UMASS.
DATE DUE
UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS
AMHERST
M
t/}
O
Nantucket
A H istory
By
R. A. Douglas-Lithgow, m.d., ll.d.
Formerly Vice-President and Foreign Secretary of the Royal Society
of Literature of Great Britain and Ireland ; Life Fellow of the
Royal Geological Society of Ireland ; Member of the
Anthropological Society of Washington, etc.
Author of "Dictionary of American-Indian Place and Proper Names
of New England," "Heredity: A Study," etc.
" It is important that many facts, which now exist but in memory, should
be seasonably secured. Time flies, and without some attempt to preserve
these historical data, many of them must be obliterated forever."
Samuel H. Jenks.
With Illustrations and a Map
G. P. Putnam's Sons
New York and London
G:be iftnicfierbocfter press
1914
Copyright, 191 4
BY
R. A. DOUGLAS-LITHGOW
Ube ■ftnichetbocfcer iprees, mew Hotft
Co
MY WIFE
my appreciative companion
in many historic rambles
this volume is affectionately
Dedicated
FOREWORD
As no systematic historical record of Nantucket
has appeared since 1835, when Obed Macy's History
was published, and as for some time past a general
desire has been expressed that a new history, of a
popular character, be issued, the writer, at the solicita-
tion of several prominent islanders, at length consented
to compile such a work. The present volume, which
is the result of such an endeavor, has been written under
difficulties, not the least of which has been the author's
residence on the mainland. In view of this circum-
stance it could not have been produced at all without
the collaboration of numerous friends and much corre-
spondence.
While every competent authority has been con-
sulted, a special effort has been made to compress the
material at the writer's disposal into a work of limited
compass, and at the same time to leave unchronicled
no important matters.
The history of the island in the latter half of the
nineteenth century has not before been systematically
recorded. In presenting this period in fuller outline
and in offering a fresh survey of a section of the country
that is deserving of the attention of the historian, the
author trusts that he has done something towards
supplying a want that has been long felt, and if such
vi Foreword
should be the case, he considers himself well repaid
for this labor of love.
Cordial and most appreciative thanks are due to Miss
Grace Brown Gardner for the use made of her masterly-
contribution on the Botany of the island; to Alexander
Starbuck and to H. B. Turner of the Inquirer and
Mirror for valuable collaboration; to Hon. Benjamin
Sharp, Ph.D., Mrs. Eva C. G. Folger, Arthur H.
Gardner, Henry S. Wyer, and William F. Macy, for
their assistance and uniform courtesy, in addition to
the granting by them of copyright privileges.
Among many others to whom a debt of gratitude is
owing for esteemed assistance, the writer must mention
the names of Mrs. Ackley, Mrs. Hinchman of Philadel-
phia, Irving Elting, Mrs. Albertson; Miss Caroline
Parker, the courteous Librarian of the Athenaeum;
J. H. Robinson of Washington; Sumner J. Kimball,
General Superintendent of the U. S. Life-saving Ser-
vice at Washington; Mrs. Anna Starbuck Jenks, the
late Mrs. Judith G. Fish, Miss Anna Gardner Fish,
Mrs. F. S. Raymond; J. Arthur Burton, Principal
of Nantucket High School; James Walter Folger,
John C. Gardner, Horace Coleman, and Miss Adah
Porte.
If the writer's labors tend in any degree to promote
the welfare of the island or the happiness of the
islanders, he will esteem such a result some slight return
for the golden hours afforded him during his several
sojourns in the region described.
R. A. D.-L.
Boston, Mass.
CONTENTS
PAGE
CHAPTER
I Geology and Physiography of the
Island ...... i
II Legends, Discovery, and Amerind
Place-Names . . . • • 17
III The Aborigines 35
IV The White Settlers and the Settle-
ment . . ... . 58
V The Early Development of the Island 78
VI The Nantucket Whale Fishery . 103
VII Quakerism in Nantucket . . . 115
VIII Nantucket Records .... 130
IX The Nineteenth Century . . . I54
X The Nineteenth Century— Cow/iwMe^ . 179
XI Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 205
XII Eminent Nantucketers . . . 222
XIII The Nantucket Flora ... 245
XIV Villages, Districts, etc. . . . 269
XV " Quaint Nantucketers " . . . 284
VUl
Contents
CHAPTER
XVI Life -Saving Service and Wrecks
XVII The Island Steamers .
XVIII The Newspapers of Nantucket
XIX In the Dredge-Net
XX Chronological Data, 1602-1912
Index .....
304
320
329
340
365
381
ILLUSTRATIONS
The Oldest House
Frontispiece
Dorcas Honorable .
. 52
Abram Quary . . . .
. . . 56
The Old Mill . . . .
. 84
An Old Friend . . . .
. 116
Main Street . . . .
. 206
Billy Clark, Town Crier
. 300
The Historical Society
. 360
Map of Nantucket .
At End
BIBLIOGRAPHY
History of Nantucket, Obed Macy, 1835.
" " " " 2 ed., 1882.
The Island of Nantucket, Edward K. Godfrey, 1882.
Early Settlers of Nantucket, Mrs. Lydia S. Hinchman, 1896.
Handbook of Nantucket, Isaac H. Folger, 1874.
Topographical Description of Nantucket, Walter Folger,
Jr., 1791.
Nooks and Corners of Massachusetts, S. G. Drake, 1875.
Nantucket Scraps, Jane G. Austin, 1883.
Miriam Coffin, James C. Hart, Reprint, 1872.
Trustum and his Grandchildren, Harriet Worron, 1881.
Papers Relating to Nantucket, F. B. Hough, Albany, 1856.
Wrecks around Nantucket, Arthur H. Gardner, 1877.
Life of Tristram Coffin, Allen Coffin, LL.B., 1881.
Genealogy of Macy Family, Sylvanus J. Macy, 1868.
Sconset Cottage Life, A. Judd Northrup, 1901.
MSS. OF Geo. W. Howland Folger.
Churches and Pastors of Nantucket, Myron S. Dudley,
1902.
Timothy White Papers, M. S. Dudley, 1878. (Nantucket
Historical Association.)
MSS. OF F. C. Folger.
Report of Geological Survey, Professor Shaler, Washington,
1889.
Portfolio, 1 811.
Letters of an American Farmer, Hector H. John Creve-
CGEUR, 1778.
xii Bibliography
The Glacier's Gift, Eva C. G. Folger, 191 i.
Quaint Nantucket, W. Root Bliss, 1907
Nantucket Steamers, H. B. Turner, 1910.
Guide to Nantucket, J. H. Robinson, 2d ed.
Lands and Landowners of Nantucket, H. Barnard Worth,
1 901.
File of Nantucket Gazette, 1816.
Files of Nantucket I?iquirer and Mirror, covering sixty years.
Annual Reports of Life-Saving Service.
Sea-Girt Nantucket, H. S. Wyer.
The Oldest House, 1905.
Nantucket Town a?id County Records, 170 vols.
Scrap-hooks OF F. C. Sanford, Athenceum.
Map OF Dr. Ewer.
History of Martha's Vineyard, Dr. C. E, Banks, 2 vols.
Indian Converts, Experience Mayhew
Nantucket : Picturesque and Historic, H. S. Wyer, 1891.
American Merchant Marine, John A. Spear, 1910.
Talks about Nantucket, Christopher Coffin Hussey.
Etc., etc.
NANTUCKET
Oh, lovely Isle, where Peace and Beauty reign
Amid thy moorlands wild, and fragrant flowers;
Where with Arcadian joys fond Nature dowers
A thousand scenes within thy fair domain.
Here, care-forgetting, have I oft-times lain,
Dreaming, within the shade of thy sweet bowers,
Winging the flight of summer's golden hours.
Gazing the while upon thy wondrous main —
God's glorious ocean, in its matchless might.
Exulting in its awful majesty.
How sweet its diapasoned song by night!
How it still surges through my memory !
Oh, Isle of joy, serene and exquisite.
May Heaven's choicest gifts abide with thee !
R. A. D.-L.
God bless the sea-beat island!
And grant for evermore,
That charity and freedom dwell.
As now, upon her shore!
J. G. Whittier.
Nantucket: A History
CHAPTER I
THE GEOLOGY AND PHYSIOGRAPHY OF NANTUCKET
In the evolution of the earth's surface as a dwelHng-
place for man, the Great Architect of the Universe
subjected the hthosphere, or body of the earth, to a
series of transitional changes differentiated from each
other and marked by the stratified deposition of certain
rocks, for the most part characterized by the fossil
remains of plants and animals, many of which forms
are no longer in existence.
The study of these changes constitutes the science
of Geology.
The strata of the earth were formerly divided into
Primary, Secondary, Tertiary, and Quaternary in an
ascending scale, the Primary being the oldest and
deepest, and the Quartemary the most recent. Each
of these divisions required incalculable ages of time
for their production. More recently the formulary
of geological epochs has been altered according to the
2 Nantucket
order of the succession of the forms of Hfe, as follows:
1. Palaeozoic, or oldest life.
2. Mesozoic, or middle life.
3. j Cenozoic, or recent life.
4. ( Pleistocene or most recent life.
The Pleistocene, or Glacial period (now usually con-
sidered a subdivision of the Cenozoic), although, com-
paratively, of shorter duration than those preceding
it, probably gave character to many succeeding ages.
While the Palaeozoic, Mesozoic, and Cenozoic epochs
are usually distinguished by their respective faunas and
floras, the Pleistocene is especially marked by its
climatic history. It is with this period that the an-
tiquity of Man is intimately associated.
As the Glacial period advanced, the temperature
became increasingly colder, and mountains and fields
of ice covered, to a great extent, the surface of the earth.
Many theories have been propounded to explain the
natural causation of this tremendous glacial submer-
gence, but while none of these is universally accepted,
the m.ost plausible are the following: (i) that which
accounts for it by changes in solar radiation, — upon
which atmospheric heat depends, — and (2) that which
supposes changes in the geographic position of the
earth's axis. Whatever theories may be assigned, how-
ever, they are at best but hypothetical, and, as far as
the present development of science extends, no mere
theory can be established with absolute certainty.
The Pleistocene period includes three epochs, or
classes of phenomena, which may be briefly described
as follows:
1st. The Glacial period, when great continental
areas in the higher latitudes were raised to much higher
Geology and Physiography 3
altitudes than at present exist, and when the inten-
sification of climatic cold prevailed to such an extent
as to produce an immense development of glaciers.
2d. What is known as the Champlain period, when
the ice had melted, and the great high latitude areas
were reduced to a lower level than at present, re-
sulting in a vast co-extensive deposit of river and lake
formations, and marine formations along the sea-coast.
3d. Recent period, when the land was again raised
almost to its present level.
The Glacial and Champlain periods were united by
Lyell, in his later works, under the general designation
of the Pleistocene period.
It may be generally stated that while the Cenozoic
period tended to the formation and differentiation of
rock, and was characterized by the inclusion of recent
organic forms, the operations of the Pleistocene period
were applied to the broad surface of the continent,
and particularly to its middle and higher latitudes, in
filling up and leveling interstices, in rounding hills and
constituting valleys; in a word, in smoothing over and
consolidating the surface of the earth, to make it meet
as a dwelling-place for man.
According to modern science, the more recent geo-
logical periods, i. e., the recent or post-Glacial, and post-
Pliocene or Glacial, are estimated to cover a period of
625,000 years, as follows: post-Glacial or Recent, 25,000
years; Glacial or post-Pliocene, 600,000 years. These
figures represent an approximate mean of the estimates
made by the most trustworthy chronologists, and can
be relied upon as at least suggestive of the relative
lengths and orders of magnitude of the periods.^
' Professor W. H. Holmes, American Anthropologist, vol. xii., No. 2,
1910.
4 Nantucket
From his frigid fastnesses in Labrador and New-
foundland, the desolating breath of the Ice-King smote
the North American continent, and the glaciers already
in existence, as those of the Rocky Mountains, the
Sierras, and Alaska, rapidly expanded, and descended
the mountain-slopes to greater distances. New glaciers
were formed in many directions, and those of Alaska
and the western mountains of British America coalesced
and filled the intervening valleys, thus constituting an
immense ice-field, almost as extensive as that of Green-
land. In Northeastern America a still greater ice-
field was produced, which spread eastward to the
Atlantic, and westward almost as far as the Great
Lakes. The entire surface of New England to its
farthest southern boundary — some sixty or seventy
miles beyond the spot where Nantucket stands to-day
— was submerged beneath a vast, thick mantle of ice,
which covered also the whole of New York State, most
of New Jersey, and part of Pennsylvania, extending
even to the Ohio River, at Cincinnati, and at several
points to the Missouri.
For incalculable ages the earth lay bound in icy
fetters, ever increasing in massiveness, ever indurating,
ever consolidating, spell-bound as in a sleep of death,
while the Ice-King exulted in the white crystalline
palaces of his frozen domain.
After her aeonial swoon, however. Nature, obedient
to the fiat of the Eternal, slowly and quietly awakened
from her long rest, and stirred the earth in her awaken-
ing. The gentle south wind hastened to do her bidding,
and as its warm breath touched the cheek of the Frost-
King, his crystal fastness shrank in terror, and, by
degrees, his whole realm slowly but surely retreated.
The masses of rock, which were separated by atmos-
Geology and Physiography 5
pheric pressure from the mountains pounding the
valleys along which the glaciers flowed, found a tem-
porary resting-place on the surface of the ice, at the
margin of the glacier, and were carried along with it.
Sometimes two glaciers united, and one large trail in
the middle of the trunk glacier was thus formed by the
carried drift. Eventually, when the superimposed
masses reached the end of the glacier, the melting ice
deposited them in the form of a huge mound. These
superficial forms of drift are known as moraines, and,
from their position on the glacier, are generally recog-
nized as constituting three varieties, distinguished as
lateral, median, and terminal.
The results of glacial action — to w^hich are attributed
many startling changes on the earth's surface — are
classified as deposits, erosion, and drift. The most char-
acteristic detrital deposit is known as bowlder clay or
till, a mixture of fine and coarse clay or sand without
lamination or stratification. The coarse material
imbedded in the finer matrix ranges from grains
and pebbles to cobbles and bowlders of immense
size, showing worn surfaces and parallel markings, or
flattened facets produced by grinding or attrition.
Such material is mostly conveyed from long distances.
In addition to the bowlder clay are found also marls and
raised sea-beaches. / Gravels and sands more or less
laminated, some of which seem to have been subjected
to the action of running water, are also characteristic.
Sometimes, also, broad tracts are found covered by
laminated clays, including scratched pebbles and bowl-
ders like those in till, and these deposits are ascribed
to bodies of water in which icebergs have floated.^
Coincident with the great expansion of glaciers,
' G. K. Gilbert.
^
6 Nantucket
local changes in the relative altitude of land and sea
were produced, and the connection of these phenomena
has been definitely determined in the case of the New-
England coast.
Inasmuch as the island of Nantucket came into
existence as the result of glacial action, this preliminary-
sketch may be acceptable as an introduction to an
account of its geological formation.
The island of Nantucket lies near the extreme south-
eastern point of a great projection of lands and shoals
forming the southern front of New England. It is
composed of sands, gravels, and clays, which were
brought into their present position during, or immedi-
ately before, the last Glacial period.
It may be stated that Nantucket Island is but a
small fragment of a vast sheet of this glacially-trans-
ported matter.
The greater part of Plymouth Co., Mass., the whole of
Cape Cod, the larger portion of Martha's Vineyard, and
the whole of Long Island, with all the many islands and
islets at its eastern extremity, are the dissevered remains of
a great shelf formed of the debris brought to its present
position by the glacial ice, and by the streams of water
which flowed beneath it.^
As the result of glacial action, this vast shelf of land
extended southwards of Long and Block Islands,
Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket ; it was at this time
above the level of the sea, but became almost entirely
submerged with the exception of the lands still existing
as islands, ranging from Nantucket on the east to
Staten Island on the west. The deposit of this sub-
merged land was much more recent in its formation
' Professor N. S. Shaler.
Geology and Physiography 7
than Nantucket, which, as a terminal moraine, had
accumulated a vaster amount of drift material, and
thus, as Dr. Ev/er says:
The whole region of southern New England was elevated
at least six hundred feet above its present height, and this
uplifting or uptilting of the eastern part of our continent
pushed the Atlantic back some seventy miles south of
where it is to-day, entirely out of sight from Quanaty.
When the expanse of more recently formed land on
which Nantucket stood was submerged, Nantucket was
insulated by the advance of the sea around it, and the
other islands in the same chain — Martha's Vineyard,
Long, Block, and Staten Islands — were similarly left
standing in the ocean.
Nantucket was, therefore, a terminal moraine, — a
halting-place of the glacial movement, — that is, it was
formed by the advancing lower rim of the glacier which,
melting, deposited its accumulations of drift — sand,
clay, and bowlders — caught up in its southward march,
and frozen within its substance, in great heaps where
they exist to-day as islands in the ocean. There are
evidences that, arrived at Nantucket, the glacial ice,
owing probably to an increase of temperature, receded
northwards for some distance, and advanced again.
This testimony is sustained by the fact that a chain
of glacial islands — more recent terminal moraines —
stretches from the eastern coast of Cape Cod, and ex-
tends through the Elizabeth Islands and Point Judith,
to Fisher's and Plum Islands.
In certain glaciated regions, as in Nantucket, glacial
deposits are found overlain by peat and other growths,
which could not have been formed under the ice, and
these, in turn, also overlaid by other deposits. In
8 Nantucket
the attempt to account for these phenomena, it has
been suggested, with much probabiHty, that mountain
glaciers and lowland ice-sheets advanced and retreated
more than once. Some, indeed, aver that there must
have been several glacial epochs; others maintain that
there were at least two, separated by an inter-glacial
epoch ; but this is not yet determined.
With regard to the general geological structure of
the island, the lowest deposit is till, or bowlder clay,
blue in color, and sparsely intermingled • with pebbles
and sand. The clay is slightly laminated, and some
of the pebbles are scratched, as glacial pebbles fre-
quently are. This can be readily seen at Wannacomet,
near the pumping station, at Squam Head, and in the
town. As a rule, the upper surface of the till is below
the level of the sea, and it assumes in general an un-
dulatory form.
Above the surface of this clay deposit is a mass of
more or less stratified sand, easily recognized in its
formation and aspect as constituting kames and ter-
races. These kames are low hills varying in height
and shape; sometimes conical and sometimes elongated,
sometimes isolated, more frequently crowded together.
Between the ridges are small narrow valleys, often
extending downwards to swamps or ponds.
Where these hills are steepest, bowlders of various
sizes are usually found, but, as the stones on the island
have been generally appropriated for economic pur-
poses, they are not now seen as much as formerly.
These kames are found for the most part in the central
and northern portions of the island, and in few, if any,
instances approach the shore. As a rule they taper
down to a sandy plain, which descends gradually to the
Atlantic. Professor Shaler thought that these kames
Geology and Physiography 9
and moraines were deposited at a considerable depth be-
neath the sea, and that the low spaces often found
between them were formed by the separation of icebergs
at the front of the glacier.
These all slope oceanwards. Their lower extremities
are invariably below the sea-level, and thus contain
more or less ponds which are barred from the ocean by
walls of sand. There are upwards of two dozen of
these lacustrine depressions on the island.
The internal structure of the kames and terraces
presents a curious mixture of stratified and unstratified
materials, — sand and small pebbles accumulated ir-
regularly in layers. The bowlders frequently found
among these pebbly sands are believed to have been
deposited on floating ice, and, if this theory is correct,
it goes far to prove that the kames and terraces were
accumulated under water.
Professor Shaler was of the opinion that all the glacial
drift of Nantucket, except the bowlders transplanted
by icebergs, came from far east of the Narraganset
basin.
The fossiliferous deposits of Nantucket are compara-
tively unimportant, consisting mainly of fresh-water
peats, and a variety of recent marine species, and need
not be further noticed here.
A few words may be devoted to the succession of
geological events on Nantucket.
The deposition of the unstratified blue clay under-
lying the island must have taken place during the
Glacial period, when the ice-sheet covered this section.
It was probably formed as ground moraine either
under the surface or immediately in front of the ice-
sheet.
After the deposition of the clay, the ice-sheet re-
10 Nantucket
treated, and the climatic conditions permitted the
return of marine Hfe to the shore Hne. The level of
this shore at one time must have been at least fifty feet
below the present high-tide mark. After the fossil-
iferous beds were formed, the ice again advanced until
its southern front came at least to the middle of the
island. During this readvance were accumulated the
existing heaps of stratified and amorphous sand, gravel,
and bowlders, and the southern sand-plains, which
constitute the principal features of the island, were
formed under the following conditions:
1 . The surface was below the present level of the sea.
2. The drift materials were partly shoved forward by
the glacier and partly deposited by the streams which
escaped from below the ice.
3. The existence of considerable streams rising from the
ice front, and extending to the south, is shown by the
numerous deep channels which are excavated in the south-
ern terrace or sand plains.
4. The sand plains on the southern part of the island,
which exist nowhere else on its surface, were deposited
during the time when the detrital hills of the northern
section were being accumulated.
5. After the foregoing stages of the re-advancing ice,
the glacier appears to have again retreated northward for
the last time. During, or after, this recession the surface
must have been suddenly elevated above the level of the
sea.^
It is therefore inferred that the series of delicately
moulded kames were formed below the surface of the
sea and uplifted above its surface after the last retreat
of the ice.
So far as can be determined, the front of the ice,
' Professor N. S. Shaler.
Geology and Physiography ii
during the formation of the Nantucket moraine, lay-
in a nearly east and west direction.
A few post-Glacial changes in the island may be
briefly referred to, under three heads, viz. : changes of
level; changes due to the alteration of the surface;
and changes due to the wearing of the sea.
The principal change of level was that which brought
the sand and gravel hills, and the fringe of lower land
on the south, above the sea-level. Allowing that the
sandhills were originally formed on the sea floor, at the
front of the ice, their summits must have been sub-
merged to a depth of at least 200 feet below the sea-
level. As the highest of these sandhills now lies about
100 feet above the sea-level, the post-Glacial uplift
must have been over 300 feet, and probably much more.
There must have been a subsequent submergence
which brought the fresh-water peat deposits below the
sea-level, — probably a submergence of ten feet.
That part of
the northern shore which lies inside Coatue beach has a
very indented shore line, while the coast to the west of the
harbor has an outline such as all shores have which have
been subjected to the long-continued action of the waves.
This shore, after the post-Glacial elevation, must have been
much farther to the northward than it is at present; then
came the subsidence indicated by the submerged peats,
which brought the land to about its present level. The
beach of Coatue was rapidly formed in front of a portion
of the north shore, and has since served as a protecting
barrier against the assaults of the vigorous waves which
form in Nantucket Sound.
It may be assumed that, when the island of Nan-
tucket was deposited in the ocean, the salient points
12 Nantucket
which now surround it were not in existence, and that
Nantucket itself, Tuckemuck, and Coskata all appeared
as separate islands. The great Glacial masses were
moving southwards, and from their southern rim the
waters were rushing in the same direction with their
freight of drift. Doubtless the northern range of hills
on Nantucket were then deposited, and, gaining im-
petus in their southern flow, the drift-bearing waters
spread their sand and gravel over the southern plains,
excavating valleys in their impetuous course, and
scooping out basins for pools and lakes, as they speeded
on to sink once more within the breast of mother-ocean.
Such, in briefest, if not in blurred outline, is a sketch
of the geology of Nantucket, — the most interesting
specimen of a terminal moraine in existence. ^
PHYSIOGRAPHY
Nantucket Island is the most southern point of
Massachusetts. Its geographical position has been
indicated elsewhere; a brief reference to its topography
may be made here.
The shape of the island is somewhat difficult to define,
but has been described as "triangular" and "crescen-
tic." The writer believes that it resembles, more
than anything else, a rough diagrammatic outline of
the human stomach.
The general surface of the island may be said to be
level, but much of it is undulating, owing to a multi-
plicity of Glacial drtmilins. These run in the path of
the ice movement, and, especially along the northern
' In the compilation of this chapter the writer must express his
obligations to a masterly scientific Report on the Geology of Nantucket,
by the late Professor N. S. Shaler.
Geology and Physiography 13
side of its main body, where the melting rim of the
glacier stood, are a number of hills, in several instances
approaching one hundred feet in height. Between these
hills and the southern shore a level expanse extends
gently downwards to the ocean, which expanse probably
resulted from the glacial waters carrying down south-
wards floods of drift laden with gravel, sand, bowlders,
and clay, from the top and southern sides of the moraine,
and their deposition upon the southern plains. The
hills are known as Saul's, Trot's, Sankaty, Popsquat-
chet, Shawkemo, etc., and the expanse is apportioned
among districts known as Southeast Quarter, South
Pasture, Smooth Hummocks, the Plains, Great Neck,
Nanahuma Neck, etc.
The southern plains are, moreover, diversified by a
number of parallel valleys, all tending southward, viz.:
Chappapemeset, Coffin's, Starbuck's, Madequecham,
Barnard's, Wyer's, and other valleys, in several in-
stances terminating in ponds, as Weeweder, Miacomet,
Hummock, and Long Ponds. Indeed, quite a chain
of ponds ^ formerly existed round the southern shore-
line, but many of them have been, and are being, filled
up by sand deposits swept down from the higher ground
above, and by beach-sand blown or washed over from
the ocean.
The outline of the coast, especially on its northern
and western aspects, is rendered unsymmetrical by the
several sandy points and prolongations which reach
out from it, but the southern and eastern shores are
comparatively regular.
The outer harbor is formed by an extensive bay on
the north, and is enclosed by two sandy points, one
at the northeast — Great Point; and one at the north-
• Vide Chapter XX.
14 Nantucket
west part of the island — Smith's Point, — both tending
towards the northwest.
The inner harbor is entered between Brant Point
and a long sandy promontory known as Coatue, which
formations are about three-fourths of a mile apart,
and almost entirely land-lock the harbor. Near
Wauwinet, at the head of the harbor, there was a
narrow strip of sand which divided the ocean from the
harbor and which was known as the "Haulover,"
because the fishermen found access to and egress from
the harbor by hauling their boats across at this point.
During a severe storm on December 17, 1896, the
angry waves tore away the sandy partition, and, as
time went on, the opening was gradually extended
until it eventually reached Coskata, and converted the
northern extremity of Coatue peninsula into an island.
Subsequently the opening gradually closed up, and
the "Haulover" now remains in its original condition.
Within and on the west side of the inner harbor are
the town of Nantucket and its wharves. A dangerous
shoal crosses the outer harbor about two miles north
of the island, extending from Muskeget Island to Cos-
kata. Another great shoal extends round the southern
shore, and there are several shoals on the east side of
the island. These have proved terribly disastrous to
navigation, for hundreds of vessels have perished round
the island, in sight of home.
The names of the many ponds of the Island will be
found elsewhere. ^
The moors are thickly covered with scrub-oak, bay,
wild straw- and black-berries, and an infinitude of
shrubs, ferns, mosses, and lichens, and present a very
paradise of flowers from May to October. For those
• Vide Chapter XX.
Geology and Physiography 15
who love solitude amid the charms of nature, a stroll
over the fragrant moorlands forms, perhaps, the su-
preme attraction on the island.
If ever the island was wooded, it must have been
before the beginning of the eighteenth century. That it
was wooded in places, is very probable; but the settlers
evidently had little relish for forestry, and soon ex-
hausted the supply. Nevertheless, the trees planted
in the town, after the great fire of 1846, — especially
those on Main, Centre, Federal, and Broad Streets, —
have grown splendidly, as well as they do in any district
in New England.
The roads on the island are almost innumerable,
and radiate in many directions from the town. There
is a fine macadamized State road running from Nan-
tucket to Siasconset. These unconventional roads
are a delight to all to whom adventure appeals, and
they lead to such varied scenes, and enticing solitudes
of nature that every artistic soul must indeed be
thrilled with joy.
NANTUCKET TOWN
From whatever aspect the town of Nantucket is
regarded it is certainly imique. Yet if one attempts to
analyze its uniqueness, the experiment is usually dis-
appointing, because the elements are so multiform and
elusive. We may exhaust its historical associations,
the beauty and fragrance of its moors, the absolute
purity of its ocean-air, the proverbial geniality and
quaintness of its inhabitants, the natural wildness of
its gardens, the brightness of its sunshine, the pictur-
esqueness of its buildings, the varied joys of its social
life, the magnificence of its ocean views, the sublimity
i6 Nantucket
of its sunsets, the peacefulness of its solitudes, but all
in vain. There is a spell about the place; and he who
has once succumbed to its gentle mesmeric influences
ever leaves them with regret, ever longs for their
renewal, and never forgets them.
CHAPTER II
LEGENDS, DISCOVERY, AND AMERIND PLACE-NAMES
Among the Indian tribes of this vast American con-
tinent much legendary lore prevailed, and there were
few problems connected with human existence which
had not been solved for them by the myths, legends,
and traditions which had been passed down from gener-
ation to generation.
Unfortunately very few legends of the Nantucket
Indians have been preserved, and, however difficult
it is to account for this paucity of legendary lore, the
fact remains.
The following legends of the Nantucket Indians are
all that the writer has, after much searching, been
enabled to find. The first, concerning the creation of
Nantucket as an island, is very interesting:
Once upon a time there lived on the Atlantic coast a
giant who used Cape Cod for his bed. One night, being
restless, he tossed from side to side till his moccasins were
filled with sand. This so enraged him that, on rising in the
morning, he flung the offending moccasins from his feet,
one alighting to form Martha's Vineyard, while the other
became the since famous island of Nantucket. ^
' The Glacier's Gift, Eva C. G. Folger.
2 17
i8 Nantucket
With regard to the primeval discovery of the island
of Nantucket by the Indians the following legend is
interesting (as all legends are), and it was related by
the aborigines to the early English settlers, soon after
their arrival:
In former times, a good many moons ago, a bird, ex-
traordinary for its size, used often to visit the south shore
of Cape Cod, and carry from thence in its talons a vast
number of small children. Maushope, who was an Indian
giant, as fame reports, resided in these parts. Enraged
at the havoc among the children, he, on a certain time,
waded into the sea in pursuit of the bird, till he had crossed
the Sound, and reached Nantucket. Before Maushope
forded the Sound, the island was unknown to the red men.
Maushope found the bones of the children in a heap under a
large tree. He, then, wishing to smoke his pipe, ransacked
the island for tobacco; but finding none, he filled his pipe
with poke — a weed which the Indians sometimes used as a
substitute.
Ever since this memorable event, fogs have been frequent
on the Cape. In allusion to this tradition, when the abo-
rigines observed a fog rising, they would say, "There comes
old Maushope's smoke. "^
(Here the legend unfortunately ends.)
In approaching the consideration of the Nantucket
Indians, the following beautiful legend^ cannot be
passed over in silence, as it reveals the fact that self-
sacrifice and the tender passion are not limited in their
influence to any race or color, but are the hallowed
' Col. Mass. Hist. Soc, vol. v., First Series, p. 57.
' A worthy poetic setting of this legend was published by The Inquirer
and Mirror nearly forty years ago, from the pen of Miss Charlotte P.
Baxter. It was republished in the Inquirer of January 21, 191 1, and
the poetic quotations in this chapter have been taken from it.
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 19
heritage of mankind. Such a record deserves a fore-
most place in any associated local history. The in-
cident referred to is supposed to have occurred about
1630, or, as Dr. Ewer suggested, about thirty years
before the arrival of the white men.
Wauwinet was the sage and beloved Sachem of the
northeastern section of the island. He had one
daughter, Wonoma, —
The loveliest and the gentlest,
and they were devoted to each other.
Well she knew the art of healing;
Skilled was she in all the uses
Of the herbs that grew around them.
And whenever from the waters
Spoke the voice of the Great Spirit,
She could tell unto her people
What the words were, and the meaning.
Fever had broken out among the natives of the
southwestern section of the island, which was under the
dominance of the chief, Autopscot, and he feared that
his people would be swept away by the rapid spread
of the pestilence. In his extremity he thought of the
fair and graceful Wonoma, Wauwinet's daughter, and
knowing she possessed the knowledge of a great medi-
cine-man, he despatched one of his maidens, named
Wosoka, to speed to Wonoma,
Praying her to come and save them.
From the cruel, blasting Fever.
Wonoma, always delighting to do good, accompanied
the little maid back to her stricken people, and, in a
little time, the plague was stayed, and she healed and
20 Nantucket
comforted those who would have died but for her skill-
ful and kindly help. By her skill, her winsomeness,
and her sympathy she won the hearts of all the natives,
and, when the time of her departure came, they begged
her to remain with them, so that they might show their
gratitude,
For the boon of Life She gave them.
Then the brave Autopscot pleaded, not only for his
people, but for himself, that she should not go from
them, and he ended by eloquently and fervently de-
claring his love for her; and Wonoma, deeply touched,
smilingly replied:
That because she loved his people
But more truly loved their leader,
She would come again among them, —
Come again to go not from them.
Later, the friendly and fraternal feeling which had
long existed between the tribes of Wauwinet and Autop-
scot gradually changed to feelings of anger and hatred
in consequence of some petty differences as to the
dividing line between their respective territories. A
feud was generated and bloodshed was threatened
between the contending parties. Wauwinet and his
braves, in solemn council, had agreed upon a subtle
plan for overcoming their enemies; but Wonoma had
overheard the deliberations of the war-council, and
resolved to save her lover at all hazards. When her
people were asleep she stole out of her wigwam, and,
securing a canoe, rowed through the darkness, with a
prayer in her heart to the Father of all mercies that
she might be enabled to save him who was now dearer
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 21
to her than even her own people. Over sea and land
she hurried on, her feet bleeding and weary, and when
she arrived at her destination she was completely ex-
hausted. When she had found him whom her heart
desired, she told him what she had heard, and leaving
her in charge of some of the maidens to rest, Autopscot
called his people together, and bade them to be prepared
to receive the enemy on the morrow.
When, next day, Wauwinet and his braves proceeded
to attack the enemy unawares, and found them armed
and ready to receive them, instead of imprepared as
he had expected, he simply turned around, and, with
his warriors, retraced his footsteps to his own possessions.
On the following evening, as Wauwinet stood in
deep thought at the door of his wigwam, an oncoming
footstep aroused him, and, bending courteously, Autop-
scot stood before him, and thus addressed the father
of his love :
Oh, my father! Oh, most noble!
Dark have been the days about us,
And still darker have the nights been ; —
In our hearts the darkest hatred.
Hear me speak, Oh mighty father !
For the love I bear Wonoma, —
For the sake of both our people,
May there not be peace between us?
Wauwinet 's brow was clouded with anger as Autop-
scot spoke, but graduall}'- the frown relaxed, and when
the brave young chief had finished, the elder was silent
for a time, and thus replied in tones of friendly feeling:
. . . Oh, my son, Autopscot,
Great has been the lesson taught me,
22 Nantucket
That I, myself, am not almighty, —
That there is a power beyond me,
Unto which I have to yield me.
Great the love I bear Wonoma,
And if she so truly loves you,
There should only be between us
Words and thoughts that are most friendly.
When Wauwinet had thus spoken, the two chiefs
grasped each other by the hand in mutual affection,
and, before they parted, they amicably arranged be-
tween them the land which had caused their dispute,
and while pledging themselves to enduring peace,
Wauwinet gladly sanctioned the union of Wonoma and
Autopscot. From that day to this peace has reigned
over and blest the island of Nantucket.
In his interesting Talks about Old Nantucket, the late
Christopher Coffin Hussey reproduces a legend of curious
interest, connected with Abram Quary, the well-known
Indian half-breed.
When the great sickness of 1764, elsewhere alluded to,
carried off the Indians, from some cause, perhaps from the
action of some deep-lying law of the connection between
all animal life, the blue-fish, which had been plenty, sud-
denly disappeared from the waters around the island.
The Indian said, "When the houses of the red-men are
laid low, the blue-fish will return." Whether from mere
coincidence or nature's law it was so. Not far from the
time of Abram's death, the blue-fish reappeared.
The writer goes on to say:
I distinctly remember hearing two men say that there
had been taken at Madeket that afternoon, two blue-fish,
the first that, with possibly an occasional exception, had
been taken for nearly three quarters of a century.
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 23
Since, with varying seasons, they have always been more
or less plenty.
On one occasion, Michabo, the Great White One,
the Spirit of Light of the Dawn or the East, had
an offering made to him, (by his subjects on Martha's Vine-
yard), and, filling his great hopuonk or pipe, he sat down
in front of his "den, " and enjoyed this huge smoke. After
taking his fill of this diversion, he turned over the bowl,
and knocked the ashes from it, and as they were carried
by the wind to the eastward, they fell in a heap and formed
the island of Nantucket which was known as the "Devil's
Ash Heap.'"
Finally
the natives of the Elizabeth islands say that the Devell
was making a stone bridge over from the main to Nanamesit
Island, and while he was rowling the stones and placing
them under water, a crab catched him by the fingers, with
which he snatched up his hand and flung it towards Nan-
tucket, and the crabs breed there ever since. ^
THE DISCOVERY OF THE ISLAND
The date of the original discovery of the island of
Nantucket by white men is still a moot point, although
there can be little doubt that many of the adventurous
navigators of early times sailed past its ocean-laved
shores, without deigning however, to pay it a visit, or
preserving a descriptive record for the benefit of pos-
terity. What does history say about these ancient
' Mrs. M. A. Cleggett Vanderhoop, in New Bedford Standard, 1904.
* Memoranda of Naushon, by Wait Winthrop, 1702. For the last
two legends the writer is indebted to Dr. C. E. Bank's admirable
History of Martha's Vineyard.
24 Nantucket
mariners? Erik the Red, a Norwegian, born a.d. 950,
and the discoverer of Greenland, was probably the
first white man who visited the American continent.
Bjarne Herjulfson, voyaging to Greenland, in 986,
had sailed too far south, and, in retracing his route,
sighted land at three points. He did not, however,
attempt to go ashore. It has been confidently deter-
mined that the land he saw on each occasion was the
American coast, and that the first land he observed was
some part of New England; the second, Nova Scotia;
and the third, Newfoundland.
Leif Erikson, son of Erik, left Norway A.D. 1000,
sailing to Greenland. Having heard of Bjarne's
experiences, he resolved to investigate the lands previ-
ously seen by him. He succeeded in discovering New-
foundland, thence proceeded to Nova Scotia, and finally
reached New England, where he remained during the
winter of looo-i He sailed for Greenland early in
the latter year.
In what part of New England did he spend the
winter? On what portion of New England did he
bestow the name "Vinland"? If an answer had been
possible to these two questions, much argument and
speculation might have been spared; but so far no
correct answer is possible, as there are not sufficient
facts to warrant a determination of either question.
It has been surmised and alleged that the island of
Nantucket was the "Vinland" of Leif, and, perhaps,
as much has been said about the "basin of the Charles
River": but who knows?
Leif is said, and with much probability, not only to
have visited Nantucket, but to have bestowed the
name of Nauticon upon it, and, if this is so, it seems
corroborative that the name Nautican is that applied
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 25
to the island by Sir Ferdinand Gorges {circa 1630),
and Na/ztican in Hough's book, under date 1641. In
all likelihood the name Nauticon was merely a Norse
approximation to the original Indian name of the
island, viz.: Natocket, meaning "The far away land,"
or "The far away land at sea" (literally, "The place
of the land that is far off").^
A circumstantial account of Leif Erikson's voyaging
and of the Norse discovery of America is given in the
Norse Saga, — the Flate-yar-bok, and the Hauks-bok.
These accounts were subsequently confirmed by Adam of
Bremen, in the History of Bremen Church, etc., and in the
MSS. of numerous historians from the eleventh to the fif-
teenth century ; but the conjecture is not adequately sub-
stantiated by facts to warrant a conclusion, and it seems
impossible in this age to divest the ancient story of the
cloud of myth and mystery which surrounds it.
Numerous accounts are subsequently given of Nor-
wegian and Icelandic navigators who reached the
shores of America from time to time, but they have
left no records of importance, and history has profited
little by their ocean- wanderings.
From 1347 to 1496 history records little of interest
concerning voyages to North America, until June 24th
of the latter year, when John Cabot, commissioned by
King Henry VII. of England, arrived at Labrador.
Ridpath declares that "this was the real discovery of
the American Continent." Columbus never had his
foot on North American soil, and there is not a shred of
proof that Amerigo Vespucci made his vaunted voyage
in 1497, with the exception of his own ipse dixit, which
can be readily controverted.*
' H. B. Worth, Nantucket Hist. Assoc, vol. ii., Bull. 6, p. 290.
= Vide Winsor's Narrative and Critical History of America, ii., 137, 142.
26 Nantucket
Cabot obtained a patent from the King "for the
purpose of discovering unknown lands in the eastern,
western, and northern seas." His son Sebastian ac-
companied him, and, in 1497-1498, they cruised along
the coast of America from Florida to Labrador. The
claim of the English Government to Nantucket, Martha's
Vineyard, and the Elizabeth Islands was based upon the
voyages of the Cabots.
Nantucket, however, looms out of mythland and
into genuine history in June or July, 1602. In one of
these months — it is not certain which — there landed
upon its shore at Sankaty Head, Bartholomew Gosnold,
an English mariner, accompanied by some thirty
sailors, who were en route for Virginia, seeking a new
plantation.
In May, 1605, Captain Weymouth is said to have
"become entangled among the Nantucket shoals,"
and in 1620, Captain Dermer certainly visited the
island. ^
AMERICAN-INDIAN PLACE-NAMES IN NANTUCKET ISLAND'
Agamy or Accomac, signifying "land on the other side,
or beyond the water." The term was apparently
applied to the plain on the western side of Hummock
Pond.
Ahapahant or Ahapachonsett, a tract of land on the
western side of Squam Pond, referred to in a deed of
1667. A large Indian village was in its vicinity.
^ Drake's Nooks and Corners of New England, p. 324.
* While the large majority of these Amerind place-names is copied
from the writer's work entitled Dictionary of the American- Indian Place
and Proper Names in New England, he is nevertheless indebted for aid
to other sources, and especially to the list compiled by Mr. H. B. Worth
in Bulletin No. 6, vol. ii., of the Nantucket Historical Association's
Papers.
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 27
Aquidness Neck, in the neighborhood of Shimmo, now-
known as Abram's Point. It was known as Aquitnet
Point in 1722, and the adjacent land was named
Aquidnose tract.
Aqunoonogqutut. a bound-mark mentioned in deed of
January 9, 1668. It was on the property of Nicor-
noose, and has been translated as "the hole where a
stone stands."
AsHiMMO, same as Shimmo, q. v. It means "a spring."
1668.
AsTiMMOOST tract, mentioned in deed of June 5, 1677.
BococHico. Main, Federal, and Broad streets bounded a
section of Nantucket town so-called. It was laid out
in 1744, and the word probably means "near to or
next the harbor."
BoGUE. "The end of Coatue Peninsula, across the harbor
entrance from Brant Point." — H. B. W.
Canopache, east end of Nantucket. "A place of peace."
Chapomis and Chappapemiset, situated between Surfside
and Tom Never's Head. Chappapemisset was alluded
to as "the great valley" in 1691; also in a deed of
July I, 1690.
Coatue Neck or Coweightuet. This neck and point was
given to Edward Starbuck by Nicornoose "out of
free, voluntary love" on January 5, 1660. It was
called "Coretue" in the deed. It means "At the
pine- woods" which were then located there. The
point was also known as Nauma, meaning "Long
Point." — O. Macy, Coatue is also called "Coddude"
in a deed of 1690.
Cocyeania, the name of an unidentified valley mentioned
in deed of 1687.
CoNSUE, a name distinguishing some meadows at the south
end of Union Street. It may mean "a long miry
place."
CosKATA Pond, and Beach. The name is applied to the
section of Great Point north of Wauwinet, which
2S Nantucket
contains the pond. The derivation of the word is prob-
ably from aboriginal words signifying "at the broad
woods, " which are stated to have existed in the locaHty.
The word has also been written Coskaty and Koskata.
CoTACKTA or CoTOCHTA represents a tract southwest from
Wauwinet where there is a large bowlder.
Hashkinnit-chaopket, a bound-mark of Nicornoose's
territory mentioned in deed of January 9, 1668.
Hummock Pond, a corruption for Nanahumack.
Kachkesset, a tract on the west side of Hummock Pond,
where John Swain (the proprietor) and his father had
their first residences on the island. The name means
"at the beginning."
Kestokas Field, a tract mentioned in deed of 1715.
Koskata Head, vide Coskata.
KoTGET, a term used for Muskeget Island. De Laet's
map, 1630.
Lakeutta, mentioned in deed of July 6, 1751.
Madeket.
Madaket, the west end section of Nantucket, and harbor.
Maddaket, The word Madaket usually means "bad
Madaquet. land."
Maddequet Harbor.
Mattaket.
Madequecham Pond, at east of Surfside, on south shore.
Maddequecham Pond.
Mattaquitchame Pond.
Mattaquitcham, applied to "land at west side of Matta-
quitcham Pond," 1692.
Mamre, a tract mentioned in deed of 1690.
Mana, vide Mona. Spotso's deed, 1692.
Mardadpoquehy, a boggy tract near Masquetuck. Polpis.
Mascotuck Neck, west side of Polpis Harbor. This neck
was reserved by Thomas Mayhew when he sold the
island to the settlers. The name has been transferred
from the river flowing into the harbor and means
"Reed River."
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 29
Masquetuck, same as Mascotuck, and Quaise.
Mashquttoohk River. Polpis. "Reed River." Deed
January 9, 1668.
Mashquaponitib, a bound-mark of Nicornoose's territory,
1668.
Masquopack or Masquopeck Creek, running through
Pocomo Meadows. It means "Reed Creek land."
Deed, 1687.
Mattaquatcham, same as Madequecham, q. v. Deed,
1690.
Mekinnoowake, a bound-mark of Wauwinet's territory.
MiACOMET Pond, west of Surf-Side. Means "at the meet-
ing-place."
Miacomet Village.
MioxES, two small ponds near Surfside. The word is a
diminutive of Miacomet, and means " the little meeting-
place."
MoNA or Moona: vide Mana. A tract "on the 'Sconset
Road, south of the second milestone." There is "a
well at Mona" mentioned as a bound-mark in a deed
of 1692. The word means "deep," and may refer to
the well.— H. B. W.
MoNOMOY, a large tract in the vicinity of "the Creeks,"
opposite Nantucket, on the other side of the harbor.
The word means "black earth or soil."
fMusKEGAT Island, west of Nantucket.
JMusKEGET Island. Possibly "place of grass-land."
MusKEGET Channel.
Myacomet, same as Miacomet, g. v.
Nanahumacke. Petty sachem's name. He owned the
neck which bears his name, of which Hummock
is a corruption, and it has been transferred to the
pond.
Nanakumas (Gov. Winthrop).
Nantucket (Natocket). "The far away land," or "the
land far away at sea." — H. B. W.
Naphchecoy. Sankaty. (0. Macy.) Vide Sankaty.
30 Nantucket
Nashawomank Neck, near No-Bottom Pond. Meaning
said to be, "an enclosed place in the midst of the
swamp." — H. B. W.
Nashayte-Neck, Polpis; also known as Swain's Neck.
It means "land between two branches of a tidal
river."
Natuckett. Nantucket. Mass. Bay Col. Rec, vol. iv., p.
199.
Nauma, another name for Coatue Point. "Long Point." —
O. Macy. Now called " Great Point."
Nebadier or Napaneah Pond, east of Surfside. A bound-
mark, 1668.
Nobadeer Pond.
NoPQUE. Smith's Point, at the western extremity of the
island. It means "the farthest point." It was
formerly used as a landing place by the Martha's
Vineyard Indians, who were known as Noapogs or
Noapx, — meaning "the far away people," — during
their intercourse with the Nantucketers.
OccowA Tract. Plainfield, Nantucket. 1752.
OcCAWA, name of Indian village, and place of meeting-
house.
Oggawame or Oukawoom. Deed, June 5, 1752.
Okormaw.
Orkawa. Deed, 1751.
OuGQUAHQUAM. A marshland in Shimmo near bowl-
ders.
Pacummohquah Neck, same as Pocomo. 1662.
Pasocha Valley, near Chappapemiset : "a detached
place." July i, 1690.
Peedee Village, southeast of Sesachacha Pond.
Penetahpah Creek, near Shimmo.
Poatpos Creek. Polpis? 1684.
PocHiCK Shoal, off Siasconset.
PocHic Rip, off Siasconset.
PocoY, a tract east of Hummock Pond, signifying "clear or
open."
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 31
PocoMO, a head and tract northeast of Polpis Harbor.
"A clear fishing-place."
PoDPis, same as Polpis. Mass. Hist. Soc. Col.
PoKAMQUOH Neck. Deed, July 19, 1673.
Polpis Village, about equidistant from Nantucket and
Wauwinet.
Polpis Harbor.
PoNCAMMOONCOE Neck, Same as Pacummoquah and Po-
como, 1662.
Popsquatchet, or Mill Hills, south of Nantucket.
PoQUOMOCK Neck, east of Nantucket, same as Pocomo.
Deed, 1671.
Pquaopuackus, a tract in Gibbs's Swamp.
Potcomet Tract, same as Pottacohannet.
Pott ACOH ANNEX Tract. Named after old sachem of
Tuckernuck.
QuAiSE, another name for Masquetuck, meaning "the end
or point."
QuAYZ, same as Quaise.
QuANATA, a bluff or hill on the east side of Orange Street.
"A long hill."
QuiDNET, probably a contraction for Aquidnet or Aquit-
net. "At the point." It is situated south of
Wauwinet.
Sanckatuck, same as Sankaty. Deed, Nov. 3, 1691.
Sankaty Head, north of Siasconset, where the light-
house stands. Derivation uncertain.
Sankoty Head.
Sachacha Pond, north of Sankaty. Derivation uncer-
tain.
Sasacacheh Village, same as Sachacha. Mass. Hist.
Soc. Col.
Sasagachah Pond. Deed, 1745.
Seanakonkonet, a bound-mark near Toupche Pond.
1668.
Sesachacha.
. Sesachaca Pond, same as Sachacha.
32 Nantucket
Shaukimmo Tract, north shore. — Governor Winthrop.
Shawkemo Tract, north shore, "middle field of land." — ■
O. Macy.
Shawkemo Hills and Creek. Deed, 1673.
Shaukimnes, same as Shawkemo. Mass. Hist. Soc. Col.
Shimmo Point and Shore, same as Ashimmo. "A spring."
Shimmoah, Indian village.
Siasconset. "Near the great bone." — H. B. W.
SisiCKECHAR, same as Sachacha. Deed, 1682.
Squam, a contraction for Wunnisquam, 1668. It may mean
"at the top of the rock," or "beautiful water."
{Squatesit, applied to a place where an Indian meeting-
house stood. — Governor Winthrop.
Squotesit. It has not been identified.
Stirvakenishoos, a spring denoting a boundary at Mas-
quetuck, 1678.
Tautemco, the south part of Hummock Pond.
Tawtemco.
Tautemeo, "the west sea called Tautemeo." — Z. Macy.
Tawnatpeinse, a tract near No-Bottom Pond.
{Tetankimmo, "a spring." — Governor Winthrop.
Tetaukimmo, "a place north of second milestone on
Siasconset Road."— H. B. W.
TouPCHE, a small pond on south shore.
TucKANUCK Island, west of Nantucket. The original
word was Petockenock, signifying "a round cake of
bread." De Laet, 1630.
TUCKERNUC.
TUCKERNUCK.
Wagutuquab Pond, same as Waquettaquage. Deed, 1671 .
Wamasquid, an unidentified locality where there was a
meeting-house in 1674. — H. B. W.
Wammasquid. — Governor Winthrop.
Wannacomet, district on north side of island. 1664.
"Beautiful field."
Wannasquam, same- as Squam. 1751. "Beautiful water
or rock."
Legends and Amerind Place-Names 33
Waquettaquage, usually applied to a pond, but should
be a tract. Deed, 167 1.
Waquittaquay.
Waqutuquaib, applied to ponds north of head of Hum-
mock Pond.
Waunashqua, same as Wannasquam.
Wauwinet, village at head of harbor, named for old
sachem of district.
Weecodnoy, the rim of land between Sachacha Pond
and the ocean.
Weequodnoy.
Weeweder Pond, at south shore; from its shape, meaning
"a pair of horns." — Macy.
Wequitaquage, same as Waquettaquage. A bound-
mark in 1660.
Wesko, site of Nantucket town, meaning "a white stone."
"Indian Bulletin," 1867.
Wesquo, tract in east section of island.
WoNNASHQUOON, same as Wannasquam.
THE NANTUCKET INDIANS^
The red-man trod thy hills,
His thirst slaked at thy rills
In days of yore;
His cattle grazed the plain.
His lowing herds' refrain
Sounded in mingled strain
From shore to shore.
Ofttimes, at close of day,
He hummed his own low lay,
Along his sandy way
Beside the sea:
' Condensed from Centennial Ode (in memory of Abram Quary),
by the late Samuel Haynes Jenks.
34 Nantucket
Taking his finny prey,
He feasted daintily
By the soft evening ray,
In wildness free.
Now softly doth he sleep
Beside the bubbHng deep, —
The whispering foam;
His life-work fully done,
Its battle ably won,
With dreams of setting sun
To lure him home.
Secure he rests from harm
On the Great Spirit's arm,
With upturned face.
Where still at eventide,
His soul to God alUed,
He rests in all his pride,
Last of his race.
Here the white-crested wave
Doth in its beauty lave,
And vigil keep:
Madly the wild winds rave
Within each secret cave,
Where the lone Indian brave
Sleeps his last sleep.
CHAPTER III
THE ABORIGINES
A CONCENSUS of modem scientific opinion favors the
belief that the so-called American Indian race repre-
sents the autochthonous people or aborigines of the
great American continent. Referring to the origin of
the American Indians, Professor Pritchard says:
The era of their existence as a distinct and insulated
race must probably be dated as far back as that time
which separated into nations the inhabitants of the Old
World, and gave to each branch of the human family its
primitive language and individuality.
The origin of the Amerinds of America has still to be
sought amid the sources of the various races of mankind
from primeval times.
The Indian tribes of New England belonged to the
great Algonquian Confederacy — the most widely ex-
tended of all the North American Indians, their terri-
tory stretching along the Atlantic coast from Labrador
to PamHco Sound, and westward, from Newfoundland
to the Rocky Mountains.
The three principal Massachusetts tribes were the
Massachusetts or Naticks, the Nipmucks, and the
Wampanoags, the latter under the dominance of Mas-
sasoit when the Pilgrims arrived, and, at that time, the
third greatest nation in New England.
35
36 Nantucket
The island of Nantucket, when first settled by the
whites, was occupied by two tribes whose names have
not been preserved. One occupied the west end of the
island, and was supposed to have come from the main-
land by way of Martha's Vineyard. The other lived
at the east end, and is said to have come direct from
the mainland. The two tribes were independent and
were, at a time, hostile to each other. The tribe which
came from Martha's Vineyard was subject to the
Wampanoags. ^
With regard to the number of Indians occupying
the island when the whites arrived the statements vary
considerably, some writers alleging 3000, others 1500,
and some still less. There is some difficulty in forming
a correct estimate, but it is known as a fact that they
only numbered about 360 before they became victims
to the epidemic which destroyed so many of them.
When Nantucket was purchased, in 1659, by the
colonists, there were two chief sachems, Wanackma-
mack and Nicomoose (acting probably for Wauwinet),
and at least two other sachems, Autopscot (or Atta-
pehat) and Potconet or Pottacohannet, — besides a few
petty sachems, — governing all the Indians on Nan-
tucket and Tuckemuck. It may be assumed that at this
time Wauwinet was old and feeble, and that his eldest
son, known as Nicomoose, acted as his deputy, inas-
much as among several of the earliest deeds we find
Nicomoose signing as sachem, and there are no signa-
tures by his father. Mr. Zaccheus Macy, in his valu-
able letter to the Massachusetts Historical Society dated
October 2, 1792, ^ mentions Wauwinet as living when the
settlers arrived, but alludes to him as "the old sachem."
' Handbook of American Indians, vol. ii., p. 26.
* Vide Macy's History of Nantucket.
The Aborigines 37
Among the Indian tribes there were generally one or
two sachems who controlled all the others. These
were known as chief or head sachems, and they ex-
ercised absolute control. Such in Nantucket were
Wanackmamack and Wauwinet or the latter's son. and
successor, Nicomoose.
According to Zaccheus Macy, Wanackmamack's
territory represented the southeast of the island and
was bounded by a line running from Toupchue or
Toupche Pond in the south, northward, roughly to
Gibbs's Pond, and so over toward Podpis Swamp, and
then eastward to Sesacacha Pond.^
Wanackmamack had one son, Saucoauso or Jeptha,
who married Eastor.
Saucoauso had two sons, Cain and Abel.
Cain had one daughter, Jemima, who married James
Shay, Shea, or Shaa.
Abel had two sons, Ben Abel and Eben Abel.
Wanackmamack died before June 9, 1682, because
his son, Saucoauso, on this date, "having understood
that his father Wanackmamack now deceased, had
granted [to] English pasturage on east end of island,
also sells same."
Wauwinet's boundary line adjoined that of Wanack-
mamack on the north, extending due north to Coatue
and Nauma, westward to Wesco (now Nantucket), and
hence almost due south to Weeweder Pond.
Wauwinet had two sons, Isaac or Nicornoose (also
known as Nickanoose), and Waupordongga, and one
daughter, Wonoma, who married Autopscot.
Nicomoose had two sons, Joshua and Isaac Wau-
winet, and one daughter, Askommopoo, by his wife.
' These and the boundaries of the other sachems' property are clearly
delineated on Dr. Ewer's map of Nantucket.
38 Nantucket
Askommopoo married Spoospotswa, known as " Spotso."
Nicornoose forsook his wife and by another woman
had two sons, Wat and Paul Noose,
Joshua Nicornoose was so disgusted by his father's
leaving his mother that he left home altogether, and
did not return until after an absence of over fifty years,
when he claimed his inheritance. This was, after some
delay, restored to him.
Autopscot's jurisdiction extended over the south-
west of the island from Weeweder Pond northerly to
Monomoy, and then westward to the Popsquatchet
hills and to Hummock Pond.
Autopscot had a son, Harry Poritain, or Beretan, by
Wonoma, his wife, who was the daughter of Wauwinet.
Harry Poritain had a son named Isaac Masauquet.
Masauquet had a son named Peter.
Peter had a son known as Lame Isaac, who ceded
the last rights of his sachemdom.
Autopscot had also grandchildren named Tashama,
of whom more anon.
Potconet's (or Pottacohannet's) dominions are im-
certain, and there is some doubt as to their limitations.
It is at least certain that he was sachem of the adjacent
island of Tuckemuck, but Zaccheus Macy, in his well-
known letter, states that his bounds extended from
Madaket down eastward to Wesko and Capaum Pond,
thus lying north of Autopscot's possessions, and that
they also included the western coast. Moreover, Dr.
Ewer's map — probably based upon the information
supplied by Macy — delineates the northwestern section
of the island as having belonged to Potconet; but no
proof is in evidence, and although it seems reasonable
to suppose that some sachem must have represented
this section of the island, no deed has been found to
The Aborigines 39
cover it. Macy also asserts that Potconet sold all his
rights to the English settlers, save those reserved and
secured to some of the old natives. The sections re-
served — known as the Hoights and Jafets — were in
the neighborhood of Wannacomet or Capaum Pond.
Be this as it may, from a footnote to Hough's -Nan-
tucket Papers, it appears that, on February 20, 1661,
Wanackmamack, head-chief of Nantucket, sold to
Tristram Coffin, Sr., Peter Coffin, Tristram Coffin, Jr.,
and James Coffin, for £10, half of the island of Tucker-
nuck — one half down, and the other, when Thomas
Mayhew decides who is the proper owner.
Potconet or Pottacohannet had two sons, Akeamong,
or Ahkeiman, and Jacob.
Why did neither of these sons claim his rights until
1672 — a period of eleven years? Was Potconet living
in 1661? These questions have still to be answered,
although the writer has unsuccessfully sought in every
direction for a satisfactory reply.
In the Registry of Nantucket Deeds, under date
Jime 20, 1672, is the following entry:
Ahkeiman laying claim to part of Tuckanuck his claim
thereto is found no other but as he was a duke or principal
man upon Nantucket; the Nantucket Sachems, together with
his father, having sold Tuckanuck, it is ordered that he shall
have such a part or portion of land for his use at Nantucket
of the present Sachems as will become one of such quality,
and a portion of the whales.
On page 211 of the Book of Town Records, dated
March, 1681, there is a record of a bargain between
James Coffin, Peter Coffin, John Coffin, and Stephen
Coffin, and Ackeamong and Jacob, sons of Pottacohan-
net (Potconet), concerning Tuckanuckett, said Ackea-
40 Nantucket
mong and Jacob claiming half of it. The said Coffins
having delivered them forty acres arable land on Nan-
tucket and £5, and disclaiming any right to any whale,
the said Ackeamong and Jacob renounce any claim to
any part of Tuckemuck, reserving liberty to save their
whale that may come ashore.
To this are affixed the marks of Ackeamong and Jacob,
and the signatures of James Coffin and Stephen Coffin,
6th of March, 1681.
Witnessed by William Worth and Richard Pincom
(Pinkham), and acknowledged on the same date before
William Worth, magistrate.
It does not appear, however, why the order of the
Court made in 1672 was not carried out until 1681 —
a period of nine years.
Potconet must, therefore, have died before March
6, 1681, or his sons could not have made the above
agreement; if, indeed, he was not dead before 1672,
when Akeamong made his first claim.
Some confusion has arisen as to the standing of Nana-
huma, who signed the first Indian deed with Nicka-
noose. Mr. H. Barnard Worth' says:
. . . They (the English) obtained a deed, dated June
20, 1659, from the Sachems Nickanoose and Nanahuma,
of a tract comprising the section of Nantucket west of
Hummock Pond.^ George Nanahuma was the sachem of
the Indians that lived in this section but Nickanoose held
some sway over him, and joined in the conveyance.
With this the writer is in perfect accord, with the ex-
ception of Mr. Worth's using the definite instead of the
'Bulletin 3, vol. ii., p. 112, Nantucket Historical Association's
Publications.
^ The western half of Nantucket was sold by Wanackmamack,
February 20, 1661.
The Aborigines 41
indefinite article, as indicated in boldface in the above
quotation. It should read thus: "Comprising a section
of Nantucket west of Hummock Pond"; and further,
"George Nanahuma was a sachem of the Indians, etc."
The force of this will be seen presently.
There is no deed to prove who was the legitimate
sachem, if any existed, of the western section of Nan-
tucket, but a section west of Hummock Pond appar-
ently belonged to Nanahuma, viz., the neck which
bears his name, part of the woods to the north of it,
and he possibly may have had a proprietary interest
in the large plain farther west. This view is borne out
in the "first Indian Deed."
In this deed "the plain" is evidently immediately
west of Nanahuma' s Neck from the use of the word
Acamy in the deed ("on the other side of the water"),
and its locality is further fixed by the description of its
position, which agrees almost mathematically with its
exact actual position.' While the writer is sorry to
differ from Mr. Worth when he says, "the deed of
Nanahuma indicates that at the time he was sachem
over the west end of Nantucket," it might as truly be
said that the co-signer was sachem over the west end
of Nantucket, which we know he never was.
It is very probable that Nanahuma was a subsidiary
or petty local sachem, tributary to Nickanoose, and
that all the property he owned as a sachem was re-
stricted within the limitations already indicated. This
is confirmed by his only subsequent deed, dated June
24, 1678, by which he disposes of "all his interest in
the West plains, and to the Neck or long woods" to the
English. Besides, according to the delimitation of
the other sachems as already given, none of them
• Vide Ewer's map.
42 Nantucket
interfered with those just mentioned as belonging to
Nanahuma.
Indeed, it is doubtful whether Nanahuma at this
time owned the neck which bore his name, for, on July
4, 1664, "all the fields belonging to the Neck" were
sold to the English by Pakapanessa, Jonas Kimmo, and
Harry, son of Wapakowet, who were probably residents
of the identical "plain" which was sold by Nanahuma
in 1659. Moreover, in 1667, we find Nanahuma asso-
ciated with "Mr. Larry Ahkeramo" and Obadiah in a
plea to the Court that "whereas the sachems had sold
the ground they formerly lived on to the English, the
said sachems would not entertain them on the land
unsold." Curiously enough, in 1678, we find George
Nanahuma, alias Cowpohanet, selling to the English
"all his interest in the West plains, and in the Neck or
long woods." There verily seems to have been a
joint stock company in these lands!
If Potconet had no jurisdiction over the northwest
section of Nantucket, and if no evidence is in existence
as to any other sachem holding predominant rights
over it, may it not be suggested that it was mainly
divided up into reallotments for the Indians who were
dispossessed by the requirements of the whites, and
over whom subsidiary sachems or sagamores were ap-
pointed, of whom there were several? Of course, this
is a mere suggestion.
We talk glibly and deprecatingly of the poor Indians
as "mere savages," but the annals of American history
afford but few instances of really nobler men than
Massasoit, Passaconaway, Samoset, and Wanackma-
mack, the controlling head sachem of Nantucket.
Had it not been for the high personal qualities of such
men New England might not have occupied to-day the
The Aborigines 43
proud position which she now holds among the United
States.
The venerable chief Wanackmamack was not only
the pride and glory of his insular braves, but the tried,
true, and loyal friend of the English immigrants. He
was as kind-hearted and judicious as he was courageous
and high principled, and he governed his home-land
so ably and satisfactorily as to justify his memory in
history as an exemplary ruler.
Of Wauwinet little is known but that he was very
old and much respected when the settlers arrived, and
nothing, so far as I have been able to ascertain, has
been said against him.
Nicomoose, his eldest son and successor, has not a
good record, as he deserted his wife and children, and
had two children by another woman.
Beyond the fact that Autopscot was called "a great
warrior and got his land by his bow," and that he per-
manently established peace throughout the island, very
Httle is recorded of him. Nor does history mention
anything concerning Potconet, the sachem ruling the
proximate western islands, with the exception of a
record of the sale of his lands to the settlers, in 1659.
Such were the rulers of Nantucket when the settlers
arrived.
What a revelation the incoming of the whites must
have been to the red men, who had lived on the island,
probably from a very early age, among their own people,
under their own laws, perpetuating their own habits
and customs — living close to Nature — for the most part
in peace and amity — simple in their lives, and knowing
nothing, caring nothing for the external world beyond
them!
Yet, on the arrival of the new people who had come
44 Nantucket
to supplant them, they received them amicably, treated
them justly, and as they treated one another, relying
upon what they recognized as the instinctive and in-
alienable principles of humanity to govern their rela-
tionships and to promote the mutual good and harmony
of all. It is needless to inquire as to who first took
advantage of the racial differences which distinguished
these two peoples, or how the greater intellectuality
and experience of the one eventually overcame the
other, but Time tells the story; and to-day, while the
whites glory in the beauties of, and the opportunities
afforded by their island home, where are the poor
Indians, the aborigines? All gone — melted away like
dewdrops in the sun, and not even one remains to tell
the story of their past history!
When King Philip visited the island in 1665 ^^^
tried to induce the natives to join in his contemplated
war with the English, they emphatically refused to do
so, expressing themselves as perfectly satisfied and
desiring to be at peace with the whites. Indeed, at a
town meeting, on October 10, 1665, Attaychat (Autop-
scot) "signified that himself with all the Tomokom-
moth Indians subject to the EngHsh Government in
Nantucket acknowledge subjection to King Charles II.
This was done in the presence of Metacomet, alias
Philip, Sachem of Mount Hop."
Unfortunately, civilization has too often brought in
its wake habits and customs which have ever proved
degenerative, if not destructive, to the uncivilized races
of the earth, and so they proved to the Indians, who
were sober, industrious, and happy before the settlers
introduced among them the iniquitous "fire-water,"
to the abuse of which they fell a prey. Acting under
its pernicious influence their primitive instincts were
The Aborigines 45
aroused within them, and never afterwards were they
the same people. Discontent soon spread among them,
and litigation in the courts — to which they had equal
access with the whites — became so very frequent that
the records extend from 1673 to 1754.
It is not alleged that alcohol was at the bottom of
all these cases, but that it made the natives excita-
ble, litigious, and dissatisfied is certain, without any
reference to the misconduct and crime which it often
prompted, and which frequently resulted from its in-
fluence. In many cases they found that the courts
decided against them, and they became discouraged.
Moreover, they were astounded at the fastly increas-
ing number of whites on the island (so that offensive
measures were out of the question) , and as a matter of
fact they never could be made to understand that the
execution of a sale-deed of their property involved its
absolute surrender to the purchaser, however many
attempts they made to regain their land.
Mr. Thomas Macy wrote a forceful letter to the
governor, in May, 1676, as to the pernicious effects of
drink upon the natives, but every effort made to miti-
gate the evil by legislative measures failed ; the natives
who craved for it would sacrifice all they possessed,
and one way and another they generally found
means of obtaining it. Fines and whipping were
inflicted for drunkenness and misdemeanors, but the
death-penalty was never exacted except in cases of de-
liberate murder. It is recorded that, between 1704
and 1769, ten natives were executed for capital crimes.'
On the other hand it has been stated that Quibby —
who murdered Harry Gardner — was the first and only
Indian executed in Nantucket since its settlement by
' Obed Macy, opus cit.
46 Nantucket
the whites. Macy's instances, however, seem well
substantiated. ^
While allusion to such misconduct is made with
some reluctance yet facts cannot be concealed, although
the evildoers were always in the minority, but in
justice to the memory of the natives it must be said
that perhaps the majority of them were exemplary in
their lives — many of them pious — and good steady
husbandmen and craftsmen. As a race they have
been much misrepresented, and if revengeful, it was
only when their subduers had treated them cruelly or
unjustly.
Spirited efforts had been made to introduce Christian-
ity among the natives, and the results on Nantucket
were probably more successful than in any other sec-
tion of New England. Thus Barber (in his Historical
Collections, p. 448) says: "Soon after the English had
settled on the island, attempts were made to convert
the Indians to the faith of the Gospel, and, in course of
years, all of them became nominal Christians."
Soon after 1680, all the old sachems who were alive
when the English arrived had passed away, and their
successors reigned in their stead.
As Macy says: "The Indians were instructed in the
mode of fishing practised by the whites, and, in return,
the whites were assisted by the Indians in pursuing the
business." Another writer says: "There is no doubt
that the Natick Indians hunted the whale in canoes, in
a manner somewhat similar to that practised to-day by
the Bow-Headers of the north coast of Siberia." More-
over, the writer has been personally informed by a
gentleman of much culture and experience who knows
as much about the Nantucket whaling industry as any
' Miriam Coffin.
The Aborigines 47
man now alive, that "hunting the whale was well-
known and long practised by the Nantucket Indians."
If any further evidence is deemed necessary it may be
found in the following quotation from Weymouth's
Voyage:
One especial thing in their manner of killing a whale which
they [the Indians] call powdawe, and will describe his form,
how he bloweth up the water, and that he is twelve fathoms
long, and that they go in company with their King, with a
multitude of their boats, and strike him with a bone miade
in the fashion of a harping iron, fastened to a rope, which
they make great and strong of the bark of trees which they
veer out after him; that all their boats come about him,
and as he riseth above water, with their arrows they shoot
him to death. When they have killed him and dragged
him to shore, they call all their chief lords together, and
sing a song of joy, and these chief lords, whom they call
sagamores, divide the spoil and give to every man a share ;
which pieces so distributed they hang up about their houses
for provision, and when they boil them they blow off the
fat, and put in their pease, maize, and other pulse which
they eat.
There can be no doubt that the Nantucket Indians
joined gladly in the chase of whales, and that they were
fully as dexterous as the whites, not only in securing,
but in dealing with the carcasses afterwards.
The year 1763-64 was, indeed, a sad one for the
Indians of Nantucket, inasmuch as, from August in
the former year to February in the latter, they suffered
from a malignant form of epidemic which, even yet,
has not been identified, although the probability is that
it was either typhus or typhoid fever, smallpox or yellow
fever. Curiously enough, of the English who visited
them daily, caring for and nursing the afflicted natives,
48 Nantucket
not one was affected by the pestilence, which ceased
suddenly, without previous abatement, on the i6th of
February, 1764. Before the epidemic broke out there
were 358 Indians on the island, of whom 222 perished,
leaving only 136 natives to represent the race.^
In 1 791 there were but four male Indians and sixteen
females left on the island, and in 1809 there were only
three or four persons of pure blood and a few of mixed
race.
From 1664 to 1774 the records consist mainly of land
sales from the Indians to the EngHsh; of complaints
of one Indian against another, or others in relation to
land sales, and of controversies about their respective
claims to whales. Within this period also one re-
peatedly notices the names of the successors of the
old sachems, for several generations; but, concurrent
with these, up to 1754, are the records of many attempts
on the part of some of the Indians to regain their lands.
The perusal of these is very interesting, but those
who may desire to obtain a full knowledge of such
matters are referred to the ample and careful reports
given by Mr. Henry B. Worth in the Bulletins of the
Nantucket Historical Association. ^
In 1693 the island of Nantucket, ceded from the
Provincial Government of New York, was incorporated
in the Province of Massachusetts.
NAMES OF SOME OF THE NANTUCKET INDIANS OCCURRING
IN THE REGISTRY OF DEEDS, PETITIONS, ETC.
Wanackmamack, head sachem of Nantucket in 1659.
Wauwinet, aged head sachem of northeastern section.
NicoRNOOSE, successor to Wauwinet.
' Obed Macy, opus cit. * Vide vol. ii., Bulletin 3.
The Aborigines 49
AuTOPSCOT (Attapechat or Attaychat), sachem of south-
western section.
PoTCONET (or Pottacohannet), sachem of Tuckernuck, etc.
Nanahuma, probably a petty sachem.
Harry, a witness, son of Wapakowet.
Wauwinnesit, or Amos, second son of Nicornoose.
Saucoauso, alias Jeptha, son of Wanackmamack.
Joshua Jethro, eldest son of Nicornoose.
Wat Noose, bastard son of Nicornoose.
Paul Noose, bastard son of Nicornoose.
Masauquet, son of Autopscot. ,
Harry Poritain, alias Beretan, son of Masauquet.
Isaac Masauquet, son of Harry Poritain.
AsKOMMOPOO, daughter of Nicornoose and wife of Spotso
or Spoospotswa.
Felix Kuttashamaquah, an interpreter.
Cain, son of Saucoauso, or Jeptha.
Abel, son of Saucoauso or Jeptha.
Ben Abel, son of Abel.
Eben Abel, son of Abel.
Jemima, daughter of Cain, and wife of James Shea.
Pakapanessa, Indian associated with Nanahuma.
Jonas Kimmo, Indian associated with Nanahuma.
Tequamomany, sold lands to English in 1604.
Mekowakim, sold lands to English in 1604.
Peteson, a complainer, 1667.
Larry Akkeramo, a complainer, 1667.
Obadiah, a complainer, 1667.
Wequakesuk, a sachem, 1673.
Isaac Wauwinet, son of Nicornoose, successor of father.
Heattohanen, another name for one of Nicornoose's sons.
Wohwaninwot, another name for one of Nicornoose's sons.
Cowpohanet, another name of Nanahuma.
Spotso, son-in-law of Nicornoose, signed also as Spoos-
potswa.
Sasapana Will, sold land to the English, 1687.
Henry Britten, sachem, 1701.
50 Nantucket
Eastor, wife of Saucoauso, 1709.
JosHiAH or Josiah, son of Spotso.
James Shay, Shea, or Shaa, husband of Jemima.
Esau Cook, an Indian who sold land, 1742.
Isaac Woosco, an Indian who sold land, 1745.
Samuel Chegin, an Indian who sold land, 1747.
Titus Zekey, an Indian who sold land, 1762.
John Jethro, a descendant of Nicornoose.
Abigail Jethro, a descendant of Joshua Jethro, son of
Nicornoose.
Jacob, son of Potconet, 1672.
Ahkeiman, son of Potconet, 1676.
Desire, or Desiah, a partner of Washaman in whales, 1676-
Waquaheso, related to Nicornoose.
Wakeikman, Sessanuquis, Wienakisoo, three associated
Indians, 1678.
Nautakagin, a companion of Nanahuma, 1678.
Quench, an Indian who divorced his wife, 1677.
Mequash, an Indian with whaling rights, 1678.
Machoogen, an Indian burglar, 1677.
Debdekcoat, a fraudulent creditor, 1677.
Shaakerune, an anti-prohibitionist, 1677.
Seikinow, a complainer, 1699-1700.
Titus Mamack, Joshua Mamack, John Mamack, descend-
ants of Wanackmamack.
JouAB, descendant of Wanackmamack.
John Jouab, a disgruntled complainer.
Jonathan, a disgruntled complainer.
James Asab, a disgruntled complainer.
John Tashime (Tashama), a descendant of Autopscot.
John Jethro, a petitioner.
Paul Jouab, a petitioner.
Richard Napanah, a petitioner.
Solomon Zachariah, a petitioner.
Naubgrachas, a petitioner.
Abel Nanahoo, a petitioner.
John Asab, a petitioner.
The Aborigines 51
Barnabas Spotso, sachem.
James Papamoo, son of Barnabas Spotso.
John Quass, the choice of Lakedon Indians for sachem
when they repudiated Ben Abel, the legitimate chief.
Sanchimaish, a witness to Isaac Wauwinet's will.
Abram Tashama, son of John Tashama, 1741.
Old Hannah, a witness.
Ben Jouab, grandson of Pampason, 1752.
Memfopooh, a messenger, 1752.
OowAMASSEN, a witness to Isaac Wauwinet's will, 1670.
Joshua of Chappoquiddick, same as Joshua Jethro, eldest
son of Nicornoose, 1706.
Talagamomos, Keostahhan, Wumoanohquin, Quaquah-
CHOONiT, witnesses to Nicornoose's will, 1668.
Ben Joab Pampushom, a claimant to sachemdom of
Occawa, 1745.
Peter Tuphouse, witness to Pampushom's petition.
Peleg Tuphouse, witness to Pampushom's petition.
David Pompasson, said to have been a grandson of Nicor-
noose.
Samuel Humbrey, a witness to John Jouab's petition, 1752.
Sarah Nesfield, a squaw.
W1LLLA.M Cowkeeper.
Jack Never.
Samcook.
Tooth Harry.
Jobone.
Nakatootanit.
kuhapetaw.
WOSOAK.
Patience, a squaw.
Nanespepo.
Matakeken,
cutuarum.
Coshomadamon.
Zachary.
TOMASO.
52 Nantucket
ROAG.
QuoQUASHA, a squaw.
Waquaquenaway.
Shanapetuck.
Imqueness, Sam, Indian magistrates.
MOAB.
Alewife.
COOTAS.
Damaris, an Indian girl,
Jasper,
aspatchamo.
Kessasum.
"the last roll-call" of the NANTUCKET INDIANS
(Copied from a private Indian Register hitherto
unpublished.)
Peter Mica, died March 28, 1801.
Sarah Gutradge (Goodridge), died April 22, 1801.
Orra Gethro (Jethro), died June 14, 1799.
Isaac Tashmay (Tashama), died November i, 1801.
Abigail Wainer, died November 10, 1801.
Abigail Quary, died September 30, 1806.
Mary Squab, died June 28, 1807.
Abigail Job (Jouab), died October 21, 1808.
MoACA Job (Jouab), died May 7, 1809.
Hannah Joel, died August 27, 18 10.
Abiah Jeffrey, died October 12, 1810.
Hannah Foster, died July 26, 181 1.
Sarah Eeese, died February 16, 1812.
Jemima Tobey, died February 3, 1816.
Mary Abil, died July 21, 18 17.
Eliza Rose (or Ross), died January 22, 1818.
Tabitha Marsh, died March 8, 1820.
Abigail Jethro, died January 16, 1822.
Sarah Tashmay (Tashama), died October 8, 1821.
Molly Morrells, died January 21, 181 7.
Dorcas Honorable
The last pure-blooded Nantucket Indian
Photograph by H. S. Wyer
The Aborigines 53
Mary Warracks, died July 29, 1794.
Abigail Taster (or Tastoo), died April 24, 1808.
Betsy Goodrich, died July 21, 1838, aged seventy-nine
years.
Esther Keeter, died March 23, 1803.
Venus, died December 14, 1789.
Margaret Hunter, died September 30, 1789.
Indian Girl, died November 17, 1784.
Joseph Tobey, died May 22, 1796.
HuLDAH Reefer, died September 30, 1797.
Abram Quary, died November 25, 1854, aged eighty-two
years and ten months.
Darkis Onerable (Dorcas Honorable), died Friday night,
January 12, 1855, at the Asylum, aged seventy-nine
years. Buried from Baptist Church. — The last of
her race !
Petty crimes and misdemeanors on the part of the
Indians — too often caused by " fire-water " — frequently
resulted in producing considerable trouble and annoy-
ance to the proprietors. When the latter found that
the imposition of fines and the infliction of whipping
in graver cases were inadequate to permanently restrain
them, they at length appointed a superior Indian to
undertake the office of superintendent and local magis-
trate, and with considerable success. The officer ap-
pointed was James Shouel, better known as Korduda,
and he soon became a terror to evildoers, his usual
procedure being, when one Indian complained of an-
other, to order both the complainant and the defendant
to be well whipped. This subsequently became known
as "Korduda's law," and in many, if not in most cases,
it was found very effective. He was also in the habit of
having deHnquents whipped for neglecting the cultiva-
tion of their com, for drunkenness, etc.
54 Nantucket
A few other special Indians are referred to in Zaccheus
Macy's well-known letter, viz. : " Old ^sop, ' the weaver,
who was also a schoolmaster; "Old Saul," "a stern-
looking old man"; Richard Nominash and his brother
Sampson and little Jethro, who are described as "very-
substantial and very trusty men"; Zacchary Hoite, a
minister who told his hearers "they must do as he said,
but not as he did!" There were also some members
of the old Hoight and Jafet families, and Benjamin
Tashama, an Indian of strong individuality, to whom
I shall now refer in detail.
Benjamin Tashama, or Tashima, was, perhaps, the
most noted Indian within the bounds of Autopscot,
He was a grandson of Sachem Autopscot, and was
distinguished as a good and worthy man, an esteemed
preacher, and a successful schoolmaster.
A portion of the industrious life of Tashima [says the author
of Miriam Coffin] had been devoted to study; and he had
succeeded, with infinite labor, in adapting his literary
acquirements to the language and capacity of his tribe.
He had nourished the vain hope of preserving the nation
without a cross in its blood, and the language of his people
in its pristine purity. It was a magnificent conception!
The design was worthy of the last, as he was the greatest,
chief of his tribe. He was the last, because none succeeded
him; he was the greatest, for he was the most benevolent.
While few details of his life are known, it is attested
that he latterly lived on the eastern boundary of Gibbs's
Swamp, about forty rods northeast of the fifth mile-
stone on the 'Sconset road. Here, some years ago, the
cellar of his dwelling still remained, and the large stone
which formed the entrance may now be seen in the
rooms of the Nantucket Historical Association.
The Aborigines 55
Here Tashama, often called "the last sachem of
Nantucket," dwelt with his son Isaac and his daughter
Sarah. Benjamin Tashama died in 1770, His brother,
John Tashama, was alive in 1754, when he signed a
petition to the Court. John had one son, Abram,
mentioned by John CofP.n and Abishai Folger in a
report dated May 25, 1743.
Sarah Tashama married Isaac Earop, and on April
27, 1776, a daughter was bom to them. She was
named Dorcas Honorable. When this child grew up,
she became a domestic in the family of Mr. John Cart-
wright, where she lived for many years, and she died
in 1855 at the asylum. She was a full-blooded Indian,
and the very last of her race on Nantucket; and thus,
little more than two centuries from the discovery of the
island, passed away the only remaining one of the aborig-
inal people who had dominated it from time immemorial.
Abram Api Quady, or Quary, a half-breed, who lived
in a hut at Shimmo for many years, died on November
25, 1854, ^^ the age of eighty-two years and ten months,
respected by all who knew him. He was the son of the
notorious Quibby, already referred to, and of Judith
Quary — a half-breed fortune-teller well-known on the
island at one time. Abram, for obvious reasons, chose
to assume his mother's name. A fine portrait in oil
of this dignified old man may be seen in the Nantucket
Atheneum.
It may seem strange that no burial place of the Indi-
ans has been discovered on the island of Nantucket,
so far as I am aware. Skeletal remains and a few
bones have been discovered at one time and another,
and in various places, but I believe no regular place of
Indian burial has ever been found. This may be thus
accounted for, viz.:
k
56 Nantucket
Island Indians usually buried their dead contiguous
to the coast-line, and the progressive erosion of the
coast during two centuries may have possibly washed
such remains into the ocean. This is merely a sugges-
tion, and as I have but few proofs to offer, I am subject
to correction. It is probable, however, that the Indi-
ans buried their dead in the neighborhood of Shawkemo,
Pocomo, Folger's Hill on the Polpis road, at Quaise,
beyond the present water-works, and at or near Mia-
comet. It is recorded that there was a circular burying-
ground for one of the tribes near the headwaters of
Lake Miacomet, and that Benjamin Tashama was
buried there.
An opinion too generally shared, which regards the
American Indian race as consisting of mere savages,
almost inhuman in their ferocity and cruelty, and with-
out a redeeming feature of any kind, is as untrue as it
is unjust. They naturally possessed those character-
istics shared by all unenlightened races of men who
have been deprived of the elevating influences of civil-
ization and a high code of ethics, but a careful study
of their lives and history shows that, according to their
enlightenment, they were actuated by many virtues
which, in superior races, count for dignified manhood
and nobility of mind. In personal bravery and courage
they had few equals and yet they accepted conquest
or punishment with a sublime fortitude and stoicism
which scorned to ask for either life or pardon. Equal-
ity, freedom, and independence constituted the very
atmosphere of their being and, in their dealings with
their own race, the rights of each individual, and his
personal freedom, were universally acknowledged.
Judged from our modem standard the principles of
morality which governed their lives, if of a lower order,
Abram Quary
The last Nantucket Indian half-breed
Photograph by H. S. Wyer~ "^
The Aborigines 57
were yet in keeping with their instincts and their en-
vironment, and they beHeved that "the crimes of the
vicious were punished by the disgrace, contempt, and
danger they ensured for transgressors."
When all that can be said against the Indians has
been spoken, it must be conceded that they embodied
a pure and lofty patriotism, for which they fought and
died like men and true patriots, and although they
had to gradually yield up their possessions and their
homes in the land they loved, and to recede and dis-
appear before the advancing wave of civilization, yet,
as De Forest says: "We may drop a tear over the
grave of the race which has perished, and regret that
civilization and Christianity have ever accomplished
so little for its amelioration."
In the somewhat severe words of Obed Macy, "Their
only misfortune was their connection with Christians,
and their only crime the imitation of their manners."
CHAPTER IV
THE WHITE SETTLERS AND THE SETTLEMENT
The purchase of the island of Nantucket, in 1659,
and its subsequent occupation by the white settlers
form an interesting section of Massachusetts history,
upon which much has been written. From time im-
memorial the island had been inhabited by the abo-
rigines of the country, and was therefore in a primitive
and uncultivated condition when the settlers arrived.
It has been alleged that their motive in selecting such
an insular wilderness as a colony was to escape from
religious persecution in their old home across the ocean,
but such allegations have not been sustained by either
fact or history, and are now utterly discredited.
There cannot be any doubt that, mayhap associated to
some extent with a spirit of adventure, their chief
motive was really nothing more or less than a business
speculation. That they were worthy, brave, and
fearless men cannot be gainsaid, and, as Englishmen,
they had manifestly inherited the grit and endurance
which characterize their race. Then they were doubt-
less impelled by duty to themselves and to their fami-
lies, and not fear of persecution — golden opportunities
and radiant possibilities — which had led them out of
their ancient homes to a new and unknown land.
58
The White Settlers and the Settlement 59
They had seen a vision of hope, freedom, and opportu-
nity beckoning them to a Httle island in the ocean
where the white man's foot had seldom trod, an island
unknown, uncultivated, a wilderness teeming with the
hosts of a barbaric and uncivilized race. Yet they
never hesitated. Taking their lives in their hands,
and with a humble yet sublime trust in God, they
arrived in safety, — dug their new homes in the hill-
sides, wrought like men, and prospered accordingly.
Numbering nineteen persons all told, — a number
increased to twenty-seven later, — these men became the
proprietors of the island of Nantucket, divided and
cultivated the land, and lived with the aborigines in
peace and amity. In less than a hundred years from
its inception in 1690, the whaling industry in Nan-
tucket port became the largest and most famous in the
world.
Not only one, but many volumes would be necessary
to chronicle the experiences and achievements of these
worthy men and their successors, but here a faint
biographical outline of some of them is all that space
will permit.
Facile princeps was Tristram Coffin, a man of
ancient lineage, a strong will, and dominant person-
ality whose activities in many directions ensured the
success of the settlement. He was bom at Brixton,
Devonshire, England, in 1605, and married, in or
about 1630, Dionis Stevens, of the same place. Im-
pelled by a desire, which was very prevalent at the time,
to visit the New World, and to found new plantations
there on an agricultural and stock-raising basis, in 1642,
when he was thirty-seven years old, he emigrated to
America with his wife, five small children, his widowed
mother, and two unmarried sisters. Until 1659, he
6o Nantucket
lived alternately in Salisbury, Haverhill, and Newbury,
Mass. In that year, he came to Nantucket, and made
arrangements for the purchase of the island by a com-
pany which he organized at Salisbury. He returned
to the island with part of his family in 1660,' and there
he lived until his death, which occurred on October 3,
1 68 1, at the age of seventy-six years.
During his entire residence on Nantucket he resided
near Capaum, and for the most part at a house which
he built, and named "Northam." The interests which
he and his sons and sons-in-law represented gave him
power to control to a large extent the enterprises of
the island. ^
He was appointed Chief Magistrate of Nantucket
by Governor Andros in 1667, and again by Governor
Lovelace on June 29, 1671.
Benjamin Franklin Folger, speaking of Tristram
Coffin's relation to the Indians, says:
The Christian character which he exhibited, and which he
practically illustrated in all the varied circumstances and
conditions of that infant colony is analogous to that which
subsequently distinguished the founder of Pennsylvania,
so that the spirit of the one seemed to be but the counterpart
of the other.
The names of more than twelve thousand descend-
ants of Tristram Coffin can be traced. The ramifica-
tions of the family extend to England, to all the British
dominions, and to every State of the Union. ^
Indeed the Coffin family furnishes an exceptionally
good illustration of the persistence of fecundity, for
' Hinchman.
' Lije 0/ Tristram Coffin, Allen Coffin, LL.B., p. 32.
3 Nantucket Inquirer and Mirror, July 22, 1826.
The White Settlers and the Settlement 6i
Tristram Coffin, Sr., had seven children, Peter, his
eldest son, had nine, Tristram, Jr., had ten, and left
177 descendants, James had fourteen, John had eleven,
and Stephen had ten, Tristram's two daughters,
Mary Starbuck and Elizabeth Greenleaf, each had
ten children, a total of seventy-one children in his own
immediate family !
Thomas Macy, often described as "the first settler,"
was a native of Chilmark, Wiltshire, England. It is
stated that he embarked for America "probably in 1635,
but not later than 1639." He occupied a good posi-
tion in the old country, where he was much respected
and prominent. Macy's History says: "He lived in
Salisbury in good repute for twenty years, and acquired
a good interest, consisting of a tract of land, a good
house, and considerable stock."
The allegation that he was compelled to leave Salis-
bury, Essex Co., Mass., on account of having harbored
Quakers, is entirely fictional. He was, however, along
with a number of others, fined ten shillings^ for "en-
tertaining Quakers," in contravention of a law that
was then in force. Furthermore the island of Nan-
tucket had been purchased and deeded before the
charge was made, and Macy had returned to Salisbury
to settle his affairs, and was actually living there in
1664. In addition to this, in a letter written by Joshua
Coffin, the historian, in 1831, he says:
Thomas Macy was a merchant, an enlightened man, and
much too wise to apprehend any danger to his person or
property from any person or persons either legally or ille-
gally. He was certainly a man of fortitude, courage, good
sense, and education.
' Joshua Coffin, quoted by Allen Coffin, LL.B., opus cit., p. 26.
62 Nantucket
During the time he spent on the island, 1659-61,
Macy propitiated the Indians, and opened up negotia-
tions with them on behalf of the other settlers. He
probably lived with Edward Starbuck, who had built
a house at Madeket. From 1661 he lived at Capaum
Pond, near Tristram Coffin.
Later his services on the island were highly appre-
ciated. He was the first Recorder on the island and,
in 1675, was appointed Chief Magistrate. He died at
Nantucket, on April 19, 1682, aged seventy-five years.
Edward Starbuck emigrated from Derbyshire,
England, in 1635, and settled at Dover, N. H. It is
stated that it was at Macy's suggestion that he left
Dover for Nantucket. However this may be, it is
an established fact that he accompanied Macy, with
his family, Isaac Coleman, and James CofBn on their
historic voyage to the island, which was accomplished
in an open boat. Starbuck was a man in easy, if not
affluent, circumstances who had attained a high posi-
tion at Dover and an equally exalted reputation for
worth and probity. He is also represented as having
been "an active, enterprising man, fearless of danger."
In 1660, it is said that he returned to the mainland
where his representations regarding the island induced
some eight or ten families to remove from Salisbury
to Nantucket, thus adding to the number in the little
settlement.
Edward Starbuck was one of the associate members
of the proprietary of the island, and he witnessed the
sachems' deed confirming the sale of the island to the
original purchasers. His wife was Miss Katharine
Reynolds, and their son Nathaniel married Mary
Coffin, the seventh child of Tristram, who was "uni-
versally acknowledged to have been a great woman."
The White Settlers and the Settlement 63
It is recorded that Edward Starbuck died on June 12,
1690, aged eighty-six years. From his son Nathaniel,
and his wife Mary, daughter of Tristram Coffin, have
sprung all the Starbucks in America.
Peter Folger, one of the eariy settlers, was, in
many ways, a very remarkable man. A native of
Norwich, England, where he was bom in, or about, 161 7,
he fell in love with Mary Morrell, who was sailing in
the same ship, and married her soon after their arrival
in 1635. Peter's father and mother accompanied him
to America. His father, John, had married Meribah
Gibbs, in England. He died in Martha's Vineyard in
1660; she died in 1663.
For a time Peter and his wife lived in Watertown
but removed to Martha's Vineyard in 1660. Here he
became acquainted with the Mayhews, and acted as
their surveyor, while he also discharged the duties of
pedagogue. He became proficient in speaking the
language of the Indians on the Vineyard, and in acting
as an interpreter for those who did not understand it.
In 1658, he visited Nantucket (in all likelihood accom-
panied by Tristram Coffin) for the purpose of inspect-
ing the island, and, in 1663, returned there in order to
become a permanent resident.
He later became the most useful man on the island
of Nantucket as, in addition to a large store of general
knowledge which he had accumulated, there was little
in the way of handicraft to which he could not turn his
skill. Not only was he a surveyor but had officiated
as preacher and as schoolmaster; he was an excellent
clerk, and ultimately became keeper of the records on
the island; moreover he interpreted the Indian lan-
guage when required, was betimes an author and a poet,
and acted as miller, blacksmith, and weaver for the
64 Nantucket
settlers. His son Eleazer was appointed shoemaker to
the settlement, and Peter himself was constituted a
half-shareholder with all the privileges that pertain
to such a relationship. He died in 1690, and his de-
scendants, numbering not a few distinguished men and
women, inherited from this grand old settler the gifts
and versatility which he possessed in such marked
degree.
His daughter Abiah, the only child of his that was
born in Nantucket, became the mother of Benjamin
Franklin.
Another distinguished man must be alluded to who,
although not one of the original settlers, was persuaded,
in 1672, to cast his lot among them by the offer of a
share of land to enable him " to carry on the cod-fishing
business." His name was John Gardner, a brother of
Richard Gardner who, since 1666, had been located in
Nantucket. John had a family of twelve children.
From his advent he became prominent in all the
affairs that concerned the welfare of the island, and was
undoubtedly the most capable man among the English
settlers. His administrative power was little short of
genius, and he thrice attained, in defiance of the fiercest
opposition, the office of Chief Magistrate of the island.
Ultimately he secured Governor Dongan's patent,
which made him, with six associates, "One Body Cor-
porate and Politiq to be called by the Name of the
Trustees of the Freeholders and Comonality" of Nan-
tucket. The keenest rivalry for leadership on the
island was generated between Tristram Coffin and John
Gardner, and for several years it pervaded opposing
sections of the people. Although Gardner was success-
ful in the end, peace reigned betw^een the rival chiefs
at last, and Tristram, doughty old warrior though he
The White Settlers and the Settlement 65
was, before his death forgave Gardner, and alluded to
him as his "loving neighbor."
A tie of friendship was also strengthened between
the two families by the marriage which took place in
1686, between Jethro Coffin, the grandson of Tristram,
and Mary, a daughter of Captain John Gardner. •
In 1699, Gardner was appointed Judge of Probate,
an office which he held until his death. Bom in Dor-
setshire, England, in 1624, he died in Nantucket in
1706, aged eighty-two years. He was buried in the
Forefathers' burying-ground, east of Maxcy's Pond.
Christopher Hussey, the son of John Hussey and
Mary Wood, was born in Dorking, Surrey, England.
During his earlier years he resided for some time in
Holland where he fell in love with Theodate, daughter
of the Rev. Stephen Batchilder. When, in due time,
he proposed to her, her father would only give his con-
sent to the alliance on condition that they should both
accompany him to America, which they ultimately
agreed to do, arriving in Boston on the ship William and
Francis, in 1632.
Christopher Hussey became one of the original set-
tlers in Hampton, New Hampshire, and from 1636
went through the various grades of promotion until,
finally, he was elected as one of the Selectmen. In 1639
he was made a Justice of the Peace, holding the office
for several years; later he was appointed Town Clerk,
and one of the first deacons of the church. In 1659,
he became one of the purchasers of Nantucket. Later
on he pursued the occupation of sea-captain.
From the evidence of Joshua Coffin and the Town
Records of Hampton, N. H,, there can be little doubt
that he died on March 6th, and was buried at Hamp-
ton, March 8, 1686. Although he was not one of the
66 Nantucket
resident or active settlers of Nantucket, his eldest son,
Stephen, to some extent made up for his deficiencies
by residing in Nantucket, and by marrying a fair
Nantucketer, Martha Bunker, on October 8, 1676.
Stephen died on the island on February 2, 171 8, in
his eighty-eighth year, leaving seven children.
Stephen Greenleaf was the son of Edmund Green-
leaf who came to America in 1635, and settled at New-
buryport, Mass. Stephen was bom in 1630 and married
Elizabeth Coffin, daughter of Tristram and Dionis
Coffin.
"He was one of the original proprietors of Nantucket,
and authority says, 'a religious man.'" He was a
soldier by profession and had had considerable experi-
ence in the Indian wars. He was Ensign and Lieutenant
in 1686, and Captain in 1690. He was also represent-
ative to the General Court in 1676, a commissioned
magistrate and overseer of the poor, and a deacon over-
seer, in Newbury, in 1686, and in 1689 was appointed
as a consultant "for the conservation of the peace of
the Country."
In 1689 he petitioned the General Court for compen-
sation for repulsing an Indian raid, in which he was
severely wounded, and it was directed that forty
pounds should be paid to him "out of the treasury of
the Province."
Stephen Greenleaf, with nine others, was wrecked
and drowned off Cape Breton, December i, 1690.
Little is known of Robert Pike beyond the fact that
he was one of the original settlers of Nantucket, —
that he shared the interest of Christopher Hussey as
one of the proprietors, and that he was a warm friend
of Thomas Macy. He was a representative to the
General Court in 1648-49, and in 1658-59; Captain
The White Settlers and the Settlement 67
and Major in 1670; an Assistant in 1682, and a member
of the Council of Safety in 1689. He was actively
associated with the settlers of the island "until his
death, which occurred about forty years after the
purchase."
Thomas Coleman probably came to reside in Nan-
tucket previous to 1673, as it is recorded that during
October of that year he was "drawn on the jury."
His name appears with that of Christopher Hussey
and others in a list of settlers of Hampton, N. H.
Thomas and Robert Barnard are said to have come
to America about 1650. Thomas was one of those who
in 1659 purchased Nantucket. He transferred half of
his holding to his brother Robert. "Thomas died
abroad," but Robert came to Nantucket in 1663, and
died there in 1682. He had a son, John Barnard, bom
in 1642, who married Bethiah Folger, daughter of
Peter Folger, and a daughter Mary, who married her
cousin Nathaniel Barnard, son of Thomas and Eleanor
Barnard.
Richard Swain came to Nantucket with his second
wife and family. He had previously lived at Hampton,
N. H., where he settled after his arrival in America, in
1635. His second wife was Jane, the widow of George
Bunker, whom he had married in 1658. "John, the
son of his first wife, married Mary, daughter of Nathan-
iel Wier." Richard Swain, Sr., died in 1682.
John Swain, the original settler, son of Richard,
resided near Hummock Pond, and ultimately at Polpis.
His house was standing until 1902, when it was de-
stroyed by lightning. He died in 171 7.'
' For a few of the previous biographical sketches the writer is indebted
to Mrs. Hinchman's Early Settlers in Nantucket, to which he has had
access through her courtesy.
68 Nantucket
THE SETTLEMENT
The story of the transfer of the island of Nantucket
from the EngHsh Government to Thomas Mayhew,
and from him and the Indians to the white settlers,
has so often been told that a mere summary is all that
is required here, in order to preserve the continuity
of the narrative.
Nantucket was included in the royal grant to Ply-
mouth Company in 1621, and Lord Stirling and Sir
Ferdinand Gorges were the Commissioners deputed
to promote the colonization of the territory, including
the islands south of Cape Cod.
Lord Stirling appointed James Forrett as his agent
in New York for the sale or other disposal of the colony,
and Forrett sold the island of Nantucket, in 1641
(when it was under the jurisdiction of the Province of
New York), to Thomas Mayhew, an Englishman, who
emigrated to New England in 1631, and who first
settled at Watertown. Mayhew not only purchased
Nantucket, and the adjacent islands, but became a
part proprietor of Martha's Vineyard and Governor
of that island. He is said to have been a good colonizer
— always a friend to the Indians, and was the means
of preventing them from engaging in Philip's war. He
founded Edgartown in 1647, and from him were de-
scended numerous missionaries to the Indians, amongst
whom they had much influence, and spoke the Indian
language fluently.
The islands remained in the possession of the May-
hews (father and son), imtil 1659, when they were
transferred to ten purchasers, including Mayhew him-
self (as he reserved to himself and his heirs one
twentieth part of the property for his own use).
The White Settlers and the Settlement 69
From a reliable genealogy of the Coffin family' it
appears that in the spring of 1659 Tristram CofRn pro-
ceeded upon a voyage of inquiry and observation — first
to Martha's Vineyard where he secured Peter Folger, the
grandfather of Benjamin FrankHn, as an interpreter of the
Indian language; and thence to Nantucket, his object being
to ascertain the temper and disposition of the Indians, and
the capabilities of the island, so that he might report to
the citizens of Salisbury what inducements for emigration
thither were offered.
He was evidently impressed favorably by what he
saw and heard, for, when he returned to Sahsbury,
Mass., a company was formed, and the purchase of
the island determined. In the autumn of 1659 Thomas
Macy, Edward Starbuck, James Coffin, Isaac Coleman,
and some of their wives and children sailed in an open
boat for Nantucket, where they arrived safely, and
spent the winter of 1659-60 on the island at Madeket.
In July, 1660, Starbuck returned to Salisbury and
Amesbury, and induced a number of families to accom-
pany him back to Nantucket, and as time went on the
little colony received numerous additions, ^
Each of the original colonists was permitted to name
an associate, so that the island was primarily divided into
twenty shares, and as the colonists were anxious to add
to their number, and to induce artisans and mechanics
to come among them, the number of shares was ulti-
mately increased to twenty-seven, these including the
entire island, with the exception of the "common"
land, and that reserved by Mr. Mayhew for his own use.
' Vide Godfrey's Island of Nantucket, p. 169.
= Most, if not all, of the English settlers came from Salisbury, Mass.,
and its neighborhood.
70 Nantucket
The first meeting of the proprietors was held at Salis-
bury on the 26. day of February, 1659, i^i order to take
in their partners. First, the partner of Thomas May-
hew was John Smith; of Tristram Coffin, Nathaniel
Starbuck; of Thomas Macy, Edward Starbuck; of
Richard Swain, Thomas Look; of Thomas Barnard,
Robert Barnard; of Peter Coffin, James Coffin; of
Christopher Hussey, Robert Pike; of Stephen Greenleaf,
Tristram Coffin, Jr.; of John Swain, Thomas Coleman.
At the same meeting the above-named persons agreed
to have ten other partners, who should each have half
as much land as they themselves, called for that reason
half -share men. They also agreed that John Bishop
should have two of the said half-shares. After they came
to Nantucket they granted the following rights: To
Thomas Macy one half -share in the year 1663. To
Richard Gardner two half- shares in 1666; to Joseph
Gardner one half -share, in 1667; to Joseph Coleman
one half-share in 1665; to William Worth two half-
shares in 1662; to John Gardner two half- shares in
1672; to Samuel Stretor one half-share in 1669; to
Nathaniel Wier "one half of a sort of a poor one" in
1667. In the aggregate these shares and fractions of
shares were equivalent to twenty-seven whole shares.
Mr. Thomas Mayhew's Deed of Sale is as follows:
Copy of Deed of Nantucket to Nine Purchasers
(dated July 2, 1659)
Recorded for M^ Coffin and M^ Macy afores'', ye Day
and Year afores^
Be it known unto all men by these Presents that I,
Thomas May hew of Martha's Vineyard, Merchant, doe
hereby acknowledge that I have sould unto Tristram Coffin,
Thomas Macy, Christopher Hussey, Richard Swayne,
The White Settlers and the Settlement 71
Thomas Bernard, Peter Coffin, Stephen Greenleafe, John
Swayne, and WiUiam Pike that Right and Interest I have
in ye Land of Nantuckett by Patent : ye w'^'^ Right I bought
of James Forrett, Gent, and Steward to ye Lord Sterling
and of Richard Vines, sometimes of Sacho, Gent., Steward-
Gen®'^ unto Sir Georges Knight as by Conveyances under
their Hands and Scales doe appeare, ffor them ye aforesaid
to Injoy, and their Heyres and Assignes forever w*^ all
the Privileges thereunto belonging, for in consideration of
ye Sume of Thirty Pounds of Current Pay unto whomsoever
I ye said Thomas May hew, mine Heyres or Assignes shall
appoint.
And also two Beaver Hatts one for myself and one for my
wife.
And further this is to declare that I the said Thomas
Mayhew have received to myself that Neck upon Nan-
tucket called Masquetuck or that Neck of Land called Nash-
ayte the Neck (but one) northerly of Masquetuck ye
aforesaid Sayle in anywise notwithstanding.
And further, I ye said Thomas Mayhew am to beare
my Part of the Charge of ye said Purchase above
named, and to hold one twentieth Part of all Lands
purchased already, or shall be hereafter purchased upon
ye said Island by ye afores'^ Purchas" or Heyres or
Assignes forever.
Briefly: It is thus: That I really sold all my Patent to
y*' aforesaid nine men and they are to pay mee or whom-
soever I shall appoint them, ye sume of Thirty Pounds in
good Marchantable Pay in ye Massachusetts, under w'^^
Governm* they now Inhabit, and 2 Beaver Hatts, and I
am to beare a 20*^ Part of ye Charge of y® Purchase, and
to have a 20*^ Part of all Lands and Privileges; and
to have w^'' of ye Necks afors'^ that I will myselfe,
paying for it; only ye Purchasers are to pay what ye
Sachem is to have for Masquetuck, although I have
y® other Neck.
And in witness hereof I have hereunto sett my Hand
72 Nantucket
and Seale this second Day of July sixteen hundred and
fifty nine — (1659)
Per me
Tho. Mayhew.
Witness: John Smith
Edward Searle.
Before the legal purchase of the island could be rati-
fied, it was necessary to secure the sanction of the repre-
sentative Indian chiefs and this was duly obtained as
appears from the following deed, dated May 10, 1660:
Sachems^ Deed of Nantucket
These presents witness, May the tenth, sixteen hundred
and sixty, that we, Wanackmamack and Nickanoose, head
Sachems of Nantucket island, do give, grant, bargain, and
sell unto Mr. Thomas Mayhew of Marthas Vine3^ard,
Tristram Coffin, Senior, Thomas Macy, Christopher Hussey,
Richard Swain, Peter Coffin, Stephen Greenleaf, Thomas
Barnard, John Swain and William Pile, all the Land,
Meadow, Marshes, Timber and Wood, and all appurte-
nances thereunto belonging, and being and lying from the
west end of the island of Nantucket, unto the Pond, called
by the Indians, Waqutuquab, and from the head of that
Pond, upon a straight line, unto the Pond situated by
Monomoy Harbor or Creek, now called Wheeler's Creek,
and so from the northeast corner of the said Pond to the
sea, that is to say, all the right that we, the aforesaid
Sachems have in the said tract of land, provided that none
of the Indian Inhabitants, in or about the woodland, or
whatsoever Indians, within the last purchase of land, from
the head of the Pond to Monomoy Harbor, shall be removed
without full satisfaction. And we, the aforesaid Sachems,
do give, grant, bargain and sell, the one-half of the remain-
der of the meadows and marshes upon all other parts of
the Island. And also that the English people shall have
The White Settlers and the Settlement 73
what grass they shall need for to mow, out of the remainder
of the meadows and marshes on the Island, so long as the
English remain upon the Island, and also free liberty for
timber and wood upon any part of the Island within the
jurisdiction. And also, we, the aforesaid Sachems, do
full grant free liberty to the English for the feeding all
sorts of cattle on any part of the Island, after Indian Har-
vest is ended until planting time, or until the first day of
.May, from year to year forever, for and in consideration
of twelve pounds already paid, and fourteen pounds to be
paid within three months after the date hereof.
To have and to hold the aforesaid purchase of land, and
other appurtenances, as aforementioned, to them, Mr.
Thomas Macy, Tristram Coffin, Thomas Mayhew, and the
rest aforementioned, and their heirs and assigns forever.
In witness whereof, we the said Sachems, have hereunto
set our hands and seals, the day and year above written.
The sign of Wanackmamack [S]
The sign of Nickanoose [SI
Signed, sealed and delivered, in the presence of us
Peter Folger,
Felix Kuttashamaquat,
Edward Starbuck.
I do witness this deed to be a true deed, according to
the interpretation of Felix the interpreter; also I heard
Wanackmamack, but two weeks ago, say that the sale made
by Nickanoose and he should be good, and that they would
do so, whatever comes of it.
Witness my hand, this 17th day of first month, 1664.
Peter Folger.
Witness: Mary Starbuck.
The mark of John (I. C.) Coffin.
Wanackmamack and Nickanoose acknowledge the above
written to be their act and deed, in the presence of the
General Court, this 12th of June, 1667, as attest.
Matthew Mayhew,
Secretary to the General Court.
74 Nantucket
It is rather curious that this deed, although duly
witnessed on May lo, 1660, was not confirmed by
Peter Folger until January i, 1664, and did not receive
official attestation by the Secretary to the General
Court until the 12th of June, 1667.
This deed purchased the island from the original
patentee and a greater part of it from the Indians, and
the English are said to have paid twenty-six pounds
for it. Almost a year before the execution of the above
deed, however, what is known as "The First Indian
Deed" was executed by Nickanoose and Nanahuma
on June 20, 1859. It is as follows:
This doth witness that we Nickanoose of Nantucket,
Sachem, and Nanahuma of Nantucket, Sachem, have sold
unto Thomas Mayhew of the Vineyard the plain at the
west end of Nantucket that is according to the figure
under written, to him and his heirs and assigns forever.
In consideration whereof we have received by earnest of
the said Thomas Mayhew the sum of twelve pounds. Also
the said Sachems have sold the said Mayhew of the Vine-
yard the use of the meadow and to take wood for the use
of him, the said Mayhew, his heirs and assigns forever.
In witness hereof, we the Sachems aforesaid have here-
unto set our hands this 20th of June, 1659.
The said Acamy lyeth north and by east, and south by west
or near it.
Nickanoose, X (his mark.)
Nanahuma, X (his mark.)
Witness hereunto:
Mr. Harry,
John Coleman,
Thomas Macy,
Tristram Coffin.
During the next hundred years — say from 1664 to
1774 — the records contain the many transfers of lots
The White Settlers and the Settlement 75
of land deeded by the Indians to the English, until,
indeed, the entire island became the property of the
white settlers.
As an example of further deeds the following may be
quoted.
January 5, 1660, Nickanoose out of free voluntary
love for Edward Starbuck gave him "Coretue," which
was reassigned by Edward Starbuck, August 30, 1668.
June 22, 1662, Wanackmamack signed a deed con-
veying a neck of land in the eastern section of the
island known as Pocomo Neck. This was witnessed
by the younger Wauwinet, son of Nickanoose, and by
Peter Folger. The purchase was made by Tristram
Coffin and Thomas Macy.
February 20, 1661, Wanackmamack, head sachem,
sold the west half of Nantucket.
November 18, 1671, shows that Tristram Coffin
bought of Wanackmamack and Nicomoose from Mono-
moy to Waquittaquage Pond, Nanahumack Neck, and
all from Wesco to the west end of Nantucket.
June 20, 1682, deed of Nicomoose, sachem, to
James Coffin, William Worth, and John Swain — the
grass and herbage of all his lands from Indian harvest
to first of May.
And thus the land sales go on, until 1774, when the
sachems and Indians had virtually sold every spot in
their possession to the English.
As Mr. H. B. Worth aptly points out,
Nickanoose signed deeds only of territory belonging to
some other sachem; the fact is true of Wanackmamack.
Neither signed a deed of any portion of the territory under
his direct control. The sachem Attapehat (Autopscot),
as far as has been found never signed any deed.
76 Nantucket
These facts may be accounted for by assuming that
these chief sachems thought it beneath their dignity
to sign deeds conveying their own property while at
the same time they permitted no deeds to be signed
without their approval and attestation. This may
appear a lame suggestion, but it is the best the writer
can offer.
The Provincial Governor of New York in 1671
(Lovelace) thought it desirable to obtain a new deed
from the sachems, attesting the legality of the land
sales, and an assurance that the stipulated terms had
been duly complied with, before issuing a new patent.
The necessary proofs were furnished in that year by
Wanackmamack the chief sachem.
The number of settlers who had arrived from Salis-
bury in 1660 and 1661 soon began to make themselves
comfortable in their new and strange environment,
while the Indians could not but admire the novel type
of dwelling houses which the newcomers had set up
in strange contrast with the humble wigwams of the
aborigines; indeed the new procedure which was being
introduced in many directions must have caused them
much surprise.
For a time the English and the Indians — the civilized
and the uncivilized — worked together amicably for the
agricultural development of the island. Together they
cleared and tilled the land (for the most part existing
as a primeval wilderness), settling the allotments, cut-
ting down the timber, which is said to have almost
covered the island, and mutually performing the nu-
merous farming operations involved in the reclama-
tion and cultivation of the soil. In addition to farming
they engaged also in fishing, in which art the natives
were expert. Much time was also devoted to the rais-
The White Settlers and the Settlement ']']
ing of sheep, and thus while mutual forbearance was
exercised, mutual trust was generated, and while the
settlers acted faithfully and justly with the Indians,
the latter were equally loyal in the discharge of their
duties in their new relationships.
What has been written thus far will, it is hoped,
serve to illustrate the conditions under which the
white settlers became established on Nantucket.
It may be noted that the names of many of the origi-
nal white settlers are perpetuated in teeming numbers
among the inhabitants of Nantucket until the present
day.
CHAPTER V
THE EARLY DEVELOPMENT OF THE ISLAND
When the Indians found that the white men had
come among them for peaceful purposes and not for
warfare or to take advantage of them, they received
the settlers kindly and with every assurance of friend-
ship and help that they could offer. They were willing
to work for them, or to sell their lands on fair terms,
and, on the other hand, the settlers dealt fairly with
them, and claimed nothing for which they were not
willing to pay — making no bargains that were not
strictly in accordance with the law, and not even deny-
ing the red men permission to utilize part of the lands
which had been purchased from them, when these
lands were required for family purposes.
Notwithstanding much that has been written to the
contrary, the Indians gave little or no dissatisfaction,
nor did they prove in any way troublesome until the
demon rum was introduced among them by the settlers
themselves. From that hour they began to degenerate,
and it was the main cause of nearly all their disaffection
and misconduct, contributing in no small degree to
their ultimate extinction on the island, as elsewhere.
That Tristram Coffin was a leading spirit in the
development of the island will be generally conceded
78
The Early Development of the Island 79
as the statement is supported by history and tradition ;
and that his strong personaHty gave him a controlHng
influence in almost every direction cannot be gainsaid.
Towards the Indians he exercised a uniform kindliness
which was almost paternal, and they soon learned to
know, to esteem, and to trust him. In his relations
with his fellow-settlers, although self-willed, and some-
times obdurate, he was, nevertheless, conscientious in
the discharge of every duty, as well as being kind-
hearted, worthy, and reliable.
The first care of the settlers on their arrival was to
provide shelters for themselves and their families.
This they succeeded in doing by digging cellars on the
hillsides, or by building log cabins, which served every
immediate purpose. They had also to examine the
general conditions existing on the island, to provide a
water supply, and to clear and divide the land for culti-
vation. In these various endeavors they received
valuable help from the Indians.
In accordance with a plan which some of the settlers
had previously inaugurated in Salisbury, they resolved
to divide the island into twenty-seven shares, — one for
each original proprietor, reserving a certain adequate
portion for house-lots, and a large area for common or
undivided land. When Mayhew sold the island, he
reserved for his own private use about 370 acres at
Quaise. The entire area of the island, when surveyed
in 1813, was 29,380 acres, from which were subtracted
10,993 acres and 69 rods as common land, leaving
18,387 acres and 22 rods to be divided and laid out
between 1659 and 1821.'
The subdivision of shares into what was called Cows'
Commons was somewhat complex, but I quote the
' O. Macy, History of Nantucket, p. 24.
8o Nantucket
following explanation from a masterly report by the
late William Hussey Macy, which renders the subject
easily intelligible:
A sheep common, as used by the early settlers, signified
as much land as would furnish commonage or pasturage
for a sheep. Its original equivalent seems to have been
an acre and a half of land. In the olden time all the land,
except such pieces as were set aside for homesteads, and
designated as "house-lot land," was held in common by
the twenty-seven original proprietors. Estimating, the
whole extent of available land in round numbers at about
29,000 acres, each man's share would be 720 commons for
sheep. The product of 720 x 27 = 19,440, which represents
the whole number of sheep commons at the outset. When
at a later period certain large tracts of land were laid out
to form "divisions," and designated by names such as
"Squam," "Southeast Quarter," "Smooth Hummocks,"
etc., each division was divided into twenty-seven shares as
nearly equal in size as the nature of the case would admit,
— quality and quantity considered. When these divisions
were laid out, the number of proprietors was no longer
twenty-seven, as it was constantly increasing by inherit-
ance, as well as by bargain and sale, and few individuals
could claim a whole share in any one of the divisions; but
each share was supposed to contain seven hundred and
twenty undivided parts, and each landowner owned the
same fractional interest in one of these shares as in a full
share of all the common lands. Lots were then drawn to
determine in what particular share of the new division
each man's interest should fall. The share might contain
one acre or it might contain fifty acres, according to the
extent of the division laid out; but 720 was the constant
denominator, and a man who owned, say, forty-five sheep
commons of the original land, or more correctly ^^4To of
the common land, would also be the owner of 7^0, undivided,
of a certain "share in Southeast Quarter"; of a certain
The Early Development of the Island 8i
other "share in Squam," and so on in the several divisions
as they were successively laid out. All the land of the island,
excepting house-lot land, was owned in this manner, whether
used for planting or stocking purposes, — the several pro-
prietors of each share holding it in common and undivided,
and buying and selling only undivided fractional interests.
The lands so laid out in divisions were known by the name
of "dividend lands."
The proprietors formed themselves into an organization
under the name of "The Proprietors of the Common and
Undivided Lands of Nantucket," held meetings, and kept
records of their own, distinct from the records of deeds.
For more than a hundred and fifty years, down into the
beginning of the last century, all the land of the island —
aside from the house-lot land — was thus owned in common,
and the proprietors steadily refused to set off any one
person's interest to him in severalty.
But these fetters were soon broken by Obed. Mitchell
and a few others, who, being large proprietors, desired to
obtain a title in severalty to the district known as Plainfield,
lying north of the village of Siasconset, and containing
some two thousand acres. Failing in their efforts at the
proprietors' meetings, they carried the case to the courts,
and after several years of litigation they gained their point,
and others followed their example with similar results.
In 1 82 1 several tracts were laid out and apportioned
under the names of Smooth Hummocks, Trott's Hills,
Head of the Plains, and others, and these are often spoken
of as the new "divisions."
By the great set-off to Obed. Mitchell and others, the
number of sheep commons had been reduced from 19,440
to 17,172 ; and although there were still twenty-seven shares
in each division as before, the constant denominator was
changed from 720 to 636. The owner of 2-0 part of an original
share of land — provided no part of his interest had been
sold — would own (or rather his heirs would own) — when
this statement was made in 1 882 — thirty-six sheep commons
6
82 Nantucket
in the common and undivided lands, with thirty-six sheep
commons (meaning thirty-six undivided 720th parts) of a
certain share in each of the old divisions, as Squam, South-
east Quarter, etc., as also thirty-six sheep commons (mean-
ing thirty-six undivided 636th parts) in some certain share
of each of the new divisions, as Smooth Hummocks, Trott's
Hills, etc. It was possible to buy and sell these interests
in the "dividend lands" separate from the interest in the
common land, and thus a proprietor who bought out all
his co-tenants would own an entire share defined by certain
specific boundary lines.
A sheep common, then, signified, 19,440 of all the common
land on the island. The original idea was an acre and a
half of land ; but, as the term is now used, it indicates nothing
definite, either in area or value, but means simply a certain
undivided fractional part of a very uncertain something
else, until the whole circumstances of each particular are
investigated.
As soon as a division was laid out and drawn in shares,
the proprietors as an organization, ceased to have any control
of it. If the owner of any portion of a share desired to hold
his part in severalty he must make a formal application to
the judicial courts, which would appoint commissioners to
set off his portion; and many good titles have thus been
secured. But in many cases where an undivided interest has
remained in the same family for three or four generations,
it has become so subdivided and split up by inheritance
that it is practically impossible for a would-be pur-
chaser to find all the present owners, and secure a perfect
title by deed. ... By a gradual process of cancellation
or absorption the whole number of sheep commons is now
brought down to comparatively few, and the quantity of
common land remaining is very much reduced. The greater
part of the remaining commons are now in a few hands,
while a small number of them have been quite lost sight of
by the process of infinitesimal subdivision caused by death
and inheritance.
The Early Development of the Island 83
According to the records, the first sheep-shearing
took place in 1696. The western shear-pen was near
Maxcy's Pond, and the eastern near Gibbs's Pond.
The last shearing took place near Miacomet, in 1847.
It may be mentioned incidentally that in 1775 the
flocks numbered over 15,000 head.
As to the settlers' farming operations:
The proprietors commonly plant about twenty-five acres
of corn to a share, which are 675 acres for the twenty-seven
shares which are in one field, and will produce on an average
twelve bushels to the acre: that number multiplied by 675
gives 8100 bushels. The next year the same land is sowed
with rye and oats; about eighty-one acres with rye. The
produce, about six bushels to an acre, is 486 bushels. The
remainder, 594 acres, is sowed with oats, which produces
about fourteen bushels to an acre — that is, 8316 bushels.
On the private farms there are about 200 acres planted
with corn which will yield twenty bushels to the acre
and as many acres for rye and oats.
In addition to the commons there were, as Zaccheus
Macy points out, various other portions of land, swamps
and salt-meadows, which w^ere divided among the
shareholders in proportion to their shares, and these
were utilized, as a rule, for house-lots, mowing land,
and pastures. There can be no doubt that the settlers
found the cultivation of the land sufficiently remuner-
ative, and that it eventually enabled them to enjoy
competence and prosperity. But times have changed,
and we have changed with them!
Farming, however, did not altogether monopolize
their time, for the surrotmding ocean teemed with
almost ever}^ variety of fish, and during intervals of
labor the settlers were able to supply their households
and to find recreation in the process; besides, the island
84 Nantucket
contained an abundance of wild-fowl and small game,
which contributed materially to their food resources.
The population was gradually increasing and indus-
trial pursuits were soon organized, thus affording
employment to artisans, while adding to the successful
development of the settlement.
The first grist-mill built by the English was erected
in 1666 or 1667 at Lily Pond, which, at that time is said
to have covered three acres. Peter Folger was placed
in charge, but the bursting of the dam seems to have
put the mill out of commission. About 1676, the second
mill, a fulling mill, was installed in its place, with Peter
Folger once more as manager. Subsequently four grist-
mills were built and operated on the mill-hills, and are
said to have been kept running until 1822. The first,
having become useless, was blown up in 1836, in order
"to prove the practicability of blowing up buildings in
case of fire." Another was destroyed by lightning in
1817; a third was taken down in 1873, one of the mill-
stones being used as part of the foiindation to the
Soldiers' Monument. The fourth grist-mill was erected
in 1746, and still remains on its ancient eminence to
tell of Nantucket's quondam enterprise. It commands
a magnificent view of the surrounding island. From
1723 to 1875 there were no less than twelve mills oper-
ated upon the island. Some were worked by wind, some
by water; some of them were grist-mills and others fulHng
mills, and they were placed in various positions through-
out the island, tending much to its prosperity, and giving
employment directly or indirectly to many workers.^
' Those interested in the subject of Nantucket mills will find many
interesting details in Mrs. Eva C. G. Folger's volume, The Glacier's Gift,
to which the writer wishes to express many obligations. Vide Chapter
XIX in this volume.
■J5
pa
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H
The Early Development of the Island 85
While cereal and textile industries were thus inau-
gurated and developed, the islanders had to select
their house-lots, and build their residences. Some
writers have asserted that the earliest settlers, includ-
ing Thomas Macy, built their houses in the immediate
neighborhood of Madeket, but this is undoubtedly" an
error, as there is not a shred of evidence to support the
statement beyond the fact that Edward Starbuck had
built a house at Madeket, and that Macy resided with
him during their first winter on the island. On the
other hand, it is a matter of established history that
Tristram Coffin made his first home near Capaum Pond
(where he resided until his death), and that Thomas
Macy had his house-lot laid out to the eastward of
Tristram Coffin's near the Wannacomet Pond, in 1661.
It was, indeed, in this locality that the first village was
located, viz: in the neighborhood of Hummock Pond,
and to the south and east of Capaum Pond. In a few
instances the places where some of the houses stood are
still indicated by the remains of brick cellars, especially
in the vicinity of Reed Pond, where it is believed Thomas
Macy's residence was located.
At a meeting held at Wannacomet, July 15, 1661, of
the owners or purchasers residing there, it was agreed
that each man should have liberty to choose his house-
lot within the limits not previously occupied, and that
each house-lot "shall contain sixty rods square to a
whole share."
As far back as 1642, the Mayhews, father and son,
had been trying to convert the Indians to Christianity,
but it is not generally known that the first house of
worship erected on the island was built for the Indians
in 1674, that in this year they had thirty devout com-
municants, and, at least, three meeting-houses in
86 Nantucket
different parts of the island, viz: at Miacomet, at
Polpis, and at Occawa now known as Plainfield, —
where every Sunday, and sometimes during the week,
three hundred of the natives were in the habit of attend-
ing service. John Gibbs, whose Indian name was
Assassamoogh (whom King Philip previously sought
on the island, 1665), was sent to Harvard by Mr. May-
hew, and, when he was sufficiently educated, he served
as a preacher to the Nantucket and Vineyard Indians
for twenty-five years. Pastor Gibbs was assisted by
three "praying Indians," Joseph, Samuel, and Caleb, —
the last a sachem's son, whose Indian name was Wee-
kochisit.
This part of the history of the island has not hitherto
received the attention it deserves. The noble efforts
of the Mayhew family to Christianize the aborigines
are worthy of the highest commendation, and should
never be forgotten. '
The first church, town-house, and jail were, it is
generally believed, built on the road represented by the
present West Center and Chester Streets a little to
the north of No-Bottom Pond, and approximately
half a mile west from where West Center joins Liberty
Street.
A tradition exists that the "first church" was
identical with the building now known as "the old
North Vestry," which was moved to Beacon Hill,
Nantucket, in 1765, first placed where the Congrega-
tional Church now stands and eventually, in 1834,
removed to its present position at the rear of the church.
Built of island-timber it may have been (although even
' Many and ample details will be found in Mr. Experience Mayhew 's
attractive book entitled Indian Converts, and in a valuable addendum
to that work by Mr. Thomas Prince.
The Early Development of the Island 87
this is problematical), but not in 171 1, as indicated by
an inscription on its gable-end. That it was brought
from the vicinity of the "first church" there can be
little doubt, but the following, extract from Judge
Lynde's Diary, dated at Nantucket in June, 1732,
when he was visiting the island, shows pretty clearly
that it could not have been the first church: "Lord's
Day, June nth; Mr. White preached very well at the
new-built Presbyterian Meeting-housed This should
be enough to disprove the allegation that it was the
original church of the settlers; but, in addition, a careful
examination of the building itself, fortified by expert
opinion, proves unquestionably that, although prob-
ably built some years before its removal, it could not
have been erected in 171 1, nor for perhaps twenty years
thereafter.
That the Presbyterians had an earlier meeting-house,
which was existent in 1725, is evident from the town
having issued an order to have one of its official notices
"placed on the door of both meeting-houses," but as
to what was done with it, or what became of it, there
is not a vestige of proof to show.
There is no evidence to show that any regular church
establishment was in existence before the arrival of
Timothy White, in 1725; nor had any minister been
appointed to the charge before that year. In the
Timothy White Papers,'' however, it is suggested that
ministers of the Gospel temporarily visiting the island
occasionally held religious services and ministered to
the spiritual needs of the people.
On May 9, 1725, Mr. Timothy White notes that he
"began preaching the Gospel at Nantucket," and this
is the first authentic record. Mr. White, although he
' Page 13, footnote.
88 Nantucket
had been educated at Harvard, was not an ordained
minister, but had been appointed by a religious society
to serve as the superintendent of religious work among
the Nantucket Indians, and as a private school-teacher.
Later he became minister of the congregation of the
first little church. The first record of the administra-
tion of baptism is made on September 29, 1728, by
the Rev. Joseph Baxter of Medfield, and "at that time
a Covenant is owned."
Mr. White was appointed minister of the Presbyte-
rian meeting-house at Nantucket in or about 1732,
and it is almost certain that no church organization
existed among the whites until that year or thereabout.
Mr. White surrendered his charge in 1750, and there
is no record of any minister having succeeded him until
1 76 1. "Since that date the roll of Pastors of the
first Congregational Church has never been incom-
plete."^ There was formerly a tower on the old Con-
gregational Church, now known as the "Old North
Vestry."
Much collateral testimony tends to prove that the
education of their children was not neglected by the
settlers, although no public schools were probably
erected before 1827. There can be no doubt that the
Quakers had schools from an early period, and that
there were, contemporaneously, private schools for
pupils of various ages, supported by the general com-
munity. It is a matter of record that, as early as 171 6,
Eleazer Folger was engaged as schoolmaster at the
rate of "three pounds current money to keep school
one year"; and from 1725 to 1750, Mr. Timothy White
acted as a private-school teacher as well as a mission-
' Dudley's Churches and Pastors of Nantucket, p. 20, and Timothy
White Papers.
The Early Development of the Island 89
ary and a minister. Many private schools existed from
1800 to 1827.
There is not a word in the Town or Land Records
to indicate where the town-house and jail were placed
prior to 1 716. It has been stated that the original
meeting-house, jail, and town-house occupied contiguous
sites, but however probable this may have been, there
are no known facts to sustain the allegation. Allusions
are made in the records referring to these three institu-
tions, records of orders for their erection, for repairs,
etc., but not in a single instance is there any reference
to the locality in which the buildings themselves were
situated.
In 1 7 16 it was voted that a town-house should be
erected and here the location is sufficiently indicated
to surmise that it was built on the south side of West
Center Street, north of No-Bottom Pond. This is
precisely the situation which tradition has always
assigned to the three original institutions now under
discussion, but no proof is offered as to whether they
were erected here or not ; and even in this instance
there is not a word about either the original jail or
meeting-house having been placed in or near the same
vicinity.
In 1783, the town-house erected in 17 16 was moved
to the comer of Milk and Main Streets, where it stood
for many years.
As to the location of the old jail, no facts are forth-
coming. There is a record to the effect that, in 1748,
the town voted to sell "the old prison at Wesko to
William Swain." Twenty years later it was voted "to
repair the old prison, and build a new one near it."
The town built a workhouse thirty feet long and
sixteen feet wide in 1770. Later "the workhouse and
90 Nantucket
the new poor-house were on the lot now occupied by
the jail."'
Judging from an inscription on the building, the
present jail in Vestal Street may have been erected in
1775-
In 1665, the redoubtable King Philip visited the island,
bringing with him a number of natives in canoes. The
alleged object of his visit was to find an Indian who
had committed the unspeakable crime of having men-
tioned the name of Philip's dead father! Philip finally
found his Indian culprit, and the whites at once offered
to purchase his liberty; but the sum asked by Philip
was exorbitant, and beyond their means. However,
they actually gave him all they could afford, viz: £11,
which he immediately appropriated. After some bar-
gaining, Philip remaining obdurate, the settlers at
last became angry, and threatened that, if he and his
braves did not leave the island immediately, they would
rally the inhabitants. The result was that Philip
became alarmed, and left the island at once, leaving his
prisoner (John Gibbs alias Assassamoogh) unmolested.
Civil government was instituted on the island and
the town incorporated in 1671, when Tristram Coffin
was appointed Chief Magistrate, with two assistants
under him, and with Mr. Mayhew, of Martha's Vine-
yard, and his two assistants, they constituted a General
Court with appellate jurisdiction over both islands,
under the Governor and Council of New York.
In 1672 the first Selectmen were appointed. The
Board comprised Edward Starbuck, John Swain, John
Gardner, Peter Coffin, and William Worth. In 1673
Captain John Gardner was appointed Captain of the
Military Company for the defense of the island.
' H. Barnard Worth, Nantucket Lands and Landowners.
The Early Development of the Island 91
It was in 1673, also, that the name Sherburne was
bestowed upon the Httle township of settlers by Gover-
nor Lovelace of New York Province, under the juris-
diction of which the island was at this time; but in
1693, it was once more ceded to the Province of Mas-
sachusetts by special act of King William III arid Mary.
Shore- whaling also commenced in 1673.
Captain John Gardner was appointed Chief Magis-
trate by Governor Andros in 1680. Tristram Coffin
died in October, 1681.
In or about 1700 the little harbor of Capaum was
turned into a pond by a great storm which blocked the
entrance, and cut the harbor off completely from the
ocean as it remains to this day. The islanders were
thus obviously placed at a great disadvantage for want
of harbor accommodation, but evidently hesitated to
repair their misfortune by immediate removal. They
had been centred in the neighborhood of Wannacomet
for many years, and were apparently well-satisfied
with the locality they had selected until a catastrophe
happened which was beyond their control, and under
all the circumstances they doubtless felt that, in many
ways, their interests would suffer by an immediate
removal. Be this as it may, when they found that
increasing prosperity would eventually force them to
seek a new township with larger and more permanent
harbor accommodation, they at length selected Wesko,
— now Nantucket — for their future dwelling place.
The exodus was accomplished in or about 1720.
The new center commended itself in every way.
Extensive building operations were carried on, and
soon the town was flourishing apace.
The outlook of the settlers about this time was hope-
ful in the extreme, and the attractions of the island were
92 Nantucket
being noised abroad. The inhabitants were increasing
rapidly; artisans and mechanics had come among the
islanders in sufficient numbers to ensure the skillful
execution of handicraft in its various branches, and
the settlers had added to their resources by engaging
in cod -fishing, in which the red men were as proficient
as the whites. A little later, having observed many
whales disporting themselves about the island, the
settlers resolved to capture some of these leviathans of
the deep, and to turn them to their own advantage.
They secured expert help in order to learn the best
modes of killing whales, and extracting their oil, and
Macy tells us that "the pursuit of whales commenced
in boats from the shore, and increased from year to
year, till it became the principal branch of business
with the islanders."
The Indians joined the whites with much spirit in
these adventures, and, being good-natured and obedi-
ent, as well as especially dexterous in every kind of
sport, they were of the utmost assistance in the manning
of extra boats.
It was not, however, until 1690 that the whaling
industry, which made the island famous, was thoroughly
organized and established on a business basis. This
subject is, however, of such importance in relation to
the progress of the island that a special chapter must
be devoted to its brief consideration.
In the meanwhile the dawn of the i8th century found
the development of the island and its resources in a
very satisfactory and hopeful condition. The popula-
tion was increasing rapidly, money was circulating more
freely, the transfer of nearly all aboriginal lands had
been arranged with the natives, and the soil had been
proved sufficiently fertile and productive; the natives
The Early Development of the Island 93
themselves were, for the most part, zealously co-operat-
ing with the whites, the whaHng industry was proving
a great boon to the islanders, and prospects of still
greater progress and success were fully assured.
On the 1 2th of April, 1742, the House of Represent-
atives voted that
His Excellency the Captain General be desired to give orders
that within twelve months there be erected within the Town
and Harbour of Sherburn on Nantucket a good and sufficient
Breast- Work, and a Platform built, and six guns, six pounders
and others equivalent mounted, and all suitable Warlike
Stores procured, and that the sum of £150 be granted, etc.^
The above vote was taken for the purpose of forti-
fying Nantucket.
Numerous collateral branches of industry directly
or indirectly connected with whaling soon became
essential, and were duly instituted. Thus wharves
had to be built for the accommodation of an increasing
fleet of vessels, and that still known as the Straight
Wharf was erected in or about 1723. From 1772 to
1775 new industries were established in every direction.
The first candle factory for the manufacture of sperm
candles was erected in 1772 and its annual output, at
one time, amounted to 4,560,000 candles. Large rope-
walks for the making of whale-lines and every de-
scription of rope, were constructed; also salt-works, a
brush-factory, brickworks (at Gull Island), a rum dis-
tillery, a woollen factory, and many other mechanical
arts and devices were established. The numerous mills
which had been erected and were working upon the
island about this time and other manufacturing indus-
tries are referred to elsewhere.^
• IMass. State Records. » Vide Chapter XX.
94 Nantucket
In 1746 the first lighthouse built at Nantucket,
being the second built in the United States, was erected
at Brant Point.' For forty-five years a light was
maintained here by the town authorities until 1795,
when the government assumed the responsibility.
In 1764 a Hospital for Inoculation was established
in Boston, and Dr. Gelston established a branch on
Gravelly Island. The people, however, soon became
dissatisfied, and eventually disapproved of the measure
so strongly that the town was induced to petition the
government against the practice, and this requisition
stopped it for a time: but it was resumed in 1778, when
the people persisted in their opposition, and Dr. Gel-
ston was refunded for his outlay (£1072.17.6 — old
tenor), and he was banished from the island.
In 1775 the present jail was probably erected.^
A volume would be required to adequately describe
the terrible experiences of Nantucketers during the
Revolutionary War of 1 775-1 784, but beyond a few
general statements, the briefest reference is all that the
exigencies of space will permit here. It may be truth-
fully said, however, that no other place in the Union
paid a higher price for the independence thus obtained
than the inhabitants of Nantucket. While their insular
position laid them open to every kind of attack by an
enemy inured to warfare for hundreds of years, and
infinitely superior in numbers and experience, they
were by the same conditions prevented from making
any adequate defence, while, for obvious reasons, their
own country could afford them but little protection.
The islanders had no choice but to submit to the in-
' Boston Light was erected in 1715.
' The adjacent House of Correction was built in 1805, and removed
from Quaise, with the Asylum for the Poor, in 1854.
The Early Development of the Island 95
evitable, and to do the best they could under any
circumstances that might arise.
The whaHng industry, on which the vital interests
of the island entirely depended, ceased, and beyond a
little risky trading carried on with the West Indies,
and a little shoal-fishing round the shores of the island,
all their maritime activities were paralyzed. In ever-
increasing distress many of the islanders enlisted, others
ventured on privateer service, and of those who left
few returned to the island. It soon became impossible
to import goods of any kind, the supply of fuel and
provisions was almost entirely cut off, and many of
those who ventured forth to obtain them were captured
and imprisoned in the loathsome prison-ships, which
the islanders dreaded far more than the suffering and
privations which prevailed to such an extreme degree
on the island.
By degrees their pecuniary resources were almost
expended and rank famine stared the people in the
face; employment of every kind was at a standstill;
food was becoming scarce, and fuel could not be pro-
cured. In the latter emergency the inhabitants were
driven to utilize peat, scrub-oak roots, and dried bark.
The Nantucketers became as starving prisoners on
their own island, for British cruisers infested the Sound
night and day. Worse than all, perhaps, were the
repeated threats of the enemy to plunder and rob the
island; and on one occasion, in 1779, they landed about
a hundred men, who robbed the islanders of property
to the amount of £10,666.13.4.'
In simple justice to the British Army and Navy it
should be stated that the commanders-in-chief of both
services, on being petitioned by the Nantucket authori-
' Macy, History of Nantucket, p. 91.
96 Nantucket
ties, sympathized with the islanders and assured them
that "no further depredations should be made upon the
island, on property belonging to the inhabitants, by
persons under the authority of Great Britain,"
But a few months afterwards, it having been falsely
represented to the enemy that, on the 12th of Septem-
ber, 1779, the armed schooner. Royal Charlotte, was
prevented from seizing a Nantucket sloop by "wafts
and signals" from the said sloop, a squadron of English
armed vessels was despatched against Nantucket, and
had actually arrived in Vineyard Haven; and it was
only after explanations and interviews between the
representatives of the island and the commanders of
the royal forces that the matter was adjusted, and the
war- vessels took their departure.
Such vicissitudes and embarrassments kept the
imfortunate Nantucketers in a continuous state of
anxiety and alarm, but they had found in their isolated
position that submission was the best test of prudence,
and that patience under the decrees of Providence
would in the end ensure their deliverance.
In addition to the blighting ravages of the war, the
exceptionally inclement winter of 1780 rendered the
lot of the brave islanders desolate indeed. Not only
was the cold intense, but the harbor, as well as the
entire island, was fast-bound in fields of ice, thus
cutting off supplies of fish and fuel, while there was a
dire want of provisions and raiment. All classes
of the community, however, joined in a mighty co-oper-
ative effort to prevent the threatening famine, and
everything that could be suggested was accomplished
in order to improve the condition of the suffering people
and to save their lives. Vegetation had been more
prolific than usual during the preceding year, and the
The Early Development of the Island 97
farmers had been enabled to accumulate a surplusage
of grain and vegetables beyond their own requirements,
and this was divided among the famished islanders
without stint; there being thousands of sheep on the
island, the women spun the wool, and kept those
dependent upon them supplied with raiment; the pro-
prietors of the island placed large tracts of land, amount-
ing to thousands of acres, at the disposal of laborers
for improvement and cultivation, and the people were
permitted to dig peat out of the extensive island-swamps.
From these conjoined agencies, added to the charitable
organizations of the town authorities, much relief was
brought to the poorer classes of the inhabitants, but
the hearts of the seafaring men were ardently longing
for an opportunity to plow the watery deep once
more, and efforts in this direction were made by pe-
titioning and interviewing the British authorities.
Certain privileges were thus secured which enabled
the whalers to re-engage in their industry.
Peace was at length proclaimed in 1784, and, as
Macy says: "Joy pervaded all parts of the country,
and was nowhere more heartfelt than in Nantucket,
for perhaps no place had suffered more."^
In 1775, when the war broke out, the aggregate
tonnage of Nantucket ships was 14,867 tons. During
the war fifteen ships were lost at sea, and 134 captured;
total loss in tonnage, 12,464 tons, of which more than
10,000 tons fell into the hands of the enemy.
The war had indeed demoralized every industry on
the island, and while time and the continued blessing
of peace could alone restore to the inhabitants generally
their former happiness and prosperity, the poorer
' It has been stated that 1600 Nantucketers perished in one way and
another, during the Revolutionary War.
7
98 Nantucket
classes were severely handicapped for years to come,
while many of the whalers were incapacitated from
following their strenuous calling after such a lapse of
activity as they had experienced during the "seven
years war." Many were the trials made by the island-
ers to recover from their deplorable condition. Cod-
fishing was tried, and gave promise for a time, but it
gradually failed from a variety of causes; agriculture
languished, because those who had been farmers were
no longer sufficiently strong or active to carry on the
necessary operations, and the younger men were dis-
inclined to engage in it. The whaling industry offered
the best prospects, and the majority of the men turned
instinctively towards it, but those who re-embarked
in it could not make it remunerative, although the
government had put a bounty on whale oil. The
English Government held out such inducements to
whalers, if they would come to Nova Scotia or to
Milford Haven in the west of England, that many
Nantucketers left their island home, and this to a great
extent thinned the ranks of those capable of taking
arduous sea-voyages and engaging in whale-fishing.
The industry, however, was spreading in other coun-
tries, and Nantucketers at length determined not to be
outdone in a calling which they had made their own ; and,
although handicapped for a time, they succeeded at last.
In 1784 the State erected a lighthouse on Great
Point, and in 1790 the site became the property of the
United States.
The first vessel to engage in the pursuit of whales in
the Pacific Ocean sailed from Nantucket in 179 1. In
the latter part of May or early in June, 1795, the
Nantucket Bank was established, and it was robbed
of over $20,000, on June 20th of the same year!
The Early Development of the Island 99
The following is a list of the money stolen, copied
from an official source:
VALUE
400 pieces of French-coined gold $1733
150 Spanish Pistoles 550 .
300 English Guineas 1400
50 English Half-guineas 116
22 pieces of coined gold called Half Joannes 1 76
18 " " " " " Quarter Jo-
annes 72
$4,047
In Dollars 12,007
4430 French Crowns 4,873
$20,927
It was in 1795, also, that the name of the town was
changed from Sherburne to the modem form of its
aboriginal name, Nantucket. '
During 1796 general business depression prevailed,
and a number of inhabitants sought for better conditions
elsewhere. Some succeeded in their quest, while
others might have done better if they had remained at
home.
Reverting to the exodus of the islanders to other
places, from time to time, on account of abandoned
hope, if not actual privation, it should be mentioned
that, as early as 1 761-2, a large number of Nantucketers
migrated to Nova Scotia; in 1771-75 nearly fifty fam.i-
Hes removed to New Garden, Guilford, North Carolina;
a little later, with the idea of bettering their fortime,
' An appropriation of about $900 was made in 1796 for the purpose
of building a school, but the writer has found no other record concerning
it.
100 Nantucket
many of them effected a settlement on the Hudson
River, New York. After the Revolutionary War, in
1786, mainly through the instrumentality of Mr.
Rotch, the well-known Nantucket shipowner, a large
contingent of whalers were induced to go to Dunkirk,
in France. Still later, between 1835 and 1849, a
further exodus took place to Maine, New York, Ohio,
and California. These emigrations depleted the island
of whalers to a great extent, and doubtless contributed
to the failure of the whaling industry on Nantucket.
From time to time the question has frequently been
asked "Was Nantucket ever heavily wooded?" As
far as can be ascertained, while undoubtedly possessing
in certain sections clumps or groves of trees at an early
period, the island was yet never what may be termed
afforested. Trees of various kinds, but especially of
white oak, grew at Coatue, Coskata, on the cliff, — near
the O'Connor and John Gardner houses, — at Dead-horse
Valley, in the "Plains Country," and here and there
over the island; but by 1780 these trees had, for the
most part, been cut down and utilized by the settlers,
so that after this period it could scarcely be said that
any extensive growth of trees was in existence. In
some of the island swamps tree-roots of good size have
been dug up occasionally, but these simply testify
that the trees of which they had formed part had been
used for building and other purposes by the white
proprietors before 1780.
Although well-authenticated, it is not generally
known that, between 1 790-1 800, a whipping-post stood
at the comer of Main and Gardner Streets, and that a
woman named Polly Walmsley was here publicly
whipped — her outstretched arms being tied to the back
of a cart.
The Early Development of the Island loi
In 1798 the islanders were in fear of being implicated
in the troubles between France and the United States,
and were filled with gloom and anxiety as to the possi-
bilities of another war. Although these forebodings
were, fortunately, not fully realized, the resources of
the island suffered to the extent of $150,000.'
Fresh anxiety and alarm were felt concerning the
safety of Nantucket ships around the Horn during the
next year, but happily these fears were groundless, for
although the Nantucketers had little confidence in the
Spanish authorities, the ships proceeded safely after a
few days' detention at St. Mary's.
Between the War of the Revolution and that of 18 12,
a formidable fleet of privateers infested the high seas.
In 1793, when there was warfare between France and
England, the United States was the leading neutral
maritime nation. England foresaw that American
shipping would soon dominate the Mediterranean if
means were not taken to prevent such a contingency,
and, as a check, pirates were loosed upon the Atlantic.
On May 9, 1793, the French Government authorized
the seizure of "all neutral vessels which shall be laden
wholly or in part with food-products and destined for
an enemy's port." This action was the cause of what
has since been known as the "French Spoliations"
of the American merchant marine, giving rise to a
multitude of claims, which were finally settled by
compromise.
England was acting in defense of her maritime su-
premacy, and was, therefore, bound to oppose all possi-
ble rivals of that supremacy, and, food being scarce in
France, she determined to stop all food-laden ships
bound for that country.
' Alexander Starbuck.
102 Nantucket
Spain also, in her privateering enterprises, seized
scores of American ships, and under one pretext or
another many were carried into the ports of Denmark
and Sweden from piratical motives alone. But it
should be remembered that despite all this, in 1880,
America possessed 667,107 tons of shipping engaged in
foreign trade.'
The Nantucket streets were first named in 1797.
The closing years of the century passed away amid
alternating hopes and fears; but, notwithstanding
their many discouragements, the islanders still looked
forward hopefully for better fortune in the new era
upon which they were entering.
* Spears's American Merchant Marine. The Macmillan Co., 1910.
CHAPTER VI
the nantucket whale fishery
By Alexander Starbuck
The prosecution of the whale fishery from the little
island of Nantucket was an undertaking that might
well have been a matter of pride for any community
or any nationality. Such was the skill and daring of
the islanders in this pursuit that they carried their
employment, hazardous enough under the most favor-
able aspects, to an extreme that seemed audacious,
and won the plaudits even of those who were their
rivals in the business.
What England and France were unable to accomplish
with a monopoly of trade and heavy bounties, whale-
men of the United States carried on successfully with-
out assistance from their government and in the face
of all competition. Among the foremost were the
seamen of Nantucket. Their keels vexed every sea,
and the American flag floated from the mastheads of
their ships in every port. Pushing their pursuit into
unknown seas, large numbers of the islands of the
Pacific were discovered, and their locations determined
by these pioneers of the sea. At once producers and
factors, their trade extended from China in the west to
103
104 Nantucket
the shores of the Mediterranean in the east ; and they
traded as well in the teas and silks of the Orient as in
the fruits and wines and manufactured goods of the
Occident. They brought as curiosities the dresses of
the Esquimaux and the weapons of the natives of the
Pacific islands; the trinkets of the Japanese and the
natives of the lands bordering Behring's Straits, and
the papyrus books of the people of India. At home,
when peace reigned, the people were all busy, happy,
and prosperous, the warehouses were crowded with
goods, and the streets thronged with teams and foot
passengers. At the wharves lay a large fleet of vessels
taking in or discharging cargoes or refitting for new
voyages. The cheery din of the coopers' hammers and
the ring of the blacksmiths' anvils resounded on all
sides, the sail-lofts, the shops of the riggers, and the
"walks" of the rope-makers were occupied by the
multitudes that the demands of the shipping gave
employment to. In a thousand ways the activities
of a prosperous business showed themselves. But
all this is now changed. The ships long ago sailed on
their last voyages from Nantucket.
Not an ocean on the face of the globe but holds in its
embrace the shattered remains of a portion of her fleet,
while the surviving portion hails from other ports.
The tools of the mechanic are silent, and the bustle of
traffic no longer crowds the streets. The wharves are
deserted, decaying, or decayed, and the warehouses
have long been vacant and closed.
To a native of Nantucket, it is a sad sight to thus
see Ichabod written on her desolate places ; to look upon
the ruined wharves and storehouses, and to see even
the "toilers of the sea" themselves look old and
weather-beaten; to see them rapidly nearing that port
The Nantucket Whale Fishery 105
in which the anchor will be cast never to be weighed
again.
Of the early history of whaling at Nantucket, much
is involved in obscurity. In common with all the
hardy settlers of the New England coast, those here
must have paid early attention to fishing, since it
aiforded one of the — by no means numerous — methods
of subsistence to the first comers ; and to men inured to
the sea, and appreciating the value of a pursuit which
had already brought a goodly recompense to the Bis-
cayans, the Dutch, and the English, it was natural that
with the waters adjacent to their island teeming with
the gigantic mammals, they should soon have turned
their attention to the pursuit and capture of the whale.
On the records of the town, under date of June 5,
1672, appears the draft of a proposed agreement be-
tween one James Loper of the one part and the proprie-
tors of the island of Nantucket of the other part. As
this is the first recorded recognition of whale-fishing
in the history of our island, it may be a matter of interest
to the reader, and is in these words:
5th. 4th. mo. 1672 James Lopar doth Ingage to carry on
a design of whale Citching on the Island of Nantuckket,
that is the said James Ingages to be a third in all respeckes,
and som of the Town Ingage also to carrey on the other
two thirds with him in like manner, the Town doth also
Consent, that first one Company shall begin and afterward
the rest of the freeholders or any of them have liberty to
set up another Company Provided that they make a tender
to those freeholders that have no share in the first Company
and if any refuse, the Rest may go on themselves, and the
Town do also Ingage that no other Company shal be al-
lowed hereafter ; also whosoever Ivil any whale of the Com-
pany or Companys aforesaid they ar to pay to the Town
io6 Nantucket
for every such Whale five Shillings — and for the Incorrage-
ment of the said James Lopar the Town doth grant him
Ten acres of Land in som convenant place, that he may
Chuse in, (wood Land exceped) and also Liberty for the
Commonage of the Cows and twenty sheep and one horse
with necesary Wood and water for his use on Conditions
that he follow the Trade of whaleing on the Island two
years in all the season thereof, beginning the first of March
next insuing. Also is to build upon his land, and when he
leaves Inhabiting upon the Island then he is first to ofer
his Land to the Town at a Valluable price, and if the Town
do not buy it — then he may sel it to whome he please —
the commonage is granted only for the time he stays here.
But although this would seem at first glance to imply
that Loper took up his abode among the islanders,
there is no proof that such was the fact. One James
Loper (or Looper) was a resident of Easthampton on
Long Island, and carried on the business of whaling
at that place; but there is no evidence that up to 1678
he had left there, for at that time he was still a tax-
payer in that town. Nowhere else on the Nantucket
records, neither in the proprietors' list of grantees
forwarded to New York in 1674, nor in the record of
lands "layd out by the land layers," is his name men-
tioned, nor does the document just quoted appear to
be signed. In the absence of such evidence, which
must have existed had he removed to the island, we
must conclude that he had no share in giving to the
islanders instruction in the art that subsequently made
them world-renowned.
According to the account of Macy {History of Nan-
tucket),
the first whaling expedition in Nantucket was undertaken
by some of the original purchasers of the island ; the circum-
The Nantucket Whale Fishery 107
stances of which are handed down by tradition, and are
as follows:
"A whale of the kind called 'scragg,' came into the
harbor and continued there three days. This excited the
curiosity of the people, and led them to devise measures to
prevent his return out of the harbor. They accordingly
invented and caused to be wrought for them a harpoon,
with which they attacked and killed the whale. This
first success encouraged them to undertake whaling as a
permanent business, whales being at that time numerous
in the vicinity of the shores."
The date of this expedition does not appear. Our
judgment would be that it was prior to 1672, however,
and that the proposed agreement with Loper was a
result of it.
"In 1690," writes Zaccheus Macy in a communica-
tion to the collection of the Massachusetts Historical
Society "the Nantucketers, finding their neighbors on
Cape Cod more proficient in the art of killing whales
and extracting the oil than themselves, sent thither
and employed Ichabod Paddock to remove to the
island and instruct them on these points." It is prob-
able that the removal was made, and that Ichabod
proved a good teacher; we know that he had apt pupils.
The early stages of whaling on Nantucket did not
require either large vessels or elaborate equipment.
So numerous were the whales that boats were sufficient
for the former and for the latter such "craft" as could
be easily and cheaply made was all that was necessary.
For the purpose of systematizing the work, the
southern shore of the island was arranged in four dis-
tricts, to each of which a crew of six was assigned; the
business as a whole being, however, carried on in com-
mon. Near the center of each division, or about three
io8 Nantucket
and one half miles apart, was erected a mast provided
with cleats, which was used for the purpose of a look-
out. Nearby was built a temporary hut for the pro-
tection of all excepting the one whose station was on
the lookout. When the man at the masthead observed
a whale spouting, the alarm was given, the boats were
manned and launched, and the chase commenced. A
capture made, the whale was towed ashore, and the
oil-producing parts were removed in a similar manner
to the custom on shipboard. Try-works were erected
on the beach and the blubber, which had been cut and
sliced, was subjected to the process of trying out.
These try-works were used for many years after shore-
fishing had ceased as a constant pursuit; the blubber
of the whales captured at sea being cut up and stowed
into casks on board of the vessels, and removed to the
try-works and the oil extracted after they returned
home.
According to Macy's History, the first sperm whale
known to Nantucket people was found on shore dead;
and the discovery, according to the account, created
quite a sensation. In 1712 Christopher Hussey, while
cruising near the island for "right" whales, was blown
some distance offshore, and falling in with a school
of sperm whales, killed one and brought it home. The
discovery of Hussey gave a new turn to the business,
and small vessels of about thirty tons' burden were
fitted out for deep-sea whaling. These vessels were
fitted out for cruises of about six weeks' duration, and
carried a few hogsheads, — enough probably to hold
the blubber from a single whale, which having obtained
they returned home; the owners taking charge of the
blubber and trying out the oil, the vessels sailing again
on another voyage.
The Nantucket Whale Fishery 109
In 1 715 six sloops were engaged in this fishery from
Nantucket. Five years after this, Paul Starbuck, in
the ship Hanover, WilHam Chadder, master, made the
first shipment of oil from Nantucket to England, the
vessel sailing from Boston to London.
In 1723 the Straight Wharf was built for the better
accommodation for the vessels which were demanded
by the necessities of trade and fishing.
In 1730 twenty-five whaling vessels, of from thirty-
eight to fifty tons' burden each, were owned at Nan-
tucket; the returns being about 3700 barrels of oil,
worth £3200.
It was not far from the year 1 726 that the high- water
mark of shore whaling was reached at Nantucket. In
that year eighty-six whales were taken by boats from the
shore. From that time this mode of whaling declined,
and that of carrying on the pursuit by means of vessels
increased. As the boats had been manned in part by
Indians, so the crews of the vessels contained many
aborigines.
In 1732 Davis Strait was visited by whalemen, prob-
ably from Cape Cod, and we may be sure that the sea-
men of Nantucket did not long delay following this
example. It is difficult to prove, however, at what date
trips to that locality commenced. Among the entries
and clearances at Boston in 1737 are several to and
from the strait. Among the names are many familiar
to Nantucket. In 1745 our people loaded a vessel
with oil and sent her direct to England. From this
beginning grew a trade that eventually became world-
wide, — France, Russia, Spain, the nations bordering
on the shores of the Mediterranean, even China con-
tributed in turn directly to the prosperity of our little
isle.
no Nantucket
Matters continued to progress favorably, on the
whole, with our whalemen down to the commencement
of the Revolution. French and Spanish privateers
had captured some of our vessels, and one time forced
them to abandon the northern fishery ; but these troubles
were of short duration, and of little comparative import-
ance as affecting the general thrift.
The Revolution found Nantucket with a fleet of
150 vessels with an aggregate burden of 15,000 tons,
manned by 2025 men and producing 30,000 barrels
of sperm and 4000 barrels of whale oil. Her seamen
were familiar with the Atlantic Ocean from Davis
Strait to the coasts of Guinea and Brazil. The cur-
rent of the Gulf Stream was as familiar to them as the
harbor of their island home ; and the first man to describe
upon a chart that now well-known body of water was,
so far as history informs us, Captain Timothy Folger
of Nantucket.
Every effort was made by the best friends of the
colonies in England to avert war; and it was in the
debates in Parliament, in 1775, upon the adoption of
severe measures towards the colony of Massachusetts
Bay, that that speech of Burke's so familiar to the
people of Nantucket, in which he so warmly eulogized
those engaged in the fisheries, was delivered.
During the Revolution, Nantucket was the only
port from which any attempt was made to carry on the
whale fishery, and from here the work was carried on
under the most discouraging circumstances. No com-
munity in the colonies was so hard pressed as was that
of Nantucket. The Colonial Government was utterly
powerless to protect them, and the island itself was
indefensible, even had the people been disposed to
protect themselves. By far the larger portion of the
The Nantucket Whale Fishery iii
population were of the sect of Friends and abhorred
war as a matter of religious faith. All provisions, fuel,
clothing, the outfits for their vessels, everything that
was needed for their sustenance, had to be brought to
the island ; if they imported nothing, they must perish ;
if they procured their supplies from colonial "ports,
they traded with rebels, and the British seized their
vessels; if they got their supplies from foreign markets,
they were smugglers, and they became a prey to colo-
nial armed vessels and boats. Thus they struggled
through the terrible seven years of war. Realizing
the straits to which the islanders were reduced, the
Colonial Government relaxed the rigors of their laws
as much as was possible, and beyond a doubt closed
their eyes to many things which, under other circum-
stances, they would have punished.
It would be extremely interesting, did space permit,
to follow closely the history of the fishery during the
Revolution, but the limits assigned to this article make
such a narration impossible.
At the earliest moment after peace had been declared,
when safety rendered it expedient, the ship Bedford,
Captain William Mooers with a load of four hundred
and eighty-seven butts of oil, was despatched to London
and to this ship belongs the honor of having been the
first vessel to hoist the American flag in any British
port. ^
Recovery from the disasters of the war was slow.
The principal market for oil was in England ; and to
shut off the importation from America, Parliament
passed an alien duty of £i8 sterling a ton. Although
' F. C. Sanford, Esq., informed the compiler that this was February 3,
1783, and that she arrived at Nantucket from London May 31, 1783,
her entry at the custom house at the time being in his possession.
112 Nantucket
the General Court of Massachusetts, in response to
the petitions of the people of Nantucket, declared a
bounty, it did not permanently remedy the trouble.
So heavy was the pressure brought to bear upon Nan-
tucket by the adverse circumstances immediately
succeeding the Revolution, that large numbers of her
hardy mariners and wealthy merchants were compelled
to leave the home endeared to them by so many happy
associations, and seek in foreign countries the recom-
pense for their toil and their investments that they
were unable to obtain in the United States. Some of
them settled in Nova Scotia, some in England, and
some in France. To the English and French fisheries
there sailed a large number of officers and men who
once found a home on Nantucket.
Following closely upon the stagnation resulting
from the Revolution came the troubles with France,
in which Nantucket suffered to the extent of nearly
$150,000. Then again came complications with Eng-
land early in the nineteenth century. Scarcely had a
slight gain been made, and the business again become
remunerative, when the War of 18 12 occurred. A large
portion of Nantucket's fleet of forty-six whale-ships
was then at sea. The first of the fleet captured was the
schooner Mount Hope; in rapid succession came the
tidings of the capture of ship after ship, until one half of
the number besides smaller vessels, had fallen a prey
to British cruisers. Some were taken on the return
voyage within sight of the island. The miseries and
deprivations of the Revolution were repeated ; the same
struggle for existence was maintained against the same
terrible odds. In February, 1815, came the tidings of
peace, and again our islanders essayed to restore their
shattered fortunes. The first vessel to return to any
The Nantucket Whale Fishery 113
port in the United States with a cargo of oil after the
last war was the sloop Mason's Daughter , which after a
six weeks' voyage returned to Nantucket on the 9th
of July, 1 815, with one hundred barrels of oil.
Recovery from these disasters of 18 12-15 was rapid.
In December, 1820, Nantucket possessed a fleet of
seventy- two whale-ships (aggregating 20,449 tons),
besides brigs, schooners, and sloops.
In 1 8 19 occurred the accident to the ship Essex of
Nantucket which has always been accounted one of
the most singular and direful that has ever happened
to a whaling vessel. An enraged sperm whale attacked
and sunk her, and her crew were obliged to make a
journey of three months' duration, and about 2000
miles in extent in frail, shattered whale-boats. But
eight of the crew of twenty men survived to tell of the
terrible perils and privations of their voyage.
In 1824 occurred another memorable disaster to the
crew of a Nantucket whaling ship. The crew of the
ship Globe mutinied, killing the superior officers and
some of the men. But eight of the crew returned alive
to Nantucket to tell this tale of horror. The others —
those who were not killed by the mutineers — were
massacred by the natives of the Mulgrave Islands,
to which place the vessel had been taken by the
conspirators.
The business of whaling from Nantucket reached
its culmination in 1842 when eighty-six ships, and two
brigs and schooners belonged to the port, having a
capacity of 36,000 tons. From this time the pursuit
from Nantucket declined. Losses from a terrible
visitation of fire, the stampede for the gold mines of
California, the scarcity of whales, the expense of fitting
and increased dangers of the Arctic fishery, the decline
8
114 Nantucket
in the value of the product, the discovery of petroleum,
— all served to cause the downfall of whaling, not only
in Nantucket, but in other ports. In 1869 the last
whale-ship sailed from the port of Nantucket; and the
business, so far as the island's interest is concerned,
is a thing of the past. Nantucket's mariners now sail
from other ports, and the stories of their skill and daring
are stories of by-gone years.
CHAPTER VII
QUAKERISM IN NANTUCKET
" Nothing is more difBcult of explanation than the strength and moral
influence often exerted by obscure and uneventful lives." — John G.
Whittier.
The sect known as Quakers was founded in England,
by George Fox, about the middle of the seventeenth
century.
It has been stated that the name Quakers was first
applied to them in 1650, when George Fox was brought
before the magistrates of Derby, and he having told
them to "quake at the name of the Lord," one of the
magistrates, Gervose Bennet, an Independent, caught
up the word, and, as Fox himself said, "was the first
to call us Quakers."
Without any definite creed of religious faith, the
essential principle of their belief was that an inner
Light "lighteneth every man that cometh into the
world." This formed the basis of the sect's organiza-
tion, and constituted its moral and intellectual claims
for adoption. This inner light was a free gift from
Heaven which dowered every individual bom into the
world, and every soul was responsible for its recognition
and development, while its directing influence was the
unerring guide to the interpretation of the Holy Writ.
115
ii6 Nantucket
In the seventh year of Fox's preaching (about 1650)
there were more than sixty preachers following in his
footsteps, but their peculiar views subjected them to
persecution in every direction. As early as 1647 Fox
had traveled twice to America — at that time little
better than a wilderness — and during the two years of
his sojourn was frequently maltreated, and suffered
persecution and privations innumerable. He was
beaten by a mob and left for dead. Abuse of every
sort, imprisonment in the loathsome jails of that time,
exposure, lack of decent food, all failed to touch his
indomitable spirit; yet, in after years. North America,
became the stronghold of the sect, numbering, as it
did, at one time, over 100,000!
In 1656 two Quaker women — Ann Austin and Mary
Fisher — came to Boston — but they were regarded as
witches, imprisoned, and later banished from the
country. In 1650, three men and one woman were
subsequently hanged for their fanatical zeal. It is
further stated that
the persecutions inflicted upon Quakers, during the first
forty years of their existence, have hardly a parallel in the
history of the last two centuries. Bad as are many of our
prisons now, they are places of comfort compared with the
loathsome dungeons of the 17th century. In these pesti-
lential cells there were confined at one time more than
4000 Quakers.
It has been estimated that there were in the world
200,000 Quakers during part of the nineteenth century,
more than one-half of which flourished in the United
States. Principally, it may be inferred, to escape
persecution a number of Quakers became domiciled
in the quaint, freedom-loving island of Nantucket,
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Photograph by H. S. Wyer
Quakerism in Nantucket 117
early in the eighteenth century, but, although they
met some opposition, they were never maltreated as
they had been on the mainland.
As early as 1664 (as appears from an original official
document never utilized before), Jane Stokes, from
England, was the first "Friend" that visited the island.
In 1698, Thomas Turner, from England, and Thomas
Copperthwaite, from Long Island, both Quakers,
visited Nantucket.
Thomas Chalkley, an Englishman, arrived in June
of the same year; also John Easton and Joanna Mott,
from Rhode Island. In 1699 came Ebenezer Slocum,
Jacob Mott, and his son, from Rhode Island.
In 1700 (from which year, the writer essays to faintly
trace the history of Quakerism in Nantucket), Thomas
Story arrived from England, and John Butler from
Ireland. From this time forward, the leaven of the
new doctrine began to work, and gradually propagated
itself. Several other visiting Friends arrived in the
meanwhile from England and various parts of the United
States. Thus, in June, 1701, Thomas Thompson from
England, and Jacob Mott, with Walter Clark, from
Rhode Island, came amongst them, as did also, during
July of the same year, John Clark, from England, and
Susannah Freeborn and Ruth Fry, from Rhode Island.
Between 1701 and 1708 the following visiting Friends
arrived :
April, 1702: Jedediah Allen, from New Jersey;
Thomas Cornell, from New Jersey; John Richardson,
from England ; James Bates, from Virginia ; Jacob Mott,
from Rhode Island; Susannah Freeborn, from Rhode
Island; Peleg Slocum (first visit), from Dartmouth.
June, 1703: John Kinsey, from England; Richard
Gove, from England; John Hussey, from England;
ii8 Nantucket
Ephraim Hicks, from Rhode Island; Peleg Slocum
(second visit), from Dartmouth.
1704: Thomas Chalkley, Richard Harper, Mary
Slocum, from England.
April, 1705: Samuel Bownas, Mary Banister, from
England.
July, 1705 : Ann Chapman, from England ; Hugh Cop-
perthwaite, from Long Island ; Peleg Slocum (third visit) ,
from Dartmouth ; William Anthony, from Rhode Island.
January, 1706: John Fothergill, celebrated London
physician; William Comstead, from England; John
Smith, from Philadelphia; Susanna Freeborn, from
Rhode Island; Hope Borden, from Rhode Island.
June, 1706: Joseph Man ton, from Rhode Island;
Ephraim Hicks, from Rhode Island; Mary Lason, from
England; Esther Palmer, from Rhode Island.
1707: Jacob Mott and wife, from Rhode Island.
It was fortimate for the success of the new religious
movement that it received its first impulse from such
zealous and eloquent preachers as Thomas Chalkley,
who arrived in 1698, Thomas Story, who came in 1700,
and John Richardson, who followed them in 1702.
These three Englishmen were stalwart upholders of
the new faith — well-versed in all its details, while pos-
sessing enthusiastic temperaments, persuasive tongues,
and rhetorical experience — and their meetings in
Nantucket were not only well attended, but effective
and highly appreciated by the islanders. There was
an undercurrent of opposition to their peculiar views
at first, but it never became aggressive, and was con-
fined almost entirely to the official authorities, while
no repressive measures were instituted. Little by
little the tenets of the new religionists influenced the
minds and hearts of the Nantucketers.
Quakerism in Nantucket 119
In 1 70 1, at the age of fifty-six, principally through
the preaching of Story, Mary Starbuck became inter-
ested in the faith of the Quakers, and no event could
have been better calculated to give a great impetus
to the new movement which had already been inaugu-
rated, for, from that time, she took the spiritual concern
of the whole island under her special superintendence.
Mary Starbuck was the seventh child of Tristram
Coffin — the mother of four sons and six daughters —
a woman of strong magnetic personality and extra-
ordinary administrative ability, who had a judicial
mind, clear understanding, and possessed a genius for
participating in public, social, and domestic duties.
She was withal a fluent and impressive speaker, and the
whole island looked up to and consulted her in all
matters of importance. She became one of the most
celebrated preachers among the Friends, and gained
many converts by her stirring and heart-touching
addresses. In her own home she had a large room,
known as the "Parliament House," and here the
meetings took place during four years.
In April, 1708, the Quakers were fully established
in Nantucket, and in this year they sought communion
(by means of a petition to the Rhode Island Yearly
Meeting) with some "Quarterly Meeting," and to have
a yearly meeting of their own. The latter was duly
established. They evidently became affiliated with
the Rhode Island and Sandwich Quarterly meetings,
and a special note in an unpublished official return
states that "the first quarterly meeting held at Nan-
tucket was on the ist of the seventh month, 1782."
Be this as it may, from 1708 the sect gained so rapidly
that, in 171 1, they secured a lot, serving for meeting-
house and burying-ground, and built their first meeting-
120 Nantucket
house a little to the southeast of the ancient burial
ground; and in 1717 they were obliged to enlarge this
by adding twenty feet more to its length.
Mary Starbuck died on December 13, 17 19, and her
death was a serious loss to the community.
In or about 1720, the town was moved from Wanna-
comet to Wesko — the present Nantucket — and the
Quakers, still increasing, resolved to build a new and
larger meeting-house in the new town, which they
accomplished in 1731, at the comer of Main and Sara-
toga Streets, in the space still known as the "Quaker
Burial Ground," and here the Friends held their meet-
ings and flourished for over sixty years.
Still increasing rapidly in numbers, and finding their
second meeting-house inconvenient, owing to its remote
situation, the Friends once more, in 1792, determined
to build a still larger house on the comer of Main and
Pleasant Streets, and, in the building of this, much of
the material of the former house was utilized. It was
a spacious building of two stories, fifty-six feet long
and thirty-eight feet wide, and, owing to its size, had
on several occasions been used as a courthouse, and
also for holding the annual meetings of Nantucket
Friends, added to those of adjacent or affiliated centers.
In the autumn of the same year (1792), they erected
yet another meeting-house — the fourth — in order to
accommodate the northern members. This was situ-
ated on Broad Street, but was not so large as that on
Main and Pleasant Streets. The membership was
divided between these two meeting-houses, according
to locality of residence, and up to the end of the eigh-
teenth century, both houses were filled with large con-
gregations, each being active, vigorous, and flourishing.
A Nantucket monthly meeting was not established
Quakerism in Nantucket 121
until 1794; and the monthly meeting was the real source
of power among the Friends.
During this period, the success of the Quaker organ-
ization reached its climax, and the elders had secured
a hold upon the islanders such as no other religious
denomination had ever acquired. They professed that
although in the world, they were not of it, and therefore
despised and spurned every form of worldliness, al-
though in this matter they were frequently inconsistent.
They were rigidly economical, and were opposed to a
paid ministry, or to the slightest extravagance in
outward attire, as a principle, and they had no sym-
pathy with anything calculated to make earthly life
either happy or even pleasant; but they were absolute
in their self-righteousness, unnatural in their formal-
istic aceticism, and as time wore on they tightened their
authoritative grasp upon all concerned.
Their form of church government consisted of a
select committee comprising the "unco guid" in the
community and connected with each meeting-house;
monthly meetings for business and religious purposes;
quarterly meetings, at which the agenda of monthly
meetings were further discussed, and to which all
matters concerning the monthly meetings were reported ;
and yearly meetings, at which the combined power and
wisdom of the organization considered and determined
the discussions, findings, and suggestions of the various
quarterly meetings "for the good of the order."
From a Hst of English and off-island Friends who had
visited the society at Nantucket from 1698 to 1845 —
the year when the "sorrowful division" took place — it
appears that Thomas Chalkley, from England (later
of Philadelphia), visited the island four times, viz: in
1698, 1704, 1713, and 1737.
122 Nantucket
Phebe Nichols, afterwards wife of James Newbegin,
in June, 1746.
John Woolman, in June, 1747.
Samuel Fothergill, Esq., in 1755.
Elias Hicks (subsequent Reformer), 1793.
John Wilbur, of Hopkinton, Reformer, 1818, 1829,
1836, and 1839.
Joseph John Gumey, of Norwich, England, Reformer,
1838.
Curiously enough, one of the visitors in 1793 was
Benedict Arnold of Smithfield. The name of Lucretia
Mott does not appear at all, either on the visitors'
list, or on an official "List of Female Members of
Nantucket Monthly Meeting," dated "8th month,
1851."
Before the end of the i8th century, when the popu-
lation of the island was 5617, nearly one-half of this
number belonged to the Society of Friends.
It may here be in order to glance rapidly at some of
the intrinsic causes which, originating early in the 1 8th
century, became gradually more potential during the
19th century, and ultimately broke up and completely
disintegrated the Society of Friends in Nantucket.
A few of these can only be outlined here in the faintest
manner; but fortunately Henry Barnard Worth has
ably described the strife and subsequent divisions which
hastened the decline of Quakerism on Nantucket
during the last century of its existence, in one of the
Bulletins of the Nantucket Historical Association' to
which the attention of all interested in the matter is
specially directed.
For some years after the beginning of the 17th cen-
tury the Quaker organization was flourishing on the
' Papers of Nantucket Historical Association, vol. i., bulletin i.
Quakerism in Nantucket 123
old lines although their members had been thinned by
an exodus from the island, by the War of 18 12, and by
the institution of more popular sects. Symptoms of
cleavage had also manifested themselves, arising from
austere and uncompromising discipline, but in 1827-28,
a great schism, which arose in the Philadelphia yearly
meeting, almost disrupted the organization, and caused
a permanent division in the American branch of the
society. The orthodox party protested against the
heretical teaching of Elias Hicks, which threw doubt
upon the absolute divinity of Christ, and the full
meaning of the Atonement, while the Hicksites pro-
tested against unwarrantable interference with the
liberty of individual belief. The division was, however,
restricted to the Friends on the mainland, and did not
affect Nantucket until 1830.
Elias Hicks was a farmer in Long Island, and had
for many years been a Quaker preacher, with a well-
deserved reputation as an orator. In 1830, a preacher
representing Hicks's views came to Nantucket, and
those who sympathized with his views succeeded in ob-
taining a meeting-place; so successful were his efforts
that many of those who heard him, — including a number
of those who had hitherto been staunch supporters of the
orthodox sect, — were convinced by his preaching, and
broke away from the original organization. Popular
interest in the society gradually declined, and the
membership of the sect was by degrees becoming less
and less. On May 13, 1829, it was thought advisable
to close one of the two meeting-houses which had been
in such a flourishing condition at the beginning of the
century, and accordingly the house in Broad Street,
which had been instituted to meet the convenience of
the northern section of the society, was dissolved and
124 Nantucket
the remnant of members was transferred to the older
meeting-house on Main Street.
In 1833, the Hicksites, who became affiliated with
the Westbury Quarterly meeting of Long Island, pur-
chased a lot on Main Street on which in 1836, or 1837,
they erected a large meeting-house where they met
during several years, but with gradually decreasing
congregations, until finally the building was sold.
After its sale it was known as Atlantic Hall, and was
used for various secular purposes.
In 1833, also, the orthodox Friends resolved to re-
move from their meeting-house on Main Street, which
was no longer convenient, and, having purchased a lot
on the west side of Fair Street, they erected, on the
southern part of it, a large two-story building, which
was opened for worship during September of that year.
A little to the north was another building, which was
utilized as a school-house.
The old meeting-house on Main Street was sold
and removed to Commercial Wharf as a warehouse.'
Up to 1845 the orthodox Friends continued in the
old paths, but in addition to other influences their
rigorous disciplinary code was gradually reducing their
membership more and more.
For a number of years previous to 1832 a new schis-
matic movement had been gradually spreading itself
among the members of the society generally through
the teaching of Mr. Joseph John Gumey, an educated
Englishman who, although belonging to an old Quaker
family, introduced the study and interpretation of the
Bible into the sect, as the sole guide in religion, instead
of entire dependence upon the Holy Spirit. Gurney's
powerful and persuasive pleading made him very
' H. B. Worth.
Quakerism in Nantucket 125
popular in England, as well as in America, and gained
him many adherents, and in him the orthodox Quakers
recognized an iconoclastic opponent far more dangerous
than Hicks had been. Matters came to a climax in
the New England Yearly Meeting at Newport, in 1845.
After thirty years of a severe struggle, and although
the American Friends had appointed John Wilbur of
Hopkinton, R. I., as far back as 1838, to oppose Gumey
and his heretical propaganda, Gumey had carried every-
thing before him in Great Britain, and every meeting
he addressed had approved not only his preaching but
his teaching. In New England, however, the bitterest
contest was waged, and the Friends became divided
into Wilburites and Gumeyites. Nantucket favored
the Wilburites and stood out for the essential of the
old Quaker faith; and when the division took place in
the Nantucket meeting the majority was found to
favor the Yv^ilburites, — the only section which had
remained faithful to the old principles throughout
New England.
A decision of the Supreme Court with regard to a
division of property favored the Gumeyites, who
demanded from the Fair Street Friends their meeting-
house, records, and other property in accordance with
the decision. To this demand no reply was given.
The Gumeyites therefore sought temporary quar-
ters, and on New Year's Day, 1846, had made arrange-
ments for securing Atlantic Hall, where they continued
to meet until November, 1850, when a new meeting-
house, which they had been building, was ready for
occupation, on Centre Street. Here they remained
until 1866, when all their property was transferred to
the New Bedford Monthly Meeting, and their last
meeting was held on January 10, 1867. This building
126 Nantucket
is now a part of the "Roberts House" property and is
used as a dining-room in connection with that hotel.
The orthodox members, or Wilburites, after 1845,
struggled on with varying success until 1863, when the
society was weak and dwindling. Under these cir-
cumstances they deemed it advisable to sell their
Fair Street meeting-house, but the Centre Street
representatives put in a claim against it, and would not
allow the property to be sold without their permission.
At length by mutual concessions it was arranged that
the deed of sale should be signed by both parties and
it was ultimately sold and carried off the island. The
north part of the property was repurchased by the ortho-
dox Friends, and the building that had been used as a
school-house was remodeled into a meeting-house in 1864.
Only one member of the Nantucket orthodox Friends
resided in the town in 1894, ^.nd as there were only
twenty-three persons in the Nantucket Monthly Meet-
ing altogether, it was therefore determined to sell the
meeting-house, and, in June of this year, it became the
property of the Nantucket Historical Association, who
still hold it as part of their premises.
Beginning about 1700, and flourishing for a century,
—at the end of which their membership amounted to
thousands, — at the end of another century their last
members, William Hosier, in 1899, and Eunice Paddock,
in 1900, both died, and to-day there is not a single
representative living in Nantucket. Such a history
as this surely conveys a useful lesson, which cannot
be better formulated than in the following apt and
forcible words by Mr. Henry B. Worth:
... If they had established a better proportioned the-
ology; if they had not obscured or undervalued any portion
Quakerism in Nantucket 127
of Divine Truth, wherever revealed ; if they had abandoned
their discipline and allowed the laws of the land to deal
with offenders ; if, instead of expelling members for trivial
offenses, they had exercised towards them a wise charity;
if, instead of maintaining their society as an organization
composed of men and women who never departed from
rectitude, it had been regarded as a portion of the Church
of Christ, in which were men and women of every degree
of moral acquirements; if their beautiful system of sim-
plicity had been built on the rock, and not on sandy
foundations they might have been as vigorous to-day as
they were a century ago.^
There can be little doubt that, in proportion to its
numbers, no other sect has so influenced public opinion
as the Quakers, and it would be difficult to find a parallel
under similar circumstances to their active and practical
philanthropy. The consistent purity of their lives,
and their united protest against immoraHty in every
form have had a restraining and civilizing force which
can be compared with no other similar movement of
modem times; but they became too prosperous and
this resulted in the development of a tendency towards
arbitrariness and despotism in connection with the
enforcement of their disciplinary code, which harassed
and ultimately disgusted the rank and file of the
membership.
• Quakerism, in its essentials, was Utopian and reac-
tionary — a dream of spirituality incompatible with the
vital experiences and intellectual expansiveness of
humanity. While generally law-abiding, the Quakers 1
instituted a code of their own which made no allowance 1
for the conventionaHties of life sanctioned by custom
and experience; nor did they recognize the recreative
' Optis cit.
128 Nantucket
form of human activity or the usual amenities of poHte
societies; in fact, their narrow and inelastic formalism
excluded the rational exercise of instinctive pleasures
to a vanishing point.
Acknowledging no duty to the state, and holding v
themselves aloof from all the political duties of citizen- '
ship, they outlawed themselves and were persecuted
for it; but among their own people, and especially in
the social life of their membership, they gradually '
assumed a rigidity of discipline which eventually became
intolerable. They frowned upon music, mirth, and
sports of every kind, and even dogmatized as to the
apparel which young people should or should not wear,
and to every infraction of their Draconic code punish- ,
ment was invariably meted out; while in everything^
concerning love, courtship, and marriage they adopted
such inquisitorial espionage as in these latter days
would have caused a rebellion.
Their zeal for purity, and for what they called "the
good order of truth," was doubtless commendable, but
they went too far, and failed to foresee or to recognize
the spirit of tolerance which was evolving itself in all
directions; the standard of ethics which they imposed
so rigorously was far too high; in a word, they sought
to oppose the rising wave of intellectual expansion
which was gradually overspreading the country, by a
too restrictive formaHsm in faith and morals, and
thus becoming submerged their numbers melted away.
Flattering themselves that they alone enshrined the
"Inner Light," the Quakers assumed the right to be-
lieve that all who remained out of their pale were
heterodox and heretical. "Pride goes before a fall,"
and thus, becoming autocratic and tyrannical, they
gradually instituted a system of petty despotism, under
Quakerism in Nantucket 129
the guise of discipline, which, even at the cHmax of
their success, thinned the ranks of their followers, and
later disrupted the organization altogether.
Human nature, even in religious matters, is much
the same in all places and at all times. The Quakers
but followed in the footsteps of the Pilgrims and the
Puritans who preceded them, in dictating to the world
what was right and what was wrong; but the world
still goes on, buoyed up by Hope. Truth-seekers are
everywhere, but
God's in His Heaven —
All's right with the world.
By way of postscript it may be stated that the first
burial ground of the Quakers was situated just to the
west of Elihu Coleman's house on the old Madeket
road, but, left for many years without a stone, a fence,
or any kind of protection, it has long been unrecogniz-
able, and no one could imagine that it had ever been
a place of interment.
In the latest burying place of the Quakers, at the
corner of Upper Main and Saratoga Streets, with the
exception of a few small markers in the Hicksite section,
there is nothing to indicate that, beneath the weedy
grass of the enclosure, between nine and ten thousand
human bodies are buried without even a flower to
mark any of their graves, and yet there is none of the
older Nantucket families whose ancestors are not
sleeping their last sleep in this neglected field.
9
CHAPTER VIII
NANTUCKET RECORDS
The records of Nantucket County and Town cover
a period of nearly 250 years, and are contained in
about 170 volumes embracing
Land Transfers
Vital Statistics
Court Proceedings
Probate Records
Town-AIeeting Records
Proprietors' Records
Financial Transactions
and a host of incidental matters, in later years separated
and properly classified, but in the early days wofully
intermingled.
From 1660 to 1693, Nantucket was subject to the
Province of New York, and all public documents were
lodged in New York State House until 1795, when they
were transferred to Albany. After 1692, when Nan-
tucket was ceded to Massachusetts, all such papers
were sent to Boston, where they remain in the State
House.
In 1 67 1, the town was incorporated under a Patent
130
Nantucket Records 131
from Governor Francis Lovelace. By this Patent it
was authoritatively decreed that certain lands were
purchasable from the Indians by the English, and that
such purchases would be ratified and confirmed by the
English King and Parliament.
In 1687, another Patent was rendered necessary by
the capture of New York by the Dutch, and Dongan's
Patent was issued on June 27, 1687. By this document
a general grant of the entire island was secured, which
rendered unnecessary the provisions imposed by Love-
lace's Patent with regard to the English being com-
pelled to have all purchases from the Indians fully
confirmed ; and thus were consolidated all the privileges
granted by previous Patents on a basis which secured
all the island's municipal rights.
In 1692, Nantucket, with the adjacent islands, re-
verted to the governance of Massachusetts Province
in accordance with a special act of Parliament, and in
the following year all grants previously made with the
sanction of the governors of New York were confirmed
by a law of the General Court, and thus all land-
rights vested in the settlers were fully secured and
confirmed by Dongan's Patent, wh.ch was indeed
their Magna Charta. This voluminous document
is copied in full in Hough's Book of Nantucket
Deeds, and the original may be seen in the Nantucket
Registry.
Fortunately all the deeds and papers concerning
Nantucket, which were transferred to the State capital
at Albany in 1795, were copied and published by Mr.
Hough of the Secretary of State's office, in 1856,
and a list of the principal documents is herewith
reproduced ^ :
'Hough's Papers Relating to the Island of Nantucket, 1856.
132 Nantucket
Passing over some deeds concerning Martha's
Vineyard, and others already given or referred to in
this volume, there are several grants or disposals of
land upon Nantucket, dated from 1659 to 1670, with
regard to, inter alia, the prescribed limits of house-lots,
the bestowal of several half-shares, and the appoint-
ment of a seaman, a weaver (Thomas Macy), a shoe-
maker (Joseph Gardner), and a "Taylour" (Nathaniel
Holland).
Next, Captain John Gardner's grant as a seaman,
dated August 15, 1672. Governor Francis Lovelace's
"Notice to the Inhabitants of Nantucket," etc., calling
upon them to make proof of their claims, etc., dated
May 16, 1670, and a certificate of appointment of
Tristram Coffin to appear for them, dated April 2,
1671.
The proposals of the Nantucketers about set-
tling the government to the governor (undated:
Deeds, iii., 59. Secretary's office), and the gov-
ernor's answers to above proposals, dated June 28,
1671.
Commission granted to Tristram Coffin as Chief
Magistrate, June 29, 1671.
Instructions to Mr. Mayhew, as Governor and Chief
Magistrate of Martha's Vineyard, to consult and co-
operate with Tristram Coffin as Chief Magistrate of
Nantucket: undated. {Deeds, iii., 71. Secretary's
office.)
Additional instructions and directions for govern-
ment of island of Nantucket, sent by Richard and John
Gardner, April 18, 1673.
License to purchase lands for the purpose of estab-
lishing "a fishing trade" upon Nantucket. Dated,
April 15, 1673.
Nantucket Records 133
Richard Gardner's Commission as Chief Magistrate
of Nantucket and " Tuckanuckett," April 15, 1673.
Commission of John Gardner to be Captain of Foot
Company on the island. April 15, 1673.
Letter from Secretary to inhabitants of Nantucket
dated April 24, 1673, acknowledging receipt of "8
barrells of ffish for two yeares," and a token of "fifty
weight of ffeathers," etc.
A Petition from Tristram Coffin and Mr. Mayhew
{Colonial MSS., xxiv., secretary's office) with regard
to interpretation of charter.
Thomas Mayhew to Governor Andros, as to Gorge's
Patent, etc., April 12, 1665.
A petition from Nantucket to Governor Andros,
praying that the liberties and rights conferred upon
them by Governor Lovelace's charter "may not be
impaired or diminished by any pretence of other aver-
saries whatsoever."
Sharborn, the 12 Aprill, 1675.
An order to the Magistrates of Nantucket for per-
mitting searches and copies of their records to be
taken.
E. Andros, April 17, 1675.
Petition and proposals from Tristram Coffin and
Mr. Mayhew (dated April 7, 1675), to the Governor
as to charter rights.
Petition of Magistrates and others of Nantucket to
Governor Andros, concerning same. Dated April
28, 1675.
Instructions and orders for establishing Courts and
Prudential Bye-Laws in Martin's Vineyard and Nan-
tucket, from Governor Andros, dated April 25, 1675.
"To Governor Andros"
"Petition from Peter Foulger about proceedings
134 Nantucket
at the General Court of Martin's Vineyard, 1676."
Dated "from Shearburn as a prisoner, March 2^] , 167!."
Letter from Thomas Macy to the Governor, dated
May 9, 1676, concerning the drinking habits of the
natives.
Letter from John Gardner to the Governor, during
the "insurrectionary period," dated 15th March, 1677.
Sentence of Captain John Gardner (for refusing to
appear at the Quarter Court, after being summoned),
disfranchising him, and fining him £10.
Appeal of John Gardner: undated (iV. Y. Col. MSS.,
xxvi., sec. office).
Decision of case of John Gardner.
"At a Councell, August 3d, 1677."
Order about John Gardner and Peter Ffoulger,
Septr. 21, 1677.
Decision of a Court of Admiralty held at Nantucket
with reference to Tristram Coffin's having sold part
of a derelict.
Tristram Coffin to Governor Andros, Nantucket,
August 30, 1680.
A discharge of Tristram Coffin from the judgment
of the Court of Admiralty compounded. Dated 6th
of November, 1680.
Charges against Joseph Coleman for "revilling and
reprochefull speaches against authority." March 25,
1864.
Commission for pursuing a Pirate. Signed by Gov-
ernor Dongan.
March 30, 1685,
Petition of Stephen Hussey (New York, August 12,
1686), about ten or eleven gallons of Rum of which
Joseph Gardner forcibly dispossessed him.
Dongan's Patent, dated June 2y, 1687.
Nantucket Records 135
TOWN RECORDS^
From 1 66 1 to 1671 (when the town was incorporated
in accordance with Lovelace's Patent), whatever govern-
ment was in force on the island was exercised entirely
and absolutely by the landowners. The settlers had
previously applied to the Governor of New York, and
made certain proposals about a settled government
{Deeds, iii., 59, Secretary's Office), and, in answer to
these proposals, "at a Councell held at Forte James in
New York, ye 28th day of June in ye 23d years of his
Ma 'ties Reigne Annoq Dom. 1671" the Governor sug-
gested the formation of a General Court consisting of
two Chief Magistrates, one in Martha's Vineyard and
the other in Nantucket, — one acting as President in
each Court, and acting in concert together, with two
Assistants in each place. With additional instructions
and directions a form of government was thus consti-
tuted, and the town being duly organized and incor-
porated the inhabitants met periodically to transact
municipal business.
The Town Records were instituted in 1699, and now
consist of some twenty volumes in addition to nine or
ten volumes of Vital Statistics. They contain the
records of the Town-meetings and therefore the pro-
posals, votes, discussions, and resolutions of all the
town business, — the appointments of all municipal
and county officers — the votes for Governor, Senator,
and Representative, all appropriations of municipal
' In the compilation of this chapter the writer acknowledges his
indebtedness to the State Library, New York, the State Library, Boston,
Hough's Pap^/'S concerning Nantucket, H. Barnard Worth's Nantucket
Lands and Landowners, Dr. C. E. Banks's History of Martha's Vineyard,
and principally to the courtesy of the departmental staff of the Nan-
tucket Public Record offices.
136 Nantucket
funds, the selection of petty and grand jurors, and every-
thing concerning the government, regulation, and
administration of the town.
Before a separate book was kept for recording the
town-meetings' business and ordinances, viz: from
1662-99, the limitations of space will prevent anything
but the most meager reference to the matters recorded.
Fortunately none of the entries is of much historical
importance.
At a meeting held in 1663 it was ordered that "no
man shall fell or make use of any timber on Cowatu
(Coatue), except it be for building houses, upon the
penalty of ten shillings for every tree impred to any
other use."
On September, 1664, at a meeting of the town it
was ordered that "the clerk shall have for his wages
twenty shillings p. Ann. beginning at ye yeere 62."
Again later (1667). "Every Indian to kill his dogs
before March loth or be fined."
November 20, 1669. Stephen Coffin to keep the
pound "when once there is a lock to it, and he is to
have twopence a time for turning the key to lock or
unlock the pound."
November 30, 1 670 . "No hogs to be placed upon any
land belonging to any Indiand."
October 16, 1671. "Thomas Macy to have five
pounds for going to New York."
January 19, 1679. "The town-meeting was held at
the house of Nathaniel Barnard."'
And so on until 1699.
The earliest vital statistics are also found among the
town records, thus: The first death recorded on the
' A few more quotations from early Town Records may be found in
Chapter XV.
Nantucket Records 137
island was that of Jean Godfrey, afterwards Bunker,
wife of Richard Swain, who died October 31, 1662.
The first birth was that of Mary, daughter of Natha-
niel Starbuck, who was bom March 30, 1663.
The first marriage was that of William Worth and
Sarah Macy, on April 11, 1665.
At a Town-meeting held at Sherbom, January 17,
1784, it was voted "that the workhouse near the jail
be repaired." This was presumably on the lot still
occupied by the jail v/hich was erected in 1775.
At the same meeting it was voted "that our repre-
sentatives be entrusted to move for a Light-house to
be erected on the end of our large Point, called Sandy
Point, in the next sessions of the General Court."
Also that "the selectmen be a Committee to rent
out the Town-House for any Term not exceeding one
year for a school-house to such person and upon such
a Term as they shall think proper during the recess
of public business."
At a meeting at Sherbom, July 2"], 1785, "The votes
for a County Register were brought in and bundled
up in order to be opened next Court."
The following is selected from a Report of the Finance
Committee for 1850, and appears on p. 149 of Town
Records for 1849-52:
The undersigned regret the absence of their comrades,
the only two gentlemen who signed the Financial report
of last year, and who were also members of this Committee,
one of whom, beloved by all, has quietly passed away to
that "bourne from whence no traveler returns."
The absence of the other gentleman, owing to his having
left the island, is alluded to in language equally rhetorical.
138 Nantucket
The Report of the Committee of Firewards contains
the following on page 116 of Records for 1849-52.
After providing for the licensing of dogs :
It is hereby further instituted, resolved, and enacted that
the Selectmen be, and they are hereby requested, authorised,
and empowered to appoint and employ one or more judi-
cious and discreet men whose duty it shall be to kill and
destroy all and any dogs and puppies of the canine species
which may be found running at large without collars,
provided that it be done in as quiet and humane manner
as possible, and as much as can be conveniently done away
from the more compact part of the town, and the presence
of the citizens generally.
What follows is selected from a Report of the Health
Committee in the same volume, and it speaks for itself.
After animadverting upon measures to restrain the
public use of alcohol, the report goes on to say:
How different it would have been if our supposed wise had
have been really wise enough, have turned their attention
to the consideration of the best interest of their constituents
by endeavoring to find out some method to preserve the
public health and morals and prevent and assuage that rag-
ing pestilence which still scatters its ruinous consequences
throughout our State; and among the least of its evils
costs every community a large proportion of its annual
earnings: had they have done this Massachusetts might
now have worn the brightest jewel that ever adorned any
State or nation ; that jewel is now worn by her noble sister
daughter, the State of Maine, and well may the son of that
thrice-honored Commonwealth walk erect and feel that
they have indeed attained a preeminence, a glory beyond
all Grecian, beyond all Roman fame.
The Old Bay State should have won it, 'twas her's, and
it would have been her's but that too many of her noble
Nantucket Records 139
sons were diverted from the pursuit of pure glory, by the
petty, party interests of the day, old hunker conservatism
and the preservation of old errors on the one hand, and
truck dicker and gluten on the other; but, let it pass, her
daughters achieved the true Kohinoor, mountain of light,
compared to which that all the World's Fair is but a-bauble.
We speak of the acquisition of this honorable fame by our
sister State only in relation to the conservation of public
health which though not its most blessed consequence, yet
it is only secondary to that purity of heart which it may
reasonably be hoped will prevail wherever alcohol is not
used as a common beverage, but when it is so used, never,
no never.
From which it appears that there was much Prohibi-
tion eloquence in those earlier days!
The Town Records have been well-preserved, and
are in excellent order. It only remains to be said that
they contain much interesting and entertaining matter.
The first volume of the Selectmen's Journal, beginning
April 9, 1784 — the only volume accessible of an early
date — is preserved in the Town Clerk's office, and is
all the more interesting and valuable inasmuch as the
subsequent early journals are missing. Its contents,
however, are of little historical importance, consisting
mainly of receipted bills, permits, town warrants, etc.
COURT RECORDS
The first Nantucket court records are contained in
Book 2, in the Registry of Deeds, and the first entry is
dated September 21, 1672. As the settlers took posses-
sion of the island eleven years previously, it is reason-
able to surmise that a court of some kind must have
been instituted and records duly kept before 1672,
especially as the Indians had to be kept in subjection,
I40 Nantucket
and many cases, doubtless, occurred among the whites
and the aborigines, and between the Indians themselves,
if not among the whites, which would necessitate ju-
dicial intervention. However, no court records of any
kind, concerning the earliest administration of the
island, have been discovered.
The absence of such records is accounted for by the
fact that there was a feud, beginning in 1673 and con-
tinuing for some years, between two parties of the
islanders, one section being partisans of Tristram Coffin,
and the other of John Gardner, who were implacable
rivals. Peter Coffin had been elected Assistant Magis-
trate and Peter Folger (who was clerk of the writs and
recorder to the General Court of the island) resented
the appointment, and "refused to perform the func-
tions required of him by the Chief Magistrate." Folger
refused to produce his "Court Booke," and he was
indicted for contempt, and bound over in £20 to appear
at the New York Assizes. Finding no bondsmen, he
was placed in prison whereof he writes :
A place where never any Englishman was put, and where
the Neighbors Hoge had layd but the night before, and in a
bitter cold Frost and deep Snow. They had only thrown
out most of the Durt Hoge Dung and vSnow. The Rest the
Constable told me I might ly upon if I would, that is upon
the Boards in that Case, and without victuals or Fire.
Indeed I perswaded him to fetch a little Hay, and he did
so, and some Friend did presently bring in some Beding
and Victuals.
He was imprisoned on February 14, 1677, and in
June of that year the missing court records had not
been produced ; and it was not until about two months
later that Governor Andros ordered his release.
Nantucket Records 141
Whether the book was destroyed or not is unknown,
nor has it ever apparently been discovered, notwith-
standing a report that the missing book had been
found. The writer has taken pains to find out if there
were any truth in the report, but no member of the
official staff at the town offices had ever heard of such
a discovery.
This "Little Record Book" doubtless contained the
court records from 1661 to 1672 or after, and its loss
has been acutely felt. It is believed that all the other
records in every department are practically perfect and
complete.
As has already been referred to, a judicial tribunal
to be elected annually was established in 1672, in
accordance with Governor Lovelace's order of June
28, 1671, and was regularly sustained until 1692.
In 1672 Richard Gardner was elected Chief Magistrate.
In 1673 Thomas Macy was elected Chief Magistrate.
In 1674 Tristram Coffin was elected Chief Magis-
trate.
In 1675 John Gardner was elected Chief Magistrate.
In 1673 Peter Folger was appointed Clerk, and,
after his imprisonment, William Worth succeeded to
the appointment.
In addition to the above offices there were nine
Assistant Magistrates or Deputy Justices. ^
The Court, as above constituted, had plenary juris-
diction over "all matters civil, criminal, probate, and
appeal from Indian Courts, in which the penalty did
not involve forfeiture of life."^
The Court of Common Pleas was established in 1 720.
The Records consist of twelve volumes up to 19 12,
' H. Barnard Worth, opus ciL, p. io6. ' Ibid., p. 107.
142 Nantucket
Volume I containing records dated from October 5,
1725, to October 4, 1785; and Volume 2 containing
records from March 28, 1786, to December 28, 1802.
REGISTRY OF DEEDS (cOUNTY RECORDS)
Exclusive of plans and indices these records are con-
tained in volumes numbered from i to 95.
Volumes 1,2, and 3 are the most important because
they contain most of the early historical matter.
Volume I contains land transfers for the most part,
records of early town-meetings, court matters, allot-
ments of land, etc. The first deed recorded is dated
1659. Up to page 77 the book consists of ordinances
relating to the organization of, and laws for, town
management at town-meetings. These were first
described as meetings of freeholders, but subsequently
as of trustees or selectmen. The remaining two-
thirds of the book (which is inverted from page i to
109) consists mainly of transfers and sets-off of land
dating from 1664.
It is impossible here to chronicle the various deeds,
but they have all been copied by Mr. H. Barnard
Worth, and the copies at some future time will be de-
posited at the rooms of the Nantucket Historical Asso-
ciation. A few of the more important deeds may be
enumerated here, viz: The conveyance of the island
of Tuckernuck to Tristram Coffin et alt: by Governor
Lovelace, on June 29, 1671 ; the deed appointing Tris-
tram Coffin as Chief Magistrate, instead of Thomas
Macy, by Governor Andros, dated September 15, 1677.
The protest of Spotso and other Indians against the
English settlers for placing them at a disadvantage
with regard to their lands (undated).
Nantucket Records 143
Deed annexing Tuckernuck to Nantucket, June 6,
1713-
Protest and petition of Seikinnou and Spotso to
Lord Bellamont, concerning transactions with the
settlers.
Curiously enough among these deeds is included an
ordinance of the freeholders, dated at their meeting
held on December 31, 1686, to the effect that owing to
sheep having been chased on the island by dogs, all
dogs must in future be muzzled; and that, whether
muzzled or not, all dogs found harrying sheep should
in future be killed.
Book 2 contains items of court procedure, land
transfers, and lay-outs.
Passing over the court proceedings, the deed of
sale of the west part of the island by the Indians to
Tristram Coffin et alt: is recorded, bearing date May
10, 1660.
There are also numerous Indian deeds, a few being
written in the Indian language.
Matthew May hew' s renunciation of Nantucket
property, January 6, 172I.
Thomas Macy's deed conveying to his son one-
fourth part of his land, etc. December 13, 1675.
Tristram Coffin's deed conveying one-fourth of his
house-lot "at Cappamet," etc., to his son, John Coffin.
May 12, 1677.
Tristram Coffin's gift of land to his grandchildren.
October 3, 1678.
Up to page 80 this book consists mainly of transfers
of land, from July 21, 1673, to June 9, 1674, After
page 80 the contents of the book are inverted and paged
from I to 47, consisting of court records from July 19,
1673, to March 27, 1705.
144 Nantucket
Of the Court proceedings the following will serve as
an example:
The sentence of the Court is that Edward Cowles shall
be soundly whipt, and to go away from the island on the
same vessall that he came in. And when he is a board the
vessall he is not to come a shore upon the penalty of being
whipt every time that he com a shore.
Peter Folger's sentence for contempt of court appears
on page lo; also the case of Quensh, an Indian, who
sued his wife for divorce, which he obtained, and the
woman was fined twenty shilHngs "in regard to his
trobell."
Thus minor charges are dealt with page after page,
many of them concerning misconduct of the Indians.
On page 26 is the appointment of John Gardner "as
true and LawfuU Aturney" to Governor Andros, dated
November 16, 1680, and John Gardner's appointment
as Magistrate, on June 26, 1680, by Governor Andros,
followed by oath to be taken on appointment.
On page 29 is Governor Andros's release of John
Gardner as to the fine and disfranchisement inflicted
upon him, and the sentence declared null and void,
dated October 10, 1680.
On page 30, an order by Governor Andros that a
Court of Sessions (separate from each other) shall be
held at Martha's Vineyard and at Nantucket, dated
October 10, 1680, as requested by John Gardner and
Matthew Mayhew.
On page 31 is John Gardner's appointment as Chief
Magistrate of Nantucket, signed by Governor Andros,
and dated November 10, 1680.
The last court entry in Volume 2 is dated March
27, 1705, on page 47.
Nantucket Records 145
Book 3 consists of land transfers from page 2 to 149,
the date of first record being May 6, 1708, the last
March 29, 1720. Many of the earlier deeds in this
book were not recorded until a number of years after
their execution; for example: one on page 10 was exe-
cuted on March 2, 1696, by Stephen Hussey, arid was
not recorded until June 14, 1700, Another executed
by Peter CofBn, September 10, 1697, was not re-
corded until June 10, 1700; and another (page 2),
executed by William Worth on May 2, 1704, was not
recorded until July 17, 1708. A deed from Wauwinet
transferring land to Paul Noose (page 4), although
executed on October 2, 1689, was not recorded until
August 9, 1708.
One deed (on page 3), purporting to conve}^ a dwel-
ling-house and land by Robert Evans, carpenter, to
Jonathan Pinkham, and dated merely "the i8th of
August," without specifying any year, has neither been
duly executed nor recorded.
Some of these deeds are written in the obscure and
perplexing autography of John Gardner, and are almost
undecipherable.
Many of the ear-marks, which were used to distin-
guish the sheep belonging to different owners are
recorded on pages 53, 54, 55, 56, 58, 61, 62, and 66,
and consisted of various devices cut in the ears of the
sheep.
On page 60 is a deed executed by the original pur-
chasers of Horse Commons from the Indians, and in
this ("in order to avoid any contention or strife which
might hereafter arise between us"), we "fully and
absolutely give up our claim to all such privileges . . .
unto the inhabitants, freeholders of Nantucket, accord-
ing to their several and respective shares, reserving to
146 Nantucket
ourselves no more than our just and respective pro-
portion in common with the rest."
This is signed by twenty-two original purchasers,
executed in 171 1, and recorded January 16, 17x2-
Many of these deeds are executed by Indians as on
pages 63, 64, 65, etc.
On inverting the book there are some records of the
Court of Common Pleas, unpaged, and beginning
October 7, 1701, evidently in the handwriting of John
Gardner, the primary records ending March 30, 1708.
To these succeed a num^ber of records of marriages,
occupying about one page and a quarter, and dated
from January 8, 1700, to August 5, 17 12, twenty mar-
riages altogether, and all performed by William Worth,
Justice of the Peace.
Beginning on October 5, 1708, are Court of Common
Pleas records, the last ending March 28 or 29, 1721.
Book IV. Land transfers are recorded from April
24, 1 72 1, to January 29, 1744.
On pages 64 and 87 are records which are written
in the Indian language, and on page 93 the first Indian
deed is recorded, being the transfer of a tract of land
in "the Plain Country" from Nickanoose and Nana-
huma to Thomas Mayhew, executed June 20, 1659,
but not recorded until March 26, 1731. It seems to
have remained in the hands of Mayhew and his family
until the Indians appealed to the General Court to
recover their lands, when the owners of Nantucket
found the old deed, and placed it on record.
The Registry of Deeds also contains the list of Nan-
tucket streets compiled by Isaac Coffin in 1799.
The following record is quoted from the Registry
as interesting, inasmuch as the locality of the "hors
Commonage" transferred is not mentioned in the deed:
Nantucket Records 147
This Bargain and sale made the 27th day of June, 1701,
Witnesseth that Moamug, an Indian of Nantucket have
bargained and solde unto Mira on hors Commonage or
pasturage on the Island of Nantucket for a valuable consid-
eration by Mira payde, the Recept wherof i do acknowledg
to my full satisfaction and Content befor the Signing and
Sealing of these presance I Moamug aforesaid do therfor
Sell, Alline, Rattifie and Confirme pasuredg or Liberty for
the keeping on hors on the Island of Nantucket unto —
Mira aforesaid, to him his heirs and Asigns for Ever to
Have and to Holde and peaceably to Injoy the Said Liberty
to him his heirs and assigns for Ever hearby binding me my
heirs and assignes for Ever to Warantise and defend said
Sale and Liberty against any person or person whatsoever
Laying Claim thereto by, from, or under me, in witnes
whear of i have put to my hand and Seal the day and year
above Written.
Signed sealed and delivered in the presence of us
„-., William Gayer Moomak LS
Witness: , „
Isaac Colman
The above Written Instrument was Acknowledged by
Moamak to be his ackt and deed on Nantucket July ye 9,
befor me
William Gayer
Justice Peace.
Recorded, August 13th. Seventeen hundred and one.
proprietors' records
A meeting of the original ten purchasers was held
at Salisbury, in 1659, when it was adopted that each
of the ten should be permitted to select a partner, thus
increasing their number to twenty : it was also
determined and concluded that no man whatsoever shall
purchase any land of any of the Indians upon the sd. yland
for his own or other private or pticular use, but whatsoever
148 Nantucket
purchase shall be made shall be for ye general accompt of
ye twenty owners or purchasers. And whatsoever pson
shall purchase any land upon any other accompt it shall be
accompted void and null, except what is done by license
from ye sd. owners or purchasers.
In pursuance of this order they were enabled to
prevent any one outside of the Proprietary from pur-
chasing land from the Indians, and "this policy was
strictly followed by the English until every foot of
land on the island had been conveyed by the red-men
to the Proprietary."' Much confusion was, however,
created later when, in 1692, Nantucket was annexed
to Massachusetts and became subject to its laws, and
the monopoly hitherto vested in the Proprietors had
to be shared with the other citizens, and when, in
addition to the freeholders, the town citizens became
voters. For a time the Proprietors and citizens some-
what indiscriminately assumed the functions of each
other, — the freeholders discharging municipal duties
and vice versa, the records of each being chronicled
in the same books. In December, 17 16, this practice
came to an end, and the meetings of freeholders and
citizens were held separately and apart, while their
respective records were kept in separate books. ^
"This book," begins the first record of the Proprie-
tors in 1 716, "is appointed for to Enter of business
and votes of proprietors' meetings in from time to
time pr. order of ye meeting."
The first meeting recorded was held at Nantucket
on "ye 13th day of 12 mo. 1716."
These records contain for the most part the arrange-
ments of house-lots, lay-outs, and divisions of land all
' H. Barnard Worth, opus cit. ' Ibid.
Nantucket Records 149
over the island, the naming of locahties, the making of
highways, the erection of mills and wharves, the ap-
portionment of pasturage, the fixation of boundaries,
and a hundred other matters cognate to Proprietary-
rights involving the welfare, division, and governance
of the island. After 1700 the title of "Proprietors of
the Common and undivided lands of the Island of Nan-
tucket" was assumed instead of "freeholders and
comonalty of the town of Sherborn."^
The records consist altogether of eight volumes, and
one Stock-book.
In Volume i, page 136, is a table of the "several
owners of the twenty-seven shares as they are mated and
connected in draughting of the same, together with
each man's several and exact interCvSt therein"; and on
pages 169, 170, and 171 of Volume i is
a Regulation of the twenty-seven shairs of Land on the
Island of Nantucket, and each man's interest Put as much
together as is Covenient could be, and when Done Laid
before a Proprietors' meeting and accepted and ordered to
be passed on the Proprietors' records as by a vote on record
ye 15 of 12 mo. 1790 will appear.
The last record in Volume i is dated November 25,
1808.
From page i to 10, inverted at end of Volume i, is a
complete list of the sheep "ear-marks" "of the Inhabi-
tants of Sherborn on Nantucket."
These records, after 1700, are very carefully kept,
and the manifold agenda of the Proprietors' meetings
are chronicled with much exactitude, while in many
instances the various allotments of land are delineated
' H. Barnard Worth, opus cit., p. 187.
150 Nantucket
with admirable accuracy, and the volumes have an
ample index.
Volume 2 is thus headed: "This Book was bought
the 12 mo:, the 13, 1808, by the Proprietors of the Island
of Nantucket to record all their doings in that they
think ought to be recorded in their records." This
volume, like Volume i, consists of lay-outs of land for
the most part, the first record being dated 19th of
December, 1808, and the last recorded on the 2d of
May, 1836.
INDIAN DEEDS
The most important deeds executed between the
settlers and the Indians in connection with the trans-
ference of the island have already been reproduced in
Chapter III.
The Indian deeds conveying individual grants of
land are numerously distributed through the Registry,
and extend from 1659 to 1774, — ^ period of 115 years.
Space will not permit further reference to these in any
detail, but, as they have all been epitomized and tabu-
lated by Mr. H. B. Worth, ^ the reader is referred to his
work for particulars. The first deed in this category
is from Nicornoose and Nanahuma to Thomas Mayhew
transferring land, and is dated June 20, 1659, and the
last is from John Jethro, ceding "a sheep's Common"
to the Proprietors, and dated in 1774.
There are also in the Registry numerous regulations
with regard to "drift whales" (which the Indians had
some undiscovered means of turning to their advantage) ;
also records of much litigation in the courts from
1673 to 1757-8, concerning the many attempts made
' Opus cit.
Nantucket Records 151
by the Indians to regain the lands they had sold and
deeded to the settlers. These, however, are fully
recorded in the work just cited, and, albeit interesting
in themselves, cannot be further referred to here for
the reason already stated.
These efforts on the part of the Indians were insti-
gated by the natives misunderstanding the English
principle of land transference notwithstanding its
perfect legitimacy, and their believing that the deeds
they had executed did not absolutely convey their
lands from them in perpetuity. The aborigines were
also, doubtless, encouraged in their action by receiving
aid and advice from disreputable Englishmen who were
capable of skillfully drawing up petitions to the court
and authorities for their own selfish interests.
PROBATE COURT RECORDS
Book 2 in the Registry of Deeds contains the earliest
existing records of Probate, from 1671 (when Richard
Gardner was elected Judge), until 1680, when John
Gardner was appointed Chief Justice; and from that
time until 1706, when John Gardner died. Earlier
records probably existed concerning Probate matters
before 1671, but if such records were made, they have
never been discovered, and were possibly lost or de-
stroyed. From 1706 the deeds have been well and
carefully recorded in the Probate Office.
After the death of John Gardner, James Coffin was
appointed Judge, and Eleazer Folger, Registrar, the
latter holding his appointment until 1 754.
During the twenty-six years elapsing between 1680
and 1706, the paucity of deeds recorded is easily observ-
able: this goes to show that there must have been
152 Nantucket
great carelessness on the part of the Registrar in failing
to record the estates administered, or else that the
records themselves are no longer existent.
The estates of the following — eight in number — are
all that have been recorded from 1 680-1 706, viz:
Nathaniel Wyer, Benjamin Austin, Tristram Coffin,
Thomas Macy, Sarah Wyer, Sarah Gardner, Joseph
Coleman, and John Walch.
There are thirty-two volumes of Deeds in the Probate
Office. A full list of all wills administered, from 1706
to 1778, will be found in Mr. H. Barnard Worth's
volume already referred to, to which the writer is under
many obligations.
The following method of electing officers in Massa-
chusetts Colony in 1643 was prescribed, and, as it is
interesting, it may be mentioned here :
The freemen shall use Indian Corn and Beanes, the Indian
Corn to manifest election, the Beanes contrary, and if any
freeman shall put in more than one Indian Corn or Beane,
he shall forfeit for every such offence Ten pounds/
An allusion to this custom is thus described by Peter
Folger, in 1676:
In the Hke uncivil manner they chose two young men
more, the said Stephen [Hussey] bringing his corn which
betoken choice in his hand, and called upon others to corn
this man and that man. (From Peter Folger's letter to
Sir Edmund Andros, in New York Col. MSS.)
Probably the first reference to a jail in the Massa-
chusetts islands is found in the following quotation
from the records of the General Court.
' Vide Dr. C. E. Banks's History of Martha's Vineyard, vol. i., p. 143.
Nantucket Records 153
It is ordered by the Court in case there be not a sufficient
prison built in Edgartown on Martha's Vineyard within
three months after the date hereof, they shall pay a fine
of Ten pounds. ^
This was passed on September 21, 1686, but was not
carried out, as no jail had been erected in March, 1699.^
' Nantucket Records, ii., 38. ^ Dr. C. E. Banks, opus cit.
CHAPTER IX
THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
When the new century dawned upon Nantucket,
the inhabitants were still suffering, directly and in-
directly, from the effects of the Revolutionary War, — -
effects so disastrous as to render recovery inevitably
slow and uncertain. Many of them became so dis-
couraged that they left the island altogether; but, amid
doubts and difficulties, alternating waves of prosperity
and adversity, the majority "with a heart for any fate,"
worked on, hoped on, doing their best, and oft amid
circumstances which were neither hope-inspiring nor
encouraging.
At this time, the population of the island was be-
tween five and six thousand (5617), and, curiously
enough, was gradually increasing.
The earlier years of 1800 were not marked by any
events of more than ordinary interest, save the pursuit
of some large whales on the north side of the island,
two of which were secured, and one of which produced
thirty-one barrels.
After much previous consideration, the islanders,
who for reasons which are obvious, had long been
impressed with the necessity of having the sand-bar
(extending from Muskeget Island to opposite Coskata
154
The Nineteenth Century 155
Pond) removed from the mouth of the harbor, resolved
to petition Congress for its removal, and also for the
deepening of the channel. Surveyors had prepared
their plans, and duly reported their proposals, but, in
the end, the entire matter was rejected by Congress,
and thus abandoned for many years.
With brightening prospects, the hopes of the Nan-
tucketers were soon again in the ascendant. The ships
were having successful voyages, and the demand for oil
and sperm candles, at prices constituting good profits,
had materially increased, keeping the whole machinery
of the industry in active and remunerative operation.
In 1804, the Paci;fic Bank and two insurance com-
panies were established and in 1805, the present House
of Correction was built at Quaise, was later removed
to the town, and is now standing beside the jail. Up
to 1807, the island was prospering; business w^as good
and increasing; the outlook was hopeful; many new
buildings were erected, and everybody, lulled in ap-
parent security, was more than satisfied when, on June
22, 1807, a British war-vessel fired upon the Chesapeake,
belonging to the United vStates. The possible results
of this act created consternation in the minds of the
islanders, and fears for the worst almost paralyzed the
commercial activities of the island. Ships were with-
held from sea,— in many instances hauled up and
stripped; day-laborers could find no employment,
mariners returned home in enforced idleness, and, only
too generally, once more destitution threatened.
Thus matters proceeded from bad to worse, when,
as Macy says: "Every new omen of war seemed to
threaten a renewal of similar sufferings and distress."
Many people sold their residences, and removed else-
where to more desirable localities. The residents
156 Nantucket
petitioned Congress, enumerating their grievances and
praying that a declaration of war might be averted.
On June 24, 18 12, the American Government de-
clared war against Great Britain.
It is not the purpose of the writer, nor is it feasible,
to chronicle in detail either the privations and sufferings
of the islanders during this terrible war, or the spirited
efforts they made to mitigate its evils by fervent appeals
to both the American and the British authorities.
Their ships at sea, which represented their most valu-
able possessions, were in imminent danger, all business
was at a standstill, many of the families were reduced
almost to beggary and starvation, and the condition
of the involuntarily unemployed was, indeed, desperate.
Nor is it possible to describe the feelings of joy and
gratitude with which the Nantucketers greeted the
news of peace being duly ratified on February 28, 181 5. ^
In addition to the direful privations to which the
islanders were subjected during the reign of terror
just happily ended, they lost many of their vessels.
When the war broke out, they had 43 ships, 47 sloops,
7 brigs, 19 schooners, — 116 vessels all told, and of this
number only 23 remained, the others having been cap-
tured, condemned, or lost.
One incident occurred during this war, on October
10, 1814, which cannot be passed over, and of which
the Nantucketers were naturally proud, although the
loss of life involved was very considerable, viz: the
so-called " Maddequecham Fight," off Tom Nevers's
Head, Nantucket, between boats from the British
frigate Endymion and an American privateer. Prince
of Neufchatel, in which the Endymion s men were re-
pulsed with loss of 121 in killed and prisoners, and the
» A full account of this eventful period will be found in Macy's History.
The Nineteenth Century 157
English merchantman Douglas was captured and
beached after the fight. The fact that a Nantucket
pilot (Kilburn) was engaged aboard of the Prince of
Neufchatel was doubly gratifying to the islanders, who
even yet recount the tale with much satisfaction.
Relieved from the horrors of what had virtually been
a blockade of the island, it can easily be imagined how
readily the emancipated people set about repairing
their misfortunes as far as possible; but although the
war was ended, when they considered the dreadful
ordeal through which they must pass before they could
recover what they had lost, it cannot be a source of
wonder that they felt discoiiraged and despairing.
In the first flush of peace their hearts were rejoiced,
but when the excitement was over, and neither money
nor work could be had, the poorer islanders were driven
almost to desperation to obtain the necessaries of life.
A small number of ships had been sent to sea, but until
these returned, the islanders could only exercise pa-
tience, do their best, and trust in Providence.
The island experienced a phenomenal fall of tem-
perature on February i, 18 15, such as had never been
known either before or since, viz : 1 1 degrees below zero!
On the 5th of May, 18 16, The Nantucket Gazette, the
first newspaper published on the island, was issued by
Tannatt and Tupper. It failed to win support, and
did not survive beyond the first year.
In November of the same year, the lighthouse on
Great Point, a wooden structure erected in 1784, was
destroyed by fire, and it was replaced, under the di-
rection of the government, by a new stone building.
This light is seventy feet above the sea-level, and can
be seen at a distance of fourteen nautical miles.
Erelong the whaling ships began to arrive after
158 Nantucket
successful voyages, and their coming revived the still
drooping spirits of all classes ; for, owing to many causes,
and notwithstanding the fact that two years had
elapsed since the war, the islanders generally, and
especially the laborers, were still suffering from reaction-
ary distress from which time alone could deliver them.
However, fortune smiled again when the ships came
home, for new manufactures were started, ship-owners
increased their fleets, and once again, it was hoped,
I J the island would soon resume its wonted activities,
/?«] and constant employment be secured for all.
Inspired with new life themselves, the islanders soon
emerged from the slough of despair into which they
had been cast ; all classes of the community were work-
ing together for the good of all; new markets were
opening, food was no longer scarce, prices had fallen
materially, and, notwithstanding all the terrible ex-
periences of the past, the population had increased to
over 7000 by 1 8^Q^ while the whaling fleet had also
increased to" over seventy-two vessels, and the coasters
to over eighty.
In 1 82 1 , trees were first planted in the town — a species
of two-thorn acacia, known as locust-trees.
Between 1810 and 1840, ship-building was instituted
on the island, but not to a large extent. The vessels
built were, for the most part, comparatively small,
averaging about thirty or forty tons. The islanders,
however, succeeded in building one beautiful ship, the
Joseph Starbuck, which made one successful voyage,
but was, unfortunately, totally wrecked on Nantucket
bar on November 27, 1842, when proceeding on a
second. ^
Still later a large schooner was built. So far as the
' Vide Chapter XVI.
The Nineteenth Century 159
names of these ships are known, the first (built at
Brant Point in 1810) was called the Rose, the second,
in 1832, the Charles Carroll, and the Nantucket and the
Lexington, in 1838. But, alas, this industry shared
the same fate as the others which preceded and suc-
ceeded it. In 1823, the tonnage engaged in Nantucket
whaling was at its height, that of New Bedford exceed-
ing it subsequently.
About 1824, the Sconset milestones were set by Peter
F. Ewer; they have been removed twice since then,
once over to the middle Sconset road which runs by
Hensdale, and finally to the road latest laid out. At
present, they are all accurately located, with the excep-
tion of the 7th and 7^2 stones.
In 1835, Daniel Webster appeared professionally on
the island, and he was so astonished at its appearance
and importance that he called it "The unknown city
in the ocean!"
Education. The early settlers were somewhat tardy
in recognizing the necessity of educational development
among their children beyond such domestic instruction
as they could obtain at home, and probably from a
few private elementary schools. In 17 16, they ap-
pointed Eleazer Folger as their first schoolmaster.^
Mr. Timothy White, in the first instance a missionary
(since 1725) among the Indians, was, in 1732, appointed
minister to the local church. It is now believed that
a new meeting-house was built about the time of, or
shortly before, Mr. White's appointment. Mr. White
conducted a school during the time he remained in the
district. However, it was not until 1827 that the
corporate authorities founded two large public schools
on the monitorial plan, after the removal of the town
I Vide Chapter V.
i6o Nantucket
to Nantucket. Previous to this period, the Academy
had, in 1800, been erected on Academy Hill, and there
had been a number of private schools, in addition to
an appropriation officially set aside for the benefit of
the poorer classes of children.
In 1835, there were two large grammar-schools, and
four primary schools with an attendance of about three
hundred, in addition to private schools ; but within half
a century there were twelve flourishing public schools on
the island, directed by thirty teachers, and aggregating
twelve hundred pupils. The High-School was insti-
tuted in 1838, but the present schoolhouse was not
erected until 1854.
The South Grammar School (now partially used as
a Town-Hall and Courthouse), was on Orange Street,
and the West School on Upper Main Street, beyond
Gardner Street. These two schools were erected in
1827.
Schools were established at Tuckemuck, Madeket,
Sconset, and Polpis.
In addition to these the famous Coffin School was
founded in 1827, by Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, Bart,
(a lineal descendant of Tristram Coffin in the fifth
generation). This Lancastrian School was originally
founded for the descendants of Tristram Coffin, but
owing to a variety of causes it was closed in 1898.
The school building, in the first instance, was placed
on the east side of Fair Street, nearly opposite Farmer
Street. In 1903, the school was reopened as a manual
training school, and it is now in a flourishing condition
and doing excellent work in this direction. The
present building was erected in 1852.
The schools of Nantucket, as at present carried on,
are models of excellence in every department, and, so
The Nineteenth Century i6i
far as administration and educational results are con-
cerned, will not suffer in comparison with any other
schools in the United States. The futiire of the country
is safe amid such fostering evolutional conditions and
activities.
In 1830, Nantucket was described as "the third
commercial town in the Commonwealth, viz: Boston,
Salem, Nantucket." Would that she could have re-
tained that position!
The Poor Farms. There is no accessible record as
to the date of erection of the building, still standing
at Quaise, on the east side of Bellows Pond — which
was utilized as the first Poor Farm. As far as can be
ascertained, it was originally the homestead of a branch
of the Coffin family, and was built probably about
the middle of the i8th centtuy or later. It is at least
known that it was the country home of Mark Coffin,
who was born October 16, 1768, married, first Judith
Hussey, and secondly, Sarah Olney, of Providence, R. I.
He died October 2, 1839, aged seventy-one years. He
was the son of Shubael Coffin, w^ho was born in 1739,
and died in 1817.'
Mark Coffin, or, as he was familiarly known, '' Cousin
Mark," had a sad and curious history. He is reputed
to have been wealthy, well-educated, and the author
of several books. Misfortune gradually assailed him
during the time he occupied the Quaise homestead as
his summer home, after leaving which the house became
the first Poor Farm. He became a schoolmaster after
the loss of his wealth, and had his school on the second
floor of the house on Liberty Street, now occupied by
' Mark Coffin was the son of Shubael, who was the son of Henry,
who was the son of Jonathan, who was the son of James, who was the
son of Tristram and Dionis. — W. B. Starbuck Papers.
i62 Nantucket
Mr. Voorneveld, the florist. From this he migrated
to Federal Street, where he kept a book and gen-
eral store, on the site afterwards occupied by the
Phoenix Bank, near the Roman Catholic Church.
The bank was subsequently destroyed in the great
fire of 1846.
Tradition asserts that, toward the end of his
life, Mark Coffin became an inmate of the Poor Farm
which had once been his summer home. He died
on October 2, 1839, leaving a daughter Mary, who
became a school-teacher, and died on August 13,
1844.^
In April, 1822, the town bought Quaise Farm, for
which they paid $6700. They also erected a new Poor
Farm, consisting of four buildings, at a cost of $1910,
to which additions, etc., were afterwards made (costing
$1679.96), in 1825. In 1823, the poor were removed to
the new asylum.
In 1826, the Committee reported that
the buildings are in fine condition, and there is sufficient
accommodation for a very large increase in the number
of tenants. They extend from east to west more than one
hundred feet, two stories high, and about forty feet wide,
with a cookery and ample accommodation for colored
people in the rear.^
This building was situated on a knoll to the east side
of Bellows Pond, and was totally destroyed by fire
on the night of February 21, 1844, when ten of the
inmates were burned to death. The following are the
names and ages of those who perished:
' W. C. Folger Papers, and Quaker Records.
' Report of the Committee on Town Accounts, 1826.
The Nineteenth Century 163
Paul Jenkins, 66 Sophia Beebe, 57
Thomas Hull, 67 Lydia Bowen, 33
Jonathan Cathcart, 79 Phebe Jones, 80
WilHam Holmes, 41 Abial Davis, 87
William Hutchinson, no age Welthy Davis, 53
During the ensuing year it was rebuilt on the same
site, but in 1854 it was removed, in sections, to Orange
Street, Nantucket. Here it still stands, and is now
known as "Our Island Home," — this beautiful name
having been bestowed upon it by the overseers of the
poor on July 4, 1905. Its removal and re-erection cost
$7500.
On May loth, 1836, a great fire occurred in lower
Main Street.
On the original site of "Miriam Coffin's" famous
house, situated at Quaise, to the northwest of Bellows
Pond, the late Mr. W. B. Starbuck, in 1851, erected
his dwelling-house, which is still standing.
The Chiirches. Congregational. The original
Congregational Church has already been discussed in
Chapter V.
The present orthodox Congregational Church in
Nantucket, on Beacon Hill, was built in 1834, and
superseded the little church, now known as "the old
North Vestry," which was moved to the rear after the
new church was built.
After serving as the Congregational Church for
nearly seventy years, it is now used as a Vestry and
Sunday School,
Methodist Episcopal. Methodism was introduced
on the island in 1799. The public services were, at
first, held in the Town Hall.
The First Chiu"ch was situated at the southwest
1 64 Nantucket
corner of Fair and Lyon Streets, and was dedicated on
New Year's Day, 1800. This building was known
as the Teazer meeting-house from "the flag of the
sloop Teazer, which was raised over the church during
an early period of its occupancy," The chapel, sub-
sequently erected on Centre Street in 1823, is said
to accommodate seven or eight hundred people. The
organ in this Church was formerly used at the "Old
South" Church in Boston.
Unitarian, or Second Congregational, Church on
Orange Street. This was instituted and incorporated
in 1 8 10. This large and commodious church is distin-
guished by the possession of a tower which, for the
most part of a century, has enshrined that most valued
of public benefits — the town clock. The first clock,
made in Nantucket in 1823, was, in May, 1881, super-
seded by a new one, a gift to the town by a respected
and generous townsman, Mr. W. H. Starbuck. In this
tower, also, is a Portuguese bell which was cast in
Lisbon in 18 10, brought over to this country in 18 12,
and placed in the belfry, in 181 5, at a cost of $500.
It is a remarkably sweet-toned bell, and bears the
following inscription, translated from the Portuguese :
To the good Jesus of the mountain the devotees of Lisbon
direct their prayers, offering Him one complete set of six
bells, to call the people and adore Him in His sanctuary.
lose Domingos da Costa has done it, in Lisbon, in the
year 18 10.
A splendid view of the island and the ocean beyond
can be obtained from this gilded tower, from which,
also, "in the good old days of yore," a watch was kept
for the return of whaling ships.
For many years the late Town Crier, William D.
The Nineteenth Century 165
Clark, signalled, from this tower, the approach of the
Nantucket steamboat, as soon as she was discernible
through a powerful telescope, the signal being several
long toots on his horn from the windows towards each
point of the compass. This great convenience was
entirely a voluntary and unpaid service on the crier's
part, and has been greatly missed by many since it was
discontinued. On hearing the horn, old Nantucketers
used to say: "There's Clark — the boat's in sight."
On very windy or stormy days, and in the early morning
after a gale during the night, Clark was always on the
watch for wrecks, warning the townspeople of vessels
in distress, that help might be despatched. Probably
many a poor sailor owed his life to this vigilance of the
crier.
In the South tower, watch was kept also for fires at
night, and the direction of fires was signalled by lan-
terns. These watchmen were paid by the town, and
the custom was continued to within a few years, when
the present system of electric fire-alarms was installed.
The Episcopal Church owes its establishment in
Nantucket to the efforts of the Rev. Moses Marcus,
who, in 1837, visited the island as a diocesan missionary
from New York. A church was organized in 1838, and
Mr. Marcus was appointed the first Rector. The new
church, known as Trinity, was built on the site of the
Friends' meeting-house in Broad Street. The meeting-
house was moved to the rear of the lot, and remodeled
into a chapel and Sunday-school room, while the
church itself was erected on the front of the lot, being
consecrated September 18, 1839. It has been said,
that Trinity Church was architecturally beautiful, and
that the turreted tower contained a latticed window
through which "the wind sighed forth, as an .^olian
i66 Nantucket
harp, strains of fitful melody, 'most musical, most
melancholy.' "
The church was totally destroyed by fire during the
great conflagration of 1846. After this catastrophe,
the Trinity Society was dissolved and reorganized as
St. Paul's Church.
For some time afterwards the Episcopalians met for
worship in the North Vestry, and removed in 1848 to
Harmony Hall, on the site of which St. Mary's Roman
Catholic Church was subsequently built. In 1849,
they erected on Fair Street another church, which
was opened for service in 1850.
In 1902, a splendid stone-church was erected and
presented to the parish by Miss C. L. W. French,
of Boston, in memory of her father, and it stands
on the site of the former less pretentious building,
having been consecrated on St. Barnabas Day, June
nth.
The First Baptist Church on Summer Street, was
organized in 1839, but the meeting-house was not
erected until 1840.
The Roman Catholic Church has been represented
in Nantucket since 1849, but no priest was in residence
and no regular place of worship instituted until about
1858. In that year the Rev. Father Hennis secured
possession of Harmony Hall in Federal Street, and it
was duly consecrated as St. Mary's Church. Previous
to this time the church had been under the spiritual
guidance of New Bedford priests.
In 1897, on the old site, enlarged by the purchase of
an adjacent lot, a new church was erected under the
incumbency of Father C. McSweeney, who began his
ministrations in 1883.
The Rev. Father McGee was appointed resident
The Nineteenth Century 167
priest in 1903. The Rev. Father Kelly is now in
residence, 191 2.
There was at one time a Reformed Methodist
Episcopal Church, an offshoot from the First Metho-
dist Episcopal Church ; but there are no records.
The York Street Colored Baptist Society was
formed in 1831, and occupied the York Street meeting-
house for some years, while the society existed.
The Pleasant Street Baptist Society and Church
was organized by and for colored people in 1847, when
the Rev. James E. Crawford (colored) — the barber-
minister — was appointed pastor, a position which he
sustained very acceptably and efficiently for forty-one
years, preaching every Sunday evening to large congre-
gations. He died in 1888.
The Universalists had a church where the Athe-
naeum now stands, but it was destroyed by fire in 1846.
The present Athen^um building was erected on the
site in 1847.
The First Universalist Church was incorporated
on January 20, 1827, but it was in existence for less
than ten years.
The African Methodist Episcopal Church was
instituted in 1835, near corner of Pleasant and York
Streets.
A People's Baptist Church was organized in 1897.
It was the result of a secession from the First Baptist
Church. Meetings were held in the Friends' meeting-
house on Centre Street, now a part of the "Roberts
House."
The Nantucket Athen^um, when incorporated
in 1834, was known as the Athenaeum, Library, and
Museum, and was the result of a coalition between
two previously existing societies, one, the "Me-
i68 Nantucket
chanics' Association," organized in 1820, and the
other, the "Columbian Library Association," estab-
lished in 1823. These two societies had become
amalgamated, under the title of the "United Library
Association," in 1827, but when some of the promi-
nent members of the society offered a valuable cen-
tral site for the erection of a large and suitable
building for the Association, the matter was taken
up with much spirit and subscriptions were insti-
tuted. These soon exceeded the amount required
to carry out the wishes of the land-donors, and the
association, with the donors' permission, seciired the
house and land then recently vacated by the Univer-
salist Society. Having remodeled the house to suit
their purposes, the "Nantucket Athenaeum, Library,
and Museum" was inaugurated, under the most
auspicious circumstances. Unfortunately the premises
with their valuable contents were totally destroyed by
the terrible fire of July 13, 1846.
The official report of the trustees for the following
year particularizes the irreparable losses sustained,
which included 3200 volumes of books, many invalu-
able records and documents pertaining to the early
history of the island, and also valuable collections
housed in the museum, consisting of shells, minerals,
birds, insects, coins, and foreign objects of interest,
and antiquities.
Notwithstanding the inexpressible havoc wrought
throughout the town by this tremendous conflagration
and the disastrous effects upon the inhabitants, they, with
much commendable enterprise, determined to erect a new
building, and so prompt and effective was their activity
that the imposing structure now existing was finished
and ready for occupation on February i, 1847.
The Nineteenth Century 169
Through the genial influence of Mr. William Mitchell,
the then President, and some of his generous friends, the
new library opened with 1600 volumes, a substantial
basis on which to build up the splendid collection of
books which now constitute the Athenaeum Library,
amounting to over 20,000 volumes.
The museum was subsequently taken over by the
Historical Society (which is referred to elsewhere^),
thus leaving more room at the Athenaeum for the ac-
cumulation of literary treasures.
Main Street, or "the Square," as it was then called,
from the Bank to Rotch's market, was first paved
with cobble-stones about seventy -five years ago (1837?).
Above the Bank and extending up to the Starbuck
houses, the street was first paved about sixty years ago
(1852?).^ The street was repaved in 1889.
In the years 1836-37 a financial panic occurred
which not only caused disaster among Nantucket
merchants, but involved the island and its inhabitants
in a web of difficulties and adversities from which they
were unable to extricate themselves without severe
and prolonged suffering. The situation was intensified
by the suspension of specie payment by the banks,
and the baneful and far-reaching results of this mis-
fortune can better be imagined than described.
The two Cliff beacons were erected in 1838, and
were first lighted during November of that year; they
were refitted in 1856. At Monomoy, in range with
Brant Point, there was also a beacon, which was dis-
continued about twenty years ago, and within the last
six or seven years the government paid a man a nominal
salary to look after it.
' Vide Chapter X.
' David Folger, as reported to John C. Gardner.
170 Nantucket
During 1842, a terrific storm burst over the island,
washing away part of Sconset bank and several houses.
The year 1842 was the banner year of the Nantucket
whaling industry. The fleet had then reached its
climax, comprising 86 ships and barks, 2 brigs, and 2
schooners, with a capacity of 36,000 tons, and the
island contained a population verging upon 10,000
inhabitants. But it is from this year, also, that its
decline must be dated, for a series of grave and una-
voidable misfortunes soon afterwards succeeded one
another and these gradually dispelled all hopes as to
the restoration of the industry. A few of these disasters
must be briefly referred to here.
For many years Nantucket had been exceptionally
free from the ravages of fire, and from its settlement,
in 1661, until 1832, the aggregate losses from this cause
were computed to amoimt to only $36,000, for the most
part incurred by the destruction of isolated houses and
places of business. In 1838, however, a fire occurred
which was described as ' ' the most extensive and disas-
trous ever experienced in the community " up to that date,
and the loss then entailed was estimated at $200,000.
It was not, however, until 1846 that the terrible
catastrophe distinguished as the "Great Fire" broke
out on a sultry July night, and, since the town was
principally built of wood, nearly the entire business
section of the town was utterly consumed in the de-
vastating virulence of the flames. Over three hundred
buildings, extending over thirty-three acres, were
burned, and property estimated at nearly $1,000,000
was completely destroyed. After the fire one could
stand on the steps of the Pacific Bank and see the
ships anchored back of the bar, between the chimneys
left standing.
The Nineteenth Century 171
The progress of the fire was eventually arrested by
four brick houses, viz: one at the corner of Main and
Orange Streets, the Pacific Bank, the Ocean House,
and Aaron Mitchell's house on North Water Street.
This direful calamity contributed largely to the
decline of the Nantucket whale fisheries, already
waning.
Although, at first, the inhabitants were almost para-
lyzed by the results of this awe-inspiring holocaust,
they, nevertheless, manifested the marvelous reserve
force which has ever characterized them, by having
most of the business thoroughfares rebuilt, reopened,
and relighted nine months from the date of the fire, viz :
on March 24, 1847, when they, very rationally, made a
festival of the occasion.
During the year 1847 also, Norwegian pine-trees
were first planted on the island, and more pine-groves
were added, in 1852-53, by Josiah Sttugiss.
As early as 1848, Nantucket boasted of two excellent
hotels, the Ocean House in town, and the Atlantic
House in Sconset.
On February 12, 1849, an order was made by the
Selectmen that the bells be rung at 7 a.m., 12 noon, and
9 P.M., the custom continuing to this day.
The general decline of Nantucket, however, which
appeared to have set in when its prosperity was at its
zenith, was further hastened by circimistances which
threatened to depopulate the island altogether, during
1849, when the people became crazed with the "Cali-
fornian fever," which had spread to their shores from
the mainland, and when every islander was seized with
a violent desire to seek his fortune anew in the promise-
land of El Dorado. Fourteen vessels, all owned and
officered by Nantucketers, sailed for San Francisco
172 Nantucket
during this year, bearing a freight of passengers in
addition to stores of a manifold and various character.
After their arrival, some of the gold-seekers remained
and made their fortune; some never came back, and
still others returned poorer, sadder, and wiser men.
The year 1849 had, on the whole, been a m.ost dis-
tressful one for Nantucketers, and before it had ended
commercial activities were weak and languishing.
In 1850, the prospect seemed brightening, and final
spasmodic efforts were made to reanimate the moribund
whale-fishery. The ship-owners succeeded in refitting
fourteen vessels, but such difficulties arose in obtaining
officers and men for the ships that it became impossible
to carry out the undertaking with anything like the
desired success. In 1852, 1853, 1854, 1855, and 1856,
similar efforts were made, but, on the whole, with
unremunerative results.
In 1851-52, Main Street was planted with elm-trees
by Charles G, and Henry Coffin, and Centre Street
was planted with English maples by N. A. Sprague.
The pines at Miacomet were planted by Henry Coffin
in 1866-67. The willows on Centre Street are said
to have grown from slips taken from Napoleon's grave
at St. Helena.
In addition to the causes already indicated as tend-
ing to depreciate the whaling industry, the greater
expenditure involved in the fitting out of vessels in
consequence of the then prevailing high prices ren-
dered the business less remunerative than it had been;
whales were decreasing in the high seas, the consump-
tion of whale-oil was lessening, the prices were declining,
and petroleum was fast replacing sperm-oil in general
use. All these factors militated against any further
profitable sea-whaling, and in Nantucket, as well as
The Nineteenth Century 173
elsewhere, the industry was soon among the things
that had been.
In 1850, the population of Nantucket amounted to
8779, a decrease of nearly 1000 since 1840.
In 1852, efforts were made for an extension of the
Cape Cod Railway to Hyannis as likely to establish
a readier communication between the island and the
mainland. The Legislature was petitioned to permit
the town to subscribe for $50,000 worth of stock, and
accordingly the town purchased stock. The desired
communication was duly opened up by Captain Brown,
and the steamer Massachusetts on October 9, 1854. It
may be mentioned that this service was suspended in
1872, and a more practicable route to the mainland
established between the island and Woods Hole.
The West schoolhouse was destroyed by fire on
July 8, 1852.
The first installation of gas works and light was
carried out during 1854, and the Asylum for the Poor
and the House of Correction were removed to Nan-
tucket during this year.
In September, 1855, the steamer Islafid Home, which
was specially built to traverse the Sound, arrived at
Nantucket, and became very popular, as she was an
excellent sea-boat, and many pleasant memories are
still associated with her.
In 1856, the present lighthouse at Brant Point was
erected, and the Nantucket Agricultural Societ}^ was
established.
In 1857, yet another panic prevailed, and with dire-
ful results throughout the country. Nantucket was
not so much affected by it as she was by that of 1837;
inasmuch as her commerce was already reduced to
almost a minimum; but it succeeded in depleting her
174 Nantucket
population still ftirther, and by i860 her inhabitants
were reduced to 6094, a decrease of 2685 diiring the
previous ten years.
In this year, also, attempts were made to connect
the island with the mainland by a submarine cable,
but the service was not successfully installed, and it
was ultimately abandoned, after many futile endeavors
to make it effective, in 1861,
General commercial depression prevailed in Nantuc-
ket during the three following years, notwithstanding
many vigorous efforts on the part of the townsmen to
obviate it. Many of them had given up hope of im-
provement, many left the island to seek better fortune
elsewhere, but some still persisted in believing there
was yet a great future in store for her.
The West schoolhouse was rebuilt and used as such
for about twenty years.
The making of shoes was subsequently instituted
in it, but with varying success until August 3, 1873,
when the factory was destroyed by fire, with a loss of
$18,000, and the business was destroyed with it.
The Civil War broke out in the spring of 1861, and
the distinguished position which Nantucket achieved
for herself during its continuance is minutely recorded
in the archives of the State. The history of this san-
guinary but necessary warfare is better known in
Nantucket than in most places, for so many of her
patriotic sons have survived the terrible conflict, even
though maimed and scarred by honor's wounds, that
there are few of the islanders who have not heard their
narration of heroic deeds and the thrilling episodes
of death and victory.
Here, unfortunately, only a few of the main facts
can be briefly referred to. When the war began, and
The Nineteenth Century 175
the Presidential call was made for men, every Nan-
tucketer's heart thrilled with patriotic fire, and every
man who responded to the call was a native-born
islander, swayed alone by courage and patriotism.
The island contributed two hundred and thirteen
men to the army, and one hundred and twenty -six to
the navy, being fifty-six above its quota, — thus earning
the proud distinction of " Banner- town " of the Com-
monwealth of Massachusetts. Of those who joined
the services seventy -four met a soldier's death!
Where every man distinguished himself it may seem
invidious to single out any one for special mention, but
there is not a Nantucket soldier who will not admit
that General George Nelson Macy well deserved all
the honors he attained. The following record appears
in the Genealogy of the Macy Family.
From Ball's Bluff to Appomattox Court-House he
marched and fought. He served through the Peninsular
campaign of McClellan; through the dangers of the first
and second attacks at Fredericksburg; lost a hand at
Gettysburg ; was wounded in the Wilderness, and again on
the James. Starting as a Lieutenant, he won his way by
gallantry and efficiency to be Major-General by brevet
and Provost Marshal-General of the Army.
Nantucket may well be proud of such a record as
this ! Those who nobly did their duty to their country
and still siu-vive must be proud to mingle with their
thanks of gratitude their tears of sympathy for the
heroic dead — their brothers in arms — whose names are
inscribed upon the enduring monument which com-
memorates them.
The total amount of money raised and expended by
Nantucket for State aid to soldiers' families during the
176 Nantucket
war was $27,492.20. The ladies of the island realized,
by a Soldiers' Fair, $2038.12, which was almost equally-
divided between the Sanitary Commission and the
soldiers and their families; and the Ladies' Soldier
Relief Society raised $2579.16 during the war for sol-
diers and their families. It is the duty of men to fight,
but in war, as in peace, it is the angelic prerogative of
womanhood to minister relief to all who need it.
In 1865, the population of the island had further
decreased to 4830.
During August of this year the High-School Alumni
Association held its first meeting, the late Rev. Dr.
Ferdinand C. Ewer giving the oration. The Governor
was present and the celebration was continued for
three days. In 1866, the second meeting took place,
and a third in 1869, after which, for some reason, the
meetings were discontinued. Such reunions of old
schoolfellows are often among the sweetest joys of life,
when old times and old experiences can be revived and
compared with the present, and the friendships of
youth are renewed, and new friendships formed even
in old age. The happiest days of life are oftenest
found among school-days, and the sweetest memories
of school-days often brighten and sweeten old age.
Such reunions should be encouraged.
Diu-ing the next two years, 1865-66, ineffective efforts
were made once more to revive the whaling business, but,
although some ships were purchased and fitted, the
attempts were abortive and had to be given up.
In 1867, during June the Children's Aid Society was
instituted. In 1869, the last whaling ship — The Oak —
sailed for the Pacific on November 15th, but she never re-
turned, as she was sold at Panama during the same year.
In 1870, the condition of the island was reversed
The Nineteenth Century 177
from what it had been in 1842. Then her famous
industry was at its chmax, and then also her dechne
set in. In 1870, she has reached the nadir of her mis-
fortunes, but an alluring bow of promise is dawning
over her which re-awakens Hope from her slumber, and
the prayers of those who had never lost faith in her
future seem about to be answered at last.
Not a ship remains to the island; scarcely a sound is
heard where erstwhile the busy hum of a mighty in-
dustry echoed and re-echoed among her glacial hills:
all is silent save the lapping of the waves upon her
sandy shores.
According to the Census of 1870, the following stand-
ard names of Nantucketers were thus recorded among
a population of 4120: Coffin 185, Folger 138, Swain
and Gardner 112 each, Chase 83, Hussey 76, Macy 76,
Ray 67, Fisher 64, Coleman 61, Dunham 53, Starbuck
50, Brown 45, Chadwick 41, Barnard 38, Clark 38,
Gibbs 36, Cathcart 35, Winslow 34, Smith 32, Bunker
30, Paddack 30.
As far back as 1865, Mark Salom of Boston had
advocated placing the island in a proper light before
the country as a health resort. The interests of the
people had, however, been identified so long with sea-
faring and whale-fishing that, at first, and for a number
of years afterwards, the new idea did not commend
itself as of much practical importance, and it was
considered as Utopian.
In the meanwhile the regular communication with
the mainland was attracting an increasing number of
visitors to the island-shores, year after year, who not
only spent money freely among the islanders, but
served to advertise the many attractions of the island
itself. At length, about 1870, some of the more far-
178 Nantucket
seeing inhabitants awoke to the imperative necessity
of developing the island on new principles in accord-
ance with the requirements of a progressive age, and
with a view to exploiting its many natural beauties
and hygienic advantages.
In 1872, a new steamboat service was inaugurated
between the island and Woods Hole, and with its
improved accommodation it soon became popular with
tourists, and the traffic increased rapidly.
Tending further to foster and develop this desirable
enterprise, a few prominent citizens instituted an
active and vigorous campaign with a slogan of "Two
boats a day," by which they sought to establish a
service of two boats daily between the mainland and
the island. This was at length accomplished by the
united efforts of Joseph S. Barney, the Rev. Ferdinand
C. Ewer, Alexander Starbuck, and William B. Drake,
powerfully re-enforced by active correspondence and
editorial comment in the Inquirer and Mirror, which
eventually convinced the public of its absolute neces-
sity, in order to promote the best interests of the island.
There can be little doubt that the realization of this
enterprise secured, in no small degree, the subsequent
recognition of Nantucket as, perhaps, the most desira-
ble health resort on the Atlantic Coast.
As usual the proposition met with considerable
opposition, in accordance with the instinctive conserva-
tism of the islanders, and their determined obstinacy
with regard to innovations of any kind; and, as a matter
of fact, "two boats a day" was not practically realized
until June 6, 1874, although the press and many of
the most important and most influential Nantucketers
had been contending for its accomplishment during
the preceding years.
CHAPTER X
NINETEENTH CENTURY (Continued)^
A NEW era of prosperity was inaugurated by the
regular installation of the improved steamboat service
to and from the island : the consequent influx of visitors
increased rapidly during the summer months, and the
islanders, however disinclined at first to provide for
them, soon foimd that the coming of the "strangers"
was a source of considerable profit to them.selves. In
the meanwhile the town authorities were fully alive
to the new duties devolving upon them in the requisite
development of the island's natural charms, and in
the establishment of such measures as were calculated
to secxire and improve its hygienic conditions and
advantages. They had to convert an obsolete fishing-
port into a sanitary and attractive summer resort;
but Nature had already done so much for the island
that cooperative zeal and persistent energy were all
that were required to merit and ensure success.
Many of the islanders, however, fought as long as
possible against the innovations proposed from time to
' The facts recorded in this chapter are so numerous that it has been
found impossible, for the most part, to weave them into a continuous
historical narrative. It has, therefore, been deemed best to transcribe
them in chronological order.
179
i8o Nantucket
time, but in most cases they were forced by the yearly
increasing influx of visitors to provide accommodation
and entertainment for them.
It has already been stated that the disposition of
Nantucketers has always been first to oppose strongly
any innovations, hovv'ever calculated to benefit the
community, and then to relent and regret, while gladly
acknowledging the beneficence of the schemes which
they had done their utmost to frustrate.
Now that many of the innovations have been adopted,
developed, and are in good working order, who would
say that their institution was not a boon and a blessing?
Who would dare to offer opposition now? But it was
ever thus: primitive minds and ideas have always
combated the march of civilization until overcome by
the progressive factors of education and experience.
The truth of this assertion will be apparent during the
course of this chapter.
But to return. Hotels and summer cottages were built
and the town took on new lite. As usual the brunt
of the hard work fell upon the women of the island,
who were ever distinguished not only for their industry
and prevision, but for their preeminent biisiness quali-
fications. Since the ruination of the whaling industry
dtiring the forties, the men, who were then in their prime
and inured to every hardship, had become, in perhaps
the majority of cases, aged and incapacitated, and were
no longer eager to enter into a new mode of life for which
they were utterly unfitted. Too, the stalwart young
men of the island had departed in droves to seek their
fortune elsewhere. But the women, ever ready for
emergencies, had to fit out their homes and cater for
the visitors who were coming in increasing hosts every
summer to their shores. Who can even enumerate the
The Nineteenth Century i8i
new duties which this peaceful revolution had imposed
upon them, or would have the temerity to assert that
they, in any way, failed in their faithful discharge?
During the eighth decade of the century, moreover,
there was kindled in the community a spirit which
takes care of its public buildings, its churches, its insti-
tutions of learning, and which encouraged the founding
of educational organizations, establishments of thrift,
and schools for the arts, and this spirit manifested itself
throughout the island, and with considerable effect.
1870. From 1870, the summer visitors annually
increased and the islanders were kept busily engaged
in making preparations for their comfort and in pro-
viding for their accommodation.
It is almost impossible to do more than record the
general progress, adding merely a more or less detached
note on any point of interest as it arises.
1871. Ini87i, the Cash House — so long the sentinel
of the Newtown Gate — which stood as late as 1821,
w^as demolished, and this old landmark had siu-vived
for over 150 years.'
During this year also, on June 27th, a grand Masonic
Festival was held, and, before the close of the year, a
large shoe factory was established in the old West
Grammar-School building by Hayden and Mitchell.
1872-73. There was an unusually heav}^ snowstorm
on the island during March, 1872 — the heaviest since
December, 1867. The recently erected factory of
Hayden and Mitchell was destroyed by fire on August
3. 1873.
1874. As already stated "two boats a day" were
inaugurated on June 6, 1874, and since this event the
number of visitors to the island materially increased,
' William Cash died October 23, 1828, aged eighty-eight years.
1 82 Nantucket
320 passengers having landed from the boat on August
13th, and there were several thousands of visitors during
the season.
The Island Review, a new paper, published by Folger
& Rich, appeared on August 24th.
General Grant visited Nantucket on August 28th.
1875. On June 5, 1875, the Monument (in Monu-
ment Square), erected in memory of the brave citizens
who gave their lives for their country during the Civil
War, was dedicated on Memorial Day.
1876. The Nantucket Literary Union was instituted
and held its first meeting on February 3, 1876.
1877. The Sherburne Lyceum was organized in
1877, met first in the small hall in the Atlantic Hall
building, and later at Wendell's Hall. It had a large
membership for many years, and most interesting
meetings at which lively and interesting debates, etc.,
were held, which did much to stimulate the general
uplift which had been inaugurated.
The election of President Hayes was celebrated by
general rejoicing and a display of illuminations on the
island, March 5, 1877. As first suggested by Mr. F.
C. Sanford during November, the Monument to the
Forefathers was erected near Maxcy's Pond before
the close of this year.
1878. A terrible storm visited the island on Satur-
day, October 12, 1878, and very serious damage to
property resulted. Nothing equal to it had occurred
since the October gale of 1841. The loss was variously
estimated at from $20,000 to $50,000.
The Island Review ceased publication August 31,
1878. The Nantucket Journal, under the editorship
of Arthur H. Gardner, was first issued September 27,
1878.
The Nineteenth Century 183
1879. A protracted storm visited the island on
March 31, 1879, during which many vessels were dis-
abled or lost, while a number of deaths resulted, and
there was a large general loss to vessel property and
cargoes.
After a lapse of twenty-five years, steam service
between Nantucket and New Bedford was restored,
on June 30, 1879. The site of the homestead of
Tristram Coffin, south of Capaum Pond, was marked
by a monolith, during the last week of September.
The establishment, during 1878-79, of the water-
works at Wannacomet, drawing the supply of water
from spring-fed Wannacomet Pond, about one and a
half miles from the town, was one of the most benefi-
cent innovations ever introduced upon the island. The
entire scheme was propounded, planned, and completed
by Moses Joy, Jr., a native Nantucketer, in face of
bitter public opposition, which was not overcome until
the town of Nantucket was plenteously supplied with
excellent water; and this inestimable boon remains as
a monument to his persistency, enterprise, and skill.
The pond has an area of almost eight acres, and a
depth stated to be eighteen feet. The water is pure
and of good quality, and is tested once in every month.
The original pumping engine had a capacity of about
five hundred gallons per minute, but, in 1900-01, a
second pumping station was built, and a second line
of piping laid to the town, which safeguards against
any accident or emergency. The reservoir is one hun-
dred and four feet above low water-mark, and is about
forty-two feet from the ground, the pond itself being a
few feet higher than the sea-level, and even from a
distance it forms a conspicuous object.
The summer supply of water is said to represent
i84 Nantucket
300,000 gallons, and 60,000 in winter. There are some
fifty -five or sixty hydrants in the town, for use in case
of fire.
1880. During 1880, the Legislature granted a
charter to the Nantucket Railroad Co. on April 19th,
and in the following month a single narrow-gauge line
was begun. But it was not until July 4, 1881, that
three miles of the road were completed, and transit
established between Nantucket and Surf- Side.
It is stated that during this summer 30,000 passengers
were carried over the road without an accident.
On May 4, 1880, groimd was broken for the Nantucket
Railroad extension.
An appropriation of $50,000 was passed by Congress
for the improvement of the harbor, as a port of refuge,
on June ist. On August ist, the Bug-lights under the
Cliff were temporarily discontinued, and a successful
trial of the Wannacomet waterworks was realized.
1 88 1. On Tuesday, August 16, 1881, the reunion
festivities of the Clan Coffin began and lasted until
the following Thursday. Great preparations had been
made for this auspicious occasion, and members came
from every part of the country to join in the commemo-
ration of the two hundredth anniversary of the death of
Tristram Coffin, the first of his race who settled in
America. The members of the clan, to the number of
over five hundred, went by train to Surf-Side, where a
sumptuous banquet awaited them.
Tristram Coffin, of New York, was the orator of the
day, and in an interesting and eloquent address he
dilated upon the Coffin family and its association with
the history of the island. His speech was listened to
with profound attention, and was received with enthusi-
astic applause. The address of Hon. Charles Carlton
The Nineteenth Century 185
Coffin on "The American Citizen" was remarkable
in many ways, and was characterized by subhmity of
thought and elegance of diction.
Perfect unanimity and the most cordial feeling per-
vaded this immense family concourse throughout the
notable festival. '
In this year also, the "Nantucket Improvement and
Industrial Association" was instituted.
On February 4th, five oxen were driven over the ice
from the steamer to the shore, it being the coldest day
for years.
At the annual town-meeting, February 21, 1881, a
resolution was adopted formally accepting the gift of
a new town-clock from W. H. Starbuck, which duly
arrived on May 23d.
Work commenced upon the new jetty on April 26th.
On December 20, 1881, a new gravestone was placed
at the head of Captain John Gardner's grave in the
Forefathers' Burial-place at Wannacomet, and the old
stone, which had become dilapidated, was removed to
the oldest house, where it still remains.
The shoals around Nantucket have been accumu-
lating from time immemorial and have always been
not only an insuperable barrier to maritime commerce,
but at all times a source of serious danger to navigation
around the island. These obstructions and dangers
have long been recognized and deplored, yet for many
years the government tiirned a deaf ear to all petitions
for aid in removing them or in making them viable.
In face of the requisite outlay, it was obviously as
useless as impossible for the islanders, imaided, to un-
dertake such a gigantic proposition, and even when,
' A full report of these exercises will be found in the Nantucket
Inquirer of August 20th, 1881.
1 86 Nantucket
by their own exertions they had organized the great-
est whale-fishing industry in the world, nothing was
done to mitigate the evil.
In 1826, the whole bay was surveyed from Brant
Point to Great Point, and diiring the following year
extensive dredging operations were carried out for two
or three years; but it M^as found to be an Augean task,
for the subsequent autumnal gales silted up the sand
again and neutralized all the work that had been done.
Several other projects were suggested from time to time,
but it was not until 1879 that another careful govern-
ment survey was instituted, and General Warren
recommended the construction of two jetties, one ex-
tending into the Sound at Brant Point, and the other
from Coatue.
An appropriation of $50,000 was secured from the
government, and in 1881 the construction of the west-
ern jetty was commenced. The eastern jetty was
begun a few years later. From time to time consider-
able sea-dredging has also been done, and general
conditions are much improved, but there is still much
to be done in this direction, and eventually it will be
necessary to extend the jetties.
During the same month, August 30th, a plot of land
intended for a Union Chapel for all denominations —
the gift of H. G. Brooks, of New York, was dedicated
for that purpose, at Siasconset.
President Arthur visited Nantucket on September
27, 1882.
1883. On the 8th of January occurred one of the
most severe snow storms that for years had been ex-
perienced on the island.
The desirability of instituting a sewerage system in
Nantucket was strongly advocated, but more strongly
The Nineteenth Century 187
opposed, in consonance with the conservative predilec-
tions of the islanders.
March 1st, work was commenced on Surf -Side Hotel,
and it was opened for public use on July 4th, the occa-
sion being celebrated by general rejoicing.
On March i8th, was duly solemnized the first w^ed-
ding that ever occurred on Tuckernuck.
July 15th, the Union Chapel was first opened at
Sconset. On the 17th, a musical and literary enter-
tainment was given to celebrate the event, but the
formal dedication did not take place until July 26, 1883.
August 29th, an unusuall}^ heavy surf at Surf-Side
was witnessed by thousands of people, the terrific fury
of the ocean being phenomenal.
September loth, the taking down of Atlantic Hall
on Main Street commenced; it was removed to Brant
Point to become part of Hotel Nantucket.
The Methodist Episcopal Church on Centre Street
was dedicated on September 24, 1823, and its sixtieth
anniversary was observed on September 23, 1883.
November 20th, the hands of the town-clock were
changed to "standard time."
Diiring the autumn of 1883, in addition to the erec-
tion of the Springfield and Surf-Side Hotels, the Ocean
View annex at Sunset Heights and the Nantucket
Hotel at Brant Point were erected. The latter was
two hundred and sixty feet in length and with a
spacious piazza and balconies.
1884. January 7th, the harbor was sealed with ice.
Another mighty surf occurred on the south side on
January 9th, hills and bluffs were swept away, and the
bed of the railroad was seriously endangered. Febru-
ary 4th, the proposed installation of a sewerage system
was further considered from a hygienic point of view,
1 88 Nantucket
and on the 9th official reports appeared concerning the
matter.
On February 23d, was organized as a corporation,
a new cemetery company to be known as the Mount
Vernon Cemetery Co. This was for the purpose of
controlHng the land adjoining Prospect Hill Cemetery.
March 226., a new bell-buo}^ was placed on the bar.
On July 8th, the Nantucket Railway was extended
to Siasconset, when a spirited celebration was held.
August loth, a shock of earthquake was felt all over
the island. September loth, the hottest day of the
year— 88°.
1885. During this year there is little of special
interest to record concerning Nantucket town, but
Siasconset made marked progress in its development.
Many new buildings were added, the railway facilities
naturally attracted an increased host of visitors, a
post-office was established, and the many attractions
of this famous village speedily enhanced its popularity.
Some notice must, however, be taken of General
Grant's funeral which took place on Sattuday, August
9th, and very interesting and impressive memorial
services were held at the Methodist Episcopal Church,
Nantucket, at which Captain Dahlgren delivered a
spirited address on "Grant as a Soldier," and the Rev,
R. R. Shippen, of Washington, followed with an eloquent
tribute on "General Grant as a Civilian." A touching
and sympathetic memorial, in blank verse, was sub-
sequently read by the gifted author, Dr. Arthtu" El well
Jenks. Similar services were also held at Siasconset.
1886. A terrific storm occurred which involved great
damage to property.
On April 20th, the installation of the electric tele-
graph on the island was completed.
The Nineteenth Century 189
On the 30th of the same month, a citizens' meeting
was held to celebrate the completion of the cable
between Nantucket and the mainland. In order to
carry out this purpose, a cable had been laid, in 1840,
by way of Woods Hole, Martha's Vineyard, and Tucker-
nuck, but it proved unsuccessful, the only important
message received through it being news of the loss of
the steamer Lexington, by fire, on January 13, 1840,
when one hundred and forty lives were lost. Another
submarine cable was laid between Great Point, Nan-
tucket, and Monomoy Point, Cape Cod, on August
19, 1856, but this also proved a failure, and it was not
until October 18, 1886, that a satisfactory cable was
laid by the Government across Nantucket and the
Vineyard Sounds. This is still in every way competent
and effective.
During this year also, a station of the U. S. Weather
Bureau was established on Nantucket. The geographi-
cal position of the island renders this easterly station
most essential, and of great importance. All meteoro-
logical observations are daily reported to Washington,
and when the approach of storms is indicated, warnings
are radiated by the cable in various directions. The
station is well equipped with the most complex and
delicate instruments and appliances requisite for all
meteorological purposes, and is in charge of a coiirteous
and competent observer.
The anniversary of that ancient, time-honored festi-
val of sheep-shearing was celebrated at the Quaise
farm by Harrison Gardner on June 21st, when the
Union Benevolent Society and friends were present to
the number of three hundred and thoroughly enjoyed
themselves in the realization of old scenes and modern
pleasures.
190 Nantucket
1887. The "Sea-Cliff" was built in this year, and
opened under the management of Mrs. Pettee.
1888. The personal property of Nan-
tucket amounted to .... $1,312,264
and the real property to . . . $1,572,334
(From Assessor's Book) . . . $2,884,798
The Nantucket season diiring 1888 was most suc-
cessful, thousands of strangers having visited the
island, and the weather having been almost uniformly
enjoyable.
During three days of the week ending December ist,
a dreadful wind-storm visited Nantucket and did
irreparable damage to property, the railroad having
perhaps sufifered most.
1889. On August 14th, the electric -light plant was
first operated on the island, and the lights were satis-
factorily tested.
On December 27th, the Muskeget Life-Saving Station
was totally destroyed by fire.
1890. Up to this time the island never had so many
visitors as during this year, although an epidemic of
grippe was prevalent.
On February 29th, a blizzard, and on October 27th
a cyclonic storm, did much damage.
The Athenaeum was made a free library in May, by
an arrangement with the town authorities.
Once more the sewerage question was discussed and
reported upon.
1 89 1. March was a month of storms; indeed 1891
was a stormy year, for from the first week in May until
the last week in June was the greatest storm period
since 1832-33.
The Nineteenth Century 191
Point Breeze Hotel was opened for its first season
on June 20, 1892. On February 8th, at a special town-
meeting, the report as to a sewerage scheme was
adopted, and an appropriation of $50,000 voted for its
being carried out.
Among the closing acts of the annual town-meeting
held on March 2d, was the passing of a resolution to
the following effect: "That we the voters of Nantucket
in annual town-meeting assembled, will put forward all
our energies and use all reasonable means, both in our
corporate capacity and by encouraging individual
efforts, to make Nantucket one of the most popular
resorts in America."
At this meeting also, after being agitated for seven
years, the sewerage question was settled affirmatively,
the votes being "Yes" 334, "No" 148.
On March 31st, it was resolved to increase the num-
ber of electric lights in the streets.
On April 8th, a franchise was granted to extend the
railroad to Siasconset by a new and shorter route,
under the management of the Nantucket Central
Railroad Co.; and an additional appropriation was
granted during this month for further work on the
jetties. During April, also, a new filter was built for
the waterworks.
In November, a new light ship, "No. 54," was placed
at the mouth of Nantucket Sound; and, at the end of
the month, a violent tempest, with a maximum velocity
of sixty miles an hour, visited the island. However,
although the hurricane was terrific, little or no per-
manent damage resulted.
1893. In this year there is nothing of historic
interest to chronicle except perhaps ' ' the usual August
storm," which occurred on August 20th and which
192 Nantucket
attained a maximum velocity of fifty-nine miles and
caused much and irreparable damage.
1894. On April 14th, Alexander vStarbuck proposed
the institution of an association consisting of the Sons
and Daughters of Nantucket, which was duly estab-
lished and incorporated, and an annual meeting, with
a large and progressive membership, has, every year
since its inauguration, been held in Boston, where the
islanders meet for recreation and social enjoyment.
The meetings are usually held during November, at
one of the large Boston hotels, and while conducing
much to promote the confraternity of Nantucketers,
they have brought them together from their new homes
on the mainland, made them acquainted with each
other, while renewing old friendships, and tending to
foster ties of amity and camaraderie among new friends.
On June i8th, a devastating whirlwind occurred on
the island. During September a great fire broke out
in Gibbs's Swamp and the surrounding neighborhood.
The Nantucket Historical Association was established
in May, 1894. The members constituting the Council
purchased the old Quaker schoolhouse, on Fair Street
(built in 1838), and became incorporated during the
following July. Here a varied and valuable miscella-
neous collection, consisting of maritime implements,
domestic and foreign curios and antiquities, pictures,
books, maps, charts, and historical sundries, soon
accumulated, and rapidly increased to such an extent
that, in 1903, the Council resolved to erect at once a
fireproof building in order to protect and display the
manifold objects with which they had been entrusted.
In 1900, the Museum, which had been housed in the
Athenaeum, and which, owing to alterations in the
arrangement of the latter institution, the trustees were
The Nineteenth Century 193
willing to transfer, was turned over to the Historical
Association, and the union of the two collections con-
stituted an historical and representative collection
such as is probably unsurpassed by any other provincial
museum in the State. The new fireproof building
was erected in the rear of the meeting-house, and con-
sists of a large basement, ground-floor, and gallery,
with a vestibule of one story on the east fagade, and the
premises are all that could be desired, so far as utility,
lighting, convenience, and ample room are concerned.
The old meeting-, or schoolhouse, is still used for annual
or other meetings, and remains much as it was when
it was used for religious purposes. The Council was
fortunate in receiving bequests which not only enabled
them to liquidate all the expenses of building, but to
serve as a partial endowment and to defray the expenses
of their publications.
Work on the new State road to Siasconset was be-
gun at Barnard's Valley, on October 2d.
1895. An epidemic of grippe was prevalent on the
island during June.
Nantucket Island was widely advertised through
circulars of its approaching centennial celebration. On
July 9th, a century had passed since the name of the
town was changed from Sherburne to Nantucket, and
this occasion the islanders resolved to commemorate.
Moreover, the town having been incorporated in 1671,
the auspicious occasion really partook of the nature of
a bi-centenary.
No more extensive demonstration was ever attempted
on "the little purple island." It was held on July 9th,
loth, and nth, and was most successful and impressive,
being most happily conceived and thoughtfully executed.
Hundreds of the sons and daughters of the island,
194 Nantucket
who had wandered far and near and to many climes,
returned to their island home to share her rejoicing,
and to renew the inspiring associations of childhood;
and right heartily were they welcomed to the bosom
of the fond mother who bore them. The old town was
joyously arrayed, almost every house being gaily deco-
rated, and while the national flag adorned every
point of vantage, streamers and banners of every color
fluttered brightly from one end of the town to the other.
Triumphal arches, masses of taste and coloring, decked
the prominent places of the principal thoroughfares,
and everywhere, and in every way, the islanders showed
how heartily and with what unanimity they had re-
solved to make the occasion one never to be forgotten.
Sheep-shearing, festivals, and squantums were re-
instituted, and the quondam glories of the famous
whale-fisheries were reproduced as far as possible once
more.
The proceedings commenced with the pealing of
bells and artillery salutes, which re-echoed over the
ocean, while the rapturous cheers from many hundreds
of happy hearts made the island ring with joy.
Literary exercises, as varied as interesting, as exten-
sive as excellent, were held in the North Church, con-
sisting for the most part of centennial odes, and of
many masterly addresses on appropriate historical,
social, and religious subjects. In the evening a ban-
quet was held at which covers were laid for 1 150 guests.
As a chronicler has well said: "It was a universal week
of rejoicing, love, and good-will to all mankind, which
ought to make every Nantucketer sound the gladsome
paeans of Nantucket for ever."'
■ For a full report of this notable commemoration, vide supplement to
Nantucket Inquirer, issued July 13, 1895.
The Nineteenth Century 195
The Nantucket Central Railroad extension was
finished to Sconset, and the first train ran through,
amid much rejoicing, on August 15th.
On November 27th, a fierce gale (fifty or sixty miles
an hour), wild waves, snow, high tides, and cold ternpera-
ture made up an experience which those who realized
it will not soon forget.
1897. The "Old Mill" was purchased by Miss
Caroline L. W. French at public auction, and presented
to the Nantucket Historical Association on August 4th.
The price realized was $885.
1898. January 31st. A storm of tremendous energy
burst over the island, but comparatively little damage
was done.
During April of this year, legislative authority was
granted to the town to spend $1000 annually in adver-
tising, and the resolution was approved by the Governor
on April 26th.
On July 29th, a collision occurred between the Nan-
tucket and Gay Head steamers, off Nobska Light, in a
fog. No Uves were lost, but the Nantucket was badly
damaged.
Saturday and Sunday, November 26th and 27th,
a terrible storm (popularly known since as "the Port-
land storm," from the loss of the steamer Portland
with all on board), having its centre at Nantucket,
burst over the island, and did damage to the amount
of $5000 ; the wind attained a velocity of ninety miles
an hour, and the tide rose to an unprecedented height.
1899. February 12th to 15th, an unusual spell of
cold and storm, followed by a severe fall of snow, was
ushered in. The island became ice-bound. During
this month the cold weather exceeded in severity and
duration anything that can be remembered.
196 Nantucket
Union Street was repaved, beginning April loth.
The work of building the Orange Street road commenced
during the week ending April 29th.
1900, Grippe was again prevalent on the island,
during January.
During the early part of this year there was much
talk of progress in many directions. In connection
with the exploitation of Coatue, a Coatue Building
Syndicate was formed and builders were engaged, a
railway to the Cliff was projected, a street railroad was
proposed and discussed, a sewerage system for Sconset
was considered, the relaying of Nantucket streets, a
new road to Monomoy, tree planting, the booming of
Surf-Side and general building operations ; all these had
their advocates, but the projects failed to materialize,
and for a period peace and quietude reigned once more
upon the island. Such spasmodic activities had been
noticed aforetime with similar results, and no doubt
this gave rise to the saying that "the authorities of
Nantucket seem to wake up and to do something once
in seven years!"
About the middle of August, twenty-seven miles of
electric wire had been installed on the island, and nearly
one thousand incandescent lights.
1 901. An unusually heavy snowfall, eight inches,
occurred on the island on February 23d, affording a
splendid opportunity for sleighing.
The leasing of Long Pond and Madeket Ditch was
again considered after many previous discussions.
After several previous trials, Nantucket Central
Railroad new service was instituted on July 4th.
Wireless telegraphy was installed at Siasconset during
August, 1 90 1, and Nantucket Island was honored
when it was selected as the first station in America
The Nineteenth Century 197
whereon was erected Marconi's wonderful invention
for the transmission and reception of messages to and
from steamers on the ocean. This surpassing effort
of inventive genius has indeed proved an inestimable
boon to the "ships at sea," and it would be rash to
forecast the future possibilities of this marvelous new
system of intercommunication. '
A loop from the telegraph cable connects the office
to the mainland, and the service is open both by day
and by night.
The first message received was from the steamer
Lucania.
The tide of travel to the island during the season of
1 90 1 tried the capacity of the hotels and boarding-
houses to a degree never before experienced, and
augured well for the continued success of Nantucket
as a sea resort.
1902. At a town-meeting held on February 3d,
appropriations were voted to the amount of $60,335,
and a bill to acquire the Cliff Bathing Beach as public
property was withdrawn, owing to the opposition of
the committee.
The River and Harbor Bill providing for the expen-
diture of $70,000 passed the U. S. Senate on April 21st,
$35,000 to be expended upon Nantucket and Hyannis.
After much discussion at the annual town-meeting
held on April 21st, by a vote of forty-nine to ten it was
decided to raise $20,000 on notes, and $40,000 by taxa-
tion, and thus maintain a lower tax rate.
The manufacture of hygienic ice was established on
the island during April, 1902.
On May 2d, a bill to place the regulation of fares
' An accurate description of the system and its modes of operation
will be found in the Nantucket Inquirer and Mirror August lo, 1901.
198 Nantucket
and freights on steamboat lines plying between ports
of Massachusetts iinder the control of the Railroad
Commission was carried in the House, after strenuous
opposition and spirited debate, through the persistence
of Arthur H. Gardner. St. Paul's Church was con-
secrated on St. Barnabas Day, June 11, 1902.
During September, Sconset wireless station was
lighted by electric light; and the season closed as one
of the gayest and most successful which the village
had known.
A lack of coal supply, owing to a great strike among
the coal miners, made the islanders very anxious.
On Tuesday, December 9th, occurred the last zero
temperature recorded on the island, viz: 1° below.
1903. The minds of the islanders were relieved by
a supply of coal arriving on January 4th.
$60,852.67 was appropriated at February town-
meeting, a large portion of which was devoted to roads.
A bill was also passed by the Massachusetts Legisla-
ture authorizing the town to purchase the Cliff Bathing
Beach through a loan by the State to be repaid by the
town.
In June, an act was passed enabling Nantucket to
provide a water supply for Sconset.
On October 5th the Coffin School was reopened for
teaching manual training.
The following inscription was found on a beam in
the Unitarian Church tower, on September 26th, during
repairs: "This tower was rebuilt by Perez Jenkins
in 1830, — height 10 feet 5>^ inches to top of points."
The Nantucket Athletic Club was incorporated in
1890 for the purpose of offering facilities for athletic
games and recreation. It was not, however, until the
autumn of 1904 that the proposed building was begun,
The Nineteenth Century 199
and on April 5, 1905, it was finished, equipped, and
opened to members and their friends.
The club-house, near the steamboat landing, con-
tains two bowling alleys, a billiard room, reception
room, card rooms, and a large room for meetings,
conversazioni, etc. In connection with the club-house
are fine tennis courts, where tournaments are frequently
held. Balls, receptions, concerts, readings, lectures,
etc., are occasionally given in the spacious amusement
hall. The club consists entirely of men but they accord
many privileges to the fair sex, and the institution is a
source of many refined pleasures not only to the town,
but, during summer, to throngs of visitors.^
During 1903 also, the Electric and Power Co. suc-
ceeded by purchase to the Citizens Gas Co. and the
amalgamation of these two companies under the name
of the Citizens Gas, Electric, and Power Co. insured a
vastly improved joint service which is now keenly ap-
preciated, and the equipment is all that could be
desired.
1904. The Civic League was formed on January
14th, in order to promote the welfare of the town gener-
ally, especially to secure its cleanliness and good order,
and in every respect the League has well fulfilled the
purposes for which it was established.
The Bathing Beach was leased for fifteen years, at
$350 per annum, and the Bathing PaviHon was erected
during May of this year.
During June, a water plant was installed at Sconset.
The Marconi Co. established a station at Siasconset,
in this year.
' In 1912, the name of the club was changed to the " Nantucket Club,"
and a fine pier was built out from the veranda at the back, which gives
ample facilities for boating and aquatic sports.
200 Nantucket
The corner-stone of a new fireproof building for the
security of the historical collection was laid at the
Nantucket Historical Association on September 17,
1905, A station of the New York Yacht Club was
established at Nantucket in this year. This was due
entirely to the enterprise and generosity of Paul The-
baud, the well-known yachtsman of New York, who
supplied the building, fully equipped, with landing-
stage, tenders, and every accessory at his own expense.
There is also an attendant in charge of it. Since its
establishment the visiting yachts in the harbor have
increased threefold, doubtless encouraged also by the
deepening of the channel.
During the spring, an appropriation of $80,000 was
secured for the purpose of deepening the harbor and
channel, of which $70,000 was available for Nantucket.
At the same time economy and reform in town matters
were strongly advocated owing to unhealthy financial
conditions.
The museum at the Athenseum was transferred to
the Nantucket Historical Association during April.
Five thousand dollars was granted by the Legislature
for improvement of the harbor during the same month.
A reception was given by the Historical Association,
on the occasion of the opening of their rooms, on June
15th.
The overseers of the poor named the Asylum for the
Poor "Our Island Home."
The Civic League held their annual meeting and
banquet at the Point Breeze Hotel on July 20th, eighty
members being present.
"Billy Clark," the Town Crier, had a successful
"Song Recital" as a testimonial, at the Athletic Club
on September 23d, added to a subscription of $388.50.
The Nineteenth Century 201
The Nantucket Hotel property was sold at public
auction on September 30th.
Harbor dredging temporarily ceased at end of De-
cember.
1906. Alvin Hull, one of the town criers, died sud-
denly during this year. ' He was a veteran of the Civil
War, a whaler, and had officiated as town crier for
over twenty years. He was generally esteemed.
1907. The new Bathing Pavilion was opened at
Sconset in August.
At the town-meeting in February, $1000 was appro-
priated to further advertise the island as a health
resort, and spirited efforts were made in this direction.
During May, the town adopted a modern telegraph
fire-alarm system; and the dredging of the harbor was
recommenced in July.
The question as to admitting automobiles on the
island was rediscussed, and settled negatively during
October.
During the season the hotels and boarding-houses
were filled to overflowing.
The Marconi wireless station at Sconset was de-
stroyed by fire on November 15th.
A motor car arrived for Nantucket Railroad, and
ran to Sconset in less than thirty minutes.
1908. On January ist, new automobile railroad
mail service was installed between Nantucket and
Sconset, vice the old mail coach.
On January 23d, the worst storm for twenty years
burst over the island; greatest maximum velocity
eighty-three miles. Damages estimated at $5000.
It is said that one puff registered a velocity of over
one hundred and twenty miles per hour!
' August 10, 1906, aged sixty years five months.
202 Nantucket
The new lightship, "85, " was placed in position dur-
ing the first week in February.
The town-meeting on February ist appropriated
$60,000. An appropriation for defraying the expenses
of a band was voted in opposition to one proposed for
advertising. One thousand dollars was voted for the
establishment of a town gymnasium. It was resolved
to erect a new stand pipe at Wannacomet waterworks,
eighty feet high, with a capacity of 180,000 gallons
more than the present tank, and to contain 400,000
gallons.
The expense of erecting the eastern jetty was com-
puted at $375,000. The estimated cost of the western
jetty, the construction of which was begun in 1881,
was $112,000.
The Cliff beacons ("Bug-lights") were finally dis-
continued.
In April a bill was passed at the State-House per-
mitting the Selectmen practically to exclude auto-
mobiles from the island, from June 15th to September
15th in each year.
The Maria Mitchell Observatory was dedicated on
July 15th.
New range lights (skeleton towers) were placed at
Brant Point on July 14th.
The season of 1908 was the most successful in
Sconset's history.
A new motor car on the Nantucket Railroad had
its trial trip, between Nantucket and Sconset, on July
30th, and the result was very satisfactory.
On November 9th, the opening at head of harbor was
entirely closed, and much discussion was entailed as to
the possible results.
1909. The appropriation for town expenses has
The Nineteenth Century 203
almost doubled during the past sixteen years, between
1893 and 1909, In 1893 it amounted to $34,900, and
in 1909 to $68,455.38.
"Billy Clark" died on Tuesday, August 17, 1909,
(having been born at Nantucket, on November 17,
1846), after many years' service as an esteemed and
respected town crier.
1 910. Nantucket got another appropriation of
$50,000 for the jetties.
The annual appropriations at town-meeting, held
February 14th, totalled $71,681.08.
During March it was proposed to raise by pop-
ular subscription, another $1000, to advertise Nan-
tucket.
The Sewer Commissioners' report, issued April 22d,
showed a total cost of $7,524.00. This sum was
subsequently appropriated.
Many important improvements were suggested for
Sconset in April, principally with a view to improved
sanitation.
During the past decade many experiments have
been made regarding transportation to Siasconset, but
early in June a new system was inaugurated with every-
thing new. The new rolling stock arrived at the end
of May, and was placed in operation on June 7th, with
gratifying success.
This year's season was not only the best ever experi-
enced in Nantucket, but also the best ever known in
Sconset; 10.000 visitors were accommodated on the
island.
The annual valuation of Nantucket shows an increase
of more than $160,000 over that of last year,
A further appropriation for Nantucket harbor was
granted during December, 1910.
204 Nantucket
191 1. The new steamboat Sankaty arrived on
May 2d.
During the week ending August 5th, the Sconset
Carnival was held, including the crowning of the king
and queen, a street parade, games, etc.
In the spring and summer dredging was continued,
previous efforts having been unsatisfactory, if not
inutile to a great degree, owing to the fact that the
work had been carried on in deep water ! The present
contract provides for the deepening of the water over
the bar to the depth of seventeen feet.
Another banner season, hotels, summer cottages,
and boarding-houses being so crowded that many
visitors had to return by the boats — the much aug-
mented accommodation of the island being overtaxed.
1 91 2. This year, while meager in matters of historical
interest, was devoid of sensations, but replete with
conventional happenings. The Legislature granted
an appropriation of $10,000 for deepening the anchorage
in Nantucket harbor.
CHAPTER XI
SOME EARLY DWELLINGS IN NANTUCKET
However simple and unpretentious the earliest
architecture on the island of Nantucket may have been,
yet, like the law of evolution, it manifests progress
from a lower to a higher type during the lapse of historic
time. While the primeval habitations of the English
settlers in the neighborhood of Hummock Pond and
Wannacomet were of the humblest possible character,
we recognize a still higher type in, for example, the
"Oldest House," built in 1686.
When the so-called town was removed from Wanna-
comet to Wesko — the modern Nantucket — about 1 720,
a still higher type prevailed in the adoption of two-stor}^
houses, with the northern roof sloping down to the
first story, which now constitutes perhaps most of the
houses in the town. At a still later period many of
the houses assumed the character of having two stories
in front and rear, and then, in a few instances, of gam-
br el -roofed houses, but never to any great extent.
Many superior houses of a colonial type were subse-
quently built; for example, the imposing dwellings in
upper Main Street and elsewhere.
Probably not a vestige remains of the original houses
built by the primitive settlers from the settlement in
205
2o6 Nantucket
1 66 1 to 1680. The earliest house of which there is
any record was that inhabited by Nathaniel Starbuck
soon after his arrival in 1660, and it was built at the
western end of the island. It must have been only a
temporar}^ abode, as in 1670 it was no longer in exist-
ence. While the location of the original house-lots
may be indicated with some precision, there is no means
of ascertaining the exact or even probable situation of
the houses upon them.
The "Cambridge Spring," near Hummock Pond, is
believed to have indicated the position of the so-called
"Parliament House" — the residence of Nathaniel and
Mary Starbuck. James Coffin's house is said to have
stood to the north of this; and tradition asserts that
Tristram Coffin's dwelling occupied a spot at the south-
west end of Capaum Pond, which has been marked with
a monolith by his successors. It is also more or less
authoritatively stated that John Coleman, senior and
junior, and Jeremiah Coleman lived on the plains, as also
did the early Barnards, and Allen and Richard Swain.
John Mott had land in the Long Woods; William
Bunker lived near Squam Pond; the earliest Cart-
wrights, at Pocomo. Peter Folger lived on the western
side of the Allen Smith house, near the west end of
Jethro Folger's lane on upper Main Street. Eleazer
Folger, his eldest son, lived on the hill back of the
Abner Turner house on West Chester Street, and John,
the youngest son, lived at Polpis. The Gardners,
Richard and John, lived at the northwestern part of
Nantucket, in the neighborhood where Hamblin's
farm now stands.
Thomas Macy, after residing near "Maticat,"
(Madeket) for a year or so, lived on the Pond field
at Wannacomet, where he died in 1682.
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 207
Edward Starbuck resided near the north head of
Hummock Pond, where he died in 1690, aged eighty-six
years.
The first town-house is said to have stood near the
Thomas Backus house; the second, near the Holmes
country. Here also stood the jail.
As time progressed, the residences became centralized
in the vicinity of Wannacomet; but, about 1720, when
Capaum had been cut off from the sea, and had become
a mere pond, the inhabitants resolved to remove the
settlement to Wesko — now the town of Nantucket —
principally because of the facilities rendered by spacious
harbor accommodation at the latter place. A few
houses had been erected in the neighborhood some years
previously to the exodus, but it was not until about
1720 that building operations on an extensive scale
were carried on at Wesko; and in numerous instances
houses were removed from the old center to the new.
With very few exceptions, therefore, Nantucket, as it
now stands, consists mainly of houses which were
built diiring the first quarter of the i8th century.
A few notes on the earlier houses which still in part
remain may not be without interest, if they serve no
more useful purpose.
THE "oldest house" IN NANTUCKET — 1686-I912
On the quaintly delightful island of Nantucket —
so full of natural charms, so brimful with historical
associations — there are few objects of keener interest
than the ancient house, built in 1686, as a wedding gift
to a yoimg pair, the bridegroom the grandson of one
of the earliest white settlers, and the bride — "sweet
sixteen" — a daughter of Captain John Gardner, also
2o8 Nantucket
an early settler, and up to the time of his death, in
1706, Chief Justice of the island.
What changes have taken place since, like a lonely-
sentinel, this primitive dwelling first raised its front
on the north shore, at the top of Sunset Hill ! Two
hundred and twenty -four years! Only one hundred
and ninety-four years after the discovery of the New
World, only eighty-four years after the discovery of
the island by Bartholomew Gosnold, only sixty-six
years after the landing of the Pilgrims! There it has
stood during the decay of empires, the thwarted am-
bitions of kings and emperors, and for nearly a century
before the American Revolution had consecrated the
United States "as the home of the brave and the land
of the free" ; and there it still stands, as proudly as ever,
where it has marked the rise, the fall, and the re-ascen-
sion of "the little purple island," smiling amid its
venerable associations, and the pride of all Nantucketers.
We claim no stately architectural beauties for this
antiquated dwelling-house, for it was erected long
before colonial architecture had ever reached the "old
country" from which it was subsequently imported.
It was, indeed, a mere cottage, as it stands to-day
after two hundred and tw^enty-four years, but the happy
home of one of the pioneers of civilization on this vast
continent.
When the marriage was determined, it was arranged
that Captain John Gardner should supply the land for
the building, and, inasmuch as the prospective bride-
groom's father "owned large acreage of forest at Ex-
eter, N. H.," it was decided that he should supply the
necessary lumber for the framework of the house, and,
accordingly, this was conveyed in one of his own vessels.
It has been stated that, when the house was built.
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 209
there were not more than thirty houses on the island.
When all was prepared, Jethro Coffin and Mary Gardner
were duly married in their own house.
"The site selected was about one hundred and fifty
feet from the brow of the hill, as it stands at the present
day. . . . The main building occupying a space of
about eighteen feet by thirty-five."^
The house consists of two stories and an attic, and
the southern aspect of the sloping roof was much shorter
than that in the rear. When the house was built, the
northern roof came down to within a few feet of the
ground, running over a lean-to, which extended along
the rear of the house from one end to the other. It is
not generally known, however, that at one time the
northeast corner of the roof was destro^^ed by fire, and
when the damage was repaired the angle was not
restored, so that pictures of the house only represent
the downward extension of the northern roof on the
northwest end. The reason assigned for the greater
extent of the northern roof is that, in most old Nan-
tucket houses the short roof is on the southern exposure,
and the long roof on that of the north, because the
prevailing winds are from the southwest, and in running
up the south roof and running down the longer northern
roof, the wind would not tend so much to tear ofif the
shingles. Under the shingles the roof itself was origi-
nally covered with boards about eighteen inches broad,
running lengthwise up and down.
Midway on the roof bridge is one large brick chimney-
stack through which all the flues in the house are con-
nected. Of this chimney more anon.
On the front, or southern, aspect of the house are
the front door and two windows. When the house was
' Tnisttim and his Grandchildren, by Mrs. Worron, 1881.
210 Nantucket
built, there was an extensive wooden porch erected in
front of this door, and upon this opened, on its eastern
side, a massive door of oak, which constituted the real
hall door of the house. The outer door was opened by
passing a finger through a small hole in the door itself
and lifting a solid bar of oak, which effectually secured
the door when it was shut. This useful, as well as
ornamental appendage, is no longer remembered,
having disappeared in the flux of time. It is stated
by Mrs. Worron, who resided in the house at an early
period, that the space disclosed when this outer door
was opened, "was large enough to admit a yoke of
oxen."
On the east end of the house are three windows, one
for each story, and on the west end are four, one to
light the living-room on the ground floor, a small narrow
one lighting the little bedroom north of the living-room,
one for the second story, and one for the attic. The
window supplying the living-room, is somewhat remark-
able, inasmuch as the upper sash has two rows with
five panes in each, and the lower sash has three rows
with five panes in each. So far as is known, there is
no similar window on the island, and being in several
ways more elaborate than any of the other windows,
it may be assumed that it was of later origin than the
house itself.
The house is very substantially built of large oak
beams averaging from twelve to fourteen inches in
diameter, about a foot square ; and none of these, even
now, shows symptoms of decay. The main beams are
strengthened on the second floor by means of "ship's
knees" of oak, bolted to the floor beams and uprights.
Cedar laths have been nailed to the flooring above, by
hand-made nails, and the plaster, freely used in covering
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 211
them, was mainly composed of ground shells. There
are evidences of more modern lathing and plastering
having been superimposed at a subsequent date.
Entering the front door we find ourselves in a small
vestibule, out of which open two large rooms, occupy-
ing the whole of the ground-floor, that on the east being
known as the "keeping-room," and that on the west
the living-room. Between, in front of the large chim-
ney, is a winding stairway leading to the second story.
The keeping-room is a large room, but the ceiling is
low, not more than six and one-half feet high.
The superior workmanship of the house is apparent
the moment one enters: heavy oak beams edge the
ceiling, and one immense beam, flanked on either side
by six or eight supports of sturdy oak planking, crosses
the middle of the ceiling itself.
In this keeping-room, as well as in the western or
living-room, is a huge fireplace, which, in its original
condition, monopolized more than half the length of
the room, and its depth could easily accommodate a
whole family. The fireplace in this room has, however,
been more recently made smaller, part of it having been
converted into a good-sized closet, and a narrower fire-
grate installed.
Here, also, on the spacious mantelpiece, is a specimen
of colonial carving which is as daint}'' and elegant as
is imaginable. Its delicacy and flawlessness, after all
the years that have flown since its construction, are
really most remarkable. This mantel was placed in
the living-room at the time of the cutting down of the
fireplace.
At the north end of the room, is a small, narrow
"back-entry" or closet, with a narrow back door,
leading into the back yard, and at the sill of the
212 Nantucket
door there is a large, flat doorstep of stone, well worn
with time.
The walls of the keeping-room are covered with the
stern boards of ships (bearing their respective names),
which have been wrecked in the neighborhood during
the prosperous whaling industry, and are fraught with
sad memories of other days. An imitation carpet,
painted on the floor of this room, can even yet be
discerned.
As we cross the small vestibule between the two
front rooms, there is noticed a small window about
twelve or fourteen inches long and four inches high, at
the east side of the front door. This is known as the
"Indian Peep-hole." It has not yet been fully deter-
mined why it was so placed, although from its situation
it would have admirably served the purpose mentioned ;
for, as has been stated, " It is so high that while persons
outside could not see in, those inside could see out."
In the living-room on the west side of the house is
also a magnificent fireplace in all its original amplitude,
measuring seven feet four inches in length and about
five feet in depth. The back of the cavity is semi-
circular instead of square, as is usual, and it is perhaps
as perfect a specimen of late seventeenth century work
as can be seen.
These two lower rooms contain numerous relics —
furniture, china, bric-a-brac and other objects of interest
which space, unfortunately, will not permit to be
particularized. At the back of this room are some
domestic offices and a small bedroom.
Up the gradually narrowing staircase we ascend to
the second story, where there are three rooms; but the
western or "Bridal Chamber" is the only one that
claims our interest. It is a large room, nearly square,
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 213
with one western window, and an admirable open fire-
place remaining exactly as it was originally constructed.
This room contains the only original mantel in the
house, and its peculiar design is suggestive of the keel
of a ship. The room measures eighteen feet long, the
floor being covered with eleven boards, some nineteen
or twenty inches broad.
In this room, is a closet still known as "The Indian
Closet." This room also contains all that remains of
the headstone erected over the grave of Captain John
Gardner, one hundred and seventy-five years ago. It
was the only one discernible in the old burying ground
near Maxcy's Pond, where it reposed from 1706 to
1881 ; and, in order to save it from the ravages of relic
hunters, it was, for preservation, removed to "The
Oldest House," in 1883. The inscription is still de-
cipherable.
Another flight of stairs leads to the attic, which has
never been finished, but is almost made into two rooms
by the stairway and the chimney. From the scuttle
in the roof, which is reached by a few rough steps, a
splendid view of the island is afforded, including the
beautiful moorlands, the fine harbor, and the interesting
buildings.
A few words must here be devoted to the large chim-
ney-stack projecting from the roof, which is remarkable,
not only for its size, but for its uniqueness. There has
been much difference of opinion as to the significance
of its ornamentation. The chimney is built of bricks
said to have been brought from England in Nantucket
vessels as ballast, and it has an ornamental cornice of
several rows of bricks around the top On its south
aspect is a figure, wrought in brickwork, resembling
an inverted U, which measures two feet by three and
214 Nantucket
one-half feet, within the bend of which is the monogram
J. C, representing Jethro Coffin. So strongly has the
idea dominated the minds of the people generally that
this U-shaped figure was designated a horseshoe to
propitiate good luck and to exorcise demons, that the
house itself is better known by the title of "The Horse
Shoe House" than by any other, and especially so
because, at the time the house was built, and for years
previously, "the dark shadow of witchcraft hung like
a pall over the primitive homes and hamlets of New
England"; although the terrible Salem witchcraft trials
did not take place until some six years later. It is
possible, however, that the figure was intended only as
an ornament; but who can settle the question?
Such in outline is the house erected two hundred and
twenty-four years ago as a wedding gift to Jethro and
Mary Coffin, where "Little Peter," their child (named
after his grandfather), was born, and where the "Bridal
Chamber" remains almost exactly as they left it during
the dawn of civilization on the island. When it was
built (and it has been stated that Jethro himself was
the principal artificer in its erection), it was considered
one of the best houses in the neighborhood; and that
its foundations were "well and truly laid" is proved by
its having withstood the ravages of time during more
than two centuries, and in its still surviving, almost
as hale as ever, amid the vicissitudes of its venerable
antiquity.
The house was sold by the Coffin family to Nathaniel
Paddock in 1707, the year after Captain John Gardner's
death. For many years afterwards, it was abandoned
as a dwelling-house and utilized for the storage of hay.
In 1 88 1, at the time of a reunion of the Coffin family,
commemorating the two hundredth anniversary of the
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 215
original Tristram Coffin's death, when the house was be-
coming dilapidated, it was rebought for preservation by
Tristram Coffin, of Poughkeepsie, N. Y., and his brother,
who put on a new roof, repaired the top of the chimney,
strengthened some of the supports, and partially re-
shingled the exterior. Thus it remained until- 1886,
the anniversary of its building, when it was resolved
to restore "The Oldest House" carefully and judici-
ously. This was thoroughly done, though the original
conditions were preserved with as little change as
possible, and without destroying any of the ancient
characteristics.
It was during these repairs that the date of the erec-
tion of the house was discovered in the attic, " 1686,"
in figures eight inches long, being painted on the side
of the chimney. These were unfortunately, destroyed
in putting in an iron support to strengthen the chimney.
. After the house had been put into such repair as
enabled the workman to say "it was good for at least
another hundred years," it was kept securely closed
for eleven years. In 1897, however, the summer visi-
tors to the island clamored so vigorously that in June
a curator was appointed, and the house has remained
open for inspection ever since, much to the gratification
of the general public.
An original portrait, in oil, of Mary Coffin, for which
she is said to have sat three times in Boston, is still in
the possession of Mrs. Eunice Coffin Gardner Brooks,
of Nantucket, — a lineal descendant of Mary Coffin, —
but though the portrait has been attributed erroneously
to Copley, the artist remains unknown; the picture
contains some of Copley's characteristics, which would
suggest the probability of its having been painted by
some one of the great artist's teachers.
2i6 Nantucket
At the east end of the house was the well which sup-
plied it with water. The old-fashioned "sweep" is
still in its position, and the curbing having been restored
and the mason-work put in sanitary repair, the water
can be drawn to-day as pure and sparkling as when the
sweet young face of the bride of sixteen was reflected
from its depths in 1686.
Up to 1902, the oldest house on the island was un-
questionably that originally built and occupied by John
Swain, one of the primitive settlers, who, after living
for a number of years near the south head of Hummock
Pond, bought land at Polpis in 1680, and afterwards
built the house now under consideration. Unfortu-
nately the house was destroyed by a thunderstorm in
1902, so that an opportunity of examining it has not
been afforded, but from a photograph the house appears
to have been a simple lean-to of one story, with a brick
chimney, as usual, at the west end. On the east end
a smaller lean-to was erected subsequently, and, still
later, another was built on the west end.
The original house was erected before the last decade
of the seventeenth century, soon after the purchase of
the land, but it is impossible to say definitely, under
the circumstances, as an examination of the interior
is no longer practicable. The house was evidently built
on the ground and without a foundation. Many in-
accuracies have appeared with regard to the year in
which this house was built.
What is now known as the barn at Hamblin's Farm,
near the cliff, was originally part of an early house
erected in 1696, as appears from a date cut into a
granite doorstone, together with two initial letters, the
first of which is indistinctly G, and the other distinctly
E. Inquiry has elicited the probability that the letters
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 217
stand for George and Eunice — George Gardner, the
son of Captain John Gardner, having married Eunice
Starbuck — and that the land on which the house is
built was the property of Captain John Gardner. It is
also alleged that Captain Gardner built the house in
1696 for his son and daughter-in-law. The allegation
is further sustained by the fact that Captain Gardner's
own residence — the site of which is still indicated — •
was only about four hundred feet from the house in
question.
George Gardner died in 1750 and was succeeded by
his son Grafton, w^ho died in 1789, he in turn having
been succeeded by his son, Silas Gardner.
In 1800, Thomas Brock purchased the house and
some thirteen acres of land from Silas Gardner, and
eventually the house became the property of Thomas
C. Hamblin, through the descendants of Thomas Brock.
The house and farm still belong to the Hamblin
family.
In or about 1842, Hamblin having built another
dwelling near-by, the original house was used as a barn,
having been mutilated by the removal of its western
half, the original chimney, and a lean-to on the north
side — thus leaving only the eastern section of the origi-
nal house, which is all that now remains. The original
house was evidently a double lean-to.
The writer was unfortunate during a recent inspec-
tion in being prevented from making a careful examina-
tion of the interior by the fact that the barn was full of
hay; but the original frame uprights are still in posi-
tion. The walls are filled with clay, and clam-shell
mortar has been used. The upright posts are strong
and thick, and bracketed. The original two rooms have
been thrown into one for farming purposes, and when
2i8 Nantucket
the house was built it was evidently a lean-to house
with all the usual characteristics, including a chimney
in the middle of the roof, and the door in the middle
of the southern aspect. Although for several reasons
it might be relegated to a somewhat later period, there
is other evidence sufficiently strong to justif}'- the claim
of its having been built before 1700.
Another interesting old house, associated with the
Starbucks in early days, is that now owned and occu-
pied by Mrs. Benjamin G. Tobey, at the corner of Main
and Gardner Streets. The house, as it now stands, con-
sists of two incorporated sections — the west end from
1757, as appears from a date on the wall of an upstairs
closet, when the house apparently assumed its present
form — the eastern section of much earlier date. Tradi-
tion asserts that the eastern section was brought from
Madeket, which is not very improbable. It was
unquestionably removed from elsewhere to its present
position. From its general characteristics — its seven
feet long brick fireplace and oven, the cedar frames to
windows, long northern roof sloping down to lean-to,
in addition to peculiarities of construction — this section
was probably built during the first quarter of the
eighteenth century.
The house was formerly occupied by Zaccheus Star-
buck, who was born on February 2, 1733, as recorded
on the handle of a birth-spoon owned by Mrs. Tobey.
He moved into the house from elsewhere, but it is
difficult to trace it farther back.
Tristram Starbuck, his son, was born about 1770.
He was the grandfather of Mrs. Tobey, who was born
in the house. In 1763, it was occupied by Christopher
Starbuck. Tristram Starbuck had eight children, viz. :
Phoebe and Mary (twins), Christopher, Charles, Eliza-
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 219
beth, and Lydia, the mother of Mrs. Tobey, two others
having died early.
The house, now standing, is a two-story lean-to,
which might indicate a later age, but some of the pe-
culiarities of the east end render it possible that this
section was built, wherever it came from, soon after
1700.
The Caleb Gardner house, behind the present resi-
dence of John C. Gardner, at the head of Main Street,
is particularly worthy of notice, especially as it is in
some respects unique. It is now used as a carriage
house, and each side is flanked by a lean-to of com-
paratively modern construction. John C. Gardner has
a careful record of the house in his possession, estab-
lishing the fact that it was erected in 1699 by Caleb
Gardner, son of Joseph Gardner.
The house itself was a two-story lean-to, the northern
roof sloping down to the lower story in the rear, as usual,
the front door being in the eastern aspect of the south-
ern front. The stairs faced the door, and at the front
of the door — the original framework of which is in situ
— is a well-worn red-sandstone doorstone. The chim-
ney, which has been removed, was, contrary to custom,
on the east end, and the brick fireplace, which was
quadrilateral, was about ten feet square. The latter
has also been removed.
Each story was occupied by one large room ; the walls
were filled with clay, and clam-shell mortar has been
used throughout. The framing of the house is un-
usually strong and well-finished, and the brackets on
lower story are, curiously enough, nicely rounded with
a shoulder upon which the crossbeam, which runs
north and south, securely rests. The west end was
girt with cedar shingles, which, for the most part, re-
220 Nantucket
main in their original positions, but have been rendered
very thin by long exposure.
Some time ago, surrounding the house for a distance
of about three feet from the walls, a pavement of cobble-
stones was found about six inches below the surface of
the ground, and was continued from the east end of the
house by a causeway leading to a well, which was
distinguished for the purity of its water, and was much
esteemed in the neighborhood. This house is remark-
able as affording conflicting evidences of an earlier and
a later date than has been assigned to it, and forms a
very interesting study.
So far as the writer has been enabled to ascertain,
this concludes the list of the earliest houses built in
Nantucket which still remain to some extent; but it is
fair to assume that many ancient and historic houses
were destroyed by the calamitous fire of 1846, which,
beginning about the middle of Main Street, in the shop
of W. H. Geary, on the 13th of July, destroyed over
three hundred buildings, covering about thirty-six
acres, representing about one-third of the town, and
involving a loss of over $900,000,
After the removal of the town from Wannacomet,
during the first quarter of the eighteenth century, ex-
tensive building took place at Nantucket, but instead
of the one or one-and-a-half-story houses of the earlier
period, the houses erected were almost uniformly two
stories in front, sloping down to one in the rear, and
these are still characteristic of perhaps the majority of
the present town residences. A little later, two-story
houses in front and rear became the prevailing type,
and many of these may be seen throughout the town.
The Major Josiah Coffin house on the Cliff is a perfect
and most beautiful example of the post-removal houses,
Some Early Dwellings in Nantucket 221
and was built in 1724. Many others might be cited,
but space forbids.
The Paddock house on Sunset Hill (now occupied
by Calloway), although apparently much older, must
also be relegated to about the same period, or a few
years earlier.
The Reuben Joy homestead, on Monument Square,
until about five years ago, bore a tablet indicating that
the house was built "about 1700," but it was probably
erected some years later.
There is a dilapidated barn on Gull Island which
looks very old, but was built probably at the time of
the Thomas Gardner house in the same locality — the
latter also a fine example of the "after 1720" period.
The Zaccheus Macy house is still standing at 99
Main Street, and probably represents the middle of the
eighteenth century. Another house, at i Vestal Street,
although not built until 1790, is peculiarly interesting
as having been the birthplace of Maria Mitchell, the
distinguished astronomer, born in August, 181 8.
The house is now the property of the Maria Mitchell
Memorial Association, and contains the astronomer's
library, telescopes, etc. The association has built a
modern observatory in the grounds. ^
Few localities possess more interesting houses within
a similar superficies than "the little purple island,"
and, if space permitted, many more examples might be
added.
' Vide Chapter XII.
CHAPTER XII
EMINENT NANTUCKETERS
The galaxy of intelligence representing the offspring
of the little island of Nantucket has not been siirpassed
either in luminosity or numerically by any other place
of the same size in the United States; and in a survey
of human progress and knowledge there is not a depart-
ment which is not either directly or indirectly repre-
sented by some of those claiming Nantucket as their
fostering birthplace. Science, literature, art, theology,
invention, commerce, rhetoric, philanthropy, diplo-
macy, statesmanship, navigation, the learned profes-
sions, the military and naval services, pedagogy, and,
in addition, all that goes to crown the purity, dignity,
and surpassing worth of noble womanhood, have sent
their votaries from this freedom-hallowed spot to work
in the cause of human progress, to achieve national
distinction and reputation, and to reflect unsullied
honor upon the place of their nativity.
A brief epitome of some of their lives and attainments,
amounting to little more than a mere enumeration,
must here suffice. Place aux dames!
Maria Mitchell. On the roll of Nantucket's illus-
trious women none stands higher than Maria Mitchell,
the accomplished astronomer. The third child of
Eminent Nantucketers 223
William and Lydia (Coleman) Mitchell, she was born
at Nantucket on August i, 181 8, the family being birth-
right members of the Society of Friends. Her youth
was spent mainly in assisting her mother in domestic
duties, and in helping her father, a distinguished mathe-
matician, by such aid as she could give him in his -scien-
tific studies. While still little more than a school-girl,
she became the librarian of the Nantucket Athenaeum,
a position which she efficiently filled for twenty years.
During her spare time she devoted herself to study,
and supplemented her income by making calculations
for the United States Nautical Almanac, the joint work of
her father and herself for many years. On October i,
1847, she was awarded a gold medal for the discovery
of a new comet, about five degrees from the North Star.
Becoming known as an expert in astronomy, the savants
of the world gladly hailed her as one of themselves,
while the positions held by her father as one of the
Board of Trustees of Harvard, and a member of Gover-
nor Briggs's Council, constituted her a persona grata.
among the highest literary and scientific circles of New
England. In the following year, she was elected a
Fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences,
an honor which she was the first of her sex to obtain.
In 1857, she visited Europe where she made many
friends among those distinguished in science and art.
In 1 861, she was appointed Professor of Astronomy and
Director of the Observatory at Vassar College, received
her first degree of LL.D. from Hanover in 1853, and
her last from Columbia in 1887. She resigned her
appointment after twenty-three years' valuable and
much appreciated work, and the Trustees unanimously
elected her Professor Emerita. She was also offered a
home for life in the observatory, but this she declined,
224 Nantucket
and passed away peacefully at Lynn (where she had
removed with her father, after her mother's death),
on June 28, 1889, highly honored and respected by all
who had known her. Her old home at i Vestal Street,
still constitutes a Mecca for visitors, and in the house
is now installed a flourishing institution known as the
Maria Mitchell Memorial Association, — a well equipped
establishment for scientific inquiry and culture. It
contains an excellent reference library, a research
fellowship, and General Science Committee, in addi-
tion to an Observatory Committee and numerous
managerial committees, while the various rooms are
devoted to branches of natural science, and contain
manifold specimens and illustrations connected with
each. In the room set apart for astronomical science
is the 3-inch Dolland telescope with which Miss
Mitchell discovered, in 1847, the comet which was
named for her.
A memorial observatory was built by subscription,
after her death, and was dedicated on July 15, 1908.
This is situated at the northern side of her birthplace.
It is a square mosque-like building of brick, with a
revolving dome on the top which, by means of appro-
priate machinery, can be opened at any angle for astro-
nomical purposes. The interior contains a convenient
gallery, Miss Mitchell's scientific library, and the
telescope which was presented to her, in i860, b}' Miss
Peabody on behalf of the women of America,
The genial and courteous Curator and Librarian of
the Memorial Association, INIrs. Benjamin Albertson,
— a cousin of the distinguished astronomer, — fulfils
the duties of her appointment much to the gratification
of her numerous visitors.
Miss Mitchell was a great as well as a good woman,
Eminent Nantucketers 225
and her star still gleams brightly in the firmament of
science.
Lucretia Mott. Lucretia Mott, daughter of Thomas
and Anna Coffin, was born on Nantucket, January 3,
1793, and died near Philadelphia, November 11, 1880,
in her 88th year. A long life but nobly lived; an ideal
type of pure womanhood distinguished by many vir-
tues, an all-pervading force for good, characterized by
lofty intelligence, genuine philanthropy, and sublime
spiritual fervor, a magnetic personality which attracted
and never repelled, and a sweet voice which expressed
itself only in golden words.
Such was Lucretia Mott, moral reformer, abolitionist,
humanitarian, as noble a woman as any country ever
produced, and the first woman in America to advocate
f empale suffrage. As a direct descendant of the Folger
and Coffin strain, she inherited nothing that was not
beneficent. Educated in Boston, and subsequently in
New York State, she ultimately lived with her parents
in Philadelphia, where, at the age of eighteen, she mar-
ried James Mott, in whom she met her hallowed affinity,
and brought up a family of five children with exemplary
care and maternal affection. She became an eminent
minister of the Society of Friends, an eloquent moral
reformer, a profound and active sympathizer with
human suffering irrespective of class or creed, and she
has been happily described as "The bright morning
star of intellectual freedom in America." Who
can estimate the beneficent influences of such a life?
Can time or death destroy them? A thousand
times No! For they are linked with divineness and
immortality.
Abiah Folger was the only child of Peter Folger born
at Nantucket, as "his two sons and other six daughters
226 Nantucket
were born at Martha's Mneyard previous to his arrival " *
on the more southern island. She was born August 15,
1667, and died in Boston about 1752. By her marriage
to Josiah Franklin, she became the mother of the phi-
losopher, statesman, diplomatist, and author, Benjamin
Franklin, who very rightly attributed whatever of
character he developed and whatever success he achieved
to his mother's influence. What could even the Gracchi
have accomplished without the qualities transmitted
by their gifted mother, Cornelia? Very few details of
Mrs. Franklin's life have been handed down; but she
is known to have had exceptional force of character, and
to have been a most worthy and excellent mother and
wife. Defective perhaps in the graces of cultured
intelligence, she was, nevertheless, apparently of that
class of women, frequently typified by the early colonial
mothers of New England, which was characterized by
distinctive qualities of head and heart, pervasive whole-
souled excellence, and strong common-sense, fortified
by a strong sense of duty and a never-failing trust in
Providence. Be this as it may, her motherhood was
honored in the birth of her distinguished son, and
Nantucket is proud to acknowledge her as one of her
own beloved daughters. The vital force of both
mother and son was undoubtedly transmitted by that
sturdy old pioneer, Peter Folger; for breeding tells,
and without it the nations of the earth would soon
become degenerate.
Her tombstone in the old Granary Burying Ground
in Boston is still standing and the inscription thereon
may be read by the passer-by on Tremont Street. The
Nantucket Chapter of the D. A. R. is named "Abiah
Folger Chapter."
' W. C. Folger.
Eminent Nantucketers 22^
Mary Starbuck " (The Great Woman)." Although
not de facto born in Nantucket, she was the mother of
the first white child born on the island, and as one of
the earliest and most influential of the settlers, — the
daughter of Tristram and Dionis Coffin — and perhaps
the most gifted of them all, she was long regarded as
the mother of the settlement, and Nantucket is only
too proud to regard her as an adopted daughter. She
was married at an early age to Nathaniel Starbuck, son
of Edward and Katherine Starbuck, virtually spent her
life among the islanders, and died upon the island. The
Starbuck family in America trace its descent from this
well assorted pair. Mary Starbuck was, indeed, a
remarkably gifted woman, surpassing most in adminis-
trative ability, and second to none in soundness of
judgment and general intellectual capacity. In every
political, social, and domestic movement she took a
leading part, and no public meeting was considered
representative without her. She was, moreover, an
easy, eloquent speaker with a silvery tongue, and her
arguments were as logical as convincing, while her
diction was persuasive and elegant.
At a later period, when she became interested in the
Society of Friends, she was not only their most cele-
brated preacher, but took the religious interests of the
entire island into her care and keeping. The islanders
hung upon her every word, and were proud to consult
her on every question concerning their welfare and
happiness whether as individuals or as the people of the
island, for they knew her worth, trusted her, and were
devoted to her.
Indeed, the island sustained an irreparable loss when
she passed away on February 2, 1719.
" Miriam " (Keziah) Coffin has achieved her niche in
221
Nantucket
general as well as in local history. She was an extra-
ordinary woman; and although some of the means she
adopted to make money were rather questionable,
she succeeded, and herein her power was exemplified.
The strength of her character was manifested in mer-
cantile pursuits, and she became not only the proprietor
of a splendid town-house, on the west side of Center
Street, between Pearl and Hussey Streets, which she
built in 1770, and a country house at Quaise, but an ex-
tensive shipowner, with her ships on every sea. She
was the heroine of Colonel Hart's historical novel en-
titled Miriam Coffin; or, The Whale Fisherman. She was
charged and tried for smuggling at Watertown, and
was suspected of having rendered aid to the British
during the Revolutionary War. The late Mr. Sanford
wrote of her: "She was a famous smuggler in her day,
as can be found by the Colonial Records in Boston."
That she had a mind capable of directing such risky
enterprises proves her to have been a woman of more
than average courage and ability, but it would have
been more satisfactory if her talents had been utilized
in some more worthy direction. As in most such cases,
however, she was "found out," and her speculative
tendencies shrivelled up. She ended her career by
falling down stairs, which caused her death on May
29, 1798.
Her maiden name was Keziah Folger and she married
John Coffin. She was born on Nantucket, October 9,
1723.
Phebe A. Hanaford. Mrs. Hanaford was born in
the delightful village of Siasconset, on May 6, 1829.
She is lineally descended from Tristram Coffin and
Peter Folger, an inheritance dear to every Nantucketer.
She received her primary education at Nantucket,
Eminent Nantucketers 229
where she also received tuition from a private tutor.
She is the daughter of G. W. and Phebe Ann (Barnard)
Coffin, and early in life taught in the Friends' School
on Fair Street, now the Historical Association. She
married at an early age, and, between 1868 and 1874,
she became a pastor of the Universalist Church at three
places successively. She is a very effective speaker with
a sweet, well-modulated voice, and has been very
popular in her ministry: but it is in her auctorial ca-
pacity that she reveals her real power, as is well exempli-
fied in her well-known books. Women of the Century,
and the lives of George Peabody and Abraham Lincoln.
Here in one sense she is at her best, and some of her
poems and other works reached a circulation of 20,000
copies.
It is in her own beautiful home, however, that she
reigns as "The Angel in the House." Surrounded
with her many books, pictures, and articles of vertu,
and in the presence of a few choice friends, she shines
to the greatest advantage. Her charming face and
sweet voice, with her amiable disposition and gentle
manner, constitute a personality that, to be loved,
has only to be seen, and once seen could never be
forgotten. She is, indeed, a gentlewoman in the highest
sense, and the memories of her long life must be as
fragrant as spring flowers.
Anna Gardner was bom in Nantucket, January 25,
18 16. She was the daughter of Oliver and Hannah
Macy Gardner, became a great abolitionist and or-
ganized a remarkable anti-slavery meeting in Nantucket
when she was twenty-five years of age. At this con-
vention Frederick Douglass made his first oration as
an abolitionist speaker.
After the Civil War, Miss Gardner journeyed through
230 Nantucket
several of the Southern States, lecturing to the freed
slaves, among whom she remained until 1878.
She was an ardent reformer, a staunch supporter of
women's rights, and the author of several volumes in
prose and verse. She died in Nantucket, February 18,
1891.
The Rev. Louise S. Baker, daughter of Captain
Arvin and Jerusha Baker, was born at Nantucket,
October 17, 1846, and was educated in the Nantucket
schools. For nearly eight years she was the pastor of
the North Congregational Church, from December 12,
1880, to February 14, 1888, and it is stated that "during
her ministry she attracted the largest congregation
ever known in the church." She was not only an able
preacher, but a distinguished lecturer, and "a prolific
writer of graceful verse." A volume of her poems was
published in 1893 and was well received. While her
many accomplishments were highly appreciated, her
charming personality made her, indeed, a beloved
daughter of the island.
It must not, however, be thought that the few ex-
amples just given exhaust the list of Nantucket's
eminent women. Many more might be cited, but these
will serve as types, as will those of the men that
follow, and will, it is hoped, prove that Nantucket
has not been wanting in either beauty of character or
intellectual capacity.
Charles James Folger. The distingmshed subject of
this sketch was bom at Nantucket in 18 18, graduated
from Hobart College when eighteen years of age, was
admitted to the bar in 1839, and became a prominent
jurist and politician. In 1844, he was appointed Judge
of the Ontario County Court of Common Pleas ; in 1851 ,
Judge of Ontario County; and in 1861 he was elected
Eminent Nantucketers 231
to the New York State Senate. He was Judge of the
New York Court of Appeals, 1871-81, and became
Secretary of the United States Treasury under President
Arthur, 1881-84. In 1882, he was defeated as can-
didate for Governor of New York by Grover Cleveland,
and this defeat ended his political career, although he
held his appointment as United States Treasurer until
1884, when he died.
It has been well said of him: "He was the ablest
State Senator since Seward's time, and maintained
himself in that trying position without encountering
a breath of reproach. He was never classed as any
man's man." Such testimony is creditable to his
official attainments and integrity; but behind all was
the uncompromising sense of right and justice, the
unalienable principles of a sublime selfhood, which
never swerved from honesty of purpose, and which,
ever actuating him in the discharge of every duty, were
as exalted as they were incorruptible.
"Walter Folger, Jr., the famous astronomer and mathe-
matician, was also a Nantucketer, born on the island June
12, 1765. Although generally recognized as an illustri-
ous and versatile genius, he was, nevertheless, almost en-
tirely self-taught. Restricted by no school or college
routine, but always observant, ever studious, his Protean
natural gifts enabled him to excel in many directions.
He became an expert mechanic, a profound mathema-
tician, as well as an accomplished scientist.
As a lawyer, a jurist, and a statesman he also won
unequivocal distinction. Of his many other attain-
ments the late W. C. Folger thus wrote of him:
He acted as surveyor of land, repaired watches, clocks,
and chronometers, made compasses, engraved on copper
22)2 Nantucket
and other metals, made several chemical and other scientific
discoveries, calculated eclipses, and understood and spoke
the French language. ^
In addition to all these acquirements, he studied
medicine, became a justice of the Court of Sessions, a
member of both branches of the State Legislature, and
represented the Nantucket district of Massachusetts
for four years in the United States Congress.
He was, moreover, a man of exalted character, excep-
tionally upright and honorable amid all the circum-
stances of his life, through which he passed with an
irreproachable reputation. Surely such a man was an
honor to any place, or to any country, and Nantucket
honors him as one of her sons of whom she is proud,
and whose birth within her sea-girt domain has honored
her.
He died on Nantucket, September 12, 1849.
William and Henry Mitchell, father and son, shared
with one another the pride of being, respectively, the
father and brother of Maria Mitchell, the famous
astronomer. Quite apart from this distinction, both
were men of light and leading, each in his own sphere
distinguished and pre-eminent. William Mitchell's
father having suffered pecuniary loss by the failure of
the whale fishery, his son was prevented, when a young
man, from entering Harvard, as he had intended. He
was, however, a well-read man, with a cultivated scien-
tific mind, and became master of the first free-school
established in Nantucket in 1827. By temperament,
disposition, and accomplishments he was remarkably
well constituted for teaching, and he loved the work of
' For a description of the marvelous astronomical clock, invented
and made by Mr. Folger, the reader is referred to Chapter XIX.
Eminent Nantucketers 233
imparting knowledge as he loved the pupils whom he
taught ; and he thus won their confidence and affection
in return. He was modest and retiring, but was re-
markably tender-hearted and affectionate, and his
love for his own family was, perhaps, the greatest joy
of his existence. With all his reticence he was a very
scholarly man, and his attainments as a scientist were
of a very high order, while his lectures on scientific
subjects were always regarded as an intellectual treat.
After teaching for a few years, his health failed, and
he became Secretary of the Phoenix Marine Insurance
Co., and, later. Cashier of the Pacific Bank. He re-
mained, with great credit to himself, in the latter posi-
tion until the lamented death of his wife in 1861, when
he and his daughter removed to Lynn, where they lived
until Maria was appointed Professor of Astronomy at
Vassar College. During the previous thirty or forty
years in Nantucket he had acted as President of the
Athenaeum, had been a member of the State Senate,
and for several years was a member of Governor
Briggs's Council. He had also served as Chairman of
the Observatory Committee at Harvard, and was for
a number of years an overseer of Harvard Universitj^
He was, moreover, frequently in correspondence, on
questions and observations connected with astron-
omy, with the savants of Europe and America, in-
cluding the Astronomer-Royal of England and Sir
John Herschel. All who knew him loved and respected
him.
His last years were spent in quietude and comfort
with his beloved daughter at Vassar College, where he
died peacefully in April, 1869. The following expres-
sions from a Poughkeepsie paper voice the grief that
was felt at Vassar, for his loss :
234 Nantucket
To the younger members of our little community Mr.
Mitchell was like an affectionate grandfather, to the older
ones a much loved father; and there is not a home in New-
England, in the North, or in the South . . . but will feel
that in his death it has lost a very dear friend. What
Abraham Lincoln was to our country, William Mitchell
was to us.
He was interred in the Friends' burying ground at
Nantucket on April 22, 1869.
His son, Henry Mitchell, followed in the footsteps
of his father and sister. He was an assistant in the
Coast Survey where he made a world-wide reputation,
and was a member of the American Academy of Arts
and Sciences.
The Rev. Ferdinand C. Ewer, D.D., was well known
and highly esteemed throughout America, not only as
a theologian but as a litterateur and a scientist.
He was bom at Nantucket, May 22, 1826, and was
always proud of his birthplace, in the welfare of which
he was much interested. As a clergyman he belonged
to the Episcopal Church, and was the author of numer-
ous works more or less of a polemical character, in
which he displayed notable scholarship and a cultured
literary style. He was a graduate of Harvard of the
Class of 1848. Before his ordination he was engaged
in literary pursuits, and officiated as editor of a news-
paper and a literary magazine. He was ordained, in
1857, by Bishop Kip and succeeded him as rector,
having obtained priest's orders early in January, 1858.
Two years later, his health failing, he went to New York
where he became assistant to Dr. Gallaudet and was
subsequently called to the rectorship of Christ's Church.
Finally he became Rector of St. Ignatius' Church, New
Eminent Nantucketers 235
York, — a position which he occupied for a number of
years with much success.
He was an effective preacher and a good adminis-
trator, and every aspect of his character was distin-
guished by force, individuaUty, and pervasive geniality.
He was, indeed, a man of exceptional culture and varied
attainments, and was ranked as a competent geologist
as well as an accomplished civil engineer. He made a
special study of the geology and topography of Nan-
tucket, and his map of the island is remarkable for
exactitude of detail and artistic delineation. Much
esteemed and lamented he died suddenly in his fifty-
eighth year at Montreal, when preaching in the Church
of St. John the Evangelist in that city.
Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin,Bart., was a distinguished son
of Massachusetts and of direct descent from Tristram
Coffin, Nantucket's first Chief Magistrate. Although
not actually bom on Nantucket Island, he loved it as
the mother of his race, and, during a visit in 1826,
acknowledged his kinship and alliance, by founding and
endowing the well-known school which bears his name.
The mere accident of birth cannot, therefore, justifiably
preclude him from the fellowship of those representing
the illustrious sons and daughters of the island.
From the Life of Tristram Coffin,'^ it appears that
Isaac Coffin was the son of Nathaniel and Elizabeth
Coffin, and was bom in Boston, Mass., May 16, 1759.
He entered the English Navy in 1773; was commis-
sioned Lieutenant in 1778, Captain 1781, Rear- Admiral
of the White in 1804, when he also obtained a baronetcy ;
became Vice- Admiral in 1808, and Admiral in 1817.
He died at Cheltenham, England, in 1839, aged eighty
years, and without issue.
^ By Men Coffin, LL.B.
236 Nantucket
At the time of his being created a baronet he was
granted an estate at the mouth of the St. Lawrence
River, known as the Magdalen Islands. He was a
personal friend of the Diike of Clarence who, when he
became King William IV, continued to show him
favor, and wished to create him Earl of Magdalen.
The ministers objected, however, on the ground of his
strong attachment to his native country. They cited
especially his fitting out of a vessel with Yankee lads
from his Lancastrian School at Nantucket to make
master-mariners of them. This could not be viewed
in England with favor; so it may in truth be said that
the Cofhn School at Nantucket cost the Admiral an
earldom, and came near sacrificing his baronetcy. ^
Captain George Wiliiam Coffin, U. S. N., was a dis-
tinguished Nantucketer who was bom on the island
December 22, 1845. He joined the U. S. Navy on
December 20, i860, and worked his way up steadily
through the lower grades until September 27, 1893,
when he was appointed Captain. The following notes
are taken from a biographical sketch of his career.
In 1863, he was assigned to the U. S. sloop Ticonderoga,
of the North Atlantic blockading squadron, serving in
both attacks (1864-65) on Fort Fisher and subsequently
had a long and honorable career.
Captain Coffin was always a brave and efficient
officer, who earned his promotion by hard and constant
routine service. He was on sea duty sixteen years
ten months; on shore duty for an equal period; on
leave and waiting orders four years eleven months,
making a total of thirty-eight years six months twenty-
six days. In December, 1866, he was married to Mary
' A fine portrait in oil of Sir Isaac, by Sir Wm. Beechey, graces the
walls of the Coffin School.
Eminent Nantucketers 237
S. Cartwrlght, of Nantucket. She died in 1893, one
daughter, the wife of Dr. Anderson, surviving."'^ Cap-
tain Coffin passed away at Yokohama June 16, 1899,
just as his long service and fidelity to duty were about
to be rewarded by his promotion to the rank of Admiral.
William Hussey Macy. It was vouchsafed to but
a very few of all the thousands of sterling Nantucket
men who participated in those stirring scenes which
were enacted by the American whalemen ' ' around Cape
Horn" in the early half of the nineteenth century to be
able, in after years, with unfailing memory and facile
pen, to re-enact those scenes and make them live again
for the entertainment and information of others. Chief
among these few, perhaps, was the subject of this brief
sketch, and it may safely be said that no one has thus
done more to ensure and perpetuate the fame of his
native isle, or left a more graphic and enduring record
of the distinctive type of industry which contributed
so much to its early prosperity and high repute.
Born on the island May 18, 1826, a direct descendant,
in the seventh generation, from the first settler, Thomas
Macy, he was reared in the faith of the Friends. At
the age of thirteen, he was attending high school, work-
ing in a grocery store between sessions, and teaching
in an evening school — many of his pupils being older
than himself. But Fate never intended him for a
pedagogue. The love of the sea, inherited from genera-
tions of mariners, and fostered by an environment
reeking with salt and tar, was too strong to be resisted
by one of his lively and romantic imagination, so in
the autumn of 1841, at the age of fifteen, we find him
sailing before the mast in the new ship Potomac, of
Nantucket, Isaac B. Hussey, master, for a sperm whal-
' Sea-girt Nantucket, by courtesy of H. S. Wyer.
238 Nantucket
ing voyage to the Pacific, which lasted nearly four years.
His private journal of this voyage is a model of its
kind, and a document of rare and unusual interest,
filled with his youthful impressions of the life and of
the places visited, depicted with both pen and brush
in a manner scarcely to be credited in one of his years
and previous advantages.
Returning in 1845, he apprenticed himself to a cooper
for eighteen months, mastered the trade, and shipped
again in '47, commanding a cooper's "lay," which,
being one of the best, next to that of the captain and
first officer, doubtless justified the "lost time" ashore.
During the next ten years, as cooper, second officer, and
mate, he made three complete voyages, on the return
from the last of which, in 1857, he married Phebe Ann
Winslow, of Nantucket, and for the next two years
worked at his trade ashore.
But times were hard just then, at Nantucket, so
in 1859 he was again at sea, this time as mate of a
brig on a sea-elephant oil voyage to Kurd's Island on
the edge of the Antarctic. This proved a "broken
voyage," the ship was sold in a foreign port, and he
worked his way home, arriving in 1861 poorer than
when he set sail.
The Civil War having broken out, he enlisted, went
south with the 45th Massachusetts Infantry, which
contained many Nantucket men, saw active service in
Gen. Burnside's campaign in North Carolina, and re-
ceived a bad gunshot wound in the leg at the battle of
Kinston, December 14, 1862, which incapacitated him
for further service. After eight weeks in hospital he
received his discharge, and during the next few years
was located at Philadelphia and Boston, working at
coopering or whatever came to hand.
Eminent Nantucketers 239
Returning to Nantucket in 1869, he was elected to
the office of Register of Deeds for the county, and
his wanderings were over. For twenty-two years,
thereafter, until his death in 1891, he faithfully per-
formed the duties of his office to the satisfaction of
all.
In 1874, his eyesight began to fail, the trouble being
an atrophy of the optic nerves, and, though the best
specialists were consulted and everything possible done
to avert the calamity, in a little over a year he became
totally blind. His devoted wife died at about the same
time, in 1875, and he was left with a family of five young
children to support and educate. And bravely did he
perform the task. For fear of any possible legal com-
plications, should the question of a blind man's fitness
for such an office ever be raised, he formally resigned
his position, and one of his friends (the late Andrew
M. Myrick) was elected as the legal incumbent of the
office. But the work was done, as before, by or under
the direction of Mr. Macy, with a hired assistant, and
that it was well done the records themselves, as well as
the hundreds of deeds and other instruments drafted
from his dictation, amply attest.
Were this the whole story of the life of this remarkable
man, interesting though it might be as an example of
duty well performed and difficulties met and overcome,
it might hardly prove worthy of a place in this book,
but his particular contribution to the history of his
native island is yet to be chronicled.
From the days of his early voyages he had displayed
an unusual gift for narrating the stories of his adven-
tures, and while still in the twenties, with no other
preparation than has been herein set down, he had
found publishers for many of them. During the fifties
240 Nantucket
and sixties, his whaling "yarns" and stories of the sea
had found favor with many readers of the old Ballou's
Monthly Magazine, The Flag of Our Union, Capt.
Mayne Reid's Onward Magazine, The True Flag, and
other periodicals, and many of these stories had been
reprinted in the Nantucket Mirror, and later in the
Inquirer and Mirror.
Upon the approach of his blindness he felt the need
of some method of continuing his literary work, and
after examining all the appliances then known enabling
the blind to write, and finding them all inadequate to
his purpose, he invented a machine of his own, which
he called his "blmd writer," and with this he turned
out thousands of pages of fairly legible manuscript,
continuing to delight a host of readers for many years
thereafter.
His best known work. There She Blows; or, The Log
of the " Arethusa,'' published at Boston by Lee Shep-
ard about 1878, has been called a classic in the annals
of whaling, and it remains to-day perhaps the best
all-round story of a whaling voyage which has ever
been published. Other works of some length were Up
North in the ''Gorgon,'' a story of a "right" whaling
voyage in the Arctic, and Beyond Desolation, which
describes the sea-elephant catching in the Antarctic.
Scores of shorter stories from his pen were printed at
various times and places during a period of some thirty
years or more, and one book of poems Here and There
in Verse, was published at Nantucket in 1877.
For many years his "leaders," covering a wide range
of subjects and appearing weekly in the Nantucket
Inquirer and Mirror, were eagerly looked for and read
by his fellow-townsmen, and were widely quoted in
the metropolitan journals of the day. This was also
Eminent Nantucketers 241
true of many of his fugitive verses, mostly of a humorous
nature, some of them gems of spontaneous wit and
satire.
He died at Nantucket March, 1891, in his sixty-fifth
year, and was widely and sincerely mourned by all who
had known him in life,
A fairly complete collection of his writings may be
found in the library of the Perkins Institution for the
Blind at Boston.
Lieut.-Col. John W. Smmnerhayes, son of the late
William and Lydia Wyer Summerhayes, was born on
Nantucket, January 6, 1835. He was a member of
the Loyal Legion and of the Grand Army and had served
four years in a regiment of Massachusetts volunteers
at an early period of his career. For twenty-two years
he was a lieutenant in the U. S. Army, serving through
Indian campaigns and wild life on the frontiers. At
one time, he was with General Stanley, Commander of
the Department of Texas, at Fort Sam Houston during
the first preliminary survey of the Northern Pacific
Railway. Finally, he was raised to the rank of Lieu-
tenant-Colonel, in deserved recognition of his sterling
qualities as a man and as a soldier.
Col. Summerhayes was a typical soldier. He had
much decision of character, and an uncompromising
repugnance towards anything that was not straight-
forward; at the same time he was the most genial and
companionable of men, and had a keen sense of humor
which made him beloved by all who came into contact
with him.
Fortunately his noteworthy and checkered experi-
ences during many years in the West have been vividly
portrayed in Vanished Arizona, a most interesting
narrative written by his brave and gifted wife, who
16
242 Nantucket
was his companion and helpmeet amid all his perilous
services.
He passed away at Nantucket, on March 8, 191 1,
and his body is interrred in Arlington Cemetery, Wash-
ington, D. C.
Seth Mitchell Ackley, late Rear Admiral, U. S. N.,
was bom at Nantucket, October 13, 1845. He was
appointed midshipman October 6, 1862. He served
in regular order until October 25, 1901, when with the
rank of Captain, he was retired for physical disability.
He was reinstated, according to the Act of Congress,
in April, 1904, and promoted to Captain on the active
list.
He was promoted to Rear Admiral February, 1907,
and died in Washington, February 7, 1908.
Born on the island of Nantucket of seafaring an-
cestors, and bred in that home of hardy and adventur-
ous seamen (his father a sea-captain, with whom as a
boy he had made a voyage to California), he was sin-
gularly well-prepared for the Navy, which he entered
with enthusiasm.
An examination of his official record shows that not
only was his actual sea-duty extensive and varied, but
that, when given "shore-duty," his scientific and pro-
fessional bent led him to the Coast Survey, the Naval
Observatory, torpedo duty, the Naval War College,
the Hydrographic Office, and lighthouse duty.
The confidence shown in him by his seniors was
evidenced by their giving him, at various times, the
highly important position of Hydrographic Inspector
of the U. S. Coast Survey, and of Naval Secretary of
the Lighthouse Board.
All his life, in whatever position placed, from Mid-
shipman to Rear- Admiral, at all times and places, as
Eminent Nantucketers 243
classmate, messmate, shipmate, friend, or acquaint-
ance, he was faithful, upright, and just. The keynote
of Seth Mitchell Ackley's life was a single-hearted
devotion to his duty, as an officer and a gentleman; his
reward was the affection and esteem of all who knew
him.
It is not generally known, nor is it recorded in the
files of the Navy Department, that Admiral Ackley,
when a lieutenant, nobly risked his life, in 1873, in
trying to save a seaman who had fallen overboard from
his ship, the Omaha. The Lieutenant, divesting him-
self of his coat and shoes, plunged in after him, in a
rolling sea infested with man-eating sharks, and only
after considerable difficulty was he himself saved when
two miles away from his ship. The poor fellow, whom
Lieutenant Ackley so bravely tried to save, was in-
jured by striking the rail of the ship in falling, and,
probably thus rendered unconscious, soon sank in
the deep to rise no more.
Such an act as this assuredly merited public recogni-
tion, if not the bestowal of a gold medal, but the hero's
own sense of duty well-performed was the only reward
forthcoming for such an heroic act.
Admiral Ackley is buried on Nantucket within
sound of the sea he loved, on the island which was the
dearest spot of earth to him.
Among many others that deserve notice as "Eminent
Nantucketers" may be mentioned the names of Dr.
Zaccheus Macy, Dr. Arthur Elwell Jenks, the gentle
idealist, poet, and artist; Dr. Joseph Sidney Mitchell;
Owen C. Spooner, Samuel Haynes Jenks, Alfred Macy,
Roland H. Macy, William Francis Barnard, Reuben
Chase, William Rotch, Reuben R. Pinkham, Colonel
244 Nantucket
Bray ton, and many others who have shed Hfe and lustre
over the island.
The limitations of space prevent the inclusion here
of any biographical details.
CHAPTER XIII
the nantucket flora
By Grace Brown Gardner
Islands have always been of particular interest to
botanists. Their boundaries being definite, it is com-
paratively easy to collect, classify, and arrange their
flora, a task much more difficult where one section or
country is separated from another by artificial boun-
daries only. Among islands, surely none has proved
more fascinating, not only to the amateur lover of
flowers, but also to the most scientific of botanists, than
has Nantucket. Small in area, but rich in the number
of its plant species, many of which are rare or entirely
unknown in the vicinity, the island has for many years
been a Mecca for botanists.
Mrs. Maria L. Owen, in her catalogue of Nantucket
plants, speaks of a "Frenchman, Marsillac, who nearly
a hundred years ago, regardless of his silk stockings,
plunged into the swamps for their floral treasures."
Since then William Oakes, Rev. Thomas Morong,
Pres. Hitchcock of Amherst, Mr. Loren L. Dame, F.
Schuyler Mathews, and Mrs. Nellie F. Flynn have
made collections of the island flora. At the present
time, Mr. Eugene P. Bicknell is publishing a most
245
246 Nantucket
interesting list of "The Ferns and Flowering Plants of
Nantucket," in the Bulletin of the Torrey Botanical
Club.
While Nantucket is only thirty miles from the main-
land, the nearness of the Gulf Stream modifies its
climate perceptibly. The temperature averages, by
several degrees, warmer in winter and cooler in summer
than on the adjacent mainland. Many people who
read of the occasional isolation of the island in the win-
ter, on account of ice blockades, do not reahze that it is
rarely the ice frozen in place which makes the trouble,
but drift ice from the shores north and west of Nan-
tucket. Such drift-ice is driven in this direction by the
prevailing northwest winds, and, owing to the peculiar
formation of the island, is caught and piled up between
Tuckernuck Island on the west and the arm of Great
Point on the east, thus blocking the northern coast
and harbor entrance.
The autumn season is especially mild, and it is not
uncommon to find garden plants continuing in bloom
well into December. This not only gives plants a long
growing season, and opportunity to ripen their seeds,
but, combined with the mildness of the winter, allows
plants to flourish here which can not stand the longer
and colder winters of the mainland. We thus find
Nantucket given in the botany as the northern limit
for several species of plants. Among them may be
noted the cactus {Opuntia vulgaris, Mill.), which is
found on Coatue, and from there south to South Caro-
lina. A species of bladderwort {Utricularia suhulata,
L.) has a range from Nantucket to New Jersey and
south. St. Peter's-wort {Ascyrum hypericoides, L.)
grows from Nantucket to southern Illinois, Nebraska
and southward.
The Nantucket Flora 247
The geological formation of the island has a direct
influence upon its flora. As the soil is mainly composed
of glacial drift, sand, pebbles, and occasional boulders,
and as there are no rock ledges whatever, we find a
marked absence of rock ferns, saxifrages, and other rock-
loving plants. Since Nantucket is an island at a con-
siderable distance from other land, some plants in the
course of years have come to differ slightly from the
same species elsewhere. Perhaps the most noteworthy
is our sabbatia [Sabhatia gracilis, (Michx.) Salisb.],
which varies from the type description in Gray's
Manual.
The tree-felling of the early settlers caused great
changes in the flora. The probability is that at the
time of the settlement of Nantucket, parts of the island
were rather heavily wooded. ^ Large trunks and roots
of trees have been found in peat swamps in various
parts of the island.^ It is a tradition that several
buildings now standing were built of native timber.^
Early deeds speak of timber and fuel wood, and old
wills bequeath wood lots. Names, as "Grove Lane,"
and "The Woods" still remain, though there are no
trees in the vicinity at present. That these woods were
quickly used up is shown by the fact that in a petition
to Sir Henry Clinton in 1 780, the petitioners represent
themselves as being "wholly destitute of firewood."'*
At present there are only a few pine and larch trees
which have been planted within recent times. Doubt-
less the wood plants common to this region were at one
^ Macy's History of Nantucket, pp. 25-26.
' Sarah Winthrop Smith, Nantucket : A Brief Sketch of its Physio-
graphy and Botany, p. 19.
3 The Congregational church vestry.
^ Macy's History of Nantucket, p. 117.
248 Nantucket
time found in the Nantucket woods. The destruction
of these woods probably caused the extinction of some
plants, as the trilliums, the rattlesnake plantains, and
the wood ferns. Other woodland species seem to be
slowly dying out. The goldthread [Coptis Irijolia
(L). Salisb.] which Mrs. Owen, in 1888, includes with-
out comment in her list of Nantucket plants, is an
example. No one has been able to find a trace of it
within late years, though diligent search has been
made. Still other wood plants have adapted themselves
to the changed environment. The pink lady's-slipper
{Cypripediiim acaule, Ait.), which is usually found in
woods, grows here on the open commons among the
reindeer moss and the mealy plum vines [Arctostaphylos
Uva-ursi (L.) Spreng.]. The Indian-pipe {Monoiropa
tiniflora, L.) grows in great profusion in similar environ-
ment, while the botany gives its habitat as "dark rich
woods."
The early system of land owning in common, and
the former extensive industry of sheep raising, also,
had marked influence upon the island plants. At the
time of the settlement of the island, all the land, except
such pieces as were set aside for homesteads, and de-
signated as "house-lot land," was held in common by
the twenty-seven original proprietors.^ For many
years, these "Commons" were used for sheep pastur-
age, being divided into several pastures which were
used in rotation, each man being allowed to pasture a
number of sheep proportionate to the number of
"Commons" he owned. The land being thus closely
grazed, the native plants were almost, if not completely,
exterminated, or grew only in places inaccessible to
sheep. As may be readily seen, such a system of land-
' Macy's History of Nantucket, chapter ii.
The Nantucket Flora 249
holding soon became full of complications. Since the
early settlers refused to have land set off to individuals,
shares were subdivided by inheritance to such an
extent as to make it practically impossible to determine
the ownership of much land. This land is unfenced,
and has never been cultivated. Since laws were
passed forbidding owners to allow sheep to run at large,
plants have had a chance to grow unchecked. The
result is an unusual luxuriance of growth. In the
latter part of May, the commons are blue with sheets
of bird-foot violets {Viola pedeta L.). Bluets {Hoiis-
tonia ccerulea L.) and a large variety of field chickweed
{Cerastium arvense L.) bloom at the same time, and
these three plants carpet the commons. The hudsonia,
or poverty grass {Hudsonia ericoides L. and H. tomen-
tosa Nutt.), a plant characteristic of poor soil, covers
acres with its tiny yellow blossoms in June. In July,
the poly gala {Poly gala polygama Walt.) is perhaps the
most conspicuous, its tiny pinkish flowers growing in
sandy soil and bordering the rutted roads. Its flowers
bear a superficial resemblance to the Scotch heather,
often deceiving summer visitors to whom the plant is
unfamiliar. In August, the golden aster [Chrysopsis
falcata (Pursh.) Ell.] takes its tiirn in beautifying the
commons with its cheery yellow blossoms. Although
the evergreen leaves of mealy plum [Ardostaphylos
Uva-ursi (L.) Spreng.] cover the ground throughout the
year, it is most noticeable during September, when its
red berries contrast so beautifully with its glossy green
leaves and the gray reindeer moss with which it is so
often associated. The floral display closes with the
goldenrods and asters which reach their perfection in
October, but last well into November. While all of
these plants are found on the adjacent mainland, they
250 Nantucket
are not found in such profusion, as our commons furnish
them with an unusually favorable environment.
Many peat swamps are found on the island, and, as
these were inaccessible to sheep and are unfit for cul-
tivation, they have never been disturbed. Here some
of our rarer plants reward the patient seeker. Among
them are the orchids, the arethusa {Arethusa hulhosa L.),
grass pink [Calopogoji pidchellus (Sw.) R.Br.], and adder's
mouth [Pogonia ophioglossoides (L.) Ker.], the white
fringed orchis [Habenaria blephiariglottis (Willd.) Torn],
and that rarest of all our orchids, the yellow orchis
[Habenaria ciliaris (L.) R. Br.]. The beautiful rose
pink sabbatia [Sabbatia gracilis (Michx.) Salisb.] borders
a few of our ponds. There are also found three varieties
of sundew, {Drosera rotundijolia L., D. longifolia L.,
and D.filijormis Raf .) , whichhave curious leaves covered
with glittering drops of a sticky substance to entrap
tiny insects. The pitcher plant {Sarracenia purpurea
L.), another insectivorous plant, is found in a few bogs,
as are many other beautiful and curious plants too
numerous to mention. Some of these plants, however,
are in danger of extinction at present, as a result of the
introduction of the cranberry industry, which makes
it profitable to clear and drain the formerly worthless
peat swamps. While we gladly welcome the new
industry in Nantucket, the botanist can hardly refrain
from feeling some regret at the passing of many of our
rare plants with the peat bogs which furnished them
with a suitable habitat.
Since the coast line of the island includes exposed
surf-beaten beaches, quiet harbors, and salt marshes,
we naturally expect a large variety of marine plants.
Besides the algae, which form a distinct branch of
botany, we find many beach plants, as dusty miller
The Nantucket Flora 251
(Artemisia Stelleriana Bess.), seaside spurge {Euphorbia
polygonifolia L.), saltwort {Salsola Kali L.), and beach
pea [Lathyriis maritimus (L.) Bigel.]. In the salt
marshes we find the marsh rosemary [Limonium Caro-
linianum (Walt.), Britton], the samphires {Salicornia
mucronata Bigel., S. europcEa L., and 6". amhigua Michx.),
which turn bright red in the fall, and add their ruddy-
tinge to the yellows and browns of the autumn marshes.
The hibiscus {Hibiscus Moscheutos L.) opens its great
rose-colored blossoms on the borders of brackish ponds,
and the rare centaury [Centaurium spicatum (L.) Fer-
nald] grows in similar localities.
Every year, new plants are appearing among our
Nantucket flora. IMany are introduced with grass
and vegetable seeds and appear as weeds in the grain
fields and gardens, while others occur as ballast weeds
on the wharves and waste places. The cow herb
{Saponaria Vaccaria L.) is one of these recent importa-
tions, and has been noted growing in fields of oats. It
has pink flowers, and is a near relative of the bouncing
Bet or bunch of keys {Saponaria officinalis L.) so
common in the lanes and streets in the outskirts of the
town. The Deptford pink {Dianthus Armaria L.) is
also a recent introduction, as are several other members
of the pink family. Among ballast weeds may be
noted the purple thorn apple {Datura Tatula L.) found
on one of the old wharves, and the hemp {Cannabis
sativa L.) , of which Mrs. Owen mentions two plants, is
now well established on the "dump" west of the town.
Many garden escapes have strayed far beyond the
town limits, among them the horehound {Alarrubium
vulgare L.), catnip {Nepcta Cataria L.), motherwort
Leonurus Cardiaca L.), spearmint {Mentliaspicata L.),
and peppermint {Mentha piperita L.). These were all
252 Nantucket
introduced from Europe by the early settlers because
of their medicinal qualities. Yarrow {Achillea Millie-
joliiim L.), tansy {Tanacetum vulgare L.), and boneset
{Eiipatorium perfoliatum L.) doubtless recall to the
minds of many dried bunches of herbs hanging in rows
from beams in the attic, ready to be brewed into bitter
teas for some unlucky victim.
The inhabitants of Nantucket very early deplored
the scarcity of wood on the island, and various attempts
at reforestation have been made. To these attempts
we owe the most noted of all our Nantucket plants, the
heathers. Among imported Scotch pines at Miacomet
we find the heather, or ling, [Calhina vulgaris (L).
Hull,], and a European heath {Erica Tetralix L.). For
many years, the locality of these two plants was a
jealously guarded secret, and as a consequence they
have been protected from ruthless picking, and, at
present, appear to be thoroughly well established.
New clumps are found each year, the plants gradually
spreading in an easterly direction, probably because
the seed is carried in that direction by the westerly
winds prevailing in summer. Unless, as hardly seems
probable, the blossoms are picked recklessly, or the
plants uprooted, the heather will remain a permanent
ornament to our island flora. A third species, the
rarest of all, the bell heather {Erica cinerea L.), is found
but in one place, the exact locality being known only
to a favored few.
This hasty survey of the Nantucket flora indi-
cates a few of the factors which have operated in making
it unique and of particular interest to lovers of wild
flowers. The problems presented here are fascinating,
and will repay most careful investigation. Of late
years, there has seemed to be an awakening of interest
The Nantucket Flora 253
in the subject of botany, and this science, instead of,
as formerly, being a matter of dry technicalities and
analytical keys, has, through the various wild-fiowers
books published in recent years, become of popular
interest. Surely, to those interested in "out of doors,"
there can be no more delightful or healthful way of
spending part of a vacation than in making the acquaint-
ance of new floral friends on what has been called "a
botanist's paradise."
The following list of Nantucket plants has been com-
piled from various sources. Many specimens named
are in the herbarium of the writer, others are in that of
the Nantucket Maria Mitchell Association, while still
others are plants which have been reported by various
botanists. A Catalogue of Plants Growing without Cul-
tivation in the County of Nantucket, Mass., published in
1888, b}^ Maria L. Owen, and " The Ferns and Flowering
Plants of Nantucket," by Eugene P. Bicknell, now ap-
pearing in the Bulletin of the Torrey Botanical Club, give
detailed information regarding the less common plants.
While there are doubtless errors, and certainly many
omissions in this list, it may be of interest to botanists,
and an aid in compiling a more complete and accurate
list of the Nantucket plants.
Nantucket Flora
Aspidium. Dicksonia
Boottii Tuckerm. punctilobula (Michx.) Gray
cristatum (L.) Sw. Onoclea
noveboracense (L.) Sw. sensibilis L.
simulatum Davenp. Polypodium
spinulosum (O. F. MuUer) Sw. vulgare L.
var. intermedium (Muhl.) Pteris
D. C. Eaton. aquilina L.
Thelypteris (L.) Sw. var. pseudocaudata Clute
Asplenium Woodwardia
Filix-femina (L.) Bernh. areolata (L.) Moore
254
Nantucket
Woodwardia — Continued
virginica (L.) Sm.
Osmunda
cinnamomea L.
Claytoniana L.
rcgalis L.
Botrychium
obliquum var. dissectum
(Spreng.) Clute
ternatum (Thunb.) Sw.,
var. intermedium D. C. Eaton
Ophioglossum
vulgatum L.
Equisetum
arvense L.
fluviatile L.
Lycopodium
alopecuroides L.
var. flabelliforme Fernald
inundatum L.
var. Bigelovii Tuckerm.
var. dendroideum (Michx.)
D. C. Eaton
tristachyum Pursh
Isoetes
echinospora Dur., var. Eraunii.
Juniperus
virginiana L.
Larix
decidua Mill.
Pinus
rigida Mill.
sylvestris L.
Typha
angustifolia L.
latifolia L.
Sparganium
americanum Nutt.
var. androcladum (Engeim.)
Fernald & Eames
eurycarpum Engeim.
Najas
flexilis (Willd.) Rostk. & Schmidt
guadalupensis (Spreng.) Morong
Potamogeton
epihydrus Raf.
hybridus Michx.
mysticus Alorong
Oakesianus Robbins
pectinatus L.
perfoliatus L.
pulcher Tuckerm.
pusillus L.
Ruppia
maritima L.
Zannichellia
palustris L.
Zostera
marina L.
Triglochin
maritima L.
Alisma
Plantago-aquatica L.
Sagittaria
Engelmanniana J. G. Sm.
latifolia Willd.
Vallisneria
spiralis L.
Agropyron
repens (L.) Beauv.
Agrostis
alba L.
var. aristata Gray
var. maritima (Lam.) G. F.
W. Mey.
hyemalis (Walt.) BSP.
perennans (Walt.) Tuckerm.
var. alata (Pursh) Hitchc.
Aird
caryophyllea L.
Aleopecurus
geniculatus L.
pratensis L.
Ammophila
arenaria (L.) Link.
Andropogon
f urcatus Muhl.
glomeratus (Walt.) BSP.
The Nantucket Flora
255
Andropogon — Continued
scoparius Michx.
var. littoralis (Nash) Hitchc.
virginicus L.
Anthoxanthum
odoratum L.
Aristida
dichotoma Michx,
gracilis Ell.
purpurascens Poir.
Avena
sativa L.
Bromus
commutatus Schrad.
hordeaceus L.
racemosus L,
secalinus L.
sterilis L.
tectorum L.
Calamagrostis
canadensis (Michx.) Beauv.
cinnoides (Muhl.) Barton
Cenchrus
tribuloides L.
Dactylis
glomerata L.
Danthonia
compressa Aust.
spicata (L.) Beauv.
Deschampsia
flexuosa (L.) Trin.
Digitaria
filiformis (L.) Koeler
humifusa Pers.
sanguinalis (L.) Scop.
Distichlis
spicata (L.) Greene
Echinochloa
crusgalli (L.) Beauv.
Elymus
virginicus L.
Eragrostis
megastachya (Koeler) Link.
pectinacea (Michx.) Steud.
var. spectabills Gray
pilosa (L.) Beauv.
Festuca
elatior L.
myurus L.
octoflora Walt.
ovina L.
var. capillata (Lam.) Hack,
var duriuscula (L.) Koch
rubra L.
Glyceria
acutiflora Torr.
canadensis (Michx.) Trin.
grandis Wats.
nervata (Willd.) Trin.
pallida (Torr.) Trin.
septentrionalis Hitchc.
Hierochloe
odorata (L.) Walilenb.
Holcus
lanatus L.
Hordeum
jubatum L.
Leersia
oryzoides (L.) Sw.
Leptochloa
fascicularis (Lam.) Gray
Lolium
multiflorum Lam.
perenne L.
Muhlenbergia
mexicana (L.) Trin.
Panicum
agrostoides Spreng.
Bicknellii Nash
capillare L.
clandestinum L.
columbianum Scribn.
depauperatum Muhl.
dichotomiflorum Michx.
dichotomum L.
linearifolium Scribn.
mattamuskeetense Ashe
meridionale Ashe
256
Nantucket
Panicum — Cont inued
miliaceum L.
Scribnerianum Nash
sphaerocarpon Ell.
tennesscense Ashe
villosissimum Nash
virgatum L.
Paspalum
Miihlenbergii Nash
psammophilum Nash
setaceum Michx.
Phalaris
canariensis L.
Phleum
pratense L.
Phragmites
communis Trin.
Poa
annua L.
compressa L.
pratensis L.
triflora Gilib.
trivialis L.
Puccinellia
distans (L.) Pari.
Setaria
glauca (L.) Beauv.
imberbis R. & S.
italica (L.) Beauv.
viridis (L.) Beauv.
Sorghastrum
nutans (L.) Nash
Spartina
cynosuroides (L.) Roth
var. alterniflora (Loisel) Merr.
var. pilosa Merr.
patens (Ait.) Muhl.
var. juncea (Michx.) Hitchc.
Sphenopholis
palustris (Michx.) Scribn.
Sporobolus
vaginiflorus (Torr.) Wood
Stipa
avenacea L.
Tridens
flavus (L.) Hitchc.
Triplasis
purpurea (Walt.) Chapm.
Zizania
aquatica L.
Carex
albolutescens Schwein.
bullata Schkuhr.
var. Greenii (Boeckl.) Fernald
canescens L.
var. subloliacea Laestad.
var. disjuncta Fernald
comosa Boott.
conoidea Schkuhr.
var. gynandra (Schwein.)
Schwein. & Torr.
var. Rudgei Bailey.
Goodenowii J. Gray
hirta L.
hormathodes Fernald
intumescens Rudge
lanuginosa Michx.
leptalea Wahlenb.
lupulina Muhl.
var. pedunculata Dewey
lurida Wahlenb.
Muhlenbergii Schkuhr.
muricata L.
pallescens L.
pennsylvanica Lam.
var. utriculata (Boott.) Bailey
var. capillacea (Bailey) Fer-
nald
scoparia Schkuhr.
seor'=a E. C. Howe.
var. ambigua (Barratt) Fer-
nald
silicea Onlcy.
var. cephalantha (Bailey) Fer-
nald
sterilis Willd.
stipata Muhl.
straminea Willd.
The Nantucket Flora
257
Cares — Continued
var. echinodes Fernald
stricta Lam.
umbellata Schkuhr.
var. tonsa Fernald
varia Muhl.
vestita Willd.
virescens Muhl.
vulpinoidea Michx,
Cladium
mariscoides (Muhl.) Torr.
Cyperus
dentatus Torr.
diandrus Torr.
esculentus L.
ferax Rich.
filiculmis Vahl.
Grayi Torr.
Nuttallii Eddy
rivularis Kunth.
strigosus L.
var. capitatus Boeckl.
var. compositus Britton
Dulichium
arundinaceum (L.) Britton
Eleocharis
acicularis (L.) R. & S.
obtusa (Willd.) Schultes
palustris (L.) R. & S.
var. glaucescens (Willd.) Gray
rostellata Torr.
tenuis (Willd.) Schultes
tricostata Torr.
Eriophorum
tenellum Nutt.
virginicum L.
viridi-carinatum (Engelm,), Fer-
nald
Rynchospora
alba (L). Vahl.
glomerata (L.) Vahl.
Torreyana Gray
Scirpus
americanus Pers.
campestris Britton
cyperinus (L.) Kunth.
nanus Spreng.
occidentalis (Wats.) Chase
pedicellatus Fernald
robustus Pursh
rubrotinctus Fernald
validus Vahl.
Scleria
triglomerata Michx.
Acorus
Calamus L.
Arisaema
triphyllum (L.) Schott.
Lemna
minor L.
trisulca L.
Eriocaulon
articulatum (Huds.) Morong
Xyris
caroliniana Walt.
flexuosa Muhl.
Tradescantia
virginiana L.
Heteranthera
dubia (Jacq.) MacM.
Pontederia
cordata L.
Juncus
acuminatus Michx.
aristulatus Michx.
articulatus L.
balticus Willd., var. littoralis
Engelm.
bufonius L.
canadensis J. Gay
dichotomus Ell.
effusus L.
var. compactus Lejeune &
Courtois
Gerardi Loisel.
Greenei Oakes & Tuckerm.
marginatus Rostk.
militaris Bigel.
258
Nantucket
Juncus — Continued
pelocarpus Mey
tenuis Willd.
var. anthelatus Wiegand
Luzula
var. multiflora ( E h r h . )
Celak.
Aletris
farinosa L.
Asparagus
officinalis L.
Hemerocallis
fulva L.
Lilium
philadelphicum L.
superbum L.
Maianthemum
canadense Desf.
Medeola
virginiana L.
Muscari
botryoides (L.) Mill
Oakesia
sessilifolia (L.) Wats.
Omithogalum
umbellatum L.
Polygonatum
biflorum (Walt.) Ell.
Smilacina
racemosa (L.) Desf.
stellata (L.) Desf.
Smilax
Bona-nox L.
glauca Walt.
herbacea L.
rotundifolia L.
var. quadrangularis (Muhl.)
Wood
Hypoxis
hirsuta (L.) Coville
Iris
prismatica Pursh
pseudacorus L.
versicolor L.
Sisyrinchium
arenicola Bicknell
atlanticum Bicknell
gramineum Curtis
graminoides.
Arethusa
bulbosa L.
Calopogon
pulchellus Sw. R. Br.
Corallorrhiza
maculata Raf.
Cypripedium
acaule Ait.
Habenaria
blephariglottis (Willd.) Torr.
ciliaris (L.) R. Br.
clavellata (Michx.) Spreng.
lacera (Michx.) R. Br.
Liparis
Loeselii (L.) Richard
Microstylis
unifolia (Michx.) BSP.
Pogonia
ophioglossoides (L.) Ker
Spiranthes
Beckii Lindl.
cernua (L.) Richard
gracilis (Bigel.) Beck
Populus
alba L.
candicans Ait.
grandidentata Michx.
tremuloides Michx.
Salix
alba L.
babylonica L.
cordata Muhl.
discolor Muhl.
var. eriocephala (Michx.)
Anders
fragilis L.
humilis Marsh
pentandra L.
petiolaris Sm.
The Nantucket Flora
259
Salix — Continued
purpurea L.
rostrata Richards
sericea Marsh
tristis Ait.
viminaHs L.
Myrica
asplenifolia L.
caroHnensis Mill.
Gale L.
Carya
alba (L.) K. Koch
glabra (Mill.) Spach.
microcarpa Nutt.
Alnus
incana (L.) Moench.
Betula
populifolia Marsh
Carpinus
caroliniana Walt.
Corylus
americana Walt.
rostrata Ait.
Fagus
grandifolia Ehrh.
Quercus
alba L.
coccinea Muench.
falcata Michx.
ilicifolia Wang.
prinoides Willd.
stellata Wang.
velutina Lam.
Boehmeria
cylindrica (L.) Sw.
var. scabra Porter
Cannabis
sativa L.
Humulus
japonicus Sieb. & Zucc.
Lupulus L.
Parietaria
pennsylvanica Muhl.
Pilea
pumila (L.) Gray
Ulmus
americana L.
Urtica
Lyallii Wats.
urens L.
Comandra
umbellata (L.) Nutt.
Fagopyrum
esculentum Moench.
Polygonella
articulata (L.) Meisn.
Polygonum
acre HBK.
amphibium L.
aviculare L.
var. angustissimum Meisn.
var. vegetum Ledeb.
Convolvulus L.
cuspidatum Sieb. & Zucc.
dumetorum L.
Hydropiper L.
hydropiperoides Michx.
lapathifolium L.
maritimum L.
pennsylvanicum L.
Persicaria L.
prolificum (Small) Robinson
forma atlanticum Robinson
sagittatum L.
setaceum Baldw.
tomentosum Schrank.
Rumex
Acetosella L.
Britannica L.
crispus L.
obtusifolius L.
pallidus Bigel.
persicarioides L.
Atriplex
arenaria Nutt.
patula.
var. hastata (L.) Gray
26o
Nantucket
Chenopodium
album L.
var. viride (L.) Moq.
ambrosioides L.
glaucum L.
hybridum L.
murale L.
polyspermum L.
rubrum L.
Salicomla
ambigua Michx.
europasa L.
mucronata Bigel.
Salsola
KaUL.
var. caroliniana (Walt.) Nutt.
Suaeda
linearis (Ell.) Moq.
maritima (L.) Dumort
Amaranthus
blitoides Wats.
graecizans L.
hybridus L.
paniculatus L.
pumilus Raf.
retroflexus L.
Phytolacca
decandra L.
Scleranthus
annuus L.
MoUugo
verticillata L.
Agrostemma
Githago L.
Arenaria
lateriflora L.
peploides L.
serpyllifolia L.
Cerastium
arvense L.
semidecandrum L.
vulgatum L.
Dianthus
Armeria L.
Lychnis
alba Mill.
dioica L.
Sagina
procumbens L.
Saponaria
officinalis L.
Vaccaria L.
Silene
antirrhina L.
Armeria L.
dichotoma Ehrh.
latifolia (Mill.)Britton & Rendle
Spergula
arvensis L.
sativa Boenn.
Spergularia
canadensis (Pers.) Don.
marina (L.) Griseb.
rubra (L.) J. &. C. Presl.
Stellaria
graminea L.
media (L.) Cyrill.
Portulaca
oleracea L.
Ceratophyllum
demersum L.
Brasenia
Schreberi Gmel.
Castalia
odorata (Ait.) Woodville &
Wood
Nymphaea
advena Ait.
Actaea
rubra (Ait.) WiUd.
Anemone
quinquefolia L.
Aquilegia
canadensis L.
Coptis
trifolia (L.) Salisb.
Ranunculus
acris L.
The Nantucket Flora
261
Ranunculus — Continued
bulbosus L.
Cymbalaria Pursh
delphinifolius Torr.
laxicaulis (T. & G.) Darby
repens L.
Thalictrum
poh'gamum Muhl.
revolutum DC.
Sassafras
varifolium (Salisb.) Ktze.
Argemone
mexicana L.
Chelidonium
majus L.
Alyssum
alyssoides L.
Barbarea
vulgaris R. Br.
Brassica
arvensis (L.) Ktze.
campestris L.
juncea (L.) Cosson
Napus L.
nigra (L.) Koch
Rapa L.
Cakile
edentula (Bigel.) Hook.
Capsella
Bursa-pastoris (L.) Medic.
Cardamine
parviflora L.
pennsylvanica Muhl.
Conringia
orientaHs (L.) Dumort
Coronopus
didymus (L.) Sm.
Diplotaxis
muralis (L.) DC.
Draba
verna L.
Erysimum
cheiranthoides L.
Lepidium
apetalum Willd.
campestre (L.) R. Br.
virginicum L.
Lobularia
maritima (L.) Desv.
Radicula
Armoracia (L.) Robinson
Nasturtium-aquaticum (L.)
Britton
palustris (L.) Moench.
sylvestris (L.) Druce
Raphanus
Raphanistrum L.
sativus L.
Sisjrmbrium
altissimum L.
officinale
var. leiocarpum DC.
Thlaspi
arvense L.
Reseda
lutea L.
Sarracenia
purpurea L.
Drosera
filiformis Raf.
longifolia L.
rotundifolia L.
Sedum
acre L.
purpureum Tausch.
Tillaea
aquatica L.
Vaillantii Willd.
Ribes
oxyacanthoides L.
Agrimonia
gryposepala Wallr.
Amelanchler
canadensis (L.) Medic.
oblongifolia (T. & G.) Roem.
Crataegus
Crus-galli L.
262
Nantucket
Crataegus — Continued
macrosperma Ashe.
pruninosa (Wendl.) C. Koch
Fragaria
vesca L.
virginiana Duchesne
Geiun
canadense Jacq.
Potentilla
Anserina L.
argentea L.
canadensis L.
var. simplex (Michx.) T. & G.
monspeliensis L.
pennsylvanica L.
pumila Poir.
Prunus
americana Marsh
avium L.
Cerasus L.
maritima Wang.
Persica (L.) Stokes
serotina Ehrh.
Pyrus
arbutifolia (L.) L. f.
var. atropurpurea (Britton)
Robinson
communis L.
Malus L.
Rosa
Carolina L.
cinnamomea L.
rubiginosa L.
virginiana Mill.
Rubus
allegheniensis Porter
argutus Link.
frondosus BigeL
hispidus L.
var. aculeatissimus (C. A.
Mey.) Kegel & Tiling
nigricans Rydb.
occidentalis L.
triflorus Richards
villosus Ait.
var. humifusus T. &. G.
Spiraea
latifolia Borkh.
tomentosa L.
Amphicarpa
monoica (L.) Ell.
Apios
tuberosa Moench.
Baptisia
tinctoria (L.) R. Br.
Cassia
Chamaecrista L.
Coronilla
varia L.
Cytisus
scoparius (L.) Link.
Desmodium
obtusum (Muhl.) DC.
sessilifolium (Torr.) T. & G.
Lathyrus
maritimus (L.) Bigel.
palustris L.
var. linearifolius Ser.
Lespedeza
Brittonii Bicknell
capitata Michx.
hirta (L.) Hornem.
procumbens Michx.
Stuvei Nutt.
violacea (L.) Pers.
virginica (L.) Britton
Medicago
lupuUna L.
sativa L.
Melilotus
alba Desr.
officinalis (L.) Lam.
Tephrosia
virginiana (L.) Pers.
Trifolium
agrarium L.
arvense L.
dubium Sibth.
The Nantucket Flora
263
Trif olium — Continued
hybridum L.
incarnatum L.
pratense L.
procumbens L.
repens L.
Ulex
europaeus L.
Vicia
americana Muhl.
angustifolia (L.) Reichard
sativa L.
tetrasperma (L.) Moench.
Linum
sulcatum Riddell
usitatissimum L.
virginianum L.
Oxalis
corniculata L.
striata L.
Erodium
cicutarium (L.) L'Her.
Geranium
carolinianum L,
maculatum L.
pusillum Burm. f.
Robertianum L.
Polygala
cruciata L.
polygama Walt.
sanguinea L.
verticillata L.
Euphorbia
Cyparissias L.
maculata L.
polygonifolia L.
Preslii Guss.
Callitriche
heterophylla Pursh
palustris L,
Corema
Conradii Torr.
Rhus
copallina L.
glabra L.
Toxicodendron L.
Vernix L.
Dex
glabra (L.) Gray
opaca Ait.
verticillata (L.) Gray
Acer
rubrum L.
Impatiens
biflora Walt.
Psedera
quinquefolia (L.) Greene
vitacea (Knerr.) Greene
Vitis
sestivalis Michx.
labrusca L.
Hibiscus
Moscheutos L.
Malva
moschata L.
rotundifolia L.
verticillata L.
Ascyrum
hypericoides L.
Hypericum
adpressum, Bart.
boreale (Britten) Bicknell
canadense L.
gentianoides (L.) BSP.
mutilum L.
perforatum L.
punctatum Lam.
virginicum L.
Elatine
americana (Pursh) Arn.
Helianthemimi
canadense (L.?) Michx.
Hudsonia
ericoides L.
tomentosa Nutt.
Lechea
Leggettii Britten & Hollick
maritima Leggett.
264
Nantucket
Lechea — Continued
minor L.
villosa Ell.
Viola
blanda Willd.
cucullata Ait.
fimbriatula Sm.
lanceolata L.
palmata L.
pedata L.
sagittata Ait.
Opuntia
Rafinesquii Engelm.
vulgaris Mill.
Decodon
verticillatus (L.) Ell.
Lythrum
Salicaria L.
Rhexia
virginica L.
Circaea
lutetiana L.
Epilobium
angustifolium L.
coloratum Muhl.
densum Raf.
hirsutum L.
palustre L.
Ludvigia
palustris (L.) EIL
CEnothera
biennis L.
fruticosa L.
muricata L.
pumila L.
Myriophyllum
humile (Raf.) Morong
tenellura Bigel.
Proserpinaca
palustris L.
Aralia
nudicaulis L.
^thusa
Cynapium L.
Conium
maculatum L.
Daucus
Carota L,
Heracleum
lanatum Michx.
Hydrocotyle
umbellata L.
Ligusticum
scothicum L.
Ptilimnium
capillaceum (Michx.) Raf.
Slum
cicutaefolium Schrank.
Cornus
canadensis L.
florida L.
Nyssa
sylvatica Marsh
Arctostaphylos
Uva-ursi (L.) Spreng.
Calluna
vulgaris (L.) Hull
Chamaedaphne
calyculata (L.) Moench.
Chimaphila
maculata (L.) Pursh
umbellata (L.) Nutt.
Chiogenes
hispid ula (L.) T. &. G.
Clethra
alnifolia L.
Epigaea
repens L.
Erica
cinerea L.
Tetralix L.
Gaultheria
procumbens L.
Gaylussacia
baccata (Wang.) C. Koch
dumosa (Andr.) T. &. G.
frondosa (L.) T. &. G.
The Nantucket Flora
265
Kalmia
angustifolia L.
latifolia L.
Lyonia
mariana (L.) D. Don
Monotropa
Hypopitys L.
uniflora L.
Pyrola
americana Sweet
chlorantha Sw.
Rhododendron
viscosum (L.) Torr.
Vaccinium
atrococcum (Gray) Heller
corymbosum L.
macrocarpon Ait.
Oxycoccos L.
pennsylvanicum Lam.
vacillans Kalm
Limonium
carolinianum (Walt.) Britten
Anagallis
arvensis L.
Glaux
maritima L.
var. obtusifolia Fernald
Lysimachia
Nummularia L.
quadrifolia L.
terrestris (L.) BSP.
vulgaris L.
Samolus
floribundus HBK.
Trientalis
americana (Pars.) Pursh
Syringa
vulgaris L.
Bartonia
virginica (L.) BSP.
Centaurium
spicatum (L.) Fernald
Menyanthes
trifoliata L.
Nymphoides
lacunosum (Vent.) Fernald
Sabbatia
dodecandra (L.) BSP.
gracilis (Michx.) Salisb.
Apocynum
androsaemifolium L.
cannabinum L.
medium Greene
Asclepias
amplexicaulis Sm.
incarnata
var. pulchra (Ehrh.) Pers.
phytolaccoides Pursh
syriaca L.
tuberosa L.
Convolvulus
arvensis L.
sepium L.
var. pubescens (Gray) Fernald
Cuscuta
Gronovii Willd.
Echium
vulgare L.
Lithospermum
arvense L.
Mertensia
maritima (L.) S. F. Gray
Myosotis
Laxa Lehm.
Onosmodium
virginianum (L.) A. DC.
Verbena
hastata L.
urticsefolia L.
Galeopsis
Ladanum L.
Tetrahit L. '
Hedeoma
pulegioides (L.) Pers.
Lamium
amplexicaule L.
Leonurus
Cardiaca L.
266
Nantucket
Lycopus
amcricanus ?.Iuhl.
virginicus L.
Marrubium
vulgare L.
Mentha
arvensis
var. canadensis (L.) Briquet
crispa L.
gen tills L.
piperita L.
spicata L.
Nepeta
Cataria L.
hederacea (L.) Trevisan.
Prunella
vulgaris L.
Pycnanthemum
flexuosum (Walt.) BSP.
incanum (L.) Michx.
virginianum (L.) Durand &
Jackson
Scutellaria
galericulata L.
lateriflora L.
Stachys
hyssopifolia Michx.
Teucrium
canadense L.
Trichostema
dichotomum L.
Datura
Stramonium L.
Tatula L.
Lycium
halimifolium Mill.
Nicandra
Physalodes (L.) Pers.
Phy sails
lanceolata Michx.
Solanum
Dulcamara L.
nigrum L.
Gerardia
maritima Raf.
paupercula (Gray) Britton
purpurea L.
tenuifolia Vahl.
Gratiola
aurea Muhl.
Ilysanthes
anagallidea (Michx.) Robinson
dubia (L.) Barnhart
Limosella
Aquatica L., var. tenuifolia
(Wolf.) Pers.
Linaria
canadensis (L.) Dumont
vulgaris Hill
Melampyrum
lineare Lam.
Pedicularis
canadensis L.
Schwalbea
americana L.
Scrophularia
marilandica L.
Verbascum
Blattaria L.
Thapsus L.
Veronica
arvensis L.
Utricularia
clandestina Nutt.
cleistogama (Gray) Britton
intermedia Hayne
subulata L.
vulgaris L., var. americana
Gray
Plantago
aristata Michx.
decipiens Bameoud
lanceolata L.
major L.
Rugclii Dene.
Cephalanthus
occidentalis L.
The Nantucket Flora
267
Galium
circaezans Michx.
Claytoni Michx.
pilosum Ait.
trifidum L.
triflorum Michx.
Houstonia
cserulea L.
longifolia Gaertn.
Mitchella
repens L.
Linnaea
borealis L., var. americana
(Forbes) Rehder
Sambucus
canadensis L.
Viburnum
alnifolium Marsh.
dentatum L.
venosum Britton
Echinocystis
lobata (Michx.) T. &. G.
Sicyos
angulatus L.
Campanula
rapunculoides L.
Specularia
perfoliata (L.) A. DC.
Lobelia
cardinalis L.
inflata L.
Achillea
Millefolium L.
Ambrosia
artemisiasfolia L.
Anaphalis
margaritacea (L.) B. &. H.
Antennaria
neglecta Greene
neodioica Greene
plantaginifolia (L.) Richards.
Anthemis
Cotula L.
Arctium
minus Bernh.
Artemisia
annua L.
caudata Michx.
Stelleriana Bess.
vulgaris L.
Aster
concolor L.
dumosus L.
ericoides L.
laevis L.
linariifolius L.
multiflorus Ait.
novi-belgii L.
patens Ait.
spectabilis Ait.
subulatus Michx.
umbellatus Mill.
undulatus L.
Baccharis
halimifolia L.
Bidens
cernua L.
connata Muhl.
frondosa L.
tevis (L.) BSP.
Chrysanthemimi
Leucanthemum L.
Parthenium (L.) Bernh.
Chrysopsis
falcata (Pursh) EU.
Cichorium
Intybus L.
Cirsium
altissimum (L.) Spreng.
arvense (L.) Scop.
lanceolatum (L.) Hill
pumilum (Nutt.) Spreng.
spinosissimum (Walt.) Scop.
Erechtites
hieracifolia (L.) Raf.
Erigeron
annuus (L.) Pers.
268
Nantucket
Erigeron — Continued
canadensis L.
philadelphicus L.
ramosus (Walt.) BSP.
var. discoideus(Robbins)RSP.
Eupatorium
hyssopifolium L.
perfoliatum L.
var. truncatum Gray
pubescens Miihl.
purpureum L.
rotundifolium L.
sessilifolium L.
verbenaefolium Michx.
Galinsoga
parviflora Cav.
Gnaphalium
polycephalum Michx.
purpureum L.
uliginosum L.
Helianthus
divaricatus L.
strumosus L.
tuberosus L.
Hieracium
aurantiacum L,
canadense Michx.
Gronovii L.
venosum L.
Inula
Helenium L.
Krigia
virginica (L.) Willd.
Lactuca
canadensis L.
birsuta Muhl.
Leontodon
autumnalis L.
Liatris
scariosa Willd.
Pluchea
camphorata (L.) DC.
Prenanthes
alba L.
racemosa Michx.
serpentaria Pursh
trifoliolata (Cass.) Femald
Rudbeckia
hirta L.
Senecio
vulgaris L.
Sericocarpus
asteroides (L.) BSP.
Hnifolius (L.) BSP.
Solidago
caesia L.
canadensis L.
EUiottii T. &. G.
graminifolia (L.) Salisb.
minor (Michx.) Fernald
neglecta T. & G.
nemoralis Ait.
odora Ait.
puberula Nutt.
rugosa Mill.
sempervirens L.
serotina Ait.
tenuifolia Pursh.
uliginosa Nutt.
ulmifoHa Muhl.
Sonchus
arvensis L.
asper (L.) Hill
oleraceus L.
Tanacetum
vulgare L.
var. crispum DC.
Taraxacum
erythrospermum Andrz.
officinale Weber
Tragopogon
pratensis L.
Xanthium
echinatum Murr.
CHAPTER XIV
VILLAGES, DISTRICTS, ETC.
The Indian Villages. The Indians had numerous
villages scattered over the island, but, unfortunately,
the sites of but a few of them have been recorded. One
of the largest is known to have been at Occawa or
Orcawa, in the neighborhood of the modem Plainfield
farm near Siasconset, and in this immediate vicinity
they had also one of their meeting-houses.
Another large Indian village was located about the
northern extremity of Miacomet Pond, not very far
from the northern boundary of the shear-pen district;
and in this direction evidences of a large settlement
have been found from time to time. Here also was
one of their meeting-houses.
On land occupying the western side of Squam Pond,
a third village was situated, at a place then known as
Ahapehant, or Apapachonsett.
A fourth Indian village stood near Shawkemo, south
of Abram's Point, and north of Shimmo; and it is be-
lieved that there was also an Indian burying ground
there.
At Secacacha, and also at Peedee, southeast of
Sacacha Pond, there were two villages existing in 1700,
but whether these were fishing stages erected on pre-
269
270 Nantucket
viously existing Indian villages or not, there is no
evidence to show.
The last three wigwams on the island were standing
at Squam, in 1796. The last one was on Rock Island,
and it was taken down in 1797. It was on Tristram
Starbuck's farm, and was occupied by Abigail Fisher.
Fishing Stages. From an early period the maritime
advantages of the island induced the settlers to engage
in the pursuit of fishing, and, as they had found cod-
fishing remunerative, they naturally engaged in it to
a considerable extent. Fishing stages were, therefore,
erected at various points round the shore, especially
at the south and east sides of the island, for the accom-
modation of the fishermen. These consisted of small
wooden huts or cabins capable of sheltering a boat's
crew, numbering usually five men. There were several,
at Siasconset on the east coast, and near Weeweder
Pond on the south. The small village of Peedee, about
one mile and a half north of Siasconset, had several,
and a large niimber were erected at Sacacha Pond.
Also there was a cluster at Quidnet, near the head of
the harbor. They usually contained a stone fireplace,
with a brick chimney at the one end, and, at the other,
two bedrooms capable of accommodating four men.
Above, a small attic constituted an apartment fo/ the
boys. A few of these miniature dwellings may still be
seen at Siasconset.
As a general rule, the location of these fishing-stages
gave rise to numerous villages in the course of time, and
the most important of these is Siasconset.
Great Point (or Nauma — "Long Point"), with Cos-
kata, the "Haulover," and Coatue, forms a natural
breakwater, making the harbor of Nantucket almost
completely land-locked.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 271
Great Point, or Nauma, is situated at the extreme
northeast of the island, at the end of a sandy prolonga-
tion extending northwards from Coskata. By water,
it is about nine miles from Nantucket. It has a govern-
ment lighthouse upon it. The first lighthouse was
erected in 1794, but was destroyed by fire in 1816.
The present stone structure was built, probably during
the same year. " It is a favorite place for bluefishing." ^
Coskata ("at the broad woods") is the section of
Long Point north of Wauwinet which, with the "Haul-
over," forms the eastern and northern sides of the
upper harbor.
The "Haulover" — a narrow strip of sand formerly
dividing the harbor from the ocean, and constituting
the narrowest part of the island, still water on one
side and surf on the other — was so named from the
fishermen being in the habit of haiiling their boats over
it in order to avoid sailing round the point, thus materi-
ally shortening their route. In 1896, the sea, during
a storm, burst through this sandy partition, and con-
verted the peninsula of Coatue and Great Point into
an island, thus necessitating the laying of a cable
between it and the Life-saving Station at Coskata.
The opening has since closed up again.
Wauwinet (named after the distinguished Sachem
who ruled over this section of the island about the time
of the arrival of the settlers) is a small village beauti-
fully situated near the "Haiilover," at the head of the
harbor, on the eastern aspect of the island, about nine
miles from Nantucket town (seven by water), and
about four from Siasconset. Motor- and sail-boats
ply regularly twice a day between Nantucket and
' Godfrey's Island of Nantucket, to which the writer is under many
obligations.
272 Nantucket
the village. Wauwinet is situated on the narrowest
part of the island — the harbor being on one side and
the ocean on the other. Either the finest surf -bathing
in the ocean, or the most perfect still-water bathing in
the harbor, may be enjoyed within a distance of three
hundred yards.
Here also is a comfortable hotel, and a beautiful
view can be obtained of the ocean, the harbor, and the
town of Nantucket in the distance. Those who delight
in scenery will be well repaid by a visit to this com-
paratively wild and romantic spot.
Squam is a tract of land to the east of Pocomo, and
at the northeast part of the island. At its eastern
boundary, very close to the ocean, is Squam Pond.
This section also contains Herrecatur Swamp, a locality
called Cotackta — where there is a large bowlder, and
Eat-fire Spring, alluded to in Col. Hart's novel Miriam
Coffin. This tract was within the boundaries of
Wauwinet 's possessions. It has been stated that this
district during the latter part of the seventeenth cen-
tury, was covered with trees to a great extent.
Quidnet (a contraction for Aquidnet, meaning "at
the place of the point ") was originally one of the fishing-
stages, but afterwards became a good-sized village
and famous for its fishing. It is situated north of
Secacacha Pond, and consists at present of only a few
straggling houses.
Here, in the latter part of the nineteenth century,
lived for many years, in a quaint old domicile, the
hermit Frederick Parker. He was a genial, urbane
man, who, although he had separated himself from the
outer world, was nevertheless pleased to receive
visitors and to exchange his views with them as to
current events. He died many years ago.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 273
Secacacha (usually contracted to Sacacha) village,
so named from the adjacent pond, was erected about
1700, and up to 181 8, was well knowa^s a fishing-
place ; indeed it was for a time the largest fishing-stage
on the island. It was, however, ultimately abandoned
for Sconset, and many of its numerous houses were
removed to the latter place.
Sacacha Pond covers over three hundred acres,
and has always been famous as a fishing-place for
perch. It is situated about seven or eight miles east
of Nantucket.
Sankaty Head' is one of the highest points on the
island — ninety-two feet— and from its proud eminence
gleams its famous lighthouse, the most important
beacon on the island. Sankaty Head is about one mile
and a half north from Siasconset, and the cliff walk
between these two places is one of the most enjoyable
that can be imagined. The tower of the beacon, which
is built of stone, brick, and iron, is painted white, red,
and white, alternately, and its extreme height is one
hundred and seventy-five feet from the sea-level. It
shows a "Fresnel" light which can be seen distinctly
at a distance of twenty-eight miles or more at sea.
This splendid light was flashed across the ocean for
the first time on February 2, 1850; it consists of an
intense white gleam for fifty seconds, varied by minutal
flashes, each of ten seconds' duration.
On October i, 1912, the supply of Sankaty light-
house lamp was changed from "three- wick oil-burning
kerosene" to incandescent oil vapor. Kerosene oil is
' The derivation of this word is obscure. If the hill was called by the
Indians, as stated by Z. Macy, Naphchecoy, it cannot mean " round the
head"; Mr. Worth plausibly suggests that it may mean "on the other
side of Pochick," which is at least intelligible.
18
274 Nantucket
forced by air-pressure from the holding tank, the neces-
sary amount of pressure used being forty-eight pounds ;
the oil in burner is heated by alcohol for fifteen minutes
until it becomes incandescent inside the mantle.
The lenses from the oil-burning lamp gave light,
fixed, 4000 candle power — flash 38,000. The lenses
give from vapor 27,000 c. p. fixed light, and estimated
flash-light 220,000. '
The lenses alone are said to have cost $6000.
For many years, the genial Captain Remsen has
been the very competent keeper of the lighthouse.
It need scarcely be added that a most magnificent
view can be obtained from the outlook-landing at the
top of the tower. Sankaty Head is also interesting in
a scientific sense as the slopes of the bluff afford a good
opportunity for observing the glacial conformation of
the island.
Saul's Hills, about four miles and a half to the east
from Nantucket, form the highest group on the island,
Macy's and Folger's being the highest. Macy's hill
reaches a height of one hundred and two feet. This
range of glacial hills is very interesting from a geological
point of view, and their rounded, dome-like tops supply
a good illustration of glacial action, which was the last
elemental factor in the preparation of the earth as a
dwelling-place for mankind.
Anyone with a heart attuned to Nature cannot fail
to find amid the solitude and varied natural resources
of this elevated region a benediction and a perennial jo}^
Siasconset, an Indian w^ord signifying "near the
great bone" (Worth). The word is now usually abbre-
viated to Sconset, — at present a popular and flourishing
summer resort on the eastern shore of Nantucket Island,
' By courtesy of Captain Remsen.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 275
although, in 1748, it was merely a stage for fishermen,
and many of its original cottages were removed from
Sacacha. This quaint little township with its diminu-
tive cottages has not inaptly been compared to the
contents of a German toy-box left out of doors to
sparkle in the sun.
It is seven and a half miles from Nantucket town,
with which it is in direct communication by means of
an excellent macadamized road and a line of railroad.
It is built upon the brow of a slight eminence over-
looking the broad Atlantic, and is distinguished by the
purity of its air, its attractive long sandy beach, and
the sublime roll of surf which dashes upon its sandy
shore. It is, moreover, constituted as a unique and
independent republic, with its own- — for the most part
unwritten — laws, which are founded upon broad prin-
ciples of conscience, reason, philanthropy, justice, and
friendship, and if such as these were universally incor-
porated, this "round terrestrial ball" would be a much
better and pleasanter dwelling-place for humanity at
large. It has been set apart as a recuperative resting-
place for the dramatic profession, many of whom have
built their own cosy little bungalows to such an extent
as to justify its designation as "The Actors' Colony."
The native inhabitants are distinguished by that
quaintness, intelligence, and true hospitality which
have ever characterized the islanders of Nantucket,
and there are few spots where one can enjoy the pre-
eminent advantages of natural hygiene, quietude, and
simplicity of regime so happily associated, as in this
delightful resort.
Siasconset can accommodate over 1200 visitors.
The more recent part of the township extends north
and south, and many elegant cottages have been erected
276 Nantucket
in addition to many furnished dwellings and boarding-
houses.
There are three excellent hotels, viz: "The Ocean
View," "The Atlantic" (now called "Old Sconset Inn"),
and the "Beach House, "^ — ^besides a well equipped
Casino, splendid golf-links, unsurpassed surf-bathing,
an ideal playground for children, complete telephone
and wireless telegraph communication, and a chapel
for worship which is used by all denominations in turn.
Sunset Heights, at the west end of Siasconset, and
about eight miles from Nantucket, are a continuation
of the bank on which Sconset is built, and contain
about thirteen acres. There is, perhaps, no point on
the island from which a more sublime view of the broad
Atlantic can be obtained. Here the mighty ocean
breaks in elemental strife over Pochick and "Old Man"
rips, and here, also, the fishermen dart through the
foam with their laden boats, surf-bathers exult amid
the music of the waves and the weird cry of hosts of
sea-gulls, and those who love the majestic roll of
ocean's diapason have only to listen while their hearts
rejoice.
Many summer cottages have been erected here, and
this lovely spot is surely destined to become a colony
of those who venerate Nature in her sublimest moods.
Tom Never's Head (named from a distinguished
Indian, so-called) is an extensive bluff overlooking
the ocean, of which it affords a view which is unsur-
passed for grandeur and sublimity. The bluff is in
height about sixty-five feet from the level of the sea,
and the headland is about six miles southeast of
Nantucket. ^
' A vivid description of this grand head will be found in Mr. North-
rup's Sconset Cottage Life.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 277
Surf-Side, a name given to about four miles of coast
on the south shore of the island, is about three miles
and a half from Nantucket, and has received its name
from the majestic waves which break upon its sands.
The land is high and level, and the view of the ocean is
magnificent and uninterrupted. The air is always, pure,
cool, and refreshing. One of the United States Life-
saving Stations, installed in 1874, is situated here.
Madeket, Madaket, Maddequet, Madaquet, Mat-
taket are orthographical variations for the name of a
small village on the west side of Nantucket Island, and
about five miles from the town. It is situated on an
excellent, though shallow, harbor of the same name, is
a good place for fishing, and it contains a Life-saving
Station, a short distance from which are one of the boat-
houses of the Humane Society, and a school which is
open for six months of the year.
On the old Madeket Road is the Benjamin Franklin
Fountain, erected by the Abiah Folger Chapter of the
D. A. R., near the site of Peter Folger's house. It was
in the vicinity of Madeket that Thomas Macy, Edward
Starbuck, and Thomas Coleman spent their first year
on the island — 1659-60 — in making preparations for
the settlement.
Smith's Point is situated at the extreme western end
of the island, and extends about two miles beyond the
Life-saving Station. In 1790, the sea cut off a portion
of it, thus constituting it a small island in itself. The
cable-house is situated here ; also one of the boat-houses.
It is traditional that this point was the landing-place
used by the Indians of Martha's Vineyard in their
intercourse with those of Nantucket, and it was called
by them Nopque, meaning "the point far away." The
word Noapx, erroneously regarded as synonymous,
278 Nantucket
refers to the "Noapogs," or "far away people," i. e.
the Indians of Martha's Vineyard.
Smith's Point is about six miles west from Nantucket.
The boat-house referred to above is that of the Humane
Society, and is about two miles west of the Life-saving
Station.
Tuckemuck or Tuckanuckett — said to mean "a
loaf of bread " — -is a small island lying two miles or so
to the west of Nantucket Island, and contains about
1260 acres. In 1659, it was sold by Thomas Mayhew
to Tristram Coffin and others for £6. A number of
families live on the island, and some influential visitors
have summer residences there. It is a pleasant sail
to the island, where there is first-rate fishing. A school
is maintained during the summer months.
It is marked on De Laet's map, 1630, as Pentockynock.
Muskeget is the name of another small island, about
ten miles west from that of Nantucket, where there is
also a Life-saving Station. The derivation of the
word is uncertain, but it may mean "the place of grass
land." An earlier name was Kotget. It contains
about three hundred acres, and is comparatively useless
except for fishing and shooting. It it a popular place
with those who are fond of these two varieties of sport,
and it is famous as a breeding-place for gulls and terns.
The Town of Nantucket is pleasantly situated on a
gentle slope on the southwest side of the harbor, almost
in the middle of the island. Until 1795, it was known
as Sherburne, a name suggested, as some assert, by
Governor Lovelace of New York Province; while
others contend that the name was bestowed from Sher-
burne, a small seaport town in Dorsetshire, England,
which was the home of Thomas Gardner, the father of
Richard and John Gardner of Nantucket.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 279
The town covers a settled area of about six hundred
and forty acres, or one square mile, and with the old-
time architecture of its wooden houses it is as quaint
as it is picturesque.
The greater part of the town was built when the
whaling industry was flourishing, when the town had
a population of nearly 10,000, and the roof-walks on a
multitude of houses still witness to the "olden golden
days," when the inmates of nearly every household
were wont to look for the return of the whalers from long
and perilous voyages. Many a stately dwelling still
remains to keep a storied past in sweet remembrance,
and there is a charm about the town's cobble-paved
streets which has only to be once felt to be kept ever
green in memory. About half a century ago, its chief
thoroughfares were lined with elm-trees and maples
which have grown into magnificent trees; and their
interlacing branches, covered with foliage in summer-
time, form a delightful shade. The variety and bright-
ness of its many stores and markets rival those of more
pretentious cities, while its historical associations are
replete with interest; moreover, the inhabitants are
characterized by geniality and intelligence, and possess
a personality which is as unique as indescribable.
Brant Point is situated at the entrance to Nantucket
harbor. As early as 1700, beacon-lights of a primitive
character were maintained by the islanders at this
point, but the first lighthouse was not erected until
1746. This was the second beacon-light for ships ever
built in the United States. Of four lighthouses erected
on this point, three were destroyed by fire, and one
was blown down in 1774. In 1791, the point was ceded
to the government by the town authorities. The
present lighthouse was built in 1856, and was in use
28o Nantucket
until 1900 when, it being found that the construction
of the jetties interfered with the range of the Hght, there
was erected a smaller wooden structure, which is still
in operation, '
It was at Brant Point also, that ship-building was
carried on, at intervals, from 1810-40.
Coatue — "at the Pine-woods" — is a long, low, nar-
row point of sand, about a mile from Nantucket, ex-
tending from the entrance to the harbor to Coskata.
Sherburne Bluffs is a beautifully situated tract of
land, about twenty-five acres in extent, a little more
than a mile due north of the town of Nantucket by way
of the Cliff road. A magnificent view of the entire
bay is afforded from this delightful locality, where there
are also numerous summer cottages and residences.
It is stated that there was formerly a grove of white
oaks in this vicinity, but it has long since disappeared.
Monomoy is a large tract of land across the harbor
from Nantucket, about one mile from the steamboat
wharf, and two miles via Sconset road. It forms part
of the southern boundary of the harbor. In 1678, the
acreage of South Monomoy was eighty-seven and
one hundred and fifty rods, and of West Monomoy in
1726-27 seventy-six acres and fifty-four rods. Several
inland creeks formerly existed on this land, but they
are gradually being filled up. There are a number of
neat summer cottages at the northern end of this
beautiful district.
Other Sections of the island are known as Trot's
Hills in the northwest, North, Middle, and South
Pastures, Southeast Quarter, Town Pasture, Smooth
Hummocks, the Woods, the Plains, the Head of the
Plains, Nanahumack's Neck, etc., but their distinctive
' For further particulars vide Chapter XX.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 281
features have been obliterated, the varied uses for
which they were originally constituted no longer exist,
and, for the most part, the silence and fragrance of the
"moorlands" shroud them in oblivion. They call
for no further notice here.
Springs. There are innumerable springs of water on
the island, and the early settlers were careful that one
of these natural benefactions was in close proximity
to their respective house-lots.
A few of those springs which have received insular
prominence may be enumerated: Sachem Spring, on
the north shore beyond the bathing beach; Shawkemo
Spring, at Shawkemo; Eat-Fire Spring, beyond the
termination of Polpis harbor; Benjamin Franklin
Spring which marked the site of Peter Folger's house
on Madeket Road — now conducted to an ornamental
fountain by the Abiah Chapter of the Nantucket
D. A. R. ; and Consue Spring near the foot of Union
Street.
Wherever an old house exists, or has existed, one is
sure to find a living spring of water adjacent, thus
showing that our forefathers recognized in pure cold
water one of the most invaluable gifts with which the
All-Father has dowered humanity.
Shimmo and Shawkemo — the former signifying "a
spring," and the latter "the middle field of land," — are
two conjoined tracts of land which constitute the south
boundary of the harbor. At one time, it was proposed
to build a new town in this locality, but the project
failed to realize.
Quaise or Masquetuck — the former referring to
"the end or point," the latter meaning "reed-river,
but transferred to the land" — is interesting as having
been the neck of land reserved by Mr. Thomas May-
282 Nantucket
hew for his own use when he sold the island of Nan-
tucket to the settlers. Macy says: "It was a tract of
land given to Mr. Thomas Macy by one of the old
Sachems."' Quaise extends into Nantucket harbor
and forms the western boundary of Polpis harbor. It
is also interesting as the locality on which the famous
Keziah CofEn had her country seat, and where she
carried on smuggling for a considerable time before
she was arrested and tried. Under the title Miriam
Coffin, Colonel Hart related in his well-known novel,
the history and adventures of this extraordinary
woman.
Polpis or Podpis — meaning "the divided or branch
harbor" — a village about equidistant between Wauwinet
and Nantucket, is interesting as having had the home
of one of the early settlers within its boundaries. John
Swain purchased land here in 1680, and presumably
built his house when his title was confirmed in 1684.
Additions had been made to it since it was built, and
the house remained until 1902, when it was destroyed
by lightning, — the oldest house on the island. The
village is situated on an inlet of the upper harbor which
bears the same name. This district represents the
" Spotso Country," so-called from the old Indian Spotso
who, through his wife, was resident Sachem for nearly
forty years. The land is fertile, and the village still
contains a number of dwellings in addition to a school-
house.
Swain's Neck, at Polpis, was known to the Indians
as Nashua-tuck (generally corrupted into Nashayte),
and means " the land between two tidal rivers." The
term Mosquetuck, also applied to the neck of land,
was originally given to the stream or river which flowed
'O. Ma.cy's History.
Villages, Districts, Etc. 283
into Polpis harbor beside the neck. It means "reed-
river."
Pocomo, Poocoomo, or Pacummoquah — "a round
fishing-place"- — forms the eastern boundary of Polpis
harbor, and is a headland extending into the upper
harbor of Nantucket, It is about four and a half, miles
from Nantucket by water, and contains, among other
things, a number of good farms.
CHAPTER XV
QUAINT NANTUCKETERS
The word quaint has many definitions, but, as applied
to persons or things it usually implies something un-
common and something attractive, — something which
is interesting, and at the same time individualistic.
Nantucket has long borne the reputation of being a
quaint island, and Nantucketers are usually dubbed
quaint people, and in both instances the term is, or has
been, appropriate and relevant. Nantucket is still
quaint ■ because it is unique; Nantucketers have been
quaint in other days, — a peculiar people, differing
from others in manners and customs from the reaction
of their environment, but they are now in a transitional
state owing to environmental transmutation. The
insular position of Nantucket — like a garden in the
ocean, — the bounteousness of its natural gifts, and its
remarkable history, render the island exceptional and
unconventional, while the almost iminterrupted trans-
mission of the virile qualities which they have inherited
from the white settlers of over two hundred and fifty
years ago still forcibly characterize the islanders who
have sprung from their loins.
To do this subject justice would require a large
volume: here there is only space for a brief reference
284
Quaint Nantucketers 285
to those characteristic manners and customs of Nan-
tucketers which have hitherto distinguished them up
to the middle of the nineteenth century when the off-
islanders chose to share the beauties and health-giving
ocean air, of their island-home, and gradually neutral-
ized to some extent their personal peculiarities.
Passing over the prevailing quaintness of the Quaker
period, in habits, customs, and phraseology, with its
predominating gray and sunless atmosphere, relieved
by very few instances of marked individuality amid the
stagnant uniformity, one does not recognize any thril-
ling records of personality until the islanders assumed
the dominance of the sea during the latter half of the
eighteenth century.
" Men must work
And women must weep"
when the males of a restricted sea-girt community "go
down to the sea in ships," and so it was in Nantucket
when they followed the " sparmocityes " "from sea to
sea" all over the world. The women had to gossip,
and watch, and weep at home when the men, amid the
perils of the deep, were risking their lives for their
support. The minds of both sexes were consequently
working in a very narrow groove — the one working and
the other watching — and thus evolutional expansion was
rendered nugatory, if not impossible. Both were doing
their duty, but within limits of the severest restriction.
If we seek for any evidences of personality under such
circumstances, we can find them only in the log-books
and ships' records of the male voyagers, and amid the
reactionary experiences shared by the wives and
families when the sailor-men returned home.
286 Nantucket
These log-books are replete with interest and quaint-
ness to those who sympathize with the environment of
these heroic seafarers of a time now long past. For-
tunately, a number of these characteristic, if well-
thumbed documents are still accessible, and throw
much light upon the varied lives and experiences of
Nantucket's once famous whalers.
The most meager reference is all that is here possible.
About the middle of the eighteenth century Peleg — •
(pronounced Pillick) — Folger began to keep a daily
journal of his maritime experiences, and he thus begins
his diary:
Peleg Folger, his hand and Book written at sea on Board
the sloop Grampus, May, 1751. Many pe pie who keep
journals at sea fill them up with trifles. I purpose in the
following sheets not to keep an over strict history of every
trifling occurrence that happens; only now and then some
particular affair, and to fill up the rest with subjects Mathe-
matical, Historical, Philosophical, or Poetical as best suits
my inclination —
"Qui docet indoctos licet indoctissimus esset
Ille quoque breve ceteris doctior esse queat." •
This quotation at least evidences the fact that Peleg
had had a better education than most of those in his
position, and this is sustained by his apparent penchant
for using Latin phrases not only correctly but appropri-
ately, and in every instance with orthographical exacti-
tude. That he was also of a religious turn of mind
is evident from the ending of many of his paragraphs
consisting of expressions in Latin — witnessing to his
' "He who teaches the unlearned may be most unlearned, although
he is only a little more learned than the others."
Quaint Nantucketers 287
dependence upon, or gratefulness for benefits received
from, an overruling Providence. He was esteemed as
a "character" in his day, if we may judge from the
following fragment of a nautical ditty concerning
him:
" Old Uncle Pillick he built him a boat
On the ba — ack side of Nantucket P'int;
He rolled up his trousers and set her afloat
On the ba — ack side of Nantucket P'int."
His diary literally gleams with the strong individu-
ality of the writer, a glare of selfhood which indeed
characterized these hardy mariners from the commence-
ment of the whaling industry, and in page after page
he faithfully records, in his own quaint language, the
varied experiences on board his craft, interlarded
with personal remarks and sometimes with m^oral
reflections.
In these earlier days when Peleg's journal begins,
the cruises of the whalers usually extended for a few
weeks instead of the several years' absence necessitated
by their more venturesome ocean-wanderings at a later
period. At the end of his first cruise, in 1 751, he writes
on May 15th:
This day we fell in with the South Shoal and made our
dear Nantucket, and thro' God's mercy got round the point
in the afternoon. So we turned it up to the Bar by the Sun
2 hours high. — Laus Deo.
Returning from a third cruise, on July 14th of the
same year, he writes:
We have killed two spermaceties. Now for home, Boys.
We have seventy barrels in our Hold — ex heneficia divina.
288 Nantucket
Another nautical narrator, yclept Peter Folger, has
also jotted down his experiences in his log-book from
which the following memo is taken under date of
July, 1761:
July ye 29 we stoed away our whale. We saw 2 sloops
to the Easterd of us, and we saw divers sparmocities, and
we scruck one and maid her spout Blood. She went down,
and their came a Snarl in the Toe-line and catched John
Meyrick and over sot the boat and we never saw him
after wards. We saved the whale !
A careful perusal of these old journals indicates
where we must look for the genealogical sources of
Nantucketers' quaintness, and it is here alone that
they can be discovered. Every trait and peculiarity
of an island-bom Nantucketer has filtered through the
heart's blood of these once-famous American Vikings,
and it is from them have been transmitted those bright
attributes of intelligence and character which distin-
guish Nantucketers all the world over, and which,
often above the average, and occasionally tending toward
eccentricity, are always forcible and ever individualistic.
Still later, the stream of descent receives a fresh
impulse from the Pacific Club, where, like knights of
old, the ancient mariners recounted their deeds of daring
and the dangers of the deep, while their spellbound
auditors blanched with terror and amazement as the
blood-curdling narratives followed each other in rapid
succession. For, as a modem writer has well said,
"The threads that made up the strand of Nantucket
were not diverse: in one way or another they all wove
themselves into the sea."
The Rotch Market, in which the Pacific Club has
Quaint Nantucketers 289
its Captains' Room, was built in 1772, but it was not
until 1 86 1 that it was purchased by trustees for an
association of whaling masters to be called the "Pacific
Club," and since that year the heroic captains of old,
— unfortunately a fast-decreasing number — have met
in the "Captains' Room" to tell the story of their
adventures, to compare their experiences, to enjoy
well-earned rest and recreation, to smoke their pipes,
and to interest and entertain their numerous guests
within their friendship-consecrated quarters, still sacred
to memory, and fragrant with romance.
One by one, alas, this jovial band has now disap-
peared — Crossed the Bar for the last time on their
last voyage; and the most recent — the sage and genial
Captain Defriez, known and loved by all Nantucketers
— passed away quietly in his ninety-first year, during the
spring of 19 13. The last link of a chain of heroes he
was, the last leaf on a mighty tree which has borne
good fruit on the island which bore them, the beloved
mother of them all.
The quaintness of manners and customs, of phrase-
ology and of character, which has been associated with
the islanders of Nantucket, has sprung from the bosom
of the ocean, and has been transmitted from generation
to generation.
The following is quoted from an old periodical pub-
lished over one hundred years ago, and shows how "a
little leaven leaveneth the whole lump."
Every house in this sea-faring place has a look-out upon
the roof, or a vane at the gable end, to see what ships have
arrived from sea, or whether the wind is fair for the packets.
Sea-phrases accordingly prevail in familiar conversation.
Every child can tell which way the wind blows, and any old
19
290 Nantucket
woman in the street will talk of cruising about, hailing an
old mess-mate, or making one bring to, as familiarly as the
captain of a whale-ship just arrived from the northwest
coast will describe dimension to a land-lubber by the span
of his jib-boom, or the length of his mainstay.
If you have a spare dinner, it is short allowance, if you are
going to ride, the horse must be tackled up; if the chaise is
rigged out, you are got under way; should you stop short of
your destination, you are said to tack about, or to make a
harbour. This technical phraseology, however, is attended
with the concomitant frankness and honesty of sea-faring
life — you meet a hearty welcome wherever you go.
The same authority says: "From the habit of trans-
acting business, in the absence of their husbands,
w^omen are frequently concerned in mercantile affairs,
and manage them to advantage." Again:
Before the Revolution, the people of Nantucket were like
a band of brothers. They were then an unmixed race of
English descent. They were clad in homespun, and minded
their own business. Such a thing as a bankruptcy was
therefore almost unexampled. . . . They still frequently
call each other by the familiar appellations of uncle, aunt,
cousin, etc. Persons of note are saluted by everybody they
meet; and the popular name of captain is often bestowed
on respectable people who never followed the sea, and per-
petuated, as a creditable title, like that of squire, on the
continent, to those who have retired from business.
Alluding to the absence of corporal punishment our
ancient narrator says, with regard to the jail:
The prison is admirably adapted to this state of things, for
it would not readily contain more than two or three inmates
at a time. Of its present incumbents one is a little deranged,
and the other, it is said, might go if he would!
Quaint Nantucketers 291
One more quotation:
In common with other places of easy circumstances and
difficult access, the people of Nantucket are happy to see
strangers, and such as have anything to recommend them
to notice are entertained with unbounded hospitality from
house to house. Luxuries are held in common, whoever
has anything better than his neighbours will send it to them
without asking in cases of company or sickness. ^
Such is unimpeachable testimony as to the quaintness
of Nantucketers a century ago. If it is wearing away
with age it can only be a matter for regret !
A self-reliant, seafaring people, to a great extent shut
off during many years from the rude world, will, as a
matter of course, have their character, habits, and
conversation evolved in accordance with their environ-
ment, and peculiarities or idiosyncrasies will develop
themselves in relation to circumstances and experiences.
Their virtues may savour of ancient history, but they
are none the less genuine and unaffected; and their
language, modes of expression, and customs are all in
strict accordance with the simple conditions amid
which they have been developed.
Not only among the seafarers but among the
municipal authorities of the town the same strain of
quaintness asserted itself, and a peep into the Town
Records reveals it in all its integrity.
The town-house was, and still is, the center of mani-
fold and various activities, wherein all matters of
municipal importance are considered amid frequent
divergences of opinion. As far back as the spring of
1707, it was decreed that "the towne howse should be
' The Portfolio, vol. v., No. i, January, i8il.
292 Nantucket
repaired," and then it was arranged that "thursday
next should be the day to goe to a perambelation,"
an annual function involving walking along the bound-
ary lines of public lands, and noting if the marks were
standing, or if any man had encroached upon them;
for which service, of course the " perambelators " were
"paid for their time," the principal asset of many of
them. It was somewhat of a hilarious procession,
being accompanied by all the boys and dogs in the
neighborhood.
Anon, a schoolmaster had to be hired at "three
score pound current money for the yeare," and sub-
sequently the following legislation had to be "put
through" concerning the commons:
No hogg shall go thereon without an order.
No man shall mow grass in the ram paster.
Bethiah Gardner shall mow grass at Coatue in compen-
sation of her grass eaten up by sheepe at Pacamoka.
It was further resolved that "John Macy shall build
a prison for the towne as soon as he can."
In the records for 1710, it is stated that "George
Gardner was chosen trustee by vote and was at ye
same time put out againe." A number of farmers
having suffered losses from depredating Indians
who stole their sheep, and from dogs and hogs which
killed and ate them, the natives were punished, — all
swine were impounded, and the civic fathers ordered
"that all the Dogs upon the Island of Nantucket be
forthwith killed!" Later, as might have been ex-
pected, a plague of rats infested the island, and the
town-meeting ordered that "every person who shall
Quaint Nantucketers 293
kill a Rat and bring his head to the towne treasurer
shall Receive for every such Rat a sixpence." In
order to avoid cheating by bringing the heads of young
or harmless rats, it was further stipulated that "the
Rat shall be so full grown as to be all over covered
with hair."
Constables were also appointed "to walk the town
in the night-season, and on the first day of the week,
to suppress the growing disorder of the young people
and all others that act inconsistently with the princi-
ples of morality and virtue" ; and this was followed up
by the town-meeting petitioning the Legislature of
Boston "to pass an act to put a stop to masters and
mistresses of houses entertaining minors at unseason-
able hours of the night, in Drinking and Carousing
and Frolicking contrary to the minds of their parents."
The Court of Common Pleas, sitting in Nantucket,
licensed John Coffin to sell "Tea and Coffy," and Wil-
liam Rotch ("who had been complained of by a licensed
retailer"), to sell "Speritious Lickers" out of doors
only!
The court recorded the certificates of a magistrate
that Stephen Norton had sworn "one profane oath,"
and also "one profane curs."
Those who were found guilty of "not attending
Public Worship for more than one month" were fined
ten shillings each, and five shillings and sixpence as
costs of court.
A woman in a breach of promise case claimed damages
of two hundred pounds from a sailor; but, as all the
property of the defendant amounted to only twelve
pounds four shillings and seven and a quarter pence,
the court awarded this sum, and the woman expressed
satisfaction !
294 Nantucket
It was voted to build a workhouse, and another vote
was passed not to build one.
The town paid Silas Paddock "for nursing a squaw
thirteen weeks at twelve shillings per week"; and or-
dered that ' ' the negro woman Hager be considered one
of the towns Poor."
Finally, the collector of taxes, in 1771, being delin-
quent, was put in jail, and he "refused to deliver the
tax books, or any extract from them until he was let
out!"
Thus and thus, for page after page, the town's doings
are faithfully recorded. It would have been an easy
matter to quote many other illustrations, but the few
which have been cited will serve to show that there is
a congenital undercurrent of humor pervading the
characteristic quaintness of the islanders of Nantucket.
Individuality is preeminently a matter of inheritance,
and, in reckoning up the personality of a Nantucketer,
we must primarily regard his Quaker and nautical
ancestry, and the unique elements which he has de-
veloped for himself, representing a blend of both strains.
Inherent humor is always a prominent characteristic
of a Nantucketer, and it will be found on examination
that, in almost every case, it is closely associated either
with the sea or the gray fraternity of Friends, and in
accordance with the elements of both as blent in his
own personality. A few instances culled from many
hundreds of island anecdotes will serve to illustrate the
uniqueness of Nantucket humor, and they may be
conveniently grouped under three heads, viz : Nautical,
Quakerish, and Personal.
An old captain, being invited out to dinner, frankly
acknowledged that he was ready to "fall to" any time,
for he'd "come with a swep' hold."
Quaint Nantucketers 295
Another being asked why he retired from the sea
repHed: "Well, I thought when I got to the No'thard
o' sixty, 'twas time to heave to."
Yet another, on a visit to New York, found fault with
the lack of oysters in the stew served to him at a
restaurant, and, calling to the waiter, inquired, "Say,
can't you give us a few more oysters? These here are
a day's sail apart!"
A member of the " Sons and Daughters of Nantucket"
wrote on a reply postcard accompanying the announce-
ment of the annual reunion, "Sorry I can't fetch it,
but I'll try and forelay for it next year."
A thrifty wife of the old days, noting that the
larder was getting low, and seeing no immediate
prospect of its being replenished, is said to have re-
marked to her lazy husband, who had been sitting
in the chimney corner all winter: "Well, John, one
or tother of us has got to go round Cape Horn, and I
ain't agoin'."
Long absences from home were accepted as so much
a matter of course in the old days that we can almost
believe the story of the wife who saw her husband
coming up the street on his return from a four years'
voyage "around the Horn," and, taking the empty
water-pail from its place on the dresser, met him at the
door with "Hullo, John, got back have ye? Here, go
get a bucket o' water."
A sailor just home from a voyage was strolling down
the street on his sea-legs, in a brand new suit from the
outfitter's shop — his pocket full of money which he
couldn't get rid of fast enough — smoking a long "nine,"
ogling the maids, and with a general " the world is mine "
air in his whole attitude and get-up, when he was thus
indicated — "There's Jack ! Rolling down to St. Helena
296 Nantucket
eighteen cloths in the lower studd'ns'l, and no change
out of a dollar!"
The captain of a whaling vessel called the Aurora
had spelled the name phonetically in his log-book,
Ororor, and this being noticed by the shipowner in
looking over the log-book after the return of the vessel,
he inquired the meaning of it, when the skipper in-
formed him that "it was the name of the ship."
"But," said the owner, "that is not the proper way
to spell 'Aurora.' " "Well," replied the captain,
"if Or-or-or don't spell Ororor, what in thunder does
it spell?"
Such anecdotes might be continued indefinitely, but
the nautical expressions are so interlarded with the
familiar every-day language of the islanders that they
are unaware of the fact until their attention is directed
to it by strangers. A Nantucketer does not pull, he
always "hauls," he does not tie or fasten anything, he
"splices" it; he rigs and belays, backs and fills, gets
under way, heaves to, comes about and squares away
so naturally and spontaneously that it never occurs to
him that there is anything imusual in his mode of
expressing himself.
Quakerish anecdotes are equally numerous and
characteristic, and may be exemplified as follows :
An old Quaker schoolmaster set the following copy
on the blackboard for his writing-class:
"Beauty fadeth soon
Like a rose in 6th month."
This parallelizes the reference to Robinson Crusoe and
his man Sixth Day!
Aunt Elizabeth Black, schoolmarm, used to say,
Quaint Nantucketers 297
when a pupil recited well: "Excellent! Excellent!
Thee deserves a reward of approbation!"
"Friend Charles," remarked an old Quaker to a
sailor addicted to the habit of drawing the long bow,
after an unusually stiff yam, "if thee'd ever been one-
half as economical of this world's goods as thee is of
the truth, thee'd be the richest man in Nantucket."
How much better than calling a man a liar!
Occasionally the Quakers dropped into verse, as
witness the well-known proposal of Obed Macy to
Abigail Pinkham:
" From a long consideration
Of the good reputation
Thou hast in this nation,
Gives me an inclination
To become th}^ relation
By a legal capitulation.
And if this, my declaration,
May but gain thy approbation,
It will lay an obligation
From generation to generation
On thy friend.
Who, without thy consideration,
May remain in vexation."
"It is gratifying to be able to record that this effu-
sion had the desired effect, and that Obed and Abigail
were married, in 1786, and had ten children."
An old Quaker blacksmith, who always told the
truth, when asked by a customer who brought him
some work, when it would be done, replied:
"Well, thee may call on fourth day."
On Wednesday the customer called. "Is my job
done, Uncle Obed?"
298 Nantucket
"No, not yet."
"Why, you said it would be done to-day."
"Oh, no; I said thee might call on fourth day. I'm
always glad to see thee."
One or two of a personal character may here be
quoted :
When the honor of entertaining the minister fell
to Annie Burrill, the good woman was so flustered that
she forgot to put any tea into the tea-pot, although
the water was duly boiled. The minister accepted the
beverage without remark, and when the spirit of hospi-
tality prompted his hostess to ask him repeatedly, "Is
your tea satisfactory?" his invariable response was, "It
has no bad taste, madam!" Thus, "as weak as Annie
Burrill's tea " became a simile for her day and generation.
In the far away time lived one Squire Hussey, lawyer,
estate agent, justice of the peace, and withal a past
master of the English language, as will appear in the
following notices:
For Sale: A dwelling-house situated on the Cliff. This
notable headland commands an extensive view of the Vine-
yard Sound, where vessels may be seen passing to and fro
in accelerated velocity.
For Sale: A dwelling-house on York Street. This is
one of the most popular localities of the town, in the midst
of a refined and enlightened community. The Colored
Methodist Society contemplates erecting a house of wor-
ship immediately opposite, which fact will commend itself
to all religiously disposed minds.
Finally, as emphasizing the "self-complacency and
self-satisfaction of the average Nantucketer" concern-
ing his native island, the following instances may be
cited :
Quaint Nantucketers 299
A Nantucket schoolboy being asked to mention the
situation of Alaska, located it as being "in the north-
west corner of off-island!"
Another began a composition thus: "Napoleon was
a great man; he was a great soldier and a great states-
man — but he was an off -islander ! " Alas, Napoleon!
Devoted as ever to their island home, as to a fond
and loving mother, Nantucketers have at length, to a
great extent, become cosmopolitan, for there is not a
corner of the earth into which they have not had access,
and in which they have not maintained their reputation,
and flourished accordingly. But times have also
changed. The sea which still laps their island shores
is no longer freighted with an argosy of ships; Hygeia
has usurped the rule of Neptune, and association with
thousands of health-seeking strangers, year after year,
has wellnigh neutralized the quaintness of Nantucket-
ers, which was once their birthright and their heritage.
The lapse of time and the changes which it has
wrought have relegated most of the old island customs
into desuetude. No longer does the large blue flag
floating from the south tower announce the home-
coming of a whaler from foreign seas, nor do the sheep-
shearing festivities gladden the hearts of the islanders
as in days of yore ; no more do the whirring arms of the
old mill grind the home-grown grist, nor is even the
fish-horn of the town-crier heard again as it re-echoed
but a few years ago in discordant blasts. But one old
custom remains — the ringing of the belfry-bell at 7 a.m.,
noon, and 9 p.m., as if to emphasize time's rapid flight.
The old "characters," too, who in one way and
another gave piquancy if not picturesqueness to the
island's life, have all passed away, — the quartette of
town-criers, the weird sisters Newbegin, Mrs. McCleave
300 Nantucket
and her museum, and others, mayhap forgotten.
Memories and regrets are associated with each one of
them, but sic vita est. Who does not remember Billy
Clark, the genial, the zealous, the indefatigable?
Drake in his Nooks and Corners of Massachusetts thus
refers to him :
This functionary I met, swelling with importance, but a
trifle blown from the frequent sounding of his clarion, to wit,
a japanned fish-horn. Met him, did I say? I beg the in-
dulgence of the reader. Wherever I wandered in my
rambles, he was sure to turn the corner just ahead of me,
or to spring from the covert of some blind alley. He was
one of those who, Macy says, knew all the other inhabitants
of the island ; me he knew for a stranger. He stopped short.
First he wound a terrible blast of his horn: T-o-o-t, t-o-o-t,
t-o-o-t!! It echoed down the street like the discordant
braying of a donkey. This he followed with the lusty
ringing of a large dinner-bell, peal on peal, until I was ready
to exclaim with the Moor, "Silence that dreadful bell: it
frights the isle from her propriety!" Then placing the
fish-horn under his arm, and taking the bell by the tongue,
he delivered himself of his formula. I am not likely to
forget it: "Two boats a day! Burgess's meat auction
this evening! Corned beef! Boston Theatre, positively
last night this evening!" He was gone, and I heard bell
and horn in next street. He was the life of Nantucket
while I was there ; the only inhabitant I saw moving faster
than a moderate walk.
Poor Billy! Having kept Nantucketers alive for
forty years, he at length wore himself out, and died in
1909.
He had three contemporaries, in some respects as
quaint as himself, viz: William B. Ray, Alvin Hull, and
Charles H. Chase; and each had his own following,
Billy Clark, Town Crier
Photograph by H. S. Wyer
Quaint Nantucketers 301
while all were useful, obliging, and popular. The last
named had the misfortune to lose his eyesight. A good
story is told of him to the effect that when making one
of his announcements in front of an hotel where a
number of young ladies were sitting, one of the girls
dared another to ask the crier where he got his bell.
Mr. Chase overheard the remark, and when the young
lady in question asked the crier where he got his bell,
with a polite bow he replied: "I got my bell, young
woman, where you got your manners — at the brass
foundry!" Ding-dong! Ding-dong!'
Mrs. McCleave — or more familiarly "Lizy Ann" —
was one of several sisters, all of whom were more
or less eccentric; she was not only the most peculiar,
but possessed the strongest character, combining with
her eccentricities considerable native shrewdness and
tartness, and withal a kindly disposition. She lived
in Upper Main Street, beyond Gardner Street, where
her house became a Mecca for visitors. She came
by slow and natural stages into her special field as
** showman," beginning with a few articles (brought
home by her husband from his whaling voyages as
a sea-captain) which she was gradually induced to
show and explain to more and more people, while,
at the same time, the number of her curiosities
constantly increased. Some of her visitors, amused
by the "lecture" into which her explanations grew,
sent additions of a nondescript nature to her col-
lection. Thus it embraced things of all sorts, —
the veriest trash, as well as really rare and choice
articles — but Mrs. McCleave exhibited all with impar-
tial appreciation. Of course she was herself more
remarkable than anything in her collection, and was
' Godfrey.
302 Nantucket
probably well aware of the fact. She ruled her audi-
ences with absolute despotism, usually selecting some
one person as the butt of her sallies and the recipient
of her attentions.
She expected laughter, and desired it at certain parts
of her lecture, but woe betide the one who laughed in
the wrong place! She was known to have dismissed
from the room a prominent summer visitor to the
island because he had made that mistake, and no
apologies on his part would have reinstated him in
her good graces. Many good anecdotes are told
of her, but limited space prevents their reproduction
here.
She had an ingenious way of ridding herself of
her audience at the end of her lecture by invit-
ing them downstairs to see the cat, when, finding
themselves at the front door, they could only take
their departure. She died about twelve or fifteen
years ago.
A few words must be devoted to the three weird
sisters, well-known to all Nantucketers of a generation
ago as "the Newbegins." These weak-minded but
worthy old souls were lifelong members of the Society
of Friends. They were so eccentric that the islanders
regarded them as curiosities, and frequently enter-
tained their visiting friends or strangers from the
mainland by taking them to pay a visit to the three
quaint old ladies, who received all comers graciously,
and on the departure of their guests invariably asked
them to "come again."
Phebe Newbegin, the eldest sister, died at the age
of ninety-four, Mary at ninety-three, and Ann at
eighty-one.
They were buried in the Wilburite section of the
Quaint Nantucketers 303
Friends' burying-ground at Nantucket, but the place
of their interment is unmarked by any gravestone. '
Nantucketers not only resent as an aspersion, but
categorically deny, that there is any quaintness asso-
ciated with them ; but they might as well repudiate the
fact that there are certain racial peculiarities which
differentiate one race from another, or that individuals
can conceal inherited differences between them which
are as characteristic as indelible. The old stock from
which they have descended was resourceful, honorable,
capable, and self-reliant, and its modem representatives
have inherited the same elements of character from their
ancestors; but they have also had transmitted to them
the maritime proclivities of their forefathers, and,
generally segregated from the outside world as they
have long been, in an insular environment, they have
lived like one large family, in which the peculiarities
of the original stock have been bred in and in without
much external variation. They have developed, there-
fore, into a people capable of being distinguishable by
certain characteristics which are apparent to every
off-islander during five minutes' conversation. Un-
conventional or eccentric might describe their idio-
syncrasies, but quaintness is more expressive, and
delightfully quaint they are. ^
' Those desirous of obtaining more particulars of these eccentric
sisters will find a very interesting narrative concerning them in IMiss
Mary Catherine Lee's volume entitled An Island Plant, 1896; also a
fully detailed paper by the writer in the Nantucket Inquirer and Mirror
of September 2, 191 1.
^ The anecdotes recorded in this chapter have been selected from a
most interesting paper on "The Humor of Nantucket," by Mr. Wm.
F. Macy, whose courtesy has permitted the writer to reproduce them
here.
CHAPTER XVI
LIFE-SAVING SERVICE AND WRECKS
It is difficult to convey a just conception of the
general scope and character of this invaluable service,
founded in 1871, or even to enumerate the beneficent
offices which it performs. While fulfilling the functions
usually allotted to several different agencies, it rescues
the shipwrecked by both the principal methods which
human ingenuity has devised for that purpose; it fur-
nishes them the subsequent succor which elsewhere
would be afforded by shipwrecked mariners' societies;
it guards the lives of persons in peril of drowning by
falling into the water from piers and wharves in the har-
bors of populous cities; it nightly patrols the dangerous
coasts for the early discovery of wrecks, and the hasten-
ing of relief; it places over peculiarly dangerous points
upon the rivers and lakes a sentry prepared to send
instant relief to those who incur the hazard of capsizing
in boats ; it conducts to places of safety those imperilled
in their homes by the torrents of flood, and conveys food
to those imprisoned in their houses by inundation and
threatened with famine; unaided, it annually saves,
from total or partial destruction, hundreds of stranded
vessels with their cargoes, and assists in saving scores
of others; it protects wrecked property, after landing,
304
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 305
from the ravage of the elements and the rapine of plun-
derers; it averts numerous disasters by its flashing
signals of warning to vessels standing in danger; it
extricates vessels unwarily caught in perilous positions ;
it assists the customs service in collecting the revenues
of the government; it pickets the coasts with a guard,
which prevents smuggling, and, in time of war, surprise
by hostile forces. In addition to these inestimable
services, it has also rendered valuable aid to scientific
research by contributing to the National Museum
rare specimens of marine zoology; has saved from de-
struction by fire many hotels, dwellings, mills, and other
structures; has detected and prevented numerous
burglaries and robberies, and has assisted in many
directions in the performance of various and manifold
incidental duties and emergencies. ^
"The Sea and Lake coasts of the United States,
exclusive of the coast of Alaska, have an extent of
more than 10,000 miles."
In addition to the life-saving stations on the Mas-
sachusetts coast, it is also guarded by the Massachu-
setts Humane Society, founded by charter granted in
1 79 1, by the State Legislature "for the purpose of
recognizing and rewarding all humane, daring, and
gallant exploits of individual citizens of the State,
wherever performed." This admirable society, during
the one hundred and twenty years of its existence, has
been the means of saving many lives wherever it is
represented, and many heroic Nantucketers have been
rewarded by gold and silver medals from the society,
bestowed for deeds of unselfish and conspicuous daring.
In 1831, some fourteen humane houses were built by
private enterprise, provisioned and placed at various
' U. S. Life-Saving SerAce Report for igio.
3o6 Nantucket
points around the island so that shipwrecked mariners
might find food and shelter near at hand.
The boathouses of the Humane Society, well equipped
and always ready, are placed at Sconset, Smith's
Point, Tuckemuck, Quidnet, Forked Pond, and at the
head of Hummock Pond.
In consequence of this extra protection, the Govern-
ment has located its life-saving stations only at points
where wrecks are unusually frequent. There are four
of these stations on the Nantucket coast, viz : the old-
est, at Surf-Side, founded in 1874; one at Great Neck,
in the Madeket district, six miles west of Surf-Side; one
at Muskeget Island, near its western end ; and one at
Coskata, two miles and a half south of Nantucket Light,
at Great Point.
According to the recent report, every dangerous
section of the shore line is patrolled by a system includ-
ing two hundred and seventy-eight stations, divided
into thirteen districts, of which the Nantucket group
constitutes District No. 2.
The station structures now being erected are larger
and more durable than the earlier ones, and better
conform to modem requirements and conveniences.
They cost on an average from $10,000 to $15,000 each.
Telephone service has been extended to the greater
portion of the Atlantic coast. The active season on
this coast is from August to May 31st.
Continuous outlook is kept at all stations both by
day and night, with beach patrol during hours of dark-
ness and in foggy or thick weather.
The night-patrol is divided into four watches, one
from sunset imtil 8 p.m., one from 8 to 12, one from 12
to 4, and one from 4 to sunrise. Two surf men are
delegated to each watch. They set out in different
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 307
directions, as near the shore as possible, and walk to
the ends of their respective beats. One patrolling
surfman when he meets another from the next station
gives him a metallic check marked with his station and
crew number, and receives a similar one in exchange.
The checks on the return of the men are delivered
up to the keeper, who keeps a record of their- due
transference.
The magnificent work rendered by this inestimable
service in the saving of human lives and property may
be partially computed from the following analysis:
SECOND DISTRICT, COAST OF MASSACHUSETTS
Documented
Undocu-
mented
Total
Vessels involved
77
192
269
Vessels totally lost
II
4
15
Persons on board
563
518
1,081
Persons lost
3
3
Persons succored at stations
51
44
95
Days' succor afforded
77
44
121
Value of vessels
$562,200
$112,815
$675,015
Value of cargoes
$133,430
$575
$134,005
Total value of property involved
$695,630
$113,390
$809,020
Value of property saved
$586,655
$96,980
$683,635
Value of property lost
$108,975
$16,410
$125,385
The above figures represent the results for the year
19 10, as appearing in the official report with regard to
the Massachusetts coast.
These figures speak for themselves. There is no
branch of the Public Civil Service more entitled to
generous recognition and liberal reward than is the
Life-saving Service. Its officers and crews are happily
exempt from political chicanery, and the unparalleled
and peril-fraught duties which these brave and dauntless
3o8 Nantucket
seafarers have to perform involve no chance of their
positions in any way approaching governmental sine-
cures. These noble, self-sacrificing men are selected
for their noteworthy physical strength and endurance.
In their exercise of perpetual vigilance, heroic devotion,
fidelity to duty, and valorous intrepidity, they are
unrivalled by any other service in the country, and
should at least be as well remunerated as any. Risking
their lives for the good of humanity every day, the
Government should see to it that an ample pension is
provided for the widows and orphans whom they may
leave behind, and for themselves when they are inca-
pacitated for further duty.
Wrecks. Arthur H. Gardner, in his well-known and
authoritative w^ork entitled A List of the Wrecks around
Nantucket, says:
The chapter of wrecks is perhaps one of the saddest as
well as one of the most interesting in the history of Nan-
tucket. Lying as it does directly in the track of vessels
plying between the principal American ports north and
south of the island, the waves which dash upon its barren
shores, or break in angry foam upon the shoals and rips
nearby, have reaped a harvest of shipwreck and death
almost unparalleled elsewhere upon the American coast.
Up to 1877, it has been computed that over five hun-
dred shipwrecks have occurred around the coast of
Nantucket Island from the time of its first settlement
by the white men. This number has at least been
recorded, but how many noble ships, sailing hopefully
and well have unexpectedly struck on to the treacherous
shoals and have become total wrecks, while those on
board have been engulfed within the ruthless deep,
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 309
never to be heard from again until "the sea gives up
its dead"! Floating hither and thither, or sunk in the
pitiless sand, here a rudder, there a broken spar, here
a figure-head, and there a stem-board, are all that
remain to tell, in silence, of the terrible story of those
who "go down to the sea in ships." Imagination can
alone supply the ghastly details of such awe-inspiring
submergences.
So far as the history of the island extends, the first
recorded shipwreck on its shores occurred in 1664, when
a vessel sailing from Martha's Vineyard to Boston
was wrecked at Nantucket, and all on board either
met a watery grave or were massacred by the Indians.
"Amongst those murdered was a Christian Indian,
named Joel, a senior of Harvard College, and son of the
Indian preacher, Hiacomes."'
Between this year and 1800, about thirty shipwrecks
in all are recorded ; but here space will permit particular
reference to only a few of the more important or re-
markable associated with a later period.
From 1664 to 1800, wrecks were comparatively un-
frequent around Nantucket Island, and for several
reasons. At the early period of the white settlement,
and for many years afterwards, the North American
continent was very thinly inhabited, and then only
in a few places. The immigrants were mainly engaged
in agricultural pursuits, and had little if any interest
or experience in seafaring industries beyond the use of
row-boats or canoes for short transit or for fishing
purposes. Commerce on the high seas was excluded
by their environment, and the breaking-up and culti-
vation of the land, added to domestic requirements,
' Arthur H. Gardner, opus cit., to which the writer is much indebted
for many facts in this chapter.
310 Nantucket
almost absolutely monopolized all their care and atten-
tion. This will account for the paucity of wrecks
during most of the first century of their residence in
the New World, and will also serve to explain the
meagerness of the records.
During the first ten years or so of the nineteenth
century, almost as many wrecks had occurred on the
Nantucket coast as during the previous hundred years ;
thus showing how maritime progress had increased
with the increase of population and the opening up of
the country's resources.
Out of the five hundred wrecks recorded by Mr.
Gardner up to 1877, many are of thrilling interest,
and contain the saddest narratives of heroism and of
resignation to the inevitable. One or two may be
referred to here.
On January 21, 18 12, an English ship, Sir Sidney
Smith, a prize to the American privateer General Arm-
strong of New York, struck on Bass Rip, off Siasconset,
and all on board perished within sight of the people on
shore, who were unable to render any assistance. The
crew took refuge in the shrouds, and some, from time
to time, were seen to fall off into the water, as their
strength gave out or as they became numbed with
cold, until, finally, the vessel rolled over and sank,
burying the remainder with her. Notwithstanding
the extreme cold, the mail packet Captain Childs, with
a crew of volunteers, started to their relief, but, on
account of the weather, was compelled to put back.
Nothing was ever recovered from the wreck, although
she had on board a very valuable cargo.
Nov. 27, 1842 (Sunday). Ship Joseph Starhuck left
Nantucket with a favorable breeze, in tow of steamer
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 311
Telegraph for Edgartown, where she was to load and proceed
on a whaHng voyage. There were on board, in addition
to the full complement of hands belonging to her, a number
of ladies who were intending to accompany their friends to
Edgartown before taking final leave of them. The wind
soon came out ahead, and blew so strongly that the steamer
could no longer make any headway. The towlines were
then loosened, and the ship came to anchor within about a
mile of the Tuckernuck Shoal lightboat, while the steamer
returned to the wharf. In the afternoon the wind increased
to a gale, and the ship being light rode so violently that
one chain cable after another parted, and she drove furi-
ously from her moorings in an easterly direction. To pre-
vent her going to sea in her then unprepared condition,
the mizzenmast was cut away, the foresail set, and every
effort made to return to port, but so fiercely was the gale
blowing from the northwest that the attempt failed. The
ship drifted toward the eastern extremity of the Bar until
midnight, when she struck and rolled over, the seas break-
ing over her frightfully, and sending volumes of spray far
above the masthead. Next morning at daybreak she was
discovered from town in this predicament: on her beam
ends, her single sail still offering a mark for the hurricane;
her hulk, with its living freight, lifting and falling with
crushing force. Of course it was immediately resolved
by the townsfolk to put forth every possible effort toward
saving the lives of those on board, and before 9 o'clock
the steamer Massachusetts, manned by a party of volunteers,
was on her way to their relief. To many it seemed a hope-
less adventure. The wreck lay about four miles from town,
and two miles from the nearest strand, while the sea upon
the farther edge of the Bar where she lay, and from the vast
extent of shoals nearby, ran almost mountains high, now
rising into columns of angry foam, and anon leaving the
subjacent ground nearly bare of water. Nevertheless,
the steamer plunged through the accumulated perils before
her, and in half an hour was made fast to the lee-side of the
312 Nantucket
ill-fated vessel by a warp necessarily of considerable length.
The paddles were kept backing sufficiently to keep the hne
taut, and the people on board the ship, to the number of
thirty-five, were taken off by means of a single whale-boat,
which passed to and fro no less than five times, transferred
to the steamer, and returned to their friends in town, who
had suffered the most intense anxiety. So excessively cold
was the weather that the decks and rigging of the ship were
coated with ice.
The Joseph Starbuck was a beautiful and highly valued
ship. She was built at Brant Point in 1838, of live oak,
and was copper fastened. She had made but one vo3^age,
and had now been fitted out for a second in the most liberal
manner. The vessel was insured for $24,000.
The ship eventually went to pieces, nothing of any
material value being saved.
Two of the most lamentable and terrible wrecks
recorded as occurring on the Nantucket coast happened
about the same time, during December, 1865, viz: those
of the liaynes and the Newton. They are thus de-
scribed by Mr, Arthur H. Gardner:
December 22d, schooner Haynes, of and for Boston,
from the "West Indies, loaded with logwood, ran ashore at
the south side of the island, near the head of Hummock
Pond. The crew abandoned her, and perished in attempting
to reach the shore. Had they remained on board all would
have been saved. On the following Sunday, a body iden-
tified as that of the steward was found upon the beach.
The cause of her getting ashore was unknown, but it was
supposed that her captain mistook Sankaty light for Gay
Head, and ran accordingly. The position of the vessel
warranted this conjecture, as she lay about as far west of
Sankaty as she should be from Gay Head on entering
Vineyard Sound. Her cargo was discharged and carted
to town, but the vessel went to pieces.
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 313
December 25th, ship Newton, Captain F. G. Herting, of
and for Hamburg, from New York, with a cargo of kerosene,
staves, rosin, fustic, etc., went to pieces early in the morning
on the south side of the island, to the eastward of Madde-
quecham Pond. One of the crew was found about half-a-
mile inland, naked, with his face buried in the sand. He
had probably reached the shore by swimming and started
for the nearest house, but perished on the way. He was
about twenty-five or thirty years of age. On his right arm
were the initials "J. K." marked with India ink, and on his
left arm "C. U." He was afterwards identified as the
second mate of the Newton. The beach for miles to the
eastward of the wreck was covered with fragments, appar-
ently the result of an explosion, which many thought must
have occurred, and everything seemed to favor such an
opinion. Large spars were broken off short, as was also
an iron truss about the size of a man's arm, and a large
iron tank lay high upon the beach, one or two hundred
yards from the wreck. The breakers were filled with bar-
rels of kerosene, fragments of broken barrels, and other
articles of which her cargo consisted, while her iron hull
itself seemed to be crushed like an egg-shell, into a shapeless
mass. Startling coincidence that within a little more than
forty-eight hours, two vessels should thus land on our
shores, and not a soul survive to tell the mournful story.
Many conjectures were rife as to the cause of both disasters,
but as there was not a single survivor spared to tell the
tale, the whole affair must always remain shrouded in
mystery.
Along the line of the beach, stretching as far as Quidnet,
dead bodies were to be seen floating in the surf, and after-
wards thrown upon the sands. Seventeen bodies in all were
washed ashore, the most of which were identified as belong-
ing to the Newton. These were entombed in the Unitarian
burying-ground, and afterwards buried side by side, each
grave being numbered according to the order in which the
body came ashore. Very solemn and imposing ceremonies
314 Nantucket
were conducted in the Methodist church on the following
Sunday afternoon, after which the citizens, with others
who were inclined, formed in front of t e church and walked
to the cemetery, where hundreds, including many ladies,
gathered round the tomb to pay their last tributes of respect
to the unknown dead. Upon evidence furnished by the
ship's agent, it was ascertained that Captain Herting was
a freemason, and his remains were taken in charge by
"Union Lodge," and buried from their room the following
afternoon with masonic rites.
The Newton was an iron ship of 699 tons burthen, and
nearly new, having made but one voyage. About 2200
barrels of kerosene, together with a quantity of fustic, etc.,
were saved, and the wreck was subsequently sold at auction,
as she lay, to New Bedford purchasers for $510.'
A few more recent wrecks may be briefly referred to
as affording the highest possible testimony to the self-
sacrificing bravery, and endurance of the heroic men
who constitute the crews of the Life-saving Service
which guards our Atlantic coast.
To the ever alert Coskata crew came the report of a
flashlight having been seen on the night of January 20,
1892, in the direction of the Rose and Crown Shoal.
With no object to guide them, and unable to see their
course, these fearless fellows shot their boat into the
seething ocean, and hastened with all their might for
twelve miles, before the wind, until they came up with
an English ship, the H. P. Kirkham, in distress, from
which, but one hour before the time she sank, to rise
no more, they rescued seven men. But this was not
all; for the life-savers had now fourteen men in their
boat, the wind was dead ahead, and it was only after
' Some details of awful whaling experiences will be found in Chap-
ter VI.
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 315
perhaps the fiercest struggle on record, lasting almost
twenty-four hours, that they succeeded in landing
themselves and those whom they had rescued on their
own sandy shore. Such a feat cannot be erased from
history, and it is almost needless to say that their
gallant rescue was rewarded by medals of honor from
the Humane Society.
Another wreck, but one, alas, from which it was
possible to save only two lives, was that of the schooner
/. B. Wither spoon, which was stranded near Surf -Side
on January 10, 1886. It was impossible to launch the
life-saving boat in such a sea, but the men were deter-
mined to save if possible, and actually shot a life-line
over the doomed vessel five times before any of the crew
could avail themselves of it. There were nine souls
on board, but of these only two were saved, although
the life-savers stood by the vessel nearly all day, doing
their utmost.
On the night of February l, 1908, a terrible stormy
night with a below zero temperature, keeper Norcross
of the Coskata Life-saving Station discovered a vessel
drifting to destruction toward the bar, nearly in front
of his own station. The patrols were called in, and the
surf -boat was got ready ; but no boat could be launched
in such tumbling furious seas, and the darkness was
intense. Carting the larger of the two surf-boats to
a point on the beach directly to leeward of the drifting
ship, the crew waited for an hour, while the cruel wind
stung and cut their faces. As daylight broke, the
word was given to launch, and every man sprang to his
station, but at every attempt to float the boat they
were hurled back upon the beach. Again and again
they tried, but with similar results, and with their
clothing frozen and covered with ice, they could only
3i6 Nantucket
wait for a slight lull in the gale. They could see the
waves strike the brow of the wreck, a mile away, and
they watched the spray fly in clouds almost mast-high.
A fishing steamer sailed up the inner harbor about
noon, on board of which was the well known Captain
Jesse Eldredge, a former member of the Coskata crew,
and one of the best surfmen on the island. He volun-
teered to assist, and Captain Norcross gladly accepted
his service. With a vigorous and united effort they at
length vsucceeded in launching the boat; while the icy
water flew over the living freight, drenching the crew
through and through, and nearly half-filling the
boat, and after an hour's hard work they reached the
brig. To board the endangered craft was impossible,
but they worked the boat under the lee, and took off
the Captain and crew of nine men, the Captain's wife,
and a year-old babe. They began the return journey,
which was safely accomplished. The rescued family
and crew were soon made comfortable, and the brig
turned out to be the Fredericka Schepp, belonging to
Mystic, Conn., sailing from South Amboy to Vinal
Haven with coal.
On December i6th and 17th, 19 10, during a tempestu-
ous sea and zero atmosphere, associated with a sixty-
mile gale, Captain Norcross and his men were called
out of their warm cots. Shortly before 3 a.m., one of
the night patrols had seen a light about a mile and a
half from the shore, and had hastened to give the
alarm. With a cheer the men ran their boat out, and
with some difficulty managed to launch her, and by
daybreak had rescued the crew and the mate (who
had sustained an accident and couldn't help himself).
The vessel was the Thomas B. Garland, bound for
Salem with a cargo of hard coal.
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 317
Once more, on November 16, 191 1, a call came from
Superintendent Bowley of the 2d Life-saving Station,
Cape Cod, saying a small vessel was in distress off
Nantucket. Keeper Norcross sped to the lighthouse
and saw the vessel about four miles from the shore.
The wind was blowing a gale, and the surf was terrible.
All day long he tried to launch the boat but foun,d it
impossible, and just as he was preparing to spend the
night on the shore a telegram came from Superintendent
Bowley saying that a crew from Monomoy (on the
Cape Cod shore) had boarded the vessel.
About 2.30 A.M., the following morning. Captain
Norcross, in accompanying the night patrol, discovered
a vessel in distress on Great Point Rip. Telephoning
to the station for his men, they arrived duly after a
three hours' run, and with strenuous efforts got the
boat through the breakers. The men were drenched
with the icy water. They had never before experienced
such wind or such a sea, so terrific that the oars were
frequently blown out of the oarlocks, and it was impos-
sible for the men to row together. They found their
boat drifting, and, after struggling for three hours,
they made for the shore once more, and effected a
landing about a mile from where they had started.
They got out their horse and truck, loaded their gear
and dragged it back to the starting point once more.
They felt there was not a moment to rest, as the masts
of the vessel were liable to fall at any moment, and
render all efforts to save the men or the ship impossible.
They had been working five hours without a let-up,
yet, when the boat was ready, the men (shivering in
their wet clothes) were ready to start with a will. The
tide had changed somewhat and the launching was
more easily managed. With blistered and bleeding
31 8 Nantucket
hands the men never relaxed an effort until they had
reached the goal, and every frozen man in the rigging
had dropped into their boat, safe at last !
The vessel was the Charles S. Wolston, Macauley,
master, with a mate, cook, and three sailors.
Such is a part of the record of the Coskata Life-
saving Station, which has no habitation nearer than
the lighthouse, two miles and a half away ; for the town
is eight miles distant. While it is one of the most
exposed and desolate stations on the coast, a portion
of the ocean side of the island being under the
protection of Captain Norcross and his men, the
territory he controls is one of the largest on the New
England coast. ^
What has just been said of the Coskata life-savers is
equally applicable to those of Surf-Side, Great Neck,
and Muskeget; when danger is in sight the men are
always ready to spring into their surf -boats, and what-
ever men can do they will dare and do.
Thirty thousand vessels pass through Nantucket
Sound annually, and Coatue makes a lee shore for all
in a north or northwesterly gale. How many crews
on those thousands of vessels feel their courage rise
and their hearts throb with gratitude when they realize
that, amid the treacherous, complicated shoals of
Nantucket — which constitute perhaps the most peril-
ous danger-bed around the Atlantic coast — the steady
eyes of loyal life-savers are looking after the welfare
and safety of their ships, by day and by night, every
hour of the twenty -four, and who are ever ready at a
moment's notice to hasten to their relief, fearless of
either danger or death, in the discharge of their self-
" Compiled from paper, by Simon J. Nevins, in Nantucket Inquirer
and Mirror, January 20, 1912.
Life-Saving Service and Wrecks 319
sacrificing duty, and ready either to succor them or die
in the attempt! All honor to the noble Life-saving
Service !
"Greater love hath no man than this, — that a man
lay down his life for his friend."
CHAPTER XVII
the island steamers
By Harry B. Turner
Eleven years after Robert Fulton proved the practi-
cability and feasibility of navigation by steam, the
island of Nantucket was enjoying steamboat service
with the mainland for the first time. Nantucket was
then one of the leading ports on the coast, and it was
in line with the progressive spirit of the islanders that
the little steamer Eagle — a crude craft, to be sure, but
at that time considered a big improvement over Ful-
ton's Clermont, and in comparison "very fast and sea-
worthy" — was built to operate across Nantucket
Sound only a few months after the first steamboat had
been seen in Boston harbor. Who the promoters of
this first steamboat project were is not known — that
much of the first venture has been lost to history — but
it is safe to state that they were men closely allied with
Nantucket.
The Eagle was an awkward little boat of eighty tons,
and was built at New London, Ct., miaking her first
trip over to Nantucket on the 5th of May, 1818. For
several months, she made trips between the island and
New Bedford, and oh the 30th of July made a "record"
320
The Island Steamers 321
of eight hours and seven minutes for the passage. The
Eagle was 92 feet long, 17.8 feet beam, and was equipped
with two copper boilers, burning wood for fuel.
It is not surprising that this first steamboat venture
was not a financial success. Nantucketers were not
ready to patronize "steam" in preference to "sail,"
and as the cost of operation was heavy, the promoters
abandoned the project the latter part of September.
The boat was sold for service between Boston and
Hingham, where she was operated until the year 1821,
when she was sold for junk, the copper boilers bringing
more than they cost when new.
From the time the Eagle left Nantucket on the 21st
of September, 1818, sijj: years elapsed before a second
attempt was made to inaugurate successful steamboat
service across the Sound. On the 20th of May, 1824,
a Nantucket man named Captain R. S. Bunker, brought
the steamer Connecticut to the island and endeavored to
create enough enthusiasm and support among the
islanders to form a company for her operation as a
passenger and freight boat between the island and New
Bedford. Bunker's project was turned down, however,
and four years more elapsed before another attempt
was made.
In the spring of 1828, the steamer Hamilton was put
on the route in command of a Vineyard Haven man,
the project having been started by New Bedford capi-
talists. The Hamilton was even more of a failure than
the Eagle, being unable to make any headway against a
head wind or tide, and therefore able to travel only when
conditions were favorable. She was a craft of only
fifty tons, and her principal fuel was tar barrels, of
which Nantucket and New Bedford could each furnish
a generous amount in those days. The Hamilton's
322 Nantucket
service was even shorter than the Eaglets, her last trip
being made in August, 1828.
It remained for Jacob Barker, the famous merchant
— who, by the way, assisted Robert Fulton in his earlier
project, importing from London the first steam-engine
used in the propulsion of vessels — to inaugurate the
first actually successful steamboat line across Nan-
tucket Sound. Barker was of Nantucket lineage and
deeply interested in the island, and, firm in the belief
that a suitable steamer would receive the support of
the islanders, he had the Marco Bozzaris built and placed
her in service in April, 1829, under command of his
nephew. Captain Edward H. Barker.
The Marco Bozzaris proved the marked foresight of
Jacob Barker, for she was successfully operated be-
tween Nantucket and New Bedford for four years, and
was withdrawn only when the merchants of Nantucket,
brought to the realization that "steam" had come to
stay, were ready to form a company among themselves
and have a larger boat built for the service. Jacob
Barker lent his assistance, both personal and financial,
to the islanders' scheme, and, as a result, the steamer
Telegraph was built and placed in operation in October,
1832, under command of the same Edward H. Barker
who was captain of the Bozzaris. The new steamer was
built especially for the Nantucket service, with a bow
well-fitted for battling with the ice in the winter, being
of 171 tons, 120 feet long and 19 feet 6 inches beam.
She had copper boilers, and burned wood for fuel, as
did her predecessor. The Telegraph really proved
herself an able boat in every way, and remained in
service in Nantucket waters twenty-three years.
The Nantucket Steamboat Company, which was
formed when the Telegraph was built in 1832, ten years
The Island Steamers 323
later had a second steamer constructed, naming her
the Massachusetts and expending $40,000 on her. She
was of 308 tons, 161 feet long and 23 feet beam, and,
with the Telegraph, became prominent in wrecking
operations around Nantucket Island, as well as in the
operation of regular passenger and freight service
between the island and the mainland. In those days,
"tugs" were unknown, and it was expected that the
island steamers were to go to vessels wrecked or in
distress, abandoning their regular service at such times,
the proceeds from such exploits often netting the owners
of the steamers immense sums of money in salvage.
The year after the Massachusetts came in service
(1843) the passenger travel had increased to such an
extent that the company was operating both the Tele-
graph and Massachusetts, the former running to Woods
Hole and the latter to New Bedford. This scheme
proved to be a losing venture, however, and the Tele-
graph was thereafter used only as a spare boat.
Some of the wrecking operations of the old steamers
were fraught with great danger, especially when the
Island Home was first in service. This steamer, which
made a history for herself in a long and hard career,
was built in 1855 to run on the route between Nantucket
and Hyannis, and she had some very thrilling experi-
ences, both in going to distressed vessels and in battling
with heavy storms and the winter ice-fields.
She first came to Nantucket on the 5th of September,
1855, having been built according to the views of
the Nantucket men who had formed themselves into the
Nantucket & Cape Cod Steamboat Company, for the
purpose of opening up the Hyannis route. Her first
commander was Captain Thomas Brown, but in the
real history the Island Home made for herself. Captain
324 Nantucket
Nathan Manter was at the helm, and the name of the
boat and her genial skipper will long live in the memory
of all Nantucketers. The old steamer, with her bluff
but good-natured skipper, fought many a battle with
the elements, weathered many a gale, butted many
an ice-field, and won more laurels than any craft which
ever traversed Nantucket Sound. She ended her days
as a coal barge, being sold by the local steamboat line
in 1895.
In July, 1858 — having outlived their usefulness on
the island route — the steamers Telegraph and Massa-
chusetts left Nantucket for good, the Massachusetts
towing the Telegraph, both boats having been sold to
New Jersey parties. What became of the Telegraph is
not known, but it is presumed she went to the junk-
heap. The Massachusetts, however, was rebuilt, and,
under the name of the John D. W. Pentz, saw service
during the Civil War, resuming, at its close, her former
name, and plying the waters of Chesapeake Bay as a
passenger boat until the early eighties.
In 1873, steamer River Queen was placed in service
on the Nantucket route as a sister ship to the Island
Home, the two-boats-a-day schedule being inaugurated
the following summer for the first time. The River
Queen was built in 1864, and, during the closing year
of the Civil War, was used by General Grant as his
private dispatch boat on the Potomac River. It was on
board her that the celebrated conference was held
between President Lincoln of the United States and
A. H. Stephens, Vice-President of the Confederacy.
The River Queen was continued in service on the Nan-
tucket route until 1881, and ended her days as an ex-
cursion steamer, on the Potomac River.
While Nantucket had its own steamboat company,
The Island Steamers 325
operating its own steamers independent of Martha's
Vineyard ownership, the Nantucket steamers, for
many years, had been stopping at the Vineyard on the
way down from New Bedford. Therefore, when the
route was shifted from New Bedford to Hyannis it
resulted in the formation of a rival line — the "Martha
Vineyard Steamboat Company," in 1851, and three
years later, the "New Bedford, Vineyard & Nantucket
Steamboat Company." The stock of the new com-
pany was largely owned in New Bedford, and the
promoters determined to make every possible effort
to prevent Nantucket's service from being transferred
from that city to Hyannis, as seemed probable when
the Island Home was being built.
The new company constructed the steamer Eagle's
Wing, and, while the finishing touches were being made
to the boat, placed in service the steamer George Law.
The Eagle's Witig was not ready and in commission
until October 23, 1854, when she made a trip to Nan-
tucket in com.mand of Captain James Barker. Nan-
tucket gave its patronage to the Isla^id Home, however,
with the result that the Eagle's Wing was running at
a loss, and she was kept on the Nantucket route but two
years, then being operated between New Bedford and Ed-
gartown. She ended her days in 1861, when she caught
fire on the Providence River and was totally destroyed.
Between 1840 and 1870 the steamers which were
operating on the route between New Bedford and
Edgartown occasionally came over to Nantucket,
although not in service on this line. Among them were
the Naushon, Metacomet, Canonicus, and Helen Augusta,
and, a few days after the great fire of 1846, a steamer
called the Bradford Diirjee came to Nantucket from
Fall River with provisions for the stricken inhabitants.
326 . Nantucket
In 1856-57, Nantucket had in service between the
island and New York, a propeller steamer, which was
called the Jersey Blue, commanded by Captain Nathan
Kelley of Nantucket. She was owned by Nantucketers
but was not a paying investment, although she was
used occasionally in towing vessels up and down the
Sound. One other propeller came to Nantucket a few
years before — the Osceola — but only as an excursion
boat.
Not until the Monohansett was built in 1862, to
replace the Eagle's Wing, was either of the Vineyard
steamers a familiar figure on the Nantucket route.
The Monohansett, however, came to Nantucket many
times during her career, both as an extra boat and to
force ice blockades, but the greater part of her service
was on the Vineyard route. In 1904, she was wrecked
and totally lost in Salem Harbor.
The Martha's Vineyard, built in 1871, is still in
service — one of the oldest steamers in these parts,
although now used as a spare boat. She is 171 feet
long and 28 feet beam.
In 1886, the rival companies — "Nantucket & Cape
Cod Steamboat Company" and "New Bedford, Vine-
yard & Nantucket Steamboat Company" — consoli-
dated, the new company taking the name of the "New
Bedford, Martha's Vineyard & Nantucket Steamboat
Company," as at present. The new concern immedi-
ately commenced the construction of the steamer Nayi-
tucket, which made her first trip to the island in July,
1886. She is of 629 gross tons, 190 feet long and 33
feet beam, and has been in almost continual service for
over twenty-seven years, being rebuilt three years ago.
Steamer Gay Head was built in 1891, and is of 701
tons, 203 feet long, and 34 feet beam. She made her
The Island Steamers 327
first trip on July 8, 1891, under command of Captain
A. P. Bartow.
Steamer Uncatena was built in 1902 for the Edgar-
town route, but each year has been making "alternating
trips" to Nantucket with one of the other steamers.
She is the first steel boat built for the island route, is
of 652 tons, 187 feet long and 31 feet beam.
The latest addition to the fleet is the steel propeller
Sankaty, built in 191 1. She is 191 feet long and 36
feet deck beam, and her service has opened the ques-
tion of whether or no side-wheel boats or propellers
are best fitted for this service. Owing to lack of water
inside of Brant Point, it was impossible to make the
Sankaty of as deep draft as was desired, but with the
harbor improvements contemplated, it is probable
that by the time the company is ready to build another
steamer, sufficient water can be "carried" into the
wharf to permit at least three feet to be added to the
draft of new boats. This would in a large measure
tend to remove whatever objectionable features there
may be, at present, to the service of a propeller steamer
across Nantucket Sound.
It is now ninety-five years since the little Eagle
ploughed its way across Nantucket Sound and opened
up steam navigation between Nantucket and the main-
land. The changes that have occurred during that
period have been many. Nantucket reached its zenith
as a whaling port, suffered a decline and dropped, for
a time, almost into obscurity; yet, withal, the steam-
boat service kept constantly improving, and with the
"rejuvenation " which came when the island commenced
to develop as a summer resort in the seventies, new
and modern steamers were built and the service steadily
improved. To-day, the island, thirty miles out at pea,
328 Nantucket
enjoys daily connections with the mainland from Octo-
ber to June and twice daily connections from June to
October, over fifty thousand passengers crossing the
Sound during the twelve months of each year.
CHAPTER XVIII
the newspapers of nantucket
By Harry B. Turner
With the enterprise characteristic of Nantucket in
the early part of the eighteenth century, the first of
the island newspapers was bom in 1816. It was called
The Gazette and was issued for the first time on Monday,
May 6th, with Abraham G. Tannant and Hiram Tupper
as its publishers. Its pages were 12 x 20 inches in
size, five columns wide, and the first sheet printed was
purchased, for the sum of fifty cents, by Sylvanus
Macy, who was anxious to own the first copy of a
newspaper issued on Nantucket, The Gazette was
printed in a building which stood on the corner of
Main (then State) and Water Streets, and sold "for
$2.50 per annum," yet it did not survive a full year,
being issued but thirty-six times, its last being on the
1st day of February, 1817, when it died from want of
patronage.
A few months later Mr. Tannant took on renewed
courage, and from the ruins of The Gazette issued a lox 12
sheet which he called The Nantucket Weekly Magazine.
This tiny weekly covered four pages of three columns
each and was "devoted to literary and com.mercial
329
330 Nantucket
reading. It was published every Saturday evening,
its first issue being on June 28, 18 17, and its last on
January 3, 181 8, when Mr. Tannant gave up his news-
paper efforts in despair, printing the following an-
nouncement in his last issue :
It is with extreme regret that we announce to our readers
that with this paper the publication of The Nantucket Weekly
Magazine and our labors as Editor, Publisher, et cetera,
at Nantucket, cease. Imperious custom demands from
us some few remarks in regard to the decline of the paper.
The local situation of Nantucket, the still more local views
of its inhabitants, and the evident want of popular excite-
ment, commingled, are the ostensible causes of its failure;
and our repeated trial will warrant us in the remark that
until a paper shall be better appreciated and more public
spirit manifested, there can be no hope of a similar enter-
prise hereafter.
The first issues of The Weekly Magazine were quite
readable, however, for among other things they con-
tained some interesting private correspondence of Dr.
Benjamin Franklin, published by his grandson, William
Temple Franklin. In perusing the copies of this little
paper, one can see at a glance that its editor and pub-
lisher was using his best efforts to make it interesting
to his readers, and was bravely striving to "make
good"; but in this last he failed.
Mr. Tannant's rather pessimistic farewell when he
retired from the newspaper field doubtless prevented
any more attempts to launch a successful newspaper
on Nantucket for the three succeeding years, but, in
1 82 1, Joseph C. Melcher laid the foundation of what
became a permanent institution — a newspaper which
he called The Inquirer and which has survived the
The Newspapers of Nantucket 331
trials and vicissitudes of over ninety years, to-day being
known as The Inquirer and Mirror. Joseph Melcher
was only the publisher of The Inquirer, however, for he
had associated with him, as editor, Samuel Haynes Jenks,
than whom no more talented and forceful writer ever filled
the editorial chair on Nantucket Island. The first issue
of The Inquirer was dated June 23 , 1 82 1 , and it contained
a two-column announcement signed by Mr. Melcher, in
which he outlined his intentions and the policies he
would pursue in the publication of the little newspaper.
The size of the page was 12 x 20 inches, four columns
to the page, and the files of the paper are in excellent
condition to this day, considering the lapse of years.
In 1823, Mr. Jenks assumed full control of The
Inquirer and for over twenty years he ably filled the
position of editor and publisher, by his efforts doing
much for the benefit and development of Nantucket.
Mr. Jenks was one of Nantucket's brilliant men — a
gentleman and a scholar in every sense. In writing
of the successful efforts of Mr. Jenks in the publication
of The Inquirer, the late William Hussey Macy said :
The Inquirer grew rapidly and acquired more than a
local reputation, Mr. Jenks was a live editor, a ready and
vigorous writer, and an earnest and fearless advocate of
what he believed to be the right side of each current issue.
Although not a native of Nantucket, he was for so many
years closely identified with the town in all that concerned
its prosperity that he is deserving a place among its distin-
guished men and women. It was doubtless through his
persistent efforts with pen and voice that public schools
were established on Nantucket.
Five years after its birth, The Inquirer had a rival,
The Nantucket Journal having been started by William
332 Nantucket
H. Bigelow, a Boston man who moved to the island.
The Journal was first issued on the 14th of September,
1826, but the paper survived only thirty-eight issues,
passing out of existence on June i, 1827. The Journal
was the only contemporary The Inquirer had until the
year 1840, and during that period the latter was issued
not only as a weekly, but as a semi-weekly and, for a
few months, as a tri- weekly. Between the years 1830
and 1840, Mr. Jenks was assisted in the publication of
the paper by G. F. Bemis, T. J. Worth, Charles C. Hill,
John Morissey, and William A. Jenks, respectively, and,
for a brief period in the early 30' s, he relinquished the
editorial chair to Charles Bunker. The Inquirer was
one of the old Whig papers and strongly opposed the
re-election of General Jackson (who was, however,
re-elected, although Nantucket gave him but fourteen
votes, and was thereby called "the banner Whig town").
During the thirties The Inquirer wandered from place
to place for its home. It was first printed in a back
room of the second story of a building owned by Wil-
liam Coffin, which stood on the comer of Main and
Candle Streets. The lower part of this building was
then the post-office, with George W. Ewer as post-
master.
In 1830, The Inquirer moved to a three-story build-
ing owned by Charles G. Stubbs, where the shop of
C. W. Ellis now stands on Water Street. It then
moved to the building of Philip H. Folger, and, in 1833,
went to a building standing on the west comer of Main
and Federal Streets, where it remained but a few
months. Then it again moved, this time taking up
its residence in a building erected by F. F. Hussey,
on Union Street. In 1836, Mr. Jenks having built a
residence on Union Street, the office was transferred
The Newspapers of Nantucket 333
to a small building on Coffin Street, near the head of
Commercial wharf. The transfer was made just in
time to escape disaster in the Washington House fire,
which also destroyed the building belonging to Mr.
Hussey, vacated by The Inquirer a day or two before.
The Inquirer continued to be published on Coffin
Street up to the year 1841, when William A. Jenks
assumed control on the ist of April, and moved the
office to the new building of Frederick Hussey on Main
Street. The paper was sold to Hiram B. Dennis in
December of the same year, and Mr. Dennis continued
in charge until August 12, 1843, when John Morissey
assumed the editorship.
In the year 1840, Nantucket's fifth newspaper, and
The Inquirer's second rival, appeared in the shape of
The Islander, a purely Democratic medium which was
financed by the island Democrats, who at that period
numbered quite strong. The editor of The Islander
was Charles C. Hazewell, a young man from the Boston
Post, who afterwards won considerable fame for his
writings. Hazewell was a vigorous writer, and he did
yeoman's work for the Democratic party during the
fierce political campaign which resulted in the election
of General Harrison to the Presidency. During the
anti-slavery troubles of the next year or two, when
attempts were made to prevent the abolitionists from
holding meetings in Nantucket, The Islander cham-
pioned the cause of the lecturers and dealt vigorous
blows against those who attempted to break up the
meetings. The paper was printed in a building which
stood on the comer of Cambridge Street and Coal
Lane, until March, 1843, when it was discontinued.
The equipment of The Islander was purchased by
two young aspirants for journalistic honors — Woodbury
334 Nantucket
Bradford and Alexander B. Robinson — who commenced
the pubHcation of Tlie Weekly Telegraph in the same
building, in June, 1844. Soon after the first publica-
tion of the weekly, they commenced issuing a daily,
which was the first daily paper ever printed on Nan-
tucket. The Telegraph' s enterprise caused The Inquirer
to follow suit and for a time both papers were issued
daily, with the result that neither was a paying propo-
sition. Both papers were purchased by Edward W.
Cobb in 1845, who continued publishing The Inquirer
for ten years.
After an absence from the loci 1 newspaper field of
only a few months, John Morissey returned to Nan-
tucket in 1845, and commenced the publication of The
Weekly Mirror in opposition to The Inquirer, which
he formerly edited. The Mirror met with excellent
success at the start, and for several months a bitter
rivalry was waged between it and The Inquirer, but,
on December 27, 1845, a third paper made its debut
in Nantucket, "making it hard scratching for a living
for all three," as Edward W. Cobb said when reciting
his newspaper experiences a half century afterward.
The third paper, called The Weekly Warder, was
published by William C. Starbuck and edited by
Samuel Haynes Jenks, the former editor of The Inquirer.
Thus the old Inquirer was up against stiff competition
with two live contemporaries and each edited by one
of its former editors, and when the "great fire" occurred
in July, 1846, there were three newspaper offices doing
active business in Nantucket.
This memorable conflagration destroyed the plants
of both The Inquirer and The Mirror, but each re-
covered from the disaster, issuing single 7x9 sheets for
several weeks from temporary offices. The Warder,
The Newspapers of Nantucket 335
the only one of the three papers which withstood the
fire unharmed, had but a short Hfe, for it was in exist-
ence less than two years. It is recorded that w^hile
the fire was still in progress the wife of Samuel Haynes
Jenks (who was a worthy helpmeet to him in his news-
paper work), her husband being away from the island,
wrote an account of the conflagration, hurried to The
Warder's office, set her story in type, and ran off an
edition giving the brief details of the disaster. Air.
Jenks, in later years, offered large sums of money for
a copy of this little sheet, but he was unable to secure
one.
After the fire of 1846, Edward W. Cobb issued The
Inquirer from a little school-house on Flora Street, in
the south part of the town, later moving to the rear
part of Thomas B. Paddock's store, and finally to
Valentine Hussey's new brick block on Main Street.
Seven weeks after his plant had been destroyed by the
fire, Mr. Cobb issued The Inquirer, restored to its former
size and appearance. The flames had wiped out all
he possessed in the world, but with the assistance of
friends he borrowed money enough to purchase a new
equipment, and on August 31, 1846, issued The Inquirer
in its old familiar form. That he fully realized the
difficult task set before him, is apparent from the fol-
lowing paragraph which appeared in that issue:
We recommence our publishing deeply involved in debt.
The proprietor of this paper lost his all by the fire, and he
has been forced to replenish his office entirely on credit.
His real struggle is just commencing, for, with but little to
depend upon beyond the receipts of The Inquirer, he has
got, within a few months, to raise funds to make some
heavy payments.
336 Nantucket
However, for ten years Edward W. Cobb maintained
his struggle, but in July, 1855, the control of the paper
passed into the hands of John Morissey and Alexander
P. Moore, who published The Inquirer over the firm
name of Morissey & Moore. At the time of the '46 fire,
JVIr. Morissey was publishing The Mirror, and, as soon
as he could get a temporary plant together, he had
renewed publication over the grocery store of Frederick
A. Chase on Union Street, issuing a little 7x9 sheet
until he could make a complete recovery. In 1849,
when Morissey decided to go to California, he sold
The Mirror to Samuel S. Hussey and Henry D. Robin-
son, who published it over the firm name of Hussey &
Robinson. Mr. Morissey remained in California six
years, and it was upon his return home that he again
entered the newspaper field by purchasing his former
rival, The Inquirer, from Edward W. Cobb, and,
associated with Moore, he continued its publication
until 1858, when he retired.
After the retirement of Morissey, The Inquirer was
published by Moore for nearly three years, he serving
as both editor and publisher. In 1861, however, the
paper passed into the control of William H. Beekman
as publisher, with Edward M. Gardner as editor. In
the spring of 1863, Alfred Macy assumed the editorial
chair of The Inquirer and continued there until April i ,
1865, when Hussey & Robinson, of The Mirror, pur-
chased the plant, good will, etc., of The Inquirer, from
William R. Easton, and merged it with their own publi-
cation under the name of The Inquirer and Mirror.
For nine years after the union of the two papers,
The Inquirer and Mirror was the only newspaper pub-
lished on Nantucket. In 1874, however, Isaac H.
Folger started The Island Review, in the block on the
The Newspapers of Nantucket 337
west corner of Main and Federal Streets, running it
weekly for a time, then semi- weekly, at times tri-
weekly, and even daily for a brief period. Later, he
moved the plant to Center Street, and S. Heath Rich,
now editor of the Brockton Enterprise, became asso-
ciated with Mr. Folger on The Review, and they con-
tinued publishing the paper until the autumn of 1878,
when they purchased The Advance, in Brockton, and
removed a portion of their equipment to that place.
With the field thus left open for another newspaper,
Arthur H. Gardner, a graduate of The Inqiiirer and
Mirror office, immediately entered the opening, and
issued the first number of The Nantucket Journal (the
second of that name) from the ante-rooms of Pantheon
Hall (over what is now Congdon's drug store) on the
26th of September, 1878. Mr. Gardner later removed
the plant to the brick block on Main Street, over Jer-
negan's periodical store, continuing its publication as
a weekly until November 23, 1899, when it was dis-
continued.
Samuel S. Hussey and Henry D. Robinson continued
publishing The Inquirer and Mirror until 1877, when
the former retired from the business in favor of his son,
Roland B. Hussey, who continued the partnership with
Mr. Robinson, under the old firm name of Hussey & Rob-
inson, until September, 1887, when Mr. Robinson retired.
In June, 1878, the newspaper plant was moved to
the rooms on the upper floor of the brick block on the
east comer of Main and Orange Streets, where it con-
tinued publication until May, 1890, when it was again
moved to a building erected for its use on Milk Street,
remaining there ten years. In October, 1900, the
paper moved to its present quarters in Folger Block,
comer of Main and Orange Streets.
33^ Nantucket
For twenty years after the retirement of Henry D.
Robinson from the firm, The Inquirer and Mirror was
pubUshed and edited by Roland B. Hussey, whose
efforts brought the paper up to a high standard as a
country weekly. In July, 1907, Mr. Hussey retired
from the business, and was succeeded by Arthur H.
Cook and Harry B. Turner, under the firm name of
Cook & Turner, the present publishers.
The plant of The Inquirer and Mirror has gradually,
but steadily, become modernized. Prior to 1887, its
press was laboriously turned by means of a hand-crank,
but in that year the first mechanical power was in-
stalled — a one-horse kerosene engine — and since that
time numerous further improvements in power have
been made.
In 1890, a modem cylinder press was installed, and
shortly afterwards an automatic folding-machine was
added; and in 1902 the first type-setting machine on
the island was installed, the first issue of The Inquirer
and Mirror under machine composition being on the
29th of March. Other modem appliances have since
been added to the mechanical equipment, the while
an earnest and painstaking effort has been made to
maintain the standard of newspaper inaugurated by
Samuel Haynes Jenks ninety-odd years ago.
Having had many contemporaries since The Inquirer
was first published in 1821, The Inquirer and Mirror
is now alone in the newspaper field on Nantucket and
is considered one of the island's "institutions," making
its weekly visits to every quarter of the globe.
The last daily paper published on Nantucket was
The Sconset Visitor, issued from the Journal office
during the summer of 1889. The previous season
The Sconset Pump had been issued as a daily from The
The Newspapers of Nantucket 339
Inquirer and Mirror office, but neither was a paying
investment, and each was a diminutive affair.
In 1873, S. Heath Rich issued an amateur journal
from a small hand press, it being a four-page sheet,
8>^ X 12 inches, called The Magnet, two columns to a
page, six inches long. Later in the seventies Fred
V. Fuller also issued a little paper which he called The
Sherburne News, which flourished for a brief period.
For amateur journals these were both very creditable
productions.
CHAPTER XIX
IN THE DREDGE-NET*
The Town-House and Town-Meeting. The original
civic assembly-hall on Nantucket was a room in the
house of Nathaniel and Mary Starbuck, which was
known as the "Parliament House," and was instituted
about 1667.
In 1707, a vote was passed that "the Town-house
should be repaired." In 17 16, an order was made that
certain notices should be "posted on the door of town-
house." In this year, also, the town voted to "build
a town-house 34 feet long, and 24 feet wide," and the
site of this has been localized as having been on the
south side of West Center Street, nearly north of No-
Bottom Pond. It thus appears that the town-house
was one of the first public buildings erected on the
island.
In 1783, it was determined to move the town-house
again, and it was placed at the comer of Milk and
Main Streets, where it remained for sixty or seventy
years. This building was a plain and unpretentious
one, with a square roof, and was neither structurally
' In this chapter are included items of historical interest which,
while difficult to retain in a consecutive narrative, are nevertheless of
such importance as to justify preservation.
340
In the Dredge-Net 341
nor architecturally imposing. Its seats were upright
and unpainted, arranged in tiers, one above another,
and its walls were undecorated by even a picture.
Many a time, however, these desolate-looking walls
re-echoed with fervid oratory in the days before the
Civil War, when the question of abolition and many
another burning theme were discussed before -"the
House."
Eventually it was sold, and the town-meetings were
subsequently held either in the upper story of the West
schoolhouse, the lower story of Academy Hill school-
house, or in Atlantic Hall on Main Street. Early in
the seventies, when no purchaser could be found for
the South schoolhouse, on Orange Street, the town-
hall was reconstituted in its upper story, and here it
remains.
But, wherever the town-house may have been placed,
it is regarded by all good Nantucketers as the cradle
of their liberties. Almost from the time of the settle-
ment, attendance at town-meeting was esteemed as
one of their greatest privileges by the forefathers, and,
amid the alternating prosperity and adversity of the
island, this privilege has passed down from father to
son, from generation to generation, amid peace and war,
amid the distortions of politics and the transmutations
of religious faith ; and it still stands pre-eminent as the
embodiment of municipal rights ever sustained, ever
appreciated by loyal and patriotic citizens of the island.
"The local legislature," as the town-house has been
aptly called, has always been carried on, in the main,
within parliamentary lines, notwithstanding many
scenes of perfervid eloquence and passionate zeal
which have been enacted within its walls.
Under the presidency of the moderator and the cor-
342 Nantucket
porate wisdom of the Selectmen, the democratic As-
sembly preserves the courtesy and decorum of debate
in allowing every citizen to express his views, and in
the genial acceptance of the decisions of the majority.
It is, indeed, a time-hallowed institution, having
been in existence for nearly two hundred and fifty
years; and while it has been the arbiter morum of the
town from time immemorial, it is still the controlling
influence in working out and regulating its destiny,
for everything concerning the municipality is valid
only when the sign of "the local legislature's" approval
has been affixed.
Cemeteries. There is considerable uncertainty as
to the location of the Indian burying-places on the
island, but, as stated elsewhere, the writer believes they
were situated for the most part near the shore-line,
and in course of time have been washed away. It is
very probable that there was one at Shawkemo, and
another near a point intersected by the railroad, north
of the upper end of Miacomet Pond.
The original, or ancient (white) cemetery, was set
apart at an early period, on the hill near Maxcy's Pond.
John Gardner was buried there in 1706, and his was
the last gravestone left standing in 1881 ; in that year
a new granite headstone was erected in its place. In
1883, the remnant of the old stone was removed to the
"Oldest House," where it may still be seen. The last
burial in the old burying-place was that of Jonathan
Coffin and his wife, who both died in 1773. On the
burial-hill is now erected a memorial to the early
settlers, many of whom were interred in its immediate
vicinity.
The first burial-place of the Friends was a little
In the Dredge-Net 343
southeast of the ancient cemetery, and was used from
1705 or 1706 until 1731. Here, in 171 7, was buried
the famous Mary Starbuck ; also her husband Nathaniel,
in 1 7 19; and Stephen Hussey was interred in this
cemetery in 17 18.
In Nantucket town, there are six cemeteries still in
use, viz. : the Prospect Hill or Unitarian Cemetery, on
Prospect Street, first used in 181 1.
The Old North Cemetery, at the northwest comer
of New and Grove Lanes, where many quaint and inter-
esting inscriptions may be found. This was originally
called the "Gardner Burying-ground," as the Gardners
instituted it for themselves originally, and it was
afterwards taken over by the North Church. It was
probably laid out during the first decade of the eighteenth
century.
The North Cemetery is contiguous to the Old North.
The Friends' burial-place is at the head of Main
Street. Here there are no floral moiuids or "storied
urns" to tell of those interred beneath the tangled
moorland vines, grass, and weeds; not even a wild
flower decks this simple field of rest and peace; and
yet it is said that ten thousand bodies have mouldered
into dust within this unadorned but sacred enclosure.
In one comer of the cemetery are, however, a few
small markers to distinguish the graves of those who
belonged to the Hicksite section of the Society, to whom
the world appealed in a greater degree than it did to
the more orthodox Wilburites; but what matter such
distinctions here,
" Where Life is perfected by Death "!
The South Cemetery is in the south part of the town,
about a quarter of a mile southwest of the Asylum.
344 Nantucket
It is also known as the Newtown Cemetery and com-
prises about two acres.
The Roman CathoUc burial-ground on Prospect
Hill is comparatively modem.
The cemetery for people of color is in the southern
district of the town, and has many graves.
There is also a burial-ground at Polpis which has
been in existence for many years.
In former days, also, a number of people were buried
"at the Quaise Farm when the Asylum was there."'
At the rooms of the Nantucket Historical Association
may be seen a card catalogue containing all the de-
cipherable inscriptions upon the old headstones.
Mills and Manufactures. In addition to what has
already been referred to in Chapter V., with regard to
the "Old Windmill" still remaining, the following ad-
ditional particulars may be interesting. It was built
for a Nantucket company in 1746. After some years,
it became the property of Eliakim Swain and the Swain
heirs, and in 1828 was purchased as fuel for twenty
dollars by Jared Gardner. In 1834, and again in 1840,
it was advertised for sale by Jared Gardner, and was
bought by George Enos, who held it until 1864, when
it was again sold to Captain John Murray, who finally
sold it to John Francis Sylvia, in 1866. After Sylvia's
death it was sold by auction, and, after brisk competi-
tion, Miss C. L. W. French, of Boston, became its
possessor for the sum of $850. Miss French, with
her usual generosity, and in the belief that such an
interesting landmark should become the inalienable
possession of the island, presented it to the Nantucket
Historical Association, who are careful in keeping it
• W. C. Folger.
In the Dredge-Net 345
in perfect repair, and who have installed a keeper
for the purpose of showing and explaining its
structure and history to the thousands of visitors
who evince a lively interest in this attractive relic of
the past. '
To the south of the mill is Dead Horse Valley, where,
it is said, formerly grew the oak-trees of which the mill
was built. There was not a nail or bolt used in its
construction, and its oaken pegs are still in excellent
condition. From its upper window a splendid view
can be obtained.
With the exception of a few gaps the old mill
has been grinding corn for one hundred and sixty-
five years consecutively. When fully in opera-
tion, it had a capacity of ten bushels an hour,
but one man being required to perform the oper-
ations. The miller, according to old custom, re-
ceived about ten per cent, of the grain ground, as
compensation.
Other Old Mills and Manufactures. Exclusive of
the mills already mentioned, one was erected in 1834,
for the combined purpose of grinding com and sawing
logs, also staves for oil-casks. This was operated by
Simeon Starbuck and Philip H. Folger. Previous to
1800, there was a horse-power grist-mill on Pine Street,
which, however, was soon abandoned, and the proprie-
tor (Joseph Chase) built the wind grist-mill which
stood near New Lane. It was taken down about
1872.
"A wind-mill was erected on his house on North
Liberty Street, by Thomas B. Field, in 1875. The
* Mrs. Eva C. G. Folger, opus cit.
346 Nantucket
vanes were horizontal, and are said to have worked
easily in certain directions of the wind."'
In 1 66 1, the Gardner brothers built a tide-mill east
of Mill Brook, and, in 1673, they built a fulling-mill
at Polpis.
In 1 74 1, Tristram Starbuck and Zaccheus Macy
set up a fulling-mill.
In 1763, a mill was built at Polpis Neck, and in 1786
it was removed to Polpis.
A fulling-mill was erected at Mill Brook, near the
old Madeket road, at the west end of the island in
1863.
Another fulling-mill was operated in Shawkemo in
1770, and was working as late as 1828 or 1830.
There was a fulling-mill at Quaise which was stand-
ing in 1820.
In 1772, a fulling and coloring mill was in operation
between the schoolhouse at Polpis and the Milton
House and ran until 1796-97.^
When to the manufacture of sperm oil and candles
was added the manufacture of whale and sea-elephant
oils, the total number of factories in Nantucket was
thirty-six, representing an annual product of from one
to one and a half millions of dollars. The fitting out
of about ninety ships and smaller vessels involved the
manufacture of casks, packages for candles, boats, iron
work, duck, cordage, etc., aggregating about $160,000,
including fifty thousand casks or barrels. Twenty- two
were coopers' shops in operation, and eleven or twelve
blacksmiths' forges for ironwork. There were also
' Mrs. Eva C. G. Folger, The Glacier's Gift, p. 93.
* For many of the above items the writer is indebted to Mrs. Folger.
In the Dredge-Net 347
utilized thirty-five thousand candle-boxes, from
eighty to one hundred whale-boats, fifteen hundred
bolts of duck, wrought into sails, etc. These
amounts represent the outlay required annually for
the business of this isolated community. There
were likewise ten rope-walks in operation at one
time, for the making of cordage for the whaling-ships
and others.
The first cut-nails ever used on the island were
made by Eliphalet Paddack about 1797 or '98, and he
continued to make them in Pine Street for several years
after 1800.
A duck factory was established by Joseph Chase and
others in 1792 or '93, and was carried on for six or seven
years.
For many years a twine factory was operated.
During the war of 18 12, a woollen factory was estab-
hshed by Obed. Mitchell on the New North Wharf;
this continued until 18 18. It employed a force of two
hundred persons.
Salt-works of an extensive character were erected on
Brant Point and on Quaise Point.
A large brush and bellows factory was established
during the War of 18 12, on Academy Hill, and was
carried on for several years afterwards; and there was
a linen-coat factory on Quince Street, run by John W.
Hallett in the seventies or eighties.
From, an early period, and for many years, three
leather tanneries were in full operation on land east
of Union Street.
The first steam mill erected on the island was estab-
lished on the North Beach by Daniel Mitchell in 1832
or '33, for the manufacture of candle-boxes, etc. ; an-
other on a more extensive scale was built later on the
348 Nantucket
South Beach, by Levi Starbuck, for the manufac-
ture of casks, candle-boxes, grain-grinding, and the
planing of boards, and was continued until the general
decline.
From 1834, ^ silk factory also, on Gay Street, was
operated by Aaron Mitchell, and the writer has seen
a beautiful specimen of its manufacture, now in the
possession of Alexander Starbuck. A brass foundry
was run on South Beach in 1821, and a straw manufac-
tory, boot manufactories, block and pump manu-
factories elsewhere on the island. In addition to these,
there was a coast-wise and coast-wide trade extending
from Portland, Me., to New Orleans, in Louisiana,
which kept constantly running about twenty-six sloops
and schooners, regular packets, besides lumber,
coal, and wood vessels; but silence reigns over all
now!^
Wharves. There are five wharves in Nantucket,
the first, built in or before 1723, and known as the
Straight Wharf, being at least one hundred and eighty-
nine years old.
What scenes must this old pile have mutely witnessed
during Nantucket's alternating waves of prosperity
and adversity! How many ships have sailed away
from its anchorage, buoyed up with hope and happiness
and returned in safety to find their loved ones with
loving hearts waiting to welcome them home again!
How many have sailed away cheerily, — 'alas, never to
return again ! What rejoicings in prosperity must this
old pile have seen — what suffering and poverty when
times were bad, and the curse of war had desolated the
' The Story of the Island-Steamers, pp. 122-125.
In the Dredge-Net 349
hearths and homes of the islanders ! Old age may have
rotted its timbers but it is still a monument to its
builders. It has done its work well: would that a
mighty fleet of whaling ships required its services even
now! The following is a list of the other wharves:
Commercial Wharf, about or after 1800.
Old South, or Swain's Wharf 1
Old North, or Perry's Wharf [about 1770.
The New North, or Steamboat Wharf J
There was a fire on the South Wharf in 1769, when
several buildings were destroyed, and the loss was
estimated at $11,000,
Indian Pestilence. Of the pestilence which assailed
the Indians in 1764 the following details may be inter-
esting :
34 were sick and recovered.
36 living among the Indians were not affected.
8 living by themselves in the west end escaped.
40 living among the whites entirely escaped.
18 were at sea during the epidemic and escaped.
222 died of the epidemic.
358 total number of Indians on the island before the
outbreak of the epidemic. '
Dates of Whale-fishing before the Revolution:
Davis Strait, 1746.
The Island of Disco, Baffin's Bay, 1751.
Gulf of St. Lawrence, 1761.
Coast of Guinea, 1763.
Western Islands, 1765.
Eastward of Newfoundland Banks, 1765.
Coasts of Brazil, 1774.
' Obed. Macy.
350 Nantucket
The Monument. The monument erected in Main
Street is in memory of the brave islanders who perished
during the Civil War, all of whom freely gave their
lives in patriotic zeal for the land they loved. The
names of seventy-four of the heroic dead are chiseled
in granite on the tablets of the memorial, but, deeply
graved within the hearts of their fellow islanders, from
generation to generation, their memories will outlive
the records on bronze or marble; while the flag for
which they died, and the laurel wreaths they won shall
be renewed for countless years, as long as patriotism
is cherished on "the little purple island."
The inscription, which was written by the late Wil-
liam Hussey Macy, and which was pronounced by
President Eliot of Harvard College, on a visit to the
island some years ago, to be the best he had seen on
any soldier's monument in this country, is as follows:
"Eternal Honor to the Sons of Nantucket, who by
Land and Sea, gave their Lives to Present a United
Country." Peace to their ashes! All honor to the
brave !
Rotch Market was built, for business purposes, in
1772, by William Rotch, a successful and enterprising
Nantucketer. He was a high-spirited townsman, and
served the best interests of the community in many
ways. He belonged to the Society of Friends, and
died in 1828.
Rotch Market is situated at the bottom of Main
Street. In the upper part of the building is the custom-
house; but the large lower room has become famous as
the "Pacific Club," wherein, in days gone by, the
shipowners and their agents — known as the "House
of Lords" — mingled in good fellowship with the cap-
In the Dredge-Net 351
tains and other ship's officers, distinguished as "the
House of Commons." The shipowners have, alas,
long departed, and there are but few of the old captains
left ; but there is still happily a remnant to tell of the
dangers of the deep, and to spin yarns to any extent
for the entertainment of any strangers who may chance
to meet them there, and who are always welcome, if
properly introduced.
Newtown Gate. This gate extended across the
southern end of Orange Street in the good old days
when many hundreds of sheep browsed uncontrolled
upon the flowery moorlands. A toll of one cent was
exacted for passing through.
Ancient Names of Nantucket :
Natocke. De Laet's map, 1630.
Nautican. Sir Ferdinand Gorges (born 1566, died 1647).
Vide Drake's Nooks and Corners, p. 325.
Nantican. Hough's Book, 1641.
Nauticon. Macy's History, p. 17.
Nantocket. 1703.
Nantoe. Map 1746.
Neutocket. " "
Natacei. " "
Nantuket. " "
Nantucket. Huske.
Nantukket. De la Tour.
Nantukes ]
Mantukes >ln patents and other documents.
NantucquetJ
Natocket. This is probably the spelling representing the
aboriginal name. It thus signifies "at the
far away land," or "the land far off" (at
sea). H. B. Worth.
352
Nantucket
Principals of High
School.
1838-1912.
Cyrus Pierce
1838 (February to June)
Augustus Morse
1838
Alden B. Whipple
1855
B. F. Morrison
1858
Henry Dame
1862
Galen Allen
1865
LoRiN L, Dame
1867
George R. Chase
1869
Charles A. Baker
1871
CM. Barrows
1871
A. B. Whipple (2d term)
1876
W. H. Spinney
1879
G. I. Hopkins
1880
A. H. K. Blood
1880-81
W. H. Russell
1881-82
A. J. Clough
1882-85
Lucius W. Craig
1885-88
William J. Long
1888-91
DwiGHT Miner
1891-92
Fred. P. Batchelder
1892-93
Stanley E. Johnson
I 893-1900
Herbert H. Rice
I 900- I 90 I
Frank E. Briggs
1901-1906
Benjamin M. Macy
I 906-1 907
M. M. Harris
1907-1909
J. Arthur Burton
1909; still in office, 1912
An Early Abolitionist. It is worthy of mention
that, as far back as 1733, Elihu Coleman, whose
house is still standing on the old Madeket road, and
who was one of the preaching brethren of the
Society of Friends, published an eloquent plea for
the abolition of slavery, entitled : A Testimony against
the Anti- Christian Practice of Making Slaves of Men.
In connection with this and in justice to the Society
In the Dredge-Net
353
of Friends it is only fair to emphasize the following
fact:
At the Nantucket monthly meeting the following
resolution was carried : " It is not agreeable to truth for
Friends to purchase slaves and hold them term of liffe."
Population of the Island :
1719
1726
1764
1774
1784
1790
1800
1810
1820
1830
1840
1850
i860
1865
1870
1875
1880
1890
1900
1905
1910
721 whites
917
3220
4545
4269 (war).
4620
5617
6807
7226
7202
9712
8779
6094
4830
4123
3201
3727
3268
3006
2930
2962
" The Camels. " The following description of the
detachable dry-docks — known as "Camels," — ^ which
were used for floating ships over the bar, the invention
of Peter F. Ewer (father of the late Rev, Dr. Ewer), is
from the pen of William C. Macy:
They resembled two immense blocks of wood, each half as
large as a ship, with no top rigging, each block with a ron-
23
354 Nantucket
cave side, the shape of a ship. They were 135 feet long,
19 feet deep, and 29 feet bottom; 20 feet wide on deck,
drawing 2 feet 9 inches, and connected at the bottom by 15
chains capable of bearing 800 tons.
Each camel was divided into two parts, the lower hold
and between decks. The lower hold contained 12 apart-
ments, six on each side, the between decks 10 apartments
each. These huge arrangements were easily filled with
water and sunk to any required depth. The ship then
sailed between the two, and was clasped in the embrace of
the camels whose concave sides just fitted the shape of the
ship. Of course these fifteen chains were under her bottom
and when she was securely in the embrace of the camels,
they being drawn together and secured tightly, the pumping
out of the 12,000 barrels of water each held, commenced.
The race-way running through each camel from stern to
stern, and through which they were filled with water, was
closed, and by the use of a double-acting force-pump of six
horse power, in a comparatively short time the water was
pumped or forced out, and as the water left, the ship and
camels rose together, the whole drawing so little water that,
as was the case with the Constitution (the first ship carried
over the Bar by their aid) a ship could be taken over the
Bar fully loaded.
The camels were introduced in 1842, but were little
used, were soon abandoned entirely, and were finally
sold for a comparatively small sum after being in use
for five or six years. An excellent model of the camels
may be seen at the Historical Society's rooms.
Jetties. In 1880 an appropriation of $50,000 was
obtained from the Government for the purpose of sea-
dredging, and the building of jetties at Nantucket.
The western jetty, imder the cliff, on the north shore
was commenced in 1881 ; it bears a red light at the end.
In the Dredge-Net 355
The eastern jetty, begun a few years later, extending into
the Sound from Coatue, carries a white Hght. The build-
ing of these jetties occupied a number of years, and in
time they must be extended. Sea-dredging has been
carried on from time to time, but much more is necessary ;
and everything depends upon an adequate appropriation.
Ponds. The following list of Nantucket ponds ap-
pears in a book of surveys, by the late Benjamin Bunker,
who died on April 14, 1842, aged ninety-one years.
Acres in area Rods
Hummock or W aqmttaquah
320
Sacacha
310
56
Long Pond
216
151
Miacomet
45
128
Gibbs's
31
93
Cupaum
23
24
Fulling-mill Pond
10
24
Jonathan Small's Pond
4
46
Maxcy's Pond
10
88
Madequecham Pond
7
23
Mioxes Pond
15
95
Nobodeer Pond
7
104
Offey's Pond
5
51
Cain's Pond
6
52
Poot No. I Pond
I
148
Poot No. 2 Pond
I
49
Bellows Pond
I
66
Reedy Pond (near Mioxes)
4
27
Reed Pond (Wannacomet)
5
8
Sheep Pond
4
123
Shallow Pond
52
Wannacomet Pond
7
51
Weeweder
5
97
Wigwam or Toupche
_3
Ji
Total acreage
1049
33
356 Nantucket
The following additional ponds are figured on Dr.
Ewer's map, as existing in 1869, but some of them have
dried up:
North Pond Rotten Pumpkin Pond
Saul's Pond Forked Ponds
Wigwam Ponds (Saul's Hills) Almanack Pond
Cato's Pond Tom Never's Pond
Mika's Pond
Flagroot Pond Pest-House Pond
These altogether aggregate thirty-seven ponds on
the island irrespective of extensive swamps, some of
which formerly contained from one hundred to three
hundred acres. Some of these were subsequently
cleared and made into valuable meadow-land, especially
in the vicinity of the town.
The Hon Walter Folger's Astronomical Clock. This
wonderful clock was first set in motion on July 4,
1790, and has been going ever since.
But mere time-keeping is but a small part of its surpris-
ing capacity. In its metallic dial-plate is a truncated ellip-
tical slit, about three-fourths of an inch wide, in which daily
circulates a bright, golden ball representing the sun, which
daily rises at the eastern end of the slit, and sets and dis-
appears at the western end of it at the exact recorded al-
manac time; the difference in the length of the days being
regulated by a slide at the end of this roadway which moved
up or down by automatic machinery, according to the
requisition of each day. The same machinery also records
the sun's due place in the ecliptic. Outside this pathway
of the sun is another similar slit, concentric to the first, in
which the moon performs her daily and nightly journey,
indicating her southing, and the time of full sea at Nan-
In the Dredge-Net 357
tucket, and also the chief phenomena attendant upon the
obhquity of her path, the revolutions of her nodes, the
hunter's and harvest moons; and in one item involving a
recurrent motion of the machinery for a period of eighteen
years and some days. Near the top of the dial is another
small slit, horizontal, where appears the date of the year,
with such contrivance that exactly at midnight of the day
which closes up the year, the old figures are politely dis-
missed, or benevolently released from further service, and
the necessary new ones take their place, ready to salute
the awakening inmates with "A Happy New Year."
Not even is that all; once in a hundred years there are
century figures to be changed ; and this also is duly provided
for by a wheel so arranged as to revolve once in a hundred
years in the following manner; remaining motionless for
ten years, then starting along one notch, and so on through
ten notches until the century is complete.
In the lifetime of the maker, at 12 o'clock midnight,
December 31, 1799, three hoary and faded figures meekly
withdrew, and three bright and beardless youngsters
stepped briskly into their places shouting " 1800!" One of
the best authentic instances of spontaneous generation!
Walter Folger, the maker of this marvellous clock, men-
tally planned it at the age of twenty-two and submitting
the plan to his father, himself a mathematical genius, was
encouraged to undertake its construction. With his own
hands he made every part of it, and set it in operation in
1790, from which date it never failed in its contemplated
movements until his death in 1849. Since that time it has
been once taken to pieces and cleaned; and through the
lack of the extraordinary knowledge and skill necessary to
perfect adjustment, it now hesitates in the performance of
some of its former matchless feats. ' — From New York Times.
Brant Point Lighthouse. As there has been much
discussion as to the date of erection of the first light-
^ This clock is now in the possession of John B. Folger, of Nantucket.
358 Nantucket
house at Brant Point, a few additional facts may be
mentioned here. There can be Httle doubt that it was
built in 1746. This opinion was strongly maintained
by the late S. F. Sanford, who thoroughly examined the
question, and Brant Point Lighthouse could not have
been, as has been alleged, the first erected in the United
States, as that in Boston Harbor was undoubtedly
built in 1 71 5.
The first Nantucket lighthouse was burnt down in
1759, a second was blown down in 1774, a third was
burned in 1783, and several of a temporary character
were subsequently erected. The Government assumed
control in 1795,^ and erected the present brick and
stone building in 1856. This was used until 1900,
when it was discontinued and a smaller wooden tower
built on the beach at low water owing to difficulties
engendered by the jetties interfering with the range
of the light.
The present light is the tenth that has been erected
on Brant Point, and Nantucket has had a beacon burn-
ing on her coast for one hundred and seventy-six years,
thus leading in this as in many other respects. ^
Societies, Clubs, and Institutions. There are few
existing localities of Nantucket's size which have had
more numerous or more varied social, economic, edu-
cational, and charitable organizations. So numerous,
indeed have they been that the bare enumeration of
some of them is all that can be attempted here.
Among the earliest, if not the first, are the Ladies'
Howard Society, incorporated 1846, and the Nantucket
Agricultural Society, which, founded in 1856, has re-
'"June 23, 1795": State-House, Boston.
'Vide, chapter XIV.
In the Dredge-Net 359
cently held its fifty-sixth annual meeting, and is still
prosperous.
The Relief Association was founded February 25,
1873, and incorporated in 1874. The Farmers' Insti-
tute was organized about 1880; the Sherburne Lyceum
■ — a literary and debating society — was instituted in
1877, and after much success gradually died out. ,
Among others are : the Children's Aid Society, organ-
ized in 1869, and incorporated in 1894; the Union
Benevolent Society, incorporated in 1883; the Industrial
and Educational Society; Nantucket Improvement
Society; Helping-Hand Society, incorporated in 1900;
Boys' Gymnasium, 1908; Women's Christian Temper-
ance Union, 1876; Nantucket Historical Association,
1894; Sons and Daughters of Nantucket Association,
1894; the Nantucket County Teachers' Association,
1896; the Civic League; Nantucket Hospital Corpora-
tion, etc.
In 1 771 a Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons was
constituted in Nantucket, in which year the Grand
Lodge of Massachusetts was petitioned for a charter,
this being granted on May 27, 1771. The petition
was signed by William Brock, Joseph Deniston, Henry
Smith, William Worth, Christopher Hussey, and
Timothy Folger. William Brock was the first Worship-
ful Master, and the Lodge has been in continuous
operation since it was first instituted, being the seventh
in seniority in the State.
Another Lodge was founded in 18 16, known as
"Urbanity Lodge," but, during the political anti-
masonic campaign, it surrendered its warrant and
rejoined the original "Unity Lodge."
Unity Lodge commemorated its centennial anniver-
sary in 1871, when the Grand Officers of the State
36o Nantucket
attended as guests, in addition to many visiting breth-
ren. The celebration was most successful in every way,
and will not soon be forgotten by those who were
present.
The "Nantucket Lodge" of Oddfellows was foimded
in 1845 as No. 66. Unfortunately, during the following
year, the great fire destroyed all its possessions, a
disaster which crippled its progress materially for a
time. It gradually recovered, however, and is now
flourishing and most successful in every way, having
two hundred members, and a financial condition which
is very satisfactory.
The "Island Lodge," No. 24, Daughters of Rebekah,
I. O. O. F., was formed in 1874. It has nearly two
hundred members and admirably sustains its mission.
The "Wauwinet Tribe" of Redmen, No. 158, estab-
lished on Nantucket with a membership of one hundred
and sixty, is well-organized and financially sound, and
is doing its work well, and prospering.
Of the many social clubs which have been established
in Nantucket the following may be mentioned as among
the most important, viz.: the Sorosis Club, 1872; the
Mendon, the Golden-rod, the Isis, the Unity, the
Shakespeare, the Nantucket, the Pacific, and many
others, some of which are no longer existent.
Nantucket's Distinguished Inventor. Although
clothed with all the modesty which characterizes true
genius, Patrick B. Delany, the illustrious electrical
engineer and inventor, who has chosen Nantucket for
his dwelling-place, and has erected his wireless telegraph
apparatus, and established his laboratory on the Cliff,
has patented over two hundred inventions mainly in
electricity and multiplex telegraphs, six messages simul-
In the Dredge-Net 361
taneously over one wire, automatic rapid telegraphy,
a thousand words per minute, cable secret telegraph
systems, and many experiments in wireless telegraphy.
He has been honored with ten gold medals from the
most famous American and European societies and
institutions, and his private laboratory is in constant
touch with the outside world. He has recently turned
his attention to "talking machines," and in his "Vox
Humana" instrument he has achieved the most won-
derful and most nearly correct reproduction of the
human voice ever invented.
Agriculture. The long and persistent indiffer-
ence of the majority of the islanders to developing
the agricultural resources and possibilities of the
island may, perhaps, be explained, but cannot be
excused. The writer believes that there are com-
paratively few acres of the moorland which could
not be rendered productive by renewal of the soil
and appropriate fertilization. Even now when the
land is exhausted by the lapse of time and utter
neglect, there is very little of it which could not be
made to produce fruit, flowers, and vegetables to
almost any extent; and after a time of careful
preparation, there is no reason why crops of com,
wheat, barley, and oats could not be as success-
fully cultivated as they were in the days of the early
settlers. Even as late as 1870, there were one hun-
dred and five farms on the island, with an average
of one hundred and fifty-one acres in each farm, twelve
acres of grass in each farm, each producing eighteen
tons of hay, com thirty-seven bushels to the acre, thirty
bushels of oats, forty bushels of barley, and one hundred
and tr.n bushels of potatoes. This accurate abstract
362 Nantucket
from the census tells its own tale, and no more need
be said.
The Nantucket Agricultural Society has striven well
during the fifty-six years of its history, and with con-
siderable success; and its yearly fairs are very en-
couraging. During the past ten years there seems
to have been a slight gain in agricultural interests,
but there is too little general enthusiasm and the
laborers are few. When will Nantucket awake to
appreciate and to utilize the many opportunities
lying profusely around them, instead of waiting for a
lower class of work to be brought from afar, and per-
mitting a host of foreigners to teach them what can
be done?
Board of Health. Nearly as far back as 1791, when
the first Nantucket vessel rounded Cape Horn, there
was a Health Committee to safeguard the well-being
of the islanders and especially of the whalers and their
families; still later, probably up to 1882, there was a
Committee of Health appointed from the Selectmen,
the overseer of the poor acting as their advisory agent ;
and, still more recently, there has been constituted a
thoroughly organized Board of Health whose duty it is
to inquire into and to conserve the public health, and
to ensure sanitary and hygienic conditions on the island.
In such competent hands the health of the island is
assured.
Interesting Figures. The following table will doubt-
less prove interesting reading, as it contains the amount
of appropriations made by the annual town-meetings
since 1893, and also the amount raised by taxation and
the rate of taxation each year:
In the Dredge-Net
363
Amounts
Raised by
Rate per
Year
Appropriated
Taxation
Thousand
1893
$34,900.00
$31,816.93
$10.00
1894
31,000.00
32,015-33
10.00
1895
41,000.00
37.758.62
11.80
1896
41,000.00
45,188.65
14.60
1897
29,750.00
35,446.42
10.00
1898
37,285.00
44,099.74
12.60
1899
45,800.00
43,846.88
12.60
1900
46,850.00
44,074.76
13.00
1901
40,619.46
44,090.04
12.50
1902
60,335.00
42,073.04
12.50
1903
60,852.67
63,306.41
18.00
1904
59,726.50
61,505.58
18.00
1905
43,385-53
44,356.13
13.00
1906
62,091.66
48,350.00
15.00
1907
69,563.66
56,200.00
16.50
1908
60 791.66
65,363-07
19.00
1909
68,445.38
68,172.48
19-50
1910
71,681.08
61,323.62
17-50
1911
87,873-37
73,257-42
17-50
1912
83,301.66
65,482.21
15.00
1913
93,091.66
70,000.00
?
Nantucket's Expenses. From the table appended
below it will readily be seen how the expenses of the
town of Nantucket have increased during the last
twenty years, through appropriations made at the
annual town-meetings. In 1893 the total appropria-
tions was but $34,900, and in 19 13 it had risen to
$93,091.66 — almost three times as much.
1893— $34,900.00
1894 — $31,000.00
1895 — $41,000.00
1896 — $41,000.00
364 Nantucket
1897— $29,750.00
1898—137,285.00
1899 — $45,800.00
1900 — $46,850.00
1901 — $40,619.46
1902— $60,335.00
1903— $60,852.67
1904— $59,726.50
1905— $43,385.53
1906 — $62,091.66
1907— $69,563.66
1908 — $60,791.66
1909— $68,455.38
1 910— $71,681.08
191 1— $87,873.37
1912 — $83,301.66
1913— $93,091.66^
The Gulf Stream. It is not generally known that a
ship captain,^ from the whaling port of Nantucket, was
the first man to draw a chart locating and giving the
course of the Gulf Stream.
This incident is described in the Works of Benjamin
Franklin, vol. iii., pp. 353 and 364.
'From the Nantucket Inquirer and Mirror, February 15, 1913.
» Captain Timothy Folger.
CHAPTER XX
CHRONOLOGICAL DATA
I602-I912
1602. Discovery of Nantucket Island by Bartholomew
Gosnold.
1630. A war waged between the eastern and western
tribes about this year.
1641. The island deeded to Thomas Mayhew and
son by Lord Stirling.
1659. The island deeded by Mayhew, for £30 and two
beaver hats, to ' ' The Ten original Purchasers , ' '
viz.:
Tristram Coffin Thomas Macy
Richard Swain Thomas Barnard
Peter Coffin Christopher Hussey
Stephen Greenleaf John Swain
William Pike Thomas Mayhew re-
taining one-tenth of the island, consisting of that part
known as Quaise.
Each of the above chose an "Associate," with whom
to settle the island, viz. :
Tristram Coffin, Jr. Edward Starbuck
John Smith Nathaniel Starbuck
Robert Pike Thomas Look
Robert Barnard James Coffin
Thomas Coleman Thomas Mayhew, Jr.
365
366 Nantucket
The island was purchased subsequently from the
natives who owned it in small tracts, the boundaries
thereof being defined with surprising exactness.
Thomas Macy and family, with Edward Starbuck
and others, arrived from Salisbury, Mass.
Number of Indians on the island, probably about
700.
1660. Starbuck returned to Salisbury, and brought
back to the island eight or ten families.
West end of island bought from the Indians.
1663. Peter Folger moved to the island. The
occupations of the settlers were fishing and
farming. The island, with the exception of
Quaise, was divided into twenty-seven parts.
1665. King Philip visited the island.
1666. The first grist-mill built on Wesko (Lily) Pond.
1667. August 15th, Abiah Folger born, daughter of
Peter and Mary Folger. She married Josiah
Franklin of Boston, and was the mother of
Dr. Benjamin Franklin. She died in 1752.
1 67 1. Town incorporated.
1673. Whaling commenced in boats from the shore.
The town was named Sherburne, by order of
Lovelace, Governor of New York.
1676. About this time Sesacacha (containing about
thirty houses) and Siasconset villages were
built. Also the cluster of whale-houses at
Miacomet, together with the fishing-stages
of Peedee and Quidnet, and the fishing-stage
at Weeweder. Sesacacha village continued
in existence about 140 years, the last houses
of the place having been moved to Siasconset
in 1820.
1 68 1. Tristram Coffin died.
Chronological Data, 1 602-1 91 2 367
1693. The island (previously a part of New York
Province), became a part of Massachusetts,
in accordance with the request of the proprie-
tors of the island.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
1704. Up to this date, i.e., for nearly half a century,
the whites, though numbering now about
700 souls, had had no settled religious teacher,
and were without a church, probably the
solitary exception, in this respect, in all New
England. They were, and had been during
the half century, mostly Baptists, a few were
Presbyterians, and one or two Quakers.
The Mayhews had christianized the Indians,
and the latter (with the New Testament
translated into their language) had four
meeting-houses (Presbyterian in form) con-
ducted in their own language. During this
year a Friends' Society was formed.
The first Indian execution took place also.
171 1. The North Congregational Society formed, and
the first meeting-house erected at the west-
ward of the North burial-ground. It is said
to have been built of oak that grew on the
island. Names, if any, of the first pastors
unknown.
The first Friends' meeting-house built on hill
north of town.
17 1 2. About this time small vessels began making
short voyages.
First sperm whale taken by Christopher Hussey.
1715. Six sloops engaged in whaling.
368 Nantucket
1715-20. Site of the town moved to Wesko, its present
location.
1 7 19. White population 721.
1720. Paul Starbuck made first shipment of oil to
England {via Boston) in ship Hanover, William
Chadder, master.
1723. Straight wharf built, probably before.
1726. White population 917.
1730, Twenty-five whaling vessels owned at Nan-
tucket.
Quanaty Hill dug away to make land from
Union Street to the present shore.
Friends' meeting-house built on Main Street
(comer of Friends' burying-ground). Meet-
ings were held here for sixty years. Build-
ing removed in 1792 to lot, comer of Main
and Pleasant streets, and a new meeting-
house built on Broad Street. Meetings were
divided between the two houses.
1732. Timothy White became pastor of First Congre-
gational Church.
1745. First cargo of oil shipped directly to England.
1746. First lighthouse built on Brant Point, being the
second erected in America. Supported for
forty-five years by merchants of Nantucket.
The Swain windmill built, and is still standing.
1763-4. White population 3220
Indian population 358
Total 3578
Indian plague swept off 222 natives, leaving
only 136 on the island.
1765. North meeting-house removed to Beacon Hill
(the present site). Out of 3220 whites only
Chronological Data, 1 602-1 91 2 369
forty-seven were pew-holders. Whaling in
boats from shore ceased.
Ship Neptune built for William Rotch : Nathan
Coffin, master; she was the first ship owned
at Nantucket.
1772. Brick building erected at foot of Main Street
by William Rotch and used by him as an
office. Now owned by Pacific Club and
occupied by them, and by the custom-house.
First sperm candle factory started.
1773. Ships Dartmouth, Eleanor, and Beaver cleared
from Nantucket with cargoes of oil for Eng-
land. After discharging in London the three
ships were chartered to bring cargoes of tea
to Boston. This was the famous tea which
was thrown overboard by the Americans on
its arrival in Boston Harbor. The Beaver
was owned in Nantucket, and her captain
was Hezekiah Coffin, of Nantucket.
1774. Population 4545. One clergyman, two doctors,
and one lawyer on the island. From organi-
zation of North Congregational Society in
171 1 to 1 78 1, there was but one settled
clergyman on the island, and no public
schools.
1775-81. About 1600 Nantucketers lost their lives, in
one way or another during and on account of
the Revolutionary War.
1776. About this time 150 vessels (aggregate 15,000
tons), owned at Nantucket.
1777. Twenty men and boys sailed as part of crew of
the Ranger, John Paul Jones, master.
1778. Ratable property on island $866,630. Whaling
seriously retarded by the war, from 1776 to
24
370 Nantucket
1782. Fifteen vessels were lost at sea, and
134 captured by the British.
1779. A hundred armed men from an English privateer,
during April, landed and robbed stores of
goods valued at $10,665. Soon after a com-
mittee was appointed by the town to confer
with British commanders at New York and
Newport, the result being an arrangement
for protection on condition of neutrality.
1783. Ship Bedford, Captain William Mooers, hoisted
first American flag in an English port (Lon-
don, February 3d). Returned to Nantucket
May 3, 1783.
Many Nantucketers settled along the banks of
the Hudson, at Hudson and other points.
Ship Washington, Captain George Bunker, was
first to hoist American flag in Spanish Pacific
port.
1784. Population 4269. Lighthouse erected at Great
Point.
1788. Ship Penelope, Captain Tristram Gardner,
reached latitude 70°, Arctic Ocean.
1 791. Ship Beaver, Captain Paul Worth, sailed, and
was the first Nantucket whaler to double
Cape Horn.
1793. Sixteen ships, five brigs, and schooners sailed
from Nantucket.
Name of town changed from Sherburne to
Nantucket.
Nantucket Bank started.
Old North tower erected.
Three Indian wigwams — the last — were the
only ones left standing on the island at
Squam.
Chronological Data, 1 602-1 91 2 371
NINETEENTH CENTURY
1800. The Academy incorporated, and the building
erected on Academ}^ Hill. It was not a
public school.
Bell (weighing 1000 lbs.) placed in North
tower.
The Methodist Society organized.
Population 5617.
1804. Pacific Bank and two insurance offices estab-
lished.
1807. Ship Union, Captain Edward Gardner, lost by
striking on a whale. Crew made voyage of
six hundred miles in boats.
1809. The Unitarian Society formed, the Rev. Seth
F. Swift, pastor.
1 8 10. Population 6807.
Ship Rose built at Brant Point. The Charles
Carroll, 1832; the Lexington and the Nan-
tucket, 1836, and the Joseph Starbuck, 1838,
and a large schooner were the only whalers
known to have been built at Nantucket.
181 1. Seventeen ships and seven schooners sailed
from Nantucket. Eleven of these were
captured by the British in 18 12 and 181 3.
1 8 14. Fight off Tom Never's Head, Nantucket, on
October loth, between boats from British
frigate Endymion and American privateer
Prhice of Neujchatel. British sailors re-
pulsed with loss of 121 men in killed and
prisoners. English merchant ship Douglas
captured and beached after the fight. There
was a Nantucket pilot (Kilbum) aboard of
the Prince oj Neujchatel.
372 Nantucket
1815. Social Library started; Josiah Hussey, Presi-
dent,
Twenty-six ships and twenty-four other vessels
sailed.
Bell brought from Lisbon, Portugal, and placed
in tower of Unitarian Church.
1816. Nantucket Gazette issued; lived on^y one year;
succeeded in 18 17 by the Weekly Magazine.
A society for the ' ' Suppression of Intemperance "
formed.
Steamer Eagle (owned by Jacob Barker), placed
on route between Nantucket and New Bed-
ford.
1818. Captain George W. Gardner, in ship Globe,
discovered "off-shore grounds," coast of
Chile; brought home 2090 barrels of sperm.
18 1 9. Ship Equator, Captain Elisha Folger, sailed and
was first ship from Nantucket to visit Hawai-
ian Islands, September 7, 18 19.
Captain Joseph Allen, in ship Maro, discovered
"Japan grounds."
1820. Seventy-two whale ships (aggregate 20,445
tons) besides smaller vessels, owned at
Nantucket.
Wreck at sea of ship Essex, Captain George
Pollard; sunk by an angry whale. Crew out
in boats three months, suffering fearful
privations. Sailed two thousand miles be-
fore rescued. Captain Pollard, the first mate,
and three men out of crew of twenty
survived.
Population 7266.
Nantucket Inquirer started; Samuel H. Jenks,
editor.
Chronological Data, 1602-1912 373
1822. Ship Globe, Captain Thomas Worth, sailed.
During 1823 the crew mutinied, kilhng Cap-
tain Worth and three officers. Ship returned
to Nantucket, November 14, 1824.
Arthur Cooper, a fugitive slave from Virginia,
with his family, were rescued from pursuers
and protected by Quaker citizens (first case
on record). Cooper lived and died here.
1823. Columbian Library Association formed.
1827. Two public schools established, and the "Coffin
School " (founded by Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin,
Bart.) opened.
1829. Steamer Marco Bozzaris placed on route, E. H.
Barker, Captain. Followed consecutively by
the Telegraph (1832), and the Massachusetts,
1842.
Ship Lopez, Captain Obed. Starbuck, sailed.
After fourteen months and fourteen days
brought home 2280 barrels of sperm oil,
valued at $50,000.
1830. Ship Sarah, Captain Frederick Arthur, arrived.
Out two years eleven months, and brought
home 3497 barrels of sperm oil, valued at
$98,000 — the largest amount of sperm oil
ever brought in.
Division in Society of Friends, the "Hicksites"
seceding.
1833. Meeting-house built on Main Street for Hicksite
Friends. Used for several years, then sold.
Original body of Friends built meeting-house on
Fair Street, comer of Ray's Court, also a
Friends' school (John Boadle, master).
Sloop Fame, Captain Peter Myrick, sailed in
search of sea-serpents. Returned empty !
374 Nantucket
1834. New North meeting-house erected. Athenseum
incorporated.
1836. First great fire, Washington Hotel, Main
Street.
1838. High School opened. Great fire, loss, $300,000.
1839. Trinity Church (Episcopal) erected in Broad
Street, parish having been organized a short
time previously by Rev. Moses Marcus, B.D.
1840. Population 9712.
1 841. Anti-slavery convention in Athenaeum Hall.
1842. Whaling culminated; eighty-six ships and four
smaller vessels owned at Nantucket.
The Camels (floating dock) launched.
September 23d, ship Constitution, Captain Obed.
R. Bunker, taken out by Camels.
October 13th, ship Peru, Captain Joshua Coffin,
brought in over Bar by Camels. Great
enthusiasm in Nantucket.
1845. Nantucket Weekly Mirror issued, John Moris-
sey, editor.
1846. Wreck of ship Earl of Eglinton, Captain Niven,
off Tom Never' s Head.
From this date whaling declines.
July 13th and 14th. Great fire which almost
devastated the town.
1847. Pine-groves planted by Josiah Sturgis.
1849. Nine vessels sailed from Nantucket for San
Francisco this year, bearing away many
Nantucketers.
1850. Population 8779.
Center Street Friends' meeting-house built.
Sankaty Lighthouse erected; first lighted
February 2d.
1852-3. More pine-groves planted.
Chronological Data, 1 602-191 2 375
1854. Gaslight first used on the island.
Abram Quary, Indian half-breed, died, aged
eighty-two years and ten months, on Novem-
ber 25th.
1855. Steamer Island Home placed on route. Con-
tinued running until 1895.
Dorcas Honorable, the last pure-blooded
Indian, died January 12, 1855.
1856. Government lighthouse built at Brant Point.
i860. Six vessels sailed from Nantucket.
Population 6064.
1 861-5. Nantucket sent 213 men into the Union Army,
and 126 into Navy, 56 more than her quota.
1 86 1 -8. Fourteen vessels sailed from Nantucket.
1865. Population 4748 ; 809 voters.
High School Alumni Association organized.
Reunions held 1865, 1866, 1869.
Nantucket Inquirer purchased by Hussey and
Robinson and merged in Mirror under name
of Inquirer and Mirror.
December 25th, ship Newton wrecked off Surf-
Side. All hands perished.
1868. Barque R. L. Bar stow sailed. She was the last
whaler owned at Nantucket.
1869. Historical map of Nantucket surveyed and
drawn by the Rev. Ferdinand C. Ewer, D.D.
Three vessels sailed from Nantucket. Barque
Oak, Captain W. B. Thompson, sailed Novem-
ber 1 6th, and was sold in Panama in 1872.
1870. May 30th, arrived barque Amy, Captain Joseph
Winslow, with 1350 barrels sperm oil, and June
14th, brig Eunice H. Adams, Captain Zenas M.
Coleman, last whaler to arrive at Nantucket.
Population 4123.
376 Nantucket
1872. Nantucket begins to be popular as a summer
resort, as first suggested and advocated by
Mark Salom, of Boston, in 1865.
1873. Nantucket Relief Association organized.
1874. Two steamboats a day during summer, instead
of one.
1875. Population 3201; 890 legal voters.
1876. Steamer runs between Nantucket and Wau-
winet.
1878. Nantucket Journal started; Arthur H. Gardner,
editor.
1880. Population 3727.
Introduction of water supply by Wannacomet
Water Co; Moses Joy, Jr., projector and
first President.
1 88 1. Reunion of Coffin family.
Nantucket Railroad constructed to Surf-Side.
1882. February 5th, steamer Island Home nearly
wrecked off Tuckernuck.
1884. Nantucket Railroad extended to 'Sconset.
1886. Cable communication with Nantucket, by the
United States Signal Service, satisfactorily
installed.
Consolidation effected between the Nantucket
& Cape Cod Steamboat Co., and the New
Bedford, Vineyard & Nantucket Steamboat
Co., with corporate name "New Bedford,
Martha's Vineyard & Nantucket Steam-
boat Co." Steamer Nantucket built by the
above company, and placed upon the route
in July.
(889. Electric lighting introduced.
1890. Population 3268.
1 89 1. Steamer Gayhead placed upon the route.
Chronological Data, 1 602-1 91 2 377
1894. State road (macadamized) to Siasconset com-
menced, and two miles completed.
Nantucket Historical Association organized and
incorporated. J. Sidney Mitchell, M.D.,
President. Friends' meeting-house purchased
for headquarters.
1895. Nantucket Central Railroad Company rebuilt
road by shorter route to 'Sconset.
Centennial celebration, anniversary of the
changing of name from Sherburne to Nan-
tucket ; also bi-centennial of incorporation of
county of Nantucket.
1897. August, old Swain windmill sold at auction;
purchased for Nantucket Historical Associa-
tion through the generosity of Miss C. L. W.
French, of Boston.
1898. Dr. J. Sidney Mitchell, president of Nantucket
Historical Association, died.
1899. W. F. Barnard elected president of Nantucket
Historical Association.
William Hosier, last male member of the Society
of Friends, died.
1900. Eunice Paddock, last member of the Society of
Friends, died. Memorial fountain erected
by Abiah Folger Chapter, D. A. R., to
the memory of Abiah Folger Franklin,
mother of Dr. Benjamin Franklin, near
the site of her birthplace, a short dis-
tance westward of present town, on Madeket
road.
Twenty-seven miles of electric wire on the
island up to August, and nearly 1000 incan-
descent lights.
Heavy snowstorm December 26th.
378 Nantucket
1 90 1. Nantucket Central Railroad service instituted
July 4th.
Wireless telegraphy installed at Siasconset,
August 3d.
1902. St. Paul's Episcopal Church consecrated, June
nth.
Last zero temperature on island, l.i below,
Tuesday, December 9th.
1903. Coffin School reopened for teaching of manual
training, October 5th.
Athletic Association organized, during October.
1904. Civic League formed, January 14th.
New Bathing Pavilion erected on the beach.
1905. Nantucket Athletic Club opened to members
and friends, April 5th.
The museum at Nantucket Athenaeum was
transferred to the Historical Association
during April.
1906. Alvin Hull died suddenly. He was a veteran
of the Civil War, and a whaler. He had been
a town-crier for over twenty years.
New Bathing Pavilion opened at Sconset, during
August.
1907. Nantucket adopted modem telegraph fire-alarm
system during May.
Marconi wireless station at Sconset destroyed
by fire, November 15th
1908. Cliff beacons discontinued, March ist.
Maria Mitchell Memorial Observatory dedicated
July 15th.
1909. "Billy Clark" died, Tuesday, August 17th. He
was bom on November 17, 1846, at Nan-
tucket and had been town-crier for many
years; he was much esteemed and respected.
Chronological Data, 1602-1912 379
Celebration of 250th anniversary of settlement
of island, W. F. Macy presided.
1910. The rebuilding of the State road was finished
to Sconset at a cost of $52,983.83.
191 1. Nantucket's most successful season and Scon-
set's also. Ten thousand visitors on the
island.
191 2. The new auto-chemical arrived.'
' Revised and extended from list prepared by Mr. H. S. Wyer. (By
permission.)
INDEX
Aborigines, The, 35-57
Academy built originally, 160
AcKLEY, Seth Mitchell, Admiral,
biographical sketch of, 242-244
Agricultural Society established,
173
Akeamong, or Ahkeiman, son of
Potconet, 39
Algonquian Confederacy, i
Alumni meetings of High School
Associations, 176
America, North, extension of ice-
sheet in, 4
Amerind Local Place-names,
26-32
Amerind proper names mentioned
in deeds, etc., 48-52
Amerinds, origin still unsettled, i
Athenaeum made a free library,
190
Athenaeum Museum transferred
to Historical Association, 192
Autopscot, one of chief sachems,
37; family, 38; character of, 43
Autopscot's territory, 38
Baker, Rev. Louise S., bio-
graphical sketch of, 230
Bank, Nantucket, robbed of
$20,000, 98
Banner year of whaling industry,
170
Bar, efforts to remove, 154
Barnard, Thomas, and Robert,
67
Bathing beach leased, 199
Beacon at Monomoy, 169
Beacons, Cliff, erected, 169
Bell, Portuguese, placed in Uni-
tarian Church, 164
381
Botany of Nantucket, 245-268
Brant Point, 279; lighthouse
erected, 173
"Bug-lights" temporarily discon-
tinued, 184; finally abandoned,
202
Bureau, Weather, established, 189
Burial-place of Indians unknown,
55 ; suggestions as to, 56
Cable, submarine, unsuccessful
efforts to lay, 174; to mainland
completed, 189
"Cambridge Spring," 206
Cash House demolished, 181
Cemetery, new, incorporated, 188
Central R. R. Co. service insti-
tuted, 196
Character, racial, of Nantucket
Indians, 56
Chesapeake incident, 155
Children's Aid Society founded,
176
Christianity, efforts to promote,
among Indians, 46
Chroxological Data (1602-
1912), 365-379
Church, first, 86-88
Churches on Island, 163-167
Civic government instituted, 90
Civic League formed, 199
Clan Cofiin, reunion of, 184
"Clark Billy," Town Crier, 165
Clock, town, first, placed in Uni-
tarian Church, 164; new town,
164
Coal supply, lack of, owing to
strike, 198
Coatue, 280
382
Index
Coffin, Captain George Wil-
liam, U. S. N., biographical
sketch of, 236-237
Coffin, Admiral, Sir Isaac,
Bart, biographical sketch of,
235-236
Coffin, Miriam (Keziah), bio-
graphical sketch of, 227-228
Coffin, Mark, career of, 161
Coffin School opened, 373; re-
opened, 198
Coffin, Tristram, character and
residence, 59-60; as Chief
Magistrate, 60
Commercial depression, general,
174
Correction, House of, 155
Coskata, 271
"Cows' Commons," 80
Criminal Indians, execution of, 45
Data, Chronological (1602-
1912), 365-379
Dead, all original sachems after
1680, 46
Deeds, Indian proper names men-
tioned in, 48-52
Description of "oldest house,"
207-213
Development, Early of Island,
78-102
Discovery of Island, 23-26
Dongan's Patent issued, 131
Dorcas Honorable, the last full-
blooded Indian, 55
Dredge-net, In the, 340-364
Dwellings, Early in Nan-
tucket, 205-221
Duration of Glacial Period, 3
Early Development of Island,
78-102
Early Dwellings in Nantucket
205-221
Early public buildings, no record
of, 89
Earop, Isaac, father of Dorcas
Honorable, 55
Education on Island, 88
Eleazer Folger, first schoolmaster,
159
Electric and Power Co. estab-
lished, 199
Electric-light plant first operated,
190
Electricity, Sconset wireless sta-
tion lighted by, 198
Eminent Nantucketers, 222-
244
Epidemic fatal among Indians,
63-54
Ewer, Revd. Ferdinand C,
D.D., biographical sketch of,
234-235
Execution of Criminal Indians, 45
Exodus of islanders, 100
Farming operations, 83
"Fight, Maddequecham, " 156
Fire, extensive on Island, 170;
great, devastating in 1846, 170-
First trees planted in town, 158
Fishermen, Indians good, 46
Fishing-stages, 270
Fleet had seventy- two vessels and
eighty coasters in 1820, 158
Flowers and plants of Island, 253-
268
Folger, A b i a h, biographical
sketch of, 225-226
Folger, Charles James, bio-
graphical sketch of, 230-231
Folger, Peter, 63
Folger, Walter, Jr., 231-232
Fountain, Benjamin Franklin, 277
"French Spoliations," 101-102
Gardner, Anna, biographical
sketch of, 229-230
Gardner, John, biographical
sketch of, 64
Geological, epochs, 2-3; structure,
8; succession of events, 9-12
Geology of Nantucket, 1-12
Gibbs, John, Indian preacher,
sought by King Philip, 86
Glacial action, 2-6; results of, 6
Glacial period, characteristics of, 6
Grant, General, visited Nantucket,
182
Great Point (or Nauma), 270;
lighthouse destroyed by fire, 167
Greenleaf Stephen, 66
Grist-mill, first, 84
Hanaford, Phebe a., biographi-
cal sketch of, 228-229
Harbor, outer, 13; inner, 14
"Haulover, "14, 271
Index
383
Hayes, rejoicing on election of, as
President, 182
High-School Alumni Association,
meetings of, 176
Hills on Island, 13
Historical Association founded,
192
Honorable, Dorcas, the last Nan-
tucket Indian, 55
Hotel, Point Breeze, opened, 191
Hough's papers, 131
House-lots, 85
House of Correction built, 155
"House, Oldest," in Nantucket,
207-216
House, "Old Parliament," 206;
Swain's, Pol pis, 216; George
Gardner's, 216; Benjamin To-
bey's, 218; Caleb Gardner's,
219; Major Josiah Coffin's, 220;
Paddock's, 221; Reuben Joy's,
221; Zaccheus Macy's, 221;
Maria Mitchell's, 221
Houses, Old, on Nantucket,
205-221
HussEY, Christopher, 65
Hygienic ice, manufacture of,
on Island, 197
Ice-sheet, glacial, extent of, 4
Indian, Benjamin Tashama a
noted, 54-55; last full-blooded,
on Island, 55; villages, 269
Indian, Place-Names Local, 26-
33
Indians, amicable with settlers,
44; rum the curse of the, 45;
land litigation, 45; efforts of, to
regain land, 45 ; modes of punish-
ment inflicted on, 45; Christian,
45-46; execution of, 46; original
Sachems all dead soon after
1680, 46; good fishermen, 46;
number of, before epidemic, 48 ;
number of, after epidemic, 48;
disappearing rapidly, 48; proper
names of mentioned in deeds,
48-52; a few special, burial
place of, unknown, 55; sug-
gestions as to burial places of,
56; racial character of the, 56;
fatal epidemic among, 63-64;
symptoms of degeneracy among,
78
In the Dredge-net, 340-364
Insurance offices established, 155
Island, purchase of, 58
Island Plants and Flowers,
253-268; Steamers, 320-328
Island Review, first issued, 182
Islanders, exodus of, 100; hopeful
and prospering, 158
Jacob, son of Potconet, 39
Jail, first, 86
Journey, first, to Island, 69
Joy, Moses, established water-
works, 183
King Philip visits Nantucket,44, 90
Korduda's law, 53
Legends of Nantucket, 17-23
Life-savers, duties, 304; character
of, 308
Life-Saving Stations, 304-308;
Surf-Side, 306; Great Neck,
306; Muskeget Island, 306;
Coskata, 306
Light, electric-, plant operated,
190
Lighthouse, erected on Brant
Point, 94; erected at Great
Point, 98; at Great Point de-
stroyed by fire, 157; present,
erected at Brant Point, 173
Light-ship, new, placed in Sound,
191
Litigation of Indians to regain
lands, 45
Local Indian Place-Names,
26-33
Lovelace's Patent issued, 131
Macy, career of General George,
during Civil War, 175
Macy, Thomas, "first settler,"
61-62
Macy, William Hussey, 237-241
" Maddequecham Fight," 157
Madeket, 277
Main Street paved, 169; repaved,
169
Maria Mitchell, biographical
sketch of, 222-225
Masonic Festival held, 181
Masquetuck, 281
Massachusetts Humane Society,
object of, 305; boathouses of,
306
384
Index
Mayhew, Thomas, purchased
Island, 68; character of, 68; re-
served land for own use, 79
Mayhew's Deed of Sale, 70
Mill, old, purchased, 195
Mitchell, Wh^liam and Henry,
biographical notice of, 232-234
Monomoy, 280
Monument, Soldiers', erected, 182;
to Forefathers, near Maxcy's
Pond, 182
Moors, character of, 14-15
MoTT, LucRETiA, biographical
notice of, 225
IMuskeget Island, 278
Muskeget Life-Saving Station
destroyed by fire, 190
Nantucket, Geology of, 1-12;
Glacial period in, 2-6; duration
of, 3; a terminal moraine, 7;
geological structure of, 8; suc-
cession of geological events in,
9-12; shape and surface of, 12;
Physiography, 12-16; Topog-
raphy, 12-16; outline of coast,
13; hills on, 13; southern plains,
13; harbors, 13-14; "Haulover,"
14; moors, character of, 14-15;
woods on, 15; roads, 15; town,
15-16; Legends of, 17-23;
Discovery of, 23; Early
Voyages to, 23-26; Amerind
Place-Names in, 26-32; In-
dian tribes in, 36; Natick In-
dians, 36; Nipmuck Indians,
36; number of Indians in 36;
sachems of, 36; chief sachems,
36; his family, 36-37; Nicorno-
ose, son and successor of Wau-
winet, 37; his territory, 37;
signed first Indian deed, 40;
Nanahuma, a petty sachem of,
41; territory of, 41; character,
43; King Philip visits, 44; In-
dians of, amicable with set-
tlers, 44; Island purchased by
settlers, 58; royal grant of, to
Plymouth Co., 68; sold to
Thomas Mayhew, 68; sold to
settlers by Thomas Mayhew,
68; under jurisdiction of New
York, 68; divided into twenty-
seven shares, 70; Mayhew's
deed of sale of, 71-72; sachems'
deed of sale of, 71-72; first
Indian deed, 74; early Indian
deeds, 74-75; Early Develop-
ment OF, 78-102; area of, 79;
subdivision of shares, 80 ; organ-
ization of shareholders, 80;
first sheep-shearing on, 83;
mills on, 84; house-lots on,
85; primitive education on,
88; early public buildings, no
record of, 89; civic government
instituted on, 90; Selectmen
first appointed, 90; town in-
corporated, 90; shore-whaling
commenced, 91; name of town
changed to Sherburne, 91;
migration from Wannacomet
to Wesko, 91; progress on
Island, 92; whaHng industry
organized, 92; many new in-
dustries installed, 93; Brant
Point lighthouse first built, 94;
inoculation instituted on, 94;
Revolutionary War and its
effect on, 94-98; lighthouse
erected on Great Point, 98;
bank robbed of $20,000, 99;
resumes modern form of abo-
riginal name, 99; streets first
named, 102; whale-fishery,
vide Whaling Industry, 103;
Quakerism, it 5-129; subject
to New York Province, 1660-
1693, 130; Records, 130-153;
reverted to governance of Mas-
sachusetts Province 1693, 131;
XlXth Century, 154-204;
ships returning, hopes brighten-
irigj 155; Gazette first issued,
157; "third commercial town
in Commonwealth" (1830), 161 ;
Athenaeum incorporated, 167-
168; destroyed by fire, 168;
ofificial report of loss, 168; re-
built and reopened, 168;
financial panic, 169; Norwegian
pines first planted, 171; Select-
men gave orders as to ringing
of bell, 171; general decline of,
set in, 171; reasons for, 171;
Main Street planted with elms
and Centre with maples, 172;
population, in 1850, 8779, a
falling off of nearly 1000 since
1840, 173; Cape Cod Railway
Index
^85
Nantucket — Continued
extended to Hyannis, 173;
more practicable service ar-
ranged between Island and
Woods Hole, 173; first installa-
tion of gas works and light
173; Asylum for Poor, and
House of Correction removed
to, 173; steamer Island-Home
arrived at, 173; Agricultural
Society established, 173; com-
mercial depression, general, for
three years, during Civil War,
174; by sending 56 men above
quota became " Banner- town "
of State, 175; seventy-four
men from, killed during war,
175; population of, decreased
to 4830 after war, 176; reached
nadir of her misfortunes, 177;
relative proportions of old
standard family names, from
Census 1870, 177; Mark Salom
advocates development of, as
health resort, 177; rapidly in-
creasing number of visitors to,
177; new steamboat service
inaugurated, 178; "two boats
a day" campaign at length
successful, 178; new era of
prosperity awakened, 179;
progress made through opposi-
tion, 179; new hotels and
summer cottages built, 180;
women of, as usual, do most of
work, 180; a new progressive
spirit manifested on, 181;
Soldiers' jNIonument erected,
182; Forefathers' monument
erected, 182; Island Revieiv
first issued, 1874, 182; ceased
publication, 1878, 182; Journal
first issued, 1878, 182; water-
works established, 183; Rail-
way Co. chartered by Legisla-
ture, 184; ground broken for
railroad extension, 184; appro-
priation of $50,000 for improve-
ment of harbor, 184; "Bug-
lights" temporarily discon-
tinued, 184; waterworks suc-
cessfully tested, 184; Clan
Coffin, great reunion of, 184;
Improvement and Industrial
Association instituted, 185; five
oxen driven over ice from
steamer to shore, 185; new
town-clock presented to town
and accepted, 185; work com-
menced on new jetty, 185;
new gravestone placed on
John Gardner's grave, 185;
shoals dates of surveys, appro-
priations, etc., 186; plot of
land secured for Union Chapel
at Siasconset, 186; President
Arthur visited, 186; most severe
snow-storm, 186; sewerage
system advocated, 186; Surf-
Side Hotel opened, 187; first
wedding solemnized at Tucker-
nuck, 187; Union Chapel opened
at Sconset, 187; unusually
heavy surf at Surf-Side, 187;
Atlantic Hall taken down to
become part Hotel Nantucket,
187; sixtieth anniversary of
Methodist Episcopal Chapel,
187; harbor sealed with ice,
187; new cemetery incorporated,
188; new bell-buoy placed on
bar, 188; railway extended to
Sconset, 188; shock of earth-
quake felt over, 188; General
Grant's funeral, memorial ser-
vices, 188; installation of elec-
tric telegraph completed, 188;
Weather Bureau established,
189; cable to mainland com-
pleted, 189; property, personal
and real of, 190; electric light
plant first operated, 190; I\Ius-
keget Life-Saving Station de-
stroyed by fire, 190; Point
Breeze Hotel opened, 191 ; sewer-
age system adopted, 191 ; railway
extension franchise granted, 191 ;
Association of Sons and Daugh-
ters of, instituted, 192; de-
vastating whirlwind on, 192;
Gibbs's Swamp, great fire on,
192; Historical Association
established, 192; road, new
State, work on, began, 193;
widely advertised, 193; centen-
nial celebration observed, 193;
Central R. R. extension fin-
ished, 195; Old Mill purchased,
195; collision between steamers
Nantucket and Gayhead, 195;
386
Index
Nantucket — Continued
"Portland" storm occurred,
195; Union Street repaved,
196; appropriation for River
and Harbor Bill $70,000, 197;
regulation of "fares and
freights" carried in House, 198;
coal supply, lack of, owing to
strike, 198; act passed concern-
ing Sconset water supply, 198;
zero temperature at, 198; in-
scription found in tower of
Unitarian Church, 198; Coffin
School reopened, 198; Athletic
Club incorporated, 198; Electric
and Power Co., 199; Civic
League formed, 199; Bathing
Beach leased, 199; New York
Yacht Club Station at, 200;
corner-stone of Historical So-
ciety's new building laid, 200;
appropriation of $80,000 for
harbor and channel, 200; recep-
tion at Historical Association's
rooms, 200; "Billy Clark"
had a "Song Recital," 200;
"Nantucket Hotel" property
sold, 201; again advertised, 201;
Alvin Hull, one of town criers,
died, 201; modern telegraph
fire-alarm system adopted, 201;
crowded with visitors, 201;
Marconi wireless station de-
stroyed by fire, 201; new
automobile R. R. mail service
installed, 201; worst storm for
twenty years, 201; new light-
ship placed in position, 201;
appropriation for band, town
gymnasium, etc., 202; new
stand pipe at waterworks to
be built, 202; estimated cost
of jetties, 202; "Bug-lights"
discontinued, 202; automobiles
to be excluded from, 202;
Maria Mitchell Observatory
dedicated, 202; new range-
lights placed at Brant Point,
202; appropriations for town
nearly doubled in sixteen years,
202; "Billy Clark" died in
1909, 203; another appropria-
tion of $50,000 for jetties, 203;
annual appropriation at town-
meeting, $71,681.08, 203;
Sewer Commissioners' report
showed cost $7,524.00, 203;
new R. R. rolling-stock very
satisfactory, 203; 10,000 visi-
tors on island, 203; annual
valuation of, shows increase
of $160,000 over last year, 203;
new steamboat Sankaty ar-
rived. May 2, 191 1, 204; 191 1,
a banner year for visitors, 204
Nantucket Early Dwellings,
205-221; "oldest house,"
207-216
Nantucket Flora, review of
and introduction to, 245-253;
list of, 253-268
Nantucket Lif e-S a v 1 n g
Service and Wrecks, 304-319
Nantucket Newspapers, 320-
339
Nantucket Steamers, 320-328
Nantucket, town of, 278-279
Nantucketers, Eminent, 222-
244
Nantucketers, Quaint, 284;
complex personality, 284;
Quakers and sailor-men, 285;
log-books and ship record, 286;
Peleg Folger, 286; Pacific Club,
288; Captains' Room, 289;
idiosyncrasies a century ago,
289; Captain Defriez, 289;
early municipal authorities,
291; early municipal records,
291-294; inherent humor, 294;
anecdotes, nautical, Quakerish,
and personal, 294; Newbegin
sisters, 299; Mrs. McCleave,
299; the town criers, 300; sum-
mary, 303
" Old Mill " purchased, 195
"Oldest house," 207
Old houses on Nantucket, 205-
221
Operations, farming, 83
Outline of coast, 12
Oxen driven over ice, 185
Pacific, first whaling expedition
to, 98
Pacific Bank established, 155
Panic, a second prevailed on is-
land, 173
Parker, Frederick, hermit, 272
Index
387
Patent, Lovelace's, incorporating
Nantucket, 131; Dongan's
granted, 131
Paul's, St., new church conse-
crated, 198
Phenomenal fall of temperature,
157
Philip, King, visits Nantucket,
44, 90
Physiography of Nantucket,
12-16
Pike, Robert, 66
Place-Names, Local Amerind,
26-32
Pleistocene period, 2-3
Pocomo, 283
Polpis, 282
Poor Farms, 161-163
Population of island, in 1820, 158;
after Revolutionary War, 154
"Portland" storm occurred, 195
Potconet, one of original sachems,
38-40; territory of, 38; family
of, 39; living when settlers
arrived, 39; little known of,
date of death unknown, 39-40
Pottacohannet, same as Potconet,
38-40
Preeminent Indian sachems, 42
Privations and losses caused by
war (1812-1815), 156
Proper names of Amerinds men-
tioned in deeds, 48-52
Proprietors of island, 70; first
meeting of, 70
Public buildings, early, no records
of, 89
Public schools founded, 159
Punishments inflicted upon re-
fractory Indians, 45
Quady, Abraham Api, same as
Quary, 55
"Quaint Nantucketers, " 284-
303
Quaise, 281
Quakerism: in Nantucket, 115-
129; founding of, 115; principle
of belief, 115; progress of, 116;
persecution of, 116; aggregate
number of, 116; first to visit
Nantucket, 117; visiting from
New England and abroad,
117-118; preachers, three dis-
tinguished, 118; MaryStarbuck
converted, 119; her character
and influence, 119; fully es-
tablished in Nantucket, 119;
Mary Starbuck's death, 120;
serious loss to, 120; first
meeting-house built, 120; new
and larger meeting-house built,
120; removal to Wesko, 120;
still larger meeting-house built,
120; fourth meeting-house
built, 120; climax of, in 1794,
121; character and principles,
121; form of church govern-
ment, 121; some distinguished
visitors from England, 121-122;
half of population on island
professed Quakers, before end
of eighteenth century, 121-122;
intrinsic causes of decline, 122;
Hicks, Elias, reformer, his
views, 123; gradually decreas-
ing congregations, 124; Gurney,
J. J., another reformer, his
views, 124; Wilbur, John, a
contender for orthodox, 125;
bitter contest long waged be-
tween Gurneyites and Wil-
burites, 125; Nantucket always
represented orthodox, 125;
action in Supreme Court as to
division of property, 125; re-
sult of action in favor of Gur-
neyites, 125; Wilburites strug-
gled on for eighteen years, 126;
Gurneyites struggled twenty-
two years, 125; last meeting
of Quakers held in 1867, 125;
meeting-house was sold in 1894,
126; after flourishing for a
century, only two Quakers
resided in Nantucket in 1899,
and both died in 1900, 126;
has no living representative
in Nantucket to-day, 126; Mr.
H. B. Worth's review of, 126;
writer's Summary of, 127
Quary, Abraham Api, last Indian
half-breed, 55
Quibby executed for murder of
H. Gardner, 45
Quidnet, 272
Racial character of Indians, 56
Railway extension by new route
sanctioned, 191
388
Index
Reception at Historical Associa-
tion rooms, 200
Records: of Nantucket, 130-
153 (cover a period of two
hundred and fifty years con-
tained in one hundred and
seventy volumes, at Albany,
copied by Wm. Hough and pub-
lished in 1856); titles from
Hough's book, 132-134; town,
135; court, 139; county Regis-
try of Deeds, 142; proprie-
tors' 147; Indian deeds, 150;
Probate Court, 151
Regulation of " fares and freights,"
carried in House, 198
Roads on island, 15
"Roll-call last" of Nantucket
Indians, 52-53
Sachems of Nantucket, 36
Sankaty Head, 273; lighthouse,
273
Saul's Hills, 274
School, High, instituted, 160;
New High, built, 160; Tucker-
nuck, Madcket, Sconset, and
Polpis, 160; Coffin, founded,
160; closed, r6o; reopened, 160
Schools, public, 159-160
Sconset (Siasconset), 274-276;
milestones set, 159; marked
progress made, 188; wireless
telegraphy installed in, 196;
wireless station lighted by elec-
tricity, 198; Water-supply Act
passed concerning, 198; Mar-
coni station established at, 198;
Marconi station destroyed by
fire, 201; improvements sug-
gested for, 203; Carnival held
at, 204
Selectmen, first, appointed, 90
Secacacha, 273; Pond, 273
Settlement of island by whites,
58-68; white, 68-77
Settlers, amicable with Indians,
44; character of, 58-59; first,
60-67; first duties of, 79
Sewerage system adopted, 191
Shape and surface of island, 12
Shawkemo, 281
Sheep-shearing anniversary ob-
served, 189
Sherburne Bluffs, 280
Sherburne Lyceum instituted, 182
Sherburne selected as name of
new town, 91
Shimmo, 281
Ship-building first instituted on
island, 158
Ships built in Nantucket, names
of, 158
Shore- whaling commenced, 91
Shouel, James, "Korduda, " 53
Smith's Point, 277
Snowfall unusually heavy, 181,
196
Southern plains of Nantucket,
13
Special Indians, a few, 54
Springs, principal, on island, 281
Squam, 272
Starbuck, Edward, 62
Starbuck, Joseph, ship built and
wrecked at Nantucket, 158
Starbuck, Mary, biographical
sketch of, 227
Steam service restored between
Nantucket and New Bedford
after twenty-five years, 183
Steamers, Island, 320-328
Storm, terrible, 170; terrific dam-
ages amounting to $50,000, 182;
protracted, 183
Streets of Nantucket first named,
102
Submarine cable, unsuccessful
efforts to lay, 189
Summerhaves, Lieut.-Col. J. W.,
biographical sketch of, 241-242
Surf-Side, 277
Swain's Neck, 282
Swain, Richard, and John, 67
Tashama, Benjamin, a noted
Indian, 54; Sarah, 54
Telegraph, electric, installation of
completed on island, 188
Telegraphic fire-alarm system
adopted on island, 201
Telegraphy, wireless, installed at
Sconset, 196
Temperature phenomenal fall of
on island, 157
Tom Never's Head, 276
Topography of Nantucket, 12
Town of Nantucket, 15-16
Town clock, first, installed, 164;
new, installed, 164
Index
389
Town criers: Billy Clark, 165;
Alvin Hull, 300; Charles H.
Chase, 300; W. B. Ray, 300
Town rebuilt and renovated after
great fire, 171
Town-house, first, 86
Trees first planted in town, 158
Tuckemuck Island, 278
"Two boats a day" inaugurated,
181
Union Chapel opened at Sconset,
187
Union Street repaved, 196
Unitarian Church, inscription
found in tower of, 198
Villages and Districts, 269-283
Villages, Indian, 269
Voyagers, early, to Nantucket,
23-26
Wampanoags, 35
Wanackmanack, chief sachem of
Island, 37; his territory, 37; his
family, 37; his character, 43
War declared against Great
Britain (1812), 156; Civil, posi-
tion achieved by Nantucket
during, 175
Waterworks established at Wan-
nacomet, 183
Wauwinet, chief sachem of island,
37; his territory'', 37; his family,
37; his character, 43; village,
271
Weather Bureau established, 189
Webster, Daniel, visited island,
159
Wesko, town removed from Wan-
nacomet to, 205
West schoolhouse rebuilt after
fire, 174
Whale-fishing Industry, 103-
115: first vessel engaged in
whaling sailed for Pacific
Ocean, 98; whale-fishing, its
achievements and universality,
104; contrast since decay, 104;
earliest history obscure, 105;
unexecuted deed of James
Lopar 105; original purchasers
of island went on first expedi-
tion, 106; first whale kiUed^ a
"scragg, " 107; Ichabod Pad-
dock engaged as instructor,
107; organization of island for
whaling, 107-108; first sperm
whale found dead on shore,
108; Christopher Hussey killed
first sperm whale, 108; vessels
fitted out for deep-sea whaling,
108; six sloops engaged in
whaling in 171 5, 109; Straight
Vv'harf built about 1823, 109; in
1730, the island owned twenty-
five whaling vessels, 109; shore-
whaling reached its climax about
1826, 109; eighty-six whales
taken in 1826, 109; Davis Strait
visited by whalers in 1732, 109;
trade eventually became world-
wide 109; the fisliing-fleet in
Revolutionary' times, lio-iii;
150 vessels in, no; havoc with
industrj' during "Seven Years'
War," I lo-i 1 1 ; first map of Gulf
Stream drawn bj^ Nantucketer,
no; recovery very slow after
war, III; " French spoliations "
entailed a loss to Nantucket of
8150,000,112 ; effects of war of
1 8 12, 112; after 181 5 recovery
was rapid, 112; in 1820 Nan-
tucket had a fleet of seventy-
two whale-ships besides brigs,
schooners, and sloops, 113; 1842
was the banner year and cul-
mination of Nantucket whale-
fishing, when she possessed
eighty-six ships, 170; from this
year the industry declined owing
to unavoidable causes, 170; in
1869 the last whaling ship the
Oak sailed from Nantucket,
never to return, 176
Whipping-post used, 100
White, Timothy, schoolmaster
and minister, 159
Wireless station, Sconset, lighted
b}^ electricit}-, 198
Woods on island, 100
Wrecks and Life-Saving Ser-
vice, 308-316
ERRATA.
Wannacomer should be W^nnacomet.
Maddequet, Site of the First Town, shoiihl be
Wannacomet, Site of the First Town.
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