lines  with  my 
orderly.  I  asked  what  they  were  going  for,  and  they 
replied  that  the  sepoys  had  not  done  their  drill  well 
that  day,  and  they  were  going  to  give  them  some 
more.  Whenever  a  new  detachment  came,  the  boys 
were  formally  introduced  to  the  new  native  officers 
and  men.  As  they  grew  older  they  learned  to  ride, 
and  rode  out  morning  and  evening  when  I  went  for 
a  walk. 

As  the  Burmese  difficulty  did  not  show  signs  of 
decreasing,  I  went  out  in  February  to  Kongjang  on 
the  Yoma  range,  to  reconnoitre  and  select  a  place 
for  a  new  stockade,  if  necessary.  At  three  and  a 
half  miles  on  my  way,  I  passed  Langthabal,  the  old 
capital  of  Grhumbeer  Singh,  a  pretty  place  where  the 
cantonment  of  the  Manipur  Levy  used  to  be,  and 
where  Captain  Gordon  was  buried  under  a  tree. 
The  ruined  palace  lies  nestling  under  a  hill,  on  a 
spur  of  which  is  a  magnificent  fir  tree ;  behind  the 
palace  a  garden  run  to  waste  and  wood,  with  a  few 


LANQTHABAL.  121 

ponds,  formed  an  admirable  cover  for  ducks,  which  I 
saw  in  abundance.  After  leaving  Langthabal,  we 
passed  a  place  called  Leeiong,  the  place  of  execution 
for  members  of  the  Royal  family,  who  are  sewn  up  in 
sacks  and  drowned  in  the  river.  Farther  on  is  a 
great  fishing  weir,  where  a  small  lake  discharges 
itself  into  a  river.  At  last,  after  a  march  of  thirty 
miles,  I  halted  at  Pullel,  a  village  of  low  caste  Mani- 
puris.  Next  morning  we  ascended  the  Yoma  range, 
reaching  Aimole,  a  village  picturesquely  situated 
and  inhabited  by  a  tribe  of  that  name.  The  head  of 
the  village  was  an  intelligent  old  man,  who  remem- 
bered Captain  Gordon  and  talked  a  good  deal  about 
him.  I  gave  him  a  coat,  and  the  girls  and  boys  of  the 
village  got  up  a  dance  for  my  benefit,  the  most  graceful 
and  modest  that  I  ever  saw  among  a  wild  people. 

I  reached  Korigjang  in  the  afternoon,  a  place 
very  picturesquely  situated,  with  a  fine  view  of  the 
valley  of  the  Lokchao  and  the  hills  beyond,  and  of  a 
portion  of  the  Kubo  valley.  I  selected  a  spot  for  a 
stockade,  and,  after  reconnoitring  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, marched  back  next  day  to  Pullel,  and  thence  to 
Manipur,  again  passing  Langthabal.  I  never  saw 
Langthabal  without  regretting  its  abandonment, 
there  is  something  very  charming  about  the  situa- 
tion, and  it  is  nearer  to  Bissenpore  on  the  Cachar 
road  than  Imphal ;  also  a  few  miles  nearer  the  Kubo 
valley.  It  has  always  had  the  reputation  of  being 
very  healthy,  which  is  not  invariably  the  case  with 
Imphal,  and  is,  if  anything,  a  little  cooler.  Before 
leaving  in  1886, 1  strongly  recommended  it  as  the  site 
for  a  cantonment,  in  the  event  of  troops  being  stationed 
in  the  valley.  My  recommendation  was  adopted. 


122  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANll'UR. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

An  old  acquaintance — Monetary  crisis — A  cure  for  breaking  crockery — 
Rumour  of  human  sacrifices — Improved  postal  system — Apricots 
and  mulberries — A  snake  story — Search  after  treasure — Another 
snake  story — Visit  to  Calcutta — Athletics — Ball  practice — A  near 
shave. 

WE  had  not  been  dull  in  the  Naga  Hills,  still  less 
in  Manipur,  for  I  was  always  interested  in  native 
life.  Something  to  vary  one's  work  was  constantly 
occurring. 

One  day  some  men  in  Shan  costume  came  and 
asked  me  for  a  pass  to  enter  Burmah.  I  inquired 
who  they  were,  and  one  said  he  was  the  Chowmengti 
G-ohain.  I  remembered  him  fourteen  years  before, 
at  Sudya,  in  Assam,  when  he  was  but  a  boy.  He 
was  the  son  of  a  Khampti  chief,  long  since  dead.  I 
asked  him  if  he  remembered  me,  and  after  a  minute 
or  two,  he  did.  I  managed  to  keep  up  a  conversa- 
tion in  Singpho,  though  I  had  not  spoken  it  for 
many  years,  and  have  never  done  so  since.  He  was 
going  to  Mandalay  to  marry  a  daughter  to  the  king. 

Time  went  on  fairly  smoothly.  I  was  occupied 
all  day  long,  and  used  to  talk  for  hours  to  the 
ministers  and  others  who  came  to  see  me,  while  my 
wife  looked  after  the  house  and  children,  and  taught 
the  Naga  girls  to  knit  and  sew,  and  other  useful 
things.  When  the  weather  grew  too  hot,  we 


HOW  TO  STOP  BREAKAGES.  123 

migrated  to  Kang-joop-kool,  and  enjoyed  the  change. 
About  this  time  much  dissatisfaction  was  caused  by 
speculators  in  the  capital  hoarding  "sel,"  the  coin 
of  the  country.  The  usual  rate  at  which  they  were 
exchanged  for  the  rupee  was  480  =  1  rupee,  but 
there  were  occasional  fluctuations ;  large  sums  were 
paid  in  rupees,  but  the  amount  was  always  reckoned 
in  sel.  Consequently,  when  the  latter  were  hoarded, 
a  man  having  only  rupees  in  his  possession  found 
their  purchasing  power  greatly  diminished.  On 
this  occasion,  almost  all  the  "  sel "  in  circulation 
were  collected  in  a  few  hands  and  a  panic  was  the 
result;  the  bazaar  was  in  an  uproar,  and  business 
ceased.  I  spoke  to  the  Maharajah  on  the  subject, 
and  represented  the  very  great  injury  to  the  country 
that  would  inevitably  result  if  immediate  steps  were 
not  taken  to  rectify  the  mischief  done,  and  urged 
him  to  issue  a  large  quantity  of  sel.  This  he  did, 
and  the  exchange  which  had  gone  down  to  240,  at 
once  rose  to  400,  and  at  this  rate  he  fixed  it,  and  so 
it  remained  all  the  time  I  was  in  Manipur. 

Our  Naga  boys,  though  intelligent  and  willing  to 
learn,  were  careless  and  often  worse,  as  in  playing 
and  fighting  with  each  other,  they  broke  much 
crockery,  and  the  loss  was  serious,  as  it  took  months 
to  replace  it.  I  threatened  in  vain,  as  I  could  not 
bear  to  make  the  poor  lads  pay.  At  last,  in  despera- 
tion, I  hit  upon  a  remedy ;  I  said  that  the  next  time 
anything  was  broken,  the  breaker  should  pound  it 
up  to  a  fine  powder  with  a  pestle  and  mortar,  and 
mix  it  with  water  and  drink  it.  This  threat  had 
some  effect,  but  at  last  one  day  the  old  cook  brought 
up  Murumbo,  our  musalchee  (i.e.  dishwasher)  with 


124  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUK. 

a  vegetable  dish  in  pieces,  broken,  as  usual,  in  play. 
I  said  very  severely,  "  Very  well,  grind  it  to  powder 
in  a  pestle  and  mortar,  and  then  you  shall  mix  it 
with  water  and  drink  it."  So  Murumboo  sat  for 
hours  in  the  sun,  pounding  away.  At  last  it  was 
reduced  to  a  fine  powder,  and  I  told  him  to  mix  it 
with  water  and  drink  it  in  my  presence.  Of  course, 
what  I  had  foreseen,  happened,  all  the  other  servants 
headed  by  the  old  cook,  Horna  and  Sultan,  came  up 
and  humbly  begged  that  he  might  be  forgiven  this 
time,  a  request  which  I  graciously  acceded  to,  and 
Murumboo  went  away  very  penitent.  The  result 
was  excellent,  as  for  the  future  I  hardly  lost  any 
crockery.  Poor  Murumboo ;  he  served  me  well,  and 
became  an  excellent  cook  and  got  a  good  place  when 
I  finally  left. 

The  summer  and  autumn  passed  quietly,  except 
for  a  rumour  that  human  sacrifices  had  been  offered 
up,  though  no  actual  complaint  was  made.  I  believe 
the  report  to  have  been  true.  I  had  seen  enough  of 
countries  where  within  a  few  years  they  had  been 
undoubtedly  offered,  to  know  that  such  things  did 
occasionally  happen  among  ignorant  people,  where 
appeasing  evil  spirits  is  a  common  custom.  I  took 
such  precautions  as  effectually  prevented  any  re- 
currence of  this  horrible  practice. 

One  reform  carried  out  was  in  our  postal  arrange- 
ments. When  I  first  arrived,  the  post,  which  came 
in  every  other  day,  frequently  took  eight  days  to 
reach  us  from  Cachar,  a  distance  of  132  miles.  By 
altering  the  system,  I  reduced  it  to  a  maximum  of 
four  days,  though  it  often  came  more  quickly,  and  by 
constantly  hammering  at  all  concerned,  I  achieved 


A   HIDDEN  SNAKE.  125 

the  triumph,  of  a  daily  post  delivered  in  less  than 
two  days  from  Cachar  before  I  left. 

Once  when  riding  between  Manipur  and  Kang- 
joop-kool,  I  saw,  in  passing  a  small  bazaar,  a  woman 
selling  apricots.  I  made  inquiries  about  them,  and 
was  told  that  they  had  existed  from  time  immemorial, 
but  that  they  would  give  me  a  violent  internal  pain 
if  I  ate  them.  I  did  try  them,  raw  and  cooked,  but 
the  statement  was  quite  true,  nothing  made  them 
agreeable,  and  I  did  suffer  pain.  They  were  probably 
introduced  from  China  in  early  days,  and  having 
been  neglected  had  degenerated.  They  blossom  in 
January.  I  tried  Himalayan  apricots,  and  the  trees 
throve  wonderfully,  but  could  never,  while  I  was  in 
Manipur,  learn  to  blossom  at  the  right  time.  They 
blossomed  as  they  were  accustomed  to  do  in  their 
native  country,  that  is  three  months  too  late,  and  the 
fruit  was  destroyed  by  the  early  rains.  Perhaps 
they  have  by  this  time  adapted  themselves  to  the 
climate.  I  introduced  Kabulee  mulberries  and  they 
did  well,  but  those  in  the  valley  grew  long  like  the 
Indian  variety,  while  those  at  Kang-joop-kool  were 
shaped  like  the  common  European  mulberry,  and 
very  good  to  eat. 

Another  time  when  out  riding  in  the  evening,  I 
witnessed  a  strange  sight.  I  was  near  Kooak 
Kaithel  when  I  saw  a  large  number  of  sparrows 
assembled  on  the  road  in  front,  and  perched  on  a 
clump  of  bamboos  near;  others  were  constantly 
joining  them,  and  numbers  were  flying  to  the  spot 
from  all  sides.  They  first  joined  the  assemblage  on 
the  road,  and  then  flew  up  to  and  around  the 
bamboos,  which  were  already  covered  with  the  first- 


126  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

comers.  I  asked  one  of  my  mounted  orderlies  what 
it  all  meant.  He  said  that  a  snake  was  concealed 
among  the  bamboos,  and  that  the  birds  were  come 
to  see  him  and  try  and  drive  him  out.  Whatever 
be  the  explanation,  it  was  a  very  interesting  sight, 
and  I  never  at  any  time  saw  such  a  large  number  of 
small  birds  together.  Once  when  riding  along  this 
same  road,  but  farther  on,  in  company  with  Than  gal 
Major,  I  happened  to  see  a  deep  hole  freshly  dug  in 
the  side  of  a  hill,  apparently  without  any  object.  I 
asked  him  what  it  was  dug  for,  and  he  replied  that 
it  was  probably  some  refugee  returned  to  the  land 
of  his  ancestors,  who  had  dug  it,  in  search  for 
treasure  buried  during  the  Burmese  invasion  by  a 
relation,  who  had  left  an  exact  description  of  the 
spot  as  a  guide  to  any  of  his  descendants  who  might 
return.  He  said  that  there  were  many  cases  of  this 
kind.  I  used  to  hear  the  same  story  many  years 
ago  in  Assam  where  the  truth  was  never  questioned, 
and  many  were  the  tumuli  that  bore  the  marks  of 
having  been  opened  by  searchers  "  for  buried  gold." 
I  never  knew  of  an  authentic  case  of  the  kind  in 
Manipur,  but  doubtless  old  Thangal  could  tell  of 
many  such  ;  possibly  he  had  shared  in  the  proceeds. 

I  have  just  related  a  story  of  birds  attacking  a 
snake,  and  I  may  as  well  tell  another  story  in  which 
one  of  his  tribe  was  the  aggressor.  When  returning 
from  my  cottage  at  Kang-joop-kool,  after  a  day  spent 
there  in  October,  I  saw  an  enormous  python  poised 
up  on  the  high  embanked  road  with  its  head  erect, 
and  body  and  tail  in  coils  on  the  slope,  ready  to 
spring  on  some  young  buffaloes  grazing  near;  it 
must  have  been  at  the  lowest  estimate  thirty  feet 


MISS  LLOYD  ARRIVES.  127 

long  and  of  proportionate  thickness.  I  was  too  near, 
and  riding  too  fast,  to  stop  my  pony,  so  gave  a  loud 
shout,  and  urged  him  to  speed,  and  the  snake  turned 
itself  back  and  fell  with  a  crash  into  a  morass  by  the 
road  side,  and  I  saw  no  more  of  it.  I  spoke  to 
Thangal  Major  about  it,  and  he  told  me  that  pythons 
were  known  to  exist  about  the  place  where  I  saw 
this.  I  once  shot  a  young  one  on  the  Diphoo  Panee 
river,  near  Sudya,  which  measured  nine  feet,  and  a 
sepoy  of  my  old  regiment  shot  one  near  Borpathar 
fifteen  feet  in  length. 

Several  very  deadly  snakes  abound  in  Manipur, 
notably  the  "Tanglei"  and  the  "  Ophiophagus,"  a 
terrible  looking  creature,  eight  to  twelve  feet  in 
length.  No  house  is  safe  from  snakes,  and  in  the 
old  Residency  one  fell  from  the  roof  once  in  my 
bedroom,  from  where  a  few  minutes  previously  the 
baby's  bassinette  had  hung,  so  the  child  had  a  narrow 
escape.  I  never  dare  let  the  children  play  alone  in 
the  garden  for  fear  of  their  being  bitten. 

The  extreme  loneliness  of  Manipur,  and  the 
necessity  of  leaving  my  wife  and  children  quite 
alone  sometimes,  made  me  very  anxious  to  get  some 
trustworthy  English  nurse  for  her,  but  we  quite 
failed  in  doing  so.  In  this  emergency,  one  of  her 
sisters  volunteered  to  come  out,  which  was  a  great 
help  and  relief.  As  I  had  to  go  to  Calcutta  to  see 
the  Viceroy  in  December,  we  asked  her  to  meet  us 
there.  We  left  Manipur  on  November  27th,  1878, 
and  returned  on  January  23rd,  bringing  her  with  us. 
Kohima  was  occupied  by  the  Political  Agent  of  the 
Naga  Hills  (Mr.  Damant),  in  November,  and  before 
leaving  for  Calcutta  I  had  some  correspondence 


128  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

with  him,  and,  at  his  request,  sent  my  escort — 
then  consisting  of  Cachar  Frontier  Police ;  men,  for 
service  qualities  in  the  hills,  far  superior  to  the 
Native  Infantry  I  had — to  his  assistance. 

In  Calcutta,  I  met  Sir  Steuart  Bay  ley,  who  had 
been  lately  appointed  Chief  Commissioner  of  Assam, 
and  had  interviews  with  the  Yiceroy,  Lord  Lytton, 
and  the  Foreign  Secretary,  Mr.  (now  Sir  Alfred) 
Lyall. 

Early  in  1879,  there  was  some  discontent  on 
account  of  the  dearness  of  rice,  owing  to  a  deficient 
crop,  but  there  was  no  real  anxiet}%  as  the  stock  of 
rice  in  hand  was  sufficient.  I  remember  that  during 
that  time  I  was  rather  scandalised  at  hearing  that 
the  old  Ranee  had  gone  off  to  Moirang  on  the  Logtak 
lake  for  change  of  air,  accompanied  by  a  retinue  of 
over  one  thousand  persons.  Many  people  had  been 
emplo}7ed  for  weeks  past  in  building  a  little  tem- 
porary town  for  their  accommodation,  and  all  for  five 
days'  stay.  I  remonstrated  with  Thangal  Major  at 
this  useless  waste  of  resources  at  a  time  when  food 
was  scarce,  and  told  him  that  he  ought  to  prevent 
such  thoughtlessness.  He  told  me,  and  I  believe 
sincerely,  that  he  greatly  regretted  it,  and  promised 
to  use  his  influence  to  amend  matters,  but  said  what 
was  perfectly  true,  that  if  he  gave  good  advice,  there 
were  plenty  of  people  quite  ready  to  offer  the 
reverse,  and  contradict  his  statements.  I  often 
thought  what  an  advantage  it  would  have  been,  if 
we  had  insisted  on  all  authority  being  in  the  hands 
of  one  powerful  minister  responsible  to  us.  Under  a 
strong  man  like  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh  there  would 
have  been  some  difficulty  in  arranging  it,  but  under 


ATHLETIC  SPORTS.  129 

his  weak,  though  amiable  and  intelligent  successor, 
Soor  Chandra,  it  would  have  been  easy,  and  would 
have  saved  us  one  of  the  most  painful  and  disgraceful 
episodes  in  our  history. 

Almost  every  day  brought  some  exciting  news 
from  the  frontier.  One  day,  an  incursion  by  Chussad 
Kukies  on  the  Kubo  side ;  another,  an  outrage  com- 
mitted by  Sookti  Kukies.  Then  a  little  later  a  report 
that  the  Muram  Nagas  were  restless.  All  these 
reports  came  to  me  at  once,  and  I  had  to  decide  what 
was  to  be  done.  Occasionally  an  expedition  was  the 
result,  regarding  the  conduct  of  which  I  gave  general 
instructions.  Sometimes  late  at  night  a  minister 
came  to  me  in  a  high  state  of  excitement  at  some 
outrage  on  the  Burmese  frontier,  in  which,  of  course, 
every  one,  from  the  Court  of  Mandalay  downwards, 
was  said  to  be  implicated.  Anything  against  Burmah 
was  readily  believed,  and  not  without  reason,  perhaps, 
judging  from  past  history,  and  I  had,  on  the  spur  of 
the  moment,  to  decide  on  the  policy  to  be  adopted, 
and  calm  down  and  convince  my  impulsive  visitor. 

Manipur  is  a  great  place  for  athletics,  and  some 
fine  wrestling  is  to  be  seen  there.  Athletic  sports 
are  regularly  held  at  stated  periods,  sometimes  for 
Manipuris,  at  other  times  for  Nagas.  At  the  last 
there  are  races  run  by  men,  carrying  heavy  weights 
on  their  backs.  At  the  conclusion  of  these  exhibi- 
tions of  strength  and  skill,  four  Manipuris,  dressed  in 
Naga  costume,  executed  a  Naga  war  dance.  This  I 
always  thought  the  most  interesting  part  of  the 
performance,  showing  as  in  many  other  cases,  the  tacit 
acknowledgment  of  a  connection  with  the  hill-tribes 
surrounding  them.  It  always  reminded  me  of  the 

K 


130  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MAN1PUR. 

same  connection  between  the  Rajahs  in  the  hill  tracts 
of  Orissa,  Sumlmlpore  and  Chota  Nagpore,  and  their 
aboriginal  subjects.  I  am  rather  inclined  to  believe 
that  in  the  case  of  Manipur  some  of  the  customs 
point  distinctly  to  the  Rajahs  being  descended  from, 
or  having  been  originally  installed  by,  the  hill-tribes, 
as  was  notably  the  case  in  Keonjhur  one  of  the 
Cuttack  Tributary  Mehals,  To  this  subject,  however, 
I  have  already  referred. 

During  each  cold  season,  I  insisted  on  the 
Manipuri  troops  being  put  through  musketry  practice 
with  ball  cartridge,  and  often  attended  for  hours 
together,  with  the  Maharajah,  to  see  how  the  men 
acquitted  themselves.  Sometimes  the  firing  went  on 
all  day,  the  targets  being  erected  at  one  end  of  the 
private  polo  ground  in  the  palace,  with  a  mountain 
of  rice  straw  in  their  rear  to  catch  stray  bullets. 
Sometimes  the  bullets  went  through  everything,  and 
one  evening,  as  my  wife  and  myself  with  the  children, 
were  taking  our  evening  walk,  we  had  ocular 
demonstration  of  this,  as  a  shot  passed  close  to  my 
second  boy's  (Edward)  head.  I  spoke  to  Thangal 
Major  about  it,  suggesting  that  the  pile  of  straw 
should  be  made  thicker,  but  only  elicited  the  reply, 
"  Of  course,  if  you  go  in  the  line  of  fire,  you  must 
expect  to  be  shot."  This  reminded  me  of  my  early 
days  in  Assam,  when  my  old  regimental  friend  Ross 
shot  another  friend  out  snipe  shooting.  The  latter 
complained,  but  all  the  satisfaction  he  got  from  Ross 
was,  "  Well,  you  must  have  been  in  the  way." 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Spring  in  Manipur — Visit  to  Kombang — Manipuri  orderlies — Parade  of 
the  Maharajah's  guards — Birth  of  a  daughter — An  evening  walk  in 
the  capital — Polo — Visit  to  Cachar. 

THE  spring  in  Manipur  is  a  charming  time,  the 
nights  are  still  cool,  though  the  days  are  hot,  and 
abundance  of  flowering  trees  come  into  blossom ; 
among  them  one  that  attains  a  considerable  size, 
called  in  Manipuri  "  Chinghow."  It  has  two  kinds, 
one  with  pink  and  the  other  white  and  pink  flowers, 
Out  in  the  hills  are  wild  pears  and  azaleas  in  abun- 
dance, and  rhododendrons,  while  here  and  there  are 
beautiful  orchids.  The  oak  forests  too  are  splendid 
with  the  fresh  young  leaves,  and  every  hill  village 
has  peach  trees  in  flower,  so  that  it  is  a  delightful 
season  for  marching,  and  one  can  be  out  from 
morning  till  night.  I  took  advantage  of  the  fine 
weather,  and  early  in  April  again  visited  the  Yoma 
range,  and  went  along  the  road  to  Jangapokee 
Tannah,  as  far  as  a  place  called  Kombang,  4600  feet 
above  the  sea.  On  my  way  there  and  back  I  halted 
at  Haitoo-pokpee,  2600  feet  above  the  sea,  where 
the  thermometer  at  sunrise  stood  at  55  and  56 
degrees  respectively ;  but  the  day  between,  when  I 
was  at  Kombang,  it  was  67  degrees  at  sunrise, 
the  additional  elevation  raising  the  thermometer. 

K  2 


132  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

I  noticed  the  phenomenon  over  and  over  again  in 
Manipur,  and  in  the  cold  weather  generally  found 
the  sunrise  temperature  lower  in  the  valley  than  in 
the  hills.  Upland  valleys  were  sometimes  colder  than 
that  of  Manipur,  and  now  and  then  to  the  north  I 
found  very  great  cold  prevailing  on  high  land,  as  at 
Mythephum.  The  day  temperature  in  the  hills  was 
invariably  lower  than  that  in  the  valley,  in  short, 
it  was  more  equable.  The  road  to  Kombang  was 
pretty,  but  the  place  not  particularly  so.  The  night 
I  was  there  I  heard  the  loud  crackling  of  a  burning 

O  C 

oak  forest  set  on  fire  to  clear  the  ground  for  one  crop. 
It  is  difficult  to  speak  with  patience  of  this  abomin- 
able system,  which  is  gradually  clearing  the  hills  in 
Eastern  India,  and  destroying  valuable  timber,  while 
it  encourages  nomadic  habits  in  the  tribes. 

Whenever  I  went  on  an  expedition  into  the  hills, 
besides  the  usual  Manipuri  Guard  in  attendance,  four 
or  five  officers  or  non-commissioned  officers  were  told 
off  to  accompany  me.  Jemadars  Thamur  Singh, 
Sowpa,  Sundha,  Thiit-tot,  and  Thurung  were  those 
generally  sent,  excellent  men  who  never  left  me  from 
morning  till  night,  on  the  hardest  march.  Many 
was  the  adventure  we  had  together,  and  any  one 
of  them  could  inarch  fifty  miles  on  end.  They 
were  well  known  throughout  the  hill  territory  of 
Manipur.  A  bugler  always  formed  one  of  my  party, 
and  it  was  his  duty  to  sound  a  lively  quick  march  as 
we  approached  our  camp  in  the  evening.  Of  course, 
he  always  got  a  special  reward  from  me  on  my 
return  to  headquarters. 

One  day  the  Maharajah  invited  me  to  attend  a  review 
of  his  regiment  of  guards  called  the  "  Soor  Pultun." 


BIRTH  OP  A  DAUGHTER.  133 

I  went,  and  he  asked  me  whether  he  should  put 
them  through  their  manoeuvres  himself,  or  let  one  of 
his  officers  do  it.  Not  wishing-  him,  as  I  thought,  to 
expose  his  ignorance,  I  suggested  the  last ;  but,  to  my 
surprise,  he  conducted  the  pnrade  himself  very  credit- 
ably, giving  the  word  of  command  in  English  with 
great  clearness.  The  men's  marching  was  poor,  and 
the  step  not  free  enough,  but  otherwise  they  did 
well.  They  were  fairly  well  up  in  the  Light 
Infantry  exercises  of  ten  years  back,  and  their  drill 
generally  was  a  slight  modification  of  that  of  1859. 
On  this,  as  on  most  occasions,  when  an  invitation  was 
sent  by  the  Maharajah,  it  was  conveyed  by  two  or 
three  officers  of  not  lower  rank  than  that  of  subadar 
or  captain,  and  generally  by  word  of  mouth.  If  I 
was  away  in  camp  all  communications  were  by  letter, 
sometimes  accompanied  by  a  verbal  message. 

On  February  28th,  1879,  we  were  gladdened  by  the 
birth  of  a  little  daughter.  Being  a  girl,  her  arrival 
did  not  cause  as  much  excitement  as  Arthur's,  but 
when  she  was  old  enough  to  be  carried  out  in  a  small 
litter,  all  the  population  turned  out  to  see  her,  and 
passers-by  would  sometimes  offer  her  a  flower.  How 
interesting  our  daily  walks  were.  Turning  to  the 
left,  after  leaving  our  gate  by  the  guard-house,  we 
passed  along  by  the  wide  moat  surrounding  the 
palace,  and  in  which  as  has  been  said  the  great  annual 
boat  races  were  held.  There,  might  be  seen  women 
washing  their  babies  by  the  waterside  in  wooden 
tubs,  cut  out  of  a  single  block  bought  for  the  purpose. 
At  every  step,  if  in  the  evening,  we  passed  or  were 
passed  by  gaily  clad  women  carrying  baskets  of 
goods  to  sell  in  the  great  bazaar,  "  Sena  Kaithel,"  i.e., 


134  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUIt. 

Golden  Bazaar,  assembled  opposite  the  great  gate  of 
the  palace,  the  picturesque  structure  already  alluded 
to.  In  this  bazaar  the  women  sat  in  long  rows  on 
raised  banks  of  earth,  without  any  other  covering 
in  the  rainy  weather  than  large  umbrellas.  Here 
could  be  bought  cloth  of  all  kinds,  ornaments,  rice, 
etc.,  fowls  and  vegetables.  Dogs  were  also  sold  for 
food.  As  a  rule,  articles  of  food  other  than  fowls, 
were  more  plentiful  in  the  morning  bazaar.  Blind 
people  and  other  beggars  would  post  themselves  in 
different  parts  of  the  market,  and  women  as  they 
passed  would  give  them  a  handful  of  rice,  or  any 
other  article  of  food  they  possessed.  Womeri  are  the 
great  traders,  and  many  would  walk  miles  in  the 
morning,  and  buy  things  in  the  more  distant  bazaars 
to  sell  again  in  the  capital  in  the  evening.  It  was 
not  considered  etiquette  for  men  too  often  to  frequent 
the  bazaars,  and  few  Manipuris  did  so,  but  crowds  of 
hill-rnen  were  constantly  to  be  seen  there,  and  it  pre- 
sented a  very  gay  and  animated  scene,  the  contrast 
between  the  snow-white  garments  of  Manipuri  men, 
the  parti-coloured  petticoats  of  the  women,  and  the 
many-coloured  clothes  of  the  hill-men  being  very 
picturesque.  Opposite  the  great  gateway  on  the 
right-hand  side,  Royal  proclamations  were  posted  up. 
There,  too,  in  presence  of  all  the  bazaar,  offenders 
were  flogged,  generally  with  the  utmost  severity.  This 
was,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  rather  an  attractive  spectacle 
to  foreigners.  Going  through  the  bazaar  along  a  fine 
broad  road,  the  only  masonry  bridge  in  the  country  was 
seen  crossing  the  river,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  the 
road  turned  sharp  to  the  left,  and  went  off  to  Cachar. 
Before  crossing  it,  and  to  the  left  was  a  piece  of 


POLO.  135 

waste  ground  with  a  rather  ill-looking  tree  in  it, 
under  which  men  were  executed.  Opposite,  and  to 
the  right  of  the  road,  was  the  sight  of  the  morning 
bazaar.  Here  I  have  seen  boat-loads  of  pine-apples 
landed,  fruit  that  would  have  done  credit  to  Covent 
Garden. 

Between  the  Eesidency  grounds,  the  "  Sena 
Kaithel "  and  the  great  road,  was  the  famous  polo 
ground,  where  the  best  play  in  the  world  might  be 
seen.  There  was  a  grand  stand  for  the  Royal  family 
on  the  western  side,  and  one  for  myself  on  the  north. 
Sunday  evening  was  the  favourite  day,  and  then  the 
princes  appeared,  and  in  earlier  days  the  Maharajah. 
In  my  time  one  of  the  Maharajah's  sons,  Pucca  Sena, 
and  the  artillery  major,  were  the  champion  players. 
In  Manipur,  every  man  who  can  muster  a  pony 
plays,  and  every  boy  who  cannot,  plays  on  foot. 

But  to  continue  our  walk.  Passing  the  bazaar, 
we  still  skirt  the  palace,  meeting  fresh  groups  and 
turning  sharp  round  at  one  of  the  angles  of  the 
moat,  here  covered  with  water  lilies,  come  upon  an 
exceedingly  picturesque  temple  once  shaded  with  a 
peepul  tree  (Freds  religiosd) ;  this  tree  was  torn  off 
by  the  great  earthquake  of  June  30th,  1880.  After- 
wards taking  two  turns  to  the  right,  and  one  to  the 
left,  and  crossing  a  most  dangerous-looking  bamboo 
bridge,  we  came  upon  a  piece  of  woodland  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  stream.  This  is  the  "  Mali 
Wathee,"  a  bit  of  forest  left  as  it  originally  was  for 
the  wood  spirits.  It  is  now  filled  with  monkeys, 
which  are  great  favourites  with  my  children  who 
have  brought  rice  for  them  which  causes  great 
excitement.  But  it  is  soon  bedtime  for  the  young 


136  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

monkeys,  and  the  river  being1  deep,  they  spring  on 
to  the  backs  of  their  mothers  who  swim  across  with 
them  in  the  most  human  fashion.  Saying  good- 
night to  the  monkeys,  we  go  homewards,  passing 
Moirang  Khung,  a  tumulus  said  to  he  the  site  of  a 
battle  between  the  Mungang  and  Moirang  tribes ; 
to  this  day  a  Moirang  avoids  it.  We  pass  a  couple 
of  boys  riding  jauntily  on  one  pony,  determined  to 
get  as  much  pleasure  out  of  life  as  they  can.  Finally, 
we  reach  home  in  time  for  a  game  with  the  children, 
and  dinner. 

I  have  alluded  to  the  high  esteem  in  which  the 
game  of  polo  was  held  in  this,  its  native  home,  and 
of  the  splendid  play  that  could  be  seen  on  Sundays. 
I  never  played  myself,  much  as  I  should  have  enjoyed 
it.  Had  I  been  a  highly  experienced  player,  able  to 
contend  with  the  best  in  Manipur,  I  might  have  done 
so ;  but  I  did  not  think  I  was  justified,  holding  the 
important  position  I  did,  in  running  the  risk  of  being 
hustled  and  jostled  by  any  one  with  whom  I  played  : 
men  whom  I  was  bound  to  keep  at  arm's  length. 
Had  I  done  so  I  should  have  lost  influence.  I  could 
not  be  hail-fellow-well-met,  and  though  talking 
freely  with  all,  I  at  once  checked  all  disposition  to 
familiarity,  and  people  rarely  attempted  it. 

Colonel  McCulloch,  it  is  true  played,  but  he  began 
life  in  Manipur  as  an  Assistant  Political  Agent,  and 
also  did  not  succeed  to  office  as  I  did,  when  our 
prestige  had  dwindled  down  to  nothing. 

In  September  1879,  hearing  that  Sir  Steuart 
Bayley,  Chief  Commissioner  and  Acting  Lieut.- 
Governor  of  Bengal,  was  about  to  visit  Cachar,  I 
went  there  to  see  him,  performing  the  double  journey 


SIR   STEUART  BAYLEY.  137 

including  a  night  there,  in  less  than  seven  days.  It 
was  the  first  time  I  had  made  the  march  in  the  rainy 
season,  and  I  was  greatly  struck  hy  the  extreme 
beauty  of  the  scenery  which  was  much  enhanced  by 
the  number  of  waterfalls,  that  a  month  later  would 
have  been  dry.  The  masses  of  clouds  and  the  clear- 
ness of  the  air  when  rain  was  not  falling,  added 
greatly  to  the  effect,  and  I  enjoyed  the  journey  till 
I  got  to  the  low-lying  land.  There  the  mud,  slush, 
and  great  heat  were  unpleasant.  It  was  very  satis- 
factory to  be  able  to  discuss  the  affairs  of  Manipur 
with  the  Chief  Commissioner,  as  though  I  was  not 
then  directly  under  him,  I  was  from  my  position 
very  dependent  on  him,  and  was  anxious  to  hear 
his  views  on  many  subjects. 


138  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  XYI. 

Punishment  of  female  criminals — A  man  saved  from  execution — A  Kuki 
executed — Old  customs  abolished — Anecdote  of  Ghumbcer  Singh — 
The  Manipuri  army — Effort  to  re-organise  Manipur  levy — System  of 
rewards — "  Nothing  for  nothing  '' — An  English  school — Hindoo 
festivals — Rainbows — View  from  Kang-joop-kool. 

MANIPUR  professed  to  follow  the  old  Hindoo  laws, 
and  accordingly  no  woman  was  ever  put  to  death,  or 
to  very  severe  punishment.  When  one  was  con- 
victed of  any  heinous  or  disgraceful  offence  she  was 
exposed  on  a  high  platform  in  every  bazaar  in  the 
country,  stripped  to  the  waist,  round  which  a  rope, 
one  end  of  which  was  held  bv  her  guard,  was  tied 

tf 

and  her  breasts  painted  red.  A  crier  at  the  same 
time  proclaimed  her  crime,  and  with  a  loud  voice 
called  out  from  time  to  time,  "  Come  and  look  at  this 
naughty  woman !  " 

Exposure  on  a  platform  was  also  a  punishment 
inflicted  occasionally  on  male  offenders.  Sometimes 
it  was  followed  by  death.  Once  I  saved  a  man  from 
this  part  of  the  sentence,  his  crime  being  one  for 
which  our  law  would  not  have  exacted  so  severe  a 
penalty.  Fortunately,  I  heard  in  time,  and  a  message 
to  the  Maharajah  in  courteous,  but  unmistakable 
terms,  brought  about  a  remission  of  the  capital 
portion.  The  ministers  generally  consulted  me 
before  carrying  out  sentence  of  death.  Once  in  a 


EXECUTIONS.  139 

case  of  murder  by  a  Kuki  they  asked  my  opinion,  so 
I  requested  them  to  send  the  man  to  me  that  I  might 
examine  him  myself.  This  was  done,  and  as  he 
confessed  openly  to  being  guilty,  I  told  them  they 
might  execute  him,  and  as  an  after-thought  said 
"  How  shall  you  put  him  to  death  ?  "  Bularaam 
Singh  replied,  "  According  to  the  custom  of  Manipur, 
in  the  way  in  which  he  committed  the  murder.  As 
he  split  his  victim's  head  open  with  an  axe  so  will 
his  head  be  split  open."  I  said  "  I  have  no  objection 
in  this  case  on  the  score  of  humanity,  but  it  is  not  a 
pretty  mode  of  execution ;  some  day  there  will  be  a 
case  accompanied  by  circumstances  of  cruelty,  when  J 
shall  be  obliged  to  interfere ;  so  take  my  advice,  and 
on  this  occasion  and  all  future  ones,  adopt  decapitation 
as  the  mode  of  carrying  out  a  death  sentence.  You 
can  do  it  now  with  a  good  grace,  and  without  any 
apparent  interference  on  my  part  to  offend  your 
dignity."  Old  Bularaam  Singh  said,  "  Oh  no,  the 
laws  of  Manipur  are  unalterable,  we  cannot  change ; 
we  must  do  as  we  have  always  done."  I  said, 
"  Nonsense,  my  old  friend,  go  with  Chumder  Singh 
(my  native  secretary  and  interpreter)  and  give  my 
kind  message  to  the  Maharajah,  and  say  what  I 
advise,  as  his  friend."  In  half-an-hour  Chumder 
Singh  returned  with  an  assurance  that  my  advice 
was  accepted,  and  from  that  time  decapitation  was 
the  form  of  capital  punishment  adopted. 

I  never  knew  a  case  of  torture  being  employed, 
but  otherwise  the  laws  were  carried  out  with 
severity.  Ghumbeer  Singh  (reigned  1825-34) 
occasionally  tore  out  an  offender's  eyes,  but  such 
things  had  been  forgotten  in  the  days  of  his  son,  and 


140  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

though  the  Government  was  strong,  probably  there 
were  fewer  acts  of  cruelty  than  in  most  native  states. 
Once  when  Ghumbeer  Singh  had  lately  introduced 
tame  geese  into  the  country ;  he  gave  two  to  a 
Brahmin  to  take  care  of.  It  was  reported  that  a 
goose  was  dead.  "Tell  the  Brahmin  to  eat  it,"  said 
the  indignant  Rajah.  The  severity  of  such  an  order 
to  a  Hindoo  will  be  appreciated,  by  any  one  knowing 
what  loss  of  caste  entails.  Ghumbeer  Singh's  orders 
were  always  implicitly  obeyed,  so  I  am  afraid  that 
the  sentence  was  carried  into  effect. 

The  army  consisted  of  about  5000  men  at  the  out- 
side, in  eight  regiments  of  infantry  and  an  artillery 
corps.  The  famous  cavalry  was  a  thing  of  the  past, 
and  many  of  the  infantry  were  quite  unacquainted 
with  drill.  There  were  eight  three-pounder  brass 
guns,  and  two  seven-pounder  mountain  guns  given 
as  a  reward  for  services  in  the  Naga  Hills,  one  of 
which  did  admirable  service  in  the  Burmese  war. 
Most  of  the  infantry  were  armed  with  smooth-bore 
muskets,  some  being  of  the  Enfield  pattern.  Besides 
the  above,  there  were  about  1000  to  12,000  Kuki 
Irregulars.  A  Manipuri  military  expedition  was  a 
strange  sight,  the  men  besides  their  arms  and 
ammunition  carrying  their  spare  clothes,  cooking 
vessels,  food,  etc.,  on  their  backs.  All  the  same,  they 
could  make  Jong  and  tiring  marches  day  after  day 
on  poor  fare  and  without  a  complaint,  and  at  the  end 
of  a  hard  day  would  hut  themselves  and  fortify  their 
position  with  great  skill,  however  great  the  fatigue 
they  had  undergone.  It  was  a  standing  rule  that 
in  an  enemy's  country  a  small  force  should  always 
stockade  itself,  and  a  Manipuri  army  well  commanded. 


A  MANIPURI  TRIUMPH.  141 

was  then  able  to  hold  its  own  against  a  sudden  attack. 
On  their  return  from  a  successful  expedition  the 
troops  were  greatly  honoured,  and  the  general  in 
command  accorded  a  kind  of  triumph,  and  it  was  an 
interesting  sight  to  see  the  long  thin  line  of  pic- 
turesque and  often  gaily-clad  troops,  regulars  and 
irregulars  winding  their  way  through  the  streets 
and  groves  of  the  capital  bearing  with  them  spoils 
and  trophies  gained  in  war.  Here  a  party  headed 
by  banners,  there  some  Kukis  beating  small  gongs 
and  chanting  in  a  monotonous  tone.  Finally,  after 
marching  round  two  sides  of  the  palace,  they  enter 
by  the  great  gate,  pass  between  the  Chinese  walls, 
and  again  between  the  two  lions  (so  called),  and 
being  received  by  the  Maharajah  at  the  Gate  of 
Triumph,  their  General  throws  himself  at  his  feet  and 
receives  his  chief's  benediction,  the  greatest  reward 
that  he  can  have. 

I  realised  from  the  first  that  it  would  be  an 
immense  advantage  to  reconstitute  the  Manipur 
Levy,  and  keep  up  a  permanent  force  of  800  men 
under  my  direct  orders,  properly  paid,  armed,  clothed 
and  disciplined.  I  foresaw  that  a  war  with  Burmah 
was  a  mere  question  of  time,  and  wished  to  have  a 
force  ready,  so  as  to  enable  the  British  Government 
to  act  with  effect  at  a  moment's  notice  through 
Manipur,  on  the  outbreak  of  hostilities.  Regular 
troops  eat  no  more  than  irregular,  and  are  ten  times 
as  valuable.  My  plan  was  to  have  800  men  enlisted, 
of  whom  200  would  have  come  on  duty  in  rotation, 
according  to  the  Manipur  system,  all  being  liable  to 
assemble  at  a  moment's  notice.  Thus  a  splendid 
battalion  of  hardy  men  could  have  been  formed, 


142  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIHJR, 

with  which  I  could  have  marched  to  Maridalay. 
Such  a  force  would  have  been  absolutely  invaluable 
when  the  war  broke  out  in  1885,  men  able  to  stand 
the  climate,  march,  fight,  row  boats,  dig,  build 
stockades,  in  fact  do  all  that  the  best  men  could  be 
called  upon  to  do.  However,  to  my  great  disappoint- 
ment, the  idea  did  not  commend  itself  to  Government, 
and  I  never  ceased  to  regret  it.  I  often  later  on 
thought  of  the  lives  and  money  that  might  have  been 
saved  in  1885-86  had  we  been  better  prepared,  the 
cost  of  the  proposed  levy  would  have  been  trifling. 

One  part  of  the  Manipuri  system  ever  struck  me 
as  very  admirable,  and  I  tried  always  to  encourage 
it;  that  was  the  system  of  rewarding  services  by 
honorary  distinctions.  The  permission  to  wear  a 
peculiar  kind  of  turban,  coat,  or  feather,  or  to  assume 
a  certain  title  was  more  valued  than  any  money 
reward,  and  men  would  exert  themselves  for  years 
for  the  coveted  distinction.  It  is  charming  to  see 
such  simple  tastes  and  to  aspire  no  higher  than  to 
do  one's  duty  and  earn  the  approval  of  our  fellow- 
creatures. 

One  day  the  two  ministers  Thangal  Major  and 
Bularaam  Singh  came  to  see  me,  accompanied  by 
old  Rooma  Singh  Major.  They  looked  rather  un- 
easy, and  I  suspected  something  was  coming  out. 
Presently  Thangal  rose  and  saluted  me,  and  said, 
"  The  Maharajah  has  promoted  us  to  be  generals." 
I  received  the  intelligence  without  any  enthusiasm, 
feeling  assured  that  the  act  had  been  dictated  by  a 
desire  to  give  them  a  more  high-sounding  title  than 
my  military  one,  I  being  then  only  a  lieut.-colonel. 
It  was  in  fact  a  piece  of  self-assertion.  Any  one 


NEW   TITLES.  143 

understanding  Asiatics  will  know  what  I  mean,  and 
that  I  knew  instinctively  it  was  a  move  in  the  game 
against  me  which  I  ought  to  check.  I  coldly  replied 
that  of  course  the  Maharajah  would  please  himself, 
but  that  I  loved  old  things,  old  names,  and  old  faces, 
and  that  I  had  so  many  pleasant  associations  with 
the  old  titles  that  I  could  not  bring  myself  to  use 
the  new  ones,  and  should  continue  to  call  them  by 
the  dear  old  name  of  Major.  I  then  shook  hands 
with  them  most  cordially  and  said  good-bye,  and 
they  left  rather  crestfallen,  where  they  had  hoped 
and  intended  to  be  triumphant.  I  may  as  well  tell 
the  remainder  of  the  story.  Time  after  time  was  I 
begged  to  address  my  three  friends  as  "  General," 
but  I  was  inexorable,  and  the  titles  almost  fell  into 
disuse  among  the  Manipuris  who  had  at  first  adopted 
them.  Old  Thangal  once  had  a  long  talk  about  it, 
and  I  said  plainly,  "  I  give  nothing  for  nothing : 
some  day  when  you  do  something  I  shall  address 
you  as  General."  Years  passed.  I  went  on  leave, 
and  my  locum  tenens  too  good-naturedly  gave  in,  and 
addressed  them  as  General,  and  even  induced  the 
Chief  Commissioner  of  the  day  to  do  likewise.  When 
he  wrote  to  me  and  told  me  of  it,  I  was  naturally  not 
very  pleased,  and  mentioned  it  to  an  old  Indian 
friend,  who  said,  "  Well,  you  will  have  to  do  the 
same  now  that  the  Chief  Commissioner  has."  How- 
ever, I  was  not  going  to  swerve  from  my  word.  I 
returned  to  Manipur,  and  one  of  the  ministers  met 
me  on  the  boundary  river.  I  again  greeted  him  as 
"Major  Sahib,"  and  immediately  the  new  titles 
again  began  to  fall  into  disuse.  I  told  the  Chief 
Commissioner  my  views  when  I  next  met  him, 


144  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

and  he  approved,  as  I  said  I  could  not  alter  my 
word. 

Some  time  after  this  I  again  renewed  efforts  that 
I  had  long  been  making  for  the  establishment  of  an 
English  school  in  Manipur.  The  Durbar  naturally 
objected ;  wisely  from  their  point  of  view,  they  knew 
as  well  as  I  did  that  the  fact  of  their  subjects  learning 
English  would  eventually  mean  a  better  administra- 
tion of  justice,  and  a  gradual  sweeping  away  of 
abuses.  I  felt,  however,  that  the  time  was  come, 
and  I  urged  the  question  with  great  force,  and  one 
day  said  to  the  ministers,  "You  have  long  wanted  to 
be  addressed  as  *  General,'  and  I  told  you  that  when 
you  did  something  worthy  of  it  I  should  do  so. 
Now  the  day  that  the  Maharajah  gives  his  consent 
to  an  English  school  being  established,  I  shall 
address  you  as  General."  A  few  days  afterwards 
the  Maharajah's  consent  was  brought.  I  immediately 
stood  up  and  shook  hands  most  warmly  with  them, 
saying,  "I  thank  you  cordially,  Generals."  From 
that  day  the  question  was  finally  set  at  rest,  after 
years  of  longing  on  the  part  of  the  old  fellows.  We 
had  always  understood  each  other,  and  they  felt  and 
respected  the  part  I  had  taken,  and,  I  believe,  valued 
their  titles  all  the  more  from  my  not  having  given 
in  at  once. 

The  Rath  Jatra  Festival,  i.e.,  the  drawing  of  the 
Car  of  Juggernaut,  is  greatly  honoured  in  Manipur, 
and  every  village  has  its  Rath  (car).  The  Dewali, 
the  feast  of  lights,  is  also  faithfully  kept.  Also  the 
Rathwal,  one  of  the  feasts  of  Krishna,  when  there 
are  many  dances,  and  an  enormous  bird  is  cleverly 
constructed  of  cloth  with  a  bamboo  framework,  and 


FESTIVALS.  145 

a  man  inside,  who  struts  about  to  the  delight  of  the 
children.  The  Koli  Saturnalia  is  also  duly  cele- 
brated ;  the  red  powder  "  Abeer,"  is  thrown  about 
amongst  those  who  can  get  it,  and  the  burning  of 
the  temporary  shrines  lights  up  the  sky  at  night, 
and  the  holes  where  the  poles  stood,  are  a  fertile 
source  of  danger  to  ponies  and  pedestrians  for  weeks 
afterwards.  The  Durga  Poojah  is  kept,  but  is  a 
feast  of  minor  importance.  At  the  Rath  Jatra  the 
number  of  people  drawn  together  was  enormous, 
and  the  white  mass  could  be  very  distinctly  seen 
from  Kang-joop-kool  with  a  telescope,  when  the 
weather  was  clear.  This  view  was  sometimes 
obscured  by  clouds,  and  often  when  staying  there 
did  I  wake  up  to  see  the  whole  of  the  valley  filled 
up  with  fog,  like  a  vast  sea  of  cotton-wool,  stretch- 
ing across  to  the  Yoma  range  of  hills  many  miles 
away. 

Lunar  rainbows  were  not  uncommon  in  Manipur, 
and  I  often  saw  them  from  Kang-joop-kool.     Oftei 
too,  from  thence  have  I  seen  a  complete  solar  rain- 

••-      -f.>y---ji^M»- -,  u *«<•**  ^ 

bow,  each  end  resting  on  the  level  surface  of  the 
valley.  Once,  in  riding  to  Sengmai  on  a  misty 
morning,  I  saw  a  white  rainbow  rising  from  the 
ground  ;  a  fine  and  weird  sight  it  was. 

The  view  over  the  valley  at  night  from  the  sur- 
rounding hills  was  sometimes  wonderful.  I  never 
shall  forget  one  night  in  the  rainy  season,  when  the 
moon  was  shining  brightly  in  the  valley,  but  obscured 
from  my  view  by  an  intervening  cloud  ;  the  bright 
reflection  on  the  watery  plain  sent  out  a  long  stream 
of  light  which  brightened  up  the  glistening  temples 
of  the  Capelat.  This,  and  the  dim  hills  in  the  distance, 

L 


146  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

and  the  whole  amphitheatre  enclosed  by  them  lighted 
up  faintly,  while  the  dark  threatening  cloud  hanging 
in  air  between  me  and  the  rising  moon,  that  had  not 
yet  apparently  reached  my  level  (I  was  2500  feet 
above  the  valley,  and  seemed  to  be  looking  down  on 
the  moon),  made  a  picture  never  to  be  forgotten. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mr.  Damant — The  Naga  Hills — Rumours  on  which  I  act — News  of  revolt 
in  Naga  Hills  and  Mr.  Damant's  surrender — Maharajah's  loyalty — 
March  to  the  relief  of  Kohima — Belief  of  Kohima — Incidents  of  siege 
— Heroism  of  ladies — A  noble  defence. 

IN  November,  1878,  Mr.  Damant  removed  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Naga  Hills  District  from  Samagud- 
ting  to  Kohima,  and  established  himself  there  with 
his  party,  in  two  stockades.  He  had  a  very  ample 
force  for  maintaining  his  position,  but  he  had  not 
sufficient  to  make  coercing  a  powerful  village  an 
easy  task.  He  was  an  able  man,  with  much  force  of 
character,  high-minded  and  upright,  and  had  been 
greatly  respected  in  Manipur,  where  he  acted  as 
Political  j^gent  for  some  months  after  Dr.  Brown's 
death.  He  was  also  a  scholar,  and  was  perhaps  the 
only  man  of  his  generation  in  Assam  capable  of 
taking  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  languages  of  the 
Eastern  Frontier,  and  searching  out  their  origin. 
His  premature  death  was  an  irreparable  loss  to 
philology. 

With  all  this  he  had  not  had  sufficient  experience 
with  wild  tribes  to  be  a  fit  match  for  the  astute 
Nagas,  and  was  constantly  harassed  by  the  difficulty 
in  the  way  of  securing  supplies,  which  ought  to  have 
been  arranged  for  him,  in  the  early  days  of  our 

L  2 


148  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

occupation  of  Samagudting,  by  making  terms  with 
the  Nagas  as  to  providing  food  carriage.  It  was  his 
misfortune  that  he  inherited  an  evil  system.  We 
had  been  forced  into  the  hills  by  the  lawlessness  of 
the  Naga  tribes,  and  we  ought  to  have  made  them 
bear  their  full  share  of  the  inconveniences  attendant 
on  our  occupation,  instead  of  making  our  own  people 
suffer. 

Mr.  Damant  at  first  contemplated  getting  his 
supplies  from  Manipur,  through  the  Durbar,  but 
they  objected,  it  being  their  traditional  policy  to 
prevent  the  export  of  rice  for  fear  of  famines,  the 
distance  and  cost  of  transport  making  the  import,  in 
case  of  scarcity,  an  impossibility.  I  declined  to  put 
pressure,  as  I  saw  the  reasonableness  of  tbe  Durbar 
argument,  and  I  objected  to  force  the  hill  population 
of  Manipur  to  spend  their  time  in  carrying  heavy 
loads,  to  save  the  turbulent  and  lazy  Angamis.  In 
September,  1879,  however,  I  heard  a  rumour  from 
native  sources  that  Mr.  Damant  was  in  great  diffi- 
culties and  straits  for  want  of  provisions,*  and  I 
wrote  and  told  him  that  if  it  were  true,  I  would  make 
every  effort  to  send  him  some  supplies,  and  to  help 
him  in  every  way  I  could.  I  did  not  receive  any 
answer  to  this  letter,  and  subsequently  ascertained 
that  it  had  never  reached  him. 

I  knew  the  Angamis  well,  and  was  very  anxious 
about  Mr.  Damant  and  his  party,  and  felt  sure  that 
some  trouble  was  at  hand. 

About  this  time  my  wife's  health  began  to  give 
me  much  anxiety ;  she  had  one  or  two  severe  attacks 
of  illness,  and  was  much  reduced  in  strength.  Who 

*  It  will  be  seen  later  on  that  this  rumour  was  net  cinxct. — FD. 


EEPOBT   OP   DISASTER.  149 

that  has  not  experienced  it  can  imagine  the  terrible, 
wearing  anxiety  of  life  on  a  distant  frontier,  without 
adequate  medical  aid  for  those  nearest  and  dearest 
to  us.  She  was  better,  though  still  very  weak,  when 
an  event  occurred  that  shook  the  whole  frontier. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  October  21st,  I  received 
a  report  from  Mao  Tannah,  the  Manipuri  outpost  on 
the  borders  of  the  Naga  Hills,  to  the  effect  that  a 
rumour  had  reached  the  officer  there,  that  the 
Mozuma  Nagas  had  attacked  either  Kohima,  or  a 
party  of  our  men  somewhere  else,  and  had  killed  one 
hundred  men.  I  have  already  mentioned  my  anxiety 
about  Mr.  Damant's  position,  and  there  was  an  air  of 
authenticity  about  the  report  which  made  me  feel 
sure  that  some  catastrophe  had  occurred,  and  that  he 
was  in  sore  need.  I  said  to  Thangal  Major,  "  We 
will  take  off  fifty  per  cent,  for  exaggeration,  and 
even  then  the  garrison  of  Kohima  will  be  so  weakened 
that  it  is  sure  to  be  attacked,  and  there  will  be  a 
rising  in  the  Naga  Hills." 

I  instantly  took  my  resolve  and  detained  my 
escort  of  the  34th  B.I.,  which  had  just  been 
relieved  by  a  party  of  Frontier  Police,  and  was 
about  to  march  for  Cachar.  I  also  applied  to  the 
Maharajah  for  nine  hundred  Manipuris,  and  sufficient 
coolies  to  convey  our  baggage.  He  at  once  promised 
them,  and  I  made  arrangements  to  march  as  soon  as 
the  men  were  ready ;  but  there  was  some  delay,  as 
the  men  had  to  be  collected  from  distant  villages. 
The  next  morning,  before  sunrise,  Thangal  Major 
came  to  see  me,  bringing  two  letters  from  Mr. 
Cawley,  Assistant  Political  Agent,  Naga  Hills,  and 
District  Superintendent  of  Police.  The  letters  told 


150  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

me  that  Mr.  Damant  had  been  killed  by  the  Konoma 
men,  and  that  he  and  the  remainder  were  besieged 
in  Kohima,  and  sorely  pressed  by  Nagas  of  several 
villages.  Immediately  after  this,  the  Maharajah 
himself  came  and  placed  his  whole  resources  at  my 
disposal,  and  asked  me  what  I  would  have.  I  said 
two  thousand  men,  and  he  replied  that  that  was  the 
number  he  himself  thought  necessary,  and  asked  if 
he  should  fire  the  usual  five  alarm  guns,  as  a  signal 
to  call  every  able-bodied  man  to  the  capital.  I  con- 
sented, and  in  ten  minutes  they  thundered  forth 
their  summons.  Coolies  to  carry  the  loads  were  the 
chief  difficulty,  as  they,  being  hill-men,  lived  at  a 
greater  distance.  I  also  despatched  a  special  mes- 
senger to  Cachar  to  ask  for  more  troops  and  a  doctor ; 
and  I  made  arrangements  for  assisting  them  on  the 
road.  I  despatched  two  hundred  Manipuris  by  a 
difficult  and  little-frequented  path  to  Paplongmai 
(Kenoma*),  to  make  a  diversion  in  the  rear  of 
Konoma,  as,  from  all  I  heard,  it  seemed  that  the 
astute  Mozuma  was  not  involved.  I  sent  on  a  man 
I  could  trust  to  the  Mozuma  people,  to  secure  their 
neutrality.  I  also  sent  my  Naga  interpreter, 
Patakee,  to  Kohima,  to  do  his  best  to  spread  dis- 
sension amongst  its  seven  different  clans  and  prevent 
their  uniting  against  me.  I  gave  him  a  pony,  and 
told  him  to  ride  it  till  it  dropped  under  him,  and 
then  to  march  on  foot  for  his  life,  and  promised  him 
200  rupees  reward  if  he  could  deliver  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Cawley  before  the  place  fell.  In  the  letter  I  begged 
Mr.  Cawley  to  hold  out  to  the  last  as  I  was  marching 
to  his  assistance. 

*  A  different  place  from  Konoma. — ED. 


MARCH  TO  KOHIMA.  151 

One  day,  about  a  year  before,  a  fine  young  Naga 
of  Viswema,  a  powerful  village  of  1000  houses,  a  few 
miles  beyond  the  frontier  of  Manipur  and  right  on 
our  track,  had  come  to  me  and  asked  me  to  take  him 
into  my  service.  I  did  so,  thinking  he  might  be 
useful  some  day,  and  now  that  the  day  had  arrived, 
I  sent  him  off  to  his  people  to  win  them  over, 
threatening  to  exterminate  them  if  they  opposed  my 
march. 

I  had  fifty  men  of  the  Cachar  Police  and  thirty- 
four  of  the  34th  B.I.,  including  two  invalids,  one  of 
them  a  Naik,  by  name  Buldeo  Doobey,  who  came  out  of 
hospital  to  go  with  me,  as  I  wanted  every  man  who 
could  shoulder  a  musket.  For  the  same  reason  I 
enlisted  a  volunteer,  Narain  Singh,  a  fine  fellow,  a 
Jat*  from  beyond  Delhi,  who  had  served  in  the 
35th  B.I.,  so  he  took  a  breach-loader  belonging  to  a 
sick  man  of  the  34th.  I  shall  refer  to  him  again. 
He  carried  one  hundred  and  twenty  rounds  of  ball 
cartridge  on  his  person,  three  times  as  much  as  the 
men  of  the  34th.  I  sent  off  my  combined  escort  with 
all  the  Manipuris  who  were  ready  under  Thangal 
Major,  and  stayed  behind  to  collect  and  despatch 
supplies  and  write  official  letters  and  send  off  tele- 
grams to  Sir  Steuart  Bay  ley,  and  on  the  23rd  rode 
out,  and  caught  up  my  men  at  Mayang  Khang,  forty 
miles  from  Manipur.  The  rear-guard  of  the  34th 
had  not  come  up  when  I  went  to  bed  that  night 
at  11  P.M. 

I  left  my  poor  wife  still  very  weak  and  I  was 
thankful  that  she  had  her  good  sister  as  a  stay  and 
support.      Just   before   leaving,   our  youngest  boy 
*  A  Sikh.— ED. 


152  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

Arthur  held  out  his  arms  to  be  taken.  I  paused 
from  my  work  for  a  moment  and  took  him.  It  was 
the  last  time  I  saw  him.  Sad  as  was  my  parting,  I 
rode  off  in  high  spirits ;  who  would  not  do  so  when 
he  feels  that  he  may  be  privileged  to  do  his  country 
signal  service !  Besides,  I  hoped  to  find  all  well 
when  I  returned. 

We  left  Mayang  Khang  on  October  24th  and 
marched  to  Mythephum,  twenty  miles  along  a 
terribly  difficult  mountain  path,  much  overgrown  by 
jungle.  It  was  all  I  could  do  to  get  the  34th  along, 
as  they  were  completely  knocked  up.  I  had  a  pony 
which  I  lent  for  part  of  the  way  to  one  of  my 
invalids  and  so  helped  him  on,  I  was  continually 
obliged  to  halt  myself  and  wait  for  the  stragglers, 
cheer  them  up,  and  then  run  to  the  front  again. 
Narain  Singh  was  invaluable  and  seemed  not  to 
know  fatigue.  We  reached  Mythephum  after  dark, 
but  the  rear-guard  did  not  arrive  till  next  morning. 

At  Mythephum  I  mustered  my  forces.  The  Ma- 
harajah had  sent  the  Jubraj  and  Kotwal  Koireng 
with  me  (little  did  I  think  of  the  fate  in  store  for 
them  and  for  old  Thangal*)  and  found  that  very  few 
Manipuris  had  arrived,  and  almost  all  of  the  force 
with  me  were  so  knocked  up  that,  to  my  intense 
disappointment,  I  had  to  make  a  halt.  I  was  too 
restless  to  sit  still,  so  spent  the  day  in  reconnoitring 
the  country.  In  the  evening  I  had  an  interview 
with  Thangal  Major  and  afterwards  with  the  Jubraj. 

*  The  Jubraj,  who  afterwards  reigned  as  the  Maharajah  Soor  Chandra 
Singh,  died  in  exile ;  Kotwal  Koireng  and  Thangal  Major  were  hanged  in 
August,  1891,  by  order  of  the  sentence  passed  upon  them  for  resisting  the 
British  Government. — ED. 


THE  JUBRAJ.  153 

Old  Thangal  was  for  halting  till  we  could  collect  a 
large  force  as  he  said  a  large  one  was  required,  and 
he  begged  me  to  halt  for  a  few  days.  I  finally 
pointed  out  that  a  day's  halt  might  cause  the  annihi- 
lation of  the  garrison  of  Kohima,  and  said  that  if  the 
Manipuris  were  not  ready  to  move,  I  would  go  along 
with  any  of  my  own  men  who  could  march.  I 
appealed  to  the  Jubraj  to  support  me  which  he  did,* 
and  for  which  I  was  ever  grateful,  and  we  arranged 
to  march  next  day.  I  found  that  the  Nagas  of 
Manipur  were  infected  with  a  rebellious  spirit,  and 
not  entirely  to  be  depended  on,  and  any  vacillation 
on  our  part  might  have  been  fatal,  and  would  cer- 
tainly have  sealed  the  fate  of  Kohima. 

We  left  Mythephum  at  daybreak  on  the  26th,  and 
marched  as  hard  as  we  could,  as  I  hoped  to  cover  the 
forty  miles  to  Kohima  by  nightfall.  We  stopped  to 
drink  water  at  the  Mao  river,  which  we  forded,  and 
to  prevent  men  wasting  time,  I  drew  my  revolver 
and  threatened  to  shoot  any  one  who  dawdled.  We 
ascended  the  steep  hillside,  and  passing  through  one 
of  the  villages  inarched  on  to  Khoijami,  a  village  on 
the  English  side  of  the  border.  We  had  been  so 
long,  owing  to  the  extreme  badness  of  the  roads,  and 
the  fatigue  of  the  men,  that  we  only  reached  it  at 
3  P.M.,  so  I  reluctantly  halted  for  the  night. 

Here  my  emissary  to  Viswema  joined  me,  and  told 
me  that  he  had  induced  his  fellow-villagers  to  be 
friendly,  and  that  presents  would  be  sent.  I  sent 
him  back  to  demand  hostages,  and  the  formal  sub- 

*  In  1891,  the  Jubraj,  then  the  ex-Maharajah,  brought  forward  this  fact 
in  his  appeal  to  the  British  Government,  as  a  reason  for  his  restora- 
tion.— ED. 


154  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUB. 

mission  of  the  village,  as  otherwise  I  would  attack 
them  on  the  morrow  and  spare  no  one.  It  was  not 
a  time  for  soft  speeches,  and  I  heard  rumours  that 
we  were  to  be  opposed  next  day. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  some  Mao  Nagas  brought 
in  seven  ISTepaulee  coolies  who  had  escaped  from 
Kohima  the  previous  day,  and  wandered  through 
the  jungle  expecting  every  moment  to  be  killed.  I 
gave  the  Mao  men  twenty  rupees  as  a  reward.  The 
Nepaulees  said  that  they  had  been  shut  outside  the 
gate  of  the  stockade  by  mistake,  and  had  hidden 
themselves  and  so  got  away.  They  gave  a  deplorable 
account  of  affairs,  and  said  that  there  was  no  food, 
and  that  the  ammunition  was  almost  all  spent,  and 
that  two  ladies  were  in  the  stockade,  Mrs.  Damant 
and  Mrs.  Cawley.  They  stated  that  Mr.  Damant 
was  taken  unawares  and  shot  dead,  and  fifty  men 
killed  on  the  spot,  and  that  thirty  ran  away  and  hid 
in  the  jungles,  some  saving  their  arms,  others  not. 
Each  man  had  fifty  rounds  of  ball  cartridge.  Most 
of  the  rifles  lost  were  breech-loaders.  The  men  told 
me  that  early  that  morning  they  had  seen  smoke 
rising  from  Kohima,  and  thought  it  might  have  been 
burned. 

All  this  made  me  very  anxious,  as  the  men  said 
that  Mr.  Cawley  was  treating  for  a  safe  passage  to 
Samagu citing.  Late  in  the  evening  I  heard  that  a 
building  inside  the  stockade  had  been  burned  by  the 
Nagas,  who  threw  stones  wrapped  in  burning  cloth 
on  to  the  thatched  roofs.  The  Nagas  in  arms  were 
said  to  number  six  thousand,  and  they  had  erected  a 
stockade  opposite  ours  from  which  they  fired.  The 
fugitives  were  in  a  miserable  state  of  semi-starvation, 


UKGENT  MESSAGES.  155 

and  ashy  pale  from  terror,  and  seemed  more  dead 
than  alive  when  they  were  brought  to  me.  We  slept 
on  our  arms  that  night,  at  least  such  as  could  sleep, 
and  rose  at  3  A.M.  in  case  of  an  attack,  that  being  a 
favourite  time  for  the  Nagas  to  make  one. 

When  ready,  I  addressed  my  men,  telling  them  the 
danger  of  the  enterprise,  but  assuring  them  of  its 
success,  and  urging  them,  in  case  of  my  being  killed 
or  wounded,  to  leave  me  and  push  on  to  save  the 
garrison.  I  promised  the  Frontier  Police  that  every 
man  should  be  promoted  if  we  reached  Kohima  safely 
that  night.  This  promise  the  Government  faithfully 
kept. 

At  sunrise  I  received  two  little  slips  of  paper 
brought  by  two  Nepaulese  coolies  who  had  managed 
to  escape,  signed  by  Mr.  Hinde,  Extra  Assistant 
Commissioner,  and  hidden  by  them  in  their  hair. 
On  them  was  written  : — 

Surrounded  by  Nagas,  cut  off  from  water 
Must  be  relieved  at  once.     Send  flying 
column  to  bring  away  garrison  at  once. 
Belief  must  be  immediate  to  be  of  any  use 

H.  M.  Hinde.    A.  P.  A.  Kohima.    25  x.  79. 

and — 

We  are  in  extremity,  come  on  sharp 
Kohima  not  abandoned. 
Kohima  not  abandoned 

H.  M.  Hinde.    A.  P.  A.     26  x.  79. 

After  getting  these,  I  could  not  wait  any  longer, 
and,  as  the  Manipuris  were  not  all  ready,  I  started  off 
at  once  with  fifty  of  them  under  an  old  officer, 
Eerungba  Polla  and  sixty  of  my  escort,  all  that  were 
able  to  make  a  rapid  march,  and  Narain  Singh.  We 
carried  with  us  my  camp  Union  Jack. 


156  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUH. 

I  obtained  hostages  from  Yisvvema  and  placed 
them  under  a  guard  with  orders  to  shoot  them 
instantly,  if  we  were  attacked,  and  on  our  arrival  at 
the  village  we  were  well  received.  At  Rigwema,  as 
we  afterwards  discovered,  a  force  of  Nagas  was 
placed  in  ambush  to  attack  us,  but  the  precautions 
we  took  prevented  their  doing  so,  and  we  passed  on 
unmolested,  and  soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
the  stockade  at  Kohima  still  intact.  A  few  miles 
farther,  and  on  rounding  the  spur  of  a  hill,  the 
stockade  appeared  in  full  view  and  we  sounded  our 
bugles  which  were  quickly  answered  by  a  flourish 
from  Kohima. 

We  marched  on  with  our  standard  flying,  we 
reached  the  valley  below,  we  began  the  ascent  of  the 
last  slope,  and  forming  into  as  good  order  as  the 
ground  would  allow,  we  at  last  gained  the  summit 
and  saw  the  stockade,  to  save  which,  we  had  marched 
so  far  and  so  well,  before  us  at  a  distance  of  one 
hundred  yards. 

The  garrison  gave  a  loud  cheer,  which  we 
answered,  and  numbers  of  them  poured  out.  Messrs. 
Cawley  and  Hinde  grasped  my  hand,  and  others  of 
the  garrison  formed  a  line  on  either  side  of  the  gate- 
way, and  we  marched  in  between  them.  I  recog- 
nised many  old  faces  not  seen  since  I  had  left  the 
Xaga  Hills  in  1874,  and  warmly  greeted  them ; 
especially  Mema  Ram,  a  Subadar  in  the  Frontier 
Police ;  Kurum  Singh,  and  others.  I  was  told  after- 
wards that  when  Mema  Ram  first  heard  that  I  was 
marching  to  their  relief,  he  said,  "  Oh,  if  Johnstone 
Sahib  is  coming  we  are  all  right." 

I  at  once  told  the  officers  of  the  garrison    that 


"*  tt 

s  § 

O    h 

X        &H 

5  O 
AH    ^ 

gs 

^    § 


BELIEF  OF   KOHIMA.  157 

there  could  be  no  divided  authority,  and  that  they 
must  consider  themselves  subject  to  my  orders,  to 
which  they  agreed.  I  then  saw  the  poor  widowed 
Mrs.  Damant,  and  Mrs.  Cawley  who  had  behaved 
nobly  during  the  siege.  While  talking  to  the  last, 
one  of  her  two  children  asked  for  some  water.  Her 
mother  said  in  a  feeling  tone,  "  Yes,  my  dear,  you 
can  have  some  now."  Seldom  have  I  heard  words 
that  sounded  more  eloquent. 

The  Manipuris  now  began  to  pour  in,  in  one  long 
stream,  and  were  greeted  by  the  garrison  with 
effusion,  and  I  gave  them  the  site  of  a  stockade  that 
had  been  destroyed  by  Mr.  Cawley,  in  order  to 
reduce  the  space  to  be  defended  as  much  as  possible, 
arid  told  them  to  stockade  themselves,  which  they 
did  at  once.  After  arranging  for  the  defence  of  our 
position,  I  sent  off  a  letter  to  my  wife  to  say  that  I 
was  safe,  and  that  Kohima  had  been  relieved,  and 
telegrams  to  the  Chief  Commissioner,  and  Govern- 
ment of  India,  to  be  sent  on  at  once  to  Cachar,  the 
nearest  telegraph  office,  informing  them  of  the  good 
news. 

It  appeared  from  what  Mr.  Cawley  told  me,  that 
on  the  14th  of  October,  Mr.  Damant  had  gone  to 
Konoma  from  Jotsoma,  to  try  and  enforce  some 
demands  he  had  made.  He  had  been  warned  several 
times  that  the  Merema  Clan  of  Konoma  meant 
mischief,  and  several  Nagas  had  implored  him  not  to 
go,  and  finding  him  deaf  to  their  entreaties,  begged 
him  to  go  through  the  friendly  Semema  Clan's 
quarter  of  the  village.  However,  he  insisted  on 
having  his  own  way,  and  went  to  the  gate  of  the 
Merema  Clan  at  the  top  of  a  steep,  narrow  path.  The 


158  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

gate  was  closed,  and  while  demanding  an  entrance, 
lie  was  shot  dead.  His  men  were  massed  in  rear  of 
him,  and  a  large  number  were  at  once  shot  down, 
while  the  others  took  to  flight.  Some  of  the 
fugitives  reached  Kohima  that  night,  and  Mr. 
Cawley  at  once,  grasping  the  gravity  of  the  situa- 
tion, pulled  down  one  stockade,  and  dismantled  the 
buildings  as  already  related,  concentrating  all  his 
men  in  the  other,  and  making  it  as  strong  as  possible. 
The  neighbouring  villages  had  already  risen,  and 
were  sending  contingents  to  attack  Kohima. 

Mr.  Cawley  had  just  time  to  send  a  messenger  to 
Mr.  Hinde,  the  extra-Assistant  Commissioner  at 
Woka,  a  distance  of  sixty-three  miles,  ordering  him 
to  come  in  with  the  detachment  of  fifty  police  under 
him.  These  orders  Mr.  Hinde  most  skilfully  carried 
out,  by  marching  only  at  night,  and  on  the  19th  he 
reached  Kohima,  thus  strengthening  the  garrison 
and  making  it  more  able  to  hold  its  own,  for  the 
number  of  the  attacking  party  now  greatly  in- 
creased. 

Most  fortunately,  owing  to  the  zealous  care  of 
Major  T.  N.  Walker,  44th  E.  L.  Infantry,  there 
were  some  rations  in  reserve  for  the  troops,  which 
were  shared  with  the  non-combatants  and  police. 
These  he  had  insisted  on  being  collected  and  stored 
up,  when  he  paid  a  visit  of  inspection  to  Kohima 
some  months  before.  But  for  this  small  stock  the 
place  could  not  have  held  out  for  two  days,  but  must 
inevitably  have  fallen,  as  all  supplies  were  cut  off 
during  the  progress  of  the  siege.  The  water  was 
poisoned  by  having  a  human  head  thrown  into  it. 
The  Nagas  fired  at  the  stockade  continually,  but 


RESULT  OP  A  SURRENDER.  159 

made  no  regular  assault.  They  seemed  to  have  tried 
picking  off  every  man  who  showed  himself,  and 
starving  out  the  garrison.  The  quantity  of  jungle 
that  had  been  allowed  to  remain  standing  all  round 
afforded  them  admirable  cover,  and,  as  before 
stated,  they  erected  another  small  stockade  from 
which  to  fire.  This  they  constantly  brought  nearer 
and  nearer  by  moving  the  timbers. 

At  length,  the  garrison  wearied  out,  entered  into 
negotiations,  and  agreed  to  surrender  the  stockade, 
if  allowed  a  free  passage  to  Samagudting.  This 
fatal  arrangement  would  have  been  carried  into  effect 
within  an  hour  or  two,  had  not  my  letter  arrived 
assuring  them  of  help.  What  the  result  would 
have  been  no  one  who  knows  the  Nagas  can  doubt ; 
545  headless  and  naked  bodies  would  have  been  lying 
outside  the  blockade.  Five  hundred  stands  of  arms, 
and  250,000  rounds  of  ammunition  would  have  been 
in  possession  of  the  enemy,  enough  to  keep  the  hills 
in  a  blaze  for  three  years,  and  to  give  employment 
to  half-a-dozen  regiments  during  all  that  time,  and 
to  oblige  an  expenditure  of  a  million  sterling,  to  say 
nothing  of  valuable  lives.* 

Throughout  the  siege,  Mrs.  Daman t,  and  Mrs. 
Cawley  had  displayed  much  heroism.  The  first 
undertook  to  look  after  the  wounded,  and  went  to 
visit  them  daily,  exposed  to  the  enemy's  fire.  Mrs. 
Cawley  took  charge  of  the  women  and  children  of 

*  The  savage  mode  in  which  the  Nagas  conduct  their  warfare  is  vividly 
described  by  a  correspondent  of  the  Englishman  writing  from  Cachar, 
January  28, 1880,  after  a  raid  on  the  Baladhun  Tea  Gardens  by  a  band 
of  the  same  tribe  as  those  of  Konoma.  He  ends  with  "  The  whole  was  a 
horribly  sickening  scene,  and  a  complete  wreck ;  and  such  surely  as  none 
but  the  veriest  of  devils  in  human  form  could  have  perpetrated." — ED. 


160  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

the  sepoys,  and  looked  after  them,  keeping  them 
in  a  sheltered  spot.  The  poor  little  children  could 
not  understand  the  situation  at  all,  or  why  it  was 
that  the  Nagas  were  firing. 

The  casualties  would  have  been  more  numerous 
than  they  were,  but  that  the  Nagas  were  careful  of  the 
cherished  ammunition,  and  seldom  fired,  unless  pretty 
sure  of  hitting.  All  the  same,  the  situation  was  a 
very  critical  one,  and  not  to  be  judged  by  people 
sitting  quietly  at  home  by  their  firesides.  It  is 
certainly  a  very  awful  thing,  after  a  great  disaster 
and  massacre,  to  be  shut  up  in  a  weak  stockade  built 
of  highly  inflammable  material,  and  surrounded  by 
6000  howling  savages  who  spare  no  one.  In  ad- 
dition to  that  too,  to  have  the  water  supply  cut  off, 
and  at  most  ten  days'  full  provision ;  for  this  was 
what  it  amounted  to.  It  must  be  also  remembered 
that  the  non-combatants  far  out-numbered  the  com- 
batants, and  that  the  two  officers  who  undertook  the 
defence  were  both  civilians.  Anyhow,  the  view 
taken  of  it  by  the  defenders  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
they  were  willing  to  surrender  to  the  enemy,  rather 
than  face  the  situation  and  its  terrible  uncertainty 
any  longer,  as  they  were  quite  in  doubt  as  to 
whether  relief  was  coming  or  whether  their  letters 
having  miscarried  they  would  be  left  to  perish. 

Looking  back,  after  a  lapse  of  fifteen  years,  and 
calmly  reviewing  the  events  connected  with  the 
siege  of  Kohima,  I  think  I  was  right  at  the  time  in 
describing  the  defence  as  a  "  noble  one." 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Returning  order  and  confidence — Arrival  of  Major  Evans — Arrival  of 
Major  Williamson — Keeping  open  communication — Attack  on  Phe- 
sama — Visit  to  Manipur — General  Nation  arrives — Join  him  at 
Suchema — Prepare  to  attack  Konoma — Assault  of  Konoma. 

EARLY  on  the  morning  of  the  28th,  I  took  out  all  the 
men  I  could  collect  and  set  to  work  to  clear  away  the 
jungle  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  stockade  so  as  to 
give  no  covert  to  enemies.  I  also  did  my  utmost  to 
collect  supplies.  Kohima,  with  its  twelve  hundred 
houses,  was  able  to  give  a  little,  and  I  sent  to  distant 
villages.  I  also  sent  to  the  head-man  of  Konoma  to 
ask  for  Mr.  Damant's  body.  The  man  at  once  sent 
in  the  head,  but  said  that  the  body  had  been  de- 
stroyed. A  true  statement,  I  have  no  doubt,  as  the 
head  is  all  the  Nagas  value,  and  the  body  would  have 
been  given  up  instantly  had  it  existed.  His  signet 
ring,  and  several  other  little  articles  were  also  sent. 
The  head  was  buried  with  due  honours,  the  Manipuri 
chiefs  drawing  up  their  men  and  saluting  as  the 
funeral  procession  passed.  The  Jubraj,  Soor  Chandra 
Singh,  spoke  very  feelingly  on  the  subject. 

The  watercourse,  which  formerly  supplied  the  gar- 
rison, had  been  diverted,  and  the  only  other  supply 
had  been,  as  already  stated,  poisoned  by  a  head  being 
thrown  into  it.  My  first  business  was  to  see  that  the 


162  HT    EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

water  communication  was  restored,  to  every  one's 
comfort.  Some  of  my  old  acquaintances  among  the 
Nagas  began  to  come  in,  and  there  was  a  great 
disposition  to  be  friendly. 

The  next  day  a  sepoy  of  the  43rd,  who  had  escaped 
the  massacre  arid  lived  in  the  jungle,  was  brought  in 
by  some  friendly  Nagas.  He  was  almost  out  of  his 
mind,  and  nearly  speechless  from  terror,  and  could 
not  walk,  so  was  carried  on  the  man's  back. 

T  made  up  my  mind  to  attack  Konoma  as  soon  as 
I  could,  and  the  people  knowing  this,  tried  negotia- 
tions with  my  Manipuri  allies.  So  great  was  the 
fear  we  inspired  that  at  first  I  believe  I  could  without 
difficulty  have  imposed  more  severe  terms  than  were 
obtained  later  on  after  four  months'  fighting.  With 
Asiatics  especially,  everything  depends  on  the 
vigour  with  which  an  enterprise  is  pushed  for- 
ward. The  Nagas  never  expecting  an  attack  from 
the  side  of  Manipur,  were  at  first  paralysed.  All 
the  villages  were  without  any  but  the  most  rudi- 
mentary defences,  in  addition  to  those  which  nature 
had  given  them  from  their  position  ;  not  one  of  them 
could  have  stood  against  a  well-directed  attack. 

I  was  in  the  midst  of  my  preparations  when,  on 
the  30th  October,  Major  (now  Major-General)  Evans, 
of  the  43rd  Assam  Light  Infantry,  arrived  with  two 
hundred  men,  who  had  come  with  him  from  Dibroo- 
gurh.  I  also  received  a  telegram  saying  that  General 
Nation  was  coming  up  with  one  thousand  men  and 
two  mountain-guns,  and  might  be  expected  on  the 
9th  November.  I  was  also  given  strict  orders  to 
engage  in  no  active  operations  till  his  arrival.  These 
orders  I  at  first  disregarded,  feeling  the  urgent 


UNFORTUNATE  INTERFERENCE.        163 

necessity  of  instant  action  before  the  Nagas  had  time 
to  recover  from  their  surprise.  However,  next  day 
the  order  was  reiterated  so  strongly,  and  in  the 
Chief  Commissioner's  name,  that,  believing  that  the 
Grovernment  had  some  special  reason  for  the  order, 
I  accepted  it,  much  to  my  disappointment,  as  I  felt 
the  urgent  necessity  of  an  immediate  advance. 
Konoma  was  still  unfortified,  and  a  few  days  would 
have  sufficed  to  capture  it,  and  place  the  Naga  Hills 
at  our  feet.  As  it  was,  the  delay,  not  till  Novem- 
ber 9th,  but  November  22nd,  owing  to  defective  trans- 
port arrangements,  gave  the  enemy  time  to  recover, 
and  when  we  tardily  appeared  before  Konoma,  we 
found  a  scientifically  defended  fortress,  whose  capture 
cost  us  many  valuable  lives.  The  order,  it  subse- 
quently appeared,  was  not  issued  by  Sir  Steuart 
Bayley,*  and  was  altogether  due  to  a  misappre- 
hension. 

*  The  order  came  in  a  telegram  purporting  to  be  from  the  Chief 
Commissioner,  and  by  whom  really  transmitted  is  a  mystery.  The 
Deputy-Assistant  Quartermaster  General's  Report  of  this  Naga  Hill 
Expedition  states,  that  after  Lieutenant-Colonel  Johnstone's  Kuki  levies 
had  attacked  Phesama,  and  killed  about  two  hundred  of  the  enemy  in 
consequence  of  the  loss  of  some  of  their  own  men  from  an  assault  from 
this  village,  the  Manipuri  army  performed  no  other  operation  in  this 
war  (except  as  coolies  and  bringing  in  supplies,  and  in  this  respect  they 
were  invaluable).  But  he  adds,  "Colonel  Jolmstone,  it  is  understood, 
was  anxious  to  attack  Konoma  on  his  own  account  without  waiting  for 
General  Nation  and  the  troops."  Colonel  Johnstone  explained  in  a 
memorandum  that  no  arrangements  had  been  made  by  the  military 
authorities  for  the  carriage  of  the  guns,  and  that  up  to  the  evening  before 
the  attack  on  Konoma  he  had  received  no  request  for  coolies,  but  fore- 
seeing some  neglect  of  this  kind  he  had  kept  over  one  hundred  reliable 
Manipuris  for  the  work,  and  without  them  the  guns  could  not  have  gone 
into  action.  As  to  the  rest  of  his  levy,  they  had  lost  three  hundred  men 
by  sickness,  and  like  all  irregulars,  had  been  injured  by  the  long  delay 
and  enforced  idleness.  They  had  also  been  already  fired  upon  by  our 
troops  in  mistake  for  Nagas,  and  he  feared  some  unfortunate  complication 

M   2 


164  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

As  there  was  to  be  no  immediate  work,  I  urged 
Major  Evans  to  take  up  his  post  at  Samagudting, 
where  a  magazine  containing  200,000  rounds  of  am- 
munition was  very  inefficiently  guarded;  he,  however, 
left  a  subaltern,  Lieut,  (now  Captain)  Barrett  with 
me,  as  I  wanted  another  officer.  On  their  way,  some 
men  of  the  43rd  had  shot  two  Nagas,  one  a  relation 
of  the  chief  of  the  Hepromah  clan  of  Kohima,  a  most 
unfortunate  proceeding,  and  quite  uncalled  for,  as 
the  men  were  quietly  working  in  their  fields.  I  was 
already  sufficiently  embarrassed  by  the  promises 
made  by  the  garrison  to  the  so-called  friendly  clans 
of  Kohima,  to  induce  them  to  be  neutral  during  the 
siege,  and  which  I  felt  bound  to  keep,  and  this 
additional  complication  added  to  my  troubles.  People 
situated  as  the  garrison  were  should  make  no  promises 
except  in  return  for  real  help. 

All  this  time  troops  and  supplies  came  pouring  in 
from  Manipur  in  one  long  thin  stream,  and  the 
greatest  efforts  were  made  to  collect  supplies  on  the 
spot.  I  also  forced  the  unfriendly  Chitonoma  clan 
of  Kohima  to  surrender  six  rifles  they  had  captured, 
and  to  pay  a  fine  of  200  maunds  of  rice.  We  had 
been  expecting  a  force  of  Kuki  irregulars  from 
Manipur ;  these  now  arrived,  and  I  had  a  talk  with 
the  chief,  who  said :  "  Our  great  desire  is  to  attack 

if  he  brought  them  again  to  the  front.  But  one  hundred  and  fifty  at  the 
request  of  General  Nation  were  posted  in  the  valley  to  intercept  fugitives, 
and  they  did  what  they  were  told.  Another  force  was  also  left  to  help 
to  protect  the  camp  at  Suchema.  Colonel  Johnstone  therein  states  that 
he  felt  confident  he  could  have  captured  Konoma  with  his  Manipuris 
alone,  directly  after  the  relief  of  Kohima.  The  Konoma  men,  in  fact, 
offered  to  submit  on  harsher  terms  to  themselves  to  Colonel  Johnstone 
than  were  afterwards  wrested  from  them  by  General  Nation  with  the  loss 
of  valuable  lives,  and  at  a  heavy  pecuniary  cost. — ED. 


SORROWFUL   NEWS.  165 

that  village/'  pointing  to  Kohima,  "  and  to  kill  every 
man,  woman,  and  child  in  it !  "  He  looked  as  if  he 
meant  it. 

One  day  a  cat  was  caught  that  had  given  great 
trouble  stealing  provisions,  etc.,  we  all  wanted  to 
get  rid  of  it,  but  Hindoos  do  not  like  having  cats 
killed,  and  I  respected  their  prejudices  when  possible, 
and  there  were  many  Hindoos  about  us,  so  I  said,  "  I 
won't  have  it  killed,  unless  some  one  wants  to  eat  it." 
A  Kuki  soon  came  and  asked  to  be  allowed  to  make 
a  dinner  of  it,  and  then  I  gave  my  consent,  and  our 
scourge  was  removed.  I  once  asked  a  sepoy  of  my 
old  regiment  why  they  objected  to  killing  cats.  He 
said,  "  People  do  say  that  if  you  kill  a  cat  now  you 
will  have  to  give  a  golden  cat  in  exchange  in  the 
next  world  as  a  punishment,  and  where  are  we  to 
get  one  ?  " 

To  keep  open  communications,  I  established  Mani- 
puri  posts  in  strong  stockades  at  all  the  principal 
villages  on  the  road  to  the  frontier,  and  had  daily 
posts  from  Manipur.  To  my  great  distress,  I  heard 
that  my  youngest  boy,  Arthur,  was  ill,  and  my  wife 
in  much  anxiety  about  him ;  but  I  could  not  leave 
to  help  her. 

Our  forced  inaction  had,  as  I  anticipated,  been 
misinterpreted  by  the  Nagas.  Some  decisive  action 
was  much  needed,  and  I  attacked  the  hostile  Chito- 
noma  clan  of  Kohima,  and  destroyed  part  of  their 
village.  On  the  10th,  as  a  party  of  men  were 
bringing  in  provisions  from  Manipur,  they  had  been 
attacked  by  some  of  the  Chitonoma  clan  in  the  valley 
below  our  position.  I  heard  the  firing,  and  ran  out 
of  the  stockade  with  a  party  to  drive  off  the  enemy. 


166  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

At  the  gate,  a  man  who  had  just  arrived,  put  a 
letter  in  my  hand.  I  read  it  anxiously,  it  told  me 
that  my  child  was  dead.  My  wife  and  I  had  chosen 
a  spot,  at  Kang-joop-kool  where  we  wished  to  be 
buried  in  case  either  of  us  died,  and  there  she  buried 
him. 

We  soon  cleared  out  the  Chitonoma  men,  and 
I  found  that  with  the  troops  escorting  the  provisions 
was  Dr.  Campbell  from  Cachar,  whose  arrival  was 
very  welcome.  I  remember  in  connection  with  him 
a  striking  incident  showing  the  courage  of  Manipuris 
in  suffering.  A  man  who  had  been  wounded  in  an 
encounter  had  to  have  an  operation  performed  on  his 
arm.  Dr.  Campbell  wanted  to  give  him  chloroform 
as  it  would  be  very  painful.  But  the  man  refused, 
saying,  "  I  will  not  take  anything  that  intoxicates," 
and  at  once  held  out  his  arm  and  submitted  to  the 
knife  without  flinching ! 

Every  day  the  delay  in  the  commencement  of 
active  operations  made  the  Nagas  more  and  more 
confident,  and  some  vigorous  action  on  our  part  was 
absolutely  necessary.  I  heard  from  spies  that  our 
Manipuri  post  at  Phesama  was  about  to  be  attacked 
by  the  people  of  the  village,  who  held  nightly 
converse  with  emissaries  from  Konoma.  I  therefore 
determined  to  punish  Phesama,  which  was  not  far 
from  Kohima,  and  on  November  llth,  I  sent  a  party 
of  Manipuris  and  Kukis  who  destroyed  the  village  in 
a  night  attack,  and  killed  a  large  number  of  people. 
They  brought  in  twenty-one  women  and  children  as 
prisoners  whom  the  Manipuris  had  saved  from  the 
Kukis,  who  would  have  spared  neither  age  nor  sex 
had  they  gone  alone. 


ARTILLERY   ELEPHANTS.  167 

The  next  day  my  old  friend  Captain  Williamson 
arrived  to  act  as  my  assistant,  I  having  been  ap- 
pointed Chief  Political  Officer  with  the  Field  Force 
that  was  being  formed.  Having  now  a  competent 
man  to  leave  in  charge,  I  determined  to  go  to  Mani- 
pur  for  a  few  days,  and  marched  to  Mythephum  on 
the  13th,  and  rode  thence  on  the  14th  to  Mariipur, 
accomplishing  the  whole  distance  of  over  100  miles 
in  thirty-one  and  a  half  hours.  I  stayed  one  day  in 
Manipur  and  then  returned,  reaching  Kohima  on 
the  17th. 

On  November  20th,  General  Nation  having  arrived 
at  Suchema,  ten  miles  from  Kohima,  Williamson  and 
I  left  to  join  him.  We  were  fired  at  on  the  road, 
but  got  in  safely  and  found  all  well  and  in  good 
spirits.  The  troops  consisted  of  43rd  and  44th 
Assam  Light  Infantry  and  two  seven-pound  moun- 
tain-guns under  Lieut.  Mansel,  E.A.  Lieut,  (now 
Major)  Raban,  R.E.,  was  engineer-officer  and  Deputy 
Surgeon-General  (now  Surgeon-General,  C.B.)  De 
Renzy  was  in  charge  of  the  Medical  Department. 
Major  Cock,  a  well-known  soldier  and  sportsman, 
was  Brigade  Major. 

On  the  21st,  the  guns  arrived  on  elephants,  and 
feeling  sure  that  no  proper  carriage  could  have  been 
provided  for  their  transport,  I  had  taken  the  pre- 
caution to  bring  one  hundred  Kuki  coolies  to  carry 
them.  The  assault  was  to  be  next  day.  Mozuma 
remained  neutral,  and  even  gave  us  a  few  coolies 
and  guides.* 

*  I  also  heard  from  an  old  Mozuma  friend,  Lotoje",  that  the  enmiy  in- 
tended to  concentrate  all  his  fire  on  the  officers,  so  as  to  render  the  men 
helpless.  I  told  this  to  the  General  and  Major  Cock,  and  strongly  advised 
them  to  do  as  I  did,  and  cover  their  white  helmets  with  blue  turbans  to 


168  MY  EXPEKIENCES  IN   MANIPUE. 

How  well  I  remember  the  night  of  the  21st. 
Williamson  and  I  dined  with  the  General  and  all  the 
staff,  and  poor  Cock,  great  on  all  sporting  subjects, 
told  us  in  the  most  animated  way,  stories  of  whaling 
adventures  when  he  was  on  leave  at  the  Cape.  He 
warmed  to  his  subject  and  greatly  interested  us  ;  he 
was  a  fine  gaunt  man  of  over  six  feet  in  height,  and 
great  strength  and  ready  for  any  enterprise ;  some  of 
the  Mozuma  Nagas  knew  him  and  liked  him  as  they 
had,  years  before,  been  on  shooting  expeditions  with 
him  in  the  Nowgong  jungles.  Besides  this  we  had 
a  surgical  address  from  Dr.  De  Renzy,  who  told  us 
what  to  do  if  any  of  us  were  wounded.  How  we  all 
laughed  over  it,  he  joining  us.  I  knew  we  should 
have  some  hard  fighting,  but  we  all  counted  on 
carrying  everything  before  us  with  a  rush,  and  who 
is  there  who  expects  to  be  wounded  ?  We  are  ready 
for  it  if  it  comes,  but  we  all  think  that  we  are  to  be 
the  exception.  It  is  as  well  that  it  is  so. 

We  were  under  arms  at  430  A.M.  on  the  22nd. 
The  first  party  consisting  of  two  companies  of  the 
43rd  Assam  Light  Infantry  and  twenty-eight  Naga 
Hills  Police,  under  Major  Evans  and  Lieut.  Barrett, 
conducted  by  Captain  Williamson,  who  knew  the 
country,  were  directed  to  proceed  to  the  rear  of 
Konoma  and  occupy  the  saddle  connecting  the  spur 
on  which  it  is  built  with  the  main  road,  so  as  to 
cut  off  the  line  of  retreat. 

At  7.30  A.M.,  the  remaining  portion  of  the  force 


render  themselves  less  conspicuous,  urging  the  inadvisability  of  needlessly 
rendering  themselves  marks  for  the  enemy's  fire.  The  General  refused, 
and  Cock  said  he  should  do  as  the  General  did,  so  I  said  no  more ;  ad- 
miring their  dogged  courage,  but  wishing  that  they  would  take  advice. 


ATTACK   ON   KONOMA.  169 

marched  off.  We  all  went  together  to  the  Mozuma 
Hill,  where  Lieut.  Raban,  R.E.,  was  detached  with 
part  of  a  rocket  battery,  to  take  up  a  position  on  the 
hillside  and  open  fire  on  Konoma,  simultaneously 
with  the  guns.  A  small  force  was  left  in  Suchema, 
to  which,  on  my  own  responsibility,  I  added  one 
hundred  and  ten  Kuki  irregulars,  as  I  thought  it 
dangerously  small  for  a  place  containing  all  our 
stores  and  reserve  ammunition.  At  the  General's 
request,  I  had  posted  a  force  of  two  hundred  men 
in  a  valley  to  intercept  fugitives,  and  cut  them  off 
from  Jotsuma. 

After  leaving  Lieut.  Raban,  we  crossed  the  valley 
dividing  Mozuma  and  Konoma,  and  when  half-way 
between  the  hills,  Lieut.  Ridgeway  (now  Colonel 
Ridgeway,  Y.C.)  was  sent  with  a  company  of  the 
44th  to  skirmish  up  to  the  Konoma  hill.  The  main 
body  with  the  guns  then  gradually  ascended  to  the 
Government  Road.  Just  before  reaching  it,  we  found 
a  headless  Aryan  corpse  in  a  stream,  it  was  probably 
that  of  a  sepoy  of  the  43rd,  who  formed  part  of  Mr. 
Damant's  ill-fated  expedition. 

After  going  for  a  short  distance  along  the  road,  we 
found  a  place  up  which  the  guns  could  go,  and  a  party 
of  fifty  men  under  Lieut.  Henderson,  44th  Assam 
Light  Infantry,  was  sent  ahead  to  skirmish  up  the  hill- 
side, the  guns  carried  by  my  coolies  following  with 
the  General  and  his  Staff,  including  myself.  As  we 
ascended  the  hill,  Colonel  Nuttall,  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  44th,  exclusive  of  the  gun  escort,  pro- 
ceeded along  the  road,  crossing  the  small  valley  that 
divides  the  Konoma  hill  from  the  ridore  of  the 


.-v 


Basoma  hill  which  we  were  ascending,  a  few  hundred 


170  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

yards  from  where  it  joins  the  main  valley,  and 
halted  at  the  foot.  After  incredible  labour,  we 
succeeded  in  getting  the  guns  into  position  at  about 
1200  yards  distance  from  the  highest  point  of 
Konoma,  and  at  once  opened  fire,  while  Lieut.  Eaban 
did  the  ksame  with  his  rockets  which,  however,  for 
the  most  part  fell  short  over  the  heads  of  Lieut. 
Ridgeway's  party,  though  once  two  struck  the 
village.  On  being  signalled,  Lieut.  Eaban  withdrew 
his  rockets  and  joined  us.  Meanwhile,  the  guns  had 
made  little  impression  on  the  people,  and  none  on  the 
stone  forts  of  Konoma,  but  the  44th  were  advancing 
gallantly  to  the  attack  up  the  steep  ascent  to  the 
village,  a  brisk  fire  being  kept  up  on  both  sides. 

At  about  2.30,  the  position  of  the  guns  was 
changed,  and  they  were  advanced  to  within  eight 
hundred  yards  of  the  works,  here  one  of  my  gun 
coolies  was  wounded  by  a  shot  from  the  village. 
The  change  of  position  had  little  effect,  and  Lieu- 
tenant Henderson's  party  which  had  skirmished 
along  the  hillside,  effectually  prevented  the  enemy 
from  evacuating  his  strong  position. 

At  this  time  we  saw  a  body  of  men  on  the  ridge 
above  Konoma,  and  a  gun  and  rocket  fire  was 
opened  on  them,  but  speedily  stopped  as  the  regi- 
mental call  of  the  43rd  sounding  in  the  distance, 
followed  by  a  close  observation  with  our  glasses,  led 
us  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  the  party  with 
Captain  Williamson  and  not  the  enemy  who  occu- 
pied the  point  at  which  we  had  directed  our  fire. 
Subsequently  it  was  discovered  that  the  stockade 
there  had  been  captured  and  occupied  by  the  party 
of  the  43rd.  After  firing  a  few  shots  from  our  new 


HARD  FIGHTING.  171 

position,  and  imagining  that  the  force  under  Colonel 
Nuttall  was  in  full  possession  of  the  hill  we  unlim- 
bered,  and,  crossing  the  small  valley  before  men- 
tioned, we  followed  Mr.  Damant's  path  up  the  hill, 
entering  the  village  by  the  gate  where  he  met  his 
death.  As  we  neared  the  place  where  we  had  last 
seen  Colonel  Nuttall's  party,  ominous  sights  met  our 
eyes,  dead  bodies  here  and  there  and  men  badly 
wounded,  while  sepoys  left  in  charge  of  the  latter 
told  us  that  the  Nagas  were  still  holding  out  in  the 
upper  forts.  After  advancing  a  few  paces  further 
we  had  to  pick  our  way  over  ground  studded  with 
pangees,*  and  covered  with  thorns  and  bamboo  and 
cane  entanglements,  exposed  to  the  fire  of  the 
enemy,  and  passing  the  bodies  of  several  Nagas  we 
ascended  a  kind  of  staircase,  and  after  again  passing 
under  the  Naga  fire  climbed  up  a  perpenpicular 
stone  wall  and  found  ourselves  in  a  small  tower, 
which,  with  the  adjoining  work,  was  held  by  a  small 
party  of  the  44th.  I  asked  Colonel  Nuttall  where 
all  his  men  were,  and  he  pointed  to  the  handful 
around  him  and  said,  "  These  are  all."  The  situa- 
tion was  indeed  a  desperate  one,  and  I  felt  that 
without  some  immediate  action  our  power  in  the 
Naga  Hills  for  the  moment  trembled  in  the  balance. 
The  needed  action  was  taken  as  the  guns  had  now 
arrived  under  a  heavy  fire,  and  they  opened  on  the 
upper  forts  at  a  distance  of  eighty  to  one  hundred 
yards,  Lieutenant  Mansel  and  his  three  European 
bombardiers  pointing  them,  fully  exposed  to  the  fire 
of  the  enemy.  I  strongly  urged  on  the  General  the 
necessity  of  making  an  attempt  to  dislodge  him 

*  Sharp  stakes  of  bamboo  hardened  in  the  fire. 


172  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

before  nightfall,  and  he  was  about  to  lead  out  a 
party  to  the  attack  when  it  was  deemed  more  pru- 
dent to  try  the  guns  from  another  point  first. 
After  a  series  of  rounds  with  such  heavy  charges 
that  the  guns  were  upset  at  every  shot,  the  order 
for  the  assault  was  given,  and  we  all  rushed  out  in 
two  parties,  led  by  nine  officers,  viz.,  General  Nation, 
Colonel  Nuttall,  Major  Cock,  Major  Walker,  Lieu- 
tenant Ridge wav,  Lieutenant  Raban,  Lieutenant 

»/   * 

Boileau,  Lieutenant  Forbes,  and  myself,  with  all  the 
men  we  could  collect.  The  party  I  was  with,  which 
included  the  general,  Colonel  Nuttall,  and  Major 
Cock,  attempted  to  scale  the  front  face  of  the  fort,  the 
other  the  left,  i.e.,  on  our  right.  The  right  column 
of  attack  led  by  Ridgeway  and  Forbes  advanced 
splendidly ;  I  seem  to  hear  to  this  day  Ridgeway's 
shout  of  "  Chulleao,"  i.e.,  "  Come  along,"  to  his  men 
as  he  dashed  to  the  front,  and  I  saw  him  mounting 
the  parapet. 

The  Nagas  met  us  with  a  heavy  fire  and  showers 
of  spears  and  stones.  One  of  the  spears  struck 
Forbes,  and  Ridgeway  was  badly  wounded  in  the 
left  shoulder  by  a  shot  fired  at  ten  paces,  and  Nir 
Beer  Sai,  a  gallant  subadar,  shot  dead.  My  faithful 
orderly,  Narain  Singh,  was  also  killed.  Unfor- 
tunately we  had  no  force  to  support  the  assaulting 
parties  and  the  men  began  to  retire.  While  this 
was  doing  on  the  right,  our  column,  the  left,  was 
scaling  an  almost  perpendicular  wall  in  front  but 
unsuccessfully,  as  those  of  us  not  killed  were  pushed 
back  by  showers  of  falling  stones  and  earth,  and 
as  we  alighted  at  a  lower  level  the  remnants  of  the 
right  column  who  were  retiring  met  us.  I  tried  to 


HEAVY  LOSS.  173 

rally  them,  but  I  was  a  stranger  to  them  and  it  was 
no  use.  Lieutenant  Raban  was  equally  unsuccess- 
ful, the  men  had  acted  gallantly,  but  our  party  was 
too  small,  and  as  I  had  before  predicted  the  fire  was 
concentrated  on  the  European  officers.  Major  Cock 
walked  back  leisurely  to  get  under  cover,  and  just 
before  he  reached  it  turned  round  to  take  a  parting 
shot.  I  saw  him  thus  far,  and  immediately  after 
heard  that  he  had  been  shot.  Seeing  that  our  only 
chance  of  safety  lay  in  a  retreat,  I  shouted  to  Mansel 
to  open  an  artillery  fire  over  our  heads  which  he 
did,  this  saved  us.  In  another  minute,  the  general, 
Colonel  Nuttall,  myself  and  five  sepoys  were  the 
only  men  left.  I  suggested  to  the  former  that  we 
had  better  go  too  and  retire,  which  we  did  over  the 
embers  of  a  burning  house. 

As  I  retired  with  the  General  we  found  Major 
Cock  mortally  wounded,  laid  under  cover  in  a 
sheltered  spot ;  a  little  farther  on  under  a  heavy  fire 
we  met  Lieutenant  Boileau  bringing  out  a  stretcher 
for  him.  As  Cock  was  being  carried  in,  a  bearer 
was  shot  dead,  and  Dr.  Campbell  took  his  place  and 
brought  him  into  hospital. 

It  was  a  strange  situation,  as  in  our  retreat  we 
were  alternately  exposed  to  a  fire,  and  quite  shel- 
tered. Luckily  the  place  selected  for  a  hospital  was 
safe,  and  there  a  sad  sight  met  my  eyes.  In  the 
short  period  that  elapsed  between  the  commence- 
ment of  the  assault  and  my  return,  the  hospital  had 
been  filled.  Young  Forbes  was  on  his  back,  pale 
as  a  sheet,  but  cheerful.  Ridge  way  flushed  with 
the  glow  of  battle  on  him.  "  Certamis  gaudia,"  I 
said,  "  I  hope  you  are  not  much  hurt."  "  Only  my 


174  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUK. 

shoulder  smashed,"  he  said.  Colonel  Nuttall  was 
slightly  wounded,  making  four  out  of  nine  Europeans. 
Besides  these  were  men  of  the  44th  of  all  ranks, 
some  almost  insensible,  others  in  great  pain,  some 
composed,  others  despondent.  Outside  lay  a  heap  of 
dead.  Twenty-five  per  cent,  of  the  native  ranks  had 
fallen,  killed  or  wounded.  Some  of  my  gun  coolies 
were  among  the  latter,  besides  one  or  two  killed. 

I  remember  a  wounded  Kuki  who  was  supporting 
himself  by  leaning  against  a  great  vat  of  Naga  beer 
prepared  to  refresh  the  defenders  of  the  fortress,  arid 
by  him  lay  a  dead  Naga.  The  Kuki  had  a  dao 
(sword)  in  his  hand,  and  every  now  and  then  he 
fortified  himself  with  a  deep  draught  of  the  grateful 
fluid,  and  thus  strengthened  made  a  savage  cut  at 
the  body  of  his  foe. 

We  had  captured  all  but  the  highest  forts,  and  a 
renewed  attack  with  our  small  numbers  was  out  of 
the  question,  as  night  was  closing  in,  and  we  were 
very  anxious  as  to  the  safety  of  our  detached  parties 
under  Evans,  Macgregor,  and  Henderson.* 

It  was  determined  to  remain  where  we  were  for 
the  night,  and  Lieutenant  Raban  represented  to  the 
General  the  necessity  of  fortifying  our  position.  This 
duty  he  and  Mansel  and  I  undertook,  I  bringing  my 
Kuki  coolies  to  the  work,  which  we  accomplished 
by  7  P.M. 

*  The  official  medical  report  of  this  campaign  gives  a  deplorable  account 
of  the  sufferings  of  the  wounded,  and  the  gangrene  which  affected  the 
wounds  in  consequence  of  the  extremely  insanitary  condition  of  the  Naga 
villages  and  stockades,  where  the  Naga  warriors  had  been  congregated  for 
weeks  expecting  the  attack — an  additional  reason  why  the  immediate 
pursuit  into  their  strongholds  which  Colonel  Johnstone  had  recommended 
after  the  relief  of  Kohima  should  have  been  carried  out — failing  the 
acceptance  of  the  harsh  terms  of  peace.  See  ante. — ED. 


(     175     ) 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Konoma  evacuated — Journey  to  Suchema  for  provisions  and  ammunition, 
and  return — We  march  to  Suchema  with  General — Visit  Manipur — 
Very  ill — Meet  Sir  Steuart  Bay  ley  in  Cachar — His  visit  to  Manipur — 
Grand  reception — Star  of  India — Chussad  attack  on  Chingsow — March 
to  Kohima  and  back — Reflections  on  Maharajah's  services — Naga 
Hills  campaign  overshadowed  by  Afghan  War. 

GrENEKAL  NATION  had  intended  to  capture  Konoma 
and  return  to  Suchema  at  once,  but  the  stout  resist- 
ance offered  by  the  Nagas  upset  all  calculations,  and 
we  were  thus  stranded  without  warm  clothing  or 
provisions  on  a  bleak  spot,  5000  or  6000  feet  above 
the  sea.  I  sent  off  some  of  my  Naga  emissaries, 
and  induced  the  neutral  men  of  Mozuma  to  go  to 
Suchema  and  bring  the  bedding  of  the  wounded  men 
and  some  food  which  was  done.  With  difficulty  we 
got  enough  water  to  drink,  but  there  was  none  for 
washing,  and  when  at  last  we  sat  down  on  the 
ground  to  eat  our  frugal  meal,  the  doctors  had  to  eat 
with  hands  covered  with  blood,  indeed,  none  of  our 
hands  were  very  presentable.  At  last,  to  our  great 
relief,  our  detatched  parties  returned  one  by  one. 
Lieutenant  (now  Colonel  C.  E.  Macregor,  D.S.O.),  a 
most  gallant  and  capable  officer,  had  been  out  all 
day  with  only  fifteen  men,  and  inflicted  some  injury 
on  the  Nagas.  He  was  Quartermaster-General  of 
the  force,  and  did  good  service  throughout.  The 
accession  of  numbers  was  a  great  relief,  as  we  now 


176  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

had  the  means  of  renewing  the  attack  next  day, 
but  ammunition  and  supplies  were  required,  and 
Williamson  and  I  volunteered  to  go  to  Suchema  for 
them  next  day.  The  night  was  very  cold,  but  we 
managed  to  sleep  all  huddled  up  together,  the  dead 
lying  all  round  us. 

Early  next  morning,  Williamson  and  I  started 
with  all  our  coolies  and  an  escort  of  fifty  men.  We 
saw  no  signs  of  the  enemy,  but  came  across  several 
men  of  the  43rd  who  had  strayed  away  from  their 
detachments  in  the  dark  and  hidden  in  the  jungles. 
At  Suchema  we  found  all  right,  but  before  we  got 
there,  we  saw  our  flag  flying  over  Konoma,  showing, 
as  I  had  expected,  that  it  had  been  evacuated  dur- 
ing the  night.  This  event  immediately  made  our 
neutral  friends  of  Mozuma,  our  allies,  and  they  gave 
us  hearty  assistance,  and  we  took  back  an  ample 
supply  of  provisions.  The  Mozuma  people  told  us 
that  the  Konoma  men  had  never  contemplated  the 
possibility  of  being  driven  out,  and  that  they  had 
stored  up  2000  maunds  of  rice  which  had  fallen  into 
our  hands. 

The  enemy  had  retired  into  some  fortified  stockades 
called  Chukka  on  the  main  range  to  their  rear,  a 
most  difficult  position  to  attack.  I  offered  the 
General  to  carry  the  guns  into  position  for  him  if  he 
cared  to  assault  them,  but  our  loss,  especially  in 
officers,  had  been  so  great  that  he  declined,  and 
probably  he  was  right,  as  the  risk  was  very  great  if 
the  enemy  stood  his  ground,  so  the  Greiieral  decided 
to  await  reinforcements.  All  the  same  it  was  to  be 
regretted  that  we  were  unable  to  deliver  two  or 
three  blows  in  rapid  succession. 


PEACE   PEOPOSALS.  177 

We  left  a  party  at  Konoma  and  marched  to 
Suchema  with  the  wounded,  Ridgeway,  with  great 
courage,  marching  all  the  way  on  foot,  rather  than 
endure  the  shaking  of  an  improvised  litter.  On  the 
27th,  I  joined  a  force,  with  which  we  attacked  and 
destroyed  the  unfriendly  portion  of  Jotsuma,  a  large 
and  powerful  village,  and  on  the  29th,  as  there  was 
nothing  else  to  do,  made  a  rapid  journey  to  Manipur 
with  Lieutenant  Raban,  that  he  might  survey  the 
road  as  I  wanted  the  trace  for  a  cart  road  cut.  We 
returned  on  December  4th. 

On  December  6th,  Williamson  and  I  started  for 
Golaghat,  to  meet  Sir  Steuart  Bay  ley.  At  Sama- 
gudting  I  had  a  perfect  ovation,  all  the  village 
turning  out  to  see  me,  and  greeting  me  warmly  as 
an  old  acquaintance.  Alas !  many  were  suffering 
from  a  disease  we  called  Naga  sores,  and  several  had 
died.  The  once  lovely  place  looked  desolate  and 
miserable,  almost  all  the  fine  trees  had  been  ruth- 
lessly cut  down  by  one  of  my  successors,  in  a  panic, 
lest  they  should  afford  cover  for  hostile  Nagas.  The 
place  looked  so  sad  that  I  could  not  bear  to  stay 
there  as  I  had  intended,  and  left  again  almost 
directly.  We  reached  Golaghat  on  December  9th, 
and  stayed  with  the  Chief  Commissioner  and  started 
again  on  the  12th,  and  rode  fifty-five  miles  into 
Dimapur,  but  I  was  not  at  all  well,  indeed  had  been 
much  the  reverse  for  several  days,  bad  food  and 
hard  work  having  upset  me.  We  reached  Suchema 
on  the  14th. 

Overtures  for  submission  were  made  by  some  of 
the  hostile  villages,  but  I  said  that  an  unconditional 
surrender  of  all  fire-arms,  must  precede  any  negotia- 

N 


178  MY   EXPEKIENCES  IN   MANIPUK. 

tions.  Meanwhile,  I  grew  daily  worse,  and  tne 
doctors  told  me  that  I  must  go  to  Mariipur  for 
change  and  quiet,  which,  as  there  was  nothing  to  be 
done  just  then,  I  did,  leaving  Captain  Williamson  in 
charge  of  the  Political  Department. 

I  reached  Manipur  on  December  22nd,  and  a  day 
or  two's  rest  did  me  so  much  good  that  I  left  again 
on  the  27th,  and  rode  to  Mythephum,  sixty  miles, 
but  was  taken  ill  on  the  road,  and  suffered  most 
dreadful  pain  for  the  last  twenty  miles,  arriving 
completely  prostrated.  The  next  day,  being  worse, 
I  sent  a  message  to  Manipur,  asking  for  the  native 
doctor  and  a  litter  to  be  sent  to  meet  me,  while  I 
got  back  as  far  as  Mayang  Khang  on  my  pony, 
though  hardly  able  to  sit  upright.  I  halted  here 
for  the  night,  but  had  no  sleep,  and  in  the  morning 
started  in  a  rough  litter,  but  the  shaking  increased 
the  pain,  so  that  I  again  tried  riding  till  I  reached 
Kong-nang-pokhee,  twenty  miles  from  Manipur, 
where,  to  my  intense  relief,  I  found  my  doolai  and 
our  native  doctor,  Lachman  Parshad.  I  reached 
Manipur  at  11  P.M. 

Next  day,  December  30th,  I  was  no  better,  and 
as  the  doctor  was  very  anxious,  not  understanding 
my  case,  which  was  acute  inflammation,  my  wife 
wrote  to  Dr.  O'Brien  of  the  44th,  asking  him  to 
come  and  see  me.  I  was  laid  up  till  January  17th, 
and  only  narrowly  escaped  with  life,  my  suffering 
being  aggravated  by  a  deficiency  of  medicine  in 
our  hospital,  and  a  week's  delay  in  getting  it  from 
Cachar.  One  day  I  got  out  of  bed  to  see  Than  gal 
Major  on  very  important  business  connected  with 
Korioma,  of  which  some  of  the  inhabitants  had  tried 


SIR   STEUART  BAYLEY.  179 

to  open  an  intrigue  with  Manipur.  Dr.  O'Brien 
arrived  about  the  13th,  and  left  on  the  18th,  and  I 
was  preparing  to  follow  in  a  few  days,  when  com- 
plications on  the  Lushai  frontier  detained  me,  and 
then  as  the  Chief  Commissioner  was  about  to  come 
up  en  route  to  the  Naga  Hills,  to  present  the  Maha- 
rajah with  the  order  of  the  Star  of  India  in  recogni- 
tion of  his  services,  I  waited  till  I  could  march  up 
with  him. 

On  January  30th,  I  heard  that  the  Baladhun  tea 
factory  in  Cachar  had  been  attacked,  and  a  European 
and  several  coolies  killed  by  the  Merema  clan  of 
Konoma.  Knowing  that  Cachar  was  badly  off  for 
troops,  I  asked  the  Durbar  to  send  two  hundred  men  to 
the  frontier,  close  to  the  tea  factory,  to  aid  the  Cachar 
authorities,  and  this  was  done.  On  February  6th,  I 
started  for  Cachar  to  meet  the  Chief  Commissioner, 
reaching  that  place  on  the  7th,  and  marched  back 
with  him,  arriving  at  Manipur  on  February  20th, 
where  he  was  received  with  every  demonstration  of 
respect,  the  Maharajah  turning  out  with  all  his  court 
to  meet  him  at  the  usual  place,  and  escorting  him  to 
the  spot  where  the  road  turned  off  to  the  Residency. 

The  Chief  Commissioner's  visit  gave  the  greatest 
satisfaction  to  every  one  in  Manipur.  He  stayed  five 
days,  during  which  he  had  several  interviews  with 
the  Maharajah,  and  held  a  grand  Durbar,  at  which  he 
invested  him  with  the  star  and  badge  of  a  K.C.S.I. 
He  also  attended  a  review  held  by  the  Rajah,  besides 
seeing  all  the  sights  of  the  place,  including  a  game 
of  polo  by  picked  players.  In  fact  the  visit  was  a 
thorough  success,  and  the  Manipuris  often  spoke  of 
it  with  pleasure  years  afterwards. 

x  2 


ISO  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

Just  before  we  started  for  the  Naga  Hills,  I 
received  the  news  of  an  attack  by  the  Chussad  Kulds 
on  the  Tankhool  village  of  Chingsow,  to  the  north- 
east of  Manipur,  forty-five  people  were  said  to  have 
been  killed  or  carried  off;  and  the  excitement  was  all 
the  greater  from  the  belief  entertained  that  the  attack 
had  been  instigated  by  the  Burmese.  I  determined, 
after  consultation  with  Sir  Steuart  Bayley,  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  spot  myself,  and  investigate  the  whole 
affair ;  and  it  was,  therefore,  decided  that,  after 
escorting  him  to  Kohima,  I  should  return  to  Manipur 
and  take  up  the  case.  We  marched  to  Kohima, 
which  we  reached  on  March  1st,  and  on  the  2nd,  I 
returned  to  Mao,  en  route  to  Manipur,  where  I  arrived 
on  March  5th. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  of  the  Nago  Hills,  I 
ought  to  say,  that,  it  is  difficult  to  over-estimate  our 
obligation  to  the  Maharajah,  for  his  loyal  conduct 
during  the  insurrection  and  subsequent  troubles. 
According  to  his  own  belief,  we  had  deprived  him  of 
territory  belonging  to  him,  and  which  he  had  been 
allowed  to  claim  as  his  own.  The  Nagas  asked  him 
to  help  them,  and  promised  to  become  his  feudatories,  if 
only  he  would  not  act  against  them.  The  temptation 
must  have  been  strong,  to  at  least  serve  us  as  we 
deserved,  by  leaving  us  in  the  lurch  to  get  out  of  the 
mess,  as  best  as  we  could.  Instead  of  this,  Chandra 
Kirtee  Singh  loyally  and  cheerfully  placed  his 
resources  at  our  disposal,  and  certainly  by  enabling 
me  to  march  to  its  relief,  prevented  the  fall  of 
Kohima,  and  the  disastrous  results  which  would  have 
inevitably  followed.  It  is  grievous  to  think  that  his 
son,  the  then  Jubraj  Soor  Chandra  Singh,  who  served 


THE   AFGHAN  WAR.        -  181 

us  so  well,  was  allowed  to  die  in  exile,  and  that 
Thangal  Major  died  on  the  scaffold  :  while  many 
others  who  accompanied  the  expedition,  were  trans- 
ported as  criminals,  across  the  dreaded  "  black  water  " 
to  the  Andamans. 

It  was  the  misfortune  of  those  engaged  in  the 
Naga  Hills  expedition,  that  they  were  overshadowed, 
and  their  gallant  deeds  almost  ignored,  by  the  Afghan 
war  then  in  progress.  Some  of  the  English  papers 
imagined  that  the  operations  in  the  Naga  Hills  were 
included  in  it,  and  the  Grovernment  of  India, 
which  has  only  eyes  for  the  North- West  Frontier, 
showed  little  desire  to  recognise  the  hard  work,  and 
good  service  rendered  on  its  eastern  border,  amidst 
difficulties  far  greater  than  those  which  beset  our 
troops  in  Afghanistan.  The  force  engaged,  hoped 
that  the  capture  of  Konorna,  which  was  achieved  after 
such  hard  fighting  and  at  so  great  a  loss,  would  have 
been  at  least  recognised  by  some  special  decoration, 
but  this  hope  was  disappointed,  apparently  for  no 
other  reason,  than  that  the  troops  engaged,  fought 
in  the  east,  and  not  in  the  west  of  India.  Kaye,  the 
historian,  once  said  that, "  the  countries  to  the  east  of 
the  Bay  of  Bengal,  were  the  grave  of  fame."  Well 
did  the  Naga  Hills  campaign,  prove  the  truth  of  his 
words.  A  bronze  star  was  the  reward  of  a  bloodless 
march  from  Kabul  to  Kandahar,  but  not  even  a 
clasp  could  be  spared  to  commemorate  the  capture 
of  Konoma,  and  those  who  never  saw  a  shot  fired, 
shared  the  medal  awarded  equally  with  those  who 
fought  and  bled  in  that  bloody  fight. 


182  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Visit  Chinjrsow  to  investigate  Chussad  outrage — Interesting  country — 
Rhododendrons — Splendid  forest — Chingsow  and  the  murder — 
Chattik — March  back  across  the  hills. 

I  HAD  not  fully  recovered  my  strength  after  my 
illness,  and  besides  there  was  much  to  do,  so  I  did 
not  start  for  Chingsow  till  the  llth,  when  I  marched 
to  Lairen,  twenty-five  miles  distant.  Near  a  place 
called  Susa  Kamerig,  where  the  hills  approach  each 
other  very  closely,  from  either  side  of  the  valley,  a 
rampart  connects  them.  It  was  built  in  former  days 
as  a  barrier  against  the  Tankhools,  when  they  were 
the  scourge  of  the  neighbourhood. 

After  leaving  Susa  Kameng,  the  valley  narrowed 
for  some  miles,  and  then  we  crossed  a  ridge  about 
1000  feet  above  it,  and  finally  descended  into  a 
charming  little  upland  valley,  which,  but  for  the 
Kukis,  those  terrible  enemies  of  trees  and  animal  life, 
would  be  the  cherished  home  of  wild  elephants. 
After  crossing  this,  we  again  made  a  slight  descent, 
and  found  ourselves  close  to  the  camp  on  a  lovely 
stream.  There  I  found  Bularam  Singh,  who  was  to 
be  minister  in  attendance  on  me  during  my  march, 
that  part  of  the  country  being  under  his  jurisdiction. 
The  next  day  we  went  on  to  Noong-suong-kong 


MOUNTAIN  SCENERY.  183 

over  a  most  lovely  country,  often.  5000  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  with  hill  villages  in  the  most  romantic 
situation ;  and — remarkable  sign  of  the  peace  pro- 
duced by  the  rule  of  Manipur — we  met  large 
numbers  of  unarmed  wayfarers.  This  day  we  also 
saw  terrace  cultivation,  in  which  the  Tankhools 
excel,  and  rhododendrons  in  full  flower,  a  splendid 
sight.  The  next  day,  after  another  most  interesting 
march,  we  halted  in  a  pretty  upland  valley,  5100  feet 
above  the  sea;  the  valley  was  long,  and  a  stream 
meandered  through  it,  the  banks  being  clothed 
with  willows  and  wild  pear  trees,  covered  with 
blossoms.  The  hillsides  were  well-wooded,  the 
trees  being  chiefly  pines  with  rhododendrons  here 
and  there. 

On  March  14th,  we  descended  the  Korigou-Chow- 
Chirig,  and  in  a  village  I  saw  for  the  first  time 
shingle  roofs.  We  passed  the  last  fir  tree  at  5800  feet, 
and  reached  the  watershed  at  7300  feet.  At  the 
top  of  the  pass  in  a  slightly  sheltered  position,  was 
a  solitary  rhododendron.  The  cold  was  so  great 
that,  though  walking,  I  was  glad  to  put  on  a  thick 
great-coat ;  the  winds  were  exceedingly  piercing. 
Some  of  the  hills  round  were  denuded  of  trees,  and 
the  hill  people  said  that  it  was  the  severity  of  the 
winds  that  prevented  their  growth.  The  view  from 
the  highest  point  was  splendid,  on  all  sides  a  mag- 
nificent array  of  hills  and  valleys.  Near  to  us  were 
some  of  the  most  luxuriant  forests  I  have  ever  seen, 
the  trees  of  large  size,  and  many  of  them  with 
gnarled  trunks,  recalling  the  giants  of  an  English 
park.  Under  some  of  these  trees  was  a  greensward 
where  it  would  have  been  delightful  to  encamp, 


184  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN.MANIPUR. 

had  time  allowed,  but  the  difficulty  of  obtaining 
water  limits  one's  halting  place  in  the  hills.  Every- 
where on  the  western  face  of  the  hills  pines  seemed 
to  stop  at  5800  feet;  but  on  the  east  they  rose 
to  9400  ! 

Four  villages,  in  the  Tankhool  country,  apparently 
monopolised  the  bulk  of  the  cloth  manufactures,  and 
different  tribal  patterns  were  made  to  suit  the 
purchaser.  Some  of  these  cloths  are  very  handsome 
and  strong,  and  calculated  to  wear  for  a  long  time. 
But  the  superior  energy  of  the  Manipuris  in  cloth 
weaving,  has  greatly  injured  the  trade  in  the  hill 
villages ;  in  the  same  way  that  Manchester  and 
Paisley  have  injured  the  weaving  trade  in  most 
of  India.  The  Manipuris  supply  a  fair  pattern 
of  the  different  tribal  cloths  at  a  lower  price, 
and  thus  manage  to  undersell  those  of  native  manu- 
facture, but  the  quality  is  not  nearly  so  good 
as  in  the  original.  The  prices  in  the  hills  are 
decidedly  high.  Every  village  has  its  blacksmith, 
but  some  devote  themselves  more  especially  to 
ironwork. 

We  reached  Chingsow  on  March  15th,  after  a 
march  of  twelve  miles  that  morning,  chiefly  made  up 
of  ascents  and  descents,  some  being  so  steep  that  it 
was  with  difficulty  that  we  got  along.  Finally,  after 
a  direct  ascent  of  4980  feet,  followed  by  a  descent  of 
3600  feet,  we  reached  our  encamping  ground  below  the 
village  which  towered  above  us.  The  next  day  I  in- 
vestigated the  case,  and  found  that,  as  reported,  twenty 
males  and  twenty-five  females  had  been  murdered. 
I  saw  the  fresh  graves  and  dug  up  one  a,s  evidence, 
the  bodies  contained  in  it  were  those  of  a  mother  and 


A  MASSACRE.  185 

child,  and  presented  a  frightful  spectacle  with  half 
of  the  heads  cut  off,  including  the  scalp,  and  both  in 
an  advanced  state  of  decomposition.  It  appeared  that 
a  demand  has  been  made  by  Tonghoo,  the  Chussad 
Chief,  that  the  Chingsow  Nagas  should  submit  to  him 
and  pay  tribute,  but  they,  of  course,  refused  as 
subjects  of  Manipur.  They  heard  of  nothing  more 
till  they  were  attacked  on  the  morning  of  the  fatal 
day.  The  people  had  just  begun  to  stir,  and  some 
had  lighted  their  fires,  when  suddenly  they  heard 
the  fire  of  musketry  at  the  entrance  of  the  village. 
They  ran  out  of  their  houses,  and  the  Chussads  fell 
upon  them,  and  the  massacre  commenced.  The 
assailants  were  about  fifty  in  number,  arid  the  people 
in  their  terror  were  driven  in  all  directions,  and 
slaughtered,  some  being  shot  and  others  being  cut 
down  by  daos. 

While  this  was  going  on,  some  of  the  men  assembled 
with  spears  and  advanced  on  the  Chussads,  who  then 
retreated  firing  the  village,  and  carrying  off  all  the 
pigs,  spears  and  iron  hoes  they  could  lay  hands  on. 
Five  Nagas  of  Chattik  came  with  the  Chussads  and 
were  recognised.  The  village  of  Chingsow  was 
most  strongly  situated,  even  more  so  than  Konoma, 
indeed,  the  same  might  be  said  of  many  villages  in 
that  part  of  the  country,  and  is  entered  by  long 
winding  paths  cut  through  the  rock,  by  which  only 
one  man  at  a  time  could  pass,  so  that  well  defended 
it  would  be  difficult  to  take.  But  the  fact  was  that 
Manipur  having  put  a  stop  to  blood  feuds  among 
jts  subjects,  had  rather  placed  them  at  a  disadvan- 
tage, as  they  were  not  quite  as  well  prepared  for 
an  attack  as  formerly. 


186  MY  EXPEKIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

After  leaving  Chirigsow,  we  marched  through  a 
pretty  country,  part  of  our  way  lying  along  a 
high  ridge  with  a  precipice  on  one  side,  and  a 
deep  ravine  on  the  other,  and  we  finally  halted 
in  a  stream  far  below  our  last  camp.  Every  march 
was  a  succession  of  steep  ascents  and  then  equally 
steep  descents  into  narrow  valleys.  It  was  most 
exasperating  sometimes  to  see  how  needlessly  an 
ascent  was  made  over  a  high  ridge,  when  a 
path  of  no  greater  length  could  have  been  made 
round  it. 

On  the  17th,  I  encamped  beside  a  river  where  I 
was  visited  by  many  Tankhools,  including  children, 
who  crowded  round  me  fearlessly.  The  people  were 
a  fine  race,  but  almost  inconceivably  dirty,  some  of 
them  seemed  grimed  with  the  dirt  of  years.  There 
were  plenty  of  fine  pieces  of  terrace  cultivation.  It 
was  very  curious  to  find  that  among  the  Tankhools 
there  seemed  to  be  a  universal  belief  that  they 
originally  sprung  from  the  "  Mahawullee,"  or  sacred 
grove  in  Manipur. 

On  March  18th,  we  reached  Chattik,  a  fine  village 
on  a  ridge  from  which  we  had  a  splendid  view, 
including  the  Chussad  villages.  As  I  had  done  all  I 
had  come  for,  and  wished  to  see  a  new  country,  I 
determined  to  march  back  straight  to  Manipur  across 
the  hills.  It  was  not  the  beaten  track  which  lay  by 
Kongal  Tannah,  and  no  one  in  my  camp  knew  it,  but 
I  felt  sure  it  could  be  found,  and  old  Bularam  Singh 
cheerfully  agreed.  We  started  on  the  19th,  and 
after  passing  a  village  that  had  been  plundered  by 
the  Chussads,  we  halted  after  a  sixteen-mile  march, 
during  which  I  was  badly  hurt  by  a  bamboo  which 


A   PROSPEROUS  VILLAGE.  187 

pierced  my  leg.  On  the  march  we  passed  some 
terrible-looking  pits,  12  feet  deep,  and  about  3  or  3^ 
feet  wide  with  sharp  stakes  at  the  bottom.  They  are 
meant  to  catch  enemies  on  the  war  path,  or  deer,  and 
are  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  roads  and  covered 
lightly.  God  help  the  poor  man  or  animal  who  is 
impaled  in  these  horrible  pits  and  dies  in  agony,  for 
no  one  else  will. 

On  the  20th,  we  halted  at  Pong,  after  an  interest- 
ing but  tiring  march,  during  which  we  crossed  the 
summit  of  a  high  range  at  7100  feet,  covered  with 
forest,  and  small  and  very  solid  bamboos.  The 
descent  was  through  a  noble  pine  forest  with  trees 
that  must  have  been  two  hundred  feet  high.  It 
rained  heavily,  and  when  we  halted  I  should  have 
had  a  miserable  night  of  it  but  for  the  care  of  the 
Manipuris,  who  built  me  a  comfortable  hut,  and 
went  away  smiling  and  cheerful  to  cook  their 
food,  though  they  looked  half  drowned.  Never  did 
I  see  men  work  better  under  difficulties.  Owing 
to  them  I  had  as  nice  a  resting-place  as  a  man 
on  the  march  could  want,  and  an  hour  after  I  had 
an  excellent  dinner. 

We  started  early  next  morning,  and  made  a 
gradual  ascent  till  we  reached  Hoondoong,  a 
Tankhool  village  5200  feet  above  the  sea.  After 
that  our  road  lay  through  a  splendid  fir  forest, 
with  here  and  there  an  avenue  of  oaks,  but  from 
time  to  time  we  came  across  large  tracts  of  forest 
that  had  been  laid  low  and  burned.  At  Hoondoong 
I  saw  some  curious  graves,  high  mounds  shaped  like 
a  large  H. 

They  were  outside  the  village.     There  were  also 


188  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

more  and  better-looking  women  and  children  than 
are  to  be  seen  in  most  Tankhool  villages.  The  men 
of  the  Tankhool  race  are,  in  physique,  quite  equal  to 
the  Angamis. 

In  the  main  street  of  Hoondoong,  there  were  two 
rows  of  dead  trees  about  twenty  feet  high,  planted  in 
front  of  the  houses,  and  orchids  were  growing  on 
them.  The  people  seemed  happy  and  contented 
under  the  rule  of  Manipur,  and  their  houses  were 
large  and  commodious  structures. 

We  reached  Eethum  Tannah  in  the  valley  of 
Manipur  after  a  terrible  descent,  rendered  all  the 
more  difficult  by  heavy  rain,  which  made  the  narrow 
path  so  slippery  as  to  be  almost  impassable.  During 
the  whole  of  my  long  march  through  a  wild 
country  covered  with  forest  I  had,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Hoolook  monkey  (Hyloliete)  seen  no  wild 
animals,  scarcely  a  bird  ! 

I  reached  Manipur  on  March  22nd,  having  greatly 
enjoyed  my  tour  in  the  hills,  and  had  hardly 
arrived  when  Thangel  Major  came  to  see  me  and 
talk  about  the  Chussad  business.  Soon  after  I  sent 
to  Tonghoo,  the  Chussad  chief,  to  demand  his  sub- 
mission. He  did  not  come  himself,  but  sent  his 
brother  Yankapo.  The  Manipuris  thought  this  a 
grand  opportunity  to  secure  hostages,  and  begged 
me  to  allow  the  arrest  of  him  and  his  followers. 
I  severely  rebuked  them  for  making  such  a  treach- 
erous proposal. 

I  had  several  interviews  with  the  young  chief  and 
his  followers  who  spoke  Manipuri  fluently,  and 
admitted  that  they  were  subjects  of  the  Maharajah. 
This  visit  eventually  led  to  a  better  understanding 


SUBMISSION.  189 

with  the  Chussads,  and  to  the  submission  of  Tonghoo 
himself,  who  subsequently  became  a  peaceable  sub- 
ject. For  the  present,  however,  I  had  to  exact 
reparation  for  the  attack  on  Chingsow,  and  for  some 
months  the  affair  cost  me  much  anxiety. 


190  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN   MAN1PUE. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Saving  a  criminal  from  execution — Konoma  men  visit  me — A  terrible 
earthquake — Destruction  wrought  in  the  capital — Illness  of  the 
Maharajah — Question  as  to  the  succession — Arrival  of  the  Queen's 
warrant — Reception  by  Maharajah — The  Burmese  question. 

ABOUT  this  time  I  heard  one  morning  that  a  man 
had  been  convicted  in  concert  with  a  woman  of 
committing  a  grave  offence,  and  that  the  woman 
had,  according  to  custom,  been  sentenced  to  be 
exposed  in  every  bazaar  in  the  country,  in  the  way 
already  described.  The  man  had  been  sentenced 
to  death,  and  ordered  to  Shoogoonoo  for  execution. 
As  the  offence  was  not  one  which  our  courts  would 
punish  with  death,  I  sent  a  friendly  remonstrance 
to  the  Maharajah,  and  requested  that  he  might  be 
produced  before  me,  that  I  might  satisfy  myself 
that  he  was  uninjured.  The  Maharajah  at  once 
consented,  and  in  a  few  days  the  man  was  brought 
before  me  safe  and  sound,  and  after  having  been  ex- 
posed as  a  criminal  in  several  bazaars,  he  was  sentenced 
with  my  approval  to  a  fitting  term  of  imprisonment. 
I  also  asked  the  minister  in  future,  to  let  me  know 
for  certain  when  a  sentence  of  death  was  passed, 
that  I  might  advise  them,  without  appearing  to  the 
outer  world  to  interfere,  in  case  they  inadvertently 
condemned  a  man  to  capital  punishment,  for  a  crime 


CRIMINAL   REFORMS. 

which  our  laws  would  not  approve  of  being  visited 
so  severely.  Realising  that  rny  object  was  to  save 
them  from  discredit,  they  at  once  consented,  and  I 
hinted  that  I  would  never  sanction  the  penalty  of 
death  for  cow-killing. 

As  I  have  stated,  it  had  been  almost  always  the 
custom  to  refer  death  sentences  to  me.  Often  and 
often  when  I  made  a  remonstrance  to  the  ministers 
about  any  contemplated  action  of  which  I  dis- 
approved, I  was  told  that  I  misapprehended  the 
state  of  things,  and  that  nothing  of  the  kind  was 
intended.  Of  course,  I  let  them  down  easily,  and 
appeared  satisfied  with  their  assurances.  However, 
neither  party  was  deceived,  they  accepted  my  strong 
hint  in  a  friendly  spirit,  and  knew  well  that  I  took 
their  denial  as  a  mere  matter  of  form.  The  result 
was  what  I  cared  for,  and  it  was  generally  achieved 
without  friction. 

One  of  the  most  unpleasant  parts  of  iny  duty  was 
the  perpetual  necessity  of  saying  "  No "  to  the 
ministers.  My  great  object  was  to  be  continually 
building  up  our  prestige.  Colonel  McCulloch  had 
said  to  me,  "  Never  make  any  concession  to  the 
Manipuris  without  an  equivalent,"  and  it  is  incon- 
ceivable how  many  times  in  our  daily  intercourse 
I  had  to  refuse  little  apparently  insignificant,  but 
really  insidious  requests.  The  struggle  on  behalf 
of  native  British  subjects  was  long  kept  up,  but  in 
the  end  I  gained  my  point,  and  their  rights  and 
privileges  were  fully  recognised. 

Early  in  June,  some  men  of  the  Mereina  clan  of 
Konoma  who  were  fugitives  in  a  very  wild  part  of 
the  hills  of  Manipur  bordering  on  the  Naga  Hills, 


192  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

came  to  me,  making  a  piteous  appeal  for  mercy, 
saying  they  would  have  nothing  to  do  with  the 
Naga  Hills  officials,  but  came  to  me  as  their  old 
friend  and  master  in  the  days  when  I  was  at  Sarna- 

«/ 

gudting.  As  they  came  in  trusting  to  my  honour, 
I  would  not  have  them  arrested,  but  sent  them  away, 
telling  them  that  nothing  but  good  and  loyal  conduct 
on  their  part  could  win  my  esteem,  and  that  they 
must  make  their  submission  and  deliver  up  Mr. 
Damant's  murderers  to  the  Political  Officer  in  the 
Naga  Hills,  before  I  consented  to  deal  with  them. 
I  also  gave  orders  to  the  Manipuri  troops  on  the 
frontier,  to  act  with  the  utmost  vigour  against  all 
Konoma  men  found  within  the  territory  of  Manipur. 

Soon  after  some  Lushais  visited  me,  and  we 
settled  up  a  long-standing  dispute  between  them  and 
Manipur. 

The  Konoma  men  continued  to  give  much  trouble, 
and  to  keep  some  check  on  them,  I  refused  at  last 
to  allow  any  to  enter  Manipur,  except  by  the  Mao 
Tannah,  and  furnished  with  a  pass  from  the  Political 
Officer,  Colonel  Michell.  I  also  arrested  one  of  the 
supposed  murderers,  but  the  evidence  against  him 
was  not  considered  quite  satisfactory. 

On  the  morning  of  June  30th,  at  4.45,  when  we 
were  at  Kang-joop-kool  there  was  a  violent  earth- 
quake, the  oscillations  continuing  with  great  force 
from  north  to  south,  and  apparently  in  a  less  degree 
from  east  to  west  for  some  minutes.  Plaster  was 
shaken  from  the  walls,  and  crockery  and  bottles 
thrown  down,  and  furniture  upset.  Locked  doors 
were  flung  open  and  the  whole  house,  built  of  wood 
and  bamboo,  shaken  as  by  a  giant  hand.  Two  Naga 


AN   EARTHQUAKE.  193 

girls  sleeping  in  my  children's  room  next  to  the  one 
my  wife  and  I  occupied,  sprang  up  and  ran  outside, 
my  two  boys,  not  realising  what  was  up,  seemed  to 
think  it  a  good  joke.  We  all  got  up  and  hurried  on 
our  things  to  be  ready  for  an  emergency,  but  I  soon 
saw  that  all  present  danger  was  over.  At  8.50  A.M., 
there  was  another  sharp  shock,  and  again  about 
2  P.M.,  besides  several  slighter  ones. 

In  the  valley,  and  especially  at  the  capital,  the 
shocks  were  of  the  utmost  violence  and  the  earth- 
quake said  to  be  the  worst  known  with  the  exception 
of  the  terrible  one  of  January  1869.  Many  houses 
built  of  wood  and  bamboo  were  levelled  with  the 
ground,  the  ruins  at  Langthabal  greatly  injured,  and 
a  peepul  tree  growing  over  a  picturesque  old  temple 
torn  off.  The  old  Residency  was  greatly  injured, 
part  being  thrown  down,  and  the  fireplace  and 
chimney  shaken  into  fragments,  but  still,  strange  to 
say,  standing.  Some  houses  in  the  Residency  com- 
pound were  rendered  useless.  The  great  brick 
bridge  on  the  Cachar  road  was  cracked  and  much 
damage  done.  The  earth  opened  in  several  places. 
The  new  Residency,  which  was  nearly  finished,  and 
was  built  in  the  old  English  half-timbered  style,  was 
intact. 

During  the  next  few  days  several  more  shocks 
occurred,  causing  much  alarm  among  the  people,  who 
predicted  something  still  worse.  The  earthquake 
was  followed  by  the  severest  outbreak  of  cholera  that 
I  had  witnessed  since  a  dreadful  epidemic  in  Assam 
in  1860.  There  were  many  deaths  in  the  palace, 
and  public  business  was  at  a  standstill.  I  was 
unable  to  lay  any  question  before  the  Durbar,  as  half 

o 


194  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUB. 

the  officials  were  performing  the  funeral  ceremonies 
of  relations.  The  great  bazaar  was  closed  at  sunset, 
and  even  then  many  of  the  sellers  went  home  to  find 
their  children  dead  or  dying.  Everywhere  on  the 
banks  of  the  rivers,  and  streams,  people  might  be 
seen  performing  the  funeral  obsequies  of  relations 
and  lamenting  the  dead.  Amid  this  trouble,  the 
attitude  of  all  classes  was  such  as  to  excite  admira- 
tion, there  were  no  cases  of  sick  being  deserted  and 
every  one  appeared  calm  and  collected. 

Later  on,  the  cholera  attacked  my  village  of  Kang- 
joop-kool,  and  ten  per  cent,  of  the  population  died. 

Early  in  the  autumn,  the  Maharajah  was  taken  ill 
with  an  abscess  behind  the  ear,  and  great  appre- 
hensions were  entertained  for  his  life.  The  whole 
capital  was  for  weeks  in  a  state  of  alarm,  fearing  a 
struggle  for  the  throne  in  case  of  his  death.  The 
four  eldest  sons,  and  also  some  members  of  the  family 
of  the  late  Eajah  Nur  Singh,  had  their  followers 
armed  so  as  to  be  ready  to  assert  their  several  claims 
immediately  the  Maharajah  died,  the  former  were 
constantly  in  attendance  on  their  father  night  arid 
day.  The  Maharajah  was  himself  very  anxious 
about  the  conduct  of  his  younger  sons.  As  suffoca- 
tion might  any  moment  have  terminated  the  invalid's 
life,  I  made  all  necessary  plans,  with  a  view  to 
acting  promptly,  if  required,  and,  in  conjunction  with 
Thangal  Major,  arranged  so  as  to  secure  the  guns 
and  bring  them  over  to  the  Residency  the  moment 
that  he  died.  I  also  desired  the  Jubraj  (heir 
apparent)  to  come  over  to  me  at  once,  in  the  event  of 
the  death  of  his  father,  that  I  might  instantly  pro- 
claim him  and  give  him  my  support.  I  had  a  most 


THE   MAHAEAJAH  ILL.  195 

grateful  message  from  the  Maharajah  in  reply,  as 
also  from  the  Jubraj,  who  promised  to  abide  entirely 
by  my  instructions.  However,  the  abscess  burst,  and 
the  Maharajah  recovered,  and  though  a  shot  im- 
prudently fired  one  evening  led  to  a  panic  when 
the  bazaar  was  deserted,  things  soon  settled  down 
again. 

As  soon  as  the  Maharajah  was  again  able  to 
transact  business,  he  begged  me  to  write  to  the 
Government  of  India  and  request  that  the  Jubraj 
should  be  acknowledged  by  them  as  his  successor.  I 
did  so,  at  the  same  time  strongly  urging  that  the 
guarantee  should  be  extended  to  the  Jubraj's  children, 
so  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  a  disputed  suc- 
cession on  his  death.  The  Jubraj  earnestly  supported 
this  request,  but  the  Maharajah  preferred  adhering 
to  the  old  Manipuri  custom,  which  really  seemed 
made  to  encourage  strife.  If,  for  instance,  a  man  had 
ten  sons,  they  all  succeeded  one  after  the  other, 
passing  over  the  children  of  the  elder  ones,  but  when 
the  last  one  died,  then  his  children  succeeded  as 
children  of  the  last  Eajah,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  the 
elder  brothers'  children.  All  the  same,  if  these  could 
make  good  their  claim  by  force  of  arms,  they  were 
cheerfully  accepted  by  the  people  who  were  ready  to 
take  any  scion  of  Royalty. 

The  consequence  had  always  been  in  former  days 
that  to  prevent  troublesome  claims,  a  man,  on 
ascending  the  throne,  immediately  made  every  effort 
to  murder  all  possible  competitors.  It  is  obvious 
that  such  a  cumbersome  system  was  undesirable,  and 
I  held  that  having  once  interfered  we  ought  to  set 
things  on  a  proper  and  sensible  basis,  and  that  there 

o  2 


196  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

was  no  middle  course  between  this  and  leaving  the 
people  to  themselves.  Thangal  Major,  who  always 
greatly  dreaded  the  violent  and  unscrupulous  dis- 
position of  Kotwal  Koireng  (afterwards  Senapattee), 
agreed  with  me.  The  Maharajah,  however,  with  a 
father's  tenderness  for  his  sons,  would  not  advocate 
my  proposal,  but  still,  would  have  gladly  accepted  it. 
The  Government  of  India  judged  differently,  and 
only  sanctioned  my  proposal  so  far  as  to  allow 
me  to  say  that  they  would  guarantee  the  Jubraj's 
succession,  and  maintain  him  on  his  throne.  This 
decision  gave  great  satisfaction. 

This  year  was  unpleasantly  distinguished  by  a 
great  deficiency  of  rain  in  the  valley,  and  a  corre- 
sponding superfluity,  though  at  irregular  intervals, 
in  the  hills.  For  a  long  time  there  were  appre- 
hensions of  scarcity,  while  in  the  hills  the  rainfall 
was  so  heavy  that  the  Laimetak  bridge  was  washed 
away  and  the  river  rose  six  feet  above  its  banks. 
On  one  side,  a  large  portion  of  its  pebbly  bed  was 
hollowed  out,  and  much  widened,  and  80  feet  width 
of  solid  boulders  carried  away.  The  Eerung  rose 
about  40  feet,  and  portions  of  the  hill  road  were  cut 
away,  but  the  want  of  steady  rain  was  felt. 

By  the  end  of  September,  the  Maharajah  was  able 
to  transact  business,  though,  as  he  was  not  well 
enough  to  visit  me,  I  visited  him,  that  I  might 
congratulate  him  on  his  recovery,  and  present  him 
with  Her  Majesty's  warrant,  appointing  him  a 
Knight  Commander  of  the  Star  of  India.  The 
papers  bearing  the  Queen's  signature  were  received 
with  a  salute  of  thirty-one  guns,  and  the  Maharajah 
rose  to  take  it  from  my  hand,  and  at  once  placed  it 


THE   STAE   OF'  INDIA.  197 

on  his  forehead,  making  an  obeisance.  I  then  made 
a  speech  to  all  assembled,  expressing  my  satisfaction 
at  the  Maharajah's  recovery,  and  the  gratification  it 
gave  me  to  be  the  means  of  conveying  the  warrant 
to  him. 

Nothing  of  great  importance  now  occurred,  but  I 
was  constantly  occupied  by  the  troubled  state  of  the 
eastern  frontier  of  Manipur  where  Sumjok  (Thoung- 
doot)  continued  to  intrigue  with  the  Chussad  arid 
Choomyang  Kukil,  who  were  a  ceaseless  trouble  to 
the  Tankhool  Nagas,  about  Chattik.  These  intrigues 
were  conducted  with  a  view  to  gaining  over  the 
latter  as  subjects.  The  chief  difficulty  of  Manipur 
was,  that  the  boundary  had  never  been  properly 
defined,  so  neither  party  had  a  good  case  against  the 
other.  Manipur  was  in  possession,  but  otherwise 
everything  was  unsatisfactory,  our  failure  to  settle 
the  Kongal  case  having  encouraged  the  Burmese 
authorities  to  resistance. 


198  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

March  to  Mao  and  improvement  of  the  road — Lieutenant  Eaban — Constant 
troubles  with  Burmah — Visit  to  Mr.  Elliott  at  Kohima — A  tiger 
hunt  made  easy — A  perilous  adventure — Hose  bushes — Brutal  conduct 
of  Prince  Koireng — We  leave  Manipur  for  England. 

IN  November,  I  marched  to  Mao  on  the  Naga  Hills 
frontier,  and  arranged  for  the  improvement  of  some 
of  the  halting  places  on  the  way.  I  also  asked 
Sir  Steuart  Bayley,  the  Chief  Commissioner,  to 
allow  Lieutenant  Raban,  R.E.,  to  visit  Manipur, 
with  a  view  to  laying  out  the  line  of  a  cart  road 
from  the  Manipur  valley  to  Mao.  This  arrangement 
he  sanctioned,  and  Lieutenant  Raban  arrived  in 
Manipur  on  December  30th,  1880.  The  line  from 
Sengmai  was  bad  throughout,  and  an  exceedingly 
difficult  one  in  many  places.  Thangal  Major  accom- 
panied us,  and  I  had  induced  the  Maharajah  to  open 
out  a  narrow  road,  on  being  supplied  with  the 
necessary  tools.  We  carefully  examined  the  whole 
of  the  road  in  detail,  and,  after  deciding  on  the  line 
to  adopt,  cut  the  trace.  It  was  a  matter  requiring 
great  skill  and  patience,  both  of  which  Lieutenant 
Raban  had.  He  was  very  ably  seconded  by  the 
Manipuris,  whose  keen  intelligence  made  them  good 
auxiliaries.  Often  the  line  had  to  be  cut  along  the 
face  of  a  cliff,  but  fortunately  the  rock  was  soft,  and 
the  work  was  accomplished  without  accident.  The 


A   NEW  EOAD.  199 

way  we  turned  the  head  of  the  Mao  river,  the 
descent  to  and  ascent  from  which  I  had  so  often,  so 
painfully  accomplished,  was  a  great  success,  and  did 
not  materially  increase  the  distance,  as  we  saved  it 
by  striking  the  main  path  at  different  points.* 

In  the  village  of  Mukhel  near  which  we  passed, 
we  saw  a  pear  tree  three  or  four  hundred  years  old, 
and  greatly  venerated  by  the  villagers.  In  the 
same  village  I  saw  a  Naga  cut  another  man's  hair 
with  a  dao  (sword).  The  operation  was  performed 
most  dexterously  and  neatly,  by  holding  the  dao 
under  the  hair,  and  then  slightly  tapping  the  latter 
with  a  small  piece  of  wood.  The  result  was  that  the 
hair-cutting  was  as  neatly  accomplished  as  it  could 
have  been  by  the  best  London  hair-dresser.  I  asked 
a  fine  young  Naga  why  all  his  tribe  wore  a  single 
long  tuft  of  hair  at  the  back  ?  He  at  once  replied, 
"  To  make  the  girls  admire  me,"  and  added  that 
without  it,  he  should  be  laughed  at.  This  is  the 
only  explanation  I  ever  had  of  the  curious  fact  that 
most  of  the  Naga  tribes  wear  a  long  tuft  behind, 
like  Hindoos.  By  the  third  week  in  January  we 
had  laid  out  the  line  of  road.  Thangal  Major 
approved  of  most  of  it,  but  said,  regarding  the  piece 
between  Sengmai  and  Kaithemahee,  "  I  will  cut  it  as 
I  promised,  but  who  will  ever  use  it  ? "  I  differed 
from  him,  as  nothing  could  exceed  the  tortuous  and 

'  C.7 

hilly  nature  of  the  old  road,  running  as  it  did  across 
one  succession  of  spurs  and  deep  ravines,  one  of 
the  most  heart-breaking  paths  I  ever  went  along. 

*  This  was  the  road  along  which  Colonel  Johnstone  had  marched  to 
relieve  Kohima.  The  old  route  from  the  capital  of  Manipur  to  Cachar  was 
easy  enough  in  comparison. — ED. 


200  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

Within  a  month  of  its  completion  the  old  path  was 
entirely  deserted. 

My  health  was  beginning  to  break  down  entirely. 
I  had  been  very  ill  during  and  immediately  after  the 
Naga  Hills  Expedition,  and  during  the  last  march  I 
was  laid  up  one  or  two  days.  My  wife  had  long 
been  a  sufferer,  but  she  did  not  like  to  leave  me,  and 
I  did  not  like  to  leave  Manipur  while  the  frontier 
was  disturbed  and  the  Kongal  case  unsettled.  How- 
ever, now  I  felt  that  we  both  must  have  change, 
and  our  children  also  were  of  an  age  to  go  home. 

On  my  return  from  looking  after  the  road,  fresh 
complications  awaited  me.  News  came  from  Ohattik 
of  the  Sumjok  (Thoungdoot)  authorities  having 
again  caused  dissension  and  joined  with  another 
village  in  firing  on  a  Manipuri  piquet.  This  had  led  to 
reprisals  on  the  part  of  the  Manipuris,  who  attacked 
and  drove  out  the  enemy.  All  this  was  done  with- 
out our  relations  with  Sumjok  being  anything  but 
strained,  the  act  of  hostility  being  unauthorised. 
The  ill-defined  nature  of  the  frontier  was  such,  that 
neither  party  could  be  said  to  be  in  the  right  or 
wrong.  The  Kuki,  Chussad,  and  other  frontier 
villages  took  advantage  of  the  state  of  things  to 
plunder  the  Tankhools,  and  the  latter  in  their  turn 
appealed  to  Manipur. 

I  felt  that,  until  something  was  done  to  set  things 
on  a  right  footing,  I  could  not  leave.  Sir  Steuart 
Bayley  was  about  this  time  appointed  to  Hyderabad, 
which  added  to  my  difficulties,  as  he  was  intimately 
acquainted  with  the  situation,  and  of  course  a  change 
in  the  administration  necessarily  means  delay.  The 
Burmese  authorities,  knowing  what  I  now  do,  were 


GUEKILLA  WAEFARE.  201 

always,  as  I  then  believed,  favourably  inclined  to  us ; 
the  ill-feeling  was  entirely  on  the  part  of  Sumjok, 
whose  Tsawbwa  had  influence  at  Maridalay,  and  was 
able  to  prevent  justice  being  done  in  the  case  in 
which  he  was  so  discreditably  concerned.  He  also 
took  advantage  of  this  influence  to  carry  on  the 
guerilla  warfare  he  did  through  the  Chussads,  who 
disliked  Manipur,  on  account  of  some  treacherous 
behaviour  on  her  part  in  former  years. 

As  the  spring  advanced,  of  course  the  danger 
of  hostilities  became  less.  Caesar  said,  "  Omnia  bella 
hieme  requiescunt"  The  reverse  holds  good  in  India, 
and  on  the  eastern  frontier  the  fiercest  tribes  keep 
quiet  in  the  rainy  season.* 

In  March,  I  heard  that  Mr.  (now  Sir  Charles) 
Elliott,  the  new  Chief  Commissioner,  was  about  to 
visit  Kohima,  where  he  wished  to  meet  me,  and  I  set 
off  on  my  way  there,  arriving  on  the  19th,  being  well 
received  all  along  the  road  by  the  people  of  the 
different  villages.  I  had  a  long  talk  with  the  Chief 
Commissioner  about  the  affairs  of  Manipur,  and  the 
necessity  for  a  survey  and  delimitation  of  the  boun- 
dary between  it  and  Burmah  during  the  ensuing 
cold  weather,  and  then  returned.  The  new  road  had 
been  opened  out  to  such  a  width,  except  here  and 
there — I  was  able  to  ride  the  whole  distance. 

The  weather  was  lovely,  and  the  rhododendrons 
near  Mao,  and  the  wild  pears,  azaleas,  and  many 
other  flowering  trees  along  my  route,  made  the  long 
journey  a  most  pleasant  one.  Let  me  say  here,  while 
on  the  subject  of  the  road,  that,  notwithstanding  all 
the  criticisms  passed  on  it  and  predictions  of  its 

*  All  wars  rest  in  winter. 


202  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

uselessness,  it  proved  of  immense,  nay,  incalculable 
value  during  the  Burmese  War  of  1885-86,  and  the 
sad  troubles  of  1891.  It  was  throughout  of  an  easy 
gradient,  never  exceeding  one  in  twenty,  and,  had  a 
bullock  train  been  established,  might  have  been  used 
from  an  early  date  for  conveying  produce  from 
Manipur  to  the  stations  of  Kohima. 

This  was  my  last  visit  to  Kohima,  a  place  fraught 
with  so  deep  an  interest  to  me,  and  so  many  pleasant 
and  painful  associations.  I  shall  always  regret  that 
the  site  chosen  by  myself  and  Major  Williamson  was 
not  adopted  for  the  new  cantonment,  which,  with  the 
larger  space  available,  would  have  admitted  of  a 
greater  development  than  is  possible  under  present 
circumstances.  Still  the  place  will  always  possess 
an  undying  interest  for  me,  filled  as  it  is  with  the 
memory  of  events  bearing  on  my  work  from  the 
early  triumphs  of  old  Grhumbeer  Singh,  and  my  pre- 
decessor, Lieut.  Gordon,  to  the  day  when  I  marched 
in  at  the  head  of  the  relieving  party,  and  heard  the 
fair-haired  English  child  told  by  her  mother  that  at 
last  she  could  have  water  to  drink ! 

On  my  return  to  Manipur,  I  intended  to  have 
started  for  England,  and  our  passages  were  taken  by 
a  steamer  leaving  in  April.  But  the  unsettled  state 
of  the  Burmese  frontier  forced  me  to  stay  till  the 
rains  had  set  in  in  the  hills.  During  this  spring 
we  had  a  visitor,  Mr.  Hume,  C.B.,  the  well-known 
ornithologist,  who  spent  three  months  in  studying 
the  birds  of  Manipur,  with  the  result,  I  believe,  that 
very  few  new  species  were  found. 

In  April,  we  had  a  little  excitement  to  vary  the 
monotony  of  life,  though  to  me  my  work  was  of  such 


TIGER  SHOOTING.  203 

never-ending  interest,  that  I  needed  nothing  of  the 
kind.  On  April  13th,  the  Maharajah  sent  to  tell  me 
that  a  tiger  had  been  surrounded,  and  asked  me  to 
go  out  and  help  to  shoot  it.  The  place  was  about 
fourteen  miles  from  the  capital,  and  we  started 
early  and  rode  off  to  a  spot  a  few  miles  from 
Thobal. 

I  took  my  sister  and  the  two  boys  with  me,  my 
wife  staying  with  the  baby.  The  tiger  had,  ac- 
cording to  Manipuri  custom,  been  first  enclosed  by  a 
long  net,  about  eight  feet  high,  and  outside  this  a 
bamboo  palisading  had  been  erected,  on  which  the 
platforms  were  built  for  the  spectators.  The  space 
enclosed  was  eighty  to  a  hundred  yards  in  diameter, 
and  contained  grass  and  scrub  jungle,  and  a  log  of 
wood  tied  to  strong  ropes  was  arranged,  so  that  it 
might  be  dragged  up  and  down  to  drive  the  tiger 
out  of  the  covert.  As  soon  as  we  were  all  in  our 
places  this  rope  was  vigorously  pulled,  with  the 
result  that  a  tigress,  followed  by  two  cubs,  sprang 
out  with  a  loud  roar.  The  Jubraj  was  present,  and 
took  command  of  the  proceedings,  courteously  asking 
me  from  time  to  time  what  I  wished  done.  After 
the  first  charge,  the  tiger  was  not  very  lively,  and 
this  being  the  case,  several  Manipuris,  contrary  to 
orders,  jumped  down  into  the  arena  with  long  and 
heavy  spears  in  the  right  hand,  and  a  small  forked 
stick  in  the  left.  With  the  latter  they  held  up  a 
portion  of  the  net,  which  had  been  allowed  to  fall  on 
the  ground  to  shield  their  faces,  if  necessary,  and 
with  the  right  hand  poised  the  spear,  shouting  to 
irritate  the  tiger,  whom  others  in  the  stockade  tried 
to  drive  out  by  throwing  stones. 


204  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

Roused  by  this,  the  infuriated  brute  charged  in 
earnest  at  one  of  the  men  on  foot,  the  latter  awaited 
her  with  the  utmost  coolness,  and,  as  she  approached, 
struck  her  with  the  spear ;  the  tiger,  however,  made 
good  her  charge,  but  the  net  stopped  her,  and  she 
rolled  over,  and  when  released,  she  retreated.  This 
was  repeated,  both  by  the  tigress  and  the  cubs,  and 
after  a  shot  or  two,  the  men  on  foot  attacked  them 
with  spears  and  finished  them  off. 

The  whole  scene  was  a  very  exciting  one  and  a 
very  fine  display  of  courage  and  coolness  on  the  part 
of  the  Manipuris. 

We  did  not  reach  home  till  10  P.M.,  but  the 
weather  was  splendid,  not  unbearably  hot  as  it 
would  have  been  in  India  so  late  in  the  season. 
The  day  was  a  memorable  one  to  the  boys,  and  I  well 
remember  the  astonishment  they  caused  when,  stop- 
ping at  Shillong  on  their  way  home,  some  one 
jokingly  said,  "  And  how  many  tigers  have  you 
shot  ?  "  The  boys  gravely  replied  "  Three." 

The  day  was  very  nearly  proving  the  last  to  some 
of  us.  The  two  boys  were  being  carried  in  a  litter, 
and  my  sister  and  I  riding  on  ponies.  On  leaving 
the  village  where  we  had  halted,  we  were  riding 
down  a  narrow  path  with  only  room  for  one  to  pass 
at  a  time,  when,  suddenly,  I  heard  a  shout  behind  me 
and  saw  an  elephant  following  me  at  a  great  pace, 
the  mahout  (driver)  vainly  endeavoured  to  stop  him, 
he  had  been  frightened  by  the  tiger's  dead  body  and 
was  quite  unmanageable.  I  called  to  my  sister,  who 
was  in  front,  to  ride  at  full  speed,  and  I  followed  as 
quickly  as  her  pony  would  allow.  It  was  a  race  for 
life,  as,  had  the  elephant  gained  on  us,  I,  at  least,  must 


NAKROW  ESCAPE.  205 

have  been  crushed.  Luckily,  the  mahout  recovered 
his  control,  and  managed  to  slacken  the  pace. 

On  our  way  home,  we  passed  bushes  of  wild  roses 
twenty  feet  in  diameter  and  quite  impenetrable. 

Finally,  the  tiger  was  taken  to  the  Maharajah,  who 
had  not  been  well  enough  to  come,  and,  next  morning, 
was  brought  to  us  and  skinned. 

I  have  already  alluded  to  the  turbulent  character 
of  Kotwal  Koireng,  the  Maharajah's  fourth  son,  and 
now,  again,  I  was  to  have  fresh  evidence  of  it.  Early 
in  May,  I  heard  of  his  having  three  men  so  severely 
beaten  that  one  had  died,  and  two  were  dangerously 
ill.  On  investigation,  I  found  that  the  men  had  been 
tied  up  and  beaten  on  the  back,  it  was  said,  for  two 
hours  and  slapped  on  the  face  at  the  same  time.  I 
questioned  the  ministers,  and  practically  there  was  no 
defence,  and,  as  I  heard  that  the  Maharajah  was 
enquiring  into  the  matter,  I  said  no  more,  beyond  a 
warning  that  a  case  of  murder  must  not  be  passed 
over. 

The  Maharajah  handed  over  the  case  to  the  Cherap 
Court*  for  trial,  and,  as  might  be  expected,  they  ac- 
quitted Kotwal  of  the  charge  of  causing  death  and 
found  him  guilty  of  injuring  the  other  two.  The 
Maharajah  sentenced  him  to  banishment  for  a  year  to 
the  island  of  Thanga,  in  the  Logtak  Lake,  and  tem- 
porary degradation  of  caste.  As  a  sentence  of  two 
years'  imprisonment  had  been  passed  some  years 
previously  in  our  own  territory,  for  death  caused 
under  similar  circumstances,  the  sentence  was  not  so 
lenient  as  might  have  been  expected.  I  reported 
the  matter  to  the  Government  of  India,  expressing 

*  Chief  Court. 


206  MY   EXPEEIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

my  approval  of  the  sentence,  under  the  circumstances, 
and  my  verdict  was  ratified.  I  intimated  to  the 
Durbar  that,  should  such  a  thing  occur  again,  I  should 
insist  on  his  permanent  banishment  from  Manipur. 

This  I  was  prepared  to  carry  out  myself  if  neces- 
sary. I  should  have  liked  on  this  occasion  to  have 
procured  his  banishment,  but,  in  dealing  with  Native 
States  that  in  these  matters  are  practically  indepedent, 
it  is  not  always  well  to  press  matters  too  far.  In  old 
days,  under  our  early  political  agents,  such  an  offence 
would  have  passed  unnoticed.  It  was  a  point  gained 
to  have  the  case  investigated  and  adjudicated  on  by 
the  Maharajah,  and  anything  approaching  to  an 
adequate  sentence  inflicted.  Since  the  troubles  in 
Manipur,  I  have  seen  it  stated  that  the  sentence  was 
a  nominal  one ;  that  it  certainly  was  not,  the  prince 
was  banished  to  Thanga,  and  if  he  surreptitiously 
appeared  at  the  capital,  he  did  not  appear  in  public, 
and  when  I  left  Manipur  on  long  leave,  early  in  1882, 
was  still  in  banishment. 

On  May  31st,  we  all  left  Manipur  on  our  way  to 
England,  and  my  children  bade  adieu  to  a  most 
happy  home.  It  was  a  sad  parting  for  most  of  us, 
and  though  my  wife's  health  and  mine  urgently  re- 
quired change,  we  left  the  valley  with  regret,  and 
felt  deep  sorrow  as  we  took  our  last  look  of  it  from 
the  adjacent  range  of  hills.  We  reached  Cachar  on 
June  8th,  having  halted  as  much  as  possible  on  high 
ground.  The  rivers  were  in  flood,  and  sometimes  there 
was  a  little  difficulty  in  crossing.  We  left  for  Shil- 
long  on  June  9th,  and  arrived  there  on  the  15th, 
leaving  again  on  the  21st  for  Bombay,  from  which, 
on  July  5th,  we  sailed  for  England. 


RETURN   TO  ENGLAND.  207 

While  at  Shillong  we  were  the  guests  of  the  Chief 
Commissioner,  so  that  I  had  an  ample  opportunity  of 
talking  over  affairs  with  him,  and  it  was  finally 
settled  that  I  was  to  take  Shillong  on  my  way  back, 
and  see  Mr.  Elliott  before  leaving,  to  settle  the  knotty 
question  of  the  boundary  between  Manipur  and 
Burmah  on  the  spot,  in  accordance  with  orders 
lately  received  from  the  Government  of  India. 


208  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Return  to  Manipur — Revolution  in  my  absence — Arrangements  for 
boundary — Survey  and  settlement — Start  for  Kongal— Burmah  will 
not  act — We  settle  boundary — Report  to  Government — Return  to 
England. 

I  "WAS  really  not  fit  to  undertake  any  work  in  India 
till  my  health,  was  re-established,  but  could  not  bear 
to  leave  the  interests  of  Manipur  in  other  hands  until 
the  boundary  was  settled.  I  felt  that  I  alone  had 
the  threads  of  the  whole  affair  in  my  hands,  and  that 
I  could  not  honourably  leave  my  post  till  I  had  seen 
Manipur  out  of  the  difficulty.  Thus  it  came  that 
I  left  England  again  on  September  7th,  and  my 
devoted  wife,  far  less  fit  than  I  was  for  the  trials  of 
the  long  journey,  accompanied  me,  as  she  would  not 
leave  me  alone. 

We  reached  Shillong  on  October  18th,  1881,  and, 
after  arranging  all  matters  connected  with  the 
boundary  settlement  with  the  Chief  Commissioner, 
started  for  Cachar,  and  reached  that  place  on 
October  25th,  leaving  again  for  Manipur  next  day, 
and  marching  to  Jeree  Ghat,  where  we  were  met  by 
Thangal  Major.  We  made  the  usual  marches,  and 
reached  Manipur  on  November  4th,  the  Jubraj 
coming  out  with  a  large  retinue  to  meet  me  .at 
Phoiching,  eight  miles  from  the  capital. 

While    I   was   away  in   the   month  of  June,  an 


THE  BOUNDARY  SURVEY.  209 

attempt  at  a  revolution  had  occurred,  the  standard  of 
revolt  having-  been  raised  by  a  man  named  Eerengha, 
an  unknown  individual,  but  claiming1  to  be  of  Royal 
lineage  ;  such  revolutions  were  of  common  occurrence 
in  former  days.  In  Colonel  McCulloch's  time  there 
were  eighteen.  In  this  case  there  was  no  result, 
except  that  Eerengha  and  seventeen  followers  were 
captured  and  executed.  The  treatment  was  un- 
doubtedly severe,  but  not  necessarily  too  much  so,  as 
too  great  leniency  might  have  led  to  a  repetition,  and 
much  consequent  suffering  and  bloodshed. 

I  had  an  interview  with  the  Maharajah,  who  was 
ill  when  I  arrived,  as  soon  as  he  was  well  enough; 
and  set  to  work  to  make  preparations  for  our  march 
to  the  Burmese  frontier.  I  intimated  my  desire  to 
the  Maharajah  that  Bularam  Singh,  and  not  Thangal 
Major,  should  accompany  me,  as  I  wished  the  last  to 
stay  at  the  capital,  and  also  not  to  let  him  appear  to 
be  absolutely  indispensable. 

I  had  been  appointed  Commissioner  for  settling 
the  boundary  with  plenipotentiary  powers,  and 
Mr.  R.  Phayre,,  C.S,,  who  was  in  the  Burmese 
commission,  and  a  good  Burmese  scholar,  was  ap- 
pointed as  my  assistant.  There  was  also  a  survey 
party  under  my  old  friend  Colonel  Badgley,  and 
Mr.  Ogle,  while  Lieutenant  (now  Major,  D.S.O.)  Dun,* 
came  on  behalf  of  the  Intelligence  Department.  Mr. 
Oldham  represented  the  Geological  Survey.  Dr. 
Watt  was  naturalist  and  medical  officer,  while  Captain 
Angelo,  with  two  hundred  men  of  the  12th  Khelat-i- 
G-hilzie  Regiment,  commanded  my  escort.  Mr.  Phayre 
arrived  first,  and  I  sent  him  off  to  Tamu  to  try  and 

*  Major  Edward  Dun  died  on  the  5th  of  June,  1895. — En. 

P 


210  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

smooth  ove*  matters  with  the  Burmese  authorities 
-there.  Then  my  old  friend  Dun  came,  soon  followed 
by  Dr.  Watt,  then  the  survey  party  arrived,  and 
Captain  Angelo  with  my  escort,  and  last  of  all  Mr. 
Oldhatti.  Never  had  Manipur  seen  so  many  Euro- 
pean officers.  Some  time  was  required  for  necessary 
triangulations  before  we  could  start. 

On  November  30th,  just  as  the  sun  was  rising, 
Thangal  Major  came  to  see  me,  and  told  me  that  the 
Maharajah  was  very  ill  and  suffering  great  pain. 
While  talking,  two  guns  were  fired  from  the  palace, 
when  the  old  man  turned  pale,  evidently  thinking 
that  the  Maharajah  was  dead.  A  few  minutes  after 
a  messenger  came  to  inform  us  that  the  guns  merely 
announced  a  domestic  event,  but  Thangal  Major  was 
nervous  and  soon  took  leave,  running  away  to  the 
palace  at  a  pace  that  did  credit  to  his  sixty-four 
years. 

On  December  1st,  Mr.  Phayre  returned  from  Tamu, 
having  had  a  friendly  but  unsatisfactory  interview 
"with  the  Phoongyee.  The  Pagan  Woon  had  been 
•expected  but  did  not  arrive,  and  the  Phoongyee  had 
no  authority  to  act. 

Before  starting,  the  Maharajah  visited  me  in  state, 
and  I  introduced  all  the  officers  of  the  party  to  him. 
He  looked  pale  and  haggard  after  his  illness,  but 
seemed  in  good  spirits.  At  last,  on  December  16th, 
we  made  a  move  and  marched  to  Thobal-Yaira-pok, 
and  on  the  following  day  to  Ingorok,  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills.  My  wife  accompanied  us,  as  I  was  ex- 
ceedingly anxious  to  show  the  Burmese  my  peaceful 
intentions,  and  felt  sure  that  the  presence  of  a  lady 
would  be  a  better  proof  of  my  bma  fides  than  any 


BURMESE  ILL-WILL.  211 

other  I  could  offer.  I  heard  before  leaving  the 
frontier,  that  had  it  not  teen  for  this,  a  rupture 
would  have  been  certain  while  our  relations  were  in 
a  state  of  great  tension,  but  the  fact  of  my  wife  being 
there,  convinced  the  authorities  in  the  Kubo  valley, 
that  I  had  no  idea  of  hostile  action. 

I  have  already  described  the  route  to  Kongal,  and 
my  escort  were  much  tried  by  the  severity  of  the 
marches  over  sucli  a  rough  country.  The  men  had 
only  lately  returned  from  Afghanistan,  and  were  in 
fine  condition,  but  they  said  that  the  country  between 
Kandahar  and  Kabul,  was  nothing  to  that  between 
Ingorok  and  Kongal  Tannah.  Every  day  many  men 
were  footsore,  and  reached  camp,  hours  after  me  and 
my  Manipuris.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  for  some 
reason  or  other  the  Eastern  hills  and  jungles  are  far 
more  trying  than  those  of  the  North- West  frontier. 

However,  at  last  we  arrived  safely  at  Kongal,  and 
though  the  Burmese  and  Sumjok  officials,  to  whom  I 
had  written  polite  letters  asking  them  to  meet  me, 
did  not  turn  up,  the  survey  work  went  on  merrily. 

On  the-  18th,  Colonel  Badgley,  who  had  come  by 
an  independent  route  through  the  hills,  joined  my 
camp,  and  after  a  conference  we  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  at  any  rate  I  was  right  in  claiming  the 
country  occupied  by  the  Chussads  and  Choomyangs, 
as  Manipuri  territory.  This  was  very  satisfactory, 
as  the  day  before  I  had  been  much  annoyed  by  the 
Sumjok  authorities  having  prevented  some  of  the 
former  fears  coming  to  pay  their  respects  to  me. 
The  attitude  of  the  Sumjok  people  Was  passively 
hostile,  they  refused  to  join  in  making  out  the 
boundary,  and  threw  every  obstacle  in  the  way  of 

p  2 


MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

my  doing  so,  but  they  were  evidently  not  inclined  to 
be  the  first  to  shed  blood. 

On  December  19th,  I  sent  out  two  unarmed 
parties  to  clear  some  ground  for  survey  marks,  but 
one  of  them  was  stopped  by  an  armed  party  of 
Sumjok  men.  On  hearing  this  the  next  day  I 
ordered  the  Manipuri  subadar  in  charge,  to  halt 
where  he  was,  and  I  wrote  to  the  Pagan  Woon  to 
complain,  and  to  ask  him  to  order  the  Tsawbwaa  to 
interfere.  On  the  21st,  I  heard  that  another  party 
had  been  stopped,  and  I  asked  with  regard  to  them 
as  I  had  done  with  the  first.  That  afternoon  I 
received  a  civil  letter  from  the  Pagan  Woon  brought 
by  a  Bo  (captain),  saying  that  he  had  orders  to 
conduct  negotiations  at  Tamu,  and  was  not  authorised 
to  come  to  Kongal  Tannah.  I  wrote  a  conciliatory 
rqply  urging  him  to  visit  us. 

On  the  22nd  of  December,  I  henrd  that  my  two 
parties  had  been  forcibly  driven  out  by  large  bodies 
of  armed  men.  I  therefore  called  in  some  Manipuri 
detachments  lest  there  should  be  a  collision,  as 
the  atmosphere  was  getting  very  warlike,  and  only 
required  a  spark  to  produce  a  conflagration.  All 
the  population  of  the  Kubo  valley  were  said  to  be 
arming.  The  Burmese  we  talked  to  frankly  ad- 
mitted if  there  was  a  rupture  the  fault  would  lie 
with  Mandalay,  for  not  sending  a  proper  repre- 
sentative to  meet  me,  in  accordance  with  the  re- 
quest of  the  Government  of  India,  conveyed  months 
before. 

Certainly  one  false  move  on  our  part  would  have 
provoked  a  rupture.  However,  everything  comes 
to  him  who  waits.  We  made  every  effort  to  keep 


A  CHRISTMAS  PAETY.  213 

the  peace,  and  while  the  authorities  were  opposing 
us  we  kept  up  a  friendly  intercourse  with  all  the 
individual  Burmese  and  Shans  near  us,  and  I  carried 
on  negotiation  with  the  Kukis.  The  Chussads  were 
inclined  to  be  friendly,  but  the  Choomyangs  were 
still  under  the  influence  of  Sumjok.  Fortunately 
Colonel  Badgley  found  that  he  could  dispense  with 
the  two  points  from  whence  our  men  had  been 
driven,  and  we  discovered  a  little  stream  that  formed 
an  admirable  boundary  line  entirely  in  accordance 
with  the  terms  laid  down  in  Pemberton's  definition 
of  the  boundary. 

Further  north,  I  knew  the  country  well  myself, 
and  we  had  now  no  difficulty  in  laying  down  a 
definite  boundary  line  about  which  there  could  be 
no  doubt.  This  was  done,  and  pillars  were  erected, 
and  the  line  marked  on  the  map.  Manipur  might, 
according  to  Pemberton's  statement,  have  claimed  a 
good  deal  of  territory  occupied  by  Burmese  subjects, 
but  this  I  refused  to  allow,  as  it  would  have  been 
interfering  with  the  "  status  quo"  which  I  desired  to 
preserve.  I  called  all  the  Sumjok  people  I  could  to 
witness  what  I  had  done,  and  they  all  agreed  that 
what  I  said  was  fair,  and  that  the  fault,  if  any,  lay 
with  the  Burmese  authorities,  for  not  taking  part  in 
the  arrangement.  This  was  willing  testimony,  as 
none  of  the  people  need  have  come  near  me.  Even 
Tamoo,  the  chief  of  Old  Sumjok,  or  Taap,  as  the 
Manipuris  call  it,  visited  me,  and  expressed  his 
satisfaction  with  what  had  been  done.  On  Christmas 
Day,  1881,  my  wife  and  I  had  a  party  of  seven  at 
our  table,  an  unprecedented  sight,  and  probably  the 
last  time  that  nine  Europeans  will  ever  assemble  at 


214  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

Korigal  Tannab. "  My  friend  Dun,  who  had  been 
badly  wounded  by  a  pangee  (bamboo  stake)  had  to 
be  carried  in. 

Before  leaving  Kongal,  I  went  round  all  the 
pillars  that  had  been  erected,  and  saw  that  they 
were  intact.  Mr.  Ogle's  party  went  off  to  the  north, 
escorted  through  the  village  of  Choomyang  by  Lieu- 
tenant Dun.  These  people  being  under  the  influence 
of  Sum  jolt,  it  was  a  very  delicate  business  getting 
through  their  village  without  a  rupture.  This  affair 
Dun  managed  with  great  tact.  We  left  Kongal  on 
our  homeward  journey  on  the  6th  of  January,  but 
previous  to  starting  I  brought  my  long-standing 
negotiations  with  the  Chussads  to  a  successful  con- 
clusion. They  agreed  to  negotiate  with  me  but  not 
with  the  Manipuris,  and  to  abide  by  my  decision 
entirely. 

I  sent  a  message  to  the  Choomyangs  and  other 
Kukis  who  had  given  trouble,  telling  them  that  they 
were  undoubtedly  within  Manipur,  and  that  I  gave 
.them  forty- two  days  in  which  to  submit,  or  clear 
,out,  adding,  that  if  at  the  end  of  that  time  they  gave 
any  trouble,  they  would  be  treated  as  rebels  and 
attacked  without  more  ceremony.  Eventually  they 
submitted  and  became  peaceful  subjects  of  Manipur. 
As  to  the  great  question — that  of  the  boundary — I 
may  here  add  that  it  received  the  sanction  of  the 
Government  of  India,  and  proved  a  thorough  success. 
Though  not  noticing  it  officially,  the  Burmese  prac- 
tically acknowledged  it,  and  it  remained  intact,  till 
the  Kubo  valley  became  a  British  possession  in 
December  1885. 

My  wife  and  I  reached  Manipur  on  the  9th  of 


SETTLEMENT.  ___  215 

January,  having  made  the  last  two  marches  in  one, 
and  next  day  were  joined  by  Mr.  Phayre,  who  had 
come,  via  Tamil.  He  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  that 
the  Pagan  Woon  was  greatly  disappointed  at  having 
had  no  authority  from  Mandalay  to  negotiate  with 
me,  and  described  him  as  a  sensible  well-disposed 
man. 

I  had  now  to  write  my  report  of  my  mission,  and 
having  finished  this,  and  handed  over  charge  to  my 
successor,  I  left  Manipur -with  my  wife  c-n  the  29th 
of  January,  reaching  Cachar,  where  we  met  Mr. 
Elliott,  the  Chief  Commissioner,  pn  5th  of  February. 
We  left  that  evening  by  boat,  and  travelling  with 
the  utmost  speed  possible,  with  such  means  as  we 
possessed,  reached  Naraingunge,  near  Dacca,  and 
after  waiting  two  days  for  a  steamer  went  to  Cal- 
cutta, vid  Goalundo,  and  thence  to  Bombay  and 
England,  where  we  arrived  in  March,  both  ©f  us 
very  much  in  need  of  a  prolonged  rest. 


216  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUH. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Return  to  India — Visit  Shillong — Manipnr  again — Cordial  reception — 
Trouble  with  Thangal  Major — New  arts  introduced. 

I  LEFT  for  India  again  in  August  1884.  I  had 
'had  but  a  sad  period  of  sick  leave,  as  my  wife  never 
Tecovered  from  her  fatigue  and  illness,  and  died  in 
1883.  I  was  obliged  to  prolong  my  leave  to  make 
arrangements  for  my  children. 

I  took  over  charge  of  the  Manipur  Agency  on  the 
1st  October,  1884,  at  Shillong,  and  stayed  a  few 
days  with  the  Chief  Commissioner.  I  left  again  on 
8th  October  and  reached  Cachar  on  the  15th,  having 
made  every  effort  to  push  on,  and  given  my  boat- 
men double  pay  for  doing  so.  On  my  way  to 
Cachar,  I  met  people  who  complained  to  me  of  the 
way  they  had  been  treated  in  Manipur  while  I  was 
away,  and  of  the  arrogance  displayed  by  old  Thangal 
Major,  who,  during  my  absence,  had  become  almost 
despotic.  Thangal  was  an  excellent  man  when  kept 
well  in  hand,  but  he  required  to  be  managed  with 
great  firmness.  During  the  Maharajah's  increasing 
illness,  a  good  opportunity  was  given  to  a  strong- 
man to  come  to  the  front,  and  Thangal  took  ad- 
vantage of  it.  On  20th  October,  I  reached  Jeereo 
Ghat,  and  was  received  with  great  effusion  by  the 
Minister  Bularam  Singh.  At  Kala  Naga  on  the 
22nd,  I  heard  definite  complaints  against  Thangal,  a 


COMPLAINTS.  217 

sure  proof  that  something  very  bad  was  going  on, 
as  no  one  would  have  ventured  to  complain  without 
grave  provocation.  Bularam  Singh  was  Thangal's 
rival,  so  I  asked  him  nothing,  knowing  well  that  I 
should  hear  as  much  as  I  wanted  at  Manipur.  At 
Noongba,  next  day,  there  were  fresh  complaints,  the 
charge  being,  that  men  told  off  to  work  on  the  roads 
were  being  used  by  Thangal  to  carry  merchandize 
for  himself. 

At  Leelanong,  overlooking  the  beautiful  Kowpoom 
valley,  some  Nagas  (Koupooees)  brought  me  a  man 
of  their  tribe  who  had  been  carried  off  as  a  boy  by 
the  Lushais,  and  only  lately  redeemed.  He  was  still 
in  Lushai  costume,  and  though  shorter  and  fairer,  he 
greatly  resembled  one  of  that  tribe,  showing  what  an 
influence  dress  has. 

On  28th  October,  I  arrived  at  Bissenpore,  in- 
tending to  march  to  the  capital  next  day,  but  was 
delayed  by  an  unpleasant  circumstance.  It  was,  as 
already  mentioned,  the  custom  for  the  Maharajah  to 
meet  me  at  the  entrance  to  the  capital  on  my  arrival, 
but  knowing  that  he  was  not  well,  I  asked  the 
minister  to  write  and  say  that  I  did  not  expect  him 
to  do  so,  but  I  would  invite  the  Jubraj  to  meet  me 
at  Phoiching,  half-way  between  the  capital  and 
Bissenpore  instead.  I  also  wrote  the  same  to  my 
head  clerk,  Baboo  Rusni  Lall  Coondoo,  asking  him 
to  notify  my  wishes  to  the  Durbar,  as  I  felt  it 
extremely  likely  that  were  Bularam  Singh  alone  to 
write,  old  Thangal  might  intrigue  and  throw 
obstacles  in  the  way  to  discredit  him  with  me 
arid  the  Durbar.  The  minister's  letters  were  not 
answered,  but  1  heard  from  Rusni  Lall  Coondoo, 


218  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

tli at  he  asked  to  see  the  Jubraj  who  had  already 
heard  from  Bularam  Singh,  but  he  was  told  that  he 
was  ill.  After  a  great  deal  of  delay  an  interview 
was  accorded,  and  though  he  appeared  quite  well, 
the  Jubraj  said  he  was  too  ill  to  come,  but  would 
send  a  younger  brother.  Feeling  sure  that  there 
was  nothing  to  prevent  his  coming,  I  sent  a  message 
of  sympathy,  also  to  say,  that  I  would  wait  at  Bissen- 
pore  till  he  recovered.  I  knew  perfectly  well  that 
all  this  story  had  emanated  from  Thangal  Major's 
brain,  and  that  I  was  to  be  subjected  to  incon- 
venience and  want  of  courtesy,  in  order  to  snub  his 
colleague,  He  had  suffered  from  a  sore  foot  which 
prevented  his  coming  to  Jeeree  Ghat  to  meet  me  and 
lie  could  not  forgive  Bularam  Singh  for  having  taken 
his  place.  The  Jubraj  ought  to  have  known  better, 
but  among  natives  any  slight  offered  to  a  superior  is 
an  enhancement  to  one's  own  dignity,  so  from  this 
point  of  view  he  would  gain  in  his  own  estimation. 

On  the  morning  of  October  30th,  as  soon  as  I  was 
dressed,  I  saw  Tliangal  Major  outside  my  hut.  I 
heard  afterwards  that,  directly  my  decision  had  been 
communicated  to  the  Durbar,  he  had  volunteered  to 
come  out,  and  as  he  said,  bring  me  in.  When  we 
had  had  a  little  friendly  conversation,  he  with  his 
usual  bluntness,  which  I  did  not  object  to,  asked  rne 
to  go  in,  saying  that  the  Wankai  Rakpa*  would 
meet  me,  the  Jubraj  being  ill.  I  firmly  declined, 
saying  that  I  would  wait  till  he  recovered.  He  then 
assured  me  that  the  real  cause  was  the  critical  state 
of  the  Jubraj's  wife.  I  doubted  the  truth,  but  a 
lady  being  in  the  case,  courtesy  and  good  feeling 

*  Knowu  as  Regent  during  the  recent  troubles. 


RETURN  TO  MAN1PUR.    -_  ...  219 

demanded  that  I  should  accept  the  statement  as  an 
excuse,  and  I  therefore  said  I  would  leave,  if  the 
Wankai  Rakpa  and  another  prince  met  me  on  behalf 
of  the  Jubraj.  This  was  at  once  agreed  to,  and  I 
therefore  marched  off,  being  met  in  great  state  by 
the  two  princes,  who  rode  by  rny  side  all  the  way. 
As  I  neared  the  capital,  a  vast  crowd  came  out  to 
meet  me,  the  numbers  increasing  at  every  step,  and 
I  was  received  with  every  demonstration  of  respect 
and  sympathy,  many  of  those  who  knew  my  wife 
showing  a  delicacy  of  feeling  that  greatly  moved  me. 
Old  Thangal,  when  I  met  him,  spoke  very  kindly  on 
the  subject,  saying,  "It  is  sad  to  see  you  return  alone, 
and  we  know  what  it  must  be  to  you."  Numberless 
were  the  enquiries  by  name  after  all  the  children. 
At  last  I  reached  the  Residency,  where  my  old 
attendants  were  ready  to  do  all  they  could  for  me. 
It  was  something  like  home,  old  books,  furniture, 
children's  toys,  still  here  and  there,  and  in  a  corner 
of  the  verandah  my  little  girl's  litter,  in  which  she 
was  carried  out  morning  and  evening,  but  the  faces 
that  make  home  were  away. 

I  mention  the  foregoing  incident  regarding  the 
Jubraj,  as  it  is  a  good  example  of  the  small  diffi- 
culties connected  with  etiquette,  that  one  has  to 
contend  with  in  a  place  like  Manipur.  The  question 
is  far  more  important  than  it  seems.  Any  relaxation 
in  a  trifling  matter  like  this,  seems  to  Asiatics  a  sign 
that  you  are  disposed  to  relax  your  vigilance  in 
graver  questions.  Indeed,  to  a  native  chief,  etiquette 
itself  is  a  very  grave  matter,  arid  many  terrible 
quarrels  have  arisen  from  it.  I  well  remember  a 
slight  being  offered  to  the  Viceroy,  because  a  Rajah 


220  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

fancied  he  had  not  received  all  the  honours  due 
to  him. 

I  found  a  crop  of  small  difficulties  awaiting  me  in 
Manipur,  the  Durbar,  and  especially  old  Thangal,  had 
got  out  of  hand,  and  had  to  be  pulled  up  a  little. 
There  were  numberless  complaints  from  British 
subjects  of  petty  oppression  which  had  to  be  listened 
to,  and  I  felt  it  rather  hard  having  this  unpleasant 
duty  to  perform  just  after  my  return ;  but  it  was 
duty,  and  had  to  be  done,  and  by  dint  of  firmness* 
combined  with  courtesy,  I  soon  set  things  right,  but 
Thangal  Major  rather  resented  the  steady  pressure 
which  I  found  it  necessary  to  apply. 

Before  leaving  Manipur  in  1881,  I  had  sent  off 
some  Manipuris  to  Cawnpore  to  learn  carpet  making 
and  leather  work.  When  I  returned,  these  men  had 
long  been  making  use  of  their  knowledge  in  Manipur, 
and  I  found  that  first-rate  cotton  carpets  and  boots, 
shoes  and  saddles  of  English  patterns,  had  been 
manufactured  for  the  Maharajah,  the  workmanship 
being  in  all  cases  creditable,  and  in  that  of  the 
carpets  most  excellent. 

I  tried  to  send  men  to  Bombay  to  learn  to  make 
art  pottery,  and  the  Maharajah  was  at  one  time 
anxious  about  it,  but  the  correspondence  with  the 
School  of  Art  was  conducted  in  so  leisurely  a 
manner  on  their  side,  extending  over  nearly  a  year, 
that  he  got  tired  of  it,  and  declined  to  send  the  men. 
I  had  a  little  pottery  made  in  Manipur,  which  I 
brought  home  with  me,  the  only  existing  specimens 
of  an  art  that  died  out  in  its  infancy. 

I  had  several  pieces  of  silver  work  made  to  try 
the  mettle  of  the  Manipuri  silversmiths,  one  bowl,  a 


MANIPUR  AKTISTS.  221 

most  perfect  copy  of  a  Burmese  bowl  with  figures  on 
it  in  high  relief,  was  beautifully  executed,  and  still 
excites  the  admiration  of  all  who  see  it. 

The  Mussulman  population  of  Manipur,  was  de- 
scended from  early  immigrants  from  India,  Sylhet, 
and  Cachar,  who  had  married  Manipuri  wives;  they 
numbered  about  5000,  and  were  rather  kept  under 
by  the  Durbar,  but  to  nothing  like  the  same  extent 
that  Hindoos  would  have  been  under  a  Mussulman 
Government.  Formerly,  they  had  to  prostrate  them- 
selves before  the  Bajah  like  other  subjects,  but  they 
having  represented  that  this  was  against  their 
religion,  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh  excused  them  from 
doing  it,  allowing  a  simple  salaam  instead.  They, 
(probably  owing  to  their  dependent  position),  were 
not  such  an  ill-mannered  and  disagreeable  set  as 
their  co-religionists  of  Cachar,  and  were  generally 
quiet  and  inoffensive.  The  headman  of  the  sect 
received  the  title  of  Nawab  from  the  Rajah.  These 
men  had  a  grievance  to  bring  forward  when  I 
returned,  and  I  procured  them  some  redress. 

I  visited  the  Maharajah  in  due  course,  and  found 
him  better  than  I  expected,  and  I  took  an  early 
opportunity  of  announcing  my  return  to  the  Burmese 
authorities  in  the  Ktibo  valley,  receiving  civil  letters 
in  return.  Unfortunately,  I  found  that  great  sore- 
ness still  prevailed  in  Manipur  on  account  of  the 
non-settlement  of  the  Kongal  case,  and  I  was  con- 
stantly on  the  alert  lest  evil  results  should  follow,  as 
I  always  suspected  old  Thangal  of  a  desire  to  make 
reprisals. 

When  I  had  a  day  to  spare,  I  went  to  see  my 
experimental  garden  arid  fir  wood,  at  Kang-joop- 


222  MY    EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

kool,  finding  everything  in  a  flourishing  state,  the 
wood  a  tangled  thicket,  with  foxgloves  and  other 
English  flowers  growing  in  wild  profusion.  One 
morning  when  walking  out,  I  saw  some  prisoners 
going  to  work,  and  as  they  passed  me,  one  or  two 
looked  as  if  they  would  like  to  speak.  I  accordingly 
passed  by  them  again  to  give  them  an  opportunity, 
when  a  man  ran  up  and  complained  that  he 
was  imprisoned  without  any  definite  period  being 
assigned,  a  common  practice  in  Manipur.  Another 
man,  whom  he  called  as  a  witness,  spoke  good  Hin- 
doostani,  and  on  my  enquiring  where  he  learned  it, 
he  said  he  was  a  Manipuri  from  Sylhet.  I  sent  for 
him  directly  I  got  home,  and  he  came  with  Thangal 
Major,  and,  as  he  was  a  British  subject,  and  the 
Durbar  had  no  right  to  imprison  him,  I  sent  for  a 
smith,  and  had  his  irons  struck  off  in  my  presence. 
I  spoke  quietly,  but  firmly  to  the  Minister,  but 
showed  him  plainly  that  I  would  not  stand  having 
British  subjects  imprisoned  except  by  my  .orders. 
The  man's  offence  was  not  paying  a  debt  for  which 
he  was  security,  and  the  punishment  was  just, 
according  to  the  laws  of  Manipur,  and  would  have 
been  in  England  before  1861. 


(     223     ) 


CHAPTER  XXY. 

A  friend  in  need — Tour  round  the  valley — Meet  the  Chief  Commissioner — 
March  to  Cachar — Tour  through  the  Tankhool  country — Metomie — 
Saramettie  —  Somrah  —  Terrace  cultivators  —  A  dislocation  —  Old 
quarters  at  Kongal  Tannah — Return  to  the  valley — A  sad  parting. 

ON  the  26th  of  November,  my  old  friend  Lieutenant 
Dun  (now  Major  Dun,  D.S.O.),  joined  me.  Knowing 
I  wanted  a  friend  to  cheer  me  in  my  loneliness,  he 
had  very  kindly  accepted  the  permission  of  his  de- 
partment to  accompany  me  on  a  tour  through  the 
hills  to  the  north-east  of  Manipur.  No  European 
was  more  deservedly  popular  of  late  years  among  all 
classes  in  Manipur,  where  he  had  visiteJ  me  once  or 
twice  before.  I  felt  his  kindness  deeply,  he  was 
always  a  charming,  genial  and  highly  intellectual 
companion,  and  many  a  long  and  tiring  march  was 
cheered  by  his  society.  On  the  2nd  of  December, 
we  started  on  a  preliminary  tour  round  the  west  arid 
south  of  the  valley,  visiting  the  Logtak  lake,  with  its 
floating  islands,  its  island-hill  of  Thanga,  with  its 
orange  gardens  and  place  of  exile,  and  large  fishing 
establishment.  When  I  first  arrived  in  Manipur, 
oranges  were  a  rarity.  Now,  owing  to  the  enter- 
prise of  the  Maharajah  in  planting  trees,  they  were 
fairly  common,  and  here  we  were  able  to  gather 
them.  The  orange  tree  is  capricious  and  all  soils 


224:  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

will  not  suit  it,  and  up  to  the  fifth  or  sixth  year  it  is 
always  liable  to  be  attacked  by  a  grub  that  kills  it, 
after  that  it  becomes  hardier.  I  never  was  very 
successful  with  orange  trees,  though  I  took  great 
pains  with  them.  From  the  Logtak  lake,  we 
marched  to  a  place  called  Thonglel,  in  the  hills, 
where  we  were  met  by  all  the  representatives  of  the 
Kukis  in  that  Direction,  thence  to  a  place  called 
Koombee,  a  settlement  of  Loees,  low-caste  Manipuris. 
Afterwards  we  marched  to  Chairel  on  the  main  river 
into  which  all  the  rivers  of  Manipur  flow  before  it 
enters  the  hills  to  the  south  of  the  valley.  After 
visiting  Shoogoonoo,  a  frontier  post,  we  returned  to 
the  capital,  on  December  llth,  after  a  very  pleasant 
tour  of  one  hundred  and  forty-six  miles  in  nine 
marching  days. 

We  next  marched  up  the  road  to  the  Naga  Hills, 
meeting  the  Chief  Commissioner,  Mr.  Elliott,  at 
Mao,  and  returning  with  him  to  Manipur,  where  the 
usual  visits  were  exchanged.  After  a  day  or  two's 
halt,  the  Chief  Commissioner  set  out  for  Cachar  and  I 
accompanied  him  to  the  frontier  at  Jeeree  Grhat, 
returning  to  Manipur  by  forced  marches.  The 
bridge  over  the  Mukker  had  been  broken  by  a  fallen 
tree,  but  the  river,  so  formidable  in  the  rains,  was 
easily  fordable.  A  short  time  before  reaching  the 
summit  of  Kala  Naga,  a  pretty  little  incident 
occurred,  which  I  have  never  forgotten.  Some  of 
my  coolies  were  toiling  up  the  steep  ascent  with 
their  loads,  when  two  young  Kukis  met  us  with 
smiling  faces  as  if  something  had  given  them  great 
pleasure.  They  immediately  made  two  of  the  men 
with  me  put  down  their  loads,  and  took  them  up 


A  KIND   ACT.  225 

themselves  to  relieve  the  wearied  ones.  On  my 
enquiry  who  they  were,  they  said  they  were  friends 
of  my  coolies  and  had  come  to  help  them.  It  was 
one  of  the  prettiest  sights  I  ever  saw,  the  pleasure  the 
two  men  seemed  to  derive  from  doing  a  kind  act. 
Dun  and  I  reached  Manipur  on  the  10th  of  January. 
Soon  after  my  return,  in  fact  before  the  evening,  a 
Lushai  was  brought  to  me  who  had  been  found  in 
the  jungle  with  his  hands  tightly  fastened  together 
by  a  bar  of  iron  fashioned  into  a  rude  pair  of  hand- 
cuffs. He  appeared  to  be  mad,  but  harmless,  and 
had  probably  been  kept  in  confinement  by  his  own 
people  and  had  escaped.  I  had  the  irons  taken  off, 
and  ordered  him  to  be  cared  for,  but  he  soon  ran  off 
in  the  direction  of  his  own  country. 

On  the  21st  of  January,  Dun  and  I  set  off  on  our 
tour  through  the  Tankhool  country.  We  marched 
vid  Lairen  and  Noongsuangkong,  already  described. 
The  country  had  been  surveyed,  but  the  surveyors 
had  taken  names  of  villages  given  by  men  from  the 
Naga  Hills  district,  and  they  were  unrecognisable  to 
the  native  inhabitants.  Much  of  my  march,  after 
leaving  Noonsuangkoong,  was  through  a  new  country, 
and  a  very  interesting  and  lovely  country  it  was. 
The  benefits  of  being  under  a  strong  government 
were  evident  in  the  peace  that  reigned  everywhere. 
The  Manipuri  language  also  had  spread,  and  in  some 
villages  seemed  to  be  used  by  every  one,  while  in 
others  even  children  understood  it.  It  was  evidently 
the  common  commercial  language. 

On  the  26th,  we  halted  on  the  Lainer  river,  the 
large  village  of  Gazephimi  being  far  above  us  at 
some  miles  distant.  It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  but 


226  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

Dun  wanted  to  see  all  he  could,  and  accompanied 
by  some  hardy  Manipuris  started.  They  all  returned 
in  a  suspiciously  short  space  of  time,  just  at  nightfall, 
Dun  having  astonished  every  one  by  his  marching 
powers.  He  described  the  villagers  as  a  surly, 
morose  set,  the  description  always  given  of  them. 

On  January  28th  we  reached  Jessami,  a  fine 
village  of  the  Sozai  tribe ;  they  much  resembled  the 
Mao  people.  They  crowded  round  us  and  were 
much  pleased  when  we  showed  them  our  watches, 
and  allowed  them  to  feel  our  boots  and  socks.  Some 
of  the  houses  were  large  and  well  stocked  with  rice. 
One  old  man  took  us  into  his  house  and  showed  us  a 
shield  carefully  wrapped  up  in  cloth  that  bore  the 
tokens  of  his  having  slain  fifteen  people.  The 
village  contained  no  skulls,  and  our  friends  told  us 
that  they  obeyed  orders  and  killed  no  one.  We 
enquired  about  the  snowy  peak  of  Saramettie, 
which  was  visible  from  some  point  not  far  dis  ant, 
but  the  people  assured  us  that  they  had  never  heard 
of  it. 

On  the  29th,  some  Metomi  men  came  in  with  a 
young  man  who  acted  as  interpreter,  he  having  been 
captured,  and  then  kept  as  a  guest  in  Manipur  for 
some  time,  to  learn  the  language,  by  Bularam  Singh, 
who  was  the  Minister  accompanying  me.  He  seemed 
quite  pleased  to  see  his  old  host.  The  Metomi  people 
were  a  strange  set,  quite  naked,  except  for  a  cloth 
over  the  shoulders  in  cold  weather.  They  are 
slighter  built  than  the  Angamis  and  Tankhools. 
They  could  count  up  to  one  hundred,  and  three  of 
their  numerals,  four,  six  and  seven,  are  the  same  as 
in  the  Manipuri  language.  They  wear  their  hair 


FRIENDLY  VILLAGERS.  227 

cut  across  the  forehead  like  some  of  the  tribes  in 
Assam.  Their  patterns  of  weaving  rather  resembled 
those  of  the  Abors  and  Kasias,  but  were  finer.  They 
wore  ear-rings  of  brass  wire  very  cleverly  made,  the 
wire  being  imported  through  other  tribes. 

On  the  31st,  having  heard  that  I  should  be  well 
received,  Dun  and  I  started  for  Metomi,  with  an 
escort  of  Manipuris.  We  first  made  a  descent  of 
2000  feet  to  the  Lainer,  which  we  forded,  the  water 
being  knee  deep ;  there  were  the  remains  of  a  sus- 
pension bridge  for  use  in  the  rainy  season.  We  then 
ascended  for  about  1000  or  1500  feet,  till  near  the 
village,  when  I  halted  my  men  and  sent  on  my 
Angami  interpreter,  and  one  of  the  Metomi  men,  to 
ask  that  a  party  might  come  down  to  welcome  us,  as 
I  had  reason  to  think  that  the  villagers  were  unde- 
cided as  to  what  they  should  do,  and  I  feared  to 
frighten  them.  After  waiting  a  long  time,  we  heard 
a  war-cry,  and  we  all  started  to  our  feet  and  seized 
our  arms,  in  case  of  an  attack  ;  the  next  minute, 
however,  there  was  another  cry.  showing  that  the 
people  were  carrying  loads.  Soon  after  a  long  line 
of  men  appeared,  each  carrying  a  small  quantity  of 
rice,  and  the  heads  of  the  village  came  forward, 
presenting  us  with  fowls,  and  heaped  up  the  rice  in 
front  of  me.  We  then  walked  on  to  the  village, 
distant  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  along  an  avenue 
of  pollarded  oaks,  backed  by  fir  trees.  At  last,  after 
passing  a  ditch  and  small  rampart,  we  reached  the 
outer  gate,  then  passed  along  a  narrow  path,  with  a 
precipice  to  our  right,  and  a  thick  thorn  hedge  to 
our  left  for  about  eighty  yards,  as  far  as  the  inner 
gate,  on  entering  which  we  found  ourselves  in  the 

Q  2 


228  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

village.  We  were  then  led  along  a  series  of  winding 
streets  till  we  came  to  the  highest  part. 

This  was  the  most  picturesque  Naga  village  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  reminded  me  of  an  old  continental 
town,  the  ground  it  covered,  being  very  hilly,  and  the 
houses,  constructed  of  timber  with  thatched  roofs 
with  the  eaves  touching  one  another,  built  in  streets. 
Sometimes  one  side  of  a  street  was  higher  than  the 
other,  and  the  upper  side  had  a  little  vacant  space 
railed  in,  in  front  of  the  houses. 

The  houses  were  more  like  those  of  the  Tankhools 
than  the  Angamis,  and  contained  round  tubs  for  beer 
cut  out  of  a  solid  block  of  wood,  in  shape  like  old- 
fashioned  standard  churns.  The  village  contained 
pigs  and  dogs,  and  the  houses  were  decorated  with 
cows'  and  buffaloes'  horns.  We  were  welcomed  in  a 
friendly  way,  but  our  hosts  did  not  seem  to  like  the 
idea  of  our  staying  the  night,  of  which  we  had  no 
intention.  Our  watches  and  binoculars  greatly  in- 
terested them.  We  tried  in  vain  to  induce  the  women 
to  come  out,  the  men  saying  they  feared  lest  we 
should  seize  them.  This  seemed  very  strange,  as  it 
was  the  only  hill  village  I  ever  saw  where  the  women 
had  the  slightest  objection  to  appear.  As  the  Mani- 
puris  always  respect  women,  it  could  not  be  due  to 
their  presence,  even  had  they  had  experience  of  them, 
which  was  not  the  case.  On  leaving  the  village,  we 
passed  through  a  splendid  grove  of  giant  bamboos, 
and  then  turned  into  our  old  path  again.  Metomi 
was  said  to  contain  seven  hundred  houses,  but  that 
seemed  to  me  a  very  low  estimate.  We  reached  our 
camp  near  Jessami  at  7  P.M.,  narrowly  escaping 
a  severe  scorching,  as  some  torch-bearers  who  came 


A   BLAZE.  229 

to  meet  us,  set  fire  to  the  grass  prematurely,  and  we 
had  to  run  hard  to  escape  the  flames.  I  wanted  to 
make  a  vocabulary  of  the  Metomi  language  the  next 
day,  but  the  whole  village  had  a  drinking  bout,  and 
every  one  was  incapacitated  during  the  rest  of  our 
stay. 

We  marched  to  a  place  called  Lapvomai  on 
Febuary  3rd,  and  next  day,  wishing  to  explore  the 
country  beyond,  Dun  and  I,  with  a  picked  party  of 
Manipuris,  crossed  the  ridge  above  the  village,  and 
descending  to  the  stream  below,  began  the  ascent  of 
the  great  Eastern  range,  encamping  in  a  most  lovely 
spot  in  a  pine  forest.  Every  one  was  too  tired  to 
search  for  water,  so  the  Manipuris  went  supperless 
to  bed.  Dun  and  I  had  brought  a  supply,  which  we 
shared  with  our  few  Naga  followers,  the  Manipuris 
being  prevented  from  doing  the  same,  by  their  caste 
prejudices.  Early  next  morning  we  started  up  the 
hill  again,  leaving  the  bulk  of  our  party  a  mile  or 
two  in  advance  of  our  halting  place,  to  search  for 
water  and  cook.  We,  with  two  or  three  plucky 
Manipuris,  whom  hunger  and  thirst  could  not  induce 
to  leave  us,  pursued  our  upward  path.  At  last  we 
came  on  patches  of  snow,  and  in  a  hollow  tree  found 
the  remains  of  a  bear  which  had  gone  there  to  die. 
After  a  toilsome  ascent,  often  impeded  by  a  thick 
undergrowth  of  thorny  bamboo,  we,  having  long 
passed  the  region  of  fir  trees,  reached  the  summit  at 
8000  feet,  only  to  find,  to  our  great  disappointment, 
a  spur  from  the  main  range  blocking  our  view.  As 
this  range  might  have  taken  another  day  to  surmount, 
and  after  all  be  only  the  precursor  of  another,  we 
reluctantly  traced  our  steps  backwards,  and  reached 


1:30  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUll. 

our  party  who  found  water  and  cooked  their  food. 
We  witnessed  some  amusing  instances  of  rapid  eating, 
on  the  part  of  our  hungry  followers,  who  had  well 
deserved  their  dinner.  We  then  descended  to  the 
stream,  and  encamped  on  its  banks  after  being  on 
foot  for  eleven  hours. 

Next  day,  we  marched  to  our  old  encampment  at 
Lapvomai.  On  Febuary  7th,  we  marched  to  Wai- 
long,  passing  through  lovely  scenery,  a  series  of  deep 
valleys  and  ravines  and  high  hills,  with  a  splendid 
view  down  the  valley  of  Thetzir  and  Lainer,  and 
beyond,  the  junction  of  the  latter  with  its  north- 
eastern confluent,  we  finally  encamped  close  to  a  very 
remarkable  gorge.  On  the  8th,  we  had  another 
march  to  the  village  of  Lusour,  where  I  greatly 
pleased  a  woman  and  some  children,  by  giving  them 
red  cloths,  the  former  would  have  denuded  herself  to 
put  hers  on,  had  I  not  prevented  her.  Next  morn- 
ing, before  starting,  we  had  our  breakfast  in  public, 
and  ordered  some  boiled  eggs ;  the  hill  people  are 
supremely  indifferent  to  the  age  of  an  egg,  and  even 
seem  to  think  the  richness  of  flavour  enhanced  by 
age,  so  that  almost  all  brought  to  us  were  either 
addled  or  had  chickens  in  them.  At  least  two  dozen 
were  boiled  before  we  found  one  that  we  could  eat, 
and  as  soon  as  an  egg  was  proved  to  be  bad,  there 
was  a  great  rush  of  Tankhools  to  seize  the  delicacy, 
and  our  bad  taste  in  not  liking  them  gave  great 
satisfaction. 

On  February  9th,  we  reached  Somrah,  a  most 
interesting  but  severe  march  of  eighteen  miles.  We 
first  crossed  a  ridge  8000  feet  in  height,  where 
among  other  trees  we  found  a  new  species  of  yew — 


MOUNTAINEERING.  231 

Cephelotaxus.  After  reaching  the  summit,  we  made  a 
gradual  descent  along  an  exceedingly  steep  hillside, 
where  a  false  step  would  have  landed  us  in  the 
stream  2000  feet  below.  After  this  we  descended 
more  rapidly,  and,  crossing  a  stream,  followed  a 
beautifully  constructed  watercourse  through  some 
recently  cleared  land.  We  traced  our  way  along 
its  windings  for  some  miles,  and  then,  after  another 
ascent,  at  last  came  to  a  lovely  undulating  path 
through  a  forest  of  firs  and  rhododendrons,  the  latter 
just  coming  into  flower.  The  path  at  length,  after 
an  ascent  of  200  feet,  brought  us  to  the  village, 
a  finely  built  one  of  the  regular  Tankhool  type, 
with  over  two  hundred  houses,  built  with  stout 
plank  walls,  and  having  an  appearance  of  much 
comfort. 

The  next  day  we  went  to  Kongailon,  one  of  the 
Somrah  group,  making  a  descent  of  2000  feet  to 
cross  a  river,  and  again  ascending  5600  feet.  We 
passed  many  skilfully  constructed  watercourses  and 
much  terrace  cultivation,  indeed,  the  Somrah  villages 
have  the  finest  system  of  irrigation  I  have  ever  seen, 
and  the  long  parallel  line  of  watercourses  on  a  hill- 
side present  a  most  remarkable  appearance.  At 
Kongailon,  we  halted  a  day  to  explore  the  country, 
and  receive  deputies  from  various  villages.  From 
the  ridge  behind  the  village,  at  a  height  of  from 
7000  to  8000  feet,  there  was  a  fine  view  of  the 
Somrah  basin — valley  it  cannot  be  called ;  it  is  a 
huge  basin,  the  rim  of  which  consists  of  hills,  having 
an  average  height  of  over  8000  feet,  the  villages 
being  on  the  inner  slopes  or  on  bold  spurs. 

On  February  12th,  a  very  severe  march  took  us  to 


232  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUB. 

Guachan,  a  miserable-looking  village  full  of  very 
dirty  people,  many  of  whom  were  naked,  their 
bodies  being  covered  with  a  thick  coating  of  dirt. 
We  had  to  halt  next  day  to  rest  the  coolies,  and  to 
have  a  path  cleared  ahead.  On  February  14th,  we 
again  started,  halting  on  the  Cherebee  river,  at  a 
height  of  4400  feet.  On  our  way,  while  passing 
along  a  lovely  ridge,  covered  with  rhododendrons  in 
flower,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Saramettie,  with  its 
snow  cap. 

Next  day,  we  marched  over  Kachao-phung, 
8000  feet  high,  and  encamped  on  its  slopes  at 
7600  feet.  So  perverse  are  the  ways  of  the  hill-men, 
that  the  road,  a  well-used  one,  was  carried  within 
fifty  feet  of  the  summit,  though  it  would  have  been 
easy  to  cross  at  a  much  lower  level.  We  encamped 
in  a  primeval  forest  of  huge  trees,  the  branches  of 
which,  moved  by  the  fierce  wind  that  blew  all  night, 
waved  to  and  fro  with  such  a  threatening  noise  as  to 
preclude  sleep  for  a  long  time. 

On  the  evening  of  the  1 2th,  one  of  our  coolies  was 
brought  to  me,  who  had  dislocated  his  shoulder.  We 
had  no  doctor  of  any  kind  with  us,  and  no  one  who 
understood  how  to  reduce  it.  Dun  and  I  tried  our 
utmost,  and  I  put  the  poor  fellow  under  chloroform, 
to  relax  the  muscles  and  spare  him  pain,  but,  alas ! 
with  no  result.  I  tried  to  induce  him  to  go  to 
Manipur,  and  be  treated  by  my  native  doctor  there ; 
but  he  objected,  and  preferred  going  to  his  home ;  so 
I  gave  him  a  present  and  let  him  go,  and  very  sorry 
we  were  to  see  him  relinquish  his  only  chance  of 
getting  right  again.  Every  one  ought  to  be  taught 
practically  to  reduce  a  dislocation ;  I  had  often  heard 


A   SAD   ACCIDENT.  233 

the  process  described,  but  never  seen  it  done,  and  my 
lack  of  experience  cost  the  poor  Naga  the  use  of  his 
arm.  It  is  one  of  the  saddest  parts  of  one's  life  in 
the  wilds  of  India  to  meet  cases  of  sickness  and  injury 
without  the  power  to  give  relief.  Simple  complaints 
I  treated  extensively,  and  with  great  success,  but  it 
was  grievous  to  see  such  suffering  in  more  compli- 
cated cases,  and  to  be  unable  to  do  anything.  A 
skilful  and  sympathetic  doctor  has  a  fine  field  for 
good  work  in  such  regions.  A  sick  savage  is  the 
most  miserable  of  mortals. 

The  good  points  of  the  Manipuris,  as  excellent 
material  for  hardy  soldiers,  were  brought  out  very 
prominently  on  these  long  marches.  No  men  could 
have  borne  the  fatigue  and  hardships  better  or  more 
patiently  than  they  did.  It  quite  confirmed  me  in 
the  opinion  I  had  long  since  formed  that,  taken 
every  way,  the  Manipuris  were  superior  to  any  of 
the  hill-tribes  around  them.  I  remember  that  when 
at  Jessami,  one  of  the  Manipuris,  at  my  suggestion, 
challenged  any  Naga,  who  liked,  to  a  wrestling 
match,  none  would  come  forward,  though  the 
villagers  were  a  fine  sturdy  set.  It  was  impossible, 
also,  to  help  noticing,  as  we  went  along,  the  very 
remarkable  aptitude  the  Manipuris  possess  for  dealing 
with  hill-tribes.  The  Burmese  tried  in  vain  to  sub- 
due the  Tankhools,  and  in  one  case  a  force  of  seven 
hundred  men,  that  they  sent  against  them,  was 
entirely  annihilated.  However,  as  the  Manipuris 
advanced,  the  different  tribes,  after  one  struggle, 
quietly  submitted,  and  on  both  occasions  when  I 
inarched  through  the  north-eastern  Tankhool  country, 
the  people  were  in  admirable  order,  and  behaved 


234:  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

as   if  they  had    always   been   peaceful   subjects  of 
Manipur. 

Next  morning,  though  the  thermometer  was  at 
thirty- six  degrees,  the  Manipuris  felt  the  cold  so 
severely  from  the  terrible  wind  that  had  been 
blowing  all  night,  that  they  did  not  attempt  to  cook 
before  marching,  but  started  off  and  hurried  down 
the  hill  to  get  to  a  warmer  region.  I  never  knew 
the  hardy  fellows  do  this  before,  and  it  shows  the 
influence  of  a  piercing  wind  in  making  cold  felt, 
as  I  have  often  seen  them  quite  happy  on  a  still 
night  with  the  thermometer  at  twenty-six  degrees 
or  lower. 

Five  more  marches  brought  us  to  Kongal  Tannah, 
where  I  encamped  on  the  ground  we  occupied  in 
1881-1882  when  I  was  Boundary  Commissioner. 
On  our  way,  we  received  a  visit  from  Tonghoo,  the 
redoubtable  Chussad  chief,  now  a  peaceful  subject 
of  Manipur,  a  man  of  the  usual  Kuki  type,  imperturb- 
able and  inscrutable.  Next  day,  I  inspected  the 
boundary  pillars  I  had  set  up,  and  found  them  intact, 
a  satisfactory  proof  that  the  settlement  was  not 
unacceptable  to  either  Manipur  or  Burmah. 

We  marched  back  by  the  old  route,  encamping 
as  we  had  done  more  than  four  years  before  in 
the  deep  valleys  of  the  Maglung  and  Turet. 
On  the  24th,  from  the  crest  of  the  Yoma  range, 
we  saw  the  valley  of  Manipur  once  more  at  our 
feet,  and  in  the  evening  encamped  at  Ingorok. 
Next  day,  I  parted  from  my  friend,  I  riding  into 
Manipur,  and  Dun  going  north  for  a  few  days' 
more  survey  of  the  country.  He  rejoined  me  on 
March  2nd.  Thus  ended  one  of  the  hardest,  but,  at 


THE  BOUNDARY  APPROVED.  235 

the  same  time,  one  of  the  pleasantest  marches  I  ever 
made,  all  the  pleasanter  for  the  society  of  such  a 
clever  and  charming  companion.  We  spent  one 
more  week  together,  and  then  Dun  went  back  to 
his  appointment  in  the  Intelligence  Department,  to 
my  great  regret,  and  I  settled  down  to  my  usual 
routine  work,  constantly  varied  by  interesting  little 
episodes. 


236  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 


CHAPTER  XXYI. 

More  troubles  with  Thangal  Major — Tit-for-tat — Visit  to  the  Kubo  valley 
— A  new  Aya  Pooiel — Journey  to  Shillong — War  is  declared — A 
message  to  Kendat,  to  the  Bombay-Burmah  Corporation  Agents — 
Anxiety  as  to  their  fate — March  to  Mao. 

DURING  the  spring  of  1885,  I  had  constant  trouble 
with  Thangal  Major ;  the  old  man  was  perpetually 
doing  illegal  acts.  He  had  lost  his  head  during  my 
absence  in  England,  and  though  treated  with  every 
courtesy,  he  greatly  resented  being  called  to  order. 
Some  Mussulmans  had  complained  to  Mr.  Elliott 
about  the  oppression  exercised  towards  them,  and  in 
my  absence  Thangal  was  foolish  enough  to  imprison 
them.  Of  course,  I  heard  of  it,  and  insisted  on  their 
release,  and  this  weakened  his  authority.  Again,  he, 
as  "  Aya  Pooiel,"  i.e.  Minister  for  Burmese  Affairs, 
greatly  resented  our  not  having  settled  the  Kongal 
case,  and  insisted  on  the  authors  being  punished. 
We  were  very  good  friends  privately,  though  I 
always  expected  further  trouble  with  him.  The 
Maharajah's  ill  health  also  gave  me  anxiety,  as  he 
was  no  longer  the  active  man  he  once  was,  and 
was  daily  falling  more  and  more  under  Thangal's 
influence. 

At  last  matters  came  to  a  crisis.  On  May  23rd, 
I  received  a  letter  from  the  Burmese  authorities 
at  Tamu,  brought  by  a  deputation  reporting  that 


THANGAL   DISGRACED.  237 

some  murders  had  been  committed  by  Manipuri 
subjects,  and  the  next  day  when  the  visitors  came 
to  see  me,  they  openly  accused  the  Mombee  Kukis 
of  having  done  the  deed.  I  felt  sure  that  the  out- 
rage had  been  carried  out  at  the  instigation  of 
Thangal  Major,  as  a  set-off  against  the  Kongal  case, 
and  I  sent  for  him.  He  came  to  see  me  on 
May  25th,  and,  when  I  opened  the  subject,  he 
assumed  rather  a  jaunty  air.  I  spoke  very  gravely, 
and  told  him  that  it  was  a  very  serious  business, 
and  that  an  investigation  must  take  place,  and  that 
I  wished  him,  as  Aya  Pooiel,  to  accompany  me.  He 
replied  in  a  very  unbecoming  manner,  and  began 
to  make  all  sorts  of  frivolous  excuses,  the  burden  of 
his  speech  being  that,  as  justice  had  not  been  done 
in  the  Kongal  case,  there  was  no  need  to  investigate 
a  case  brought  by  the  Burmese.  I  was  very  calm, 
and  remonstrated  several  times,  but  seeing  that  it 
had  no  effect,  I  requested  him  to  leave  my  presence, 
which  he  did.  I  then  wrote  to  the  Maharajah 
asking  him  to  appoint  Bularam  Singh  to  aid  me  in 
the  investigation,  also  reporting  Thangal's  conduct, 
and  saying  that  I  could  not  allow  him  to  attend  on 
me  till  he  had  apologised.  The  worst  of  Thangal's 
behaviour  was,  that  he  spoke  in  Manipuri,  and  in 
the  presence  of  the  Burmese  messengers,  who  under- 
stood it,  instead  of  in  Hindoostani  which  no  one 
but  myself  understood.  Thinking  carefully  over  the 
matter,  I  wrote  to  the  Maharajah  on  May  26th, 
requesting  him  to  replace  Thangal  in  the  Aya  Pooiel- 
ship  by  another  officer,  suggesting  Bularam  Singh, 
as  I  did  not  consider  it  safe  to  leave  him  in  charge 
of  the  Burmese  frontier. 


238  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

There  was  the  greatest  opposition  offered  to  my 
request,  and  the  Maharajah  made  every  effort  to 
evade  it.  It  was  currently  stated  by  people  in  the 
Court  circle  that  it  would  be  easier  to  depose  the 
Maharajah  himself,  but  I  remained  firm.  Meanwhile, 
Bularam  Singh  was  appointed  to  accompany  me,  and, 
on  June  8th,  I  left  for  Moreh  Tannah,  near  Tamu, 
halting  the  first  day  at  Thobal.  Before  leaving,  I 
received  an  apologetic  letter  from  Thangal,  and  later 
he  called  on  me,  and  made  an  ample  apology, 
speaking  very  nicely.  I  accepted  the  apology 
personally,  quite  reciprocating  his  friendly  senti- 
ments, but  told  him  that,  having  acted  in  the  way 
he  did,  I  could  not  trust  him  as  Aya  Pooiel. 

I  reached  Moreh  Tannah  on  June  13th,  and  was 
visited  by  some  Burmese.  The  next  day,  I  proceeded 
to  the  scene  of  the  murder,  and  exhumed  two  head- 
less bodies,  and  took  evidence  regarding  the  raid. 
Before  reaching  Manipur,  I  heard  through  some 
Kukis  the  most  convincing  proofs  that  the  Mombee 
people  had  committed  the  raid,  and  at  Thangal 
Major's  instigation.  I  obtained  all  the  necessary 
details  later  on,  but  the  Burmese  war  prevented  my 
undertaking  an  expedition  for  the  release  of  some 
Burmese  captives  who  had  been  carried  away  and 
sold,  though  I  accomplished  it  later  on. 

At  Moreh  Tannah,  I  obtained  some  excellent 
mangoes,  the  only  ones  free  from  insects  that  I  ever 
saw  on  the  eastern  frontier,  those  in  Assam  and 
Manipur  being  so  full  of  them  as  to  be  uneatable 
when  ripe,  though  beautiful  to  look  at.  Here  also 
I  had  most  unpleasant  evidence  of  the  existence  of  a 
plant  that  has  the  smell  of  decomposed  flesh.  I 


STRUGGLE  WITH  THE  EAJAH.  239 

imagined  that  a  dead  body  had  been  buried  under 
the  temporary  hut  I  lived  in,  till  a  Manipuri  ex- 
plained matters  to  me,  and  showed  me  the  plant  in 
question. 

I  reached  Manipur  on  June  20th,  and  a  day  or 
two  after  wrote  to  the  Maharajah,  calling  to  mind 
my  letter  respecting  the  Aya  Pooielship,  and  again 
requesting  Thangal's   removal.     The  next  day  the 
old  fellow  called,  and  we  had  a  very  friendly  inter- 
view, and  I  explained  my  reasons  for  acting  as  I  had 
done.     He  seemed  convinced,  and  rose  and  seized 
my  hand,  and  said,  "You  are  right.     I  understand 
thoroughly."      He   then   said   he   would   cheerfully 
submit,  and  went  away  in  an  apparently  excellent 
frame  of  mind.     It  is  said  that  after  this,  his  son, 
Lumphel  Singh,  a  very  bad  young  man,  talked  him 
over  and  urged  him  to  resist,  but,  anyhow,  he  soon 
after  went  to  see  the  Maharajah,  and  recanted  all 
he  had  said  to  me.     However,  I  was  determined  to 
persist,  and  told  the  Maharajah  plainly  that  he  must 
choose  between   me   and  Thangal,  with  the   result 
that  he  consented,  and  the  Aya  Pooielship  was  given 
to  another. 

This  struggle  caused  me  great  regret,  as  Thangal 
had  many  good  qualities,  and  but  for  his  having 
had  his  own  way  too  much  during  rny  absence  in 
England,  would  never  have  lost  his  head  as  he  did. 
However,  there  was  one  good  result,  as  I  established 
very  friendly  relations  with  the  Burmese  authorities, 
who  saw  that  I  wished  to  be  just,  and  this  stood  rne 
in  good  stead  when  the  war  broke  out. 

During  the  whole  time  that  the  dispute  was  going 
on,  I  had  the  support  of  the  Jubraj,  who  said  I  was 


240  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN    MANIPUR. 

in  the  right,  and  most  people,  I  believe,  thought 
likewise.  All  the  same  it  was  painful  to  gain  a 
victory  over  one  who  had  worked  well  with  me  for 
years,  more  especially  as  I  felt  that  the  weakness  of 
our  own  Government  in  not  insisting  on  justice  being 
done  in  the  Kongal  case,  had  given  him  some 
justification  in  his  own  eyes,  though  this  was  a  plea 
that  I  could  never  admit. 

In  October  1885,  I  went  to  Shillong  to  see  the 
Acting  Chief  Commissioner,  Mr.  Ward,  and  as  he 
was  intending  to  march  through  Mauipur  on  his 
way  to  the  Naga  Hills,  I  stayed  with  him,  and  we 
all  left  Shillong  together  on  November  4th.  We 
left  Cachar  on  November  12th,  and  halted  that 
evening  at  Jeeree  Ghat,  I  on  the  Manipuri  side  of 
the  river,  the  Chief  Commissioner  and  his  following 
on  the  British.  A  short  time  before  dinner — we 
were  all  Mr.  Ward's  guests — I  received  a  note  from 
him,  directing  my  attention  to  a  telegram,  and 
asking  me  to  act  on  it.  The  telegram  was  a 
startling  one,  and  was  to  the  effect  that  war  with 
Burmah  was  to  commence,  and  that  our  troops 
would  pass  the  frontier  on  a  certain  date ;  that  there 
were  nine  European  and  many  native  British 
subjects  in  the  employ  of  the  Bombay-Burmah 
Corporation  in  the  Chindwin  forests  with  whom  it 
had  been  impossible  to  communicate,  and  to  ask  me 
to  make  every  effort  to  let  them  know  the  facts,  and 
to  do  anything  I  could  to  assist  them.  The  matter 
was  extremely  urgent,  as,  if  I  remember  rightly,  the 
25th  was  the  day  for  the  troops  to  enter  Upper 
Burmah,  and  every  moment  was  of  the  utmost 
importance. 


BRITISH  SUBJECTS  IN  PERIL.  241 

I  thought  it  over  for  five  minutes,  and  determined 
on  a  course  of  action,  and  set  to  work  at  once  to 
follow  it  out.  I  knew  perfectly  well  that  with  .the 
frontier  and  all  roads  so  carefully  guarded,  as  I  had 
seen  those  in  the  Kubo  valley  to  be,  there  was 
absolutely  no  chance  of  a  secret  messenger  advancing 
ten  miles  on  Burmese  soil,  and  I  therefore  resolved 
to  send  my  letter  through  the  Kendat  Woon 
(Governor  of  Kendat),  the  great  Burmese  province 
of  which  the  Kubo  valley  was  part.  I  wrote  a 
letter  to  the  European  employes  of  the  Bombay- 
Burmah  Corporation,  giving  the  message  I  was 
asked  to  transmit,  and  urging  them  to  make  every 
effort  .to  accept  my  hospitality  and  protection  in 
Manipur.  To  this  letter  I  appended  Burmese  and 
Manipuri  translations,  and  put  them  in  an  open 
envelope  addressed  in  the  three  languages,  hoping 
and  believing  that,  seeing  that  the  contents  were 
the  same  in  both  languages,  which  they  bad  the 
means  of  understanding,  the  Burmese  authorities 
would,  on  the  principle  of  the  Rosetta .  stone,  assume 
that  I  had  said  the  same  in  English. 

This  done,  I  enclosed  the  envelope  in  a  letter  to 
the  Kendat  Woon,  in  which  I  told  him  exactly  how 
matters  stood,  and  that  in  a  short  time  Burmah 
would  be  annexed,  and  urging  him,  as  he  valued 
the  goodwill  of  the  conquerors,  to  make  every  effort 
to  protect  and  aid  the  British  subjects  in  his 
province.  I  asked  him  to  deliver  the  letter,  to 
which  I  had  appended  translations  that  he  might 
read  what  I  said,  and  to  bear  in  mind  that  any 
service  he  might  render  would  be  richly  rewarded 
and  never  forgotten,  while  he  might  rely  on  my 

R 


242  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN  MANIPUR. 

word  as  his  well-wisher ;  that  a  terrible  punishment 
would  befall  any  one  who  injured  a  hair  of  the  head 
of  a  British  subject.  In  addition  to  this,  I  wrote 
letters  to  the  Burmese  authorities  at  Tamu,  with 
whom  I  was  on  friendly  terms,  begging  them,  as 
they  valued  their  lives,  and  my  goodwill,  to  forward 
the  letter  to  the  Woon  with  all  possible  speed. 

This  done,  I  went  to  dine  with  the  Chief  Commis- 
sioner, and  when  he  asked  if  I  had  received  his  note, 
I  told  him  I  had  acted  on  it.  Feeling  that  I  had 
done  all  that  I  could  for  the  best,  I  took  no  further 
steps  at  the  time  than  to  issue  orders  to  the  Manipuri 
frontier  stations,  to  give  all  aid  requisite  to  fugitives 
from  Burmah,  and  to  make  arrangements  for  their 
being  entertained  in  Manipur,  should  they  arrive  in 
my  absence. 

I  heard  afterwards  that  there  was  great  anxiety 
in  Burmah  when  it  was  known  that  I  had  commu- 
nicated with  our  isolated  countrymen  through  the 
Burmese  authorities,  it  being  regarded  as  likely  to 
seal  their  fate. 

I  marched  to  Mao  on  the  Naga  Hills  frontier  with 
the  Chief  Commissioner,  and  then  returned  to  Mani- 
pur, arriving  on  the  4th,  and  on  the  5th  heard  from 
Moreh  Tannah  that  a  European  was  being  kept  a 
prisoner  at  Kendat.  I  wrote  at  once  to  the  Tamu 
Phoongyee,  asking  him  to  use  his  influence  to  release 
him,  saying  that  I  was  in  a  position  to  march  to  his 
aid  in  case  my  letter  had  no  effect. 

On  December  9th,  I  heard  that  all  the  Europeans 
at  Kendat  had  been  murdered,  the  Queen  of  Burmah's 
secretary  having  arrived  with  one  hundred  regular 
troops  on  a  steamer  and  ordered  their  execution,  and 


CAPTIVES  IN   BUEMAH.  243 

that  forty  of  the  Boinbay-Burmah  Corporation's 
elephants  and  all  their  native  followers  had  been 
arrested. 

On  December  10th,  the  news  of  the  capture  of 
Mandalay  arrived.  It  gave  immense  satisfaction, 
and  it  was  said  that  many  of  the  old  people,  who 
knew  what  Burmah  was,  were  so  pleased  that  they 
could  not  eat  their  dinners.  The  Jubraj  visited  me 
to  offer  his  congratulations,  and  a  salute  of  thirty-one 
guns  was  fired. 


R  2 


244  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUH. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

News  from  Kendat — Mr.  Morgan  and  his  people  Fafe — I  determine  to 
march  to  Moreh  Tannah — March  to  Kendat — Arrive  in  time  to  save 
the  Bomhay-Burmah  Corporation  Agents — Visit  of  the  Woon — Visit 
to  the  Woon. 

ON  December  17th,  I  at  last  received  a  letter  from 
Mr.  A.  J.  Morgan,  the  chief  agent  of  the  Bombay- 
Burmah  Corporation  at  Kendat,  acknowledging  my 
letter  of  November  12th.  He  told  me  that  three 
Europeans,  Messrs.  Allan,  Roberts  and  Moricur,  had 
been  murdered  on  the  River  Chindwin  by  the  Queen's 
Secretary ;  that  he  and  Messrs.  Ruckstuhl  and  Bretto 
had  been  protected  by  the  Kendat  Woon,  and  four 
others  by  the  Merigin  Woon.  He  said  the  Chindwin 
valley  was  filling  with  dacoits,  i.e.,  brigands,  and  that 
their  position  was  very  precarious.  I  at  once  wrote 
to  the  Woon  thanking  him  warmly  for  the  protection 
he  had  accorded  to  my  fellow-subjects,  and  sent  him 
a  pair  of  handsome  double-barrelled  guns,  one  of 
them  a  rifle,  as  a  present,  also  five  hundred  rupees, 
which  I  asked  him  to  give  to  Mr.  Morgan. 

Feeling  certain  of  the  dangerous  position  of  the 
British  subjects  at  Kendat,  if  they  were  surrounded 
by  disbanded  soldiery  who  had  turned  brigands,  I 
determined  to  march  to  the  frontier,  so  as  to  be  ready 
to  give  aid,  if  necessary.  I  accordingly  asked  the 
Maharajah  to  lend  me  400  Manipuris,  and  500  Kukis, 


MARCH  TO  BURMAH.  245 

and  one  mountain  gun.  With  these,  and  fifty  men 
of  my  escort  of  the  4th  Bengal  Infantry,  under 
Subadar  Baluk  Earn  Chowby,  I  marched  off  on 
December  19th. 

My  escort  consisted  of  sixty  men  of  all  ranks,  but 
I  weeded  out  ten  as  not  likely  to  stand  the  severe 
marches  we  might  have  to  undertake.  I  then 
paraded  the  remainder  and  addressed  them,  saying 
that  any  man  who  felt  himself  unfit  for  service  might 
fall  out,  and  1  should  think  none  the  worse  of  him. 
All  stood  fast,  and  then  I  said,  "Now,  I  will  not  take 
you,  unless  you  promise  me  not  to  fall  sick,  till  you 
have  escorted  me  back  safely  to  Manipur."  The 
men  gave  a  shout  of  acclamation,  and  I  gave  the 
order  to  march,  and  never  had  I  better,  braver  or 
more  devoted  men  under  me,  or  men  who  bore  hard- 
ship and  want  of  all  the  little  comforts  of  life  more 
cheerfully. 

We  reached  Moreh  Tannah,  where  I  had  intended 
to  halt  and  watch  events,  on  December  23rd,  and 
there  I  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  Morgan,  who 
described  the  state  of  things  at  Kendat  as  daily 
getting  worse,  and  expressed  his  conviction  that  if 
the  dacoits  reached  Kendat,  the  Woon  would  be 
unable  to  hold  his  own ;  he  therefore  hoped  I  might 
be  able  to  afford  them  the  aid  they  so  sorely  needed, 
as,  unless  a  force  marched  to  their  assistance  speedily, 
their  lives  would  not  be  safe.  On  hearing  this,  I 
determined  to  march  for  Kendat  at  once,  and  by  the 
rapidity  of  our  movements  overcome  all  resistance; 
indeed,  not  to  allow  the  Burmese  time  to  think  of  it. 
Accordingly  we  marched  to  Tamu,  where  the  author- 
ities at  once  submitted,  and  I  declared  the  country 


246  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUB. 

annexed,  and  reappointed  the  old  officials,  pending 
further  orders,  promising  ray  protection  to  all  classes, 
and  calling  on  the  people  to  complain  at  once  if  any 
of  my  followers  injured  them. 

All  this  done,  we  marched  to  Mauio,  some  miles 
beyond  Tamu,  where  we  halted  in  the  rice  fields 
attached  to  the  village  which  was  very  strongly 
stockaded.  My  cam])  was  at  once  filled  with  men, 
women  and  children,  all  disposed  to  be  friendly  and 
all  willing  to  receive  little  presents.  It  was  a  pretty 
feature  of  the  Kubo  valley,  as  of  Upper  Burmah 
generally,  and  as  in  Assam  formerly,  that  immedi- 
ately on  leaving  the  village  cultivation  you  plunged 
at  once  into  forest. 

My  party  was  not  so  numerous  as  I  could  have 
wished.  The  Minister,  Bularam  Singh,  accompanied 
me,  but  the  nine  hundred  men  all  told,  that  I  had 
asked  for,  were  not  there,  and  the  supply  of  provisions 
was  scanty.  I  made  all  my  escort  take  ten  days' 
food  per  man,  with  orders  not  to  touch  it,  without 
my  direct  permission,  and  I  procured  supplies  where- 
ever  I  could,  as  we  went  along.  I  also  took  a  large 
supply  of  money. 

As  Bularam  Singh  was  holding  the  appointment 
formerly  held  by  Thangal,  he  had  not  the  knowledge 
to  help  him  in  all  petty  details  that  the  other  would 
have  had.  However,  realising  more  keenly  than 
ever  from  my  experience  at  the  relief  of  Kohima, 
the  extreme  value  of  time,  and  of  rapid  strokes, 
I  pushed  on  at  all  hazards,  trusting  to  have  my 
numbers  made  up. 

I  had  a  few  first-rate  Manipuri  officers  with  me, 
and  my  old  orderlies,  Sowpa,  Thutot,  and  Sundha. 


ALL   HASTE   FOR   KENDAT. 

I  took  my  excellent  hospital  assistant,  Lachman 
Parshad,  and  my  Manipuri  secretary  and  interpreter, 
Ohumder  Singh,  and  most  of  my  old  chuprassies, 
who  were  invaluable.  My  head  clerk,  Rusni  Lall 
Coondoo,  was  unfortunately  on  leave,  marrying  his 
daughter,  and  I  greatly  missed  him. 

On  the  morning  of  December  24th,  we  started 
from  Mamo,  determined  to  reach  Kendat  next  day> 
though  the  Burmese  said  it  was  absolutely  impossible 
to  do  it.  I  had  with  me  my  escort  of  fifty  men  of 
the  4th  B.I.,  and  between  three  hundred  and  four 
hundred  Manipuris,  the  Kukis  not  having  arrived. 
The  old  road  had  been  disused,  and  our  path  was  a 
perfect  zigzag.  We  halted  long  after  sunset  at 
Pendowa  on  a  small  stream,  the  Nunparoo.  The 
mountain  gun  did  not  arrive,  and  half  our  force  was 
not  up  till  midnight.  When  all  the  coolies  had 
arrived,  I  told  them  that  if  we  reached  Kendat  next 
evening,  they  should  have  buffalo  to  eat. 

The  country  through  which  we  had  passed  was 
not  naturally  a  difficult  one,  but  there  had  been  no 
attempt  to  make  it  good,  and  in  places  it  was  very 
bad,  all  the  more  so  from  the  unnecessary  number 
of  times  that  we  crossed  the  same  river.  I  was 
much  interested  to  see  large  numbers  of  bullock 
carts  in  the  villages,  such  not  being  used  in 
Manipur. 

Next  morning,  we  started  early,  and  soon  began 
to  ascend  the  Ungocking  hills.  This  seemed  endless, 
one  range  succeeded  another,  here  and  there  we  saw 
coal  cropping  out  of  the  hillside.  After  about 
12.30  P.M.,  the  path  was  alternately  along  the  bed  of 
a  stream  and  over  high  ridges,  one  of  those  meaning- 


248  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

less,  winding  roads  that  seem  made  expressly  to 
irritate  people  with  no  time  to  spare.  At  last,  in  the 
far  distance,  we  saw  a  scarped  hill,  that  was  said  to 
be  close  to  Kendat,  and  cheered  by  the  sight,  we 
pressed  on,  but  it  was  hours  before  we  reached  the 
goal.  About  4  P.M.,  I  met  a  Burmese,  who  spoke 
Hindoostani,  and  gave  me  a  letter  from  Mr.  Morgan, 
telling  me  that  he  and  his  party  were  all  well,  and 
earnestly  longing  for  our  arrival.  The  man  told  me 
that  he  was  the  "  Hathee  Jemadar,"  i.e.,  the  man  in 
charge  of  the  elephants,  and  he  accompanied  us. 

At  last,  just  after  sunset  we  reached  the  Chindwin 
river,  even  then,  in  the  dry  season,  six  hundred  yards 
wide.  We  gave  a  loud  cheer  and  hoisted  the  Union 
Jack ;  and  the  "  Hathee  Jemadar  "  went  over  to  tell 
the  Europeans  we  had  come  to  save,  of  our  arrival. 
All  my  escort  and  most  of  the  Manipuris  marched  in 
with  me ;  every  man  had  done  his  best  and  hearty 
were  the  congratulations  that  passed  between  us. 

We  had  marched  sixty-five  miles  over  a  terribly 
rough  country,  the  last  thirty  being  quite  impassable 
for  even  laden  mules,  in  thirty  hours.  A  havildar 
of  the  4th  said,  "  Sahib,  is  not  our  march  one  of  the 
greatest  on  record  ?  "  I  told  him  that  it  was.  It  was 
pleasant  to  think  that  we  had  arrived  on  Christmas 
Day.  How  little  my  children  in  England  realised 
the  way  I  was  employed. 

In  less  than  an  hour  Mr.  Morgan,  who  had  seen  our 
arrival,  came  over  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Ruckstuhl 
and  Bretto,  his  subordinates,  all  dressed  in  Burmese 
costume,  everything  they  had  having  been  plundered 
in  the  Woon's  absence.  Mr.  Morgan  brought  over 
a  message  from  the  Woori  to  'me,  saying  that  he 


ON   THE   CHINDW1N.  249 

submitted  to  my  authority,  and  would  come  over  to- 
morrow, and  tender  his  formal  submission. 

Next  day  he  appeared  with  Mr.  Morgan  and  made 
his  submission.  He  was  a  dignified  old  man,  with 
a  pleasant  face  expressive  of  much  character.  I 
thanked  him  on  behalf  of  Government  for  his  ser- 
vices in  protecting  British  subjects,  and  told  him 
that,  while  assuming  charge  of  the  country  on  the 
part  of  the  British  Government,  I  wished  him  to 
remain  in  office,  and  conduct  the  administration 
pending  definite  instructions.  I  told  him  that  I 
expected  him  to  maintain  order,  and  quiet  down  the 
country,  and  promised  him  any  assistance  which  he 
might  require  to  aid  him  in  the  endeavour. 

After  this,  I  set  to  work  to  secure  supplies  with 
Mr.  Morgan's  aid,  so  as  to  be  ready  for  any  emer- 
gency, and  then  crossed  the  river  and  called  on  the 
Woon  and  inspected  the  stockade,  a  huge  enclosure. 
420  yards  long  and  163  wide,  with  a  wall  of  solid 
teak  logs,  18  feet  high,  and  none  less  than  a  foot 
square,  with  strong  heavy  gates.  I  returned  to  my 
camp  before  nightfall,  and  the  mountain  gun  arrived 
under  the  escort  of  Gour  Duan  Subadar.  Next  day, 
I  heard  that  the  Mengin  Woon  had  absconded, 
finding  his  position  untenable. 

Had  I  had  a  trained  levy  at  my  disposal,  as  would 
have  been  the  case  had  my  advice  been  followed,  I 
could  have  easily  sent  a  force  to  occupy  Mengin,  arid 
might  indeed  have  marched  to  Mandalay.  As  it  was, 
commanding  only  irregulars,  my  position  was  one  of 
daily  anxiety. 

The  site  of  Kendat  was  very  picturesque,  situated 
on  the  high  left  bank  of  the  Chindwin,  up  and  down 


250  MY  EXPEKIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

which  a  view  of  many  miles  is  obtained,  the  reach 
being  there  a  long  one.  The  stockade  contained  the 
greater  part  of  the  official  residences,  and  a  good 
proportion  of  the  inhabitants,  but  there  were  many 
houses  outside,  and  temples  and  phoongyes'  resi- 
dences. Below  the  town  was  a  large  Manipuri 
village,  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  captives 
taken  in  the  war  of  1819-25. 

In  the  rainy  season,  when  the  Chindwin  is  at  its 
height,  and  1200  yards  wide,  with  the  long  ranges 
of  the  Manipuri  Hills  in  the  background,  the  view  is 
said  to  be  very  beautiful.  For  many  miles  round 
Kendat,  to  the  east  of  the  Chindwin,  the  country  is 
flat,  but  studded  here  and  there  with  strange-looking 
hills  with  scarped  sides,  that  rise  abruptly  out  of  the 
plains,  calling  to  mind  the  hill-forests  of  Central 
India.  Kendat  was  well  supplied  with  boats,  many 
of  them  being  most  elaborately  carved. 

It  was  a  great  misfortune  that  none  of  the  men  of 
my  escort  understood  the  management  of  boats,  a 
most  useful  accomplishment  on  the  eastern  side  of 
India,  where  rivers  abound,  and  one  in  which  the 
men  of  the  old  Assam  regiments  used  to  be  proficient. 


(     251      ) 


CHAPTER  XXViri. 

People  fairly  friendly — Crucifixion — Carelessness  of  Man! purls — I  cross 
the  Chindwin — Recross  the  Chindwin — Collect  provisions — Erect 
stockades  and  fortify  our  position — Revolt  at  Kendat — We  assume 
the  offensive — Capture  boats  and  small  stockades — Revolt  put  down — 
Woon  and  Ruckstuhl  rescued — Steamers  arrive  and  leave. 

THE  Burmese  were  fairly  friendly  to  us,  though  they 
did  not  display  any  love  for  the  Manipuris,  and  the 
latter  showed  rather  too  plainly  that  they  thought 
the  tables  were  turned,  and  that  they  now  had  the 
upper  hand  of  the  Burmese. 

In  many  of  the  villages  along  our  line  of  route  in 
the  Kubo  valley,  we  had  observed  crosses  ready  for 
the  crucifixion  of  malefactors,  especially  dacoits. 
These  were  also  to  be  seen  here  and  there,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  at  Kendat,  but  the  Woon  after- 
wards told  me  that  he  rarely  crucified  offenders 
and  disliked  employing  torture ;  indeed  he  had  the 
reputation  of  being  a  merciful  old  man.  However, 
the  people  at  large  seemed  quite  to  approve  of  strong 
measures,  and  knowing  what  Burmese  dacoits  are 
capable  of,  I  hardly  wonder.  After  I  left,  the  man 
who  introduced  himself  to  me  as  "  Hathe'e  Jemadar  " 
incautiously  surrendered  to  some  dacoits,  who  first 
broke  the  bones  of  his  legs  and  arms  inch  by  inch, 
and  then  ripped  him  up  ! 

On  the  28th  December,  I  crossed  the  river  with  my 


252  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

whole  force,  and  entrenched  myself  on  the  sandbank 
of  the  Chindwin.  That  evening,  I  heard  from  Mr. 
Morgan,  that  there  was  a  strong  party  opposed  to 
the  Woon,  and  greatly  dissatisfied  with  him  for 
having  submitted.  Troops  had  been  expected  up 
the  river  from  the  British  force  at  Mandalay,  and 
their  delay  encouraged  the  Burmese  to  hold  up  their 
heads.  Next  day,  December  29th,  the  air  was  full 
of  rumours,  and  some  of  the  Burmese  Manipuris,  I 
have  just  alluded  to,  plied  my  Manipuris  with  all 
sorts  of  stories,  of  a  rising  against  us,  on  the  part  of 
the  Burmese.  These  stories  had  a  great  effect  on 
the  Manipuris,  and  they  displayed  so  much  unsteadi- 
ness, and  at  the  same  time  such  gross  carelessness, 
that  I  determined  to  recross  the  river.  I  heard  too 
that  six  men  coming  to  join  rne,  had  been  killed,  and 
three  wounded  on  the  road,  report  said,  by  Burmese. 
I  laughed  at  the  idea,  as  I  was  sure  that  the  assailants 
were  wild  Chins,  as  the  Burmese  would  not  show 
their  hand  prematurely.  However,  the  news  spread, 
and  served  to  dishearten  the  men. 

On  the  30th  I  transported  my  whole  force  to  the 
opposite  bank,  it  cost  me  incredible  trouble,  and  I 
had  to  superintend  the  most  petty  details  myself.  I 
sent  over  a  party  to  construct  a  stockade  into  which 
the  Manipuris  could  be  penned  like  a  flock  of  sheep 
for  the  night  and  which  I  could  enlarge  afterwards, 
and  I  insisted  on  the  work  being  finished  that  day. 
It  was  finished,  and  last  of  all  I  crossed  the  river 
with  my  escort. 

Next  day,  Mr.  Morgan  told  me  that  things  had 
quieted  down  very  much  among  the  Burmese ;  we 
did  all  in  our  power  to  collect  provisions,  and  I 


CROSS  THE   EIVER.  253 

enlarged  the  stockade,  improving  it  from  day  to  day, 
till  it  at  last  became  a  commodious  and  strong  defen- 
sive building,  scientifically  constructed.  I  occupied 
a  small  stockade  on  a  hillock  above  it,  whence  I  had 
a  good  view,  arid  could  overlook  the  Manipuris.  I 
had  a  circle  of  outlying  pickets  supplied  by  the  Kuki 
irregulars  with  me,  and  these  were  a  perpetual  safe- 
guard against  surprise  during  the  long  dark  nights. 
We  cleared  the  jungle  from  round  our  stockade,  and 
did  all  we  could  to  make  our  position  secure. 

Still  the  Manipuris  were  a  constant  anxiety,  illus- 
trating the  well-known  saying,  "  Fools  rush  in, 
where  angels  fear  to  tread."  Their  carelessness  was 
astonishing.  I  had  the  utmost  difficulty  in  getting 
them  to  take  the  most  ordinary  precautions.  The 
bravest  and  best-disciplined  troops  in  the  world 
would  never  think  of  neglecting  every  rule  of 
warfare  in  the  way  that  they  did.  Fire  was  a  con- 
stant danger,  and  having  no  warm  clothes,  the 
Manipuris  could  hardly  be  prevented  from  lighting 
fires  at  night,  thereby  incurring  a  double  danger, 
viz.,  that  of  setting  fire  to  the  stockade,  also 
lighting  up  our  position  and  enabling  an  enemy 
to  fire  at  us.  I  was  as  a  rule  eighteen  or  nine- 
teen hours  on  foot  out  of  the  twenty-four,  and 
during  the  five  or  six  allotted  to  sleep,  I  generally 
got  up  three  times,  to  see  that  all  was  right. 

Provisions  began  to  come  in,  and  on  the  last 
day  of  the  year,  I  sent  off  400  coolies  to  Moreh 
Tannah  for  provisions,  so  as  to  reduce  the  useless 
mouths,  and  to  lessen  the  danger  from  fire.  I 
rebuilt  all  the  huts  of  green  grass,  as  less  in- 
flammable than  dry  materials. 


254  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUE. 

On  January  1st,  evil  rumours  were  again  afloat, 
and  I  asked  the  Woon  if  he  were  sure  of  his  position. 
He  replied  that  he  was,  and  had  perfect  confidence 
that  he  could  keep  every  one  in  hand.  However,  I 
went  on  collecting  provisions,  and  while  hoping  for 
the  arrival  of  the  troops  expected  up  the  river,  pre- 
pared for  any  eventuality.  On  January  3rd,  large 
supplies  of  rice  came  in.  The  Issekai,  an  officer 
holding  the  rank  of  major,  came  twice  to  see  me,  and 
all  seemed  well.  Mr.  Morgan  was  with  me  all  day 
helping  with  the  rice  sellers,  but  left  about  4  P.M. 
About  an  hour  afterwards,  he  reappeared  with 
Mr.  Bretto,  saying  that  they  had  been  shut  out  of 
the  stockade,  but  that  Mr.  Ruckstuhl  was  detained 
there.  They  suspected  a  rising  throughout  the 
country,  as  a  rumour  had  just  been  spread  that  a 
Royal  prince  was  about  to  arrive  at  Kendat  with 
3000  men. 

This  was  bad  news,  and  I  begged  Messrs.  Morgan 
and  Bretto  to  stay  the  night  with  me.  There  was 
no  time  to  be  lost ;  I  felt  certain  that  the  country 
had  risen,  and  that  in  a  few  hours  our  communica- 
tions would  be  cut,  so  I  wrote  to  Manipur  asking 
the  Maharajah  to  send  me  1000  men  under  Thangal 
Major  at  once  to  Moreh  Tannah,  to  await  events, 
and  500  to  join  me  at  Kendat,  also  a  good  supply 
of  provisions.  I  telegraphed  also  to  Government 
saying  what  had  happened,  and  that  I  had  taken 
every  precaution,  and  that  they  might  rely  on  my 
doing  all  that  man  could.  I  asked  for  no  help, 
feeling  that,  if,  with  my  present  resources,  I  could 
not  retrieve  my  position,  I  should  soon  be  past  help. 
I  also  wrote  a  few  lines  home,  explaining  matters  in 


EXTREME   DANGER.  255 

case  I  was  killed,  with  a  few  last  words  to  my 
children. 

These  letters  I  sent  off  by  swift  and  trusty  men 
well  armed,  with  orders  to  push  on  with  all  speed. 
Having  done  this,  I  prepared  for  a  life-and-death 
struggle  next  day. 

As  the  morning  broke  and  the  heavy  mist  began  to 
rise  earlier  than  usual,  we  speedily  saw  the  changed 
aspect  of  affairs.  We  had  secured  two  boats  under 
a  guard  the  night  before,  but  all  besides  had  been 
taken  from  our  side  of  the  river.  All  the  people 
had  left  a  neighbouring  village,  but  just  below  us 
we  saw  one  boat  after  another  leaving,  heavily 
laden  with  the  inhabitants  and  their  portable  goods. 
The  opposite  sandbank  too,  was  occupied  in  force 
by  the  Burmese,  who  held  our  former  entrenchment, 
and  one  or  two  small  stockades.  By  this  time  also 
the  country  in  our  rear  had  risen,  so  we  were 
completely  cut  off.  The  opposite  bank  was  crowded 
with  large  boats,  giving  every  opportunity  to  the 
enemy  to  send  a  strong  party  over  to  attack  us  by 
night,  were  he  so  disposed. 

Immediate  action  was  necessary,  if  only  to  save 
the  British  subjects,  and  the  faithful  Woon  who  had 
suffered  in  our  cause.  The  good  old  Minister, 
Bularam  Singh,  quite  lost  his  nerve,  and  begged  and 
implored  me  to  make  terms  and  retreat,  as  the  only 
means  of  saving  ourselves.  I  told  him  that  my  very 
children  and  friends  would  despise  me,  if  I,  for  a 
moment,  contemplated  such  a  course,  and  that  there 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  fight  it  out. 

"  Which  man  should  you  respect  most  ?  "  I  said, 
"  one  who  cringed  at  your  feet,  or  one  who  boldly 


256  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUE. 

struck  you  ? "  "  The  man  who  struck  me,"  he 
replied.  "  Exactly  so,"  I  said ;  "  and  it  is  the  same 
with  the  Burmese.  I  intend  to  strike  a  hard  hlow." 

I  had  an  ultimatum  written  in  Burmese,  demanding 
the  surrender  of  the  Woon,  and  his  officers,  and  of 
all  British  subjects  within  two  hours,  under  pain  of 
my  attacking  the  stockade ;  this  I  did,  to  run  as  little 
risk  of  injury  to  the  captives,  as  possible.  I  had  the 
ultimatum  tied  to  a  bamboo,  and  sent  in  a  boat  to  a 
shallow  part  of  the  river,  and  I  called  to  a  Burmese 
to  take  it.  This  was  done.  I  looked  at  my  watch, 
and  when  the  time  expired,  opened  fire  on  the 
stockade. 

For  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  laid  a  gun.  I 
judged  the  distance  from  the  high  bank  where  we 
stood,  to  the  great  stockade,  to  be  1250  yards,  and 
the  first  shell  went  over  it.  I  lessened  the  range  by 
50  yards,  and  again  fired,  and  this  time  struck  the 
stockade  fair  and  well.  We  saw  and  heard  the 
shell  explode,  and  our  men  raised  a  loud  shout  of 
triumph.  This  little  success  gave  the  Manipuris 
renewed  confidence.  I  lined  our  bank  with  picked 
shots  of  the  4th  B.I.,  and  under  cover  of  these  and 
the  gun,  sent  two  parties  across  in  the  boats,  with 
orders  to  attack  and  destroy  all  the  small  stockades, 
and  to  capture  some  boats  to  convey  more  of  our  men 
across,  and  to  burn  all  the  rest,  so  as  to  prevent  the 
enemy  assuming  the  offensive. 

Mr.  Morgan,  eager  for  the  fray,  went  as  a  volun- 
teer and  assumed  the  natural  position  of  leader.  We 
kept  up  the  fight  all  day.  Shot  after  shot  struck 
the  great  stockade,  all  the  small  ones  were  captured 
and  burned,  the  enemy  driven  from  the  shore  and 


AN   ANXIOUS   NIGHT.  257 

every  boat  within  sight  either  brought  over  to  our 
side,  or  sent  burning  down  the  river. 

Meanwhile,  the  Burmese  had  not  been  entirely 
passive,  they  had  opened  an  artillery  fire  on  us,  and 
one  or  one-and-a-half-pound  shots  began  to  fall  on 
our  side.  Old  Bularara  Singh  walked  up  and  down, 
notwithstanding  this,  with  the  greatest  in  difference, 
having  now  recovered  his  spirits,  and  behaved  very 
well. 

By  sunset,  nothing  remained  to  be  captured  but 
the  great  stockade,  and  many  were  the  volunteers, 
both  Hindoostanis  and  Manipuris  who  begged  to  be 
allowed  to  cross  once  more  and  attack  it.  However, 
I  would  not  consent,  only  two  men,  Messrs.  Morgan 
and  Bretto,  knew  all  the  turns  and  windings  of  the 
place,  arid  one  false  move  might  convert  our  success 
into  a  disaster.  All  the  same,  I  felt  terribly  anxious  as 
to  the  fate  of  the  Woon  and  of  the  British  subjects. 

I  went  to  my  hut  in  the  evening,  feeling  that  we 
had  done  all  we  could.  As  I  passed  through  the 
stockade,  I  was  surprised  to  see  the  clever  way  in 
which  the  coolies  remaining  with  us  had  strengthened 
it,  by  digging  deep  trenches  sufficient  to  afford  a  man 
perfect  protection  against  rifle  fire,  even  without  the 
stockade. 

I  rose  early  on  January  5th,  after  an  anxious 
night,  having  given  orders  for  a  party  to  be  ready 
to  cross  the  river  with  me,  to  attack  the  great 
stockade  ;  but,  just  as  I  left  my  hut  to  make  a  start, 
I  was  met  by  Mr.  Ruckstuhl  with  irons  on  his 
ankles — he  had  got  rid  of  the  connecting  bars — who 
told  me  that  it  had  been  evacuated.  The  facts  I 
learned  were  as  follows. 

s 


258  MY   EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUE. 

On  the  evening  of  January  3rd,  incited  by  the 
near  approach  of  three  thousand  men  and  the 
promised  support  of  the  Tsawbwas  of  Thourigdoot, 
Wuntha,  Kubo,  and  six  other  districts,  the  bad  spirits 
in  the  town  rose  against  the  Woon,  and  put  him  and 
his  family  and  chief  officials,  with  Mr.  Ruckstuhl,  in 
irons.  It  was  only  by  a  mistake  that  Messrs.  Morgan 
and  Bretto  were  shut  out  of  the  stockade  and  not 
arrested. 

When  my  ultimatum  arrived,  the  Burmese  laughed 
at  the  idea  of  my  doing  anything,  and  when  our  fire 
opened  on  them  they  were  just  about  to  crucify  the 
Woon  and  Ruckstuhl.  When,  however,  our  attack 
began  to  make  an  impression  on  them,  and  shells 
burst  in  the  stockade,  especially  one  in  a  room  where 
the  chief  men  were  deliberating,  they  retreated, 
leaving  their  prisoners.  Mr.  Ruckstuhl  had  hidden 
under  a  hedge,  and  the  Woon  and  his  family  were 
taking  refuge  in  a  Phoongye's  house.  This  was 
good  news  and  an  immense  relief  to  every  one ;  we 
felt  we  had  done  our  work. 

I  immediately  took  a  party  across  the  river  and 
rescued  the  Woon,  and  took  possession  of  the  huge 
stockade,  which  would  have  cost  us  many  a  life  to 
capture,  had  it  been  well  defended.  We  took  six- 
teen guns  and  a  large  number  of  wall  pieces,  all  said 
to  have  been  wrested  from  Manipur  in  former  days. 

The  Woon's  house  was  apparently  intact,  but 
empty,  and  the  town  was  deserted.  In  a  house  we 
found  a  hen  on  a  brood  of  chickens,  unmoved  appa- 
rently by  all  the  firing  and  commotion.  I  made 
over  the  Woon's  house  to  him  again,  and  I  esta- 
blished a  Manipuri  guard  for  his  protection.  With 


CAPTUEE   OF   KENDAT.  259 

reference  to  the  guns,  I  should  say  that  I  did  not 
take  them  from  the  stockade  on  my  first  arrival  at 
Kendat,  not  wishing  in  any  way  to  lower  the  pres- 
tige of  the  Woon  who  had  done  us  such  good  service, 
and  who  professed  himself  quite  able  to  account  for 
them,  and  to  keep  the  people  in  order.  As  events 
proved,  we  were  quite  able  to  take  them  when 
necessary. 

Just  as  we  had  finished  our  work,  and  Mr.  Morgan 
and  I  were  taking  some  food  in  the  afternoon,  two 
steamers  came  in  sight  far  down  the  Chindwin. 
These  proved  to  be  the  party  sent  to  rescue  the 
British  subjects  at  Kendat,  under  Major  Campbell, 
23rd  Madras  Infantry  ;  and  consisted  of  a  company 
of  the  Hampshire  Regiment  and  some  blue  jackets, 
and  some  of  the  23rd  Madras  Infantry,  and  great 
was  their  disappointment  to  find  that  the  work  had 
been  done  before  they  arrived.  However,  had  we 
waited  for  them,  there  would  have  been  no  one  to 
rescue  on  their  arrival. 

To  my  intense  surprise,  I  heard  that  Kendat  was  to 
be  abandoned,  but  no  arrangements  had  been  made 
for  carrying  away  the  Native  British  subjects. 
Mr.  Morgan  would  not  abandon  these  and  the  valu- 
able property  of  the  Bombay -Burmah  Corporation, 
and  elected  together  with  Mr.  Bretto  to  stay  with 
me.  I  strongly  urged  Mr.  Ruckstuhl  (whose  brother, 
one  of  the  refugees  from  Mengin,  had  been  brought 
up  by  Major  Campbell)  to  leave  for  Rangoon  with 
the  steamers,  as  I  thought,  after  twice  narrowly 
escaping  a  violent  death,  he  had  better  run  no  more 
risks.  He  took  my  advice.  The  steamers  left  on 
January  8th. 

s  2 


260  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MAN1PUR. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Mischief  done  by  departure  of  steamers — Determine  to  establish  the  \Voon 
at  Tamu — The  Country  quieting  down — Recovery  of  mails — Letter 
from  the  Viceroy — Arrive  at  Manipur — Bad  news — I  return  to 
Tamu — Night  march  to  Pot-tha — An  engagement — Wounded — 
Return  to  Manipur — Farewell — Leave  for  England. 

WE  had  gained  immense  prestige  by  the  vigorous 
way  in  which  we  had  put  down  the  revolt,  and  the 
people  from  the  neighbouring  country  began  to 
come  in  and  make  their  submission,  but  the  de- 
parture of  the  steamers  was  a  great  blow  to  it.  Of 
course,  the  natives  attributed  it  to  fear.  Had  they 
stayed,  all  trouble  would  have  been  at  an  end,  and 
the  country  would  have  quietly  settled  down.  As 
it  was,  this  unfortunate  retreat  again  upset  the  minds 
of  all. 

The  Chindwin,  and  the  route  to  it  through 
Manipur,  had  not  been  considered  when  the 
campaign  was  decided  on.  No  part  of  a  country 
that  it  is  intended  to  annex  can  with  safety  be 
neglected,  and  the  Chindwin  valley  was  a  very 
important  part  of  Burmah. 

As  I  have  said  before,  a  properly  organised 
Manipur  Levy  would  have  solved  all  difficulties  at 
the  outbreak  of  war ;  failing  that,  a  force  specially 
devoted  to  the  Chindwin  valley,  and  entering 
through  Manipur,  and  aided  by  local  knowledge 
acquired  during  many  years  on  that  frontier,  might 
have  occupied  the  province  of  Kendat  before  any 


OFFICIAL   NEGLECT.  261 

time  had  been  given  for  the  spread  of  lawlessness. 
It  is  almost  incredible  that,  considering  the  part 
taken  by  Manipur,  and  troops  moving  through 
Manipur  during  the  war  of  1885-6,  showing  the 
immense  facilities  offered  by  that  route,  that  no 
inquiry  whatever  was  made  regarding  it  before  the 
outbreak  of  hostilities. 

I  saw  plainly  that  without  the  certainty  of  troops 
and  one  steamer  at  least  arriving  to  reinforce  us,  it 
would  be  unwise  to  attempt  to  hold  Kendat  so  far 
from  our  base  at  Manipur,  therefore  I  made  prepara- 
tions for  escorting  all  British  subjects  and  property 
to  Tamu,  within  the  Woon's  jurisdiction,  advising 
the  latter  to  establish  himself  there  for  the  present, 
and  from  that  point  gradually  reconsolidate  his 
authority.  He  greatly  approved  of  the  suggestion, 
and  I  made  arrangements  with  a  view  to  carrying  it 
into  effect. 

It  was  not  till  the  10th  of  January  that  any  post 
arrived  from  Manipur.  The  Kubo  valley  had 
risen,  it  was  said,  in  obedience  to  orders  received 
from  the  Kule  Tsawbwa  and  a  man  called  the  Lay 
Kahiyine  Oke,  and  it  was  reported  that  we  had 
been  annihilated ;  but  the  sight  of  all  the  captured 
guns,  which  I  at  once  sent  to  Manipur,  told  the 
people  a  different  tale,  and  they  soon  subsided  and 
returned  to  their  allegiance.  I  sent  out  a  party  to 
attack  and  destroy  the  house  of  a  hostile  chief,  east 
of  the  Chindwiri,  and  it  was  successfully  accomplished. 

Several  letter  bags  which  had  been  stolen  were 
now  given  up,  and  I  issued  proclamations  to  all  the 
neighbouring  chiefs  calling  on  them  to  remain 
quiet,  and  keep  their  people  in  order. 


262  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

Two  hundred  of  the  troops  I  had  sent  for  from 
Manipur,  arrived  at  Kendat,  and  300  more  I 
ordered  to  be  stationed  at  different  points  on  the 
road.  The  1000  men  under  Thangal  Major  were 
directed  by  me  to  return  to  Manipur.  Before 
leaving  Kendat,  I  sent  on  the  Woon,  with  his  family 
and  250  native  British  subjects,  en  route  to  Tamu, 
with  a  strong  escort.  The  road  had  been  much 
improved  during  my  occupation  of  Kendat,  and  was 
now  passable  for  lightly  laden  elephants. 

I  left  some  Burmese  officials  at  Kendat  with 
orders  to  report  regularly  to  the  Woon,  and  collect 
taxes  due,  and  having  made  all  arrangements  that  I 
could  for  the  peace  of  the  country,  I  quitted  it,  with 
the  remaining  portion  of  my  force,  on  January  14th, 
encamping  at  a  place  called  Mejong.  We  reached 
Tainu  on  the  17th,  where  the  Woon  was  well 
received. 

I  had  written  to  the  Thoungdoot  (Sumjok) 
Tsawbwa,  asking  him  to  come  and  see  me,  but  he 
was  nervous,  and  sent  his  Minister  instead.  The 
man  arrived  on  the  19th,  with  a  very  civil  letter 
from  the  Tsawbwa,  making  his  submission.  I 
explained  to  him  that  I  should  hold  his  master 
responsible  for  the  good  behaviour  of  his  people,  and 
sent  him  to  pay  his  respects  to  the  Woon,  which  he 
did.  About  this  time  I  received  some  very  compli- 
mentary telegrams  from  Government,  thanking  me 
for  what  I  had  done ;  these  being  followed  by  an 
autograph  letter  from  the  Viceroy,  Lord  Dufferin. 

Being  completely  worn  out  with  the  work  and 
anxiety  I  had  gone  through,  so  much  so,  that  I  could 
not  sleep  without  a  dose  of  bromide  of  potassium, 


A  LULL  IN  THE   STORM.  263 

I  set  off  for  Manipur,  to  get  a  little  rest,  on  the  20th 
of  January,  and  reached  it,  by  forced  marches,  on 
the  22nd.  Mr.  Morgan  came  with  me,  and  my 
escort  followed  two  days  after.  The  men  had  kept 
their  promise,  and  not  one  man  had  "  gone  sick  "  for 
a  day,  arid  they  had  always  been  ready  for  work ; 
often,  since  the  outbreak  on  the  3rd  of  January, 
living  for  days  on  rice  fresh  cut  from  the  enemy's 
fields  by  the  Manipuris. 

I  left  a  strong  guard  of  Manipuris  in  a  stockade  at 
Tamu  as  a  help  to  the  Woon,  and  let  the  Minister 
Bularam  Singh  and  all  the  rest  of  the  party  return 
with  me. 

Before  leaving  Tamu,  I  handed  over  one  or  two 
men,  supposed  to  be  rebels,  to  the  Woon,  and  gave 
him  authority  to  execute  them,  should  he  consider  it 
necessary,  as  an  example,  saying,  however,  that  he 
must,  in  that  case  shoot,  hang,  or  decapitate,  as  we 
could  not  allow  painful  modes  of  putting  to  death. 

I  found,  on  arrival  at  Manipur,  that  another 
detachment  of  the  4th  B.I.  had  arrived,  and  I  very 
soon  found  use  for  them. 

I  had  hoped  to  have  had  some  much-needed  rest, 
but  on  the  24th  I  received  a  letter  from  the  Woon 
telling  me  that  two  of  the  leading  rebels  in  the 
outbreak  of  the  3rd,  who  had  fled  towards  Wuntho, 
had  returned,  and  were  leading  about  bands  of 
brigands.  I  heard  from  another  source  that  the  men 
I  had  delivered  into  his  hands  had  been  released  on 
paying  heavy  fines,  arid  had  joined  the  rebel  leaders. 
The  Woon  had  an  ample  force  at  his  disposal,  but,  as 
I  saw  that  another  storm  was  brewing,  I  sent  off  the 
new  detachment  of  the  4th,  towards  Tamu,  on  the 


264  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

26th,  and  followed  myself  (Mr.  Morgan  having 
preceded  me)  on  the  28th  ;  and  on  the  30th  we 
marched  into  Tamu  together. 

I  met  the  poor  old  Woon  ten  miles  within  the 
Manipur  frontier ;  he  had  evidently  lost  his  nerve 
and  had  fled,  the  ill-treatment  he  had  undergone, 
and  the  narrow  escape  from  crucifixion,  were  too 
much  for  him.  I  at  once  sent  him  on  to  Manipur, 
with  orders  that  he  should  be  my  guest,  and 
marched  on. 

As  we  crossed  the  frontier,  the  Burmese  left  the 
jungles  where  they  had  hidden  from  the  dreaded 
dacoits,  and  returned  with  us  to  their  villages.  Tamu 
was  quiet,  the  Manipuri  guard  had  stood  firm  at 
their  posts,  and  held  the  stockade  intact,  a  work 
Manipuris  are  admirably  fitted  for,  and  thoroughly 
to  be  trusted  with.  My  arrival  seemed  to  quiet 
down  the  valley  for  many  miles,  indeed  all  the 
inhabitants  for  miles  round  were  by  the  next  day 
pursuing  their  ordinary  avocations,  and  the  only  fear 
was  from  the  dacoits. 

On  January  31st,  at  about  6  P.M.,  I  received  a 
report  that  a  party  of  the  enemy  had  hoisted  the 
white  flag  (the  Burmese  Royal  Standard),  and  taken 
up  their  quarters  at  Pot-tha,  a  disaffected  village 
twenty  miles  from  Tamu.  This  was  an  opportunity 
not  to  be  lost,  and  I  prepared  to  strike  a  decisive 
blow.  We  left  Tarnu  about  midnight,  the  force  consist- 
ing of  myself  and  Mr.  Morgan,  fifty  of  the  4thB.I., 
seventy  Manipuris,  and  fifty  Kuki  irregulars.  We  had 
to  march  in  single  file  through  the  forest,  carrying 
torches  to  light  us,  and  a  most  picturesque  sight  it 
was,  the  long  line  winding  in  and  out  under  the  tall 


SKIRMISH   WITH   BURMESE.  265 

trees,  which  the  blaze  of  the  torches  lighted  up, 
producing  a  very  weird  effect.  We  took  with  us 
guides  from  Tamu,  and  marched  in  deep  silence,  every 
now  and  then  passing  a  village  opening,  though  we 
generally  avoided  them,  if  possible. 

At  last,  just  after  daybreak,  we  heard  the  sound  of 
a  musket  shot ;  our  Shan  guides  said  :  "  This  is  the 
place,"  and  instantly  evaporated.  I  can  use  no  other 
term ;  I  saw  them  one  moment,  the  next  they  had 
gone,  where  I  know  not.  We  went  on,  and  after  a 
hundred  yards,  passed  fortifications  just  evacuated, 
and  soon  after  entered  the  village,  the  enemy  retiring 
before  us  without  firing  a  shot ;  we  rushed  on,  and 
searched  the  houses.  I  saw  the  white  standard 
planted  outside  a  large  house  on  a  platform  ;  I  ran 
up  and  seized  it,  close  by  was  a  tree  called  in  Bengali, 
"  Poppeya,"  the  papaw,  I  believe,  of  the  West  Indies, 
with  a  soft  trunk.  A  minute  after,  while  I  was 
looking  about  to  see  if  I  could  observe  any  of  the 
enemy,  a  volley  was  fired,  evidently  intended  for  me, 
the  royal  standard  in  my  hand  making  me  a  con- 
spicuous mark.  I  was  not  struck  (probably  just  at 
the  moment  I  moved),  but  the  tree  was,  and  fell,  cut 
in  two  by  at  least  twenty  musket  balls. 

I  then  saw  some  of  the  enemy  strongly  posted, 
under  a  house,  built  like  all  in  those  parts  on  strong 
posts,  affording  excellent  cover.  I  sprang  down  from 
the  platform,  calling  to  my  scattered  men  to  follow. 
One  man  was  ahead  of  me,  and  was  shot  down  mor- 
tally wounded ;  another  minute,  and  I  myself  was 
struck  by  a  shot  on  the  left  temple,  and  almost  stunned. 
I  was  able  to  rise,  but  with  the  blood  streaming  down, 
not  fit  to  pursue.  I  called  to  Mr.  Morgan  and  asked 


266  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

him  to  head  a  party  of  the  4th  B.I.  and  clear  the 
village,  which  was  done  with  great  gallantry,  the 
men,  when  they  returned,  greatly  applauding  Mr. 
Morgan's  courage  and  dash.  Having  driven  out  the 
enemy  who,  we  subsequently  ascertained,  lost  seven 
killed  and  twenty-five  wounded,  we  set  fire  to  the 
village  and  10,000  maunds  of  rice  stored  there,  i.e., 
about  360  tons,  which,  of  course,  we  could  not  carry 
away,  and  marched  back  to  Tamu  which  we  reached 
about  nightfall  carrying  our  wounded  with  us. 
Besides  myself,  we  had  one  mortally  wounded,  one 
severely  and  one  slightly.  I  was  able  to  march  back. 
We  took  three  prisoners  and  heard  that  the  enemy, 
who  did  not  stop  till  he  had  crossed  the  Chiridwin, 
had  a  force  of  400  to  500  men  engaged,  commanded 
by  Boh  Moung  Sen  way  Le. 

On  February  6th,  all  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 
Kubo  valley  came  in  and  made  their  formal  sub- 
mission to  me,  promising  to  remain  quiet  and  obey 
the  orders  of  the  Tarnu  Myo  Thugee,  whom  I  ap- 
pointed to  administer  the  valley  till  further  orders. 
Next  day,  I  made  them  all  go  to  the  Pagoda,  and 
swear  allegiance  to  the  British  Government,  the  oath 
being  most  solemnly  administered  by  the  Phoongyees. 
I  gave  definite  instructions  to  all,  and  urged  them 
to  keep  the  peace,  and  buy,  sell  and  cultivate  as 
usual. 

I  proclaimed  the  passes  into  Manipur  open  to 
traders,  which  gave  great  satisfaction  to  all,  and 
having  satisfied  myself  that  everything  was  quiet  I 
set  out  for  Manipur  to  consult  Dr.  Eteson,  the 
Deputy  Surgeon-General,  who  was  passing  through, 
about  my  wound.  I  arrived  by  forced  marches  on 


THE   AUTHOR  WOUNDED.  267 

February  9th,  and  found  that  the  sepoy  mortally 
wounded  on  February  1st,  had  died  on  the  8th. 

Dr.  Eteson  urged  me  to  go  to  England  on  sick 
leave,  and  I  very  reluctantly  determined  to  follow 
his  advice.  But,  before  leaving,  I  had  the  satisfac- 
tion of  seeing  the  whole  of  the  Kubo  valley  in  a 
state  of  profound  peace  for  a  month  and  a  half. 
Provisions  were  no  longer  a  difficulty.  They  were 
freely  brought  in,  and  the  little  luxuries  that  Hin- 
doostani  troops  require  over  and  above  what  can  be 
bought  on  the  spot,  were  taken  down  by  traders.  So 
great  was  the  energy  of  the  latter,  that  2000  buffaloes 
were  exported  through  Manipur  to  Cachar  during 
this  short  period,  and  when  I  finally  bade  adieu  to 
my  friends  at  Tamu,  Mr.  Morgan  and  I  both 
expected  that  war  was  at  an  end,  and  that  perfect 
peace  would  prevail.  It  was  not  our  fault  that  it 
did  not. 

Let  me  here  offer  a  tribute  to  one  who  stood  by 
me  nobly  in  the  hour  of  need,  but  who,  unfortunately, 
died  of  cholera  at  Kule,  after  his  return  from  well- 
earned  leave  in  England.  Morgan  was  a  thoroughly 
good  fellow  all  round,  a  devoted  servant  of  the 
Bombay-Burmah  Corporation,  and  one  who  put  their 
affairs  before  everything.  As  gentle  and  kind  as 
he  was  brave,  he  was  a  great  favourite  with  the 
Burmese,  and  had  evidently  much  influence  with 
them.  He  was  always  in  favour  of  mild  measures, 
unless  strong  ones  appeared  absolutely  necessary. 

While  still  in  Burmah,  I  had  sent  in  my  despatches 
to  General  Sir  H.  Prendergast,  K.C.B.,  who  com- 
manded the  army  of  invasion,  in  which  I  strongly 
commended  to  his  notice  the  admirable  services  of 


268  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

my  escort,  mentioning  specially  several'  men  whom 
I  thought  particularly  deserving  of  it,  though  all 
had  done  so  well,  and  shown  such  devotion  to  duty 
and  soldier-like  spirit,  that  it  was  a  difficult  task  to 
select  any  one  in  particular.  General  Prendergast 
forwarded  my  recommendation  to  the  Commander-in- 
Chief,  and  it  was  a  great  satisfaction  to  me  when  I 
heard  afterwards  that  Baluk  Rani  Chowby,  then 
Subadar  Major  of  his  Regiment,  had  received  the 
Order  of  British  India,  with  the  title  of  "  Bahadur," 
and  that  other  decorations  and  promotions  had  been 
bestowed.  The  detachment  of  the  gallant  4th  Bengal 
Infantry,  took  with  them,  as  trophies  to  their 
regiment,  a  standard  they  had  captured,  and  also  one 
of  the  sixteen  guns  taken  at  Kendat. 

I  left  the  old  Woon  at  Manipur,  having  strongly 
recommended  him  to  the  favour  of  Government. 
He  stood  by  our  people  in  a  dark  hour,  and  saved 
them  from  torture  and  death.  He  was  of  high 
family,  and  had  fought  against  us  in  1852.  He  had 
the  air  of  a  thorough  gentleman,  and  was,  with  all 
his  family,  most  amiable  in  conversation  and  de- 
meanour. 

Before  leaving,  I  paid  one  last  visit  to  Kang-joop- 
kool  and  saw  my  child's  grave,*  and  the  peaceful 

*  "The  Senaputtee  seemed  determined  to  wipe  away  all  signs  of 
British  connection  with  the  State.  Not  only  were  the  charred  remains 
of  the  Residency  still  further  demolished,  but  every  building  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  the  very  walls  of  the  compound  and  garden  were 
levelled,  and  the  graves  of  British  officers  were  desecrated.  The  Kang-joop- 
kool  Sanatorium,  twelve  miles  from  the  capital,  built  by  Sir  J.  Johnstone, 
was  burnt,  and  his  child's  grave  dug  up." — Times'  telegram,  May  3, 
1891.— ED. 

It  appears  by  the  official  correspondence  that  the  Senaputtee  sent  seven 
Manipur  sepahis  to  open  the  child's  grave,  and  scatter  the  remains,  out  of 


ABTHUR  JOHXSTOXE'S  GKAVE.         [^«?«  208. 


SYMPATHETIC   FAEBWELL.  269 

scenery  and  lovely  views  over  the  hills  and  the 
broad  valley,  thinking  of  the  past  and  its  many 
memories  connected  with  the  place.  I  paid  rny  last 
visit  to  the  Rajah,  when  I  told  him  that  I  had 
strongly  urged  the  restoration  to  him  of  his  old 
possession,  the  Kubo  valley.  I  visited  all  the 
familiar  spots  round  the  capital.  I  said  good-bye 
to  old  Thangal,  Bularam  Singh,  and  all  my  old 
followers,  and,  on  the  19th  of  March,  bade  adieu  to 
Manipur,  which  I  felt  I  had  raised  out  of  the  mire 
of  a  bad  reputation. 

I  left  it  as  it  had  been  of  yore,  a  faithful  and 
devoted,  though  humble,  ally  of  the  British  Govern- 
ment to  whom  it  had  done  transcendent  service. 
Alas  !  little  did  I  think  of  the  fate  that  would  befall 
it  before  a  few  short  years  had  passed  by. 

My  escort  turned  out  to  salute  me  as  I  left  the 
Residency  gate,  and  I  gave  them  an  address,  thanking 
them  for  their  services.  Then  the  Subadar  Baluk 
Ram  Chowby  insisted  on  their  accompanying  me  for 
some  distance.  When  time  for  them  to  return,  he 
halted  his  party,  drew  them  in  line  by  the  side  of 
the  road,  and  presented  arms,  and  as  they  did  it  they 
gave  a  loud  shout  of  "  Colonel  Sahib  Bahadur  ke 
jye,"  i.e.  "  Yive  Monsieur  le  Colonel  Victorieux ; " 
we  have  no  equivalent  for  it  in  English.  My  heart 
was  too  heavy  to  say  much ;  I  said  a  few  words,  and 
we  parted. 

As  I  crossed  the  summit  of  the  Lai-metol  range  I 

spite  to  Sir  J.  Johnstone,  whom  he  knew  had  wished  him  to  be  banished, 
aud  who  (on  account  of  the  Seiiaputtee's  exceptionally  bad  character) 
would  never  admit  him  into  the  Residency.  For  this  act  the  British 
military  authorities  had  the  sepahis  flogged.  —  Nos.  1-11,  East  India 
(Manipur)  Blue  Books. — En. 


270  MY   EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

gave   a   last   look   at   the   valley,   and   saw   it    no 
more. 

I  passed  through  Shillong,  where  I  was  hospitably 
entertained  by  the  Chief  Commissioner,  Mr.  Ward, 
and  on  reaching  Calcutta  received  a  command  to 
visit  Lord  Duiferin  at  Benares.  He  received  me 
very  kindly,  arid  under  his  roof  I  spent  a  most  enjoy- 
able day.  I  left  Bombay  on  the  9th  of  April,  and 
reached  home  on  the  28th,  thus  practically  finishing 
my  active  Indian  career,  after  nearly  twenty-eight 
years'  service. 


(     271     ) 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

CONCLUSION. 

The  Events  of  1890  and  1891. 

WHEX  I  first  began  this  book  it  was  my  intention  to 
have  given  a  connected  account  of  the  Palace  Revo- 
lution of  September  1890,  and  that  of  1891,  against 
the  British  Government.  Being  probably  the  only 
living  person  in  full  possession  of  the  whole  facts 
connected  with  the  startling  events  that  then  took 
place,  and  the  circumstances  that  led  up  to  them, 
and  having,  moreover,  a  strong  conviction  that  it  is 
best  for  all  parties  that  the  truth  should  be  known, 
I  felt  that  a  fair  and  impartial  statement  could  do 
no  harm,  and  might  act  as  a  warning.  Further 
reflection  has  led  me  to  alter  my  determination,  and 
to  ask  myself  the  question,  "  Cui  bono  ? "  The 
Government  of  India  has  shown  no  desire  to  make 
more  disclosures  than  necessary,  and  it  is  not  for 
me,  a  loyal  old  servant,  to  lift  the  veil. 

"  Let  the  dead  past  bury  its  dead." 

However  much,  therefore,  1  may  wish  to  see  the 
right  horse  saddled,  I  shall  for  the  present,  at  any 
rate,  avoid  criticism  as  far  as  possible,  arid  confine 
myself  to  a  few  general  remarks. 


272  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

Nothing  that  I  can  say  will  undo  the  past,  and  all 
that  remains  is  to  hope  for  the  future. 

After  I  left  Manipur  fresh  disturbances  broke  out 
in  the  Kubo  valley,  where  I  had  left  all  peaceful, 
prosperous,  and  contented,  and  a  considerable  strain 
was  put  on  the  resources  of  Manipur.  Had  I  been 
ordered  to  return  I  would  gladly  have  done  so,  but 
niy  health  was  too  bad  to  make  it  advisable  for  me 
to  volunteer  my  services.*  I  regret  that  I  did  not, 
as  I  might  in  that  case  have  again  urged  the  claims 
of  Manipur  to  have  the  Kubo  valley  restored  to  her, 
as  she  had  a  right  to  expect  that  it  would  be  ; 
substantial  hopes  having  been  on  at  least  one 
occasion  held  out  to  her,  and  her  many  good  services 
and  constant  loyalty  entitling  her  to  consideration. 

However,  it  was  not  to  be  ;  and  in  the  summer  of 
1886  another  misfortune  befell  her,  in  the  death  of 
Maharajah  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh.  Perhaps,  like 
his  father,  G-humbeer  Singh,  he  was  happy  in  the 
hour  of  his  death,  as  he  did  not  live  to  see  the 
disgrace  of  his  country,  and  the  ingratitude  of  our 
Government  to  his  family. 

Now  was  the  grand  opportunity  for  the  Govern- 
ment and  an  able  Political  Agent  to  step  in  arid 
make  the  many  needful  reforms,  and  introduce 
necessary  changes,  and  instil  a  more  modern  spirit 
in  keeping  with  the  times,  into  the  institutions  of 
the  country.  Did  we  take  advantage  of  it?  Of 
course  we  did  not ;  but,  true  to  our  happy-go-lucky 

*  "  Oh !  for  a  moment  of  Colonel  Johnstone's  presence  at  such  a  crisis," 
wrote  a  British  official  from  Manipur,  to  the  Pioneer,  in  1891.  "  One 
strong  word  with  the  ominous  raising  of  the  forefinger,  would  have 
paralyzed  the  treacherous  rebel  Koireng  (Senaputtee)  from  perpetrating 
this  outrage."— ED. 


LOST  OPPORTUNITY.  273 

traditions,  let  one  precious  opportunity  after  another 
pass  by  unheeded.  Year  after  year  during  my 
period  of  office  had  I  struggled  hard,  and  carried  on 
a  never-ending  fight  for  influence  and  prestige,  with 
the  strong  and  capable  old  Chandra  Kirtee  Singh, 
gaining  ground  steadily ;  but  realising  that,  while  I 
worked,  the  full  advantage  would  be  reaped  by  that 
one  of  my  successors  who  might  chance  to  be  in 
office  when  my  old  friend  closed  his  eventful  life. 
At  such  a  time,  in  addition  to  the  result  of  my 
labours,  a  weaker  occupant  of  the  throne  would 
afford  many  opportunities  such  as  were  not  vouch- 
safed to  me,  and  now  the  time  had  arrived  when  we 
might  have  worked  unimpeded  for  the  good  of  all 
classes.  > 

Soor  Chandra  Singh,  the  former  Jubraj,  or  heir 
apparent,  succeeded  his  father,  a  good,  amiable  man, 
with  plenty  of  ability,  but  very  weak.  He  was 
loyal  to  the  British  Government,  and  had  on  several 
occasions  given  strong  proof  of  it,  and  he  was  much 
respected  by  his  own  people.  Had  he  been  taken  in 
hand  properly  all  would  have  been  well,  but  the 
Government  of  India  seems  never  to  have  realised 
that  excessive  care  and  caution  were  necessary. 
The  records  of  the  past  plainly  showed  that  the 
appointment  of  a  Political  Agent  was  always  a 
difficult  one  to  fill  satisfactorily,  but  no  pains  seem 
to  have  been  at  any  time  taken  to  find  a  suitable 
man;  if  one  happened  to  be  appointed,  it  was  a 
matter  of  chance,  and  the  post  seems  generally  to 
have  been  put  up  to  a  kind  of  Dutch  auction.  On 
one  occasion  I  believe  that  an  officer,  who  was  at 
the  time  doing  well,  and  liked  the  place,  was  taken 

T 


274  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUE. 

away,  and  another,  who  did  not  wish  to  go,  sent  up, 
to  die  within  a  month  of  a  long-standing  complaint. 
For  all  this,  of  course  the  Foreign  Office  must  be 
held  responsible,  as  it  had  a  long  traditional  know- 
ledge of  Manipur;  and  though  its  powers  were 
delegated  to  the  Chief  Commissioner  of  Assam,  it 
should  have  ascertained  that  that  officer  was  capable 
of  making  a  good  selection,  and  had  an  officer  under 
him  fit  for  the  appointment.  The  work  may  not  have 
been  of  a  nature  requiring  the  very  highest  class  of 
intellect,  but  it  certainly  did  require  a  rather  rare 
combination  of  qualities,  together  with  one  indispen- 
sable to  make  a  good  officer,  namely,  a  real  love  for 
the  work,  the  country,  and  the  people.  My  imme- 
diate successor  had  these  latter  qualities,  but  he  died 
of  wounds  received  within  six  weeks  of  my  leaving.* 
It  is  to  be  regretted,  also,  that  the  Government  of 
India  acts  so  much  on  the  principle  that  the  private 
claims  of  some  of  its  servants  should  be  considered 
before  the  claims  of  the  State  generally,  and  the 
people  over  whom  they  are  put,  in  particular.  It 
seems  to  be  thought  that  the  great  object,  in  many 
cases,  is  to  secure  a  certain  amount  of  pay  to  an 
individual,  quite  irrespective  of  his  qualifications, 
rather  than  to  seek  out  an  officer  in  every  way 
competent  to  administer  a  great  province,  and  satisfy 
the  requirements  of  its  people.  I  say  this  especially 
with  reference  to  Assam.  Few  provinces  of  India 
require  more  special  qualities  in  its  ruler,  containing, 
as  it  does,  many  races  of  different  grades  of  civilisa- 
tion ;  the  situation  being  further  complicated  by  the 

*  Major  Trotter.    He  received  wounds  from  an  ambuscade,  and  died 
of  their  effects,  July,  1886.— ED. 


MOKE  CAKE  REQUIRED.  275 

presence  of  a  large  European  population  of  tea- 
planters.  These,  by  their  energy  and  the  judicious 
application  of  a  large  amount  of  capital,  have  raised 
it  to  a  great  pitch  of  prosperity,  and  they  naturally 
require  to  be  dealt  with  in  a  different  way  to  their 
less  civilised  native  fellow-subjects. 

An  officer  may  be  an  admirable  accountant,  or 
very  well  able  to  decide  between  two  litigants,  or, 
may  be,  to  look  after  stamps  and  stationery ;  but 
without  special  administrative  experience,  or  those 
abilities  which  enable  a  genius  to  grasp  any  subject 
he  takes  up,  he  cannot  be  considered  fit  to  be  trusted 
with  the  government  of  a  great  and  flourishing 
province.  His  claims  as  regards  pay  should  not  be 
allowed  to  weigh  at  all  with  the  Government  of 
India;  it  is  unjust  to  the  people,  and  would  be 
cheaper  to  give  an  enhanced  pension  than  ruin  a 
province.  Yet  it  cannot  be  denied  that  the  con- 
siderations I  have  referred  to,  do  prevail,  and  that 
the  Manipur  disaster  was,  in  a  great  measure,  due  to 
the  system,  and  that  with  proper  care  it  could  never 
have  happened. 

When  I  was  in  Manipur  no  European  could  enter 
the  state  without  obtaining  the  permission  of  the 
Durbar  through  the  Political  Agent,  and  the  Maha- 
rajah, very  wisely,  did  his  utmost  to  discourage  such 
visitors,  unless  they  were  friends  of  the  latter. 
Orchid  collectors,  and  such  like,  were  rigorously 
excluded,  wisely,  again  I  say,  considering  the  havoc 
wrought  by  selfish  traders  with  these  lovely  denizens 
of  the  forests  of  Manipur  and  Burmah,  and  when  the 
Burmese  war  broke  out,  very  few  were  those  of  our 
countrymen  who  had  visited  the  interesting  little 

T  2 


276  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

state.  As  for  myself  I  quite  sympathised  with  the 
Maharajah  and  I  even  said  a  word  on  behalf  of  the 
Sungai  (swamp  deer)  peculiar  to  Manipur  and 
Burmah,  and  advised  him  to  preserve  it  strictly.  I 
fear  it  must  be  extinct  in  Manipur  by  this  time. 
The  Burmese  war  changed  all  this ;  troops  poured 
through  the  country,  and  European  officers  were 
constantly  passing  to  and  fro,  much  to  the  annoyance 
of  the  Durbar.  Of  course,  a  stay-at-home  Englishman 
will  hardly  understand  this,  but  to  anyone  knowing 
natives  of  India  well,  it  is  self-evident,  a  European 
cannot  go  through  a  state  like  Manipur  where  sus- 
picion reigns  rampant,  and  where  people  are  wedded 
to  their  own  peculiar  ways,  without  causing  a  great 
deal  of  trouble.  All  sorts  of  things  have  to  be  pro- 
vided for  him,  and  though  he  pays  liberally,  some 
one  suffers.  The  presence  of  one  or  two  Europeans 
constantly  moving  about  would  no  doubt  in  itself  be 
a  source  of  annoyance  to  the  high  officials  of  Manipur, 
who  would  always  suspect  them  of  making  enquiries 
with  a  view  to  an  unfavourable  report  to  Government. 
All  natives  of  India  are  suspicious,  and  this  remark 
applies  with  tenfold  force  to  Manipuris. 

It  cannot,  I  fear,  be  denied,  that  as  a  race  we  are 
a  little  careless  of  the  feelings  of  others.  It  is  pos- 
sibly due  in  a  great  measure  to  our  insularity  ;  but, 
whatever  be  the  cause,  it  is  an  undesirable  quality  to 
possess.  With  a  regiment  of  Native  Infantry  sta- 
tioned at  Langthabal  to  support  our  authority,  our 
prestige  ought  to  have  rapidly  increased  ;  apparently 
the  reverse  was  the  case,  and  from  time  to  time  inci- 
dents occurred,  which  indicated  how  events  were 
drifting.  On  one  occasion  some  sepoys  of  the  Poli- 


THE  SENAPUTTEE.  277 

tical  Agent's  escort  were  hustled  and  beaten  by  some 
Manipuris  at  a  public  festival,  and  on  another  the 
man  carrying  the  Government  mail  bag  between 
Imphal  and  Langthabal,  was  stopped  and  robbed  of 
the  mails.  Everything  seemed  to  show  that  our 
position  was  not  what  it  had  been.  In  former  days 
such  things  could  not  have  happened. 

Kotwal  Koireng  had  always  been  a  bad  character, 
and  had  for  years  been  under  a  cloud.  Had  I  re- 
mained in  Manipur  I  should  have  turned  him  out 
when  the  Maharajah  his  father  died,  and  reported 
the  matter  to  Government.  He  was  allowed  to 
remain,  and  proved  the  ruin  of  the  state.  His  blood- 
thirsty nature  soon  showed  itself,  and  he  half-roasted 
two  men  after  a  most  cruel  flogging,  the  Maharajah 
was  asked  to  turn  him  out  of  the  state,  and  would 
probably  have  consented,  but  just  at  the  time  a 
European  sergeant  shot  a  cow,  the  sacred  animal  of 
the  Hindoos,  an  outrage  far  exceeding  any  that  our 
imagination  can  paint,  and  the  Rajah  in  his  wrath 
flatly  refused  to  punish  his  brother,  while  such  a 
fearful  crime  as  cow  killing,  was  allowed  to  pass 
unnoticed.  Of  course  the  last  was  an  untoward 
event,  that  should  never  have  occurred.  We  ought 
not  to  allow  uncultured  Europeans  likely  to  be 
careless  of  native  feeling  and  susceptibilities  to  enter 
a  state  so  full  of  prejudice  and  suspicion  as  Manipur. 

Thus  events  followed  one  another  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, signs  every  now  and  then  appearing  which 
showed  that  all  was  not  as  quiet  as  it  seemed.  I 
heard  from  time  to  time  things  that  made  me  uneasy, 
as  I  gathered  that  Kotwal  Koireng,  now  become 
Senaputtee  or  Commander-in-Chief,  had  much  power 


278  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN  MANIPUR. 

and  influence,  and  I  felt  sure  that  he  would  soon 
make  an  attempt  to  oust  his  brother,  the  Maharajah. 

At  last  the  attempt  was  made.  In  September, 
1890,  the  Maharajah  Soor  Chandra  Singh  was 
attacked  in  his  palace  at  night,  and  driven  out.  He 
fled  to  Cachar  and  having  petitioned  the  Govern- 
ment of  India  for  his  restoration,  proceeded  to 
Calcutta.  The  case  was  a  simple  one,  a  palace 
revolution  had  occurred  and  our  nominee  whose 
succession  and  whose  throne  we  had  guaranteed,  had 
been  deposed.  The  course  to  be  adopted  by  Govern- 
ment was  as  clear  as  the  day,  Soor  Chandra  Singh 
should  have  been  restored  at  once  and  the  usurper 
severely  punished  for  insulting  the  majesty  of  the 
British  Government.  Nothing  of  the  kind  was  done. 
It  was  decided,  on  what  grounds  I  know  not,  to 
break  our  pledged  word ;  the  Maharajah  was  to  be 
exiled  with  a  pittance  for  his  support ;  his  stupid 
boorish  brother  who  had  been  set  up  as  puppet  by 
the  Senaputtee  was  to  be  Rajah ;  while  the  evil 
genius  of  Manipur,  the  treacherous  Senaputtee,  was 
to  be  exiled.  The  Government  of  India  then  ordered 
the  Chief  Commissioner  of  Assam  to  proceed  to 
Manipur  and  carry  out  their  decision,  including  the 
Senaputtee's  arrest. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  which  showed  the  greatest 
want  of  wisdom,  the  Government  in  issuing  such  an 
order,  or  the  Chief  Commissioner  in  accepting  such 
a  mission,  quite  derogatory  to  one  of  such  high  rank. 
We  all  know  how  it  ended.  The  less  said  about  it 
the  better,  it  reflects  no  credit  on  us.* 

*  "The  general  history  of  the  Manipur  incident,"  wrote  the  Times 
in  a  leading  article,  Aug.  14,  1891,  "  must  inspire  mingled  feelings  in  the 


THANGAL  MAJOK.  279 

With  one  or  two  things,  however,  I  am  concerned, 
and  one  of  these  is  the  sentence  on  Thangal  Major, 
or  General  as  he  was  called ;  in  the  correspondence 
usually  ignorantly  referred  to,  as  "The  Thangal 
General,"  a  misnomer,  Thangal  being  a  name  and 
not  a  title.  This  old  man  seventy-four  years  of  age 
had  long  almost  retired  into  private  life.  He  was  a 
devoted  follower  of  Soor  Chandra  Singh,  and  hated 
the  Senaputtee  whose  evil  influence  he  always  feared 
would  wreck  Manipur.  This  probably  made  the  latter 
recall  him  to  public  life,  so  as  to  keep  him  under  his 
eye;  anyhow,  he  was  by  force  of  circumstances 
obliged,  however  unwillingly,  to  act  as  a  loyal  subject 
of  his  own  de  facto  chief. 

I  have  said  so  much  about  the  old  man,  that  his 
character  will  be  well  understood.  He  was  a  strong, 
able,  unscrupulous  man,  not  likely  to  stick  at  trifles, 
and,  like  most  Asiatics  of  his  type,  capable  of 

breasts  of  most  Englishmen.  The  policy  in  which  it  originated,  cannot 
be  said  to  reflect  credit  on  the  Government  of  India,  while  the  actual 
explosion  itself  was  precipitated  by  a  series  of  blunders  which  have 
never  been  explained.  There  seems  to  be  little  doubt  that  had  the 
Government  of  India  made  up  its  mind  promptly  on  the  merits  of  the 
dynastic  quarrel  between  the  dethroned  Maharajah  and  his  brothers,  the 
Senaputtee  would  hardly  have  been  able  to  commit  the  crimes  which 
have  cost  him  his  life.  But  for  five  months  the  Government  of  India 
seemed  to  accept  the  revolution  accomplished  last  September  in  the 
palace  of  Manipur.  That  revolution  was  notoriously  the  work  of  the 
Senaputtee,  although  he  chose,  for  his  own  reasons,  to  place  one  of  his 
brothers  on  the  throne.  The  Government  did  not  indeed  assent  to  the 
change,  but  their  local  representative  does  not  appear  to  have  taken  marked 
steps  to  express  his  disapproval.  He  is  said  to  have  tolerated  and  con- 
doned it  to  this  extent,  that  he  kept  up  friendly  relations  with  the  new 
ruler  as  with  the  old.  On  the  deplorable  mistakes  which  led  up  to  the 
massacre,  and  made  it  possible,  it  is  unnecessary  to  dwell.  They  are 
still  unaccounted  for,  and  so  many  of  the  chief  actors  in  that  fatal 
business  have  perished,  that  it  is  more  than  doubtful  whether  we  shall 
ever  know  exactly  to  whom  they  severally  were  due." — ED. 


280  MY  EXPERIENCES   IN   MANIPUR. 

anything.  This  does  riot,  however,  mean  that  he 
was  worse  than  his  neighbours,  our  characters  are 
made  by  our  surroundings,  and  in  Manipur  the  sur- 
roundings are  not  of  an  elevating  nature.  Thangal 
was  in  many  ways  kind  hearted,  in  others  ruthless, 
and  for  the  moment  cruel,  his  wrath  flared  up  and, 
except  when  kept  aglow  for  policy's  sake,  soon 
burned  itself  out. 

When  first  I  heard  of  the  outbreak  I  made  two 
predictions,  both  proved  to  be  true.  One  of  these 
was  that,  whoever  was  guilty,  Thangal  Major  would 
be  accused.  I  never  did  think  him  guilty  by  .pre- 
meditation, but  I  knew  that,  as  for  so  long  a  time  he 
was  the  strong  head  of  the  executive,  he  was  not 
loved,  and  that  to  save  the  Senaputtee,  whom  I  of 
course  at  once  pitched  upon  as  the  " fans  et  origo" 
of  the  rebellion,  and  who  like  all  of  the  blood  royal 
was  looked  upon  as  semi-divine,  he  would  be  accused. 
I  read  the  evidence  published,  which  I  can  quite 
understand  appeared  conclusive  to  the  tribunal  before 
which  he  was  tried ;  reading  between  the  lines, 
however,  with  a  thorough  knowledge  of  Manipur  as 
I  was  able  to  do,  it  gave  me  quite  a  different  impres- 
sion. Knowing  the  old  man  so  intimately  as  I  did, 
his  way  of  talking  and  his  way  of  acting,  I  am  con- 
vinced that  he  was  in  no  way  a  willing  accessory  to 
the  rebellion,  that  he  in  no  way  connived  at  the 
invitation  to  our  officers  to  enter  the  palace  at  night, 
and  further  that  he  never  suggested  or  consented  to 
their  murder !  The  whole  proceeding  was  so  totally 
opposed  to  his  policy  that  he  would  never  have  sanc- 
tioned such  an  act  of  folly,  to  say  the  least.  The 
Senaputtee  richly  deserved  all  he  got  and  more. 


UNNECESSARY  ALAEM.  281 

An  unscrupulous  and  selfish  butcher  by  nature  he 
played  his  cards  badly  and  when  he  lost,  determined 
to  involve  his  whole  family  and  loyal  dependents  in 
the  ruin  which  his  own  insensate  folly  had  brought 
on  him.  I  quite  acknowledge  old  Thangal's  many 
faults,  but  I  also  remember  his  good  qualities,  and 
shall  ever  regret  that  he  came  to  -such  an  untimely 
end. 

As  regards  the  disposition  of  the  throne  I  have 
a  word  to  say.  Recognising  as  I  do  the  necessity 
of  maintaining  the  firmness  of  our  rule  and  prestige 
to  the  utmost,  a  rule  that  is  of  incalculable  benefit 
to  millions,  I  quite  approved  of  a  heavy  punish- 
ment being  exacted  as  a  terrible  warning  to  all 
time,  when  we  re-conquered  Manipur.  It  cannot  be 
denied  that  we  showed  unseemly  want  of  nerve 
when  the  news  of  the  disaster  arrived.  There  was 
no  necessity  to  place  Assam  under  a  military  ruler, 
nor  was  there  any  need  for  such  a  formidable  muster 
of  troops,  at  a  vast  expenditure  of  money  and 
suffering,  to  retrieve  a  disaster  brought  about  by 
such  an  extraordinary  want  of  courage,  nerve, 
forethought  and  common-sense.*  Our  position  in 
Manipur  had  never  been  a  dangerous  one,  and  even 
after  the  murder  of  the  Chief  Commissioner's  party 
the  troops  in  the  Residency  might  easily  have 
held  their  own  till  daybreak,  when  all  opposition 

*  Three  columns  (one  alone  numbering  1000  strong),  were  marched  at 
once  on  Imphal,  which  was  found  deserted.  The  Kegent  was  the  last  of 
the  princes  who  fled.  He  released  the  surviving  English  prisoner,  and 
sent  him  to  the  British  camp  to  ask  for  an  armistice;  but  this  was 
refused  until  he  delivered  up  the  Englishmen  already  dead.  The 
Manipuris,  then  expecting  no  mercy,  opposed  the  march  of  the 
troops. — ED; 


282  MY  EXPERIENCES  IN   MANIPUR. 

would  have  collapsed,  and  the  rebels  would  have 
fled,  leaving  our  people  masters  of  the  situation. 

I  have  expressed  my  opinion  as  to  the  mistake  we 
made  in  not  restoring  the  Rajah  before  the  outbreak 
of  March,  and  now  I  ask  the  question,  why,  after 
the  rebellion  was  put  down,  we  did  not  do  our  best 
to  repair  the  evil  by  restoring  Soor  Chandra  Singh 
to  his  own  ?  He,  or  his  infant  son,  might  have  been 
restored,  and  have  been  kept  in  a  state  of  tutelage 
as  long  as  necessary,  and  good  government  would 
have  been  secured  and  our  pledge  to  Chandra  Kirtee 
Singh  have  been  maintained  intact.  Instead  of  this, 
an  obscure  child,  a  descendant  not  of  Grhumbeer 
Singh,  but  of  Nur  Singh,  was  selected,  and  the  old 
line  cut  off  from  the  succession,  and  yet  three  gene- 
rations had  been  faithful  to  us.  Grhumbeer  Singh, 
Chandra  Kirtee  Singh,  and  Soor  Chandra  Singh  all 
served  us  loyally,  and  yet  we  suffered  the  last  to  die 
of  a  broken  heart  in  exile.  Well  might  he  exclaim, 
"  And  is  this  the  reward  for  so  many  years'  service ! " 
For  my  part  I  say  emphatically,  let  us  beware,  we 
have  not  heard  the  last  of  Manipur ! 

My  sense  of  right  and  justice  make  me  record 
facts  as  they  strike  me,  and  yet  I  cannot  help 
acknowledging  as  I  do  so,  that  the  Government  of 
India  is  the  best  government  in  the  world.  When 
has  India  been  so  governed,  and  what  country  in 
Europe  has  such  an  able  and  just  administration  ? 
Surrounded  by  difficulties,  material,  financial  and 
political,  badgered  by  ignorant  members  of  the 
House  of  Commons,  for  ever  asking  foolish  questions 
and  moving  foolish  resolutions ;  the  stately  bureau- 
cracy plods  steadily  on  with  one  object  in  view,  the 


INDIA.  283 

good  oi  the  people.  If  at  times  it  makes  mistakes, 
who  does  not  ?  The  greatest  General  is  he  who 
makes  fewest  mistakes,  and,  judged  by  this  standard 
alone,  the  Government  of  India  has  the  first  rank 
among  governing  bodies.  It  has,  however,  a  title 
to  honour  which  no  one  can  assail.  It  is  the  only 
instance  in  history  of  a  body  of  foreigners  who 
govern  an  Empire,  not  for  their  own  benefit,  but 
for  the  benefit  of  the  races  committed  by  Provi- 
dence to  their  charge.  May  Providence  long  watch 
over  it ! 


(      284     ) 


INDEX. 


ABOBS,  39 
Allen,  Mr.,  244 
Almorah,  56 
Alongpra,  82 
Angamis,  9,  27, 148 
Angao  Senna,  113 
Angelo,  Captain,  208 
Arracan,  82 
Assam,  3,  56,  274 
Ava,  81 

BADGLEY,  COLONEL,  18,  211 

Barrett,  Lieutenant,  164 

Bayley,    Sir     Steuart,    128,    136. 

177-180 

Bernard,  Sir  C.  and  Lady,  1 
Biggs,  Lieutenant,  36 
Boileau,  Lieutenant,  173 
Bombay-Bunnah  Corporation,  244 
Bretto,  249 
Boyd,  Major,  61 
Boyle,  Mr.,  3 
Brown,  Dr.,  18 
Buddhism,  83 
Bularam  Singh,  72 
Burmah,  80,  240 
Burrail  Range  17,  24 
Burney,  Colonel,  86 
Burrhampooter,  R.,  39,  100 
Burton,  Lieutenant,  68 
Butler,  Captain,  17,  25 

CACHAREES,  24 
Cachar,  124,  149, 179 


Calcutta,  53,  127 
Campbell,  Sir  G.,  2 
,  Dr.,  166 

,  Major,  258 

Carnegy,  Mr.,  59,  93, 102 
Cawley,  Mr.,  149,  157 

— ,  Mrs.,  157 

Chandra  Kirtee  Singh,  69,  74,  89 
China,  89 

Chmdwin,  R.,  81,  100,  250-260 
Chomjet,  Rajah,  68 
Cock,  Major,  167 
Coombs,  Mr.,  11 
Cooper,  Mr.,  11 
Cuttack,  1,  44 

DALTON,  GENERAL,  43 
Damant,  Mr.,  28,  147,  161 
Debindro,  89 
Delhi  Assembly,  54 
Deo  Panee,  7 
De  Renzy,  Dr.,  168 
Dimapur,  8,  45 
Diphoo  Panee,  10 
Dufferin,  Earl  of,  262-270 
Dun,  Captain,  209,  222 
Dunseree,  R.,  9 
Durand,  Colonel,  56 

EERUNG,  98 

Elliott,  Sir  C.,  201,  207,  215,  223 

England,  1,  206 

Eteson,  Dr.,  266 

Evans,  Major,  162 


INDEX. 


285 


FORBES,  LIEUTENANT,  172 

GANGES  E.,  100 
Ghumbeer  Singh,  86, 139 
Goalundo,  2,  214 
Golaghat,  3,  177 
Gordon,  Captain,  36,  89,  120 
Gowhatty,  2,  51 
Grange,  Mr.,  34 
Grant,  Captain,  85 
Guthrie,  Colonel,  63 

HENDERSON,  LIEUTENANT,  169 
Himalayas,  14,  55 
Hinde,  Mr.,  155-158 
Hurreo  Jan,  19 

INDIAN-COLONIAL  EXHIBITION,  108 
Imphal,  65, 121 
Irrawaddy  K.,  252 

JENKINS,  CAPTAIN,  22 
Johnstone,  Sir  James's  wife,  2,  48 

151,  216 
Johnstone,   Sir   James's  children, 

48, 133, 166 
Joobraj  (Soor  Chandra  Singh),  69, 

152 
Juggernaut,  Feast  of,  144 


KEATINQE,  GENERAL,  57 

Kendat,  249,  250 

Kenoma,  22 

Keonjhur,  130 

Khyahs,  15 

Kohima,  17,  23,  35,  149 

Kongal  Tannah,  101,  210 

Kong-hoop-kool,  109,  166,  268 

Koireng    Singh  (Senaputtee),   72, 

112, 152,  280 
Kola  Ranee,  68 
Konoma,  47, 157-164,  170 
Kooak  Kaithel  (crow  bazaar),  96 
Kubo  valley,  79,  86,  101,  200,  212, 

234,  264 
Kuki  tribe,  25,  164,  166,  180,  1% 


LANGTHABAL,  88, 121 
Logtak  Lake,  128,  205 
Lumphal,  239 
Lushais,  93,  192 
Lyall,  Sir  A.,  128 
Lytton,  Lord,  128 

MACGRE'GOR,  COLONEL,  174 

Mahometans,  84,  221 

Mansel,  Colonel,  167 

Mao  Tannah,  149,  198,  242 

McCulloch,  Colonel,  57,  60,  75,  89 

Medlicotts,  41 

Michell,  Colonel,  192 

Mingin,  259 

,  Woon  of,  244,  249 

Moncur,  Mr.,  244 
Mozuma,  39,  42,  93,  176 

NAMBOB  FOREST,  6 
Nation,  General,  162 
Needham,  Mr.,  11,  48  • 
Nichu  Guard,  16 
Nigriting,  3 
Noonpong,  6 
Nowkattu,  9,  42 
Nur  Singh,  Rajah,  89,  282 
Nuttall,  Colonel,  169 


O'BRIEN,  Da.,  178 
Ogle,  Mr.,  209 
Oldham,  Mr.,  209 

PEGU,  82 

Pemberton,  Lieuteuant,  85 

Phayre,  Mr.,  209-214 

Phoiching,  66 

Pong,  81 

Prendergast,  General,  267 

Pullel,  121 

QUINTON,  MR.,  5 

RABAN,  LIEUTENANT,  169,  198 
Ramsey,  Sir  H.,  56 


286 


INDEX. 


Ram  Singh,  68 
Roberts,  Mr.,  244 
Ridgeway,  Major,  18,  173 
Ruckstuhl,  Mr.,  257 

SAMAGOOTING,  12,  41, 177 

Samoo  Singh,  66 

Scott,  David,  85 

Sena  Kaithel  (Golden  bazaar),  134 

Shillong,  58,  270 

Sudya,  122 

Sumjok,  87,  200,  207 

Suktis,  129 

TANGUL,  MAJOR,  75,  216,  236 
Tamu,  79,  246,  263 


Thobal,  210 

Thompson,  Sir  Rivers,  52 

Trotter,  Major,  274 

VERELST,  GOVERNOR,  85 

WALKER,  MAJOR,  158 
Wankai  Rakpar,  72,  281 
Ward,  Mr.,  240,  270 
Watt,  Dr.,  210 
Wilcox,  68 

Williamson,  Major,  167 
Woodthorpe,  Colonel,  18 
Wynne,  22 

Jg 

YOMA  MOUNTAINS,  102,  234 


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