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13S78V 


Xo'^ 


jZ.      131 


t  .  1.^ 


J 


THE 


EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 


LOKDOX:    PIIIKTKD   DT 

SIH>TTI.SVrOOOB    AMU    CO^    VKW-8TRKF.T    BQrABB 

AMD   riKLUILKVT   STKKJiT 


r  T  Tf    C  f      !r  '  * 


NARRATIA'E 


OF  THE 


EUPHRATES    EXPEDITION 


CABHIKD    ON 


BY  ORDER   OP   THE   BRITISH   GOVERNMENT 


DciiiKt^  THE  Ykaijs  18.^5,  isr»li,  and  IS^T. 


»Y 


GENERAL    FRANCIS    KAWDON    ClIESNEY, 

OOLONEL-COMIIANDANT  IItii    EUIGADC  ROTAL  AUTIILCRY, 

D.C.L.  F.K.S.  F.ILG.S. 

COUMAilDER  OF  TUJi  EXPKDITIDrr. 


:V\ 


LONDON: 

LONGMANS,    OllEEN,    AND    (M). 

J2r3.     <^    .     /3f. 


f 


1' 


■: 


{■ 

1: 


TO 


HER  MOST  GRACIOUS  MAJESTY 


QUEEN  VIGTORIA. 


Madam, 

Permit  me  to  place  at  Yoiir  Majesty's 
feet  the  result  of  a  Special  Service  which 
was  undertaken  by  a  Vote  of  Parliament, 
the  Narrative  of  which,  owing  to  peculiar 
circumstances,  has  remained  unpublished  up 
to  this  moment. 

I  would  briefly  mention  to  Your  Majesty 
that  two  armed  steam-vessels,  with  a  body 
of  scientific  ofiicers,  artillerymen,  sappers,  and 
seamen,  were  placed  under  my  orders,  to 
carry  out  the  Survey  and  Navigation  of  the 
Rivers  Euphrates  and  Tigris,  with  the  view 
of  efiecting  a  more  rapid  Overland  Commu- 
nication with  India,  by  the  commands  of 
His  late  Majesty  King  William  IV. ;  and 
that,  having  successfully  accomplished  these 
objects,   the   detailed    Surveys    and   Maps    of 


VI  DEDICATION. 

the  Rivers  Euphrates  and  Tigris  were,  by 
command  of  Your  Majesty,  placed  before  both 
Houses  of  Parliament. 

During  the  time  which  has  elapsed  since, 
in  1832,  I  took  the  first  steps  towards  the 
all-important  object  of  our  Overland  Com- 
munication with  India,  it  has  pleased  Your 
Majesty  to  advance  me  successively  from  the 
rank  of  Captain,  which  I  then  held,  to  that 
of  General  in  Your  Majesty's  Army. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be. 

Madam, 
With  profound  respect, 

Your    Majesty's    most    humble    and 

devoted  servant, 

F.  R.  CHESNEY, 

General,  Royal  Artillery. 


PREFACE 


TN  offering  to  the  public  the  Narrative  of  an  Expe- 
-*"  (lition  carried  out  more  than  thirty  years  ago,  and 
written  now  at  a  period  of  life  when  most  men  seek 
for  repose  of  mind  and  body,  it  would  seem  as  if  some 
explanation  were  necessary  to  accoimt  for  the  delay 
which  has  taken  place  in  its  publication.  This  ex- 
planation I  have  given  in  the  introductory  and  con- 
cluding chapters  of  my  work,  and  I  have  therefore 
little  left  to  add  to  what  the  reader  will  there  find 
detailed. 

Had  not  Her  Majesty's  Government  proposed  and 
requested  that  this  Narrative  should  appear,  I  confess 
that  at  this  late  period  I  should  not  have  had  the  heart 
to  undertake  and  complete  it.  It  has,  however,  been 
to  me  a  '  labour  of  love ;'  and  in  recalling  to  life  the 
various  incidents  of  the  Euphrates  Expedition,  which 
have  slumbered  and  slept  for  so  many  years,  they 
have  come  forth  from  memory's  cells  with  much  of 
their  old  freshness,  and  have  renewed  all  that  interest 
in  the  important  question  of  an  improved  Overland 


VUl  PREFACE. 

Communication  with  India  which  repeated  disappoint- 
ment experienced  on  my  part  had  partially  crushed. 

When  a  man  feels  that  what  he  has  to  say  is  wortli 
saying — that  the  object  he  has  in  view  is  worth  carry- 
ing out — he  will,  if  he  be  worth  anything,  stick 
to  it  through  evil  report  and  good  report,  through 

rainy  days  and  fine.     Such  has  been  my  case;  even 
though,  as  in  the  instance  of  the  Euphrates  Koute  to 

India,  the  '  rainy  days  '  have  scarcely  been  intermitted 

by  any  gleams  of  sunshine. 

When  I  returned  from  the  East  in  1837,  it  was  with 
the  full  belief  that  a  question  of  such  vast  importance 
to  Great  Britian — nationally,  politically,  and  commer- 
cially— would  be  at  once  taken  up  warmly  by  the 
Government  and  the  public.  The  way  had  been 
opened — difficulties  which  at  one  time  looked  formid- 
able had  been  overcome  ;  the  Arabs  and  the  Turkish 
Government  were  most  favourable  to  the  projected 
Line  to  India.  But  thirty-one  years  have  since  passed, 
and  nothing  has  been  done  I 

Where  the  obstacles  lie — where  the  political  or 
monetary  hindrances  to  the  execution  of  this  great  and 
beneficial  project,  it  is  perhaps  scarcely  for  me  to 
indicate ;  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  England  must 
be  very  blind  to  her  true  interests  if  she  allow  it 
longer  to  remain  in  abeyance. 

My  exertions  in  the  cause  of  the  Euphrates  Eoute 
are  well  known..     During  the  last  ten  years  I  have 


PREFACE.  IX 

been  twice  to  Constantinople,  to  obtain  the  Sultan's 
Firman  for  a  Railway  from  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes  to 
the  Persian  Gulf ;  and  once  to  Syria,  to  examine  de  novo 
the  country  between  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Eu- 
phrates. On  the  latter  occasion  I  was  accompanied  by 
Sir  John  MacNeill  and  a  staff  of  engineers,  who  made  a 
most  careful  survey  of  the  Bay  and  of  the  country 
from  Suedia  onwards.  To  my  great  gratification,  I 
found  myself  recognised  and  most  cordially  welcomed 
by  the  Arabs,  whose  anxiety  for  the  opening-up  of 
their  country  had  much  increased  since  1837.  In 
1857  I  brought  the  subject  before  Parliament,  and  the 
efforts  of  Mr.  W.  P.  Andrew,  Chairman  of  the  Scindc 
and  Punjaub  Railway  Companies,  have  been  untiring 
in  endeavouring  to  organise  a  Line  of  Railway  vi/l 
Alepjx)  and  the  Euphrates,  with  such  slight  encourage- 
ment from  Government  as  would  give  confidence  and 
security  to  the  shareholders.  But  all  has  hitherto 
been  in  vain — ^and  why? 

In  sending  forth  this  Narrative  of  what  was  done  by 
the  pioneers  of  the  Euphrates  Route  to  India,  I  do  so 
with  the  earnest  hope  that  it  may  be  the  means  of 
affording  me  the  only  reward  which  I  now  covet — 
that  of  a  satisfactory  answer  to  this  very  simple  ques- 
tion. 

I  am  also  very  desirous  of  drawing  the  attention  of 

the  public  to  that  portion  of  my  work  comprised  in 
the  Appendix.     The  Contents   of  an   Appendix   arc 


X  PREFACE. 

usually  considered — ^by  the  general  reader  at  all  events 
— as  dry  and  uninteresting,  and  are  liable  to  be  passed 
over  without  even  a  cursory  perusal.  A  glance  at  the 
Table  of  Contents  of  this  volume  will  show  that  this  is 
not  the  case  in  the  present  instance. 

The  highly  interesting  Journals  of  tlie  late  Major- 
General  J.  B.  B.  Estcourt  are  replete  with  truly  life- 
like pictures  of  Eastern  manners  and  travel ;  while,  to 
those  who  knew  him  personally,  they  will  recall 
vividly  the  single-hearted  and  straightforward  cha- 
racter which  drew  enjoyment  and  encouragement  for 
himself  and  others  from  every  incident. 

Captain  Charlewood's  Journal  abounds  alike  in 
graphic  descriptions  of  the  arduous  duties  undertaken 
by  him,  and  evinces  the  cheerful  and  devoted  spirit, 
ever  fertile  in  expedients,  in  which  they  were  carried 
out :  while  the  Reports  of  the  other  Officers,  although 
necessarily  more  brief  than  those  to  which  I  have 
specially  alluded,  will  give  the  reader  a  clearer  idea 
than  I  have  succeeded  in  doing  in  my  Narrative  of  tlie 
difficulties  overcome  by  each  in  his  separate  department 
of  the  Service. 

In  Dr.  Heifer's  hitherto  unpubhshed  'Visit  to  the 
Arabian  Desert,'  and  in  Mr.  Ainsworth's  *  Journey  to 
Constantinople,'  the  antiquarian  will,  I  trust,  find  mucli 
to  interest  him,  and  to  encourage  further  research  in 
these  inexhaustible  regions  of  ancient  civilization  and 
greatness. 


FBEFACE.  XI 

To  the  Appendix  I  have  added,  as  No.  XII.,  short 
Biographical  Notices  of  the  Officers  and  others  by 
whom  I  was,  without  exception,  most  ably  seconded 
and  supported  throughout  the  Expedition. 

I  offi^r  these  Notices  as  a  tribute  of  my  gratitude 
and  regard  to  the  survivors  of  ovu*  little  band,  and  as 
a  memorial  of  my  lasting  affection  for  those  who  are 
no  more ;  earnestly  hoping  that  these  records  of  their 
devotion  to  the  Service  in  whicli  they  were  engaged, 
may  be  the  means  of  inducing  others  to  do  likewise. 

F.  K.  Chbsney,  General  Royal  Artillery. 

Pacxolet,  Balltasdle,  CO.  Down  ; 
Septetnber  7, 1868. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAQI 
IlfTBODVCTOBT  :   TH£  NILE  BOATS  AND  SABLT  NAYIOATIOK     .  .  1 


CHAPTER  n. 

0T7TLI1IE   or  A   JOUSNBY    THBOUOH   FALB6TINS    AND    STBIA,  WITH 

B^FERBNCE  TO  AN  OVERLAND  BOUTE  TO  INDIA         ...        13 


CHAPTER  m. 

OUTLINE  OF  A  JOURNEY,  THROUGH  THE   HAOURAN   AND  DECAF0U8; 

ON  THE  WAY  TO  THE  RITSR  EUPHRATES  ....        21 


CHAPTER  IV. 

JOURNEY  THROUGH  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT  FROM  DAMASCUS  TO 
EL-KAIM,  AND  PREPARATION  OF  THE  RAFT  TO  DESCEND  THE 
RIVER  EUPHRATES  FROM  ANNA 60 


CHAPTER  V. 

DESCENT  OF   THE  RIVER  EUPHRATES  ON  A  BAFT  AND  BY  BOAT,  AND 

CROSSING  THE  PERSIAN  GULF  TO   BUSHIRE       ....        69 


CHAPTER  VT. 

ASCENT  AND  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIVER  KABON — JOURNEY  THBOUGH 
PEBSIA  AND  ASIA  MINOB — EXAMINATION  OF  THE  COUNTBIES 
BOBDERING   ON   THE   UPPEB  fUPHBATES 05 


XIV  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  Vn. 

PAUE 

SEZBBUM   TO  TREBIZOVDE^    AND    FROH    THENCE  TO  THE  MEDITER- 
RANEAN COAST  THBOVOH  ASIA   MINOR 121 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

PBOOBBSS  OF  THE  STEAM  QUESTION — ^INTERVIEW  WITH  HIS  MAJESTY 
KINO  WILLIAM  IV.^  REGARDING  THE  T^'O  rROPOSITIONS  OF 
COMMUNICATION  WITH  INDIA — A  COMMITTEE  OF  THE  HOUSE 
OF  COMMONS  EXAMINES  THE  QUESTION,  AND  TOTES  £20,000 
FOR  AN  EXPERIMENT  BT  THE  EUPHRATES         ....      142 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ENTRUSTED  WITH  THE  COMMAND  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION 
— ^AOAIN  COMMANDED  TO  ATTEND  THE  KINO — DIFFICULTIES 
OF  THE  EXPEDITION — PREPARATIONS  AT  LITERPOOL — THE 
'  GEORGE  CANNING  '  CHARTERED — ^MR.  FITZJAMES  INTREPIDLY 
SATES  A  DROWNING  TIDEWAITER  —  TOYAGE  TO  MALTA — 
TOTAGE  TO  THE  COAST  OF  SYRIA — OPPOSITION  OF  THE  PACHA 
OF  EGYPT— LANDING  OF  THE  EXPEDITION        ....     150 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  EXPEDITION  LANDS  AT  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE  ORONTES— PREPA- 
RATIONS FOB  CROSSING  NORTHERN  SYRIA  TO  THE  EUPHRATES     171 


CHAPTER  XI. 

TRANSPORT  OF  THE  MATERIALS  TO  PORT  WILLIAM,  AND  PREPARA- 
TIONS TO  SET  UP  AND  FLOAT  THE  STEAMERS  AT  THAT  PLACE, 
WITH  THE  DIFFICULTIES  AND  OPPOSITION  OFFERED  BY  THE 
MUTSELLIM 102 


CHAFER  XII. 

SEARCH   FOR  COAL   AND  NATITE   STEEL  IN    THE    MOUNTAINS    NEAR 

MARASH — ASCENT  OF  THE  STEAMER  TO   THE  TOWN   OF  BIB      .      212 


CILVl>TER  Xm. 

DESCENT    AND    SURVEY    OF    THE    RIVER    EUPHRATES    FROM    POUT 

WILLIAM    TO   ZELEBl 2l'4 


CONTBNTS.  XV 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

PAUB 
DESCENT    CONTDfCTED    FROM    ZELEBI    TO    IS-GERIA — LOSS    OF     THE 

'TIGRIS'   STEAMER— PB0SECUTI017  OP  THE  DESCENT  .  .      249 


CHAPTER  XV. 

DESCENT  AND  SURTET  CONTXNTTED,  FROM  ANNA  TO  BASRAH   .  .      277 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

CROSSINO    THE    PERSIAN    GULF   TO    BUSHIRE — REFITMENT    OF   THE 

STEAMER^  AND  RETURN  TO   THE  LOWER  EUPHRATES  «  .      205 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

ASCENT  OF  THE  RITER  TIGRIS  TO    BAGDAD,  AND  DESCENT  TO  MEET 

THE  INDIAN   MAIL  AT  KURNAH 305 

CHAPTER  XVni. 

ASCENT  OF  THE  RIVER  EUPHRATES    TO    THE    LAMLUM    MARSHES — 
DESCENT  TO  BASRAH — THE  COMMANDER  PROCEEDS  TO  INDIA  TO 
MAXB  ARRANGEMENTS  TO  CONTINUE  THE  EXPEDITION,  LEAVING 
MAJOR  ESTCOURT  IN  COMMAND 814 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

BEACH    BOMBAY — REFERENCE    TO    THE    QOVERNORr-OENERAL — DAK 

JOURNEY  TO  THE  INTERIOR  OF  INDIA — RETURN  TO  BOMBAY.      327 

CHAPTER  XX. 

JOURNEY    ACROSS    THE    ARABIAN    DESERT— RETURN    TO    ENGLAND, 

AND  TERMINATION  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION        .  .     335 


XVI  CONTESTS. 


APPENDIX. 


PAUX 


I.   LETTER  FROM  CAPTAIW   CHESWET   TO   SIR  ROBERT  GORDON,  Oil 

THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE  VI A   EGYPT 3G4 

II.   GENERAL  ACCOUNTS   OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION — CASU- 
ALTIES   OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION  .  ,  .      374 

III.  JOURNEY  FROH  THE  BAY  OP  THE  ORONTBS  TO  DAMASCUS  (1835), 

BY   THE  LATE  MAJOR-GENERAL  J.  B.  B.  ESTCOURT      .  .      381 

IV.  JOURNEY    FROM    SUEDIA    TO     RESCHID    PACHA's    CAMP    NEAR 

DIYARBEKR  (1835),  BY  THE  LATE  MAJOR-GENERAL  J.  B.  B. 
ESTCOURT 407 

V.   REPORT  OF  A  TOUR  FROM  BIR  TO  EL-DEIR  (1830),  BY  CAPTAIN 

HENRY  BLOSSE  LYNCH,  C.B.,  K.L.8 432 

VI.   EXTRACTS  FROM  A  REROBT  OF  AN  EXCURSION  IN  THE  ARABIAN 

DESERT  (1836),  BY  THE  LATE  JOHN  WILLIAM  HELPER,  M.D.      439 

VII.   REPORT  OF  THE  CIRCUMSTANCES  RELATING  TO  THE  TRANSPORT 

(1836),  BY  THE  LATE  MAJOR-GENERAL   J.  B.  B.  ESTCOXTRT     440 

VIII.  REPORT  OP  THE  CIRCUMSTANCES  RELATING  TO  THE  TRANSPORT 
(1835-36),  BY  THE  LATE  COMMANDER  B.  F.  CLEAVE- 
LAND,  R.N 452 

IX.   SUMMARY  OF  JOURNAL  (1835)  BY  ACTING  LIEUTENANT   (NOW 

captain)   E.  p.  CHARLEWOOD,  R.N 4U6 

X.   REPORT    BY    THE    LATE   MR.    (AFTERWARDS    CAPTAIN)    JAMES 

FITZJAMES,  R.N.    (1836) 481 

XI.   REPORT  OF  A  JOURNEY  FROM  BAGDAD  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE  VIA 

KURDISTAN   (1837),  BY  WILLIAM  AIN8W0RTH  .  .  .      402 

XII.    BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS  OF  THE  OFFICERS  OF  THE  EUPHRATES 

EXPEDITION 642 


INDEX 560—504 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PLATES. 


TJLXXI. 

LVUI. 

LV. 

LVI. 

Lvn. 

LII. 


LIX. 

LXVU. 

LXVI. 

Lxvm. 

LL 
ULXI. 

LXXTX 

Lxxn. 

LXXV. 

LXXIV, 

Lxxvn. 

LXXTin. 

LXXIX. 

LXXX. 

LXX. 

LXIX. 

LXXXII. 

LXXXVIII. 

Lxxxn*. 

LXXXVII. 


VIEW   OP  PORT  WILUAM  A5D 1  »i„  ^.     • 
THE  Toyrs  OP  BIR   .         .J                                              ^ 

COSIRE,   0^   THE  COAST  OP  EGYPT       .           .  Tofactpafff       6 

WERA8H „  „  44 

BlTOtAC     OP     A     CARAVAN     OUTSIDE     THE 

VILLAGE  OP  BOWAR  SHOGAlf  ...  ,,  „  50 

ANAH „  „  CO 

CAPTAUr    Cn£SNET*S   RAPT,    ITU    1830,    DE- 

SCEXDIITG      THE     EUFB  RATES     TOWARDS 

HADISAH „  „  70 

HIT „  „  77 

CITY  OF  SHTSTER „  „  97 

ISXAILE,   OV  THE  EITER  KAR€N         .           .  yy  »  101 
THE    £2?TRAirCE   TO    8HIRAZ  AND   TOMB    OP 

SADI „  „  105 

RrX  KALAH 9f  u  1^7 

THE    BOILER    PASSING    THE    BAR    OP    THE 

0R0NTB8 „  „  170 

IBRAHDf  PACHA yi  ,9  179 

DITARBEKR yy  ,y  1^ 

XOORAD  PACHA yy  yy  193 

THE  PIR8T  BOILER  PORDING  THE  KARA-CHAI  „  „  197 

SOURCE  OP  THE  RIVER   BELIE     ...  yy  yy  ^01 
ARAB  ATTACK  ON  LIEUTENANT   LYNCH  AND 

PARTY  NEAR  DEIR           ....  jy  yy  205. 

AZAZ M  „  -00 

CHENDEREEZ yy  yy  200 

THE  LAST  BOILER  ENTERING  FORT  WILLIAM  „  „  209 

ISKENDERUN  AND  THE  BBILAN  MOUNTAINS  „  „  212 

KALAT-EN-NIJM j^  w  -'^ 

TUB  ARABS  ATTACKING  SHEIKH  HUSSAN    .  „  „  232 

BELES j>  V  230 

kal'at  ja'ber 7;  n  242 


# 


XVlll 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTILVTIONS. 


l'L.\TK 

LXXXV.  THE  8TE.\MK11S   PASSING   TIIAPSACIS   . 

LXXXVI.  RUINS   OF   TUE    CITY    OF    RAKKAU 

LXXXIX.     DBIR 

XC.  LOSS  OF   THE  'TIGRIS*          .           .           .           . 

XCI.  EL-KIIUDHR  VILLAGE  AND  ARAB  WAR-DANCE 

LXIII.  SHEIKH-EL-SnUYUKII           .           .           .           . 

LXIV.     XURNAH 

XCII.     SALUTE   AT  BASRAH 

LXI.  THE   TOWN   OF   KCT   ON   THE   EUPHRATES    . 

LX.  BAGDAD  AND   BRIDGE           .... 

XCVI.     AHWAZ 

XCVII.  A   THREATENED   ATTACK  IN   THE   DESERT    . 

LXV.     BASRAH   CREEK 

LIII.     BEYROUT 

LIV.  BAALBEC   FROM   TUE   QUARRY       . 

LXXIII.     ZOZU 

XCIII.  CUESNEYA   EUPHRATENSIS . 
XCIV.  TETARIS — A.    PARVIFLORA.      B.   CAPITA TA     . 
XCV.  TETRADICLI8  CA8PIA.      CRYPTADIA  EUPHRA- 
TENSIS   


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WOODCUTS. 

TAGS 

RUINED  CONVENT  OF  ST.  SIMON   STYLITES 170 

TOMB   AT  SELEUCIA 170 

TUNNEL  AT  SELEUCIA 171 

THE  'TIGRIS*   STEAMER 185 

MIDSHIP  SECTION  OF  '  EUPHRATES  '   STEAMER           ....  188 

SECTION  OF  '  TIGRIS  *  STEAMER 188 

THE  LAUNCH  ON  WHEELS l89 

JI8R  1L\DID 190 

BOILER  ASCENDING   THE  *  HILL  OF   DIFFICULTY  *     .           .           .           .  195 

BOILER  ALMOST  UPSET 196 

BOILER  ON   ITS  WAGGON IM 

NAUVS  BOAT  WITH  THE  BOILER  OK  THE  LAKE  OF  ANTIOCH  .  .198 

'EUPHRATES*   BEING  LAUNCHED 203 

'EUPHRATES*   STEAMER 207 

DIVING-BELL 209 

FLYING  BRIDGE 235 

M  APS. 

INDEX  MAP ^        .     In  a  pocket 

POSITION      OF     'TIGRIS'     AND     'EUJ'HRAJES'     STEAM- 

YEsaELS  ON  MAY  21,  1830 To  face  pat/c  26o 


NARRATIVE 


OP  THE 


EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION 


CHAPTER  L 

INTEODUCTOBY: 
THE  NILE  BOATS  AND   EABLY   NAVIGATION. 

In  the  year  1852  I  published,  in  two  volumes,  an  chap. 
account  of  some  of  the  results  of  the  Euphrates  Expe-  ' — '- — ' 
dition,  including  an  historical  and  geographical  survey  i.  and'n. 
of  the  regions  traversed  by  the  Euphrates.  It  was  my 
intention  that  the  work  should  have  included  a  full 
narrative  of  my  first  exploration  of  the  rival  routes 
through  Egypt  and  Syria,  as  well  as  a  detailed  account 
of  the  operations  of  the  subsequent  survey ;  and  in  the 
prospectus  of  the  proposed  work,  which  was  published 
by  Messrs.  Longmans  in  1852,  this  intention  was 
sketched  out  and  given  to  the  public  ;  but  it  appearing, 
to  the  Department  •  under  whose  auspices  the  publica- 
tion was  conducted,  that  the  completion  of  my  design 
would  be  attended  with  what  then  seemed  to  be  an 
undue  expense,  I  consented,  at  their  instance,  to  limit 
the  work  to  the  incomplete  form  in  which  it  then 
appeared. 

•  Her  Majesty's  Treasury.  *»j 

B 


2  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   ETPHRATK  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP.  After  the  lapse  of  sixteen  years,  it  is  now  thouglit  ad- 
' — . — '  visable  by  Her  Majesty's  Government,  having  regard  to 
J^JSSkMi  ^^^  greatly  increased  importance  of  the  Overland  Eoute 
*^l^  question,  that  it  would  be  for  the  public  advantage 
that  the  materials  of  information  remaining  in  my  hands 
should  be  rendered  accessible,  and  I  have  received  their 
commands  to  proceed  with  the  present  work.  Owing 
to  the  march  of  events  in  the  meantime,  much  of  what 
I  had  originally  prepared  for  the  press  has  ceased  to 
possess  sufficient  interest  to  justify  its  production  at 
this  day ;  so  that — partly  from  this  cause,  but  chiefly 
on  account  of  the  change  necessitated  in  the  general 
plan  of  the  work  by  the  above-mentioned  determination 
of  my  superiors — it  is  probable  that  what  I  now  ofler  to 
the  pubUc  may  appear,  in  some  instances,  deficient  in 
continuity  of  treatment.  But  defects  of  this  kind  will 
readily  be  excused,  if  the  work  be  found  useful  in 
carrying  out  that  continuity  of  purpose^  which  for 
nearly  forty  years  has  actuated  me,  in  seeking  for, 
and  endeavoiuring  to  make  known,  the  preferable 
Overland  Eoute  to  India- 
^6  SoM  Qf  ^jjg  events  above  referred  to,  the  principal  one 
^^*^'  is,  undoubtedly,  the  great  undertaking  of  the  Suez 
Ship  Canal  of  M.  de  Lesseps.  A  commercial  nation 
ought  not  to  repine  at  the  opening  of  any  new  high- 
way of  commerce ;  but  a  nation  administering  a 
distant  empire,  cannot  afford  to  trust  her  communica- 
tions to  the  chances  of  commercial  equality,  which 
may  at  any  time  be  disturbed  by  national  or  dynastic 
rivalries :  and  while  the  Suez  Ship  Canal  deprives 
the  Egyptian  and  Red  Sea  Survey  of  much  of  its 
interest,  it  must  be  regarded  as  having  added  greatly 


SERVICES   OP  THE  OFPICEBS. 


to   the   importance    of   such    information  as   can   be    chap. 
adduced  in  respect  to  the  rival  Hne  through  Syria.  - — A— 


The  proposed  railway  from  Suedia,  at  the  mouth  luiiway 
of  the  Orontes,  to  Antioch,  affords  another  and  a  edu. 
very  cedent  reason  for  turning  with  renewed  interest 
to  the  Euphrates  Boute ;  and  even  the  increasing 
apprehensions  of  disaster  to  the  Turkish  Empire — 
although  I  trust  illusory,  or  at  least  very  remote — 
furnish  further  grounds  for  a  just  and  natural  desire 
to  secure  a  firm  footing  in  those  regions  ;  and  to  that 
end  to  make  ourselves  folly  acquainted  with  all 
that  we  have  done  there,  and  with  all  that  has  been 
learnt  of  the  land  and  people. 

Besides,  it  seems  due  to  the  gallant  and  meritorious  inundod 
public  servants  who  took  part  in  the  Survey,  and  UMoAcm 
are  now  no  more,  that  some  record  of  their  services 
should  be  preserved,  both  as  a  tribute  to  their  worth, 
and  as  a  usefol  instruction  to  those  who  hereafter  may 
have  similar  undertakings  confided  to  them.  I,  and 
a  few  others,  are  now  the  only  survivors  of  a  consider- 
able force  engaged  in  an  enterprise  requiring  much 
preparatory  organisation,  and  continuous  labour  in 
execution.  I  wish  to  commemorate  them  as  their 
merits  deserve,  and  yet,  in  doing  so,  not  to  have  to 
say,  'fungar  inani  munere.'  It  seems  also  desirable 
that  my  own  preliminary  e2camination  of  the  River 
Euphrates  should  not  be  withheld  from  those  who 
may  be  interested  in  knowing  what  a  single  man  may 
be  able  to  accomplish  in  the  way  of  field  and  water 
surveying  and  exploration.  I  shall  therefore  narrate, 
as  briefly  as  may  be,  the  steps  which  led  me  in  the 
track  of  what  will  probably,  hereafter,  be  our  great 

B   2 


NAKRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    highway  to  the  East ;  and  shall  then  give  the  details, 
— r — '  first,  of  my  own  operations  as  an  individual  surveyor, 


and,  afterwards,   of  the  operations  of  the  Euphrates 
Surveying  Expedition,  under  my  command. 
Mr.  Pea-         Being  in  Egypt,  whither  I  had  gone  on  a  political 

A^w*  It  ii  —^ 

queries       missioH  fi^om  Sir  Eobert  Gordon,  the  British  Ambassa- 
KiverEu-   ^OT  at  Constantinople,  in  1829,  I  had  placed  in  my 
^    **'•      hands,  by  Consul-General  Barker,  a  series  of  queries 
drawn  up   by  the   late  Mr.   Peacock,   the  Principal 
Examiner  of  the  India  House,  as  to  the  relative  ad- 
vantages of  the  Egyptian  and  Syrian  routes  to  India. 
This  document,  for  its  comprehensiveness,  sagacity,  and 
forethought,  deserves  to  be  made  known,  and  I  give  it 
here  in  extenso : — 
Object  and       *  Information  respecting  the  road  from  Scanderoon 
the  Eu-      to  points  in  communication  with  India — i.^.,  from  that 
enquiriei.    place  as  well  as  fi-om  Lattaquia  and  Antioch,  respectively, 
to  Aleppo. 

'  From  Aleppo  to  Bir,  and  to  Beles  on  the  Euphrates. 

'  The  number  of  days  required  to  perform  the  journey 

by  each  route,  distinguishing  between  a  journey  to  be 

performed  by  travellers  with  attendants,  and  one  by  an 

express  messenger. 

'  The  comparative  advantages  of  one  or  other  of  these 
routes,  both  as  regards  the  probable  seciu'ity  of  travel- 
ling by  them,  and  the  superior  expedition  to  be  obtained. 
'  Trade  on  the  Euphrates ;  extent  of  it ;  in  vessels  or 
boats ;  their  size  and  draught  of  water. 

*  At  what  point  the  navigation  ceases. 

*  At  what  point  (if  any)  below  Beles  it  would  be 
possible  to  procure  wood  in  sufficient  quantity  for 
steam-navigation. 


ASCEOT  OP  THE   NILE.  5 

*  State  of  the  tribes  on  the  sides  of  the  Euphrates,    ciur. 
particularly  the  right  side.  — li_ 

*To  what  point  might  a  steam-vessel  mount  the 
Euphrates  ? 

*  State  of  the  harbours  of  Lattaquia  and  Scanderoon, 
and  also  of  the  mouth  of  the  Eiver  Orontes. 

*  Boutc  fix>m  Aleppo  by  the  Great  Desert  to  Bussorah, 
and  also  by  the  Little  Desert  to  Bagdad. 

*  Information  as  to  the  number  of  days,  means  of 
obtaining  despatch,  and  general  security  for  tra- 
vellers.' 

Strongly  impressed  with  the  importance  of  these  ques- 
tions, I  ventured  to  propose  to  our  Government,  through 
Sir  Eobert  Gordon,  that  I  should  make  a  personal  ex- 
amination of  the  several  routes,  and  report  the  result. 
Taking  for  granted  that  this  would  be  the  wish  of  the 
Government,  and  that  no  difficulty  about  leave 
would  be  made,  I  at  once  commenced  the  task  I 
had  proposed  to  myself,  by  ascending  the  Nile  to  Eramina- 
Cairo,  and  thence  crossing  to  Suez,  and  from  Suez  RedSea 
descending  the  Red  Sea  to  Kosseir.  From  Kosseir  I 
crossed  the  desert  to  the  Nile  at  Kenneh,  ascended  to 
the  Second  Cataracts,  and  returning,  descended  tlie 
river  to  the  Damietta  mouth.  It  is  hardly  necessary 
to  say,  that  many  things  incidental  to  desert  travelling, 
and  to  sea  and  river  navigation,  occupied  my  attention, 
which  possibly  would  have  been  deemed  matter  of 
curiosity,  if  not  of  value,  thirty-nine  years  ago ;  but 
beyond  the  general  result  of  my  observations — viz., 
that  a  steamer  might  reach  Kosseir  from  Bombay  in 
fourteen  days,  and  that  the  transit  of  the  mails  from 
thence  to  Alexandria  could  be  accomplished  in  four 


NARRATIVE   OF   THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

days  ;  while  by  the  shorter  line,  Suez  would  be  reached 
in  fifteen  days  from  Bombay,  and  the  Mediterranean 
at  Damietta,  or  the  entrance  of  the  Nile,  in  two  days 
more — there  is  little  of  what  I  took  note  of  in  the 
Egyptian  part  of  my  exploration,  that  has  not  now 
become  famiUar  through  the  writings  of  recent  tra- 
vellers, as  well  as  from  actual  observation  by  great 
numbers  of  our  civil  and  military  servants,  in  the 
course  of  their  journeys  to  and  from  India. 

Some  few  observations,  however,  may  be  worth 
making  in  relation  to  the  Nile  itself,  w^hich  plays  an 
annual  part  in  the  affairs  of  mankind  too  important  to 
Early  ciri-  allow  it  cvcr  to  be  a  worn-out  subject.  It  seems  difficult 
Egypt.  to  conceive  that  such  a  civilisation  as  formerly  existed 
along  its  banks  up  to  the  frontiers  of  Abyssinia,  should 
have  been  wanting  in  the  necessary  enterprise  to  trace 
the  river  at  least  to  the  lakes  constituting  its  head- waters. 
The  geographer  Ptolemy  indicates  the  fact  that  two 
great  lakes  were  known  to  be  in  existence,  at  the  upper 
sources  of  the  Nile,  in  his  day.  Mediaeval  geographers 
brmg  down  these  two  lakes  in  the  maps  of  Artelius 
and  Cleaver,  and  show  them  at  some  distance  beyond 
the  Equator,  gathering  the  snow-waters  of  the  Moun- 
tains of  the  Moon.  The  remark  of  a  sagacious  observer, 
that  the  gradual  rise  and  fall  of  the  Nile  could  only  be 
accounted  for  by  a  great  expanse  of  head-waters,  was, 
at  the  time  I  write  of,  fully  before  my  view  ;  though  I 
did  not  foresee  that,  before  I  should  come  to  put  the 
result  of  my  own  observations  on  paper,  his  inference 
would  be  verified  by  the  discovery  of  the  eastern  lake 
by  Speke,  and  of  the  western  lake  by  Baker.  After 
all,  it  is  not  a  little  remarkable  that,  save  as  regards 


ROMAN  BXPLOEATIONB  OF  BTHIOPU. 


the  survey  of  the  farther  shores  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza,    chap. 
the  discoveries  of  these  two  able  travellers  have  done  ^ — ^ — 


little  more  than  restore  ns  to  pretty  nearly  the  same 
measure  of  knowledge  as  was  enjoyed  by  the  Eoman 
world  of  the  time  of  Nero.  That  Emperor  sent  two  soucm  of 
centurions  into  Ethiopia,  with  orders  to  explore  the 
unknown  fountains  of  the  river.  They  reported  that, 
after  having  gone  a  long  way,  they  came  to  a  king  of 
Ethiopia,  who  furnished  them  with  necessaries  and 
recommendations  to  some  other  kingdoms  adjacent; 
passing  which  they  came  to  immense  lakes,  of  which 
nobody  knew  the  end.  But  I  must  except  the 
conclusion  of  their  report,  for  they  added,  with  regard 
to  the  end  of  these  lakes,  that  nobody  could  ever  hope 
to  find  it;  and  now — possibly  before  what  I  write 
shall  have  come  before  the  eye  of  a  reader — some  other  Future 
adventurous  traveller  will  have  ftdly  surveyed  the  ^^J^' 
farther  shores  of  the  Albert  Nyanza,  and  will  have  ^•"•^ 
determined  whether  or  not  there  was  any  foundation 
of  truth  in  what  the  Sacristan  of  the  Treasury  of 
Minerva  at  Lais  told  Herodotus,*  that  one  part  of 
their  head- waters  flows  north  through  I^jrpt,  and  the 
other  half  south,  through  another  channel ;  an  idea 
very  perseveringly  insisted  on  by  the  mediaeval  geo- 
graphers, who  derive  not  only  the  western  branch  of 
the  Nile,  but  also  the  waters  flowing  into  the  Gulf  of 
Congo,  from  the  opposite  extremities  of  their  Lake 
Zamhe — being  unquestionably  the  same  inland  sea  re- 
introduced to  our  notice  under  the  name  of  the  Albert 
Nyanza.  However  these  speculations  may  turn  out, 
no  one,  even  at  the  period  of  which  I  write,  could 

♦  Euterpe,  xi.  28. 


8  NABRATIVE   OP  TUB  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    travel  on  the  Nile  without  feeling  himself  on  one  of 
* — ^ — '  the  highways  of  knowledge,  as  well  as  of  commerce ; 


and  a  question  arose  in  "my  mind,  on  observing  the 
various   modes  of  navigation  in   use   on  its   waters, 

Niie-boata.  whether  the  Nile-boat,  with  its  fore  and  aft  lateen-sail, 
and  its  capability  of  going  on  a  wind,  be  not  a  much 
older  form  of  saihng-vessel  than  we  have  been  in  the 
habit  of  supposing  :  for  the  prevalent  belief  is  that  the 
vessels  which  sail  on  a  wind  are  of  post-Eoman  in- 
vention— and,  indeed,  there  seems  no  doubt  that  the 
Eoman  galley  was  calculated  only  to  sail  before  the 
wind,  and  had  to  make  head  against  it  by  force  of 
rowing. 

Now  everything  in  Egypt  preserves  the  ancient  type. 
Such  a  thing  as  a  square-rigged  craft  is  not  to  be  seen 
on  the  Nile.  We  know  that  the  Celtic  Gauls  of  Julius 
CflBsar's  time  possessed  boats  with  leathern  sails  capable 
of  going  on  a  wind.  The  least  civilised  tribes  of  the 
Eastern  seas  use  the  lateen  rig,  more  or  less  modified. 
I  confess  that  I  could  not  look  on  the  almost  universal 
use  of  tliis  sail  on  the  Nile — for  you  see  it  even  on  the 
rafts  and  flat-bottomed  barges,  in  which  hay  is  carried 
fi'om  point  to  point — ^without  the  conviction  that  navi- 

Eariy  river  gatiou  had  attained  here  to  as  early  an  excellence  as 

naviga-         ^ 

tion.  the  other  arts.     The  Imes,  too,  of  the  Nile-boat  doubt- 

less preserve  the  form  fixed  on  thousands  of  years 
ago,  as  that  best  fitted  for  passing  through  the  water, 
and  at  the  same  time  yielding  least  to  leeway ;  and 
it  is  remarkable  that  the  principal  breadth  of  beam  is 
carried  abaft  of  the  centre,  giving  to  the  deck  much 
the  character  of  that  of  the  celebrated  yacht  *  America.' 
Side  by  side  with   these  vessels  we  see  the  most 


RAFTS  AND   NILE-BOATS.  ! 

primitive  forms  of  floats  and  rafts — such  as  two  bimdles     chap. 
of  bulrushes  lashed  together,  and  guided  by  a  single        ]'  - 
individual  from  place  to  place,  who  uses  his  feet  as  ^*^f\c 
paddles.    A  better  kind,  again,  is  formed  by  lashing 
together  two  or  more  logs  of  wood,  which  can  then  be 
paddled  across,  or  down  the  stream.  Others,  which  are 
merely  temporary  rafts,  but  answer  the  piupose  re- 
quired very  efficiently,  are  constructed  of  huge  earthen 
water-pots,*  or  sometimes  of  a  great  number  of  earthen 
drinking-cups,  attached  together  by  reeds.   These,  when 
conveyed  to  their  destination,  are  broken  up  and  sold, 
and  are  universally  used  throughout  Egypt  as  drinking- 
cups  ;  and  being  porous,  the  water  which  filters  into 
them  is  deliciously  cool  and  refreshing. 

And  now,  side  by  side  with  these  primitive  floats, 
the  European  steamboat  is  joined  to  the  other  ex- 
amples, so  that  navigation  may  here  be  seen  in  every 
stage  of  its  progress.  Let  me  recommend  the  Nile- 
boat  to  the  traveller,  as  a  far  more  quiet  and  convenient 
dwelling  than  a  steamer.  There  are  several  sorts — 
two  of  which,  even  at  the  present  day,  may  be  de- 
scribed with  advantage.  These  are  the  ddhdbieh  and 
the  canjiah.  A  first-class  ddhdbieh  is  from  160  to  Boats  on 
180  feet  long — ^with  two  masts  and  two  immense  sails 
of  striped  cotton,  each  of  which  revolves  on  a  pivot  at 
the  head  of  the  mast.  These  boats  have  two,  and 
sometimes  three,  roomy  cabins,  furnished  with  sofas, 
tables,   bookshelves,  &c. ;    also   some   two    or  three 

*  FloruB,  in  his  account  of  the  Servile  War^  relates  that  the  insur- 
gents under  Spartacus,  after  being  driyen  into  the  extremity  of  Gala- 
bria,  by  Liciuius  Crassus,  and  having  no  shipping,  endeavoured  to  cross 
the  Straits  of  Messina  on  rafts  composed  of  jars  lashed  together  by 
wicker-work,  '  dolia  connexa  virgultis.' — JEpUame,  voL  iL  cap.  20. 


10  NARRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  comfortable  sleeping  apartments,  provided  with  jalou- 
^ — r — '  sie  shutters.  The  poop-deck  is  the  traveller's  great 
resort  after  sunset ;  the  skyhght  makes  a  table,  and 
there  is  always  a  sofa  on  each  side  of  it.  The  crew 
consists  of  the  rais,  steersman,  and  twelve  or  fourteen 
sailors,  who  cook  and  hve  towards  the  bow  of  the 
boat,  leaving  ample  accommodation  for  the  travellers 
and  their  servants. 

The  canjiah  is  a  good  deal  smaller  than  the  ddhd- 
bieh.  They  vary  from  40  to  90  feet  in  length ;  that  in 
which  I  navigated  the  Nile  was  70  feet  long.  Their  build 
is  a  sharp  raking  bow,  rather  a  flat  bottom,  a  full 
stem,  with  a  double  cabin,  and  three  small  sleeping 
cabins  beneath  a  poop-deck,  which  occupies  quite  one- 
half  of  the  boat.  A  low  mast  with  a  sprit-sail  at  the 
very  extremity  of  the  stem,  with  a  much  higher  one 
towards  the  bow,  with  a  huge  lateen-sail  of  blue-and- 
white  striped  cotton,  worked  on  a  pivot  at  the  head  of 
the  mast,  and  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  boat, 
form  the  universal  rig.  This  rig  is  so  exactly  repre- 
sented on  the  Pyramids  and  ancient  sculptures,  that 
it  is  clear  the  present  boats  differ  but  httle  from 
those  anciently  in  use  on  the  river.  Nothing  can 
exceed  the  luxury  of  floating  down  the  Nile  in  one  of 
these  boats,  carried  by  the  current  from  temple  to 
temple,  the  surface  of  the  stream  scarcely  rippled  by 
its  progress,  and  enjoying  the  silvery  hght  and  soft 
balmy  atmosphere  which  succeed  to  the  heat  of  an 
Egyptian  day. 

Besides  examining  the  Damietta  mouth  it  was  part 
of  my  duty  to  survey  the  Isthmus  of  Suez,  and  the 
outlets  through  Lake  Menzalah,  with  a  view  to  report- 


LEVEL  OF  THE  RED  SEA.  11 

ing  on  the  practicability  of  carrying  out  the  great    chap. 
project  of  a  ship-canal,  the  first  suggestion  of  which  in  ^ — ^ — ' 
modem  times  we  owe  to  the  savants  of  the  French 
Bepublic,  whose  countryman  (Lesseps)  now  bids  fidr 
to  reap  the  glory  of  the  accomplishment. 

Owing,  however,  to  some  serious  errors  in  taking 
the  line  of  levels  in  1802,  the  French  engineers  had 
made  the  Bed  Sea  36  feet  higher  than  the  Mediterra- 
nean ;  and  at  the  time  of  my  observations,  the  belief 
prevailed  that  if  the  isthmus  were  to  be  pierced  by  an 
opening  from  sea  to  sea,  several  towns  along  the  shore  . 
would  inevitably  be  submerged.  This  error  I  was 
enabled  to  avoid,  and  in  the  report  which  I  addressed 
on  the  subject  to  the  British  Minister  at  Constanti- 
nople,* I  ventiu'ed  to  express  my  belief  that  a  sea- 
canal  could  be  opened,  so  as  to  give  a  passage  for 
steamers  and  other  vessels,  without  even  so  much  disad- 
vantage as  is  experienced  in  the  case  of  the  Bosphorus. 

The  practical  question,  however,  appeared  then,  as  QuesUon 
now,  to  be  one  of  expenditure;  and  considering  the  sucz* 
enormous  cost,  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  certainty  of  ^*^^' 
a  speedy  overland   communication  being  established 
across  the  narrow  desert  between  Cairo  and  the  Bed 
Sea  on  the  other,  the  possibility  of  constructing  a  ship- 
canal  to  Suez  did  not  long  continue  to  occupy  my 
thoughts.     They  were  now  turned  towards  the  alter- 
native route  through  Syria  and  Mesopotamia,  the  ex- 
ploration of  which  had  next  to  be  entered  on. 

*  Letter  from  Jaffa,  September  '2, 1830,  Appendix  No.  1. 


12  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  n. 

OUTLINE    OP  A  JOURNEY    THROUGH    PALESTINE  AND   STRIA,   WITH 
REFERENCE   TO   AN   OVERLAND   ROUTE   TO   INDIA. 

CHAP,    I  QUITTED  the  scene  of  my  recent  enquiries  with  the 

JLm.9 


'  most  agreeable  and  enduring  recollections.  Other 
countries  may  and  do  interest  the  traveller  deeply; 
but  to  the  historian,  the  architect,  or  the  archaeologist, 
Egypt  presents  imrivalled  attractions;  nor  are  these 
lessened  by  the  fact  that  the  traveller  enjoys  there 
every  kind  of  comfort,  coupled  with  a  degree  of 
serenity,  nowhere  else  to  be  experienced  out  of  Bri- 
tish  territory,  in  the  East. 

Very  different  conditions  awaited  me  in  the  countries 
through  which  I  was  now  to  carry  on  my  mission 
of  exploring  the  route  by  the  Euphrates. 
From  Arrived  at  Jaffa,  I  devoted  a  short  time  to  reporting 

jj^.  ^  the  results  of  the  Egyptian  investigation,  which  are 
explained  in  the  letter  to  Sir  Eobert  Gordon,  above 
referred  to ;  and  then  proceeded  on  a  preliminary 
journey,  with  a  view  to  becoming  acquainted  with  the 
general  aspect  and  condition  of  the  district  lying 
between  the  Euphrates  and  the  Syrian  coast  of  the 
Mediterranean. 

The  queries  under  which  I  was  acting,*  pointed  out 

♦  Chap.  I.  pp.  4,  6. 


PROPOSED  EXAMINATION  OP  THE   EUPHRATES.  13 

TO  principal  lines  of  communication  between  the  chap. 
rrian  coast  and  the  Euphrates — viz.,  from  Jafla  to  * — ^ — ' 
amascus,  and  on  to  Palmyra  and  Anna,  and  from  the 
ay  of  Antioch  and  Aleppo  to  Beles ;  and  the  compara- 
^e  shortness  of  the  route  from  Scanderoon  to  the  Eiver 
uphrates  (which  in  that  latitude  approaches  to  within 
20  miles  of  theMediterranean)  indicated  this  third  point 
1  the  one  offering  the  greatest  fecility  for  the  transport 
■  boats,  as  well  as  the  means  of  examining  the  river 

its  greatest  extent.     My  design  was,  after  making  Propowd 
careful  examination  of  the  old  tracks  of  caravans  by  tiondTNor. 
leppo  and  Damascus,  to  proceed  to  Scanderoon,  and  syru. 
lence  to  carry  a  couple  of  boats  across  to  Bir  ;  for,  at 
•st,  I  did  not  entertain  the  idea  of  crossing  that  part 
•  the  Desert  of  Arabia  which  I  should  have  traversed 
I  had  proceeded  to  the  Euphrates  by  way  of  Palmyra, 
id  I  only  contemplated  at  that  time  a  passing  ex- 
oration  of  the  r^ions  to  the  east  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  harbour  of  Jaffa,  the  Mediterranean  terminus  of  v«'t  to 

Jafia  and 

le  ancient  lines  of  commerce,  was  first  examined,  so  the  Holy 
r  as  to  justify  the  subsequent  proceedings  taken,  by 
irection  of  the  Government,  for  its  survey. 
Thence  I  visited  Jerusalem,*  the  Dead  Sea,  Hebron, 
le  Jordan,  and,  as  I  proceeded  northward.  Mounts 
abor  and  Carmel,  the  fortress  of  Acre,  the  towns  of 
azareth,  Tiberias,  Sidon,  the  remains  of  Tyre,  and  so 
1  to  Beirut  Thence,  taking  a  fresh  departure,  I 
issed,  soon  after  leaving  the  town,  the  place  tradition- 

*  I  had  originaUy  intended  giving  to  the  puhlic  my  examination  and 
tempts  at  yerification  of  the  different  sites  of  interest,  hoth  in  Jerusa- 
n,  and  to  the  eastward  and  westward  of  the  Holy  City;  hut  this  will 
w  be  done,  in  a  mnch  fuller  and  more  satisfactory  manner,  by  the  offi- 
rs  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  engaged  in  scientific  researches  in  Palestine. 


IC  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        My   suspicions   were   fully  aroused   as  we   wound 
' — • — '  through  the  valley,  the  picturesque  beauty  of  which 
would  have  been  more  appreciated  under  other  circum- 
stances ;  at  that  moment,  the  fear  that  my  life  was  in 
of"find^°     danger  was  uppermost  in  my  mind.     As  we  proceeded, 
f^^^         the  Arabs  called  upon  me,  two  or  three  times,  to  show 
them  where  gold  could  be  found,   and   showed,  by 
unmistakable  gestures,  what  would  be  the  consequence 
of  my  continued  refusal  to  enable  them  to  discover  the 
supposed  hidden  treasure. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  recall  my  alternations  of  feeling 
during  the  following  part  of  this  (to  me)  eventful  day; 
but  I  distinctly  remember  that  the  hope  of  extricating 
myself  in  some  way  from  my  unpleasant  positiw 
rose  above  my  naturally  painful  apprehensions,  and 
one  means  of  escape  presented  itself  to  me  in  a 
small  double-barrelled  pistol  which  had  remained 
unnoticed  beneath  my  loose  jacket.  It  would  not 
have  been  very  difficult,  at  one  of  the  sharp  windings 
of  the  valley,  to  get  rid  of  those  who  had  planned 
and  (as  I  afterwards  ascertained)  had  actually  deter- 
Tempta-  mined  to  take  my  life.  But  I  could  not  bring  myself 
nhoot  my  to  dccidc  OH  shootiug  my  captors  unawares ;  and  thus 
enemies.  ^^  proceeded  until,  towards  the  termination  of  the 
valley,  they  took  me  aside  into  a  small  mountain-basin, 
in  which  they  could  neither  see  nor  be  seen,  excepting 
by  some  one  near  the  crest  of  the  overhanging  moun- 
tain. Here  the  two  Mitaulis  placed  themselves  at  a 
short  distance  on  each  side  of  me,— dismounted, — drew 
their  ramrods,  and  proved  the  charges  of  their  carbines. 
The  thought  crossed  my  mind  that  I  might  yet  escape 
by  ascending  the  steep  hill — which  I  could  do,  on  foot, 


PROVIDENTIAL  DEUVERANCJB.  17 

more  rapidly  than  the  horses — and  the  chances  of    chap. 
their  being  able  to  hit  a  moving  object  were  in  my  >     /  ^* 
favour ;  but  the  wiser  course  seemed  to  be  an  attempt 
to   rouse  their  compassion,  by  placing  my  life   and 
money  at  their  disposal.     For  an  instant  they  seemed 
moved ;  but  the  compassionate  impulse  passed  away, 
and  my  last  hour  seemed  all  but  come,  when  He  *  who 
neither  slumbers  nor  sleeps  *  ordered  it  otherwise.     A  proridon- 
Syrian  peasant  descended  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  {1^  ^^ 
actually  entered  the  basin  where  we  were.     His  ap- 
pearance at  once  changed  everything :  not  only  the 
hostile  action  of  the  two  Mitaulis,  but  even  the  fiendish 
expression  of  their  countenances;  gave  way  to  that  of 
seeming  peace  and  goodvall.      The  peasant  evidently 
guessed  that  all  was  not  right,  for  he  not  only  attended 
to  my  appeal,  by  consenting  to  remain  with  us,  but 
ofiered  me  the  usual  symbol  of  peace,  a  bit  of  bread — 
which   served   the  double  purpose  of  reassuring  me, 
and  of  furnishing  me  with  the  means  of  testing  the 
intentions  of  the  Mitaulis.     After  some  difficulty  the 
elder  man  took  the  bread  ;  the  younger,  after  repeated 
solicitations  on  my  part,  followed  his  example,  but  spat 
it  out  ¥rith  much  indignation,  as  if  it  would  have  choked 
him. 

This  little  episode  over,  we  moved  on,  still  in  a 
westerly  direction,  the  friendly  peasant  continuing  with 
us,  and  soon  overtook  the  advanced  portion  of  our 
party,  between  whom  and  my  companions  there  evi- 
dently existed  no  friendly  feeling.  It  occurred  to  me 
that  I  might  turn  this  mutual  distrust  to  good  account ; 
so,  producing  the  Sultan's  firman,  which  they  placed 
on  their  heads  with  many  demonstrations  of  respect,  I 

c 


18  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  proceeded  to  rouse  their  cupidity,  by  displaying  before 
w  ,- — '  their  longing  eyes  ray  bag  of  money — ^which,  being  filled 
with  gold  pieces  largely  mixed  with  copper,  made  a 
great  display — and  was  eagerly  greeted  with  the  expres- 
sive 'Mashallah! '  from  every  mouth,  and  cries  and  ges- 
tures of  surprise  and  deUght  I  was  at  once  told  to 
put  up  my  money,  which  had  increased  their  mutual 
distrust,  to  an  extent  which  at  once  showed  itself  in 
wranghng  and  bitter  irritation  to  a  great  extent  The 
storm,  however,  subsided  without  bloodshed,  and  it  was 
proposed  that  I  should  decide  to  which  party  I  would 
belong.  There  were  only  three  on  one  side,  who  were 
the  people  of  Mitre,  four  on  the  other  belonging  to  the 
Embar-  village  of  Akoura.  I  was  now  in  a  great  strait,  but  I 
S^twn.  had  broken  bread  with  the  people  of  Mitre,  which 
weighed  in  their  favour ;  my  friend  the  peasant  also 
seemed  inchned  to  remain  with  them,  and  the  Akoura 
people  were  less  well  known — all  which  considerations 
turned  the  scale  in  favour  of  the  smaller  number,  with 
whom  I  moved  on  towards  Mitre.  The  disappointed 
majority  persisted  in  remaining  near  us,  giving  us  no 
little  annoyance,  and  evidently  ready  to  be  still  more 
troublesome,  and  the  apprehension  of  an  attack  from 
them  only  ceased  when  we  entered  the  little  town  of 
Mitre. 
Reach  The  chief  of  our  party,  an  old  man,  was  received  by 

the  inmates  of  his  house  with  affectionate  greetings, 
and  showed  no  little  anxiety  to  induce  me  to  place  my 
baggage  under  his  roof.  But,  as  I  did  not  quite  see 
the  desirability  of  this  arrangement,  I  remained  sitting 
on  a  wall  outside,  until  it  occurred  to  me  to  make  my 
way,  leading  my  horse,  to  the  Sheikh,  from  whom,  after 


Mitre. 


ABRIYAL  AT  AND   DEPARTURE   FRO&I   MITRE.  19 

showing  him  the  Sultan's  finnan,  I  obtained  an  unwill-  chap. 
ing  and  somewhat  doubtful  promise  of  protection.  ^ — r-^^ 
My  disappointment,  however,  at  this  moment  was  great, 
on  finding  that  my  valuable  ally,  the  peasant — no  doubt 
considering  that  I  was  now  quite  safe — ^had  slipped 
away  quietly,  and  my  best  efforts  foiled  to  find  out 
the  man  to  whom  I  owe  more  than  I  can  express. 

Later  in  the  evening,  Anastasius  and  the  muleteer  Arrival  of 

,  my  serv&nt 

made  their  appearance  at  my  halting-place,  the  Sheikh's  and  horses. 
stable,  full  of  excuses  for  their  misconduct,  which  had 
been  so  fax  redeemed,  that  they  had  ventured  on  after 
ascertaining  that  I  was  safe  at  Mitre.  Their  arrival 
provided  me  with  the  means  of  getting  supper,  and 
also  brought  me  my  gun,  which  gave  me  a  feeling  of 
confidence,  notwithstanding  my  isolated  position,  among 
people  who  were  the  terror  of  this  part  of  Syria.  StiU  Leare 
it  was  a  question  whether  I  could  proceed  with  safety, 
until  the  Sultan's  firman  caused  the  Sheikh  to  furnish 
me  with  a  reliable  guide,  with  whom  I  set  out  for 
Tripoli  the  next  morning,  and  the  magnificently  bold 
scenery  through  which  T  passed  caused  the  excitement  « 

of  the  previous  day's  journey  to  be  almost  forgotten. 

A  steep  descent  of  the  mountain  slope  brought  me  to 
the  rapid  River  Akoura,  by  the  side  of  which  my  guide  RiTcr 
and  I  found  a  passage  cut  tlirough  the  rock,  with  a  spa- 
cious cave  adjoining  it — partly  artificial,  and  partly 
oatuial.  Here  we  had  our  last  sight  of  Mitre,  and  of 
the  mountain-side,  the  scene  of  the  previous  day's  ad- 
venture. Several  villages  were  passed,  as  we  advanced 
along  the  wooded  slopes  of  these  mountain  valleys,  in 
one  of  which  we  came  upon  the  ruins  of  I  he  Temple  Temple  of 
of  Naon ;   and  we  reached  Tripoli   in  the  afternoon, 

c  2 


20  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    just  as  a  bridal  procession  was  issuing  from  the  Convent 
' — . — '  of  St.  Demetrius. 

Conduct  of  From  Tripoli  I  despatched,  through  the  Consul,  an 
lis  made  attested  statement  of  the  conduct  of  the  Mitaulis,  which 
The  Sui-  ^^^^  ^^  seriously  taken  up,  that  I  appealed  to  the  Sultan 
tan  npged    jq  Spare  the  hves  of  the  offenders,  and  terminated  this 

to  spare  *^  ^ 

their  lives,  affair,  SO  far  as  I  was  concerned,  by  the  dismissal  of 
Anastasius  and  the  muleteer. 

Tripoli  Tripoli  possesses  a  remarkable  castle,  and  its  environs 

are  interesting.  A  good  road — a  rarity  in  Syria — to 
the  westward,  leads  the  traveller  through  woods  of  oak, 
pine,  and  rich  mulberry  plantations,  to  the  village  of  Eden, 
a  very  picturesque  spot,  situated  amidst  alpine  scenery, 
diversified  with  convents,  and  numerous  villages  on  the 
mountain  slopes.     A  ride  of  eight  or  nine  hours  onward 

The  brought  me  to  the  far-femed  Cedars  of  Lebanon,  nine  of 

Leham)nf  whicli  Still  remain  in  a  very  sheltered  mountain  hollow, 
in  which  their  prodigious  trunks  are  nearly  hidden  by 
the  rich  foUage  of  their  pendant  branches.* 

Retnni  by       To  thcse  reminders  of  the  great  works  of  Solomon 

Bh,*ftlbot  to  

DaBOBcus.  and  Hiram  followed  a  visit  to  Ba'albek,  once  the  City 
of  the  Sun — also  that  of  Baal,  the  Baalath  of  Solomon,f 
and  the  site  of  the  palace  built  by  this  monarch  for 
the  daughter  of  Pharaoh.:|;  The  examination  of  these 
great  remains,  which  have  now  been  too  well  described 
by  modern  travellers  to  need  any  addition  from  me, 
was  followed  by  a  journey  to  Damascus,  with  a  view  to 
other  enquiries. 

*  For  a  plate  of  the  Cedars,  see  vol.  ii.  p.  389  of '  Euphrates  Expedition.' 

t  1  Kings  ix.  18 ;  2  Chron.  riii.  6. 

I  Vol.  i.  p.  84  of '  Benjamin  of  Tudela,'  bj  A.  Asher. 


21 


CHAPTER  m. 

OUTLDiE   OF  ▲  JOUBNKT,   THROUQH  THE   HAOUIUN  AND  DBGAP0U8, 
ON  THE   WAT  TO  THE  BIYEB  EUPHRATES. 

Os  reaching  the  Syrian  capital,  with  the  intention  of    chap. 
continuing  my  journey  to  the  eastward,  I  found,  to  my  ^-   ■ ' 
serious  disappointment,  that  there  was  no  immediate 
possibility   of  getting    onward  to  Scanderoon,   from 
whence  I  proposed  conveying  two  boats  across  the 
country,  in  order  to  form  them  into  a  raft,  to  navigate 
the  Euphrates.     This  part  of  my  plan  being  thus  frus- 
trated, I  thought  that  this  inopportune   delay  might 
yet  be  turned  to  good  account,  by  an  examination  of  proposed 
the  countries  lying  eastward  and  westward  of  the  River  S^of* 
Jordan,  especially  as  I  found,  from  a  communication  ^"^^^ 
received  from  the  Foreign  Office,  that  it  had  been  ^fthe 

°  ^  Jordan. 

proposed  to  Gbvemment  that  the  mails  should  be 
carried  from  India  as  far  as  the  town  of  Hit,  and  from 
this  place,  across  the  country,  to  one  of  the  ports  on 
the  Mediterranean  coast — such  as  Beirut,  Tripoli,  or 
Sidon,  &c.  Having  received  a  copy  of  Consul-General 
Farren's  letter  on  this  subject  to  the  Foreign  Office,* 
I  felt  that  there  was  now  an  opportunity  of  ascertain- 
ing whether  any  such  preponderating  advantages  could 
exist  as  would  compensate  for  a  long  land-joumqr 
from  Hit,  instead  of  the  shorter  and  easier  ascent  of 


*  October  16, 1834,  to  the  Secret  Committee  of  the  Honourable  Ka»t 
India  Company,  through  the  Foreign  Office. 


r 


22  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     the  river  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Aleppo.     With  tlie 
._ — ^ — .  assistance  of  the  acting  French  Consul  (M.  Baudin),  my 
preparations  were  soon  made ;  and  Mr.  George  Eobin- 
A  fellow-    son,  who  happened  to  be  then  travelling  through  Syria, 
was  quite  ready  to  join  me.     As  the  best  means  of 
accomplishmg  our  object,  we  enlisted  the  services  of  a 
Sheikh       travelling    apothecary,    Sheikh    Woofa,   who,   in   his 
^^^*'       capacity  of  a  wandering   practitioner,   was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  people  of  the  country  through  which 
we  had  to  pass.     Horses  and  other  necessaries  pro- 
start  from   vided,  we  started  from  Damascus  ;  and  although  imto- 
*"*      '   ward  circumstances  greatly  curtailed   our  plans,  we 
still  managed  to  visit  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
country  lying   to    the   eastward  of    the    Dead    Sea. 
Anxious,  however,  to  carry  the  reader  on  to  the  great 
object  of  my  journeys,  and  of  this  work — the  descent 
and  navigation  of  the  Euphrates— I  shall  merely  enume- 
rate here  a  few  of  the  places  visited  in  the  Decapolis. 
Directing  our  course  to  the  southward,  on  quitting 
EiKessou-  Damascus,  our  first  night's  halt  was  at  El  Kessouan; 
and  passing  from  thence  by  Deir  Ali,  we  arrived  at 
Missema.    Misscma  the  next  afternoon,  where  many  remains  and 
inscriptions  mark  the  site  of  ancient  Phenesus.    Onwards 
a  winding  path  brought  us  after  dark  to  an  Arab  tent, 
Hospitable  wlicrc  wc  werc  hospitably  welcomed,  and  which  we 
recep  ion.    ^^^^^  ^^^^  momiug,  to  our  surprise,  formed  part  of  an 

Arab  camp,  which  was  ensconced  in  one  of  the  sinuous 
openings  of  the  singular  pathway,  which  winds  in 
concentric  curves  through  vast  masses  of  volcanic  rock. 
The  egress  from  this  camp  was  so  diflBcult,  that  it 
required  one  of  the  tribe  to  guide  us  out  through  the 
succession  of  winding  passages,  which  at  eveiy  turn 


VISIT  TO  8HAARA  AKD  KERATIIA.  23 

seemed  to  be  altogether  closed.     At  length,  however,    ohap. 
we  were  clear  of  the  rocks,  and  passmg  a  stony  plain,  ^    ^7'-> 
we  halted  at  Shaara,  where  about  a  hundred  Chris-  shaar*. 
tian    and  Druse  families  still  occupied  a  portion   of 
the  remains  of  a  once  considerable  city,  which  is  now 
surrounded  by   an   almost    continuous  rocky  waste, 
bearing  however,  at  intervals,  marks  and  remains  of  its 
former  populous  condition. 

On  quitting  Shaara,  we  passed  the  ruins  of  two 
towns  both  bearing  the  name  of  Oreb,  and  going 
onward,  by  the  inhabited  villages  of  Hubab  and  Zebel, 
we  halted  at  Keratha.  A  castle  and  a  large  square  Kentha. 
tower  are  still  in  good  preservation  amidst  these  re- 
mains, which  contain  many  Greek  inscriptions.  Having 
copied  several  of  these,  our  onward  journey  was  re- 
sumed; and  having  visited  the  extensive  remains  of 
Shagga,  we  halted  for  the  night  at  Zarava,  or  Ezra.  Em. 
This  must  at  one  time  have  been  a  considerable  city, 
since  its  various  temples  and  other  buildings  still 
occupy  a  space  of  about  four  miles  in  circumference. 
The  present  inhabitants,  who  are  chiefly  Greeks,  and 
few  in  number,  occupy  some  of  the  ancient  buildings, 
which,  being  substantially  constructed  of  stone,  are  still 
in  a  complete  state  of  preservation. 

Having  completed  our  examination,  and  copied  some 
of  the  mmierous  Greek  and  Arabic  inscriptions  which  we 
found,  a  visit  to  the  ruins  of  Sour  followed ;  and  passing 
onward  by  the  villages  of  Assim  and  Louban,  we  halted 
at  Deir  DhamL    It  ¥ra8  almost  dark  when  we  arrived  ^ir 

Dhami* 

at  the  Bedouin  camp  of  Sal6,  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
place,  which  consisted  of  some  20  tents,  to  which  bright 
lighto  guided  our  steps,  and  here  we  sought  the  usual 


24  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPERATES  EXPEDITION. 

hospitality.  This,  however,  was  given  by  the  Sheikh 
with  evident  reluctance,  owing,  as  we  discovered,  to 
the  apprehension  of  an  attack  from  a  neighbouring  tribe. 
But  this  first  difficulty  being  overcome,  our  host  con- 
sented to  conduct  us  to  some  of  the  neighbouring  ruins. 
Daylight  showed  that  we  had  entered  quite  a  labyrinth 
of  rocks ;  but  imder  the  guidance  of  our  now  willing 
host,  Mr.  Eobinson  and  I  were  enabled  to  examine 
Deir  Dhami  and  other  ruins  of  interest,  after  which  we 
resumed  our  route,  although  our  animals  had  been  left 
without  food. 

LeBTeSai^.  Taking  an  easterly  direction,  on  quitting  Sale  we 
found  the  passages  towards  Om  Ezultum  so  sinuous, 
and  so  much  circumscribed  by  masses  of  rock,  that 
even  our  guide  at  one  time  halted,  and  looked 
round  almost  in  despair  of  finding  an  exit.  His  un- 
certainty, however,  was  but  momentary,  and  a  more 
open  road  was  speedily  found.  During  the  four  hours 
which  were  occupied  in  going  through  this  singular 
district,  the  ruins  of  Boyer  were  seen  at  intervals 
through  this  wilderness  of  rocks,  between  which, 
the  scantiest  patches  of  cultivation  occasionally  ap- 
peared. Some  little  distance  onward,  we  came,  on  the 
declivity  of  Jebel  Haouran,  to  the  remains  of  Soueda, 
with  its  numerous  inscriptions ;  and  passing  subsequently 
remains  of  other  cities,   we  halted  for  the  night  at 

om  Ezui-  Om  Ezultum.  Next  morning  we  visited  the  temples, 
cisterns,  and  other  remains  of  this  once  extensive  city, 
which  now  scarcely  contains  thirty  families  of  Druses ; 
and  then  rode  on  to  Shobba,  now  the  principal  seat 
of  this  singular  people.  Here  we  found  a  theatre, 
some   temples,  cisterns,   and   numerous   strongly-built 


t&m. 


RUINS  OF  KANOUAT,  AATTL,  AND  80UEDA.  25 

dwellings,  some  of  which  are  occupied  by  the  present    chap. 
inhabitants.     At  Zimri,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 


this  place,  we  saw  the  remains  of  a  Doric  temple,  and  pioTof*™' 
those  of  a  spacious  square  tower,  firom  which  the  ex-  ^°^ 
tensive  ruins  of  Shakka  were  visible.  About  two  hours' 
distance  from  the  latter  place  we  came,  unexpectedly, 
upon  the  small  but  beautiful  temple  of  Salem,  on  the  •ndSaiwa. 
front  of  which  is  a  long  Greek  inscription,  which  we 
copied,  and  then  ascended  the  western  side  of  the 
adjoining  hill  to  Kanouat.* 
•  The  ancient  upper  as  well  as  the  lower  town  are  't^.*'"  ■?* 

.  .  ruins  of 

here  quite  distinguishable,  while  the  remains  of  temples,  Kanonat. 
palaces,  theatres,  and   churches  are   very  extensive. 
There  were  also  numerous   broken   statues,  several 
tombs,  columns,  and  one  or  two  very  massive  buUdings, 
which  were  aU  but  hidden  by  luxuriant  oaks. 

From  Eanouat  we  visited  the  columns  and  other 
remains  of  Aatyl,  and  then  went  on  to  Soueda,  the  R«naiMof 

.  ,      Aatyl  and 

ruins  of  which  cover  a  space  of  nearly  four  miles  in  Souoda. 
circumference-     They  are  partially  inhabited  by  Druses. 
Passing  by  Ezra,  travelling  over  a  plain  of  rich  black 
soil,  we  reached  Miniken  in  the  evening,  where  it  had  Mmiken 
been  arranged  that  we  should  meet  our  Arab  escort. 

The  Sheikh  received  us  with  more  than  doubtful 
hospitality,  and  our  intended  guide,  who  we  ascertained 
had  arrived  at  the  camp,  did  not  come  to  our  quarters, 
which  had  a  suspicious  appearance.  It  was  with 
difficulty  that  we  obtained  sufficient  space  in  a  cattle- 
shed  to  lie  down  for  the  night,  while  we  had  to  depend 
on  what  our  saddlebags  could  furnish  in  the  way  of 
food.     However,  late  in  the  evening,  the  Arab  chief 

*  Kenaih :  Nuuiben,  xxxii.  42. 


26  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.    Hattib  appeared,  and,  after  a  good  deal  of  diflSculty,  he 
-   /   ^  agreed  to  conduct  us  (by  Jerash  and  Souan)  to  Petra,  in 


order  to  proceed  from  the  latter  place  round  the  Dead 

Agreement  Sea.     For  this  service  Hattib  was  to  receive  600  hard 

Hattib.       piastres  ;  and  as  he  was  in  the  habit  of  conducting  the 

pilgrims  to  Mecca,  our  arrangements  seemed  most  satis- 

sheikii       factory,  both   to  Mr.  Eobinson   and  myself.     Sheikh 

leaves  us.    Woofe,  howcvcr,  HO  doubt  thought  otherwise,  for  he 

suddenly  announced  to  us  that  the  services,  which  he 

had  performed  so  faithfully,  were  now  to  be  at  an  end ; 

and  he  turned  his  steps  homeward  the  next  morning, 

after  being  well  compensated  for  his  trouble,  while  we 

continued   our  projected   journey,   although,  as    the 

sequel  proved,  with  sadly  misplaced  confidence. 

We  passed  the  villages  of  Ham  and  Botta,  and  halted 
jy^Y  for  the  night  at  Daal.  We  all  occupied  one  spacious 
apartment ;  the  Arabs  arranged  their  lances  and  other 
arms  along  the  walls ;  coffee  was  served,  followed  by  the 
An  Arab  usual  pilau  of  boilcd  wheat,  in  the  shape  of  a  little  pyra- 
mid, with  small  pieces  of  broiled  meat  scattered  over  its 
surface.  Some  sixteen  hungry  individuals,  after  passing 
a  little  water  over  the  fingers  of  the  right  hand,  hastily 
squatted  round  this  ponderous  dish,  and  its  contents 
speedily  disappeared.  Another  dish  of  the  same  size 
being  brought,  a  second  set  of  Arabs  took  the  places  of 
the  first.  A  third  party  now  came,  and  finally  a  fourth. 
When  all  had  supped,  and  were  seated  along  the  walls 
of  the  apartment,  coffee  was  again  served  all  round ; 
and  the  evening  meal  being  thus  completed,  Hattib 
produced  a  primitive  guitar,  and  his  barbarous  attempt 
at  music  concluded  our  first  evening's  entertainment, 
after  which  all  settled  themselves  to  rest  for  the  night. 


•npper. 


A&ICS  A5D  EQUIPMENTS  OF  THE  ABAB8.  27 

Whilst  preparing  to  depart  early  next  morning,  a    phap. 
slight  meal  was  brought,  consisting  of  some  poor  v^e-  -- — . — ' 
table  broth  called  chotiba,  with  bread  freshly  baked  on 
a  girdle,  and  a  Kttle  thick  sour  milk  (yaourt).    Our  meal 
was  followed  by  the  usual  bustUng  scene  of  mounting ; 
and  quitting  Daal,  we  resumed  our  desert  journey,  QuitDwo. 
during  which  we  had  ample  time  and  opportunity  of 
becoming  acquainted  with  the  composition  and  capabili- 
ties of  our  Arab  escort.     Some  of  our  party  were  Arms  and 
armed  with  the  djereed  or  dart,  others  with  pistols  or  mc^u  of 
matchlocks ;     many  had   sabres,    and    nearly   every  ^  *   "  • 
individual  had  an  Arab  spear,  which,  having  a  bamboo 
shaft  or  handle,  is  peculiarly  light  and  very  manageable. 
This  is  quite  eight  feet  long,  and  has  at  the  lower  ex- 
tremity a  spike,  to  strike  into  the  ground  on  halting, 
and  at  the  other  a  short  spearhead,  protruding  beyond 
a  fringe  of  either  black  or  white  ostrich-feathers.     Our 
Arabs,  as  we  ascertained  subsequently,  belonged  to  the 
Aniza  tribe,  and  each  was  mounted  on  a  handsome 
mare,  and  had  a  sleeping-rug  made  of  very  thick  cloth, 
which  in  the  daytime  was  rolled  up  and  placed  behind 
his  saddle.    With  the  exception  of  our  leader,  who 
wore  a  rich  silk  dress  under  a  handsome  white  bour-  Their 
nouse,  Hattib's  people  had  the  usual  striped  cloak,  and 
a  handkerchief  placed  over  the  head  with  the  two 
comers  hanging  down,  and  kept  in  its  place  by  means 
of  a  turban  of  rolled  woollen  thread,  which  is  so  pecu- 
liarly Arab.     The  whole  party  were  evidently  animated 
by  joyous  feelings,  as  we  moved  onward  over  a  bare 
undulating  country,  though  with  good  soil. 

Having  passed  the  ruined    castle  of  Hudhr,  and 
afterwards   tlic   two   villages    of   Mezira,   the    spirits 


28 


NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP,  of  tlie  children  of  the  desert  gave  rise  to  a  most 
* — r-^  lively  scene  ;  and  what  had  hitherto  been  an  orderly 
march,  very  cautiously  conducted,  with  two  scouts 
in  advance,  and  others  moving  in  parallel  lines  on  the 
Desert  flanks,  bccamc  quite  an  exempUfication  of  desert  war- 
fare.  In  one  case,  some  five  or  six,  with  their  lances 
firmly  at  rest,  and  projecting  three  or  four  feet  in  front 
of  their  horses'  heads,  were  seen  advancing  at  fiill 
speed  ;  but  just  when  on  the  point  of  meeting  those  who 
awaited  their  onset  as  enemies,  they  suddenly  brought 
up,  by  throwing  their  horses  on  their  haunches ;  and 
•whirling  round  at  the  same  instant,  they  retreated 
with  all  speed,  and  continued  to  do  this  pursued  by 
their  enemies,  till  such  a  position  was  reached  as 
enabled  them  to  halt  and  face  about  to  defend  them- 
selves in  turn.  t^ 
An  Arab  Elsewhcrc  on  the  plain  another,  and  no  less  in- 
ment. "  teresting,  exercise  was  going  on  at  the  same  time — that 
of  hurling  the  djereed.  This  performance  is,  in  reality, 
the  tournament  of  the  desert,  knightly  prowess  being 
here  represented  by  the  skill  and  activity  of  the  Arab. 
He  goes  at  full  speed  till  close  to  his  supposed  enemy, 
when,  having  hurled  his  weapon  with  great  impetus 
against  the  foe,  he  wheels  about  without  even  check- 
ing his  steed,  and  gallops  away,  closely  pursued  by 
the  party  attacked.  A  few  hours  after  these  interesting 
displays  of  Arab  skill,  we  enured  that  part  of  the 
Bwhan.  country  which  represents  ancient  Bashan.  Now  pro- 
ceeding along  the  eastern  limits  of  the  latter  territory, 
and  passing  the  remains  at  Daal,  we  halted  at  Draa 
(once  Edrei),  which  place  having  been  taken  from  its 


ARAB  ORDER   OP  MARCH  AND   BIVOUAC.  29 

giant  masters  by  the  conquering  Israelites,*  the  land    chap. 
became  '  desolate  from  all  that  is  therein.'f    Here  we  ' — r-^ 
found  an  extensive  cistern  of  120  yards  long  by  64  yards  e^^' 
wide — also  part  of  an  aqueduct  and  other  remains,  which 
cover  a  space  of  about  three  miles  in  circumference.  The 
modem  buildings  are  a  mosque  (which  had  once  been 
a  fine  edifice),  a  bath,  and  numerous  dwellings,  generally 
in  a  ruinous  state.     We  remained  at  this  place  the 
whole  of  the  next  day,  and  during  this  enforced  delay 
I  set  out  to  visit  Mezerib,  which  was  hkely  to  be  in- 
teresting ;  but  my  intention  was  frustrated  by  Hattib, 
who  followed  me,  promising  that  I  should  have  another 
opportunity  of  going  thither,  but  that  I  must  now 
return. 

We  left  Draa  still  with  the  firm  belief  that  Hattib  Onward 
was  about  to  complete  his  engagement,  and  under  this 
impression  our  journey  was  continued  to  the  south- 
ward.    Two  Arabs  were  always  stationed  on  each  Arab  order 
flank,  and  two  in  advance ;  whose  figures  were  par-  ^  ""^ 
ticularly  conspicuous  as  we  followed  them  over  the  bare 
swelling  hills,  which  are  well  suited  for  sheep-pasture. 
Leaving  the  round  hill  caUed  Jebel  Hadra  about  a 
mile  to  the  right,  we  bivouacked  in  a  narrow  valley, 
containing  chiefly  silver  poplars.    Here,  after  picketing 
horses,  and  making  a  light  supper,  the  Arabs  covered  and  bi- 
themselves,  the  head  especially,  in  the  portable  sleep- 
ing-rug4l  which  each  had  brought  behind  his  saddle ; 
and  all  were  speedily  sound  asleep. 

The  result  of  my  remonstrances  with  Hattib,  about 

*  *  Og  the  king  of  Bashan  and  all  his  people  went  to  the  battle  of 
Edrei.'    (Numbers  zxi.  83.) 
t  Exekiel  xU.  19. 
t  These  nigs  were  of  very  thick  cloth,  like  that  known  as  wad  mill  tilt. 


Youac. 


80  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     quitting  the  direct  line  through  Mezerib,  had  not  been 

• — . — '  altogether  satisfactory  to   me ;  and  I  therefore  took 

advantage    of  the   bright  moonlight,   while   all   our 

A  moon-     pcoplc  wcrc  sunk  in  sleep,  to  ascend  the  adjoining  hill, 

TOirey.       and  take  bearings  of  Mezerib,  Szalt,  Bozra,  and  other 

places.     But  when  I  wished  to  retrace  my  steps,  I 

could  see   nothing  of  our  bivouac,  which  had  been 

so  judiciously  placed  in  a  nook  on  one  side  of  the 

valley  in  which  it  lay,  as  to  be  quite  concealed.     It 

was  only  after  wandering  about  for  some  time,  that  I 

managed  to  find  our  sleeping  party. 

Our  journey  was  resumed  with  dayhght,  and  we 
Valley  of    halted  a  little  later  in  another  valley — that  of  the  Nahr- 

Nahr-el-  .   ,        . 

Kwab.  el-Kasab,  thick  with  well-grown  poplars,  oaks,  and  pines, 
and  where  quite  a  wood  of  oleanders  was  sparkling  in 
the  morning  light.  The  latter,  being  of  a  convenient 
size,  quickly  supplied  our  Arabs  with  materials  for  two 
or  three  bright  fires,  round  which  they  squatted  in  circles. 
After  a  brief  rest,  our  journey  was  resumed,  and  followed 
at  first  the  course  of  the  stream  running  through  the 
valley,  but  eventually  took  a  more  southerly  direction. 
We  passed  over  undulating  pasture-ground  covered 
with  flocks  of  sheep,  without  seeing  anything  like 
a  shepherd.  Towards  noon,  to  our  surprise,  Hattib 
First  Tiew  Suddenly  turned  his  horse  round,  vociferating,  with  great 
ofAmmaiu  animation,  *  Amman— Amman  ! '  while  at  the  same 
moment,  being  on  elevated  ground,  we  made  out  some 
buildings  on  the  distant  hills,  and  descried,  through  an 
opening  between  them,  a  httle  farther  on,  the  Nahr- 
Amman  winding  between  two  ranges  of  hills,  on  the 
slopes  of  which  were  several  remarkable  buildings. 
The  Arabs  halted,  as  is  their  usual  custom,  short  of 


EABBOrn  OF  THE  AMMONITES.  31 

tlie  ruins,  and  we  prepared,  with  great  delight,  to  avail  chap. 
ourselves  of  this  unexpected  opportunity  of  examining  - — r-^ 
them.  A  visit  to  Amman  had  formed  no  part  of  our 
agreement  with  our  escort  ;  but  as  they  had  brought  us 
to  its  neighbourhood,  we  determined  to  propitiate  them 
by  the  present  of  a  sheep,  anticipating  that,  during  the 
time  occupied  by  their  feast  and  its  preparation,  we 
should  be  able  to  accomplish  a  visit  to  the  ruins. 

The  sheep  was  received  with  delight,  and  they  at  Amb 
once  excavated  a  sufficient  space  to  contain  the  animal,  roasting 
lighting  a  fire  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole,  and  placed  the  baking, 
sheep  without  being  skinned  upon  it,  and  then  closed 
the  aperture,  covering  it  with  sods  and  earth  to  facili- 
tate the  baking  process.     We  subsequently  learnt  that 
this  was  satisfactorily  accomplished,  and  that  the  roast- 
ing of  the  sheep  occupied  about  two  hours  ;  while  excel- 
lent thin  cakes  of  bread  were  baked  simultaneously,  in  a 
similar  though  smaller  oven  hollowed  out  in  the  ground. 

While  our  Arabs  were  thus  agreeably  employed,  Examina- 

tion  of  tho 

Mr.  Bobinson  and  I  hastened  to  the  ruins  of  Amman,  mins  of 
and  to  expedite  matters  each  undertook  to  visit  and 
examine  a  separate  portion  of  these  remains,  which, 
as  Babboth  of  the  Ammonites,  belong  at  least  to  the 
very  earliest  period  of  Jewish  history.  My  part  b^an 
with  what  seemed  to  be  almost  the  source  of  the 
stream,  which  runs  over  a  paved  bed,  and  winds  on- 
wards between  handsome  stone- built  quays,  which 
in  some  places  are  still  almost  perfect.  Following  the 
stream,  between  various  remains  on  both  sides,  we 
arrived  at  a  portion  of  the  early  city  which  excited  all 
our  attention.  Near  the  left  bank  stood  a  most  re- 
markable building,  in  the  form  of  a  half  hexagon,  the 


32 


NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
III. 


Ancient 
public 
prome- 
nade. 


Grand 
theatre  at 
Amman. 


centre  of  which  contains  a  semicircular  arch  and 
recess,  while  in  the  centre  of  the  other  two  sides  of 
the  figure  there  is  a  similar  recess,  though  of  smaller 
dimensions  than  the  first  A  wall,  lower  than  that  of 
the  main  building,  but  of  similar  construction,  is  carried 
on  some  distance,  and  the  remains  of  a  hne  of  columns, 
parallel  to  the  front  of  this  structure,  mark  the  limits 
of  what  was  probably,  originally,  a  public  walk,  not  un- 
like, though  superior  to,  that  of  the  hot  wells  at  Clifton. 
A  httle  below  this  part  of  the  city,  there  is  a  fine 
bridge,  the  only  one  still  remaining ;  and  a  little  farther 
to  the  west  are  hues  of  columns,  which  appear  originally 
to  have  formed  an  extensive  quadrangle,  and  to  have 
been  connected  with  the  two  theatres,  on  the  south- 
west side  of  the  stream,  which  constitute  the  most 
striking  features  of  the  ruins.  The  first  of  these,  which 
occupies  the  side  of  the  hill,  with  its  opening  towards 
the  river,  is  128  feet  in  diameter,  exclusive  •  of  the 
depth  of  the  seats,  of  which  there  are  42  rows, 
all  of  cut  stone.  These  are  in  three  divisions,  with 
fourteen  rows  of  seats  in  each,  access  to  every  place 
being  secured  by  means  of  passages,  and  sloping 
galleries  at  intervals.  This  was  the  largest  and  alto- 
gether the  most  perfect  theatre  which  I  ever  saw 
during  my  various  journeys.  At  a  right  angle,  and 
close  to  this  structure,  there  is  a  smaller  theatre  of 
about  100  feet  in  diameter,  which  is  now  in  a  ruinous 
state.  It  appears  to  have  had  three  entrances,  and 
the  remains  of  five  rows  of  seats  may  still  be  traced. 
A  line  of  columns  marks  the  limits  of  a  square  enclosure, 
having  the  river  in  the  centre  of  the  space,  which  pro- 
bably was  appropriated  to  horse  and  gymnastic  exercises. 


TH£  CASTLE  AND  TEMPLE   OF  AMKAX.  33 

The  former  city  appears  to  have  been  built  close  to  the     chap. 
northern  hills,  on  the  crest  of  which  are  the  massive  ^ — r-^— ' 
walls  of  the  Castle  of  Amman,  and  within  these  are  c*"^«  »f 

Amman. 

portions  of  a  Corinthian  temple,  and  several  cisterns 
cut  in  the  rock.  The  remains  of  houses  fill  up  the 
rest  of  the  space,  which  has  the  form  of  a  parallelogram. 
A  little  way  to  the  eastward,  the  walls  of  the  ancient 
city  were  conspicuous  ;  but  before  there  was  time  even 
to  commence  our  examination  in  this  direction,  Hattib 
appeared,  and  urged  our  immediate  departure,  in  order 
to  avoid  '  an  expected  attack,'  In  any  case,  our 
investigation  of  the  ruins  was  all  but  completed,  and 
we  therefore  acceded  to  his  request ;  and  taking  a 
southerly  direction,  as  before,  we  passed  between  the 
village  of  Um-el-Khalid,  which  occupied  the  summit 
of  a  low  hill  on  our  right,  and  the  tumulus  of 
Djaleed  on  our  left.  The  Arabs  entertain  a  feeling  of 
deep  veneration  for  this  tumulus,  which  contains  (they 
say)  the  bones  of  Hamed,  the  builder  both  of  Amman 
and  of  J  crash. 

^n  undulating  pasture-country  brought  us  to  a  cul- 
tivated spot,  which  was  to  be  our  camping-place  for  the 
night.  This  was  the  Arab  encampment  of  Gait-el-  oait-ei- 
Sook,  which  extended  for  some  distance  along  a  valley,  ^^p^°ent 
receding  in  a  northerly  direction.  Eobinson  and  I 
were  about  the  last  of  our  party  to  arrive,  and  we 
found  the  long  lances  of  our  Arabs  placed  at  the 
entrance  of  the  tents,  and  their  horses  already  picketed 
outside,  while  it  was  some  time  before  we  could  find 
any  accommodation.  A  general  supper  had  been  pre- 
pared for  the  whole  party,  however,  in  which  we  had 
been  included,  and  our  allotted  portion  of  goat's  flesh 


34 


NAKBATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 

m. 


Suleiman, 

Bedouin 

village. 


Wadi 
Hamming 


HattiVf 
Unt. 


Reception 
bj  Hattib. 


and  soup  were  most  acceptable  after  our  long  day's 
march. 

We  were  hurried  to  horse  before  daylight  the  next 
morning,  without  being  able  to  procure  even  a  little 
water.  We  passed  flocks  of  sheep,  watched  by  a 
solitary  Arab,  here  and  there,  and  stopped  to  dine  at 
the  Bedouin  village  of  Suleiman. 

During  this  halt  we  visited  the  remains  of  Grezia, 
which  occupy  three  adjoining  hills,  but  the  ruins 
are  of  but  little  interest.  They  consist  chiefly  of  unim- 
portant arched  buildings  ;  but  there  is  a  fine  dstem  of 
cut  stone,  130  feet  long  by  90  wide,  and  20  feet  deep, 
and  the  remains  of  an  aqueduct,  which  show  that  some 
place  of  importance  must  have  existed  in  this  vicinity  at 
one  time. 

Besuming  our  journey  in  the  afternoon,  we  crossed 
the  great  caravan  route  leading  to  Mecca,  and  entered 
Wadi  Hamman ;  taking,  as  usual,  the  precaution  of 
sending    some    well-mounted    men  in   advance,  and 
placing    others    at    a  little  distance  on    each    flanL 
Having  proceeded  thus  cautiously  for  some  time  after 
dark,  the  proximity  of  numerous  tents  and  the  barking 
of  dogs  led  us  to  expect  our  usual  halt  for  the  night. 
To  our  great  surprise,  however,  we  found  that  we  had 
been  deceived,  and  that  Hattib  had  conducted  us  to 
the  encampment  of  his  own  tribe,  of  which  his  tent 
formed  the  centre.     Here  he  was  warmly  greeted  by 
the  inmates  of  his  harem,  and,  turning  to  his  guests — 
his  mind,  as  it  soon  appeared,  ftiU  of  the  most  sinister 
designs — he  paid  us  the  Spanish  compliment  of  assuring 
us  that  all  was  at  our  disposal. 

Crowds  of  visitors  filled  his  spacious  tent  without 


EXACTIONS  OP  HATTIB.  35 

intennission,  and  the  various  household  occupations  chap. 
and  hospitality  of  the  evening  meal  restored  in  some  — r-^ 
degree  a  feeling  of  confidence  in  our  host.  Towards 
bedtime,  supper  was  brought  from  the  harem,  which 
was  only  separated  from  the  exterior  or  men's  apart- 
ment by  a  thin  curtain.  The  viands  consisted  of  bits 
of  meat  rolled  up  inside  thin  cakes  of  bread,  and  a 
dish  of  prepared  raisins,  which  was  followed  by  a 
huge  pUaiL  Stories  were  told  of  the  doings  of  the 
Aniza  Arabs  during  previous  journeys  and  a  cup  of  coffee 
ended  the  evening's  entertainment. 

The  prosecution  of  our  journey  was  naturally  up- 
permost in  our  thoughts,  but  whenever  we  approached 
the  subject  it  was  met  by  excuses,  which  soon  told  us 
that  Hattib  was  determined  to  exact  more  than  the 
stipulated  sum — which,  as  is  usual  in  all  Arab  trans- 
actions,  had  been  paid  in  full  in   advance — before 
carrying  out  his  agreement.     No  sooner  did  I  under- 
stand  this,  than  I  made  up  my  mind  to  leave  the 
encampment,  and  started  by  myself,  purposing  to  take  Leare 
a  direct  line  over  the  moimtains  to  the  Jordan.     In  camp.  * 
less  than  an  hour  I  heard  shouts  of '  Tal — tal '  ( *  Come 
back '  )  to  which  I  turned  a  deaf  ear,  and  continued  to 
proceed,  imtil  Yahia,  one  of  Hattib's  men,  and  a  com- 
panion  with  him,  appeared  in  front  of  me,  to  bar 
farther  progress.      I  produced  my   double-barrelled  ovfrtaken 
pistol,  and  they  gave  way.     I  went  on,  when  Hattib  ^Jj^s^and 
himself  came  up,  mounted  on  his  fleet  mare ;  and  seeing  h»^^- 
at  once  that  I  was  prepared  to  resist  him,  the  Arab 
chief  cantered  round  me  at  the  distance  of  about  six 
paces,  his  carbine  placed  against  his  shoulder,  resting 
on  his  bridle«rm,  and  his  dark  rolhng  eye  appearing 

D   2 


36  NARRATIVE   OF   THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  above  the  barrel  of  the  piece,  showing  unmistakably 
' — r-^— -  that  it  was  aimed  at  my  person ;  and  thus  it  was  kept, 
whilst,  at  a  hand-gallop,  Hattib  continued  to  circle 
round  me,  using  menacing  expressions,  which  left  little 
doubt  as  to  what  would  be  the  result  if  I  persisted  a 
moment  longer  in  my  purpose.  It  therefore  flashed 
across  my  mind,  that  submission  was  the  only  chance  of 
saving  my  hfe ;  and,  by  way  of  proving  that  resistance 
Suprendep  was  at  an  end,  I  instantly  sat  down,  placing  my  pistol 
on  one  side  as  I  did  so.  On  perceiving  that  there  was 
no  longer  anything  to  apprehend,  the  two  Arabs  came 
up,  and  proceeded  to  take  their  revenge  by  beating 
me  in  a  cowardly  manner.  Hattib  also  dismounted, 
and  approached  with  his  drawn  sabre,  apparently  de- 
termined to  cut  me  down. 

My  submission,  however,  diverted  him  from  his 
purpose,  although  he  continued  his  angry  menaces 
until  we  reached  his  tent,  which  I  at  first  refused  to 
enter,  and,  turning  my  back  upon  those  who  had  so  out- 
rageously violated  the  sacred  laws  of  hospitality,  I  vented 
my  feelings  in  the  epithet '  Harrami,'  meaning  'Eobbers.' 
Being,  however,  quite  in  their  power,  they  forced  me 
to  enter  the  tent,  where  I  took  my  seat  beside  my 
travelling  companion  in  no  enviable  frame  of  mind. 
The  tent  was  crowded  with  Usteners  and  talkers  dis- 
cussing the  events  of  the  day,  which  led — in  some  way 
which  my  imperfect  knowledge  of  Arabic  did  not 
Fracas  permit  me  to  comprehend — to  a  serious  fracas.  I  could 
Arabs.  understand  that  my  attempted  escape  was  the  cause  of 
the  excitement,  and  of  the  punishment  inflicted  by 
Hattib  on  those  of  his  followers  who  seemed  to  be  taking 
my  part ;  but  when  this  had  subsided,  he  reverted  to 


RESUMPTION  OF  OUB  JOURNEY.  37 

his  engagement,  and,  as  a  proof  of  his  sincerity,  actually  chap. 
quitted  his  camp  the  next  morning,  with  a  numerous  ' — r-*— ' 
escort,  who  were  however,  we  noticed,  without  their 
usual  travelling  accompaniments  of  rugs,  while  much 
whispering  and  mysterious  signs  made  us  fear  that 
all  was  not  right.  We  travelled  over  an  undulating 
country,  admirably  fitted  for  sheep-pasture,  and  passed 
the  ruins  of  the  town  of  Ain-es-Zebaid,  which  lie  in  a 
valley  on  the  great  Hajji  route ;  a  Uttle  farther  on  we 
reached  the  Castle  of  Jael,  occupying  an  eminence, 
and  reminding  me  forcibly,  by  its  structure,  of  the 
Vale  Castle  in  Guernsey.  Near  this  place  we  passed  a 
large  herd  of  camels  browsing  over  these  undulating 
downs,  guarded  by  two  mounted  Arabs.  Four  hours' 
riding  brought  us  within  sight  of  Om-el-Rassas  (Mother  Om-ei- 
of  Lead),  about  which  place  we  had  heard  a  great  "**' 
deal.  A  distant  view  of  its  lofty  walls  and  towers 
promised  to  realise  our  expectations,  but  a  nearer 
inspection  disappointed  us ;  for  we  found  its  buildings 
and  reservoirs,  although  extensive,  quite  uninteresting 
in  themselves.  The  neighbouring  lead-mine  might, 
however,  again  become  of  importance. 

I  had  scarcely  completed  my  examination  of  the 
ruins  of  Om-el-Eassas,  when  Eobinson  brought  me  the 
unexpected  intelligence,  that  Hattib  and  his  tribe  had 
departed  for  Medina,  taking  all  the  cash  they  could  Y»hia  an 

,  conductor. 

find  in  our  travelling-bags.  They  had  not,  however, 
left  us  entirely  to  our  own  resources.  Two  Arabs  had 
remained  behind,  ostensibly  for  the  purpose  of  con- 
ducting us  to  the  ruins  which  were  still  to  be  visited ; 
but  my  misgivings  were  seriously  increased  when  I 
perceived   that   the   individual  belonging   to  Hattib's 


38  NARRATIVE  OF  THB  EUPHRATB8  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  tribe,  on  whom  we  were  to  depend,  was  no  other  than 
^Ji^Yaliia,  who  had  already  beaten  me  so  shamefuUy.  Still, 
as  we  were  tlieir  equals  in  number,  I  cx)nsoled  myself 
with  the  reflection  that  I  could  either  leave  them  at 
any  time,  or — if  I  fancied  it  desirable  to  remain  rather 
than  compromise  Mr.  Eobinson's  safety — we  could 
either  discharge  the  fellows,  or  force  them  to  obey  us. 
Tent*  of  We  therefore  continued  our  route,  halting  in  the  after- 
noon at  the  tents  of  Akfou,  where — no  doubt  in 
accordance  with  a  previous  arrangement  of  Yahia — 
we  were  joined  by  another  of  Hattib's  people ;  and 
they  informed  us  that  our  liberation  was  to  depend  on 
their  receiving  a  considerable  ransom  from  Damascus, 
for  which  my  head  was  to  be  answerable,  and  which 
(I  now  learnt  for  the  first  time)  had  been  promised  by 
my  companion.  I  had  been  no  party  to  this  com- 
promise, and  therefore  considered  myself  at  Uberty  to 
Intended  cscapc,  which  I  proposcd  attempting,  by  creeping  out 
from  beneath  the  tent  after  nightfall,  and  making  my 
way  round  the  Dead  Sea  to  Jerusalem.  Mr.  Bobinson 
however  thought,  naturally  enough,  that  such  a  step 
would  compromise  his  safety,  which  decided  me  to 
remain,  and  confine  myself  to  sending  our  Greek  boy 
to  Szalt,  or  (failing  assistance  from  thence)  to  Damascus, 
to  procure  funds  and  aid  of  some  kind.  It  was  under 
these  uncomfortable  circumstances  that  we  quitted  tlie 
hospitable  tents  of  Akfou  the  next  morning. 

We  passed  in  succession  the  ruins  of  El-Hurry, 
Ain-Madaba  with  its  pyramids,  those  of  Grezia  also, 
and  halted  about  noon  at  the  Arab .  tents  of  Delola. 
Here  we  got  some  bread  after  a  short  rest,  and  rode  for 
four  hours  over  a  fine  grassy  plain  to  Madaba,  where 


escape. 


MADABA  AND  HESfiAN.  39 

we  found  the  ruins  of  a  temple,  the  site  of  an  extensive    cbaP. 

Ill 
town,  and  a  cistern  130  yards  long  by  100  wide,  and   — .-'-^ 

fiilly  18  feet  deep,  surroimded  by  a  massive  stone  wall.  ^*^^*- 
Soon  after  leaving  Madaba,  our  guards  pulled  up  on 
the  Plaiti  of  Hesban ;  and  here  they  got  Mr.  Bobinson 
to  enter  into  a  solemn  agreement  with  them,  in  the 
name  of  Allah  and  his  Prophet,  to  the  effect  that  a  Ransom 
certain  sum  of  money  was  to  be  paid  to  them  as  we  ^'^"* 
approached  Damascus.     I  was  no  party  to  this  agree- 
ment ;   but  Yahia  evidently  now  felt  secure  of  our 
ransom,  and  professed  himself  ready  to  proceed  with 
our  journey. 

We  passed  the  temple  and  shortly  afterwards  the  HmUb. 
castle  of  Hesban,  and  sought  hospitality  for  the  night 
at  the  tents  of  the  people  of  this  place,  which  were 
very  numerous,  covering  a  large  square  of  ground. 
The  evening  had  almost  closed  in  when  we  arrived,  but 
there  was  still  sufficient  light  to  enable  us  to  enjoy  the 
scenery,  which  was  very  attractive  ;  indeed,  we  were 
greatly  delighted  with  its  beauty  the  following  morning, 
when,  aft;er  a  cup  of  coffee,  we  left  the  camp  at  sun- 
rise. We  travelled  until  noon  through  a  succession  of 
valleys,  richly  wooded  with  oaks  and  other  fine  timber, 
to  Lisury,  where  the  Arab  tents,  like  those  at  Hesban,  inifixy. 
were  pitched  in  a  square,  and  in  a  sheltered  recess  on 
the  western  side  of  this  rich  and  fertile  valley.  Here 
we  had  to  go  through  another  curious  scene  with  our 
guards,  for  Yahia,  backed  by  the  people  of  Insury,  ^^*|*^, 
made  such  exorbitant  demands  as  must  have  put  us  to 
serious  inconvenience.  But  their  exactions  were  all 
agreed  to  by  my  companion,  and  with  good  reason, 
for  he  had  been  made  to  understand,  unmistakably, 


40  NAKBATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

^m^*    that  my  head  was  at  stake  in  case  of  any  hesitation 
on  his  part. 

From  Insury  we  took  a  northerly  direction,  passing 
through  a  succession  of  richly- wooded  hills,  below 
which  we  could  discern  the  Dead  Sea  and  trace  the 
River  Jordan,  with  a  mountain  range  behind  it,  charac- 
terised by  bare  and  rocky  slopes.  During  the  early  part 
of  the  day  our  road  lay  through  hills  clothed  with  oak, 
fir,  &c.,  whUe  the  oleander,  balsam,  and  other  shrubs 
were  clustered  in  the  sheltered  ravines. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  village  of  £aga- 
lameen,  where  Yahia  announced  that  we  were  to  remain 
until  nightfall,  that  we  might  pass  by  some  dreaded  Arabs 
in  the  dark.  Coffee  was  brought,  and  dinner  followed,  in 
the  shape  of  a  dish  called /atofe,  which  consists  of  boiled 
meat  swimming  in  oil.  After  our  repast  we  visited  the 
remains  of  the  palace  and  temple  of  the  mined  town  of 
Meidan  Abu,  and  saw  some  rude  troglodyte  dwell- 
ings on  the  side  of  the  mountain  to  the  westward. 
It  was  near  daybreak  before  Yahia  was  ready  to 
move  on,  when  we  ascended  a  hill  following  our 
guide,  and  entered  a  valley  running  to  tlie  northward. 
Some  questions  were  interchanged  here  with  some 
people  in  the  wood,  two  of  whom,  armed  with  long 
guns,  were  seated  on  the  side  of  the  hiU  over- 
hanging our  path.  A  Uttle  farther  on  five  more  Arabs 
appeared,  then  two  more  at  another  spot ;  and  Yahia 
did  not  fail  to  make  the  most  of  the  perils  we  had 
escaped,  and  (no  doubt  as  a  reward  for  his  own  good 
management)  he  and  his  companions  halted  to  examine 
our  travelling-bags  once  more.  Neither  Eobinson  nor 
I  had  the  least  idea  that  anything  had  escaped  their  rapa- 


SCENEET   EASTWARD  OF  THE  JORDAN.  41 

city  at  Om-el-Rassas ;  but  600  piastres,  the  wages  we  had     chap. 


III. 


paid  to  our  boy  Giblain,*  were  most  unexpectedly  ^ 
found  on  his  person,,  of  which,  in  addition  to  Mr. 
Robinson's  pocket  telescope,  the  two  Arabs  took  pos- 
session ;  and  we  then  moved  on  with  unabated  interest, 
notwithstanding  our  uncomfortable  situation,  througli 
more  lovely  scenery  than  can  be  imagined.  Around  us 
the  bright  blossom  of  the  apricot  trees,  now  in  full 
bloom,  came  out  in  beautiful  contrast  with  the  apple  of 
Sodom,  and  the  dark  foliage  of  the  evergreen  oak  ;  the 
various  feeders  of  the  Jordan  sparkled  and  were  par- 
tially hidden  by  the  bright  glossy  leaves  of  the  oleander  ; 
whilst  through  occasional  openings  in  the  foliage  we 
again  had  glimpses  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  River  Jordan, 
shut  in  to  the  westward  by  a  rugged  range  of  lofty 
mountains.  Beyond  we  caught  a  distant  view  of  Szalt — 
a  cheering  sight  to  us  under  present  circumstances. 

It  was  in  the  midst  of  this  exquisite  scenery  that, 
to  oiu:  surprise,  our  two  Arabs  sat  down  to  count  their 
booty  ;  and  as  the  money  was  in  small  pieces  of  mixed  ' 
metal,  this  became  a  very  tedious  operation.   They  were  p  . 
seated  on  the  ground  quite  absorbed  in  their  task,  their  master  the 

,  ,  two  Arabv, 

sabres  laid  on  one  side ;  and  I  pouited  out  to  my  com- 
panion, that  if  we  each  seized  one  of  the  fellows  by  the 
shoulders,  and  pulled  them  back  at  the  same  time,  they 
would  be  completely  in  our  power,  especially  as  we 
could  avail  ourselves  of  their  arms.  But  Mr.  Robinson 
felt  doubtful  of  success,  and,  to  my  great  mortification, 
the  opportunity  was  lost.  The  small  Turkish  pieces 
were  counted  at  length,  and  replaced  in  the  purses  of 

*  This  boy  had  remained,  being  afraid  to  undertake  the  propo<^ed  jour- 
ney to  Damascus  for  help. 


42  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    their  temporary  possessors ;  and  we  resumed  our  onward 
route,  which  soon  brought  us  within  sight  of  Szalt 


^^  Yahia  at  once  rode  forward,  to  give,  as  we  afterwards 
8^  ascertained,  his  own  version  of  our  affairs.  Left  to 
himself,  the  remaining  Arab  became  so  intolerably  inso- 
lent that  my  patience  gave  way,  and  seizing  a  stick,  I 
made  use  of  it  so  effectually  that  the  fellow  was  about 
to  make  his  escape,  when  I  took  Mr.  Bobinson's  gun — 
which,  by  Yahia's  desire,  had  been  loaded  the  pre\iou8 
morning  in  anticipation  of  an  attack — and  called  out, 
The  .Arab  j^  i]^^  ^ost  threatening  tone  '  Tal — tal  *  ('  Come  back'), 
prifoncr.  which,  thanks  to  the  long  fowling-piece,  he  did  at  a 
snail's  pace,  and  we  took  him  as  a  prisoner  into  Szalt 
Here  we  found  Yahia  in  the  public  room,  holding  forth 
to  the  people,  with  whom  he  seemed  to  be  on  the  best 
of  terms. 
Reception  Coffcc  being  brought,  as  usual,  our  case  was  formally 
*"  ^'"^'*  but  very  briefly  stated  in  the  Medhan's  court.  Yahia, 
nothing  daunted,  then  made  his  statement,  which  was 
to  the  effect  that  he  had  been  chosen  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  us  safely  to  Damascus ;  and  that  he  had  not 
robbed  us,  but  only  taken  our  money  in  order  to  secure 
it  for  us,  although  (as  he  seemed  to  imply)  I  had  no 
claim  to  such  kind  consideration,  having  presented  my 
pistol  at  him  at  one  time,  purposing  to  shoot  him. 
His  dogged  tone  and  manner  while  saying  this  were 
Our  case  altc^ethcr  different  from  the  subdued  account  given  by 
his  companion,  and  the  result  of  the  hearing  was  that 
our  money  was  to  be  restored,  and  that  both  Arabs  were 
to  be  detained  prisoners.  Yahia  expressed  much  indig- 
nation at  this  result,  which,  as  we  afterwards  found, 
he  had  but  little  reason  to  expect,  and  he  said,  when 
restoring  our  money,  that  he  would  be  revenged.    The 


VISIT  TO  SZALT  WITH  AN  BBOOBT.  43 

affair  thus  adjudicated  was  followed  by  a  substantial    chap. 
repast,  to  which,  to  our  great  surprise,  Yahia  (although  ^  ^ -.> 
still  a  prisoner)  was  invited.     But  this  was  going  rather  ^^T^  ^ 
too  far,  and  we  objected  most  decidedly  to  sit  down 
with  him,  and,  after  some  discussion  and  altercation,  we 
carried  our  point,  and  were  served  apart 

We  now  hoped  to  make  such  arrangements  as  would 
enable  us  to  accomplish  our  visit  to  Jerash,  to  which 
place  Hattib  was  to  have  taken  us.  After  many  diffi- 
culties we  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  strong  guard,  and 
left  Szalt  for  that  purpose.  Yahia  set  out  at  the  same  yahu 
time,  having  persuaded  the  authorities  to  give  him  a  ^^ 
memorandum  for  his  chief  Hattib,  to  the  effect  that  he 
had  conducted  us  thus  far  in  safety.  It  was  thus 
made  dear  to  us,  that  although  the  inhabitants  of 
Szalt  had  felt  obliged  to  afford  us  some  protection,  they 
had  no  intention  of  offending  the  powerful  Hattib ; 
and  as  his  surly  lieutenant  was  now  at  Uberty,  there 
was  good  reason  to  fear  some  hostile  proceedings  on 
his  part,  if  delay  on  our  side  should  give  him  sufficient 
time  to  mature  his  plans.  We  were  not,  therefore, 
free  from  evil  forebodings. 

Szalt  is,  of  itself,  far  from  being  without  interest.  Dewnp- 
From  the  hill  above  the  town  there  is  a  commanding  aiaUt! 
view  of  the  mountains,  particularly  of  those  westward 
towards  the  Jordan,  which  are  very  remarkable  in  out- 
line, and  extremely  interesting.  Mount  Pisgah  (or  Nebo) 
and  Jebel  Mousa  stand  out  ccmspicuously,  and  form  part 
of  this  extensive  view. 

On  quitting  Szalt  we  proceeded,  in  a  north-westerly 
direction,  through  a  mountainous  and  very  beautifu. 
country,  its  subordinate  hills  being  clothed  to  their 
summits  with  valonia,  oaks,  arbutus,  myrtle,  and  many 


44  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    other  graceful  shrubs.    We  passed  a  little  to  the  right 


lU. 


'  of  Nebi  Osha  or  Hausa  (the  'Tomb  of  Osha'),  and 
Osha.  °      visited  the  ruins  of  Ammon,  and  so  on  by  Jebel  Djelaab 
(probably  Eamoth  in  Gilead).*     We  remained  for  the 
night  in  the  stone-built  village  of  Jezaren. 

During  the  evening  we  unexpectedly  received  a  hint, 
to  be  cautious.  Two  strangers  arrived  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Jerash,  and  were,  like  ourselves,  guests 
in  the  public  room.  Among  the  tales  which,  as- 
usual,  went  round  after  coffee,  our  attention  was 
excited  by  hearing  that  some  Arabs  were  waiting  at 
Jerash,  to  attack  some  travellers  who  were  on  their 
way  to  see  the  ruins.  This  was  far  from  pleasant,  but 
^^^\  our  strong  escort  of  sixteen  armed  men  giving  us 
confidence,  we  went  on,  and  reached  Jerash  early  the 
following  afternoon,  and  at  once  set  to  work  to  examine 
these  most  interesting  remains. 

We  kept  moving  about  from  place  to  place,  and  I 
had  nearly  finished  my  examination,  especially  of  the 
eastern  side  of  the  ruins,  and  was  about  to  return  to  the 
escort,  when  I  perceived  the  point  of  a  lance,  with  its 
unmistakable  fringe  of  black  ostrich-feathers,  peeping 
about  the  buildings,  followed  by  a  second,  and  then  by  a 
third.  Beheving  that  there  was  little  cause  for  appre- 
hension, with  such  ample  protection  at  hand,  and  being 
quite  unencumbered,  I  hastened  through  the  debris, 
which  made  the  ground  so  broken  and  difficult  that  no 
horse  could  have  overtaken  me,  and  so  found  my  com- 
panion and  the  escort.  Our  party  at  once  came  forward, 
and  made  known  to  the  hostile  Arabs  that  we  were  under 
The  Beni-   their  protection.     A  long  parley  ensued,  which  ended 

•  Deut.  iv.  43. 


THE  RUINS  OP  JBRASH.  45 

by  the  withdrawal  of  the  Beni-Szacher  section  of  the  chap. 

.          .  Ill 

Aniza  to  some  little  distance,  and  our  people,  having  > — t-* — - 


thus  shown  a  bold  front,  urged  us  to  hasten  our  depar- 
ture as  much  as  possible.  Under  different  circumstances 
this  would  have  been  a  grievous  disappointment.  But, 
fortunately,  we  had  already  examined,  with  considerable 
care,  almost  every  part  .of  the  ruins  of  Jerash  (once 
Gerasa). 

A  detailed  description  of  these  ruins  would  demand  Ruins  of 
more  space  than  I  can  devote  to  it,  but  their  site  is  too 
interesting  to  be  quite  passed  over.  They  occupy  an 
elevated  plain  on  the  sides  of  Kerouan,  or  Sell- Jerash, 
and  have  a  circumference  of  more  than  four  miles. 
The  most .  interesting  portions  of  these  remains  extend 
from  north  to  south,  parallel  to  the  right  bank  of  the 
Kerouan,  or  Seil-Jerash.  They  consist  of  a  bridge,  two 
great  temples,  one  of  which  almost  rivals  that  of  the 
Sun  at  Palmyra;  a  spacious  semicircular  colonnade, 
with  the  remains  of  two  rows  of  columns,  evidently 
once  a  street,  with  another  crossing  it  at  right-angles ; 
an  aqueduct,  a  naumakia,*  a  palace,  and  two  theatres. 
The  higher  parts  of  the  ground  on  each  side  are  occu- 
pied by  the  remains  of  private  dwellings,  and  beyond 
these,  towards  the  north-west,  there  is  an  extensive 
necropolis,  with  numerous  finely-executed  sarcophagi ; 
indeed,  the  coup  cCceil  of  Jerash,  as  seen  from  the  high  view  of 
ground  on  its  eastern  side,  is  one  of  the  most  striking  '^®"»^- 
that  can  be  imagined. 

Having  gratified  our  anxious  followers  by  turning 
our  backs  on  this  ancient  city,  and  the  Beni-Szachers  at 
the  same  time,  we  crossed  the  hills  to  the  clay-built 

*  Race  for  aquatic  sports. 


46  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    village  of  Souf.     Here  we  were  well  received  at  first, 

III. 
^ — ^1^  but  all  was  changed  when  the  people  discovered  that 

Sou^  ^  we  were  almost  without  the  means  of  satisfying  their 
expectations.  It  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  thfll 
we  could  obtain  a  guard  of  four  men,  with  which  we 
quitted  this  inhospitable  village  in  the  morning.  Our 
previous  escort  lefl  for  Szalt  at  the  same  time.  Taking 
the  ruins  and  excavations  of  Fokkera  as  we  proceeded, 
four  hours  through  parklike  scenery  brought  us  to 

Tiim».  Tibne,  a  town  of  some  500  houses,  where,  instead  of 
the  sordid  eitactions  we  had  lately  experienced,  a 
friendly  reception  awaited  us ;  and,  after  a  very  ac- 
ceptable meal,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  Lake 
Tiberias  before  us,  still  as  a  wide-spread  mirror  sur- 
rounded by  hills. 

A  collector  of  taxes  was  making  his  periodical  vbit  to 
Tiberias,  and  from  him  we  expected  to  be  able  to  obtain 
a  supply  of  money,  as  well  as  to  receive  hospitality ; 
but  we  were  mistaken,  and  had  of  necessity  to  ccmtinue 
our  journey  with  an  almost  empty  purse. 

Form.  A  ride  through  picturesque  hills  brought  us  the  next 

evening  to  Forra,  or  Fokkera,  which  is  a  somewhat  sin- 
gular place,  the  dwellings  being  partly  in  caves,  and 
the  rest  consisting  of  tents.  We  were  received  rather 
unwillingly  by  the  Sheikh,  who  occupied  one  of  the 
former.  It  was  spacious,  and  divided  into  two  apart- 
ments by  a  row  of  huge  earthen  jars  containing  flour 
and  grain.  The  inner  part  was  aUotted  to  the  females, 
and  the  horses  occupied  a  portion  of  the  outer  division. 
Stories,  as  usual,  whiled  away  the  time  in  the  evening, 

story  of     ^^6  ^f  which  conccmed  ourselves.    It  was  the  story  of 

^'^^      Hattib,  which,  to  our  surprise,  we  found  had  preceded 


THE  RUINED  CEMETEBIES  OF  OMKftS.  47 

US.     As  I  write,  the  scene  in  the  cave  rises  up  before    chap. 

Ill 
me  again.     The  figure  of  one  old  woman  especially 

stands  out,  as,  with  her  hands  on  her  sides,  and  literally 
splitting  with  laughter,  she  enjoyed  the  joke,  ejacula- 
ting ^Hattib — HattibP  till  she  could  scarcely  stand. 
They  little  imagined  that  the  actors  in  this  tale  were 
then  listening  to  all  the  merriment  their  misfortunes 
afibrded.  Other  tales  and  meagre  viands,  and  some 
arrangements  for  the  following  day,  closed  our  evemng 
in  the  cave. 

The  difficulties  which  occur,  even  under  ordinary 
circumstances,  in  desert  travelling,  became  almost 
insiumountable  next  morning ;  but  by  leaving  a  cloak 
in  deposit  they  were  at  length  overcome,  and  a 
guide  being  allotted  to  us,  we  set  out  to  visit  the 
neighbouring  ruins  of  Omkes  Gadara.  The  scenery 
was  rich  and  varied.  We  rode  through  a  country 
covered  with  sycamores,  acacias,  and  evergreen  oaks — 
having  on  one  side  the  village  of  Daboo,  whose  in-  ^^^ 
habitants  have  a  very  bad  name.  We  now  b^an  to 
ascend  the  adjoining  mountain,  and  arrived  shortly 
afterwards  at  the  cemeteries  of  Omkes.  Here  we  OmUt 
found  many  sepulchres,  and  scattered  remains  of  sar- 
cophagi— ^both  of  exquisite  workmanship.  The  former, 
in  addition  to  their  striking  elevation,  had  marble  doors, 
which  moved  with  £eicility  on  a  pivot  of  the  same 
material,  and  were  ornamented  on  the  &Lce  with  figures 
in  reUef.  In  some  instances  the  doors  were  still  perfect, 
and  showed  knockers  also  in  relief.  Some  of  the  sar- 
a)phagi,  which  time  has  laid  bare,  seemed  as  fresh  as  if 
they  had  recently  come  out  of  the  sculptor's  hands. 
On   one   of  these  were  three  figures,   finished  with 


num. 


s 


48  NARRATIVE   OF  THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  exquisite  taste,  and  each  holding  part  of  a  rich  wreath 
^-  , '-'  of  flowers,  and  apparently  dancing.  In  addition  to 
these  monuments,  and  the  remains  of  dwellings,  ancient 
Gadara  has  two  theatres,  two  temples,  a  colonnade, 
portions  of  an  aqueduct,  and  other  ruins  on  the  fece 
of  the  hill. 

On  returning  to  Forra,  the  difficulty  of  satisfying  a 
grasping  host  was  at  length  overcome  with  the  re- 
maining contents  of  our  purse,  and  by  the  sacrifice  of 
the  cloak,  which  was  taken  rather  than  given  by  way  of 
remuneration  ;  and  in  the  afternoon  our  joint  eventful 
Part  from  joumcy  was  brouglit  to  an  end,  for  here  Mr.  Robinson 
son.  and  I  parted     He  had  found  a  safe  opportunity  of 

reaching  Damascus,  where  he  had  funds,  whilst  I  looked 
forward  to  obtaining  some  before  long  elsewhere. 
This  journey,  so  full  of  exciting  interest,  had  given 
rise  to  conflicting  feeUngs  in  my  mind  towards  my 
companion.  I  had  been  deeply  disappointed  when  I 
did  not  find  myself  seconded  in  my  impulse  to  seize 
the  two  Arabs  while  in  the  act  of  counting  our  money. 
But,  as  I  descended  the  mountain  alone,  I  began  to 
view  this,  and  other  occurrences  in  which  we  had  been 
mutually  engaged,  in  a  different  light ;  and  considering 
that  my  own  attempts  to  escape,  or  to  visit  the  robbers 
with  the  punishment  they  deserved,  might,  and  pro- 
bably would,  have  cost  my  life,  it  was  with  a  grateful 
recognition  of  Mr.  Eobinson's  superior  prudence  that 
I  proceeded  on  my  way. 

With  a  part  of  Lake  Tiberias  and  the  mountains 
near  Jerusalem  in  view,  a  somewhat  steep  descent, 
through  acacias  and  oaks,  brought  me  to  the  banks  of 
the  Hieromax,  thickly  clothed  with  oleanders  ;  a  little 


JOURNEY  FBOM  TIBERIAS  TO  DAMASCUS.  49 

farther  on,  that  portion  of  the  Jordan  came  in  siglit    chap. 

Ill 
which   is  so  mysteriously  lost  in  the  Dead  Sea.     I  - — r-^ 

crossed  this   stream — the  Havilah   of  the  Jews,  and 

perhaps  the  most  remarkable  river  in  the  world  ;  and 

two  hours  brought  me  to  the  warm  springs  of  Tiberias, 

which  are  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  distance  fix)m 

the  town. 

Here  I  found  an  American  Israelite,  a  Mr.  Samson, 

who,  on  hearing  that  I  was  without  money,  kindly 

supplied  my  immediate  wants.   From  Tiberias  I  visited 

every  place  of  interest  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  then 

made  my  way,  by  Mounts  Tabor  and  Carmel,  to  Acre. 

Here  my  fimds  were  renewed,  and  I  continued  my 

journey  without  further    adventure,  by  Saphet,   the 

Upper  Jordan,  and  Banias,  to  Damascus,  where,  as  will 

be  seen  in  the  succeeding  chapter,  a  change  of  plans 

became  unavoidable. 


E 


50 


NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CHAP. 
IV. 

^- 1 ' 

Dec.  10, 
1830. 

Preparing 
for  the 
desert 
journey. 


Join  thd 
caimvan. 


JOUKNET  THROUGH  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT  FROM  DAMASCUS  TO  EL- 
KAIM,  AND  PREPARATION  OF  THE  RAFT  TO  DESCEND  THE  BITEB 
EUPHRATES   FROM   ANNA. 

Owing  to  the  kindness  of  M.  Baudin,  a  trustworthy 
interpreter  was  engaged,  and  a  tent  and  other  neces- 
saries provided ;  and  1  was  just  on  the  point  of  leaving 
Damascus  with  my  dragoman  (Halil,  a  ren^ade  Chris- 
tian)  and    his    slave-boy,   a    child  eight    years    old, 
when  intelligence  reached  me  which  caused  a  change 
of  plan  on  my  part.     An  old  Arab,  who   had  just 
arrived  with  a  caravan,  brought  word  that  a  wounded 
English  traveller  was  waiting  at  Tadmor  for  an  op- 
portunity of  reaching  Damascus.     M.  Baudin  at  once 
despatched  a  trusty  messenger,  with  letters   both   in 
French  and  English,  to  the  supposed  Frank,  assuring  him 
that  the  bearer  would  conduct  him  safely,  and  I  pro- 
posed so  to  change  my  line  of  route  as  to  enable  me  to 
find  and  succour  this  wounded  traveller.    Consequently, 
I  joined  our  little  camp  outside  the  gate  leading  to 
Palmyra,  where  I  found  several  individuals  going  with 
merchandise   to  Bagdad  and  Basrah ;   one  of  whom 
was  provided  with  the  comparative  luxury  of  a  horse, 
notwithstanding  the  difficulty  of  carrying  provender. 
My  tent  was  soon  added  to  those  already  pitched,  and 
there  I  passed  my  first  night,  but  not  in  sleep  ;  for  my 


THK  DESERT  JOUBNET  COlflCEKCED.  51 

mind  was  ftill  of  absorbing  tlioughts  of  the  coming    chap. 
desert  journey,  and  of  the  arrangements  connected  with  "^  ' '— 
the  descent  of  the  River  Euphrates. 

Long  before  daybreak  our  camp  was  the  scene  of  i>©c  ii. 
bustling  activity ;  the  tents  were  struck,  and  packed  ;  Fi«t'day 
the  camels  made  to  lie  down  to  receive  their  burdens,  desert 
to  wliich  their  moanings  (as  one  package  was  added  to  '^"^^^' 
another)  showed  strong  objections  on  the  part  of  these 
patient  creatures.      Their  loads  secured,   they  were 
made   to   rise  in  succession  to   commence  the  day's 
journey.     Our  leader  and  guide  was   a  middle-aged 
Arab,  named  Abdallah,  who  had  a  younger  man  as 
assistant,  also  in  some  authority.     These  led  the  way, 
riding  side  by  side  on  the  ^  delul,'  or  liglit  camel ;  and 
they  were  followed  by  a  donkey,  whose  pace  regulated 
that  of  the  camels  behind  him,  which  are  allowed  to 
spread  out  as  they  advance,  for  the  sake  of  feeding 
on   the   scanty  grass,  camel-thorn,   and   other  desert 
shrubs. 

We  had  not  yet  fairly  entered  the  desert,  for  we  Onr  first 
passed  two  villages  during  the  day,  and  eight  hours  of  me^t"*^ 
constant  motion  brought  us  to  our  first  encampment. 
Here  the  camels  were  made  to  lie  down,  to  be  re- 
lieved of  their  loads,  which  were  placed  in  convenient 
order  for  reloading  in  the  morning,  and  the  animals 
turned  out.  After  being  allowed  to  browse  for  two  or 
three  hours,  a  ball  of  cotton-seeds  was  forced  down  the 
throat  of  each,  and  they  were  then  all  made  to  lie 
down  in  a  circle,  round  the  tents  and  merchandise. 
Their  animals  thus  cared  for,  the  Arabs  no  longer 
delayed  their  own  supper,  always  the  principal  meal  of 
the  day  with  them. 


i 


52  KAREATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.         This  usually  consists,  as  it  did  in  this  case,  of  thin 
cakes  of  bread,  and  a  pilau  of  'bourgul/   or  boiled 


cooke^of  wheat,  mixed  with  some  butter  or  oil.     A  few  dates 
the  Arabs.  ^^^  ^^  ample  supply  of  water  completed  the  meal, 

and  sleep  was  indulged  in  almost  immediately  after- 
wards. 

Our  tents  were  pitched  at  some  little  distance  on  one 

side  of  our  intended  route,  as  being  less  likely  to  be 

seen ;  and  as  we  were  comparatively  safe  from  all  danger 

while  still  so  near  Damascus,  fires  were  lighted,  which 

Directed     is  HOt  douc  whcu  there  is  any  cause  for  uneasiness.    It 

bei^         was  decided  by  the  Arabs  that  I  was  to  play  the  part 

""  *'        of  a  deaf-and-dumb  man,  in  case  of  our  meeting  the 

Aniza   or   any  other  hostile  tribe,  and  this  rSle  was 

strongly  impressed  upon  me.     Early  the  next  morning 

I  managed  to  snatch  a  hasty  breakfast,  while  the  Arabs 

were  striking  and  packing  my  tent.   We  next  proceeded 

in   an   ESE.    direction,  having   some   high   hills  and 

distant  mountains  in  sight  to  the  westward. 

For  the  first  hour  we  passed  through  fields,  but  after 
that  found  ourselves  entering  the  desert,  where  some 
wild-boars  crossed  our  path  during  the  day.  At  its  close, 
we  halted  near  the  small  clay-built  town  of  Jeriateen. 
We  were  told  to  husband  our  supply  of  water  (carried 
of  course  in  large  skins),  as  five  days  must  elapse  before 
any  more  could  be  obtained.  Next  day,  the  usual 
bustling  confusion  of  loading  over,  we  proceeded  along 
a  dead  level,  with  a  range  of  elevated  hills  on  each 
Bfsert  gi^e^  Our  camcls,  as  they  advanced,  turned  their  long 
necks  from  side  to  side,  to  pick  up  either  the  small 
thorny  shrub  called  *natour,'  or  the  soap-plant,  the 
*odoor ; '  they  also  occasionally  found  the  '  rot^ '  or  '  ro- 
toga,'  which  is  eaten  by  them  with  avidity. 


THIRD  DAT  m  THE  DESERT.  53 

Soon  after  four  o'clock  we  quitted  this  monotonous  chap. 
plain,  and,  going  a  little  to  the  right,  entered  a  valley  — /---^ 
running  towards  the  ESK  Here  we  were  less  ex- 
posed tlian  on  the  open  caravan  line,  and  we  pitched 
our  tents,  tiuned  the  camels  out  to  feed,  and  prepared 
supper— the  Arabs  lighting  fires,  and  baking  their  thin 
cakes  of  bread,  as  u^uaL 

Notwithstanding  a  thick  fog,  we  resumed  our  journey  End  of 
early  the  next  morning,  and  found  the  ground  quite  march,  ^  * 
damp,  owing  to  a  heavy  dew.  Ee-entering  the  valley  ^** 
plain,  which  we  had  quitted  on  the  previous  afternoon, 
we  proceeded  nearly  due  east,  over  a  flat  surface  some 
five  miles  broad,  bounded  by  a  range  of  mountains  on 
either  hand.  We  were  told  that  five  days  must  atiU 
elapse  before  any  supply  of  water  could  be  obtained. 
The  scenery  was  of  the  same  monotonous  character  as 
that  of  the  previous  day,  until  late  in  the  afternoon, 
when  we  came  in  sight  of  a  remarkable  double-topped 
mountain  which  rose  up  in  front  of  us,  apparently  bar- 
ring our  ftirther  progress.  It  was,  however,  more 
distant  than  could  have  been  supposed,  and  it  was 
sunset  before  we  reached  it,  when,  turning  to  the 
south-east,  we  entered  a  narrow  valley  at  its  base,  in 
which  our  little  camp  was  quite  concealed  fix>m  obser- 
vation from  the  adjoining  plain. 

During  the  day,  I  had  endeavoured  to  beguile  the 
time  by  walking,  and  often  strayed  to  some  little  dis- 
tance from  our  party,  which  gave  rise  on  one  occasion 
to  a  trick  on  the  part  of  the  Arabs,  who  are  particularly 
fond  of  jokes,  which  was  carried  out  most  successfully 
against  myself  Two  Arabs  almost  naked,  and  ap-  feign  to 
parently  much  excited,  rushed  wildly  towards  me  from  enenues. 


54  ^'AKRAT1VE  OF   THB   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  beliind  a  hill,  brandishing  a  stick,  and  yelling  most  voci- 
— r- — '  ferously .  Taken  completely  by  surprise,  and  being  quite 
unarmed,  I  scoured  across  the  hill,  closely  followed  by 
my  supposed  enemies ;  and  on  approaching  the  caravan, 
two  of  our  people  darted  forward  with  drawn  swords, 
as  if  to  give  me  protection,  and  intercept  my  pursuers ; 
they  still  endeavoured  to  get  at  me  by  making  a  round, 
but  being  foiled,  their  trick  and  disguise  came  to  an 
end,  though  the  joke  continued  to  be  heartily  enjoyed 
by  the  whole  party  for  some  time. 
Kiuiof  Our  course   the   following  day  was  still  NE.,  and 

day's  subsequently  ESE.  ;  but  the  contour  of  the  moun- 
tain-chains afforded  more  variety  of  scenery  thau 
on  the  previous  days,  while  we  also  found  a  greater 
abundance  of  small  desert  shrubs,  among  which  the 
'  rote-de-gcmel,'  with  its  soft  green  thorn,  prepon- 
derated. 

Our  supply  of  water  was  by  this  time  almost  ex- 
hausted, so  that  the  mere  humid  appearance  of  the 
ground  at  one  spot  caused  unusual  excitement  Some 
of  our  Aitibs  rushed  forward,  and  discovered  a  small 
quantity  of  water  in  the  crannies  of  the  rocks  ;  a  little 
farther  on  we  came  upon  quite  a  small  pool,  which, 
though  neither  pure  nor  good,  was  hailed  with  delight 
The  Arabs  rushed  into  the  water,  such  as  it  was,  and 
commenced  drinking,  filling  their  skins,  and  giving 
it  to  their  animals  without  a  moment's  delay,  and 
with  all  the  bustling  scramble  incidental  to  securing 
a  supply  for  five  days  more.  This  over,  we  jour- 
neyed on  until  dark,  and  then  encamped  for  the 
nighit 

A  sight  of  the  hilk  behind  Palmyra  having  given 


ATTEMPT  TO  BEACH  PALMYKA  FRUSTRATED,  &5 

me  the  hope    of  reachmg  that  place   next    day,  I    chap. 

TV 

invited  our  leader  (Abdallah)  to  sup  with  me,  in  — /-^ 
order  to  make  all  arrangements  for  being  conducted 
thither  in  the  morning.  But  a  dense  fog  delayed 
us  until  eleven  o'clock,  when  we  moved  on  over 
a  slightly  undulating  plain  tolerably  well  covered 
with  long  grass,  in  addition  to  the  usual  desert 
shrubs. 

The  mountains  were  lowest  towards  the  NE.,  and  Mounuins 

nair 

advancing   in   that   direction  we  lost  oiu*   way,   and  P^Umyra. 
had  to  make  zigzag  traverses  to  find  it  again  ;  diuring 
which  we  came  upon  some  puddles  of  rain-water,  on 
which  oiu:  men  and  animals  rushed  with  such  avidity, 
that  every  drop  was  drained  from  the  moist  day.    Our 
skins  thus  partially  refilled,  we  continued  our  journey, 
and  were  ready  to  resume  oiu:  previous  line  of  route  in 
the  morning ;  whilst  I  was  to  make  a  round  by  Tadmor, 
which  would  have  occupied  about  ten  hours,  escorted 
by  Abdallah's  nephew.     Deluls,  or  swift  camels,  were  Arrange-, 
provided  for  both  of  us,  when  another  delay  arose :  S!^ 
the  merchant's  horse  had  strayed,  and  the  morning    *^™y^ 
was  spent  by  our  whole  party,  both  mounted  and  on 
foot,  in  searching  for  him.     The  animal  was  at  length 
recovered,   and  I  looked  forward  to   a  start   in   the 
afternoon;  but  I  was  again  disappointed,   and  had 
to  move  on  with  the  whole  caravan  over  a  complete 
desert  of  indurated  sand  and  gravel,  mixed  with  hard 
black  stones. 

Here  and  there,  rushes  and  scanty  shrubs  showed  Appear- 

RDce  of  th* 

where  water  had  been,  although,  to  our  disappointment,  desert 
tlie  ground  was  now  dry.     A  general  consultation 
ensued,  the  great  object  of  which  was  to  decide  where 


56  NAfiBATlVJS  OF  THE   EUPUBATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.    Water  would  most  probably  be  met  with  :   everyone 

' — r^ — '  gave  a  different  opinion,  and,  in  the  general  anxiety  on 

this  subject,  Tadmor  fell  to  the  ground  for  the  present 

An  hour  s  traveUing  over   a   siurface  of  hard  baked 

sand  and  black  stones  brought  us  to  the  bed  of  a  stream, 

now  perfectly  dry ;  and  as  danger  from  hostile  Arabs 

was  apprehended,  we  had  to  pass  the  night  without 

lights  or  fires. 

Dec.  18,         The  hills  behind  Palmyra  were  distinctly  visible  at 

eighth  day.  g^^gg  j^g^j  momiug,  and  something  like  a  shadow 

Paim>Ta"  of  the  Hiins  was  discernible.     Abdallah  continued  to 

hold  out  hopes  of  conducting  me  to  them  ;  but  as  we 

reached  the  expected  watering-place  early  in  the  day, 

our  caravan  had  to  halt,  for  the  all-important  purpose 

of  securing  a  supply  of  the  precious  fluid,  and  we 

encamped  in  a  circle  round  one  of  the  ancient  welk 

Well  in      ^^  ^^  cased  with  stone,  and  being  very  deep,  the 

the  desert,  operation  of  drawing  water  was  tedious ;  for  we  had 

but  one  leather  bucket,   which  had  to  be  let   down 

and  drawn  up,  until  all  the  water-skins  were  filled ;  and 

when  this  operation  was  completed,  the  camels  had  to 

be  supphed  not  only  with  a  copious  draught,  but  also 

with  a  sufficient  reserve  to  enable  them  to  continue 

their  journey.      The  second  or  reserve  stomach  with 

wliich  Nature  has  provided  this  Ship  of  the  Desert, 

contains,  when  filled,  a  sufficient  supply  of  water  for 

at  least  six  days  ;  in  some  instances  it  has  been  known 

to  last  for  even  nine  days. 

Tenth  day,       This  busy  Operation  of  watering  left  us  but  little  time 

^^'  ^^'      before  evening  closed  in  ;  but  we  resumed  our  journey 

early  on  the  following  mornings  and  moved  forward  in 

the  usual  order,  our  camels  feeding  leisurely  as  they 


APPREHENSION  OF  DANGER.  57 

passed  along.    Early  in  the  day  we  came  upon  some    chap, 
fresh  dung,  the  sight  of  which  caused  an  order  to  halt ; 


and  an  Arab  council  of  war  was  held,  the  result  of  ^^^ 
which  was  the  despatch  of  three  of  the  party  in  ^^^' 
different  directions,  armed  with  matchlocks.  Nothing 
whatever  could  be  seen,  and  we  resumed  our  journey, 
with  the  belief  that  the  supposed  enemy  had  left  the 
place.  About  ten  o'clock  we  halted  in  a  secluded 
bend  of  the  hills,  and  avoiding  fires,  lest  the  dreaded 
Aniza  should  find  us  out,  I  was  again  reminded  that, 
in  case  of  their  appearance,  I  was  to  personate  one 
deaf  and  dumb. 

A  cold  supper  was,  however,  our  only  privation, 
and  we  started  as  usual  in  the  morning,  keeping 
parallel  to  the  mountain  range  on  the  western  side  of 
the  valley.  At  this  point  I  again  attempted  to  reach 
Tadmor,  or  at  least  to  send  a  messenger  thither,  but 
all  my  efforts  were  fruitless.  Abdallah,  probably  to 
get  rid  of  my  importunities,  greatly  increased  his 
demands :  no  messenger  could  be  procured,  and  I 
began  to  suspect  that  our  leader's  real  objection  to 
earn  a  good  reward  arose  from  his  excessive  appre- 
hension of  danger.  It  was  not,  however,  until  the 
outline  of  the  mountain  range  showed  that  we  had 
gone  quite  beyond  Palmyra,  that  I  gave  up  the  hope 
of  accomplishing  my  visit;  then,  indeed,  I  had  to 
look  forward  to  communication  with  the  wounded 
traveller  from  Hit  or  Anna.* 

The  progress  of  our  caravan  was  suddenly  inter- 

*  Later,  I  ascertained  that  this  account  of  a  wounded  Frank  at  Pal- 
myra was  a  mistake,  and  that  Messrs.  Taylor,  Bowater,  and  Aspinall 
had  been  murdered  on  their  way  to  Mosul. 


58  NARRATlVfi  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  BXPEDITIOy. 

CHAP,     ruptcd,  during  the  afternoon,  by  the  cry  of  '  Moie — 
. — r^ — '  moie ! '     Every   eye  was  turned  eagerly  towards  the 
expected  water,  and  all   hurried   onwards  to  secure 
some  part  of  the  supply,  which,  to  our  great  disap- 
pointment, turned  out  to  be  nothing  more  than  some 
muddy  pools  between  the  crevices  of  the  rocks. 
The  Arabs       WhcH  rcsumiug  our  journey  early  the  next  morning, 
BunTs  h  ^   I  observed  that  our  leading  Arabs  took  their  direction 
^^^^'         at  first  from  the  sun's  rising,  and  afterwards  followed 
the  sun's  path,  continuing  to  do  so  for  some  time — 
our  course   thus   making  quite  a  curve.     Later   the 
beaten   path    became    oiu*  guide,   and  was   followed 
mitil  we  reached  the  Derb  Sultan,  or  Imperial  road, 
which   led   from  Palmyra  to  the   summer  palace  of 
Zenobiii's    Zcuobia,  OH  tlic  bauks  of  the  Euphrates.     Here  the 
pabTe!^      hue  of  couutry  became  less  desert:  to  the  west  we 
had  the  distant  and  lofty  chain  of  Palmyra,  and  to  the 
east  an  apparently  boundless  plain,  broken  only  by 
three  rather  remarkable  conical  hills,  which  stood  out 
on  the  distant  eastern  horizon.     Our  Arabs,  no  longer 
^p^Ij         anticipating  danger,  were  in  liigh  spirits,  and  full  of 
pranks.       good-humoured  tricks  and  fun  with  each  other — firing  a 
pistol,  to  fi'ighten  some  pretended  fugitive,  being  one  of 
their  favourite  devices.    Li  a  desert  journey  the  veriest 
trifles  acquire  some  importance,  and  it  was  not,  there- 
fore, without  interest  that  we  at  one  time  watched  some 
gulls,  apparently  winging  their  flight  towards  the  Me- 
diterranean, and  at  others  saw  some  crows,  numerous 
larks,  and  once  a  solitary  gazelle. 
Seven  HiUs      Early  in  the  afternoon,  the  beaten  path  brought  us 
nud^iy.      to  thc  Scvcu  Ilills,  wliicli  are  chiefly  remarkable  as 
being  midway  to  Bagdad,  and  consequently  told  us  that 


i 


A  SICK  CAMEL  KILLED  AND  BATSV.  59 

more  thau  half  our  journey  across  Arabia  was  already     chap. 

IV 

completed.     Having  attended  to  our  supply  of  water,  - — r-' — - 


we  continued  our  journey.  The  mountains  towards  the 
west  were  still  tolerably  distinct,  but  the  horizon  alone 
bounded  our  view  towards  the  east  Litour  and  other  DMert 
healthy  shrubs  were  plentiful,  mixed  with  a  fair  propor-  ■*^*^' 
tion  of  grass,  which  was  saturated  by  a  recent  fall  of  rain. 
This  appearance  of  moisture  was  most  cheering  to  the 
Arabsi  and  their  spirits  led  them  to  indulge  in  all  kinds 
o(  pranks,  in  some  of  which  the  merchant  took  a  part, 
until  our  halt  put  a  stop  to  their  hilarity. 

But  here  a  fresh  incident  arose,  to  relieve  the 
monotony  of  the  journey. '  One  of  the  camels  being 
considered  hopelessly  ill,  the  Arabs — in  great  delight  a  sick 
at  the  prospect  of  a  feast — ^proceeded  to  kill  and  cut  killed  and 
him  up  for  the  evening  meal.  Their  preparations  for 
die  night  are  invariably  very  sunple.  They  place  a 
double  row  of  bales  of  merchandise,  in  the  form  of  a 
crescent,  on  the  side  of  their  encampment  towards  the 
wind,  and  squatting  round  a  bright  fire  of  brushwood 
and  camel's-dung,  prepare  their  evening  meal  of  thin 
cakes  of  bread  (freshly  baked  in  the  ashes),  dates, 
«aid  camel's-milk,  concluding  with  a  small  cup  of 
coffee.  This  was  their  daily  fare  ;  but  on  the  present 
occasion,  there  was  the  very  acceptable  addition  of 
the  fieshly-killed  broiled  flesh  of  the  sick  camel. 

Next  day  we  crossed  a  track  so  perfectly  level  that  Dec.  24. 
we  might  for  some  time  have  fancied  ourselves  at  sea  ;  day. 
in  the  west  alone  distant  highlands  could  be  faintly 
discerned.     As  we  advanced,  we  sighted  some  chalk  chaikhiiis 

.    ,        .  ,  ,  on  the 

hills,  and  learnt,  to   our  great  satistjictioii,  that  they  Euphratea. 
were  on  the  left  bunk  of  the  Euphrates.     We  crossed 


60  NARRATIVB  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXFEDITIOK. 

CHAP,    the  rocky  bed  of  a  river,  which,  though  nearly  dry, 
^- — ^ — '  aflTorded  us  a  partial  supply  of  water. 


Our  people  had  latterly  ceased  to  think  of  danger, 
and  were  therefore  but  ill-prepared  for  hostilities,  when 

Expect«i  tlie  merchant  came  riding  hastily  back  to  Abdallah,  to 
tell  him  that  enemies  were  to  be  apprehended.  Every 
individual  at  once  seized  his  matchlock,  and  prepared 
to  meet  the  foe.  Following  this  example,  I  alighted 
from  my  camel  gun-in-hand,  and  joined  the  party,  when 
I  learnt  that  all  this  commotion  had  been  caused  by 
the  appearance  of  two  Arabs.  No  more  were  seen, 
and  things  gradually  subsided  into  their  usual  course, 

Fires  dis-    and  wc   cucampcd  at  night  at  a   Uttle    distance  off 

DA  1180(1 

with  at       the   direct  line,   and   took   the   precaution   of  doing 

"'^  ^        without  light  or  fire. 

We  were  on  the  move  before  sunrise  the  next 
morning,  and  as  a  matter  of  prudence,  as  well  as  on 
account  of  Abdallah's  great  anxiety,  we  took  a  more 
westerly  direction,  so  as  to  come  upon  the  river  at 
a  point  higher  up  than  had  been  originally  intended. 
Towards  midday,  we  passed  along  a  chain  of  hills,  and 
advancing,  with  the  great  river  occasionally  in  sight, 

Dec.  26,      we   eventually    encamped    about  an   hour  s    journey 

day.  short  of  its   banks.     We    had  all  but   attained  the 

principal  object  of  our  journey,  and  I  urged  an  im- 
mediate advance;  but  was  met,  as  usual,  by  difficulties 
and  allegations  of  danger  from  Abdallali,  and  my  only 
resource  was  patience  under  this  disappointment,  and 
a  night  spent  in  watching  for  the  daylight.  It  came 
at  last,  and  with  it  our  caravan  was  early  on  the  move. 
For  a  time  we  met  low  sandy  hills,  covered  with  a 
peculiar  shrub  resembling   fennel ;    we   next  crossed 


FIBST  SIGHT  OF  THE  GREAT  RIVEB.  61 

stony  beds   of  streams  which   were  then   dry,   and     chap. 
reached  the  right  bank  of  the  Euphrates  about  ten   » — r^ — ^ 
o'clock,  passing  close  to  a  flat-topped  hill  surmounted  Euphrates 
by  the  tower  of  El-Kaim.     Shortly  afterwards  we  saw  "  '^^^ 
the  great  river  itself,  spreading  out  its  waters  at  El- 
Werdi,*  a  spot  afterwards  so  memorable  to  the  Ex- 
pedition. 

We  turned  to  the  east,  and  followed  the  caravan  Halt  near 
route  from  bend  to  bend  of  the  river  until  sunset,  pteiti". 
when  we  pitched  our  tents  at  the  foot  of  some  low 
hills  overhanging  its  right  bank.     During  supper  my 
attention  was  attracted  by  a  singularly  dull  creaking 
sound,  accompanied  by  that  of  falling  water,  mingled 
with  the  occasional  wild  roaring  of  Uons  from  a  different 
quarter.     Anxious   to   ascertain   the    cause    of  these 
noises,  I  tried  to  persuade  Abdallah  to  accompany  me 
to  the  river,  which — ^after  much  hesitation,  on   ac- 
count of  the  hons — he  consented  to  do.     We  walked  ^ft^k  to 
through  copse-wood  for  about  a  mile,  and  then  dis-  ^*^J^.® 
covered — not  a  cataract,  nor  even  a  waterfall — ^but  ''^®^^- 
some  machinery  by  which  water  is  raised  for  purposes 
of  irrigation,  in  the  simplest  manner  possible,  the  river- 
water  itself  being  so  turned  to  account  as  to  give  the 
requisite  power.     This  is  managed  by  means  of  a  light 
and    graceftil    aqueduct,  resting   on   pointed  arches, 
having  at  its   extremity  a   waterwheel   of  some  50 
feet  in  diameter,  to  which  the  current  gives  a  rotatory 
motion,  as  well  as  the  necessary  power,  by  means  of  a 
simple  contrivance,  which  raises  the  water  to  supply 
the  aqueduct. 

*  At  this  place  the  two  steamers  eDCOuntered  a  fearful  hurricane,  which 
carried  one  of  them  to  the  bottom ;  and  here  also  the  Emperor  Julian 
loet  1,100  yessels  belonging  to  his  great  expedition  to  Babylonia. 


64  KARRATIYE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION". 

CHAP,    through  the  deserts  of  Egypt  and  Nubia,  it  was  de- 

IV 

' — r-l —  cidedly  agreeable.     The  deep  sand  met  with  in  those 
parts  of  Africa  is  replaced,  in  Arabian  travelling,  by  a 
level   track,   over  either  a  hard  pebbly  surface,  or 
scanty  grass,  intermixed  with  various  desert  shrubs — 
such  as  the  *odoor'  (Salsola  ^aZz),  a  low-growing  yellow 
plant,  without  either  thorns  or  leaves,  from  which  soap 
is  made ;  the  '  htour,'  a  thorny  plant,  which  only  reaches 
and  its       the  height  of  8  or  10  inches  ;  also  the  *  rot^e-gemeV 
P  ^^8-       Qj.  well-known  camel-thorn.     These,  and  a  few  others, 
met  with  more  rarely  during  our  journey,  constitute 
the  flora  of  the  Ijittle  Desert.    Brief  as  this  description 
lias  been,  it  will,  I  trust,  ^ve  the  reader  some  idea  of 
desert  travelling,  which  must  necessarily  be  of  a  very 
monotonous  character. 
PurpoBo  Mine  was  now  to  be  exchanged  for  a  very  different 

i^ng  by*^^  mode  of  locomotion.  My  object  in  coming  to  Anna 
was  to  secure  the  means  of  floating  down  and  sur- 
veying the  Kiver  Euphrates — the  great  object  which, 
during  all  my  previous  journeyings,  I  had  kept  steadily 
in  view. 

My  position,  however,  was  not  free  from  anxiety.  I 
had  still  to  ascertain,  not  only  whether  I  could  procure 
the  means  of  descending  the  river,  but  whether  the 
Euphrates  were  navigable  from  Anna  to  the  sea.  It  was 
therefore  with  mingled  feelings  of  uncertainty  and  of 
hope  that  I  proceeded  to  the  Sheikli's  house,  in  order  to 
obtain  his  assistance  in  the  first  place  ;  and  there,  sur- 
rounded by  a  crowd  of  Arabs,  who  flocked  to  see  the 
stranger,  I  remained  until  late  in  the  evening,  when 
the  Sheikh  came  home. 

Having  explained  that  the  state  of  my  health  ren- 


water. 


RECEPTION  BT  THE  SHEIKH   OF   ANNA.  65 

dered  it  impossible  for  me  to  continue  my  journey  with     chap. 
the  caravan,  I  told  him  that  I  was  anxious  to  exchange   — r-^— 


the  rough  paces  of  the  camel  for  the  easier  conveyance  d^enr^ 
of  a  boat ;  and  I  then  produced  the  Sultan's  firman,  and 
requested  him  to  find  me  the  means  of  proceeding  by 
water  to  Felujah,  whence  I  could  cross  to  Bagdad. 

The  Sheikh,  it  appeared,  had  been  in  that  city  more 
than  once,  and  had  seen  H.  B.  M.'s  Kesident — which 
fact  gave  weight  to  the  firman,  and  lessened  my  diffi- 
culties. It  was  at  once  arranged  that  a  messenger  Me6senger 
should  be  sent  to  Bagdad  with  my  letter,  the  chief  Bagdiwi. 
object  of  which  was  to  make  known  to  the  Eesident 
that  I  had  been  unable  to  communicate  with  the  sup- 
posed captives  at  Palmyra,  one  of  whom  was  surmised 
to  be  Major  Taylor's  brother.  An  Arab  soon  ap- 
peared, provided  with  a  short  stick  with  a  round  knob 
at  one  end,  as  his  means  of  defence,  and  a  bag  of 
dates  for  sustenance ;  and  being,  as  is  usual  with  the 
Arabs,  paid  for  the  journey  in  advance,  he  took  his 
departure. 

The  Sheikh  informed  me  that  my  object  of  proceed- 
ing by  water  might  be  accomplished  either  in  a  country 
boat,  or  by  means  of  a  raft  supported  on  inflated  skins. 
It  struck  me  that  the  latter  would  be  much  better  suited 
to  my  purpose  than  a  clumsy  unmanageable  boat,  and 
the  Sheikh  at  once  agreed  to  have  one  prepared.  The 
delay,  thus  unavoidably  incurred,  gave  me  time  to  ex- 
plore the  town  of  Anna,  as  well  as  the  many  interesting 
sites  in  its  vicinity,  among  which  that  of  Anna  Tilbus  Anna 
possesses  great  interest  in  connection  with  the  Emperor 
Trajan's   descent  of  the  Euphrates.     But,  instead  of 

F 


66  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

bringing  me  the  boat,  which  I  expected,  to  enable  me 
to  descend  to  that  island — a  distance  of  20  miles — an 
Arab  arrived,  provided  with  four  inflated  skins,  and 

Aprimi-  Bome  wiUow-twigs  to  connect  them  together;  and  I 
found  that  I  was  expected  to  sit  across  this  little  raft, 
with  my  legs  in  the  water,  leaving  the  current  to  trans- 
port me  to  the  place  I  wished  to  visit.  This  very 
primitive  mode  of  navigation  was  not  quite  in  accord- 
ance with  my  ideas,  and  I  thought  it  as  well  to  postpone 
my  visit  to  Anna  Tilbus,  especially  as  the  environs  of 
Anna  seemed  to  offer  greater  objects  of  interest  than 
the  island. 

Descrip-         The  towH  of  Anna  itself  stmggles  for  a  distance  of 

Anna.  nearly  four  miles  along  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and 
is  almost  hidden  in  groves  of  date,  fig,  and  pom^ranate 
trees.  It  contains  about  500  clay  houses,  all  built  in  a 
line  along  the  bank  of  the  stream,  which,  in  this  part 
of  its  course,  washes  two  elevated  ranges  of  hills ;  and  in 
making  its  way  through  them,  it  has  formed  a  string  rf 
seven  prettily- wooded  and  cultivated  islands,  on  which 
were  five  corn-mills,  with  their  aqueducts,  in  good  repair. 
Many  remains  of  ancient  buildings  also  exist  on  these 
islands :  on  one  of  them  are  the  ruins  of  the  Palace  of 
the  Persian  Emperor  Ardeshir,  on  another  those  of  an 
extensive  castle,  on  a  third  the  remains  of  a  bridge — 
which  at  one  time  crossed  the  river — and  on  a  fourth 
(the  largest  of  the  chain)  there  is  a  lofty  and  graceful 
Persian  minareh.     On  the  left  bank,  and  below  the 

Ruins  modem  town  of  Anna,  are  the  ruins  of  ancient  Anatho, 
which  however,  with  the  exception  of  part  of  a  castle, 
and  some  towers,  are  scarcely  distinguishable.  Sdll, 
although  no  longer  a  royal  city,  the  modem  Anna  is 


PBEPARATIOX  OP  THE   BAFT.  67 

quite  worthy  of  attention,  not  only  on  account  of  its     chap. 

IV 

commanding  the  principal  passage  between  Aleppo  and  ^ — r-^-^ 
Bagdad,  but  also  from  its   picturesque  situation   and 
numerous  population. 

With  me,  however,  the  place  itself  was  secondary  to 
the  preparation  of  my  raft.     This,  at  times,  seemed  to 
l)e  a  matter  of  promise  never  to  be  realised,  and  I 
began  to  apprehend  some  intention  of  putting  an  end 
to  my  proposed  descent ;  and  the  particular  enquiries, 
as  to  my  object,  my  occupation,  &c.,  made  by  the 
Shammar  Arabs,  when  they  crossed  the  river,  were 
not  calculated  to  lessen  my  uneasiness.     It  was,  there-  The  mft 
fore,  with  feelings  of  tlie  keenest  satisfaction,  that  I  miJd^ 
found  the  raft  put  in  motion,  on  January  2, 1831,  when  mcnced. 
I  commenced  my  descending  voyage. 

If  the  reader  should  be  disposed  to  take  the  trouble 
of  referring  to  a  previous  volume  of  this  work,*  he 
vnW  find  some  account  of  the  various  kinds  of  rafts 
which  have  been,  and  still  are,  in  use  in  Mesopotamia, 
whilst  the  annexed  plate  represents  that  on  which  I 
now  embarked.f  Its  dimensions  were  as  follows : — 
Its  base  was  a  rectangular  platform  of  14^  feet  long  by  Deecnp- 
1 3  i  feet  wide,  with  a  sort  of  well,  or  inlet,  left  open  raft. 
at  the  after-extremity  of  the  structure,  which  was 
rendered  substantial  by  successive  layei's  of  branches, 
CTossed  at  right-angles  to  each  other,  till  they  were 
about  18  inches  or  2  feet  thick,  which  gave  it  suffi- 
cient stability.  Bough  planks  were  laid  above  the 
interlaced  branches,  to  support  a  platform,  on  which 

•  VoL  ii.  pp.  e34H636  of '  Expedition  to  the  Euphrates.' 
t  Ihid.  Vol.  ii.  Plate  V. 

F  2 


68  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX- 

CHAP,  a  kind  of  fireplace  was  fitted  up  within  an  enclosure 
' — ^ — '  of  wet  day  (for  security  from  fire) ;  and  40  inflated 
sheepskins  were  placed  beneath  the  raft,  to  give  it 
the  requisite  buoyancy  when  floated.  And  now  all 
was  ready  for  the  commencement  of  my  descending 
voyage. 


69 


CHAlTEfl  V. 

DESCENT   OF  THE  RIYER   EUPHRATES   ON  A   RAFT  AND   BT   BOAT, 
AND  CROSSING  THE   PERSIAN  GULF  TO  BUSHIRE. 

The  new  year  and  the  descending  survey  were  to  have     chap. 
commenced  together ;  but  it  was  only  on  the  following  -     7'    - 
day  that  our  preparations  were   completed,  and  the  ?*f?f^ 
demands  of  the  Sheikh  satisfied.     He  had  become  so  d««»nt* 
much  inclined  to  take  care  of  hhnself  towards  the  last, 
that,  in  addition  to  the  money-payments  agreed  upon, 
my  white  cloak,  and  some  other  parts  of  my  attire,  had 
to  be  made  over  to  liim.     However,  he  was  pretty 
well  satisfied  at  last ;   and  some  cooking  utensils,  my 
tent  as  an  awning,  and  charcoal,  as  well  as  a  supply  of 
provisions,  having  been  placed  on  the  raft,  this  somewhat 
remarkable  voyage  was  commenced  by  quitting  Anna, 
with  the  expectation  of  being  able,  in  case  of  urgent 
necessity,  to  dispense  with  additional  supplies. 

An  Arab,  named  Getgood,  had  been  selected  by  the  Oetgood 
Sheikh,  for  his  fidelity,  as  well  as  for  his  knowledge  of  the  *  ^  ^^' 
river,  to  accompany  me.  Two  other  Arabs  were  to  guide 
the  raft,  by  keeping  it  in  midstream,  each  having  for  this 
purpose  a  rude  oar,  with  a  kind  of  fan  or  blade  at  the 
extremity,  made  of  the  wood  of  the  date-tree.  These 
individuals  sat  on  each  side  of  the  well,  or  opening  in  the 
after-part  of  the  raft,  with  their  feet  in  the  water,  so  as  to 
be  quite  ready  to  blow  out  any  of  the  skinj>  from  which 


70  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPllBATBS   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    the  air  might  have  escaped.     Halil(the  dragoman) and 
>- — w- —   his  slave-boy  completed  our  party.     A  pocket-compaflB 
The  sur-     gavc  the  bcHi  ings  of  the  principal  points,  and  a  rough 
coutri-       sketch  was  to  be  made  as  we  followed  the  stream. 
wundii^.    But  as  any  attempt  to  sound  would  have  been  sure  to 
arouse  suspicion,  which  might  have  proved  fatal  to  sac- 
cess,  the  very  im[)ortant  object  of  the  depth  of  the 
river  was  obtiiined,  approximately,  by  letting  down  a 
10-fcet  pole  tlirough  the  well  of  the  raft,  which,  being 
forced  upwards  in  case  of  touching  the  bottom,  Gt 
meeting  any  obstruction,  gave  me  the  means  of  ascer- 
taining the   depth   of  water,  without  attracting  the 
observation  that  must  have  resulted  fix)m  any  attempt 
to  make  regular  soimdings. 

Such  were  the  simple  arrangements  by  which  I 
i\scertained  the  ordinary  deptli,  as  well  as  the  general 
capabilities  of  the  river,  as  the  raft  descended  the 
stream ;  and  even  now,  after  the  lapse  of  37  years,  the 
first  splash  of  its  date-tree  oars  is  as  freshly  recollected, 
as  though  it  had  only  been  yesterday  that  I  was  carried 
along  over  the  imruffled  surface  of  the  great  river, 
through  the  islands  of  Anna,  and  the  adjoining  remains 
iMotur-  of  Anatho.  The  picturesque  scenery  of  the  river  did 
IlS^'near  uot,  howcvcr,  terminate  on  leaving  the  precincts  of 
Anna  :  watermills  and  aqueducts  were  passed,  at  short 
intervals,  as  we  floated  between  its  well-wooded  banks, 
and  along  islands  of  various  dimensions,  until  the  cur- 
rent, now  strong  and  deep,  carried  us  past  the  still 
perfect  walls  of  ancient  Tilbus.  We  had  scarcely 
passed  between  the  island  on  which  it  stands,  and  the 
opposite  excavations  on  the  left  bank — no  doubt  ancient 
tix)glodytc  dwellings  —  when  Halil's  acceptable  pilau, 


Aniui. 


REMARKABLE  BEND  OF  THE  RIVER.  71 

cooked  in  our  little  day  fireplace,  made  its  appearance ;     chap. 
and  as  it  was  now  almost  dark,  and  I  did  not  wish  to  ^ — ^ — ' 


lose  any  part  of  the  river,  the  raft  was  brought  up  for 

the  night,  as  a  matter  of  prudence,  at  the  uninhabited  GobMn 

island  of  Gobain. 

We  were  on  the  move  rather  before  daybreak,  and,  J»n.  3. 
almost  as  soon  as  there  was  sufficient  light,  we  found 
ourselves  within  eight  yards  of  a  noble  lion,  who  was  a  lioo 
pacing  leisurely  along  the  edge  of  the  river.  My  first 
impulse  was  to  seize  my  gun,  which  was  rather  heavily 
loaded  with  pistol-balls ;  my  next  was  to  gaze  at  the 
royal  animal,  as  he  pursued  his  way  quietly  along  the 
bank,  and  as  I  did  so  my  destructive  inclination  passed 
away ;  I  uncocked  my  gun,  and  laid  it  down. 

The  liver  was  as  deep  and  wide  as  we  had  found  it 
on  the  previous  day.  It  continued  to  flow  to  the  south- 
east for  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  having  numerous  clay- 
built  villages,  generally  with  aqueducts  attached  to  them, 
on  its  banks.  Beyond  this  the  stream  takes  a  sweep 
to  the  south-west,  and,  after  running  nearly  five  miles  Great  b«iid 
in  this  direction,  it  makes  the  most  remarkable  bend  at  Ha"^^' 
(or  rather  convolution)  that  occurs  throughout  its  entire  ^^ 
course.  It  literally  forms  quite  a  horseshoe,  the 
farther  heel  or  extremity  of  which  terminates  opposite 
the  island  of  Beni- Annan.  In  distance  as  the  crow  flies, 
this  spot  is  less  than  two  miles  from  the  commencement 
of  this  sweep  at  Hawajji-el-Khawaslik,  from  whence, 
according  to  the  Arabs,  the  call  to  '  come  and  eat '  can 
be  heard  at  the  opposite  extremity  of  this  very 
remarkable  bend. 

Beyond   Hawajji-el-Khawaslik  the  river   flows  be- 
tween high  hills  clothed  widi  brushwood  to  the  very 


72  NARRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     edge  of  the  water.     As  we  came  close  upon  these 


^ — -r^ — '  hills,  they  looked  as  if  they  must  effectually  bar  all 
farther  progress ;  and  as  we  were  speculating  as  to 
where  the  opening  could  possibly  be  which  would  take 

Attack  on  US  out  of  this  sccming  cul-de-sac^  a  puff  of  smoke  was 
seen  on  the  right  bank,  and  two  balls  struck  the  water 
at  the  same  instant — one  beyond,  and  the  other  rather 
short  of  the  raft.  Halil  awoke  at  this  moment  from 
his  siesta,  exclaiming,  '  C'est  un  coup  de  fusil  qu'on 
tire  sur  nous ! '  The  brushwood  effectually  screened 
the  people  who  were  making   this  attack,   and  we 

Defensive    immediately  arranged  our  sacks  and  baggage,  so  as  to 

prepara-  ^^^  ^^  somc  cover  also.  Another  shot  followed,  (» 
which  Halil  seized  my  gun,  and  fired  its  charge  into 
the  brushwood  where  the  smoke  had  appeared  ;  and 
the  discharge,  which  was  buck-shot,  similar  to  that 
fired  on  our  troops  from  the  walls  of  Badajoz,  pro- 
duced a  decided  effect,  cutting  away  the  branches,  and 
no  doubt  dislodging  the  Arabs  who  were  making 
this  attack.  Being  ignorant,  however,  as  to  whether 
this  were  the  case  or  not,  we  continued  our  onward 
course,  rather  westward  of  north,  as  far  as  the  island  of 

Beni-         Beni-Annan,where  we  brought  up  the  raft  for  the  night. 

Annan.  Daylight  found  us  again  floating  down  tlie  stream, 

our  course  nearly  south-west,  through  scenery  very 
similar  to  that  of  the  previous  day :  islands,  villages 
and  aqueducts,  and  banks  covered  with  wood,  were 
passed  in  succession ;  and  although,  perhaps,  implying 
sameness  in  description,  there  was,  in  reality,  much 
quiet  life  and  variety  and  beauty  in  this  part  of  our 
voyage.  During  the  morning  we  stopped  for  a  short 
time  at  Hadisa,  just  as  the  people  were  swimming  two 


FIRST  COMMUNICATION   WITH  THE  PJBOPLE.  73 

oxen   across  the  river.     This  island-town  contained,    chap. 
apparently,  about  300  houses,  built  on  high  ground,  ^ — ^ ' 


surrounded  by  a  defensible  wall  washed  by  the  river.  ^'^^ 
Some  arches  of  a  bridge  remain,  which  once  com- 
municated with  the  mainland,  to  the  right  of  which, 
at  a  httle  distance  from  the  water,  are  two  conspicuous 
saints'  tombs. 

Here  we  had  our  first  communication  with  the 
people  along  the  river,  an  important  and  interesting 
moment  for  us  all.  The  raft  having  been  made  secure, 
I  found  my  way  to  the  Sheikh's  house,  produced  the 
Sultan's  firman,  and  asked  for  break&st.  Meat  and  BreaUSMt 
milk  were  produced  at  once,  and  the  firman  respectfully  sheikh. 
placed  on  the  Sheikh's  head,  as  well  as  on  those  of  his 
numerous  visitors  who  had  flocked  to  see  the  Frank. 
Avowed  duty  to  the  Sultan  and  professions  of  obedience 
were  plentiful ;  but  when  I  came  to  ask,  as  a  practical 
proof  of  the  Sheikh's  loyalty,  that  one  of  his  Arabs 
might  accompany  me,  he  made  endless  difficulties ;  and 
I  had  to  resist  the  exactions  attempted  to  be  made  for 
the  benefit  of  the  Shammar  tribe,  and  to  resume  our 
descent,  taking  one  of  his  tribe  with  us — most  un- 
willingly  on  his  part — as  a  nominal  protection  against 
his  people. 

After  quitting  Hadisa,  we  passed  some  other  smaller  Leave 
islands.  The  banks  of  the  river  at  this  part  were 
generally  bare  of  wood,  but  still  pretty,  owing  to 
the  numerous  graceful  aqueducts,  which  we  passed 
on  both  sides.  A  few  miles  farther  we  floated  over 
the  rocks  of  Hafagia — then  passed  Hajji  Island,  and 
later  in  the  afternoon  we  got  over  the  formidable 
rocks  called  Fat-hat-Huddhr-Elias ;  and  keeping  clear 


74  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOK. 

CHAP,    of  the  whirlpool  which  they  cause,  we  floated  quicUy 


— ^ — '  onwards   until    the    evening,  when   the    raft   almost 

touched  the  walls  of  El-Oos  as  we  passed  by  it.     El- 

isiand  of    Oos  is  an  island- town  of  some  importance,  with  two 

scenery*"    mosqucs,   somc    flourmiUs,    and   about    250    houses. 

Beyond   El-Oos  steep  sandhills  border  the  river  on 

either   bank ;   but  more  picturesque  scenery  follows 

immediately  afterwards,  diversified  at  intervals  with 

the  usual  watermills,  and  some  of  these  had  a  tower 

attached  to  them  for  the  purpose  of  defence. 

Progress         As  the  Stream  did  our  work  almost  entirely,  the  two 

o  ourra  .  i^qj^i-jq^q  \^^^  \i\S}iQ  trouble,  bcyoud  an  occasional  use 

of  their  date-tree  oars,  to  keep  our  craft  midstream ; 
and  thus  we  proceeded,  lazily  and  pleasantly,  as  long  as 
there  was  sufficient  light  to  take  the  bearings.  When 
this  failed  we  brought  up,  under  the  right  bank,  near 

Ribiah  the  Castle  of  Eiblah.  Here  the  boatmen  slept  on  shore, 
""  ^'  whilst  the  rest  of  our  party  remained  on  the  raft ;  and 
as  the  disposition  of  the  people  did  not  seem  to  be  too 
favourable,  we  quietly  unmoored,  and  resumed  our 
way  before  daylight.  Beyond  Dowalie  Castle  and  its 
watermill,  we  came  upon  a  more  open  country.  The 
hills  receded  from  the  banks,  on  which  were  villages  at 
intervals,  and  the  usual  aqueducts ;  and  a  little  lower 
down-stream,  we  passed  between  Jeriat  Haouran  on  tlie 
left,  and  Wadi  Haouran  on  the  right  bank,  near  which 
the  scenery  becomes  extremely  attractive,  especially  on 

Town  and   approaching    Jibba.     We    found  this    place    to    be 

island  of 

Jibba.  another  walled  island-town,  with  some  500  houses  en- 
sconced in  a  date-grove,  which  extends  for  more  than 
a  mile  along  the  centre  of  the  river,  which  is  here  shut 
in  by  high  ranges  of  hills,  with  two  saints'  tombs  on 


NEWS  OF  THE  ANIZA  ARABS.  75 

their  summit.     The  whole  effect  is  picturesque  in  the    chap. 
extreme ;    indeed,  for  some  distance  below  Jibba,  the  ^ — r^ — ' 


scenery  continues  to  be  exceedingly  bold  and  romantic. 

This  afternoon  the  usual  monotony  of  our  voyage  was 
broken  by  the  appearance  of  a  very  fine  wolf,  which  Woif 
jmssed  close  by  the  raft  as  he  swam  from  the  left  to  acroM 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  which  is  here  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  broad.  On  landing,  he  shook  himself  hke  a  dog, 
and  scampered  off  as  joyfully  as  if  he  had  known  that 
a  deadly  aim  had  been  taken  at  him,  and  the  gun  all 
but  discharged,  as  he  scrambled  out  of  the  water. 

This  was  quite  a  day  of  incidents,  for  a  little  lower 
down  we  met  a  large  boat,  which  had  come  up  from 
Hit  to  collect  timber  and  brushwood.  Her  people 
gave  us  the  unwelcome  news  that  the  Aniza  Arabs  were  The  Aniza 
in  the  neighbourhood,  which  induced  us  to  bring  to 
almost  immediately  at  the  island  of  Serajia,  Next 
morning  we  found  the  Hit  boat  still  employed  in  com- 
pleting her  cargo,  and  no  fresh  intelligence  of  the  Arabs 
having  come  in,  Getgood  went  stealthily  forward  to 
reconnoitre.  He  ascertained,  satisfactorily,  that  the 
Aniza  had  moved  away,  and  we  resumed  our  descent 
at  once. 

The  depth  of  the  river  was  very  satisfactorily  ob-  P«>p' 
tained  by  means  of  my  10-feet  rod,  which  worked  well ;  descent. 
and  our  rate  of  progress  gave  me  sufficient  time  not 
only  to  take  the  necessary  bearings,  but  also  to  make 
a  rough  pencil-sketch  of  the  banks,  wliich  continued  to 
be  highly  picturesque.  Throughout  the  whole  distance 
froni  Anna  to  Hit  (131  miles),  we  passed  through  a  con- 
stant succession  of  watermills  and  aqueducts,  villages 
and  hamlets,  which  succeed  each  other  at  almost  evcrv 


ess 


70  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    fresh  sweep   of  the  river;   now  showmg  themselves 
^— T^ — '  between  the  low  hills  which  skirt  the  river's  banks, 


now  enhvening  the  wooded  islands  which  frequently 
divide  its  stream — which,  in  this  part  of  its  course,  has 

Width  and  an  average  width  of  350  yards,  a  depth  of  11  feet, 

the  river,  ^nd  a  Current  of  three  knots  per  hour  in  the  season 
of  floods.  I  counted  fourteen  islands  during  this  part 
of  our  descent,  many  of  which  have  small  towns  upon 
them,  often  built  on  some  ancient  site. 

Scenery  of       ^  ^^"^^  rcspects  the  sceucry  of  the  Euphrates  re- 

Enph»te»  ^^^^^  ™^  ^f  ^^^^  ^^  parts  of  the  Nile,  although  far 
exceeding  the  latter  in  picturesque  effect,  which  is  veiy 
much  due  to  the  often-mentioned  aqueducts,  and  their 
simple  but  efficient  waterwheels.  The  last  of  these, 
which  we  passed  during  this  day,  was  partly  concealed 
by  the  dense  smoke  arising  from  the  boiling  bitumen  of 

Hit  and  its  the  Springs  of  Hit,  at  which  place  we  had  now  arrived. 

Bpri^?  Our  first  visit  was  to  the  governor.  Sheikh  Mohammed, 
whose  attire  accorded  well  with  the  murky  atmosphere 
of  the  place.  Having  read  the  letter  which  I  had 
brought  with  me  from  Anna,  he  welcomed  me  warmly, 

Sheikh  of  and  his  '  Bismillah  I '  was  followed  by  a  supper  of  rice, 
after  which  we  entered  upon  the  question  of  the  pro- 
secution of  our  voyage.  Sheikh  Mohammed  was  placed 
at  Hit  in  charge  of  the  bitumen  and  other  productions 
of  the  place,  and  he  had  therefore  ample  means  of 
giving  us  all  requisite  furtherance. 

The  message  brought  from  Anna  by  the  Arab  Get- 
good  disposed  him  favourably  towards  us,  and  the  pro- 
duction of  the  Sultan's  firman  completed  the  business. 
Sheikh  Mohammed  at  once  provided  us  with  accom- 
modation, and  expressed  his  readiness  to  be  useful  to 


Hit. 


PRIMITIVE  METHOD  OP   BOATBUILDING.  77 

US  in  any  way.  Now  as  the  raft,  although  most  chap, 
suitable  in  other  respects,  had  consumed  a  good  deal  of  >^ — ' 
time  in  descending  the  131  miles  from  Anna,  I  was 
anxious  to  replace  it  by  a  more  speedy  mode  of  con- 
veyance, and  the  Sheikh  imdertook  to  find  what  I 
wanted  without  any  difficulty.  Boatbuilding  is  an 
everyday  occupation  at  Hit,  and  is  quite  as  simple  as 
it  was  in  the  time  when  Noah  made  '  an  ark  of  gopher- 
wood,'  and  pitched  it  *  within  and  without  with  pitch.'  * 

The  self-taught  shipwrights  of  Hit  have  neither  Method  of 
docks,  nor  basins,  nor  even  slips,  to  faciUtate  their  ^J^i^gat 
labour ;  yet  they  can  construct  a  serviceable  boat  in  a  ^*^- 
short  time,  with  no  other  tools  than  an  axe  and  a  saw, 
with  a  ladle  for  pouring  out  the  melted  pitch,  and  a 
roUer  for  smoothing  it.  The  first  process  in  this 
primitive  mode  of  shipbuilding,  is  to  choose  a  level 
spot  of  ground,  near  the  water,  on  which  the  car- 
penter traces  the  figure  of  the  bottom  of  the  projected 
boat — ^not,  it  is  true,  with  mathematical  accuracy,  but 
still  a  line  is  nsed,  and  a  certain  system  followed.  In 
the  space  thus  marked  out,  a  number  of  rough 
branches  are  laid  in  parallel  Unes,  and  others  inter 
laced  across  them.  A  kind  of  basket-work,  of  reeds 
and  straw,  is  then  plaited  through  them,  to  fill  up  the 
interstices ;  and  some  stronger  branches,  laid  across 
at  intervals  of  eight  or  ten  inches,  give  the  requisite 
stability  to  the  bottom.  The  sides  are  then  built  up, 
which  is  done  by  driving  upright  posts  of  the  requisite 
height  through  the  edge  of  the  platform,  about  a  foot 
apart;  these  are  filled  in,  in  the  same  way  as  the  bottom, 
and  the  whole  is  consolidated  by  placing  strong  branches, 

*  Genesis  ti.  14. 


78  XAERATIVB  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    or  stems  of  small  trees,  as  tie-beams,  at  short  intervals 

V. 

from  gunwale   to  gunwale.     The   necessary  stability 


being  thus  obtained,  the  outside  of  the  boat  is  coated 
with  hot  bitumen,  which  is  melted  over  a  fire  made 
on  the  ground  close  at  hand,  and  reduced  to  proper 
consistency  by  an  admixture  of  sand  and  eartli. 

This  bituminous  cement  is  spread  over  the  frame- 
work of  the  boat,  both  within  and  without,  by  means 
of  a  wooden  roller,  which  produces  quite  a  smooth 
surface,  and  soon  becomes  perfectly  hard,  impervious 
to  water,  and  well-suited  for  river-navigation.  Some 
of  these  boats  are  not  unlike  a  coffin,  the  broadest  end 
representing  the  bow;  but  others  are  of  a  neater 
build ;  the  reader  will  find  them  described  in  the  second 
volume  of  the  author's  previous  work  on  the  Euphrates 
Expedition.*  When  laden,  these  boats  draw  22  inches, 
but  only  6  inches  when  empty. 

The  bitumen  found  near  Hit  appears  to  be  still  as 

inexhaustible  as  it  was  in  the  time  of  Herodotus.     It 

exists  in  several  places  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town. 

Sulphur  is  abundant  also,  and  at  some  spots  in  this 

locahty,  naphtha  is  plentiful,  and  makes  its  way  to  the 

surface  through  saline  tepid  water,  which  has  the  appear- 

Curative     ^^^^  ^^  boiUng  soapsuds.    It  has  even  a  more  foetid  and 

Se?prinM  disagreeable  taste  than  the  Harrowgate  watet^,  and  ap- 

^  ^*^       parently  stronger  medicinal  properties.     The  natives  say 

that  these  springs  cure  every  kind  of  human  malady. 

Hit  contains  a  minareh,  rising  conspicuously  above 
the  mosque,  and  about  1,500  flat-roofed  small-sized 
houses,  built  round  an  elevated  hill.  The  place  has  a 
prosperous  aspect.     In  addition  to  the  sources  of  trade 

*  '  Expedition  to  the  Rivers  Euphrates  and  Tigris,*  voL  ii.  p.  642. 


A  BOAT  SUBSTITUTED  FOR  THB  RAFT.  79 

mentioned  above,  there  is  abundance  of  excellent  lime-    chap. 

stone  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  town.  ' r^— - 

The  inhabitants  find  ample  occupation,  not  only  in 
boatbuilding,  but  also  in  the  manufacture  of  earthen 
vessels  of  various  kinds — such  as  those  required  for  the 
waterwheels,  and  a  kind  of  crock,  which  is  placed  on  the 
roof  of  almost  every  house  to  hold  a  supply  of  water. 

My  raft  was  now  replaced  by  one  of  the  boats  of  Ka^  ^ 

plftcod  by 

Hit,  and  we  left  this  town,  accompanied  by  a  man  from  a  boat. 
Sheikh  Mohammed,  whose  bxisiness  was  to  give  infor- 
mation about  us  to  any  curious  enquirers  whom  we 
might  meet.  Our  descent  was  resumed  on  January 
9,  and  was  carried  on  as  before,  but  rather  more 
speedily  than  with  the  raft.  Still  keeping  midstream, 
with  the  measuring-rod  let  down,  the  bearings  and 
features  of  the  country  were  carefully  noted.  The 
scenery  immediately  below  Hit  presented  no  variety 
from  that  above  the  town,  and  we  were  carried  along 
without  any  exertion  being  needed  on  our  parts.  The 
weather  had  hitherto  been  most  favourable,'  but  during 
the  afternoon  of  our  departure  from  Hit  a  sudden 
change  took  place,  and  a  violent  storm  drove  us  to  a  violent 

storm. 

seek  shelter  in  a  cavern,  which  we  most  opportunely  met 
with  on  the  left  bank,  and  in  which  we  remained  all 
night.  The  wind  had  abated  the  next  morning,  and 
we  were  able  to  resume  our  course. 

Dimng  this  day  the  river-scenery  became  less  attrac-  Mode  of 
tive,  chiefly  owing  to  the  substitution  of  large  water- 
skins,  worked  by  bullocks,  in  the  place  of  the  more 
graceful  waterwheek  and  their  attendant  aqueducts. 
This  simple  contrivance  for  purposes  of  irrigation  is, 
however,  very  eflScient.    The  bullocks  work  the  skins 


80  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES   EXI'EDITION. 

CHAP,    up  and  down  to  the  river  by  means  of  an  inclined  plane, 
* — ^-^  t6  give  them  additional  power,  and  send  a  supply  of 


water  into  the  fields  through  a  channel,  into  which 
the  skins  empty  themselves.  These  primitive  macliines 
were  very  numerous  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and 
were  all  in  full  work,  which  made  it  evident  that  our 
boat  was  passing  tlirough  a  populous  country.  We 
reached  the  tent-village  of  Hemateen  before  dark,  and 
remained  there  for  the  night. 

Sheikh  of        The  foUowing  morning  we  landed,  by  invitation,  to 

denes.  breakfast  with  Ibrahim  El-Abt,  sheikh  of  the  consider- 
able tribe  of  the  Bordene.  He  received  the  dragoman 
and  myself  in  his  spacious  tent,  where  an  ample  meal 
was  immediately  served;  and  where  I,  for  the  first 
time,  met  with  a  particular  dish,  a  mixture  of  butler 

An  Arab  and  houcy,  wliich,  from  the  familiar  mention  of  it  by 
the  Prophet,  must  have  been  ordinary  fare  in  the  East 
in  Isaiah's  day,*  as  it  is  now,  for  I  frequently  met  with 
it  on  subsequent  occasions. 

On  taking  leave  of  our  host,  I  discovered  that  his 
marked  civility  was  not  quite  disinterested;  for  he 
appealed  urgently  to  me,  to  endeavour  to  move  the 
Pacha  of  Bagdad  to  release  his  son,  who  had  been 
detained  in  that  city,  as  security  for  the  payment  of 
some  30,000  piastres,  due  by  the  tribe  on  account  of 
revenue. 

During  the  afternoon  we  passed  the  considerable 
town  of  Kalat  Ramadi,  which  stands  conspicuously 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river ;  fi:om  thence  we  passed 

Meflhaid.  Meshaid,  where  the  depth  of  water  is  little  more  than 
six  feet,  and  halted  for  the  night  at  the  camel's  ford  of 

*  '  Butter  and  bonej  shall  he  eat.*     (Isaiah  vii.  16.) 


ABAB  COSTUMES.  81 

Abii  Serai,  where  the  river  is  equally  shallow.     We     chap. 


V. 


went  onwards,  through  an  interesting  and  populous  ^ 
country,  the  next  day.  Bullock-rollers  followed  each  f^  ^^ 
other  in  quick  succession,  raising  huge  water-skins  to 
irrigate  and  fertilise  the  land ;  and  villages  appeared  at 
very  short  intervals — some  consisting  of  congregations 
of  tents,  others  of  clay-built  dwellings,  with  large 
cylindrical  wicker-baskets  to  hold  grain  on  each  of 
their  flat  roofs.  The  people  were  everywhere  at 
work,  preparing  their  crops,  and  the  whole  country 
presented  a  most  animated  scene.  A  full  sliare  of  the 
field-labour  seemed  to  be  done  by  the  women,  whose 
costume  is  a  loose  open  dress  of  coarse  blue  cotton,  and 
they  wear,  almost  without  exception,  a  gold  ornament 
passed  through  the  left  cartilage  of  the  nose.  The  men 
wear  sandals,  a  loose-flowing  cloak,  and  the  usual 
bright-coloured  handkerchief  over  their  heads.  It  was 
altogether  a  cheerful  and  lovely  scene,  as  we  threaded 
oiu*  way  through  the  pretty  little  islands,  enjoying  a 
temperature  much  like  that  of  our  English  summer. 

By  sunset  we  were  in  sight  of  the  bridge  of  Felujah, 
and  had  thus  accomphshed  87  miles   of  the   descent 
below  Hit,  without  any  untoward  occurrence.     As  we 
entered  a  comparatively  level  country,  the  windings  of 
the  river  had  become  shorter  and  more  frequent.     Its  The  Rirer 
average  width  had  decreased  to  about  250  yards,  with  above^ 
an  ordinary  depth  of  about  20  feet,  and  a  current  of    ^^^   * 
scarcely  2^  knots  per  hour  during  the  flood-season, 
at  which  time  the  stream  forms  thirteen  islands,  which 
are  chiefly  devoid  of  wood.    As  we  approached  Fehijab, 
the  river's  banks  presented  a  very  animated  appearance, 
owing  to  the  munerous  and  busy  popidation — otherwise 


82  NARRATIVE   OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,    the  scenery  had  latterly  become  far  tamer  and  less 


V. 


interesting  than  during  the  earlier  part  of  our  voyage. 

Reception  At  Fclujah  we  were  hospitably  received  by  the  governor, 
with  whose  help  my  future  plans  were  soon  arranged. 

I  had  now  completed  the  first  half  of  the  survey, 
and  considered  it  desirable  that  the  second  portion 
should  be  postponed  until  my  return  from  Bagdad. 
The  Sultan's  firman  secured  the  co-operation  of  Sheikh 
Ibrahim,  and  he  promised  to  take  charge  of  my  boat 
during  my  absence.  My  principal  reasons  for  deciding 
on  this  visit  to  Bagdad  were  two :  my  anxiety  to  make 
known  to  Major  Taylor  what  had  been  reported  about 
the  supposed  traveller  at  Palmyra ;  and  my  wish  to 
have  the  means  of  lajing  down  that  part  of  the 
Euphrates  which  had  just  been  surveyed,  and  to  send 
home  the   map  of   this  portion  of  the   river  before 

Start  for  proceeding  to  the  completion  of  my  task.  I  therefore 
left  Felujah  early  the  next  morning,  with  a  small  cara- 
van, which  was  bound  for  the  City  of  the  Khaliphs. 

The  ride  was  a  most  interesting  one.  I  passed  a 
little  to  the  eastward  of  Sifara,  the  antediluvian  Sippara, 
and  proceeded  onwards  in  a  line  almost  pai*allel  to  the 

Tiie  isa  SaklAwiyah  Canal ;  *  thence  I  crossed  a  plain,  with  but 
little  cultivation,  inhabited  by  the  gazelle,  the  '  hoop- 
barra'  (one  of  the  bustard  family),  and  numerous  coveys 
of  the  desert  partridge.  Soon  after  leaving  Felujah  in 
the  morning,  we  had  passed  Suidia  or  Kush,  and  in 
the  afternoon  we  halted  at  Akar-Kuf — which  grand 
monument  of  former  days  had  been  our  landmark 
for  several  hours. 

•  The  Isa  of  Abulfeda,  which,  from  a  spot  below  Bagdad,  has  a  tortu- 
ous course  of  4^  miles  across  Mesopotamia,  terminating  near  Felujah. 


Bagdad. 


Canal. 


AKAR-KUF.  83 

This  was  the  Akar^  Nunriid  of  the  Arabs,  and  the  chap. 
site  of  the  third  primeval  city  of  the  Bible ;  *  and  even  /  ,. 
at  the  risk  of  being  delayed  beyond  sunset,  when  the 
gates  of  Bagdad  are  always  closed,  we  determined  to 
examine  these  interesting  remains.  The  conspicuous 
object  which  we  had  been  watching  for  so  many  hours, 
I  now  found  to  have  been  a  pyramid,  built  of  sun- 
dried  bricks,  on  which  soft  and  friable  materials  Time 
had  made  such  ravages  as  to  have  partly  defaced  its 
original  form.  It  seems  to  have  been  constructed  of 
layers  of  these  bricks,  placed  alternately  upon  one 
another  at  right-angles,  until  a  tliickness  of  2  feet  11^ 
inclies  had  been  attained.  Over  each  portion  so  built, 
a  layer  of  reeds  seems  to  have  been  carried  quite 
through  the  structure,  each  layer  having  a  depth  of 
from  1|  to  2  inches.  Over  this  another  layer  of  bricks 
was  placed — then  another  of  reeds — and  so  on,  section 
by  section,  until  the  desired  height  was  attained. 

The  existing  remains  of  Akar-Kuf  measure  110 
feet  from  east  to  west,  and  128  feet  from  north  to 
south;  and  it  has  still  an  elevation  of  128  feet  above 
the  ground,  although  its  top  has  long  since  crumbled 
away,  and  has  now  the  appearance  represented  in  one 
of  the  plates  in  the  earlier  volumes  of  this  work.f 
About  midway  between  the  ground  and  the  summit 
there  is  an  entrance-door,  probably  the  portal  of  the 
tomb,  which,  according  to  Arab  tradition,  is  that  of 
Nimriid  himself.  Unfortimately,  I  had  no  means  of  Examina- 
getting  up  to  this  height,  and  as  time  also  failed,  we  Akar-Kuf. 
hastened  on  towards  Bagdad,  where,  however,  we  did 

•  Genesis  x.  8, 0. 

t  *  Expedition  to  Euphrates,^  Plate  VIII.  vol.  i.  p.  119. 


84  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,    not  arrive  until  after  sunset.     The  gates  were  therefore 
^ — r^ — '  closed,  and  we  had  to  pass  the  night  outside  the  city. 
Arrival  at       My  letter,   forwarded  from  Anna,   had   prepared 
*^^^*      Major   Taylor   for    my   arrival,   and    notliing   could 
exceed  the  kindness  with  which  I  was  received,  nor 
the  interest  evinced  at  the  Eesidency  in  my  project 
of  communication   with  India  vid  the  Euphrates.    I 
also  learnt  that,  in  consequence  of  instructions  received 
from  India,  a  survey  of  the  Lower  Tigris  had  been  com- 
menced by  Lieutenant  Ormsby,  of  the  Indian  Na\'y,  with 
Mr.  Elliott  as  his  assistant,  under  the  superintendence 
of  the  Resident  at  Bagdad — who  had,  in  fact,  already 
taken  up  this  question,  and   thus  a  strong  bond  of 
sympathy  existed  between  us. 

Major  Taylor  strongly  encouraged  my  project  of 
laying  down  a  map  of  the  river  as  far  as  Felujah, 
before  proceeding  with  my  survey,  and  placed  at 
my  disposal,  with  the  utmost  kindness,  all  the  ad- 
vantages that  the  hospitality  of  the  Eesidency  could 
afford ;  and  my  long  mornings  were  henceforth  de- 
voted to  the  task  of  mapping  the  river  on  the  scale  of 
Appear-  ^^^^  inchcs  to  a  mile,  until  the  appearance  of  the 
the  pioLue  P^^g^*^  ^^  ^^^^  ^^^Y  interrupted  my  work. 

At  first  there  were  only  isolated  cases,  and  all 
possible  precautions  were  taken  against  it,  but  in- 
effectually :  the  terrible  scourge  spread  not  only  in 
the  city,  but  within  the  gates  of  the  Eesidency  itself; 
my  servant  fell  a  victim  to  it,  among  others,  and  it 
became  a  cause  of  saiive  qui  pent  on  all  sides. 

Major  Taylor  and  his  family  decided  on  dropping 
down  the  Tigris  to  Basrah,  whilst  I,  bent  on  continuing 
the   survey  of  the   Euphrates,   started   on   foot  for 


getgood's  departure.  85 

Felujah, having  with  the  greatest  difficulty  succeeded  in     chap. 
getting  one  or  two  donkeys  to  carry  my  baggage.  Whilst  - — ^ — ^ 
crossing  the  desert  I  encountered  a  severe  storm,  and  Boatde- 

°  .  stroyedat 

learnt,  to  my  great  disappointment,  on  reaching  Felujah,  Feiiyah. 
that  my  boat  had  been  destroyed  by  it.  This  was 
no  common  misfortune,  under  existing  circumstances ; 
but  in  course  of  three  or  foiu*  days,  the  governor 
managed  to  prociu*e  a  boat,  similar  to  that  which  I 
had  brought  from  Hit,  for  me ;  and  the  intervening 
time  was  most  agreeably  spent  in  exploring  Sifara, 
revisiting  Akar-Kuf,  and  in  hunting  the  gazelle. 

On  April  10,  aU  was  ready  for  my  departure  from  Departnid 
Felujah,  when,  at  the  last  moment,  Getgood  came  to  Feiiyah. 
say  that  he  must  return  to  his  family — '  the  world,' 
as  he  quaintly  expressed  it,  *  being  topsy-turvy.'  He 
had  served  me  most  faithfully  during  more  than  three 
months,  and  latterly  he  had  been  doubly  useful,  in 
furnishing  me  with  the  names  of  places,  and  other 
details  for  the  maps.     He  was  a  serious  loss  to  me. 

Beyond  Felujah,  the  Euphrates  is  broad  and  deep.  Descent 

of  nTOF 

and  strikingly  resembles  the  Nile  in  the  flood-  recom- 
season,  with  the  exception  that  the  banks  of  the 
former  possess  much  more  life  and  animation  than 
those  of  the  great  river  of  Egypt,  on  account  of 
the  numbers  of  Arabs  who  frequent  them  with  their 
flocks  at  this  season,  for  the  benefit  of  pasturage 
and  water.  Their  proximity  was,  however,  a  source 
of  considerable  uneasiness  to  my  boatmen,  and  I  was 
not  myself  free  from  uncomfortable  feelings,  when 
I  remembered  my  isolated  position.  I  felt,  however, 
that  my  only  course  was  to  proceed  fearlessly,  and 
take  my  chance. 


xnenced. 


86  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.  Soon    after  dark,  some    armed  men  of  the  Zoba 

V. 

- — ^ — '  tribilJ  called  to  us  to  come  to  the  bank ;  but  trustinj; 


to  the  swiftness  of  the  current,  and  the  difficidty  of 
taking  aim  in  the  dark,  we  did  not  seem  to  hear,  and 
were  soon  out  of  reach  of  their  matchlocks.  Soon 
afterwards  we  were  again  hailed  from  the  bank,  but 
this  time  for  the  friendly  purpose  of  giving  and  re- 
ceiving news ;  and  we  learnt  that  the  Shammar  had 
just  seized  a  boat,  and  were  crossing  the  river  a  httle 
ahead  of  us.  We  at  once  brought  up  until  the 
morning,  when,  keeping  our  boat  midstream,  we 
resumed  our  voyage,  and  saw  the  fires  and  heard  the 
voices  of  the  Shammar,  but  were  soon  carried  out  of 
reach  of  annoyance  from  them. 

We  passed  in  succession  the  Mounds  of  Mohammed, 
which  rise  to  some  height  above  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  and  Kaalat-el-Eozzia  on  the  right ;  a  little  far- 
ther on  the  island  of  Iskenderiah,  and  the  Mound  of 
Abu-Tauk  on  the  left  hand,  and  the  ruins  of  El-Kamah 
Musseyib.  OH  the  light ;  and  we  finally  brought  up  at  Musseyib, 
a  town  containing  some  500  clay-built  houses.  It  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank,  and  has  a  floating  bridge 
with  a  moveable  centre,  to  give  a  passage  for  boats. 
This  is  the  first  place  of  any  importance  below  the 
Castle  of  Felujah,  from  whence  it  is  distant  74  miles 
by  water.  The  river  at  this  place  has  an  average 
width  of  180  yards,  and  a  depth  of  at  least  15  feet. 
The  cun-ent  does  not  exceed  2^  knots  an  hour  during 
the  flood-season,  when  six  small  islands  are  formed 
in  this  part  of  its  course.  With  the  exception  of 
the  mounds,  which  rise  above  its  banks  at  Maidain, 
Kaalat-el-Rozzia,    at    Abu-Tauk,   and    again    behind 


ARRIVAL  AT  HILLAH.  87 

Musseyib,  its  course  is  through  a  flat  but  populous    chap. 
country,  the  people  dwelling  partially  in  tents,  but  ^ — ^ — * 
more  frequently  inhabiting  clay-built  houses. 

There  was  some  deby  in  getting  the  bridge  opened 
for  us,  and  a  good  deal  of  annoyance  afterwards  from 
two  or  three  men,  who  forced  themselves  into  our 
boat,  apparently  with  the  intention  of  taking  possession 
of  her,  and  remained  on  board  imtil  we  reached  the 
Mounds  of  Babel.     The  lights  of  Hillah  were   now  The 

.  .  .       Moundi 

visible,  but  as  a  good  deal  of  firing  was  going  on  in  of  Babel, 
and  around  the  town,  we  thought  it  prudent  to  remain 
where  we  w^ere  for  the  night.  Morning  brought  a 
cessation  of  the  desultory  warfare  which  was  going 
on  between  the  Pacha's  troops  and  the  people  of 
Ilillah,  to  which  place  I  now  proceeded,  and  found,  Amre  at 

TT'll     1, 

on  my  arrival.  Major  Taylor's  pretty  little  schooner 
ready  for  my  reception.  I  consequently  discharged 
ray  native  boat,  and  made  immediate  preparations 
for  continuing  my  descent.  Letters  to  the  Arab  sheikhs 
along  the  river  were  all-important ;  I  therefore  made 
my  way  through  the  excited  populace  to  the  cas- 
tellated barracks,  where  I  found  my  friend  Martinelli,* 
who,  being  one  of  the  Pacha's  most  confidential 
officers,  had  the  means  of  rendering  me  valuable 
assistance. 

During  the  imavoidable  delay  attending  the  pre-  visit 
paration  of  these  letters,  I  devoted  two  days  to  the  Babylon. 
ruins  of  Babylon,  accompanied  by  Signor  Martinelli, 
whose  local  knowledge  and  practical  experience  ren- 
dered him    an  admirable  guide.     The  most  remark- 

•  Martinelli  held  an  important  employment  under  the  Pacha  of  Baj^ad 
when  I  reached  that  city  in  1831. 


88  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,    able  remains  of  the  great  primeval  city  are  at  a  short 
^ — r — '  distance  inland  from  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and 


Babylon     here  three  of   the  four   great   quarters   of  Babylon 
rcmainfl.     cau  Still  be  traccd — viz.,  Amram,  the  Kasr,  and  the 

Mujellebeh. 
Four  quar-      Hcimar  is  supposed  to  be  the  fourth  quarter  of  the 
city.  city,  although  its  distance  of  six  miles  from  the  river 

has  thrown  some  doubt  on  its  identification.  This  por- 
tion now  presents  merely  a  mass  of  undistinguishable 
ruuis,  with  the  single  exception  of  a  tower,  which  bears 
some  resemblance  to  the  famous  Birs,  though  on  a 
much  smaller  scale.  We  visited  the  other  three  quarters 
in  succession,  going  from  south  to  noith.  Amram  came 
first — it  consists  of  an  extensive  quadrangular  mound ; 
next  to  this  is  Jim-Jimma,  and  more  to  the  north, 
again,  are  some  considerable  and  almost  circular 
The  Kasr.  moimds.  Beyoud  these  we  come  to  the  Kasr,  or 
palace,  the  site  of  which  is  marked  by  numerous 
fragments  of  glass,  and  of  ornamented  stucco-work. 
Here  also  are  the  massive  square  buttresses  of  the 
Hanging  Gardens,  which  have  for  centuries  resisted  the 
eflects  of  time,  and  wiU  continue  to  endure  for  ages 
to  come — being  constructed  of  the  finest  yellow 
bricks,  united  by  a  peculiarly  durable  kind  of  cement. 
A  single  tree  of  the  cedar  family  still  remains,  and 
reminds  the  traveller,  by  its  loneliness,  that  *  Babylon 
the  Great  has  fallen  ! ' 
The  Ma-  To  the .  wcst  of  thcsc  remains  of  the  celebrated 
jeUeWh.  gardens  is  the  Mujellebeh,  once  Babel.  A  very  re 
markable  feature  in  this  portion  of  the  ruins  is  a  pro- 
jecting work  placed  below  the  summit  of  each  angle, 
in  the  form  of  three  semicircular  towers   connected 


LIONS    DE5  AT  BABYLON.  89 

together,  and  giving  what  in  modern  times  would  be  a  chap. 
flanking  defence.  Some  apertures,  leading  into  de-  ^  ^'  ^» 
scending  passages,  appear  here  and  there  on  the  surface 
of  this  mound ;  one  of  which,  near  its  northern  face,  is  The  Liom' 
well  known  as  the  '  Lions'  Den.'  I  had  gone  down  this 
passage  for  some  distance  without  any  idea  of  danger, 
when  the  unmistakable  odour  of  wild  beasts  made  me 
retrace  my  steps  with  all  speed,  lest  I  should  encounter 
another  lion  in  closer  quarters  than  the  one  I  had  seen 
from  the  raft.  My  examination  of  this  subterranean  pas- 
gage  was  necessarily  imperfect ;  but  as  I  had  descended 
leisurely,  I  had  been  able  to  ascertain  that  its  sides  were 
fonned  by  solid  brick  walls  cemented  with  bitumen,  and 
that  it  was  arched  overhead — thus  proving  that  the  know- 
ledge of  the  arch  in  architecture  goes  back  to  the  very 
earliest  periods. 

The  Mujellebeh  presents  an  oblong  figure,  its  sides 
nearly  corresponding  to  the  four  cardinal  points.     The  Dimen- 
two  longer  ones  face  the  north  and  south,  and  are  each  JheM^jei- 
200  yards  long,  and  the  shorter  ones  are,  respectively,  ^® 
180  yards  to  the  east,  and  130  yards  to  the  west,  in 
length.     The  summit  of  the  mound  is  now  somewhat 
irregular  in  point  of  elevation.     It  measures  180  feet 
at  its  highest  point,  and  130  feet  at  the  lowest,  where  it 
lias  been  worn  away  by  time,  and  the  influence  of  the 
atmosphere,  &c.     It  is  impossible  to  convey  an  impres-  Babylon 
sion,  by  any  such  description  as  the  above,  of  the  deep  ^^te. 
interest  attaching  to  these  ruins,  which  '  will  never  more 
be  inhabited,  neither  shall  the  Arabian  pitch  his  tent 
there,  but  wild  beasts  and  doleful  creatures  shall  dwell 
there ; '  *  and  the  present  desolation  of  this  spot,  so 

•  iMuah  xiii.  20—22. 


90 


NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  BXPEDITIOX. 


V. 


Warfare 
at  Ilillah 


CHAP,  faithfully  pictured  by  the  Prophet,  when  contrasted 
witli  tlic  fertility  of  the  surrounding  country,  fills  the 
mind  with  solemn  thoughts  of  the  exact  fiilfilment  of 
propliecy,  which  meets  us  so  strikingly  in  many  in- 
stances in  the  Eiist,  but  nowhere  so  forcibly  as  when 
standing  amidst  the  mins  of  Babylon. 

Firing  still  continued  at  Hillah,  especially  at  night, 
and  I  had  moved  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  in 
the  hope  of  quiet ;  but  the  Ixdls  were  continually  flying 
over  me,  although  I  found  that,  when  lying  down,  I 
was  sufficiently  below  their  Une  to  be  secure  irom 
danger.  The  annoyance,  however,  w^as  considerable, 
but,  my  crew  being  absent,  I  had  no  alternative  but  to 
remain  idong^ide  the  jetty  until  morning.  Meantime, 
Signor  Martinelli  had  procured  the  requisite  letters  to 
tlie  authorities  along  the  river ;  and  my  few  preparations 
for  defence  being  completed,  I  prepared  to  leave 
Ilillah,  my  little  caiiji  passing  tlnrough  its  floating 
bridge,  and  piu'suing  its  way  down-stream,  which  is 
here  both  deep  and  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  numerous 
villages,  surrounded  by  gardens,  and  almost  hidden  by 
luxuriant  date-groves.  Notwithstanding  many  irri- 
gating channels,  for  purposes  of  cultivation,  and  the 
two  more  considerable  diverging  canals — that  of  Sidra 
Shatt,  going  to  Samania,  and  the  Yusufiyeh,  to  New 
I^amlum — the  river  maintains  a  depth  of  fiiUy  12  feet, 
and  an  average  width  of  160  yards,  between  Hillah 
Diwanyah.  and  Diwauyah.  This  place  is  75^  miles  below  Hillah, 
and  has  a  floating  bridge,  and  about  1,200  houses.  Here 
we  were  dehiyed  for  one  day  by  a  \iolent  breeze, 
almost  amounting  to  a  storm ;  but  as  soon  as  it  subsided, 
w^e   rasumed   our  coui^e.  the   livei*   below  Diwanyah 


Ij<»nve 
Uillah. 


Dcpocnt 
fr.-»m  nil 
lah. 


NEW   LAMLUM.  91 

barely  exceeding  120  yards  in  width,  but  still  keeping    chap. 
its  depth  of  12  feet,  as  far  as  its  bifiu-cation  at  Old 


I 


Lamlum ;    w^hich   was  once   the  Chaldean  Lake,  the  ^^^  ^'^^ 
waters  of  which  extended,  at  the  height  of  the  season 
of  flood,  to  the  rising  ground  at  El-Kai'ayem. 

We  were  provided  with  a  letter,  which  we  hoped 
would  ensure  ci\ility  from  the  redoubted  Khezail,  a 
tribe  of  Sliiahs  from  the  heart  of  Persia,  who  inhabit 
the  country  adjoining  tliis  part  of  the  river ;  and  we 
therefore  ventured  to  follow  its  principal  branch, 
having  made,  by  its  windings,  27  miles  to  New 
Lamlum. 

This  singular  town  contains,  during  the  flood -season,  Descrip- 
some  400  huts,  neatly  constructed  entirely  of  reeds ;  but  -sew* 
at  the  moment  of  my  arrival,  the  somewhat  unusual  ^™^^"" 
height  of  the  river  had  forced  its  inhabitants  to  go 
elsewhere ;  and  we  found  them  hastily  removing  their 
portable  dweUings  to  more  secure  sites,  and  transport- 
ing their  women  and  childi'en  in  their  canoes,  which 
are  constructed  of  very  light  materials,  and  covered 
with  bitumen,  and  can  be  paddled  along  with  great 
speed.    A  few  of  these]  curious  mat-houses,  however, 
still  remained,  on  spots  imcovered  by  the  water,  and 
that  of  the  Sheikh,  who  was  absent  at  the  time,  was 
Among  them. 

Thus  fiff,  all  had  been  smooth.  But  we  were  now 
in  the  midst  of  the  followers  of  Ali,  who,  in  the 
absence  of  their  Sheikh,  soon  showed  an  inclination  to 
make  the  most  of  what,  they  said, '  God  had  sent.' 
During  the  afternoon  they  made  forced  exactions,  in  Annoy- 

1  •   1     »"ce«  at 

The  shape  of  coffee,  sugar,  clothes,  and  money — which  Lomium. 
ecame  more  and  more  decided,  as  the  day  wore  on, 


92  KARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    until  my  death  even  was  threatened  if  their  demands 
"^ — ^ — '  were  not  satisfied  in  the  morning.     Although  money 
Exactions  rather  than  blood  was  their  object,  my  reduced  means 
Shiahs.       made  it  almost  impossible  to  satisfy  them,  when  the 
Sheikh's  return  during  the  night  so  far  improved  my 
position,  that  after  making  a  search,  and  taking  the 
remnants  of  my  money  and   other  things — ^with  the 
exception  of  a  mere  trifle  of  silver  and  my  watch, 
which  escaped  owing  to  its  being  accidentally  beneath 
a  towel — ^he  allowed  my  boat  to  proceed,  one  of  the 
tribe  being  sent  with  us  as  far  as  El-Karayem. 
rpjjg  At  this  place  the  two  branches  of  the  river,  which 

Er-Kiu«.    separate  at  Lamlum,  reunite,  and  here  also  the  marshes 
yem.         terminate,  and  with  them  the  singular  tract  of  country 
belonging  to  the  Khezail.      After  the  junction  of  its 
two  arms  of  water  at  El-Karayem,  the  Euphrates  re- 
sumes its  former  grandeur,  and  at  El-Khudhr,  which  is 
49^  miles  from  Lamlum,  it  is  already  200  yards  wide. 
In  its  onward  course   it  forms   several  islands,   and, 
with  some  increase  to  its  waters,  flows  through  a  fertile 
country — its  banks  studded  with  numerous  villages  of 
either  mats  or   tents,   embosomed  in  luxuriant  date- 
groves. 
Storm  at        At  oue  placc  (El  Arja),  we  encountered  a  sudden 
The  canji    gust  of  wiud,  wliich  placcd  the  canji  in  some  danger, 
su  merg  .  gj^^  ^^  lying  aloug  the  bank,  and  I  was  alone  in  the 

cabin,  when  a  sudden  squall  caused  her  to  roll  so  much 
that  the  cabin  was  filled  with  water — so  instantaneously, 
that  I  had  only  time  to  gather  up  my  papers  and  jump 
on  shore,  when  she  went  down. 

Happily,  the  storm  was  of  but  short  duration ;  and 
the  boat  having   been  baled  out,  we  continued  the 


ABRIVAL  AT   KURXAH.  93 

descent  to  Sheikh-el-Shuyukh,  an  important  town  per-     chap. 
manently  occupied  by  the  Arabs.     It  is  64.^  miles  from  - 


EI-Khudhr,  and  contains  about  1,500  houses,  built,  as  Ihujdth." 
usual,  of  clay,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river. 

Here  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  Mr. 
Stocqueler,*  lately  editor  of  the  'Bengal  Hurkaru,' 
from  whom  I  received  intelligence  of  Major  Taylor, 
and  heard  of  the  spread  of  the  plague  amongst  his  suite 
and  elsewhere. 

Our  descending  voyage  was  resumed  next  morning, 
and  the  following  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Kumah,  a  Reach 
considerable  town  occupying  the  apex  of  the  triangle 
between  the  two  great  rivers  Prat  and  Diglath.     It  is 
admirably  situated  for  commerce,  as  well  as  for  the 
defence  of  the  approach  to  both  rivers.     It  is  only 
6 24   niiles  from  Sheikh-el-Shuyukh.     The  portion  of  Euphrau* 
the  river  just  described  usually  exceeds  260  yards  in  ^    ^^** 
width,  with  a  depth  of  about  18  feet.     It  is  fringed 
with  a  rich  belt  of  date-trees,*}'  overshado\ving  numerous 
villages. 

A  little  below  Kumah,  the  united  waters  of  the  two 
great  rivers,  now  the  Shatt-el-Arab,  receive  the  Kerah 
or  Kerkhah,  a  considerable  stream  having  its  soinrce 
in  the  mountains  of  Ardelan. 

After  this  accession  to  its  waters,  the  course  of  the  Dat*^ 
Shatt  is  south  34**  east,  as  it  flows  on  between  date-  Se  nver- 
groves  and  villages  to  Basrah,  carrying  a  depth  of  21 
feet,  with  an  average  width  of  600  yards. 

I  found  a  Turkish   man-of-war   and  some  English 

•  Now  Mr.  J.  H.  Siddons.  As  Mr.  Stoqueler  he  published  several 
works  on  Indian  affairs. 

t  The  dates  produced  along  this  part  of  the  river  are  considered  the 
fineivt  in  the  world. 


groves  on 
the  ri^ 
bank. 


94  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,    vessels  anchored  off  Basrah,  and  my  httle  boat  followed 
- — ri — '  the  course  of  the  winding  canal  leading  to  the  Eesidencv, 


Vessels  off  where  unpleasant  news  awaited  me. 

Basrah.  '•  ^  ^ 

The  anxiety  which  I  had  felt  respecting  the  welfiire 
of  Major  Taylor's  family,  ever  since  I  had  separated 
from  them  at  Bagdad,  proved  to  have  been  well- 
founded,  for  I  now  learnt  that  there  had  been  cases  of 
plague,  and  even  death,  in  each  of  their  boats.  This 
terrible  scourge  had  now  reached  Basrah  also,  and 
Spread  of  seemed  to  be  spreading  in  all  directions,  which  greatly 
increased  my  difficulties. 

One  very  important  object  had  been  attained — the 
Lower  Euphrates  had  been  sm:veyed,  but  the  state 
of  the  upper  part  of  the  river  still  remained  to  be 
ascertained ;  and  the  direct  route  being  no  longer  avail- 
able, on  account  of  the  plague,  I  turned  my  attention  to 
another  line,  and  made  my  preparations  for  following 
the  route  by  Bushire,  in  order  to  carry  out  my  original 
purpose. 
About  to  My  preparations  being  made,  and  a  farewell  visit  paid 
Bushire.  to  the  Taylor  family  at  Maghil,  I  left  Basrah  in  a  fast- 
saiUng  Persian  boat,  and  following  the  tidal  waters 
of  the  Shatt  to  its  estuary,  we  crossed  the  upper  part 
of  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  anchored  in  Bushire  Eoads 
tow^ards  the  evening  of  May  5.  Here,  however,  I  was 
to  encounter  fresh  difficulties.  An  armed  boat  came  to 
us  at  once  from  the  Persian  guard-ship,*  to  forbid  our 
landing,  since  we  had  come  from  a  plague-infected 
locality ;  and  I  thus  found  myself  again  placed  in  a 
difficult  and  embarrassing  situation. 

•  The  '  Sheikh  Ali  of  Rousfioul.' 


95 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ASCENT  AND  DESCENT  OF  THE  RIVER  KARUN — JOURNEY  THROUGH 
PERSIA  AND  ASIA  MINOR — EXAMINATION  OP  THE  COUNTRIES  BORDER- 
ING  ON  THE   UPPER  EUPHRATES. 

The  circumstances  in  which  I  now  found  myself  placed    chap. 


scarcely  seemed  to  leave  me  any  re^^ource  whatever. 

The    routes   by  Bushire   and  through    Arabia  were  Bifficuitiwi 

•^  *-*  attending 

equally  cut  off,  by  the  prevalence  of  plague,  and  the  a  journey 

!•  1*    •         •        1       1  1  through 

alternative  of  living  in  the  boat  was  not  by  any  means  Persia. 
an  agreeable  one.  Happily,  however,  one  other  course 
remained  open  to  me.  The  Eesidency  boat  anchored 
within  speaking  distance  next  morning,  and  brought 
me  a  message  from  Captain  Hennell,  to  the  effect  that, 
as  Persia  was  still  open  in  another  direction,  my  home- 
ward journey  might  still  be  accomplished  through 
Shuster,  and  that  he  was  ready  to  secure  boatmen  and 
make  all  necessary  arrangements  for  me.  I  accor- 
dinfflv  recrossed  the  Persian  Gulf  to  Mohammerah,  Proceed  to 

^  -^  ^  '   Moham- 

which   was  fortunately   still  free   from   plague,    and  merah. 
therefore  available  as  a  starting-point. 

Mohammerah  contains  about  800  houses,  built  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Kariin,  close  to  its  junction  with 
the  Frat ;  it  is  a  depot  for  the  trade  of  Southern  Persia, 
and  therefore  promised  to  afford  the  means  of  furthering 
my  plans.  A  letter  of  credit  on  Shuster  was  speedily 
obtained,  a  swift  boat  engaged,  and  with  exhilarated 


96  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    spirits  I  commenced  my  voyage  up  the  Kariiii.     Tliree 
days  of  alternate  sailing  and  tracking  along  the  bank 


Samania.  brought  US  to  the  Small  town  of  Samania,  a  distance  of 
45  miles :  thus  far  the  river  was  deep  and  free  from 
impediments,  with  a  width  of  from  250  to  300  yards. 
But  from  this  point  I  decided  to  proceed  by  land,  to 
avoid  the  loss  of  time  ine\itable  in  following  the  tortu- 
ous windings  of  the  river,  notwithstanding  the  prc- 
vaihng  great  heat,  now  extreme ;  and  four  well-anned 
men  being  engaged,  w^e  rode  across  the  country  to 

Ahwa*.  Ahwaz,  on  the  Kariin.  I  carefully  examined  the 
rocky  impediments  to  its  navigation,  and  resumed  my 

Band-i-      joumey  by  land,  reaching  the  ferry  across  the  river 
.  at  Band-i-kir  about  noon  next  day. 

Robbed  Here  I  discovered,  to  my  cost,  that  my  escort  had 

e^;^,  come  with  an  object  of  their  own.  Whilst  waiting 
for  the  ferry-boat  under  the  shade  of  a  carob-tree, 
they  decamped,  taking  with  them  my  pistols,  and 
part  of  my  clothes,  containing  my  supply  of  cash. 
My  position  on  reaching  the  town,  under  these  cir- 
cumstances, was  not  very  enviable ;  but  at  length,  by 
leaving  some  of  my  wearing-apparel  as  security  for 

shuflter.  payment,  I  obtained  horses  to  take  me  to  Sinister  the 
next  day.  Here  I  took  up  my  quarters  in  the  Great 
Khan.  My  letter  of  credit  enabled  me  to  obtain 
a  sufficient  supply  to  pay  for  the  horses  and  release 
my  clothes ;  but  beyond  this  there  vias  a  great  diffi- 
culty about  money,  and  I  had  to  give  up  my  watch 
in  order  to  obtain  a  verj^  small,  itnmediate  supply  of 
cash.  The  city,  however,  was  free  from  plague,  and 
after  a  few  days'  delay  my  financial  difficulties  were  all 


CITY   OF  SHUSTER.  97 

relieved  by  the  kindness  of  the  governor,*  who  also     ciiap. 


allotted  to  me  a  '  surdab,'  or  underground  apartment,  - — r-^ — ' 
where  I  was  enabled  to  carry  on  my  work  of  laying  Map  of  the 
down  a  map  of  the  river  with  comparatively  little  in-  down. 
convenience  from  the  great  heat.    The  town  of  Shuster, 
however,  did  not  furnish  any  kind  of  table ;  but  the 
lid  of  the  map -case,  and  parts  of  the  tent-poles,  put 
together  by  a  Persian  cai'penter,  answered  the  purpose. 
My  work  went  on  uninterruptedly  until  June  2,  when  a 
map  of  the  lower  part  of  the  Euphrates  (on  a  scale  of  two  Mnpofthe 
inches  to  a  mile)  was  forwarded,  through  Major  Taylor,  j£upfirat<»s 
to  our  ambassador  at  Constantinople,  Sir  Eobert  Gordon.  **"''  **'^"®' 

I  had  to  wait  at  Shuster  for  the  departure  of  the 
caravan  for  Kermanshah,  and  was  thus  enabled,  after 
despatching  my  map  to  England,  to  see  something  of 
this  interesting  town  and  its  environs.  It  occupies  a  Descrip- 
very  striking  position  between  the  two  principal  arms  shuster. 
of  the  £aruD,  and  the  ingenious  works  which  have 
been  constructed  to  give  a  supply  of  water  to  the  city, 
are  of  great  interest. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  (in  1831)  Shuster  contained  itspopuia. 
about  15,000  inhabitants,  but  the  subsequent  ravages 
of  the  plague  had  scarcely  left  half  this  number  at  the 
dose  of  1840. 

Many  of  the  buildings — such  as  the  great  mosque  BuiWinga. 
with  its  four  minarehs,  and  the  bazaars — are  deserving 
of  special  attention.  The  houses  are  solidly  built,  and 
usually  have  the  important  addition  of  badgirs,'  or  wind- 
towers.  These  are  carried  well  above  the  houses,  and 
have  vertical  apertures  on  each  of  the  four  sides,  with 
interior  cross-divisions  for  the  purpose  of  sending  down 

*  Mirza  Abdallah  Begl^r  Beggie. 

H 


98  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

the  cooler  air  to  the  subterranean  apartment,  which 

thus  obtains  a  more  moderate  temperature  during  the 

heat  of  the  day.*     The  two  branches  of  the  Karun 

surround  the  city,  as  it  were.     The  western  arm  rises 

TheKoh-i-  in  the  Koh-i-zerd,  and  flows  through  the  western  part  of 

tain  and     the  towu,  and  ouwards  to  Band-i-Kir,  where  it  is  joined 

gap  river,    by  the  castem  arm,  known  as  the  Abi-Gargar.     This 

latter   branch   continues    its   course   eastward,  passes 

between  the  city  and  its  suburbs,  and  eventually  joins 

the  western  arm  at  Band-i-Kir. 

Several  of  the  '  kanats/  or  underground  canals,  for 
which  Persia  is  so  remarkable,  terminate  at  Shuster, 
after  a  very  lengthened  course.  They  are  frequently 
carried  at  a  considerable  depth  beneath  the  surface, 
sometimes  exceeding  100  feet. 
Water-  The  towu  also  contains  several  watermills,  by  means 

Shmiter.  of  which  part  of  the  waters  of  the  western  branch  of 
the  Karun  are  raised  to  the  higher  level  of  the  Abi- 
Gargar,  into  which  they  are  carried  through  channels 
cut  through  the  rock,  after  supplying  the  higher 
portions  of  the  city. 

Besides  these   extensive  waterworks.  Shah  Shapur 
constructed  the  vast  reservoir  here,  known  as  the  Sha- 
Th«  dervan,  as  well  as  the  great '  bimd  '  (or  dyke)  which 

bears  his  name.  The  handsome  bridge  built  upon  this 
mound,  under  which  the  water  passes,  was  also  the 
work  of  this  monarch,  whose  comprehensive  genius 
did  so  much  for  the  improvement  of  his  people. 

After  exploring  Shuster,  my  object  was  to  visit  the 
interior  of  Khuzistan,  and  especially  to  see  something 

•  I  found  10®  of  difference  between  the  temperature  of  the  ordinary 
apartments  and  that  of  the  'surdab/  or  subterranean  apartment. 


•bimd.' 


BEMAI5S  OF  SHUSHAN.  99 

of  the   higher  portions  of  those  rivers,  whose    em-     chap. 
bouchures  I  had  passed  during  my  recent  ascent  of  the  ^ — r^ — ' 


Karun.  I  therefore  joined  a  small  caravan  destined  for 
Dizful,  and  crossed  the  Abi-zal,  a  tributary  of  the  Abi-zai 
Eiver  Diz.  We  traversed  a  cultivated  plain,  and  towards 
evening  saw  Dizful  rising  above  the  left  bank  of  the  ^^>^^^ 
former  river.  We  entered  the  city  by  a  fine  bridge. 
A  house,  with  the  almost  indispensable  luxury  of  a 
*  surdab,'  was  immediately  allotted  by  the  governor  for 
my  accommodation,  and  I  had  the  means  of  examining 
the  capital  of  Khuzistan  and  its  neighbourhood  with 
every  advantage. 

The  site  of  the  capital  of  the  once  mighty  Empire  of  site  of 
Assyria  was,  naturally,  a  leading  object  of  interest  to 
me ;  and  when  still  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four 
miles  from  Dizful,  the  remains  of  Shushan  appeared, 
rising  above  the  plain  like  a  flat-topped  mountain,  with 
quite  a  range  of  lower  hills  stretching  from  it  towards 
the  SW. 

Even  their  distant  view  was  very  impressive;  but 
when  seen  from  the  great  platform  of  the  mound  it- 
self, these  vast  ruins  could  not  be  contemplated  with-  it«  nuns. 
out  feelings  almost  amounting  to  awe.  They  have, 
however,  been  too  often  and  too  well  described  to  need 
more  than  a  cursory  notice  here.  A  general  idea  of 
their  grandeur  may  be  conveyed  to  the  reader  by  the 
fact  that  the  dimensions  of  the  mound,  by  my  pacing, 
were  1,700  yards  long  by  570  yards  wide,  and  that 
its  extreme  slope  from  the  ground  was  170  feet  at  an 
angle  of  70^.*     The  fragments  of  bricks,   tiles,   and 

•  Plate  XXXn.  vol.  ii.  of '  Euphrates  Expedition '  is  from  a  sketch 
taken  on  the  spot. 

u  2 


^r*{*  ^jjs^^:t:vi,  ur  tez  zx?sLm&  ixpcditiox. 


.■X 


T»:ci2rr  re  "n^irh:  'ziratisnL  irset  ciiwis)  with  which  it 
WB*  srevT^  JL  anfrhiinL  ii-  5&  fsa^  sk:pe.  prore  that  it 
:^  EL  crm'^L  nozxLisiL  V  ii'yn-^rr-r'f**^^  miiis.  probably 
iii:»r  cjc  SnsiiHL  ziit  I'iifcr^r    3K>Tr  So?);  whilst  to  a 

foctthward,  and  at 
^  the  plain,  extend 


^  :c  -rit^riaiaif.  -will  Sfeccr-ferrowed  ades  and  a 
:  ^crssL  iTiL-CTrr  mn  liie  jpmain<  of  the  once 

C»L  iiif  "iriLzi  :c  ibr  SJiifc^cr.  wri^  wft^^es  the  base 
:c  ^fiif  £rf*:  ^lucidL  2*-  ii^  iiznrcg  looib  erf*  DanieL  At 
i:»f  "iziif  :c  ZLT  t:s:i  r:  >£I  -xciii^zied  the  Uaek  stone, 
wji  is-  rfTTiirkLrAtf^  rcilzirail  iufcnpcioiu  which  was 
jfrfTViri'  Cij:irr  v  joe^^?  tnr  50CDe  Persian  fanatic, 
j=Sv  i.:  5i:nji  fiZ  ir^j-  ib?  ^ii>S?  of  a  Giaour;  for  the 
c^ltf  Trf'Ti^el  iau  jc:  iKsr^zc  bad  been  made  to 
rf!i:«:T^  i^  :z^  rrifcrr  *:  j^eai  is  «>  Str  Bobert  Gordon, 
ibi^  x:  CcQgCk^fzi:cof.>  I  iji  roc  mvseif  see  the  stone, 
5:1:.  c^ri^r^  t:  ii»r  ^xicaDC^  cc  pi*gue  in  the  vicinity, 
rrT:?I»f!i»>»  jui.-ii.'ei  ai«e  5c  hih  cc  ibe  threshold  of  the 

Ftesje^i  ijni  izircessjei  rr  nT  examination  of  the 
$t:e  .c  ?c  ,::s\tT...  I  rtfcr*oei  ray  seeps  towards  Dizful, 
be:  r«icc*c>I ::  w:ij:  <cQ«r  ItSctihT,  owin^  to  a  feeling 


l^jbMd^M  vvf  -.,j>e^  W2x-;X  jxr^-at?^  :ow:t:u5  ibe  end  of  mv  ride : 
^ujftvl  f  :Ni:2^  :ttTs^fi:  :?cll  wtt^vij  ^lex:  morning,  I  sought 
lh<^  *i\  XV  .^^  :^e  £r?t  3«c5caL  aan  of  the  city.  On  per- 


vx^v.^^a:  r^y  :i!5s?atiijis«^  >f  otledoat.  and  repeated  most 
<tK  r5^v^x>i:\\  -  Xo  vit^jje :  ^  and  having  used  his  lancet 
;PK^o>h  ^^5  f.v^Y,  he  iKwwded  wiUi  medical  treatment, 
>KhKN  vi;*,^  v\>«;:5t,;:s\l  ;£::  tie  aMfcrk— whether  ordinary 


100 


NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
VI. 


Tomb  of 
Daniel. 


Hhiew  at 
DUfiil. 


pottery  (of  bright  blue  and  green  colours)  with  which  it 
was  strewn,  in  addition  to  its  steep  slope,  prove  that  it 
is  an  artificial  mountain  of  accumulated  ruins,  probably 
those  of  Shushan  the  Palace  (now  Sus) ;  whilst  to  a 
distance  of  some  three  miles  to  the  southward,  and  at 
an  average  height  of  eight  feet  above  the  plain,  extend 
ranges  of  elevations  with  deeply-furrowed  sides  and  a 
serrated  crest,  marking  out  the  remains  of  the  once 
splendid  capital  of  127  provinces. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Shapur,  which  washes  the  base 
of  the  great  mound,  is  the  famous  tomb  of  Daniel.  At 
the  time  of  my  visit  it  still  contained  the  black  stone, 
with  its  remarkable  bilingual  inscription,  which  was 
afterwards  blown  to  pieces  by  some  Persian  fanatic, 
lest  it  should  fall  into  the  hands  of  a  Giaour ;  for  the 
belief  prevailed  that  an  attempt  had  been  made  to 
remove  it,  in  order  to  send  it  to  Sir  Robert  Gordon, 
then  at  Constantinople.  I  did  not  myself  see  the  stone, 
for,  owing  to  the  existence  of  plague  in  the  vicinity, 
prudence  induced  me  to  halt  on  the  threshold  of  the 
tomb. 

Pleased  and  impressed  by  my  examination  of  the 
site  of  Shushan,  I  retraced  my  steps  towards  Dizful, 
but  reached  it  with  some  difficulty,  owing  to  a  feehng 
of  illness  which  increased  towards  the  end  of  my  ride ; 
and  finding  myself  still  worse  next  morning,  I  sought 
the  advice  of  the  first  medical  man  of  the  city.  On  per- 
ceiving my  uneasiness,  he  caUedout,  and  repeated  most 
energetically,  *  No  plague ; '  and  having  used  his  lancet 
somewhat  freely,  he  proceeded  with  medical  treatment, 
which  was  continued  till  the  attack — ^whether  ordinary 


DESCENT  OF  THE  EABUM.  101 

typhus-fever,  or  its  extreme  form  of  plague*  —  was    chap, 
overcome.     Happily,  there  soon  was  a  change  for  the ^ — ' 


better  when  I  returaed  to  Shuster ;  but  finding  myself  Return  to 

,       ^  Shuster. 

scarcely  equal  to  a  land-joiu'ney,  I  obtained  a  country 
boat,  and  descended  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Karun  to 
Band-i-Kir.     Here  it  is  joined  by  the  western  arm,  and  Descent  to 

Band-i- 

shortly  afterwards,  their  united  waters  are  augmented  Kir. 
by  the  Eiver  Diz.  About  eight  miles  lower  down 
we  passed  the  small  town  of  Weis,  on  the  left  bank, 
opposite  to  which  is  the  dry  bed  of  a  river,  supposed 
to  have  been  once  part  of  the  channel  of  the  Shapur,  or 
Shawur.  Thence  the  descent  was  continued,  sometimes 
sailing,  at  other  times  being  tracked,  without  meeting 
any  impediment  until  we  reached  the  bund  at  Ahwaz  The  bund 
— which,  however,  was  passed  by  our  boat  f  without 
diflSiculty,  it  being  quite  under  water.  Beyond  this  we 
found  no  obstructions,  and  passing  the  second  dry 
channel  of  the  Shapur,  on  the  right  bank,  and  on  the 
following  day  the  considerable  town  of  Ismaili,  on  the 
left,  we  continued  to  drop  down  this  now  tortuous 
stream,  by  Kut-el-Omrah,  and  thence  to  Sablah,  a 
small  village  on  the  left  bank,  which  is  rather  remark- 
able, as  being  the  point  from  which  the  Kariin-el- 
Amarah  (or  Blind  Karun)  takes  its  departure.  This  The 
river  passes  the  town  of  Kaban  after  completing  two-  Amarah. 
thirds  of  its  course,  and  enters  the  sea  at  Dorakstan 
by  two  branches,  which  were  dry  at  this  season.  The 
fleet  of  Nearchus  must,  apparently,  have  ascended  by 

*  My  late  friend  Dr.  Baigrie^  whose  experience  of  plague  as  well  as 
tjphos  had  been  extensive,  regarded  the  former  as  the  extreme  stage  of 
^e  latter,  when  exposed  to  a  warm  climate.  Dr.  Baigrie  afterwaids  him- 
self feU  a  victim  to  the  terrible  disease,  while  devoting  himself  to  the  relief 
of  those  attacked  by  it.    His  treatment  was  often  eminently  successful. 

t  Tbe  boat  was  66  feet  long,  about  7  feet  beam,  and  drew  5  feet  water. 


102  NARRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     this  channel  to  Susa ;  but  its  fonner  waters  are  now 

VI 

conveyed,  by  a  fine   canal,   to  the  town  of  Dorak, 


Town  of 


Dowk.       whence  they  flow  into  the  Eiver  Jerahi, 

Continuing  our  descent  from  Sablah,  we  passed  luxu- 
riant and  almost  continuous  date-groves,  till  we  brought 
up  at  Mohammerah,  after  a  descent  of  about  230  miles 
from   Shuster  to   that  place.     A  little   short  of  the 
town,  the  Karun  makes  an  abrupt  turn,  almost  at  right- 
angles,  and  takes  a  south-easterly  course,  imder  the  name 
River  Bah-  of  the  Bah-a-Mishir,  till  it  falls  into  the  Persian  Gulf, 
•"^^•^^-     nearly  20  miles  to  the  eastward   of  the  Frit     This 
was  the  course  of  the  whole  body  of  water  of  the 
Lower  Karun,  until  the  skill  of  the  ancient  Persians  in 
the  management  of  water  enabled  them  to  make  a 
most  beneficial  change  by  cutting   the  Hafar  Canal, 
Cntmade    ^  uoblc   work  both   in  depth  and  width,   which  has 
Eiph^tes.  op^i^^d  ^  conamunication,  through  the  Euphrates,  to  or 
from  the  Indian  Ocean  on  the  one  side,  and  to  Mesopo- 
tamia on  the  other. 

Once   again  arrived  at  Mohammerah,  a   boat  was 

Arrival  at   quickly  obtained ;  and  in  four  days  more,  I  was  under  the 

hospitable  roof  of  the  Resident  at  Bushire,   Captain 

Hennell,  who  was  deeply  interested  in  the  ftirtherance 

of  the  Euphrates  question. 

Hitherto  my  wanderings  had  been  almost  entirely 
solitary,  but  a  companion  now  offered  to  join  me — De 
Borowski,  a  Pole,  who  had  recently  arrived  from  India 
to  seek  employment  in  the  Persian  service.*  Our 
joint  arrangements  in  providing  horses  and  mules  were 
soon  made,  and  on  July  27,  we  commenced  our  in- 
tended journey  of  about  830  miles  to  Tabiiz.     Our  first 

•  This  he  succeeded  in  obtaining,  and  eventually  lost  his  life  during 
the  protracted  siege  of  Herat  (1838). 


VALLEY  OF  SHAPUR.  108 

halting-place  was  the  khan  of  Doriky.    We  travelled  by    chap. 
night,  on  account  of  the  heat ;  and  after  leaving  Doriky,  - 


and  fording  the  Eut  Hana  river,  we  commenced  a  steep  ^"^• 
ascent  over  shelving  slippery  rocks,  with  here  and 
there  a  parapet- wall  on  the  side  of  the  precipice.  Four 
hours — through  rugged  rocks  and  other  impediments, 
so  great  that  this  passage  could  scarcely  be  forced  by  an 
invading  army — brought  us  to  Kamarij.  This  small  town  Kanury. 
contains  about  150  houses,  and  is  perched  almost  at  the 
summit  of  the  pass,  which  is  2,800  feet  above  the  plain. 
Descending  by  a  winding  road,  we  passed  the  villages 
of  Tungo-Turcun  and  Shapur.  The  latter  contains  ShapOr. 
barely  50  mud  dwellings,  on  the  site  of  the  once  great 
capital  of  Persia,  the  massive  sculptures  of  which  (accord- 
ing to  Morier)  still  occupy  a  space  of  six  miles  in  cir- 
cumference in  the  Valley  of  Shapur.  Judging  from 
the  figures  with  which  these  sculptures  are  ornamented 
in  relief,  they  would  appear  to  have  belonged  to  the 
highest  period  of  Persian  art  One  of  the  most  strik-  ColoMal 
ing  of  these  monuments  is  a  colossal  statue,  of  20  feet 
in  height,  which  is  lying  prostrate  in  a  spacious  cavern. 
In  addition  to  these,  there  are  other  remains  of  former 
times ;  for  numerous  air-shafts  along  the  valley  show 
that  a  line  of  *  kanats '  has  been  carried  beneath  its  sur- 
face from  the  site  of  ancient  Shapur  to  the  city  which 
appears  to  have  replaced  it — namely,  Kazerun.  This  KazerOii. 
place  occupies  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley,  and 
is  traversed  by  a  river  and  some  canals.  It  contains 
two  squares  and  three  mosques,  with  cupolas  sweUing 
outward  towards  the  base  in  the  Eoman  style,  and 
nearly  2,000  houses,  which  are  constructed  in  the  light 
open  style  of  architecture  so  general  in  Persia. 


104  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        Going  SSE.  from  Kazerun,  between  two  ranges  of 
' — r^—   rocky  mountains  about  a  mile  apart,  in  less  than  two 


hours  we  reached  the  tomb  (or  rather  monument) 
Tamer-  of  Tamerlane.  This  occupies  a  niche  in  the  rock 
tomb.  at  some  ten  paces  above  the  ground,  and  it  contains 
five  or  seven  figures  in  basreHef,  the  most  prominent 
of  which  is  Timur  himself  and  his  caillon  or  pipe- 
bearer.  The  prince  is  represented  grasping  a  Uon 
firmly  with  the  left  hand,  and  is  about  to  slay  the 
animal  with  a  hanger  which  he  holds  in  his  right 
The  other  figures  are  armed,  but  are  only  looking  on. 
Leaving  these  remains,  we  passed  a  small  lake  en- 
closed by  high  rocky  hills,  and  turned  northwards  up 
a  steep  zigzag  ascent,  having  sloping  ramps  at  intervals. 
Knrtai  This  brought  us  to  the  summit  of  the  lesser  Pass  of 
Kurtal,  from  which  we  descended  to  the  khan  of  the 
same  name,  by  a  shelving  rocky  path  bordered  by  trees 
on  both  sides.  This  khan  is  situated  at  an  elevation  of 
at  least  1,000  feet  above  the  plain.  Thence  we  had  to 
scale  the  higher  portion  of  the  Kurtal  Pass,  the  summit 
of  which  we  reached,  after  two  hours'  climbing  over 
shelving  and  often  rugged  rocks,  and  forthwith  com- 
menced the  descent.  At  some  distance  from  the 
summit  we  came  upon  an  abundant  stream,  flowing 
from  the  north-east,  and  subsequently  passed  through 
the  village  of  Disterge,  consisting  of  about  200  houses, 
and  the  khan  of  Zigan^,  to  the  plain,  and  proceeded 
Shira*.       ouwards  to  Shiraz. 

The  position  of  this  city  renders  it  very  striking.  It 
stands  in  the  centre  of  a  well-cultivated  mountain-basin 
in  the  midst  of  luxuriant  gardens  of  roses.  It  is  defended 
by  a  high  wall  flanked  by  semicircular  towers,  and 


i 


PROVINCB  or  FARS.  105 

contains  an  ark  or  citadel,  twelve  or  fifteen  mosques,     chap. 

VI 

extensive  bazaars,  numerous  caravanserais,  and  about  ' — r^ — ' 


40,000  inhabitants.     In  its  immediate  vicinity  is  the  Population 

tombofSadi.*  of  the  city. 

Shiraz,  although  holding  an  inferior  position  to  Tehe- 
ran, is  in  reahty  the  most  important  city  in  the  kingdom. 
It  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Fars,  or  Farsistan,  Prorinoe 
which  gives  its  name  to  the  modern  kingdom  of  Persia, 
and  contains  in  itself  more  places  of  historic  interest 
than  all  the  rest  of  the  Shah's  dotoinions.  Fars  has  a 
superficies  of  nearly  220  square  miles,  or  about  44,335 
geographical  miles,  and  is  defended  by  an  almost  con- 
tinuous barrier  of  lofty  and  rugged  moimtains. 

During  our  examination  of  Shiraz,  we  were  subjected  People  iu- 
to  some  little  annoyances  and  even  hostilities  from  the    "^^ 
common  people,  but  the  better  classes  seemed  to  be  kind 
and  hospitable.     We  visited,  among  others,  one  Hajji  visit  a 

PeiBi&n 

Mirza  Mahommed,  a  merchant,  whose  reception-room  merchant. 
was  approached  through  a  court  shaded  by  orange- 
trees.  The  room  was  tastefully  ornamented  with  stucco- 
work  and  stained-glass,  the  floor  was  covered  with  a 
carpet  from  Yezd,  and  the  table  with  a  rich  blue-and- 
white  cloth  from  the  same  city.  The  repast  commenced 
with  coffee  served  in  the  Turkish  style,  with  milk  and 
sugar  also.  This  was  followed  by  a  table  loaded  with 
melons,  peaches,  pears,  and  an  abundant  supply  of  very 
choice  sweetmeats.  Tea,  served  with  milk  and  sugar, 
followed  ;  and  when  taking  leave,  our  host  presented 
some  attar  of  rose  to  each,  and,  with  that  courtesy  which 
has  given  the  Persian  a  claim  to  be  regarded  as  the 
Frenchman  of  the  East,  expressed  his  disappointment 

*  See  Plate  XII.  in  vol.  i.  of '  Euphrates  Expedition.' 


106  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.     *  that  we  had  not  made  his  house  our  own,  and  that  we 

VI 

^ — r-^^^  had  not  given  him  an  opportunity  of  being  more  ser- 
viceable/ 

Our  stay  at  Shiraz  terminated  with  this  visit,  and 
we  started  in  pursuit  of  the  caravan,  which  had  left 
whilst  we  were  endeavouring  to  obtain  mules  for  our 

Tomb  of  baggage.  We  passed  the  tomb  of  Sadi,  and  examined 
its  rude  paintings,  one  of  which  represented  Abraham 
offering  up  Isaac;  and  proceeding  to  the  north-east, 
through  the  mountain  barrier,  we  traversed  rich  fields 
of  grain  and  of  the  castor-oil  plant,  and  halted  at  the 

Village  of  village  of  Zergan,  in  sight  of  Persepolis. 

Here  we  had  quite  a  scene  with  the  natives,  in  conse- 
quence   of  having    shghtly  cut  my  hand    whilst  at 

Cut  finger,  breakfast.  The  Persians  have  the  greatest  repugnance 
to  the  sight  of  blood,  and,  to  pacify  them  at  all,  I  was 
forced  to  abstain  from  breakfast  altogether ;  and  even 
after  that  concession  to  their  feelings,  we  had  great 
difficulty  in  inducing  the  four  men,  whom  we  had  en- 
gaged to  accompany  us  to  the  ruins,  to  go  with  us. 
They  talked  continually  of  impending  danger,  and  their 
fears  went  so  far  as  to  cause  two  of  our  escort  to  turn 
aside,  and  leave  us  almost  immediately.  We,  however, 
persevered  in  our  determination  to  visit  the  ruins,  which 
already  rose  before  us — ^the  remaias  of  the  matchless 

Ruins  of     Persepolis,   the   most   detailed   examination  of  which 

poiis.  only  deepened  our  first  impressions  of  their  great 
beauty.*  I  will  not,  however,  linger  over  their  well- 
known  description,  merely  mentioning  that  we  devoted 
the  greatest  care  and  attention  to  the  examination  of 

♦  Plates  LL  and  LII. '  Expedition  to  Euphrates  and  Tigris '  (vol.  ii. 
p.  620),  from  a  drawing  furnished  to  the  author  by  the  late  Colonel 
D'Arcy,  give  a  general  view  of  those  ruins. 


SETHEAT  OF  THE  TWO.  107 

the  site  of  this  city,  and  then  prepared  to  return  to    chap. 
Zergran.  - — r^^ — » 


As  we  were  crossing  the  adjoining  marsh — where 
we  disturbed  whole  flocks  of  cranes,  cygnets,  and 
flamingoes--our  meditations  on  the  ancient  Empire  of 
Persia  were  unpleasantly  interrupted  by  the  sight  of 
several  armed  men  coming  rapidly  towards  us  from 
some  higher  ground.  Borowski  was  a  little  in  advance, 
and  his  back  turned  towards  them.  I  shouted  to  him 
to  look  out  for  an  attack,  and  hastened  towards  him ; 
and  we  moved  on,  keeping  at  a  short  distance  from 
each  other,  prepared  for  mutual  protection.  We  were  Threat- 
each  menaced  by  six  men  in  the  one  case,  seven  in  the  Stack, 
other,  all  armed  with  bludgeons.  In  this  way  we 
passed  through  a  field  of  tall  standing  corn,  when  Borow- 
ski suddenly  called  out,  in  his  pecuhar  way,  that '  some 
gentlemen  were  coming  up  with  guns.'  Turning  round, 
I  saw  three  armed  men  hurrying  up  to  cross  our  path, 
but  we  just  managed  to  head  them,  although  Borowski 
was  all  but  cut  off;  and  thus  protecting  each  other,  we 
continued  the  *  retreat  of  the  two,'  as  my  companion 
expressively  called  it,  until  we  reached  the  village  in 
safety.  The  inhabitants  expressed  great  joy  at  our 
having  escaped  a  danger,  which  they  no  doubt  had  had 
a  share  in  preparing  for  us,  and  which  would  have 
verified  their  ominous  prognostications  of  the  morning. 

Our  caravan  was  augmented  by  an  escort  taking  a 
large  sum  of  money  to  the  royal  treasury  at  Teheran,  Treasure 
but  this  addition  proved  to  be  a  source   of  danger 
rather  than  of  security.     We  marched    during  the 
night,  and  our  first  halt  was  at  Mayen,  a  small  town  HiUt  at 
siUTOunded  by  walnut-trees,  and  having  a  range  of 


108  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    rocky  hills  on  either  side.     During  the  following  night 

' — r' — '  an  attack  was  made  on  the  Shah's  treasure,  and  his 

bags  of  tomans  had  been  almost  carried  off  by  armed 

Attempt  to  men,  when  the  screams  of 'Frangi — Frangi! '  from  the 

caravan,     eunuch  in  charge,  made  us  hasten  to  his  assistance. 

Our  party  soon  became  the  assailants  in  their  turn,  and 

the  robbers  ran  off,  leaving  three  guns,  some  donkeys, 

and  other  property  behind  them. 

May  en  contains  only  about  150  houses,  and  has  the 
usual  protection  of  a  circular  mud  wall.     Great  pre- 
cautions for  our  safety  were  taken,  on  resuming  our 
journey,  especially  while  skirting  a  succession  of  bare 
Kiizigan     rocky  hills.     During  the  night  we  passed  the  spacious 
madoya.     wcU-built  caravauscrais   of  Kuzigan  and  Chemadoya. 
The  latter,  as  well  as  the  siurounding  country,  had 
been  deserted,  in  consequence  of  the  inability  of  the 
Prince  of  Shiraz  to  protect  the  inhabitants  against  the 
exactions  of  his  elder  brother.  Abbas  Mirza. 
Ywsdi-  We  reached  Yezdiskast  by  daylight,  and  found  it 

to  be   a  remarkable   castellated   town,  occupying  an 
isolated  rocky  tongue  of  land,  about  600  yards  long 
itaposi-     by  150  yards  wide.     It  commands  the  opening  into 

tlOD. 

a  valley,  which  cuts  like  a  fissure  into  the  plain  we 
had  just  crossed.  The  walls  of  this  stronghold  rise 
about  250  feet  above  the  small  river  which  washes 
their  base,  and  is  crossed  by  narrow  drawbridges,  the 
only  means  of  access  to  the  place.  The  earthen 
ramparts  immediately  above  these  walls  bore  ample 
and  siege  marks  of  Abbas  Mirza's  recent  futile  attempts  to 
Mina.  reducc  the  town.  Being  destitute  of  artillery,  he 
sought  to  effect  a  breach  by  continuous  volleys 
of  musketry,  but,  as  may  be  supposed,  without  any 


A  BUSSIAN   EMPLOTfl.  109 

result,  beyond  that  of  a  useless  expenditure  of  am-    €Hap. 
munition.     We  were  not  allowed  to  enter  the  town  - — t^ — ' 


to  procure  food ;  our  supplies  were  therefore  limited 
to  a  few  pigeons,  killed  by  my  companion's  gun,  for 
supper ;  and  on  the  following  morning  we  reached  the 
considerable  town  of  Homisher,  and  put  up  at  a  com-  Homiiher 
modious  caravanserai,  built  (as  is  usual  in  this  part  of  ^ 
Persia)  of  sun-dried  bricks.  The  monotony  of  our 
journey  was  here  enhvened  by  a  meeting  with  Baron 
D'Acht,  a  Eussian  employ^,  wlio  had  halted  at  Homisher 
to  pay  his  respects  to  Abbas  Mirza.  We  spent  the 
evening  together,  after  which  we  resumed  our  journey, 
and  on  the  following  afternoon  we  were  cheered  by 
the  first  sight  of  the  glittering  cupolas  and  tapering  Ispahan 

1         A  -r       1  ftD<i  the  en- 

minarehs  of  Ispahan.  Tirona. 

Hospitahty  awaited  me  in  the  house  of  Padre 
Denderieh,  a  Eoman  Cathohc  priest,  and  under  his 
auspices  I  had  a  most  favourable  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  city  and  its  environs.  In  order  to  get  a  good 
general  coup-d'cHl  of  the  capital,  I  ascended  to  the 
gallery  of  the  Talat,  whence  a  most  extensive  pano- 
ramic view  is  obtained.     A  circular  rugged  mountain  Panoramic 

VlfiW  Ox 

barrier  forms  the  background  to  a  rich  plain  of  about  the  dty. 
29  miles  in  width.  This  plain  is  studded  in  every 
direction  with  towers,  which  I  ascertained  to  be  dove- 
cotes for  the  supply  of  the  city ;  while  its  surface  is 
pierced  with  openings  into  the  tunnels,  or  *kanats,* 
which  are  skilfully  constructed  underground,  in  order 
to  bring,  by  various  converging  lines,  the  requisite 
supply  of  water  for  the  town. 

In  the  city  itself  the  most  conspicuous  buildings,  as  Principal 
viewed  from  the  Talat,   are  its  two  strongholds   or  ofiapaUn. 


l^t  yACTnTTE  or  THE  ETPHRiTES  EIPEDinOX. 

:^      cr^ih:^..  sm:!  h-  seveL  rora]  palaces  and  their  garden?, 

-  '^^•'^  '^r  'J:ie!jej-ej-I^K:>rui  is  the  most  remarkable. 

I^-=:-"^'~t   sarevaiijez^ai?  and  some  miles  of  baaiars, 
■  '-i^rr^TirL  II  Uif  d2iT^  of  Shah  Abbas,  were  also  pro- 
ZLZs-Eu:  -  :Mrj:a.  af-  vcC  as  ihe  Maidan  Shah  or  Great 
>r-:isrT       iiu:   iiir  r-ijea  cupi^las  of   the    numerous 
r.  •*-.  L-tL  fWr.JTrc  :«u:  iC'wards  their  base,  were  the 
z^  =="  fTJziic  .♦"lyr^:?  ::l  I'nis  extended  picture.    The 
:-*rt- .--    r~=:   L-^lr-.-rll^  ^:il  ;:*  "winding  course,  and  crossed 
"^  :f   :  .:r    iir.'^t^  v-.±:l  ihr  ojir,  adds  much  to  the 

iii^urr  _.:  Hit  i  -eiit.  '~*hr  of  diese  bridges  is  a  fine 
fik'.l::.^  c  "Jjt  lersiLi  STrle  of  architecture.  It  islG4 
t-ltI.'  j-c^"  :  J  i!;^  Tiri  z.  infii.  and  rests  upon  25  very 
-^■::  ]K'.Lwl  LTv-iKs.  Ii:  lir  centre  is  a  very  wide 
•  'iCi'L  .iTTiLj—wiv.  iL'I  :c  eiiher  side  of  this,  at  a 
s.  cj:  ^:**.;  L^ijic  'evrl  ierr  are  k^xwavs,  also  protected 

--.  -  '•-*%.  ■    ~^  ■,■"—   "  •mH  «sr~—  c  '^T* 

Ti:    j^rr  .L^li  1. -K-rver,  on  cl'>?er  inspection,  de- 
sr^  ~?  :!-.   :l!-^':c  n^-^i  bv  ihe  more  distant  view. 
T: -.  :•:..-  -trel-ki:':  riJ'iras  And  D*.»ble  palaces  of  the 
:^-:  ;•;  S:-iJi  A:«:»as  ire  Lisieniiiii  to  deoav,  and  since 
TzljirLL  1:^  :e:-:'r:t  ;bc  sea:  of  the  Court,  even  the 
n:is^i:e?w  :tt.:l?w  hjL  oar&vanseriis  of  Ispahan  have  been 
licclecic-i      Thnr  hazaars  alone  still  retain  some  of  their 
AciriiT  Alii  life.     Those  portions  of  their  ex- 
re  oorertti-in   winding  streets   ^which  formerly 
A  space  of  three  miles)  which  are  still  iu- 
jlhitedy  have   full  employment  in  providing  for  the 
te  of  tiie  people,  although  the  population  had  dimi- 
fiv>m  600,000  in  the  time  of  Chardin,  to  less 
150,000  in  1S31. 
At  the  time  of  mr  vtit  to  Ispahan,  great  excitement 


WAS  BETWEEN   RUSSIA  AND   POLAND.  Ill 

prevailed,  in  consequence  of  a  victory  gained  by  the    chap. 
Poles  over  the  Russians,  which  was  then  deemed  to  be  ' — r^ — ' 
of  the  greatest  importance  to  the  future  of  Persia.    The  desigM* 
favourite   project  for  turning   this  to  account  was  a  ^^^^ 
combined  movement  of  the  Persian  and  Turkisli  forces, 
for  the  purpose  of  setting  Poland  free,  of  driving  the 
Russians  beyond  the  Caucasus,  and  of  regaining  the 
territories  lost,  in  later  times,  on  both  shores  of  the  Cas- 
pian.    My  companion  was  naturally  quite  carried  away 
by  this  prospect  of  the  resuscitation  of  Poland,  and  the 
brightest  visions  filled  his  enthusiastic  brain. 

On  September  3,  we  left  Ispahan  for  the  royal  camp.  Our  depa»- 
hoping  to  ascertain  whether  there  was  any  real  inten-  lapahan. 
tion  of  taking  part  in  the  Polish  war ;  visiting  the  tomb 
of  Baba,  and  the  trembling  tower,  on  our  way  to 
Amenabad,  the  site  of  the  royal  camp.     We  found  a  TheShah'i 
regiment  under  arms  on  either  side  of  the  Shah  s  tent, 
which  was  of  crimson  cloth,  very  spacious  and  open  to 
the  front,  in  consequence  of  which  we  had  a  good 
view  of  His  Majesty.      He  wore  a  dress  of  fine  grey 
cloth,  and  was  seated  on  a  cushion,  his  ample  beard 
reaching  to  his  waist.     Immediately  behind  him  was  a 
spacious  square  enclosure  of  crimson  cloth,  on  the  sides 
of  which  figures  of  soldiers,  as  if  under  arms,  were 
painted ;  behind  this,  again,  were  the  various  tents  of 
the  harem. 

The  next  mornins  we  visited  the  camp  of  Abbas  Camp  of 
Mirza,  which  was  at  a  short  distance  from  that  of  the  a,aiid  our 
Shah,  and  were  at  once  presented  to  the  Prince.     He 
was  on  a  divan,  in  the  back  part  of  a  tolerably  roomy 
tent,  and  his  appearance,  though  less  striking  than  that 
of  the  Shah,  was  still  dignified.     His  attire  was  far 


112 


NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  BXPEDITIOK. 


CHAP. 
VI. 


Intemew 
with  the 
Prime 
Hiniflter. 


Visit 

the  Tak-i- 
Bostani 
temple. 


richer  than  that  of  his  father.  He  had  a  brace  of 
pistols  beside  him  on  his  right  hand,  which  we  were 
informed  were  kept  loaded  in  case  of  any  sudden  emer- 
gency. There  was  a  railing  in  front  of  his  ottoman, 
outside  which  his  visitors  and  part  of  his  suite  were 
placed.  Finding  that  I  belonged  to  the  Royal  Artillery, 
the  Prince  at  once  enquired  after  Colonel  D'Arcy  and 
Major  Stone,  who  had  both  been  formerly  employed 
m  Persia.  He  then  adverted  to  the  Polish  war  and  to 
the  means  of  giving  assistance  to  the  Poles,  and  after  a 
lengthened  and  interesting  conversation,  we  withdrew. 

The  next  morning,  at  a  very  early  hour,  we  were 
summoned  to  an  interview  with  Mahomet  Ali  Mirza 
Khan,  the  Prime  Minister.  We  found  him  occupied 
in  dyeing  his  beard  with  henna,  but  he  at  once  entered 
on  the  subject  of  the  Polish  war,  and  suggested  the  joint 
advance  of  the  Persians  and  Turks,  in  this  first  instance, 
and  an  application  to  Great  Britain  for  assistance, 
through  her  Envoy  at  Tabriz. 

During  our  stay  in  the  camp  at  Amenabad,  we  made 
an  excursion  to  the  ancient  Guebre  temple  of  Tak-i- 
Eustam,  which  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  one  of  the 
surrounding  mountains.  It  consists  of  three  caverns, 
of  which  that  on  the  western  side  is  the  most  interest- 
ing. It  is  about  45  feet  in  length,  divided  midway  by 
a  low  wall,  from  side  to  side.  The  deep  red  stains  on 
the  walls  of  this  excavation — remains  of  the  ancient 
painting — are  still  partially  visible.  In  the  outer  cavern 
are  several  figures,  cut  in  bold  relief — others  are  quite 
detached  from  the  rock.  The  fire-temple  itself  is  in 
the  innermost  cavern ;  its  base  is  9  feet  square  by  4 
feet  high,  with  9  square  niches  on  each  side,  containing 


MABCH  OF  A  PESSUN  ARMY  113 

remains  of  small  and  now  almost  efiaced  figures.  A  chap. 
moderate-sized  dome  rests  on  this  platform,  the  summit  ^ — . — ' 
of  which,  as  well  as  the  rock  above  it,  bear  marks  of 
the  flame,  once  perpetually  kept  burning.  The  walls 
still  show  traces  of  a  coating  of  yellowish  cement,  and 
in  the  farther  cave  are  the  remains  of  a  figure,  appa- 
rently that  of  a  man,  and  one  of  a  bird  resembUng  an 
owl.  There  are  also  some  sentences  in  Aramaic,  and 
in  other  still  more  ancient  characters.* 

We  left  the  camp  in  all  the  bustle  of  preparation  for  p»pm»- 
the  coming  hostilities  with  Eussia,  and,  passing  again  war  with 
through  Ispahan,  resumed  our  journey.    We  soon  came 
up  with  the  Prince's  half- Asiatic,  half-European  army, 
and  continued  with  the  troops  the  whole  day.     The 
Persian  soldier  is  easily  fed,  consequently  little  baggage 
and.  few  animals  are  required ;  a  single  donkey  carries 
provisions  enough  for  several  privates,  though  in  this 
instance  a  suflScient  supply  of  food  was  the  more  need- 
iiil,  inasmuch  as  the  walled  towns  and  villages  along  the 
Prince's  line  of  march  thought  it  quite  necessary  to  close 
their  gates  most  carefully  against  his  troops.     They  March  of 
marched  in  succession  by  the  small  towns  of  Muchaha,  ^j^T*" 
Mayena,  and  the  defensible  place  of  Fort  Gorowsky,  the 
seat  of  a  robber-tribe,  who  were  prepared  to  defend 
their  keep,  if  necessary.     We  came  upon  several  lines 
of  '  kanats,'  and  saw  the  results  of  these  means  of  irriga- 
tion, in  most  luxuriant  plots  of  melons  near  the  village 
of  Baba.     These  were  wiihovi  the  walls,  and  were  con- 
sequently soon  disposed  of  by  the   thirsty  soldiers. 

•  Vol.  iL  (pp.  608,  609)  of  <  Expedition  to  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris/ 
gives  a  facsimile  as  weU  as  the  presumed  translations  of  these  inscrip- 
tions, with  a  fuller  aooonnt  of  this  fire-temple. 


114  NARRATITE  OF  THE  EUPHBATBS  EXPEDITION. 

^Sf  ^'    Towards  sunset,  we  diverged  a  little  fix)m  the  line  of 
march,  and  arrived  at  Dowlat-Abad,  a  place  of  some 


Abftd.  strength,  where  we  were  steadily  refused  admittance 
lest  we  should  be  followed  by  the  troops ;  and  we  were 
obhged  to  he  down,  supperless,  outside  the  gate,  and 
during  the  sound  sleep  which  followed  on  our  long 
ride,  my  sword  was  taken  from  beneath  my  pillow. 

Leaving  Dowlat- Abad  next  morning,  we  passed  a  line 
of  ^  kanits,'  which  seem  to  have  terminated  at  the  ancient 

Jemshid  city  of  Jcmshid.  Its  remains  are  extensive,  and  com- 
prise a  mound  of  considerable  size,  which  may  have 
been  the  citadel.  It  appears  to  have  been  circular,  and 
buik  of  imbiUTit  bricks  of  very  large  size.  Ruins  of 
towersj  walls,  and  fitigments  of  glass  and  pottery, 
scattered  for  some  distance  around,  mark  this  as  the  site 
of  a  once  extensive  city.     We  were  now  in  the  Plain  of 

Sowa  Sowa,  and  a  clay-built  village  of  this  name,  remarkable 
for  dome-shaped  roofs,  such  as  are  common  in  Egypt, 
stands  near  the  ruined  mound.  Here  also  we  again 
observed  the  Une  of  '  kandts,'  which  is  kept  open  by 
baked  earthen  rings,  placed  at  short  intervals  from  one 
another  along  the  channel.     A  httle  beyond  Sowa  we 

Buinsof     saw   the  extensive  ruins    of    Nowok-Koh,    and    the 

Koh.  Mountain  of  Salt,  and  passed  in  succession  the  villages 
of  Dungy,  Seggabet,'  Zeabet,  and  Singala.  This  last 
was  our  restingplace  for  the  night.     It  is  a  lai^e  mud- 

Singaia.  built  village,  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  conical  hill, 
and  watered  by  an  abundant  stream.  The  country 
around  it  is  extremely  fertile,  proofs  of  which  every- 
where met  our  eye,  in  piles  of  neatly-cut  stored-up  grain. 

Ruina  of         ^^^^  faTsaugs  through  a  hilly  country  brought  us  next 

suitanea     ^^y  ^^  ^^le  extcnsive  remains  of  Sultanea,  comprising 


KAVAGBS  OP  THE  PLAGUE.  115 

several  mosques,  one  of  which  is  still  a  fine  building,     chap. 
Disappointed  in  finding  quarters   in  this  once  hand-  --   »    -^ 


some  city,  we  skirted  a  httle  swelling  hill,  ornamented 
by  a  kiosk  belonging  to  the  8hah,  and  in  the  afternoon 
saw  the  walla  and  towers  of  Zingana  rising  before  us.  Zinganii. 
This  town  was  to  have  been  our  halting-place  for 
the  night ;  but,  even  at  this  distance  of  time,  I  cannot 
recall  without  a  shudder  the  melancholy  picture 
which  it  presented.  The  people  were  flying  from  the 
plague,  while  numerous  freshly-made  graves,  and  a 
homeless  population,  warned  us  to  resume  our  journey 
without  delay. 

We  hastened  onwards  to  the  village  of  Zingayra,  Zingaji*. 
which  was  still  free  from  this  dreaded  disease;  and 
during    the  next   evening,   after   traversing   a   hilly 
country  intersected  with    ravines,    and    passing    the 
kiosk  of  Abbas  Mirza,  we  reached  the  Plain  of  Ach-  ?i?«^  <>' 

Aboaa 

media,  where  we  were    welcomed  with  Indian  hos-  Mirm. 
pitality  by  the  British  Envoy  and  Mrs.  Campbell,  whom  9*?^^ 
we  found  encamped  on  this  spot,  in  consequence  of  »»d  the 
the  spread  of  plague  in  Tabriz.     The  interest  evinced  pw^* 
by  Captain  Campbell,*  and  his  assistant,  Mr.  McNeill,t 
and  various  guests,  in  my  projected  Euphrates  navi- 
gation, was   warmly  appreciated  by  me ;  and   I  re- 
mained with  them  for  some  weeks,  planning  the  best 
means  of  fturthering  my  enterprise   in  England,  as 
well  as  in  India.     Our  occupations  were  temporarily 
interrupted    by  a    summons  from    Abbas    Mirza  to 
Captain  Campbell,  to  confer  with  him  on  the  subject  of 
the  Poles.      But  before  he  reached  the  capital,  the 

•  Now  Sir  John  Nicholl  Robert  Campbell,  Bart,  K.C  JI. 
t  Now  the  Right  Hon.  Sir  John  McNeill,  G.C.B. 

1  2 


116  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    success  of  the  Russians  had  put  an  end  to  the  hopes 
• — . — '  entertained  by  both  Poles  and  Persians,  and  the  Envoy 

returned  to  us  at  once. 
Question         The  great  importance  of   opening  a  line  of  corn- 
route  to      munication  with  India  by  the  Euphrates,   had  been 
already  submitted,  privately  as  well  as  publicly,  by  the 
Envoy  and  Mr.  McNeill,  not  only  to  the  authorities 
in  India,  but  also  to  the  East  India  Company  and  the 
Board  of  Control.     Our  knowledge,  however,  of  some 
parts  of  the  line  to  be  traversed  was  at  that  time  still 
PpopoMd    very    imperfect,    and    it    was    therefore    considered 
tion  of  the  desirable  that  I  should  make  an  examination  of  the 
piiiStes.'^   Upper  Euphrates,  and  of  a  portion  of  the  coimtries  on 
each  side  of  the  river,  on  my  way  home.     For  this 
purpose,  I  made  arrangements  at  once  to  go  to  Tre- 
bizonde,  and  thence  to  cross  Asia  Minor  to  the  Upper 
Euphrates  and  the   shores  of  the  Mediterranean.     In 
doing  this,  I  also  proposed  to  myself,  though  as  a 
secx)ndary  object  of  interest,  to  follow  the  march  of 
the  Ten  Thousand. 
Tabriito        Everything  being  ready  by  December   12,  I  ex- 
changed  the  warm  hospitality   of  the  Envoy  for  the 
bitter  cold    of  the  upland  of  Tabriz,  and  the  next 
morning   reached   Khoi,   where    I    was    delayed   for 
horses.     This  place  is  mentioned  in  connection  with 
a  mission  from  Henri  m.  of  France  to  Tamerlane, 
in  1603.     It  is  still  of  some  consequence,  and  boasts  of 
a  castle  and  the  usual  crenelated  walls,  flanked  by 
round  towers,  surrounded  by  a  shallow  ditch  and  an 
imperfect  glacis.     It  has  mosques  and  bazaars,  with  a 
population  of  10,000  souls. 

A    ride    through    deep    snow    brought  us   to  the 


TOWN  OP  BAYAZID.  117 

considerable  viUage  of  Ali-Sheikh,  on  the  banks  of    chap. 
the  Ach-chi.     Its  houses  are  low,  flat-roofed,  and  are  - — r^ — ' 
supplied  with    piles  of   horse-dung  for  fuel      The  i^"^I^ 
Persians    being   good    cooks,    our    supper    was  ex-  ^"^^' 
cellent,   and  would  have  been  much   enjoyed  under 
other  circumstances ;  but  a  crowd  of  curious  gazers  did 
not  leave  us  room  to  sit,   much    less  to   enjoy  our 
meal. 

Having  forded  the  Ach-chi  the  next  morning,  three 
hoiu^'  ride  brought  us  to  the  wild  and  lengthened  pass 
of  Turconchy,  and  in  seven  hours  more  we  reached  the  TtM  of 
stone-built  village   of   Taylea,  near  which  there  are  ^* 

springs  of  tepid  water.  Our  route  oifwards  lay 
through  the  village  of  Killysoy  to  the  entrance  of  a 
deep  valley,  l>eyond  which  Mount  Ararat  appeared, 
with  the  town  of  Bayazid,  hanging,  as  it  were,  sus-  Armratwid 

,        ,  Bayftsid. 

pended  from  the  mountain-side  nearly  on  a  level  with 
ourselves.  The  scene  increased  in  beauty  as  we  ap- 
proached the  moimtmn,  and  saw  the  town  more 
distinctly,  stretching  upwards  to  a  castellated  work, 
which  occupies  the  summit  of  the  steep  and  craggy 
shoulder  at  the  base  of  Ararat.  Bayazid  is  defended 
by  a  strong  loopholed  wall,  flanked  by  square  towers. 
It  contains  a  mixed  population  of  Armenians,  Greeks,  Popuint 


and  Turks — three  mosques,  two  Christian  churches,  and 
a  monastery. 

But  the  most  striking  object  is  the  serai  of  the  Dereh 
Bei,  who  is  a  hereditary  chieftain  and  Pacha  of  *  two 
tails,'  which  is  remarkable  not  only  from  its  position, 
but  also  from  its  singularly  massive  parapet- wall,  rising 
from  the  very  edge  of  the  craggy  eminence  from  which 
it  commands  the  town.  Bayazid  is  the  last  Turkish 
town  short  of  the  Russian  Umits. 


id 


ion 


and  de- 
scent. 


118  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        Moving,  as  we  were  now  doing,  along  an  ascending 

' — r-^ — '  valley,  the  great  mountain,  of  which  the  elevation  had 

LittJj  A^  hitherto  been  comparatively  lost,  appeared  higher  and 

^^'  higher  as  we  proceeded  :  gradually  the  bluff  outline  of 

Little  Ararat  came  in  sight,  and  when  we  reached  the 

summit  of  the  pass  near  Diadin,  Ararat  itself   rose 

before  us,  towering  with  matchless  grandeur.     Ac- 

Eieva-        cording  to  Dr.  Parrot,  who  visited  Ararat  in  1829,  its 

tion,  &c.  " 

height  is  10,254  feet,  and  the  second  peak  12,284 
feet — the  former  being  thus  more  than  1,000  feet 
higher  than  Mont  Blanc .•    The  basaltic  rocks  around 

Diadin.  the  stroug  castlc  of  Diadin,  and  the  serai  of  the  Dereh 
Bei,  give  some  interest  to  the  place.  The  houses  are 
of  stone,  and  have  a  pile  of  fodder  and  dung,  for  fuel, 
on  each  of  their  flat  roofs.  The  dress  of  the  men 
was  a  mixture  of  Turkish  and  Persian  costume — some 
wearing  the  indispensable  fez  of  the  former,  others 
the  high-pointed  sheepskin  caps  of  the  latter. 

Our  ride  onwards  by  tJlad  Kelessa,  and  across  the 
Murad  Su  to  Maksonda,  was  rendered  most  interesting 
by  the  grandeur  and  constantly  varying  aspect  of  Moimt 

Arariit.  Ararat.  Its  lofty  peak,  backed  by  a  clear  blue  sky, 
stood  out  in  perfect  distinctness,  and  three  shoulders 
were  also  visible,  which  seemed  to  terminate,  in  a 
moderate  slope,  westward  towards  the  plain.  We 
passed  the  night  in  some  subterranean  dwellings,  the 

Visit  the     residence   of  the  Dereh  Bei,  Muhammed,  being  the 

of  Mak-  only  stone-built  house  in  the  place,  consisting  of  a 
large  apartment  with  three  divisions  in  it,  and  a  stable 
adjoining.      He  received    us    with  much  hospitality, 

•General  Monteitli :  'Height  of  Ararat,*  vol.    iii.  of  'Royal  Geo- 
grapliical  Society's  Journal/ 


tonda. 


SUBTERRANEAN   DWELLINGS.  119 

and  was  handsomely  dressed,  with  a  good  deal  of  gold    chap. 
lace  about  him,  and  the  loose  red  cap  of  the  Kurds  ^ — r^^ — ' 


hanging  behind  the  head.  Coffee  and  pilau  were 
served,  and  I  made  some  tea,  which  the  Bei  tasted  for 
the  first  time  in  his  Mfe. 

Taking  leave  of  our  host  after  coffee  the  next 
morning,  a  dreary  day's  ride  of  nine  hours  brought  us 
to  Toprah  Kaleh,  a  defensible  building  of  some  Topmh 
strength,  attached  to  a  considerable  village  of  the  same 
name,  of  which  we  saw  nothing,  as  it  was  completely 
buried  in  snow.  We  w^e,  however,  kindly  welcomed, 
and  a  good  supper  prepared  for  us  in  one  of  these 
buried  dwellings,  but  where  we  had  to  undergo  the 
trial  of  most  intense  suffocating  heat,  caused  by  a 
crowd  of  wandering  Kurds.  Our  route  now  lay  by 
Abougist  Castle  and  the  village  of  Taher  to  Delli  Baba,  Deiii  BaU 
where  the  dwelling-places  are  imbedded  in  the  side  dweiUngs. 
of  the  hill,  and  for  the  sake  of  warmth,  during  the 
severe  winters  of  Armenia,  each  house  is  provided  with 
an  oven,  which  divides  it  into  two  small  apartments, 
both  well  heated. 

The  only  hght  admitted  is  by  a  small  pane  of  glass 
over  the  door.     There  was  but  Uttle  worth  relating  in  Arae 

c 

nvof 

each  day's  journey  as  we  proceeded,  crossing  the  Aras 
by  a  bridge  of  seven  pointed  arches  between  high 
buttresses,  and  advancing  through  a  well-cultivated 
plain  to  Hasan  KAl'ah,  which  was  an  important  place  Ha«in 
in  the  time  of  the  Genoese  Kepublic.  It  has  now  fallen 
to  decay.  The  remaining  houses  are  of  stone,  with 
flat  roofs  of  earth,  supported  by  logs  of  timber  brought 
from  the  forests  around  Kars.  It  is  chiefly  remark- 
able for  its  hot  springs,  some  of  which  are  bituminous,. 


120  NABRAT1V£  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOy. 

gHAP.  while  others  contain  iron  and  lime.  Their  greatest  heat 
' — r^-^  is  105**  Fahrenheit.  In  one  spot,  resembling  a  crater, 
^^^  the  water  rushes  up  in  such  a  copious  stream,  that  its 

ipr^g"-  basin  is  constantly  well  filled,  and  forms  a  deep  and 
spacious  natural  bath,  much  frequented  by  bathers, 
and  used  by  both  sexes  alternately.  The  Pacha  kindly 
arranged  that  I  should  have  it  to  myself  for  a  time, 
and  I  luxuriated  in  a  most  enjoyable  swim,  which 
caused  the  fatigue  of  my  long  journey,  through  deep 
snow,  to  become  quite  a  thing  of  the  past. 
Hasan  Our  progrcss  to  Erzerum  was  slow,  on  account  of 

Ereerum.  the  depth  of  the  snow ;  and  when  at  length  we  en- 
tered the  capital  of  Armenia,  the  buildings  on  either 
side  were  scarcely  to  be  distinguished,  so  completely 
were  they  buried  in  its  soft  white  folds.  Here  ended 
the  second  stage  of  my  journey  (of  405  miles  from 
Tabriz  to  Erzerum),  through  Persia  and  Armenia,  from 
Bushire  and  the  estuary  of  the  Orontes. 


121 


CHAPTEE  Vn. 

EBZERUM   TO  TKEBIZONDE,  AND   FROM   THENCE   TO  THE   MEDITERRINEAK 

COAST  THROUGH   ASIA  MINOR. 

Consul  Zohrab's  hospitality,  and  his  local  knowledge,     9S^* 
greatly  facilitated  my  enquiries  respecting  Erzerum  •  ' — 7; — ' 
and  its  vicinity.     It  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  &c.  of  ir- 
a  very  elevated  table-land, f  between  the  Kai-d  Su,  or 
western  arm,  and  the  Murad  Su,  or  western  branch 
of  the  Euphrates,  which  are  only  19  miles  apart. J     It 
is  the  seat  of  the  government  of  the  Vizier  Azem,  or 
Governor   of   Asiatic    Turkey,   who,   although   lately 
deprived  of  the  dependencies  of  Kars  and  Ackaltzek, 
holds  the  third  place  in  the  Sultan's  Empire, — ^Egypt 
and  Bagdad  being  the  first  and  second. 

Erzerum  is  feebly  defended  by  a  line  of  walls  flanked 
by  towers,  and  a  castellated  work  in  the  centre  of  the 
city.    Its  principal  buildings  are  a  Greek  and  Armenian  church«i 
church,  and   thirty-six  mosques,  one  of  which  is  of  Mosques. 
Persian  architecture,  and  is   remarkable  for  its  light 
arabesque  tracery.     The  khans  are  numerous,  and  the 
bazaars  very  extensive,  and  supply  wool,  leather,  cut-  Trade, 
lery,  Damascus  sword-blades,  and  other  objects  of  trade. 
Erzerum,  however,  now  possesses  but  the  shadow  of  its 

*  Once  De  Garen,  ancient  Theodoiopolis,  Moses  Chorene,  Hist.  lib.  iii. 
cap.  4. 

t  According  to  Consul  Brant  (*  Royal  Geographical  Society's  Journal,' 
Tol.  vi.  p.  200)^  this  plain  is  5,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
But  Mr.  Walpole's  calculation  gives  it  an  elevation  of  7,000  feet. 

J  Ibid.  Note,  p.  210. 


i 


122  NARRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  former  prosperous  commerce.  On  the  entrance  of  the 
^ — r-^  Eiissians  into  the  city,  in  1831,  the  Turkish  inhabitants 
fled  ;  and  Paskiewitch  subsequently  caused  the  greater 
part  of  the  Armenian  families  to  remove  vrithin  the 
Eussian  territory,  which  necessarily  almost  completed 
the  ruin  of  the  place,  by  reducing  the  population  from 
130,000  to  about  15,000.* 

I  left  Erzenim  on  December  26,  crossed  the  Kard 
Sii,  and  halted  for  the  night  at  the  extensive  village  of 
Khapoo-     Khapoona.     Every  comer  of  this  place  was  occupied 
navi  age.  ^^  ^  passing  caravau,  and  it  seemed  as  if  shelter — 
which  in  the  midst  of  an  Armenian  winter  is  almost  a 
question  of  life  and  death — ^would  be  out  of  the  ques- 
tion.    At  length  I  obtained  a  small  space  between  a 
stable  and  a  cowhouse,  where  I  passed  the  night  most 
Murad       comfortably.   Passing  over  the  Murad  Chai,  we  reached 
Baibut°      the  gold-mines  of  Kabdn  Maden,  and  halted  at  Bai- 
but,  which  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  in  conse- 
Aghana      qucncc  of   its  proximity   to   the   mines   of    Aghana 
Maden,  which  produce  gold  and  silver  as  well  as 
copper.     The  population  are  chiefly  miners.    Tradition 
carries  the  existence  of  this  place  back  to  the  time  of 
Alexander,  under  the  ancient  name  of  Hisparatus,  and 
its  mines  are  mentioned  by  Strabo.f 

A  deep  and  narrow  valley  leads  the  travellers  from 

Argin.       Baibut  to  the  village  of  Argin,  situated  at  the  foot 

of  a  very  steep  ascent.     This  valley  gradually  opens 

out,   and  becomes  clothed,   first  with  juniper,   then 

with  pine-trees,  while  villages  of  stone-built  flat-roofed 

•  Consul  Brant^  *  Royal  Qeographical  Society's  Journal/  voL  x.  pt.  2, 
p.  231. 

t  Malte  Brun,  *  G^o^rapliie/  vol.  viii.  p.  157. 


YAUfiT  OF  GHUMISH  KHANEH.  123 

houses  and  castles  appear  at  intervals  on  the  hillside,     chap. 

vn 
As  we  advanced  towards  Ghumish  Khaneh,  vegetation  v. 


became  more  luxuriant.    Elms,  alders,  and  other  forest  ^JJJ^ 
trees  were  interspersed  with  juniper  and  pine  along  the  ^J^^ 
western  side  of  the  valley,  whilst  on  the  right  the  hills 
were   bare  and  rugged      Ghumish   Khaneh,  or  the 
'Fountain  of  Silver,'  consists  of  an  upper  and  lower  town, 
occupying  a  bend  of  this  wild  and  rocky  valley,  which 
is  watered  by  the  Eiver  Kharshish.   It  consists  of  some 
2,000  Turkish  and  600  Greek  or  Armenian  dwellings, 
built  up  the  steep  slopes  of  the  hills  on  each  side  of 
the  river,  having  slanting  roofs  covered  with  shingles. 
Iron  and  copper  are  still  smelted  by  the  people,  and  this  Miaena 
half-neglected  district  also  produces  lead,  silver,  and  S^^' 
some  gold.     The  valley,  which  is  already  narrow  at 
this  spot,  becomes  more  and  more  so  as  the  traveller 
proceeds  onwards,  until  there  is  scarcely  room  for  a 
narrow  passage  beside  the  river,  and  he  feels  that  his 
safety  depends  on  the  retaining-wall,   which    alone 
secures  him  a  precarious  footing.     This  dangerous  spot 
is  about  three-and-a-half  hours'  ride  from  the  mines, 
which  are  reached  by  crossing  the  valley  by  a  very 
high  bridge.     Beyond  this  point  the  valley  widens  out, 
and  barberry  and  thorn,  as  well  as  juniper  and  pines, 
are  plentiM  along  its  left  side.     We  halted  at  the 
village  of  Tekeh  for  the  night,  but  could  get  no  better  Tekeh 
accommodation  than  a  crowded  stable,  where,  in  spite  ^^^^^^^ 
of  the  confusion  of  settling  loads,  and  the  noise  of 
currycombs,  we  managed  to  sleep  soundly.    The  steep 
ascent  which  awaited  us  beyond  this  place  could  only 
be  accomplished  with  safety  by  daylight. 

The  10,000  Greeks  must  have  followed  this  valley  as 


( 


124  NARRATIVE    OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    far  as  Ghumish  Ehaneh,  and  must  there  have  found 

VII 

' — r-^  themselves  most  unexpectedly  cut  off  from  the  sea  by 


tein^^"  *^^  intervening  lofty  range  of  mountains.  They  must 
^th?*^  therefore  have  continued  their  march  along  this  valley 
GreekB.  ^ud  that  of  Godol,  lying  to  the  south-west,  until  they  had 
an  opportunity  of  obtaining  such  intelligence  as  led  to 
their  partly  retracing  their  steps  in  order  to  reach  the 
sea.  Taking  a  guide  from  what  had  been  their  divei^ing 
point,  I  passed  through  the  small  town  of  Yenisher  to 
the  foot  of  the  great  mountain  barrier  now  rising  before 
me.  An  ascent  of  two  hours,  through  pines,  rhodo- 
dendrons, and  brushwood,  brought  me  to  the  village 
of  Zingani,  from  whence,  in  two  hours  more,  we 
reached  the  summit  of  the  pass,  which,  according  to 
Consul  Brant,  is  4,580  feet  above  the  plain.* 

The    descent,  especially  through  the    forest,    was 

Beautiful    morc  diflScult  than  the  ascent ;  but  the  scenery  was 

■ceneiy.      pomautic   and  beautiful,  reminding  me  of  the  Alps  in 

grandeur,  and  luxuriantly  wooded  with  beech,  pine,  and 

the  silver-poplar.      This  was  succeeded  by  a  winding 

descent  over  undulating  shoulders  of  the  range,  with 

shingle-roofed  houses  at   intervals,  reminding  me   of 

similar  buildings  and  scenery  in  the  Balkan  Mountains. 

Yeni  We  passed  the  village  of  Yeni  Kupri,  situated  amidst 

Jxupn. 

magnificent  pines  and  gigantic  rhododendrons,  and 
crossed  to  the  right  side  of  the  valley,  which  had  now 
again  become  very  narrow,  and  was  quite  closed  in  by 
mountain-ash  and  beech-trees  of  extraordinary  size. 
Midway  along  this  valley,  we  passed  the  remarkably 
Ockiey  Swiss-lookiug  village  of  Ockley  Khaneh,  and  stopped  for 
the  night  at  a  kind  of  shop,  resuming  our  journey  early 


*  ( 


Koyal  Geographical  Society's  Journal/  vol.  vi.  pt.  2. 


CITT  OF  TBEBIZONBE.  125 

on  the  following  morning  (December  31 ).     We  passed    ^y^' 
the  two  villages  of  Hamonri,  and  rode  on  through  a  ' — ' — ' 
well- wooded  country  to  Geveslik,  opposite  to  which,  on  ^neiy  on- 
the  other  side  of  the  valley,  we  saw  the  serai  of  Aib  ^*^ 
Oglii  Osman-Agha,  an  ancient-looking  building,  with 
a  high-pitched  projecting  roof^   massive  white  walls 
and  verandahs,  and  two  square  towers,  as  means  of 
defence.     As  we  advanced,  we  passed  the  conspicuous 
castle  of  Kusk  Oglu,  a  brother  of  the  famous  Dereh 
Bei ;  and  going  alternately  north-east  and  north-west, 
through  woods  of  noble  beech  and  pine,  we  caught 
sight  of  the  sea  from  some  of  the  windings  of  the 
valley,  and  came  upon  a  view  of  the  castle  and  city 
of  Trebizonde,  with  the  Black  Sea  beyond ;  and  thus 
the  last  evening  of  1831  was  happily  spent,  under  the 
hospitable  roof  of  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  Consul, 
Mr.  Brant. 

Trebizonde  occupies  the  lowermost  slope  of  the  lofty  Position  «f 
and  almost  unbroken  mountain-chain,  which  reaches   sonde, 
from  the  shores  of  the  Caspian  to  those  of  the  Black  Sea, 
where  its  rich  and  picturesque  scenery  form  the  back- 
ground of  the  city  itself.     It  seems  to  have  been  first 
mentioned  in  history  as  a  Milesian  settlement,  and  to  have 
been  connected  with  the  early  Asiatic  trade  through  Kai, 
Balkh,  &c.     At  a  later  period  Trebizonde  is  mentioned 
by  Herodotus,  and  it  was  one  of  the  cities  taken  by 
Xerxes  430  B.C.*      We  know  also  that  it  was  suflS-  its  early 
ciently  rich   and   extensive  to  entertain  Xenopho^'s        ^' 
followers  for  30  days,  during  which  the  gymnic  games 
were  celebrated.f     It  attained  its  greatest  importance 
during  the  Lower  Empire,  when  it  became  a  royal  seat. 

•  Lib.  y.  cap.  tI. 

t  '  Anabasia/  lib.  iv.  cap.  8. 


126  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        The  town  covers  an  elevated  tongue  of  land,  at  the 

VII        .  .  ... 

inner  extremity  of  which  is  the  citadeL     A  line  of 


works  is  carried  from  the  end  of  the  point,  round  the 
plateau,  to  its  other  extremity,  thus  enclosing  the  space 
once  occupied  by  the  original  city,  which  formed  a 
parallelc^ram  of  800  yards  from  SE.  to  NW.,  and  200 
yards  across.  The  present  buildings  enclose  part  of 
Ancient  the  aucieut  site  at  their  western  extremity,  from  whence 
Trebi-  they  cxtcud,  in  a  square  form,  almost  to  the  edge  of  the 
~'^^"-  Black  Sea,  bemg  900  yards  m  length  by  800  in  width. 
The  modem  houses  occupy  a  lower  level  than  those  in 
the  older  enclosure.  Some  of  the  latter,  and  the  remains 
of  the  mole  and  basin,  appear  to  have  been  the  work  of 
the  Genoese.  The  destruction  of  these  works  has  left 
the  commerce  of  Trebizonde  dependent  on  its  safe 
anchorage,  which  is,  happily,  remarkably  secure  :  for, 
owing  to  the  bold  mountains  near  the  town,  the  wind 
reverberates,  and  as,  consequently,  it  cannot  blow  home, 
the  anchorage  is  comparatively  safe,  even  when  there 
is  a  gale  from  seaward, 
itspopu-  In  1832  the  population  numbered  about  30,000 
souls,  including  2,000  Armenians  and  4,000  Greeks. 
The  streets  are  planted  with  trees,  and  the  houses,  being 
low  and  flat-roofed,  are  nearly  hidden  by  their  foliage, 
but  the  mosques  and  churches  are  very  conspicuous. 
Nineteen  of  the  latter  still  remain,  but  they  were 
formerly  much  more  numerous  ;  many  have  now  been 
converted  into  mosques,  one  of  which  (Santa  Sophia)  is 
a  circular  and  striking  building.  The  cereal  and 
mineral  productions  of  the  surrounding  country  having 
Commerce  been  well-managcd  lately,  there  has  been  consider- 
*  ^^  ^*  able  increase  in  the  trade  and  commeFce  of  the  place 


COMMERCE  OF  THE  GENOESE.  127 

(from  5,000  bales  in  1830  to  20,000  in  1832),  and    chap. 


vu. 


several  of  the  old  Genoese  castles  have  been  converted  ^ 
into  store-depots  in  consequence.* 

After  a  fortnight,  spent  most  agreeably  and  profitably 
with  Mr.  Brant,  I  prepared  for  my  somewhat  serious 
journey  to  explore  the  Upper  Euphrates.  I  engaged 
three  ba^age-mules  and  two  horses,  and  left  Trebi-  Leara 
zonde  on  January  14,  1832,  and  entered  the  wild  tooda' 
mountains,  which  have  been  so  graphically  described 
by  the  Father  of  (especially)  Military  History. 

Eetracing  my  route  as  far  as  Ghumish  Khaneh,  we  Oo^oi  • 
halted  at  the  Castle  of  Gfodol,  which  is  a  very  remark- 
able building,  occupying  the  crests  of  two  pinnacles  of 
massive  rock,  between  which  there  is  a  third  portion 
of  the  castellated  work,  so  judiciously  placed  at  the 
intersection  of  a  cross-valley  as  to  facilitate  and  protect 
the  commerce  of  the  Genoese.     Leaving  Godol,  we 
passed  through    a  wooded  coimtry,  with  occasional 
hamlets  and  mills,  and  the  large  village  of  Damende. 
Towards  evening  we  came  upon  Byan^-Kaleh,  another  B7an^ 
Gtenoese  post,  where  we  halted,  and  visited  the  mineral  the  ** 
springs  near  the  castle.     The  valley  is  here  closely  shut  ^"^' 
in  by  wild  precipitous  hills,  and  at  once  recalled  to  my 
mind  Xenophon's  graphic  description  of  this  portion 
of  the  retreat : — ^indeed,  every  step  now  identified  his 
well-known  localities,  and  proved  the  faithfiilness  of  his 
descripticms  of  those  natural  features  on  which  time  has 
made  but  little  change. 

The  sea  is  visible  from  three   lofty  mountains  in 
this  vicinity — ^fi'om  that  of  Zingana,  from  the  higher 

•  Consul  Brant's  Report,  'Royal  Geograpliical  Society's  Jonmal/ 
vol.  Ti.  p.  191. 


i 


128 


NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 


CHAP. 
VU. 

Gaior 
Tagh  and 
the  sea 
yisible. 


Defensiye 
potiitioD  of 
the  Macro- 
nians. 


Position  of 
theCk>l- 
chians 
turned 


Karagool,  and  from  the  Gaiur  Tagh,  or '  Infidel  Moun- 
tain.' I  waded  through  deep  snow  to  the  summit  of 
the  *  holy  Mountain  of  Theches/  and  on  reachmg  it, 
I  felt  inclined  to  exclaim,  with  Xenophon's  patient 
followers,  *  The  sea ! — The  sea !'  *  I  came  to  the  condu- 
gion  that  this  was  the  very  spot  where  all  their  anxieties 
and  uncertainties  had  been  brought  to  a  close  by  the 
sight  of  the  sea  at  a  short  distance  from  them.  They 
had  now,  their  position  being  ascertained,  only  to 
descend  from  a  height  of  some  5,000  feet,  and  then 
to  continue  their  march,  as  they  appear  to  have 
done,  for  some  eleven  or  twelve  miles  along  the 
Valley  of  Damajala,  where  two  rivers  and  four  valleys 
meet. 

Here  the  enemy  was  prepared  to  dispute  the 
passage.  The  Macronians  were  posted  behind  steep 
banks  rising  from  the  farther  side  of  a  deep  valley, 
which  was  so  narrow  that  the  armies  were  within 
speaking  distance.  Xenophon  at  once  entered  into 
vivd-voce  negotiations  with  the  enemy,  from  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  valley,  which  terminated  favourably ; 
and  the  Greeks  proceeded  peaceably  towards  the  Pass  of 
Zingani,  which,  as  I  have  already  described,  had  caused 
them  to  make  their  long  divergent  march.  Their 
arrival  at  this  spot  was,  however,  now  attended  with  a 
different  result ;  for  although  the  Colchians  occupied  the 
side  of  a  steep  mountain  rising  to  about  5,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  Xenophon's  military  talents  enabled  him 
to  overcome  every  difficulty.  Perceiving  that  a  direct 
attack  could  not  but  fail,  he  divided  his  army  into 
eleven  columns,  which  were  to  ascend  the  moimtain  at 


♦  AnabftHiS;  lib.  iv.  cap.  7. 


MINES  OF  SHBfi-KHAN£H»  129 

certain  distances  from  each  other,  and  thus  not  only  out-  chap. 
flank  the  Colchians,  but  at  the  same  time  attack  them  — r-^ 
in  rear.  This  movement  was  eminently  successful :  the 
Colchians  fled,  the  route  was  left  open,  the  mountain 
quietly  passed,  and  in  three  days  Xenophon  and  his 
daring  followers  had  reached  their  destined  port,  and 
were  preparing  for  their  ulterior  operations.* 

It  is  useless  to  delay  the  reader  by  a  journal  of  my  Aium- 
daily  progress — ^now  ascending  and  descending  moim- 
tain  slopes,  now  zigzagging  along  their  sides,  but 
without  meeting  with  any  objects  of  special  interest, 
exceptmg  the  alum-mines  of  Shap  Ma'dan,  which  give 
employment  to  about  70  Greek  and  Armenian  families. 
Crossing  the  Kara-Hisdr,  I  reached  the  picturesque 
town  of  the  same  name,  built  on  a  conical  rocky  hill 
about  800  feet  above  the  plain,  and  defended  by  a 
Genoese  castle,  the  keep  and  hexagonal  flanking-towers 
of  which  are  still  in  good  repair,  and  enclose  two  Em, 
masses  of  rock.  The  hill  is  almost  impr^nable,  and 
the  town  is  protected  as  well  as  commanded  by  its 
castle.  It  consists  of  the  usual  flat-roofed  houses,  and 
contains  a  population  of  about  2,000  Armenian  families. 
The  neighbouring  mines  of  Sheb-Khaneh  make  this  a 
place  of  some  importance. 

Beyond  Kara-His&r  I  passed  the  villages  of  Gumbat 
and  Guzellan,  and  that  of  Kenk,  said  to  be  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  some  remarkable  ruins,  which  on 
inspection  dwindled  down  to  a  few  ancient  tombstones. 
As  we  approached  this  village  in  the  dark,  our  steps 
were  guided  by  the  flickering  of  many  lights,  and  the 

*  A  fuller  account  of  the  moyements  of  the  Greeks  will  he  found  at 
pp.  20S-24dy  YoL  ii.  of  <  Expedition  to  Euphrates  and  Tigris.' 

K 


i 


130  NAKRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    sounds  of  merrymaking,  proceeding  fix)m  a  group  of 

— r-^  men  and  boys,  who  were  dancing  round  a  fire,  lighted 

on  the  outskirts  of  the  village  in  honour  of  a  wedding. 

Proceed      Followiug  the  coursc  of  the  Kizil-Irmak,  the  mountains 

Kirii-  *    gradually  receded,  as  we  passed  in  succession  through 

the  villages  of  Jerryoon,  Yarasson,  Yene,  and  Koch- 

asor,  the  latter  a  square-built  village  at  the  foot  of  a 

rocky  hill,  and  close  to  the  river.     Farther  on,  and 

still  near  the  Kizil-Irmak,  we  passed  the  ruins  of  an 

ancient  church  and  convent,  where  a  warm  spring 

bubbles  out  of  the  rock,  and  a  little  later  saw  the 

remains  of  an  Armenian  church. 

I  had  ridden  for  nine  hours  on  this  day,  exposed 
to  the  keenest  cold,  and  supper  and  the  shelter  of  a 
Ouydoo.     warm  house  at  the  village  of  Guydoo  were  there- 
fore more  than  usually  welcome.    My  attention  was 
attracted  by  a  flight  of  wild  ducks  near  the  village,  and 
on  going  out  with  my  gun,  I  ascertained  that  they  re- 
A  warn      sorted  to  this  spot  on  account  of  a  warm  spring,  which 
'^"°^*       rushes  out  of  the  ground  in  sufficient  volume  to  form 
quite  a  stream  as  it   enters  the  Kizil-Irmak.     The 
ducks  were  luxuriating  in  this  tepid  water,  and  though 
disturbed  by  my  presence,  they  continued  circling  round 
and  round  this  attractive  spot,  until,  satiated  with  sport, 
I  left  them  and  resumed  my  journey,  and  we  reached 
SiYM.        Sivds  the  same  afternoon.     The  central  position  of  this 
place  creates  a  most  active  trade — ^in  silk,  cotton,  wool, 
grain,  &c. :  the  bazaars  present  such  a  lively  busthng 
scene,  as  might  be  expected  in  a  focus  of  various  lines 
of  commerce,  which  would  be  greatly  augmented  by 
the  extension  of  these  lines  to  India. 

Sivas  (or  Suas)*  occupies  the  banks  of  the  principal 

•  Once  Cahira,  and  afterwards  Sevastia.    (Pliny,  lib.  vi.  cap.  4.) 


DESCRIPTION  OF  SIVASL  181 

affluent  of  the  Kizil-Imak,  and  the  city  stands  ahnost    chap. 

VII 

in  the  centre  of  the  extensive  plain,  which  stretches  for  — r-^ 


some  distance  to  the  ENR  and  WNW.  of  this  part 
of  ancient  Cappadocia.  It  contains  two  castles,  built 
on  a  hill  within  its  precincts  and  3,000  Turkish  and 
1,000  Armenian  houses — ^which  are  by  no  means  all 
of  the  general  flat-roofed  construction,  but  inter- 
mingled with  pent-roofed  dwellings  and  numerous 
small  gardens,  khans,  baths,  and  mosques.  There  are 
nearly  a  hundred  of  the  latter,  many  of  them  very 
handsome  buildings,  in  the  best  style  of  Arabian  and 
Persian  architecture,  and  the  minarehs  attached  to 
some  of  them  are  remarkably  light  and  elegant 

Leaving  Sivas,  we  crossed  the  Kizil-Irmak  by  a  . 
bridge  of  seventeen  arches,  and  passed  through  a  level 
and  cultivated  coimtry,  dotted  with  villages  at  short 
distances  apart,  to  our  halting-place  at  Hanna,  an  incon-  Hanna 
siderable  Turkish  village.  Our  attention  was  attracted 
by  numbers  of  small  mounds  surroimding  the  village, 
which  we  found  to  be  heaps  of  grain  thatched  with 
straw  and  covered  with  earth,  as  a  protection  against 
the  severe  cold  of  this  climate.  At  our  next  stopping- 
place  (Karagoon),  we  found  these  grain  and  fodder 
stores  heaped  on  the  rooft  of  the  houses. 

From  Karagoon  we  proceeded  to  Pallas,  a  little 
place  containing  about  ninety  families,  whom  we  found 
in  a  very  excited  state,  quite  unlike  the  usual  placid 
demeanour  of  a  Turkish  community,  which  was  ac- 
counted for  by  the  rejoicings  attendant  on  a  wedding. 
Old  and  young  had  turned  out  for  the  festivities;  Rejoicings 
the  latter  were  dancing,  or  rather  walking^  round  a  ding. 
pole — one  of  the  party  carrying  a  large  triangular  flag, 

K  2 


i 


132  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    and  beating  an  immense  drum  to  keep  the  children 

^ — r-^  in  time.     The  rest  of  the  merrymakers  consisted  partly 

of  women,  who  escaped  hurriedly  on  our  appearance, 

leaving  their  husbands  to  receive  us,  which  they  did 

with  much  friendUness. 

Next  day,  our  course  lay  at  one  time  along  the 
border  of  an  extensive  lake,  at  another  through  a  wild 
basaltic  tract,  with  an  occasional  village,  succeeded 
by  several  small  towns — harbingers  of  the  great  city  we 
were  now  approaching,  and  which  came  in  sight  at 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  as  we  rounded  the  gigantic 
Agrish  Tagh.  I  had  looked  forward  with  much 
Kaisitri-  interest  to  a  visit  to  Kaisariyeh.  Its  position  in  the 
popnkton.  ccutrc  of  Asiatic  Turkey,  and  its  prominence  in  past 
history,  had  given  it  great  importance  in  my  anticipa- 
tions, which  were,  however,  in  one  respect  grievously 
disappointed,  since  Kaisariyeh,  which  at  the  height  of 
its  grandeur  contained  a  population  of  400,000  in- 
habitants, is  now  reduced  to  some  6,000  Turkish, 
1,400  Armenian,  and  600  Gh^eek  houses,  one-fourth 
of  which  are  tenantless.  It  occupies  part  of  the  plain 
to  the  south-west  of  the  great  mountain,  and  contains 
an  extensive  castle,  several  fine  mosques  and  bazaars, 
but  all  showing  symptoms  of  decay.  Some  ruins,  to 
the  eastward  of  the  dty,  mark  the  site  of  Ccesarea,* 
once  Mazaca  or  Mosoch.f  The  lofty  mountain  ad- 
joining this  locaUty  has  a  prominent  place  in  the 
account  of  the  march  of  the  Assyrian  forces  fix)m 
Nineveh  to  Jerusalem,  so  graphically  brought  before 
us  in  the  apocryphal  Book  of  Judith.:}: 

*  Strabo,  lib.  xii.  p.  638. 
t  Josephus^  book  i.  cap.  6. 
X  Judith,  ii.  11,  17. 


TAUBUS  RANGE  AND  GURUN.  133 

The  remains  near  Kaisariyeh  are  chiefly  sepulchral,  chap. 
belonging  to  the  time  of  the  Bomans.  Some  miles  ^  ^!^-> 
from  the  town  a  column  marks  the  spot  where  the 
great  battle  took  place  between  the  Bomans  and  the 
Persian  monarch  Shapur ;  while  other  remains  enable 
us  to  determine  the  site  of  the  ancient  capital  of  the 
territory,  the  name  of  which  was  changed  by  Tiberiu^ 
from  Csesarea  to  Mazaca,  as  a  punishment  to  the  people 
for  throwing  down  the  statue  of  Jupiter  Apollo. 

From  Kafsariyeh  we  retraced  our  route  as  far 
as  Pallas.  Thence,  four  days'  riding  in  a  south-  'PbXLm. 
westerly  direction,  through  cultivated  valleys  and 
numerous  villages,  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the 
Great  Taurus  range,  ascending  which  we  reached  the 
mountain-town  of  Gurun,  which  occupies  a  singular  Gurun. 
position.  A  castle,  now  in  ruins,  stands  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  commanding  a  view  of  the  fertile  valley 
below,  which  extends  both  eastward  and  westward. 
There  are  also  the  remains  of  what  appears  to  have 
been  an  amphitheatre,  partially  covering  a  conical  hill 
which  has  an  elevation  of  about  150  feet.  The  town 
consists  of  2,000  houses,  built  round  these  two  pro- 
minent objects,  and  its  importance  is  chiefly  due  to 
its  position  at  the  intersection  of  various  routes  leading 
to  and  from  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 

I  had  some  difficulty  in  inducing  my  catergee 
(muleteer)  to  continue  the  journey  beyond  this  point ; 
but  having  overcome  his  reluctance  to  proceed,  we 
descended  from  Gurun  to  the  Gurun  Su,  taking  a 
south-westerly  direction,  and  passing  through  a  basaltic 
tract  of  country  to  the  Ova-el-Bostan.  This  is  a  Ei-Bostan. 
fertile  tract,  extending  from  15  to  18  miles  NE.  and 


134  NARiiATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.  SW.,  and  again  from  10  to  13  miles  SE.  by  NW. — 
^ — r-^  supporting  several  villages,  some  of  them  of  consider- 
able size.  At  the  extremity  of  this  plain  we  entered 
the  town  of  El-Bostan,  which  stands  partly  on  the  plain, 
partly  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  by  which  it  is 
bounded,  and  is  washed  by  the  Jahet  Su,  which  is  cele- 
brated for  the  abundance  of  fish  found  in  its  waters. 
El-Bostan  possesses  one  large  mosque,  having  a  cupola 
covered  with  copper,  and  five  smaller  ones,  each  with 
a  wooden  minareh.  The  houses  are  of  day,  with  flat 
roofs,  and  open  fronts  of  light  and  graceful  architecture. 
We  found  but  few  ancient  remains,  some  of  which 
were  inscribed  with  Cufic  characters,  and  were  sur- 
prised to  see  some  gulls  sailing  over  the  plain,  though 
so  distant  from  the  sea. 

Another  day's  journey  brought  us  to  the  village 
and  pass  of  Casterman,  nearly  at  the  summit  of  this 
part  of  the  Taurus,  whence  descending  in  a  south- 
westerly direction  along  a  rocky  valley,  we  reached 
jeiiag*  our  intended  restingplace,  the  village  of  Jellage. 
Here  we  met  with  a  most  inhospitable  reception, 
and  things  looked  so  impleasant  that  we  had  to 
resort  to  defensive  preparations,  after  closing  our 
door  as  securely  as  we  could.  We  managed  to  get 
off  safely  the  next  morning,  notwithstanding  a  great 
manifestation  of  hostile  feeling  from  the  inhabi- 
tants of  this  Kurdish  hamlet,  and  rode  on  through 
stunted  oaks  and  cedars,  and  strikingly  wild  scenery, 
until  we  reached  the  crest  of  this  part  of  the  Taurus 
range,  which  rises  to  about  1,800  feet.  Thence  a 
succession  of  deep  valleys  brought  us  to  the  base  of  the 
Zeitoum  range,  which  has  an  elevation  of  8,000  feet ; 


Tillage. 


AOHR-TAOH   AND  MABASH.  135 

and  continuing  on  for  some  little  time  along  a  hog's-     ohap. 
back,  we  descended  the  momitain,  by  a  zigzag  course,  — r-^ 
through   richly-wooded    and    very  beautiful  scenery, 
reaching  AK-Shehr  in  the  afternoon. 

Here  we  were  received  by  the  lord  of  the  valley 
in  his  castellated  dwelling,  though  with  very  doubtfid 
hospitality.  We  found  him  reposing  under  his  spacious 
verandah,  and  this  being  the  Mohammedan  fast  the  Bei, 
Hajji  Ismael  Agha  indulged  his  appetite  two  or  three 
times  during  the  evening,  by  way  of  preparation  for  the 
next  day's  abstinence.  But  our  fare  was  less  abundant, 
and  seemed  to  have  reference  to  remuneration  rather 
than  to  hospitality,  which  necessarily  lessened  our 
inclination  to  be  liberal.  On  leaving  the  next  day,  the 
Bei  supphed  us  with  an  escort  to  ensure  our  safety,  and 
we  followed  the  course  of  the  Jeihan  Su,  here  quite  a  Jeihan  sa. 
fine  river — retracing  part  of  the  previous  day's  journey, 
and  ascending  the  mountain  through  woods  of  pines, 
oaks,  cedars,  and  wild  vines.  On  rounding  a  projecting 
shoulder  of  the  mountain,  we  entered  a  narrow  rocky 
pass,  where  we  most  inopportunely  encountered  a 
caravan  of  laden  mules  and  horses,  which  we  did  not 
get  through  without  serious  difficulty.  A  steep  valley 
succeeded — ^then  a  plain  fix)m  which  we  ascended  to 
the  town  of  Marash,  which  occupies  three  remarkable  Marash 
projecting  shoulders,  about  halfway  up  the  slope  of  the  mines, 
lofty  Aghr-Tagh.  On  the  centre  shoulder  stands  the 
castle,  while  the  town  is  built  on  the  other  two  as  well 
as  in  the  intervening  valleys,  which  are  connected  by 
bridges.  There  are  twenty-five  mosques,  and  about 
3,500  clay-built  houses  in  the  town,  which  overlooks  a 
rich  plain,  36  miles  long  by  10  wide,  producing  fine 


136  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  tobacco,  abundant  grain-crops,  and  a  large  supply  of 
•>  >  '-^  timber.  There  are  extensive  mines  of  iron  of  most 
excellent  quality  in  the  neighbourhood,  some  of  plum- 
bago* also,  and — what  is  more  rare — one  of  native 
steel. 

AintAb.  From  Marash    we   proceeded    to   Aintab,   passing 

through  a  pastoral  tract  of  country  occupied  by  the 
black  tents  of  the  Kurds.  The  Castle  of  Aintab  stands 
in  a  commanding  position,  on  the  summit  of  a  round 
elevated  hill,  at  the  base  of  which  lies  the  town,  which 
is  well-built,  and  has  several  fine  mosques,  baths,  and 
about  8,000  Turkish  and  500  Armenian  houses, 
almost  all  of  stone.  A  calico  manufactory  exists  here, 
and  its  communication  with  Aleppo,  Orfah,  and  Mar- 
ash,  renders  Aintab  a  place  of  considerable  commercial 
importance. 

Aleppo  Aleppo  was  my  next  destination,  whence  I  hoped  to 

to  Bir.  reach  the  Euphrates  near  Beles.  But  the  dread  of  the 
Arabs  made  it  almost  impossible  to  procure  guides  and 
animals  to  go  thither,  and  I  was  reluctantly  obliged  to 
take  the  route  of  Bir.  This,  as  the  caravan  line  to 
Upper  Mesopotamia,  is  better  known  than  that  by 
Beles ;  and  while  engaging  my  horses,  and  making  my 
preparations,  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  fall  in  with  Mon- 

vincint  sicur  Vinciut  Germain,  an  Aleppine,  then  employed  as 
assistant-engineer  by  the  French  Consul.  This  gentle- 
man had — partly  from  information  obtained  from  others, 
partly  from  his  own  local  knowledge — ^laid  down  a  map 
of  the  country  between  Aleppo  and  the  sea,  and  also 
for  some  distance  to  the  east  of  the  city.     Finding  his 

*  We  obtained  a  considerable  supply  of  this  material  when  putting 
together  the  '  Euphrates '  and  '  Tigris  ^  steamers,  in  1836. 


BUM   KALEH.  137 

acquaintance  with  the  features  of  the  country  hkely  to    chap. 
be  of  service  to  my  immediate  and  future  objects,  I  ^ — r-^ 


made  a  contingent  arrangement  for  his  employment,  in 
case  the  proposed  route  through  Northern  Syria  should 
eventually  be  carried  out* 

I  devoted  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  the  commerce  Mr.  Lang- 
and  advantages  of  Aleppo,  and  left  it  on  February  26, 
accompanied  by  the  late  Mr.  Eichard  Langton,  who 
was  anxious  to  extend  his  travels  towards  Orfah  and 
the  Upper  Euphrates.  Three  days'  journey  by  the 
Eiyer  Sajour  brought  us  to  the  castellated  work  from 
which   the   name  of  Eum  Kaleh  is  derived,   which  Rum 

.        Kaleh. 

occupies  the  summit  of  an  elevated  hmestone  hill, 
overhanging  the  banks  of  the  river.  This  hill  is  again 
washed,  on  its  southern  side,  by  a  copious  affluent  of 
the  main  stream  coming  from  the  west,  which  in  the 
latter  part  of  its  coiu^  flows  through  a  rocky  valley. 
In  the  angle  thus  formed  stands  the  little  town  of  Eum 
Ealeh,  consisting  of  about  900  poor  houses ;  but  the 
command  of  this  passage  into  Mesopotamia  gives  con- 
siderable importance  to  this  place  and  its  castle. 

Eesuming  our  journey  near  the  left  side  of  the  river, 
which  was  still  deep  and  broad,  we  passed  successively 
the  villages  of  ICafr-Beg,  Karamizo,  and  Argur.  Near  RemainB, 
the  latter,  which  stands  on  a  low  round  hill,  are  an  arti-  aSSc-^  ^ 
fidal  mound,  and  many  scattered  remains  of  sculptures, 
among  which  there  were  two  large  sarcophagi,  despoiled 
of  their  lids,  but  having  a  portion  of  stone  left  at  the 
extremity,  to  serve  as  a  pillow  for  the  head.  In  this 
immediate  vicinity  were  three  cisterns  hewn  out  of  the 
rock,  and  we  found  many  other  proofs  that  we  stood 
on  the  site  of  an  ancient  city — possibly  that  of  the 


muBia. 


138 


NABRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPBDITIOX. 


X3HAP.    Anthemusia  of  Pliny.*     We  examined  several  most  in- 

VII 

^ — .-^  teresting  rock  sepulchres ;  they  were  destitute  of  human 
Excavated  remains,   but  were   otherwise   quite  perfect.     Fig.  1 

tombs  near      ,  ,  *  o 

Anthe-  gives  an  outline  of  the  groimd-plan  of  one  of  these 
structures,  which  has  the  form  of  a  cross.  Fig.  2  is  a 
section  along  the  dotted  line,  c  D  of  fig.  1,  giving  an  ele- 
vation of  this  portion  of  the  sepulchre.    Again,  fig.  3  is 


6   f  ■;. 


Fig.  4. 


■mr 


an  elevation  of  the  two  recesses  for  bodies,  corre- 
sponding to  the  dotted  hue  E  F.  Fig.  4  represents  the 
exterior  i)art  of  the  entrance,  which  is  hewn  out  of  the 

•  Lib.  V.  cap.  24. 


THE  EUPHRATES  AT  SAMSAT.  139 

solid  rock,*  and  a  circular  stone  is  made  to  roll  up  and     chap. 
down  from  the  doorway  between  two  grooves,  and  is 


thus  moved  from  its  position  at  c,  to  that  of  the  dotted  fl^^f 
line  above  M,  where,  by  means  of  a  chain,  it  is  secured 
to  the  rock. 

The  lateness  of  the  hour,  and  the  distance  to  our  On  to 
proposed  halting-place,  prevented  any  moi*e  minute 
examination  either  of  these  or  of  some  other  remains, 
which  we  met  with  on  our  way  to  Samsat,  or  Sameisat, 
which  we  were  anxious  to  see.  With  daylight,  how- 
ever, we  found  only  a  square  and  lofty  mound,  with 
some  scattered  fragments  of  columns  and  other  portions 
of  buildings  remaining — the  sole  ruins  of  this  once 
important  place.  Its  site  is  a  remarkable  one,  for  the  Bend  at 
Euphrates  here  makes  that  great  bend  which  is  specially 
noticed  by  Pliny  .f  From  this  point  we  changed  the 
direction  of  our  route,  and,  leaving  the  river,  passed 
through  the  two  considerable  villages  of  Ordel,  and 
crossing  some  grassy  downs  we  reached  Orfiah. 

To  this  place  I  had  looked  forward  with  much  Orfah. 
interest  Its  history  as  a  royal  dty,  its  much  earlier 
connection  with  Job  and  Abraham,  and  its  present  as 
well  as  future  importance  with  regard  to  trade  (of 
which  its  position  has  at  all  times  made  it  an  em- 
porium), naturally  gave  it  great  consequence  in  my 
eyes.  Its  appearance,  as  the  traveller  approaches,  is 
most  picturesque.  It  occupies  the  intervening  valley, 
as  well  as  the  slopes  of  two  hills,  which  jut  out  from  the 
range  of  neighbouring  moimtains.  On  their  southern 
side  is  the  castle,  which,  as  well  as  the  town  itself,  is 
defended  by  high  walls  flanked  by  square  towers.    The 

♦  St.  Matthew,  xxvii.  60  j  St.  Mark,  xv.  46. 
t  Lib.  v^  cap.  24. 


( 


140  NABRATIVB  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    city  contains   900  Turkish,  800  Annenian,  and  200 

' — r-^  Syrian  houses,  all  well-built — also  numerous  baths,  and 
about  twenty  mosques,  one  of  which  is  a  remarkably 
handsome  building,  with  two  large  ponds  attached  to 
it  full  of  sacred  fish. 

Kihaor  The   exteusive   excavations  in  the  vicinity  of  the 

town  are  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  ancient  Riha 
or  Edessa,  and  on  the  adjoining  hill  are  the  scattered 
ruins  of  a  building  attributed  to  Nimrud. 

It  had  been  our  intention  to  proceed  from  Orfah  to 
Jaber  Castle,  with  a  view  to  examine  that  part  of  the 
Euphrates ;  but  so  many  difficulties  were  made  by  our 
people,  and  so  much  hostihty  evinced  by  the  natives, 
that  prudence  obliged  us  to  relinquish  our  intention, 

Return  to  and  Mr.  Langton  and  myself  hastened  back  to  Aleppo, 
hoping  to  find  the  means  of  resuming  our  examination 
of  the  river  from  thence.  Fear  of  the  Arabs,  however, 
met  us  on  all  sides,  and  compelled  us  eventually  to 
give  up  our  project,  and  satisfy  ourselves  with  such 
information  as  could  be  obtained  at  Aleppo.  In  the 
event  of  carrying  out  a  route  to  India  by  the  Euphrates, 
Aleppo  would  again  become,  as  it  was  in  olden  times, 
the  central  point  of  commimication  with  Europe,  and, 
as  a  necessary  consequence,  its  port  became  an  object 
of  especial  consideration. 

Bay  of  The  Bay  of  Antioch,  as  Napoleon's  expected  place 

of  disembarkation  on  his  contemplated  expedition  to 
India,  was  the  first  part  of  the  coast  to  be  examined ; 
the  Bay  of  Scanderoon  was  the  second.  To  both  of 
these  points  I  gave  particular  attention,  and  also  took 
into    consideration    the    possibihty  of   restoring   the 

l^ieucia.^   aucieut  port  of  Seleucia;  and  then  journeyed  onwards 


THE  PROPOSED   UNB  TO   INDIA.  141 

through   Asia  Minor,  still  accompanied   by  my  late    chap. 
fiiend,  Mr.  Langton.  ■-    ,  -- 

On  my  return  to  Constantinople,  I  found  that  Sir  ^'^"^  ^ 
Eobert  Gordon  had  been  succeeded  by  Sir  Stratford  tinopie. 
Canning  as  ambassador  to  the  Porte  ;  and,  happily  for 
me,  his  interest  in  the  proposed  line  to  India  equalled 
that  of  his  predecessor,  who  had  taken  the  first  steps  in 
its  consideration ;  and  the  influence  of  both  ambassadors 
was  ably  and  warmly  seconded  at  home  by  the  late  Eight 
Hon.  John  Sullivan,  whose  exertions  led  eventually  to 
the  advocacy  of  the  late  Bang,  and  to  the  train  of 
events  to  be  narrated  in  the  succeeding  pages. 


i 


142  NABRATIVB  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 


CHAPTEE  Vm. 

PROGRESS  OF  THE  STEAM  QUESTION — INTERVIEW  WITH  HIS  HAJEfflT 
KING  WILLIAM  IV.,  REGARDING  THE  TWO  PROPOSITIONS  OF  COM- 
MUNICATION WITH  INDU — A  COMMITTBB  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF 
COMMONS  EXAMINES  THE  QUESTION,  AND  VOTES  £20,000  FOR  AN 
EXPERIMENT   BT  THE   EUPHRATES. 

CHAP.  During  the  period  occupied  by  the  journeys  and  ex- 
^ — r-^  plorations  in  Asiatic  Turkey,  Syria,  Arabia,  and  Persia, 
of  which  I  have  given  some  account  in  the  preceding 
chapters — that  is  to  say,  during  1829-30-31  and  32 — 
I  had  from  time  to  time  sent  home  reports  to  Govern- 
ment of  the  results  of  my  observations,  more  especially 
as  regarded  the  different  lines  of  communication 
between  England  and  India.  1  do  not  propose  to  lay 
these  reports  before  the  reader— enough  has  been  said 
of  the  countries  and  people  through  which  I  passed 
during  these  investigations.  But  I  refer  to  these 
reports,  because  to  them  may  possibly  be  attributed  the 
growing  interest  in  the  question  of  the  Euphrates  hne 
stmm  to  the  East,  of  which  I  became  more  fiilly  aware  on 
^Son^th  ™y  return  home  in  1832,  and  which  eventuated  in  the 
^°^'**  appointment  of  the  Steam  Committee  of  the  House  of 
Commons,  which  met  in  June  1834  to  consider  the 
question  of  alternate  lines  of  communication  with 
India,  through  Egypt  in  the  one  case,  and  Arabia  in 
the  other.  Still,  although  the  actual  necessity  of  one 
or  both  of  these  hues  was  very  generally  felt,  the  all- 


PBOGBESS  OF  THE  STEAM  QUESTION.  143 

absorbing  question  of  Parliamentary  Eeform  would  chap. 
have  made  it  almost  impossible  to  secure  public  atten-  ■■  >  '-- 
tion  to  such  an  undertaking  at  this  period,  had  it  not 
received  the  support  of  several  influential  advocates. 
My  observations  on  the  Egyptian  and  Arabian  lines  of 
route,  and  the  map  which  I  had  laid  down  of  the  Eiver 
Euphrates,  on  a  scale  of  2  inches  to  a  mile,  attracted 
the  attention  of  the  late  Sir  Augustus  Fraser,  as  well 
as  that  of  Sir  Alexander  Dickson,  Deputy  Adjutant- 
General  Eoyal  Artillery.  They  also  came  under  the 
notice  of  the  Earl  of  Munster  and  Lord  Beresford,  and, 
which  was  of  more  consequence,  under  that  of  Sir 
James  Kempt,  G.C.B.,  then  Master-General  of  the 
Ordnance.  Sir  James  did  not  confine  himself  to  ordi- 
nary official  forms,  for,  after  giving  the  subject  of  the 
overland  route  his  personal  consideration,  he  thought 
it  incumbent  upon  him,  as  a  matter  of  duty,  to  bring 
the  question  of  steam  communication  before  the  late 
King.  Although  this  question  was  then  quite  in  its 
infancy,  the  necessity  as  well  as  the  practicability  of 
more  rapid  communication  with  India  at  once  attracted 
His  Majesty's  special  attention,  and  that  also  of  many 
influential  individuals,  amongst  whom  were  the  late 
Sir  Eobert  Inghs,  Lord  Holland,  Sir  John  Barrow,  Advocates 
Sir  John  and  Sir  Pulteney  Malcolm,  General  Sir  Euphrates 
Willoughby  Gordon,  Lord  Hill,  and  Lord  Palmerston.  *°** 
Early  in  1833, 1  was  induced  by  the  late  Mr.  Peacock, 
of  the  India  House,  to  print  my  memoir  on  the 
Euphrates  route  with  its  map,  in  order  to  make  the 
subject  more  widely  known,  and  it  was  privately 
circulated  early  in  February  of  that  year.  This  step 
gained  several  fresh  advocates  to  the  cause,  one  of 


144  NABBATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    the  most  valuable  of  whom  was  the  late  Eight  Hon. 

VIII.  ^ 


John  Sullivan,  who,  in  bringing  the  ripened  judgment 
of  a  green  old  age  to  the  consideration  of  the  over- 
land route,  renewed  the  energies  of  his  early  hfe,  when, 
after  travelling  through  Asia  Minor  to  Mesopotamia,  he 
descended  the  river  Tigris  on  a  raft,  supported  on 
inflated  skins,  and  having  reached  India  in  1782,  to 
fill  a  high  civil  appointment,  he  had  ever  since  felt  and 
evinced  the  greatest  interest  in  the  route  through 
Arabia,  which  he  regarded  as  one  very  important  means 
of  giving  security  to  the  Une  of  the  Indus.  At  a  later 
period  only,  I  learnt  that  Mr.  Sullivan  had  not  only 
been  moving  Lords  Lansdowne,  Palmerston,  and 
Goderich  on  this  subject,  but  privately,  through  Sir 
Herbert  Taylor,  had  been  again  drawing  the  King's 
attention  to  the  question,  for  whidi  His  Majesty  had 
been  already  prepared  by  the  Master-General  of  the 
Ordnance.  I  was,  however,  quite  ignorant  of  this 
friendly  advocacy,  and  it  was  therefore  a  surprise  to 
Summoned  mc  to  rcccivc  the  King's  commands  to  attend  at  St. 

to  attend  ,  .  i         i 

the  King.    James  8  vnth    the  maps  and  papers  relating  to  the 
Euphrates. 

This  interview  was  a  memorable  one  to  me  in  many 
ways,  and  I  trust  that  its  results  may  yet  bear  fruit 
for  our  country.  It  took  place  on  April  16,  1833, 
and  I  well  remember  that  when  on  my  way  to  the 
palace,  I  met  my  friend  Sir  William  Knighton,  who  on 
hearing  of  the  immediate  object  of  my  attendance,  gave 
me  a  hint  to  be  prepared  to  answer  any  questions  which 
the  King  might  put  vrithout  hesitation.  *  For,'  added 
Sir  William,  *  he  will  at  once  seize  upon  the  leading 
points,  which  you  should  make  quite  clear  and  very 


THE   KINO   AND   THE  EUPHRATES  QUESTION.  145 

prominent ;  and  if  you  do  this,  His  Majesty  will  never    chap. 
forget  their  bearings.'  "^ — r-^ 

On  being  admitted  to  the  King's  presence,  I  naturally 
left  the  great  map  and  papers  outside,  but  they  were  at 
once  asked  for.  I  was  desired  to  open  them.  *  Let  us 
begin,'  said  His  Majesty,  most  graciously,  *  by  getting 
a  general  idea  of  the  coimtries  you  visited ;'  and  having 
opened  his  own  atlas  for  this  purpose,  he  went  into  all 
the  details  as  well  as  the  relative  advantages  of  both 
the  routes. 

Then  tracing  on  the  index  map  the  two  competing  Reiatire 
lines  to  Bombay,  I  begged  His  Majesty  to  observe  that  tages  of 
one  of  these  lines  follows  the  direct  and  natural  course  routes, 
of  the  Euphrates  and  Persian  Gulf — ^the  shortest  line,  in 
fact,  between  London  and  Bombay — whereas  the  other, 
by  following  the  Bed  Sea,  diverges  for  a  distance  of 
1,230  miles,  viz.,  from  the  entrance  of  the  Bed  Sea  to 
that  of  the  Persian  Gulf ;  adding  that  the  shorter  dis- 
tance to  India  was  not  the  only  advantage  of  the 
Arabian  over  the  African  route,  since  in  the  one  case 
the  wind  and  sea  are  right  ahead  for  a  distance  of  2,014 
miles  during  the  monsoon,  whereas  they  are  abeam 
at  the  same  season  of  the  year  when  steaming  towards 
the  Euphrates.  I  had  scarcely  concluded  these  re- 
marks when  the  King  said,  with  much  animation,  '  I 
am  a  sailor,  and  these  points  are,  in  my  opinion,  quite 
conclusive.' 

His  Majesty  now  alluded  to  the  serious  apprehension  Move- 
caused  by  the  presence  of  the  Bussian  fleet  at  Constan-  Ruwia. 
tinople,  as  well  as  by  the  gradual  advance  of  that 
Power  towards  the  Indus,  and  the  consequent  necessity 
of  strengthening  Persia ;  adding,  that  as  an  additional 

L 


/ 


146  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    security  to  our  position  it  might  be  advisable  to  carry 
— r-^  out  my  suggestion  by  adding  a  steam  flotilla  to  the 
Bombay  Marine.* 

Towards  the  end  of  this  interview  the  King  enquired 
how  I  came  to  be  employed,  which  being  answered,  I 
added  that  I  had  given  up  the  maps  as  well  as  the 
whole  of  the  information  I  had  then  collected  to  the 
Government.      '  That  is  quite  right,'  observed  His  Ma- 
jesty ;  adding,  *  But  how  have  you  been  received?  and 
How  tho     what  interest  have  my  Ministers  taken  in  the  question 
wa^  viewed  jo^  ^avc  brought  forward  ?  '    I  replied  that  much  in- 
tL^*"^^     terest  about  steam  had  been  expressed  by  Lords  Lans- 
downe  and  Eipon,  as  well  as  by  Mr.  Grant,  but  that  the 
all-important  question  of  a  rapid  communication  with 
India  did  not  advance. 

His  Majesty  observed  that  people  sometimes  hesitate 
till  the  opportunity  is  lost,  but  that  he  would  take  care 
to  urge  the  matter  onwards  ;  adding,  that  I  was  to  make 
known  to  him  from  time  to  time,  through  Sir  Herbert 
Taylor,  what  was  doing,  that  he  might  give  it  furtherance 
if  necessary. 

He  then  assisted  me  in  folding  up  the  large  maps, 

reiterating  his  approbation  and  interest  in  what  had  been 

done ;  and  an  interview  of  more  than  an  hour  terminated 

Royal        with  the  confident  expectation  on  my  part  that  the  Royal 

Buppo  .     gyppQi-i;  i-hus  promised  would  be  continued  until  the 

Overland  Route  should  be  fairly  established. 

Owing  to  its  political  bearings,  it  had  been  arranged 
that  the  steam  question  should  come  under  the  special 
consideration  of  some  members  of  the  Cabinet.     It  was 

♦  *  Minutes  of  Evidence  of  the  Select  Committee,  &c.,  on  Steam  Navi- 
gfttion  to  India/  p.  62.— July  14,  1834. 


THE  RUSSIANS  AT  CONSTANTINOPLE.  147 

subsequently  settled  that  Lord  Lanadowne  should  bring    chap. 

VIII 

the  subject  of  overland  communications  with  India  be-  ^ — r-^ 


fore  the  Lords,  and  that  Mr.  Grant  should  do  the  same  Proposed 

vot©  of 

in  the  Commons ;  whilst  occasional  articles  in  the  TimeSj  Pariia- 
Standard^  and  other  papers,  showed  that  the  subject  was  "^*° 
attracting  public  attention,  notwithstanding  the  serious 
and  sometimes,  it  almost  seemed,  insuperable  difficulties 
in  its  way,  one  of  which  was  the  aggressive  power  of 
Bussia  in  the  East. 

During  this  summer  she  had  sent  a  fleet  and  army  to 
Constantinople,  and  the  startling  fact  that  Turkey  was 
almost  in  the  power  of  the  Czar  naturally  caused  much 
uneasiness :  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  towards  the  close 
of  1833  it  was  generally  believed  that  the  Cabinet  was 
occupied  with  the  momentous  consideration  of  what 
could  and  ought  to  be  done  by  Great  Britain  to  extri- 
cate the  Sultan  from  his  actual  state  of  thraldom. 

This  untoward  position  of  pubHc  affairs  necessarily 
put  the  Euphrates  enterprise  aside  for  tlie  moment — 
whilst  I  endeavoured  to  turn  my  local  knowledge  to 
some  account  by  showing  that  we  had  ample  means  at 
command  of  forcing  the  Dardanelles,  and  of  thus  rescu-  Projected 
ing  Turkey  from  her  coming  subjection  to  the  Czar.    Li  thi^  r^r-^ 
the  early  part  of  February,  I  submitted  to  Government,  ^*°®^^*^''* 
through  Sir  Kobert  Gordon,  the  project  of  a  coup-de- 
main  against  the  Dardanelles,  which,  as  I  afterwards 
learnt  from  Sir  Herbert  Taylor,  was  submitted  to  the 
King.     A  more  passive  course,  however,  appears  to 
have  been  thought  advisable. 

The  question  of  opening  a  communication  with  India 
was  resumed  in  the  early  part  of  1834,  under  the  aus- 
pices of  Lords  Lansdowne  and  Ripon,  with  the  co-opera- 

L  2 


148 


NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
VIII. 


Committoe 
of  the 
House  of 
Commons 
on  the 
Euphrates, 


and  pro- 
ceedings. 


Members 
of  the 
Com- 
mittee. 


tion  of  Mr.  Grant,  who  had  asked  Lord  Althorp,  then 
Prime  Minister,  to  provide  the  necessary  funds  for  an 
experimental  expedition.  But  a  few  days  after  this  pro- 
posal had  been  made,  I  had  the  serious  disappointment 
of  learning,  privately^  that  as  the  Cabinet  was  divided 
upon  the  Euphrates  question,  it  would  become  necessary 
for  the  satisfaction  of  its  supporters  to  appeal  to  Parlia- 
ment. In  consequence  of  this  determination  a  Com- 
mittee of  the  House  of  Commons  met  on  Jime  9, 
with  Mr.  Grant  as  chairman,  and  a  most  influen- 
tial body  of  members,  many  of  whom  had  sought  this 
opportunity  of  promoting  an  undertaking  now  so  much 
desired  by  the  pubUc  at  large.* 

The  first  examination  was  that  of  Mr.  Peacock,  who 
had  already  done  much  to  prepare  the  way  for  steam- 
communication  with  India. 

Mine  followed ;  and  I  commenced  by  describing  at 
some  length  tlie  three  principal  routes  to  and  from 
India,  with  many  particulars  bearing  upon  these  in 
connection  with  that  country. 

The  Committee  went  most  carefully  and  fiilly  into  the 
questions  of  the  practical  working  of  these  routes,  as 
well  as  of  the  general  capabilities  of  steam-vesseli^  and 
their  adaptation  to  distant  sea-voyages.  Eiver-naviga- 
tion  was  also  a  good  deal  considered,  and  other  matters 
bearing  upon  steam- vessels  at  large.f 

Several  Resolutions  were  adopted,  one  of  which  was 

*  Sir  James  Graham,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Sir  Robert  Inglifli  Viscoimt 
SaDdon,  Lord  Ossulston,  Mr.  Robert  Grant,  Mr.  Hume,  Mr.  Stuart  Mac- 
kenzie, Admiral  Adam,  Captain  Elliot,  Sir  Robert  Gordon,  Mr.  Cutler 
Fergusson,  Mr.  Lyall,  Mr.  Young,  Mr.  Shiel,  Colonel  Evans,  Mr.  Buddng- 
bam,  Mr.  Powlett  Thomson,  Mr.  Todd,  Mr.  Rumbold,  Mr.  Blake  of 
Galway,  Mr.  Martin  of  Sligo,  and  Mr.  Strutt 

t  *  Report  on  Steam  Navigation  to  India,'  July  14, 1884. 


SELECTION  OF  THE  OOMHANDEB.  149 

that  steam  navigation  might  be  carried  on  during  eight    chap. 
months  in  the  year  between  Bombay  and  Suez — the  — .-^ 
months  of  June,  July,  August,  and  September  being 
left  for  the  results  of  further  experience. 

The  twelfth  and  concluding  Eesolution  recommended  20.000/.  to 
a  grant  of  20,000Z.  for  an  experiment  to  be  made  for  Euphrates! 
communication  with  India  by  the  Euphrates  with  the 
least  possible  delay. 

Funds  being  thus  made  available,  the  management 
of  the  operative  part  became  the  next  consideration. 
The  late  Mr.  Cabell,  of  the  India  Board,  who  had  al- 
ready taken  a  very  active  part  in  the  question,  sounded 
me,  from  Mr.  Grant,  as  to  my  readiness  to  undertake 
the  management  of  the  intended  Expedition — my  doing 
so  being,  in  his  opinion,  essential  to  its  success.  The 
same  question  was  put  to  me  by  Mr.  Grant  himself  a 
few  days  later.  I  replied  that,  owing  to  a  promise 
made  to  my  family,  I  was  not  at  hberty  to  accept  the 
charge,  unless  a  more  competent  individual  could  not 
be  found — such  as  Colonel  Colebroke  or  Dr.  Colqu- 
houn,  who  were  eminently  qualified  for  this  task.  A 
few  days  afterwards  Mr.  Grant  sent  for  me,  and  made 
known  to  me  that  as  Colonel  Colebroke  had,  after  some 
consideration,  declined  the  position,  he  now  looked  to 
me  to  take  charge  of  the  enterprise.  I  at  once  ex- 
pressed my  readiness  to  do  my  best,  if  the  King  should  The  King 
be  pleased  to  command  my  services,  and  it  so  happened  my  ser- 
that  His  Majesty  gave  directions  to  that  effect  personally 
the  same  afternoon. 


vices. 


i 


15U  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION'. 


CHAPTEE  IX. 

ENTRUSTED  WITH  THE  COMMAND  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION — 
AGAIN  COMMANDED  TO  ATTEND  THE  KING — DIFFICULTIES  OF  THE  EX- 
PEDITION— PREPARATIONS  AT  LIVERPOOL — THE  '  GEORGE  CANNING* 
CHARTERED — MR.  FITZJAME8  INTREPIDLY  SAVES  A  DROWNING  TIDE- 
WAITER — VOYAGE  TO  MALTA — VOYAGE  TO  THE  COAST  OF  STBU — OPPO- 
SITION OF  THE  PACHA  OF  EGYPT — LANDING  OP  THE  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.    Bearing  in  mind  the  King's  permission  to  communicate 
— * — '  with  him  from  time  to  time,  I  made  known  to  His 
Majesty,  through  Sir  Herbert  Taylor,  that  it  had  been 
of^thT*"^   settled  that  I  was  to  conduct  the  Expedition ;  and  an 
Expedi-      immediate  reply  not  only  signified  the  King's  entire 
approbation,  but  also  his  readiness  to  move  the  Ord- 
nance and  other  departments  to  give   the  necessary 
assistance    in  carrying  out   all  preparations  for  the 
imdertaking. 

Had  I  not  received  this  very  unexpected  encourage- 
ment, the  difficulties  I  met  with  might  have  seemed 
almost  insiu-mountable  ;  but  with  the  warm  support  of 
our  gracious  Sovereign,   the  task  was  rendered  com- 
paratively easy.     A  detailed  list  of  our  requirements 
Further-     was,  by  Command  of  His  Majesty,  sent  to  the  various 
cwTnance*  departments ;  and  the  result  was  that  everything  was 
depa^  ^^    from  time  to  time  most  willingly  supplied  by  each. 
menu.  rj\^^  stcamcrs,  ou  which  as  a  matter  of  course  the 

other  preparations  mainly  depended,  were  forthwith  put 
in  hand.  They  were  the  fourth  and  fifth  of  this  then 
novel  class  of  vessel,  which  has  rendered  such  services 
of  late  years  in  the  Chinese  and  Indian  waters. 


EQUIPMENTS  AND   PBEPA&ATIONS.  151 

The  moderately  short  delay  necessary  for  the  pre-    chap. 
paration  of  these  vessels,  with  their  water-tight  com-  ^ — . — ' 
partments  and  other  fitments,  in  Messrs.  Lairds'  yard,  pr«pMa- 
as  well  as  the  construction  of  the  engines,  which  were  objecu. 
got  ready  simultaneously  in  another  establishment,  still 
gave  me  sufficient  time  to  arrange  their  armament  and 
equipments,  and  to  select  officers  and  men,  as  well  as 
engineers,  boiler-makers,  and  other  skilled  workmen, 
whose  services  were  indispensable  in  carrying  out  this 
peculiar  undertaking,   the  leading  objects  of  which 
embraced : — 

1st,  The  conveyance  of  the  materials  for  the  two 
steam-vessels  to  the  coast  of  Syria,  and  the  process 
of  landing  them  there. 

2ndly,  The  means  of  transporting  the  boilers,  en- 
gines, and  other  equipments,  from  the  seacoast  to  the 
banks  of  the  Euphrates,  a  distance  of  137  miles. 

3rdly,  To  prepare  temporary  docks  and  slips,  &c., 
in  order  to  set  up  and  float  the  vessels. 

4thly,  To  survey  the  seacoast,  the  line  across 
Northern  Syria,  and  eventually  the  Elvers  Euphrates, 
Tigris,  and  Karun. 

The  funds — ^which  in  a  popular  government  occupy  Funds. 
too  much  attention,  and  are  rarely  obtained  without 
much  difficulty — were  chiefly  supplied  by  the  Treasury ; 
and  on  this  department  I  was  authorised  to  draw  for 
the  approved  wants  of  the  Expedition.  The  East  ^ 
India  Company  was,  however,  to  contribute  5000/.,* 
and  to  afford  some  other  assistance  also — especially  by 
giving  the  services  of  Lieutenant  Henry  Blosse  Lynch, f 

*  Page  7  of  Papers  ordered  to  be  printed  by  the  House  of  LordS| 
February  28, 1838. 
t  Now  Captain  H.  B.  Lynch,  C.B.,  K.L.S. 


152  .NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     of  the  Indian  Navy,  and  subsequently  those  of  Lieu- 
' — . — '  tenant  R  B.  Lynch,  of  the  2l8t  Bengal  Infantry. 


Officers  The    Admu-alty    furnished    four    officers — namely, 

from  the     Lieutenant  R.  Cleaveland,  Messrs.  Charlewood,*  Eden,f 

^artaienta.  and  Fitzjame8,J  of  the  Eoyal  Navy — in  addition  to 

allotting  a  steamer  to  hasten  the  voyage  to  the  coast 

of  Syria. 

The  Commander-in-Chief  gave  us  the  valuable  assist- 
ance of  the  late  General  Estcourt,§  then  a  Captain  of 
the  43rd  Light  Infantry,  to  carry  on  the  survey. 
The  Trinity  House  suppUed  powerful  reflectors,  to 
inetni-       facilitate  the  navigation  by  night ;  instruments  were 
selected  and  other  assistance  given  by  the  Boyal  Ob- 
servatory at  Greenwich  ;   and  in  connection  with  this 
branch  the  late  Eev.  R.  Sheepshanks  came  forward  in 
the  handsomest  manner,  not  only  to  give  instruction 
and  assistance  to  our  astronomer,  the  late  Lieutenant 
Murphy,  but  also  to  make  arrangements  to  enable  him 
to  determine  the  latitudes  and  longitudes  as  the  basis 
of  the  intended  maps.     But  besides  obtaining  the  ser- 
vices of  this  officer,  it  became  necessary  to  draw  very 
largely  on  the  kindness  of  the  Master-General,  Sir  James 
Further-     Kempt,  G.C.B.,  and  the  Board  of  Ordnance  also;  for,  in 
o^nanco^  addition  to  myself,  Lieutenant  Murphy  of  the  Eoyal 
mXtf^       Engineers,  Lieutenant  Cockbuni  of  the  Eoyal  Artillery, 
and  two  medical  men.  Doctor  and  Mr.  A.  Staunton,  a 
number  of  skilled  artisans  were  carefully  selected  from 
the  Eoyal  Artillery  and  Eoyal  Engineers,  in  order  to 

•  Now  Captain  E.  P.  Charlewood,  R.N. 

t  Now  Captain  H.  Eden,  R.N. 

t  Who  periehed  with  Sir  John  Franklin. 

§  The  late  Major-General  Estcourt,  Adjutant-General  of  the  Forces  in 
the  Crimea. 


ABMAHENT  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  15S 

lessen  the  difficulties  of  providing  for  this  service,  chap. 
Besides  officers  and  men,  an  extensive  selection  of  ^ — < — ' 
goods,  partly  for  presents  to  the  Arabs,  but  principally 
to  facilitate  commercial  dealings  with  them,  was  kindly 
supplied  by  this  department ;  also  some  waggons,  har- 
ness, pontoons,  and  other  materials  connected  with  the 
transport  of  the  steamers,  and  the  armament  at  large,  Equip- 

t  •  -t  .        t  •!  .  i»«  Ti  menta  and 

wnich  not  only  comprised  great  guns  of  vanous  cahbre,  arma. 
some  cohoms,  Congreve  rockets,  and  wall-pieces,  but  ™*"  ' 
also  an  extensive  supply  of  ammunition,  as  well  as 
small  arms.*  The  latter  were  partly  supplied  from 
the  Tower,  and  partly  prepared  at  Birmingham  and 
Sheffield,  where  I  had  the  valuable  assistance  of  the 
late  Mr.  Lovell,  who  was  sent  with  me  by  the  Board 
of  Ordnance  to  select  arms,  and  give  the  necessary 
superintendence  at  the  same  time.  A  diving-bell,  and 
miners'  tools  of  various  kinds,  formed  part  of  our 
equipment,  and  of  course  a  supply  of  ordinary  pro- 
visions, preserved  meats,  and  wine. 

Consentaneously  with  these  matters  of  detail,  the  ofBccm 
officers  and  men  were  to  be  especiaUy  prepared  for  g^^S 
their  respective  duties.     Some  of  the  former  received  c^mii^ 
instruction  either  on  board  the  Flag-ship  at  Portsmouth,  "*'^*^*- 
or  from  my  late  friend  Professor  Narrien,  of  the  Eoyal 
Military  Collie.      Others  had  the  assistance  of  Dr. 
Bobinson,  at  the  Armagh  Observatory,  of  Mr.  Sheep- 
shanks, and  that  also  of  General  Sabine,  Dr.  Lloyd, 
Admiral  Beaufort,  and  Dr.  Fox  of  Falmouth,  for  mag- 
netic dip. 

*  Ab  detonating  locks  were  at  that  time  confined  to  sportsmen,  onlj 
one-half  of  our  muskets,  &c.  had  this  advantage,  the  remainder,  by 
way  of  precaution,  being  flint-locks. 


I 


154  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EJCPBDITION. 

CHAP.        With  a  view  to  the  preparation  of  the  artillerymen, 


IX. 


'  Sir  James  Kempt  sanctioned  my  taking  them  to  Bir- 
kenhead, where  they  not  only  had  the  advantage  of 
receiving  instruction  in  Mr.  Laird's  building  yard,  but 
also  acquired  practical  knowledge  by  working  the 
engines  of  the  ferry-boats  between  Birkenhead  and 
Liverpool.  Four  sappers  were  at  the  same  time  placed 
imder  the  late  General  Sir  Charles  Pasley,  K.C.R,  at 
Chatham,  in  order  to  be  prepared  not  only  for  the  duty 
of  assistants  in  working  the  engines,  but  also  for  the 
management  of  a  diving-bell,  and  instructed  likewise 
in  the  method  of  blowing  up  rocks  under  water. 

The  preparations,  therefore,   were   extennve,  and 
commensurate  with  the  important  objects  we  had  in 
view,  which  embraced :  a  survey  of  Northern  Sjrria, 
with  its  coast-hne  on  one  side  and  the  Mesopotamian 
rivers  on  the  other ;  and  a  line  of  levels  fix>m  the  sea 
to  the  Upper  Euphrates,  with  reference  to  the  practi- 
cability of  opening,  a  canal  for  part  of  that  distance. 
On  making  known  to  Sir  Herbert  Taylor  that  our 
The  King    preparations  were  almost  completed,   the   King  was 
my  attend-  plcascd  to  commaud  my  attendance  at  St.  James's  on 
November  19. 

His  Majesty  at  once  entered  upon  the  subject  of 
steam-communication  with  Lidia  by  the  Euphrates^  and 
went  at  some  length  into  my  recent  proposal  of  opening 
simultaneously  a  second  hne  through  Egypt.  Then 
tiurning  to  that  of  Arabia,  and  the  preparations  for  its 
establishment,  as  well  as  its  political  advantages,  par- 
Capabiiity  ticularly  with  reference  to  an  invasion  of  Lidia,  His 
officers.  Majesty  enquired  into  the  character  and  qualifications 
of  the  various  officers   selected   for  the  Expedition, 


INTBEVIBW  WITH  THE   KINO.  155 

banning  with  Captain  Efitcourt  and  Lieutenants  Lynch,    chap. 
Cleaveland,  and  Cockbum,   and  then   into  those  of  ' — r-^ 


Messrs,  Charlewood,  Fitzjames,  Eden,  Ainsworth, 
Thomson,  and  the  two  Stauntons  ;  also — though  in  a 
more  general  way — enquiring  about  the  men  for  the 
Expedition.  His  Majesty  having  kindly  expressed  his 
approbation  of  all  my  arrangements,  my  own  turn  fol- 
lowed, and  it  became  necessary  to  answer  some  of 
those  questions  which  at  times  the  late  King  was  wpnt 
to  put  rather  blxmtly.  Having  replied  to  enquiries 
about  my  birth,  age,  and  services.  His  Majesty  suddenly 
added,  '  But  who  is  your  fitther  ?  ' — *  Please  Your  Ma-  Pereonai 
jesty,  an  American  loyalist,  who,  at  the  head  of  an  ©nquipi!^^ 
independent  troop  of  dragoons,  was  twice  wounded  and  ^^^ 
three  times  taken  prisoner.' — *  Well  ?  '  said  the  King, 
in  a  tone  which  unmistakably  expressed  What  then  ? — 
*  Please  Your  Majesty,  my  father  served  under  Lords 
Moira  and  Comwallis,  and  being  with  the  latter  when 
the  capitulation  of  Charleston  ended  the  war,  he 
returned  to  L:^land  almost  penniless,  his  property  on 
the  Packolet  Kiver,  in  South  Carolina,  having  been  con- 
fiscated. But  all  was  not  quite  gone  ;  for,  as  a  loyalist, 
he  not  only  received  a  revenue  appointment,  but  an 
additional  compensation  in  consequence  of  the  arrange- 
ments made  by  the  Government  of  Your  Majesty's 
father ;  and  it  was  owing  to  a  kind  recollection  of  the 
American  campaigns  by  Lords  Moira  and  Comwallis, 
that  my  brother  and  myself  received  appointments  in 
the  service.' 

The  King  then  reiterated  his  approbation  of  all  the 
arrangements  and  preparations  made  for  the  Expedition, 
expressed  a  desire  to  have  the  first  copy  of  the  intended 


156  NARBATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    maps,  and,  on  taking  leave,  with  much  warmth  gave 

IX 

^ — r-l— '  me  his  blessing. 

Beparture       Two  OF  three  davs  later  Lieutenant  Lynch  left  for  the 

of  Liieut. 

Lynch.  coast  of  Syria,  to  get  camels  and  make  other  arrange- 
ments for  the  reception  of  the  Expedition ;  but  just  as 
all  seemed  to  be  ready,  unexpected  changes  occurred  at 
home,  giving  rise  to  the  most  tiymg  delays. 

The  Duke  of  Wellington  took  office  at  this  moment, 
and  on  finding  that  there  had  been  difficulties  about 
brevet  rank  in  my  case,  he  at  once  ended  what  had 
hitherto  been  a  vexed  question  by  a  Minute,  stating 
*  that  Captain  Chesney  should  go  out  as  Colonel  on  a 
particular  service,  and  leave  the  rest  to  His  Majesty's 
Government,'  which  no  doubt  in  part  bore  reference  to 
my  offer  (which  had  been  accepted)  of  serving  with- 
out pay.     My  commission  was  made  out  accordingly. 
Another  question,  however,  remained  to  be  settled.     I 
Martial      had  Urged  the  authority  of  martial  law  in  case  of  ne- 
^eS.  "     cessity,  about  which  the  popular  feeling  of  the  moment 
caused  some  difficulty.     This  was  also  at  once  decided 
by  the  Duke  during  my  interview  with  him  on  Decem- 
ber 8,  when  he  proposed  to  send  the  requisite  commis- 
sion to  meet  the  Expedition  at  Malta.     A  still  more 
serious  question  next  arose  as  to  where  the  Expedition 
should  land.     Lord  EUenborough,  who  was  now  at  the 
Lord         head  of  the  Board  of  Control,  sent  for  me  with  the  inten- 
w^h      tion  of  substituting  Basrah  for  the  coast  of  Syria.  I  stated 
SwraiiT     various  objections  to  such  a  change,  amongst  others  my 
belief  that  an  ascent  instead  of  a  descent  of  the  Biver 
Euphrates  would  dispose  the  Arabs  to  be  hostile  to 
what  would  appear  to  them  like  an  invasion  of  their 
country.     His  Lordship  listened  readily  and  discussed 


OBDEBS  TO  BREAK  UP  THE  EXPEDITION.  157 

the  bearings  of  the  question  without,  however,  quite    chap. 


IX. 


giving  way,  but  expressed  his  willingness  to  abide  by  - 
some  practical  opinion.  I  suggested  that  of  the  Hy- 
drographer  of  the  Admiralty;  ^d,  as  'time  and  chance' 
would  have  it,  Sir  Francis  Beaufort  was  actually  in  the 
waiting-room  at  the  moment,  and  gave  us  his  decided 
opinion  *  that  the  landing  in  Syria  would  be  far  more  butdecidea 
speedy,  and  that  if  the  Expedition  proceeded  by  way  of  ^ 
Basrah,  we  should  hear  no  more  of  the  undertaking/ 
This  was  considered  conclusive.  The  instruction  of  the 
men  and  the  preparation  of  the  two  vessels  were  re- 
sumed next  morning  at  Birkenhead,  and  continued  until 
a  fresh  summons  recalled  me  to  London  to  receive 
orders  to  break  up  the  Expedition  altogether. 

K  the  reader  is  becoming  interested  in  me  and  my  The  aban- 
difficulties,  he  will  go  along  with  me  in  the  singular  con-  theTxp^ 
catenation  of  circumstances  which  gave  me  encourage-  pj»^/^ 
ment  as  I  was  on  my  way  to  the  India  Board  next 
morning  for  this  purpose. 

Passing  along  St.  James's  Street,  I  met,  in  succession, 
precisely  the  three  individuals  who  were  able  to  give 
me  the  most  important  information  relative  to  the 
prospects  of  the  Expedition — and  when  it  was  a  thou- 
sand to  one  against  my  meeting  one  after  the  other  at 
this  particular  crisis.  The  first  was  Sir  Bobert  Gordon, 
who  assured  me  that  there  must  be  some  misimder- 
standing  about  the  object  of  my  recall,  since  the  Duke 
of  Wellington  himself  had  told  him  that  he  had  ex- 
plained to  Lord  Ellenborough,  that  as  the  Expedition 
had  been  organised  in  consequence  of  an  Act  of  ParUa- 
ment  it  would  not  be  right  to  break  it  up.  This  was 
cheering. 


158  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        The  second,  and  my  particular  ally  on  this  occasion, 
' — r-^— '  was  the  Turkish  Ambassador,  Namik  Pacha.     He  in- 


formed me  that  he  had  now  received  instructions  to 
give  the  Expedition  every  fiirtherance.  With  my  hopes 
thus  raised,  I  met  my  third  friend  Mr.  (now  Sir  John) 
McNeill,  who,  on  hearing  that  it  was  in  contemplation 
to  break  up  the  Expedition,  took  a  letter  from  his 
pocket  and  read  these  conclusive  words  from  Lord 
Ponsonby — then  Ambassador  at  Constantinople — *I 
have  carried  the  Euphrates  question.'  These  bright 
hopes,  however,  only  lasted  until  I  reached  the  India 
Board,  where  Lord  Ellenborough  made  known  to  me 
that  the  Expedition  was  to  be  broken  up  on  account  of 
the  determination  of  the  Porte  to  stop  it.  Without 
going  into  the  rest  of  the  information  I  had  just  received, 
I  expressed  my  surprise  as  regarded  the  Porte,  Namik 
Pacha  having  just  told  me  that  he  was  instructed  to 
give  us  every  furtherance.  Lord  Ellenborough  reverted 
to  his  previous  intention,  and  instructed  me  to  prepare 
a  statement  to  show  wliat  could  best  be  done  with  our 
various  materials,  when  breaking  up  the  Expedition. 

I  accordingly  placed  a  paper  to  this  effect  in  his 
hands  the  next  morning,  when  I  had  the  agreeable 
imt  after-  surprisc  of  hearing  from  his  Lordship :  '  I  find  that 
given  up.  you  wcrc  quitc  right  about  the  Porte — therefore  return 
to  Liverpool  at  once,  and  get  to  sea  as  soon  as  you  can.' 
Nor  was  any  time  lost  in  pushing  on  our  preparations, 
in  which  I  was  zealously  assisted  by  the  oflBcers  of  the 
Expedition,  as  well  as  by  Mr.  Laird,  who  had  already 
done  his  utmost  to  secure  our  success. 

I  had  now  entered  on  my  duties  as  Commander  of 
the  Euphrates  Expedition,  and  that  the  reader  may 


DUKE  OP  WELLINGTON'S  INSTRUCTIONS.  159 

understand  the  position  in  which  I  stood,  I  give  the    chap. 


instructions  under  which  I  acted  :- 


IX. 


INSTRUCTIONS. 

No.  1. — Letter  from  the  Duke  of  Wellington  to  the 
President  of  the  Board  of  Control. 

<  Foreign  Office,  NoTember  28^  1834. 

*  Sir, — I  transmit  to  you  herewith  a  Commission  which  Duke  of 
the  King  has  been  graciously  pleased  to  grant  under  His  ton  toT4e- 
Eoyal  Sign  Manual  to  Captain  Chesney,  K.A.,  consti-  bo^  of 
tuting  and  appointing  him,  with  the  rank  of  Colonel  ^°^^' 
on  a  particular  service,  to  be  a  Commander  of  the 
Expedition  about  to  be  undertaken  for  the  establish- 
ment of  a  communication  between  the  Mediterranean 

Sea  and  His  Majesty's  possessions  in  the  East  Indies  by 
means  of  a  steam-communication  of  the  Kiver  Eu- 
phrates, in  conformity  with  the  recommendation  of 
the  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons  to  that 
effect. 

*  I  am  at  the  same  time  commanded  by  the  King  to 
signify  to  you  His  Majesty's  pleasure  that  an  instruc- 
tion to  the  following  effect  be  addressed  to  Colonel 
Chesney : — 

'  As  the  object  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  appro- 
priating a  large  sum  of  money  to  be  employed  by  His 
Majesty  for  the  purposes  of  this  Expedition  was  the 
promotion  of  the  commerce  and  general  interests  of 
His  Majesty's  subjects,  it  will  be  Colonel  Chesney's  first 
duty  to  use  every  exertion  to  secure  the  success  of  the 
Expedition  in  the  shortest  possible  time,  and  always  to 
bear  in  mind  the  necessity  of  making  his  arrangements 


160  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDmON. 

CHAP,    in  such  a  manner  as  that  their  utility  may  be  permanent 
' — r-^— '  in  the  event  of  his  success. 


Duke  of         « Colonel  Chesney  will  further  be  careful  to  maintain 

Welling-  ... 

ton  to        the  most  perfect  discipline  and  subordination  amon£: 

President  i  r  "& 

of  Board  of  the  persous  who  compose  the  Expedition.  He  will 
explain  to  them  that  His  Majesty  will  view  with  the 
severest  displeasure  any  conduct  on  their  part  calcu- 
lated to  defeat  the  objects  of  the  Expedition,  whether 
arising  from  disagreement  among  themselves,  or  from 
an  indifference  to  the  habits  and  prejudices  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  country  in  which  they  are  employed. 

*  It  will  be  the  duty  of  Colonel  Chesney,  and  of  every 
other  individual,  to  conciliate  to  the  utmost  of  his 
power  the  friendship  and  goodwill,  not  only  of  the 
authorities  of  the  Grand  Seignior,  but  of  the  different 
communities  and  tribes  with  whom  he  may  have 
intercourse  ;  to  abstain  from  all  acts  calculated  to 
rouse  the  prejudices  of  the  inhabitants ;  to  take  no 
part  in  any  distiurbances  or  quarrels  which  may  exist 
among  adverse  tribes;  and  to  avoid  all  acts  of  vio- 
lence, unless  in  the  last  extremity,  for  the  preservation 
of  the  lives  of  His  Majesty's  subjects. 

'  In  short.  Colonel  Chesney  is  always  to  bear  in  mind 
that  the  character  of  the  Expedition  is  one  of  peace ; 
that  it  is  undertaken  with  the  permission  of  a  friendly 
Power,  without  whose  countenance  and  co-operation 
success  cannot  reasonably  be  expected;  and  that  having 
for  its  object  peacefid  and  beneficial  interests,  it  is  only 
to  be  conducted  by  peaceful  means. 

'  Colonel  Chesney  will  find  His  Majesty's  Ambassador 
at  the  Porte  instructed  to  afford  him  all  possible 
assistance  in  the  way  of  representation  to  the  Turkish 


LORD   ELLBNBOROUGH'S   INSTBUCTIONS.  161 

Government  on  any  occasion  where  the  intervention     chap. 

^  IX. 


of  that  Government  with  its   authority  is  required.  ' 
Colonel  Chesney  will  communicate  with  His  Majesty's  Weiiing- 

,  .      *oD  to  the 

Ambassador  on  all  such   occasions,  and  pay  to  his  Board  of 
suggestions  that  attention  which  the  position  held  by 
him  at  the  Porte  entitles  him  to  expect. 

*  Lastly,  Colonel  Chesney  wiU  report  from  time  to 
time,  for  the  information  of  His  Majesty's  Govern- 
ment, the  progress  and  prospects  of  the  Expedition. 

'  I  have,  &c* 
(Signed)     *  Wellington.' 

No.  2. 

Letter  from  Lord  Ellenborough  to  Colonel  Chesney. 

'  India  Board,  January  24, 1835. 

'  Sir, — It  does  not  appear  necessaiy  to  give  you  any  Lord 
further  instructions  for  your  general  guidance  in  the  ^^h  to 
prosecution  of  the  object   of  the  Expedition  under  ^erae^ 
your  command,  beyond  those  which  you  have  already 
received  from  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 

*  The  Minute  of  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  His 
Majesty's  Treasury,  which  has  been  cx)mmunicated  to 
you,  points  out  the  mode  in  which  you  are  to  draw  for 
the  necessary  funds. 

'  You  have  been  already  informed  that  His  Majesty's 
Government  cannot  apply  to  ParUament  for  any  grant 
in  addition  to  that  of  20,000Z.  which  has  been  so  libe- 
rally made,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  practi- 
cabihty  of  navigating  the  Euphrates. 

'  You  will  always  bear  in  mind  that  that  is  the  one 
object  of  your  Expedition,  and  that  scientific  enquiries, 

M 


i 


162  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    however  interesting,  are  not  to  be  allowed  to  detain 
EUen-  *  This  cautioH  is  become  the  more  necessary,  since  you 

borough  to  ,  •/  «/ 

Colonel  leave  England  at  a  period  subsequent  to  that  at  which 
it  was  first  calculated  by  you  that  you  would  arrive  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Orontes. 

*  Should  you  arrive  at  Basrah  by  descending  the 
Euphrates,  you  will  consider  yourself  to  be  under  the 
command  of  the  Bombay  Government  You  will 
immediately  on  your  arrival  repair  and  refit  your 
steamboats,  so  as  to  be  enabled  to  execute  any  orders 
you  may  receive. 

*  In  the  event  of  the  season  being  favourable  for  the 
voyage  to  Bombay,  you  are  at  liberty  to  proceed  at 
once  to  that  port.  This  measure  may  possibly  be  ren- 
dered advisable  by  the  consideration  due  to  the  healtli 
of  the  officers  and  men  under  your  command. 

'  Such  of  the  officers  and  men  as  the  Bombay  Govern- 
ment may  not  deem  it  necessary  to  retain  for  the  pur- 
pose of  repairing  the  steamboats,  or  of  the  further 
prosecution  of  the  plan  of  navigating  the  Euphrates, 
will  immediately  proceed  to  England. 

*  Should  the  Bombay  Government  decide  upon  prose- 
cuting the  navigation  of  the  Euphrates,  and  the  steam- 
boats be  despatched  for  Basrali  at  an  early  period,  that 
Government  is  empowered  to  afibrd,  to  such  of  the 
officers  and  men  as  may  desire  it,  the  opportunity  of 
returning  to  England  by  the  way  of  the  Euphrates  on 
the  steamboats. 

'  In  the  event  of  your  finding  it  impracticable  to  con- 
vey the  steamboats  fiom  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes  to 
tlie  Euphrates,  and  of  your  abandoning  the  project  of 


STORES  AND  MATERIALS  EMR/IRKED.  163 

descending  that  river  on  that  or  any  other  ground,    chap. 
you  are  at  liberty  to  proceed  with  the  steamboats  to  r- 


Lord 

Bombay.  Eiien- 

borongh  to 

'  On  your  arrival  at  Bombay,  you  wiU  place  yoiu^elf  Coionei 
under  the  orders  of  the  Bombay  Government. 

'  Immediately  on  your  arrival  on  the  Euphrates  with 
the  materials  of  the  steamboats,  you  will  communicate 
to  the  Bombay  Government  every  particular  you  may 
think  necessary,  in  order  to  enable  them  to  judge  of  the 
probable  time  of  yoiu*  reaching  Basrah,  and  to  take 
measures  for  sending  a  steam-vessel,  or  a  vessel  of  the 
Indian  Navy,  to  meet  you  there,  and  convey  instructions 
to  you. 

*  I  remain,  &c. 
(Signed)    '  Ellenborough.* 

Owing  to  the  novelty  of  the  imdertaking,  there  was 
some  difficulty  and  delay,  even  in  the  great  port  of 
Liverpool,  in  finding  a  vessel  suitable  for  landing  all 
our  materials  at  the  estuary  of  the   Orontes.      The 
'  George  Canning '  was,  however,  soon  put  at  our  dis- 
posal, and  as  our  engagement  with  her  owners  was  to 
terminate  as  soon  as  the  landing  shoidd  be  completed, 
we  endeavoured  to  ship  our  cargo  in  such  a  way  as  Embarka- 
would  best  facilitate  this  operation.      Had  this  pre-  materials,^ 
arrangement  been  dispensed  with,  our  departure  might 
have  been  slightly  hastened ;  but  as  it  was,  the  frame- 
work of  the  two  steamers  and   everything  else  were 
placed  on  board  by  February  1, 1835,  in  the  prescribed 
order,  with  the  exception  of  the  contents  of  the  maga- 
zine, which,  as  a  matter  of  precaution,  had  been  kept 
back  till  the  last  moment. 

M  2 


164  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

Whilst  taking  the  ammunition  on  board  a  circum- 
stance occurred,  which,  as  commemorating  the  gallant 
conduct  of  Mr.  Fitzjames,  deserves  a  comer  in  these 
pages.     I  give  it  in  the  words  of  his  brother-ofl&cer,  Mr. 
Charlewood  :  '  At  daylight  I  commenced  getting  every- 
body and  the  remainder  of  the  stock  on  board.     The 
last  thing  was  the  powder,  which  came  alongside  in  a 
Birkenhead  steamer.     I  was  in  the  magazine  superin- 
tending the  stowage,  when  the  cry  of  "  a  man  over- 
board" brought  me  on  deck.     It  proved  to  be  the 
tidewaiter  in  attendance,  who,  on  stepping  from  the 
steamer  to  the  ship,  had  slipped  overboard  between  the 
Ktagames's  two  vcsscls.     Fitzjamcs  saw  this,  and  was  after  him 
conduct,      in  an  instant.     Never  have  I  seen  anything  done  so 
nobly.     The  tide  was  running  at  the  rate  of  six  knots, 
with  a  strong  breeze  and  piercing  cold,  yet  Fitzjames 
managed  to  keep  the  man  up  (who  could  not  swim) 
till  they  were  picked  up  about  half  a  mile  astern.    I 
never  felt  so  happy  as  when  we  saw  him  once  more 
safe  on  board.   Most  richly  does  he  deserve  promotion. 
It  is  blowing  a  gale  from  the  south.' 

Fitzjames's  bravery  was  not  overlooked.  His  com- 
panions in  future  difficulties  and  dangers  hailed  his 
gallant  conduct  as  an  omen  of  success,  and  it 
awakened  also  a  warm  and  generous  local  feehng; 
for  a  deputation  from  the  Town  Council  of  Liver- 
pool came  off  to  present  him  with  a  cup  and  the  free- 
dom of  the  borough,  which  fact  was,  as  a  matter  of 
duty  on  my  part,  made  known  to  Lord  EUenborough, 
and  to  the  King  also,  through  Sir  Herbert  Taylor. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  our  Expedition  Fitzjames 
evinced  this  same  gallant,  unselfish,  and  joyous  disposi- 


SAILING  OP  THE   EXPEDITION  165 

tion,  combined  with  untiring  energy,  which  no  doubt    ^^^' 
sustained  him  to  the  last  through  the  far  greater  perils  ' — ' — ' 
and  sufferings,  ending  in  lingering  death,  which  he  en- 
coimtered  and  shared  at  a  later  period,  with  his  noble 
friend  and  commander  Sir  John  Franklin. 

The  number  of  our  seamen  being  now  complete.  Departure 
the  *  Blue  Peter '  was  hoisted  on  February  4  ;  but  Lhr^pooi. 
continued  gales  detained  us  until  the  10th,  when, 
though  the  weather  was  still  stormy,  we  put  to  sea, 
and  having  landed  Mr.  Charlewood  when  beating  past 
Waterford,  that  he  might  cause  our  stores  to  be  ready 
at  the  Cove  of  Cork,  we  arrived  there  during  the  night 
of  the  13th. 

A  supply  of  provisions  for  two  or  three  years  was  supplies  at 
promptly  furnished  from  the  Government  stores,  and  ^^.^^ 
we  were  joined  by  H.M/s  steamer  *Alban,'  which,  at 
the  particular  request  of  Lord  Ellenborough,  had  been 
given  by  the  Admiralty  to  expedite  our  voyage,  and 
she  towed  us  out  of  Cork  Harbour  on  February  16  ; 
but  our  expectation  of  assistance  from  the  *Alban' 
was  but  brief,  for  she  cast  us  off  after  a  few  hours, 
and  we  saw  nothing  of  her  next  morning,  nor  indeed 
during  the  whole  of  our  voyage  to  Malta,  where  we 
arrived  on  March  12,  having  experienced  very  stormy 
weather  in  the  Bay  of  Biscay. 

At  Malta  it  had  been  previously  arranged  that  we  were  Men.  &c. 
to  receive  boats  suited  for  the  landing  in  Syria,  and  at  Maiu 
other  requisites  from  the  dockyard,  as  well  as  ordnance 
stores.  But  as  we  had  arrived  before  our  instructions, 
I  feared  that  we  should  meet  with  delay.  A  sight  of 
the  Duke  of  Wellington's  orders,  however,  secured  the 
zealous  co-operation  of  one  of  his  distinguished  officers, 


166 


NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


Mr.  C.  A. 
Rassam 
joins  us. 


CHAP.  Sir  Frederick  Ponsonby,  the  Governor  of  Malta.*  He 
— • — '  took  me  to  the  Admiral  at  once,  and  put  everything  in 
train  in  the  different  departments,  adding  to  his  kind 
services  the  special  request  that  a  steamer  should  be  or- 
dered to  tow  the  'George  Canning'  to  the  coast  of  Syria. 
Among  our  acquisitions  at  Malta  was  the  important 
one  of  two  flat-bottomed  boats  to  facilitate  our  landing. 
We  had  also  an  unexpected  addition  to  our  party.  Mr. 
Christian  A.  Eassam,  a  native  of  Mossiil,  where  he  has 
now  been  Vice-Consul  for  many  years,  f  enthusiastically 
quitted  his  position  at  the  Malta  College  to  be  useful  to 
the  cause  wliich  he  had  much  at  heart — that  of  opening 
up  his  country  to  intercourse  with  Europe — and  joined 
the  Expedition  as  principal  interpreter.  Twelve  Maltese 
were  engaged  under  him  to  facilitate  our  communications 
with  the  Arabs  and  be  generally  useful.  In  eight  days 
everything  was  ready,  but  the  * Alban '  had  not  yet  turned 
up ;  and  the  Admiral,  Sir  Thomas  Briggs,  being  without 
an  available  steamer,  he  kindly  offered  the  *  Columbine ' 
(sloop-of-war),  as  the  best  substitute  he  had  it  in  his 
accompany  power  to  givc.  I  gladly  accepted  it,  and  she  proved  of 
invaluable  service.  On  making  this  known  to  her 
commander,  Captain  Henderson,  over  the  quarantine 
railing,  he  called  out,  *My  fore-yard  is  still  ashore, 
but   if  you  will  sail  at  once,  and  bum  a  blue  light 

*  The  late  Sir  Frederick  survived  Waterloo  almost  miraculouslj. 
Being  brought  to  the  ground  when  leading  his  regiment  by  several 
desperate  wounds,  his  body  served  as  a  parapet  for  one  of  the  enemy's 
tirailleurs,  who  loaded  and  fired  several  times  under  this  cover,  saying 
a  word  or  two  occasionally  in  a  cheerful  tone.  But  at  length  the  advance 
of  our  troops  caused  him  to  leave  his  cover,  which  he  did,  saying,  *  Je  vaia 
te  quitter,  mon  ami/  Sir  Frederick  remained  for  some  time  in  his  help- 
less position :  at  one  time  a  passing  artillery  officer  (whom  he  never  met 
afterwards)  gave  him — ^what  was  then  beyond  all  price — a  little  water, 
adding  some  cheering  words  at  the  same  time. 

t  Since  December,  1839. 


Sloop 
*  Colum- 
bine' to 


us. 


ARRTV'AL  AT   CYPKUS,  167 

occasionally  after  ten  o'clock,  the  "  Columbine  "  shall     chap. 


be  with  you  before  morning.'  We  accordingly  prepared 
to  leave  forthwith,  inspirited  by  a  most  hearty  farewell. 
The  boats  of  the  fleet  were  manned,  and  towed  the  Towed  out 

'  ofValetta 

*  George  Canning'  out  of  the  iimer  liarbour  of  ValetUi  Harboup. 
amidst  animating  cheers  from  the  ramparts. 

The   wind  was  favourable,  and  by  midnight  our 
rockets  and  blue  lights  were  answered  by  a  gun,  and  the 

*  Columbine'  was  in  company  soon  afterwards.  We 
were  taken  in  tow  almost  immediately,  and  this  impor- 
tant aid  was  given  most  willingly  tlu-oughout  the 
voyage. 

The  weather  continued  favourable,  giving  us  the  Voyage 

_  _,  /»ii  and  ex6r* 

opportumty  of  employing  our  tune  usefully,  as  we  dseofthe 
glided  along  in  the  sloop's  wake.  Besides  ball-practice, 
sword-exercise,  and  the  usual  drills,  which  had  been 
carried  on  during  our  voyage  to  Malta,  such  occupa- 
tions as  the  construction  of  canvas  and  other  boats, 
and  anything  that  seemed  likely  to  turn  to  account  in 
the  future,  kept  us  fully  employed — in  all  which  the 
'Columbine's'  carpenters  lent  their  assistance. 

Nine  days  of  energetic  occupation  brought  us  to  Cyprus. 
Cyprus,  which,  in  accordance  with  the  desire  expressed 
by  Admiral  Beaufort,  was  to  be  connected  by  triangu- 
lations  with  the  coast  of  Syria ;  while  the  report  that 
plague  existed  on  the  mainland  was  an  additional  reason 
for  communicating  with  the  island.  Accordingly,  we 
stood  into  the  Bay  of  Larnica,  where,  to  our  great  dis- 
appointment, we  learnt  from  the  quarantine  boat,  not 
only  that  the  plague  existed  in  the  town,  but  also  in  some  piag«e. 
parts  of  the  country  before  us.  As  it  was  all-important 
to  ascertain  the  true  state  of  things  with  reference  to 
this  scourge,  which  might  in  fact  have  put  an  end  to 

i 


168 


NAERATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION". 


Proceed 
in  the 
Columbine 
to  Beirut. 


Approach 
to  the 
Bay  of 
Antioch. 


our  enterprise,  I  proceeded  with  Commander  Hen- 
derson, in  the  *  Columbine,'  with  all  speed  to  Beirut, 
where  her  gig  took  me  soon  after  dark  within  speaking 
distance  of  Mr.  Chasseau,  H.B.M/s  Consul.  His  intelli- 
gence was  on  the  whole  satisfactory,  for,  although  the 
plague  existed  elsewhere,  I  learnt  that  there  was  none 
on  the  banks  of  the  Orontes,  and  I  also  ascertained  that 
Lieutenant  Lynch  had  made  the  necessary  preparations 
at  Suedia  for  the  landing  of  the  Expedition.  Returning 
with  this  encouraging  news,  the  *  Columbine'  again 
spread  her  canvas  wings ;  but  the  wind  failed,  and  our 
progress  was  exceedingly  slow.  Therefore  it  was  only 
on  April  2  that  we  sighted  the  *  George  Canning,'  then 
hull  down.  But  the  next  morning  we  were  ahead  of 
her,  with  Jebel  Akra  (or  Mount  Cassius)  before  us. 

It  was  an  interesting  moment,  when  with  a  fresh  and 
fair  breeze  we  rapidly  approached  our  destination. 
The  bald  crest  of  the  mountain  (from  which  it  derives 
its  name  of  Akra,  or  Bald)  left  no  doubt  that  the  estuary 
of  the  Orontes  would  be  found  somewhere  in  its  vicin- 
ity ;  but  the  question  was,  on  which  side  of  the  moun- 
tain ?  The  pilot  of  the  '  Columbine,'  a  Greek,  although 
specially  chosen  as  knowing  this  part  of  the  coast, 
admitted,  just  then  only^  that  he  had  never  been  in  the 
Bay  of  Antioch  ;  in  fact,  there  was  but  one  individual 
present  (myself)  who  had  ever  been  in  this  neighbour- 
hood before,  and  that  only  by  land.  We  continued 
our  course,  however,  for  some  time,  finding  no  bottom 
with  25  fathoms  of  line ;  and  as  there  was  no  appear- 
ance of  the  Eiver  Orontes  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains stretching  northward  of  Cassius,  which  we  were 
then  approaching,  I  continued  to  look  out  with  doubt 
as  well  as  anxiety,  until  all  suspense  was  ended  by  a 


SCENERY  OP  THE  BAT  OP  ANTIOCH.  169 

sight  of  the  unmistakable  landmark  of  the  extensive    chap. 
line  of  excavations  behind  the  ruins  of  Seleucia.    In  less  — ^ — ' 


than  an  hour  from  this  time  the  *  Columbine '  shortened  ^^^^  '^ 
sail,  and  being  now  in  10  fathoms  water,  and  suiBciently 
near  to  the  shore,  she  tacked  and  stood  towards  the 
south  side  of  the  bay. 

Although  in  a  well-regulated  man-of-war  it  is  a  brief 
operation  to  take  in  sail  and  pay  out  more  cable,  there 
was  still  ample  time,  while  these  orders  were  being 
executed,  to  look  round  and  examine  the  magnificent 
scenery,  which  I  had  not  previously  seen  from  the 
water. 

A  glance  at  the  shore  showed  us  the  estuary  of  the  Appear- 
Orontes  at  the  distance  of  a  short  two  miles,  the  masts  bay,  &c. 
of  some  small  vessels  appearing  above  its  banks.  Else- 
where the  bay,  which  is  seven  miles  wide,  is  encircled 
by  a  mountain  girdle  of  striking  grandeur,  varied  here 
and  there  by  spots  of  soft  and  most  attractive  scenery. 
Southward,  a  wall  of  rock  rises  from  the  water  below 
the  wooded  sides  and  culminating  bald  peak  of  Mount 
Cassius,  from  which  the  outlying  range  of  Jebel  El- 
Akrab  runs  eastward  at  an  elevation  of  5,318  feet. 
Parallel  to  this  bold  range  is  the  valley  of  the  Orontes, 
with  the  hills  of  Antioch  showing  near  its  termination. 

A  little  to  the  northward  of  the  El-Akrab  range 
appears  Bin-Kiliseh  (a  thousand  churches),  and  the 
ruins  of  the  convent  St.  Simon  Styhtes,  standing  amidst 
groves  of  arbutus  and  myrtles.  More  northward  still, 
and  forming  the  opposite  horn  of  the  Bay  of  Antioch, 
is  Jebel  Musa,  a  wooded  and  picturesque  moxmtain,  with 
the  extensive  cavern  and  excavations  of  Seleucia  on  its 
lower  slope,  which  terminates  this  remarkable  pano- 
rama. 


i 


NA8EATIVE  OP  THE  EDPHEATES  EXPEDITION. 


I  lost  no  time  in  landing  near  Suedia,  but  it  was 
quite  dark  before  we  arrived ;  and  finding  a  good  deal  of 
surf  on  the  beach,  I  was  forced  to  give  up  my  intention 
of  communicating  with  lieutenant  Lynch,  and  returned 
to  pass  the  night  in  the  '  George  Canning,'  imder  the 
impression  that  all  was  now  smooth.  We  were  wholly 
iinpreparetl  for  the  vexatious  and  almost  insurmountable 
impediments  wliich  we  subsequently  encountered,  but 
which  were  eventually  overcome  during  the  succeeding 
eleven  months  by  the  officers  and  men  of  the  Euphrates 
Expedition. 


We  were  all  on  deck  by  suarise  tlie  next  morning    chap. 
(April  4),  gazing  with  delight  and  admiration  at  the  ^ — . — - 
magnificent  acene  before  us,  of  which  the  description  at  Antwch. 
the  close  of  the  preceding  chapter  can  give  but  a  faint 
idea.    For  grandeur,  varied  beauty,  and  extent,  it  could 
scarcely  be  surpassed.     The  ancient  tunnel  and  rock- 


^tk. 


excavations  of  Seleucia  were  visible  from  our  deck,  as 
well  as  a  small  part  of  this  once  famous  and  extensive 
port ;  but  the  httle  town  of  Suedia,  although  scarcely 
a  mile  from  the  ship,  is  completely  hidden  in  the 
dense  mulberry  plantations  which  surround  it. 


172  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.         We  did  not,  however,  allow  ourselves  much  time  for 


'  the  contemplation  of  the  scenery  around  us.  Lieutenant 
Cleaveland  was  sent  on  shore,  and  returned  with  a 
favourable  account  of  the  landing-place,  accompanied 
by  Yusuf  Saba,  Sheikh  of  Suedia,  who  brought  us  the 
unwelcome  intelligence  that  no  firman  had  been  received 
requiring  the  local  authorities  to  further  the  Expedi- 
tion, and  that  Lieutenant  Lynch  had  in  consequence 
discharged  the  camels  which  he  had  previously  hired  for 
the  transport  of  our  materials.  This  report  caused  us 
some  uneasiness,  but  did  not  prevent  us  from  making  a 
Boats  sent  beginning  by  sending  two  boats,  under  command  of 

up  thd 

Orontes.  Lieutenant  Cleaveland,  to  explore  the  Orontes.  He 
proceeded  for  fifteen  miles  up  the  river,  which  he  found 
to  be  very  rapid  near  its  mouth,  with  a  current  of 
about  four  miles  an  hour,  and  an  average  breadth 
of  90  yards.  At  the  termination  of  the  VaUey  of 
Suedia,  the  Orontes  flows  between  steep  and  lofty 
mountains,  tumbling  over  a  rocky  bottom,  shallow  in 
some  places,  and  very  unnavigable.  The  scenery  is 
wild  and  very  fine.  The  sides  of  the  hills  are  covered 
by  dehciously  fragrant  aromatic  plants,  while  the  Valley 
of  Suedia  is  rich  in  mulberry-groves  grown  for  the 
sake  of  the  silk,  which  is  made  there  in  lai^e  quantities. 

Landing.         On  landing  we    carefully   examined    the    country 

i)iac6 

selected,     around  the  estuary  of  the  Orontes,  with  reference  to  a 
healthy  station  for  disembarkation ;  and  whilst  occupied 
the  next  day  in  putting  up  a  pair  of  shears  at  the  land- 
ing-place we  had  selected,  and  in  arranging  landmarks, 
Mehemet     &c.,  a  letter  from  Lieutenant  Lynch  made  known  to 
draws  his    me  the  startling  fact  tliat  Mehemet  Ah  had  not  only 
?o^n^°°  recently  withdrawn  the  orders  which  had  been  given. 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  173 

to  afford  every  facility  for  the  landing  of  our  steamers,    chap. 
but  had  actually  forbidden  the  local  authorities  to  give  ' — « — ' 
us  any  assistance  in  transporting  them  to  their  desti- 
nation. 

Such  adverse  circimistances  seemed,  at  first  sight,  to  Opposition 

of  the 

put  an  end  to  all  hopes  of  success.  I  had  indeed  fore-  Pacha  of 
seen  that  the  Pacha  of  Egypt  could  not  desire  to  see  ^^^^^^ 
any  obstacles  placed  in  the  way  of  his  ambitious  pro- 
jects by  the  opening  of  a  highroad  to  India  through 
his  recently  acquired  territory,  and  I  was  therefore  pre- 
pared, in  some  measure,  for  indirect  opposition,  but  I 
had  never  supposed  that  he  would  venture  to  go  so 
far  as  to  oppose  the  British  Government.  But  so  it 
seemed  to  be,  and  an  anxious  consideration  of  the 
present  dilemma  suggested  three  courses,  any  one  of 
which  was  open  for  selection. 

The  first  of  these  alternatives — as  the  landing  of  our  Choice  of 

difficulties. 

materials  had  not  been  commenced — ^was  to  return  to 
Malta,  and  wait  there  until  Government  could  take 
some  decided  step.  The  second  was  to  make  prepara- 
tions to  sail  round  Africa,  and  begin  operations  at  Basrah. 
The  third  was  to  land  the  whole  of  the  materials  forth- 
with, and  having  shown,  by  the  departure  of  the  two 
vessels,  that  the  enterprise  would  not  be  given  up,  to 
endeavour,  by  every  means  still  available,  to  transport 
our  steamers  across  the  country  so  as  to  float  them  on 
the  Eiver  Euphrates. 

Believing  that  the  last  course  would  have  been  most 
in  accordance  with  the  instructions  of  Government,  if 
instructions  could  have  been  asked,  and  being  also  con- 
vinced that  high  ground  would  be  taken  at  home  without 
delay,  I  determined  to  adopt  it  as  the  line  most  befitting 


174  NABRATIVE   OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    a  great  nation.     Expecting,  at  all  events,  to  be  able  to 
•  •  •  • 

ir   '  r'  anticipate  open  opposition,  it  was  at  once   arranged 

ationto      that  OUT  stoFCS  should  be  landed  with  all  possible 

land  the  *■ 

stores.  despatch,  and  that  the  two  vessels  should  then  quit  the 
coast  of  Syria.  Oiu*  work  was,  therefore,  commenced 
next  morning  with  hearty  goodwill,  in  which  Com- 
mander Henderson  and  the  men  and  officers  of  the 
'  Columbine '  joined. 
Some  of  At   dayhght  on  April  6,  two  officers  and  twenty- 

bine's'  offi-  five  men  were  landed  from  this  ship,  and  whilst  they 

cers  and  .  ^  x  n    .  i 

men  wcrc  prcparmg  our  encampment^  our  two  flat-boats, 

with  the  '  Columbine's  '  launch,  pinnace,  cutter,  jolly- 
boat,  and  skiff,  continued  landing  stores  and  materials 
throughout  the  day.  To  facilitate  tliis  operation,  a 
hawser  was  carried  from  the  shore  over  the  bai', 
along  which  the  boats  passed  into  a  small  creek, 
which  we  had  cut  in  order  to  land  the  heavy  weights 
under  a  pair  of  shears.  Favourable  weather  enabled 
us  to  do  a  good  deal,  both  towards  the  landing  and 
preparing  the  encampment,  which  advanced  simulta- 
neously with  the  aid  of  the  '  Columbine's '  officers  and 
men. 

Store  and        Their  first  object  was  to  pitch  a  roomy  store-tent  by 

other  tents  Pxi  i.  ii  xit  •!/» 

pitched,  means  oi  the  spare  booms  and  lower  studding-sails  oi 
the  brig.  A  mess-tent,  four  marquees,  and  ten  bell- 
tents  for  the  men,  were  then  set  up— also  the  observatory 
tent,  and  a  smaller  one  adjoining  it  for  the  telescopes, 
theodoKtes,  and  otlier  instruments  ;  tlie  whole  of  which, 
as  well  as  the  machinery  about  to  be  landed,  were  to 
A  parapet  havc  the  protection  of  an  earthen  parapet.  In  the 
camp.  course  of  three  or  four  days  this  work  was  constructed, 
having  a  fieldpiece  at  one  angle,  and  other  means  of 


EXAMINATION  OF  THE  ORONTES.  175 

defence.     Our  camp,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of    chap. 
AmeUa  Dep6t,  was  soon  rendered  defensible,  and  made  — ^ — - 


quite  an  imposing  appearance. 

On  the  following  morning  our  labours  were  resumed  Process  of 
with  increased  faciUties.     The  short  hne  carried  over  the  heavy 
the  bar  had  been  replaced  by  another  of  1,200  yards  ^^ 
in  length,  going  the  whole  way  to  the  'George  Canning.* 
This  lessened  the  labour  very  much,  for  the  heavily- 
laden  boats  were  hauled  along  it  to  the  land,  and 
rowed    back    again  to   the  vessel   when  discharged. 
During  this  day's  work,  which  was  productive  of  great 
results,  Yusuf  Saba  came  to  me  in  a  state  of  absolute 
consternation  to  ask  for  our  firman,  as,  faihng  such 
authority,  he  had  been  ordered  to  interdict  our  land- 
ing.    Fortunately,  the  want  of  an  interpreter  at  this 
moment    prevented    anything   exphcit    from  passing 
between  us,  and  we  continued  our  exertions  with,  if 
possible,  greater  energy  than  before. 

The  examination  of  the  Orontes,  with  reference  to  Examina- 
its  faciUties  for  transport,  was  carried  on  at  the  same  Orontes. 
time,  but  Lieutenant  Cleaveland's  report  to  me,  on  the 
extent  to  which  the  river  might  be  made  available,  was 
not  very  promising. 

On  the  evening  of  the  8th,  Lieutenant  Lynch  arrived 
from  Aleppo,  and  from  his  intelligence,  as  well  as  from 
letters  just  received  from  the  Consul-General  of  Egypt 
(Ck)lonel  Campbell),  and  from  the  Consul  at  Damascus 
(Mr.  Farren),  it  was  too  clearly  though  indirectly 
implied  that  secret  orders  had  been  issued  to  stop  the 
Expedition,  instigated,  as  we  felt  but  too  sure,  by 
Northern  influence.  Of  these  adverse  intentions  we 
soon  had  unpleasant  proofs.     I  fortunately  heard,  the 


17  G  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  ElOPEDITION. 

CHAP,     next  mornincT,  that  the  Mutselhm   of   Antioch  had 


X. 


•5> 


Visit  from 
the  Govor- 


arrived  at  Suedia  for  the  express  purpose  of  stopping 
our  proceedings,  and  I  requested  Captain  Henderson 

Soch^  ^^'  ^^^  ^^y  ^  receive  him  with  a  guard  of  marines,  but  to 
give  him  a  salute  of  eight  guns,  and  invite  him  to  lunch. 
I  anticipated  what  he  had  to  say  by  making  a  strong 
remonstrance  about  the  want  of  assistance  rendered  to 
us,  adding  that  Captain  Estcourt  was  then  on  liis  way 
to  Damascus,*  in  order  to  demand  the  requisite  order 
for  assistance  from  Sheriff  Pacha  ;  adding  that,  in  the 
meantime,  the  landing  would  be  continued  under  the 
protection  of  the  '  Columbine's'  guns. 

Having  with  manifest  anxiety,  and  great  reluctance, 

agreed  to  await  an  answer  to  the  letter  now  on  its  way 

to  Damascus,  the  MutseUim  took  his  departure,  after 

having  been  shown  every  part  of  a  British  man-of-war. 

The  day  after  this  visit  (April  10)  was  marked  by 

Heavy        the  succcssful  landing  of  one  of  the  heaviest  pieces  of 

landed.       boilcr  in  one  of  our  flat-boats,  with  a  pontoon  lashed 

on  each  side  of  it  to  give  it  additional  buoyancy  as 

well  as  stabihty,  and  also  by  the  recovery  of  some  of 

the  indispensable  parts  of  the  steamer's  engines.  A  cask 

containing  the  valves  of  both  engines  had  broken  its 

Loss  of       slings  on  the  previous  day,  and  rolled  to  the  bottom  of 

and  its       the  rivcr,  which  was  at  this  season  exceedingly  turbid. 

recovoiy.     r^Y^^  difficulty  of  finding  and  recovering  the  cask  was 

very  great,  but  I  fortunately  recollected  that  my  friend 

Mr.  Coulter  had  contrived  an  ingenious  double  cramp, 

with  the  idea  of  raising  stones  from  the  bed  of  the 

Euphrates,  which  I  applied  to  the  recovery  of  our  lost 

cask.  This  instrument  resembled  a  pair  of  can-hooks.  A 

*  See  Appendix  III.  for  Captain  Estconrt's  JournaL 


I 


II 


/ 


SURVEY  OF  THE  COAST.  177 


diver  went  down,   found  tlie  cask,  and  adjusted  the     chap. 


cramp,  which  grasped  it  firmly ;  the  sHngs  happily  ^ 
bore  the  weight,  and  it  was  safely  drawn  up,  to  our 
great  reUef,  for  the  loss  of  the  valves  would  have 
disabled  both  engines,  and  this  under  existing  circum- 
stances would  have  been  an  irreparable  misfortune 
to  us.  This  difficult  operation  was  effected  by  Mr. 
Charlewood. 

At  this  period  Lieutenant  Murphy,  accompanied  by  Snirey  of 
Messrs.  Ainsworth,  Thompson,  and  A.  Staunton,  left  ~«^" 
the  camp  to  survey  the  coast  between  the  Bay  of 
Antioch  and  Lattaquia.  They  made  a  commencement 
by  ascending  Mount  Cassius,  through  its  wooded  slopes 
to  its  bald  peak,  which  they  made  their  point  of  de- 
parture for  the  survey.  Of  course  our  proceedings 
did  not  fail  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  Egyptian 
authorities,  and  several  of  the  Pacha's  officers  paid  us  a 
visit,  in  order  to  ascertain  what  we  were  doing.  One 
of  the  number,  a  good-natured  intelligent  Pole,  bearing 
the  appellation  of  Hajji,  on  seeing  our  boilers  and  bed- 
plates, &C.,  was  heard  to  exclaim,  'Quand  vous  avez  tout 

cela  h  Berejik 'and  here  he  broke  off  from  want  of 

terms  in  which  to  express  the  utter  impossibility  of  the 
accomplishment  of  our  project.  Nor  was  he  very 
wide  of  the  mark ;  for  although  the  task  was  not,  as  he 
supposed,  impossible^  it  proved  to  be  almost  Herculean. 

Eough  weather  coming  on,  it  had  become  very  diffi-  Bad 
cult,  and  at  times  it  was  dangerous,  to  pass  the  bar  of    ^ 
the  Orontes,  and  the  Expedition  narrowly  escaped  a  seri- 
ous calamity  just  as  the  landing  was  all  but  completed. 

On   April   13,  when  Captain  Henderson,  with  his  Capt,  Hen- 
usual   daring,  was   passing   through  the  surf  on  the  boatnpwt. 

N 


178  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

ciMP.    bar,  his  gig  was  upset.     Mr.  Fitzjames  happened  to 

' — * — '  be  on  the  bar  at  the  moment,  but  with  most  inefficient 

means  of   assistance   at  hand;    of    these,    however, 

he    made   the  best  possible   use,  and,  as  it  proved, 

successfully.     I  give  the  incident  in  his  own  words  : — 

Mr.  Fitz-        '  At  about  4  P.M.,  as  I  was  landing  through  the  surf 

James's  ,  o  -o 

account  of  in  the  launch,  I  observed  astern  the  Captain  of  the 
"  Columbine  "  in  his  gig,  with  four  men  pulling  with 
difficulty  through  the  surf,  and  at  last  a  sea  struck  and 
turned  her  over.  We  instantly  hauled  astern,  but  the 
current  had  swept  them  all  to  the  southward,  and  out 
of  OTir  reach.  I  saw  two  of  the  men  land  on  the  bar 
and  walk  to  a  low  point  near  it,  while  the  other  two 
held  on  to  the  boat,  but  Captain  Henderson  came  close 
to  us,  and  seemed  nearly  overpowered.  I  threw  him 
two  oars,  and  he  fortunately  grasped  one  of  them. 
We  could  not  go  to  his  assistance,  as  we  had  no  oars, 
and  had  we  let  go  the  rope,*  we  should  have  been 
swamped  also.  It  would  have  been  madness  to  have 
jumi)cd  after  him.  We  suffisred  the  most  intense 
anxiety,  hearing  his  call  for  help,  and  not  being  able 
to  do  anything,  till  a  boat  from  the  "  George  Canning  " 
picked  him  up  completely  exhausted.  The  "  George 
Canning's"  crew  picked  up  the  two  seamen,  going 
with  great  difficulty  through  the  surf.  The  "  Colum- 
bine's" boat  was  washed  ashore,  and  we  all  felt 
thankful  that  no  Ufe  had  been  lost  Of  course  (the 
intrepid  Fitzjames  adds)  no  more  work  was  done 
that  evening.' 

The  support  of    the  oar  would  have  proved  in- 

•  The  laden  boats  did  not  row,  but  were  hauled  along  the  line  from 
the  *  George  Canning '  to  the  shore. 


INTERVIEW   WITH   IBRAHIM   PACHA.  179 

sufficient  if  nothing  more  had  l)een  done,  but  Mr.  chap. 

Charlewood,  seeing  from  the  deck  of  the  *  George  — ^ — - 
Canning'  what  was  taking  place,  caused  a  boat  to  be 
lowered   and  manned  (so  speedily  that  he  scarcely 
knew  how  it  was  done),  and  hastened  to  the  spot.    He, 

however,  was  barely  in  time  to  rescue  Captain  Hen-  Rescue  of 

derson  and  his  crew  from  a  watery  grave.     But  the  Hendw- 


BOXL 


'  Columbine's'  gig  was  righted,  and  Captain  Henderson 
returned  to  his  ship.  His  first  thoughts,  after  his  own 
fortunate  preservation,  being  for  others,  the  signal  of 
'  Bar  impracticable '  was  immediately  sent  up. 

Three  days  after  this  event.  Captain  Henderson  took  visit  to 
me  to  Lattaquia  in  the  '  Columbine,'  in  the  hope  of 
bringing  about  some  change  in  our  anomalous  position. 
But  Ibrahim  Pacha  had  already  left,  and  we  therefore 
returned  to  the  camp  (April  20),  where  we  had  the 
satisfaction  of  finding  that  the  magazine  had  been 
cleared  out,  and  the  rest  of  the  *  George  Canning's ' 
cargo,  vdth  the  exception  of  the  coals,  had  been  landed. 
Still  all  our  efforts  to  procure  animals  had  l>een  ftiiit- 
less,  for  the  people  were  now  quite  aware  that  they 
must  not  render  us  any  kind  of  assistance. 

In  the  hope  of  overcoming  this  difficulty  by  obtaining 
the  support  of  the  local  authorities,  Captain  Henderson 
took  me  to  Tripoli,  and  on  April  24  I  had  an  inter- 
view with  Ibrahim  Pacha,  the  officers  of  the '  Columbine '  nemon- 
being  present    I  did  not  fail  to  urge  (what  I  presumed  wSTibm- 
would  have  much  weight)  the  heavy  outlay  now  so  ^°^^^^*- 
uselessly  incurred,  and  for  which  the  British  Govern- 
ment   would    consider    him    responsible.      To    this, 
however,  and  much  more  to  the  same  effect,  he  made 
the   general    reply,   that  he   was    only  his    father's 

N    2 


180  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,  lieutenant,  and  consequently  without  any  power  to 
^— > — '  act.  Hoping  that  a  little  time  might  produce  some 
change  for  the  better,  I  told  the  Pacha  that  I  should 
return  to  Suedia,  and  that  if  a  more  favourable  reply 
did  not  follow  me  thither,  I  must  make  a  statement  to 
the  British  Government,  in  order  that  the  necessary 
steps  to  enforce  assistance  might  be  taken ;  adding  that 
the  number  of  engineers  and  other  workmen  must 
cause  a  heavy  demand  for  the  unnecessary  delay  to 
which  we  had  been  subjected ;  and  I  might  have  added, 
had  it  not  been  somewhat  injudicious  to  do  so,  that  I 
was  aware  he  had  iuduced  his  father  to  take  the  same 
hostile  course  as  himself. 

To  make  the  best  of  circumstances  was  now  our  only 
course.  My  previous  acquaintance  with  the  geography 
of  the  country  lying  between  the  Mediterranean  and 
the  Euphrates  prepared  me  for  its  varied  nature,  and 
for  difficult  ground  in  certain  places,  especially  when 
the  transport  of  heavy  weights  was  in  question.  The 
whole  distance  to  be  accomplished  was  about  140  miles, 
Dc«crip-  which  might  be  divided  into  two  sections :  the  first  com- 
lioM  of  prising  the  district  lying  between  the  sea  and  the  eastern 
shores  of  the  Lake  of  Antioch  ;  the  second  that  stretch- 
ing from  the  Lake  of  Antioch,  or  White  Lake,  to  our  des- 
tination on  the  Euphrates,  near  the  important  town  of 
Bir.  This  latter  tract  of  country,  with  the  exception 
of  some  hilly  ground  near  the  town  of  Azaz,  is  nearly 
a  dead  level,  and  possesses  several  well-peopled  villages, 
with — what  to  us  was  very  important — a  large  number 
of  draught-bullocks. 

But   if  the  difficulties  were   comparatively  trifling 
on   this   second  half  of  our  line,  they  were  propor- 


roQte. 


ROUTES  OF  TUE  EUPHRATES.  181 

tionately  formidable  on  the  former  one.  Our  carefiil  chap. 
examination  of  the  country  had  shown  us,  that  there  — ^ — ' 
were  three  lines  more  or  less  available  for  reaching 
the  Lake  of  Antioch  from  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes. 
One  was  the  circuitous  route  through  Aleppo,  using 
camels  for  carrying  light  weights;  the  second  was 
by  the  Orontes  as  far  as  Guzel  Burj,  and  across  the 
Lake  of  Antioch  to  Murad  Pacha ;  the  third  could  only 
be  accomplished  by  opening  a  road  across  some  steep 
and  difficult  hiUs,  as  far  as  the  greater  and  lesser  rivers 
Kara  Chai,  and  thence  on  to  Guzel  Burj,  whence,  pass- 
ing through  a  labyrinth  of  rocks,  we  should  reach  the 
general  landing-place  at  Murad  Pacha  on  the  farther  side 
of  the  lake,  where  we  should  come  upon  the  open  country. 

We  had  now  to  ascertain,  practically,  how  far  either 
or  all  these  lines  might  be  made  available  for  the  trans- 
port to  Bir,  whither  Lieutenant  Lynch  had  already  gone,  Lieut, 
and  where  he  was  engaged  in  making  the  necessary  pre-  p^^)ai»- 
parations  for  our  arrival  at  this  our  intended  station  on  uwHw. 
the  Upper  Euphrates,  where  affairs  looked  more  pro- 
mising than  could  be  the  case  within  the  limits  of  the 
territories  still  occupied  by  Mehemet  Ali.  For,  as  our 
vessels  were  to  be  set  up  and  completed  within  the 
Sultan's  dominions,  the  Vizir  of  Asia  had  the  power 
not  only  to  ^ve  us  the  site  which  had  been  selected, 
but  other  facilities  also,  so  long  as  our  operations  were 
carried  on  within  the  boundaries  of  his  Government. 
These,  however,  only  extended  to  a  short  distance 
westward  of  the  river.  A  few  words  will  make  our 
position  clearer  to  the  reader. 

Bir,  or  Birejik,  is  built  on  the  side  of  a  chalky  range  Descrip- 
of  hills  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  water,  and  follow 


182  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHiiP.     the  left  bank  of  the  Euphrates  as  far  as  about  eight 
' — - — '  miles  below  the  town.   This  place  was  in  many  respects 


unsuited  for  our  station,  having,  among  other  drawbacks, 
the  serious  one  of  a  ferry.  A  site  was  therefore  care- 
fully selected  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  about  2  ^ 
miles  below  Bir,  where  Lieutenant  Lynch  ascertained 
that  sUps  could  be  constructed  at  35  or  40  feet  above 
the  water-line,  and  where  there  would  be  sufficient 
space  for  buildings,  stores,  and  workshops,  which  might 
be  enclosed  and  protected  by  a  parapet-waD. 

This  was  Lieutenant Lynch's  work  at  this  period,  whilst 
Messrs.  Murphy,  Ainsworth,  and  Thompson  were,  as 
has  been  already  mentioned,  surveying  the  Bay  of 
Scanderoon,  and  our  other  officers  and  men  were  open- 
ing waggon-roads  across  the  country,  and  preparing 
rafts  to  convey  our  heavy  materials  to  Antioch. 
Capt.  On  May  3  Captain  Estcourt  retiurned  to  the  camp 

returns      from  Damascus,  where  he  received  the  unsatisfactory 
miMion'to  auswcr  fpom   Sheriff  Bei,  the  governor,  that  he  was 
^^^'    without  any  instructions  to  assist  the  Expedition.   Cap- 
tain Estcourt  had  also,  on  his  way  back  to  Ameha 
Depot,  visited  Ibrahim  Pacha  at  Tripoli,  who  gave  him 
much  the  same  reply  as  I  had  received  from  him,  but 
entered  more  fully  into  the  objects  of  the  Expedition, 
its  contemplated  proceedings,  and  the  capabiUties  of 
the  Eiver  Euphrates  for  navigation. 
The  Early  on  the  morning  of  the  same  day  the  *  Columbine ' 

bine'         had  left  for  Malta,  receiving  and  returning  our  salute  of 
Malta.       seven  guns  ;  and  the  reverberation  of  her  32-pounders 
in  the  Bay  of  Antioch  told  us  plainly  enough  that  we 
were  losing  the  valuable  and  unwearied  assistance  of  her 
commander,  officers,  and  men.     The  '  George  Canning ' 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  THE  TRANSPORT.  183 

had  been  previously  discharged,  and  we  knew  that  we    chap. 
should  soon  see  whether  the  fact  of  the  Expedition  ^ — ^ — 
being  without  the  means  of  quitting  Syria  would,  or 
would  not,  be  sufficient  to  convince  Mehemet  Ali  that 
any  further  opposition  on  his  part  must  be  useless. 

Chiefly  to  give  him  an  additional  proof  that  our  ob- 
jects would  be  carried  out,  but  partly  also  for  the 
sake  of  avoiding  the  evils  of  idleness,  we  commenced 
setting  up  the  *  Tigris '  steamer  on  May  6.  This  gave  Setting  up 
ample  occupation  to  all  in  camp;  while  our  other  i^^!^"' 
works,  including  our  station  at  Bir,  which  I  had  named 
Port  William,  continued  to  progress  satisfactorily.  But 
the  main  object,  that  in  fact  on  which  all  else  depended — 
the  transport  of  our  stores  and  materials — ^was  quite  at 
a  standstill.  Ibrahim  Pacha  not  only  continued  un- 
moved by  all  our  applications  for  assistance,  but  his 
orders  to  withhold  all  aid  were  strictly  obeyed. 

Finding  that  camels  coining  to  us  were  constantly  Cameis 

prevented 

stopped  by  the  orders  of  the  Pacha,  and  that  our  deten-  from  com- 
tion  at  Suedia  must  be  complete  if  we  depended  on 
Egyptian  support,  we  turned  our  thoughts  to  the  Sul- 
tan's territory,  and  the  means  of  assistance  which  it 
could  afford.  The  small,  shaggy,  double-humped 
camel  of  the  Turcomans  was  already  doing  us  good 
service,  as  far  as  the  conveyance  of  our  lighter  materials 
was  concerned ;  but  the  steamer's  bent  plates — to  say 
nothing  of  the  machinery — were  quite  beyond  the 
powers  of  this  animal.  There  was  no  prospect  of  ac- 
complishing our  task  unless  other  means  could  be 
found. 

The  best,  and  indeed  the  only,  remaining  resource  Appeal  lo 

.  ^"♦*  Vizir 

seemed  to  be  an  appeal  to  the  Vizir  of  Asia,  Eeschid  of  Asia. 


184 


NAREATIVE   OF   THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
X. 


Arrival  of 
Ibrahim 
Pacha  at 
Antioch. 


He  passes 
onwards, 
and  is  not 
saluted. 


The 

•Tigris* 
set  up  and 
floated. 


Pacha;  and  Captain  Estcourt  undertook  tliis  second 
mission,  leaving  the  camp  on  May  7,  accompanied 
by  Dr.  Staimton.* 

While  he  was  on  his  way  to  Diyar-Bekr  there  were 
fresh  references  to  Ibrahim  Pacha,  who  reached  the  Bay 
of  Antioch  in  the  *  Nile '  steamer  on  the  20th ;  and  as 
he  must  of  necessity  land  at  or  near  our  camp,  I  felt,  as 
it  were,  on  the  horns  of  a  dilemma.  On  the  one  hand, 
his  vexatious  annoyances  did  not  entitle  him  to  a  cor- 
dial reception  from  the  Expedition,  whilst  one  of  an 
opposite  kind  might  only  increase  our  difficulties. 
Wishing  to  avoid  Scylla  as  well  as  Charybdis,  I  had 
the  means  of  saluting  him  quietly  prepared,  in  case  the 
Pacha  should  land  at  our  station.  Our  state  of  sus- 
pense was  not  of  long  duration.  We  saw  the  barge 
leave  the '  Nile '  with  Ibrahim  sitting  in  the  stern,  but 
when  almost  at  the  entrance  of  the  river,  she  changed 
her  course,  and  proceeded  to  land  the  Pacha  on  the 
open  beach  about  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  our  camp. 
We  afterwards  ascertained  that  this  sudden  change  was 
caused  by  his  not  seeing  the  guns  manned,  and  by  his 
belief,  in  consequence,  that  we  did  not  intend  to  pay 
him  the  usual  mark  of  respect  of  firing  a  salute. 

Having  a  strong  body  of  skilful  workmen  and 
ample  means  at  command,  the  setting-up  of  the  *  Tigris ' 
steamer  was  soon  accomphshed,  and  she  was  launched 
on  May  22,  in  the  presence  of  numerous  spectators. 
On  the  30th  her  engines  were  not  only  set  up,  but  she 
was  ready  to  ascend  the  Orontes  to  Antioch  with  a 
cargo  of  bent  plates  belonging  to  the  larger  steamer, 
and  thus  make  a  good  beginning  with  regard  to  the 


*  See  Appendix  IV.  for  Captain  Estcourt's  Heport  of  his  luififuon  to 
Keschid  Pacha. 


THB  STEAMER  'TIGRIS.' 


185 


transport.     She  failed,  however,  to  stem  the  current    chap. 
at  the  second  obstacle  she  met  with  in  her  ascent,  and  ^rrz — 

'  Fails  to 


WnifimT 


aacend  the 
river. 


THB   'TIOBia'   STBAXBJL 

we  had  the  disappointment  of  seeing  our  little  steamer 
returning  with  her  cargo  to  the  vicinity  of  the  camp. 
After  some  additional  attempts,  it  became  but  too  clear 
that  there  was  no  hope  of  conveying  the  heavy  ma- 
terials by  water  to  Antioch,  and  the  *  Tigris '  had  to  be 
separated  into  eight  sections  in  order  to  facihtate  her 
carriage  across  the  country. 

During  this  interval  a  line  of  levels  was  being  carried  Building 
from  Scanderoon  to  Bir ;  building  sUps  were  prepared  at  JiSdf "' 
the  latter  place,  with  a  defensible  work,  sufficient  to  give 
protection  to  our  armament  and  materials.  All  these 
operations  gave  healthy  occupation  to  oiu:  men,  and 
kept  up  their  interest  in  the  Expedition.  It  soon,  how- 
ever, became  apparent  to  all  that  the  carriage  of  our 
heavy  materials  across  the  country  must  be  attended 
with  great  and  unexpected  difficulties.  Even  if  our 
steamer  had  had  sufficient  power  to  ascend  against  the 
current  of  the  Orontes,  the  rocks  in  some  places  were 
not  sufficiently  covered,  at  this  low  season,  to  permit  her 
passage.*  The  river,  evidently,  could  only  be  made 
useful  to  a  limited  extent  by  means  of  extraordinary 

*  River-steaming  wati  in  ita  infancy  when  the  ^  Tigria/  the  fifth  vessel 
of  her  class,  was  built.  One  of  the  steamers  now  plying  on  the  Thames 
would  easily  ascend  the  Orontes. 


186  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    exertions,  and  was  totally  impracticable  for  the  boilers. 
' — • — '  Their  conveyance  by  land,  therefore,  became  impera- 
tive.   But  before  describing  our  progress  in  this  labo- 
rious undertaking,  I  must  revert  for  a  moment  to 
S^urt     C^P^^^^  Estcourt's  mission  to  Eeschid  Pacha.     Not  find- 

R^d      ^^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^*  I^iy^-B^^»  ^^  followed  him 
Pacha.       to  his  camp,  where  he  had  two  interviews  with  him. 

The  moment  was  not  altogether  favourable  for  our 

^® ,        apphcation,   since  the  Vizir  had  scarcely  established 

assiBtance    his  authority  in  the  district  of  Orfeih,  which  had  but 

nominal.       ,  , 

just  been  given  up  by  the  Egyptians,  so  that  there  was 
much  real  difficulty  in  his  taking  any  decided  steps  in 
our  favour.  He  held  out  hopes  of  assistance,  however, 
and  gave  a  '  boyardhi'  (or  order)  to  enable  us  to  obtain 
assistance  from  the  local  authorities  in  the  Sultan's 
territory. 

Provided  with  this  document.  Captain  Estcourt  re- 
turned to  Suedia  by  way  of  Orfah,  Bir,  and  Aleppo, 
on  June   26.      Here  a  most  difficult  and  laborious 
task   awaited  him  in  that  portion   of  the  transport 
Construe-    scrvicc  which  was  allotted  to  his  superintendence.     We 

tion  of  ,  T  1  •  1     /• 

waggons,  had  two  scHous  Undertakings  before  us — the  construc- 
tion of  carriages  strong  enough  to  remove  our  ponder- 
ous boilers,  &c.,  and  the  opening  of  a  practicable  road 
for  a  distance  of  140  miles.  The  former  was  com- 
menced with  hearty  goodwill,  chiefly  by  our  own 
artisans,  whilst  the  latter  fell  to  both  officers  and  men, 
who  were  stimulated  to  their  utmost  exertions  by  the 
example  of  their  commander  (Captain  Estcourt)  and  his 
zealous  assistants,  amongst  whom  Lieutenant  Cleavehmd, 
Messrs.  Murphy,  Charlewood,  and  Fitzjames  specially 
distinguished  themselves,  and  worked  under  the  convic- 
tion that,  come  what  might,  they  mudt  not  fail. 


&c. 


TRANSFOBT  OF  THE  KEELSONS.  187 

Gradually  our  work  crept  on.     Under  the  super-    chap. 

2L, 


iutendcnce  of  Mr.  Eassam,  the  Turcomans  conveyed  ^ 
a  large  portion  of  our  lighter  materials  and  stores 
on  their  camels.  Blanchard's  pontoons  and  other 
portable  things  were  carried  by  hand,  by  the  people 
of  Suedia,  to  Antioch.  The  conveyance  of  the  keel- 
sons was  one  of  our  greatest  difficulties,  for,  owing  Thokeei- 
to  theu:  length,  they  could  scarcely  pass  the  sharp  up  the 
turnings  of  the  narrow  roads,  and  it  became  all-impor- 
tant to  float  them  at  least  up  the  Orontes. 

This  task  devolved  upon  one  who  was  at  all  times 
ready  to  do  his  utmost  to  overcome  difficulties,  Mr. 
Chai'lewood.  He  formed  these  ponderoiis  beams  into 
a  raft,  finnly  put  together,  took  four  seamen  in  one 
of  the  boats,  and  30  natives  to  assist  in  dragging  it 
over  the  most  difficult  places,  and  thus  he  commenced 
the  ascent  of  the  river.  Owing  to  the  strength  of  the 
current  this  was  no  ordinary  task,  even  when  there 
were  no  impediments  to  overcome;  but  in  case  of 
meeting  either  rapids,  or  one  of  the  fishery  weirs,  it 
became  necessary  to  separate  the  keelsons,  and  cany 
them  one  by  one  over  the  obstacle,  whatever  it  might 
be.  Four  days  of  unwearying  exertion  took  the  keel- 
sons up  the  river  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Antioch, 
from  whence  Mr.  Fitzjames  had  them  conveyed  to 
Guzel  Burj. 

The  people  of  the  country  were,  naturally,  quite  The  roaa 
unaccustomed  to  such  serious  labour,  and  this  obliged  menccd. 
us  to  employ  at  least  three  times  the  number  that 
might  have  been  necessary  for  similar  exertions  at 
home. 

Towards  the  beginning  of  July  some  progress  had 
been   made   with   the   road,  and   the  preparation  of 


188 


NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
X. 

Occupa- 
tions in 
the  camp. 


The  heavy 
weights. 


Transport 
of  the 
•  Tigris's ' 
sections. 


The  large 
boat  on 
wheels. 


sledges  and  other  vehicles  was  far  advanced.  Our 
camp  had  been  the  scene  of  extraordinary  energy  and 
activity.  Timber — chiefly  oak  and  elm — had  been 
arriving  almost  daily  from  the  forests  on  the  slopes  of 
the  Beilan  Mountains ;  iron,  to  supply  our  wants,  was 
brought  from  Marash.  Our  force  of  carpenters  and 
smiths  had  been  increased  by  the  constant  exertions  of 
Mr.  Kilbie,  our  agent  at  Aleppo.  For  the  weightiest 
portions  of  our  materials,  such  as  boilers,  bed-plates, 

&c.,  very  strong  sledges 
were  prepared  and  put  on 
wheels. 

The  next  task  in  point 
of  difiiculty  was  the  re- 
moval of  the  ^Tigris'  in 
eight  sections.  These 
were  moxmted  on  wheels, 
and  arrangements  for  the 
paddle-beams  were  made 
in  the  same  way.  The 
flat-bottomed  boats  were 
also  put  on  wheels  and 
dragged  by  land,  while 
we  endeavoured  to  assist 
them  by  spreading  a  sail. 
The  result  of  our  united  laboxu*  was  that  our  own 
artisans,  with  local  assistance,  were  enabled  to  con- 
struct 27  available  carriages,  in  addition  to  our  4 
artillery  waggons. 

One  of  our  contrivances  was  a  low  truck-carriage, 
on  which  one  of  our  boats,  which  had  formerly  done 
good  service,  was  placed.      But  her  progress  was  so 


MIDSHIP  SECTION   OF   '  EX7PHRATBS  ' 
STEAMEfi. 


SECTION   OF    '  TIOBIS  '   STEAMBB. 


CITT  OP  ANTlOCn. 


slow  over  the  plain,  even  with  sails  set  and  a  favour     chap. 
able  wind,  that  we  were  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  — • — - 


animals  to  drag  her  as  far  as  the  Lake  of  Antioch, 
when  she  fell  to  the  charge  of  our  '  Admiral,'  as  Mr. 
Fitzjames  was  now  constituted,  after  having  completed 
his  ahare  of  the  transport  service  between  Guzel  Burj 
and  Antioch. 

This  city,  the  modem  Antakiyah,  even  with  its  mid-  Citj  of 

,    _     .  ,  ,  „  Antioch. 

berry-groves  and  fruit-gardens,  covers  but  a  small  part 

of  the  ground  occupied  by  the  ancient  city,  though  it 

still  contains  14  mosques,  a  Mohammedan  college,  a 

synagogue,  and  several  baths.    The  houses,  which  are 

of  an  inferior  description,  have  tiled  pent-roofs,  and 

exterior  staircases,   corridors,  and  balconies,  with  a 

court  below  shaded  by  orange  and  pomegranate  trees. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  ancient  gates  are  those  of  it"  anciMit 

St.  Paul  and  Bab-el-Jisr,*  or  Gate  of  the  Bridge,  which 

leads  to  the  bridge  over  the  Orontes.    The  population 

'  '  Expedition  to  Euphrates  and  Tigris,'  vol.  i.  p.  425. 


190  NAREATIVB  OF  THE  EDPHEATE8  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  in  1836  was  under  6,000.  The  walls  of  the  ancient 
miiT^  city,  which  are  still  comparatively  perfect,  have  a  cir- 
ADtioch.     cumference  of  about  seven  miles,  and  are  nearly  in  the 


form  of  a  parallelogram,  which  to  the  SE.  is  bounded 
by  a  range  of  high  rocky  hills,  and  has  on  its  nortli- 
western  side  the  Valley  of  the  Orontes.  Walls  and 
square  towers  of  surprising  solidity  *  once  encircled  this 
residence  of  the  S3Tian  monarch,  the  '  seat  of  pleasure, 
and  the  third  city  of  the  habitable  earth.'  f 

At  the  highest  extremity  of  this  lofty  range  of  hills  is 
The  Aero-  the  Acropolis,  from  the  eastern  side  of  which,  by  a  bold 
gjhsoft  B  gQ-Qj^  qC  genius,  the  wall  has  been  carried  down  the 
almost  vertical  face  of  the  cliff,  and  after  crossing  the 
valley  this  chain  of  walls  has  been  made  to  ascend  the 
opposite  steep  hill  in  a  zigzag  and  extraordinary 
manner ;  after  which,  having  again  been  carried  across 
another  hill,  it  descends  in  the  same  daring  way  to 


WALLS  OP  ANTIOCH.  191 

the  western  walls  at  St.  Paul's  Gate.     At  the  steepest    chap. 
parts  of  the  hiUs  these  walls  necessarily  become  a  sue-  ^ — ^ — ' 
cession  of  gigantic  steps  between  the  towers,  which 
at  some  places  are  close  to  one  another,  the  walls 
being  raised  outside  as  a  protection  against  the  com- 
manding ground  beyond.     Near  the  western  extremity 
of  the  city  are  the  barracks  and  also  the  newly-built 
serai  of  Ibrahim  Pacha.     The  groves  of  Daphne,  the  ^^«*  ®^ 
translucent  fountain  of  Zoila,  and  the  remarkable  pass  &«• 
of  the  Eed  CKff,  as  well  as  other  objects  of  interest,  are 
in  the  vicinity  of  this  once  royal  but  now  fallen  city. 

In  proportion  as  I  became  more  fully  alive  to  the 
consideration  of  the  great  difficulties  which  interfered 
with  the  prosecution  of  our  undertaking  through  the 
country  lying  beyond  the  capital  of  Syria,  I  saw  that  I 
had  made  the  serious  mistake — ^though,  perhaps,  the 
only  one — of  husbanding  too  closely  the  public  fimds 
entrusted  to  me.  Had  I  in  the  first  instance  purchased 
animals  and  all  that  we  required,  instead  of  trusting  to 
the  anxiety  of  the  people  to  earn  money  by  hire,  &c., 
in  which  course  I  was  mainly  actuated  by  a  desire  to 
economise  our  supply,  we  should  have  been  saved 
many  of  those  annoyances  and  vexatious  delays  which 
will  be  in  part  the  subject  of  the  following  pages. 


192  NARRATIVE   OP   THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

TRANSPORT  OP  THE  MATERIALS  TO  PORT  WILLIAM,  AND  PREPARATIONS  TO 
SET  UP  AND  FLOAT  THE  STEAMERS  AT  THAT  PLACE,  WITH  THE  DIFFI- 
CULTIES AND  OPPOSITION  OFFERED  BY  THE  MUTSELLIM. 

CHAP.  The  details  of  our  proceedings  after  leaving  the  mouth 
of  the  Orontes  until  the  completion  and  floating  of  our 
steamers  on  the  Euphrates,  in  March  1836,  must 
necessarily  involve  some  repetition ;  and  the  narra- 
tion of  difficulties,  which  were  so  full  of  interest  and 
excitement  to  us  at  the  time,  may  now,  it  is  to  be 
feared,  sometimes  become  tedious  to  the  reader.  Let 
it,  however,  be  borne  in  mind,  that  in  thus  recording 
the  trying  difficulties  met  with  in  our  transport  service, 
the  Commander  is  only  endeavouring  to  do  justice  to 
the  untiring  exertions  of  his  officers  and  men,  whose 
persevering  efforts  were  made  at  times  almost  against 
hope. 
Lieut.  By  the  beginning  of  July  Lieutenant  Murphy  had, 

surveyf "  with  the  assistaucc  of  Lieutenant  Cockbum  and  Mr. 
Thompson,  completed  the  survey  of  the  coast-line  of 
the  Bays  of  Antioch  and  Scanderoon,  &c. ;  and  these 
officers  were  now  commencing  the  laborious  task  of 
carrying  a  line  of  levels  from  the  seacoast  to  the 
Euphrates,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  practicability  of 
cutting  a  canal.  The  remainder  of  our  force  had  a 
more  serious  undertaking  before  them,  which  was 
allotted  to  them  in  four  subdivisions. 


r^  i  ^^ 


ALLOTMENT  OF  WORK.  193 

The  first  division  passed  from  the  depot  at  Suedia,     chap. 


XI. 


over  the   most   difficult  spot  which  we  encountered  > 

,  ,  Arrange- 

during  the  whole  Expedition,  and  which   was  lon<nr  mentof 

,  ^  ^.  ,  .  °    the  routes 

known   among  us  by  its  well-earned  appellation  of  from 
the  *  Hill  of  Difficulty.'     This  part  of  the  line,  and  as 
far  onwards  as  Guzel  Burj,  fell  to  Lieutenant  Cleave- 
land  and  Mr.  Charlewood,  who  had  also  the  assistance 
of  Doctor  and  Mr.  A.  Staunton. 

The  second  division  comprised  the  navigation  of  the 
Lake  of  Antioch,  between  Guzel  Burj  and  Murad  Pacha, 
Mid  fell  to  Mr.  Fitzjames,  who  bore  the  title  of  *our 
Admiral,'  and  no  officer,  even  of  that  rank,  ever  did 
more  to  overcome  difficulties. 

The  third  division  took  the  hne  onwards  from  the 
Lake  of  Antioch  to  Port  William,  on  the  Euphrates ; 
and  this  portion  was  under  the  energetic  direction  of 
Captain  Estcourt,  who  had  the  assistance  of  Messrs. 
Eden,  Hector,  and  Rassam,  besides  that  of  some  gun- 
ners of  the  Eoyal  Artillery,  under  Sergeant-major 
Quin. 

Thus  the  Agha  Denghiz,  or  White  Lake,  became  Agha 
the  centre  of  our  future  operations.  We  had  one  lakef  ^^ 
string  of  waggons  and  sledges  to  the  westward  in  full 
work,  under  Lieutenant  Cleaveland,  and  another  (under 
Captain  Estcourt)  working  the  longer  line  between  the 
lake  and  Port  William.  And  whilst  the  most  ponderous 
weights  were  thus  conveyed  by  a  combined  operation 
from  one  place  to  another  along  the  principal  road 
from  the  coast  to  the  lake,  and  thence  on  to  the  river, 
camels  and  mules,  forming  our  fourth  division,  carried 
the  lighter  materials  to  their  destination  by  a  separate 
route,  eastward  of  the  lake.     The  camels  were  chiefly 

0 


194  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    brought  to  us  by  the  Turcomans,  who  after  a  time 


continued   to   serve   us  steadily,  notwithstanding  the 
opposition  of  Ibrahim  Pacha. 

It  was  not  with  ordinary  zeal  that  the  men  and 
officers  grappled  with  the  difficulties  we  encountered 
in  making  our  way  to  the  Lake  of  Antioch,  some 
of  which  were  almost  insurmountable.  It  was,  as  I 
have  already  mentioned,  at  the  end  of  our  first  stage 
Reach  the  ^^^  ^^c  camp  at  Sucdia  that  we  came  to  one  of  the 
i^cufty.*  ^^st  serious  of  them  all— the  '  Hill  of  Difficulty/  We 
halted  on  the  afternoon  of  our  first  day's  progress  at 
the  base  of  this  ascent.  We  had  four  artillery  waggons, 
twenty-seven  waggons  and  sledges,  which  we  had  con- 
structed on  the  banks  of  the  Orontes,  and  numerous 
*arabas'  or  carts  of  the  country,  with  which  to  trans- 
port the  steamers'  boilers  —  the  heaviest  of  which 
weighed  seven  tons — and  all  our  ponderous  materials. 
The  task  of  reaching  the  crest  of  the  hill  commenced 
next  morning,  and  required  the  assistance  of  all  our 
men,  and  of  every  other  available  means. 

A  zigzag  path  having  been  made,  we  confidently 
40  pairs  of  exDCCtcd  that,  with  40  pairs  of  oxen  and  100  men  to 

oxen  and  i  '  r 

100  men.  e^cb  slcdgc,  the  boilers  might  reach  the  crest  of  the 
hill  one  at  a  time,  the  whole  of  our  available  strength 
of  animals  and  men  being  applied  to  each  separately. 
But  we  soon  found  that  the  sharp  angles  and  abrupt- 
ness of  the  ascent  made  this  all  but  impracticable : 
with  less  enterprise  and  perseverance  on  the  part  of 
the  officers  and  men  it  must  have  been  quite  so.  They 
were,  however,  fertile  in  expedients.  Anchors  were 
fixed  firmly  in  the  ground  a  little  distance  in  advance, 
towards  which  the  boiler  was  drawn  by  puDeys  and 


THE  'HILL  OF  DIFFICULTY.'  196 

drag-ropes  inch  by  inch ;  at  certain  places  jack-screws  '^^.^■ 

were  used  to  raise  the  sledge ;  and  by  these  processes,  — ■ — ' 
tedious  though  they  were,  the  summit  was  attained 


step  by  step.  Of  course  these  operations  had  to  be 
repeated  with  each  of  our  heavy  weights ;  and  when 
the  difficulties  of  the  ascent  were  at  length  happily 
overcome,  the  descent  was  attended  not  only  with  nearly 
as  much  difficulty,  but  with  considerable  danger  also. 
By  attaching  well-manned  drag-ropes  behind  each  car- 
riage, we  managed,  however,  to  lower  them  gradually 
down  the  steep  ascent,  till  each  one  safely  reached  the 
level  country  below.  One  boiler  was  aU  but  over- 
•  turned  dining  the  ascent,  and  was  in  danger  of  going 
over  the  precipice.  The  ready  pencil  of  Mr.  A.  ^ 
Staunton  has  shown  it  in  its  critical  position,  with 
one  native  workman  holding  it  up  manfully  with  all  his 
might,  under  the  belief  that  his  strength  would  be 
suffident  to  avert  the  calamity.  (See  next  page.) 
The  difficulties  in  conveying  tlie   boilers  between 


196 


KAERATIVE  OF  THE  EDPHEATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP.     Suedia  and  Antiocli  were  peculiarly  harassing,  from 

- — ■ — '  the  constant  breaking-down  of  our  carriages  and  other 

means  of  conveyance,  which  not  only  caused  serious 


delay,  but  taxed  the  resources  and  ingenuity  of  the 
officers  in  charge  to  a  painful  extent.  One  of  tlie 
heaviest  boilers  had  been  taken  over  some  of  the  worst 


giound  at  an  average  rate  of  about  half  a  mile  per  diem, 
and  was  being  dragged  onward  over  a  rough  stony 


AN  UmEXPECTED   RESOURCE.  197 

plain,  by  some  60  hired  bullocks  and  as  many  men,    chap. 
when  the  truck  came  in  violent  contact  with  a  large  - — r^— ' 


piece  of  rock,  which  caused  the  guiding-beam  attached 
to  the  fore-axle  to  snap  in  two.  This  was  a  very  serious 
accident,  for  if  no  timber  could  be  had  to  replace  the 
broken  beam  at  once,  the  men  and  their  bullocks 
would  be  sure  to  leave,  and  could  not  have  been 
reassembled  for  many  days  to  come. 

Almost  in  despair,  Mr.  Charlewood,  the  officer  in 
charge,  proceeded  to  a  lonely  house  close  by,  with  the 
forlorn  hope  of  learning  where  a  beam  might  be 
obtained.  He  found  the  family  quietly  occupied  with 
their  morning  meal,  and  quite  indifferent  to  our  diffi- 
culties. But  when  all  prospect  of  assistance  seemed  to 
be  at  an  end,  he  perceived  that  the  roof  of  their 
dwelling  was  supported  by  a  large  beam,  running  from  a  beam 

1  n  -I  1  rrn    •  n  tA^eH  from 

one  end  wall  to  the  other.  This  was  a  most  fortunate  a  house  to 
discovery,  and  no  time  was  lost  in  making  known  to  bo?fep. 
the  owner,  to  his  utter  amazement,  that  we  must  pur- 
chase his  house.  A  bargain  was  struck  at  once,  to  the 
satisfaction  of  both  parties ;  and  before  the  occupants 
had  time  to  quit  their  dwelling,  the  sailors  were  at 
work  stripping  the  roof  and  extracting  tlie  beam. 
Thus,  within  less  than  an  hour  of  the  breakdown,  the 
boiler  was  supplied  with  a  new  guiding-beam,  and  was 
moving  on  towards  Guzel  Burj,  where  water-carriage 
was  substituted  for  that  by  land ;  and  it  fell  to  Mr.  Fitz- 
james  to  convey  the  heavy  weights  across  tlie  lake  to 
Murad  Pacha,  where  the  task  of  their  conveyance  on- 
ward to  Port  WiUiam  devolved  upon  Captain  Estcourt. 
These  arrangements,  diligently  carried  out,  nearly 
cleared  out  our  depot  at  the  Orontes  in  a  short  time ; 


lyo  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     and  I  then  organised  a  soaall  caravan  to  convey  the 
■ — ■ —   guns,  small  arms,  and  a  large  supply  of  powder  for 


mining  purposes,  to  our  station  on  the  Euphrates,  and 
quitted  our  camp  myself  on  July  10,  and  on  the 
18th  readied  Port  William.  This  place  had  now,  in  its 
turn,  become  the  centre  of  our  operations,  having  on  one 
side  the  line  of  transport,  and  on  the  other  the  prepara- 
tions for  the  navigation  of  the  river.  Unremitting  exer- 
tions had  by  this  time  accomplished  a  good  deal  of  the 
former  task,  and  by  the  middle  of  August  our  men  and 
animals  were  no  longer  toOing  between  Suedia  and 
the  Lake  of  Antioch,  on  which  our  persevering  '  Ad- 
miral '  had  also  all  but  completed  his  task. 

The  brunt  of  the  transport  labour  was  now  trans- 
ferred to  the  line  between  Guzel  Burj  and  Poi-t 
William,  on  which  Captain  Estcourt  and  Mr.  Eaasam 
were  working  assiduously  and  cheerfiilly,  enjoying  tho- 
roughly the  absurd  incidents  which  often  arose  to 
enhven  even  their  most  serious  diffiadtJes.     On  one 


ex- 


SUPPOET   OP  THE   BRITISH   GOVERNMENT.  199 

occasion,  at  the  village  of  Afirin,  when  our  long  team  of  chap. 
oxen  were  struggling  to  drag  the  large  boiler  through 
its  difficulties,  one  poor  beast  fairly  laid  down  under  the 
blows  of  its  Turcoman  driver.  *  You  lazy  effeminate 
fellow/  shouted  Achmet  Bei,  the  commander  of  the 
Turcomans,  *make  your  beasts  draw!' — 'I  effeminate ! ' 
retorted  the  indignant  Turcoman, '  you  shall  soon  see  Turoonum 
what  /  can  do ! '  and  seizing  the  poor  ox  by  the  ears,  ^^^^ 
he  pulled  away  so  energetically  to  get  him  on,  that  he 
pulled  them  outj  and  taking  them  to  Captain  Estcourt, 
as  a  proof  of  his  zeal,  exclaimed,  *  Who  will  dare  to 
call  me  effeminate  now  ? '  These  trophies  were  long 
preserved  by  Captain  Estcourt.  Nor  was  this  a  sohtary 
instance  of  such  an  occurrence ;  another  pair  of  ears 
were  pulled  out  afterwards  at  the  Sdjiir  and  brought 
to  us  by  an  equally  energetic  Turcoman ! 

An  important  step  in  advance  had  been  made  by  Setting 
setting  up  part  of  the  large  steamer,  although  under  steamer, 
very  unusual  circumstances,  for  her  keel  and  a  large 
portion  of  her  materials  still  remained  at  different 
places  between  the  lake  and  their  ultimate  destination. 
But  although  much  remained  to  be  done,  things  were 
beginning  to  look  more  favourable,  and  towards  the  end 
of  August  a  letter  arrived  from  Sir  John  Hobhouse, 
President  of  the  Board  of  Control,  giving  us  the  all-im- 
portant intelligence  that  His  Majesty's  Government  had 
made  known  to  the  Pacha  of  Egypt,  that  having  under- 
taken the  Euphrates  Expedition,  not  only  with  his  con- 
currence, but  with  the  express  sanction  of  the  Sultan 
also,  it  must  now  be  faithfully  carried  out. 

The  results  of  this  strong  remonstrance  were  im- 
mediate orders  from  Mehemet  Ah  to  afford  us  every 


200 


NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 


CHAP,  assistance.  Presuming  that  he  would  not  venture  to 
J^^'^  J '  give  fresh  umbrage  to  the  British  Government,  our  ob- 
remon-       structious   Seemed  to  be  removed;   for  with  respect 

strancefl  ... 

by  British   to  the  TuFcomaus,  and  the  natives  within  the  Sultan's 

Cknrem- 

ment.  territory,  all  had  been  smooth  for  some  Uttle  time 
past.  But  our  prospects  had  scarcely  become  brighter 
when  other  trials  awaited  our  little  force. 

Casualties      Constant  exertions  and  exposure  to  an  extreme  climate 

and  sick-  .  , 

ness.  had  greatly  augmented  our  sick  list.  Two  valuable 
men.  Corporal  Geddes,  of  the  Eoyal  Engineers,  and 
James  Brown,  an  able  seaman,  died.  At  this  time 
I  was  myself  quite  unconscious  of  anything  that  was 
going  on,  and  yet  a  confused  connection  between  our 
work  and  the  wanderings  of  brain-fever  possessed  me. 
Out  of  consideration  for  my  state,  the  riveting  of  the 
steamers'  plates  had  been  stopped;  but  it  was  soon 
discovered  that  the  stillness  greatly  aggravated  my 
fever,  while  the  sound  of  eight  hammers  hard  at  work 
gave  me  immediate  reUef. 

The  first  news  that  greeted  my  returning  conscious- 
ness and  convalescence,  was  that  of  the  addition  by 

Morefunds  Government  of  5,000/.  to  the  funds  of  the  Expedition. 
This  was  most  cheering,  since  it  suflBiced  not  only  to 
repay  the  advances  made  on  my  responsibility  by 
Messrs.  Cox,  but  those  of  my  friends  Hampden  Gled- 
stanes  and  George  Glas  Sandeman  also,  and  yet  left 
3,000/.  in  hand  for  the  expenses  of  the  undertakmg.  I 
had  also  the  gratification  of  finding  that  the  transport 
had  been  carried  on  with  unabated  energy  during  my 
illness,  as  well  as  the  putting  together  of  the  steamer. 

Depots  Dep6ts  of  coal  were  now  established  at  Deir  and 

of  coal  ^ 

established  Anna,   on    the    Euphrates,    with    reference    to    our 


UECT.   LTXCH  S  MI^IOX  TO  THE  ASAB&  201 

approaching  desc^it  and  survey  of  the  river ;  while^    ^  ?f^* 
at  the  same  time,  we  took  every  pains  to  make  the  — ' — ' 
Arab  Sheikhs  muderstand  that  our  visit  was   one  of 
peace  and  mutual  advantage.     For  the  promotion  of 
these  objects,  and  to  ensure  a  cordial  understandings  I 
had  proposed  that  Mr.  Wherry,   Consid  at  Aleppo, 
should  undertake  an  explanatory  mission  to  tl\e  Arabs, 
This,  however,  eventually  devolved  upon  Lieutenant  Li«it 
Lynch,*  Mr.  Wherry  finding  it  difficult  to  leave  l)is  i>ost  onTmiT 
for  the  purpose.   Lynch  set  out  on  tl\e  5th  of  September,  aJS)*, 
accompanied  by  his  brother,  by  the  younger  SU\m\ton, 
and  by  Mr.  EUiot,  who  had  recently  joined  us.f    The 
party  proceeded  in  the  first  instance  to  Orfah,  tlieu  to 
Haran,  and,  making  their  way  tlirough  that  district, 
passed  along  the  river  towards  Deir.     During  this 
mission,  which  necessarily  occupied  some   time,  the 
exertions  of  the  officers  and  men  of  the  Expedition 
continued  with  unabated  ardour. 

The  hue  of  levels  carried  on  by  Lieutenants  Murphy  Uw  of 
and  Cockbum  and  Mr.  Thompson  was  approaching  acroM 
completion  ;  J  and   though  the  Pacha's  assistance  was    ^"** 
often  more  nominal  than  real,  much  was  done  not- 
withstanding, under  Captain  Estcourt's  direction,   in 
moving  the  heavy  weights  on  to  Port  William.    Thus, 
the  bed-plates  and   cylinders  were  safely  transported 
thither,   though    under  very  adverse    circumstances, 
especially  diuing  the  heavy  rains,  which  had  already 
commenced.      While  these  various   operations  were 

•  See  Appendix  V.  for  Lieut.  Lynches  report. 

1 1  had  made  Mr.  Elliot's  acquaintance  at  Bagdad  just  after  his  oicape 
from  the  melancholy  fate  of  Meesrs.  Taylor,  Bo  water,  and  their  companiotm. 

I  This  was,  it  is  helieved,  the  longest  line  of  levels  which  had  boon 
carried  out  up  to  that  time. 


202  NAERATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     being   carried  on  simultaneously  at  different  points 

— r-^—  of  our  line,  our  leading  object  of  putting  together 

the  '  Euphrates '  steamer  was  proceeding  rapidly.    As 

Progress     the  different  parts  were  brought  up  they  were  fitted 

uptw^-  i^to  th^ir  places  at  once.    The  keel  and  stem  were  the 

^^^r.     1^^  ^  arrive ;  but  as  soon  as  they  were  fitted  in,  the 

slips  were  prepared,  and  on  September  26  the  launch 

took  place. 

M.  Vincent  Germain,  who  had  only  been  deterred 
from  joining  the  Expedition  by  the  Pacha's  hostihty, 
was  present  as  a  visitor  on  this  occasion,  and  was  both 
able  and  willing  to  give  useful  advice,  although  Lieu- 
tenant Cleaveland's  presence  was,  in  fact,  all  that  was 
requisite  to  ensure  success. 
Prepare-  The  nature  of  the  ground  was  such  that  it  had  been 
the  L^ch.  imperative  to  put  up  our  vessel  parallel  to  the  river, 
and,  as  a  necessary  consequence,  to  launch  her  side- 
ways. The  banks  at  Port  William  are  some  twenty- 
five  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water ;  the  steamers, 
therefore,  had  to  be  put  together  at  that  elevation ; 
and  it  was  necessary  to  prepare  three  slips — one  near 
the  bow,  a  second  at  the  stern,  and  a  third  amidships — 
along  which  she  was  to  be  allowed  to  slide  gently 
downwards,  easing  her  off  by  means  of  one  chain 
near  the  bow,  and  another  towards  the  stem.  These 
being  ready,  and  the  signal  given,  she  slipped  down- 
wards, and,  at  first,  as  gently  as  could  be  desired; 
but  when  she  had  gone  about  a  quarter  of  the  distance 
towards  the  water,  one  of  the  chains  stretched,  and 
was  evidently  about  to  give  way  altogether.  This  was 
a  very  critical  moment ;  but  before  there  was  time  for 
the  chain  to  part  entirely,  and  thus  permit  the  vessel 


LAUNCH  OF  THE   STEAMER  '  EUPHBATES/  203 

to  make  a  fatal  swing  round  and  be  thrown  off  the     chap. 
slips,  Lieutenant  Cleaveland,  with  admirable  presence  of  — - — 
mind,  called  to  the  men  to  '  Let  go  the  other  chain  ; ' 


3B 

m   .r   »         at       jm        m        ^ 

F       ^ 

^^m 

mS^^^      -^ 

-■^aiiV'^l-^WL)-r4ffn  A^i^L'iHjj.ijm^ 

"  '^-iJ^!t«Jij^fc  —J-  r-'^iimn'^— iT^i — i- 

^^*f4Pff»"" 

—          

~^^- i'*^'  •       *>.^  ■  —Tp^TT*^^ 

-r— .-r ; : f     .•      .  '^~^^W^^^              P 

-               ■           -.1"                 l^^^J^^i^ 

z— -   -       .z^ :-::■:- S^l 

■ 

~      Z    '  -  '^*—      ,"            ~ 

'  EUPHRATB8 '   BKIKO  LAX7KCHED. 

and  being  now  unchecked,  our  vessel  continued  to 
descend  with  increased  and,  to  us,  alarming  velocity,  Launch 
till  she  actually  leapt  into  the  river.  Happily,  she  fell  phrate*.' 
into  the  Euphrates  in  an  upright  position,  and  the 
impetus,  as  may  easily  be  imagined,  caused  the  water 
to  fly  upwards  on  each  side.  But  all  was  perfectly 
safe,  and  the  astonished  acclamations  of  several  thou- 
sands of  spectators  accompanied  the  (to  them)  wonderful 
sight  of  iron  floating  on  the  water.*  The  good  people 
of  Bir  had,  at  the  same  time,  the  gratification  of  seeing 
the  ensigns  displayed  of  two  nations  which  are  so 
deeply  interested  in  making  the  present  link  not  only 
permanent  but  mutually  beneficial.  On  this  occasion 
the  '  Euphrates '  had  the  Union  Jack  at  the  bowsprit, 
the  Blue  Peter  at  her  bow,  the  Aiab  flag  on  the  fore- 
mast, the  Turkish  Crescent  on  the  main,  and  the  British 
ensign  at  the  stem.     The  launch  thus  happily  effected, 

*  The  Arabs  at  Bagdad  afterwards  translated  a  distich;  which  runs 
thus :  — 

*  When  iron  floats  on  the  water, 
There  is  nouglit  for  the  Arabs  but  dispersion  or  slaughter/ 


204  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    rejoicings,  with  moderate  conviviality  on  the  part  of 
* — r-^ — '  ourselves  and  men,  followed  this  successful  operation. 


Next  morning  the  'Euphrates'  was  hauled  to  a 
suitable  place  alongside  the  bank,  in  order  to  place  the 
heavy  weights  on  board ;  but,  unfortunately  as  regarded 
her  completion,  two  pieces  of  her  boilers  were  still  on 
the  road,  and  each  succeeding  day's  delay  increased 
our  diflBculties,  although  as  yet  the  rains  had  only  par- 
tially commenced.  The  bed-plates  and  keelsons  were 
put  on  board  and  bolted  down ;  some  deck-beams 
were  fitted  in  their  places,  and  a  beginning  was  made 
with  the  watertight  compartments. 

On  October  3  Seyd  Ali  Agha  arrived  fi:om  Bagdad, 
Letters       with  letters  fi:om   our  Eesident  in  that  city  to  the 
I^^L     various  Arab  Sheikhs  along  the  river,  urging  them 
to  give  us  every  possible  assistance. 

In  the  course  of  this  month,  especially  during  its 
earUer  part,  much  was  done.  The  engines  were  nearly 
set  up — the  magazine  and  cabin  were  far  advanced ; 
but  a  great  deal  depended  upon  the  goodwill  of  the 
local  authorities,  and  it  would  be  diflScult  to  describe 
Difficulties  the  petty  annoyances  to  which  Captain  Estcourt,  and 
riMlccd.  the  officers  generally,  were  subjected  by  the  withdrawal 
of  the  authority  to  obtain  horses,  camels,  mules,  &c. 
The  difficulty  of  getting  supplies  was  also  increased ;  for 
avaricious  officials  sought,  by  all  kinds  of  vexatious 
extortion,  to  get  more  money  than  was  fair.  Still  all 
our  httle  force  worked  on  with  unabated  patience, 
cheerfulness,  and  a  hearty  unity,  which  was  one  of  our 
greatest  elements  of  success.  The  opposition  of  the 
Pacha  of  Egypt  was  at  the  bottom  of  all  these  difficul- 
ties ;  although  this  seemed  to  admit  of  some  excuse. 


206 


NARRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
XI. 


Illness  of 

Captain 

Estcoort. 


Further- 
ance of 
the  tians- 
port. 


and  the  doctor  by  his  knowledge  of  geology  and  other 
scientific  subjects.  This  was  therefore,  in  all  respects, 
a  very  acceptable  addition  to  our  party,  and  the  ladies' 
cabin  being  almost  completed,  we  were  able  to  give 
the  necessary  accommodation.* 

At  this  juncture  we  lost  the  invaluable  services  of 
Captain  Estcourt,  whose  health  gave  way  under  his 
unwearied  exertions;  and  his  illness  necessitated  a 
redistribution  of  work,  to  fill  up  the  blank  as  fiax  as  it 
was  possible.  The  line  from  the  SAjur  river  to  Port 
WilUam  was  now  allotted  to  Lieutenant  Qeaveland  and 
Seyd  Ali,  who  had  recently  joined  us  from  Bagdad ; 
that  from  the  Sdjur  to  Azaz  was  given  to  Messrs.  Hector 
and  Bassam;  while  to  Mr.  Fitzjames  fell  the  charge 
of  the  portion  on  from  Azaz  to  Gindareez.  Mr. 
Charlewood,  assisted  by  Messrs.  Elliot  and  Sader, 
undertook  the  line  from  Gindareez  to  Murad  Pacha,  the 
general  superintendence  having  devolved  upon  Lieute- 
nant Lynch,  on  his  return  from  his  mission  to  Deir. 
And,  as  it  was  all-important  to  convey  the  heavy  weights 
before  the  rains  set  in,  additional  horses  were 
purchased  to  the  full  extent  that  our  remaining  funds 
permitted,  not  doubting  that  the  people  would  readily 
bring  their  bullocks  to  complete  our  task.  Ac- 
cordingly 50  men  and  twice  as  many  animals  being 
engaged,  one  piece  of  the  boiler  was,  with  the  assistance 
of  men  and  officers,  placed  on  board  the  steamer  on 
October  28.  And  on  the  5th  of  the  succeeding 
month,  72  oxen  and  36  men  brought  in  another  piece, 

*  Dr.  Heifer  was  subsequenUj  employed  with  reference  to  the  culti- 
vation of  tea  in  Assam,  where,  most  unhappily,  he  was  murdered  by  the 
natives  during  his  explorations.  Our  most  agreeable  travelling  com- 
panion, Madame  Heifer,  is  the  present  Baroness  Nostitsch. 


COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  RAINS. 


207 


although  with  increasing  difficulty,  owing  to  the  rains,     chap. 
These  appeared  to  have  now  regularly  set  in,  while  ^ — ^ — 
fresh   and  imexpected   opposition    from  the  Turkish 
authorities  augmented  our  impediments.  The  Mutsellim  Opposition 
of  Bir,  whose  opposition  had  hitherto  been  underhand,  Mutseiiim 
became  openly  hostile.     Either  from  his  wish  to  pay 
his  court  to  the  rising  star  in  Egypt,  or  from   some 
other    motive,   he   ordered    his    people    to  withhold 
that   assistance  in  men  and  animals  which  had  now 
become  more  than  ever  necessary  to  us. 


'euphbates'  steamer. 

This  considerably  crippled  our  powers.  Still  we 
managed  to  continue  the  transport  more  or  less  with 
our  own  men  and  horses  ;  while  the  advanced  state  of 
the '  Euphrates  *  steamer  permitted  us  to  commence  the 
'  Tigris,'  and  her  three  sections  were  set  up,  that  they 
miglit  be  again  riveted  together.  The  whole  of  her 
materials  being  comparatively  light,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  one  very  ponderous  piece  of  boiler,  were 
conveyed  by  waggons  and  camels.  In  the  hope  of 
escaping  the  increased  difficulties  caused  by  a  flooded 
country,  every  nerve  had  been  strained  to  get  all 
brought  into  the  station  before  the  rains  came  on; 
every  man  and  animal  toUed  to  the  utmost  extent  of 
his  powers — but  it  was  all  in  vain  I 

The  rains  finally  set  in  before  our  task  was  accom- 


208  NABRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    plished,  and  towards  the  middle  of  November,  Lieute- 

XI. 

^- — r-^  nant  Lynch  proposed  a  cessation  of  the  transport  until 
the  spring.  Some  little  respite  would,  no  doubt,  have 
been  desirable  for  the  sake  of  all  concerned,  but,  for 
many  reasons,  I  felt  that  intermission  of  any  kind  must 
be  quite  a  last  resource.  The  engineers  and  boiler- 
makers  had  already  given  notice  that  their  time  was 
nearly  up ;  and  even  if  they  could  have  been  induced 
to  remain,  the  consequent  additional  expenditure  would 
have  been  a  very  serious  consideration,  so  that,  on  this 
account  alone,  total  inaction  for  the  rest  of  the  winter 
was  to  be  avoided  if  possible.  I  therefore  determined 
to  make  every  effort  to  extricate  the  remaining  heavy 
Eflfortsto  weights  from  their  marshy  bed.  With  this  object,  I 
the  flooded  forwaxdcd  a  supply  of  planks  to  Lieutenant  Lynch,  and 
^^  '  suggested  that  by  moving  them  in  succession  from  the 
rear  to  the  front  of  the  carriage,  we  might  create  a  plank 
road  as  we  went  along,  and  thus  pass  over  the  worst 
ground,  promising  my  personal  assistance  as  soon  as  I 
should  have  sufficiently  recovered  my  strength.*  I 
soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  learning  that  the  boiler's 
sledge  was  on  its  way  to  the  station  with  its  ponderous 
load,  while  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  continued  his  portion 
of  the  work  with  his  wonted  unshaken  perseverance. 

On  December  1  another  piece  of  boiler  was  safely 
brought  into  Port  William  by  Mr.  Hector,  wliose 
crowning  achievement  was  the  recovery  of  the 
Thediv-  diving-bcll,  which,  having  been  overtaken  by  the  rains, 
wojyered.  had  been  fairly  lost  in  a  sheet  of  muddy  water,  till  its 
position  was  ascertained  by  means  of  bamboos  used  as 
feelers.      Having    discovered    its    wliereabouts,    Mr. 

•  I  was  then  recovering  from  fever  and  ague. 


•^ir^ 


•I  Hi 

6 
« 
'ti 


tTPHRATBS      BOILER   BROUQUT   IS.  20S 

sd  it  to  be  rolled  out  of  the  water  by    chap. 

)le8,  placed  on  a  sledge,  and  drawn  by  ■ — --^ — 
s  station,  where  it  was  reoaved  with  lively 


nd  a  due  appreciation  of  his  successful 

lion  of  the  Mutsellim  of  Bir  having  relaxed 
ee,  our  efforts,  aided  by  liberal  payment, 
li  a  force  of  men  and  animals,  that  on 

ova:   heaviest  piece    of   boiler,  drawn 
cks,  assisted  by  52  natives  and  all  our 
ased  under  a  triumphal  arch   into  Port  la^tboiior 
Ist  a  discharge  of  rockets  and  petereros,  "[J^J,?"" 
bs,  rejoicings,  and  congratulations  of  our  »"iTes. 
ow  saw  a  termination  to  our  long-con- 
dous  labours.     One  individual  felt  disap- 
9tead  of  pleasure.      The   Mutsellim  of 
idently  expected  that  the  deep  mud  in 
lerlay  imbedded  would  have  rendered  its 
[y  impossible,  and  now  he  beheld  the  last 
»us  of  our  difficulties  happily  overcome ! 

steamer  was  now  fast  approaching 
ind  but  few  pieces  belonging  to  the 
ined  on  the  road.  To  form  dep6t8  of  iliel 
rer,  and  make  arrangements  for  the 
'  and  descent,  would  now  have  been  all 


resources. 


210  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION 

CHAP,  that  remained  to  be  done,  had  the  Egyptian  and 
' — r-— '  Turkish  officials  been  honest  in  giving  their  assistance. 
True,  they  had  received  orders  to  give  us  every  aid  ;  but 
as  neither  Government  really  desired  the  success  of  the 
Expedition,  they  took  advantage  of  the  neutral  ground 
lying  between  their  respective  frontiers,*  and  used  it 
to  disappoint  our  hopes  as  much  as  possible.  Our 
materials  were  readily  conveyed  as  far  as  the  Egyptian 
frontier,  where,  on  the  plea  that  tliey  had  no  right  to 
take  them  farther,  they  were  allowed  to  remain.  And 
there  they  would  have  remained  until  now,  had  no 
Reduced  otlicr  than  the  local  means  of  moving  them  on  been 
our  own  foimd.  But  by  the  use  of  our  own  horses  and  men, 
and  by  the  partial  adaptation  of  camels  to  purposes  of 
draught,  we  managed  to  do  without  the  natives,  and 
conveyed  our  materials  into  the  Sultan's  territory,  where 
we  had  a  right  to  demand  assistance.  Finding  himself 
foiled,  our  old  enemy,  the  Mutsellim,  caused  our 
horses  to  be  turned  out  of  the  village,  forced  the 
carpenters  to  leave  their  work  and  return  to  Bir,  with- 
held our  supphes  of  bread  from  that  town,  and  took 
the  more  decided  step  of  searching  our  station  for 
2,000  muskets,  which  he  alleged  had  been  brought  by 
us  with  some  sinister  design. 

These  extraordinary  proceedings  caused  me  to 
apprehend  that  the  seizure  of  our  vessels  was  intended ; 
and  the  thought  passed  through  my  mind,  that,  in  such 
an  event,  our  amply-supplied  magazine  provided  me 
with  the  meaus  of  leaving  him  nothing  but  the  fragments 
of  what  had  caused  us  such  toil.  When,  however,  my 
irritation  calmed  down,  I  saw  reason  to  beheve  tliat 

Thifl  wfu»  a  distance  of  barely  five  miles. 


DISMISSAL  OF  THE  MUTSELUM  OF  BIB.  211 

the  Mutsellim's  conduct,  as  well  as  that  of  Mehemet    chap. 

XI 

Ah  himself  were  not  likely  to  be  sanctioned  by  the  ^--^ — 
Sultan ;  and  on  representing  the  circumstance  to  the 
Porte  through  Lord  Ponsonby,  this  man  was  imme- 
diately dismissed,  and  a  more  favourably  disposed 
successor  appointed,  while  our  preparations  were 
quietly  resumed. 

At  one  time  during  our  difficulties,  the  immediate 
descent  of  the  river  with  the  larger  vessel  o?ily  seemed 
desirable,  leaving  the '  Tigris '  to  follow  on  her  comple- 
tion.    But  the  expected  addition  to  the  sailors  from 
England,   to  replace    the    men    who   had   perished, 
as  well  as  the  great  advantage  of  having  a   second 
steamer  in  case  of  any  untoward  circumstance,  caused 
this  hurried  descent  to  be   abandoned.       The    new 
MutselUm  also   gave   us   such   limited    assistance  in 
workmen  as  we  still  required  at  the  station ;  and  the 
Egyptian  Government  having  become  more  favourably 
disposed  towards  us,  I  turned  my  attention    to  the 
important  object  of  a  supply  of  fuel,  and  arranged  a 
journey  into  the   neighbouring  part  of  the  Taurus, 
with  a  view  to  the  solution  of  this  question. 


p2 


212 


NARBATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTEE  Xn. 


CHAP. 

xn. 


SEARCH    FOB  COAL  AND   NATIVE    STEEL   IN   THE   MOUNTAINS    NEAR 
MABASH — ^ASCENT   OP   THE   STEAMER  TO   THE   TOWN     OP    BIB. 

We  had  heard  that  coal  had  been  found  not  only  in 
the  country  to  the  westward  of  our  station,  but  also  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  below  Port  William,  where  it 
was  described  to  us  as  a  coal  of  greyish-white  colour. 
This  we  decided  to  leave  until  our  descent  of  the  river, 
and,  hoping  that  two  of  our  invalids,  Messrs.  Murphy  and 
Ainsworth,  might  be  benefited  by  the  change,  as  well  as 
myself,  we  left  Port  WilHam  on  January  9,  taking  with 
us  only  one  other  effective  individual,  Mr.  A.  Staunton. 
Proceeding  to  Aintab,  and  from  thence  to  Killis,  we 
crossed  the  Beilan  chain  to  Scanderoon;  whence  we 
sent  some  of  our  workmen  (whose  engagements  were 
completed)  to  England,  and  commenced  our  exploratory 
journey. 

After  going  over  the  Issic  plain,  its  battle-ground, 
and  other  places  of  interest,  we  continued  our 
journey  along  the  Jihun  *  to  Missis,  and  to  Adana, — 
thence  to  Tarsus,  where  we  were  hospitably  received 
by  the  family  of  the  French  C!onsul,  M.  Gilet,  whom  we 
found  engaged  in  excavating  some  very  singular  remains 
near  the  town.  These  consisted  of  massive  walls  in 
its  ancient  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  within  which,  at  either 

temple.  ^    •'■  ^ 

end,  was  a  solid  square  block  of  masonry, — ^while  two 

•  Jihun,  or  Jeharson,  the  *  River  of  the  World.' 


Beilan 
chain. 


Battle- 
ground of 
Issus. 


Tarsus  and 


JOURNEY  THROUGH  THE  TAURUS.  213 

transverse  and  very  substantial  lines  of  masonry  crossed     chap. 


XII. 


this  parallelogram  at  its  eastern  extremity.  M.  Gilet, 
however,  in  this  case  failed  to  find  anything  like  an 
interior  chamber,  the  whole  consisting  of  masses  of 
masonry,  which  most  probably  originally  formed  part 
of  some  kind  of  temple. 

Passing  onward  from  Tarsus  through  a  district  of 
tertiary  rock,  we  visited  the  extensive  but  imperfectly- 
worked  lead-mines  of  Kule  Bos^haz,  which  occur  in  Kuie 

.  Boghai 

limestone  of  the  cretaceous  series.  After  an  unsuc-  lead- 
cessful  attempt  to  find  the  expected  coalfields,  we 
resumed  our  journey  along  the  abutments  of  the 
Taurus,  in  the  direction  of  Sis.  The  people  on  this 
line  have  so  bad  a  name,  that  our  mukero  (muleteer) 
refused  to  take  us  by  the  direct  route,  and  we  had 
immediate  proof  of  his  correctness,  by  a  shot  which 
was  fired  at  us  as  we  approached  the  neighbour- 
ing village.  Shortly  after  this  proof  of  illwill,  Mr. 
Ainsworth  and  I,  when  looking  for  francolins,  found  We  lose 
that  we  had  lost  the  rest  of  our  party;  and  after  "  ^' 
attempting  for  some  time  to  find  them,  we  ultimately 
determined  to  proceed  onwards,  following  the  bear- 
ing which  had  been  given  us  of  north  72^  E.  We 
passed  through  a  very  picturesque  country,  and  having 
forded  the  Eiver  Jihun,  arrived  at  the  village  of 
Utchinga  soon  after  dark,  where  we  were  treated  to  a 
scanty  supper  and  one  bed,  without  any  tidings  of  our 
missing  companions.  Long  before  dayhght  we  moved 
onwards  in  the  same  direction  as  before,  and  reached  a 
village  called  Guesiche.  On  enquiring  for  the  lost 
Franks,  we  were  conducted  to  another  house,  where 
we  found  a  bright  fire,  but  not  that  of  our  attendant 


214  NAKEATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.    Malta.    The  master  of  the  house  led  us  upstairs,  where, 


XII. 


instead  of  our  own  party,  we  found  five  strangers  asleep. 
We  therefore  hastily  retraced  our  route,  passing  a 
Venetian   tower ;  and   after  making  unsuccessful  en- 

viiiage  of  quiries  at  the  village  of  Doorac,  we  reached,  in  the 
afternoon,  the  large  square  building,  inhabited  by  the 
local  chief  of  the  district,  Belemange-Oglou.  Here  we 
had  a  meal  of  thin  bread-cakes,  with  pomegranates  and 
water-melons,  &c. 

Enquiries  for  our  party  put  us  in  communication 
with  a  Eussian  doctor,  who  only  knew  a  few  words  of 
Turkish  in  addition  to  his  own  language.  Therefore, 
after  some  ludicrous  attempts  to  get  some  traces  of  our 
missing  companions,  we  had  recourse  to  the  Bei  him- 
self ;  ftx)m  whom  we  found,  to  our  serious  disappoint- 
ment, that  a  guide  could  only  be  obtained  to  Adana, 
and  not  to  Sis,  which  lies  in  the  opposite  direction. 
There  seemed  no  alternative  but  to  proceed :  keep- 
ing therefore  to  our  guiding  72^  East,  we  passed  over 
a  succession  of  wooded  shoulders,  and  through  pic- 
turesque valleys,  halting  for  refreshment  at  the  vil- 
lage of  Buschoff,  and  later  in  the  day  at  Boomgush, 
where,  to  our  surprise,  the  people  refused  payment  for 
their  hospitality.  We  put  up  for  the  night  at  Solacle, 
where  we  met  with  very  different  treatment,  for  a 
francolin,  cooked  by  ourselves,  was  all  that  fell  to  our 
lot.     Next  day  we  followed  the  course  of  the  Jihun, 

FaqueU  through  Very  fine  scenery,  to  Faquela  Quoi,  where, 
owing  probably  to  the  want  of  an  interpreter,  a  cold 
room  and  scanty  fare  were  all  that  we  could  obtain, 
which  treatment  naturally  increased  our  anxiety  to 
reach  Sis ;  indeed,  we  felt  sure  that  we  could  not  be 


CARLO  TAGH  AND  TOWN  OF  6TS.  215 

very  far  from   this  town,  unless  our  beaiings  were    chap. 
incorrect.  ,  - — ^-^ 

We  obtained  a  guide  for  a  short  distance  the  next 
morning,  although  not  without  considerable  difficulty, 
and  were  ferried  over  the  Jihun,  proceeding  parallel 
to  its  left  bank  in  what  we  supposed  to  be  the  direction 
of  Sis.     Early  in  the  afternoon  we  fell  in  with  some  Ouided  by 

compass* 

labourers,  who  told  us  that  this  town  lay  at  the  foot 
of  the  Carlo  Tagh.  The  very  remarkable  peaks  of 
this  mountain  now  guided  our  steps.  We  passed 
one  or  two  reed-built  villages,  and  halted  for  the  night 
at  Mosolu,  a  collection  of  huts,  in  one  of  which  we 
obtained  sorry  accommodation  amongst  a  crowd  of 
catergiea  (muleteers),  who  had  also  halted  with  their 
animals  for  the  night.  Unable  to  procure  a  guide,  we 
resumed  our  journey  towards  Carlo  Tagh  in  the  morn- 
ing ;  and  at  noon,  on  reaching  an  extensive  Turcoman  Onwaid 
camp,  we  had  the  great  satisfaction  of  finding  that  our  irood^ 
bearing  had  been  quite  correct.  Cheered  and  encou-  ^^"^  **"'' 
raged  by  this  certainty,  we  pressed  on  tlirough  an 
opener  country,  looking  out  anxiously  for  some  marked 
object  in  addition  to  Carlo  Tagh ;  but  none  appeared 
till  late  in  the  day,  when  we  descried,  at  the  distance  of 
some  20  miles,  a  stupendous  conical  rock  rising  from 
the  level  ground,  which  might,  or  might  not,  prove  to 
be  Sis.  The  plain  over  which  we  were  passing  was  in- 
tersected by  the  affluents  of  the  Jihun,  two  of  which  we 
forded ;  still,  there  was  no  appearance  of  any  town.  But, 
on  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  main  branch  of  the  Ji- 
hun, and  rounding  the  rocky  eminence  which  had  latterly 
guided  our  steps,  our  toil  and  anxieties  were  ended.  Arrive  at 
by  finding  ourselves  actually  entering  the  town  of  Sis. 


f 


21G  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        We  sought  and  found  hospitality  at  the   Convent 
^- — r-^  of  the  Armenian  Patriarch,  and  were  most  thankful 


for  the  fiiigal  supper  provided  for  us ;  but  still  there 
was  no  news  of  our  party.  Later  in  the  evening,  how- 
ever, we  learnt  that  they  were  at  Sis,  in  another  part 
of  the  town ;  and  on  hastening  to  their  quarters,  their 

Joinoup  welcome,  and  the  good  supper  prepared  by  Malta, 
made  up  not  only  for  our  scanty  meal  at  the  convent, 
but  also  for  our  privations  during  the  four  days,  during 
which  we  had  made  a  journey  of  about  125  miles.  We 
could  say  and  feel,  with  Horace,  that  past  dangers 
became  pleasmres.  On  comparing  notes  we  learnt 
that  our  party  had  remained  a  whole  day  at  the  place 
where  we  had  missed  them,  and  failing  to  find  any 
trace  of  our  route  they  continued  theirs  to  Sis ;  but  as 
they  were  behind  us,  and  took  another  line,  there  was 
no  chance  of  any  tidings  of  them  short  of  Sis,  which 
they  had  only  reached  the  day  before  we  did. 

Sis  is  the  seat  of  the  Armenian  Patriarch,  whose 
palace  is  in  the  town,  and  it  derives  much  of  its  im- 
portance from  its  being  the  centre  of  the  three  archi- 

The  town  cpiscopatcs  of  Turkey.  The  town  contains  about  1,000 
houses,  which  are  built  round  the  remarkable  rock 
already  mentioned,  which  rises  nearly  1,000  feet  above 
the  plain.  This  curious  position  has  been  castellated 
and  strengthened  with  more  than  ordinary  care,  and 
its  works  indicate  that  this  has  been  done  at  two 
different  periods — the  earUer  one  having  had  reference 
to  bows  and  arrows  only ;  the  latter  consisting  of  walls 
flanked  by  round  towers,  and  adapted  for  musketry. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  this  isolated  hill  is  a  spacious 
natural  cavern  full  of  stalactites,  which  have  a  rich 


RUINS  OF  AIN  2ABBAH.  217 

purple  or  rather  crimson  tint.     A  few  miles  fix>m  the    chap. 

.  .  .  .  XII 

modern  town  of  Sis  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city,  • — r-^ 


now  called  £ara  Sis,  or  Black  Sis.  Its  principal  feature 
is  a  remarkable  castle,  on  one  side  of  which  a  succession 
of  cut-stone  steps  rise  to  the  very  sunmiit  of  the  hill. 
We  devoted  the  following  day  to  the  ruins  of  Ain  Ain 
Zarbah.  Its  castellated  remains  are  a  few  miles  to  the 
eastward  of  Sis.  They  have  an  imposing  appearance, 
occupying,  as  they  do,  the  steep  slopes  of  a  lofly  rock 
on  the  banks  of  the  Fyramus,  and  the  cut-stones  are 
here  still  sharp  and  fresh.  The  crest  of  the  hiU  lis 
reached  by  steps  cut  in  the  rock ;  it  would  otherwise 
be  quite  inaccessible.  The  ruins  at  its  base  consist  of 
a  square  enclosure  with  a  triple  line  of  defence,  con- 
taining temples  and  other  remains. 

From  Ain-Zarbah  we  made  our  way  to  an  adjoining  Tmcoman 
Turcoman  camp,  where  we  received  scanty  hospitahty,  ^™^' 
but  were  allowed  to  pass  the  night,  and  the  next  morn- 
ing we  traversed  the  alpine  and  wooded  scenery  of  the 
abutments  of  this  part  of  the  Taurus.     One  night  was  Hurdk- 
spent  in  a  small  hut,  built  of  hurdles  and  partially  y^age. 
flooded,  in  the  Turcoman  village  of  Adjain  Oglu  Byad- 
Fuquoie.     The  following  night  we  reached  Zootale,  a 
neat  Armenian  village  containing  stone-built  houses, 
snugly  placed  in  a  hollow  on  the  mountain-side. 

The  scenery  continued  strikingly  bold,  and  was  varied 
by  two  fine  waterfalls,  and  by  the  junction  of  the  two 
branches  of  the  Jihun  some  500  feet  below  us,  while 
beyond  this  appeared  a  village,  looking  as  if  suspended 
over  the  water.  Near  this  the  ground  became  so 
difficult  that  it  was  necessary  to  unload  our  animals 
and  carry  our  luggage  across  it ;  later  we  forded  the 


218  NABRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

Ohap.    Anabat  Su,  and  light  beginning  to  &il  we  were  glad  to 

.^^  seek  shelter  from  heavy  rain  in  a  goatherd's  hut  on  the 

gM^eni'B   Diountain  slope,  which  was  ab:eady  so  filled  by  a  flock 

^^^'  of  kids,  that  in  order  to  admit  us  the  shepherds  had  to 

remain  outside  all  night  smoking  their  pipes.      We 

rewarded  them  next  morning  for  their  kindness  and 

their  supply  of  milk,  and  proceeded  on  our  way. 

Neither  of  our  hosts  was  willing  to  act  as  guide, 
and  we  had  to  get  on  as  best  we  could  with  tlie 
Durdun  Tagh  before  us.  The  mountain  scenery  was 
extremely  fine,  occasionally  diversified  with,  cascades  as 
far  as  the  castle  and  village  of  Anabat.  Thence  we 
DOngaiA  continued  our  route  through  the  village  of  Dungala,  and 
^*^^*  descending  through  deep  snow  we  arrived,  after  many 
difficulties,  at  the  village  of  Fank,  where  we  thoroughly 
enjoyed  the  luxury  of  a  good  fire  to  dry  our  wet 
clothes.  Our  path  still  lay  along  the  side  of  the 
wooded  mountain,  at  a  considerable  elevation,  and  ere 
long  it  became  almost  impracticable ;  the  baggage  horse 
missed  his  footing  and  slipped  down  the  declivity,  till 
his  descent  was  fortunately  arrested  by  a  tree,  where 
he  remained,  with  his  legs  on  each  side  of  it,  suspended 
over  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  We  managed  to  unload 
the  poor  fellow,  and  prepared  to  rescue  him  by  means 
of  the  ropes  attached  to  the  baggage,  with  which  we 
hauled  him  up  to  the  pathway,  never  expecting  that 
he  would  be  able  to  move  :  to  our  surprise,  however, 
he  was  almost  unhurt,  and  did  his  work  as  well  as  usual. 
We  now  retraced  our  steps  to  Dungala,  in  order  to 
find  a  more  practicable  road,  and  the  next  morning  re- 
sumed our  journey.  A  steep  and  difficult  descent  led 
us  down  to  the  Kurolu-su,  which  we  forded  above  its 


MARASH  AND  ITS  PBODUCTS.  219 

junction  with  the  Jihun  ;  then,  touching  a  bend  of  this    chap. 
river,  we  followed  a  mountain  pathway  till  we  opened  — ^-r-^ 
a  more  practicable  pass  through  the  Taurus,  which 
brought  us  to  Marash,  where  we  were  conducted  to  the  iteaeh 

^^  Tit       —  ■      la 

very  quarters  I  had  formerly  occupied  in  that  city. 

Here  the  satisfactory  intelligence  awaited  us  that 
rapid  progress  was  being  made  with  the  *  Tigris'  steamer, 
and  that,  owing  to  recent  orders  from  Mehemet  Ali,  our 
few  remaining  materials  and  stores  were  no  longer  to 
be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  territory  which  had  been 
disowned  by  both  the  Sultan  and  the  Pacha. 

Marash  had  l)een  an  important  place  to  us,  our 
supply  of  timber  having  come  from  its  surrounding 
forests.  Iron,  plumbago,  and  native  steel  are  also 
found  in  its  neighbourhood,  but  our  expectations  of 
coal  were  disappointed,  and  here  our  search  for  it  ended. 
Lieutenant  Murphy  and  Mr.  Ainsworth  set  out  for 
Samsat  to  connect  that  place  by  triangulations  with  our 
station,  and  I  started  alone  and  on  foot  for  Port  WiUiam,  Rettun  to 
full  of  the  prospect  of  immediately  commencing  the  wuiumi, 
long-delayed  descent  and  survey  of  the  Euphrates. 

Taking  the  route  of  Kumkalah  and  Oram,  I  reached 
the  station  on  the  evening  of  February  24,  where  I  had 
the  inexpressible  pleasure  of  finding  everything  in  a  most 
satisfiictory  state.  Lieutenant  Cleaveland,  Mr.  Eden, 
and  Seyd  Ali,  with  the  local  assistance,  which  was  now, 
for  the  first  time,  given  heartily,  were  approaching 
with  the  last  heavy  portion  of  the  '  Tigris.'  Lieutenant 
Lynch  and  his  brother  were  employed  in  making  some 
necessary  purchases  at  Aintab.  Captain  Estcourt,  his 
brother  Mr.  William  Estcourt,*  Messrs.  Fitzjames,  Staun- 

•  The  Rev.  William  Estcourt,  of  Newnton  Rectory,  Tetbury,  Wilts. 


220 


NARRATIVE   OF   THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 

xn. 


ton,  Hector,  and  Eassam  were  at  the  station,  and  their 
work  almost  finished.  Indeed,  we  scarcely  now  required 
any  assistance  from  Mehemet  Ali,  whose  vexatious 
thwarting  and  opposition  terminated  when  all  difficulties 
had  been  overcome  by  our  own  perseverance.  Our 
last  heavy  weight,  the  'Tigris'  boiler,  reached  the  station 
on  February  27,  drawn  by  104  oxen,  with  52  native 
drivers  to  give  them  assistance,  as  well  as  all  our 
own  men,  and  it  entered  Port  Wilham  under  a  trium- 
phal  arch  formed  of  the  flags  and  ensigns  of  both 
Last  boiler  the  stcamcrs.  It  was  the  last  of  our  difficulties  happily 
"^  *"'  overcome,  and  as  such  was  greeted  by  a  discharge  of 
guns  and  rockets,  while  three  hearty  cheers  proclaimed 
the  completion  of  our  herculean  task. 

While  the  bulwarks  of  the  '  Tigris '  were  being  pre- 
pared, the  time  was  well  employed  by  Lieutenant 
Lynch  in  connecting  the  river  below  Samsat  with  our 
station.  The  line  of  levels  was  als(5  completed  by  Mr. 
Thomson  ;  and  the  measurement  of  a  base-Une  for  the 
approaching  survey  was  carried  out  by  Captain  Estcourt 
and  Mr.  Murphy,  as  well  as  the  pendulum  experiments. 
Our  numbers  were  also  completed  at  this  period  by  the 
arrival  of  two  sappers  and  four  men  from  the  *  Colum- 
bine,' and  the  following  distribution  of  officers  and  men 
was  made  for  the  approaching  survey  and  descent : — 

Allotment  of  Officers  and  Men  to  the  'Euphrates*  and  *  Tigris* 
Steamers,  the  Commanding  Officer  being  alternately  in 
each  steamer : — 


Line  of 
levels, 
and 
survey,  &c 


'  EXTPHBATES.' 

Capt  J.  B.  Estcourt,  43rd  L.  Lu 
Lieut  R.  F.  Cleaveland,  R.  N. 
Ldeut  H.  F.  Murphy,  R.  E. 
Mr.  £.  P.  Charlewood,  R.  N. 


'  TiGKIS.' 

Lieut.  H.  B.  Lynch,  Indian  Navy, 
Mr.  H.  Eden,  R  N. 
Lieut  R.  Cockbum,  R  A. 
Doctor  Staunton,  R.  A. 


OFFICEBS  AND  MEN  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


221 


'EUPHKATIS.' 

Mr.  J.  FitsjameSy  R.  N. 

Mr.  '^i^^lliam  Ainsworih. 

Mr.  C.  Raaaam.  1  _  ^ 
SevdAU.  |A<«y«fer.. 

ft 

Mr.  Thomaa  Hurst,  Engmeer, 

Dr.  Heifer.    1  „ 

Mrs.  Heifer.  J  ^««»^^'- 


<  Tigris.' 

Mr.  A.  Staunton. 
Mr.  W.  T.  Thomson. 
Mr.  WUliam  Eliot   I  ^  ,       ^ 
J.  Ssder.  J  ^'•<«y^^'- 

Mr.  Andrew  Clegg,  EngimMr. 
Lieut.  R.  R  Lynch,  1  _, 
Lidian  Army.       J  -"»«»^^- 


CHAP. 

xn. 


Sergeant-majorWilliam  Quin,  R.  A., 
Storekeeper  and  Mtuter-ai^Amu, 


Acting  Sergeant  R.  Clerk,  R.  E., 
Carpenter, 


Mmeri, 


Sergeant  Sein,  R.  R 

Corporal  Gidens,  R  R 

Gunner  Hughes,  R.  A. 

Gunner    Gr^gor    Mc- 
Donald, R.  A. 

Gunner  Charles  Camp- 
bell, R.  A. 

Gunner    Edward     An- 1 
drews,  R.  A.  j-  Smiths. 

Gunner  Job  V aines,  R.  A.  J 

Gunner  David  Ewart,  R.  A. 

Corporal  W.  Greenhill,  R.  A.,  Ai^ 
dtUmt  to  Lieut  Murphy. 

Corporal  William  Black,  R  R 

Corporal     W.  "i 
Blaah,  B,.^\ABsidanU  to   the 

PriTate   Edra-  |      Engineer, 
ton,  R  R     J 

PriTate  William  Edrington,  R  R 


Bombardier  Thomson,  R  A. 
Gunner  Harrison,  R.  A. 
Gunner     Robert     Tur- 1 

ner,  R  A .  V  Miners, 

Gunner  James  Hay,  R.  A.  J 
Gunner  Thonuis        i 

Jones,  R.  A.  >  Smiths. 

Gunner  Gosling,R.  A.  J 
Gunner  JohnWaddell,  R.  A.,  Trum- 

peter. 
Corporal  Benjamin -k 

Usher,  R.  R        I  Assistants  to 
Private    Archibald  |  the  Engineer, 

McDonald,  R  A.  i 


Seamen. 


William  Frew,  Carpenter. 
Thomas  Jones,  Quartermaster, 
Thomas  Fhipps,  Boatswain. 
John  Haigh,  Sailmaker, 
Thomas  Phillips. 
George  Davies. 
Thomas  Hunter,  Jun. 
William  Denbigh.  • 


Ellas  Lowrie,  Quartermaster. 
Benjamin  Qiheon,BoatstO€un^sMate, 
Thomas  Hunter,  Sen.,  Sailmaker. 
Thomas  Booth. 
Charles  Nash. 
Thomas  Batty. 
William  Benson. 
George  Liddel. 


222 


NASRATIVE  OF  THE  EDPHBATES  EXPEDmOX. 


CHAP. 
XTI. 

'  EUPHKATES.' 

David  Raerdon. 
Franklin  Hofinan. 
John  Malta,  Steward, 
John  Waters,  Cook. 
Hadji  Mahomed. 
Brown          1 
John  OTarke  J  ^'^• 

'  TlORTB.' 

Dubek  Sacho. 

f 

Giacomo,  Cook  and  Baker* 
Vecenzo,        „            „ 
Antoni,           „            „ 
James  Whittaker,  BoHer-makcr* 

Mr.  John  Bell*  left  in  charge  of  Port  William. 

A  flat-boat,  more  like  a  raft  indeed  than  an  ordinary 
boat,  had  been  built  in  order  to  deposit  a  supply  of 
coal  in  advance  of  the  steamer ;  and  our  preparations 
being  thus  completed,  our  vessel  was  put  in  motion  for 
Triri-trip.   a  trial-trip  to  Bir  on  March  16.     On  this  first  attempt 
the  engines  failed  to  do  their  work,  but  a  more  satis- 
factory trial  was  made  the   next  morning.      About 
midway  between  Port  William  and  Bir  an  island  leaves 
only  a  narrow  channel  on  its  western  side,  and  the 
current  being  rapid  at  this  spot,  Mr.  Fitzjames  and  a 
few  men  were  landed  on  the  island,  provided  with  a 
hawser,  to  guide  the  vessel  in  case  her  rudder  should 
fail  to  act  at  this  critical  place.     Thus  prepared,  the 
*  Euphrates '  passed  into  the  opener  part  of  what  were 
now  her  own  waters,  at  full  speed,  and  displajring  the 
British   and  Turkish   ensigns,   she  saluted  the  castle 
and  town  of  Bir  as  we  approached.     Our  21  guns, 
in  honour  of  the  Sultan,  were  duly  returned  by  such 
artillery  as  the  place  afforded,  and  the  scene  altogether 
was  most  animated  ;  for  the  walls  of  the  town,  as  well 
83  the  surrounding  chalk  hills,  were  covered  by  the 
population,  old  and  young.     Our  intercourse  with  the 

*  Mr.  John  Bell  afterwards  went  to  Abyssinia,  where  he  entered  the 
service  of  Theodore^  and  was  killed  whilst  defending  the  king  against 
assassins. 


ASCENT  TO  THB  TOWN  OF  BIB.  223 

people  before  we  returned  to  Port  William  gave  us    ^^^' 
some  idea  of  the  surprise  which  the   ascent  of  the  "- 


steamer  against  the  current  had  caused  them.  There  ^^„ 
was  no  idea  in  this  part  of  Asia  that  iron  could  be  Kf^^  *® 
made  to  float ;  therefore,  until  actually  in  motion,  it  was 
believed  that  the  steamer  must  be  resting  on  the 
bottom  of  the  river.  Once  off,  however,  and  stemming 
a  rapid  current,  their  astonishment  knew  no  bounds ; 
'  ten  EngUshmen,'  they  said,  '  could  take  their  town,' 
and  they  declared  that  thrfact  of  our  having  immolated 
two  Turks  on  board  had  given  us  this  supernatural 
power.  It  was  owing  to  this  power,  they  asserted, 
that  one  child  had  fallen  upon  another  from  the  top  of 
a  minareh  without  any  injury  to  either. 

Having  given  the  good  people  of  Bir  an  opportunity  Last  day 
of  visiting  the  steamer  whilst  lying  opposite  to  their  wuiiam. 
town,  we  returned  to  our  station  in  order  to  make  our 
final  preparation  for  the  descent  and  survey  of  the 
great  river. 


224       NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  Xm. 

DESCENT  AND   SURVEY  OF  THE  RIVER  EUPHRATES  FROM  PORT  WILLUM 

TO   ZELEBI. 

CHAP.    In  the  short  ascent   and   descent  just  accomplished, 

YTTT 

_;^1 .  we  had  a  practical  proof  that  our  steamer  promised  to 
2^  realise  Mr.   Laird's  expectations,  and  this   trial  had 

steamer  ^  '  _ 

quite  a  cnyen  US  everv  hope  that  she  would  be  equal  to  all  that 
would  be  required  of  her  during  the  almost  imtried 
navigation  of  the  great  river. 

The  inspiriting  scene  at  Birejik,  and  the  conviction 

that  we  had  taken  the  first  step  in  extending  those 

commercial  relations  which  Great  Britain  has  so  long 

maintained  with  her  ancient  ally  the  Sultan,  gave  us  a 

feeling  of  confidence  in  our  success,  which  was  shared 

by  our  whole  party.     We  descended  the  river  to  a 

suitable  halting-place  a  httle  below  Port  William,  and 

with  somewhat  reduced  speed,  and  every  precaution, 

we  passed  along  the  bold  chalk  hills  on  the  Mesopo- 

tamian  side,  at  the  rate  of  13  or  14  knots  per  hour, 

leaving  behind  us  that  double  stream  of  broken  water 

with  which  we  have  been  familiar  since  1814,  when 

the  first  river-steamers  were  introduced  on  the  Clyde 

and  Forth. 

Suppriue         To  the  people  of  this  part  of  the  East,   however, 

bythe        the  powcrs  of  steam   were  utterly  unknown.     After 

iJ^motive  ^^^^  vi3UB\  cxclamation  of  '  God  is  great !'  they  com- 

vo^^'       pared  the  magical  propulsion  of  the  vessel  to  a  gigantic 


DESCENT  AND   SURVEY.  225 

arrow,  '  driven '  (they  said)  *  through  the  water  by  a     chap. 

XIII 

supernatural  power,  throwing  one  half  of  the  river  on  ^ — r-^ 
this  side,  tlie  other  on  that.'  Their  excitement  was 
beyond  description,  whilst  we,  as  we  approached  our 
anchorage,  were  quietly  dining  in  the  cabin  with  some 
friends  who  had  done  us  much  service ;  and  thus 
closed  this  eventful  .day,  which  formed  the  one  bright 
spot  between  the  toils  and  trials  of  the  preceding  eleven 
months,  and  those  which  were  still  to  be  met  during 
the  further  progress  of  the  Expedition. 

We  proposed  to  carry  on  the  descent  and  survey  of  Projected 
the  river  simultaneously  as  follows :  the  longitudes  and  ■'^®^* 
latitudes  of  the  principal  points  were  to  be  determined 
by  Lieutenant  Murphy  :  a  chain  of  triangles  was  to  be 
carried  along  the  river  by  Captain  Estcourt,  and  a  map 
of  the  country  laid  down  by  him  also :  and  the  river 
was  to  be  most  carefully  sounded  and  examined.  We 
had  also  to  decide  where  depots  of  coal  should  be 
placed :  these  practical  arrangements  occupied  our  first 
evening.  The  next  day  was  one  of  most  active  em- 
ployment. At  an  early  hour  Lieutenant  Cleaveland 
and  Mr.  Charlewood  started  to  survey  the  first  portion 
of  the  river.  Mr.  Fitzjames  was  preparing  to  raft  coals 
for  the  use  of  the  steamers.  Lieutenant  Murphy  was 
engaged  in  determining  the  astronomical  points,  whilst 
Captain  Estcourt  continued  the  survey,  with  his  wonted 
energy,  in  order  to  map  the  country  from  Bir  to  Beles. 

The  prosecution  of  these  important  objects  by  iso- 
lated and   almost   unprotected  parties  on  the  water 
may  appear  to  have  been  almost  too  hazardous,  but  in  a  feeling 
no  one  instance  was  any  anxiety  or  reluctance  felt  by  denc«  ^ 
any  one  of  those  so  employed.     Constant  intercourse  by  p^®^*^^- 

Q 


226  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    night  and  day  with  the  people  of  the  country,  during 


XIII. 


eleven  months,  had  removed  any  feelings  of  imeasiness 
which  the  officers  and  men  might  at  first  have  enter- 
tained. I  was  probably  less  free  from  anxiety  than 
those  under  my  command,  remembering,  as  I  did,  the 
treatment  which  I  had  formerly  more  than  once  ex- 
perienced from  the  Arabs ;  though  at  the  same  time 
the  fact  that  no  temptation  of  arms,  stores,  or  even 
gold,  had  in  any  one  instance  induced  them  to  break 
faith  with  us  since  we  landed,  seemed  to  justify  my 
present  confidence  in  them ;  besides,  instead  of  having 
to  deal,  as  formerly,  with  a  soUtary  individual,  we 
were  now  well-armed,  and  accompanied  by  a  strong 
and  to  them  a  mysterious  if  not  a  supernatural  power. 
Steam  The  suddcu  appearance  of  a  strange  machine  cutting 
HBuperna  through  the  water,  and  moving  against  wind  and 
jj^er.  current  from  one  centre  of  operations  to  another, 
could  not  fail  to  impress  the  minds  of  a  superstitious 
people ; — we  felt  that,  in  descending  the  river  under 
these  novel  circumstances,  we  ran  no  kind  of  risk,  so 
long  as  the  prestige  of  our  supernatural  powers  re- 
mained in  full  force.  I  should  mention  that  we  were 
commencing  the  survey  with  only  one  steamer,  the 
*  Tigris '  not  being  yet  sufficiently  advanced  to  accom- 
pany her  consort. 
The  Our  progress  the  next  day  was  not  propitious.     After 

resumes  going  ou  favourably  for  some  hours  the  steamer  ran 
Bceutl^  aground,  and  that  so  firmly  that  it  became  necessary 
to  lighten  her  to  get  her  afloat.  Before  that  could  be 
accomphshed  a  violent  storm  of  thimder,  lightning, 
and  rain  came  on,  and  continued  without  intermission 
for  nearly  three  days.     It  was  not  until  March  22  that 


WHIRLPOOL  OP  GOURLOU.  227 

the  descent  was  resumed,  and  we  reached  a  place    chap. 

XIII 

remarkable  from  the  passage  which   the   river  here  — .-L- 
forces  for  itself  through  a  barrier  of  diflScult  hills.     This 
spot  is  tlie  whirlpool  of  Gourlou,  and  close  to  it  the 
river  makes  a  bend  almost  at  a  right  angle  as  it  passes 
a  perpendicular  mass  of  rock.      It   was  with   some 
anxiety  that  we  approached  this  singular  spot,  although 
we  had  the  advantage  of  Mr.  Charlewood's,  previous 
examination  of  its  diflSculties,  as  well  as  of  the  thought- 
ful action  of  Captain  Estcourt,  who,  as  we  neared  the  Passing 
dangerous  spot,  appeared  on  the  crest  of  the  rocks,  po^iV 
waving  his  hat  to  warn  us  to  keep  clear  of  the  whirl-      ^  ®"' 
pool.     We  found  this  far  easier  to  do  than  we  had 
anticipated ;  the  vessel  answered  her  helm  most  per- 
fectly at  the  critical   moment,  and  we  brought  up 
below  the  village  of  Gourlou,  to  which  the  coaUng 
raft  followed,  amidst  the  exclamations  of  wonder  of  the 
people. 

Next  day  the  boats  surveyed  the  river  as  far  as  the  jeraboiis. 
picturesque  castle  of  Jeraboiis,  whither  the  steamer 
and  raft  followed  them  immediately.  Here  we  found  a 
supply  of  coal,  which  our  horses  had  brought  from 
Port  WiUiam,  and  received  at  the  same  time  the  satis- 
factory intelligence  that  the  '  Tigris '  was  almost  ready 
to  join  us. 

In   the  neighbourhood   of  Jerabohs,  we   met  the  sungsand 
Shook,  a  tribe  of  Arabs  who  are  still  armed  with  the  the  shook 
primitive  weapons  of  slings  and  huge  clubs.     At  first  ^^^ 
they  approached  us  with  a  feehng  of  alarm,  which 
gradually  lessened,  and  was  soon  exchanged  for  one 
of  confidence  and  cordiaUty.     Here  our  two  surveying 
parties  joined  us,  while  the  boats  were  again  sent  on 

q2 


228  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     in  advance.     We  walked  over  the  plain  to  the  ruins 

XIII. 

— .-^  of  Membidge  (once  HierapoUs) ;  there  we   found  an 
(oDce         extensive  aqueduct,  a  temple  believed  to  have   been 
toH^"        dedicated  to  Aterates,  and  other  remains.     We  were 
accompanied  by  some  Arabs,  of  whose  friendly  dis- 
position we  had  an  accidental  proof  by  finding  their 
arms  (about  thirty  stand)  in  the  tombs  of  the  cemetery 
where  they  had  deposited  them  before  joining  us. 
Friendii-         On  our  rctum  to  the  steamer,  we  learnt  that  she  had 

ness  of  the   ,  ••^i-i*  ^  i  -i  ai 

Arabs.  been  visited  dunng  our  absence  by  a  good  many  Arabs, 
some  of  whom  came  ofi*  to  her  on  inflated  skins,  while 
all  evinced  a  friendly  feeling  towards  us.  They  often 
caused  us  much  amusement  by  their  remarks.  It  was 
our  invariable  custom  to  lay-to  on  Sunday,  and  to  allow 
some  of  the  men  to  go  on  shore  in  the  boat  Wlien 
ready  to  return  we  heard  their  *  If  you  please  send  the 
boat,'  which  was  construed  by  the  Arabs  into  '  Eblis ' 
(Devil)^  and  they  expressed  their  surprise  to  Eassam 
that  all  these  Englishmen  bore  the  name  of  Eblis — 
or  Satan.  Their  attempts  at  pronouncing  our  English 
names  were  signal  failures.  Chesney  was  the  only  one 
they  could  manage.  This  they  pronounced  very  well, 
but  Cleaveland  was  Clayoion;  Charlewood,  Challoot; 
Fitzjames,  Fissajirnmis;  l&sconvty  Scoot  (or  smooth),  <S:c. 
Next  morning  we  received  a  favourable  report  from 
Kftiat-en-  Licutcnant  Cleaveland  of  the  navigabihty  of  the  river 
Nejm.  ^  fj^j.  ^  Kalat-en-Nejm.  Just  as  we  were  starting  we 
perceived  that  the  Arabs,  who  had  shown  symptoms  of 
gi^eat  alarm,  were  actually  praying  to  be  delivered 
from  the  terrible  danger  witli  which  they  believed 
themselves  to  be  menaced.  The  first  part  of  this  day's 
descent  was  carried  on  with  unusual  care,  the  river 


TUNNEL   OF  KALAT-EN-NEJM.  229 

being  wide  and  comparatively  shallow,  but  it  was  easy     chap. 
work  beyond  this  to  Kalat-en-Nejm,  the  Castle  of  the 


Stars.  The  boats  preceded  us  under  Mr.  Charle- 
wood  and  Mr.  Hector,  who  had  come  to  us  from  liis 
own  vessel,  the  '  Tigris,'  for  orders.  The  Castle  of  the 
Stars  occupies  an  important  place  in  connexion  with 
Arab  astronomy,  and  with  us  it  had  the  additional 
interest  of  being  the  spot  where  the  tunnel  was  supposed 
to  exist  beneath  the  river.  The  castle  itself  is  tole- 
rably perfect,  with  the  exception  of  a  single  breach  made 
during  its  defence  by  the  Arabs  against  the  Turks.  It 
occupies  a  commanding  position,  overhanging  the  water. 

The  passage  beneath  the  river  was  naturally  our  Tunnel 
leading  object,  and  a  descent  of  some  200  stone  steps  Eupbi^. 
with  inclined  slopes  at  intervals,  on  the  Arabian  side, 
brought  us  into  a  spacious  subterranean  passage,  which 
we  followed,  expecting  to  come  out  in  Mesopotamia. 
Ere  long,  however,  we  found  it  blocked  up  with  loose 
stones,  which  we  proceeded  to  clear  away,  and  suc- 
ceeded ill  opening  a  practicable  passage,  which  we 
followed  until  the  dangerous  state  of  the  roof  warned 
us  to  go  no  farther.  Our  expectation  of  crossing  into 
Mesopotamia  under  the  Euphrates  was  thus  disappointed, 
nor  were  we  able  to  ascertain  wliether  the  tunnel  is 
continuous,  from  side  to  side.  Arab  tradition  makes 
it  pass  the  whole  way  under  the  river  and  come  out  at 
Serren  Tower,  nearly  three  miles  from  the  left  bank. 

The  surveying  parties  joined  us  at  this  place.    Lieu-  Sorren 
tenant  Cleaveland  returned  witli  a  description  of  the 
river  as  £Eir  as  Kara  Bambuge.     On  the  left  bank  we 
discovered    a  raised   causeway    extending    from   the 
neighbouring  hills  to  the  river,  where   it  terminates 


230  NARRATIVE  OF  TIIE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  in  solid  masonry,  with  sloping  buttresses  down  to 
' — • — '  the  water,  affording  facilities  for  landmg-places  at  dif- 
ferent heights  up  the  river.  In  these  sloping  walls 
are  recesses,  apparently  in  connexion  with  the  land- 
ing-places, as  if  to  afford  storage  for  goods.  We 
traced  the  paved  Eoman  road  for  a  short  distance 
from  this  well-known  zeugma  (ford)y  and  we  found 
corresponding  though  less  perfect  remains  on  the 
Arabian  side  of  this  passage  ;  the  communication  may 
have  been  carried  on  by  a  bridge,*  or  by  means  of 
boats  only. 

We  had  much  friendly  intercourse  with  the  Arabs 
of  the  Aniza,  as  well  as  of  other  tribes  at  this  place. 
They  came  off  frequently  and  most  gladly  to  visit  us, 
paddling  on  their  inflated  skins  to  the  steamer,  which 
they  began  to  regard  as  a  friendly  though  most  incom- 
prehensible monster. 

As  soon  as  our  astronomical  observations  at  ICalat- 
Descent  cu-Nejm  werc  completed,  we  resumed  the  descent 
with  the  intention  of  reaching  Kara  Bambuge  on 
the  30th.  But  when  we  were  about  six  miles  from 
our  destination,  a  bank  of  pebbles,  which  had  been 
completely  hidden  by  the  turbid  waters  of  a  violent 
flood  when  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  had  passed  down 
in  his  boat,  suddenly  interrupted  our  voyage,  and 
not  only  caused  serious  delay,  but  gave  rise  to  two  or 
three  stirring  incidents  connected  with  Arab  life. 

Not  anticipating  any  lengthened  delay,  I  walked  on 
in  advance  of  the  steamer  to  examine  the  opening 
through    the    rocky  banks    of    the    river    at    Kara 

*  Captain  Lynch  found  the  abutments  of  this  bridge,  when  passing  at 
a  later  period  up  the  river  during  the  season  of  low  water. 


THE  STEAMER  AGROUND.  231 

Bambuge.      This  pass  is  extremely  striking ;  on  tlie    chap. 
left  bank   huge   masses  of  limestone  rock  rise  per-  >. 


pendicularly  to  a  great  height  above  the  river,  which  ^^*^' 
is  here  about  400  yards  broad  ;  whilst  on  the  right  Bambsgo. 
bank  equally  grand  and  lofty  chalk  rocks  are  sur- 
mounted by  the  ruins  of  an  extensive  castle,  which 
has  been  built  in  successive  stages,  from  the  water's 
edge  to  the  summit  of  the  rock,  while  the  river 
below  flows  round  the  foundation  of  tlie  castle, 
nearly  at  right  angles  to  its  previous  course. 

This  passage  was  examined  with  much  care  with 
reference  to  our  vessel,  to  which  we  then  returned. 
In  the  meantime  the  state  of  the  river  had  become 
more  unfavourable  to  our  progress.  A  rush  of  water 
had  driven  the  steamer  up  the  side  of  a  bank  of  steamer 
pebbles,  which  we  saw  must  be  moved  somehow  f^und. 
or  other  before  she  could  be  floated.  All  our  ener- 
gies were  at  once  turned  in  this  direction,  and  a  large 
body  of  Arabs  was  employed  to  dig  out  our  vessel. 
This  operation,  however,  proved  to  be  quite  the  labour 
of  Sisyphus,  for  the  current  replaced  the  bank  of 
pebbles  almost  as  fast  as  it  was  removed.  In  this  way, 
still  hoping,  and  as  constantly  disappointed,  things 
continued  for  some  time,  until  our  work  was  unex- 
pectedly interrupted. 

Hassan  Agha,  sheikh  of  the  Beni  Said,  had  been 
invited  to  our  steamer,  and  had  received  a  fowling- 
piece  in  return  for  his  kindness,  shown  previously  to 
our  surveying  parties.  He  was  sent  back  to  liis  tribe 
in  our  boat,  little  expecting  that  this  piece  of  attention 
would  be  attended  by  any  unpleasant  consequences. 
I  was  returning  from  taking  some  bearings  with  Lieu- 


t 


232  NARRATIVE   OF  THE  EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  tenant  Murphy,  when  several  shots  near  the  landing- 
--  .  '--  place  caused  us  to  hasten  our  steps  with  most  un- 
comfortable forebodings,  which  were  increased  on 
our  meeting  Dr.  Heifer,  and  hearing  that  our  boat 
had  been  attacked  and  that  Sheikh  Hassan  was  killed. 
We  hurried  forward,  our  little  band  being  joined 
by  Mr.  Hector,  Corporal  Greenhill,  and  three  of  our 
men ;  and  found  upwards  of  fifty  Arabs  preparing  to 
attack  the  vessel,  and  at  the  same  time  almost  cutting 
off  our  communication  with  her.  Under  these  critical 
circumstances  we  took  the  bold  course  of  advancing  to 
clear  a  passage,  which  movement  was  seen  on  board, 
and  a  blank  airtridge  was  at  once  fired  from  one  of 
the  steamer's  9-pounders,  which  ended  the  affair  by 
causing  the  Arabs  to  scamper  off. 

'Mr.  Fitzjames  now  joined  us,  and  from  him  we  re- 
ceived an  explanation  of  the  whole  thing.  Sheikh 
Hassan's  tril^e,  the  Beni  Said,  had  a  long-standing 
blood-feud  with  the  Fahal  Arabs,  who,  seeing  their 
enemy  landing  from  our  boat,  seized  this  opportunity 
of  revenging  themselves  upon  him.  Hassan  endea- 
voured to  save  his  life  by  flying  back  to  our  protection, 
and  as  the  boat  shoved  off,  the  undaunted  Sheikh 
loaded  his  recently-acquired  piece  and  returned  the 
fire  of  his  enemies.  About  twelve  shots  were  fired  at 
her  before  she  could  get  out  of  reach,  three  of  which 
struck  her,  though,  as  it  proved,  harmlessly,  and  the 
Sheikh  escaped  unhurt.  If  our  blank  cartridge  had 
not  produced  a  decided  effect,  our  guns  were  provided 
with  canister  as  a  last  resource ;  but  having  ascer- 
tained satisfactorily  tliat  no  hostihty  was  intended 
towards  us,   I   accompanied   Lieutenant  Murphy  on 


An  Arab 
blood-fend. 


r^^K^'  SK 


I, 


EFFORTS  TO   EXTRICATE   THE  STEAMER.  233 

shore  in  the  afternoon,  while  he  continued  his  observa-     chap. 

XIII 

tions  from  the  neighbouring  high  ground. 


Our  undivided  efforts  were  now  given  to  the  ex-  Difficulty 
trication  of  our  steamer,  which  we  saw  could  only  aflS;.  ^ 
be  accomplished  either  by  manual  labour  or  by  the 
flooding  of  the  river.  For  the  latter  we  should  have  had 
to  wait ;  we  consequently  adopted  the  more  laborious 
but  immediate  course.  More  than  a  hundred  Arabs 
were  employed  in  digging  out  the  steamer,  and,  as 
soon  as  this  was  all  but  effected,  we  endeavoured  to 
swing  her  round  by  means  of  pulleys  and  chain-cables. 
Many  alternations  of  hope  and  anxiety  attended  our 
efforts  during  periods  of  storm,  heavy  rain,  and  fine 
weather,  accompanied  by  rapid  flooding  of  the  river  at 
one  time,  and  by  its  formidably  swollen  waters  at 
another,  which  at  times  floated  the  steamer,  and 
swirled  her  round  so  rapidly  and  so  violently  as  to 
break  her  chain-cable.  This  happened  three  times  at 
least.  On  one  of  these  occasions,  which  took  place  on 
April  2,  the  vessel,  being  at  that  moment  afloat,  was 
suddenly  swirled  round  with  such  impetus  that  the 
cable  was  snapped  in  the  middle,  and  in  spite  of  all 
our  exertions  she  was  again  forced  up  the  side  of  the 
bank  and  almost  out  of  the  water.  Fortunately  a  new 
hawser  had  lately  come  from  the  '  Columbine,'  and 
we  redoubled  our  exertions,  that  we  might  be  in  a 
position  to  make  use  of  it.  About  a  hundred  Arabs 
were  again  employed,  in  addition  to  our  own  people,  to 
remove  the  bank  of  pebbles,  in  which  the  recent 
flood  had  literally  imbedded  our  steamer  more  firmly 
than  before. 

This  state  of  things  continued  for  a  fortnight,  when 


234  NARRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     our  happiness  on  finding  that  the  increased  depth  of 
* — t-^  water  had  quietly  floated  us,  was  sadly  damped  by  a 


The  raft  very  Unexpected  misfortune.  Mr.  Fitzjaraes  had  been 
merged,  paying  US  a  visit  as  his  raft  passed  downwards  towards 
Kara  Bambiige,  a  little  short  of  which  place  she  got 
upon  the  shoal,  and  he  found  her  full  of  water,  and  all 
her  provisions  floating  about.  The  river  rose  so  much 
during  the  evening  of  the  17th  as  to  sweep  her  off 
the  shoal  and  enable  him  to  bring  her  up  under  the 
chalk  bank.  His  account  of  her  ultimate  fate  shall  be 
given  in  his  own  words  : — 

'  The  river  here '  (at  Kara  Bambiige)  '  makes  an 
abrupt  turn  to  the  right,  the  current  setting  along  lofty 
chalk  cliffs  into  a  deep  bay,  terminating  at  a  rocky  point 
from  which  the  current  sets  to  the  opposite  shore  at 
another  rocky  and  perpendicular  cliff.  Here  the  river 
is  about  400  yards  broad,  and  the  remains  on  each 
side  seem  to  show  that  a  bridge  at  one  time  stood  here. 
At  the  first  point  all  our  efforts  to  get  the  flat-bottomed 
boat  off  being  unavaihng,  we  stood  forward  and  endea- 
voured to  place  bags  of  cotton  between  her  and  the 
rocks,  as  she  swept  along  them  at  the  rate  of  seven 
knots.  But  with  one  crash,  she  sent  her  whole  bow 
up,  and  down  she  went  head-foremost  in  seven  fathoms 
water,  leaving  barely  time,  by  means  of  the  cotton  bags 
in  the  first  instance,  and  eventually  by  the  boats,  to 
save  ourselves.  We  saved,  however,  two  casks  of  pro- 
visions, but  my  clothes  were  lost,  and,  what  was  still 
more  serious,  fifteen  tons  of  coals  for  our  voyage — 
the  mooring-chains  —  also  a  number  of  rings,  the 
jumpers,  and  some  fireanns  also.' 

Mr.  Fitzjames  landed  about  five  miles  lower  down. 


PASSAGE  OF  KARA   BAMBUGE.  235 

and  walked  up  to  join  ua  with  the  unwelcome  intelli-    chap. 

geuce  of  the  loss  of  the  coal-raft,  which  was  a  serioua  . ,— I— 

one  to  the  Expedition.  We  were  just  entering  the 
passage  wliere  this  accident  had  happened.  The  stream  Bend  &t 
is  somewhat  rapid  at  this  spot,  where  it  is  shut  in  Bi^b%fl. 
between  the  fine  white  cliffs,  already  described,  rising 
to  the  height  of  150  feet  on  both  sides ;  but  its  depth, 
and  width  of  400  yards,  made  it  perfectly  easy  for  a 
steamer,  with  the  exception  of  one  abrupt  angle  at  the 
termiuation  of  the  passage,  where  any  failure  of  the 


rudder  might  have  caused  this  bend  to  be  as  fatal  to 

us  as  it  had  been  to  theraft.    We,  however,  were  well 

prepared  for  the  difficulty,  and  passed  through  it  safely 

at  half-speed,  bringing  up  near  the  ruins  of  the  castle 

of  Kara  BambiJge,  wheie  we  were  joined  by  the  '  Tigris,'  joined  by 

as  well  as  the  diving-betl  and  the  pontoon-rafts.     I 

arranged  that  these  should  remain  here  for  the  moment, 

in  the  hope  of  recovering  some  of  the  cargo  of  the 

wrecked  raft,  while  we  steamed  the  remaining  nineteen 


'  TigpJB.' 


236  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    miles  to  Beles  on  April  19.     The  'Tigris,'  with  the 
flats  and  rafts,  which  we  found  very  useful  in  supply- 


^!^  ^  ing  the  wants  of  the  steamers,  and  keeping  up  commu- 
nication between  them,  shortly  joined  us  at  this  place. 
With  the  exception  of  the  trying  delay  above  Kara 
Bambuge,  and  the  loss  of  our  coals,  everything  had 
hitherto  gone  on  well.  Constant  communication  with 
Port  WilUam  had  been  kept  up  by  means  of  our 
horses,  wliich  from  time  to  time  brought  us  coals, 
provisions,  spare  cables,  and  even  money,  with  perfect 
safety.  Our  friendly  relations  with  the  Arabs  had 
been  uninterrupted,  save  by  the  temporary  misunder- 
standuig  about  Sheikh  Hassan ;  and  Captain  Estcourt's 
survey,  and  Lieutenant  Murphy's  astronomical  points, 
had  been  carried  thus  far  most  satisfactorily.  The 
ruined  and  interesting  city  of  Beles  became,  as  it  were, 

101  miles  a  frcsli  poiut  of  departure  for  us — 101  miles  had  been 
carefully  surveyed  to  this,  the  nearest  point  to  Aleppo, 
the  ancient  port,  in  fact,  of  that  city — and  the  place 
which,  in  our  sanguine  expectations  of  the  speedy  es- 
tablishment of  the  Euphrates  Line  to  India,  we  had 
already  fixed  upon  as  its  modern  emporium  of  com- 
merce. It  had  been  arranged,  therefore,  that  the 
steamers  should  make  some  short  stay  at  Beles,  and  that 
they  should  be  met  there  by  some  of  the  principal 
merchants  of  Aleppo,  who  were  anxious  to  give  us  this 
proof  of  their  appreciation  of  the  benefits  they  antici- 
pated from  our  enterprise.  Our  vessels  also  required 
painting  and  some  adjustment  of  their  fitments,  while 
we  were  also  anxious  to  carry  out  some  experimental 
trials  of  their  speed  and  powers,  for  which  this  part  of 
the  river  was  very  favourable. 


! 


ii 


THE   ANIZA   ARABS.  237 

A  great  change  had  taken  place  in  Beles  and  its  chap. 
neighbourhood  since  it  had  been  visited  by  our  survey-  ^ — r— ^ 
ing  parties  a  short  time  previous  to  our  arrival.  It 
was  at  that  time  quite  deserted  : — now  we  found  more 
than  a  thousand  tents  of  the  redoubted  Aniza  tribe  Campof 
pitched  in  the  centre  of  the  rich  pasture-lands  by  which 
it  is  surrounded,  while  another  formidable  tribe,  the 
Beni  Said,  were  encamped  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  These  circumstances  did  not  cause  us  to  make 
any  change  in  our  plans,  and  on  April  20  we  com- 
menced clearing  the  vessels  for  painting.  Thunder- 
storms and  heavy  rain  prevented  us  from  doing  much 
before  the  24th,  when  the  proceedings  of  the  Arabs 
attracted  our  anxious  attention.  Our  confidence  in 
them,  which  had  hitherto  been  unshaken,  was  now 
somewhat  staggered     Corporal  Greenhill,  of  the  Sap-  Corporal 

.  Greenhill 

pers,  wliile  employed  in  planting  a  station-flag  in  robbed, 
the  vicinity,  was  suddenly  seized  by  three  mounted 
Arabs,  who  jumped  from  their  horses,  put  their  lances 
to  his  throat,  and  proceeded  to  cut  oflf  his  brass  coat- 
buttons,  which  they  no  doubt  took  for  gold.  Having 
obtained  the  coveted  booty,  they  released  the  Corporal, 
and  hastened  away  lest  they  should  be  seen  from  the 
steamer.  Such  conduct  could  not  be  left  unchecked^ 
and  Captain  Estcourt,  Lieutenant  Cleaveland,  Mr. 
Fitzjames,  and  fourteen  men  moved  up  the  adjoining 
ravine,  where  they  encountered  a  strong  party  of  the 
Aniza,  apparently  preparing  to  retreat,  although  this 
was  evidently  only  a  feint ;  for  the  Arabs,  who  were 
mounted  on  horses  and  dromedaries,  endeavoured  to 
intercept  our  party,  and  would  probably  have  suc- 
ceeded in  doing  so,  had  not  Captain  Estcourt  at  once 


238  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  perceived  their  purpose,  and  with  admirable  presence 
• — ^-1-  of  mind,  made  a  rapid  demonstration  in  light  infantry 
order,  v^hich  checked  them,  and  gave  his  own  party 
time  to  reach  some  gromid,  rather  difficult  of  access, 
and  within  range  of  the  steamer's  guns  and  rockets. 
This  affair,  which  had  threatened  to  be  serious,  ended 
without  anything  more  than  an  accident  to  Mr.  Fitz- 
james,  who,  in  his  extreme  zeal,  broke  his  ankle  in 
leaping  from  a  height  The  Aniza,  however,  kept  us 
all  on  the  alert ;  for  as  they  chose  to  remain  at  a  short 
distance  from  us,  we  were  obliged  to  keep  a  party  on 
the  elevated  ground  close  by  to  watch  their  movements. 
Command-       The  proximity  of  this  commanding  ground  to  the 

ing  (ground     ,  j  .  . 

at  Bdes.  stcamcr  caused  some  uneasmess  among  our  men.  As 
soon  as  I  became  aware  of  this  feeling,  I  endeavoured 
to  show  them,  practically,  that  the  disadvantage  caused 
by  moderately  elevated  ground  is  not  by  any  means  so 
great  as  is  generally  imagined.  I  sent  Sergeant-major 
Quin  to  such  a  position  behind  the  crest  of  the  hill  as 
he  would  naturally  have  occupied,  to  enable  him  to  fire 
down  on  our  decks,  when  every  one  on  board  at  once 
perceived  that  he  could  not  effect  this  without  exposing 
his  head  and  shoulders  quite  as  much  as  those  of  a 
man  firing  at  him  over  our  own  bulwarks  would  have 
been,  which  fact  may  be  exemplified  by  supposing  a 
line  to  be  drawn  from  the  crest  of  the  hill  in  question 
to  the  top  of  our  bulwarks ;  or  by  a  line  fix>m  the 
cavaher  of  a  fortress  to  the  crest  of  a  besieger's  battery, 
which,  although  a  good  deal  lower,  is  not  subject  to 
any  prejudicial  command.  Nor  was  there,  in  reality, 
any  serious  disadvantage  in  this  respect  at  Beles,  since 
our  steamers  had  ample  means  of  repeUing  any  attack 


VISIT  FROM   THE  ANIZA  SH£IKHS.  239 

that  could  have  been  made ;  but  our  great  object  was     chap. 
to  avert  any  threatened  hostilities  on  the  part  of  the 


Arabs,   and   to  establish  friendly  relations,   based,  if 
possible,  on  a  formal  treaty  of  peace. 

With  this  end  in  view  we  endeavoured  at  once  to  open 
amicable  communications  with  them,  proposing  to 
follow  these  up  by  inviting  the  principal  Sheikhs  to 
visit  us,  and  to  take  advantage  of  this  intercourse 
to  impress  them  by  a  display  of  our  power.  We 
opened  negotiations  through  Mr.  Bassam,  who,  finding 
the  Arabs  well-disposed,  spent  two  or  three  days  in 
their  camp,  accompanied  by  Mr,  Elliot.  His  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  Arab  character  gave  him  great 
advantages,  and  he  stimulated  their  curiosity  to  see  our 
wonderful  steamships,  feeUng  sure  that  their  astonish- 
ment would  effect  all  that  we  wished.  On  the  28th, 
Mr.  EUiot  (himself  half  an  Arab)  returned  to  us  ac- 
companied by  three  Aniza  chiefs  with  eight  attendants, 
who  were  at  once  accommodated  with  a  tent  which  we 
had  prepared  for  them  on  shore.  We  purposely  post-  Display  of 
poned  their  visit  to  the  vessels  until  the  next  day,  in  "* 
order  to  treat  them,  after  dark,  to  a  discharge  of 
Congreve  and  Whale  rockets  along  the  surface  of  the 
river,  which,  owing  to  its  width  at  this  place,  was 
particularly  favourable  to  a  grand  display  of  the 
rushing  power  and  increasing  speed  of  these  fiery 
missiles.  This  exhibition  overcame  our  guests  com- 
pletely, and  impressed  them  with  a  feeling  of  helpless 
inferiority.  The  rockets  occupied  them  till  supper- 
time,  and  on  setting  food  before  them,  with  spoons  and 
forks,  they  said, '  God  supplies  us  with  fingers — ^why  do 
you  give  us  metal  hands  ? ' 


240  NARRATIVE   OP  TUE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.  On  the  following  morning  their  wonder  and  admira- 
'^ — r-^  tion  were  increased  on  their  being  shown  every  part  of 
both  vessels,  and  these  feelings  reached  their  climax, 
when  returning  on  deck,  after  the  bewildering  sight  of 
the  engines,  they  were  treated  to  some  discharges  of 
canister  from  the  9-pounders,  as  well  as  from  some  of 
our  smaller  brass  guns,  which  produced  such  an  effect 
on  the  surface  of  the  noble  river  as  would  have  been 
very  striking  even  to  those  well  acquainted  with  the 
effects  of  artillery,  while  to  the  Arabs  it  suggested  the 
utter  impossibility  of  any  attempt  to  resist  such  tre- 
mendous power.  The  result  of  this  exhibition  was  all 
that  we  could  have  wished.  The  Aniza  chiefe  them- 
selves proposed  to  render  our  present  good  understand- 
ing permanent  by  means  of  a  treaty,  ^nd  consented  to 
go  into  the  necessary  details  forthwith.  A  formal 
Treaty  meeting  for  this  purpose  therefore  took  place  between 
Aniza.  US  in  the  evening,  and  a  treaty  of  amity  and  permanent 
peace  between  the  government  of  King  William  IV.  and 
the  important  Arab  tribe  of  the  Aniza  was  discussed 
and  finally  agreed  upon,  its  basis  being  the  establish- 
ment and  maintenance  of  commercial  facilities  on 
friendly  terms.* 

Their  chief  (Jedaan)  was  much  pleased,  and  repeated 
to  rae  constantly,  '  We  are  friends  to  the  English ;  I 
have  made  you  my  father,  you  must  take  care  of  me.' 
The  favourable  disposition  of  our  guests  towards  us 
induced  us  to  go  a  step  further,  and  to  press  them  to 
give  up  their  long-cherished  hostility  towards  the 
Shamar,  an  almost  equally  powerful  Arab  tribe.     At 

*  This  document;  no  doubt,  still  exists  in  the  archives  of  the  Foreign 
Office. 


TBIAL  OF  THS  STEAMERS.  241 

first  there  did  not  seem  to  be  the  smallest  prospect  of    chap. 
success,  for  my  well-meant  efforts  were  met  by  the  ^  ^^  , 
Aniza  Sheikh  with  the  curt  and  apparently  conclusive 
reply,  '  That  they  were  bom  to  be  enemies,  and  must 
continue  to  be  so.'     A  long  discussion  followed,  with 
very  little  effect,  until  I  remembered  the  existence  of  a 
passage  in  the  Koran  inculcating  peace  and  goodwill,  !**«•  ^  • 
which  Bassam  was  able  to  repeat  to  them   in  pure  AnuAand 
Arabic — ^which  carried  our  point,  and  peace  was  agreed 
upon  by  the  Aniza  and  Shamar  tribes,  and  cemented  by 
a  marriage,  for  which  I  at  otice  provided  a  limited 
dotation  on  the  part  of  the  British  Government.     We 
thought  it  better  to  let  the  Aniza  chiefs  depart  without 
presents,   which,  under  existing  circumstances,  might 
have  lessened  the  high  position  which  we  had  so  care- 
fully maintained. 

Our  friendly  relations  with  the  Arabs  thus  happily 
restored,  our  ordinary  operations  were  resumed,  with 
renewed  confidence  and  satisfaction,  on  May  2.  We 
lightened  the  *  Tigris '  in  order  to  make  trial  of  her  speed 
and  power,  which  were  both  satisfactory,  although  in 
neither  case  was  she  equal  to  her  consort  the  'Euphrates,' 
which  stemmed  the  current  in  the  most  satisfactory 
manner  on  the  following  day.  During  our  stay  at 
Beles  we  had  had  the  pleasure  of  a  visit  from  Lieu- 
tenants Crawford  and  Henderson,of  the  Royal  Artillery,* 
from  Aleppo.  They  now  left  us,  taking  with  them 
two  of  our  engineers,  Hurst  and  Clegg,  and  the 
carpenters,  Jackson  and  Watt,  who  had  all  rendered 
such  important  services  that  their  departure  was  felt  to 
be  a  most  serious  loss :  but  their  time  had  expired, 

*  Each  has  now  the  rank  of  Major-General. 

R 


Castle. 


242  NABRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHEATBS  BXPEDFTION. 

CHAP,    as  had  also  that  of  a  very  valued  visitor,  Mr.  William 

XIII  . 

^ — r-^  Estcourt,  who  had  joined  the  expedition  at  Bir,  and 
remained  with  his  brother,  sharing  in  his  and  our  occu- 
pations  up  to  the  time  of  our  halt  at  Beles.  .He  too 
now  left  us,  carrying  with  him  the  sincerest  good  wishes 
of  our  whole  party. 
•  TigriB'  Everything  was  now  ready  for  the  prosecution  of  our 

to  Ja'ber  dcsccnt,  and  the  *  Tigris '  steamed  down  the  river  (on 
May  4)  to  Ja'ber  Castle,  the  '  Euphrates '  preparing  to 
follow,  on  the  arrival  of  a  supply  of  provisions  firom 
Aleppo,  on  the  6th,  Passing  the  minareh,  and  the 
three  remaining  towers  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Beles,* 
she  followed  the  tortuous  course  of  the  river,  between 
low  banks  clothed  with  tamarisk  and  forest  trees,  in- 
habited, at  this  season  of  the  year,  by  thousands  of 
Arabs.  We  brought  up  close  to  the  Tigris,  a  little  way 
below  Ja'ber.  A  drawing  by  Major  Estcourt  gives  a 
most  faithful  representation  of  the  so-called  Giant's 
Castle,  and  its  lofty  minareh,  with  Tell  Marabbou  (the 
Saint's  Hill)  in  the  background.  Tradition,  as  given  to 
us  by  the  neighbouring  tribe  the  Weldah,  ascribes 
these  works  to  Alexander  the  Great,  who  crossed  the 
Euphrates  at  the  adjacent  passage  at  Thapsacus.  But 
another  account  states  that  the  castle  was  constructed 
by  an  Eastern  conqueror  named  Ja'ber,  to  support  his 
invasion  of  Egypt.  Its  position  would  no  doubt  have 
given  it  great  importance  in  early,  and  even  in  later 
times,  when  it,  as  well  as  many  other  strongholds,  was . 
besieged  and  eventually  taken  by  Nur-ed-din.  Up  to 
the  time  of  Benjamin  of  Tudelaf  it  was  a  very  im- 

•  Plate  L.  p.  213,  vol.  ii.,  '  Expedition  to^Euplirates  and  Tigris.' 
t  Sela  Midbamh,  vol.  i.  p.  80  of  *  Benjamin  of  Tudela,'  by  Asher. 


. 


THAPSACUS  AND  BUINS  OP  SUSA.  243 

portant  place.     It  reminded  us  strongly  of  the  citadel    chap. 

XII I 

of  Aleppo,  although  it  is  something  loftier,  and  rather  ^ — r-^ 


more  extensive. 

Two  hours'  steaming,  between  banks  richly  wooded 
with  tamarisk,  allspice,  and  jasmine,  brought  us  to 
El-Edhen,  near  which  place  the  stream  is  separated  by 
some  islands  into  three  branches,  one  of  which  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  *  Tigris,'  while  the '  Euphrates'  took  a  diffe- 
rent course,  under  the  impression  that  we  should  find  it 
a  more  fevourable  one  for  her ;  but  she  ran  aground,  and 
we  had  to  recall  the  '  Tigris '  to  give  us  assistance — and 
thus  both  vessels  were  delayed,  just  as  we  were  ap- 
proaching some  places  of  deep  interest.  We  had  to 
empty  the  boilers  to  lighten  the  vessel,  and  thus  got  her 
afloat  ^ain  the  next  morning,  when  all  hands  were 
occupied  cutting  wood  for  the  subsequent  part  of  our 
voyage. 

We  resumed  the  descent  on  the  9th,  keeping  one  of  Ruined 
the  boats  ahead,  to  facilitate  our  examination  of  the  ju^a. 
river,  and  give  notice  of  any  obstruction.  In  this  way 
we  carefully  examined  the  banks  on  either  side  of  the 
memorable  passage  of  Thapsacus  (now  Hamman),  and 
also  the  extensive  ruins  of  ancient  Susa,  and  other  sites 
of  interest  which  we  visited  during  our  thirteen  miles' 
steaming  to  Bacca,  where  we  brought  up,  notwith- 
standing its  low  and  swampy  situation,  which  on  the 
score  of  health  was  very  undesirable.  It  is,  however, 
a  place  of  some  celebrity  in  Moslem  history,  although 
our  researches  next  morning  were  scarcely  repaid  by 
the  discovery  of  a  spacious  cistern,  the  remains  of  a 
mosque,  the  ruins  of  Haroun-el-Raschid's  palace,  and 
the  extensive  walls  which  once  surrounded  this  city  of 

R   2 


244 


NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
XIII. 


ArrivHl  at 
Amram. 


Barter 
ii-ith  the 
Arabs. 


the  Khaliph  El-Mansoiir,  whose  name  has  been  de- 
sen^edly  handed  down  to  us  in  connection  with  astro- 
nomical observations,  and  with  his  promotion  of  the 
science  of  astronomy  itself  by  the  measurement  of  a 
grand  base-line  on  the  plain  near  this  city. 

The  astronomical  position  of  Bacca  having  been  fixed 
by  Lieutenant  Murphy,  we  steamed  eleven  miles  farther 
down  the  river  to  Amram,  which  is  situated  on  its  left 
bank,  about  halfway  through  the  forest  of  the  same 
name.  On  tlie  riglit  bank  is  an  elevated  plain  bounded 
by  a  range  of  chalk  hills.  Here  we  again  met  some  of 
the  friendly  Weldali  Arabs,  but,  to  our  surprise,  they 
scampered  away  from  their  tents  in  the  wildest  manner, 
owing,  as  we  soon  learnt,  to  an  alarm  caused  by  the 
Effadees,  who  had  crossed  the  river  on  skins  to  seize 
their  bullocks,  as  they  thought,  at  our  instigation. 

An  assurance  of  friendship  was  quickly  given  by 
Bassam,  *  on  his  head  and  beard,'  which  solemn  invoca- 
tion induced  them  to  return  ;  and  we  followed  it  up  by 
offering  them  bread  in  token  of  friendship,  in  which 
spirit  they  received  it,  and  ate  it  with  evident  relish 
and  confidence.  Eather  more  than  a  hundred  of  this 
tribe  were  present  on  this  occasion,  and  these,  having 
secured  the  alliance  of  the  powerfiil  strangers,  uttered 
shouts  of  defiance  against  the  Effadees,  who  were  look- 
ing on  from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river. 

We  thouglit  this  a  favourable  opportunity  for  produc- 
ing some  of  the  goods,  which  we  had  brought  out 
for  the  purpose  of  opening  a  trade  by  barter,  but  our 
negotiations  were  inten-upted  by  the  ludicrous  circum- 
stance of  one  of  our  guns  being  accidentally  turned 
towjirds  the  Arabs.     The  moment  they  perceived  this, 


.  ^ 


I 


I     t 


FOSEST  OF  AMBAM.  245 

all  bartering;  was  at  an  end,  and  in  less  than  five     chap. 

XIII. 

minutes  all  had  fled.  The  Sheikh  afterwards  returned  *- — r-^ 
alone  to  ask  why  we  desired  to  hurt  them,  since  they 
were  quite  ready  to  be  submissive,  and  to  give  us  wood 
or  anything  else  they  possessed  ;  and  thus  a  good  un- 
derstanding was  re-established,  and  barter  at  once 
resumed  with  the  greatest  avidity  by  the  Weldahs,  and 
their  example  would  have  been  eagerly  followed  by 
their  enemies  the  Efiadees,  had  it  been  practicable. 

The  facilities  for  laying  in  a  store  of  wood  induced  Wood- 

cutting  on 

us  to  remain  another  day  at  Amram,  and  to  send  shoro. 
parties  on  shore  to  cut  it ;  and  our  men,  while  so  em- 
ployed, found  themselves,  although  close  to  the  vessels, 
in  a  singularly  isolated  position ;  for  so  dense  and  tangled 
was  the  undergrowth  of  the  forest  that,  although  guided 
by  the  sounds  of  numerous  hatchets  and  billhooks, 
some  of  the  party  were  almost  unable  to  find  their  way 
from  one  steamer  to  the  other — a  distance  scarcely 
over  a  hundred  yards. 

Whilst  all  hands  were  busy  cutting  and  stowing 
away  on  board  as  much  wood  as  possible,  Mr.  Aius- 
worth  and  I  made  a  walking  excursion  to  some  ruins 
in  the  neighbourhood.     We  had  not  proceeded  far 
before   eight  Arabs,   each  armed    with  a    long  gun 
in   addition   to   their   spears,  favoured  us  with   their 
company.     Thinking  this  suspicious,  we  took  the  pre-  Threat- 
caution  of  separating  from  each  other — Ainsworth,  with  attack. 
his  usual  coolness,  keeping  at  such  a  distance  as  would 
enable  us  to  give  each  other  mutual  support.     Moving  capeiia. 
on  thus   cautiously,   I  suddenly  saw  an  unexpected 
enemy  close  to  us — a  cobra-capella  just  rising  on  his 
tail,  and  ready  to  dart  his  fangs  into  my  companion,  iu 


246  NARBATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  which  no  doubt  he  must  have  succeeded,  had  not  one  of 

XIII 

>-   ,  -^  the  Arabs,  with  admirable  dexterity,  struck  the  point  of 


his  spear  through  the  creature's  head.  This  feat  effected 
a  double  purpose.  It  freed  us  from  the  cobra,*  and 
led  to  a  friendly  understanding  with  the  Arab,  who, 
pleased  with  himself,  was  ready  to  meet  our  advances ; 
and,  mutual  confidence  being  thus  established,  we  went 
on  to  their  tents,  which  were  in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  recrossing  the  river  to  our  steamer,  we  heard 
that  the  day's  work  had  been  most  satisfactory,  and 
the  descent  was  therefore  resumed  next  day,  the  flat- 
boats  preceding  the  two  steamers  as  usual — ^'Tigris* 
leading  the  way.  The  river  was  deep  and  fitvourable 
to  us,  its  width  varying  from  250  to  300  yards.  On 
The  the  right  bank  we  had  a  continuation  of  the  elevated 

Hteainert 

dwicend      plain  already  mentioned,  terminating  in  a  range  of 
thefurest.   hills,   whilst  ou   the  left  was    the  luxuriant   forest, 
tenanted  by  innumerable  nightingales. 

After  steaming  about  45  miles,  we  stopped  under 

the  left  bank,  where  we  met  the  large  tribe  of  Affadell 

Arabs,  fully   2,000  strong,  who  crowded  the  river's 

TheAflfR-    banks  at  first,  but  retired   as  we  came   near.     On 

dell  Arabs.  .    .  «  ,  «•  /•  •        i  i  - 

receivmg  from  us  reiterated  assurances  of  friendship, 
they  took  courage  and  returned,  and  came  quite  close 
to  the  vessels.  They  were  all  armed  with  very  short 
muskets  and  spears,  and  had  also  short  swords  :  they 
made  an  urgent  but  of  course  ineffectual  appeal  to  us, 
for  assistance  against  tlieir  enemies  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  Having  obtained  another  good 
supply  of  wood,   we   steamed  rapidly  towards  what 

*  Tho  skin  of  this  rcptilti  may  be  seen  in  the  Zoological  Society's  col- 
lection. 


ZELBfil,  THB  CITT  OF  Z£NOBU.  247 

would  have  appeared  to  be  a  mountain  barrier,  if  it  chap. 
had  not  been  evident  that  the  boats  had  found  a  * — .-^^ 
passage  through  it,  which  we  followed,  our  wonder 
increasing  as  we  advanced.  It  seemed  as  if  we  had 
entered  one  of  Nature's  grandest  works.  On  each 
side  of  the  river,  perpendicular  cliffs  rise  to  a  height 
varying  from  300  to  500  feet ;  the  Euphrates  has  here, 
for  the  third  time  *  during  its  course  from  Bir  to  the 
ocean,  found  its  way  through  a  mountain  barrier, 
and  had  brought  us  to  the  so-called  'beetle-browed' 
precipice  of  Balbi.f 

Our  descent  was  continued  from  hence,  with  httle 
variation  in  the  scenery,  for  about  five  miles,  when  we 
brought  up  at  the  remains  of  Halebi,  and  opposite  to  Haiebi  and 
those  of  Zelebi.  The  latter  were  once  the  summer 
residence  of  Zenobia ;  and  the  ruins  present  the  form 
of  an  acute  triangle,  having  its  base  resting  on  the 
river,  whilst  its  sides  climb  the  accUvity  of  a  conical 
hill,  and  terminate  at  its  summit  in  a  small  acropohs. 
It  was  defended  by  walls  flanked  by  strong  towers, 
which,  as  well  as  the  pubhc  and  private  buildings, 
were  all  constructed  of  fine  gypsmn  (which  abounds 
along  the  Euphrates),  and  are  as  sharp  and  fresh  as 
if  they  had  been  recently  built.  J 

While  we  were  examining  these  most  interesting 
ruins,  a  sye  (messenger)  brought  from  Aleppo  the 
Government  despatches  of   April  1.      Our    previous 

*  The  other  two  instances  are  at  the  Whirlpool  of  Gourlou  (p.  227), 
and  at  Kara  Bambuge  (p.  235). 

t  Voyage  of  Gasparo  Balbi. 

X  A  fuller  description  of  the  ruins  of  the  city  of  Zenobia,  including  its 
extensive  necropolis,  temple,  and  palace,  will  be  found  in  the  *  Expedition 
to  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris '  (vol.  ii.  pp.  417, 418). 


d 


248  NARBATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  letters  had  all  been  enoouraging.  But  I  now  learnt, 
' — f^  from  Sir  John  Hobhouse,  that,  owing  to  the  heavy  ex- 
penditure, it  was  decided  to  break  up  the  Expedition 
on  July  31.  We  were  totally  unprepared  for  such 
intelligence — for  such  a  blow,  in  fact;  but  feeling 
that  it  would  be  useless,  and  very  discouraging,  at  a 
moment  when  all  was  prospering,  to  promulgate  this 
unlooked-for  decision  of  the  Home  Government,  I 
thought  it  best  to  keep  it  to  myself,  and  to  continue 
the  service  with,  if  possible,  such  increased  exertions, 
as  might,  by  their  success,  secure  not  only  the  support 
of  the  country,  but  the  approbation  of  His  Majesty's 
Government  also.  I  made  these  expectations  known 
to  the  President  of  the  Board  of  Control,  and  then 
hastened  our  departure  as  much  as  possible. 


249 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

DX8CEKT  COlfTINUED   FROM  ZBLEBI  TO    I8-0ERIA — LOSS  OF  THE 
'HOBIS'   STEAMER — PROSECUTION   OF  THE   DESCENT. 

Looking  back  upon  the  mountain  barrier  through  chap. 

.  XIV. 

which  we  had  been  safely  guided  by  our  careful  helms-  ' — r-^ 


man  and  skilful  officers  after  leaving  Zelebi,  it  seemed 
as  impassable,  and  as  completely  closed,  as  it  had 
appeared  to  us  when  approaching  it  from  the  western 
side.  The  range  of  hills  which  is  thus  pierced  by  the 
river,  comes  from  the  heart  of  Arabia ;  and  having 
nearly  touched  Palmyra,  it  runs  in  the  direction 
of  Zelebi,  and  extends  again  beyond  the  Euphrates 
almost  the  whole  way  across  Mesopotamia.  Leaving 
this  singular  passage  behind  us,  4]^  hours'  steaming  Amreat 
brought  vis  within  sight  of  Deir.  The  river  in  this  ^^^' 
part  of  its  course  is  wide  and  deep,  but  very  winding. 
Deir,  although  consisting  chiefly  of  mud-built 
dwellings,  is  a  very  pretty  Uttle  place,  and  contains 
about  a  thousand  of  these  houses,  which  are  all  square 
and  flat-roofed,  and  placed  on  a  conical  hill  rising 
from  the  right  bank  of  the  Euphrates,  from  which  it  is 
insulated  by  a  canal  cut  from  one  part  of  the  river  to 
another  along  the  south  side  of  the  town.  We  were 
afraid  that  this  canal  would  not  afford  sufficient  depth 
of  water  for  our  larger  steamer  ;  the  '  Tigris '  therefore 
preceded  us  to  ascertain  this  fact,  but  finding  that  all  was 


250  NAKRATIVB  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     right,  the '  Euphrates '  followed  her  to  the  town  of  Deir, 


XIV. 


where  a  salute  was  fired,  and  the  ensigns  of  Turkey  and 
Great  Britain  displayed.  We  found  Deir  admirably 
suited  for  a  permanent  station,  and  made  arrangements 
at  once,  therefore,  for  the  establishment  of  depots  of 
coal,  timber,  charcoal,  and  stores  at  this  place.  I  also 
despatched  a  messenger  from  hence  with  a  map  of  the 
river  as  far  as  Deir,  for  the  satisfaction  of  the  President 
of  the  Board  of  Control,  and  then  resumed  the  descent 
on  May  18. 

We  steamed,  under  the  most  favourable  circum- 
stances, to  the  mouth  of  the  Khdbiir,  which,  as  the 

River         Araxes  of  Xenophon,  possessed  especial  interest  for  ua. 

Arie^  ^'  In  tlie  angle  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  KhAbiir  and 
Euphrates,  and  near  the  right  bank  of  the  former  river, 
we  traced  the  ruins  known  among  the  Arabs  as  Abu- 
Serai,  once  Kerkisyah,  and  the  supposed  Carchemish 
of  Scripture.*  On  the  opposite  bank  are  the  remains 
of  Calneh,f  probably  the  Calanne  of  Nimriid;  and 
between  these  two  sites  are  the  ruined  abutments  of 
the  bridge  by  which  the  army  of  Trajan,  in  all  pro- 
bability, crossed  the  river  when  on  its  march  to  Lower 
Mesopotamia.  We  ascended  the  Elidbur,  in  the  smaller 
steamer,  as  far  as  was  practicable,  but  found  the  water 
fail  much  sooner  than  was  at  all  to  have  been  expected, 
taking  into  account  the  length  of  the  river's  course  from 
the  vicinity  of  Nisibin.  Much  disappointed,  we  had 
to  return,  putting  about  somewhere  near  the  spot 
where  Xenophon  must  have  crossed  in  his  downward 
march.  We  anchored  alongside  our  consort  late  in  the 
evening,  and  pursued  our  course  next  morning  as  far 

*  Isaiaby  x.  9.  t  Genesis,  x,  10. 


DESCENT  TO  COBSOTE.  251 

as  the  town  of  Ma'den,  where  our  steamers  again  dis-     chap. 

played  the  British  and  Turkish  ensigns,  to  the  great  ^ ,-1-' 

delight  of  the  inhabitants. 

Our  short  halt  at  this  place  was  full  of  interest  to  us. 
A  walk  of  five  miles  towards  the  south  brought  us  to 
the  extensive  castle  of  Eahabah,  the  Eehoboth  of  the  Bahabah 
Ammonites.*  It  stands  on  the  crest  of  an  isolated  hill,  ^©both. 
and  its  remains  are  remarkably  fine  and  massive. 
Ketuming  to  our  steamer  we  resumed  the  descent,  the 
river  carrying,  as  it  had  done  lately,  a  mass  of  water, 
by  a  winding  course  as  far  as  Salahyah,  where,  in 
addition  to  remains  of  ancient  walls,  there  is  a  fine 
gateway,  and  an  extensive  castle.  Here  we  pur- 
chased, as  rapidly  as  possible,  a  supply  of  wood,  and 
hurried  off,  intending  to  bring  up  for  the  night  at  Anna, 
little  anticipating  the  fatal  results  of  our  speed  and 
activity. 

The  weather  had  been  very  fine  and  promising 
during  the  forenoon,  but  a  change  took  place  soon  after  Com- 
we  left  Salahyah,  and  the  atmosphere  became  thick  of  storm. 
and  gloomy — ^but  not  more  so  than  had  been  the 
case  occasionally  of  late,  especially  on  the  preceding 
evening — and  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage  without  the 
slightest  imeasiness  being  felt  by  any  of  our  party.  At 
1.35  P.M.  on  May  21,  both  steamers  left  the  bank  with 
the  full  expectation  of  reaching  Anna  that  afternoon ; 
but  only  twenty  minutes  later,  just  as  we  were  rounding 
the  bold  chalk  diffs  on  which  stand  the  prominent 
ruins  of  Corsote,  an  ominous  change  took  place  in 
the  weather.  Clouds,  much  more  threatening  than 
any  we  had  yet  seen,  appeared  and  spread  rapidly, 

*  Qeneais;  xxxvi.  37,  '  Saul  of  Rehoboth.' 


i 


CHAP. 

XIV. 


252  NABRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPSDITIOy. 

accompanied,  as  Mr.  Ainsworth  remarked,  by  a  po 
tentx>us  fall  of  the  barometer.  Still  we  did  not  feel  at 
particular  alarm,  believing  that  the  storm  would  pa 
by,  as  it  had  done  of  late  on  previous  occasions.  Bi 
we  soon  found  that  this  was  not  to  be  the  case  now. 

In  tlie  course  of  a  few  minutes,  dense  masses  of  blac 
clouds,  streaked  with  orange,  red,  and  yellow,  appeare 
coming  up  from  the  WSW.,  and  approaching  us  wit 
fearful  velocity.  To  secure  the  steamers  against  wh; 
promised  to  be  an  ordinary  strong  gale,  immediate] 
occupied  all  our  attention,  at  the  very  moment  that  \i 
Airivid  at   wcrc  arriving  at  the  rocky  passage  of  Is-Geria.     Lidee< 

Is-Geria. 

we  were  already  so  close  to  it  that  there  was  not  su 
ficient  space  to  round  to  and  bring  up ;  consequently, 
became  most  prudent  to  steam  onwards,  the  result  < 
which  I  now  give  in  the  words  of  Mr.  Fitzjames : — 
*  A  squall  was  observed  on  the  right  hand,  which 
was  thought  would  not  reach  us ;  but  just  as  we  wej 
going  tlu-ough  the  rocky  passage  of  Is-Geria  (whic 
however,  we  did  not  see,  as  there  were  three  feet  < 
water  over  tlie  rocks),  the  squall  was  observed  comii 
in  our  direction  from  the  WSW.  with  great  rapidit 
and  looking  Uke  a  large  cloud  of  black  mud.   As  soon  i 
the  rocks  were  passed,  the  "  Tigris  '*  made  signal  to  pic 
up  oiu*  berth,  and  she  rounded  by  us  to  the  left  ban 
As  our  broadside  came  to  the  stream,  we  were  take 
with  the  violence  of  the  hurricane,  which  made  i 
heel  considerably  ;  but  being .  too  near  the  "  Tigris," 
became  necessary  to   back  our  paddles,  to  avoid 
fatal  coUision.     It  was  blowing  tremendously,  and  tl 
air  so  thick  with  sand  that  we  could  scaiv^ly  see.     C 
our  bow  touching  the  bank,  Charlcwood  and  a  niunber 


Mr.  Fite- 
james's 
account 
of  the 
humcaiid. 


LOSS   OF  THE   'TIGRIS'   STEAMER.  253 

the  crew  jumped  on  snore,  and  by  the  greatest  exertions  chap. 
got  an  anchor  out,  which,  with  the  full  power  of  • — r-^ 
steam,  held  her  till  two  chain-cables  were  got  out,  and 
secured  by  means  of  jumpers  driven  into  the  ground ; 
but  with  all  this  she  dragged,  and  would  have  gone 
down  at  her  anchor  had  the  storm  continued — for  the 
waves  were  then  four  feet  above  the  bank  of  tlie  river. 
When  at  its  height,  we  saw  the  poor  "  Tigris  "  fall  off 
from  the  shore,  and  drift  past  us  at  a  fearful  rate,  broad- 
side to  the  wind,  and  heeling  over  considerably.  She 
soon  disappeared  in  the  cloud  of  sand,  but  on  looking 
astern,  soon  after,  I  saw  her  in  a  sinking  state,  with 
her  bow  already  imder  water — in  fact  going  down,  and 
it  is  believed  that,  on  reaching  the  bottom,  she  turned 
keel  upwards.' 

Such  is  the  account  written,  on  the  instant,  by  the  mp. 
lamented  Fitzjames.     The  following  is  that  given  also  wood's 
at  the  time  by  Mr.  Charlewood,  who  says :  *  At  two  ^^^ 
P.M.,  the  men  having  dined,  all  was  ready  for  proceeding  ^""«*^*- 
down  the  river,  and  little  did  we  imagine,  when  shoving 
off  from  the  bank,  how  few  of  our  party  would  ever 
tread  the  ground  again.     Having  steamed  downward 
for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  clouds  towards 
the  SW.  b^an  to  assume  an  alarming  appearance. 
The  wind,  which  was  before  from  the  SE.,  gradually 
fell   to   a   light  breeze.      These    ominous   symptoms 
caused  us  to  furl  the   awnings    and   put   things   in 
order,  and  the  "Tigris"  appeared  to  be   doing   the 
same.     The  clouds  by   this  time  were  quite   terrific. 
Below  the  darkest  of  them,  there  was  a  large   col- 
lection  of  matter,   of  a   dark  crimson  colour,  which 
was  rolling  towards  us  at  an  awful  rate ;  and  at  the 


254  NAKRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  moment  we  were  looking  most  anxiously  for  a  signal 
* — r-^  from  the  "  Tigris  "  to  secure  to  the  bank.  But  we  were 
then  passing  through  the  first  belt  or  mass  of  rocks  at 
Is-Geria  laid  down  in  the  Colonel's  chart,  and  she 
was  therefore  obliged  to  postpone  the  signal — a  fatal 
delay  I  But  the  instant  the  rocks  were  passed,  the  signal 
was  made,  and  we  rounded  to,  to  endeavour  to  bring  the 
vessel's  bow  up  the  stream,  and  the  "  Tigris,"  then  a  little 
ahead  of  us,  did  the  same.  But,  at  this  very  moment,  a 
tremendous  gust  of  wind  came  on  us,  and  nearly  laid 
us  on  our  broadside,  at  the  same  time  hurling  both 
against  the  bank  with  an  awful  crash.  The  water 
forced  the  w^indows  open  forward,  and  would  have 
speedily  swamped  the  vessel,  if  the  carpenters  had  not 
rushed  below  to  close  the  openings.  Only  one  resource 
now  remained — namely,  that  of  securing  the  Vessel,  for 
if  she  sheered  off,  all  would  be  lost.  For,  day  being 
turned  into  night  by  clouds  of  sand,  the  hurricane, 
which  was  carrying  the  latter,  would  blow  the  vessel 
so  far  over  that  she  must  fill  through  the  windows. 
But  the  necessary  exertions  were  forthcoming  at  this 
trying  moment.  With  some  diflSculty  a  part  of  the 
men  got  ashore,  and  having  succeeded  in  placing  three 
anchors  in  the  ground,  with  the  cliain-cables  secured  by 
means  of  jumpers  driven  into  the  earth,  and  the  engines 
working  at  full  speed,  the  "Euphrates"  was  saved 
by  these  means,  notwithstanding  the  raging  storm. 
But  it  is  believed  by  all  the  survivors,  tliat  she 
must  have  experienced  the  fate  of  her  consort,  if  the 
height  of  the  raging  storm  had  continued  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  longer.' 

To  revert  to  what  occurred  on  board  the  '  Tigris,' 


THE  STOBM  AT  ITS  HEIGHT.  255 

where  I  was  myself,  immediately  before  this  fatal  chap. 
catastrophe.  She  had  barely  cleared  the  rocks,  and  ' — r-^ 
the  officers  and  men  were  exerting  themselves  to  the 
utmost  to  bring  up,  when  the  hurricane  increased  in 
violence.  The  larger  steamer  was  then  nearly  at  the 
spot  marked  B,  and  the  smaller  one  at  that  marked  A,  Po«»tion  of 
from  whence,  in  order  to  bring  up,  she  rounded  to  at 
the  bank.  As  usual,  there  were  two  men  at  the  bow, 
ready  to  jump  out,  each  with  one  anchor.  But,  just  as 
she  touched  the  bank  at  c,  with  some  violence,  the 
storm  caused  her  to  recoil  so  rapidly,  that  only  one  of 
the  men  managed  to  jump  ashore  before  the  vessel 
was  driven  before  this  whirlwind  of  the  desert,  which, 
being  now  at  its  greatest  height,  soon  laid  her  on  her 
beam-ends.  Our  hopes  rested  on  bringing  the  vessel's 
head  to  wind,  by  means  of  an  anchor  and  the  use  of  low  of  th« 

,  •Tigris.* 

the  engine ;  but  both  failed,  and,  to  add  to  our  diffi- 
culties, the  fires  were  extinguished  by  the  raging  waves, 
which  broke  over  the  deck,  and  through  the  skyhghts, 
while,  owing  to  the  vessel  being  quite  on  her  side,  she 
was  held  as  if  in  a  vice,  the  water  all  the  time  rushing  in 
through  the  windows  both  forward  and  aft,  notwithstand- 
ing the  efforts  of  the  Messrs.  Staunton  and  Lieutenant 
CJockbum ;  and  in  this  state,  broadside  to  the  wind,  we 
were  driven,  like  a  helpless  log,  directly  towards  our 
consort.  But  the  collision — ^which  seemed  inevitable,  and 
which  would  probably  have  been  fatal  to  both  vessels 
— ^was  avoided  by  the  presence  of  mind  of  Lieutenant 
Cleaveland,  who,  at  imminent  risk  to  his  own  party, 
backed  his  steamer  so  as  to  allow  us  to  pass,  and  thus 
averted  this  additional  danger ;  whilst  the  *  Tigris ' 
drifted   helplessly    onwards,   and    both   vessels   were 


' 


t 


r 


I 


256  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    instantly  lost  to  each  other  in  the  more  than  Egyptij 

XIV  .  . 

^- — .-^  darkness  of  this  calamitous  day. 

The  '  Tigris's '  brief  career  being  now  almost  at  i 
end,  Lieutenant  Lynch  reported  her  to  be  sinkin 
and  the  word  was  given  for  all  to  endeavour  to  sa^ 
themselves ;  when,  at  that  critical  moment,  a  gleam 
light  showed  us  the  bank  at  a  little  distance,  and  tl 
hope  of  reaching  it  caused  the  order  to  be  given 
*  stand  fast.'     It  was  but  for  an  instant :   in   a  fe 

'Tigris*      seconds  all  was  total  darkness  again,  and  in  less  thj 

goei  to  the  ,      ,  ^      , 

bottom.  another  minute  the  *  Tigris '  was  going  to  the  bottoi 
with  every  individual  at  his  post.  The  deck  was  alreac 
quite  under  water,  when  again  a  momentary  glea 
of  light  once  more  showed  us  the  bank  of  the  river  n 
far  off ;  and  in  my  own  case  it  is  gratefully  remembers 
that  this  enabled  me  to  take  the  right  direction,  nc 
withstanding  the  darkness,  which  had  returned  instantl 
What  I  recollect  about  this  eventful  moment  is,  that 
diving  out  of  the  vessel  my  back  was  caught  by  tl 
ridge-rope  of  the  deck-awning,  so  that  we  must  alreac 
have  been  seven  or  eight  feet  below  the  surface ;  ai 
whilst  endeavouring  to  get  dear,  I  felt  some  one  at  n 
back,  but  we  were  immediately  parted  by  the  violen 
of  the  waves.*  Continuing  what  was  actually  divii 
more  than  swimming,  my  feet  touched  the  ground  in 
cornfield.  Up  to  this  moment  I  had  been  in  tot 
darkness,  but  at  this  instant,  turning  my  eyes  towar 
the  river,  I  had  the  last  glimpse  of  the  '  Tigris '  ke 
upwards.f     In  addition  to  Mr.  Thomson  and  myse 

*  As  well  a^  we  could  make  out,  this  was  Mr.  Thomson. 
t  A8  the  Tigris  went  down  in  her  natural  position,  and  was  afterwa] 
found  with  her  keel  uppermost,  it  is  supposed  that  on  touching  \ 


LIMITBD  BA19GE  OF  THE  HUBBICANE.  257 

the  two  Stauntons,  and  Messrs.  Lynch  and  Eden  (both    chap. 

JvXV* 


greatly  exhausted),  were  saved,  besides  nine  of  the  men, 
viz. :  —  William    Benson    and   E.    Laurie,    seamen ;  gurnvors. 
Corporal  Fisher,  of  the  Eoyal  Artillery ;  Vincenzo  and 
Giacomo,  Maltese  cooks  ;  and  four  natives. 

We  had  scarcely  time  to  become  conscious  of  our  short  du- 
safety,  when  darkness  vanished,  and  the  waves,  which  hurricane, 
had  carried  us  some  feet  above  the  river's  bank,  and 
landed  us  in  a  cornfield,  had  ceased  to  exist.    All 
became  calm    and  clear    as  before,   and  barely   25 
minutes  had  seen  the  beginning,  progress,  and  termina- 
tion of  this  fearful  hurricane.     This  whirlwind  of  the  it« 
desert  had  swept  across  the  river  onlyj  extending  but  eaSent. 
very  little  above  and  below  the  spot  where  the  steamers 
were — ^which  singular  fact  we  soon  ascertained  from 
Mr.  Hector,  who  was  with  the  surveying-boats  about 
ten  miles  below  the  scene  of  the  disaster,  and  who 
experienced  nothing  more  than  a  moderate  gale. 

With  our  assistance.  Lieutenants  Lynch  and  Eden, 
although  most  painfully  exhausted,  managed  to  crawl 
on  ;  and  we  had  gone  but  a  little  way  along  the  river's 
bank,  in  search  of  the  other  vessel  and  her  crew,  with 
feelings  more  excited  between  hope  and  fear  than  can 
be  described,  when,  to  our  inexpressible  relief,  we  saw 
Messrs.  Charlewood  and  Ainsworth  approaching  us, 
with  some  of  their  men.  This  at  once  told  us  that  all  The 
was  not  lost,  and  we  soon  had  the  delight  of  learning  tes^'^safe! 
that  the  '  Euphrates '  had  outlived  the  tempest.     With 

bottom  first  with  her  bow  on  going  down,  she  was  whirled  round  by  the 
force  of  the  current,  and  settled  down  bi^ttom  upwards,  as  she  was 
found ;  and  I  must  have  seen  her  at  this  very  moment,  and  before  the 
waves  bid  her  from  our  sight. 


258  NAKRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP  truly  grateful  feelings,  yet  feeble  in  proportion 
> — r— ^  the  mercies  we  had  experience  we  now  met  th< 
friends,  whose  joy  and  thankfulness  almost  equalled  c 
own.  Very  brief,  however,  were  our  greetings, 
there  was  work — and  most  pressing  work — to  be  doi 
and  those  we  had  just  met  hastened  on,  in  tlie  hope 
rescuing  some  of  our  missing  companions. 

We  were  barely  able  to  reach  the  'Euphrat 
where  everything  on  board  showed  how  nearly  i 
also  had  been  lost,  and  feeling  at  the  moment  qi 
sanguine  as  to  the  safety  of  those  who  had  been 
board  the  '  Tigris,'  I  met  Madame  Heifer  with  qi 
a  joyous  feehng,  and  even  repeating  the  distich, 
vous  voulez  danser,  je  vous  prie  de  le  faire  commencer 
thus  conveying  to  her  the  erroneous  impression,  wh 
was  my  own  also  at  the  moment,  that  all  were  sa 
nor  was  this  expectation  unreasonable,  since,  with 
exception  of  Lieutenant  Cockbum,  all  were  g< 
swimmers,  and  unlikely  to  have  failed  in  reaching 
No  sum-  bank.  But  when  the  next  morning  brought  no  tidi 
Yors  found.  ^£  ^^^  missiug  fricuds,  we  became  deeply  anxio 
Arabs  were  despatched  to  make  enquiries  everywh 
and  our  men  and  boats  were  employed  in  search 
the  islands,  and  examining  the  banks  on  both  side 
the  river,  while  Mr.  Hector  made  particular  enquirie 
and  near  El-Kaim.  But  two  days  passed,  and  still  tl: 
was  no  intelligence,  and  our  hopes  were  now  reducec 
the  possibility  of  finding  one  or  two  of  our  compani 
in  some  of  the  Arab  tents. 

During  this  period  of  anxious  search  and  enqu 
the  weather  was  marked  by  repeated  storms  of  thun 
and  lightning,  and  on  May  24  we  had  a  shower 


OUB  POSITION  COXSIDKBED.  259 

hailstones,  some  of  which  measured  14  inch  in  dia-    jchap. 

XIV 

meter,  and  weighed  120  grains  each.     On  the  25th,  ^ — r-^ 
the  bodies  of  Mr.  Sader  and  of  the  sapper  Macdonald  bodies 
were  recovered,  and  were  buried  by  their  commander, 
near  Erzi,  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day. 

All  hope  of  finding  any  survivors  being  by  this  time  Board  of 
nearly  given  up,  it  became  my  duty  to  think  of  the  *'°^""^' 
future ;  and  I  at  once  assembled  a  board  of  officers, 
consisting  of  lieutenant  Cleaveland  as  President,  and 
Messrs.  Charlewood  and  Fitzjames  as  members,  who 
were  instructed  to  go  into  all  the  circumstances  attend- 
ing our  late  disaster.  After  a  most  painstaking  exami- 
nation for  five  hours,  and  after  going  carefully  into 
all  the  evidence  that  could  be  obtained,  it  was  decided 
that  every  possible  effort  to  save  the  *  Tigris '  had  been 
made,  and  that  the  conduct  of  all  on  board  had  been 
most  praiseworthy.* 

Having  thus  done  justice  to  the  past,  and  to  those  9"'"  p****" 
wTio  were  no  more,  the  best  course  to  be  followed, 
under  our  present  altered  circumstances,  became  the 
all-absorbing  consideration.  We  were  already  far 
advanced  on  our  mission,  being,  in  fact,  midway 
between  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Indian  Ocean,  with 
the  choice  before  us  of  either  endeavouring  to  reach 
the  latter,  or  of  retracing  our  steps  to  the  former. 
Had  this  question  stood  alone,  the  decision  would 
have  been  easy  and  simple ;  but  it  was  far  otherwise, 
and  many  considerations  of  a  complicated  nature  had 
to  be  taken  into  account.  One  of  our  steamers,  all 
our  money,  and  a  large  portion  of  our  party,  had  been 
lost ;  and  it  remained  to  be  seen  whether  the  moral 

•  On  Jiroount  of  want  of  ,<4p;i<*p,  these  proooedinjrs  are  not  privt^n  here. 

8  2 


260  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXFEDITIOK. 

CHAP,    courage  of  the  survivors  would  be  too  much  shaken  to 
' — r-^  permit  them  to  prosecute  the  enterprise    with  the 


requisite  zeal,  especially  when  they  should  be  made  ac- 
quainted with  the  instructions  fix>m  home  to  terminate 
our  labours  at  once,  which  instructions  had  (as  I  have 
already  stated)  been  hitherto  kept  in  abeyance  by  me.  I 
now  felt  that  this  was  the  moment  to  make  them  known. 
ContinnA-  I  think  that  it  will  readily  be  admitted  that,  taking 
enton>riM»  iuto  Consideration  our  isolated  position  in  the  heart 
dead  on.  ^£  Turkish  Arabia,  the  task  of  carrying  on  the  enter- 
prise was  one  fraught  with  much  anxiety  and  respon- 
sibility. Great  as  these  were,  however,  and  heavily 
as  they  weighed  upon  me,  the  conviction  that  I  was 
fulfilling  an  imperative  duty  to  our  country  exceeded 
them  all ;  and  my  determination  to  proceed,  if  pos- 
sible, was  immeasurably  strengthened  by  the  way  id 
which  the  disheartening  intelligence  I  had  to  com- 
municate was  received.  One  and  all,  oflScers  and 
men,  at  once  expressed  themselves  not  only  ready, 
but  anxious  to  second  me  in  every  way,  and  volun- 
teered to  forego  their  Expedition  pay,  in  order  to 
lessen  our  expenses  as  much  as  possible.  So  supported, 
by  such  a  set  of  men,  I  no  longer  hesitated  what 
course  to  pursue.  The  prosecution  of  the  enterprise 
was  decided  on. 
•Tigris'         Before,  however,  resuming  the  survey,  it   became 

cpew  sent  i      •  j  i  -nit 

homo.  necessary  to  deade  on  the  painful  but  unavoidable 
step  of  sending  home  the  survivors  of  the  unfortunate 
*  Tigris.'  Motives  of  economy — considering  the  views 
of  the  Government —  rendered  this  necessary.  It  was 
accordingly  settled  that  this  decision  should  be  carried 
out   on    reaching  Anna,   and   we    then   prepared   to 


.     LOSS  OF  THE  EMPEBOR  JULIAN'S  FLEET.  261 

resiuue   the   descent,    pending   the  arrival  of  funds     chap. 
fix)m  Bagdad.    We  collected  some  of  the  arm-chests  ^ — r-^- 
and  other  things  which  had  been  washed  ashore  from 
the  '  Tigris,'  and  up  to  the  last  moment  of  our  stay  in 
this  part  of  the  river,  our  exertions  were  unremitting 
to  obtain  traces  of  the  lost  ones,  and  to  find  oiu:  poor 
little  vessel     This  spot,  so  fatal  to  us,  had  been  so  in  a  Lobb  of  tho 
far  greater  d^ree  to  the  Emperor  Julian,  whose  fleet  juiuST 
and  part  of  his  army  were,  according  to  Gibbon,  lost    *^ 
at  this  point  of  his  descent  towards  Mesopotamia.* 

Our  efforts  to  find  the  '  Tigris '  were  quite  ineffectual, 
and  we  quitted  Is-Geria  on  May  25,  and  steamed  past 
El-Kaim  under  circumstances  as  favourable  as  possible, 
after  so  great  a  calamity.  In  the  afternoon  we  ap- 
proached Bava,  where  my  faithful  pilot  during  my 
solitary  raft-expedition  (Getgood)  came  on  board.  This  oetgood 
was  to  me  a  great  and  very  unexpected  pleasure,  ^^"^ 
since  his  death  had  been  reported ;  whereas  we  foimd 
him  ready  to  renew  his  forma*  services,  and  to  help  us 
in  navigating  with  a  steamer  those  waters  which  he 
had  BO  zealously  assisted  me  in  surveying.  We  gladly 
received  him  on  board,  and  under  his  guidance  passed 
safely  through  the  partially-broken  waters  which  then 
concealed  the  Eocks  of  Karablah ;  then  skirting  the  town 
of  Eava,  our  steamer  was  brought  up  at  the  outskirts 
of  the  long  town  of  Anna.  ] 

We  expected  that  this  place  would  eventually  be-  short  stay 
come  a  permanent  station,  and  we  gladly  availed  our- 
selves of  our  temporary  halt  to  celebrate  our  gracious 

*  According  to  AmmianuB  Marcellinus  (lib.  xxiv.  cap.  1),  1,000 
Tesselfl  were  lost  on  that  occasion.  These  hurricanes  are^  howeveri 
extremely  rare  on  the  Euphrates. 


262  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.     Sovereign's  birthday,  by  firing  a  royal  salute  on  ti 

-T  .  '  ^  morning  of  the  26th,  and  treating   the  Arabs  to 

display  of  rockets  after  dark.    Here  we   also  mac 

all  such  arrangements  for  continuing  the   survey  i 

were  practicable  until  funds  should  be  sent  us  fro 

Bagdad ;  and   from   this  point  the  survivors   of  tl 

Despntch    'Tigris'  departed  for  England,  bearing  with  them 

**"        '  desimtch  to  the  Government,  giving  an  account  of  wh 

had  occurred,  which  afterwards  appeared  in  the '  Lond< 

Gazette.'     Under  the  impression  that  this  despatch,  ai 

what  followed  upon  it,  will  not  be  devoid  of  intei'est 

the  public,  even  after  this  lapse  of  time,  I  venture 

insert  them  here  : — 

Letter  from  Colonel  Chesney  to  Sir  John  Hobhouse 

*  «  Euphrates  *'  Steamer,  Anna,  May  28,  1836 

Colonel  '  ^'^' — ^^  ^^  ^^^^'^  feeUiigs  of  the  deepest  regi-et  thai 

sir*j°Hob^  d(3  myself  the  honour  of  informing  you  that  the  "  Tigri 
house.        steamer   was  totally  lost*  during  a  hurricane  of  i 
describable  violence,  which,  after  the  short  struggle 
about  eight  minutes,  sent  a  fine  vessel  to  the  bottom 
five   fathoms  f  water,  and   deprived   His   Majesty 
fifteen  valuable  men,  with  five  natives  in  addition.^ 

'  My  reports  up  to  the  17  th  instant  at  Deir  will  ha 
informed  you  that  all  was  going  on  as  successfully 
the  most  sangiiine  could  possibly  desire  :  we  found  t 
Anil)s  well-disposed,   and  quite  ready  to  form  dep 

*  It  appears,  by  letters  subsequentlj  received  from  Colonel  Cheu 
and  more  recently  fVom  Lieutenant  Lynch,  that  there  is  a  prospect  of 
property  of  the  'Tigris'  steamer  being  eventtially  recovered. — Ii 
Board,  February  1838. 

t  The  last  depth  sounded :  we  since  found  three- and-a-half  fath< 
on  oiio  side  tlie  spot,  and  fire  fathoms  on  the  other  side. 

l  lAnt  of  tho  oflicers  and  men  who  perished,  p.  270. 


PASSAGE   OF  IS-GERIA.  263 

for  us  of  wood,  charcoal,  bitumen,  and  lignite-coal — all    chap. 


XIV. 


met   with   in    abundance,  and    tried   with    complete 
success.  ^^ 

*  In  addition  to  these  marked  advantages,  the  survey  ^^^^^^^ 
has  been  carried  509  miles  down  "  tlie  great  river," 
wiiich  seemed  in  all  respects  favourable ;  in  short,  all 
was  continued  prosperity  up  to  the  afternoon  of  the 
21st  instant,  when  it  pleased  God  to  send  the  calami- 
tous event,  of  which  it  is  my  duty  to  give  a  feeble 
sketch. 

'  A  httle  after  1  p.m.  on  that  melancholy  day,  the 
flat-boats  being  a  httle  ahead,  and  the  "  Tigris  "  heading 
the  "  Euphi'ates,"  a  storm  appeared,  bringing  with  it, 
high  up  in  the  air,  clouds  of  aand  from  the  west-south- 
west quarter.  At  tliis  moment  we  were  passing  over 
the  rocks  of  Ls-Geria  (deeply  covered),  and  immediately 
after  we  made  the  signal  for  the  "  Euphrates"  to  choose  a 
berth  and  make  fast — which  was  done  more  as  a  matter 
of  precaution,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  seeing  oiu: 
way  through  the  sand,  than  from  apprehension  that  the 
squall  would  be  so  terrific. 

'  The  "  Tigris  "  was  immediately  directed  towards  the 
bank,  against  which  she  struck  without  injury,  but 
with  so  much  violence  as  to  recoil  about  eight  yards, 
leaving  two  men  on  the  bank  who  had  jumped  out  to 
make  fast:  the  wind  tlien  suddenly  veered  round, 
drove  her  bow  off,  and  thus  rendered  it  quite  im- 
possible to  secure  the  vessel  to  the  bank,  along  which 
she  was  blown  rapidly  by  the  heavy  gusts — her  head 
falling  off  into  the  stream  as  she  passed  close  by  the 
*'  Euphrates,"  which  vessel  had  been  backed  opportunely 
to  avoid  the  coUision.     The  engines  were  working  at 


1 


« 


264  NABRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHBATBS  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    fiill  power,  and  every  endeavour  made  to  turn  t 

xrv 
w   ,  *  ^  vessel's  bow  to  the  bank ;  one  anchor  was  let  go,  I: 

chwn^     the  heel  of  the  vessel  made  it  impossible  to  get  t 

UoUurajt  ^^^^^  ^^®  ^^**  S^®  ^^  *^^^  nearly  broadside  to  t 
wind,  with  the  engines  almost  powerless,  and  the  wav 
rising  to  the  height  of  four  or  five  feet,  forcing  th< 
way  in  at  the  windows. 

^Lieutenant  Cockbum,  the  Messrs.  Staunton,  a 
some  of  the  men,  made  ineffectual  attempts  to  keep  < 
the  water,  for  the  fate  of  the  vessel  was  already  decide 
and  the  forepart  of  the  deck  being  under  wat 
Lieutenant  Lynch  came  to  report  that  the  ^'  Tigri 
was  smking,  and  the  word  was  immediately  pass 
for  all  to  save  themselves.  At  this  very  instant, 
momentary  gleam  of  light  faintly  showed  the  bank 
the  apparent  distance  of  eight  or  ten  yards ;  and 
there  seemed  every  probability  that  the  stern  woi 
touch  it  before  she  went  down.  Lieutenant  Lye 
encouraged  the  people  to  remain  steady  until  tt 
reached  the  land. 

*A11  were  on  deck  at  this  critical  moment;  so: 
were  chnging  to  the  ropes  of  the  awning,  the  padd 
boxes,  and  funnel,  but  the  majority  were  close  to  I 
tiller,  and  all  behaving  with  the  most  exempL 
obedience,  until  the  vessel  went  down  all  at  on 
and  probably  within  half  a  minute  after  we  had  s< 
the  bank  for  an  instant.  Lieutenant  Lynch,  who  i 
at  my  elbow,  dived  out  imder  the  starboard  rid 
rope  at  the  moment  when  there  was  about  four  f 
water  on  the  deck,  and  I  had  the  good  fortime  to  , 
clear  in  the  same  manner  (through  the  larboard  sic 
and  also  to  take  a  direction  which  brought  me  to 


'i 


FATE  OF  THE  <  TIOBIS  '  STEAMER.  265 

land,  without  having  seen  anything  whatever  to  guide    chap, 
me  through  the  darkness  worse  than  that  of  night.  >,  ,  '-^ 

*  When  it  cleared  a  little,  I  found  around  me  ^^^^ 
Lieutenant  Lynch,  Mr.  Eden  (both  greatly  exhausted),  ^  ^J^- 
Mr.  Thompson,  the  Messrs.  Staimton,  and  several  of 

the  men ;  the  hurricane  was  already  abating  fast,  and, 
as  the  distance  from  the  vessel  to  the  shore  was  very 
short,  we  indulged  the  hope  that  the  rest  of  our  brave 
companions  had  reached  the  bank  lower  down.  For 
an  instant  I  saw  the  keel  of  the  "Tigris"  uppermost 
(near  the  stem) ;  she  went  down  bow-foremost,  and 
having  struck  the  bottom  in  that  position,  she  pro- 
bably turned  round  on  the  bow  as  a  pivot,  and  thus 
showed  part  of  her  keel  for  an  instant  at  the  other 
extremity ;  but  her  paddle-beams,  floats,  and  parts  of 
the  sides  were  already  broken  up,  and  actually  floated 
ashore — so  speedy  and  terrific  had  been  the  work  of 
destruction. 

•  From  the  moment  of  striking  the  bank  until  the 
**  Tigris  "*  went  down,  it  scarcely  exceeded  eight  minutes, 
whilst  the  operation  of  sinking  itself  did  not  consume 
more  than  three  minutes  ;  indeed,  the  gale  was  so  very 
violent,  that  I  doubt  whether  the  most  powerful  vessel, 
such  as  a  frigate,  could  have  resisted,  unless  she  was 
already  secured  to  the  bank  ;  and  for  this,  in  our  case, 
there  was  httle  or  no  time,  as  it  was  barely  possible,  in 
the  position  of  our  consort,  to  make  fast  and  save 
the  vessel. 

'  I  had  little  or  rather  no  hope  that  the  "  Euphrates  " 
eould  have  escaped ;  but  the  intrepid  skill  of  Lieutenant 
Oeaveland  and  Mr.  Charlewood  enabled  them  to  get 
out  two  anchors  in  the  very  nick  of  time,  and  by  the 


2G6  NARBATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  united  means  of  two  hawsers,  and  the  engines  working 

XIV  .        .  . 

*-\,  '  "  at  full  speed,  the  vessel  maintained  her  position  at  the 


chwnrr  hank  uutil  the  storm  abated  (as  the  enclosed  letter  from 
HobLnjje  ^Japtain  Estcourt*  will  explain  more  fully) ;  and  as  it 
required  all  the  power  of  a  50-horse  engine  in  the 
case  of  the  "  Euphrates  "  to  keep  her  hawsers  from  snap- 
ping, I  infer  that  the  20-horse  of  the  "  Tigris  "  would 
not  have  been  sufficient  to  enable  her  to  keep, the 
}>osition  of  the  bank,  even  if  the  officers  had  suc- 
ceeded in  securing  her  alongside  of  it. 

^  Lieutenant  Lynch  and  Mr.  Eden  continued  cool 
and  collected  to  the  last  minute,  nor  were  any  efforts 
wanting  that  skill  or  presence  of  mind  could  suggest,  to 
save  the  vessel  in  the  first  instance,  and  the  Uves  in  the 
second,  when  the  former  had  failed ;  nor  could  any- 
thing be  more  exemplary  than  their  conduct,  and  that 
of  all  on  board.  Scarcely  a  word  was  spoken,  not  a 
mmmiu-  was  heard  ;  and  death  was  met  with  that 
exemplary  degree  of  intrepidity  and  resignation  which 
have  been  displayed  by  every  individual  throughout 
the  arduous  and  trying  service  in  which  we  have  been 
engaged  since  January  1835. 

'  Having  already  given  a  faithful  account  of  the  short 
but  eventful  period  (of  about  twelve  minutes)  occupied 
by  the  beginning,  progress,  and  termination  of  the 
hurricane,  I  will  conclude  the  painful  part  of  my  task 
by  referring  you  to  the  enclosed  return  of  the  names 
of  the  valuable  men  who  have  been  lost  to  His  Majesty 
and  their  country  for  ever.  Very  different  was  the 
result  when  a  similar  and  less  violent  gale  sent  my  little 
vessel  to  the  bottom  of  the  river  in  183l,f  for  Ihad  not 

•  Daied  May  26.  t  See  p.  02. 


FRUITLESS  SEARCH   FOR  THE  *  TIGRIS/  267 

then  the  misery  of  deploring  the  loss  of  a  single  Ufe,  and    chap. 
my  Uttle  schooner  was  again  afloat,  and  continuing  the  — ^-^ 
descent,  in  less  than  twelve  hours;   whereas  all  our  chMnty 
eflbrts  have  as  yet  failed  even  to  find  the  remains  of  HobhOT«e« 
the  vessel ;  not  a  ripple  or  the  shghtest  trace  of  the  un- 
fortunate "  Tigris  "  marks  the  spot  where  she  went  down. 
But  our  search  has  not  yet  terminated,  and  if  she  should 
be  found  without  having  been  dashed  to  pieces,  I  shall 
take  measures  to  recover  her,  with  the  assistance  of  the 
diving-bell  and  other  means,  especially  as  there  are 
very  valuable  instruments  on  board,  in  addition  to  the 
hull  and  machinery,  and  more  particularly  as  the  Arabs 
are  well-disposed. 

'  I  am  happy  to  say  that  the  survivors  of  the  Expedition 
remain  as  much  unshaken  as  ever  in  their  confidence 
regarding  the  final  success  of  the  undertaking,  as  well 
as  the  manifest  advantages,  facilities,  and  cheapness  of 
this  line  of  commimication.  The  hurricane  has  been, 
it  is  true,  a  most  trying  and  calamitous  event ;  but  I 
beUeve  it  is  regarded  by  all,  even  at  this  early  day,  as 
having  no  mcwre  to  do  with  the  navigation  of  the 
Euplu'ates  in  other  respects,  than  the  loss  of  a  packet  in 
the  Irish  Channel,  which  might  retard  but  could  not 
put  an  end  to  the  intercourse  between  England  and 
Ireland. 

'  We  are  therefore  continuing  our  descent  and  survey 
to  Basrah ;  hoping  not  only  to  bring  up  the  mail  from 
India  within  the  specified  time,  but  also,  if  it  pletise  God 
to  spare  us,  to  demonstrate  the  speed,  economy,  and 
commercial  advantages  of  the  River  Euphrates,  provided 
the  decision  of  Ministers  shall  be,  in  the  true  spirit  of 
Englishmen,  to  give  it  a  fair  trial,  rather  than  abandon 


■  f 


268  KABRi^TIYE  OF  THE  SUPHEATES  EXPEDITION. 


j  CHAP,    the  original  purpose  in  consequence  of  an  unforea 

^ — r-^  and,  as  it  proved,  an  imavoidable  calamity. 
^^y  ahave,&a 

plw  (Sig^^)    'F.RChbsney,  Colonel, 

^  Commanding  the  Euphrates  Expediti 

<  The  Right  Hon. 

<  Sir  John  Cam  Hobhouse,  Bart  and  G.C3.' 


Letter  from  Captain  Estcourt  to  Colonel  Chesney} 

*  <^  Euphrates*'  Steamer,  Anna,  Maj  26, 18d 

Captain  '  SiR, — ^Thc  vcry  unexpected  nature  of  the  hurricj 

Colonel  in  which  this  vessel  was  taken  on  Saturday  last, 
**°^^"  21st  instant,  and  the  extreme  violence  with  whicl 
was  accompanied,  renders  it  necessary  that  I  she 
acquaint  you  with  the  circumstances  as  they  affec 
this  vessel ;  and  that  I  should  lay  before  you  the  o 
duct  of  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  and  Mr.  Charlewo 
j  to  whose  imited  exertions  and  skill,  supported  by  i 

active  exertions  of  a  most  willing  crew,  added  to  I 
great  power  of  the  engines  with  which  this  vessel 
propelled,  her  safety  is  to  .be  attributed. 

'  Scarcely  had  we  cast  off  from  the  bank — where, 
midday  on  Saturday  last,  we,  in  company  with  1 
"  Tigris,"  had  stopped  to  take  in  wood — ^when  a  dei 
doud  of  dust  was  seen  to  rise  high  into  the  air  on  1 
right  bank ;  for  some  minutes  it  was  doubtful  whetl 
it  would  not  pass  off  to  our  right,  but  soon  it  v 
apparent  that  it  would  be  otherwise.  Preparation  v 
made  to  meet  the  squall,  by  furling  the  awning,  &c* 
soon  as  the  "  Tigris,"  which  was  leading  as  usual,  h 
cleared  a  reef  of  rocks,  at  this  season  &r  under  water,  i 

*  This  lettor  being  Captain  Estcourt's,  I  think  it  better  to  leave  i 
it  was  written  by  him. 


ij- 


CAPTAIN  bstcourt's  beport.  269 

made  a  signal  to  choose  a  berth  and  to  make  fast ;  hardly    chap. 

XIV 

was  the  signal  answered  when  the  gale  began.    The  ^ — r-^ 


"  Tigris  "  was  rounding  to,  to  bring  up  to  the  left  bank ;  E^SSitto 
the  "  Euphrates  "  followed ;  but  as  we  neared  the  bank,  ^^^^ 
I  saw  that  the  Tigris  could  not  stem  the  gale  and 
current ;   she  had  failed  to  make  the  bank,  and  was 
falling  off  with  her  head  outwards. 

*The  "Euphrates"  was  compelled  to  back  her 
paddles  to  give  room — an  operation,  as  you  will  at 
once  see,  full  of  danger,  for  it  could  scarcely  be  ex- 
pected that  she  would  afterwards  be  able  to  gather 
way  upon  herself  against  the  violence  of  the  elements 
and  current.  However,  the  "  Tigris  "  having  passed 
across  our  bows,  we  worked  our  engines  with  all  their 
power.  The  vessel  took  the  bank  with  some  violence, 
but  did  not  recoil  off;  instantly  Mr.  Charlewood  was  on 
shore,  followed  by  many  men,  bearing  a  hawser  and 
light  anchor.  Within  a  few  seconds,  a  second  anchor 
and  chain-cable  had  been  got  ashore,  and  these  were 
followed  rapidly  by  a  second  chain-cable  and  anchor. 
Lieutenant  Cleaveland  kept  the  engines  working  the 
whole  time,  notwithstanding  which  the  vessel  drove ; 
however,  the  gale  was  soon  over,  and  the  vessel  safe. 

*  The  density  of  the  cloud  of  dust  excluded  from  my 
view  the  "  Tigris  "  from  the  moment  she  crossed  our 
bows.  Mr.  Fitzjames,  in  the  midst  of  the  storm,  reported 
to  me,  first,  that  she  was  upset,  and  then  that  she  had 
gone  down.  As  soon,  therefore,  as  our  own  dangers  had 
ceased,  and  that  the  "  Euphrates  "  was  secured,  I  sent  off 
Lieutenant  Murphy,  to  render  what  assistance  he  might 
be  able  to  the  crew  of  our  consort,  whilst  Mr.  Charle- 
wood pressed  me  to  allow  him  to  go  by  boat ;  this  I  did 
as  soon  as  it  was  safe. 


270 


NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP.        *  Of  the  remainder  of  the  melancholy  tale  of 

XIV  .      . 

^ — .-^  total  loss  of  the  "  Tigris,"  and  the  few  who  escaped 

SSJirt  to  fi^^  ^  shelter  on  board  the  "  Euphrates/'  you  are  yo 

Chwnw     ®^^^  ^^^^  acquainted.     I  have  only  to  repeat,  that 

Lieutenant  Cleaveland  and  Mr.  Charlewood,  and  ind< 

to  the  whole  crew  of  the  *'  Euphrates,"  the  high 

praise  is  due. 

*  I  have,  &c. 
(Signed)    '  J.  B.  Bucknall  Estcourt, 

'  Captain  43rd  Light  Infant 

'  Colonel  Chesney,  R.A.* 

^        .  Return  of  Officers  and  Men  belonging  to  the  Euphrc 

^hose  who  Expedition  who  were  lost  by  the  sinking  of 

in  the  '  Tigris  '  Sieam-vessel  during  a  violent  hurrid 

'^''^''  on  May  21,  1836. 


}f 


» 


RAJnS.  AND  KAXB8. 

Lieut.  R.  B.  Lynch 

lieut.  Robert  Cockbura 
Mr.  Yusef  Sader  . 
Mr.  John  Struthers 
Acting  Sergeant  Richard  Clark 
Gunner  Robert  Turner 
James  Moore  . 
Thomas  Jones . 
„       James  Hay 
Private  Archibald  McDonald 
benjamin  Gibson 
John  Hunter 
Oeorge  Liddel 
Thomas  Batty 
Thomas  Booth 
Abbo  . 
Wasoo 
Jacob  John  . 
Maimeh 
Pedros 


RBMABKS. 


(Signed)      II.  RLOsa>: 


r21st  Bengal  Native  Infa 
I     (Passenger). 

Royal  Regiment  Artille 

Interpreter. 

Engineer. 


Royal  Regiment  Artille 


Royal  Sappers  and  Min< 


Seamen. 


Natives. 


Lynch,  Lieut.  Indian  Nav 


INSTRUCTIONS   FROM   THE   INDIA   BOARD.  271 


CHAP. 
XIV. 


Extract  of  a  Letter  from  Sir  John  Hobhouse  to 
Colonel  Chesney^  dated  India  Boards  \st  June^ 
1836. 

'  I  HAVE  received  your  letters  of  the  18th  of  March  sirj.  Hob, 

house  to 

and  tlie  16th  April,  with  their  enclosures.  Coionei 

'  They  have  been  submitted  to  the  King,  and  have 
afforded  to  His  Majesty  the  highest  satisfaction  ;  I  may 
say  the  same  both  of  my  colleagues  and  myself,  and  I 
trust  that  you  and  the  officers  under  your  command 
will  believe  that  your  exertions  are  fully  appreciated  by 
His  Majesty's  Ministers. 

'  My  last  instructions  directed  you  to  terminate  your 
labours  by  the  end  of  next  July,  as  by  that  time  all 
the  funds  already  granted  by  Parliament,  as  well  as 
those  for  which  it  is  my  intention  to  apply,  will, 
according  to  the  estimate  with  which  you  have  fur- 
nished me,  be  exhausted ;  but  as  your  last  letter  informs 
me  that  during  the  month  of  July  you  will  be  employed 
in  ascending  the  river,  I  am  not  willing  to  bring  the 
Expedition  to  a  close  until  you  have  completed  the 
enterprise,  and  I  have  therefore  now  the  honour  to 
inform  you,  that  you  are  authorised  to  continue  in 
your  command,  and  pursue  the  objects  of  your  mission, 
until  the  end  of  January  next  (1837). 

*  By  this  arrangement  you  will  have  ample  time  to 
complete  the  surveys  of  the  river,  and  to  repeat 
(perhaps  more  than  once)  the  ascent  to  Port  Wil- 
liam.' 


272  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.        The  following  was  the  reply  to  my  despatch  of 
>J^i^  May  28  :— 

Letter  from  Sir  John  Hobhouse  to  Colonel  Chesney. 

<  India  Boud,  Jal729, 1896. 

Sir  J.  Hob-  *  Sir, — ^I  have  the  honour  to  acknowledge  the  receipt 
Colonel  of  your  letter,  with  the  enclosures,  dated  May  28, 1836, 
c  eaney.  f^^  Anna,  convcyiiig  to  me  the  afflicting  intelligence  of 
the  loss  of  the  *'  Tigris."  I  scarcely  need  assure  you  that 
His  Majesty's  Ministers  most  sincerely  deplore  the  loss 
of  the  brave  men  who  perished  on  that  occasion,  and 
that  they  sympathise  with  you  in  deeply  regretting 
that  so  great  a  calamity  should  have  occurred  at  a 
moment  when  the  complete  success  of  the  enterprise 
seemed  all  but  certain. 

'  I  have  also  to  convey  to  you  the  King's  condolence 
on  this  melancholy  event :  I  am  commanded  by  Fis 
Majesty  "to  assure  you  of  the  deep  and  heartfelt 
concern  with  which  he  has  learned  the  serious  disaster 
which  has  befallen  the  Expedition ; "  and  I  am  further 
commanded  to  say  the  King  "  cannot  express  in  terms 
too  strong  his  sense  of  the  extraordinary  and  admir- 
able exertions  and  presence  of  mind  which  were  dis- 
played by  all  concerned  on  this  trying  occasion,  or 
his  admiration  of  the  firmness  and  exemplary  re- 
signation with  which  those  whose  death  he  and  their 
country  have  to  deplore  met  their  fate.  His  Majesty 
sincerely  rejoices,  however,  at  your  providential  escape, 
and  that  of  Lieutenant  Lynch ;  and  he  gives  the 
credit  which  is  so  amply  due  to  you,  on  whom  rest 
the  conduct  and  responsibihty  of  the  enterprise,  for 
the  strength  of  mind  and  the  perseverance  which 
every  part  of  your  despatch  breathes,  as  His  Majesty 


SIB  JOHN  fiOBHOUS£'s  LETTER.  273 

does  also  to  your  gallant  and  zealous  associates,  for  the    chap. 
corresponding  spirit  which  rises  superior  to  difficulty  ^ — r-^ 
and  danger."  ^^f^"^ 

'Having  thus  conveyed  to  you,  in  His  Majesty's  ch^"^. 
own  words,  the  King's  sentiments  on  this  occasion, 
I  have  to  add  that  His  Majesty's  Government  wish 
to  express  to  you  their  entire  approbation  of  your 
conduct;  and,  although  the  official  account  of  the 
formal  examination  into  the  causes  of  the  disaster 
has  not  arrived,  that  they  are  fully  satisfied  that  every 
possible  exertion  was  made  to  prevent  the  catastrophe. 
I  beg  you  also  to  believe  that  you  have  determined 
wisely,  and  in  accordance  with  the  spirit  of  yoiu*  last 
instructions,  in  resolving  not  to  abandon  the  enterprise, 
but  to  attempt  the  further  descent  and  reascent  of  the 
river  with  the  remaining  steam-vessel. 

'  In  order  to  afford  every  facility  for  the  transmission 
even  of  a  second  mail,  should  you  be  so  fortunate  as  to 
make  two  ascents  from  Basrah  to  Bales,  I  have  this  day 
requested  my  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty 
to  direct  the  Admiral  at  Malta  to  send  the  "  Tartarus  " 
or  some  otlier  vessel  to  the  Orontes  or  Alexandretta  a 
second  time,  there  to  await  the  chance  of  your  repeating 
the  experiment ;  and  I  beg  to  add,  that  you  may  en- 
tirely  rely  on  receiving  every  support  and  encourage- 
ment which  maybe  required  for  a  fair  trial  of  the  great 
enterprise  in  which  you  are  engaged. 

'  I  request  you  will  communicate  to  the  officers,  and 
to  the  others  under  your  command,  the  extreme  satis- 
faction entertained  by  the  King's  Government  at  ^very 
part  of  their  proceedings. 

'  I  have,  &c.  (Signed)  *  John  Hobhouse.' 

T 


Hobliouse. 


274  NABRATIYE  OF  THE  EUPUBATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.  'Augusts. 

^  .  '  ^       *  The  Lords  of  the  Admiralty  have  this  day  signified 
^^?2J^     to  me  their  compliance  with  my  request  respecting  the 
•  Tartarus.'  second  voyage  of  the  "  Tartarus  "  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Orontes. — (Signed)  J.  H.' 

The  following  despatch  to  the  President  of  the  India 
Board  made  known  the  completion  of  the  descent  of  tlie 
Biver  Euphrates : — 

Letter  from  Colonel  Chesney  to  Sir  John  Hobhause. 

^  Basrah,  June  19, 1896. 

Coione  *  Sm, — ^The  accompanjring  letter  makes  known  the 

to  Sip  J.  arrival  of  the  "  Euphrates  "  steamer  at  Kuma  yesterday 
afternoon,  as  this  one  will  do  the  completion  of  the 
descent  and  detailed  survey,  as  far  as  tliis  city,  without 
anything  whatever  to  regret,  except  the  calamity  which 
befel  the  "  Tigris,"  and  rendered  the  best  efforts  of  our 
men  useless.  But  the  Expedition  is  still  quite  as 
efBcient  as  you  could  desire ;  and  having  this  day 
terminated  our  labours  for  the  present,  I  could  not 
refuse  the  gratificxition  to  myself,  and  all  who  have 
supported  me  so  zealously,  of  firing  a  gun  for  each 
year*  that  the  King  has  been  spared,  and  long  may 
His  Majesty  reign  over  his  most  devoted  subjects ! 

'  I  shall  not,  on  this  occasion,  do  myself  the  honour 
of  making  anything  hke  a  lengthened  report  on  the 
state  of  this  river,  which  is  much  more  favourable  in 
all  respects  than  I  had  ventured  to  hold  out  to  Govern- 
ment^ or  even  to  hope  it  would  prove. 

*  The  Sultan's,  French,  and  Austrian  colours  were  displayed  at  the 
same  time. 


•   FRIENDLY  RELATIONS  WITH  THE  ARABS.  275 

*  With  one  exception,  we  have  not  had  anything  like     ^,S^* 


annoyance  from  the  Arabs,  who  were,  on  the  contrary,  — • — ' 

Colonel 

quite  ready  to  supply  us  with  timber,  which  has  been  Chesney 
used  exclusively  since  we  left  Jabar,  and  they  received  Hobhouso. 
in  return  either  money  or  goods  in  barter.  The 
selection  of  common  Glasgow  and  Manchester  goods 
was  sought  with  the  utmost  avidity,  so  much  so  that 
money  was  discontinued  latterly  ;  and  it  is  quite  dear 
that  the  merchants  of  England  have  only  to  send  our 
manufactures  either  up  or  down  this  river  to  have  a 
ready  sale,  and  are,  as  far  as  I  can  see,  hkely  to 
increase  to  such  an  extent  as  will  benefit  the  nation; 
Nor  is  it  at  all  difficult  to  deal  with  the  Arabs.  Almost 
invariably,  they  either  sought  our  protection  or  friend- 
ship, and  in  several  instances  tribute  was  offered 
willingly ;  therefore  there  is  Uttle  reason  to  fear  that 
judicious  management  would  secure  peace  and  quiet- 
ness throughout  all  future  voyages. 

'We  are  now  about  to  prepare  for  an  ascent  with  the 
Indian  mails  on  the  9th  of  the  ensuing  month.  Depots 
of  coals,  &c.  are  already  placed,  and  altogether  the 
task  will  be  a  light  one  compared  to  what  we  have 
just  effected.  No  descent  or  ascent,  in  future,  can  be 
attended  with  the  same  degree  of  difficulty.  This 
vessel  came  over  the  ground  usually  at  the  rate  of 
twelve  miles  an  hour.  The  river  was  extremely  muddy, 
and  the  shoals  extending  under  the  thick  water,  for 
some  distance  above  the  islands,  could  not  be  perceived ; 
added  to  which  the  river,  owing  to  a  winter  of  unusual 
severity,  has  been  falling  eVer  since  we  left  Bales,  and 
therefore  to  have  run  aground  might  have  been  fatal ; 
but,  happily,  the  skill  and  zeal  of  Lieutenant  Cleaveland, 

T  2 


276 


NABRATITK  OF  THE  EDPHBATBS  EXPBDmOK. 


the  vessel  safely  through  everything ;  and  she  will 

ch^roej     return  with  the  waters  clear,  the  current  more  mode 

HobhmLe.  ^^^  ^^^  assistance  of  charts,  as  well  as  knowled^ 

the  river,  which  in  reality  is  all  that  was  wanting. 

'  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  &c., 

(Signed)  '  F.  R.  Chesse 

'  The  Right  Hon. 

'  Sir  John  Cam  Hobhouse,  Bart  and  O.C.B.,  &e. 
'  Presideiit  of  the  Board  of  Control,  Ac,  £c.' 

""^o"*'  At  the  British  Eesidency  of  Marghil,  near  Ba; 
a  memorial  of  the  loss  of  the  '  Tigris '  has  been  ere 
and  placed  in  the  quadrangle,  with  an  inscri( 
setting  forth"  the  names  of  those  who  perished 
the  account  of  the  disaster.  The  author  has  beer 
formed  of  this  gratifying  circumstance  by  Mr,  I 
Workman,  late  of  Bombay,  who  saw  the  mem' 
when  at  Basrah  during  the  Persian  campaign  of  H 


I 


277 


CHAPTER  XV. 

DESCENT  AND  SURVEY  CONTINUED,  FROM  ANNA  TO  BASRAH. 

TuE  officei-s  of  tlic  lost  *  Tigris '  were  now  ou  their  way  to     chap. 

XV 

England,  carrying  despatches  to  the  Home  Government ;  - — ^^--^ 
and  we  had  restored  our  remaining  steamer  to  a  state  ft^^Annl 
of  eflSciency  by  May  31,  and  resumed  the  descent  of 
the  river  on  that  day.  We  passed  between  the  left 
bank  and  the  string  of  islands  lying  opposite  to  Anna, 
which  at  this  date  extended  for  at  least  three-and-a-half 
miles  along  the  river,  and  then  brought  up  to  receive 
some  stores  from  the  town,  which  were  coming  off  in 
our  own  boats. 

During  the  delay  thus  occasioned,  Mr.  Ainsworth 
and  I  set  off  to  explore  ancient  Anna.  While  so 
employed  I  had  an  attack  of  ague,  which  at  that  time 
returned  periodically  on  alternate  days,  and  one  pecuhar  strange 
symptom  of  which  was  a  total  loss  of  memory  on  my  ague, 
part.  While  tliese  attacks  were  upon  me  I  could  not 
remember  my  own  name,  nor  the  termination  of  any 
word  that  I  was  in  the  act  of  writing  when  the  fit  came 
on ;  and  poor  Ainsworth  also  suffered  from  this  in- 
finnity.  Seeing  that  the  attack  was  imminent,  he 
urged  my  return  on  board,  with  which  I  complied ; 
and  finding  that  our  stores  had  arrived,  I  gave  the 
word  to  start,  and  we  steamed  down  the  river,  with- 
out the  faintest  recollection  on  my  part  that  one  of 
our  number  had  been  left  behind. 


278  IfABRATlTE  OF  THE  BDFHBATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.  Wc  had  a  rapid  ruD  of  67  miles,  steaming  dur 
• — r^— '  the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  along  that  extraoi 
nary  sweep  made  by  the  river,  almost  in  the  fo 
of  a  circle,  between  precipitous  hills  as  far  as  Fat-B 
Huddhr-Elias,  which  I  have  already  described.* 
could  scarcely  however,  by  any  description,  give 
idea  of  the  interesting  and  varied  scenery  throii 
wliich  the  voyager  on  the  Euphrates  passes  betw( 
Scenery  that  singular  spot  and  the  town  of  Hadisa.  1 
Uwiiia.  picturesque  islands — tlie  richly-wooded  banks — i 
frequently  recurring  villages  peeping  through  the  tn 
alive  with  busy  men  and  women  clad  in  tlie  grace 
Ai'ab  costumes,  with  the  el^ant  aqueducts  and  cres 
ing  waterwhecls — *11  combine  to  form  a  series 
pictures  scarcely  to  be  equalled  on  any  river  in  the  woi 
Iladisa  stands  on  one  of  the  above-mentioned  islan 
and  here  we  brought  up.  Dinner  followed,  as  usi 
when  om'  day's  work  was  over,  and  in  passing  by  Ai 
worth's  cabin-door,  I  tapped,  as  was  ray  custom,  to 
him  know  that  it  was  ready — when,  for  the  first  tin 
Mr.  AiM-  I  recollected  that  I  left  hira  absorbed  in  the  round  tov 
misted.  aid  Other  niins  of  Anatho  !  The  fact  that  he  was  n 
some  68  miles  behind  us,  without  food,  clothes,  moni 
or  any  resource  save  active  limbs  and  an  undauni 
spirit,  caused  me  painful  anxiety.  My  first  impulse  v 
to  steam  back  again,  but,  considering  that  this  con 
would  occupy  two  days,  and  that  we  might  miss  c 
geologist  at  one  of  the  bends  of  the  river,  I  decided 
Hcud  a  messenger  to  meet  him,  and  to  remain  whi 
we  were  until  we  should  hear  of  him.  To  our  gr 
delight,  he  reappeared  on   the   following   day. 


MB.  AINSWOBTH'S  SOUTARY  JOURNEY.  279 

soon  as  he  realised  that  he  had  beeu  so  unexpectedly     chap. 
left  behind,  Mr.  Ainsworth  determined  to  follow  us  as  , ' 


fast  as  he  could,  trusting  to  his  own  walking  powers,  J^;th  *^*' 
and  to  our  discovery  of  his  absence,  instead  of  looking  ^^^ 
to  the  people  of  Anna  for  any  help.     Starting  at  once, 
and  crossing  from  one  bend  of  the  river  to  the  other, 
and  thus  gaining  considerably  both  in  time  and  distance, 
lie  caught  us  up  at  Hadisa,  without  having  met  with 
any  more  serious  disaster  than  that  of  having  had  to 
part  with  most  of  his  clothes  and  all  his  little  stock  of 
money,  to  satisfy  the  cupidity  of  the  plundering  people, 
who  constituted  tliemselves  as  his  guides  for  the  sake 
of  enforcing  a  reward.     From  others,  however,  he  met 
with  much  kindness  and  assistance  during  his  solitary 
walk,  and  they  cheered  him  by  the  intelligence,  that  he  and  rejoins 
woidd  find  the  steamer  at  the  next  reach  of  the  river,  Hadisa. 
*  whither  she  had  come,'  they  said,  *  with  the  swiftness 
of  a  bird,'  and  where  he  was  most  warmly  welcomed 
by  us  all. 

The  moment  we  had  Mr.  Ainsworth  again  safely  on 
board,  we  got  up  steam,  and  soon  left  Hadisa  with 
its  magnificent  date-groves  far  behind  us.  The  river  . 
was  now  at  its  highest  level,  and  a  far  nobler  stream, 
therefore,  than  when  I  firat  saw  it  from  my  raft  in 
January  1831.  Its  course  was  much  less  winding 
than  it  had  been  above  Hadisa.  About  two  hours'  Width  of 
steaming,  at  the  rate  of  13^  knots  an  hour,  brought 
us  to  Jibba,  which  stands  on  an  island,  and  which 
had  suffered  so  severely  from  a  recent  storm,  as  to  be 
partially  in  rums.  The  scenery  between  Jibba  and 
Hadisa  was  decidedly  pretty — the  country  being  well- 
wooded  and  carefully  irrigated  as  usual. 


Commcr- 
villi  and 
nalurftl 
prodncts 
of  Hit. 


I 


KABRATIVE   OF   THE   ECPHBATES   ESPBDn-IOK. 

Next  morning,  soon  after  leaving  Jibba,  we  a 
upon  another  considerable  sweep  in  the  river's  cou 
scarcely  less  remarkable  than  that  above  Hadisa. 
reaching  tlie  rocks  of  Hajji-el-Karaf,  near  the  castle 
Al-Karaf,  it  runs  directly  north  for  the  distance  of 
miles ;  and  having  continued  its  course  in  tliis  direci 
for  about  ten  miles  more,  it  turns  abruptly  south 
nearly  five  miles,  to  Maadred  castle  and  mills.  The 
it  winds  to  the  south-east,  through  wooded  ba 
studded  with  mills  and  aqueducts,  as  far  as  the  towi 
Hit. 

Wo  arrived  at  Hit  sufficiently  early  in  the  < 
to  enable  us  to  visit  the  celebrated  and  inexhaust 
bitumen  fountains  of  this  place.  They  bubble  up  fi 
the  ground  with  sufficient  force  to  justify  this  desij 
tion,  aTid  the  value  of  the  bitumen  as  an  article  of  ti 
can  scarcely  be  overestimated.  It  was  used  by 
largely  ?ur  the  purposes  of  fuel  for  the  steamer,  w 
sufficiently  consolidated  by  an  admixture  of  earth, 
answered  evcrj'  purpose  of  coal.  As  cement,  its  vi 
was  well  known  to  the  ancients. 

The  salt-pits,  the  lime-quarries  and  sulphur-mi 
and  the  long-celebrated  tepid  mineral  springs  of 
were  also  all  visited  by  us  at  this  time.  The  nat 
productions  affi^rd  ample  and  remunerative  employE 
to  the  people  of  the  town  nnd  neighbourhood, 
process  of  boatbuilding  at  this  place  has  been  aire 
described.*  The  people  are  such  adepts  in  this  ti 
that  a  large-sized  boat — capable  of  containing  s 
20  tons — is  often  b^un  and  finished  in  one  day 
their  materials  being  found  on  the  spot. 


KALAT  RAMABI  TO  FELUJAH.  281 

From   Hit  I  forwarded  a  letter  by  messenger  to    chap. 

XV 

Bagdad,  requesting  that  a  supply  of  money  might  be  — r-^ 


sent  to  meet  us  at  Hillah,  and  resumed  the  descent*  of 
the  river  the  next  morning,  leaving  the  town  enveloped, 
as  usual,  in  as  dense  a  cloud  of  smoke  and  bitumen- 
steam  as  any  of  our  own  manufacturing  cities.  The 
river  continued  broad  and  deep,  and  particularly 
favourable  for  steam-navigation.  The  scenery,  how- 
ever, is  less  picturesque  below  than  above  Hit.  We 
had  left  behind  us  the  aqueducts,  and  entered  on  the 
region  of  the  ugly  though  equally  eflScient  water-skins. 
The  system  of  irrigation  we  found  everywhere  remark-  irrigation 
ably  complete,  and  attended  with  proportionate  fertihty*  country, 

.  .  .  1  1  •     ^^^  con- 

and  luxuriant  vegetation.      The   villages  below   this  sequent 
jx)int  are  chiefly  built  of  stone,  but  occur  at  rarer 
intervals  than  the  mud-and-reed  structures  higher  up 
the  river,  which  here  rather  increases  in  width. 

At  midday  we  passed  Kalat  Kamadi,  a  pretty  little 
town,  standing  on  high  ground  above  the  right  bank 
of  the  river.  At  this  season  both  its  banks  are  covered 
with  the  black  tents  of  the  Bedawin,  the  whole  way  Bedawin 
from  Kalat  Kamadi  to  Felujah,  which  place  is  87  miles  m^tt™^' 
from  Hit  by  water,  the  windings  of  the  river  being  con- 
siderable. During  the  whole  of  this  distance,  the 
Euphrates  is  extremely  favourable  for  all  ordinary 
navigation,  and  perfectly  safe  for  a  small  steamer, 
with  the  single  exception  of  the  camel's  fords  of  Abu 
Sisa  and  Busheab,  where  the  water  is  rather  shallow. 

As  it  was   desirable   to   connect   the   City  of  the  ^^p^ 

Estcourt 

Khaliphs  with  our  survey,  in  addition  to  the  still  more  and  Mr. 
important  object  of  obtaining  supplies,  it  was  decided  detnchedto 
that  Major  Estcouit  and  our  astronomer  should  go  to 


5AS£^tnT  or  THE  EETHKAnS  EXECDITION. 

BagiiMj  f-jc  these  pmpoees ;  anl  tbcy  acowdiogly 
'  Uf  at  Feiujah.  acc^mpuiied  br  Doctor  and  Airs.  He 
uA  Mr.  Cbariewood  also. 

On  the  monuDg  of  June  6,  our  descent  and  su 
were  resumed.  We  passed  the  Castle  of  Macdam, 
followed  the  windii^  of  the  river,  threading  our 
.  amidst  it£>  numerous  Uljind^  until  we  reached  Musse 
TO  miles  below  Felujab,  a  town  containing  about 
hou:^«s.  Almost  opposite  to  it  is  a  floating  bri 
ha%-iug  a  movable  centre  to  £acilitate  navigatiotL 
was  opened  for  us  the  nest  morning  as  we  approach 
aiiil  we  passed  through  and  steamed  on — our  wl 
party  under  the  influeace  of  those  indeacribable  feel 
attending  a  first  visit  to  Babylon.  The  river  be 
Musseycb  bicreases  in  depth,  becoming  somewhat  i 
rower  at  the  same  time,  and  flows  between  ne 
unbroken  belts  of  the  most  luxiuiaut  date-gro 
wliich  almost  entirely  conceal  from  view  tlie  uiuuei 
villages  which,  at  this  part  of  its  course,  stud  t 
banlw.  Ilere  and  there  we  could  perceive  their  w 
buildings,  peeping  tlirough  the  thick  dark-green  folii 
As  we  approached  Babylon,  these  dato^roves  beci 
denser  and  richer,  and,  but  for  the  occasioual  Ufc 
parted  to  them  by  the  villages  and  their  iuhabita 
would  have  been  monotonous  from  their  continu 
hne  of  verdure. 

We  anchored  at  the  western  part  of  the  ruins,  wl: 
former  experience  had  taught  me  was  the  best  poin 
start  from,  intending  to  carry  our  examinations  on 
far  as  llillah,  where  we  hoped  to  be  joined  by  the  pi 
from  Bagdad.  We  lauded  therefore  cloae  to 
Miiji.'llebeli,  which   wc  asccuded  almost  immediat 


nVISQ  OP  BABYLON.  283 

aud  afterwards  visited  and  explored  every  part  of  the    chap. 
remaius  of  this  primeval  and  once  proud  city,  with  the  ^^^r-^ 
very  deepest  interest.     We  sought,  but  in  vain,  for  the  ^^  ^^ 
Lions'  Den,  which  I  had  entered  on  the  occasion  of  i^io^s' 

Den. 

my  first  visit  to  Babylon ;  but  its  arched  and  sloping 
descent  had  disappeared,  and,  to  our  great  disappoint- 
ment, no  traces  of  it  remained.  The  investigations  of 
scientific  travellers  had  taught  the  people  of  Hillah  the 
value  of  kiln-burnt  bricks  and  arrow-headed  charac- 
ter; consequently,  those  which  formed  the  Lions'  Den, 
when  I  saw  it  in  1832,  had  been  carried  away  and 
turned  into  money  long  since. 

I  found  this  to  be  the  case  with  other  parts  of  the  Destruc- 
tion of  the 

ruins  also.     The  massive  abutments  of  the  Hanging  ruins  of 

B&bvlon 

Gardens,  and  the  remains  of  the  Kasr,  had  both  suffered 
from  these  depredations.  Our  whole  first  day  was 
spent  in  these  explorations,  which  to  me  had  lost 
nothing  in  interest  since  my  previous  visit;  and  the 
following  day  was  devoted  to  the  remains  existing  on  Remains 
tlie  right  bank,  to  the  north  of  the  town  of  Hillah,  right  lank. 
and  which  have  been  so  much  effaced  by  the  effects  of 
time  as  to  be  scarcely  traceable.  This,  however,  is  far 
from  being  the  case  with  the  famous  Birs  Nimriid,  Birs 
which  still  maintains  its  majestic  appearance  on  the 
right  bank,  at  what  seems  to  have  been  the  extreme 
termination  of  these  vast  ruins.  We  deferred  oiu:  visit 
to  this — one  of  the  most  wonderful  of  man's  works — 
and  to  the  tower  on  its  summit,  until  after  the  return 
of  our  party  from  Bagdad,  and  then  left  Hillah,  and 
resumed  our  descent  towards  the  Persian  Gulf. 

We  were  not,  however,  to  get  off  quite  so  pleasantly 
as  we  had  expected.     We  had  been  on  very  friendly 


284 


NABRATIVE  OF  TH£  EUPH&ATBS  EXPEDITIOK. 


CHAP. 
XV. 

*— « — — 

Sudden 
lifwtility 
of  the 
pc<i{>le  of 
lliiluh. 


pci'tt^ 
tumult. 


Punt  fent 
for  iiitelli* 
gt-nce. 


Tho 
apology. 


terms  with  the  people,  and  our  steamer  had  been  c 
stantly  visited  by  lai^e  numbers,  both  of  men 
women ;  but  just  as  we  were  preparing  to  leave  Hil 
with,  as  we  believed,  most  amicable  feelings  on 
sides,  a  sudden  and  unexpected  change  took  place. 
Boss,  who  had  travelled  with  our  party  fix)m  Bag 
to  this  place,  came  sufficiently  near  to  announce 
us,  in  distinct  whisper  through  his  hands  as  a  spe 
ing  trumpet,  that  an  attack  by  the  people  of  the  tc 
was  imminent  Instantly  all  hands  were  called  to  qi 
tors,  and  our  vessel  left  the  bank  at  once,  and  steac 
tlirough  the  opening  of  the  bridge,  just  as  Hasr  Hass 
one  of  our  engineers,  appeared  on  the  bank  pursi 
by  60  Arabs,  plunged  into  the  river,  and  s>vam  oflF  to 
He  brought  the  intelligence  that  a  large  numbei 
the  inhabitants  were  collected  in  an  adjoining  str 
not  only  anned,  but  in  a  state  of  great  excitement. 
We  were  in  total  ignorance  as  to  the  cause 
this  outbreak,  and  thought  it  advisable  to  take  so 
means  of  ascertaining  whence  it  arose,  our  own  Siif 
being  now  secured.  We  tlierefore  lowered  a  b( 
and  sent  Major  Estcourt  and  Mr.  Bassam  to 
governor,  to  demand  an  explanation  of  this  cantempla 
attack ;  for,  seeing  that  we  were  well-prepared,  noi 
man  had  yet  dared  to  fire  upon  us.  It  now  came  i 
that  one  of  our  Arab  pilots,  who  had  left  the  vea 
instead  of  performing  the  duty  for  which  he  had  b( 
engaged,  had  spread  the  report  that  his  companion  \ 
forcibly  deUuned  on  board,  and  a  cry  •  To  arms  I '  was  I 
immediate  consequence  of  this  story.  The  goven 
assured  Major  Estcourt  that  this  tumult  was  qu 
opposed  to  his  wishes,  and  was  ixjminded,  in  ixjtu 


DEWANYAH  AND   LAMLUM.  285 

that  it  was  liis  duty  to  restrain  a  lawless  mob,  and  that,     chap. 
if  our  defensive  preparations  had  not  kept  tliem  quiet, 


he  would  have  been  answerable  to  the  Sultan  for  any  EBtwmrt's 
bloodshed  that  might  have  ensued.     Our  ambassadors  ^^^^' 
then  returned  on  board,  and  we  left  Ilillah,  our  anxiety 
relieved  as  to  our  actual  and  future  friendly  relations 
with  this  fiery  and  excitable  people. 

At  9  A.M.  on  June  11,  we  were  steaming  towards  Departure 
the  sea,  between  rich  gardens  and  plantations  of  mul-  j^uLh. 
berry,  fig,  and  pomegranate  trees,  with  the  Birs  Nim- 
riid   in   view  at  some   little  distance  from  the  right 
bank.      The  surrounding  country  was  much  flooded. 
Date-groves  still  constituted  the   principal  vegetation 
of  both  banks,  as  far  as  Dewanyali,  a  town  of  some  Dewanyah. 
size,   69.^   miles  below  Hillah.      Here   we   obtained 
a  supply  of  wood,  which  delayed  us  until  the  13th, 
when    we   passed,    after   frequent    windings    of   the 
river,  the  canal  leading  from  the  right  bank  to  Old 
liamlum.     The  body  of  water  was  necessarily  a  good 
deal  diminished  at  this  place,  the  river  being  partially  Lamium 

...  I  marshes. 

lost  m  the  marshes. 

We  brought  up  at  New  Lamium  in  the  afternoon.  New 
a  town  contammg  a  numerous  population  dwellmg  in 
prettily-constructed  reed-huts — which  are  portable, 
and  which  had  almost  all  been  removed  from  their 
usual  sites,  on  account  of  the  floods,  when  I  first  visited 
this  place. 

Here  the  channel  of  the  river  narrows  to  a  width  of 
from  only  100  to  150  yards  ;  and  we  found  it  already 
occupied  by  numerous  boats  and  some  small  vessels, 
one  of  which  measured  55  feet  long  by  22  feet  beam, 
which  caused  additional  difficulties  to  our  navigation. 


2SS  N'ARKATIVB  OF  THE  EUPIIHATES  EXPEDITIOy. 

ciiAP.        We  passed  to  tlio  right  of  Kalisli  Gistle,  and  a  1 

—^^-^—'  later  saw  tlic  river  of  that  name,  as  well  as  the  Uin- 

Khaii,  and  farther  on  the  castles  of  Muwaserah 

Mateniah  (or  Maturali).    The  latter  is  on  the  left  b; 

and  a  little  to  the  north  of  it  stand  some  fine  ruins,  wl 

n-ininded  me  of  the  Monnd  of  Pus.    They  bear  the  n 

Kiiiii-cif     of  Inik-Jakah-oi-Assayah  (place  of  pebbles),  and 

j^knii        supposed  to  mark  the  site  of  one  of  the  primeval  c 

^nvU).       — that  of  Ereoh. 

At  this  part  of  tlie  river  many  places  of  intc 

KHrm        f(ilIow  nii>idly  on  one  another.     Karra  Castle,  wl 

we  i)ass('d   on  the   left  bank,  was  succeeded  by 

saint's    tomb    of    Modekim.      Serayah    inlet,   con 

fnini  Pamawah,  followed,   and  a  litde  fai'tber  do 

Kannaiinh  Kiiriiiallah  Cftstle.    Kcretli  Castle,  and  inlet  thro 

the  left  bank,  were  passed  next,  and  finally  Kcra 

Castle,  wliicli   stands  on  a  considerable  arm  of 

Thp  tin*    Euphrates,  bearing  the  same  name.     Here  the  tl 

nfiiio         branches   of  the   river,  which  divide  and  How  s( 

Kuiilinlca  i        i>  i  e    r         ^ 

miniti-.  rately  from  the  town  oi  Jjamlum,  reunite ;  and 
marshy  flat  of  this  portion  of  its  course  is  succeeded 
a  varied  country,  while  the  sti-eam  itself  again  Ijcco 
dei;p  and  wide,  and  flows  between  moderately  high 
■well-wiKxlod  banks  as  fai-  as  El-Khudhr,  which  wc 
fixed  on  as  our  halting- place. 

Ki-  The  village  of  El-Klmdhr  stands  in  the  midst  of 

extensive  grove  of  poplars,  and,  as  we  "required  l 
to  carry  us  to  Ba.Hrah,  tlie  inhabitants  were  emplo; 
in  cutting  wood  for  us  during  the  evening  of 
arrival,  and  the  following  morning.  But  when  ca] 
iijion  to  resume  their  work  during  the  day, 
found  a  decided  unwillingness  on  their  part  to  ft 


r 


iJj 


r-\ 


HOSTILITY   OF  THE   PEOPLE   OP   EL-KUUDHR.  289 

their  engagement ;  and  Lieutenant  Murphy,  who  was    chak 
employed  in  taking  sights  in  the  Castle  of  El-Khudhr,  ' — r--^ 


sent  us  word  to  be  prepared  for  an  attack,  of  which  Hostility 

^      ^  .  of  the 

Lieutenant  Cleaveland  had  also  perceived  symptoms  ;  people. 
for  the  people  had  not  only  refused  to  continue  their 
work,  but  were  seen  preparing  their  muskets,  swords, 
knives,  and  other  arms.      Ignorant   of   any  possible 
cause  for  hostility,  Seyd  Ah  went  to  the  chief  of  the 
tribe    (the  Beni-Hakem)    for  an    explanation  ;    but 
the  only  reply  that  he  could  obtain  was  that  we  were 
cowards,  and  the  assurance,  coupled  with  the  most  inBoience 
opprobrious   epithets    possible,   that    if    we   did   not  chief, 
depart  instantly,  their  alUes,  who  had  been  summoned 
to  their  aid,  would  join  them  in  attacking  us.     Seyd  • 
Ali  therefore  returned  to  us  with  the  inteUigence,  that 
the  whole  population   of  the   place   was  in  a  state 
of  violent  excitement,  which   was  evinced  by  their 
commencing    their    war-dance,    moving    round    and  Arab 
round  in  a  circle  with  joined  hands. 

Mr.  Ainsworth  was  on  shore  at  this  time,  collecting 
botanical  specimens  in  the  adjoining  wood,  when 
we  perceived  that  the  Arabs  were  preparing  to  seize 
him.  I  and  several  of  our  party  instantly  landed,  and 
throwing  ourselves  between  him  and  the  excited  Reecneof 
crowd,  we  held  them  in  check,  and  protected  him,  worth, 
until  he,  and  the  rest  of  our  party  also,  safely  reached 
the  steamer.  Once  on  board,  we  might  easily  have 
left  the  Arabs  to  themselves,  had  we  not  felt  that 
our  moral  influence  would  have  suffered  from  such 
a  course.  Instead  of  retreating,  therefore,  we  steamed 
directly  up  to  the  wood  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
town,  where  the  mass  of  the  tribe  had  by  this  time 

u 


war-dance. 


290  NARRATIVE  OF  TIIE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    assembled,    in  the  hope  of   finding  some    opei 
> — r-^-^  for  negotiation. 

Enconnter       Instead  of  this  we  were  received  with  a  heavy 
liabs.  *     Fortunately,  none  of  our  party  were  struck,  altht 
Lieutenant  Cleaveland,  who  occupied  his  usual  posi 
on  the  paddlebox,  w^as  much  exposed.     Our  bulwi 
&C.  were  otherwise  almost  a  complete  protection, 
people  burned  to  return  this  attack,  and  it  was 
difficulty  that  I  restrained  tliem  for  the  momen 
the  hope  of  preserving  peace ;  but  as  a  dropping 
was  still  kept  up  against  us,  notwithstanding  our 
bearance,  we  discharged  a  broadside   of  grape 
canister  into  the  wood,  with  telling  effect.     Still 
i  Arabs  continued  to  fire  at  us,  and  we  gave  the 

Attack       second  discharge,  which  cleared  the  wood  at  once, 

eaaUe.  *     somc  consultatiou  on  their  parts.     An  attack  had 

been  made  upon  us  from  a  castellated  buildin< 

the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  but  the  discharge 

Congrove    rocket   and   two   or    three   Cohom   s 

it«  hEBty    caused  its  immediate  evacuation ;  and  some  himc 

eTacuatioD« 

of  an  adjoining  tribe  of  Arabs  were  seen  scamp< 
away,  to  the  infinite  delight  of  Madame  Heifer, 
contrary  to  my  orders,  came  up  the  companion- 
to  see  what  w^as  going  on. 

LeftTe  EU  Thjs  was  the  only  affair  attended  with  hostilil 
the  part  of  the  people,  which  occurred  throughou 
whole  Expedition.  We  had  to  quit  El-Khudhr  wit 
having  any  opportunity  of  obtaining  an  explani 

Expiana-    of  their  conduct  from  the  Beni-Hakem.      We 

tionofthe  ^ -t     ^  i«i         •titi 

affray.  afterwards  told  that  their  hostility  had  been  arouse 
our  having  (in  ignorance  of  tlieir  superstitions 
down  a  part  of  the  wood,  which,  owing  to  th^ir  Pe 
descent,  they  regarded  as  sacred. 


ARRIVE   AT  SHElKH-EL-SnUYUKH.  291 

The  river  below  El-Khudhr  was  literally  covered     chap. 

XV 

with  boats,  indicating  commercial  activity,  and  pre-  ^ — r-^ 
aenting  a  great  contrast  to  the  quiet  waters  through 
which  we  had  passed  for  so  many  days  higher  up  the 
stream.  Here,  on  the  contrary,  there  was  a  very 
considerable  population,  and  much  hfe  and  activity 
about  Kut-el-Amrah,  which  is  the  principal  seat  of  Kut-ei- 
the  great  tribe  of  the  Montefek  Arabs,  who  inhabit 
both  banks  of  the  river,  dwelling  amidst  groves  of  fine 
date  and  pomegranate  trees. 

Eight  miles  below  Kut-el-Amrah,  and  75  miles 
from  El-Khudhr,  is  Sheikh-el-Shuyukh,  the  commercial  Shcikh-ei- 
capital,  and  the  largest  town  which  is  permanently 
occupied  by  the  Arabs  on  the  Euphrates.  It  contains 
some  1,500  clay-built  houses,  and  as  many  tents, 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and  is  most 
pleasantly  shaded  by  vines,  fig  and  pomegranate  trees, 
interspersed  with  rose-bushes,  &c. 

A  gun  was  fired  from  the  steamer    at  sunset  to 

announce  our  arrival,  and  again  at  sumise  the  next 

morning  as  a  compliment  to  the  place.     A  supply  of 

-  wood,  for  which  we  had  made  an  arrangement  on  our 

arrival,  was  immediately  placed  on  board;  and   we 

prepared  to  start  early  the  next  morning,  in  the  fiill 

expectation  of  completing  the  descent  of  the  Euphrates, 

and  bringing  up  at  Kumah  in  the  evening.     In  point 

of  distance  this  was  quite  feasible,  the  river  being 

both  deep  and  wide ;  but  this  being  also  the  flood-  Last  day's 

season,  the  extent  and  turbid  condition  of  its  waters 

caused  us  some  difficulty,  at  certain  places,  in  making 

out  the  channel.     Occasional  villages  and  magnificent 

groves  of  date-trees  guided  us  pretty  well,    and   we 

u  '2 


292  XAKRATn'E   OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,     accomplished  the  75  miles  to  Xumah  in  Ti  hours, 
' — V-^   and  brought  up  in  the   evemng  at  the   junction  of 


Arrive  at    the  Euphrates   and  Karun,   and  alonc:side  the  date- 

Kumah.  ^  .  . 

groves  of  Kurnah — for  the  town  itself  is  completely 
hidden  by  these  trees.  The  dates  of  the  Euphrates 
are  celebrated  throughout  Arabia  and  other  parts  of 
the  East,  but  those  of  Kurnah  and  its  vicinity  are 
i>ate8        specially  larj^e  and  delicious,  and  justly  prized.    The 

of  the  Ell-  .  .  •f         ^MT 

phrates.  datcs  usuolly  imported  to  this  country  give  no  idea  of 
the  excellence  of  those  grown  on  the  lower  part  of  the 
Euphrates,  which,  with  a  little  rice,  form  the  principal 
food  of  the  inhabitants. 

But  to  return  to  Kurnah.  We  found  a  square  or 
ark-like-looking  vessel  *  lying  at  anchor  off  the  town. 
She  proved  to  be  a  Turkish  man-of-war,  and  we  conse- 
quently ex(»hanged  one  gim,  in  accordance  with  the 
usual  Turkish  custom,  and  anchored. 

Descent  The  dcsccut  and  survey  of  1,153  miles  of  the  great 

and  biirvey      ,  _  , 

completed,  rivcr  was  thus  completed.  It  now  remained  for  us  to 
follow  the  joint  estuary  of  this  and  the  sister  stream  to 

shntt-ei-     Basrah,  which,  under  the  name  of  the  Shatt-el-Arab, 
is  so  deep  and  wide  that  it  has  been  ascended  by  one- 
of  our  second-rate  line-of-battle  ships.f     Almost  the 
whole   of  our  fiiel  had  been  consumed  in  reacliing 

Reduced     Kuruali,  Consequently  it  took  us  five  hours  to  reach 

Bpeeil. 

*  Ark,  according  to  Bailey*B  excellent  dictionary,  signifies  a  laige 
cbeBt,  which  this  vessel  resembled. 

t  Tlie  '  Lion/  of  64  guns,  in  1800.  Daring  the  Persian  war  in  1857, 
a  fleet  of  the  largest  Indiamen  ascended  the  Shatt-el-Arab,  carrying  tht 
force  under  General  Outram  and  Ilavelock,  which  bombarded  and  cap- 
tured Mohanimerah  ;  and  such  was  the  depth  of  water  in  the  river  Hut 
a  vessel  of  the  size  of  the  '  Eastern  Monarch/  of  about  2,000  tons,  could 
lie  alongside  the  bank,  and  take  troops  on  board  without  the  aasi^tance 
of  a  boat. 


BOTAL  SALUTE  OFF  BASRAH.  293 

Basrah,  a  distance  of  only  43  miles,  with  the  reduced     chap. 

XV 

power,  which  was  all  that  we  could  keep  up,  even  by  ^ — .-^ 


burning  empty  casks,  and  any  other  available  articles 
that  could  be  spared  for  fuel.  The  roadstead  of  Arrireat 
Basrah  presented  what  was  now  to  us  a  novel  ™  ' 
scene.  In  addition  to  many  smaller  vessels,  there 
were  two  Indiamen  at  anchor,  besides  a  most  un- 
promising-looking 20-gun  ship,  bearing  a  Turkish 
admiral's  flag  at  the  main.* 

We  had  now  accomplished  the  entire  descent,  as 
contemplated  by  Government,  and  most  prosperously, 
with  the  single  exception  of  our  great  calamity  above 
Anna  ;  and  it  Vas  with  warm  and  grateful  hearts  that 
we  endeavoured  thankfully  to  acknowledge,  in  this 
distant  part  of  the  world,  the  effective  support  which 
had  been  given  to  the  Euphrates  Expedition.  Taking 
the  precaution,  therefore,  to  place  the  chronometers 
astern  in  one  of  our  boats,  to  avoid  concussion,  and  hoist-  comme- 
ing  the  royal  standard,  a  gun  was  fired  for  every  year  T^Ze 
that  our  gracious  Sovereign  William  IV.  had  been  spared  S^** 
to  his  devoted  people.  This  commemoration  of  oiu: 
arrival,  and  of  our  gratitude,  was  followed  by  visits  and 
sincere  congratulations  on  all  sides — including  the 
Turkish  Admiral,  the  French  Consul  (M.  Fontanier),and 
the  captains  of  the  vessels  in  port,  who  offered  us  any- 
thing they  had  in  the  way  of  supplies.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Basrah  came  also  to  see  the  wonderful 
little  vessel,  which  had,  as  they  truly  said,  come 
more  than  1,500  miles  through  wild  and  hostile  Arabs. 

As,  in  conformity  with  our  instructions,  we  were  to 

*  This  man-of-war  was  not  expected,  nor  indeed  in  any  case  prepared, 
to  go  to  sea,  and  it  was  said  that  one  of  her  bulkheads  had  been  replaced 
below  the  deck  by  a  brick  wall. 


A'ABRATIVE  OF   THE  EUPHRATES  EZPBDITIOK. 


ri^IwTa- 


asccnd  the  Euplimtes  with  the  Indian  miuls,  the 
urgently  necessary  repairs  of  our  vessel,  an 
establishment  of  dep6t3  of  fuel  at  certain  places 
tlio  ri%'er,  at  once  received  our  immediate  and  i 
attention. 

The  Turkish  authorities  had  kindly  placed  the 
yanl  of  Basrah  at  our  command,  and  we  natural 
peeled  to  find  there  all  that  would  be  requisite  I 
repairs  of  the  steamer.  But,  altliough  our  wai 
not  tie  in  books,  as  in  the  cjtse  of  Gil  Bias's  legac 
the  Bishop,  our  hopes  were  as  effectually  disapp< 
There  was,  in  fact,  but  httle  prospect  of  gettii 
requirements  supplied  at  this  port,  and  we  had  U 
the  difficult  question  of  bow  and  where  this  couj 
be  done. ' 


295 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

CR0S8IN0  THE   PERSIAN   GULF  TO   BUSHIRE  —  REFITMENT  OF  THE 
STEAMER,    AND   RETURN   TO   THE   LOWER   EUPHRATES. 

There  were,  in  fact,  no  means  of  refitting  the  steamer    chap. 

XVI 

at  Basrah ;  consequently,  our  only  alternative  was  to  ^ — r-^ 
proceed  to  Bushire  for  this  purpose,  which,  with  a 
steamer  only  suited  for  a  quiet  river-navigation,  pre- 
sented an  almost  insurmountable  difficulty.  It  was 
indeed  felt  to  be  so  by  us  all,  but  more  especially  by 
our  naval  officers,  who  assuredly  were  not  wanting  in 
enterprise  ;  yet,  as  there  were  no  other  means  of  com- 
pleting our  undertaking,  it  was  decided,  after  much 
serious  consideration,  that  the  attempt  to  reach  Bushire 
in  our  Uttle  '  Euphrates  '  should  be  made. 

We  moved  down  the  Shatt-el-Arab  on  the  afternoon  of  Descent  of 

the  Shatt- 

June  21,  leaving  Major  Estcourt  and  Lieutenant  Murphy  ei-Arab 
at  Basrah^  to  ascertain  the  magnetic  dip  as  well  as  the  Basmh. 
precise  astronomical  position  of  the  city.  The  weather 
was  not  very  favourable,  and  we  brought  up  during  the 
night  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  took  the  precau- 
tion of  putting  up  the  dead-Hghts,  and  securing  the 
windows,  which  were  very  httle  above  the  water  ;  and 
thus  we  passed  the  bar,  about  noon  next  day.  Under 
the  impression  that  there  was  some  danger,  our  course 
was  shaped  along  the  Persian  coast,  the  vessel  rolling 


21>I>  SARBATITE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXFEDmOS. 

CHAP,     most  uncomfortably  all  the  while,  as  m^ht  have  1 
— ^  .-^  expected  &x>m  a  constnictioa  so  totally  unsuited 

the  open  sea. 

Inefficient       We  had  two  pilots  OH  boatd,  who  were  suppose 

know  every  part  of  the  coast ;  yet,  without  givjn 

any  kind  of  warning,  we  suddenly  found  that  we 

passed  from  deep  soundings  to  only  five  feet  water ; 

^'^P'*"  in  an  instant,  we  were  in  the  midst  and  backing 

of  breakers,  with  one  dead-Ught  stove  in,  and  ana 

injured.    We  had,  in  fiict,  narrowly  escaped  run 

J*''>«      upon  a  bank  near  the  estuaty  of  the  Stiver  Inc 

ladiin.      where  all  might  have  been  lost,  had  we  not  seen 

breakers,  which  we  did  not  do  until  almost  too 

Having  placed  below  aU  the  weights,  guns,  &c.  w 

were  not  required  on  deck,  to  lessen  the  rolling, 

secured    the   windows,    dead-lights,  &c,  we  stea 

AiriT*  at    direct  for  Bushire,  with  a  fresh  wind,  which  howeve 

Bwhire. 

our  case,  still  gave  sufficient  cause  for  uneasiness,  tj] 
passing  the  island  of  Karrak  the  sea  became  calm, 
we  steamed  with  smooth  water  on  to  Bushire. 

War  We  found  a  frigate  belonging  to  the  Imdm  of  Mu 

and  other  large  vessels,  anchored  in  the  roadstea< 
well  as  two  cruisers  of  the  Indian  Navy,  the  '  Amh« 
and  '  Cyrene,'  from  both  of  which  we  were  greetec 
hearty  cheers  as  we  passed  to  our  anchorage  cloe 
the  Residency,  where  Captain  Hennell  now  heard 
the  first  time  of  our  successful  descent  of  the  Euphn 

^}*  rt  and  the  fatal  loss  of  the  '  Tigris.'  It  was  after  su 
when  we  arrived,  and  the  salute  was  necessarily  f 
poned  until  the  morning;  but  this  compliment 
duly  ])aid  to  ua  afterwards,  not  only  by  two  of 
Honourable  East  India  Company's  men-of-war, 


i 


REFITMENT   OF   OUR  STEAMER.  297 

also  by  the  frigate  of  the  Imdm  of  Muscat,  and  by  two    chap. 

XVT 

merchant-vessels  lying  at  anchor.  ^ — ^-I-^ 


We  now  devoted  ourselves  to  the  necessary  prepara-  Refitment 

of  thd 

tions  for  our  future  ascent  of  the  Euphrates.  Our  steamer, 
vessel  required  extensive  repairs  before  she  could  be 
fit  to  stem  the  current,  especially  after  all  she  had 
gone  through  between  Basrah  and  Bushire,  while  re- 
turning to  the  former  place  would  of  itself  be  a  serious 
trial  to  her. 

With  regard  to  our  first  great  object — that  of  re-  Kindness 
fitting — Captain  Hennell  at  once  offered  us  all  the  means  HenneU. 
which  the  Indian  Navy  could  command,  and  proposed 
to   send  to   the  station   at   Bassadore   for  additional 
supplies.     He  also  gave  us  the  accommodation  of  a  RemoTe 
hulk,  the  *  Sovereign  of  the  Seas,'  on  board  of  which  we  a'huik. 
immediately  removed   ourselves,  and   everything  be- 
longing to  our  vessel ;  and  with  an  additional  supply  of 
smiths  and   carpenters,   we    set  diUgently  to   work, 
knowing  beforehand  that  we  had  a  serious  task  to 
accomplish.     The  deck  required  caulking ;  repairs  were  Repairs 
needed  to  the  floats,  paddle- wings,  and  also  to  some 
part  of  the  engines ;  and  one  very  important  object  was 
to  manage  a  more  effectual  way  of  closing  the  windows, 
which  work,  in  addition   to  the  painting,  was  to  be  to  be 
completed  by  the  time  the  'Hugh  Lindsay'  should  ^I^Hiiii 
appear  to  tow  us,  as  we  expected  she  would  do,  across  ^'^^"J^* 
the  Persian  Gulf. 

But,  in  the  midst  of  these  occupations,  a  great  and 
very  unexpected  difficulty  arose.  Our  seamen,  having 
experienced  the  change  from  a  life  of  over-exertion  to 
one  of  almost  idleness,  lost  that  energetic  feeling  which, 
witlu)ut  any  exception,  had  hitherto  prevailed  among 


298  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  them ;  and  the  consequence  was  that,  on  July  4,  lieu- 
tenant Cleaveland  reported  that  they  claimed  their  dis- 
charge, in  conformity  with  the  articles  of  agreement. 
It  now  appeared  that  the  dangers  experienced  m  cross- 


XVI. 


The 
Beamen 
claim 
their 

^**^***^-    ing  the  Persian  Gulf  had  first  led  to  the  desire  to  end 

their  service ;  and  I  found,  with  much  disappointment, 

Difficulties  that  three  of  the  artillerymen  also  wished  to  quit  us,  and 

thu  de-      return  to  England.     This  was  a  serious  trial,  and  the 

™*°  *        more  so  as  it  had  come  when  we  were  fast  preparing 

the  steamer  for  the   completion  of  her  task  by  the 

ascent  of  the  river. 

Still,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  case  was  not 

altogether  hopeless,  and  I  therefore  took  the  course  of 

making  known  to  all  our  men,  that  about  five  months 

My  more  would  accomplish  our  enterprise ;  and  that  if  they 

j^^^      quitted  us  now,  instead  of  finishing  their  undertaking, 

l!^en.      *^^  ^^st  do  SO  with  their  own  means,  since  their  pay 

would  cease  on  their  leaving  us  ;  while,  as  r^arded  the 

danger  of  reaching  the  river,  I  had  made  provision  for 

this  reasonable  cause  of  alarm  by  arranging  that  our 

seamen  should  be  taken  on  board  the  vessel  destined 

to  tow  our  steamer  to  the  Euphrates — ^adding  that 

other  seamen  could  be   obtained,   should  they  keep 

to  their  resolution  of  returning  home. 

Seamen  After  somc  hesitation,  several  of  our  seamen,  and 

di»- 

chaiged.  nearly  all  the  natives,  persisted  in  their  wish  to  be  dis- 
charged ;  and  on  their  formal  application  to  this  effect, 
the  Resident  consented  to  take  steps  to  supply  their 
places.  With  a  view  to  the  accomplishment  of  this  most 
important  object,  I  went  on  board  the  *  Elphinstooe ' 
cruiser,  and  proposed  that  some  of  her  seamen  should 
join   the  Euphrates  Service,  for  which,  to   my  great 


MAIL  LINE  THBOUOn  TURKISH   ARABIA.  299 

satisfaction,  every  man  at  once  volunteered.      But  as    chap. 

XVI 

Captain  Sawyer  did  not  feel  justified  in  diminishing 


The'El- 
e 


his  crew  by  more  than  four,  we  were  promised  the  re-  phiLtooi 
mainder  of  our  number  on  the  arrival  of  the  *  Amherst '  ^^teer 
cruiser,  then  expected  from  Bassadore.  ^^  ^ajus 

In  addition  to  the  operation  of  refitting,  and  the  no  Serric©- 
less  difficult  task  of  obtaining  seamen,  a  Beport  was 
now  in  course  of  preparation,  by  myself  and  each  of 
the  officers,   on   the  practicability  of  navigating    the 
Euphrates ;  and  that  no  part  of  the  time  required  for 
carrying  out  these  arrangements  might  be  lost,  it  was 
also  proposed  to  open  a  temporary  line  through  Turkish  Tomporaiy 
Arabia — ^not  by  way  of  Basrah  (as  in  the  time  of  the  through 
Marquis  Wellesley's  Government  of  India),  but  by  the  Anbu. 
quicker  route  of  Grane. 

I  accordingly  crossed  the  Gulf  to  the  latter  place,  and 
made  arrangements  for  opening  a  communication  by 
this  line :  after  which,  having  forwarded  a  despatch  by 
dromedary  via  Aleppo,  I  returned  to  the  steamer, 
where  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  that  good  pro-  Despatch 
gress  had  been  made  with  her  repairs  under  Mr.  Fitz-  wAAieppo. 
James,  although  the  assistance  given  by  the  native  smiths 
and  carpenters  had  been  very  inefficient.     Our  expected  ProgreMof 
supply  of  coals  had  not,  however,  as  yet  arrived  from  steamer. 
Bassadore,  nor  had  the  remaining  number  of  seamen  been 
obtained  from  the  Honourable  East  India  Companjr's 
cruisers.     A  few  days  after  my  return  we  procured 
additional  assistance  in  the  way  of  workmen,  and  our 
prospects  gradually  brightened.     Supplies    came  in,  supplies 
most  opportunely  and   unexpectedly,   from  Bombay,  j[^i^. 
brought  by  the  clipper  barque  '  Sir  Edward  Compton,' 
which   vessel   had  been    specially  chartered  for  the 


# 


I 


300  NABBAnVE  OF  TUB  BDPHiBATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    purpose  of  bringing  us  supplies  with  all  posable  sp 

' — r-^  She  had  made  her  passage  to  Bushire  in  24  da3m, 

withstanding  the  n^uch-dreaded  south-west  mous> 

and  by  her  we  learnt  that  one  mail  had  been  forwai 

to  us  by  the  '  Shannon '  on  Jidy  5,  for  conveyance 

HuUfrom  the  Euphrates,  and  that  another  was  to  be  despat^ 

for  us  soon  afterwards  by  the  '  Hugh  Lindsay,'  for  1 

of  which  it  was  necessary  that  we  should  be  prepa 

An  order  from  the  Conunodore  in  the  Persian  < 

came  by  the  same  opportunity,   to  fumiah   us  ' 

the  requisite  number  of  seamen,  and  thus  one  ser 

difficulty  was  at  an  end.    That  of  crossing  the  ' 

still  remained. 

PrapMs-         ^6  At  first  thought  of  accomplishing  this  by  sb 

iw^°th«  ing  to  the  mouth  of  the  Indidn,  and  ascending  that  ri 

Fflraiui      gyj  gg  ^j^  would  still  have  been  attended  with  sc 

though  comparatively  slight  risk,  we  decided  to  ^' 

Towed       up,  and  we  finally  arranged  that  the  'Elphinstone'  shi 

■'^phin-     tow  our  steamer  to  the  entrance  of  the  Euphrates. 

'"^''        necessary  preparations  for  this  were  at  once  common 

Dead-lights  soon  replaced  our  jalousies,  and  the  j 

and  other  heavy  weights  were  stowed  below. 

were  alongside  the  *  Elphinstone '  on  July  25,  and  : 

our  funnel,  and  our  spare  officers  and  men,  on  bo 

only  keeping  a  few  volunteers  to  steer  the  '  Euphra 

with    Lieutenant  Cleaveland,    Mr,   Charlewood, 

myself.    The  weather  was,  on  the  whole,  modei 

during  our  voyage,  but,  owing  to  adverse  winds 

was  only   on  September  1  that  our  vessel   left 

R^  Mo-  'Elpliinstone,'  and  steamed  up  the  great  river  to  '. 

hammerah, 

lutelligcncc  of  Lieutenant  Murphy's  serious  illi 


DEATH   OP  LIEUTENANT  MURPHY,  R.E.  301 

had  reached  us  before  leaving  Bushire,  and  this  had     chap. 

.  XVI 

caused  Mr.  Ainsworth  to  hasten  to  him  at  once.     But  ^ — .-^ 
before  he  could  have  arrived  the  Basrah  fever  had 
deprived  the  Expedition  of  the  services  of  that  valuable 
officer  and  sincere  Christian,  who  never  knew  what  it 
was  to  have  a  personal  enemy.      Hi»  death  was  on  niness 
every  account  deeply  felt  by  us  all,  but  in  my  own  ^Lie?- 
case   this  sorrow  was,  if  possible,   increased   by  the  M^hy. 
reflection,  that  I  ought  not  to  have  allowed  my  lamented 
friend  to  expose  himself  (as  in  his  zeal  he  had  done)  to 
the  trying  chmate  of  the  Lower  Euphrates. 

The    inteUigence    of   Lieutenant    Murphy's    death 
awaited  us  at  Mohammerah,  and  we  heard  at  the  same 
time,  from  Major  Estcourt  and  Mr.  Ainsworth,  of  the 
dangerous  illness  of  Corporal  Greenhill,  which  induced  nineas  of 
us  to  steam  at  once  with  aU  speed  to  the  Eesidency  at  ^^Sil 
Marghil — a  distance  of  29    miles,  which  we  accom- 
plished in  less  than  three  hours  against  the  current —  Rapid 
and  to  return  the  same  afternoon,  with  the  invalid  itegha. 
on  board,  as  well  as  Major  Estcourt  and  Mr.  Ains- 
worth. 

We  thus  ascertained  that  our  steamer  had  not  lost  Stoamer'B 

capabili- 

any  of  her  capabiUties,  and  we  felt  equal  to  anything  ti««  «»»»"*- 

psin*d. 

that  might  be  required  from  us.  An  inmiediate  oppor- 
tunity for  usefulness  presented  itself.  The  '  Cyrene ' 
(East  Lidia  Company's  cruiser)  had  come  into  Moham- 
merah without  bringing  the  missing  Indian  mail  from 
Grane  ;  and,  as  we  could  not  commence  the  ascent  of 
the  Euphrates  without  it,  we  had  thus  a  Uttle  time  on 
our  hands,  which  I  thought  it  best  to  employ,  until 
the  arrival  of  the  *  Hugh  Lindsay,'  in  ascertaining  the  Karun  and 
capabilities  of  the  Rivers   Kan'm   and   Bah-u-Mishir,  Mishir. 


302  NABKATIVE   OF  THE   EUPnBATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    both  which  examinations  had   been   originally  com- 
— r-^  prised  in  the  contemplated  objects  of  the  Expedition. 


The  survey  of  the  river  at  and  above  Mohammerah 

had  been  already  completed  by  Major  Estcourt,  and  we 

therefore  entered  the  Karun  on  the  morning  of  August 

7,  and  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Bah-a-Mishir  with  its 

splendid  date-groves.     Steaming  upwards,  we  passed 

the  head  of  the  dry  channel  of  the  Karun-el-Amarah 

Survey       (Blind   Karuu),    its    waters    having,   doubtless,  been 

Karto.       absorbed  by  the  canal  already  described.*     We  saw 

occasional   tent-villages,  and   proceeded  without  any 

interruption,  until  a  little  short  of  Ismaih,  where  the 

water  rather  failed  us ;  and  as  we  had  no  time  for 

delay,  we  did  not  attempt  to  pass  this  sliallow  place, 

Return  to    but  Steamed  back  to  Mohammerali,  after  thus  comple- 

nj^ah. '     ti^g  ^h®  ascent  of  the  Karun,  as  far  as  was  practicable. 

It  is  a  fine  river,  with  a  depth  of  3^  fathoms  even  in 

the  low  season,  and  with  an  average  width  of  from  180 

Dewsrip-     to  190  yards.     Its  banks  are  partially  wooded,  and  but 

Karun,       thinly  inhabited,  the  people  preferring  the  interior  of 

the  country,  where  they  are  less  exposed  to  the  dreaded 

Aniza  Arabs. 

Having  ascertained  the  navigability  of  the  Eiver 
Karun,  not  only  by  the  body  of  its  waters,  but  also  by 
the  size  of  the  'bagalAs*  (large  boats  with  lateen  sails), 
which  pass  to  and  fro  constantly  between  it  and  the 
neighbourhood  of  Shuster,  we  turned  with  much  interest 
March  of    to  the  examination  of  the  route  by  which  Alexander  the 

Alexander 

the  Great.   Great  reached  Susa  on  his  return-march  fix)m  India. 
With  this  object  we  descended  the  Bah*a-Mishir,  and 

*  See  Chapter  VL  pp.  101, 102. 


ABBANG£MENTS  FOB  THE   MAILS.  803 

on  finding,  from  its  depth  and  width,  as  well  as  from     chap. 

XVI 

the  size  of  the  passage-vessels,  that  it  possessed  every  ^ — r-^ 
facility  for  navigation,  we  steamed  back  to  our  station, 
and  were  not  a  day  too  soon.    Lieutenant  Daniell,  of 
the  Indian  Navy,  had  just  reached  the  Hafar  Canal  in  Arrival 
the  East  India  Company's  schooner  'Shannon,'  with  Bombay 
the    mail  from  Bombay.     This  caused  us  some  em- 
barrassment, inasmuch  as  the  immediate  ascent  of  the 
Euphrates,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  forward  this 
mail  without  delay,  would  have  caused  us   to  miss 
the   larger    and   more    important  mail  expected   by 
the  '  Hugh  Lindsay/  and  which  waa  just  at  hand. 

The  alternative   of  ascending  the  Eiver  Tigris  to  Decide  to 
Bagdad,  and  forwarding  the  mail  from  thence,  and  Tigris  to 
then  descending  the  river  vnth  all  possible  speed  to  ^^^ 
meet  the  'Hugh  Lindsay,'  presented  itself,  and  was 
at  once   decided  on.      We  hoped  by  this  arrange- 
ment to  be  able  to  dispose  of  both  mails,  provided 
the  Eiver  Euphrates  should  stiU  prove  to  be  navigable 
at  this  low  season  of  the  year.     On  this  important 
question,   however,  doubts  existed  as  to  the  practi-  Doubts  as 
cability  of  a  successful  ascent,  which,  after  Ughtening  JJwatl^r 
our  vessel  for  this  piu^se  as  much  as  possible,  I  ex-  phJ^ef "' 
pressed  in  a  despatch  to  the  President  of  the  Board 
of  Control,  stating  that,  'if  water  failed,  we  should 
put  about  without  hesitation,  after  sending  the  mail 
on  by  dromedaries.'* 

The  delay  entailed  by  the  unavoidable  repairs  of  the 
steamer,  and  the  subsequent  detention  of  the  mail  from 
India,  had  unfortunately  thrown  us  into  the  unfavourable 

♦  Despatch  of  August  15,  1836,  pp.  41  and  42  of  Communications  or 
De»patche.<*T  &c.,  ordered  to  be  printed,  February  22, 1836. 


NAEHATIVE  OP  THE   ECPHBATBS   EXPEDITION. 

season  for  the  navigation  of  Uie  Euphrates ;  still,  it 
with  confident  feelings  of  success  that  we  steamed  f 
Hohammerah  to  Basrah,  on  September  3,  to  k; 
fuel,  and  make  our  preparations  for  ascending 
Tigris. 


305 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

ASCENT  OF  THE   RIVER  TIGRIS  TO  BAGDAD,   AND   DESCENT  TO  MEET 

THE   INDIAN   MAIL  AT   KURNAH. 

Our  prospects  on  reaching  Basrah  from  Mohammerah    chap. 
were,  at  first,  anything  but  enqouraging ;  for  here  we  -  ^y^'  - 
lost  our  only  remaining  engineer,  Mr.  Calder,  and  his 
death  seemed,  at  first,  to  put  the  prosecution  of  our  en-  ^^^ 
terprise  entirely  out  of  the  question.     Happily,  how-  engineer, 
ever,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  all  difficulties,  an  available 
resource  was  to  be  found.     It  will  be  remembered  that 
some  of  the  men  of  the  Expedition  had  received  prac- 
tical instruction  in  working  the  engines  of  the  Birken- 
head ferry-boats,  among  whom  was  Corporal  (now  Ser-  a  sapper 

Appointed 

geant)  Black,  of  the  former  Koyal  Sappers  and  Miners,  to  work 

11  .  •  -I  •  T  ^0  engine. 

a  smgularly  energetic  and  persevering  man.  I  pro- 
posed to  him  that  he  should  undertake  to  work  the 
engine,  with  such  assistance  as  could  be  given  him  by 
our  artillerjnnen — to  which  he  readily  consented. 

Still  there  was  cause  for  uneasiness ;  and  I  should 
probably  have  felt  even  more  anxious  than  I  did,  if  I 
had  not  remembered  that  in  the  case  of  the  Niger 
Expedition,  when  the  death  of  the  engineer  and  his 
assistants  had  left  the  '  Quorra '  steamer  in  an  almost 
hopeless  predicament  on  the  Upper  Niger,  my  friend 
Macgregor  Laird  not  only  undertook  to  work  the 
engines    himself,    but    actually  did    so    successfully, 

X 


I' 

i' 


306 


CHAP. 

' — I — ^ 

Det4>nnine 
to  continae 
the  enter- 
priM. 


AwM'nt 
of  the 

oommeii'- 
ced. 


BiBtoa. 


Jlas-al- 

Khejran. 


NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  £2U'EDinON. 

until  he  brought  his  vessel  to  the  sea,  and  also  d 
her  passage  home.  We  therefore  determined  to  j 
under  these  disadvantageous  circumstances,  rathei 
abandon  the  enterprise ;  and  having  procured  a 
who  was  acquainted  with  the  river,  we  steamed 
Kumah  on  the  afternoon  of  September  14,  taking 
us  the  French  Consul,  Monsieur  Fontanier,  wh< 
shown  great  kindness  to  our  lamented  astronc 
tliroughout  his  illness,  and  whose  state  of  healtl 
dered  a  change  from  Basrah  desirable. 

The  ascent  of  the  Tigris  commenced  on  the  afte 
of  September  15,  and  passing  the  Tomb  of  Ezi 
brought  up  for  the  night  at  Janchu,  having  asc 
rather  more  than  38  miles  of  river  during  that  aftei 
with  an  average  depth  of  from  2  to  6  fathom 
a  width  of  200  yards.  The  water  was  necessaril 
at  this  season,  so  that  we  were  prepared  for  some 
culty  in  the  ascent,  which,  in  one  or  two  places,  c 
us  to  lose  time.  Thus  we  accomplished  only  S3 
in  6  J  hours  to  the  village  of  Bistoa.  The  next 
the  river  still  winding  very  much  through  w< 
banks,  we  made  our  way  onwards  with  less  diflS 
the  depth  varying,  as  before,  from  2  to  6  fathoms, 
bend  of  the  river  is  so  exactly  like  another,  thi 
pilots  have  to  place  stones,  to  enable  them  to  distir 
between  the  difierent  reaches,  to  which  they  give 
rate  names. 

As  the  river  improved  in  depth,  so  our  pp 
became  more  satisfactory,  and  we  made  67f  m; 
Eas-al-Kheyran  during  this  day.  On  the  next,  fi 
that  we  were  passing  through  a  more  populous  d 
than  had  hitherto  been  the  case,  the  Sultan's  < 

•  Lieutenant  Murphy. 


I 

I 

:• 


ii 


■ 


I' 

I! 


It 


£il.5 


KUT-EL-AMRAn.  307 

was    displayed    at  our  masthead.      The  river  flows     chap. 

.  .  XVII. 

between  high  and  well-wooded  banks,  winding  very  --    .   '  ^ 
much,  and  varying  in  breadth  from  200  to  400  yards. 
We  brought  up  about  dark  at  El-Medlia  :  on  the  18th  Ei-Mediia. 
we  passed  two  shallow  places,  and  with  them  got  over 
all  present  difficulties — the  rest  of  the  navigation  being 
favourable  during  our  ascent  of  54  miles  to  Kiit-el-  Kut-d- 
Amrah.     In  itself  this  place  is  of  no  importance,  but 
its  position,  immediately  opposite  to  the  embouchure  of 
the  Shatt-el-Hie,  gives  it  some  consequence.    The  latter 
river  crosses  Mesopotamia  in  a  diagonal  direction,  till 
it  falls  into  the  Euphrates  at  the  small  town  of  El- 
Askuh  or  El-Arju. 

We  quitted  Kut-el-Amrah  on  the  morning  of  Septem- 
ber 21,  the  British  and  Turkish  ensigns  flying,  intending 
to  reach  Tauk-Kezra  before  night.  More  than  half  the 
distance  to  Bagdad  had  now  been  accomplished  with  very 
little  difficulty,  but  the  state  of  the  river  rendered  the  re- 
mainder of  this  day's  navigation  very  intricate  ;  in  fact, 
we  had  to  proceed  so  cautiously,  that  we  barely  accom- 
plished ten  miles  in  four  hours.  The  river  presented  a 
wide-spread  surface,  but  was  evidently  so  shallow,  that  shallow 
we  had  very  little  expectation  of  our  vessel  being  "vcr. 
able  to  pass  at  all.  Still,  as  we  had  observed  that  the 
large  boats  which  navigate  the  Tigris  river  managed  to 
pass  up  and  down  even  at  this  season,  we  determined 
to  make  the  attempt. 

We  made  a  most  careful  examination,  not  only  by 
soundings,  but  also  by  means  of  our  two  pilots,  who  went 
into  the  water,  and  by  wading  and  swimming,  as  the 
case  might  be,  ascertained  where  a  passage  was  prac- 
ticable ;  and  we  steamed  ahead,  with  the  expectation 

X  2 


VI 


I 


308  NABRATIVE   OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 


aground. 


CHAP,    of  reaching  deeper  water  before  long.     To  our  c 
i  I  jc\iL  ^  pQiiitingnt,  our  steamer  grounded  again,  in  what  t 

Steamer  out  to  be  a  blind  passage,  and  the  hope  of  rea 
Bagdad  seemed  to  be  almost  at  an  end.  The 
morning,  however,  whilst  we  were  employed  in  lig 
ing  and  floating  the  vessel,  the  boats  and  pilots  : 
nately  discovered  a  passage,  which  we  succeeded  i 
L  lowing  under  very  novel  circumstances. 

i  I  The  pUoto       Occasionally  swimming,  but  more  generally  wt 

I    I  trace  out  a 

I  chaaueL     the  two  pilots  followcd  the  winding  channel  i 

j  '  the  water  had  made  for  itself  along  the  bed  o 

river.  They  marked  its  course  by  means  of  a  d 
row  of  sticks  and  willow-branches,  and  the  vessel 
followed,  along  the  passage  thus  carefully  tracec 
into  the  opener  part  of  the  river,  when  she  ste 
onwards  with  comparative  ease  to  Al-Hamarah  ji 
which  is  42^  miles  from  El-Bune.  The  next  dj 
experienced  some  delay  when  passing  througl 
islands  and  shallow  water  near  Debouny,  whi 
Mother  of  about  midwav  to  Um-el-Bul,  or  Mother  of  Drum 

Drum-  *^ 

men.  so  named  from  the  sound  caused  by  the  reverbei 
of  the  water  against  the  rocks.  We  ascended  35 
this  day,  but,  owing  to  a  succession  of  sandy  islel 
shallow  water,  we  barely  made  19  miles  durin 
24th,  to  Zerviya. 

Failure  Our  progrcss  had  also  of  late  been  a  good  de 

tarded,  in  consequence  of  a  failure  in  the  supply  o 
expected  from  Basrah ;  green  wood  was  our 
resource,  and  this,  as  a  matter  of  course,  was  bui 
the  expense  of  time.  But  at  this  halting-place  a  t 
ble  supply  of  wood  was  obtained,  and  our  ascen 
prosperously  continued  until  we  anchored,  after 


CTESIPHON  AKD  BAGDAD.  309 

eight  miles  short  of  Ctesiphon,  having  steamed  rather    chap. 
moi^  than  53  miles  during  the  day.  ^^^ 


Early  on  the  following  morning  the  Eesident's  boat 
arrived  from  Bagdad,  bringing  Dr.  Eoss,  to  renew  the 
acquaintance  which  he  had  commenced  with  ns  at  the 
moment  of  the  Arab  tumult  at  Hillah. 

From  Ctesiphon  our  ascent  was  resumed  with  more  5^^^, 

\  CteBipnon. 

experienced  pilots,  and  we  felt  confident  of  reaching 
Bagdad  in  time  for  supper.     We  had  examined  the 
crumbling  ruins  of  Ctesiphon,  and  walked  to  see  the 
extensive  arch  of  Tauk-Kezra,  while  the  steamer  was 
navigating  the  great  bend  made  by  the  Tigris  at  this 
place,  and  then  continued  our  ascent  until  a  shoal 
place  brought  us  up  opposite  to  the  Eiver  Diyalah ;  and  Diyaiah 
here  we  remained,  our  disappointment  being,  if  possible,  "^®'' 
enhanced  by  the  knowledge  that  we  were  scarcely  three 
miles  from  Bagdad  in  a  direct  line.     During  the  after- 
noon of  August  30,  we  steamed  the  remaining  nine  miles  visit  of 
by  water,  and  Colonel  Taylor  came  on  board,  and  was  Taylor. 
saluted  with  eleven  guns.     As  we  approached  the  city 
the  bridge  was  thrown  open.     Our  salute  was  retxurned 
from  the  Eesidency ;  and  we  steamed  through  the  bridge  Arrival  at 
towards  evening,  into  the  midst  of  the  wondering  popu-  ^*8*^- 
lation,  which  covered  the  roofs  of  every  house,  when 
one  individual,  placing  his  head  between  his  knees,  was 
heard  to  call  out,  with  great  emphasis,  *  Has  God  been 
pleased  to  make  only  one  such  creation  ?  ' 

Our  entrance  into  Bagdad  carried  me  back,  in  recol-  Reminis- 

C6I1C08  OX 

lection,  to  the  commencement  of  that  singular  train  of  Bagdad, 
events,  which  had  this  day  reached  its  culminating- 
point  by  our  steamer's  arrival  at  this  city.     For  it  was 
here,  as  fer  back  as  1831,  that  Colonel  Taylor  and  myself 


310  NARRATIVE  OF  TQ£  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP     took  the  first  steps  for  submitting  to  the  consideration 
^-^  .  ^'  of  the  Home  as  well  as  the  Indian  authorities  the  infor- 


mation which  had  been  obtained  concerning  the  state 
of  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris.     And  as  various  drcum- 

KeiP08i)€ct.  stances,  which  led  step  by  step  to  the  organisation  of 
the  Expedition,  had  cliiefiy  originated  at  this  place, 
the  arrival  of  our  steamer  at  Bagdad  was  one  of  the 
most  triumphant  moments  in  the  progress  of  the  under- 
taking. 

The  present  low  state  of  the  Tigris  rendered  its 
navigation  so  tedious  that  we  decided  to  give  up  any 

Rpsoiveto  fuiilier  ascent  of  the  river,  and   to  return  with  all 

return  to 

Kumah.  spccd  to  Kumah.  Our  coal-boats,  however,  had  not  yet 
arrived — consequently,  cutting  wood  for  fuel  was  our 
only  resource.  During  tlie  delay  thus  occasioned,  tlie 
good  people  of  the  city  had  fi^ee  access  to  our  vessel,  of 
which  a  large  number,  including  many  veiled  fair  ones, 
freely  availed  themselves — keeping  at  the  same  time 
close  to  the  bulwarks  by  way  of  protection. 

i>?ave  Our  descent  was  commenced  on  September  5,  the 

i^"g^i^.  walls  and  houses  on  each  side  being,  if  possible,  more 
crowded  with  spectators  than  when  we  made  our  firet 
entiy  into  Bagdad.  My  old  friend  and  our  valuable  pilot, 
Getgood,  made  his  appearance  most  unexpectedly  that 
morning,  having  came  across  from  Anna  on  hearing 

Getgood      where  we  were.     He  came  in  order  to  be  useful  to  us, 

comes  01*  T     ,  T 

board.  and  brought  an  account  of  the  present  state  of  the 
Euphrates  with  reference  to  our  approaching  ascent. 
Our  first  day's  run  was  suddenly  cut  short,  after  we  had 
steamed  22  miles,  by  our  running  into  a  bank,  which 
had  been  suddenly  formed  by  one  of  those  changes  to 
which  this  river  is  constantly  liable.     After  some  dehy 


DESCENT  OF  THE  SIVEB  TO  KUBNAH.  311 

we  resumed  the  descent,  and  repassed  first  the  mouth     chap. 
of  the  Diyalah,  then  the  ruins  of  Ctesiphon  and  Tauk-  ^ — r-^ 
Kezra,  and  reached  Al-Mosul,  where  we  brought  up  for  5^°^  of 
the  night,  after  having  steamed  54  miles  in  the  course  and  Xauk- 
of  the  day. 

Sixty  miles  on  the  following  day  brought  us  again 
to  the  difficult  passage  a  little  above  Kut,  where  we 
anchored,  that  we  might  have  time  to  examine  the 
course  of  the  river,  and  ascertain  its  present  depth  of 
water.     But  the  obstacles  we  had  experienced  at  this  Th» 

difficult 

spot  during  our  ascent  were  much  lessened  by  our  channel 
lines  of  marking-rods,  which  we  unexpectedly  foimd 
still  remaining  where  our  pilots  had  placed  them, 
thus  tracing  out  the  channel  of  the  river  for  us  without 
any  further  trouble.  The  passage  itself  also  was  rather 
deeper  and  wider  than  it  had  been  when  we  had  pre- 
viously passed  through  it,  so  that  we  reached  Kiit-el-  Kut^i- 
Amrah  witli  very  little  difficulty,  having  previously  made 
20  miles.  Not  finding  the  supply  of  coal  which  was  to 
have  met  us  at  this  place,*  we  were  scarcely  able  to  get 
up  any  steam  with  the  green  sappy  wood,  which  was  all 
that  we  could  procure  the  next  morning ;  and  we  had  the 
additional  vexation  and  delay  of  running  on  a  bank  at 
Al-Maudaten,  which  is  46  miles  below  Kut-al-Maklia.     S"h*^" 

Mftklia. 

It  required  two  days  of  energetic  exertion  to  get  our 
vessel  afloat  again,  and  two  more  to  reach  Kumah. 
This  town  is  about  232  miles  from  Kut,  and  431  miles  AmTeat 

jLumah. 

fix)m  Bagdad.    The  latter  distance  only  occupied  55 
hours  under  steam,  but,  owing  to  the  serious  delay 

*  We  afterwards  learnt  that  our  coal-boats  had  been  stopped  on  their 
way  up  the  Tigria;  in  coniBoquence  of  some  misunderstandiiig  with  the 
AxabflL 


312  KABSATITE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXFEDmOK. 

CHAP,    caused  by  the  £Gulure  of  coals,  as  well  as  by  roD] 

XVII  . 

*  I  ' — r— ^  aground  several  times,  the  voyage  occupied  ra 

1  f  Time         more  than  11  days.    We  found  the  *  Hugh  Lind 

i  hTuie        waiting  for  us  with  the  Indian  mails,  but,  on  the  o 

:  I  ***"        hand,  we  leamt,  with  some  surprise  and  no  little 

J  easiness,  that  our  ordinary  supplies  of  meat,  bread, 

■'  '  had  been  withheld  by  the  people  of  the  town,  who 

I  ,  Unex.        been  in  such  a  state  of  alarm  and  excitement, 

I  WiHtj     regard  to  oiu*  ascent  of  the  Euphrates,  that  they 

P^rt  o*f  the  appealed  for  protection  to  the  Sheikh  of  the  MonI 
^™**'  Arabs,  who  had  given  orders,  in  consequence,  not  ob 
attack  the  larger  steamer,  but  also  to  bum  our  \ 
if  she  attempted  to  ascend  the  river.  We  like 
found  that  it  was  by  his  orders  that  our  coal-boats 
been  detained. 
What  was       How  bcst  to  meet  this  unlooked-for  change  in 

to  be  done.  ,       _  •  i  •  rri 

prospects  reqiured  consideration.  To  attempt  to  as 
the  river  amidst  anything  hke  determined  hostilit 
the  part  of  the  Arabs  would  have  been  rash  in 
extreme  ;  but  if  the  present  ill-feeling  arose  only 
some  temporary  misunderstanding,  it  became  our 
to  try  to  clear  it  up,  and  re-establish  finendly  relal 
while  my  knowledge  of  the  Arab  character  led  n 
believe  that  we  should  accomplish  this  much  : 
effectually  by  pursuing  a  decided  rather  than  a  t 
course. 
Lettw  to         Our  first  step  was  to  procure  a  pilot,  coals,  an 

the  Sheikh  f        /»  Tk         i  rm 

of  the  our  necessary  supplies  Irom  Basrah.  The  next  w 
send  a  letter,  to  inform  the  Sheikh  of  the  Montefek 
we  intended  decidedly  to  ascend  the  river,  if  pos 
on  a  friendly  footing  with  him  and  his  people, 
quite   prepared    to  resist  and    signally   punish 


u 


^     -_ 


-  ^ 


r.  II    rv-* 


LETTER  TO  THE  SHEIKH  OF  THE  MONTEFEK. 

thing  like  hostility  on  their  part.  This  document  wa 
sent  by  a  special  messenger,  with  all  due  form,  and  th 
steps  thus  taken  were  made  known  to  the  officers  c 
the  Expedition,  coupled  with  the  information  that  w 
were  at  once  to  proceed  up  the  river  with  the  mail 
just  received  from  India. 

The  *  Hugh  Lindsay '  commenced  her  retum-voyag 
on  October  18,  leaving  two  passengers,  Messrs.  Stewar 
and  Alexander  (the  latter  an  invalid),  to  accompany  u 
up  the  Euphrates  on  their  way  to  England. 


PUILLSC     ^ 


314 


irAESATIVB  OF  THE  SUFHBATB8  BXFEDITION. 


CHAPTER  XVm. 


CHAP. 

xvm. 


Causes  of 

Arab 

hostility. 


The  ascent 
com- 
menced. 


ASC£NT  OF  THE  RIYER  EUPHRATES  TO  I'HE  LAMLUH  MABSHES — DES- 
CENT TO  BASRAH — THE  COMMANDER  PROCEEDS  TO  INDIA  TO  MAKE 
ARRANGEMENTS  TO  CONTINUE  THE  EXPEDITION,  LEAYIHa  MAJOR 
ESTCOURT   IN   COMMAND. 

During  the  short  delay  which  occurred  previous  to 
the  arrival  of  our  pilot  from  Basrah,  some  light 
was  thrown  upon  the  hostile  proceedings  of  the 
Sheikh  of  the  Monte^k,  which  were,  it  seems,  caused 
by  the  belief  that  we  were  not  only  about  to  seize  and 
fortify  Kumah,  but  that  we  also  meditated  an  attempt  to 
induce  the  Arabs  to  become  Christians.  They  were, 
no  doubt,  in  some  degree  justified  in  the  latter  belief,  by 
the  tradition  of  the  country  that  they  were  all,  both 
Turks  and  Christians,  to  be  subdued  and  forced  to 
conform  to  the  rehgion  of  an  European  Power.  The 
discovery  of  the  shght  foundation  on  which  their 
enmity  rested  made  me  look  forward  hopeftilly  to 
the  re-establishment  of  our  previous  friendly  under- 
standing with  the  Arabs;  and  with  this  object  in 
view,  I  determined  to  take  such  a  course  as  must 
show  them  that  I  placed  perfect  confidence  in 
their  good  faith. 

We  commenced  our  ascent  of  the  Euphrates  early  on 
the  morning  of  October  20.  The  river,  although  lessened 
both  in  depth  and  width,  was  still  imposing,  and  the 


\ 


CANOES  OP  THE  EUPHRATES.  815 

^nged  its  banks  was  most  luxuriant     chap. 


XVIII. 

^ —    ■^ 


^heikh-el-Shuyukh.     We  steamed 
^  day  against  the  current,  and 

"^  ^%  ae  of  the  greatest  life  and  ani- 

L  was  crowded  with  large  '  bagalAs' 
liich  at  this  season  of  tlie  year  are  em- 
collecting  dates,  and  innumerable   canoes 
oRimming  along  the  surface  of  the  water  in  all 
.sections. 

The  latter  are  chiefly  framed  of  reeds,  and  are  low 
and  long,  like  the  Esquimaux  canoe,  with  the  exception 
that  those  of  the  Euphrates  are  coated  with  bitumen.  Canoes 
instead  of  being  covered  by  skins.  The  stem  and  Euphrates. 
stem  of  these  canoes  are  ahke,  so  that  they  move 
either  way  with  equal  facility,  and  are  propelled  by 
one  man  sitting  in  the  stem,  or  (in  the  case  of  boats  of 
a  larger  size)  by  a  man  at  each  extremity.  A  light 
awning  of  striped  cotton  covers  this  boat,  which 
is  paddled  with  a  degree  of  speed  scarcely  inferior  to 
that'  of  the  swiftest  Esquimaux  canoe.  They  are 
understood,  however,  to  be  of  Persian  origin,  rather 
than   to  be  in  any  way  connected  with  the  Polar 


During  this  day's  ascent  we  met  with  a  great  Enormous 
natural  curiosity.  A  carp  of  enormous  size  had  been  *^'^' 
eft  on  the  river's  bank  by  the  receding  water,  of 
which  Mr.  Charlewood  gives  the  following  description 
in  his  journal : — '  Yesterday  we  passed  an  enormous 
fish  lying  high  and  dry  on  the  bank.  It  was  at  least  4 
feet  thick  at  the  shoulders,  and  15  feet  long, — in  fact, 
much  longer  than  any  shark  I  had  ever  seen,  being 
more  like  a  young  whale  than  anything  else.' 


316  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EZPEDITIOK. 

CHAP.        This  monster  was  not,  however,  quite  new  to  me.    I 

XVIII.  T 

' — r— ^  had  ah^ady  seen  two  other  specimens  of  the  carp, 


which  Pliny  has  described  as  attaining  this  great  me ; 
and  the  people  of  Aleppo  speak  of  this  fish  as  being  a 
load  for  two  camels.  The  waters  of  the  Euphrates, 
however,  abound  in  fish  of  many  kinds  in  addition  to 
the  carp. 

Nothing  unpleasant  occurred  in  any  way  up  to  our 
arrival  at  the  densely  tliick  and  dark  mass  of  trees  which 
surround  the  Arab  capital  of  Sheikh-el-Shuyukh,  where 
the  houses,  or  (more  properly  speaking)  the  huts,  begin. 
Animonty  But  here  the  people  evinced  their  animosity  against 
Arabs.  US,  by  pelting  the  vessel  with  sticks  and  pieces  of  hard 
mud.  The  women  also  showed  their  anger  by  exposing 
their  persons  in  a  very  indecent  manner,  but  we 
passed  onwards  without  taking  any  notice  of  these 
hostile  demonstrations,  and  a  £riendly  reception 
awaited  us  on  our  anchoring  within  the  town. 

On  the  following  morning  the  cause  of  the  Arab  hos* 
tility  was  fully  ascertained.  Seyd  Ali,  who  had  just 
rejoined  us  firom  Bagdad,  whither  he  had  been  sent  for 
some  nuts  and  screws  for  the  engine,  explained  that  he 
had  found  the  Arabs  in  such  a  state  of  uproar,  that  he 
had  been  obliged  to  travel  by  night  to  avoid  danger, 
as  the  most  determined  hostility  existed  towards  our 
steamer  and  the  '  Hugh  Lindsay.'  This  excitement  had 
arisen  in  consequence  of  the  injudicious  distribution  of 
some  religious  tracts  among  the  Arabs,  which  had  been 
Indiscreet  brought  by  Mr.  Samuel,  a  German  missionary,  and  one 
ary  seal,  of  the  passeugcrs  by  the  *  Hugh  Lindsay.'  Some  of 
these  papers  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Sheikh 
of  the  Montefek,  and  he,  as  well  as  the  people  at  large, 


EXPLANATION  WITH  THB  SHEIKH  OF  THE  MONTEFEK.       317 

became  much  incensed  at  the  attempt  thus  made  to    chap. 

XVIII 

convert  them  to  Christianity.  * — r— ^ 

Having  thus  come  at  the  real  cause  of  our  un- 
pleasant position,  it  seemed  all-important  to  take  some 
steps  to  restore  the  good  understanding  which  had 
previously  existed  with  this  powerful  Sheikh  ;  but  how 
to  bring  this  about  was  an  anxious  question,  since  the 
safety  of  the  Expedition  might  depend  on  the  successful 
issue  of  our  measures.  Kesolved  to  do  our  utmost  to 
restore  peace,  we  left  the  people  of  Sheikh-el-Shuyukh 
behind  us,  and  an  hour  and  a  half  s  steaming  against 
the  current  brought  us  alongside  the  Sheikh's  spacious 
reception-tent  at  Kut-el-Amrah. 

Our  prospects  were  not  at  first  very  promising,  for  Miyor 
Major  Estcourt's  official  visit  was  met  by  the  not  un-  ©up  am- 
iisual  excuse,  that  the  Sheikh  was  in  his  harem,  and 
could  not  be  disturbed.     This  led  to  an  immediate  re- 
monstrance on  our  part,  founded  upon  the  detention 
of  our  coal-boat3  on  the  Tigris,  and  other  grievances  of 
which  we  had  latterly  had  cause  to  complain ;  while 
we  made  it  perfectly  clear,  at  the  same  time,  that  no 
step  hostile  to  Islamism  had  been  at  any  time  taken  by 
anyone  belonging  to  our  party.    This  statement  was  Expiana- 
repeated  to  the  Sheikh  through  an  officer  of  rank  belong-  shSkh. 
ing  to  the  Pacha  of  Bagdad,  who  was  on  a  mission  to 
Kut-el-Amrah  ;  and  the  chief  of  the  Montefek  at  once 
sent  his  aged  and  confidential  Vizir  on  board  our  steamer.  His  Vinp 
to  express  his  entire  satisfaction  with  our  explanation,  board, 
and  to  request  the  honour  of  a  visit  from  us.     To  this 
I  readily  consented,  and  a  salute  of  seven  guns  was 
fired  as  I  approached  the  Sheikh's  quarters. 

I  found  his  immense  circular  tent  occupied  by  some 


818  NASRATIVE  OF  THE  EUFHBATES  EXFEDITIOV. 

• 

CHAP,    four  hundred  of  the  tribe,  but  their  chief  himself  was 
^ — r-^  not  present;   and  the  moment  I  became  aware  of 
u>\hr^     ^^^^  breach  of  courtesy,  I  retired,  expressing  my  in- 
sheikh.       dignation   most  strongly  as  I  did  so.     This  dedded 
conduct  drew  forth  an  immediate  and  ample  apolc^, 
and  it  was  arranged  that  one  of  the  most  influential 
men  of  tlie  Montefek  tribe,  and  a  pilot  from  among  this 
people  also,  should  accompany  us  up  the  river,  to  punish 
the  people  of  El-Khudhr,  as  well  as  to  give  us  a  tangible 
proof  of  their  goodwill.     These  negotiations  occupied 
the  whole  day,  but  early  on  the  following  morning,  we 
Leave  Kut.  rcsumcd  our  course,  with  the  pilot  and  the  Sheikh's  re- 
presentative on  board.      The  river  was  winding,  and 
did  not  anywhere  exceed  from  2  to  5  fathoms  in  depth. 
Two  hours  beyond  Kut  we  stopped  at  El-Aijah 
Gumesh,  beyond  which  place  we  made  our  way  through 
oox^.asional  marshes,  and  found  the  river  literally  alive 
with   canoes.     About  midday  we  reached  a  shallow 
spot  in  the  river's  coiu'se,  and  towards  evening,  when  it 
had  become  almost  dark,  we  came  to  anchor  about  eight 
miles  short  of  El-Khudhr,  whither  we  proceeded  early 
Rohim       next  morning.     We  passed  the  wood,  and  anchored  at 

to  El-  °  ^ 

Khudhr.  tlic  opcn  spacc  bcyoud  the  trees,  when  we  discovered 
that  all  the  women,  children,  and  cattle  had  been  sent 
away,  their  canoes  sunk,  and  tlie  Arabs  themselves 
occupied  the  wood  in  force,  armed  with  matchlocks. 
They  had  stationed  themselves  also  in  the  two  castles 
near  El-Khudhr,  as  if  they  apprehended  an  attack. 

We  soon  made  it  clear  to  them  that  it  was  not  our 
intention  to  take  the  law  into  our  own  hands,  but  that 
we  proposed  to  leave  the  settlement  of  our  grievances 
to  the  great  Sheikh  and  his  delegates.     This  was  no 


DIFFICULT  NAVIGATION  OF  THE  LAMLUM  MABSHES.  319 

sooner  understood  than  the  women  and   cattle  were     chap. 
brought  back  to  their  houses,  and,  trusting  to   the  ^ — r— ^ 


Sheikh  so  to  deal  with  these  people  as  to  secure  future 
travellers  from  similar  wanton  hostihty,  we   left  El-  Leave  Ei- 

Khudhr. 

Khudhr. 

Our  navigation  went  on  most  satisfactorily  imtil  late 
in  the  afternoon,  when  we  grounded  in  the  shallow 
water  near  Karagun  inlet,  where  our  real  difficulties 
were  about  to  conimence. 

We  had  discovered  that  the  steamer  failed  to  answer 
her  helm  in  shallow  water,  and  that  it  would  be  neces- 
sary, in  consequence,  to  employ  trackers,  to  guide  her  at 
the  sharp  turnings  of  the  Lamlum  marshes,  which  we 
were  now  on  the  point  of  entering.  Seyd  Ali  had  already 
gone  to  Semavah,  to  procure  such  assistance  as  these 
circumstances  had  rendered  requisite,  more  especially 
for  the  part  of  the  river  near  Berga.      Accordingly,  80  Towed 

tlirongh 

Arabs  appeared  just  as  we  were  approaching  the  ex-  the 
pected  difficulty,  and  with  the  promise  of  hberal  remune-  manhes. 
ration  they   commenced   their    task  with   apparently 
hearty  goodwill — one  half  towing  on  one  side  of  the 
river,  and  the  remainder  on  the  other. 

We  were  quite  in  spirits  at  this  good  beginning,  and 
at  the  prospect  of  being  soon  through  the  marshes,  and 
in  the  more  open  part  of  the  river.  But  we  discovered 
tliat  to  help  us  on  was  in  reality  no  part  of  the  intention 
of  these  men,  and  that,  instead  of  being  useful,  their 
dehght  consisted  in  thwarting  us  as  much  as  possible. 
They  were,  indeed,  on  the  point  of  doing  this  most  Malicious 
effectually,  since  they  made  an  attempt  to  overturn  of  the 
our  vessel,  and  had,  in  fact,  all  but  accomplished  their 
mischievous  design,  when  it  was  happily  frustrated  by 


320 


NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOK. 


CHAP. 
XVIII. 


DiiBcnltj 
of  navigm- 
tiDgthe 
manhes. 


Engine 
disabled. 


The  mailf 
forwarded 
by  Mp. 
Fitzjames. 


Descend 

the  river 
with  one 
engine. 


one  of  the  hawsers  parting  in  the  middle  at  the  most 
opportune  moment.  Of  course,  on  discovering  their 
treachery,  they  were  at  once  discharged  from  our 
service.  They  did  not,  however,  return  to  Semavah, 
but  remained  on  the  river's  bank,  watching,  with  sullen 
disappointment,  our  efforts  to  get  through  the  marshes 
into  the  open  water,  by  means  of  anchors,  pulleys,  and 
hawsers.  While  we  were  thus  laboriously  working  our 
way  onwards,  our  endeavours  were  suddenly  and 
effectually  brought  to  a  close  by  the  discovery  that 
our  larboard  engine  could  no  longer  perform  its  worL 
What  were  we  to  do  now  ? 

We  were  all  aware  that  the  size  of  our  vessel,  her 
draught  of  water,  and  her  failure  in  steering  (especially 
in  shallow  places),  must  cause  serious  difficulties  in 
getting  through  the  marshes;  but  these  once  passed, 
we  had  anticipated  no  further  obstacle  to  our  successful 
ascent,  and  our  disappointment  was  proportionally  great 
on  finding  that  it  must  be  relinquished  for  the  present 

My  attention  was  at  once  turned  to  the  question  of 
forwarding  the  mails,  and  Mr.  Fitzjames  volunteered  to 
undertake  the  difficult  and  almost  solitary  journey 
which  their  conveyance  necessarily  entailed.  He  set 
out  on  October  30,  accompanied  by  our  two  fellow- 
passengers,  Messrs.  Stewart  and  Alexander,  and  encou- 
raged by  hearty  cheers  from  us  all,  which  were  kept 
up  until  they  were  quite  out  of  hearing.  Fitzjames 
and  his  companions  accompUshed  their  adventiux>us 
journey,  but  not  without  serious  difficulty • 

Tins  duty  attended  to,  the  warps  were  taken  on 
board,  the  paddles  unshipped,  and  other  arrangements 
made  to  enable  the  *  Euphrates'  to  commence  her 


DESCENT  TO   THE   LOWER  EUPHEATBS.  321 

descent,  which  she  did  on  October  31 — dropping  down     chap. 

XVIII 

the  stream  with  some  risk  and  even  damage  to  herself,  >- — . — ^ 
from  constantly  running  against  the  banks.  This  was 
only  while  passing  through  the  shallows.  Once  in  the 
open  part  of  the  river,  our  paddles  were  reshipped, 
and  we  were  steaming  down-stream  with  our  one 
effective  engine. 

We  were  already  off  El-Khudhr  on  November  3,  Ei-Khudhr 
and  lieard  one  or  two  shots  fired  as  we  passed.  We 
did  not  see  the  balls  strike  the  water,  but,  fearing  that 
they  might  have  been  intended  for  us,  we  rounded 
to  at  once,  and  remained  a  httle  time  close  to  the 
village ;  after  which,  observing  no  further  hostile 
demonstrations,  we  steamed  onward  to  Kut,  where 
we  received  fresh  assurances  of  support  from  the  great 
Sheikh,  who  even  went  so  far  as  to  express  his  readiness, 
on  any  future  occasion,  to  go  with  us  himself,  in  order 
to  make  sure  that  his  dependents  conducted  themselves 
properly.  Green  poplar- wood,  obtained  with  some  loss  Return  lo 
of  time  at  Sheikh-el-Shuyukh,  carried  us  down  to  Basrah 
at  reduced  speed,  and  we  brought  up  again  alongside 
of  the  *  Hugh  Lindsay '  on  November  8.  We  had  the 
great  satisfaction  of  finding  from  her  engineer  that  he 
was  provided  with  means  to  do  all  that  we  required, 
and  thus  we  had  the  unexpected  prospect  of  seeing  our 
little  vessel  once  more  efficient  without  much  delay. 

The  next  consideration  was  how  best  to  employ  the 
two-and-a-half  months  which  remained  to  us  up  to  Jan- 
uary 31, 1837,  at  which  period  the  funds  voted  by  Parha- 
ment  would  cease  to  be  available  for  the  Expedition. 
This  was  a  subject  of  most  anxious  thought  to  me. 
My  original   instructions,  emanating  from   the  India 

Y 


322 


NABBATIVE   OF  THE  EUmRATES  EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
XVILL 


Proposed 
furvey  of 
Indian 
riven. 


Pecide  to 
proooed  to 
Bombay. 


Major 
EHtcoort 
left  in 
command. 


Board,  were  to  the  effect  that  *  on  reaching  Basrah,  the 
Eicpedition  was  to  be  placed  under  the  command  of  the 
Bombay  Government'  *  It  had  been  considered  that 
the  arrival  of  our  two  river-steamers  in  the  Persian 
Gulf  would  give  an  opportunity  for  some  useful  service 
not  to  be  lost,  and  that  when  we  should  have  descended 
the  Euphrates,  the  vessels  might  accomplish  some  other 
important  object.  Accordingly,  instructions  were  given 
by  the  Supreme  Government  of  India  with  this  \new. 

But  by  the  time  these  orders  were  received,  the 
*  Tigris '  had  been  carried  to  the  bottom,  and  there  were 
no  longer  two  steamers  available  for  the  service  in  ques- 
tion— the  survey  of  the  Indian  rivers.  One  vessel,  it  is 
true,  was  still  effective,  and  a  good  deal  might  yet  be 
done  with  her  could  she  be  taken  to  the  Indus  witliout 
risk ;  but  as  this,  at  the  best,  could  only  have  given 
means,  on  a  crippled  scale,  of  carrying  out  an  extensive 
survey,  the  Supreme  Government  of  India  might  think 
it  unadvisable  to  continue  the  survey  in  Mesopotamia 
for  the  present.  These  points,  however,  could  only  be 
decided  by  the  Supreme  Government  in  conjunction 
with  that  of  Bombay,  and  it  seemed  advisable,  all  thinir? 
considered,  that  I  should  at  once  proceed  thither  f(;r 
instructions. 

I  therefore  arranged  that,  during  my  absence.  Major 
Estcourt  should  take  the  command,  and  that  as  soon 

•  *  Should  you  arrive  at  Basrah  by  descending  the  Euphrates,  you  will 
consider  yourself  to  be  under  the  command  of  the  Bombay  OovemmeDt. 
You  will  immediately  on  your  arriral  repair  and  refit  your  stoamboats, 
so  as  to  be  enabled  to  execute  any  orders  you  may  receive.' — l*art  of  L)rJ 
Ellenborough*s  letter  (No.  2)  to  Colonel  Chesrey,  dated  Januaiy  24,18.111 
Papers  ordered  to  be  printed,  February  23, 1836. 

Also  ibid.,  paragraph  11 :  *  On  your  arrival  at  Bombay  you  will 
place  yourself  under  the  orders  of  the  Bombay  Government.* 


MAJOR  ESTCOURT   SURVEYS  THE   KARUN.  323 

as  our  steamer  should  aeain  be  in  an  efficient  state,  the     chap. 

.  XVIII. 

Kariin  and  Bali-a-Mishir  should  be  carefully  surveyed ;  ^ — . — ^ 


and  that,  after  accomplishing  these  objects,  he  should 
ascend  the  Tigris  to  Bagdad,  and  be  prepared  to  break 
up  the  Expedition  at  that  city,  if  such  should  be  the 
decision  of  the  Indian  Government. 

At  the  moment  of  my  departure  for  India  under  these 
circumstances,  the  *  Euphrates '  was  steaming  towards 
Mohammerah,  where,  after  a  little  delay  for  fuel,  the 
contemplated  surveys  were  commenced,  some  account 
of  which  may  be  briefly  given,  almost  in  the  words  of 
the  distinguished  oflScer  under  whom  they  were  carried 
on,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Charlewood,  Ainsworth, 
and  Bassam. 

After   making   an    examination    of  the  Karun-el-  Ascent 
Amrah,  the  Dorak  or  Zelahiyah,  and  the  system  of  Karun. 
canals  in  that    neighbourhood  by  which  the  Eiver 
Jerahi  is  almost  drained,  the  party  passed  on  by  land 
to  Ahwaz  (the  ancient  Aginis),  where  they  found  the 
steamer  already  at  anchor  below  the  ledges  of  rock  which 
cross  the  Kariin.     These  rocks  being  impassable  for  our  Major 
vessel.  Major  Estcom-t  and  his  party  ascended  in  a  asSfto 
country  boat  by  Wais  to  Band-i-Kir,  at  which  place  the  ^^'^' 
two  branches  of  the  Karun  unite — that  called  the  Ab-i- 
Diz,  and  the  eastern  branch  al§o,  both  of  which  flow 
by  the  city  of  Shuster.  In  descending  from  Ahwaz,  the 
steamer,  after  making  a  fi-esh  examination  of  the  Bah-a- 
Mishir,  proceeded  by  Mohammerah  to  Basrah,  and  on 
to  Eumah. 

A  *  kufah,'  or  round  wicker-boat,  had  been  already 
sent  up  the  river  by  Major  Estcourt  with  coals,  in  addi- 
tion to  two  other  coal-boats,  which  it  was  now  found 

T    2 


324  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,    had  been  detained  by  one  of  the  Arab  sheikhs,  who 

xvm 
^ — ,— 1-  endeavoured  to  exact  tribute  in  contravention  of  the 

arrangements  which  had  been  made  with  the  head  of 
the  Montcfek.  These  boats  therefore  were  taken  in 
tow,  and,  to  the  astonishment  of  the  people  along  the 
Tigris,  the  steamer  proceeded  up  the  river,  dragging 
two  heavy  boats,  apparently  (as  far  the  people  could 
judge)  with  undiminished  speed.  By  the  time  they 
reached  Kut-el-Amrah,  one  of  the  boatloads  of  coal 
had  been  consumed. 

Christmas  Day  was  spent  between  the  sites  of  Ctesi- 
phon  and  Seleucia,  and   the  next  day  they  reached 
The  Bagdad.     Although  the  waters  had  not  beffun  to  rise, 

TfAches  says  Major  Estcourt,  it  seemed  advisable  to  start  at  once, 
and  to  await  their  rising  in  our  passage  upwards.  On 
January  2,  1837,  therefore,  the  bridge  of  boats  being 
unmoored,  the  steamer,  with  several  visitors  on  board, 
moved  past  tlie  Pacha's  palace  and  along  the  date- 
groves  and  gardeas  to  Kaymen,  and  upward  to  Sherriat- 
Ancient      el-Bcitlia,  the  presumed  site  of  ancient  Sittace.     Xext 

Sittace.  .  ^ 

day,  owing  to  a  gale  of  considerable  force,  the  sky  was 
obscured,  and  the  whole  atmosphere  loaded  with  dust, 
and  it  continued  thus  during  the  day's  ascent  of  20 
miles;  when  owing  to  shallow  water,  and  to  the  vessel 
not  steering  well,  she  ran  against  a  bank,  and  in 
doing  so  the  upper  ring  of  the  rudder  was  broken. 
Steering,  especially  in  shallow  water,  now  became 
out  of  the  question,  and  thus  an  immediate  return  to 
Bagdad  was  necessary  in  order  to  repair  the  injury,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  increase  the  size  of  the  rudder  so  as 
to  have  a  greater  command  over  the  vessel. 

But  by  the  time  this  alteration  was  completed  tlie 


r 


MA  JOE   ESTCOURT's   DESERT  J0UR2sT:Y.  325 

period  for  breaking  up  the  Expedition  had  arrived ;     chap. 
and  as  the  seamen,  more  especially  those  obtained  from  * — . — ^ 


the  cruisers  in  the  Persian  Gulf,  were  not  subject  to  the 
restraint  of  martial  law  (which  had,  in  the  first  instance, 
been  given  with  some  restrictions  to  the  Expedition),  they 
caused  so  much  uneasiness  by  their  conduct  that  it  was 
thought  advisable  by  Major  Estcourt  to  send 'away  the  Discharge 

_     -  ,  ,  -  ,  of  Bcamen. 

most  troubeisome  among  them,  and  return  the  others 
to  the  vessels  from  which  they  had  been  lent  to  the 
Euphrates  Service.  These  arrangements  being  made, 
and  the  steamer  left  in  charge  of  Mr.  Hector  at  Bagdad, 
Major  Estcourt  prepared  to  return  to  England  with  the 
rest  of  the  officers  and  men. 

Just  as  they  were  about  to  leave  Bagdad  on  their  way 
home,  authority  was  received  from  the  Government  of 
Bombay  to  continue  the  Expedition.     But  as  it  was  no 
longer  eflTective  in  point  of  men.  Major  Estcourt  at  once 
decided  to  carry  out  the   orders  previously  received 
from  the  Home  Government.     Accordingly,  on  Jan- 
uary 24,  the  party  started  on  camels  to  cross  tlie  desert  Major 
to  Damascus,  where  they  arrived  on  February  1 4,  after  party  cnL 
having  been  more  than  once  seriously  menaced  by  the     ^  ®*^^ 
Bedawin. 

One  of  these  threatened  attacks  occurred  near 
El-Kaim,  where  the  approach  of  a  body  of  horsemen, 
evidently  hostile,  menaced  the  little  party  with  serious 
danger,  which  Major  Estcourt  immediately  encountered 
by  placing  his  men  in  a  circle,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  meet 
an  attack  on  any  side.  Upon  this  a  flag  was  displayed  Attacks 
by  the  Arabs  on  a  spear-head  on  the  crest  of  a  hill  in  desert. 
the  rear,  on  which  signal  another  party  came  gallop- 
ing towards   them  from  that   direction,  whilst  many 


32  G  NARRATIVE  OP  TUE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOX. 

CHAP,    more  collected  from  the  other  hills  around ;  but  their 

XVIII 

' — , — '^  advance  was  checked  by  a  few  shots  from  some  of  th* 
cameleers.     They  were  now,  liowever,  in  considerable 
numbers,  and  enclosed  Major  Estcourt's  little  party 
withhi  a  circle  at  a  distance  of  about  100  yards;  but, 
seeing  that  everything  was  ready  for  their  reception, 
,  the  Arabs  contented  themselves  with  continuing  their 
warlike  demonstrations  for  a  time  without  doing  more. 
With  the  exception  of  tlie  appearance,  near  Palmyra, 
of  about  a  dozen  mounted  Arabs,  who  rode  away  on  find- 
ing there  was  no  opening  for  an  attack,  no  other  incidents 
of  this  sort  disturbed  the  even  tenor  of  the  httle  party's 
Arrival  of   dcscrt  joumcy,  through    Palmyra  and  Damascus  to 
Estcourt     Beii  fit,  and  thence  by  the  mail-steamer  to  England.  A 
in  Eng-      gratuity  was  given,  by  order  of  the  Government,  to  the 

land. 


remaining  seamen  and  soldiers,  as  an  acknowledgment 
of  their  very  exemplary  and  meritorious  services;  and 
the  artillerymen,  as  well  as  the  sappers  and  miners, 
were  returned  to  their  own  corps  with  that  markeil 
approbation  which  their  conduct  and  exertions  had  so 
well  deserved. 


327 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

REACH      BOMBAY — REFERENCE      TO      THE       OOTERNOR-GENERAL — DAK 
JOURNEY  TO  THE   INTERIOR   OP   INDIA — RETURN  TO   BOMBAY. 

It  was  from  the  deck  of  the  '  Hugh  Lindsay '  that    ^¥^' 
I   took  my  last  look   at  our   vessel,  then  preparing  ^-' — • — " 
to  leave    Mohammerah,  to  complete   the  service,  of 
which   I  have    given    an  account  in    the    preceding 
chapter. 

The  *  Euphrates'  steamer  had  been  to  me  an  object  of  Take  leave 
the  deepest  interest  for  the  last  two  years ;  and  it  was  *  Euphra- 
with  mingled  feelings  of  thankfulness  for  the  past,  and  steamer. 
of  anxiety  as  to  the  future  success  of  this  our  initiation 
of  the  great  Euphrates  Eoute  to  India,  that  I  took 
what  proved  to  be  my  farewell  look  at  the  vessel  as  we 
descended  the  Shatt-el-Arab. 

The  *  Hugh  Lindsay '  reached  Bushire  on  November 
17,  took  in  a  supply  of  coal  at  Bassadore,  and  another 
at  Muscat,  and  reached  Bombay  on  December  1. 

I  was  received  with  the  greatest  kindness  by  the  Arrive  at 
Governor  of  Bombay,  Sir  Eobert  Grant,  and  his  Lady, 
at  their  summer  residence,  Parell ;  and  I  had  the  still 
higher  gratification  of  finding  that,  both  there  and  else- 
where, the  strongest  interest  existed  in  the  grand  question 
of  an  overland  steam-communication  between  England 
and  India  vid  the  Euphrates.  But  how  to  promote 
and  assist  this  object  was  the  great  consideration  with 


328 


NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDrn05. 


CHAP. 
XIX. 


Rtfferonce 
to  tho 
(iowmor- 
GoiitTal 
uf  Indi:i. 


Intoro8t 
fU  I^)mba7 
in  tho 
overland 
oonimuni- 
cation  with 
England. 


Wont  of 
knowledge 
of  Httum- 
power. 


US  all,  more  especially  as  to  how  far  the  present  Expe- 
dition might  be  made  available  for  this  purpose. 

I  ventured  to  propose  to  the  Governor  in  Couucil 
to  open  the  Red  Sea  and  Euphrates  Lines  for  alteriiato 
monthly  communications  to  England,  experimentally, 
for  twelve  months.     This   however,    it  was  decidi'd, 
was  a  question  for  the  decision  of  the  Supreme  Govern- 
ment of  India.     Consequently,  my  arrival  was  at  once 
reported  to  the  Governor-General,  while  I  expressed 
my  readiness  to  proceed  to  Calcutta,  as  the  best  mean< 
of  entering  fully  into  the  steam-question.     The  poiuti 
to  be  decided  were — 1st,  whether  the  present  Expedi- 
tion should  be  continued ;  2ndly,  whether,  if  it  were 
to  be  broken  up  on  January  31  (as  previously  con- 
templated), the  remaining  steamer  should  be  taken  to 
the  Indus,  in  accordance  with  our  original  instructions, 
or  not. 

During  the  time  which  must  necessarily  be  allowed 
for  the  arrival  of  an  answer  to  my  letter  to  the 
Governor-General,  all  those  concerned  in  the  question, 
especially  the  mercantile  community  of  Bombay,  were 
keenly  alive  to  the  necessity  of  organising  the  overland 
Une  of  communication  with  England  at  once,  and  it 
was  even  proposed  to  raise  money  for  this  purpose  on 
the  spot.  But  steam-na\igation  for  lengthened  or 
distimt  voyages  was  still  in  its  infancy,  and  although 
some  persons  considered  that  a  large  and  powerful 
steamer  might  reach  the  Persian  Gulf  during  the 
south-wTst  monsoon,  a  passage  to  the  Bed  Sea  during 
that  season  was  almost  universally  regarded  as  quite 
impracticable.  The  public  mind  being  impressed  with 
these  objections,  it  is  not  suiprising  that  doubts  and 


THE  EUPIIEATES  QUESTION  IK  CONXECTION  WITH  INDIA.  329 

possible  difficulties  should  have  stood  in  the  way  of  the     ch^vp. 
practical  development  of   this  great  question  at  that  * — r-^ 


time. 

That  there  should  be  any  hesitation  as  to  its  imme- 
diate adoption  now — when  science  has  triumphed  over 
all  the  natural  obstacles  which  seemed  so  formidable 
thirty  or  forty  years  ago — must  be  a  matter  of  surprise 
and  of  deep  regret  to  all  thoughtful  and  practical 
men,  who  see  and  acknowledge  in  the  carrying  out  of 
this  short  and  direct  line  of  communication  along  the 
Euphrates,  not  only  untold  commercial  advantages  to 
England,  but  safety  and  happiness  to  India. 

Whatever  disappointment  there  might  have  been, 
liowever,  with  regard  to  the  knowledge  and  apprecia- 
tion of  tlie  powers  of  steam,  there  was  none  in  other 
respects.  The  most  gratifying  feehng  was  manifested 
towards  the  Euphrates  Expedition  throughout  the 
T)eninsula  of  India.      The  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  ^^^^   , 

*  presented 

Bombay  voted  a  gold-mounted  sword  to  tlie  Commander,  and 

...  .  subacrip- 

and  expressed  tlieir  determination  to  open  a  subscription  tion  raised 
for  the  benefit  of  the  rchitives  of  the  brave  men  who 
had  perished  in  the  '  Tigris.'  This  idea  was  warmly 
taken  up  throughout  India,  and  500/.  eventually  passed 
through  my  hands,  and  was  distributed  among  the  rela- 
tions of  the  deceased  men. 

Wliile  waiting  for  a  reply  from  the  Governor-Gene- 
ral about  the  future  services  of  the  Euphrates  Expedi- 
tion, the  carefully-kept  archives  of  Bombay  gave  me 
the  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  prac- 
tical working  of  the  postal  line  through  Arabia. 

This  line  was  organised  and  carried  out  under  the 
direction   and   special  superintendence   of  that   most 


330  NARRATIVE  OF  TUB   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITIOX. 

cH.vp.    distinguished  Governor-General,  the  Marquis  Wellesley. 

XXX 

— '  .  ' "  Fast  vessels  of  small  size  were  employed  in  making 
WtJuwievs  fortnightly  voyages  between  Basrah  and  Bombay, and 
PJI^]^*"*  Arab  couriers,  mounted  on   dromedaries,  kept  up  a 
Arabuu      regular   communication  with    Aleppo,    fix>m  whence 
Tartars — called  * hfe-and-death  Tartars* — carried  the 
despatches  to  and  from  Constantinople.    The  sea-voyage 
usually  occupied   from  ten   to  fifteen    days  between 
Basrah  and  Bombay,  and  these  voyages  were  equally 
continued  during  the  SW.  monsoon. 
Its  Titai  It  was  on  this  postal  line  through  Arabia  that  Eng- 

to  fJ^UiS  land  dei)ended,  during  the  great  French  war,  for  «irly 
Um?.*^  intelligence  of  the  progress  of  the  contest  with  Tippou 
Saib,  as  well  as  of  other  momentous  campaigns,  on  the 
result  of  which  the  preservation  of  our  Indian  Empire 
constantly  depended.  The  earliest  intelligence  was 
then — as,  indeed,  it  has  been  more  recently  also — of  vital 
imix)rtance  to  the  nation,  and  the  utmost  exertions  were 
made  to  secure  it.  Towards  the  close  of  the  last  cen- 
tiuy  it  was  well  known,  to  those  more  immediately 
interested  in  the  question,  that  an  overland  communi- 
cation had  been  kept  up  with  India  through  Arabia. 
But  without  a  carefiil  examination  of  the  archives 
existing  at  Bombay,  it  woidd  scarcely  be  possible  fully 
and  adequately  to  appreciate  the  care  with  w^hich  Lord 
Wellesley  maintained  a  fortnightly  postal  line  between 
Sir  Har-  England  and  India.  The  Arabian  portion  of  this  line 
lirjdg^s.^  was  kept  up  for  many  years  by  die  East  India  Com- 
pany's Eesident  at  Basrah,  then  Sir  Harford  Jones 
Brydges. 

A  reference  on  my  part  to  what  had  been  accom- 
plished at  that  period  caused  the  Bombay  Government 


INDIAN  DAK  journey.  331 

to  give  directions  that  the  '  dromedary  d&k  '  should  be     chap. 
reopened,  under  the  immediate  charge  of  Mr.  Hector.   — r-^ 
This  was  done  (as   compared  with  Lord  Wellesley's  J^?^^' 
time)  with  the  great  advantage  of  steamers  instead  of  *^^®  ^^ 
sailing-vessels.      Whilst,  however,  these  preparatory  ^^°®*- 
steps  were  in  progress,  the  more  immediate  measure 
was  taken  by  the  Indian  Government  of  forwarding 
directions  to  Major  Estcourt  (December  21),  to  continue  Directions 

to  Major 

the  service  on  which  he  was  engaged,  instead  of  termi-  Estcourt  to 

nating  the  Expedition  on  Januaiy  31,  1837,  in  accord-  theEu- 

ance  with  the  instructions  of  the  Home  Government.  In  LrTioo. 

any   case,  however,  this  would  only  have  given  one 

line  of  communication,  whilst  •  the  necessities  of  India 

required  at  least  a  second,  and  it  was  deemed  advisable 

that  I  should  proceed  to  Calcutta  to  lay  the  whole  Jottmcy 

'-  '^  from 

question  before  the  Governor-General.     It  was  now  the  Bombay  to 

...  Mhow. 

end  of  February ;  travelling  in  India  was  a  very  different 
thing  in  1836  from  what  it  is  now;  and  the  capital 
could  only  be  reached  by  sea,  or  by  a  tedious  journey 
of  relays  of  d4ks.  I  decided  on  the  latter  alternative, 
taking  the  route  of  Agra  and  Delhi  in  order  to  see  some- 
thing more  of  India.  The  caves  of  Ellora,  the  battle- 
ground of  Assay e,  and  the  wonderful  caves  of  Ajunta, 
were  all  visited  in  turn,  but  I  pass  over  the  incidents  of 
tliis  journey  as  irrelevant  to  my  present  narrative. 

On  reaching  Mhow,  my  progress  was  unexpectedly 
stopped  by  the  intelligence  that  the  Governor-General,  J^^^iand' 
Lord  Auckland,  thought  it  advisable  to  postpone  the  c^^ange  of 

piaiio. 

opening  of  the  Overland  Eoute,  and  that  he  was  not 
prepared  to  carry  out  his  previoics  intention  of  placing 
steamers  on  the  Eiver  Indus.  There  was,  therefore, 
no  longer  any  object  in  going  to  Calcutta;  on   the 


332  NARRATIVE   OP  THE   EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,     contrary,  it  seemed  best  to  return  to  Bombay  as  rapidly 

' — A-^  as  possible,  in  order  to  complete   the  arrangements 

now  in  progress,  and  then  to  rejoin  the  Expedition  at 

Bagdad.     My  hne  of  route  was  through  Oodeypore— 

a    place    never  to    be    forgotten    from   its    singular 

BomU*^    beauty — and    onwards    through   Ahmedabad    to  the 

Gulf  of  Cambay,  whence  the  Grovernment  schooner 

'  Tapti '  carried  me  to   Bombay  on    April  18.     The 

'  Hugh  Lindsay  *  had  not  appeared  in  die  roadstead, 

and  I  was  already  anticipating  the  pleasure  of  rejoining 

the  party  on  board  our  little  vessel  at  Bagdad,  when  I 

received  a  letter  from  Major  Estcourt,  informing  me 

that  the  directions  to  continue  the  Euphrates  Service 

Kxpotiition  had  reaclicd  him  too  late,  and  that  he  was  by  that 

broken  up.  ^j^^  somc  distaucc  ou  the  way  to  England,  after  ha\*ing 

returned  the  borrowed  seamen  to  their  ships. 

This  was  a  most  serious  disappointment  to  me, 
because  I  had  expected  that  the  Euphrates  Service 
would  have  been  kept  open,  until  such  a  class  of 
steamers  could  have  been  put  on  the  line  as  would 
have  been  suited  to  do  the  work  more  effectually.  It 
was  now,  however,  impossible  for  me  to  return  to 
England  with  the  officers  and  men  of  the  Expedition, 
and  nothing  remained  but  to  take  the  speediest  route 
for  home  in  order  to  close  our  laboiu's. 

It  was  decided  that  my  Une  should  be  the  direct 
one  through  Arabia,  instead  of  that  by  Bagdad.  The 
'  Hugh  Lindsay,'  just  returned  from  service  at  Manga- 
i^ave  l^^G^  sailed  on  April  2 8,  for  the  Persian  Gulf,  carrying  the 
^°J!mtv'  despatches  relating  to  the  insurrection  at  the  former 
Hcr^^tho*  place.  As  these  were  of  great  importance,  I  felt  it  to 
deacrt.        \^q  j^y  duty  to  offer  to  take  charge  of  them ;  and  they 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE   DESERT  JOURNEY.  333 

were  accordingly  placed  in  my  bands,  with  the  under-     chap. 

.  XIX 

standing  that  I  was  to  carry  them,  with  all  practicable  - — r-^ 


speedy  fix)m  sea  to  sea  across  the  desert.  On  May  G 
we  reached  Muscat,  on  the  9th  we  passed  Bassadore, 
and  on  the  evening  of  the  14th,  we  were  alongside  the 
Company's  cruiser '  Tigris '  at  Basrah  Creek.  An  over- 
land mail,  which  had  just  arrived,  brought  us  the 
cheering  intelligence  that  two  steamers  were  about  to 
be  sent  out,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Lynch,  to 
open  a  mail-communication  by  the  way  of  tlie  Euphrates.  . 

The  next  morning  saw  me  preparing  for  my  rapid  propara- 
homeward  journey,  accompanied  as  far  as  Zobeir  by  desert  °^ 
Lieutenant  Charles  Campbell,  who  had  rendered  me  J^'^®^*- 
the  very  material  assistance  of  laying  down  the  compass- 
bearings  to  Damascus — viz.,  NW.  by  W.^W. — to  aid  me 
in  directing,  my  course  by  day,  and  had  also  ascertained 
that  the  stars  Castor  and  Pollux  would  be  above  the 
horizon,  to  serve  as  my  unfailing  guides  by  night.     I 
engaged  two  Arabs  and  four  *  deluls,'  or  hght  camels, 
for  crossing  the  desert.      These  animals  are  far  pre- 
ferable to  the  dromedary  (tlie  '  ragin '  or  '  mahary ')  and 
also  to  the '  khowas '  or  heavier  camel  of  burthen,  whicli, 
though  a  much  more  powerful,  is  also  a  slower  beast, 
and  would  in  this  case  have  consumed  too  much  time.  The  ii-ms 
The  '  deluls  '  carry  a  light  burthen,  combined  with  capa-  camris.**'^ 
bilities  of  considerable  speed.     The  preparations  of  my 
Arabs  consisted  of  some  rice,  a  bag  of  dates,  flour  to 
make  bread,  and  a  supply  of  water  ;  and  my  own  were 
almost  equally  simple,  being  limited  to  rice,  biscuits, 
tea,  and  coffee,  with  brandy  for  occasional  use,  especially  Equip- 
to  make  the  water  more  drinkable.     My  personal  equip-  provisions. 
ments  were  an  Arab  dress,  and  a  kind  of  canopy,  which 


334  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  was  spread  on  four  light  poles,  to  give  protection  fix)m 
^-^  /  '  ^  the  sun  when  halting  ;  when  in  motion,  I  held  a  cloak 
above  my  head,  by  means  of  a  stout  walkingstick,  as 
a  more  eflScacious  protection  from  the  sun  than  the 
Arab '  keffeyeh'  alone.  Such  were  the  preparations  for 
my  long  and  solitary  journey  through  the  desert. 


335 


CHAFTER  XX. 

[JRKEY  ACROSS   THE   ARABIAN   DESERT — RETURN  TO   ENGLAND,   AND 
TERMINATION   OF  TUB    EUPHRATES   EXPEDITION. 

RLY  on  the  morning  of  May  15  we  took  our  departure     chap. 


m  Zobeir — myself,  my  two  attendant  Arabs,  two 
nels,  and  two  horses,  which  latter  were  to  be  ex-  i^^® 

Zobeir. 

mged  for  two  *  deluls '  at  the  end  of  our  first  short 
^'s  journey.  Near  Zobeir  we  crossed  what  are,  no 
jbt,  the  remains  of  the  great  Canal  of  Pallacopas  ;  and  The 

^  .    ,  Pallacopas 

n  afterwards  we  came  upon   one  of  those   living  Canai 

tures  of  the  desert,  which  would  well  repay  an 

ist  for  many  a  monotonous  day's  travelling.     The 

isiderable   tribe    of  the  Ibn-Souad  was   migrating  Migratidn 

itward  from  the  vicinity  of  Tadmor :    the  women  tribes. 

1  children  mounted  on  camels — ^the  men   in  their 

ituresque  attire,  with  their  horses,  cattle,  and  arms, — 

jsented  a  most  effective  picture  amidst  the  stillness 

all  nature  in  the  desert. 

I  do  not  propose  to  detain  the  reader  by  the  daily 

:^ils  of  my  almost  solitary  ride  of  twenty-two  days 

•OSS  the  Arabian  Desert.     But,  as  this  journey  was 

ique  in  its  way,  some  account  of  our  progress,  and  of 

;h  incidents  as  are  characteristic  of  desert  travelling 

Arabia,  will  not  be  wanting  in  interest. 

Our  first  halt  towards  sunset  was  at  the  tents  of  the 

abdi  Arabs,  a  branch  of  the  Montefijk,  where  I  heard 


336  NARRATIVE  OF  THE   KUPHR-\TES  EXPEDmOX. 

CHAP,    mv  own  Arab  attendant  telling,  as  a  piece  of  news,  that 
^-'  \  '  '  I  was  Hawajji  Yusuf  from   Bombay — a  story  which 
must  have  originated   in   my   arrival  by   the 'Hugh 
Lindsay ' :  at   all  events,  I  continued  to  bear  tliis  ap- 
pellation during  the  whole  journey. 
A  day«  Wc  Fcsumed  our  journey  at  2  a.m.,  which  was  indaxl 

in  the  our  usual  hour  for  starting  for  our  da-ys  jouniey  of 
^^  '  19  hoimi.  The  Arabs  pointed  out  Sheikh -el-Shuyukh 
at  about  six  miles  to  the  XE.  We  travelled  all  day  over 
a  sandy  plain,  with  scanty  grass  and  camel-thorn,  to  the 
well  Rsarlii,  meeting  the  Eassier  Arabs,  who  were  also 
on  tlie  move.  They  were  a  large  tribe.  Their  women 
were  all  mounted  on  camels,  and  each  was  shade<l  from 
tlie  sun  by  a  kind  of  canopy  stretched  over  her  head. 
Onwards  we  rode  over  the  same  sandy  plain,  halting  ai 
one  time  for  Moslem  prayers,  and  at  another  for  our 
longer  rest  at  the  tents  and  wells  of  Hawadia,  which  are 
culled  four  days'  journey  from  Basrah.  We  had  made 
50  miles  during  the  day.  Here  the  Arabs  baked  their 
bread  and  then  fell  asleep — their  heads,  as  usual,  quite 
buried  in  their  *  abbas ' — while  I  souglit  repose  uuder 
my  flying  tent,  after  a  traveller's  meal. 
Sliding  With  a  view  to  induce  my  Arabs  to  accomphsh  tbe 

wLhish.  longest  possible  distance  each  day,  I  de\nsed  a  scale  of 
'  backshish,'  which  was  to  increase  or  diminish  accordini: 
to  the  number  of  days  consumed  in  reachhig  Damarjcus. 
With  tlie  help  of  this  device,  we  managed  to  do  as  much 
each  day  as  our  camels  could  accomplish,  usually  start- 
ing at  midniglit,  or  soon  afterwards,  and  seldom  stopping 
until  sunset  for  food  and  a  short  season  of  repose — our 
s(»anty  meals  being  otherwise  easily  taken  as  we 
travelled  on. 


LIFE   IN  THE   ARABIAN   DESERT.  337 

The  character  of  the  desert  during  our  third  day's  chap. 
journey  was  arid  and  stony,  with  the  exception  of  one  - — ^.-^ 
beautiful  refreshing  little  oasis,  bright  with  trees  and  the  desert. 
herbs,  which  tempted  us  to  halt  for  breakfast.  We 
passed  through  several  *  wadis ' — those  of  El-Eshcol,  El- 
Hauran,  and  many  more — which  are  rocky  and  occasion- 
ally enclosed  by  hills  ;  and  before  midday  we  halted  for 
half  an  hour  in  the  bed  of  a  river,  where  my  rice  was 
cooked  and  eaten  under  the  shade  of  my  cloak  spread 
over  a  bush,  the  thermometer  being  at  104°.  Beyond 
this  resting-place  we  crossed  a  stony  plain,  on  which 
were  several  low  circles  of  stones  (evidently  artificial), 
each  about  20  feet  in  diameter.  The  Kirja  mountain 
lay  a  Uttle  to  the  N.  by  E.  This  day  we  calculated 
that  we  had  made  61  miles  in  18  hours.  We  saw 
gazelles  and  hares  occasionally  during  our  succeeding 
day's  journey  over  stony  ground,  with  the  thermometer 
at  109*^  under  the  canvas,  and  135°  outside.  the  desert. 

Our  midday  halt  was  at  the  entrance  of  the  Wadi 
Meredji.  Here  our  rice  could  not  be  cooked  nor  tea 
made  for  want  of  water,  and  our  slender  meal  consisted 
of  biscuits,  and  the  Arab  preparation  (made  from  flour) 
called  'muggle,'  which  is  rather  an  agreeable  acid  drink, 
though  I  felt  the  want  of  my  usual  refreshing  tea.  I 
managed  to  protect  my  head  in  some  degree  from  the 
fierce  heat  of  the  sun,  by  a  towel  folded  inside  the  fez, 
and  by  holding  a  part  of  my  cloak  aloft  by  means  of  a 
stick.  We  were  still  traversing  a  hard  surface  of  clayey 
soil,  with  scanty  bushes.  Hares  and  gazelles  were  the 
only  living  creatures  we  met  while  we  traversed  the 
wastes  of  El-Kaim  and  El-Birs,  and  passed  tlie  well  of 
Bahr-el-Meshed.      At  one  time  during  this  day,  the 

z 


33S  NARRATIVE  OF  TUB  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITIOK. 

CHAP.  Euphrates  appeared  reflected  above  the  horizon  in  a 
— ^ . — '  very  remarkable  manner,  when  we  must  have  been  at 
^^^"^   least  24  miles  distant  from  it 

^^  The  evenings  were  always  delicjotisly  refi'eshing,  the 

tliennometer  falling  to  77**.  The  Arabs  generally  made 
llie  temperature  still  more  enjoyable  to  themselves 
by  di-'pensing  ahnost  entirely  with  their  usual  clothing. 
We  generally  hidted  for  four  hours,  resting  and  feedii^ 
our  animals  alternately  during  that  time,  and  then 
resuming  our  journey.  We  endeavoured  to  avoid  the 
Bedawin  encampments  as  much  as  possible,  but  coming 
upon  one  of  them,  near  the  foot  of  Tel-el-Bin — which 
bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  Balkis  Hill,  near  Bir— 
we  w^ere  hospitably  received  by  the  Slaib,  a  sectioo  of 
Bedawin  thcsc  gipsy  Bcda^viu.  They  were  encamped  on  ooe 
side  of  the  sandy  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  Jebel-Kara 
range  of  hills.  Their  tents  are  of  a  peculiar  am- 
Tiicir  struction,  well-suited  to  the  habits  of  these  wandering 
*'*"^**  hunters  of  the  desert,  being  exceedingly  light,  and 
easily  removed  firom  place  to  place.  They  wot 
eight  feet  long,  and  barely  three  feet  high  at  the 
ridge,  from  which  the  sides,  made  of  double  camelV 
hair  cloth  to  resist  the  sun,  slope  downwards  to  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  A  gazelle  was  cooked  for 
us  immediately,  but  they  paid  themselves  rather  un- 
worthily for  their  hospitaUty  and  trouble  by  secreting 
my  only  travelling-rug. 

We  had  now  passed  a  week  in  the  desert,  and  were 
making  satisfactory   progress.      On   May  24  the  re- 
Rofniction   flectiou  of  the  great  river  suddenly  appeared  for  the 
*^""         second  time  most  distinctly :   so  powerful  was  the  re- 
fraction, that  tlic  wide-spread  stream  seemed  to  be 


ENCAMPMBNT  OP  THE  SLAIB   ARABS,  339 

close  at  hand,  and  I  could  not  have  believed  it  to  be  an    chap. 

XX 

illusion,  had  I  not  known  that  we  were  then  at  a  distance  > —  .-^— ' 
of  at  least  30  miles  from  the  nearest  point  to   the 
Euphrates  at  El-Kaim. 

We  came  upon  a  supply  of  water  about  this  time, 
when  it  occurred  to  me  that  the  great  power  of  the 
sun  would  be  sufficient  to  enable  me  to  make  my  tea,  Tea  made 
and  dispense  with  our  usual  fire.  I  tlierefore  exposed  ©f  the^sun.^ 
two  bottles  of  water  to  its  rays — with  the  thermometer 
at  105°, — and  I  found  that  I  could  make,  by  this  means, 
as  good  tea  as  that  drunk  by  the  Chinese  coolies.  I 
frequently  made  tea  afterwards  in  this  primitive  manner, 
and  found  my  discovery  invaluable  on  many  occasions 
during  this  desert  journey. 

On  and  on  we  journeyed,  over  the  same  hard  pebbly 
surface — occasionally  varied  by  a  rounded  distant  hill, 
slight  undulations,  and  a  few  stunted  shrubs — till  we 
reached  another  encampment  of  the  Slaib  Arabs,  where  camp. 
"we  were  well  received.  All  the  women  wore  large 
rings  in  the  right  cartilage  of  the  nose ;  and  they  were 
round-faced  and  decidedly  pretty  brunettes,  for  Arab 
vromen,  wlio  are  not  remarkable  for  beauty.  But  many  ^"^^^ 

*'  -^    women. 

of  the  children  and  men  were  afflicted  and  disfigured 
"With  weak  eyes.  A  salted  gazelle  was  produced  as  a 
treat  for  us,  but  the  excessive  sufibcating  heat  in  their 
low  crowded  tent  made  any  eating  out  of  the  question, 
beyond  my  usual  fare  of  a  little  rice. 

From  50  to  60  miles  was  our  average  day's  journey : 
sometimes  we  had  tc  diverge  from  our  direct  line^  to 
avoid  the  Aniza  or  some  other  dreaded  Arab  tribe. 
We  had  by  May  25  accomplished  quite  half  our  dis- 
tance, and  our  four  '  ships  of  the  desert '  were  still 

z2 


340  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXFEDITIOK. 

CHAP,     as  effective  as  at  the  start,  notwithstanding  their  short 

w 

-"  ^ '  -  rests  and  limited  feeding-time.     The  powers  of  eadu- 

^  1**™*'*  p    ranee  of  these  animals  excited  my  wonder  and  admira- 
endurance,  ^j^^,^      ^^  ^^^  Came  upon   a   less  arid  part  of  the 

Nichtin-     desert,  and  our  jxk)!  animals  found  both  grass  and 

i^ti"-.  more  abundant  camel-thorn,  while  we  had  the  enjoy- 
'**  '  meut  of  the  sweet  notes  of  the  nightingale  issuing  firom 
little  bu.>hes  of  the  liquorice  plant.  We  were  juat 
entering  the  rocky  bed  of  a  river  with  the  hope  of 
water,  when  the  cry  of  '  Arabs ! '  caused  us  to  retreat 
hastily,  and  turn  off  in  a  northerly  direction;  but, 

A  well  c»f  lia])pily,  in  the  afternoon  we  came  upon  a  well,  where 
we  were  consoled  for  our  morning's  disappointment  by 
a  supply  of  refi'cshing  water. 

We  passed  also  a  tepid  saline  stream,  similar  to  and 
n(^  doubt  connected  with  the  more  considerable  one 
near  Ilit.  We  were  now  halting  in  a  grand  and 
rocky  valley,  resembling  in  scenery  tliat  of  Wa^li 
Holla.      On  May  26  we  reached  Wadi  Hauran,  and 

Unwilling-  liere  my  Arabs  began  to  express  reluctance  topn> 

iifSN  of  my 

Anib8  to  ceed  any  fartlier,  and  all  the  encouragement  I  could 
^"^*  *  give  was  needed  to  induce  them  to  go  on.  We  had 
again  got  over  51  miles  in  eighteen  hours,  with  tlie 
thermometer  still  at  115°  outside,  and  108''  under  mv 
little  awning.  We  saw  a  fox  this  afternoon,  which  gave 
liopes  of  more  water ;  but  we  were  disappointed,  and 
for  once  the  Arabs  missed  their  way,  and  took  up  their 
quarters  for  the  night  close  to  an  ant's  nest,  which 
proving  a  decidedly  uncomfortable  resting-place,  we 
removed  our  quarters  at  once.  Daylight  showed  us 
that  we  were  only  a  short  distance  from  our  intended 
}>lacc  of  encampment.  On  resuming  our  journey  we 
came  to  some  moist  ground.     The  moment   the  Arabs 


INCIDENTS  OF  THE   DESERT  JOURNEY.  341 

perceived  this  they  sprang  from  their  camels,  and  with     chap. 
their  hands  and  two  small  drinking-cups  began  scrap-  * — »-^— 


ing  up  every  drop  of  water,  first  for  their  animals,  and 
then  by  the  same  process  obtauiing  a  little  muddy 
liquid  for  themselves. 

Passing  through  a  valley  scarcely  a  mile  wide,  we  riain  of 
entered  upon  the  wide  Plain  of  Tadmor,  occasionally 
meeting  low  hills  clothed   with   scanty   grass.      We 
stopped  to  rest  about  noon  ;  but  as  this  was  our  second  Quarrel 
halt  within  a  few  hours,  some   remonstrances  passed  Xl^l,"*^ 
between  me   and  the  Arabs    in  consequence,   which 
led  to  high  words  between  us.     Eeflecting,  however, 
that  this  was  an  awkward  state  of  things,  especially 
in  the  Arabian  desert,  I  made  an  overture  of  peace 
by  asking  for  water,  which  the  younger  of  my  com- 
panions hastened  to  bring  me,  with  evident  pleasure :  it  Koconciiia- 
was  both  given  and  received  as  a  token  of  peace  ;  while  ^^^' 
I  expended  my  whole  stock  of  Arabic  in  assurances  to 
my  two  followers,  that  but  little  time  now  remained 
in  which  to  accomplish  the  remainder  of  our  journey. 
They  appeared  to  understand,  and  from  that  time  forth 
continued  faithfully  to  do  their  best. 

On  May  28,  an  earlier  halt  than  usual  became  ne-  ^  <»"»«! 

falltf  lame. 

cessary,  in  consequence  of  one  of  the  camels  falling 
lame.  This  seemed  to  me  to  be  a  very  serious  misfor- 
tune at  first ;  but  the  Arabs  immediately  sewed  a  piece 
of  thick  leather  over  the  bhstered  part  of  the  creature's 
foot,  and  it  was  again  as  ready  for  work  as  ever.  During 
the  29th,  we  re-entered  the  Plain  of  Palmyra,  and  jmssed  Plain  of 
the  ruined  village  of  Antar.  We  were  tlien  about  *^"*^'''*' 
parallel  to  Anna,  and  saw  some  hills  of  moderate  height 
to  the  SW.,  one  of  which  (Mount  Crooge)  appeared 
to  be  of  volcanic  rock.      Our  landmarks  were  now 


342  NAKR.\TIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP,  becoming  more  frequent  and  more  varied.  On  May  30, 
--' .' '  ^  we  had  the  pleasurable  sight  of  the  three  castles  of 
Komania,  occupying  the  crests  of  a  bold  range  of  hills 
on  the  western  side  of  the  valley  of  this  name,  having 
a  parallel  but  lower  range  on  its  eastern  side ;  so  that 
there  could  no  longer  be  any  doubt  that  we  had  fairly 
Valley  of  entered  the  plain  and  valley  of  Tadmor.  This  valley 
became  narrower  as  we  proceeded  towards  its  uppo: 
extremity,  where  we  cUmbed  the  pass  leading  into  Uie 
Wadi  El-Hairy,  which  is  bounded  by  the  Ain-  Anadja 
liills  on  the  right,  and  gradually  widened  into  a  plain  as 
Wadi  El-  we  descended  it,  until,  under  the  name  of  Wadi  H- 
Gewm.  Gcrem,  it  brought  us  to  our  resting-place  a  little  before 
midnight.  Daikness  prevented  me  from  making  out 
the  character  of  the  country,  but  I  tliought  that  by 
})ushing  on,  after  a  short  rest,  we  might  still  be  able  to  ac- 
CDiiiplish  our  journey  within  the  appointed  time.  Tlie 
camels,  however,  were  quite  unable  to  add  to  the  48 
miles  they  had  already  made ;  and  I  therefore  preparcl 
to  leave  them  and  proceed  on  foot,  so  as  to  be  able 
either  to  send  or  take  the  despatches  in  time  for  the 
mail. 
rrijKiro  to  Foreseeing  the  possible  contingency  of  the  camels 
X^v^xxTmh.  breaking  down,  I  had  on  leaving  the  steamer  provided 
myself  with  sufficient  food,  in  a  very  compact  form,  to 
last  at  least  two  days.  But,  when  actually  starting,  my 
two  faithful  followers  grasped  my  cloak,  and  with  teaK 
in  their  eyes,  implored  me  to  remain  until  the  morning ; 
to  which  I  reluctantly,  but  fortunately  for  myself, 
consented — since  I  was  not,  as  they  were,  aware  that 
we  were  still  at  some  distance  from  Palmyra. 

On  we  went,  getthig  over  54  miles  on  May  31,  during 


foot. 


THE  SALT  LAKE  AND  PALMYRA.  343 

which  day  I  expected  every  hour  to  come  within  sight  of  chap. 
the  ruins :  at  one  moment  the  barking  of  dogs,  at  anotlier  ' — -^-^ 
the  cry  of  ^  Tadmor ! — Tadmor ! — Tadmor ! '  excited 
my  hopes  to  the  highest  degree.  On,  on  still,  during 
the  whole  of  June  1.  The  double-topped  mountain  of 
Jebel  Antar,  and  later  in  the  day  the  bold  outline  of  the 
Tadmor  mountains,  came  in  sight,  but  not  Palmyra ;  and 
we  were  forced  to  halt  at  10  p.m.,  after  a  journey  of 
57  miles,  but  so  near  to  our  desired  goal  that  we 
could  hear  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  and  knew  that 
we  were  almost  on  the  borders  of  the  Salt  Lake.  We 
were  off  by  four  o'clock  in  tlie  morning,  and  crossing  the 
salt-incrusted  plain,  we  kept  in  a  parallel  line  to  the 
lake,  until  dayhglit  showed  us  first  the  mountains  behind 
Palmyra,  with  the  town  of  Eacca  on  one  part  of  their 
summit,  and  a  castellated  building  on  another. 

Diverging  from  the  Salt  Lake,  Palmyra  itself  opened  Sait  i^ke 
upon  us,  and  we  had  a  glorious  view  of  these  exten-  Palmyra. 
sive  ruins.     The  two  castles,  the  Temple  of  the  Sun, 
and  the  Grand  Colonnade,  were  distinctly  visible  ;  but 
not  allowing  myself  more  than  a  passing  glance  at  them, 
I  hastened  onwards,  hoping  to  find  speedier  means  of 
completing  the  journey  than  our  tired  camels  could  Beach 
afford.     I  was,  however,  doomed  to  disappointment.  ^*^™J^' 
Neither  animals  nor  messengers  were  to   be  found. 
There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  prosecute  the  journey 
towards  Damascus  with  our  poor  and  already  over- 
worked animals,  with  the  reservation  on  my  part  that, 
if  they  absolutely  broke  down,  I  could  still  proceed  on 
foot.    My  good  Arabs  no  longer  made  any  objection  to 
continue  the  journey,  after  a  few  hours'  rest  to  recruit 
the  poor  camels,  and  this  interval  was  spent  by  me  in 


344  NARRATIVE  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION, 

ciTAP.     exploring  the  beautiful  remains  of  the  city  of  Zenobia. 


At  four  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  again  on 
our  way. 

For  the  next  four  days  we  travelled  on  as  fast  as  the 
state  of  our  wearied  animals  would  permit.    We  passed 

Kari»te«n.  the  Considerable  town  of  Kariateen,  and  the  villages 
of  Nasaim  and  Jerud,  and  halted  at  an  Arab  camp  on 
the  evening  of  June  4,  where  I  learnt  that  Seyd  Ali 
had  passed  on  with  the  mails  only  two  days  before  me. 
A  messenger  was  here  available,  and  therefore  I  seut 
him  on  to  Damascus,  to  mform  Mr.  Farren  that  I  was 
at  hand  witli  the  despatches,  that  he  might  be  prepared 

pamascus  to  forward  them  at  once  on  my  arrival.  Following  my 
messenger  during  the  night,  we  were  within  sight  of 
Damascus  by  daybreak,  and  were  cheered  by  tlie 
enlivening  siglit,  to  us  desert  travellers,  of  groups  o{ 
pcx)ple  either  entering  or  leaving  the  city,  and  of  the 

Caraviin  of  cHcampment  of  the  caravan  of  Pei'sian  pilgrims  on  their 
^  ""**  way  to  Mecca — some  with  green  tents,  others  with  tlie 
ordinary  dark  tents  of  the  country.  The  former  we 
found  belonged  to  some  royal  dames  of  the  household 
of  tlie  late  Prince  Eoyal,  Abbas  Mirza,  who  were  ou 
their  way  to  the  Shrine  of  the  Prophet. 

The  rising  sun  imparted  some  of  his  brilliancy  to  the 
dome  and  minarehs  of  the  city,  and  a  share  of  his 
cheering  influence  to  oiu*  hearts,  and  apparently  to  our 
wearied  animals  also  ;  for  their  renewed  exertions  as  we 
approached  Damascus  seemed  to  tell  us  that  they  too 
knew  that  tlieir  journey  of  958  miles  was  nearly  over. 

Arri\Tii  at  As  wc  entered  the  city  I  learnt  that  our  Consul- 
General  (Mr.  Farren)  was  in  the  country,  and  I  was 
turning   towards    the    house   of  tlie   French    Consul, 


BEIRUT  AND  ALEXANDRIA.  345 

M.  Baudin  (from  whom  I  had  received  many  kindnesses    chap. 
in  1830  and  1831),  when,  on  my  way  thither,  I  was  so  — r-^— ' 


fortunate  as  to  fall  in  with  Signor  Biaggi,  from  whom  I  Mo<ting 
had  parted  on  the  evening  of  the  memorable  day  on  si^^nor 
-which  we  commenced  our  descent  of  the  Euphrates.    ^'^*^** 
I  seized  my  kind  friend  by  the  arm,  to  his  unutterable 
surprise ;  for  22  days'  exposure  to  a  burning  sun  liad 
scarcely  left  one  recognisable  feature  in  my  counte- 
nance, and  I  was  obliged  to  prove  to  him  that  it  was 
not  a  Bedawin  who  had   accosted    him    so   uncere- 
moniously, before  he  could  feel  reassured.     Then^  his  i[ig  hoj^^y 
hearty  welcome  can  never  be  forgotten,  nor  the  plea-  ^^'^*^°^°- 
sure  of  his  excellent  breakfost,  after  my  scanty  desert 
fare  for  three  weeks.     Letters,  public  and  private,  from 
Europe  awaited  me  ;  but  scai'cely  allowing  myself  time 
to  read  them,  and  refusing  Mr.  Farren's  proflered  hos- 
pitality, I  pressed  forward  on  horseback  to  Beirut,  with 
the  hope  of  catching  the  mail-boat  for  Alexandiia  the 
next  night. 

The  gates  of  Beirut  were  closed  l)efore  I  reached  Reach 
that  place,   and  I  only  got  into  the  town  the   next  la'tofoptiio 
morning  to  experience  the  disappointment  of  hearing  ^^^' 
that  Seyd  Ali  had  sailed  on  the  previous  day.     To 
reach  Alexandria  in  time  for  the  next  steamer  was 
therefore  all-important,  and  to  accomphsh  this  I  hired 
a  small  vessel  of  the  country  as  my  only  resource. 
We  sailed   the  same  evening  (June  7),  but  had  to  saiifrom 
contend  with  such  baffling  winds  and  calms  that  we  ^^^^ 
only  entered  the  harbour  of  Alexandria  on  the  17th. 
The  nine  days  thus  spent  did  not,  however,  seem  long. 
TJnintermitting    exertion,    and    constant    anxiety    to 
accomplish  my  purpose,  had  suspended,  as  it  were,  the 


34C  5ARRATTVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  RXPEDITIOK. 

CHAP,     prostrating  effects  of  twenty-two  days'  travelling  on  a 

— .1-, — '  camel,  for  nineteen  hours  out  of  every  twenty-four. 

5(^|^j^^  But  tuHc  Nature  had  her  turn,  and,  with  the  exception 

frr'thir       ^^  short  waking  intervals  to  take  food,  I  slept  uninter- 

■■»*^         ruptedly  fix)m  Beirut,  until  we  entered  the  harbour  of 

Alexandria,  where  the  quarantine  boat  came  off  with  the 

news  tliat  Seyd  Ah  had  only  arrived  there  the  previous 

day,  and  that  I  was  quite    in  time  for  the  French 

steamer. 

Tmc^xto       As  there  was  no  other  immediate  opportunity  of 

reaching   England,  I  determined    to   go   on  by  her, 

although  this  involved  the  delay  of  going  round  by 

Syra.     Taking  with  me  the  general  mails  brought  by 

Soyd  Ah,  we  sailed  on  June  18.     We  made  Syra  on  the 

21st,   Malta  on  the   28th,  and  Leghorn  on  July  4, 

where  we  perceived  that  the  numerous  vessels  lying 

abreast  of  the  town  had  their  colours  half-mast  high. 

We  knew  at  once  that  this  betokened  some  unusual 

Death  of     evout,  and  we  learnt  only  too  soon,  from  the  quarantmc 

William  -m-n.  -tt-t 

IV.  boat,  that  William  IV  was  no  more. 

Thirty  busy  years  have  elapsed  since  the  deatli  of 
our  late  revered  Sovereign,  the  spontaneously  warm 
friend  and  supporter  of  the  Euplirates  Expedition,  but 
the  feeling  which  followed  tliis  melancholy  inteUigence 
is  almost  as  fresh  as  ever. 

Arrive  at  ^y^  rcachcd  Marseilles  on  July  5,  and  were  care- 
fully  lockol  up,  as  usual,  in  the  Lazaretto.  The  des- 
patches I  had  carried,  and  the  rest  of  the  mail,  after 
being  fimiigated  under  my  eyes,  were  sent  forward  by 
the  evening's  train.  Improving  health,  and  unremit- 
ting occupation  in  preparing  the  various  Expedititm 

Laarotto.    clocuiiieiits  for  Govemuicnt,  prevented  the  three  weeks 


WINDING-UP  OP  THE  EXPEDITION.  347 

spent    in  the  Lazaretto    from    seeming    tedious :    a    chap. 
pleasant  journey  along  the  coast  of  France  through  ^ — r-^ 
Brest  followed,  and  I  reported  my  arrival  at  the  oflSce  Return  to 

*-  "^  ^         London. 

of  the  Board  of  Control  on  August  8.  A  busy  period 
ensued,  attendant  on  the  winding-up  of  all  the  affairs 
of  the  Expedition. 

Settlements  with  the  officers,  soldiers,  and  seamen,  for  Settlement 
pay,  as  well  as  traveUing  expenses  and  losses  in  the  dition  ac- 
'  Tigris  ; '  the  return  of  the  chronometers,  astronomical 
and  surveying  instruments,  which  had  been  lent  for  this 
service  by  the  Board  of   Ordnance  and  Admiralty ; 
preparations  for   engraving   the   maps   of  the  Eiver 
Euphrates,   making  out  an   account  of  the    general 
outlay    of  the  Expedition,    with   the  production   of 
vouchers  to  replace  those  lost  in  the  'Tigris,'  were 
all  matters  involving  serious  work  and  employment  of 
time.     To  assist  in  these  and  other  objects,  the  Master- 
General  of  the  Ordnance  continued  the  services  of  two 
non-commissioned  officers — Sergeant-major  Quin,  Eoyal 
Artillery,  and  Corporal  Greenhill,  Eoyal  Engineers. 
The  difficulty,  however,  of  replacing  all  that  had  been 
carried  to  the  bottom  of  the  Euphrates  in  the  steamer 
'Tigris'  was  very  great,  even  though  each  officer  at 
once  commenced  the  task  of  making  out  fresh  vouchers 
for  his  share  of  the  accounts,  and  the  consular  agents  in 
Syria  were  apphed  to  for  their  part.     While  awaiting 
their  repUes,  we  were  occupied  in  laying  down  a  dupli- 
cate set  of  maps  of  the  Mesopotamian  rivers  on  a  scale  of  Lieutenant 
two  inches  to  the  mile,  one  of  which  was  prepared  for  the  appointed 
engraver  ;  the  other  was  sent  out  to  Lieutenant  Lynch,  Euphrates 
on  September  30,  to  assist  him  in  his  future  navigation.     ^^^* 


Early  in  October,  I  was  occupied  in  moving,  through 


r 


348  NARRATIVE   OP  TUE  EUPHRATES  £XPEDin05. 

CHAP,  Lord  Glenclg,  who  had  succeeded  Sir  John  Hobhouse 

XX  . 

^ — r-^— '  as  President  of  the  Board  of  Control,  to  obtain  fix)m 


the  Goveniment  promotion  for  the  officers  of  the 
Expedition. 

Mans  com-      ^^  Novcmbcr  I  kid  the  completed  maps  before  the 

picuxi.  Duke  of  Wellington  and  Sir  Eobert  Peel,  who  encou- 
raged me  to  look  for  the  assistance  of  Government 
in  bringing  out  my  intended  work  on  the  Expedition, 
and  the  countries  through  which  it  liad  passed. 

Promotion       Early   in   1838,   the  three  naval    officers,    Messrs. 

naval  Charlewood,  Fitzjames,  and  Eden,  received  their  promo 
^^'"*  tion  ;  that  of  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  was  delayed  to  fill 
up  his  sea-time. 

Expondi-         By  the  beginning  of  tlie  new  year  the  maps  were 

turu  of  the  -  -  - 

Expc-di-      far  advanced,  a  complete  account  was  rendered  to  the 

Treasury  of  the  expenditure  of  29,637/.  10^.  3|  J.,*  \\ith 

the  exception  of  a  deficit  of  117/., f  for  which  I  enclosed 

a  cheque,  which  was  returned  to  me  by  the  Lords  of 

The  Com-   tlic  Treasury ;  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing 

rocomraen-  that  their  Lordships  considered  some  mark  of  approba- 

GoTem-  ^   tion  duc  to  the  Commander  of  the  Expedition. 

^rae  mirk       This  recommcndatiou  gave  me  heartfelt  satisfiactioiit 

bluon."^     the  more  so  as  it  happened  that  the  Government  minute 

had  only  been  in  part  carried  out  by  conferring  the 

brevet  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  from  April   27,   1838, 

*  See  Appendix  11.,  for  details  of  the  expenditure  of  the  EzpeditioD. 

t  Some  years  after  this  time,  when  reading  over  the  journal  of  our 
lamented  Fitzjames,  this  deficiency  of  117/.  was  accounted  for  in  a  w»y 
which  had  quite  escaped  my  memory.  During  our  transport  difficulties 
between  Suedia  and  the  Lake  of  Antioch,  I  had  given  Fitxjamos  about 
100/.  to  pay  our  native  workpeople  their  wages,  the  whole  of  which  he 
lod  through  a  hole  in  his  pocket !  He  duly  reported  this  to  me,  offeriog 
to  write  to  his  father  for  the  amount.  But  this  (though  he  says  tbit 
the  *  Coh)nol  was  very  angry  at  the  time  *)  I  could  notaUoWj  and  replaced 
the  money  out  of  my  own  private  funds. 


PROPOSED  WORK   ON  THE   EXPEDITION.  349 

instead  of  the  previous  date  of  November  27, 1834.*     chap. 
Lieutenant  Lynch,  who  was  second  in  command  up  to  -  ^^  _^ 
the  sinking  of  the  *  Tigris,'  having  been  entrusted  with  q/^^^^^*^" 
the  new  Expedition,  it  remains  to  mention  the  other  remaining 

*  oflScers. 

gentlemen.  The  four  naval  officers  were  promoted  early 
in  1838,  and  after  a  little  time  Major  Estcourt  received  a 
brevet  Lieutenant-Colonelcy ;  Mr.  Hector  continued 
in  charge  of  the  postal  line  between  the  Mediterranean 
and  the  Persian  Gulf ;  Mr.  Taylour  Thomson  received  a 
diplomatic  appointment  ;f  and  gratuities  were  given 
to  the  surviving  soldiers  and  seamen.  Dr.  Staunton  and 
Mr.  Ainsworth  alone  remained,  and  still  remain,  of 
those  under  my  command  without  some  pubhc  mark 
of  approbation. 

I  did  not  expect,  nor  was  I  in  any  way  prepared  for,  q^^^ 
the  serious  task  of  writmg  a  history  of  the  Expedition ;  ^^^ 
but,  on  being  reminded  that  it  was  the  duty  of  the  ^™J^^^ 
C!ommander  to  place  the  result  of  a  national  enterprise  poiition. 
before  the  public,  rather  than  employ  another  pen,  as  I 
had  contemplated,  I  consented  to  make  the  attempt. 

•  The  date  of  the  breyet  rank  was  chiefly  valuable  in  my  estimation  as  a 
proof  of  the  approbation  of  Government.  In  a  minute  made  by  the  Duke 
of  Wellington  when  the  preparations  for  the  Expedition  were  completed, 
His  Grace  thus  expresses  himself  with  reference  to  the  Commauder : 
*  lie  should  go  out  as  Colonel  on  a  particular  service,  the  highest  rank 
that  could  be  given^  and  leave  the  rest  to  His  Majesty^s  Government.' 

This  minute  waa  followed  by  another,  in  which  the  President  of  the 
Rmrd  of  Control  says : — '  I  had  already  recommended  Captain  Chesney 
for  the  rank  of  Lieutenant-Colonel,  on  account  of  his  past  services,  but 
the  rank  of  Colonel  on  a  particular  service  has  been  conferred  on  him. 
On  the  completion  of  this  service  in  a  satisfactory  manner,  I  think  it 
due  to  Colonel  Chesney,  that  the  original  recommendation  in  regard  to 
the  rank  of  Lieutenant-Colonel  by  brevet  should  be  acted  upon — the 
Lieutenant-Coloners  rank  to  be  dated  from  November  27, 1834,  which 
is  the  date  of  his  commission  as  Colonel  on  this  particular  service.* 

t  Mr.  Thomson  is  now  Charge  d'AfFaires  and  Consul-General  in  the 
Itepublic  of  Chili. 


350  NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

CHAP.         On  considcriDg  the  nature  of  the  task  I  had  under- 
-^  taken,  it  appeared  to  me  that  I  should  adopt  one  or 


XX. 


Plan  of  Other  of  two  modes  of  treatment — by  giving  either  a 
simple  official  account  of  what  had  been  accomplished, 
without  reference  to  the  past ;  or  an  enlarged  review  of 
the  whole  subject,  in  its  historic  connections  and 
political  bearing.  Having  regard  to  the  vast  interests 
involved  in  the  maintenance  of  our  Eastern  posses- 
sions, and  the  permanent  nature  of  the  communicatioa 
which  possibly  might  be  established  in  consequence 
of  the  Euphrates  Survey,  the  conclusion  to  which  my 
mind  was  brought,  after  long  and  anxious  deliberation, 
w^as  that,  if  I  attempted  the  subject  at  all,  it  ought  to 
be  on  the  more  comprehensive  plan. 

It  was  not  contemplated  that  I  should  receive  any 
pecuniary  recompense  for  these  labours ;  and  if  the 
scale  on  which  I  undertook  them  has  been  of  a  magni- 
tude disproportioned  to  the  time  which  I  could  fairly 
affoixl  from  other  pursuits,  the  loss  has  been  exclusively 
my  own.     They  who  have  read  my  previous  volumes 
will  be  able  to  judge  of  the  nature  and  extent  of  the 
Prriimi-     preliminary   researches,  historical,  geographical,  ami 
restarchea.  political,  on  wliich  I  havc  cndcavoured  to  base  the 
Survey   in  a  manner  consistent  with  the  extent  aod 
solidity  of  the  interests  involved.     But  the  production 
even    of  that    part    of  the  work   was   retarded  by 
a  succession  of  untoward  yet    unavoidable  circum- 
stances. 
Pnnting         Soon  after  the  printing  of  the  first  volume  had  com- 
moncog.      menced,  in  1843,  I  was  ordered  on  active  service  in 
onu  red  to  Cliiiia,  as  Brigadier  commanding  the  Royal  and  East 
India  Company's   Artillery.     When   this  unavoidable 


DELAY  OP  THE  PUBLICATION.  351 

tion  to  the  work  had  terminated  on  my  return    chap. 

XX 

md,  after  sharing  in  the  expedition  against  Can-  ^ — r^~^ 


.847, 1  encountered  the  great  disaster  of  being  ^^ilT* 

m  addition  to  a  considerable  sum,  of  the  MSS.   ^g^^^^*^ 

,vo  first  vohimes,  then  ready  for  the  printer.* 

I   three  years  of  unremitting  labour  had  re- 

his  most  serious  loss,  the  printing  was  resumed.  First  and 

inued  till  the  first  and  second  volumes,  as  well  as  voices 

s,  including  a  complete  Chart  of  the  Euphrates,f  p^^^«^^- 

;^en  to  the  public. 

u  producing  the  work  to  this  extent,  I  found  Failure  of 

own  advances,  in  addition  to  the  money  drawn  ^^"^«,  ^ 

'  •'  complcto 

3  Treasury,  amounted  to  a  sum,  beyond  which  the  work, 
not,  in  justice  to  myself  and  others,  continue  to 
rivate  disbursements ;  and  at  the  same  time  I 
sensible  of  an  increasing  indisposition  on  the 
;hose  having  the  disposal  of  the  public  funds,  to 
5  to  apply  them  on  such  a  scale  as  the  prosecu- 
he  remainder  of  the  work  would  have  required, 
ithstanding  very  earnest  representations  by  the 
ented  Prince  Consort,  Sir  Eobert  Inglis,  Baron  Represm- 
dt,  and  others,  who  were  desirous  of  seeing  the  J^,e^°?o*^^ 
mpleted,  the  same  unwillingness  to  make  the  ^^^^^ 
y  outlay  continued  to  exist ;  and  the  work,  as  *^^- 
the  consideration  of  my  own  position  in  regard 

man,  who  had  given  a  false  number  at  the  Paddington  Station, 
^  with  my  portmanteau.  In  addition  to  £840,  it  contained  the 
ch  I  had  just  brought  to  London  for  publication.  The  police 
3eded  in  facing  him. 

iginal  Chart  of  the  River  Euphrates,  on  a  scale  of  two  inches  to 
3  given  by  me  to  the  Admiralty — ^where  It  stiU  remains — and 
i  will  yet  be  found  useful,  whenever  that  noble  river  and 
antry  shaU  again  become  the  groat  highway  of  intercourse 
Ingland  and  India. 


352  NARRATIVE  OP  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDmOS. 

CHAP,    to  it,  fell  into  abeyance  until  1858,  when,  on  the  inter- 

XX. 

■-\  '  *  vention  of  Lord  Stanley,  I  was  recouped  the  bulk  of 
my  actual  expenditure,  as  it  stood  when  I  submitted  it 
to  the  Treasury  in  1854. 
c*ii«i  Called  upon  again  in  the  past  year  to  resume  theXar- 

oU^piMe  rative  of  the  Expedition,  I  have  not  hesitated  once  more 
the  Naira-  ^^  ^^^  ^  j^^l^  cndcavours  towards  rendering  this  con- 
tribution to  the  public  service  as  complete  as  my  humble 
abilities  enable  me  to  do  :  and  if  the  work  sliall  hereafter 
conduce  in  any  substantial  degree  to  the  advancement 
and  security  of  our  East  Indian  communications,  I  shall 
not  deem  my  labours  unrewarded,  nor  my  time  and 
other  oxjKinditure  misapplied. 

Siimmft  '^'^^  consecutive  operations  of  the  Exi)edition  w^e 

ofniH..ni-     inarked  by  the  following  dates  or  rcsting-i)oints  :— 

u"llio'^'^  The  transport  of  all  the  materialf,  and  the  floating  of  two 
liuphrntt's  Jj-qij  steamers  in  a  perfect  state,  so  as  to  put  the  ExpedilitiD 
tioiir  *        in  nn>tifn,  March  16,  1836. 

The  ilescent  and  siu'vey  of  about  1,200  miles  of  the  River 
Kiiplirates,  completed  June  18,  1836. 

Kxamination  of  the  Rivers  Karun  and  Bah-a-Mishir,  Stp- 

temher  1836. 

Ascent  and  survey  of  the  River  Tigris  to  Bagdad,  Septem- 
ber 28,  1836. 

First  mail  taken  to  Bombay  by  myself  in  the  *Hugh 
Lindsay,'  December  1,  1836. 

Second  ascent  of  the  Karun  hy  Major  Esteourt  and  tlie 
othei-3,  in  December  1836. 

»Soc(md  ascent  of  the  'Tigris'  above  Bagdad  by  Major  Est- 
eourt, January  1837. 

Detached  Operations. 

Survey  of  the  Bay  of  Scanderoon  and  coast  from  thence 
to  Lattakia,  completed  about  May  1836,  by  Lieutenant 
Murphy  and  others. 


GENERAL  SUMMARY  OF  OPERATIONS.  353 

Grand  line  of  levels  from  the  Bay  of  Antioch  to  the  River     chap. 
Euphrates,  which  was  completed  by  Lieutenant  Murphy,  in     ^' 
May  1836,  with  the  assistance  of  Lieutenant  Cockburn  and  summary 
Sir.  Thomson*     A  section  of  this  laborious  work  is  given  on  o{  opera- 
Map  ^o.  1. 

Scientific  journey  through  the  Taurus,  so  as  to  connect  the 
sea  with  the  river  by  geographical  lines,  completed  in  Feb- 
ruary 1836  by  Colonel  Chesney,  Lieutenant  Murphy,  and 
Mr*  Ainsworth. 

Continuation  of  this  journey  by  Lieutenant  Lynch  and 
Mr.  Ainsworth,  who  connected  Orfah  and  Haran  with  the 
Euphrates  below  Samsat. 

Pendulum  and  magnetic  experiments  at  Port  William,  by 
Major  Estcourt  and  Lieutenant  Murphy,  completed  in  March 
1836. 

Pendulum  and  magnetic  experiments  by  Major  Estcourt 
udd  Lieutenant  Murphy  at  Basrah,  completed  in  August  1836, 
before  the  decease  of  the  latter. 

The  Natural  History  of  the  River  Euphrates,  with  a  large 
collection  of  plants  and  insects  by  Doctor  and  Mrs.  Heifer 
[Germans),  who  executed  this  important  task,  in  considera- 
tion of  a  free  passage  down  the  river. 

A  line  of  levels  from  the  River  Tigris  near  Bagdad  to  the 
River  Euphrates  opposite,  by  Corporal  Greenhill,  of  the 
Royal  Sappers  and  Miners — made  with  the  double  object  of 
determining  the  distance  of  level,  and  also  the  possibility 
[>f  cutting  a  navigable  canal  from  the  one  great  river  to 
the  other. 

The  discovery  of  lignite  coal  above  Dcir,  on  the  Euphrates. 

The  discovery  of  a  mine  of  plumbago  in  the  Taurus,  by 
Mr.  Ainsworth. 

The  discovery  of  extensive  coal  and  iron  mines  near  the 
Tigris,  by  Mr.  Ainsworth. 

A  geological  section  of  the  whole  country  from  the  Medi- 
terranean Sea  to  the  Euphrates,  following  the  line  of  levels, 
bjr  Mr.  Ainsworth. 

A  geological  examination  of  Northern  Syria,  by  Mr.  Ains- 
worth. 

A  geological  examination  by  him  of  the  Taunis  and  Anti- 
Paums. 

A  A 


354  NARRATIVE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  EXPEDmON. 

CHAP.         A  geological  examination  of  the  whole  conrse  of  the  Ea- 

^^'       phrates  below  Sarasat,  say  1,400  miles;  of  the  whole  courw 

of  the  Tigris  to  Diyarbekr;   of  the  greater  part  of  the 

Karun,  the  whole  Bah-a-AGshir,  and  the  sonthem  part  of 

Persia — viz.,  from  Persepolis  to  Bushira 

The  Expedition  was  finally  broken  up  by  Major 
Estconrt,  agreeably  to  the  orders  of  the  President  of 
the  Board  of  Control,  at  Bagdad,  January  25, 1837. 

Since  the  above  summary  of  the  results  accomplished 
by  the  Euphrates  Expedition  was  prepared,  on  my  retura 
to  England  in  1837,  the  question  of  a  steam-communi- 
cation with  India  through  Turkish  Arabia  has  remained 
comparatively  in  abeyance,  although  the  informaticw 
obtained,  with  regard  to  the  rapidity  of  transit  and 
Adrant-      Commercial  advantages  of  that  line,  have  been  such  as 
E^phmtos*  to  place  its  desirability  beyond  all  doubt.     Its  direct- 
R^  Soa     Hess,  and  consequent  superiority  over  the  present  Over- 
^*"*''  land  Koute  to  India,  are  now  patent  to  everybody,  and 

require  no  exemplification.  Its  commercial  advantages 
will  be  equally  apparent  to  the  reader,  if  he  will  take 
the  trouble  of  looking  over  the  following  statistics  of 
trade  through  Arabia  in  1855,  furnished  by  Mr.  Barker 
then  acting  as  Vice-Consul  at  Aleppo, — and  given  to  me 
when  I  revisited  Syria  in  1856,  in  company  with  Sir 
John  MacNeill  and  a  staff*  of  engineers,  for  the  purpose  of 
assisting  in  a  careful  re-survey  of  the  Bay  of  the  Orontes, 
and  of  the  country  lying  between  the  Mediterranean 
and  the  Upper  Euphrates,  with  a  view  to  a  line  of 
railway  from  the  coast  to  the  river  passing  by  Al^po. 
According  to  Mr.  Barker's  statement,  it  appears  that 
the  imports  to  and  through  Aleppo,  in  1855,  amounted 


IMPORTS  AND  EXPOETS  OF  ALEPPO  IN   1855. 


355 


to  about  £1,414,059,  and  the  exports  to  £1,254,130,    chap. 

.  XX 

irrespective  of  an  internal  trade  with  Turkey,  which  in  — r-^ 
1856    reached   £1,079,556.     The    statistics    are    as  ^Xx^ 


Total  Amount  op  Value  op  Goods  Ixpobted  prom  Great 
Britain  ikto  Stria  is  60  Vessels  ik  1855. 

.  £427,360 
1,634 
4,715 
2,136 
6,160 
4,080 
4,305 

.       20,973 

471,353 
French,  Italian,  Gennan,  Swiss,  less  in  quantity, 

but  greater  in  value,  about  as  much  .       471,353 

Coasting  trade    from    Constantinople,   Greece, 

Smyrna,  &e.  about  as  much    ....       471,353 

£1,414,059 


21,368  bales  Manufactures 

at  £20 

467  bags  Pepper  and  Pimento 

„      ^ 

943  barrels  Sugar    . 

•  »)      5 

534  bags  Coffee 

.  »      4 

123  cases  Cochineal . 

.  „    50 

61    „    Indigo 

.  „    80 

1,435  packages  Drysalteries 

.  „      3 

6,991        „       not  declared 

•  »      3 

Exports  op  Aleppo  in  1855. 


120,000  quarters  Wheat   . 

60,000       „       Barley    . 

26,000       „       Millet    . 

2|600  tons  Flour 

6,000    „    Sesame  Seed 

760    „    Galls   . 
1,000    „    Cotton 
2,000    w    Wool  . 


at  £2 

u 

12 
18 
65 
36 


w 


if 


ff 


£240,000 
62,600 
31,260 
30,000 
90,000 
48,760 
36,000 
80,000 
150,000 


In  1865, 

60  vessels 

fromGh:«at 

Britain, 

with 

£471,353. 


French, 
German, 
&;c.  in 
1855, 
£471,853. 

Coasting 
trade  in 
1855, 
£471,353 


Exports 
from  Alep- 
po in  1855. 


Allow  for  sundry  articles  as  above 

Internal  trade  to  Constantinople,  Smyrna,  &c.,  as 

above 485,630 

£1,264,130 

The  prices  are  the  average  at  Aleppo. 

According  to  Clonsul  Kennedy's  Eeport  to  the  Foreign 
Office  in  1855, 181,100  tons  of  goods  were  sent  to  and 
through  Aleppo  from  the  coast  in  that  year,  and 
179,800  tons  passed  from  that  city  for  export,  at  a  cost  of 
cost,  for  the  transport  alone,  of  about  £200,000. 

A  a  2 


transport. 


356 


NABRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHEATE8   EXPEDITION. 


CHAP. 
XX. 


HO 


PrM6fil 

fitate  of 
cumniuni- 
catioii  viA 
tho  Ku- 
phmU>s. 


The  forgoing  details  give  an  approximate  idea  o 
the  commerce  existing  ten  or  twelve  years  ago  on  th( 
ItlJ^Sf  western  side  of  Turkish  Arabia,  while  the  subjoinec 
LiJ^*  Me-  account,  by  Captain  Lynch,  C.B.,  of  the  present  state  o 
poriMnia.  trade  in  Lower  Mesopotamia,  furnishes  additiona 
valuable  information  : — 

*  Note  on  the  present  State  of  Commerce  on  the 

Eiiphratee  and  Tigris. 

'  We  must  regard  with  interest  the  progress  made,  in  tb 
countries  bordering  the  Euphrates,  since  the  Expedition  re 
corded  in  these  pages.  An  unbroken  Jine  of  steam-yessel 
now  conducts  the  traveller  from  London  to  Bagdad,  th( 
ancient  seat  of  Arab  empire  on  the  Tigpris,  in  a  period  o 
from  five  to  six  weeks.  The  vessels  of  the  Peninsular  anc 
Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company  from  England  to  Bom 
bay  are  connected  three  times  a  month,  by  the  steamers  o 
the  British  India  Company,  with  Basrah,  whence  the  steamer 
of  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris  Steam  Navigation  Corapan; 
maintain  the  line  to  Bagdad,  carrying  mails,  passengeis,  an< 
merchandise. 

^The  Turkish  authorities  at  Bagdad  have  two  smal 
steamers  on  the  river,  and  three  others  are  in  course  of  con 
struction  at  Basrah.  The  Indian  Government  also  maintaii 
an  armed  steamer  at  Bagdad,  for  the  service  of  the  Kesidenc; 

'  The  tel^n^aph  to  India  passes  through  B^dad,  and  w 
have  frequently  had  replies  to  messages  from  London  on  thi 
following  day.  No  doubt  very  great  improvements  may  ye 
be  made  in  tlie  mode  of  working  it ;  and  a  line  will  probablj 
be  continued  from  Bagdad,  through  Persia,  to  Bunder  Abbai 
and  the  Mekran  coast  to  Kurrachee,  thus  continuing  the 
land-line  all  the  way  from  England  to  India.  A  future  rail* 
way  will  probably  follow  the  same  route.  There  is  certain!} 
no  land-line  to  India  which  offers  so  many  advantages^ 
whether  as  regards  distance,  position,  sea  and  land  commimi- 
cation,  climate,  and  nature  of  the  country. 

<  The  trade  between  India,  England,  and  the  ports  of  tbe 
Persian  Oulf  and  the  Euphrates,  has  increased  in  an  extra- 


Steam- 

vit8<*l8  on 
tho  river. 


TelogTAph 
to  India 
tliruugh 
liigiUul. 


Increase 
of  tnido 


COMMEHCE   ON  THE   EUPHRATES  AND  TIGRIS  IN   1868.  357 

ordinary  degree  since  the  Expedition  first  drew  attention  to     chap. 
these  countries ;  and  the  exports  of  wool,  cotton,  opium,  and  .^^'  _. 


grain  of  every  description  are  greatly  increasing,  and  oflFer  a  between 
field  of  supply  almost  unlimited.     Many  of  the  European  ^<i^*  "J^ 
nations  are  now  represented  by  mercantile  firms  at  Bagdad,  ^  ,.^j  ' 
and  a  bank^  on  the  English  system,  has  been  established  bank  at 
there,  and  is  daily  increasing  its  business.  Bagdad. 

'Since  the  first  Expedition,  the  rivers  have  been  again  Gapabili- 
examined,  with  more  time  for  a  careful  survey ;  and  although  Euphrates 
the  Euphrates — from  its  mighty  torrent  in  the  full  season,  river  and 
when  the  snow  melts  on  the  Taurus,  and  its  shallow  pool-  ^    *^* 
like  state  in  the  dry  season — is  unfitted  for  the  purpose  of 
swift   unbroken   steam-*navigation,  yet  for  all  the  require- 
ments  of  interfluvial  communication  and  irrigation  it  is  as 
unrivalled  as  its  valley  is  rich  in  all  the  products  which  love 
a  rich  soil  and  a  glowing  sun.     We  found  no  difficulty  from 
the  Arab  tribes,  and  none  is  to  be  anticipated  from  them,  to 
the  project  of  a  railway  along  the  valley.     As  our  knowledge  cordial 
of  their  customs  and  our  communications  with   them   in-  relations 
creased^  so  were  our  relations  more  and  more  cordial ;  and  we  ^ith  the 
€X>iild  depend  on  them  for  any  services  in  their  power  to  Arabs. 
render,  either  as  messengers  to  carry  the  mails,  or  to  procure 
and  furnish  us  with  such  supplies  as  the  country  affords. 

*  Much  as  the  Expedition  has  awakened  the  attention  of 
the   people   on   the   spot,   and   increased  their   means   and 
desire  for  increased  commerce  with  Europe  and   India,  in 
a  fer   greater    degree    has    the    attention    of    the    Great 
Powers  of  Europe  been  drawn  by  it  to  the  Euphrates.     No  import- 
Power    can    hope    to   hold   an   exclusive    interest    on   the  »»<»  ®^  ^^ 
Euphrates.     A  mighty  stream  of  over  1200  miles  from  the  river  wid* 
Taurus  to  the  Persian  Gulf,  running  through  the  richest  ^*^^^y 
valley  in  the  world,  with  immense  plains  on  either  hand,  it 
divides  the  East  from  the  West.     The  seat  of  ancient  em- 
pires,  it   was  never  until  desolate    and  strewn    with  ruins 
under  one  sceptre,  and  must  again  become  the  home  of  the  ^  ^a«>pe 
surplus  population  of  Europe.    The  Expedition  has  awakened 
the  nations  of  Europe,  and  they  will  now  discover  the  interest 
they  have  in  the  rehabilitation  of  the  Euphrates,  and  uniting 

*  The  London  and  Bagdad  Banking  Association  (limited). 


358 


NARRATIVE  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EKPEDITIOK. 


CHAP. 
XX. 


Indian 
f(y8t4^m  of 
railwayii. 


PostAl 
rommuni- 
cHtions 
with  India 
ill  the  last 
centuiy. 


Actual 

postal 

communi- 

CHtioD, 

and  pro»- 
pect«  of 
itH  accele- 
ration. 


probably  in  a  more  £dr  and  cordial  support  of  the  Turkyi 
Empire — ^the  only  instrument  for  the  purpose — make  the  val- 
ley of  the  Syrian  river  the  path  to  the  rich  commerce  and 
resources  of  the  East' 

H.  BLOSSE  LYNCH. 

London,  July  18, 1868. 

This  statement  seems  to  tell  us,  incontestaUy,  that 
but  little  impetus  is  required,  in  the  way  of  improved 
facilities  of  transport,  to  create  a  great  increase  rf 
traffic  in  that  part  of  the  world. 

The  Indus  has  been  most  successfully  opened  nf 
by  hnes  of  railway  and  steam-flotillas,  carried  out 
almost  entirely  by  the  persevering  energy  of  Mr.  W.  P. 
Andrew,  Chairman  of  the  Scinde  and  Piinjaub  Eailway 
Companies  ;  consequently,  but  little  more  is  now 
needed  to  complete  a  working  line  of  communica- 
tion by  railway  through  Mesopotamia,  with  steamen 
for  the  Persian  Gulf,  which  would  give  the  means  of 
rapid  intercourse  between  Great  Britain  and  India,  at 
an  estimated  cost  of  about  £1,000,000. 

Some  50  or  60  years  ago  a  letter  was  five  or  six  months 
in  reaching  India  from  England ;  and  even  when  the 
improved  arrangements  of  the  line  through  Arabia, 
as  organised  by  the  Marquis  Wellesley,  existed,  the 
despatches  were  from  68  to  85  days  in  reaching 
Bombay,  during  the  momentous  period  of  the  war  vritl 
France.* 

Letters  now  reach  India,  by  the  Bed  Sea  route,  in  2i 
days,  or  even  less ;  and  at  no  distant  period,  letters  seni 
through  Brindisi  and  Turkish  Arabia  will  reach  Bomba) 
in  from  12  to  14  days ;  while,  in  case  of  urgent  necessity 

♦  Sed  pp.  3i9,  330. 


MIUTARY    IMPORTANCE   OF  THE   EUPHRATES  ROUTE.  350 

«  very  little  additional  time  will  enable  us  to  transport    chap. 
troops  to  Central  Aaia,  ready  to  take  the  field. 


This  is  no  visionary  project.    Our  Indian  Army  has  campaignH 
carried  out,  most  successfully,  two  very  distant  and  Sstan, 
exceedingly  diflScult  campaigns — the  one,  Sir  George 
Pollock's  march  through  the  wildest  and  most  difficult 
passes  of  Afghanistan,  in  the  face  of   a    powerful 
enemy ;  the  other,  Sir  Robert  Napier's  safe-conduct  of  and  in 

,  ,  Abyssinia. 

his  troops  over  the  winding  and  almost  impracticable 
mountain  passes  to  the  westward  of  the  Bed  Sea. 
In  either  case,  imder  less  able  commanders,  it  might 
have  been  of  vital  importance  to  have  had  it  in  our 
power  to  supply  reinforcements  with  the  least  possible 
delay.  By  the  Euphrates  Route  alone  could  this  have 
been  effected  rapidly  in  the  case  of  A%hanistan,  K«inforeo- 
where,  in  addition  to  the  apparently  almost  insurmount-  ^^m 
mble  difficulties  offered  by  the  nature  of  the  country,  p^^,^ 
Sir  George  Pollock  had  to  lead  his  men  against  a  brave 
and  warlike  people,  and  to  enable  his  troops  to  regain 
that  prestige  whidi  had  been  lost  by  our  previous  dis- 
asters in  Cabul.  I  must  be  permitted  here — although 
it  is  somewhat  of  a  digression — to  offer  my  tribute  of 
admiration  to  the  commanders  and  troops  who  have 
fio  happily  carried  out  these  two  most  extraordinary 
expeditions,  and  which  in  the  latter  case  has  been  so 
signally  rewarded  by  our  gracious  Queen. 

When  the  first  volumes  of  this  work  were  going 
through  the  press  (in  1851),  the  Caucasian  tribes  were 
.still  free  and  independent,  as  well  as  those  lying  to  the 
westward  of  the  Caspian  Sea.     Now  the  Caucasus  is  Advances 
Russian   territoiy,   and   the   power  of  the  Czar  has  towa^*** 
tfiiread    rapidly    to    the    westward.      Persia   remains  ^*^' 


i 

i 

I 

I 

! 


I  I 


h 


360  NABRATIVB  OF  THE  EUPHRATES  EXPEDITiOK. 

CHAP,    pasidve,  whilst  the  armies  of  Russia  have  not  oi 


occupied   the    distant  city   of  Somarcand,   but   i 

graduaUy  drawing  nearer  and  nearer  to  Herat  t 

Cabtil. 

omr  ««ca-        If  we  would  HOt  scc  her  troops  occupying  the  rij 

coiMoiidA-    bank  of  the  Indus,  let  us  Ailly  realise  the  possibility 

%MSBk  of  ovur 

omUnd     such  an  even  t ;  and  it  will  then  at  once  be  found  t 

• 

eations.  wc  posscss  ample  means  for  avertmg  the  danger 
moi-al  effect  of  the  advance  of  an  enemy  to  the  v 
boundary  of  om:  Indian  Empire,  in  the  consolidation  i 
perfection  of  our  overland  communications  betwi 
Great  Britain  and  India. 


APPENDIX. 


CONTENTS. 


PAOB 

I.  Letter  from  Captain  Chesney  to  Sir  Hobert  Cbidon,  on  the  Ofer- 

knd  Roate  md  Egypt 364 

II.  General  Accounts  of  the  Euphrates  Expedition — Casualties  of  the 

Euphrates  Expedition 374 

III.  Journey  from  the  B:iy  of  the  Orontes  to  Damascus  (1835),  by  the 

late  Mi^jor-General  J.  B.  B.  Estcourt 381 

IV.  Journey  fh)m  Suedia  to  Reschid  Pacha's  Camp  near  Diyarbekr 

(1835),  by  the  late  Magor-Goneral  J.  B.  B.  E»toourt .        .         .407 

V.  Report  of  a  Tour  from  Bir  to  £1-Deir  (1836),  by  Captain  Henry 

Blosse  Lynch,  C.B.,  K.L.S 432 

VI.  Extracts  from  a  Report  of  an  Excursion  in  the  Arabian  Desert 

(1836),  by  the  late  John  William  Heifer,  MJ).         .        .        .439 

VII.  Report  of  the  Circumstances  relating  to  the  Transport  (1836),  by 

the  late  M^'or-General  J.  B.  B.  Estcourt  .        .        .        .        ,    446 

VIII.  Report  of  the  Circumstances  relating  to  the  Transport  (1885-36), 

by  the  late  Commander  R.  F.  Cleayeland,  R.N.         .        .        .    452 

IX.  Summary  of  Journal  (1885)  by  Acting  Lieutenant  (now  Captain) 

£.  P.  Charlewood,  R.N. .466 

X.  Report  by  the  late  Mr.  (afterwards  Captain)  James  IFitzjames, 

RN.  (1836) 481 

XI.  Report  of  a  Joumpy  from  Bagdad  to  Constantinople  vid  Kurdistan 

(1837),  by  William  Ainsworth .492 

XII.  Biographical  Records  of  the  Officonj  of  the  Euphrates  Expedition      542 


364  THE  OYERLAXD  ROUTE   VIA    RGYIT. 


APPENDIX  I. 

LETTER  PROM  CAPTAIN  CHESNEY  TO   SIR  ROBERT 
GORDON,   ON  THE   OVERLAND  ROUTE   VlA  EGYPT. 

JalEi,  September  2, 1830. 

APPX.         ^^^* — '  have  realised  the  intention,  communicated  to  yoar 
L         Excellency  in  my  letter  from  Cairo  (dated  June  7),  of  viriting 
^     *".        Sues,  Lake  Mensaleh,  &c.,  and  also  sailing  down  the  Red  Sea 
tionofthi)   to  Kosseir,  from  whence  I  again  crossed  the  Desert  to  the 
^WT^>»n     Nile  ;  endeavouring  to  ascertain,  during  these  journeys,  what 
impediments  and  facilities  exist  with  regard  to  a  steam-com- 
munication by  one  of  those  routes  to  India. 

It  is  with  some  degree  of  hesitation  that  I  venture  to  touch 
upon  a  subject  so  foreign  to  my  profession,  and  attended  with 
ti«>me  difficulties ;  but  steam-navigation  is  imdoubtedly  lea 
complicated  than  that  of  sailing-vessels,  and  its  eztendon  to 
more  distant  countries  has  long  interested   me :  indeed,  to 
long  as  ten  years  ago,  I  made  some  calculations  as  to  Uie 
Rtcftm*        feasibility  of  the  communication  With  India  through  Egypt 
mtion         and  the  Mediterranean,  leaving  the  mails  at  Gibraltar,  Msltii 
]^  ^^        and  perhaps  Cape  Matapan  (for  Greece) ;  and  although  I  did 
ranfttn,       not  then  bring  the  subject  forward,  the  consideration  of 
Kgypc  <Mr.  ^{^^  question  naturally  prepared  my  mind  for  the  local  exa- 
mination   just    completed ;    the    result    of  which  I  shall 
proceed    to    give,   trusting  your  Excellency   will   bear  in 
mind  that  I  am  not  a  nautical  man,  and  therefore  have  a 
claim   to   allowances   for  any  errors  which  may  arise  from 
this  circimistance,  particularly  as  I  hope  they  will  not  be  so 
»<eriou8  as  to  mislead  anyone  in  considering  the  grand  questioB 
itself. 

The  Red  Sea  offers  some  serious  difficulties  to  the  navigation 


THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE  VI X  EGYPT.  365 

of  sailing-vessels :  its  western  side  is  shallow^  owing  to  coral     APPX. 
reefs ;  and  when  the  wind  is  not  so  favourable  as  to  permit 


their  keeping  the  Arabian  shore  on  board,  they  are  naturally  ^"^^'*^'' 

exposed  to  much  danger  on  the  Egyptian  side.     For  five  Sea;  its  five 

months,  befirinnine:  from  the  middle  of  May,  the  wind  blows  months' 

'       o  o  j^  periodical 

steadily  and  moderately  down  the  Eed  Sea,  during  which  winds, 

period  vessels  must  beat  up  the  whole  of  the  way  they  have  Ignorance 

to  go ;  and  as  the  Arab  navigators  neither  know  the  use  of  \!^  of 


the  compass,  nor  the  bearing  of  the  stars,  they  invariably  thia 
come-to  every  night ;  consequently  the  voyage  to  Suez,  &c*, 
would  be  exceedingly  long,  if  it  were  undertaken  at  all  in  this 
season  of  the  year,  when  all  navigation  m9>y  be  said  to  cease ; 
for  if  there  be  not  the  supposed  time  for  the  vessel  to  reach 
her  destination  early  in  May,  she  almost  invariably  waits  until 
the  autumn,  when  southerly  winds  set  in,  so  as  to  give  a 
speedy  passage,  and  having  a  fair  wind,  also  a  safe  one,  through  Deep  water 
the  deep  water  on  the  Arabian  side,  where  there  is  a  space  ^^^ 
sufficiently  broad  and  free  from  obstructions.  side. 

It  is  evident  that  the  foregoing  difficulties  do  not  apply  to  Ad\'antage 
steam-vessels,  which  can  make  a  straight  course  at  all  times,  steamer. 
and  which  could  ascend  the  Ked  Sea  against  the  moderate 
winds  prevailing  there,  at  the  rate  of  6  or  7  knots  per  hour, 
even  when  she  is  most  impeded ;  for  I  apprehend  that  a  vio- 
lent gale  of  wind  is  a  rare  occurrence  in  that  sea,  and  that 
the  sequel  would  prove,  that  a  steam-vessel  of  moderate  power 
can  ascend  with  much  rapidity,  even  at  the  most  unfavourable 
moments ;  so  that  there  remains  but  one  serious  difficulty —  Coal  de- 
the  coals,  and  this  could  be  overcome  by  forming  depots  at  formed  at 
Mocha,  Aden^  or  some  other  place  near  the  Straits  of  Babel-  Mocha,  &c. 
mandeb,  to  which  they  could  be  transported  in  many  ways :  thither  by 
for  instance,  by  Lake  Menzaleh,  and  across  the  isthmus  on  ^^  *^® 
camels  to  Suez,  or  up  the  Nile  to  Kenn^,  and  across  to  Kosseir  Koeseir. 
on  camels,  at  a  contracted  rate  of  8  or  10  piastres  (16«.  or  Expense. 
18«.)  for  9  or  10  cwt. ;  and  still  cheaper  were  an  establish- 
ment of  camels  to  be  kept  for  the  purpose,  as  is  done  by  the 
Pacha,  allowing  only  4  piastres  for  each  journey  to  the  Arab 
who  feeds,  keeps,  and  conducts  the  animal. 

The  transport  up  the  Nile  is  known  to  be  very  moderate ;  so  Veaaels 
would  the  subsequent  part  be  from  Kosseir  to  Mocha,  and  in  ^^j^  ^^ 
this  way  the  depot  could  be  speedily  formed  at  a  moderate  Mocha. 


366 


THE  OVERLAND  BOUTE  VlA  EGYPT, 


Route  to 
KosMir. 

Taittf 

froni 

KnMeirto 

Al«*ZMft- 

drift. 


The  Desert 
route  from 
Kosseir  to 
Cairo:  ol>- 
jectioiUL 


Transit 
through 
Egypt. 

A  riTer- 
going 
steamer  on 
the  Nile ; 

her  depth ; 

time  and 
distanoa^ 
&c. 

Upwards 
f  >t'  70  houn 
duwn- 
Mmrds,  42 
or  60  to 
Rosetta. 

Sfl  or  00 
hours  from 
KoHseir  txi 
Alexan- 
dria, and 
therererse 
n4orll6 
hours. 

lioute  by 


expense,  unlesB  it  should  prove  less  expensive  to  send  the 
coals  thither  altogether  by  sea. 

The  necessary  fuel  (whether  coals,  charcoal,  oil,  or  wood) 
being  placed  near  the  Straits  of  Babel  mandfh»  the  aol 
question  is,  how  high  up  the  Bed  Sea  it  would  be  moal 
desirable  the  steamer  should  ascend?  Kosseir  offers  one 
route :  its  port  if  an  open  one,  but  perfectly  safe,  with  sufi 
cient  water  within  300  yards  of  the  shore,  and  a  Tartar,  on  i 
dromedary,  can  reach  Cairo  and  Alexandria  in  the  oourae  a 
ten  days. 

Admitting  that  this  is  not  an  extreme  case,  it  is  evidesl 
that  it  can  only  apply  to  despatches,  and  the  officer  carryinj 
them,  and  that  passengers  would  either  take  much  men 
time,  or  choose  the  easier  route  of  crossing  to  Kenn^  nk 
descending  the  Nile,  which  would  consequently  either  sepanb 
the  passengers,  parcels,  &c  from  the  mails  and  despatchei^  oi 
involve  the  delay  of  the  latter,  at  Alexandria,  until  the  fonna 
could  arrive ;  for  which  reason,  if  the  route  by  KosBeir  mn 
adopted,  the  traveller  might  pass  from  the  shores  of  the  Bed 
Sea  to  the  Mediterranean  in  eleven  or  twelve  days— namdy, 
two  days  from  Kosseir  to  Kenn^  and  nine  or  ten  in  desccDd- 
ing  the  Nile  to  Alexandria. 

This  time,  however,  might  be  materially  shortened,  by  the 
use  of  a  river-going  steamer,  such  as  those  on  the  Clyde, 
some  of  which  only  draw  about  18  inches  water  ;  and  one  i 
good  deal  deeper,  say  2^  or  3  feet,  could  ascend  and  detoend 
the  Nile  at  all  times  to  Kosetta,  which  is  only  6  houn  bj 
the  Desert  from  Alexandria.  From  Kenn^  to  Rosetta  the  di»' 
tance  is  about  380  miles,  and  a  vessel  going  8  knots  an  hm 
would  accomplish  this  upwards,  against  the  stream  of  2^  milef 
per  hour,  in  about  70  hours,  and  dovmwarda  in  42  or  5C 
hours,  including  8  hours  to  go  from  Bosetta  to  Alexandria;  so 
that  the  journey  from  Kosseir  to  Alexandria  would  be  pe^ 
formed  in  86  or  90  hours,  and  that  from  the  latter  to  the 
former  in  114  or  116  hours,  with  very  little  fatigue  or  real 
difficulty ;  and  having  made  contracts  for  their  carriage,  and 
the  other  necessary  arrangements  about  coals,  &c.,  the  ex* 
pense  of  the  whole  would  be  sufficiently  moderate. 

The  next  route  that  presents  itself  is  by  Suez,  which  port 
the  steamer  would  reach  in  about  25  hours  more  than  she 


THE   OVERLAND   ROUTE   VlA   EGYPT.  367 

requires  to  go  to  Kosseir ;  here  there  is  a  safe  anchorage  and     APPX, 
flhelter  within  five  miles  of  the  town,  and  she  cannot  go  higher  ._    '     ^ 
until  the  sand  is  removed,  which  chokes  the  passage  up  to 
the   town,   in   which  there  is  a  depth  of  7  or  8  feet  only. 
Tbe  subsequent  difficulties  in  crossing  the  Isthmus,  and  em-  The  Isth- 
barking,  are  greater  than  those  attending  the  port  of  Alex-  ^^' 
andria,  but,  were  they  once  overcome,  the  route  of  Suez  would 
be  still  quicker. 

Before,  however,  I  enter  more  into  its  details,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  endeavour  to  describe  the  situation  of  Damietta 
and  the  adjacent  coast,  with  the  impediments  when  embark- 
ing, &c     Damietta  is   on   the   right   bank  of  the  eastern  Outline  of 
branch  of  the  Nile,  and  at  about  8  miles  from  its  mouth,  L^phT^f 
where  there  is  a  bar  of  about  150  yards  long,  having  rather  Damietia, 
leBB  than  4  feet  water  when  the  Nile  is  at  the  lowest,  and 
«bout  7^  feet  when  at  the  highest,  formed  by  the  deposits  of 
the  river,  which  have  been  allowed  to  accumulate  from  time 
immemorial,  without  any  efforts  whatever  being  made  to 
remove  this  serious  impediment,  which  obliges  all  vessels  to  Its  bars. 
take  in  and  discharge  their  cargoes  outside  the  river,  where 
they  anchor  in  moderately  safe  ground,  and  the  goods  are 
transported  in  *  germs'  (a  sort  of  lighter),  which  pass  constantly  *  Oerms.' 
to  and  from  Damietta  over  the  bar,  the  rest  of  the  river 
inside  of  it  being  sufficiently  deep.      In  bad  weather  the 
vessels  run  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  a  bay  formed  by  a  5*^,**^ 

,  Tachta- 

neck  of  land  projecting  NE.  of  the  Nile,  and  distant  (from  rass. 
the  bar) about  4  miles;  this  anchorage — called  'Tachtarass' 
in  Arabic,  and  *  Cambroon '  in  Italian — affords  sufficient  water  chorage. 
for  large  vessels  at  between  1^  and  3  miles  from  the  shore, 
with  sufficient  space  for  a  small  fleet  to  anchor,  and  smooth 
water  for  the  boats  to  communicate  with  the  shore.    The  bay 
is  open  to  the  NE.,  but  vessels  are  considered  secure  at  single 
anchor;  and   as  no  accidents  are  remembered,  or  at  least 
spoken  of,  it  may  be  concluded  to  be  really  safe.     Tachtarass  I^stanco 
is   about   8   miles   from   Damietta  by   land,   chiefly  along  Damietta. 
Lake  Menzaleh,  from  which  a  part  of  the  anchorage  is  sepa-* 
rated  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  and  through  which  there  is  a  Passage  of 
communication  for  boats,  by  the  passage  of  Stomo-Suan,  4  or  Suan  to 
5  feet  deep,  leading  from  the  bay  into  the  lake.  ^®  ^^^' 

Running  ESE.  from  Tachtarass,  is   the  narrow  strip  of 


368 


THE   OVERLAXD  BOUTE  Yll 


APPX. 

I. 

* , — — ' 

Descrip- 
tion of 
Lake  Men- 
MaXeh, 


Extent  of 
Lake  Men- 


Bottom 
depth. 

IilandB. 
BoAta. 

Fifth. 


Fisher- 
men ; 
towns  on 
the  eastern 
side  of  the 
lake. 


Tineh,  and 
the  French 
cut,  &c. 


sandy  land  separating  Lake  Menzaleh  firom  the  sea,  and 
through  which  are  the  entrances — Stomo-Soan,  abont  3 
miles  from  the  anchorage ;  that  of  Booca  Dibeh,  at  about  10 
or  12  miles ;  that  of  Stomo-G^emileh,  at  15  or  16  miles ;  and, 
finally,  the  ancient  one  of  Tineh  (now  closed),  at  25  or  28 
miles  from  thence. 

Lake  Menzaleh  begins  about  l^  mile  fix>m  Damietta,  aod 
is  an  irregular  parallelogram,  nearly  43  miles  from  ESK  to 
WNW.,  and  from  11  to  12  miles  broad,  NK  and  SW.  from 
the  sea  to  the  land  side;  the  bottom  is  a  mixture  of  mud  and 
sand,  generally  covered  with  reeds,  but  quite  level ;  so  that 
the  greatest  depth  of  the  lake  does  not  vary  more  than  6  or 
8  inches,  being  rarely  much  under  4  feet,  and  seldom  mate- 
rially above  it,  eoccept  where  the  sea  entera. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  small  grassy  uninhabited 
islands  spread  over  the  lake,  between  which  the  numeroof 
fishing-boatfi  pass  in  every  direction  with  the  utmost  fiudli^; 
and  by  placing  nets  and  reed  inclosures  in  certain  plaoo; 
they  take  sea-fish  with  a  facility  and  to  an  extent  unknown 
elsewhere.  The  boats  are  very  numerous,  having  an  open 
grating  or  well  to  keep  some  of  the  fish  alive,  and  of  a  coO' 
struction  at  once  broad  and  sharp  underneath,  so  as  to  giT< 
speed  with  little  draught  of  water,  yet  carrying  a  good  de^ 
— some  more  than  20  tons,  but  the  smaller  only  8  or  10 
and  instead  of  rowing,  they  are  propelled  by  poles  agaiiul 
the  bottom,  when  the  wind  is  not  favourable  for  the  use  o 
sails. 

The  fishermen  live  at  the  towns  on  the  southern  an( 
eastern  borders  of  the  lake — viz.,  at  Menzaleh,  which  is  on  tin 
canal  from  Mansoura,  and  one  hour  distant  from  the  lake;  al 
Matarieh,  which  is  on  it ;  at  Saan,  which  is  two  hours  distant 
but  connected  by  means  of  a  canal ;  and  finally  at  Tineh,  i 
village  constructed  by  the  French  at  about  200  yards  beyoik 
the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lake,  but  still  communicatiiij 
with  it  by  means  of  a  small  canal. 

Tineh  opens  towards  the  sea,  and  has  the  advantage  oi 
anchor&ge  in  good  weather  a  little  way  from  the  shore  ;  and  the 
French  made  a  cut  (for  their  army  going  against  Syria),  so  ac 
to  permit  its  passing  from  the  lake  to  the  seacoast  opposite 
Tineh,  without  l)eing  exposed  to  the  fire  of  our  ships.     Thifl 


THK  OVERLAND  BOUTB  VlA  KGYPT.  369 

passage  is  now  closed ;  but  were  it  reopened,  it  would  offer    APPX. 
the  easiest  and  shortest  route  to  Suez,  there  being  but  2^         ^' 

days,  or  30  hours,  of  pilgrim's  travelling  over  the  Desert  to  Tineh  to 

that  place  from  Tineh,  ^^  ^* 

The  next  shortest  route  is  that  of  Saan^  now  most  in  use  Saan  zonte 

by  the  Mecca  pilgrims  from  Vamietta.    This  village  is  two  ?*^  ""^ 

hours  from  the  lake  near  Matarieh,  to  which  it  is  joined  by  a  pilgrimaT 
small  canal,  with  from  3^  to  4^  feet  water,  down  and  up 

which  the  boats  pass  at  all  times  to  fish.     A  line  drawn  from  DiBtance^ 

Damietta  to  Suez  would  pass  over  about  35  miles  of  the  t"^*®- 

*  to  SUlCSa 

lake  to  Matarieh,  which  distance  is  considered  16  hours'  work 

for  the  country  boats,  when  propelled  the  whole  way  by 

means  of  poles ;  and  the  remainder  of  the  way  from  Saan  to 

Suez  is  three  days,  or  36  hours  of  caravan-time.    Therefore 

putting  out  of  the  question  the  removal  of  the  sand  to  open  Bemoral 

the  bar  of  Damietta,  there  remains  the  resource  of  the  Bay  of  ^ua  w' 

Tachtarass,  where  a  steamer  might  await  in  safety ;  and  with  TaehtmM 

one  intervening  station  in  the  Desert,  to  give  a  relief  of  ani-  ^^'  *^ 

mals,  the  journey  from  Suez  to  Saan  would  be  performed  in  Sacs  to 

24  or  28  hours,  and  the  subsequent  part  over  the  lake,  with  a  28^m^ 

small  steamer  or  swift-rowing  boat,  in  8  or  10  more,  going  a  swift 

straight  to  the  western  extremity  of  the  lake,  and  through  ^^^^  >°  ^ke 

the  passage  of  Stomo-Suan  to  the  anchorage  of  Tachtarass,  coiunimi- 

the  place  of  embarkation,  which  would  be  reached  in  56  or  ^*^  ^*^ 

Tachta- 
62  hours  from  the  latitude  of  Kosseir,  whilst  the  route  from 


the  latter  to  Alexandria  by  the  Nile  would  consume  86  or  90 
hours. 

In  addition  to  the  consideration  of  less  time,  the  route  of  Facility  as 
Suez  would  also  have  the  advantage  as  to  the  facility  of  trans-  ^^^ 
porting  coals.     The  Arabs  of  the  Isthmus  and  those  of  Mount  The  Arabs 
Sinai  are  easily  dealt  with  ;  they  are  content  to  make  the  ^^edto 
journey  for  16  piastres;  and  anything  like  permanent  em-  work  on 
ployment  would  be  hailed  with  joy,   and  reduce   the  rate  termsr^ 
to   8    or   10   piastres  for   each  camel   carrying   from   7   to 
10  cwt»     A  party  of  those  of  Mount  Sinai  followed  me  some 
distance,  in  the  hope   that  I  would  take  them   one  day's 
fourney,  and  they  go  as  far  as  Cairo  in  search  of  employ-  c^^  m^y 
)ieiit ;  so  that,  unless  some  intrigue  should  be  icsed  at  Alex-  ^^  trans- 
indria,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  coals  might  be  carried  Sfo^  hr 
icrcMss  Lake  Menzaleh,  and  thence  to  Suez,  or  even  Mocha,  at  a  ^'  '^^- 

B   B 


370  THE  OYEBLAND  BOUTE  VlA  EGTTT. 

APPX.    moderate  expense;  and  the  consumption  on  the  Red  Set 
>_    /     ^   would  prove  much  less  than  the  same  distance  elsewhere 


because,  for  a  considerable  portion  of  the  year,  there  is  a  fai 
wind  dmvn  at  one  period,  and  up  at  the  other,  which  wouli 
Um  of  nils  make  it  well  worth  while  to  unship  the  paddles,  since  tb 
■teamer,  vcssel  could  easily  make  8  or  9  knots  without  steam,  hanDj 
during  the  a  nice  breeze  and  smooth  water.  The  Arab  junk  hired  t^ 
^^dM,  ^.  ^^^  ^^  ^  Koeseir  (from  Suez)  made  that  voyage  (of  30( 
Timi*  from  or  320  miles)  in  four  short  days,  or  37  hours  of  actual  sailing 
&i«  to       anchoring  at  night,  as  they  invariably  do. 

In  this  view  of  the  question,  there  remains  only  one  can 
where  a  difficulty  might  arise  in  the  sequel — namely,  if  tbi 
If  Tachta-  roadstead  of  Tachtarass  should  prove  less  safe  than  I  hifB 
»"  »"».  ventured  to  represent  it ;  but  I  believe  it  will  be  found  mi- 
ciently  good  to  be  adopted,  unless  that  of  Alexandria  beulti- 
two  n-  mately  preferred :  and  there  are,  besides,  two  other  resonictt 
■omvet:      ^yy  the  route  of  Suez,  one  or  both  of  which  would  be  availahK 

and  become  still  more  advantageous  as  to  tima 
lit,  re-  The  first  is  the  removal  of  the  bar  at  Damietta,  bj09 

B^etu  ™®*"^8  ^  diflScult  task  with  machinery,  and  in  which  expeue 
bar;  and     the  merchants  would  readily  join. 

2nd,  open-  The  second  is  the  improvement  of  the  Boccaz  of  Stooo- 
o*  ^u^  Gemileh,  also  opening  that  of  Tineh,  so  as  to  commmiieit* 
&c.       '     with   Suez   by   the    latter    place,  thus   avoiding  Damifltti 

altogether. 

Itadeiicrip-       Stomo-Gemileh  is  at  times  resorted  to  bv  small  Sjri» 
**°*  vessels  for  shelter  in  bad  weather ;  it  opens  about  NNE^  i" 

is  nearly  half  a  mile  long,  and  50  yards  wide.    The  W; 
Depth  of     depth  of  water  I  found  exceeded  eleven  feet;  but  asl^j 
beset  by  the  Arabs  during  my  observations,  and  met  »■• 
annoyance,  I  cannot  be  quite  positive  that  this  is  the  ta^l 
depth,  though  I  believe  it  to  be  so,  and  that  at  all  seasoBi'j 
the  year — for  there  is  no  current  to  form  a  deposit  ha^«*'j 
evident  from  the  Boccaz  having  remained  so  long  opea  1>* 
land  is  low  and  sandy  on  each  side  of  the  entrance,  and  v 
Theiurf.     surf  moderate,  owing  to  the  opening  inclining  toward*  *■•' 
Syrian  coast.     Once  inside  of  the  Boccaz,  the  lake  is  ©«*• 
six  feet  deep,  and  farther  inwards  its  depth  decreases  to  »b<i^ 
four  feet. 

I  feel  convinced,  from  the  nature  of  the  soil,  that"* 


THE  OVERLAND  EOUTE  VlA  EGYPT.  371 

opening  would  be  easily  enlarged  by  machinery,  so  as  to     APPX. 
admit  a  steamer  with  more  facility,  and  that^  once  enlarged,        ^' 


it  would  long  remain  so:  in  addition  to  this  labour,  how-  Once  open- 
ever,  it  would  be  desirable  to  form  a  kind  of  small  basin,  remain  so. 
immediately  inside   of  the  entrance,  merely  by  driving  a  Basin  of 
slight  row  of  piles,  to  keep  out  the  deposits  of  the  lake ;  and  f**^v- 
thus  enable  the  vessel  to  remain  afloat,  and  ready  for  sea,  at  a  row  of 
all  times.  P^- 

Stomo-Cremileh  would  have  two  ways  of  communicating  Commimi- 
with  Tineh — the  one  inside  of  the  lake,  the  other  outside  by  ^^^'^  ^ 

^    tween 

aea  in  calm  weather — and  either  to  be  accomplished  in  less  Stomo- 
than  three  hours,  with  a  fast  boat ;  so  that  from  Suez  to  the  ^?^?^t 

t  11.1  *•  "*^  Tineh. 

steamer,  or  the  reverse,  would  require  but  27  or  30  hours  So^tothe 
at  the  outride.  ^^^ 

In  the  other  opening  of  Dibeh  (8  or  9  miles  westward),  honn. 
which  has  a  castle,  erected  by  the  French,  for  its  defence,  ^?^  ^ 
I  found  but  5  and  6  feet  water,  throughout  nearly  a  mile 
in  length,  and  100  yards  in  breadth ;  it  is  capable  of  much 
improvement,  but  at  a  far  greater  expense  than  the  other ; 
and  when  finished,  it  woidd  be  more  distant  from  Suez. 

I  have  some  reason  to  believe  that  the  Pacha,  whilst  he  The 
may  avowedly  consent,  and  promise  assistance,  would  aecreUy  ^*ch»'* 
make  difficulties,  and  use  intrigues,  to  counteract  communi-  wishes  as 
cation  through  his  territories ;  as  it  is  natural  he  should  not  ^  ^^^^'^f 
dedre  to  make  Egypt  the  channel  of  such  an  important  in- 
tercourse as  must  draw  the  attention  of  Europe  to  that  part 
of  the  world.    But  were  he  heartily  to  sanction  and  second 
this  project,  the  intercourse  might  be  immediately  opened 
througli  Tachtarass,  with  a  swift  boat  on  the  lake,  going 
thither  from  Saan,  through  the  passage  of  Stomo-Suan,  and  Temponzy 
■ending  coals  in  this  way  to  Suez ;  until,  as  a  more  perma-  *""p" 
nent  arrangement,  either  the  bar  of  Damietta  be  removed,  or  permanent 
the  passage  of  Stomo-G-emileh  and  Tineh  be  opened  more  **"®*' 
effectually  in  order  to  cross  the  Desert  to  Suez  from   the 
latter  point. 

By  the  route  of  the  Nile  and  Kosseir,  the  Pacha  could  The  route 
hardly  manage  to  create  any  serious  difficulties.   That  river  is  ^^  *^*  ^^® 
the  beaten  highway  for  all  transport  in  Egypt,  and  the  ex-  and  little  * 
pense  of  boats,  and  all  elsef,  is  not  only  moderate,  but  so  well  d*^'^!^* 
understood,  that  no  difficulties  could  be  made  which  would 

BB  2 


372 


THE  OVEBLAND  ROUTE  VlA  EGYPT. 


APPX. 
I. 

* 1 " 

Small 
steamer  on 
the  Nile. 


Bep^of 
fbel,  &c. 


Charcoal. 


Ababdi 
Arabs 
easily  dealt 
with. 


Opening 
through 
the  Isth- 
mus of 
Suez. 


Lerel  of 
the  Red 
Sea  and 
Mediter- 
ranean. 


not  have  a  general  application  to  the  commerce  of  t1 
country  itself.  Therefore,  to  put  steam  in  operation  hy  t 
Nile,  nothing  more  seems  to  be  requisite  than  the  coDstrv 
tion  of  a  small  vessel,  adapted  to  a  river ;  by  having  a  gc 
deal  of  width  of  beam,  and  little  depth,  manned  with  eij 
or  ten  men,  to  navigate  her  between  Rosetta  and  Kenne, 
Coptos ;  where  a  depot  of  fuel  would  be  formed,  by  tra 
sportiug  it  from  the  sea  thither  in  the  common  Nile-bo 
(known  to  all  the  world  to  be  sufficiently  cheap),  unles 
should  seem  preferable  to  purchase  charcoal,  at  the  i 
of  8  or  12  piastres  for  a  common  sackful,  being 
market-price  of  this  article  in  Kosseir,  brought  thither  fi 
a  distanoe  of  several  leagues,  by  the  Ababdi  Arabs;  i 
whom  alone  there  would  be  the  possibility  of  any  intrij 
so  as  to  produce  annoyance,  in  passing  the  Desert;  anc 
would  be  much  easier  to  keep  them  quiet  by  means  of  a  li 
money,  and  constant  employment,  than  for  the  Pacha  to  i 
them  up :  they  are,  besides,  not  at  all  difficult  to  deal  w 
and  far  from  formidable,  in  disposition,  towards  others. 

Any  of  these  routes,  however,  which  may  be  adopted,  y 
probably  only  pave  the  way  to  the  realisation  of  the  gn 
idea,  so  long  indulged  in  England  and  other  parts  of  Eun 
of  connecting  the  Mediterranean  with  the  Red  Sea.  A  11 
time  will  probably  remove  the  ill-founded  apprehension  of 
creasing  the  height  of  the  former  by  the  influx  of  the  latl 
for  whatever  natural  causes  can  be  supposed  to  exist  lik 
to  maintain  the  Red  Sea  at  a  higher  level,  can  hardly  fail 
influence  equally  the  Mediterranean  at  the  distance  of  li) 
more  than  60  miles.  The  land,  it  is  true,  shelves  gradiu 
from  the  Red  Sea  to  the  western  shore  of  the  Isthmus,  i^ 
mean  diflTerence  of  18  feet,  according  to  the  French  en 
neers.  But  it  is  very  questionable  whether  the  sea  itf 
is  really  higher,  communicating,  as  it  does  already,  with  t 
Mediterranean,  round  Africa ;  but  even  if  it  could  prove  » 
an  additional  inlet  will  no  more  increase  the  height  of  1 
latter  sea,  than  do  the  unceasing,  and  infinitely  viore  vo 
minous  ones,  pouring  in  from  the  Atlantic  on  one  side,  a 
Black  Sea  on  the  other ;  for  the  siu*plus  is,  and  equally  woi 

*  It  18  takpn  for  grant-ed  that  there  is  no  such  thing  as  a  lovol,  as  legi 
the  Boa,  which  takes  the  same  cunre  as  the  earth  itself. 


THE  OVERLAND  ROUTE  Vll  EGYPT.  373 

l)e,  di5;po6ed  of  by  evaporation,  when  seeniingly  greater,  be-     APPX. 
csuse  the  influx  must  be  reflated  by  the  quantity  of  water  ««- — r — ' 


exhaled ;  and,  I  apprehend,  can  neither  be  more  nor  less,  Communi- 
whether  supplied  through  one  or  »ix  inlets ;  on  which  prin-  ^^^  ^he 
ciple  the  Mediterranean  (when  it  shall  communicate)  would  Meditep- 
as  readily  give  to,  as  receive  from,  the  Eed  Sea,  were  not  the  2^^^^° 
tenaperature  of  the  latter,  and  its  exhalation,  lessened  by  the 
cool  north  winds  prevailing  during  the  heat  of  the  year ;  for 
which  reason,  only  a  moderate  current  may  be  expected  to 
run  into  the  Mediterranean ;  and  it  is,  in  fact,  rather  to  be 
feared  that  such  an  inlet  would  not  give  a  sufficient  body  of 
water  to  open  a  noble  passage  for  ships  of  moderate  burthen, 
than  that  any  prejudicial  increase  should  be  the  consequence 
to  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 

As  to  the  executive  part,  these  is  but  one  opinion.  There  No  natural 
are  no  serious  natural  difficulties ;  not  a  single  mountain  in-  ^*^e  w^ay 
tervenes,  scarcely  what  deserves  to  be  called  a  hillock ;  and  in 
a  country  where  labour  can  be  had  without  limit,  and  at  a 
rate  infinitely  below  that  of  any  other  part  of  the  world,  the 
expense  would  be  a  moderate  one  for  a  single  nation,  and 
scarcely  worth  dividing  between  the  great  kingdoms  of 
Europe,  who  would  be  all  benefited  by  the  measure. 

Were  the  Pacha  and  Sultan  to  consent  heartily,  the  former  Employ- 
could  employ  500,000  Arabs  on  this  work,  as  he  did  on  the  Arabs^on 
Mahmoudieh  Canal ;  feeding  them  out  of  his  stores,  so  as  to  this  work. 
put  nearly  the  whole  of  the  contracted  sum  into  his  pocket. 
Mehemet  AH  is  fond  of  speculations,  and  this  would  be  a 
grand  and  beneficial  one  for  the  world,  as  well  as  a  paying 
one  for  his  co£fers. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be, 
Your  Excellency's  most  obedient  humble  servant^ 

F.  R.  CHESNEY,  Captain  R.A, 

To  His  EzceUency  tho  Right  Hon.  Sir  Robert  Gordon, 
G.C.B.  and  G.C.H.,  &c.,  &c.,  &c. — Constantinople. 


I 


374 


GENERAL  ACCOUNTS   OF  THE  EXTEDITIOK. 


;  I 


APPX. 

IL 

■*— — I ' 

Expend!- 
tnreduring 
the  Eu- 
phrates 
£zpedition 
(pp.  70  and 
71  of  Par- 
liamentary 
Pftpen). 


APPENDIX  n, 
GENERAL  ACCOUNTS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

The  following  Statement  of  Expenditure  during 
Euphrates  Expedition  (from  1834  to  1838),  is  gi 
from  the  Papers  submitted  to  both  Houses  of  Pai 
ment,  and  ordered  to  be  printed  February  22, 1838 

Abstract  Statement  of  the  Expenses  of  the  EupmtATES  Exr 
DiTiON,  under  the  Command  of  Colonel  F.  R«  Chesnet,  R  Jl 


ITEMS. 


Cost  of  the  large  iron  steamer  caUed  '  Euphrates,' 
of  108  feet  length,  19  feet  beam,  with  two 
engines  of  25-hor8e  power  each,  including  bed- 
ding, furniture,  crockery,  cooking  utensils,  &c. 

Cost  of  the  smaller  iron  steamer  called  '  Tigris,* 
of  68  feet  length,  15  feet  beam,  with  two  engines 
of  10-horse  power  each,  including  bedding,  fur- 
niture, crockery,  cooking  utensils,  &c 

Additional  ship  and  other  stores  provided  at 
Liverpool :  187  tons  of  coal,  400  sacks  for  ditto, 
spare  iron,  plank,  canvas,  blocks,  and  tackle, 
cordage,  and  sundry  shipping  expenses,  includ- 
ing boat-hire,  porterage,  and  steamer  towing 
out  of  docks,  &c.  .... 

Stores  supplied  by  the  Ordnance,  consisting  of 
six  9-pounder  carronades  (iron),  and  one  brass 
1 -pounder  gun,  with  their  carriages,  complete; 
twelve  1 -pounder  brass  swivel  guns,  eight  wall- 
pieces,  60  muskets  and  bayonets,  16  rifles  and 
bayonets,  40  carbines,  100  pistols,  80  swords 
(light  cavalry),  60  cutlasses,  6-  and  8-poimder 
Congreve  and  1^- pounder  Whale  rockets, with 
double  set  of  tubes  to  each  nature  ;  signal 
rockets;  spherical  and  tin  case  shot;  a  large 
supply  of  ammunition ;  six  in&ntry  cylindrical 
pontoons;  three  marquees,  ten  bell  and  two 
observatory  tents;  mining,  armourers*,  smiths*, 
and  carpenters*  tools ;  four  platform  and  one 
pontoon  waggon;  harness  for  horses;  diving- 

Carried  forward 


AmoQiiti 


£    s. 


6,093  15 


2,040    0 


821  12 


£8,955     7 


GENERAL  ACCOUNTS  OF  THE  EXPEDmON. 


375 


Abstract  Statement  of  Expenses — continued. 


APPX, 

n. 


ITEMS. 


Brought  forward  . 
bell,  with  air-pump;  buoys,  mooring-chauis, 
and  numerous  other  stores;  also  expense  of 
instructing  miners  at  Chatham 
An  assortment  of  goods  from  Sheffield  and  Man- 
chester, for  presents  to  the  Arabs,  consisting  of 
ib wling-pieces,  double  and  single  pistols,  swords, 
flbut  knives,  table  knives  and  forks,  spoons, 
finger  and  ear  rings,  with  an  assortment  of  soft 
goods  from  Glasgow  .... 
Payments  through  the  Ordnance  for  instruments, 

and  the  repair  of  others  returned 
Cost  of  provisions  from  His  Majesty's  stores  at  Cork 
Ditto       ditto     and  stores  from  ditto  at  Malta 
Cost  of  provisions,  &c.,  from  the  Hon.  East  India 
Company,  Bombay       .... 
Fresh  provisions  at  Cork  for  present  use  . 
Ditto       ditto    at  Malta  for  ditto 
Freight  of  the  ship  '  George  Canning,'  to  convey 
the  Expedition,  with  steamers  and  stores,  to  the 
Syrian  coast     ..... 
Cost  of  coals  conveyed  to  the  Persian  Gulf  by  the 

Hon.  East  India  Company 
Expense  of  transporting  the  steamers  and  stores 
from  the  Mediterranean  Sea  to  the  River  Eu- 
phrates— viz.,  840  camels  and  160  mules 

Payments  by  Major  Estcourt  on  this  account 
Lieut.  Lynch,  Indian  Navy, 
Lieut.  CleaveJand,  R.N. 
Mr.  H.  Eden,  R.N. 
Mr.  Charlewood,  R.N. 
Mr.  Fitzjames,  R.N. 
Lieut.  H.  F.  Murphy,  R.E. 
Mr.  A.  Hector 
Mr.  W,  Ainsworth     . 
Lieut.  R.  B.  Lynch  . 
Mr.  C.  Rassam  (interpreter) 
Mr.  W.  ElHot  „ 

Mr.  Seyd  Ali  „ 

Passages  of  ten  workmen  returning  to  Liverpool, 
with  freight  and  insurance  of  several  cases  con- 
taining papers  and  fossils 
Pajrments   to  nine  officers,  sixteen  artillerymen, 
four   sappers  and  miners,   thirty  seamen,  and 

Carried  forward     . 


» 


» 


Amounts. 


£       8. 
8,955     7 


2,128     4     7J 


8^  Eaphratea 
Expendi- 
ture oon- 
tinned  (pp. 
70  and  71 
of  Pallia* 
mentaij 
Pftpen). 


2,200  0  0 

1,050  10  5 

143  6  4 

751  8  8 

861  7  1 

88  19  2 

93  19  5| 


931  14  6 
829  8  4 


998  5 
504  15 
192  7 
634  14 
265  17 
534  16 
270  14  1 

15  5  11 
168  15  0^ 

61  18  1: 

65  19  9j 
410  8  Oi 

46  1  10[ 
5  16  a 


192  10  2i 


Le21,347  7  Oi 


376 


GENERAL  ACCOUNTS  OF  THE  EXPEDITIOK. 


APPX. 
II. 


AssraACT  Statement  of  Exfenses— con^tnu^J. 


EnphfiiM 
Expendi- 
tim  con- 
tiniifd  (pp. 
70  and  71 
ofPariia- 

BMDtaiT 

Pftpcn). 


I 


I 


ITEBCa 


Brought  forward   . 
Beyen  Malteae,  from  the  24th  September  1834, 
the  date  of  the  sappers  commencing  woik  at 
Liverpool,  and  the  18th  Maj  1887,  the  return 
to  England  of  the  Expedition   . 

Pay  to  two  engineers,  two  carpenters,  and  seven 
boilermakers,  civil  workmen  t^en  from  Liverpool 

Expense  incurred  in  the  repair  of  roads  in  Syria, 
with  Lieut.  Lynch's  journey  from  England  to 
forward  the  same  .... 

Erection  of  houses,  worksliops,  slips  for  vessels  at 
Port  William,  with  deep  ditch  to  enclose  the  whole; 
superintended  and  paid  by  Lieut.  Cockbum 

Surveying  and  carrying  a  line  of  levels  from  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  to  the  River  Euphrates; 
finished  by  Mr.  W.  T.  Thomson 

Conveyance  of  the  Indian  mail  to  England  afler 
the  accident  to  the  'Euphrates*  engine,  with 
Seyd  Ali*s  losses  {£1^)  on  that  occasion 

Gratuities  granted  to  soldiers  and  seamen . 
„  „  civil  workmen 

Amount  of  general  supplies  of  provisions  and  stores, 
from  May  1825  to  Sept  1836,  by  Mr.  Rilby, 
at  Aleppo,  including  commission  at  2  per  cent. 

To  Mr.  Laird  at  Liverpool,  commission,  at  5  per  cent., 
on  payments  made  by  him  to  workmen  and  others 

To  Messrs.  Hunter  and  Ross  at  Malta,  for  sup- 
plies and  payments  made  to  the  fiuxiilies  of 
Maltese  employed  on  the  Expedition    • 

Expense  in  boat-hire,  conveying  coals,  and  other 
expenses  in  forming  depots  of  fuel  on  the 
River  Euphrates  .... 

Spare  stores  and  engineers*  tools  furnished  by  Mr. 
Fawcett ;  also  repair  of '  Euphrates*  engine 

Colonel  Chesney^s  travelling  and  other  expenses  to 
Liverpool  and  back  to  London,  superintending 
the  preparations  of  the  Expedition 

An  anchor  supplied  by  the  Master  of  the  '  George 
the  Fourth  *  for  the  '  Euj^rates '  steamer 

Compensation  to  officers  and  men  for  losses  in 
the  'Tigris  *  steamer,  as  per  annexed  Account  . 

Current  expenses  of  the  party  for   provisions, 
purchase  and  keep  of  horses  and  bollocks ;  hire 
of  native  smiths,  carpenters,  masons,  and  la- 
Carried  forward 


Amoonto. 


£      8.    d 
21,347   7   C 


4,020  17   9 
2,269  19  11 

878    1   ; 

196    1    1 

157    4   : 


154  4 
333  0 
140    0 


2,054  13 
131  14 

875  18 


575  14 

191    7  1 

218  15 

8  17 

2^81    9 

£35,280    1 


GENBBAL  ACCOUNTS  OF  TUK  EXPEDITION. 


877 


Abstract  Statemekt  of  Exfzsses— continued. 


ITEMS. 


Brought  forward    ^ 
bourers;  with  purchases  of  timber^  charcoal| 
iron,  &c. ;  after  deducting  396/.   lis,  bd.  for 
the  sale  of  goods,  passage-money  received,  <&c. 

Deduct  the  value  of  the  steamers,  arms,  am- 
mimition,  instruments,  and  stores  turned 
over  to  the  Hon.  East  India  Company  . 

Actual  expense  of  the  Expedition    .     £ 


Amounts. 


£      a.     d. 
35,280     1     9^ 

4,718     1     8 


39,998    3    0^ 
10,360  12     9 


Euphrates 
Ezpeudi* 
ture  con- 
tinued (pp. 
70  and  71 
ofParlia- 
mentaiy 
Papers). 


29,637  10     3^ 


February  5,  1838. 


F.  R.  CHESNEY. 


Ldditional  Expenditure  for  Payments  made  to  Individuals  for  Losses 
in  'Tigris,*  and  Travelling  Expenses  to  England  after  that  Event. 


ITEMS. 


k>lonel  F.  R.  Chesney.     (No  return.) 

."•o  Lieut.  H.  B.  Lynch,  I.N.,  for  losses  in  'Tigris' 

„     travelling  expenses,  &c.,  paid  by  Treasury 

Lieut  R.  B.  Lynch,  passage-money  retmned 

ToDr.  C.F.  Staunton,  R.A.,  for  losses  £130     0     0 

„  additional  travelling  expenses       30     0     0 

„  six  months'  additional  pay  68  12     6 


„  travelling  expenses  home  from  Bagdad 

[^o  Mr.  A.  A.  Staunton,  for  losses      £130     0  0 

„  additional  travelling  expenses       30    0  0 

six  months*  additional  pay    .         68  12  6 


»» 


„  travelling  expenses  home  from  Bagdad 
7o  Lieut  Eden,  R.N.,  for  losses  .      £  80    0 
additional  travelling  expenses        20    0 


99 


two  months'  additional  pay 


8     6 


0 
0 
8 


(N.B. — £60  travelling  money  included  in 

Lieut  Lynch's  £329  I3tf.  lid.) 

?o  Mr.  W.  T.  Thomson,  for  losses    £  100    0    0 

„  additional  travelling  money  20    0     0 

„  two  months'  additional  pay  12     0    0 


Carried  forward 


Amounts. 


£      s.  d. 

130     0  0 

329  13  11 

50    0  0 


Additional 
Expendi- 
ture for  the 
officer!  and 
men  (fiponi 
p.72ofPar« 
uamentazy 
Papers). 


228  12 
60  0 


6 
0 


228  12 
60  0 


6 
0 


108  6  8 


132  0  0 
£1,327  6  7 


378 


GENERAL  ACXX)UNTS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


APPX. 
IL 


Additional  Expenditure  for  Payments,  S^c-^  eonlinued. 


ITEMS. 


AdditioDil 
Ezpendi- 
tune  for  the 
oAeenand 
men  (from 
p.72ofPu>- 
limmenUxy 
Pftpen). 


Brought  forward    •• 
To  Mr.  W.  T.  Thomson,  advanced  at  Anna  for 

traYelliag  expenses 
To  Mr.  A.  Hector,  for  losses  £  300    0     0 

as  a  gratuity   .         100     0     0 


f) 


To  £.  Lowrie,  for  losses  . 
D.  Suckau,      „ 

W.  Benson,      „  .  .  . 

To  motherof  Eussof  Sader  £30 
Haaran,  a  native  .  2 


Through 

the 
Treasury. 


Antonio, 
Ualil,  „ 

Mohammed,  „ 
Everdice, 
Chacoa, 


)i 


>• 


w 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 


0 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 


0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 


Mr.  Wcrry,  Consul  of  Aleppo,  is  to  draw  on  the 
Treasury  to  cover  these  sums.  £  a.  d. 

To  the  relatives  of  Mr.  Strathers,  engineer  39     8  0 

Thomas  Booth,  seaman  4  10  0 
Benjamin  Gibson,  „  4  10  0 
George  Liddel,  „  4  10  0 
Thomas  Batty,  „  4  10  0 
John  Hunter,         „         4  10  0 


n 


tf 


•J 


Sergeant  Clark,  R.A.  20  0  0 
Gunner  R.  Turner, K. A.  8  8  0 
Gunner  Jas.  Hay,  K.A.    8     0  0 


Gunner  James  Moore,  R.A 
Gunner  Thomas  Jones,  R.A. 
Private  A.  McDonald,  R.S.  &  M. 
To  Corporal  Benjamin  Fuiher,  R.S.  &  M. 
Gunner  Willuun  Grosling,  R.A. 
Giacomo,  seaman         .... 
Mr.  Hector*s  expenses  in  recovering  property  from 
the*Tigris'     .  .  .  .  •. 

Expense  of  party  living,  &c.  whilst  detached  on 
this  service      ..... 

Expenditure  in  consequence  of  the  loss  of  the  1 
*  Tigrifl^*  included  in  the  general  account       .  / 


AmoantB. 


£       f.    I 
1,327    5    7 


60    0   0 


400    0  0 

11    9  4 

4  11  0 

8  11  2 


45    0    0 


Gl  18    0 


86 
9 

10 
9 

11 
9 
3 


8  0 

0  0 

0  0 

0  0 

5  0 

5  I 

0  0 


183    2    H 
41  13    1\ 


2,231     9    3 


September  1837. 


F.  R.  CHESNEY. 


CASUALTIES  OP  THE  EUPHRATES  BXPEDITIOK. 


,^ 

k™ 

b™^. 

CotoDel,RA.      . 

F.  B.  Chomey 

30tMng.lB34 

Embarked  oo  board 
thp  ■Hogh  LiiidsBy' 
at  Basrah  for  Bom- 
bay,14lb  Not.  1836 

H.  B.  Ljnci      . 

3idNov.lS34 

Left    EipedilJon    at 
Anna  for  England, 

29th  May.  IB36. 

Mjflor,  43dL.t  . 

J.  B.  B.Eetjourt 

26th  Not  1884 

Lieuteiuuit,  R.  N. 

R.  F.  CWtoIbdcI 

l»t  Jhd.  183S 

H.  T.  Murphy 

26th  Not  1B34 

Died  at  Bonrah,  9th 
Angnat,  1838. 

H>ta,B.IT. 

Hemy  Eden      . 

leth  Dec.  183-1 

Left    Eipediuoa    at 
Anna  foe  England, 

authMay,  I83B. 

BobertCockburn 

Ist  Jkh.  1S3S 

Drowned  in  ■  Tigri».' 
'21at  May.  1836. 

M«W.  B.  N. 

a6tliOrt.l83* 

Ditto 

J.  Bt^'amw      . 

Ult  Expedition  30th 
October,   1836,   in 
chawe  of  the  In- 
dian Mails. 

AML-SuigsonB^ 

Q  F.  3ta<inioa 

Ut  Jan,  1B35 

Mr.      .        .        . 

A.  A.  8t«mit«a 

13thNoTl83i 

L»ft  tbe    Expedition 

at  HilkhforEog- 

Und.    lltb    June. 

1836. 

Mr.     .        .        . 

W.  AimwoTth 

26t]lKoTlB34 

Mr.     .        .        . 

W.  T.  Thomww 

let  OcL  1834 

Left  the   Eipedilaon 
at  Anna  for  Eng- 
Und.    aSth    May, 
1836. 

Mr.     .        .        . 

A.  Hector 

3Tth  Jon.  1835 

Left    at   Bagdad    in 
charge  of  the  ■  Eu- 
phratea'  rteamor. 

C.Rtmm 

At  Malta,  20th 
Mat.  I83S. 

Ditto        .        . 

J.  Bell       .        . 

Ditto  . 

Left  «  Aleppo. 

Dittfl       .        . 

SejdAU  .        . 

Sent        from 
Bagdad    by 
the  pKh». 

Ditto 

EnuofSadel     . 

Drowned  in  '  Tigrio," 
JOth  May.  1838. 

Ditto       .        . 

WiUiam  EUiot 

At  BIr.   20t}i 

DiBchats«l  >t  Anna, 

Sept.  18SS. 

20th  May.  1836. 

(Signed) 
September  1637. 


tionatli- 

(b«np.M 
of  Pallia-. 


J.  B.  BUCKNALL  ESTCOURT, 

Major  43rd  Light  Infantry, 

■ominand  of  the  Euphrates  Expedition. 


380 


CASUALTIES  OF  THE   KUPHBATBS  EZFBDmOH. 


APra. 

1 
i 

ieqii»l  to  luTiog 

RadofiU™  b>-  Datb.  Dl«hui..B 

IMonior 
the  Man 

, 

J 

t 

i 

I 

6 

ad 

1 

1 

j 

3 

1 

«rtlM 
EophrmtM 

•howingtU 

*e.  rabM- 

Feb.l,lSa& 

tioaatLi- 

Tnpcnl 

1 

1 

i 

i 

J 

1 

1 

1 

1 

! 

Rujal  AitiUwy: 
Non-tommw- 
Biooed  OAcm 

Boj»lS«gponiMid 

■ioDcd  Ofien* 
FriTUM.    .    . 
S<«D>eii.     .    .    . 
ffiril  ArtJfloM.: 

3 

13 

1 

I 

- 

= 

10 

1 
i 

Z( 

i 

V  i 

1 

\ 

t 

^i 

a 

1 
B 

1 

16 

3 
2 

7 

3 

6 

i 

2 

1 

3 
a 

6 

3 

8 

3 

11 

1 

n 
1 

1 

- 

- 

- 

- 

ts 

''r 

2 

3 

10 

27 

1113 

11 

3 

8 

2 

"\'r 

»; 

(Signed)        J.  B.  BUCKNALL  BSTCOUKT, 

Major  48nl  Ugfat  Infiudiy. 


L 


JOJOB-OSNESAL  ESTCOURT'S  FIRST  JOURNET.  381 


APPENDIX   III. 

JOURNEY  FROM   THE  BAY  OF  THE  ORONTES  TO 

DAMASCUS  (1885). 

BY  THE  LATE  MAJOR-GENERAL  J.  B.  B.  ESTCOURT. 

April  3. — This  day  we  reached  the  Bay  of  the  Orontes.  The     APPX 
•Columbine,'  brig-of-war,  led  the  way,  followed  by  the  trans- 


port  *  Greorge  Canning.'    It  was  a  fine  sight,  and  full  of  inte-  Arrind  on 
rest^   The  scenery  was  beautiful  and  wild :  the  pointed  moun-  of  Syria. 
tains  of  Grebel  Acra  on  our  right,  rising  abruptly  from  the  bay ;  BcautiM 
a  range  of  mountains,  extending  along  the  line  of  the  coast,  to  '^^^' 
the  west,  stretches  inland  to  the  east,  overlooks  Antioch,  and 
is  lost  in  the  plain  beyond.     Gebel  Mousa  was  on  our  left, 
forming  the  northern  point  of  the  bay :  the  mountains,  of 
which  it  is  the  principal,  fall  back  to  the  chain  of  Benglam. 
The  Valley  of  Suedia,*in  which  is  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes,  Valley  of 
is  hemmed  in  by  these  two  mountainous  ranges,  and  is  thus  ^«^- 
cut  ofif  from  the  Plain  of  Antioch. 

The  Bay  of  the  Orontes  has  been  so  little  frequented  by  Bay  of  the 
ships  that  there  were  no  instructions  to  guide  us :  the  water  was  ^^^^^^ 
extremely  deep,  the  lead  indicated  no  soundings,  yet  we  were 
already  near  the  shore.     We  stood  close  under  Gebel  Acra, 
but  could  not  find  a  satisfactory  berth;  therefore,  tacking 
about,  we  determined  to  try  the  other  side,  under  Grebel  Mousa, 
off  the  old  port  of  Seleucia.     The  uncertainty  of  where  to 
cast  our  anchor,  the  beautiful  wild  scenery  which  surrounded 
us,  and  the  sight  of  the  shore  before  us,  where  we  were  to 
land  and  begin  our  labours — all  combined  to  make  this  a 
moment  full  of  interest.     Alarmed  at  our  approach,  two  small 
vessels,  that  were  at  anchor,  immediately  got  under  weigh  ; 
one  put  to  sea,  and  the  other  ran  into  the  river.     A  flock  of  Flamin- 
flamingoes,  some  forty  in  number,  scared  from  their  tranquil-  ^^^' 
lity,  rose,  displaying  their  beautiful  plumage,  and  skimmed 
across  the  bay  to  the  other  side.     We  dropped  our  anchor  for  Come  to 
the  night  off  the  port  of  Seleucia,  in  14  fathoms,   and  *»*°«^»or- 


382 


MAJOK-OE? 


estcourt's  first  jotjktet. 


Nmtirea 
bring  p>t>- 
Tuioas. 


TheyaU 
chMtif 
they  can. 

Condition 
of  the 
natiret  on* 
der  the 
Tnrki. 


Breaker! 
on  the  bar 
of  the 
Orontes. 


Valley  of 
Saedia,  ex- 
tent of. 


Its  soil 
and  pro- 
ductions. 


gave  three  cheers  from  both  ships :  our  berth  was  not  shel- 
tered, but  it  had  become  too  late  to  search  for  a  better. 
Colonel  Chesney  and  a  party  tried  to  land,  but  before  we 
reached  the  shore  it  was  dark.  We  could  hear  the  waves 
breaking  on  the  beach,  and  just  see  their  white  heads  close 
before  us,  but  could  not  find  a  place  for  landing :  we  there- 
fore rowed  back  to  the  ships,  to  wait  for  day. 

April  4. — In  the  morning  two  natives  were  brought  off  to 
us  by  one  of  our  boats,  which  had  landed.  The  object  of 
their  visit  w<is  to  offer  us  assistance  in  anything  we  migbt 
want,  and  we  accordingly  employed  them  in  getting  ns  pro- 
visions. During  the  time  that  we  remained  at  Suedia,  one  of 
them,  who  was  the  chief  man  of  the  neighbourhood,  pro?ed 
useAil  to  us,  but  cheated  us  with  national  avidity.  Thej 
were  both  Christians  (Greeks),  who  are  much  despised  by  the 
Turks,  and  subjected  to  continual  indignities  and  exactions. 
Such  oppression  has  not  f&iled  to  degrade  their  moral  condi- 
tion ;  they  are  cunning  and  rapacious. 

After  the  visit  of  the  strangers  was  over,  we  took  them 
ashore.  It  was  not  easy  to  land,  for  on  the  bar  at  the  moutb 
of  the  Orontes,  the  waves  were  breaking,  which  alarmed  them 
very  much.  Our  after-experience  proved  the  entrance  to  the 
river  to  be  very  uncertain  and  dangerous.  With  a  wind 
blowing  into  the  bay,  the  sea  breaks  upon  the  bar  and  upon 
the  whole  shore,  so  as  to  render  it  impossible,  at  times,  to 
approach  with  safety. 

The  Valley  of  Suedia  may  be  about  five  miles  along  the  sea- 
line,  and  runs  back  about  four  miles ;  right  and  left,  as  has 
been  described,  are  the  mountains  connected  with  (rebel 
Mousa  to  the  north,  and  Gebel  Acra*  to  the  south.  The 
Orontes,  issuing  through  a  narrow  pass,  flows  by  a  very  winding 
course  along  the  southern  side.  The  soil  is  rich  and  well 
cultivated ;  it  produces  com  of  every  sort,  and  is  thickly 
planted  with  mulberry-trees  for  the  silkworms,  which  are 
reared  in  great  numbers.  The  grapes,  too,  are  very  fine.  Mr. 
Barker,  formerly  Consul-General  for  Great  Britain  in  Egypt, 
has  a  house  and  large  property  here,  to  which  he  retires  from 
Aleppo  during  the  severe  heats  of  summer.     The  village  of 

*  Acra  means  bald ;  the  top  of  the  mountain  ia  pointed,  and  loolu  quite 
bald. 


IfAJOB-GENEBAL  ESTCOURT'S  FIBST  JOUBNET.  383 

Suedia  is  scattered  upon  the  side  of  the  hills  at  the  farther     APPX. 
end  of  the  valley  :  the  houses  are  mostly  of  mud  ;  the  roofs  ^      .      - 
are  slightly  sloping;  they  have  projecting  eaves,  and  are  Village  of 
rather  picturesque.     The  inhabitants  are  all  Christians.  "    ^ 

Undjer  Gebel  Mousa,  just  at  the  extremity  of  the  bay,  towards 
the  north  side,  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  city  of  Seleucia :  Ancient 
there  are  still  some  walls  in  existence ;  bricks  and  pottery  are  «tv  of 
scattered  about,  and  in  the  face  of  the  rock  there  are  many 
tombs  hollowed  after  the  manner  of  those  described  at  Petra.  xombs. 
The  old  port  is  still  quite  distinct,  and  might  be  again  used  nr.     , . 
at  no  very  great  expense :  it  consisted  of  a  large  basin  situated  port. 
dose  under  the  rock,  having  an  entrance  through  gates  from 
the  sea ;  the  entrance  is  filled  up,  but  the  piers  for  the  gates 
remain,  also  part  of  the  mole,  and  the  wall  round  the  basin ; 
water  still  runs  in  and  out  of  it  through  the  sluice-drain ;  the 
bottom  is  muddy,  and  overgrown  with  reeds  and  long  flags. 
Just  above — ^but  for  what  purpose  has  never  yet  been,  I  think, 
satisfactorily  explained — is  a  long  excavation  through  the  hill ;  Hollow 
it  communicates  with  a  little  hollow  valley  beyond,  and  either  ^*y- 
brought  water  to  form  a  constant  outward  current,  that  the 
entrance  to  the  port  might  be  kept  clear,  or  simply  was 
a  communication  from  one  part  of  the  town  to  the  other, 
to  avoid  passing  over  the  steep  and  high  hill  above.     Look- 
ing round,  you  see  the  Valley  of  Suedia,  a  quiet  and  retired  '^Jg^!^*^ 
space,  open  to  the  refreshing  breezes  from  the  sea,  and  shut 
in  from  all  the  world  besides — rich  in  its  own  productions, 
cultivated  as  well  as  wild,  and  highly  favoured  by  its  healthy 
climate. 

Our  first  object  was  to  explore  the  Orontes :  its  appear-  Explora- 
ance  at  the  mouth  was  not  favourable  to  navigation  :  the  bar  j^y^^ 
seemed  a  serious  impediment,  yet  not  at  all  times,  for  we  Oroutes. 
found  a  vessel  of  from  20  to  30  tons  lying  within ;  it  was 
that  which  had  run  in  through  fear  of  us.     We  afterwards 
remarked  that  the  bar  is  loos^  and  shifting,  nor  did  it  seem  Bar  at  the 
that  there  would  be  much  diflBculty  in  constructing  a  pier,  ^g^riveif 
which  should  carry  the  waters  of  the  river  into  the  sea,  so  as  Project  fop 
to  keep  the  entrance  deep.     The  current  runs  at  the  rate  of  Y^P^ng  it 
3^  knots  an  hour.     The  course,  after  the  river  comes  into 
the  plain,  is  exceedingly  tortuous :  just  above,  at  the  pass  of  Course  of 
the  mountains,  it  rushes  with  violence  over  a  rocky  bcKl,  and  oiontcs. 


884 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT's  FIRCT  JOURITET. 


APPX. 

III. 

N— — . ' 

Eanminft- 
tion  of  the 
road  to 
Antioch 
and  on- 


Tvsuph 

8aWi 

home. 


RsTeDOus 
fleu. 


Kara-Chai 
riren. 


Antiuch. 


The  an- 
cient walls. 


Oeoif*e 
Pibbi. 


could  never  there  be  navigated  except  by  constmcting  locb 
to  raise  the  level. 

April  5. — ^To-day  LieutcDant  Murphy,  Dr.  Staunton,  and 
myself  were  sent  by  Colonel  Chesney  to  Antioch  to  examine  the 
country  over  which  our  road  was  to  pass,  and  the  bridges  of 
Antioch  and  Djezzer  Hadid ;  but  the  heavy  rains  of  the  morning 
and  night  had  swelled  the  rivers  into  violent  torrents,  and 
obliged  us  to  seek  shelter  in  the  house  of  Yusuph  Saba,  our 
visitor  on  board  the  ship.  This  was  our  first  specimen  of  a 
house  in  the  country :  we  were  received  with  great  hospitality, 
and  shown  into  a  room  furnished  round  the  walls  with  cushions 
to  lean  against  and  mattrasses  to  sit  upon :  a  fire  of  charooil 
was  brought  in  a  large  metal  chafing-dish — also  pipes,  sherbet, 
and  a  good  supper.  After  all  this  luxury,  however,  came  a 
night  of  torment,  for  we  were  not  yet  hardened  to  the  attacb 
of  the  ravenous  fleas,  which  seemed  to  have  a  greedy  thint 
for  European  blood.  Next  morning  we  set  forward  again: 
part  of  the  road  was  stony,  hilly,  and  bad ;  in  fEict,  it  was  at 
best  but  a  mere  horse-track.  We  crossed  the  two  Kara-Cbai 
rivers,  which  dwindle  into  streams  in  dry  weather,  but  swell 
again  into  torrents  in  a  single  night  of  rain.  They  come 
down  from  the  mountains  of  Beilan,  and  run  into  the  Orontes. 

After  a  ride  of  about  four  hours  we  approached  Antioch :  it 
looked  exceedingly  beautiful — its  situation,  its  minarehs,  the 
purple  rocky  mountains  above  it,  and  all  the  country  round. 
It  is  placed  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Orontes,  which  runs 
rapidly  past  it,  turning  mills  and  large  irrigating  wheels  as 
it  flows :  the  town  occupies  all  the  space,  to  the  foot  of  the 
heights  behind  :  the  ancient  walls  are  not  only  in  existence, 
but  in  excellent  condition,  though  Ibrahim  Pacha,  in  order  to 
furnish  materials  for  an  extensive  barrack,  was,  with  relent- 
less barbarity,  in  full  operation  of  blowing  them  up  :  they  are 
of  hewn  stone,  and  built  with  great  exactness,  having  square 
towers  at  regular  distances.  Leaving  the  river  on  one  side, 
they  run  back  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  along  the  ridge  of 
it,  and  again  descend  to  the  river's  bank,  enclosing  an  oblong 
of  about  two  miles,  part  of  which  is  occupied  by  the  town,  and 
part  by  gardens. 

Over  the  river  is  a  stone  bridge  with  a  gatehouse;  by 
it  we  entered  the  town  preceded  by  George  Dibbs,  a  bospi- 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  385 

table  old  man,  well  known  to  every  European  traveller  who     APPX. 
has  passed  through  Antioch.      Though  not  Consul,  he  has   .  _  ^J^'  _ . 
acted  the  part  of  Government  agent,  has  been  styled  Consul, 
and  is  proud  to  be  considered  the  person  of  reference  for  all  Character 
Europeans :  in  that  capacity  he  has  rendered  kind  and  valuable  jJjS^'^^ 
«ervice  to  many  by  receiving  them  into  his  house,  and  helping 
them  on  their  journey.     We  knew  nothing  of  George  Dibbs; 
but  our  guides,  the  owners  of  our  horses,  sent  one  of  their 
party  forward  to  acquaint  him,  according  to  custom,  of  the 
approach  of  Europeans;  in   consequence,   notice  was  soon 
brought  that  he  would  come  out  to  meet  us,  and  requesting 
that  we  should  wait  outside  the  town.    But  any  parade  about 
our  entrance  into  Antioch  seemed  quite  out  of  place :  we  were 
mounted  on  little  thin  starved  ponies,  rough  and  shaggy,  with  our  poor 
packsaddles,  rope-halters,  and  loops  of  rope  for  stirrups,  all  liorsesand 
in  the  worst  condition :  they  had  answered  our  purpose  to  equipment. 
bring  us  from  Suedia  to  Antioch,  but  it  was  too  absurd  to 
make  a  parade  of  our  arrival  in  such  sorry  style. 

George  Dibbs  soon  met  us,  though  we  did  not  wait  for  Reception 
him  ;  he  was  a  great  fat  man  on  a  white  horse,  folded  in  loose  *''^**<^'*- 
clothes,  and  looking  exceedingly  like  an  old  woman.     With 
him  came  his  dragoman,  having  on  his  head  the  orthodox 
high  fur  cap;  also  Monsieur  Dalgon,  an  old  militaire  of 
Napoleon,  who  had  entered  the  service  of  the  Pacha  of  Egypt, 
like  many  others,  after  the  war,  as  instructor  to  one  of  the 
regiments..    Preceded  by  these,  who  rode  singly  in  regular 
order,  we  were  conducted  to  George  Dibbs's  house,  and  there  ArnVe  at 
introduced   to  the  divan  by  a  young  Pole,  dressed  in  the  ^^^ 
Egyptian  costume,  who  turned  out  to  be  an  emigri  from  the 
land  of  his  fathers,  and  of  those  unhappy  people  whom  Eng- 
lishmen often  meet  to  remind  them  of  the  cruelty  of  Russia 
and  the  broken  faith  of  their  own  Government.     He  was  a 
gentleman  of  excellent  address  and  attainments,  and  became 
afterwards  a  friend  and  companion  of  us  all. 

The  hospitality  and  importance  of  George  Dibbs,  as  weU  as  gj^  hosDi- 
the  consideration  to  his  guests,  required  tliat  nothing  should  t^litj. 
be  wanting  in  sherbet,  pipes,  coffee,  and  so  forth,  nor  that 
they  should  be  served  in  any  other  than  the  most  approved 
fashion.      The  ceremonies  attending  these  matters  are  far 
from  being  unimportant  to  a  Turk,  nor  are  they  by  any 

c  c 


386 


MAJOK-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S   PIR&T  JOURNEY. 


APPX. 
III. 


Tlie  Pacha 

withdraws 

his 

promised 

assistance. 


Intrigues 
of  other 
Powers. 


Deceit  of 
Eastern 
Govern- 
ments. 


Orders  to 
the  Go- 
vernor of 
Antioch. 


means  disagreable  to  a  European.  Conversation  was  carried 
on  in  bad  Italian,  or  through  the  Pole  in  French.  We  spoke 
of  course  of  the  Expedition,  and  expected  to  find  that,  as  the 
Pacha  (Mehemet  Ali)  had  engaged  to  the  British  Government 
to  lend  us  every  assistance,  all  would  be  prepared  to  lool 
favourably  on  us,  and  feel  interested  in  our  progress ;  but  U 
our  surprise  we  learnt  from  George  Dibbs  that  the  promiM 
given  by  the  Pacha  had  been  withdrawn. 

His  engagement  was  to  assist  the  Expedition  by  all  th( 
means  in  his  power;  it  had  been  entered  into  by  forma 
diplomatic  communications  from  the  British  Govemmen 
with  Mehemet  Ali,  through  Colonel  Campbell,  the  Consul 
General  in  Egypt  The  Pacha  was  to  provide  'arabas'o 
waggons  of  the  country,  camels,  and  animals,  and  to  maketb 
road  from  Suedia  to  Aleppo,  besides  furnishing  the  peopl 
who  might  be  required :  and  persons  in  authority,  from  tb 
highest  to  the  lowest,  were  to  aid  and  assist.  But  intrigue 
from  a  quarter  which  looks  with  cupidity  upon  our  posses 
sions  in  the  East,  and  would  wish  to  thwart  any  project  fo 
rendering  them  more  valuable,  or  adding  security  in  them  t 
us,  had  succeeded  in  working  on  the  suspicions  of  the  Pacha 
and  in  creating  alarm  that  our  enterprise  was  not  for  th 
mere  conveyance  of  letters  and  passengers  between  India  am 
England  ;  such  an  object  alone  could  not,  they  argued,  be  o 
such  great  importance  as  to  encourage  all  this  expense  am 
hazard. 

There  is  so  much  deceit  in  the  system  of  Eastern  govern 
ment,  that  the  Pacha  was  easily  led  to  believe  there  might  b 
bad  faith  on  the  part  of  England.  At  all  events,  it  was  safe 
to  stand  still  than  to  move — to  allow  nothing  to  be  done  thai 
to  have  to  undo  by-and-by.  These  were  reasons  of  grea 
weight  with  an  Eastern,  and  had  they  been  consider^  6< 
early  as  to  discourage  the  British  Government  from  the  enter 
prise,  might  have  been  home  without  complaint ;  but  now  ii 
was  too  late.  To  allow  the  Expedition  to  be  fitted  out  and  t( 
appear  upon  the  coast,  ready  to  begin  to  work,  and  then  U 
shut  the  door  against  it,  was  an  insult  to  England.  Th< 
Mutsellim,  or  Governor  of  Antioch,  had  received  orders  nol 
to  permit  us  to  land. 

Amongst  other  things,  we  had  been  directed   by  Colonel 


MAJOR-GENERAL   ESTCOURT'S   FIRST  JOURNEY.  387 

Chesney  to  examine  Djezzer  Hadid,  or  the  Bridge  of  Laon,     APPX. 
over   the  Orontes,  about   two   hours    above   Antioch.     We   ._    / ,. 
therefore  rode  to  it  with  our  new  friend  the  Pole.     It  turned  5'**f?^I'^ 

Hadid. 

out  to  be  built  of  stone,  with  a  gatehouse  on  the  left  bank. 
The  arches  were  too  low  to  admit  of  boats  of  any  size  passing 
through  them,  though  they  were  larger  than  those  of  the 
bridge  at  Antioch. 

Eeturning  to  Antioch,  a  jackal  followed  us  from  the  Gate  Return  to 
of  St.  Paul  for  half  a  mile :  it  was  dark,  and  on  approaching  Antioch. 
close  to  the  town  we  saw  a  beautiful  illumination  at  the  tops 
of  the  minarets,  to  celebrate  the  eve  of  the  new  year. 

April  8. — This  was  New  Year's  Day  with  the  Mahom-  New  year's 
medans.  As  the  First  of  January  is  with  us,  it  is  a  day  of  con-  ^\^^  ^^^ 

•^  7  J  Mahomme- 

gratulation  and  good  wishes  for  the  coming  year :  everyone  dans. 
dresses  in  his  best  clothes :  the  day  is  passed  in  payins:  and  in  ^^^^"^ 

i  r  J     &  custom^, 

receiving  visits.  The  streets  are  alive  with  people  passing  and  dress,  &c. 
crossing,  all  in  fresh,  bright,  gay  clothes ;  the  rich  accompanied 
by  a  due  proportion  of  servants — the  pipe-bearer,  secretary, 
grooms,  and  attendants,  carrying  sticks  of  silver  with  hand- 
some large  knobs,  and,  as  a  friend  of  mine  excellently  well  de- 
scribed it  to  me,  *  their  bellies  full  of  pistols.'  At  the  visits  the 
conversation  consists  of  compliments,  and  wishes  (expressed  in 
various  terms)  for  health,  happiness,  and  prosperity.    Sherbet, 
pipes,  and  coflFee  are  served  after  the  most  approved  fashion, 
and  with  the  more  attention  from  the  servants  that  they  re- 
ceive, as  a  prescriptive  right  on  that  day,  a  present  as  the 
visitor  leaves  the  house.  During  our  visit  to  Ibrahim  Pacha's  visit  to  tho 
chief  secretary,   he  received  a  bundle  of  letters,  which  he  Pacha's 
opened  and  read  whilst  we  were  with  him,  a  practice  not  the  ^^^'^^^^'y- 
least  uncivil  amongst  the  Turks ;  on  the  contrary,  they  court 
the  interniption,  because  the  receipt  of  letters  betokens  busi- 
ness and  importance.     After   duly  reading  his  letters,  the 
secretary  announced  that  his  Highness  Ibrahim  Pacha  had 
left  Cairo  to  return  to  Antioch,  a  piece  of  news  which  was 
carried  without  loss  of  time  all  over  the  town. 

In  the  evening  we  were  joined  by  some  of  our  party,  who  Unfavonr- 
had  come  up  the  banks  of  the  Orontes  to  examine  it ;  but  »^l®  report 
they  did  not  report  favourably  of  it.     In  many  places  it  Orontes. 
rushes  violently  over  a  rocky  bed,  and  in  others  it  is  crossed 
by  dams  for  mills  constructed  at  the  sides.     The  scenery, 

c  c  2 


388  MAJOR-OEXERAL   ESTCOURT'S   FIRST  JOURXEY. 

ATTX.     liowever,  is  beautiful,  through  high  impending  rocks,  and 
^^    ,  •_    liills  covered  with  trees  ;  or  through  cultivated  valleys,  with 

vines,  fruit-trees,  and  corn.  . 

H»tinn  to         On  the  following  day  we  returned  to  Suedia.     Colonel 

*  "    **•        Chesney  had  learnt  the  prohibition  of  the  Pacha,  but,  thinking 

it  a  shameful  want  of  faith  to  the  British  Government,  be 

determined  to  act  upon  the  first  engagement,  to  execute  tb<» 

Colonel       directions  he  had  received;  to  land,  and  to  use  every  effort  to 

rheunr^  s    ^^  fon^'a^d  with  the  Expedition,  unless  compelled  to  desist 

tioiitolAnd  by  force.     He  had,  in  fact,  already  begun  the  disembarkation ; 

dition*^      everyone  was  busy  in  landing  our  stores  as  quickly  as  possible; 

many  things  were  ashore,  and  we  had  already  suffered  a  loss, 

which  was  likely  to  have  been  of  the  greatest  consequence. 

Ixws  of       A  small  keg  of  valuable  materials  for  the  engines  (valves, 

engine  ^  ^   screws,  nuts,  and  suchlike)  had  fallen  into  the  water — dropped, 

in  the         as  it  was  being  landed,  close  to  the  bank,  but  in  deep  water. 

vuu  of*  ^pi'il  9« — The  Governor  of  Antioch  presented  himself  this 

thpQover-   morning  at  oiur  little  encampment,  to  visit  Colonel  Chesney, 

Antioch       ^^^  receivttl  him  on   board  the  *  Columbine':  a  salute  was 

fired  for  him  as  he  stepped  over  the  quarter-deck. 
Hisolijert        It  soon  appeared  that  his  object  was  to  prevent  the  dis- 
the  d^M^m-   ^"^Iw^rkation  of  the  Expedition,  which,  however,  had  slready 
barkaiiou.    made  considerable  progress.     Much  conversation  took  place, 
after  which  it  was  agreed  that  Colonel  Chesney  should  give 
him  a  paper  declaring  himself  responsible  for  the  conse- 
quences of  landing,  but  demanding  formally  from  the  go- 
vernor the  as>istance  promised,  and  ordered  in  the  first  place, 
by  Mehemet  Ali. 
I>«»ti»rniin-        jij^  impossibility  of  advancing  beyond  our  encampment 
tiiHCum-      determined  Colonel  Chesney  to  send  me  to  Damascus,  in 
nmntlor  to    order  to  reuioustrate  strongly  with  Sheriff  Pacha — who,  in  the 
absence  of  Ibrahim,  was  charged  with  the  government  of 
Syria — and  to  make  a  demand  for  a  fulfilment  of  all  the 
assistance  agreed  upon   by  Mehemet  Ali.     We  possessed  a 
copy  in  detail  of  the  different  points  engaged  for. 
Set.  out  I  set  off  immediately  after  the  visit  of  the  Mutsellim,  ac- 

stauntoii  compauied  by  Dr.  Staunton,  and  took  up  my  quarters  at 
for  llamas-  Antioch  ;«gain  with  our  hospitable  old  friend  George  Dibbs. 
^"'**  An  application  was  made  for  horses  for  our  journey,  and  a 

cowjiss,  who  is  a  sort  of  gen<larme,  or  armed  servant  of  the 


MAJOR-GEXERAL   ESTCOURT's   FIRST  JOURNEY.  389 

Government.     Several  cowasses  are  attached  to  people  in  APPX. 

authority,  in  number  depending  upon  their  rank  or  wealth.  ^^ ^* , 

They  lounge  about  in  tlie  yards  and  outer  rooms,  eat,  drink,  ^'Owasses, 

and  are  insolent :  they  inflict  summary  punishment  upon  all  pioyment, 

who  attempt  to  interfere  with  their  wants  and  wishes.     A  ^e^.and 
word  and  a  blow  is  exactly  their  system ;  they  swagger,  and 
swell  their  master's  dignity  for  the  sake  of  their  own.     They 
are  employed  in  extorting  money,  and  in  all  the  exactions  of 
government,  in  which  service  they  do  not  forget  themselves. 

We  had  great  difficulty  in  procuring  either  horses  or  the  Difficulty 

cowass;  for,  after  the  order  prohibiting  the  Expedition,  the  5.„^^" 

authorities  were  afraid  to  allow  us  even  the  accommoda-  aninmls. 

tion  usually  accorded  to  travellers.     After  the  delay  of  half  Leave 

Aiitiocii 

a  day  we  got  oflF,  and  immediately  began  to  creep  up  the 
mountain  at  the  back  of  Antioch  by  a  steep  and  stony  track. 
This  ascent,  though  the  most  severe,  as  rising  from  the  level  Ascend  a, 
of  the  plain,  was  only  the  first  of  a  succession  of  heights,  till  sjccession 
we   had   crossed   the   mountainous   district   connected  with 
Gebel  Acra  and  the  range  of  I^ebanon. 

In  about  four  hours  we  came  to  the  village  of  Soria,  where  Village  of 
the  cowass  had  had  directions  from  George  Dibbs  to  procure 
a  lodging  for  the  night.     Soria  is  a  Christian  village ;  the 
houses,  like  those  of  Suedia,  are  of  mud,  but  the  roofs  are  I^^^c^ip- 

.  '  tion  of 

not  in  the  same  picturesque  style ;  they  are  flat.     We  rode  village. 
up  to  a  house,  conducted  by  the  cowass;  no  question  was 
asked  about  the  possibility  of  receiving  us ;  it  was  a  matter 
of  course  that  what  there  was  we  could  have,  and  whether 
we  were  welcome  or  otherwise  seemed  of  no  consequence : 
nor  is  it  so  at  any  time,  either  amongst  the  Turks  in  the 
towns,  or  the  Arabs  in  the  desert.     The  stranger  rides  to  the 
Sheikh's  house,  whose  duty  it  is  to  receive  all  travellers,  lodge 
tbem,  and  feed  them ;  he  there  dismounts,  and  not  only  de-  ^ayo?*^ 
pends  upon  being  well  treated,  but  frequently  gives  himself  receiving 
airs  about  the  fare,  and  thinks  it  not  unbecoming  to  treat  his     ^^S^"- 
host  with  contempt,  and  abuse  his  best  efforts  to  please. 

Most  houses  have  one  room  set  apart  for  strangers;  in  Accommo- 
that  of  the  Sheikh  it  is  always  so ;  and  in  the  tent  of  the  ^moncat 
Arab  a  partition  is  carried  across,  to  divide  one  portion  from  the  Arabs. 
the  other — one  being  open  to  anyone,  and  the  other  being 
the  sanctum  of  the  family.     In  this  instance  it  was  no  great 


390  MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 

AlTX.     matter  to  have  such  a  room  reserved  as  that  into  which  we 

* ^ — .    were  shown;  it  was  up  a  few  broken  steps,  through  a  low 

door,  into  a  dark  room  without  a  window — the  walls  nideh 
built  of  mud  without  whitewash.     A  few  holes  served  the 
purpose  of  shelves,  a  few  sticks  thrust  into  the  mud  did 
for   pegs;   the   floor   was   uneven,  and  also  of  mud.    The 
first  operation  was  to  clean  out  the  place  (for  it  was  very 
dirty),  to  spread  our  rugs  (for  everyone  travels  with  his  own), 
o?t^h?"Mo-  ^°^  ^  deposit  our  arms  and  baggage.  We  then  strolled  aboat 
l>lr,  &c       till  supper  was  ready :  this  was  spread  upon  a  round  flat  mat, 
about  three  feet  in  diameter,  to  which  we  sat  crosslegged: 
as  yet  we  were  at  a  loss  without  knives  and  forks,  for  we  had 
not  loamt  the  method  of  using  bread,  which,  being  in  flat 
cakes,  is  made  to  help  the  fingers  in  drawing  a  mouthful  to 
Mrtliwl  of    the  side  of  the  dish,  from  whence  it  is  safely  carried  to  the 
^*  *"*>*        mouth ;  this  is  managed  with  some  dexterity,  and  is  not  then 
so  very  disagreeable.   After  supper,  pipes,  and  coffee,  we  laid 
ourselves  on  our  rugs  and  slept. 
Desorip-  Next   morning  (April    11)   we  arose  and   continued  oar 

countiy.      journey ;  the  road  was  hilly,  and  the  country  uninteresting. 
In  nine  hours,  after  traversing  a  plain,  we  arrived  at  the 
edge  of  a  steep  hill,  overlooking  Djenzer  Schogger,  which  we 
saw  directly  below  us ;  the  descent  was  by  a  zigzag  paved 
road  cut  into  broad  and  regular  steps,     A  long  line  of  camels 
was  climbing  up  at  a  slow  and  stately  pace,  adding  very  mudi 
Town  of      to  the  picturesque  effect*     The  town  is  on  the  left  bank  of 
s5h***^.      the  Orontes,  over  which  there  is  a  stone  bridge ;  the  river  is 
rapid,  clear,  and  full ;  on  the  other  side  a  valley  spreads  itself 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  rich  with  the  finest  pasture.    The 
town  we  found  poor  and  dilapidated,  having  suffered  latelj 
from  an  attack  of  the  mountaineers,  the  Druses,  whose  sub- 
mission to  the  Egyptian  Government  had  not  at  that  time 
been  effected.    Ruined  as  it  looked  from  the  hill,  it  was  more 
wretched  still  upon  a  nearer  approach ;  most  of  the  houses 
were  pulled  dowu,  nor  did  it  seem  possible  to  find  one  that 
Difficulty     would  servc  us  for  a  lodging ;  but  afler  passing  through  the 
jngotHng    nibbish  for  a  short  distance,  our  cowass  brought  us  to  the 
iDg«.°*^      house  of  a  man  whom  he  directed  to  lodge  and  feed  us  for 
the  night.     This  man  had  no  fancy  for  the  tax,  and  did  not 
pretend  to  esteem  it   an  honour ;  but  his  growlings  were 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  391 

silenced  by  the  cowass,  who  would  have  exacted  hospitality     APPX, 
with  a  stick,  rather  than  forego  any  attention  or  good  fare  he  '    . 


thought  the  man  could  afford — or  rather  that  he  thought  us, 
including  himself,  entitled  to. 

April  12. — This  morning  we   crossed   the  river  by  the  Cposs  the 
bridge,  and  entered  the  valley.     We  rode  close  under  a  line  "ridged  * 
of  hills  on  our  left  hand,  having  the  full   breadth  of  the 
valley  on  our  right,  through  the  middle  of  which   ran  the 
Orontes,  and  beyond  were  the  beautiful  mountains  of  Anti- 
Xibanus.     Before  us  were  picketed  the  artillery  horses  of  the  Encamp- 
Syrian  army ;  they  reached  as  far  as  we  could  see :  in  a  ride  ^rian  ^ 
of  five  hours  we  had  not  entirely  passed  them.     Every  horse  army. 
was  picketed  by  a  fore  and  a  hind  leg,  leaving  his  head  at  ^^^  p^ 

DicketinflT 

liberty ;  this  is  the  constant  practice  all  over  Syria,  and  I  {Jieip 
believe  it  to  be  a  veiy  secure  method,  especially  when  at  pas-  ^onea. 
ture.     The  animals  looked  exceedingly  well,  neighing  and 
arching  their  necks,  in  the  animated  style  of  the  Arab ;  they 
were  fine  specimens  of  the  breed,  for  the  Pacha  gives  larger 
prices  for  horses  for  his  army  than  are  commonly  given  in 
the  country ;  even  three  purses,  or  3,000  piastres  (about  30^.  30/.  the 
of  our  money),  is  not  an  unusual  price ;  whereas  a  purse  and  a  i^ual  pnce 
half  or  two  purses  (from  1 51.  to  20L)  is  the  cost  of  a  good  horse,  for  the 
tbough  some  mares  fetch  even  as  much  as  thirty  purses  (SOOi.)  ;*  ^^^' 
but  then  they  must  have  an  undoubted  pedigree  from  one  of 
the  five  mares  of  Mahomet,  possess  all  the  marks  of  excellence, 
speed,  and  good  luck,  have  been  taught  to  wheel  and  halt 
when  at  full  gallop,  have  a  broad  chest,  a  fine  spirit,  a  hand- 
some carriage,  and  a  gentle  temper.     The  Arabs  know  no-  j^^y^ 
thing  of  the  anatomy  of  a  horse,  but  they  have  methods  of  knowledge 
measurement  which  no  doubt  afford  them,  though  they  do 
not  know  why,  very  sure  guides  for  ascertaining  good  propor- 
tions ;  thus,  from  exactly  between  the  hip-bones  on  the  back 
measured  over  the  tail,  and  down  to  the  ground  under  the 
heels,  should  be  equal  to  the  distance  from  the  same  point 
between  the  hip-bones  over  the  neck  and  down  to  the  nose. 

Upon  leaving  Djezzer  Schogger,  we   had  meant  to  have  Leave 
breakfasted   at  any   encampment   of  Turcomans  we   might  Aiezz«r 
chance  to  see ;  and  as  the  morning  advanced,  and  our  appe- 

«  This  exorbitant  price  is  asked  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  a  sale,  as  an 
Arab  is  considered  to  be  an  inheritance  in  the  tribe. 


392 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  HROT  JOURXEY. 


Mound  likA 
the  tamuli 
in  Salis- 
bury riain. 


Invitation 
to  tlie 
General's 
tent. 


Entertain- 
ment with 
the  Syrian 
general. 


Ceremony 

before 

meals. 


tites  grew  more  importunate,  we  anxiously  looked  about  for 
the  black  tents  of  those  hospitable  people,  but  in  vain.  At 
length  we  were  passing  near  a  high  mound,  which  stood  like 
one  of  the  tumuli  on  Salisbury  Plain,  but  very  much  larger; 
we  saw  on  the  top  tents  larger  and  of  more  importance  than 
those  in  the  plain,  and  several  persons  collected  about  them; 
a  soldier  from  the  party  coming  to  meet  us,  saluted  and  in- 
vited us  in  the  name  of  the  General  to  rest  in  his  tent,  and  to 
breakfast  with  him.  We  were  too  hungry  and  too  curious  of 
the  manners  of  the  country  to  refuse :  we  therefore  followed 
the  soldier,  and  entering  a  large  round  tent,  lined  with  yellow, 
we  found  ourselves  before  the  General,  who  sat  with  a  full 
view  of  all  the  horses  belonging  to  his  command  :  his  baggage 
was  piled  neatly  behind  him ;  carpets  and  cushions  were 
spread  on  each  side  of  him ;  and  his  servants  stood  with  their 
hands  before  them,  awaiting  his  orders.  As  we  approached, 
he  arose,  and  invited  us  to  sit  near  him  ;  pipes,  sherbet,  and 
coffee  were  introduced ;  he  asked  many  questions  about  the 
Expedition,  of  which  he  had  heard,  and  was  exceedingly 
affable  and  polite.  He  was  a  thin  gentlemanlike  man,  of 
good  manners,  dressed  in  the  plain  costume  of  the  Egyptians, 
which  consists  of  a  jacket,  waistcoat,  large  trousers,  and  i 
silk  white-and-striped  sash.  Like  the  upper  ranks  in  the 
service,  he  wore  black,  with  the  decoration  of  his  grade  on  his 
left  breast :  it  consisted  of  a  crescent  set  in  diamonds.  The 
Egyptians  diflfer  from  the  Turks  in  the  taste  for  hrght 
colours.  The  most  correct  colour  is  black :  Ibrahim  Pachi 
either  wears  black  or  blue,  and  the  superior  officers  follow 
the  example.  There  is  no  particular  uniform  ;  provided  the 
dress  is  of  the  right  cut,  it  matters  not  of  what  colour  it  may  he. 
After  talking  and  smoking  for  some  time,  a  basin,  with  a 
small  stand  in  the  middle  of  it  for  soap,  was  brought  round 
to  each  of  us  in  turn,  but  to  our  host  first ;  an  embroidered 
towel  hung  over  the  shoulders  of  the  servant,  who  poured 
water  over  our  fingers  from  a  vessel  which  he  carried  in  his 
right  hand.  After  this  preparation  a  small  stool  was  placed 
before  us,  and  upon  that  a  large  metal  salver ;  bread  was 
laid  round  it,  and  we  were  invited  to  seat  ourselves  before  it. 
Each  dish  was  brought  singly  and  placed  in  the  middle:  w« 
were  expected  to  pailake  of  each  in  its  turn  :  our  host  gnvt 


MAJOR-GEyEBAL  ESTCOURT'S   FIRST   JOURNKY.  393 

the  signal  when  to   remove  one  and  bring  the  next.     He      APPX. 
apologised  for  the  scantiness  of  the  fare  by  saying  he  was     _    /    ^ 
tiving  in  camp,  but  there  were  notwithstanding  five  or  six  ^"f^y® 
dishes,  all  very  good,  and  well  cooked  :  the  last,  according  to 
an  invariable  rule,  was  a  plain  pilau,  which  being  discussed, 
we  fell  back  to  our  places,  washed  our  hands,  in  the  same 
manner  as  before,  smoked,  and    sipped  our  thimbleful    of 
coffee.     After  more  conversation,  we  thanked   the  General  Take  leave 
for  his  hospitality  and  rode  on,  very  much  pleased  to  have  General. 
seen  so  good  a  specimen  of  life  as  it  is  conducted  amongst 
fhe  upper  ranks. 

We  soon  passed  beyond  the  long-stretching  encampment 
of  the  artillery;   but  the  same  plain    continued,  with   the 
same  abundance  of  herbage,  a  beautiful  tract  for  feeding  the 
boTses  of  the  cavalry,  which  for  the  three  spring  months  of  Mounds  at 
vegetation  receive  no  rations.     We  observed  to-day  several  intervals 
of  the  mounds,  on  the  top  of  one  of  which  the  General  had  miles. 
fixed  his  tent:  they  seemed  placed  at  regular  intervals  of 
about  three  miles,  and  between  each  was  a  stone,  about  five 
feet  high,  on  the  line  of  the  road  :  the  mounds  were  circular, 
and  might  be  about  forty  feet  high :  the  stones  apparently  The  road 
were  to  mark  the  distances.     As  we  approached  Kalat  Medyk,  Medyk,  a 
we  found  that  we  were  riding  on  a  regular  chaussee ;  for  poormiser- 
here  it  was  sufficiently  perfect  to  indicate  exactly  that  it  was  lage. 
one  of  the  roads  in  the  ancient  days  of  the  country,  when 
Kalat  Medyk  was  Apamea,  and  flourished  with  handsome 
buildings,  pathways,  and  amphitheatres. 

Kalat  Medyk  now  is  a  miserable  village,  but  has  an  impos-  situation 
ing  appearance ;  it  is  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  overlook-  of  Kalat 
ing  the  valley  of  the  Orontes,  and  surrounded  by  a  good  wall        ^ 
of  cut-stone :  the  approach  is  by  a  steep  paved  ascent,  cut  Deacrip- 
diagonally  up  the  hill,  and  entered  by  a  gatehouse.     Outside  ^i^n  of  the 
the  walls,  which  probably  enclosed  the  castle,  as  it  is  called  to  j^^nj^jng^f 
this  day  (*  kalat'  meaning  castle),  we  found  remains  in  cut-  cut-stone. 
stone  of  a  place  of  considerable  size,  situated  on  the  hill,  but 
not  so  elevated  as  the  castle.     We  could  trace  the  shape  of 
some  of  the  buildings  by  the  foundations ;  some  were  even 
more  perfect,  especially  the  entrance,  as  it  seemed,  to  an  Amphi- 
amphitheatre,  of  which  the  size  and  form  were  ([uite  distinct,  theatre. 

Our  evening  spent  in  rambling  about  Knlat  Medyk  was 


394 


HAJOB-QENERAL  ESTOOUBT'S   FIBST  JOURNEY. 


APPX. 
IIT. 


Violent 
attack  of 
ticM. 


Kalat. 
Schogger. 


Town  of 
Hamah. 


Watep- 
wheels  on 
the  river. 


Cultiva- 
tion, fruit- 
trees  only. 


A  kind 
host. 


Arrival  at 
IJoma. 


iuterestiDg  and  pleasant,  but  our  night  was  miserable :  our 
room  was  as  bad  as  it  well  could  be:  all  the  poor  diseased 
creatures  of  the  village  came  for  help  to  my  companion  the 
Hakim  (as  they  called  Dr.  Staunton),  who  dispensed  a  little 
medicine  with  a  great  deal  of  good  advice,  not  to  smoke  nor 
eat  greasy  things,  advice  which  they  would  not  follow.  At 
length  we  were  obliged  to  beg  them  to  leave  us,  that  we 
might  rest,  and  rise  early  the  next  morning ;  but  sleep  proved 
out  of  the  question ;  the  most  violent  attack  of  fleas  utteil] 
deprived  us  of  even  one  moment^s  rest,  till,  unable  to  bear  ij 
any  longer,  we  jumped  up,  mounted  our  horses,  and  rod 
away.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  under  a  rock  upoi 
which  were  the  ruins  of  another  castle,  Kalat  Schogger :  i 
was  a  narrow  space  to  build  on  :  the  walls  were  still  in  exist- 
ence,  but  dilapidated :  a  gatehouse  was  standing,  and  a  fei 
poor  people  lived  within  the  enclosure. 

In  the  evening  we  reached  Hamah.  It  is  a  large  town  o 
small  houses ;  and  is  chiefly  remarkable,  nowadays,  for  tb 
size  of  the  waterwheels,  which  are  turned  by  a  little  rife 
and  raise  water  to  the  required  level  for  irrigating  tb 
gardens,  and  for  supplying  the  houses.  They  are  fundshe<l 
fiifter  the  oldest  fashion,  with  small  pitchers  attached  to  th 
outer  circle :  these  are  filled  as  they  pass  through  the  watd 
and  as  the  wheel  is  forced  round  by  the  current  they  ri« 
till  they  discharge  their  contents  into  a  trough  at  the  top 
sometimes  (as  is  to  be  seen  on  the  Euphrates),  the  strear 
acting  on  the  wheel  alone  is  not  strong  enough  to  carry  u] 
the  full  pitchers,  in  which  case  fans  made  of  reeds  are  at 
tached  to  the  radii ;  they  project  at  the  side,  and,  beinj 
pressed  upon  by  the  current,  help  to  drive  the  wheel  Ii 
the  neighbourhood  of  Hamah  there  is  a  good  deal  of  cultin 
tion,  but  no  trees  except  fruit-trees :  the  soil  seemed  ricb 
but  rather  stony. 

We  were  lodged  with  a  hospitable  kind  Christian,  to  whoa 
we  brought  a  letter  from  George  Dibbs  of  Antioch.  Nothing 
could  exceed  the  attention  of  our  host;  indeed  it  wasmon 
than  was  quite  agreeable,  for  we  were  not  yet  broken  inti 
Eastern  manners,  and  found  the  incessant  salutations  irksonn 
and  inconvenient. 

April  14. — Leaving  Hamah,  we  reached  Horns  in  one  day 
a  large  but  deserted  town :  some  silk  is  lusvnufactured  Len* 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT's  FIRST  JOURNEY.  395 

but  there  seemed  neither  business  nor  pleasure  in  the  streets.     APPX. 

1  TT 

Just  outside  the  walls  is  the  ground  where  Ibrahim  Pacha  .  _   7^'  _ . 
beat  the  Turks  in  the  last  war. 

From  Horns  we  had  the  usual  difficulty  in  getting  away ; 
constant  promises  from  the  Mutsellim  that  horses  should  be 
provided^  but  none  forthcoming ;  till  we  became  angry  and  The  Mut- 
went  ourselves  to  him^  to  enquire  the  reason  of  our  detention,  ho^.^ 
As   is  invariably  the  case  amongst  these  people,  we  fouud 
him  full  of  the  most  polite  duplicity ;  he  expressed  his  deep 
regret  that  we  should  have  been  kept,  but  wished  us  not  to 
harry  away  from  Horns ;  the  journey  to  Damascus,  he  said, 
was   across  the  desert  for  four  days,  and  we  ought  to  rest 
before  undertaking  it.     That  sort  of  language,  however,  only 
made  us  more  angry ;  we  insisted  that  we  must  go,  till  at 
length  orders  were  g^ven  in  our  presence  for  the  horses  we 
wanted.  But  then  we  had  to  combat  against  taking  a  guard ;  He  pn>- 
the  road  was  across  so  wild  a  country  that  the  Mutsellim  could  IJ^^^ 
not  answer  for  our  safety  without  a  guard :  we  declined  it,  for  us. 
however^  until  he  assured  us  it  was  as  much  as  his  head  was 
worthy  if  any  misfortune  should  happen  to  us  by  the  way.    The 
case  was  then  changed :  if  it  were  to  satisfy  him  we  could  have 
no  objection,  but  the  charge  was  not  to  fall  on  us,  a  condition 
which  was  not  quite  within  his  meaning.     All  being   agreed 
to,  we  left  him :  the  horses  came  the  following  day,  but  late; 
a  small  guard  on  horseback  was  in  attendance,  and  we  set 
forward. 

The  first  night  was  spent  at  the  village  of  Shunsin ;  it  is  en-  Village  of 
closed  within  a  wall  of  defence,  having  one  gateway  :  such  is  ^'^^*'^'*- 
the  practice  in  almost  all  the  towns  and  villages  bordering 
on   the  desert.     The  houses  were  wretched,  and  the   place 
itself  hardly  more  than  a  khan  or  hostelry.     The  entrance 
to  our  chamber  was  by  creeping  through  a  small  low  door, 
and  its  size  within  was  about  eight  feet  square,  irregularly 
bmlt^  and  dirty.     A  little  bread  was  got  for  us,  and  we  went 
to  sleep,  fortunately  with  better  success  than  at  Kalat  Medyk. 
The  guard  had  been,  as  was  suspected,  an  excuse  to  extort  Our  guard. 
money :  it  consisted  of  four  men  on  horseback  as  far  as  Shun- 
sin, and  an  attempt  was  made  upon  us  there  to  induce  us  to 
undertake  the  expense  of  paying  them  ;  but  finding  that  we 
were  determined,  the  four  dwindled  down  to    two,   having 
first  compelled  the  Sheikh  of  the  village  to  take  the  place 


390  MAJOR-GENERAL   ESTCOURTS   FIRST  JOURNEY. 

APPX.      of  the   deserters,  with    a  party  on  foot.     By-and-by  the 

^\^-  ^    were  reduceii,  till   we  went  into   Damascus  with  only  oi 

horHeman,  a  most  impudent  feUow,  who,  with  the  mulet« 

had  impeded  our  journey  provokingly  all  the  way.     A  con 

phunt,  however,   to   the   Governor   of  Damascus,   throuj 

Mr.  Farren,  the  Consul-General,  gained  for  both  a  bastioad 

which  would  have  been  followed  by  imprisonment,  had  i 

OurjaniB-    not  begged  for  their   release;  when,  to  my   great  surprij 

**'^i*  *"      ^^^  janissary,  with  all  the  impudence  in  the  world,  present 

himself  at  our  lodging  to  ask  for  a  present  for  having  servi 

us  well. 

The  road  from  Homs  to  Damascus  is,  as  the  Mutselli 
had  told  us,  over  a  desert ;  it  passes  two  or  three  villag< 
enclosed  within  a  wall  for  protection.  By  degrees  the  desc 
becomes  partially  cultivated,  till  you  descend  into  the  valle 
VillaR*  in  which  is  Taifia,  a  better  sort  of  village,  in  the  midst 
of  Taifia.  corn-lands  and  gardens.  From  Taifia  we  ascendei  the  h 
range  of  mountains  before  we  caught  sight  of  the  bro 
valley  of  Damascus. 

It  was  a  beautiful  prospect :  rich,  well-cultivated,  aboun 

VttUeyof     ing  iu  fruit-trees  and  gardens;   open  to  the  desert  to  t 

Danjatjcuu.   gQ^th-east,  but  enclosed  on  all  other  sides  by  high  steep  hi) 

which  again  are  overtopped  by  the  snow-capped  Liban^ 

and  Mount  Hermon  in  the  distance. 

ArriTal  at        Damascus  rose  amongst  the  trees,  looking  white,  and  gi 

and  elegant.     Not  many  years  ago  a  Christian  could  scaro 

dare  to  enter  the  city ;  even  later  none  but  a  Mussulman  cot 

ride  through  the  streets  on  horseback  ;  but  since  the  govei 

meut  of  the  Pacha  of  Egypt  all  such  bigotry  has  ceased.   1 

encouragement  and  protection  of  Europeans  has  entirely  ] 

an  end  to  the  indignities  to  which  they  were  formerly  ( 

posed.     A  European  can  now  not  only  pass  safely  throu 

every  part  of  Syria,  but  he  will  also  meet  with  considerati 

even  in  his  own  costume.     Most  people  who  travel  in  \ 

country  adopt  that  of  the  Egyptians ;  yet,  except  for  co 

fort's  sake,  it  is  not  necessary. 

IKscrip-  After   passing  through  very  pretty-looking   ganiens, 

the  city.       entered  Damascus  by  a  gatehouse,  where  there  w-as  a  gui 

of  soldiers,  and   so  along  several  of  the  bazaars,  which  j 

celebrated  for  their  extent.    They  are  large  covered  pasi:a^ 


,-* 


MAJOR-GENERAL   ESTCOURT's   FIRST   JOURNEY.  397 

with  an  uninterrupted  line  of  small  shops  on  either  side.      APPX, 

There  is  a  raised  step  ahout  five  feet  wide  and  two  feet  high,  x_    ,  ' 

where  the  people  sit,  smoke,  and  talk.     The  shop  behind  is  '^^®  sbops. 
a  large  cupboard,  furnished  with  shelves.     The  owner  sits 
croeslegged  in  it,  and  spreads  some  of  his  wares  upon  the 
raised  seat  before  him  to  tempt  the  passers-by. 

The  men  spend  the  chief  portion  of  their  time  in  the  bazaars  The 
— some  for  business,  but  many  more  for  idleness.  A  crowd 
18  always  passing  and  repassing.  Coffee  and  sherbet,  pipes 
and  nargilehs,  are  supplied  from  a  small  recess  at  the  end 
of  each  bazaar,  where  there  is  an  establishment  for  the 
necessary  implements,  and  from  thence  some  one  is  constantly 
employed  in  running  about  with  coffee  or  lighted  charcoal 
for  those  who  are  seated. 

To  be  a  shopkeeper  is  a  great  ambition.     Having  once  Shop- 
acquired  sufficient  to  establish  a  shop,  the   title   of  ^jETo-    ®®F«- 
wajji^  or  gentleman,  is  given,  and  proportionate  respect  is 
shown. 

Damascus  is  termed  amongst  the  Syrians  a  very  *kaif'  or 
pleasure-making  place.  Amongst  the  gardens  around  are 
places  of  public  resort,  where  parties  of  women  assemble  for 
air  and  amusement.  They  sit  wrapped  in  their  white  sheets.  Costume 
which  cover  them  completely ;  on  their  feet  they  wear  very  ^^^^^^ 
large  awkward  yellow  boots,  so  that  all  delicacy  of  shape  is 
entirely  hidden. 

Without  the  walls  there  are  cafea^  built  over  the  clear  small  The  cafh. 
rivers  which  flow  beneath.     They  are  delightfully  cool  quiet 
places  during  the  heats  of  summer,  and  are  usually  crowded 
with  people. 

Close  to  Damascus,  upon  the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  is  a  Suburb  of 
suburb  called  Salahia,  where  the  more  opulent  have  summer 
residences.  The  air  is  there  fresh  and  healthful ;  a  supply 
of  water  flows  through  it  in  its  course  to  the  lower  town,  and 
by  means  of  conduits  is  carried  to  the  different  houses  for  the 
tanks  and  fountains,  in  which  there  is  great  luxury  in  the 
gardens  and  even  in  the  chambers. 

Damascus  has  still  Hhe  street  which  is  called  Straight ;'  *  j^^'the*''" 
there  is  a  cellar,  now  fitted  up  as  a  Christian  chapel,  which  Ejist. 
is  pointed  out  as  the  house  of  Ananias,  and  a  spot  is  shown 

*  Act«  ix.  11. 


=;•? 


■  'e 


if 


r*? 


of  the  escape  ot  nt.  raui  alter  ma  miracu 
and  whether  it  be  the  place  or  not,  when  I 
doubt  of  the  fact.  lodeed,  to  enjoy  a  jour 
Holy  Land  and  Syria,  you  must  not  doubt 
lee«t  for  the  time. 

Our  business  at  Damascus  was  to  see  Sh 

be  was  absent  upon  a  visit  to  the  neigbbo 

Interrirw    Salem.    However,  Boghaz  Bey  was  there,  and 

^^^^        ConBul-Geoeral,  was  fully  assured   that  we 

Key,  upon  the  answer  of  Boghaz  Bey  as  upon 

Pacha  himself;  for  be  was  much  trusted 

Government,  and  was  the  chief  counsellor  of 

accordiugly  paid  him  a  visit  with  Mr.  Farrei 

nothing  from  him,  except  an  assurance  of  g 

everything  we  could  possibly  desire  should 

given,  upon  an  order  from  Egypt  to  that  t 

very  unsatisfactory,  and  we  determined  to  re 

Py<t*ni  of        There  was   again   some   difficulty   in    p 

^fJ  because  the  government  was  seizing  men  ai 

Mirier.        military  service ;  so  that  the  poor  people  we: 

into  the  place,  lest  they  should  be  caught  s 

not  allowed  to  return  home :   indeed,  I  dot 

have  got  animals  at  all,  had  not  Mr.  Fari 

cowasses  to  seize  any  they  could  find.      ' 

wanted  having  been  obtained  in  this  way,  1 


MAJOR-GBNEEAL   ESTCOURT's  FIRST   JOURNEY.  399 

it,  being  within  the  walls  of  Damascus,  they  mighty  though     APPX. 

lired  by  us,  be  treacherously  seized  for  soldiers.  v. ^ . 

Having  heard  that  Ibrahim  Pacha  was  at  Tripoli,  on  his  Leave  Ba- 
way  from  Egypt  to  Antioch,  we  determined  to  go  there,  to  Trirwlt  °' 
cy  wbat  could  be  gained  from  him.     The  road  we  took  was 
luroucfli  Baalbek.      Upon  leaving  Damascus  we  ascended  the 
^i^TfinfAin  above  Salahia,  from  the  top  of  which  we  had  a 
iplendid  view  over  Damascus  and  the  whole  valley  in  which 
it  Ib  idtuaied.     The  first  village  where  we  halted  was  Zebdani,  Zobdani. 
%  pretty  picturesque  place.      The  next  day  we  crossed  Anti- 
[a^M^Tiim^  and  descended  to  Baalbek :   the  road  was  moun- 
fcainous  and  difficult.     Towards   the   close   of  our  ride,  we 
BBpied  some  columns  and  ruined  buildings  in  the  valley  just 
before  ua,  and  others  on  the  top  of  a  hill  to  our  left :  they 
did  not  seem  extensive,   but  were   plainly  ruins  of  better 
buildings  than  are  now  to  be  seen  in  the  country,  and  we 
4UXM>rdiDgly  rode  up  to  examine  them,  when  upon  reaching 
the  spot  we*  saw  the  magnificent  ruins  of  Baalbek  just  below 
hb  ;   the  line  of  Anti-Libanus  on  the  right ;  the  plain  of 
CSoelo-Syria  before  us,  bounded  on  the  opposite  side  by  the 
pand  chain  of  the  Grreat  Libanus. 

Baalbek  viewed  from  this  spot  looked  magnificent,  and  to  Ruins  of 
me  surprising  in  extent  and  grandeur.  The  present  inhabi-  ^^  ^  ' 
tants  are  few ;  it  is  but  a  village ;  but  the  remains  of  the  old 
buildings  of  different  dates  still  exist,  and  the  Temple  of  the 
Sun  stands  forth,  grand  in  the  extreme.  The  walls  and 
towers  of  the  city  are  in  parts  standing,  and  the  watercourses 
are  there,  and  still  furnish  an  abundant  supply  for  the  place. 
But  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  absorbs  every  interest :  it  stands  Temple  of 
raised  upon  an  elevation,  which  is  entirely  enclosed  by  walls : 
one  portion  of  that  space  is  an  oblong  building  with  a  colon- 
nade round  it ;  the  vrindow-cases,  architraves,  and  doorway 
are  ornamented  with  beautifully-cut  patterns,  ears  of  corn, 
grapes,  and  many  other  devices,  in  excellent  taste  and  perfect 
workmanship ;  the  pillars  of  the  colonnade  are  Corinthian, 
and  the  entablature  is  divided  into  compartments,  each  dif- 
ferent in  pattern,  and  of  the  choicest  sculpturing.  Beach- 
ing over  the  door  are  two  figures  of  Fame,  and  on  the  key- 
stone is  an  eagle  with  the  thunderbolts  of  Jupiter  in  his 
talons :  this  stone  is  of  immense  size,  and  has  fallen  from  its 


400 


MAJOE-QESERAL  ESTCOUBTS  FIRST  J0UESE1 


APPX.     place,  but  bangs  caugbt  halfway  by  the  greater  br 
^        ■  ifci  upper  portion. 

Bt.-^idea  this  beautiful  temple,  which  seems  more  < 
to  have  lieen  dedicated  to  the  Sun,  are  also  van 
cbanibera  ajid  enclosures  of  considerable  size,  prep 
niches  for  the  reception  of  busts  and  statues — raij 
for  ijucriiice,  perhaps,  and  a  sunken  place,  which 
was  a  basin  for  water ;  but  the  most  conspicuou 
whether  seen  from  a  distance  or  from  near,  are  six 
Columnar  columns,  standing  alone — the  sole  remains  of  the  b 
remami.  which  they  belonged,  and  with  a  highly  omameutal 
resting  upon  their  capitals.  Tlie  size  of  the  stones 
the  whole  building  is  constructed  is  wonderfuL  Y 
immense  mass  lying  on  the  ground,  and  upon  exami] 
detect  a  portion  of  ornament,  so  large  and  in  such 
you  can  scarcely  believe  it  to  match  the  light  elegant  i 
which  surmounts  the  still-standing  pillar,  and  which  i 
looks  BO  delicate  and  in  such  just  proportion.  Th 
is  a  fine-grained  sandstone,  much  resembling  in  < 
bath-stone,  but  considerably  finer:  it  is  more  liJi 
which  U  to  be  found  in  some  of  the  old  churches  in 
and  which,  I  believe,  is  said  to  hare  been  brought : 
mandy.  Those  who  hare  been  in  Portugal  may 
the  same  description  of  stone  atBatalha.  The  quai 
QiMrrinnf  whence  tlie  stone  of  Baalbek  was  cut,  are  within  a 
li.ialUk.  ^  half  of  the  place:  there  is  still  to  be  seen  an  immc 
cut  and  prepiired  ready  to  be  carried  away. 

Our  time  would  not  allow  us  to  remain  longer  at 
we  therefore  set  off  for  Tripoli,  intending  to  go  by  I 
of  Lebanon.  To  ascertain  the  road,  we  cons 
'  Jlodern  Trareller,'  from  which  we  learnt  that  we 
throiigli  Anete,  cross  orer  the  chain  of  Libaaus,  a 
to  the  Cedars;  but  upon  enquiring  for  them,  no  on< 
C-ilnrsof  found  who  knew  anything  of  Anete  or  the  Cedj 
ime  forward  and  declared  he  was  well  acquai 
the  '  Scdgar  Kebir,'  or  the  '  Crreat  Trees.'  This  was 
a  satisfactory  account  of  them ;  but  it  was  the  xu 
proach  to  a  description  of  them  that  we  could 
therefore  determined  us  to  engage  liim  as  our  guide 
Oiu"  road  was  for  two   hours  across   the  fertile 


•  LflMoan. 


MAJOE-GENERAL  ESTCOURT's  FIRST  JOURNEY.  401 

Coelo-Syria,  to  Dur-el-Alkmar,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  under     APPX. 

libanus.  After  ascending  and  descending,  we  reached  a  spot,  ._™'  _^ 

vbere  were  five  large  ash-trees  and  a  subterranean  chapel, 

wliieh  our  guide  declared  to  be  the  birthplace  of  the  Virgin  Subterra- 

Marj:  the  trees,  he  said,  were  the  Great  Trees;  he  knew  of  "^L^ 

aone  others,  nor  did  he  know  of  Anete  or  Bsherrai.     We 

•eemed  to  have  left;  all  population  behind ;  there  was  no  one 

k>  assist  or  to  direct  us.    It  had  become  very  hot,  and  we 

were  tired  and  thirsty ;  however,  there  was  a  pond  not  far  oflF, 

fco  which  we  rode  for  water.     Our  animals  had  felt  the  heat 

M  well  as  ourselves,  and  pressed   forward   to  drink.     Dr. 

Staunton's  horse  rushed  on  with  such  impetuosity  that  ho 

Ml  forwards  into  the  deep  water,  for  within  two  feet  of  the 

edge  the  sides  were  perpendicular.     After  swimming  round 

lad  round  for  some  time,  it  contrived  to  scramble  out,  and, 

except  a  wetting  for  both  the  rider  and  the  horse,  no  damage 

was  done. 

Whilst  this  was  going  on,  a  man  came  up,  from  whom  we  A  guide. 
leanlt  that  the  Cedars  were  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
teinn — that  he  knew  the  way,  and  would  lead  us  there.  He 
proposed  that  we  should  sleep  at  Anete,  but  that  we  should 
take  food  with  us,  for  nothing  was  to  be  had  at  Anete. 
Where  it  was  to  come  from  we  could  not  guess ;  there 
■eemed  to  be  no  one  near;  but  he  soon  procured  for  us  a 
little  flour,  some  salt,  and  a  small  pail  of  ^  leben '  or  sour  milk. 
With  these  we  set  forwards,  following  our  guide ;  but  in  a 
diort  time  the  pail  became  inconvenient  to  carry,  and  it  was 
■greed  to  drink  the  *  leben '  at  once.  I  pressed  our  guide  to 
partake,  but  he  refused ;  till,  supposing  that  I  was  not  satis- 
fied, he  took  a  mouthful,  and  showed  me  he  had  done  so,  to 
convince  me  he  might  be  trusted — that  having  eaten  with  us 
he  would  not  deceive  us.  After  wandering  uphill  and  down- 
hill through  woods  of  dwarf  oak,  we  came  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  where,  our  guide  said,  was  Anete,  though  scarce  a  Ancto. 
▼e^tige  of  the  village  could  be  seen.  Here  we  were  to  pass 
the  night,  and  accordingly  deposited  our  baggage  and  arms 
igainst  a  large  detached  piece  of  rock,  where  we  made  a  fire. 
Our  guide  made  dough,  kneaded  it  upon  a  stone,  and  flattened 
it  out  into  large  cakes,  which  he  placed  upon  the  hot  wood- 
ashes,  covering  them  over  with  more.    In  due  time  they  were 

D  D 


402 


MAJOB-GENESAL  ISfftCGUKSfS  FIBST  JOUBNEY. 


Diffinilt 
aacent  of 
Mount 
Lebanon. 


Roach  tho 
aummit. 


The 
dcscont. 


baked,  and  served  us  for  supper ;  we  then  made  up  the  f 
placed  our  arms  close  alongside  us,  and  laid  ourselves  dc 
to  sleep,  for  which  our  long  journey  and  scanty  fare  1 
prepared  us.  The  next  morning  we  rose  before  daybreal 
begin  the  ascent  of  the  mountain.  It  was  still  early  in 
year  for  crossing — no  one  had  yet  been  known  to  pass ; 
our  guide's  plan  had  been  to  sleep  just  below  the  line 
snow,  so  that  in  the  morning  we  might  traverse  the  mo 
tain  before  the  heat  of  the  sun  had  thawed  the  surfi 
The  ascent  proved  more  difficult  than  he  had  expected ;  tb 
were  no  marks  to  guide  us,  no  path,  nor  any  track ;  it ' 
extremely  steep,  and  we  were  not  early  enough  to  reap 
l)enefit  of  our  guide's  plan ;  the  mules  sank  into  the  sdi 
and  slipped  and  struggled ;  the  muleteers  were  loud  in  tl 
entreaties  to  us  to  give  it  up ;  even  our  guide  at  length  a 
it  was  useless ;  the  animals  could  not  cross.  Dr.  Staunt 
however,  was  still  for  persevering,  though  he  was  himself  v 
much  exhausted ;  and  at  length  we  reached  the  summit 

From  thence  was  to  be  seen  the  sea  in  the  direction 
Tripoli,  and  a  wide  extent  of  country,  comprising  mounts 
valley,  and  plain ;  below  us,  looking  black  upon  the  m 
were  the  far-famed  Cedars,  a  small  patch  upon  the  side  of 
mountain. 

All  our  troubles  were  now  supposed  to  be  at  an  end; 
descent,  we  thought,  must  be  easy ;  but  the  sun  had  risen 
this  time  high  in  the  heavens,  and  melted  the  snow  upon 
western  as  well  as  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain ;  ev 
step  we  took  we  sank  through  its  full  depth.  The  mu 
with  their  small  feet,  found  it  more  difficult  than  ourseh 
they  struggled  and  floundered,  till  the  muleteers  again 
treated  us,  even  now,  to  turn  back  and  give  it  up.  That 
course,  was  out  of  the  question :  we  threw  the  loads  off 
mules  to  relieve  them,  and  let  them  slide  upon  the  sno^ 
the  bottom.  One  mule  after  another  was  then  helped  d( 
— sometimes  by  lifting  one  leg,  then  another,  and  sometii 
almost  the  animal  itself.  All  got  to  the  bottom  except 
timid  mule,  the  last  of  the  string.  The  owner,  a  Christ 
h.'id  been  in  tears  some  time,  for  he  supposed  that  his  ani 
could  not  be  extricateil  from  its  difficulties :  it  w^as,  he  s 
his  sole  dependence  for  providing  a  marriage-portion  for 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  FIRST  JOURNEY.  408 

sister :  but  it  struck  me,  that  if  we  could  but  upset  the  animal,     APPX. 
she  might  slide  to  the  bottom  as  the  baggage  had  already         /_. 
done.     I  therefore  made  a  sign  to  the  other  muleteer — who 
iva8  a  Turk,  and  not  so  ready  to  break  his  heart  as  the  Chris- 
tian— to  give  me  his  help ;  and  whilst  the  creature  was  strug- 
gling and  off  its  balance,  we  turned  it  on  its  side,  and  let  it 
go.    Nothing  could  have  answered  better :  the  poor  Christian 
at  first  in  despair,  but  the  Turk  was  delighted ;  away 
the  mule,  and  reached  the  bottom  safely,  where  it  got  up 
iUid  walked  off  to  its  companions.     The  difficulties  being  at 
in  end^  the  loads  were  soon  replaced  upon  the  mules'  backs, 
aoid  we  continued  our  journey  by  a  less  steep  track* 

Presently    our  guide,    directing    the  muleteers    to    the 
Ebeikh's  house  at  Bsherrai,  led  Dr.  Staunton  and  myself 
itraight  to  the  Cedars,  which  we  saw  before  us.     We  soon 
reached  them.     Our  guide  prostrated  himself  at  the  foot  of 
Oie  largest,  where  a  rude  altar  of  stones  had  been  raised, 
ind  where  Mass  is  said  on  the  day  of  the  Transfiguration ; 
tie  then  told  us  he  had  fled  from  his  village  to  avoid  the  con-  Oar  guide 
icription,  and  now  lived  a  wandering  life  upon  the  mountains ;  ^^^^  ^• 
lO  that  he  could  go  with  us  no  farther.     The  little  present  of 
money  we  gave  him  for  his  services  pleased  him :  he  bade  us 
Gh>d-speed,  and  left  us  to  recross  the  mountains. 

We  were  now  under  the  Cedars,  and  I  must  confess  myself 
to  have  been  disappointed.  There  are  five  very  large  trees,  DeBcrip- 
bot  their  size  arises  chiefly  from  the  swelling  of  the  trunk  Codaw. 
|ii8t  where  the  branches  shoot,  which  is  from  low  down. 
IHiey  have,  indeed,  a  very  aged  look ;  the  branches  are  very 
large,  and  their  general  appearance  is  ragged.  Of  the  rest,  a 
lew  more  seem  old  and  are  large,  though  not  so  large  as 
the  five;  the  remainder  are  young  and  small.  Staunton 
^read  many  of  the  Psalms  which  speak  of  the  cedars  or  of 
Mount  Lebanon,  and  so  we  passed  our  Sunday. 

After  a  couple  of  hours  spent  in  this  celebrated  spot,  we 
went  to  Bsherrai.  The  bells  were  ringing,  for  all  this  coun- 
try ifl  Christian,  and  the  people  were  out,  it  being  Sunday ; 
aad  our  adventure  having  been  told  by  the  muleteers,  had 
taised  a  curiosity  to  see  us.  The  Sheikh  was  a  good  old  The  Sheikh 
JEOan,  who  treated  us  with  great  hospitality.  Bsherrai  is 
bmous  for  its  tobacco. 

D  D    2 


404 


MAJOB-QEKERAL  ESTCOUBTS  FIBST  JOUBNEY. 


APPX. 
Ul. 


Medical 
convnlta- 


Village  of 
Eden. 


Arrir&l  at 
Tripoli. 


Inteiriow 

with 

Ibmhim 


The  evening  was  spent  in  full  conclave.  The  peopl< 
round  the  room,  after  the  usual  custom^  curious  to  see  us 
to  hear  the  news.  Dr.  Staunton  was  soon  found  out  t 
a  physician.  Diseases,  curable  and  incurable,  were  bro 
to  hinu:  to  some  he  gave  medicine,  to  others  he  woidd 
only  an  answer  quite  unsatisfactory,  and  not  understood 
he  was  a  Hakim,  a  Hakim  Frangi,  and  must  have  rem< 
for  all  complaints. 

The  next  morning  we  got  away.  The  road  lay  thn 
the  village  of  Eden,  along  the  side  of  a  deep  valley: 
coming  to  the  end  of  that  part  of  the  mountain,  we  had  t 
view  of  the  beautiful  and  fertile  tract  between  Libanus 
the  coast.  Descending  into  the  plain,  we  passed  thr< 
gardens  and  groves  of  orange  and  mulberry-trees,  till 
reached  Tripoli,  called  in  the  country  *  Little  Damas 
from  its  reputed  neatness  and  luxuriant  environs. 

April  28. — To-day  we  paid  a  visit  to  Ibrahim  Pacha, 
was  staying  at  the  Port  of  Tripoli,  called  ^  Marina,"  whi 
about  half  an  hour  distant  from  the  town.  It  was  not 
any  hope  of  inducing  the  Pacha  to  lend  the  promised  & 
the  Expedition  that  we  paid  the  visit ;  for  we  learnt  on  ai 
at  Tripoli  that  Colonel  Chesney  had  been  there  from  Si 
in  the  *  Columbine,'  and  could  only  obtain  the  ever-r 
answer  that  everything  should  be  done,  as  soon  as  01 
to  that  effect  should  be  given  by  Mehemet  Ali ;  but  for 
self,  Ibrahim  declared,  he  was  without  authority — that  h 
a  mere  soldier,  and  would  only  follow  instructions,  thoug 
personal  feelings  were  much  inclined  to  the  Expedition, 
this  meant  nothing  but  a  refusal  to  move  a  jot. 

We  were  conducted,  upon  our  arrival  at  the  Ma 
to  Ibrahim^s  medical  officer,  a  German  of  the  nam 
Choehi,  a  clever  man.  With  him  we  found  Ibrahim's 
secretary,  or  rather  confidential  attendant,  who  had 
eiiucated  for  seven  years  in  England.  He  had  been  sent 
many  other  Egyptians,  by  Mehemet  Ali  to  Europe  for 
cation ;  he  bad  passed  some  time  at  Cambridge,  and  ui 
stooii  English  very  well.  By  him  we  were  conducts 
the  Pacha,  who  came  into  the  divan  as  we  entered  by  an* 
door,  tluis  avoiding  the  doubt  about  rising  or  not  i 
to  receive  us.     His  appearance  was  not  prepossessing 


MAJOBrGBNEEAL  ESTCOUBT'S  FIBST  JOURNEY.  405 

was   a   fat   ungainly   man^    with  a  scanty  grey  beard   and     APPX, 
a  small  quick  eye :    he  was  dressed  in  the  plain  military  ,  '    - 


costume  of  the  Egyptians,  but  without  a  sash.  Ibrahim, 
who  is  really  a  thorough  soldier,  assumes  a  carelessness  of 
diesB  and  manner,  as  becoming  great  talent.  Pipes  are  con- 
demned by  him  as  promoting  idleness ;  he  rarely  smokes  them 
liimself,  and  never  offers  them  to  his  guests :  indeed,  he  pro- 
hibits pipes  even  to  his  oflScers,  an  order  not  much  obeyed. 
Notwithstanding  these  reformations,  however,  he  by  his  own 
eiample,  and  by  precept  too,  encourages  the  vice  of  drunken- 
ness ;  so  that  the  valuable  Mussulman  habit  of  temperance  is 
not  retained  in  his  army,  though  so  thoroughly  engrained  in 
the  habits  of  the  people.  Intoxication  is  not  punished  among 
the  soldiers,  and  those  who  indulge  in  it  do  so  to  excess. 

Having  seated  ourselves,  the  Pacha  with  his  legs  stretched 
oat,  we  talked  generally  of  the  Expedition.  Ibrahim  said  Ibraliim's 
he  had  spoken  to  Colonel  Chesney  only  upon  those  points  ^®J?  ^'. 
which  were  the  cause  of  his  visit,  and  that  he  wanted  to  Expedition 
know  a  little  of  how  we  meant  to  proceed — to  cross  the  country 
with  our  heavy  materials,  to  build  our  boats  of  iron,  and  to 
descend  the  river,  which  he  believed  to  be,  in  parts,  too 
shallow.  We  answered  the  diflSculties  he  suggested  as  well 
as  we  could,  though  I  believe  he  remained  convinced  that 
they  would  prove  not  so  readily  surmountable.  He  could 
not  comprehend  how  an  iron  boat  should  swim,  nor  how  the 
draught  of  water  should  be  so  trifling  with  so  long  and  so 
large  a  vessel.  When  we  told  him  that  we  had  a  few  presents 
for  the  Arabs,  he  laughed,  and  recommended  us  by  no  means 
to  give  them  any — that  there  would  be  no  end  to  their  ra- 
pacity. At  the  conclusion  of  our  interview,  he  invited  us  to 
take  our  passage  with  him  to  Suedia  in  his  steam-frigate,  a 
hu'ge  English-built  vessel  lying  in  the  offing. 

As  we  expected,  nothing  was  gained  by  this  visit,  and  we 
had  to  return  to  the  Orontes  without  the  removal  of  a  single 
difficulty.  We  took  a  boat  at  Tripoli,  for  there  were  no  horses  Take  boat 
to  be  had,  and  we  could  not  wait  for  the  Pacha.  The  sails  ^^^  Tripoli. 
were  ragged,  and  the  gear  mere  packthread.  We  spent  two 
nights  and  two  days  uncomfortably  enough  ;  but  we  had  still 
something  to  compensate  for  it  in  the  magnificent  view  of  the 
coast  and  the  range  of  Lebanon,  of  which  the  outline  was 


406 


UAJOB-OBNERUi  BaTC0DRr*8  FIBffF  JOC 


APFX.     beautiful,  and  the  colour  deep  blue  and  very  t 

, ^: .  touched  at  Sotoaa  for  provisioas ;  but  bo  wre 

Bato^_        place  vas  it,  that  a  few  eg^,  onions,  and  brt 

could  procure. 

I«uki>.  At  the  end  of  the  second  da;  we  got  to  Lat^ 

received  with  great  hospitality  by  the  family  ( 

NaiiTf        who  is  a  native ;  his  brother  was  Consul  for  the ' 

^"•■^         both  were  handsome  young  men,  very  kind 

Their  mother  was  a  nice  old  lady,  who  took  h 

the  European  bshion,  at  the  head  of  her  own 

pretty  daughter  made  one  of  the  party. 

Latakia  is  pretty:  it  has   a  harbour  with! 

vessels,  and  has  a  large  share  of  the  Aleppo  tra 

nqrau  the        From  Latakia  we  took  horses,  and  after  i 

^^"^^        days  through  a  mountainous  woody  country,  s 

Gebel  Akra,  we  descended  to  the  Orontes,  croesf 

and  rejoined  the  Expedition  where  we  had  left 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND   JOURNEY.  407 


APPENDIX  IV. 

•  A  JOURNEY  FROM  SUEDIA  TO  RESCITID  PACHA'S 
CAMP  NEAR  DIYARBB.KR  (1835). 

BY  THE  LATE  MAJOR-GENERAL  J.  B.  B.  ESTCOURT. 

All  Colonel  Chesney's  attempts  to  procure  camels,  for  the  APPX. 
transport  of  our  stores  to  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates,  had  .  ^y*  . 
entirely  failed.  Ibrahim  Pacha  was  not  to  be  moved,  and 
his  orders  to  the  diflferent  officers  were  strictly  obeyed.  Some 
camels,  which  had  been  hired,  were  on  their  way  to  Suedia ; 
but  as  soon  as  it  was  known  at  Aleppo,  the  chief  officer  of 
the  district,  Ishmael  Bey,  sent  directly  to  stop  them,  at  their 
peril.  Seeing,  therefore,  that  our  detention  was  likely  to  be 
complete,  if  he  depended  only  upon  the  Egyptian  Govern- 
ment, Colonel  Chesney  determined  to  try  what  aid  could  be 
obtained  from  that  of  the  Sultan,  which  was  considered  more 
friendly  to  us  than  that  of  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt. 

All  sorts  of  intrigues  were  employed  to  defeat  the  Expedi-  Litrignea 
tion  ;  but  the  Sultan's  Government  was  less  alarmed,  and  ^'°8^^**® 

'  ,  .  '  Expedition 

therefore  less  inclined  to  impede  us,  than  that  of  Mehemet 
Ali.  The  firman  of  the  Sultan  was  sufficiently  strong  to 
warrant  the  diflferent  officers  in  giving  every  aid  the  country 
could  aflFord.  It  was  addressed  to  every  description  of  au- 
thority; and  though  the  independent  position  of  Mehemet 
Ali  enabled  him  to  take  his  own  course,  yet  Colonel  Chesney 
fully  relied  upon  all  those  who  immediately  belonged 
to  the  Sultan's  Government  to  render  assistance.  Accord- 
ingly, I  set  oflF  on  May  8,  in  the  evening,  on  a  mission  to 
Reschid  Pacha,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Cockburn  and  Mr. 
Staunton,  our  surgeon,  meaning  to  go  by  Khillis ;  but  no 
horses  could  be  procured  in  Antioch  for  Khillis — we  there- 
fore were  forced  into  the  other  road  by  Aleppo. 

Having  reached  Djezzer  Hadid  at  9  p.m.,  we  found  that  i)jez2ep 
tlie  caravan  of  mules,  to  which  in  fact  our  animals  belonged,  Hadid. 


408 


MAJOB-OENEBAL  ESTCOURTS  SECOND  JOURXEY. 


APPX. 
IV. 

A  night 
halt. 


A  manh. 


Eastern 
tnirelling. 


Tun^omnn 
cuftit*. 


was  encamped  on  the  plain  hard  by :  we  abo  made  a  h; 
tliere,  and  spread  our  cloaks  for  the  night,  not  quite  to  t 
8<itisfaction  of  one  of  my  companions,  who  had  not  yet  lea: 
how  comfortably  a  night  might  be  passed  with  no  other  p 
tection  than  a  cloak.  A  glimmering  light  attracted  < 
notice,  for  we  were  hungry ;  and  a  man  being  despatched 
try  what  could  be  found,  returned  after  some  time  v 
sunie  flat  cakes  he  had  waited  to  get  made,  a  little  milk,  i 
some  *  leben ' — a  description  of  sour  milk,  exceedingly  pi 
sant,  especially  in  summer ;  it  is  the  common  method 
preparing  milk.  In  the  course  of  the  night  there  w 
some  showers,  but  our  carpets  and  cloaks  kept  us  co 
fortable. 

At  dawn  of  day  we  bathed  in  the  Orontes,  and  n 
forward  over  the  plain,  where  the  grass  was  at  least  a  f 
and  a  half  high.  We  were  obliged  to  make  a  wide  circ 
to  avoid  a  marsh,  which  occupies  a  large  portion  of  the  pk 
It  is  formed  by  the  overflowings  of  the  AflFrin  river  and 
Lake  of  Antioch,  and  in  the  spring  encroaches  very  mi 
on  the  surrounding  plain.  The  rushes  grow  in  it  to  a  gi 
height,  of  fifteen  feet  and  more. 

It  was  a  charming  morning  as  we  rode  slowly  over 
plain.     In  travelling,  the  pace  is  never  faster  than  a  ws 
but,  though  it  would  be  tiresome  to  move  so  slowly  anywl 
elw?,  there  time  is  of  little  consequence — no  one  hurries, 
nature  was  growing,  and  we  enjoyed  the  freshness  and  pl( 
ing  sensations  it  communicated. 

I^y-aud-by  some  black  tents  of  the  Turcomans  appeal 
this  plain  is  the  chief  resort  of  those  who  own  the  autha 
of  the  Pacha  of  Egypt.  They  are  famous  for  their  hospital 
We  were  invited  to  rest  with  them  for  a  little  while.  T 
immediately  began  to  pound  coffee,  to  prepare  bread,  ant 
make  *  leben.'  The  practice  in  making  coffee  is  to  roa 
few  grains  upon  a  shallow  iron  ladle,  then  to  pound  tl 
thoroughly  whilst  the  water  is  boiling  in  the  pot.  ' 
pounded  coffee  is  then  poured  on  the  top  of  the  wa 
allowtnl  to  boil  up  about  three  times,  and  is  then  poured 
into  tiny  cups  for  each  person.  It  is  not  clear,  but 
quantity  in  each  cup  is  small,  and  the  coffee  pounded 
finely,  that  tlie  grounds  are  rather  pleasant  than  othenv 


MAJOB-GENEBAL  ESTCOUBT's  SECOND  JOUBNEY.  409 

rhe  bread  is  prepared  by  rolling  the  dough  into  exceedingly     ^y^' 

thin  cakes ;  these  are  laid  for  a  minute  upon  an  iron  plate, . — ^ 

jligbtly  convex,  over  the  fire,  are  turned  once  or  twice  with  Bread- 

%  cane ;  soiall  blisters  rise,  and  they  are  done;  they  are  then 

laid  by  in  a  woollen  cloth,  to  retain  their  freshness  and  heat. 

They  are  excellent.  The  '  leben '  is  a  mode  of  preserving  milk,  Preparing 

and  much  more  wholesome  than  milk,  in  a  raw  state :  the     ®  ®°' 

method  of  preparing  it  is  by  placing  the  milk  upon  the  fire 

till  it  just  begins  to  simmer :  it  is  then  taken  off,  and  a  spoonful 

of  former  *  leben,'^  or  any  acid,  is  put  into  it ;  it  is  covered 

over,  and  allowed  to  stand ;  in  a  short  time  the  whole  becomes 

tumcKl ;  it  is  of  about  the  consistency  of  what  is  called  *  thick 

milk.' 

Whilst  all  this  was  progressing,  we  sat  upon  our  carpets  Turcoman 
on  one  side,  the  Turcomans  on  their  hams  opposite,  smoking 
and  sipping  coffee.  Our  arms,  guns,  pistols,  and  swords 
attracted  their  admiration ;  in  fact,  though  they  frequently 
express  surprise  at  other  things  they  happen  to  see  in  the 
hands  of  Europeans,  they  understand  how  to  appreciate 
only  arms  and  horses.  These  are  necessary  to  every  man 
who  leads  the  life  of  an  Arab  or  Turcoman.  To  the  former 
they  are  still  riches,  for  with  them  he  acquires  wealth  by 
spoiling  others;  to  the  latter,  they  are  not  equally  a 
source  of  riches,  for  they  live  in  a  country  more  effectively 
under  the  Government  of  Egypt  or  of  the  Sultan,  and  are  no 
longer  able  to  levy  contributions  upon  travellers  as  they  used 
to  do. 

The  Turcomans  are  a  wealthy  race ;  their  tents  are  lofty 
and  large,  and  they  possess  flocks  and  cattle  in  abundance. 
The  Plain  of  Antioch  is  one  of  their  districts  of  pasture ;  Plain  of 
there  they  find  abundance  of  water,  and  plenty  of  grass  in  ° 
the  spring.  As  the  summer  advances  that  diminishes,  and 
formerly,  before  the  autumn  rains  had  begun,  they  were  in 
the  habit  of  migrating  to  the  mountainous  country  of  the 
Taurus.  Ibrahim  Pacha,  however,  has  interrupted  that 
practice.  He  has  endeavoured  to  break  through  their  no- 
madic habits,  and  to  force  them  to  settle  in  one  place :  partly 
because,  in  their  periodical  emigration,  they  passed  from  his 
territory  to  that  of  the  Sultan,  which  did  not  suit  the  uncer- 
tain peace  in  which  the  two  Governments  exist;  and  partly 


r 


I  . 

I 


410  MAJOB-OENERAL  ESTCOUBlfS  SECOND  J01JB5ET. 

APPX.      because  he  ¥ri8hed  to  eDCourage  tillage  and  the  growt 
>. — t^ — "  com.     With  this  view,  those  Turcomans  who  chose  to 


grate  were  to  understand  that  they  could  not  return,  an< 

Pacha  knew  too  well  how  necessary  the  fine  grazing  o 

plains  of  Syria  was  to  their  numerous  flocks  to  doubt 

would  be  their  choice. 

^^^^  In  governing  these  races,  the  system  has  been,  and  is 

Turcomaiu  to  make  the  chief  responsible.     The  fidling  on  the  pa 

anyone  to  execute  the  commands  which  are  given,  is  v 

with  such  severity  upon  the  chief,  that  he  takes  good 

not  to  incur  it.  The  mode  of  punishment  is  usually  by  i 

i  i|  so  many  measures  of  grain,  barley,  indian-com,  or  whej 

so  many  purses  of  money,  a  purse  being  500  piastres,  o 
now  about  five  pounds  of  our  money. 

Having  rested  for  two  hours,  we  rode  on  again, 
plain  continued,  but  on  our  right  it  was  terminatcKi  by 
of  hills,  at  the  foot  of  which,  standing  by  itself  up 
elevated  spot,  is  an  old  fort.     We  observed  here,  as  wi 
I  before,  in  the  Valley  of  the  Orontes,  towards  Hamal 

VoloiDie      same  remarkable  mounds.    We  saw  them  again  on  the 

moaDtls.      of  Azass.     They  are  very  curious,  like  giant  molehil 

believe  they  are  supposed  to  be  volcanic ;  basaltic  ston 

seen  on  the  sides  of  some  of  them,  and  scattered  to 

I.  tance.     What  is  still  more  curious  to  observe  is,  that 

'  I  stones  cover  perhaps  one  side,  but  leave  the  other  fn 

if,  when  the  little  volcano  was  at  work,  the  wind  had 
;'  what  was  thrown  up  in  one  direction — and  if  it  were  so, 

must  have  been  but  one  eruption. 
)  As  the  sun  got  up  the  heat  became  intolerable,  so  tl 

if  were  glad  to  make  another  halt  under  a  single  tree,  cl 

I  the  remains  of  a  stone  bridge.     It  was  a  fatal  halt,  f 

Disadvan-  pasture  was  there  so  good,  that  there  was  no  persuadij 
tages  of  muleteers  to  leave  it.  Delay  after  delay,  upon  one  exc 
^^^  another,  took  place  till  ten  o'clock  at  night ;  nor  shoi 
have  moved  even  then  had  we  not  got  into  a  passion,  i 
contrived  to  convince  the  muleteers  that  we  were  in  es 
No  one  can  conceive,  I  think,  who  has  not  himself  experi 
it,  how  terribly  patience  and  good  temper  are  tried  if  y< 
travelling  in  Syria  in  a  hurry,  and  have  no  interprei 
janissary  to  enforce  your  wishes.     The  muleteers  are  li 

t 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOISTD  JOURNEY.  411 

look  surprised  at  your  anger,  but  do  not  seem  the  least  aware     ^^^ 

that  they  have  caused  it,  much  less  that  they  could  prevent  ' r-^— ^ 

it.  They  do  not  laugh,  or  show  the  least  impertinence,  but 
only  let  the  storm  rage  and  pass,  and  then  they  smoke  again  I 
We  had  to  bear  this  more  than  once  during  this  halt ;  but  at 
length  we  broke  through  their  obstinacy  by  running  after  the 
mules  ourselves,  and  driving  them  up  to  be  loaded. 

The  road  was  now  over  a  mountainous  barren  tract.  To- 
wards the  morning  we  passed  through  a  very  ancient  town  Ancient 
in  ruins.  The  buildings  were  of  stone,  well  cut  and  well  put 
together  ;  it  looked  like  the  work  of  the  Romans,  The  arch 
of  a  pathway  still  stretched  across  the  road,  which  is  paved 
with  large  paving-stones — such  as  are  seen  in  Pompeii,  for 
instance.  One  small  building  alone  is  standing,  probably  a 
private  dwelling. 

Towards  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  muleteers  prayed  A  morning 
for  a  halt  The  spot  was  not  in  the  least  inviting ;  it  was  a  ^ 
barren  stony  side  of  a  hill,  where  there  was  a  well  of  dirty 
water.  But  we  were  very  tired,  cramped  by  the  Eastern  saddles 
and  the  slow  tiresome  pace ;  therefore,  without  one  word  of 
objection,  we  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  cloaks,  and  were  fast 
asleep  in  a  moment. 

The  remainder  of  our  journey  was  still  over  the  same  sort 
of  stony  country.  At  last  Aleppo  appeared.  It  is  very  Aleppo, 
striking,  from  its  size,  its  minarets,  its  buildings,  and  its 
castle,  which  stands  by  itself  upon  a  round  hill  in  the  middle 
of  the  city.  But  though  the  country  all  about  is  stony  and 
desolate,  the  colours,  owing  to  the  climate,  are  rich  and  deli- 
cate ;  a  pinkish-grey  generally  prevails  in  the  distance,  which 
is  very  beautiful. 

We  rode  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Kilby,  a  British  merchant,  Visit  to 
who  had  undertaken  to  transact  the  business  of  the  Expedi- 
tion— a  very  active,  industrious,  intelligent  man,  who  had 
lately  established  a  firm  in  the  place  in  connection  with  Glas- 
gow. At  his  house  afterwards  we  always  met  with  hospitality 
and  kindness.  It  is  no  small  advantage  to  have  a  place  of 
refuge  in  Aleppo ;  for  the  public  khans  are  very  disagreeable, 
and  the  usual  system  of  having  a  billet  upon  a  private  house 
is  not  so  common  as  elsewhere,  owing  perhaps  to  the  many 
travellers  who  pass  through,  whose  number  would  make  it 


412 


MAJOB-GENEEAL  ESPTCOUBT'S  SECO^^)  JOUENEY. 


APPX. 

IV. 

*»— — » 

Public 


Pwrrp- 
tkiii  of 
Alr|>pO. 


chamrter 
of  Flavtern 
town*. 


Efl«*ctsof 
tbqiuke 


burdensome  to  the  iuhabitantA.  The  public  khans  are  po 
plaots  for  a  tired  traveller.  Thej  consist  usually  of  a  squa 
courtyani,  around  which  are  long  stables  for  animals,  a 
small  rooms  for  men.  The  stables  are  prepared  with  8m 
niches  in  the  walls  for  mangers^  and  the  room  is  a  pla 
chamber  abuut  ten  feet  square,  with  a  door  to  the  court, 
which  the  keeper  of  the  khan  gives  the  key.  For  the  pooi 
travellers,  muleteers,  and  attendants  to  the  animals,  there : 
large  open  recesses,  where  they  deposit  their  things  and  sle 
There  are  no  servants  to  furnish  the  necessary  wants,  ba 
shop  is  generally  established  at  the  entrance,  where  forage 
to  be  bought  as  well  as  bread,  and  where,  over  a  charco 
fire,  small  rolls  of  meat  strung  upon  a  skewer  are  to  be  se 
coukiug;  they  are  called  'khabaubs,'  or  delicate  morsels.  I 
mrely  that  the  European  traveller  of  any  pretension  is  oblifi 
to  have  recourse  to  the  public  khan.  The  Mutsellim  of  t 
town  will  either  receive  him  himself,  or  more  usually  a&^i 
him  to  some  good  house. 

Aleppo  is  well-built  for  a  Syrian  town,  chiefly  of  stoi 
the  streets  are  narrow — no  windows  look  towards  the 
Some  of  the  houses  are  large  and  handsome  within.  1 
bazaars  are  very  extensive.  There  is  a  quarter  for  1 
tailors,  others  for  the  slipper-makers,  the  linendrapers,  1 
druggists  (which  includes  confectioners),  the  workers 
gold  and  silver;  in  short,  every  trade  associates  by  its( 
and  occupies  a  separate  bazaar.  The  castle  stands  upoi 
considerable  elevation,  which  I  believe  is  artificial.  It  is  si 
n^unded  by  a  deep  ditch,  and  the  £Etce  of  the  mound  is  pa\ 
with  cut-stone.  The  entrance  is  by  a  causeway  upon  an  ai 
stretched  across  the  ditch. 

But  striking  as  is  the  effect  which  Aleppo  produces  a 
distance,  and  superior  as  it  is  to  other  cities  in  Syria,  s 
the  traveller  cannot  but  feel  disappointed  when  he  is  wit! 
the  walls.  Every  town  in  the  East  has  a  sombre  charact 
and  in  Aleppo  the  dire  destruction  from  the  last  earthqui 
has  not  been  repaired  or  cleared  away.  As  we  looked  fin 
the  top  of  Mr.  Kilby's  house,  and  could  see  into  some  of  1 
neighbouring  buildings,  we  could  discover  heaps  of  rubbish 
around.  There  is  no  spring  in  the  constitution  of  a  Tui 
be  knows  nothing  of  the  principle  *  aide-toi  et  Dieu  t'aidei 


MAJOBrGENEBAL  ESTCOUET'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  413 

He  bears  the  blow  which  crushes  him  with  resignation,  and  APPX. 
has  no  rebound  within  himself  to  help  him  up  again.  For  —  /^^ 
this  reason — and  also,  it  must  be  owned,  because  the  constant 
demands  of  the  Government  carry  oflF  a  large  share  of  the 
means — Aleppo  is  left  in  ruins.  The  trade,  however,  is  con-  Trade  of 
siderable  and  increasing.  A  few  English  houses  introduce  Aleppo. 
cotton  goods  from  Manchester  and  Glasgow,  and  create  an 
improving  traflBc  with  Bagdad  and  Diyarbekr.  It  is  a  trade 
which  should  not  be  neglected.  In  former  days  it  was  very 
great.  The  Euphrates  used  to  transport  large  quantities  of 
goods  from  Bir  to  Felujah,  from  whence  they  were  conveyed 
to  Bagdad  by  canal ;  added  to  which,  caravans  of  some  thou- 
sands of  camels  used  to  cross  the  desert.  Of  this  trade,  that 
by  the  Euphrates  has  disappeared ;  but  the  caravans  are  still 
in  full  march,  and  thus  the  productions  of  our  manufactur- 
ing districts  are  conveyed  into  the  interior  of  Asia.  Oriental 
patterns  are  sent  home,  and  cotton  goods  come  out  to  supply 
the  wants  of  people  who  are  so  distant  that  they  have  hardly 
heard  of  the  country  from  whence  this  imitation  of  their  own 
manufactures  is  brought,  and  know  nothing  of  the  wonderful 
machiaery  which  can  provide  them,  even  there,  cheaper  than 
they  can  make  them  for  themselves. 

Eound  Aleppo  there  are  some  few  gardens ;  a  small  river  its  gardens 
supplies  water ;  the  bazaars  are  extensive  and  busy;  the  hum  ^^^ 
and  hurry  and  confined  air  render  it  fatiguing  to  pass  much 
time  in  them. 

Upon  this  visit  to  Aleppo,  the  British  interests  were  en-  inefficient 
trusted  to  a  miserable  Italian,  who  was  so  much  alarmed  at  Consul. 
the  idea  of  mixing  himself  in  the  aflfairs  of  the  Expedition, 
that  it  was  useless  to  expect  any  assistance  from  him.     My 
business  was  to  remonstrate  with  the  chief  officer  for  his 
conduct  in  stopping  our  camels,  and  for  the   interruption 
with  which  the  Expedition  met.     But  our  poor  Consul  could 
not  be  brought  to  comprehend  what  was  his  duty  as  British 
agent ;  I  was  therefore  obliged  to  do  without  him.     How- 
ever, I  had  no  success  in  my  negotiation.     The  officer  in 
command  was  Ishmael  Bey,  a  young  man,  I  should  think,  Ishmael 
between  twenty-five  and  thirty  years  of  age.      He  had  none      ^' 
of  the  usual   shuffling  of  the  authorities,  but,  with  perfect 
politeness,  told  me  plainly  (though  he  shook  with  nervousness 


1 


-:  ! 


^ 


iH  11AJ0K-GE5EKAL  ESTCOrBTS  SECOND  JOOESET 

AT:;!.     »;  the  K:sp'>DatiIity  he  waa  incumog%  that  he  bad  i 
"'        order  \,ack    th«  cameb,    and    that  no  astibtance  voi 
gi;en  lo  the  Eipeditioo-     During  our  interview  we  hei 
•[y^  t^,      slapping  of  the  bastinado  in  the  court   below.     Mr. 
uk^        l->:-kcd  out  of  window,  and  saw  a  man  on  his  back  w 
Lure  fn;>  tied  oTer  a  stick,  and  receinog  upon  thi 
EiTrn^h  of  two  men  with  *  kudbaghea'.     The  '  kudbo, 
h-.  rirwhip    made    of    rhinoceros- hide,  and   inflicts  i 
LI0W&     I^hmarl  Bey  had  the  bad  taste  to  Look  out  al 
lao^h  at  the  pain  he  himself  bad  ordered. 
IMfTmia*       I  iio«  dctenntoed  to  proceed  to  Keachid  Pacha  at  Diy 
^^_]^,       aoJ  wished  to  take  the  line  by  Beles.     After  much  di 
ttiM.        in  finding  a  muleteer  who  had  ever  heard  of  the  pi 
leo^h  one  was  hired,  who  undertook  to  conduct  us. 
eanic  time  I  wanted  an   interpreter   and   a   servant 
Ibbv  ■■   ft'tmer  was  eoon  engaged — a  clever  little  rogue,  who 
icirflMtc  gj,^  J  French,  a  little  Italian,   Arabic,  and  Turkish 
servant,   however,   waa    not   so   easily   settled;    thoi 
wanted  places  could  not  bear  the  idea  of  so  long  a  j' 
or  the  dangers  of  so  much  desert.     The  Aleppines 
eSeiv-iuate  people,  and  cannot  believe  in  security  imli 
rouudt-d  by  the  walls  of  their  city.  I  saw  no  prospect  of 
Ad  a  servant,  and  determined  to  set  off  without  one ;  1 

Aic;^iftp     evening  before  our  departure  a  little  fellow  presented 
who  could  speak  only  Turkish  and  a  little  Arabic 
an  Armenian ;  his  eye  was  so  Bharp,  and  he  appeare< 
telli^eot,  that,  though  I  could  not  tell  how  we  were  1 
^  miiiiicate  with  each  other,  I  engaged  him  at   once- 

I  never  afterwards  had  reason  to  repent ;  he  was  a  most : 

ifelluw,   and  watched   every  motion   to  find  out   wh 
wuDted. 
'  Whilst  we  were  at  Mr,  Kilby's  house,  we  saw  a 

process  of  striking  a  bargain  upon  a  sale  he  was  ma 
Nnliro  certain  goods  to  a  native  merchant.  There  are  broki 
brokers.  j^^^  employed  by  both  purchasers  and  sellers ;  the 
what  goods  a  merchaut  has,  and  what  are  his  prices 
he  receives  a  fresh  cargo  they  inspect  it,  and  make  thei 
acquaiuted  with  the  views  of  the  merchant:  thus  pn 
thoy  pcrauibulate  the  bazaars  to  find  out  purchasei 
are  able  to  conduct  them  to  where  they  will  find  whi 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  415 

want.     They  then  arrange  the  bargain — an  aflFair  sometimes     ^^^' 
of  days,  but  always  of  hours ;  the  merchant  asks  more  than  ^ 


he  means  to  take,  and  the  buyer  oflFers  less  than  he  means  to  Eastern 
give  ;  the  steps  by  which  they  approach  to  an  agreement  are  ^^*^^*^®* 
tiresome  beyond  description.  In  this  case  there  had  been  much 
higgling  in  the  morning,  but  with  no  result ;  in  the  evening, 
however,  we  were  disturbed  by  the  entrance  of  the  broker, 
who  came  dragging  his  victim  by  main  force,  talking  fast 
and  loud,  and  using  actual  violence  to  compel  his  man  to 
finish  the  business  and  make  the  bargain.  But  no — that  was 
'not  to  be  accomplished  yet.  Then  he  ran  at  Mr.  Kilby,  seized 
him  by  the  hand,  and  insisted  that  he  should  agree  to  the  pur- 
chaser's terms.  But  no— Mr.  Kilby  was  firm,  and  could  not  be 
moved.  The  broker  hereupon  got  furious,  and  at  length  drew 
them  violently  towards  each  other,  seized  the  hands  of  both 
parties,  joined  them,  and  declared  the  bargain  concluded. 
Mr.  Kilby  did  not  aflFect  all  the  sorrow  customary  on  such  an 
occasion,  but  the  native  merchant  did ;  you  would  have  sup- 
posed he  had  given  his  hand  to  something  by  which  he  had 
sealed  his  ruin,  and  he  wept  aloud. 

On  the  15th  we  set  off,  at  half-past  six  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  and  travelled  till  three  in  the  morning,  when  we  Leave 
bivouacked  close  to  a  curiously-built  village;  every  house      ^^^' 
was  roofed  with  a  dome  drawn  rather  to  a  point. 

May  16. — We  mounted  at  sunrise ;  the  country  was  plain, 
with  a  good  soil,  and  plenty  of  grass.  Towards  midday  the 
heat  became  excessive ;  we  halted  by  some  water,  but  had  no 
shelter  from  the  sun,  and  therefore  could  get  no  rest.  In  the 
afternoon  we  continued  our  journey  till  10  p.m.,  when,  after 
crossing  a  rapid  stream  by  a  ford,  we  found  so  tempting  a 
spread  of  grass,  that  we  laid  ourselves  down  and  enjoyed  a 
delicious  rest — the  sky  above  glittering  with  stars,  and  the 
river  rippling  in  our  ears. 

May  17. — Our  journey  was  again  over  a  plain-country:  Level  cha- 
indeed,  I  remember  no  part  of  the  road  from  Aleppo  which  J^^^'y^trv 
would  be  impracticable  for  a  carriage.  About  9  a.m.  we  could 
discern  a  line  of  bluish  heights,  which  we  suspected  to  be  those 
of  the  Euphrates — the  great  and  interesting  river  to  which  we 
were  all  looking  with  so  much  anxiety;  at  10  o'clock  we 
touched  upon  a  largish  town  (Mizar),  from  whence   great 


416  MAJOB-OENERAL  ESTCOUBT'S  SECOND  JOUENEY. 

APPX.     abundance  of  oil  is  carried  to  Aleppo :  we  did  not  enter  it  Al 


IV. 


»   a  well  here  we  found  a  poor  Jew,  who  gave  us  some  water  t 

drink  ;  he  said  he  had  been  waiting  five  days  to  be  allowed  t 

enter  the  town,  and  that  he  was  now  expecting  the  retnr 

of  a  messenger  sent  to  Aleppo  for  a  '  tuskar^y '  or  license  I 

that  effect.     The  poor  Jews  are  considered  fair  game  for  ti 

exercise  of  every  governor's  caprice. 

ArriTal  In  two  hours  from  Mizar  we  reached  the  Euphrates  iteel 

just  opposite  to  the  town  of  Bir,  or  Birejik ;  the  first  is  tl 

Arabic  name,  and  the  second  the  Turkish.     It  has  a  strikii 

appearance,  having  an  elevated  castle  looking  immediate 

over  the  river.     The  walls  of  the  town  are  built  perpendio 

larly  from  the  water,  and  the  ground  rises  much  in  the  rea 

so  as  to  give  a  view  of  the  whole  extent  of  the  place.    Clo 

along  its  walls  flows  the  Euphrates :  in  the  spring,  during  tl 

high  water,  it  is  about  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  but  in  tl 

autumn  it  is  reduced  to  about  200  yards. 

Ancient  At  Bir  is  the  chief  place  for  crossing — ^indeed,  it  is  the  on 

piisM^  of    place  till  you  arrive  at  Anna ;  though  the  Arabs  do  cro 

phrstM.       upon  skins  and  rafts  wherever  they  desire,  and  when  tl 

water  is   low,  they  have   fords   by  which   camels  pass  \ 

different  places.     But  Bir  is  the  established  passage,  ai 

has  been  so  ever  since  the  days  of  Abraham,  who  himse 

is  supposed    to   have  crossed    there,   when,   following  tl 

guidance  of  God,  he  migrated  from  Haran  to  go  into  ti 

Ferry  boats  land  of  Canaan.     The  boats  for  the  ferry  are,  perhaps,  \ 

old  in  construction  as  those  which  Abraham  himself  ma 

have  used.     They  have  a  flat  floor  with  high  sides ;  at  on 

end  is  a  raised  platform  for  the  steersman,  who  perfom 

his  duty  by  working  a  long  heavy  sweep,  which  is  balance 

over  that  end.     The  other  end  of  the  boat  is  open ;  tl 

floor  merely  rises  up  about  a  foot  to  keep  the  water  ou 

but  otherwise  it  is  an  open  entrance,  the  full  breadth  ( 

the  boat« 

In  speaking  of  Bir  as  the  only  passage  till  you  come  i 
Anna,  it  is  right  to  explain  that  it  is  the  only  place  soutl 
wards :  for  above  it  are  the  crossings  of  Bumkala,  Samsa 
&c.  Upon  coming  to  the  water  we  found  an  oflScer  under 
tree  :  ho  belonged  to  the  service  of  Ibrahim  Pacha,  and  w 
ou  outpost-duty  to  watch  the  ferry.     Upon  my  return  fro 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND   JOURNEY.  417 

>iyarbekr  afterwards,  a  change  had  taken  place  in  the  terri-     ^^' 
orial    boundary   of  the  two   provinces.     By  the  treaty  of 


Ibrahim  Pacha  had  to  give  up  the  whole  of  the 
mchalic  of  Orfah,  which  he  did  with  great  rehictance,  and 
lied  by  all  means  at;  least  to  keep  the  boimdary  of  the 
Suphrates;  but  through  the  interference  of  England  and 
France  he  was  compelled  to  yield,  and  therefore  had  to 
*etire  to  the  line  of  the  Sedjur,  a  distance  of  ten  hours  back. 

Whilst  we  were  detained  waiting  for  permission  to  cross,  Reach 
WB  rode  up  the  river,  but  by  doing  so  had  wellnigh  lost  the  l^^^ejik. 
dbance  of  getting  into  Birejik  that  night;  with  much  diffi- 
salty  the  governor  was   persuaded  to  admit   us,   but   not 
iniihout  the  precaution  of  sending  a  guard  of  30  men  for  us, 
to  ensure  him  against  surprise  from  Ibrahim's  men. 

May  18. — We  visited  the  governor.  He  was  an  old  heavy-  Visit  to  the 
looking  man,  who  began  his  intercourse  with  us  with  abun-  governor. 
dant  professions  and  promises,  founded  upon  his  vast  expec- 
taiions  of  gain ;  but  being  too  rapacious,  he  was  disappointed : 
he  turned  out  a  treacherous  bad  fellow,  and  an  addition  to  our 
oiher  difficulties.  When  visiting  him  we  had  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  the  castle ;  it  stands  upon  a  rock  cut  off  from  the 
town  by  a  natural  separation,  but  having  the  slope  at  the  foot 
of  the  walls  strengthened  by  a  facing  of  stone,  similar  to  the 
castle  at  Aleppo.  The  interior  has  been  quite  ruined  by 
earthquakes. 

At  one  o'clock  we  resumed  our  joilmey.  The  country  was  Journey 
barren  of  everything  except  shrubs  of  wormwood.  A  large  ^™ik 
;l|^rd  of  camels  was  grazing  not  far  from  Birejik,  and  for 
Ae  first  time  I  saw  them  move  faster  than  their  customary 
Itately  walk.  The  cameleer  wanted  to  collect  them,  and  had 
lHounted  one :  he  had  no  halter,  but  seated  on  the  animal's 
hmck,  with  a  thick  stick  in  his  hand,  he  drove  the  creature 
tt  a  long  trot,  guiding  him  from  one  camel  to  the  other 
derely  by  laying  the  stick  either  against  one  side  or  the 
Ktber  of  the  neck. 

In  the  evening  we  halted  for  two  or  three  hours,  and  then 
ode  on  till  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning;  when,  having 
ft>«sed  a  mountainous  track,  and  being  excessively  tired,  we 
arned  our  animals  a  few  paces  from  the  road,  spread  our 

petfi,  and  went  fast  asleep.     How  long  that  lasted  I  cannot 

£  E 


418 


MAJOB-GENERAL  ESTCOURT's  SECOND  JOURNEY. 


Encamp- 
ment of 

ArtbH. 


Arab  and 
his  mare. 


Price  of 
horsi's. 


tell ;  but  suddenly  I  was  awoke  by  a  noise.  I  sprang  up,  and 
saw  Antoine,  our  dragoman,  with  my  gun,  hallooing  afters 
man,  who  was  running  off  as  fast  as  he  could.  Antoine  toM 
me  this  had  been  the  third  he  had  seen  lurking  about  us. 

>Mien  the  sun  rose,  we  found  ourselves  not  far  from  an 
encampment  of  Arabs,  from  whom  we  procured  *  leben,'  breid, 
and  *khymack,'  which  last  is  precisely  Devonshire  creanu 
Presently,  as  we  sat  eating,  an  Arab  came  riding  up,  hii 
lance  in  his  hand,  and  his  handkerchief  folded  three-corner- 
wise  over  his  head,  having  one  corner  hanging  down  on  eack 
side  of  his  face,  after  the  Arab  &shion.  He  dismoimted,  and 
stuck  his  spear  upright  in  the  ground,  secured  his  mare  \ff 
tying  her  head  to  her  foreleg,  and  then  passing  the  halter  oi 
to  the  hind-leg;  such  is  the  practice  always.  He  tbes 
approached  us  with  salaams,  and  took  his  place  upon  bii 
hams  opposite  to  us.  He  had  a  forbidding  countenance,  but 
he  turned  out  a  good  specimen  of  an  Arab. 

His  mare  now  became  the  subject  of  conversation :  she  m 
a  pretty  creature,  showing  high  breeding.  He  told  us  stwn 
of  how  she  had  saved  his  life  many  times — how  she  hi 
brought  him  foals ;  and  praised  her  powers  of  endurance,  her 
many  virtues,  and  her  value  to  him  when  bound  on  plundtf- 
ing  excursions,  of  his  success  in  which  he  boasted  opeolj* 
Wo  wanted  water,  but,  there  being  none  at  hand,  he  moimted 
his  mare,  and  rode  off  with  a  leathern  bag  to  fetch  some; 
soon  he  returned  cantering  over  the  country,  followed  by  te 
son,  a  little  child,  upon  the  young  foal  of  his  mare.  He  vi* 
fond  of  his  son,  and  of  the  foal  too ;  they  seemed  to  share  to 
affection  equally.  He  told  us  his  son  came  to  salute  him  ^ 
the  morning,  but  he  bid  him  go  salute  his  mother,  the  mu^j 

who  brings  him  all  that  he  has  to  eat^     True  or  blse»  I 
listened  to  these  stories  with  great  interest;  they  were  9^ 
stories  as  we  have  always  supposed  characteristic  of  tli«i*| 
curious  people,  and  here  they  were  from  the  mouth  of  o* 
of  themselves,  expressing  clearly  their  thoughts,  and  habile  | 
and  ways  of  life. 

Tlie  Sheikh  of  the  tribe  next  rode  by  upon  a  beautiful  roAj 
only  three  years  old.  I  asked  him  to  sell  it ;  he  wanted  3,0W 
piastres  (30/.  sterling).  I  offered,  by  the  direction  of  tk*] 
dragoman,  who  pretended  to  be  knowing  in  horses,  10/.  W 
the  Sheikh  knew  the  value  of  his  animal,  and  rode  away. 


MAJOR-GENEBAL  ESTCOUBT's  SECOND  JOURNEY.  419 

This  reminds  me  of  another  instance,  proving  how  much     APPX. 
M  people  value  their  horses^  and  which  adds  not  a  little  ^ 


their  interest  Whilst  we  were  resting  in  the  evening,  Ambat- 
Amhy  mounted  on  a  delicate  bloodlike  mare,  with  a  foal  ^o  horses, 
lier  side,  rode  to  the  well  where  we  were,  to  water.  I 
Bd  him  to  sell  his  mare ;  but  he  said,  for  all  I  could  give 
fc  he  would  not  part  with  her.  She  had  all  the  appearance 
«  pure  blood — a  fine  intelligent  delicate  head,  a  pro- 
lent  eye,  graceful  in  movement,  with  great  sinew  and 
ingth. 

"n  the  evening  we  reached  Orfah.  The  approach  is  over  a  Reach 
3p  rocky  mountain,  on  the  descent  of  which,  towards  the  ^^***- 
Ti,  the  road  is  cut  with  some  care  into  broad  steps,  like 
«e  in  the  palaces  at  Bome.  Orfah  stands  at  the  bottom, 
iked  by  mountains,  and  with  a  plain  of  alluvial  soil  to  the 
Lth-east,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  face  of  the 
^nntain  behind  it  has  a  curious  appearance,  from  holes  and 
•"eras,  which  have  been  used  as  dwelling-places  at  diflFerent 
leg.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  upon  a  high 
i  overlooking  it  is  a  castle  in  ruins.  Two  remarkable  pil- 
V  stand  up  in  the  midst  of  it,  about  which  there  is  a  story 
i  that  a  certain  cruel  Kins^  Nimrod  made  use  of  them  as  Trmlition 
place  of  punishment:  there  was  a  chain  stretched  from  ^^  ^""'^• 
e  to  the  other,  and  a  beam  so  attached  that,  when  drawn 
ek  and  suddenly  let  go,  it  should  fly  forward  with  great 
Jence.  The  poor  victim  was  placed  upon  this  beam,  and 
18  shot  over  into  a  volcano  which  used  to  exist  below.  Tra- 
ion  states  that  a  holy  man  had  been  doomed  to  suffer  this 
oishment,  but  was  miraculously  saved  from  hurt  by  the 
cano  being  suddenly  converted  into  a  pool  of  water,  so 
t  he  fell  into  it  uninjured.  The  pool  is  now  a  tank  of 
^r,  enclosed  by  cut-stone,  which  ornaments  the  front  of  a 
y  pretty  mosque  of  unusual  sanctity.  There  are  fish  in 
tank  so  tame  that  they  swim  after  anyone  who  approaches, 
the  sake  of  food,  which  is  frequently  given  to  them, 
ristian  strangers  are  allowed  to  walk  by  its  side,  but  not 
it,  83  I  discovered  from  having  excited  some  indignation 
sitting  down  to  sketch  the  mosque :  an  old  Turk  came  up 
ne,  and  requested  me  to  move  away, 
hfah  was  the  famous  Emessa  of  the  time  of  the  Crusaders. 

E  E  2 


420 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTC0URT8  SECOND  JOURNEY. 


APPX.     It  is  biiilt  of  stone  chiefly,  ami  looks  well  at  a  distance;  but 
_      •    ^  within  it  is  poor,  deserted,  and  dirty.     Not  long  since,  at  the 
Th«  town     beginning  of  the  present  Suhan's  reign,  it  was  a  place  of 
^  importance,  full  of  janissaries,  and  vying  with  Daniascns  Id 

Mahomedan  bigotry.  The  destruction  of  the  janissaries 
however,  and  the  change  in  the  system  of  Turkish  govern- 
ment, has,  like  that  in  the  government  of  the  Pacha  d 
Egypt,  put  an  end  to  religious  persecution.  Europeans,  aod 
even  native  Christians,  enjoy  some  relaxation  from  former 
ill-treatment. 
An  in-  Whilst    I   was   at   Orfah,   an   instance   occurred  of  how 

Turkish  much  matters  had  changed  at  Constantinople,  and  hov 
lilx-rality.  jjj^j.^j  ^  Iggg^jn  was  now  to  be  taught  the  arrogant  Turks  of 
this  place.  A  regiment  of  cavalry  fresh  from  .Stamhoni 
marched  into  Orfah ;  the  barracks  had  to  be  furnished  witk 
mats  for  the  soldiers  to  sleep  upon,  as  was  customary.  The 
.  Christians  were  applied  to,  and  required  to  furnish  the  quia- 
tity  wanted;  but  amongst  them  all  they  could  not  find 
enough,  except  by  ginng  up  those  upon  which  they  dcpl 
themselves.  This  the  governor  insisted  they  shoidd  do— in 
short,  provide  them  they  must,  somehow  or  other ;  but  thej, 
in  despair,  referred  to  the  colonel  of  the  new  regiment,  who, 
having  learnt  more  liberality  at  Stamljoul  than  was  commoB 
at  Orfah,  and  less  veneration  for  a  mosque,  ordered  that  the 
Christians  should  be  spared,  and  the  complement  made  up 
either  from  the  Turks  or  the  mosques.  The  Turks  were 
horror-struck,  and  gave  none,  so  the  colonel  sent  his  soldien 
to  tlie  mo8(jues  to  provide  themselves. 

The  baziuirs  are  better  built  and  l)etter  supplied  thai 
would  1)€  exj)ected  from  the  general  appearance  of  the  plac^: 
indeed,  though  not  so  extensive,  they  are  better  kept,  better 
built  and  ordered,  than  those  at  Damascus. 

We  took  up  our  quarters  at  the  Armenian  Convent,  where 
Lieutenant  Lynch,  of  the  Expedition,  and  his  brother  weie 
already  lodged.  One  room  was  given  to  us  within  the  ck* 
of  the  church,  which  until  our  arrival  was  a  school ;  but  «e 
partook  of  Lieutenant  Lynch's  fare,  supplied  for  him  by  the 
Bishop,  in  wliose  house  he  had  qmirters.  His  home,  the 
church,  and  our  room  were  all  enclosed  within  a  wall  ha?ii)| 
at  the  entrance  an  arched  gatehouse. 


Bazaars  of 
Orfah. 


Tho 

Armenian 

Convent. 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCJOURT'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  421 

Lieutenant  Lynch  was  negotiating  for  camels,  hoping  that,     APPX. 
if  they  were  engaged  within  the  territory  of  the  Sultan,  the 


Egyptian  authorities  would  not  interfere  with  them,  and  we  NegoHa- 
might  in  that  way  be  able  to  transport  our  stores  to  the  great  ^^ig^' 
river.     But  the  camels  could  carry  only  a  portion  of  the 
stores;  and  after-experience  proved  that  oxen,  horses,  men, 
and  waggons  would  all  be  required   to   convey  the   heavy 
tx>iler8  and  parts  of  the  steam-engines. 

Leaving  Lieutenant  Lynch  to  continue  his  business,  we 
pursued  our  journey  to  Diyarbekr.  The  first  day's  journey 
was  chiefly  over  the  desert,  with  here  and  there  a  few  scat- 
tered black  tents,  until  about  midday,  when  we  fell  in  with 

immense  encampment  of  Kurds.     Their  tents  covered  the  Eocamp- 
of  the  country,  and  though  at  first  sight  quite  irregular  Xurda^^ 
in  their  order,  yet  as  we  rode  through  them  we  could  discover 
the  tent  of  Malik  Selim  himself,  the  chief.     Its  size  and  im- 
portance, with  that  too  of  those  around,  indicated  the  dwell- 
ing of  a  great  man  ;  whilst  in  groups — some  on  elevated 
ground,  others  in  the  valleys — we  saw  that  the  smaller  divi- 
lions  were  arranged  round  their  own  Sheikhs,  whose  tents    * 
were  marked  by  the  tall  spear,  with  its  bunch  of  ostrich- 
fiaathers  at  the  head,  stuck  upright  in  the  ground  at  the 
tent-door,  where  also   stood   the  horse  ready-saddled,  and 
picketed  by  his  legs. 

This  encampment  was  under  Malik  Selim,  the  son-in-law  Malik 
>f  the  chief  of  all  the  Kurds  of  that  country,  who,  with  ^^*"' 
lis  immediate  followers,  had  pitched  his  tents  at  no  great 
[istance  oiT.  The  grazing  ground  of  this  powerful  tribe 
extends  southward  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Racca,  and  noilh 
owards  Samsat  The  numbers  included  in  the  encampment 
re  saw  under  Malik  Selim  were  said  to  be  30,000.  Jub  JubAgha. 
igha^  the  father-in-law  and  chief,  had  probably  not  less  with 
lim.  The  Kurds  have  large  flocks  and  herds,  camels  and 
lOTses ;  their  tents  are  large,  and  indicate  riches ;  they  are  a 
rery  important  and  powerful  people,  whose  independence 
lad  been,  as  yet,  scarcely  interrupted  by  the  oflBcers  of  the 
Sultan ;  they  exercised  lordship  over  a  vast  extent  of  country, 
fcud  though  they  owned  the  Sultan  as  their  sovereign,  and  the 
chief  of  their  religion,  it  was  rarely  that  they  could  be  com- 
pelled to  pay  their  share  to  the  public  treasury. 


422 


MAJOR-GENERAL   ESTOOURT*S  SEOOJO)  JOTJKXET. 


APPX. 

IV. 

^"^^^  "I 

CtLTv^r  of 

Reschid 

Pucha. 


KltM^ko  aiid 
lionU. 


i^vrrek. 


But  just  at  this  time  the  tide  was   changing.     Rescbid 
Pacha,   whose   name  is   well  known  in  Europe — the  same 
who  was  sent  to  subdue  the  famous  Ali  Pacha  of  Jannini^ 
and   afterwards   was  employed   in   the  war  with   Bussia— 
had  lately  been  appointed  Pacha  at  Diyarbekr  and  Vizier 
of  Asia   Minor.     He  wajB  a  vigorous  determined  man,  and 
had  already  waged  a   successful  war  against  the  Kurds  to 
the  east  of  Diyarbekr — a  people  not  known,  in  the  Ufe  of 
anyone  living,  to  have  yielded  obedience  to  the  Sultan ;  bat 
he  had  driven  them  from  the  plains,  and  followed  them  t0 
their   mountains,   carrying  artillery   over   parts   consideied 
before  impracticable — burning  their  villages,  grinding  tboee 
he  caught,  till  he  compelled  one  chief  after  another  to  piif 
for  mercy  and  submit.     These  successes  had  frightened  tbe 
Kurds  of  Jub  Agha,  and  at  the  time  we  saw  them  they  were 
in  suspense  to  know  their  fette. 

In  Reschid  Pacha's  councils  there  were  also  apprehensiou 
from  the  character  of  Jub  Agha  himself,  and  the  number  of 
his  tribe.  The  Kurds  were  doubtful  whether  to  submit  or 
not,  whilst  the  Pacha  was  uncertain  how  to  induce  submission 
by  intrigue,  ii^ithout  risking  an  open  war  against  people  who, 
having  no  settled  habitation,  can  move  here  or  there,  advance 
to  fight,  or  retire  into  the  desert  with  equal  ease. 

The  encampment  we  fell  in  with  was  a  fine  sight— so 
exti'usivo,  the  flocks  and  cattle  so  numerous,  and  the  tentf 
so  large.  It  was  remarkable  how  accurately  each  flock 
followed  its  own  shepherd,  and  even  at  the  well,  where  two 
or  three  flocks  were  waiting,  huddled  together,  they  kept 
their  separate  parties  complete,  pressing  close  upon  the  beds 
of  their  own  shepherds.  The  horses  are  also  fine,  somewhat 
larger  than  the  Arabs,  very  handsome  and  powerful.  ThiJ 
<lay  we  cha**^ed  a  wild  sow,  followed  by  a  young  pig,  but 
it  took  to  the  hills  and  beat  us.  In  two  days  we  came 
to  Severek,  a  poor  but  ancient  place.  There  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  castle,  having  a  surrounding  ditch  and  some 
portion  of  the  walls  still  existing. 

From  Severek  we  crossed  a  very  stony  tract,  asct'uding 
into  a  hilly  woodland  of  scattered  trees;  then  descended  into 
an  extensive  plain,  upon  which  were  dotted,  here  and  there, a 
few  groups  of  tenti^  In  those  which  lay  in  our  road  we 
found  ample  hospitality. 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  423 

Next  day,  after  passing  through  a  wild  country  covered     APPX. 
with  trees,  we  came  to  another  valley,  highly  cultivated  and         .  '  _  - 
eery  wide ;  at  the  distance  of  about  a  league  and  a  half  stood  Approach 
Diyarbekr.    As  we  approached,  we  found  it  to  be  surrounded  ^^^^"^ 
by  a  high  wall,  in  tolerably  good  repair,  with  towers  at  about 
ULZty  paces  apart,  and  a  ditch. 

At  the  gate  we  had  to  wait  whilst  our  dragoman  rode  on  to 
the  governor  to  ask  for  quarters.  It  was  an  hour  before  he 
returned,  when  with  him  came  two  janissaries  abreast,  fol- 
lowed by  the  janissary-in-chief;  these  preceded  us  through 
the  most  public  parts  of  the  city,  creating  so  much  noise,  and 
causing  so  grand  an  effect,  that  all  the  people  in  the  bazaars 
■tood  up  as  we  passed. 

The  house  which  had  been  fixed  upon  was  that  of  a  Chris-  Our  host. 
tian,  a  rich  man,  who  treated  us  with  overwhelming  con- 
sideration. He  considered  it  his  duty  always  to  be  with  us, 
and  even  asked  permission  one  evening  to  accept  an  invita- 
tion out,  which  he  could  not  bring  himself  to  do  without 
nany  apologies. 

In  the  evening  we  had  supper,  preceded  and  followed  by  A  Persiuo 
tea  instead  of  coffee — a  practice  common  in  Persia.  It  was  ^^^^^' 
aenred  in  the  same  little  cups  as  are  usual  for  coffee,  and 
irithout  sugar  or  cream.  After  supper  two  musicians  were 
introduced,  whose  instruments  were  a  long-handled  guitar, 
with  a  small  hollow  for  the  sound — I  believe  a  dulcimer. 
LJpon  these  they  played,  accompanying  their  voices.  An  at- 
endant  stood  by  to  hand  round  tiny  cups  of  spirits  from 
inie  to  time.  As  the  spirits  were  introduced  the  voices  were 
tdaed,  and  as  they  grew  louder  the  old  Christian's  heart  ex- 
panded. He  was  delighted,  encouraged  the  musicians  to  still 
freater  efforts,  and  rewarded  them  again  and  again  with 
pirits.     Every  evening  was  the  same. 

Upon  paying  a  visit  to  the  governor,  we  found  him  seated 
ipon  an  open  divan  overlooking  the  Tigris.  Diyarbekr  is  a  Descrip- 
•ectangular  enclosure,  of  which  three  sides  are  towards  the  ^?'*  ^^ 
)lain,  and  the  fourth  is  along  the  top  of  the  high  bank  of 
Jie  valley  of  the  Tigris,  which  flows  immediately  below. 
Upon  this  face  is  the  castle,  the  residence  of  the  pjicha 
ukI  governor.  The  pacha  was  away  upon  his  expedition 
Uy  tame  the  Kurds,  but  the  governor  received  us  with  great 


;*-4  llAJ0K-GE3fEK-IL  ESTOMRT's  SECOND  JOURNEY. 

*~.^       •:.:.!"/.     A-i  u?*j.»!.  he  «i:J  :iil  he  conUl  t«»  detain  u>.  lut in 

^  " :'  '.r  :iv*  w^  sct  •:•(?  ajain. 

Th-?  TLrr.i  ar  KvarWkr  is  shallow  enomrh  to  t'jrd  in  the 
'  V  *:AV  I..  :LvUj:h  i:  is  det-p  in  the  spring.  At  this  time  it 
*-i^»  <:11  ll^t  't-"  'iecnrisizig ;  it  was  of  a  reddish  colour,  juid 
:.'.  :::: -  i :y  :■;  le  u&exi  f.T  l«arhing. 

We  cr.ccei  ihe  river  bv  a  stone  bridge  of  nn  ancient  date, 

11.  T-ry  g'-:^  nfpair.  a  rout  half  a  league  b^low  the  place: 

i^i    ic-3    r>ie   over   p'.a:n-o -iintry,   partly   cultivateti,  l.it 

V  ..■  :...rt  gtC-rraHy  pastiii>?.     V-.iliges  were  rare,  rhoii^'h  the? 

'—^^        wr.-t  r^.:  rl:L  »xvas:«>na!Iy.     Their  character  res^r ml »Ied  wliat 

r.  :^ct>rt — pr-.-r  ill -favoured  mud  tenement^.  The 
nz-.-i  very  rich,  with  a  deep  alluvuil  s»..il.  The 
ir-  :!c  »rre  dir-trei::  iTM^zn  those  to  the  wes^t  of  the  Tii:ri>: 
::r:^*r  "s-rr  A  m1!.  str'n^.  wtll-formevl  race,  with  a  ste.idv  fve 
.^.i.":  i:. :T>fi:-.:rL.t  I.<»k-  In  drt^s  thev  resembU-d  tlem— a 
'  7^"  -:-.r:  i:T«r-  to  the  ankles,  pendent  sleeves  to  near  the 
^  M-  u  lirg«r  rrd  V*»:s^  a:.d  a  tiir r<ui  up^n-  tlie  head. 
Mf^c^rt .:.  I-  i  Liv  vi,.:  j.  Lili  we  oir^ie  to  MesskiTein,  ch:»se  under  a  hv^i 
:«  ^:j.::i;cs  ri-igv.  I:  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  bel^npiij: 
:  z'z.'*  *. trier  .iivs  ci  the  o.untrv,  and  is  surrounde^i  bv  wa'is 
:' .-.:--:  ii^,  pur  tc-gech'irr  with  great  care.  Tlie  interior  is  hot 
^  r-;:r.  *Inx^  witho-^:  inhabitants.  Close  t.^  it  we  saw  the 
r\:r.  j^r.s  ■.  f  g%r\iens^  omanienteii  with  stone  conduits  for  water. 
••":  xL  d:wcU  in  fivm  a  i^eautiful  clear  spring.  A  few  shrul-:? 
- :  -:  fcv::rr\r :  &cvut,  srLii  looking  fresh  and  pretty. 

Kr."u  Mcafe-rt'in  me  immed:;Ue!v  ascendeil  a  hiirh  rvkv 

-  'j^,  r*.ir:   vt    a  principal  chain  which.  encl«*sing  a  larvre 

-;v'..x  ::  rjk:--cv>'inurv,  extends  tr^?m  the  Tisrris  far  a^K-ve  Di- 

\jLr-.nkr.  szd  r^eaches  a^rain  to  the  Tiirris  south  of  Mess«w.n. 

I  '.cT  ::::>  *^r  rv.\!e  Ut  aiwut  an  hour,  when  we  came  to  il:e 

^      -     -    -■  v-^y.  ■•."jo?  '-f  F\rha&i.  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  having:  irtr- 

'  rs  i::i  c.,!::v:3k:i.n  in  the  hollow.     Here  we  slept  in  the 

■.:?<*  -.f  a  I  LrlsOaii.  who  was  in  great  anxiety  about  liis  tate 

Aiid  :La:   «.•:  the  village.      Fano,  one  of  the  chiefs   of  the 

K*..:  is.  si:.d  :he  only  oce  still  in  arms,  had  lived  there.     Hi> 

.  *..>< .  :v.  TV  vvnsideraWe  than  usual,  had  Iven  burnt  and  lio- 

-•:  \  vi  *:\  :rx^  P.%*.S  a,  ;u;.i  the  villagers  drea*.le*l  ]i«»w  fir  tb»v 

^oM'i  U   :l'..i«W  t.^  Mit^Vr  with  their  fornur  lord.     WV  were 

t!t-a:«\i  w/.h  great  h<.>>pit^ity  and  attention^  under  the  iniprc>- 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURTS  SECONT)  JOURNEY.  425 

sion  that  we  should  have  influeiirc  with  the  Pacha,  and  also     APPX. 

IV 
from  an  extravagaut  idea,  wliicli  ha<l  spread  throiiirli  almost  > r^ — - 


every  part  of  the  country  where  we  had  hoon,  tliat  we  were 
come  to  take  posse^i^ion  of  it,  and  thus  accomplish  their  tradi- 
tion, that  the  Turks  shall  be  subdued  by  a  Knro])ean  Power,  Turkish 
and  the  whole  country  become  Christian.    This  expectation  is  ^^^  ^^t 
entertained  by  Turks  as  well  as  Christians.  'J'he  Turks  believe  tion. 
it  to  be  so  decreed,  and  arc  content ;  the  Christians  hope  for 
it^  and  anxiously  look  to  every  event  they  can  construe  into 
a  sign  of  the  coming  change.     Our  arrival  in  tliis  country 
had  excited  these  long-cherished  desires,  and  to  it  we  were 
indebted,  I  believe,  for  some  of  the  overstrained  attention 
we  received. 

Ftom  T'erhand  the  country  was  again  rocky  and  moiuitain- 
oiis  for  two  hours,  when  we  descended  at  the  gorge  of  a  val- 
ley to  the  village  of  Zozee ;  it  is  built  on  the  side  i>f  the  hill,  Zoz<.^■. 
clora  to  a  remarkable  perpendicular  cleft  in  the  rock,  tlirough 
which  a  river  flows:  it  is  a  curious  and  very  picturesque 
spot.  The  water  is  deep  and  clear,  about  eighty  yards  broad ; 
on  the  other  side,  the  left  bank,  is  a  valley  of  iine  pcosture, 
with  a  grove  of  olive-trees,  under  which  tlie  Pacha  was  en-  Tho 
camped  with  all  his  infantry  and  artillery.  We  took  up  our  ^'^^^^ ** 
station  upbn  a  given  spot  close  to  the  village,  and  the  next 
morning  forded  the  river  at  a  difficult  place  to  visit  the  Pacha. 
We  found  him  sitting  imder  a  common  tent,  surrounded  by 
his  officers;  the  infantry  harl  piled  their  arms  in  a  large 
square  before  him,  and  two  pieces  of  artillery  were  alongside, 
protected  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun  by  bouglis  of 
trees  spread  over  them,  and  we  wiw  that  the  men  were  em- 
ployed in  cutting  branches  and  boughs  to  cover  the  arms  of 
the  infantry;  everywhere  they  were  to  be  seen  dragging  their 
Hpoils  from  the  neighbouring  groves. 

The  Pacha  had  a  very  handsome  intelligent  countenance, 
with  a  white  beard,  and  fully  bearing  out  his  cliaracter  for 
activity,  boldness,  and  ability.  I  presented  to  him  the  Thr 
firman  of  the  Sultan,  which  he  immediately  put  to  his  jip,,!*,"" 
head,  in  token  of  his  submission  to  his  m:u^t(!r's  will.  It 
was  then  read  to  him,  and  we  ctmversed  a  short  time;  Imt 
I  coufd  perceive  lie  did  not  c(Uiiprehen<l  our  Kxpedilion, 
and  very  much    fearetl    to   compromise  himself.      He  got 


i 


42C  MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND  JOURNEY. 

APPX.     itupatient  with  the  TurkiBh  of   my  dragoman^  which  was 


IV 


^  nut  goody  and  sounded  disagreeably  to  him,  and  therefore 
he  made  him  speak  Arabic,  having  that  translated  to  him  by 
an  officer  of  his  own.  At  length  he  became  more  impatient, 
and  finding  a  fitting  moment,  he  made  his  salaam,  and  slipped 
out  through  the  back  of  the  tent  to  one  more  private  in  the 
rear.  I,  however,  vras  not  satisfied  to  allow  him  so  to  escape 
without  giving  some  answer  to  my  demand  of  assistance,  and 
therefore  I  named  an  hour  in  the  afternoon,  after  the  mid- 
day rest,  for  another  visit.  Wlien  the  time  came,  I  fomid 
him,  as  before,  perfectly  civil,  but  anxious  to  put  the  matter 
aside,  and  pledge  himself  to  nothing.  However,  though  be 
'"^r^K^  w  ould  not  promise  to  furnish  an  armed  protection  for  us  at 
Pacha.  Beles,  he  said  he  was  upon  the  point  of  marching  into  that 
country,  and  then  would  arrange  something  to  ensure  safety 
to  our  establishment  and  stores ;  in  the  meantime,  he  gave  me 
a  *^  boyardhi,*  or  order,  to  the  governors  and  all  officers  under 
him.,  to  assist  us  in  every  way.  These  orders  are  sometimes  at- 
tended to,  and  sometimes  not :  it  is  said  that  those  to  whom 
they  are  addressed  have  private  means  of  ascertaining  how 
far  it  is  desired  by  the  chief  that  they  should  be  obeyed,  or 
whether  they  have  not  been  given  to  get  rid  of  importunity, 
or  to  satisfy  a  demand  it  may  not  be  politic  to  refuse.  This 
I  knew,  and  therefore  was  but  little  contented  with  what  I 
had  been  able  to  effect ;  however,  I  could  get  nothing  fur- 
r»i!"™k^  ther,  and  therefore  retraced  my  steps  towards  Diyarbekr; 
there  our  Christian  friend  received  us  again  under  his  hos- 
pitable roof.  The  same  scenes  were  renewed  as  on  our  for- 
mer visit — the  same  attention  to  us,  the  same  loud  singing, 
and  the  same  drinking.  We  had  been  absent  six  days,  yet 
oven  in  that  short  time  the  Tigris  had  materially  fallen ;  so 
uuu  h  so  that  we  found  no  difficulty  in  fording  it  upon  horse- 
I  Kick  just  below  the  town — indeed,  we  even  saw  a  donkey 
fording  near  the  same  place. 

On  June  7  we  left  Diyarbekr,  rode  by  the  route  we  had 
o<»uie  thither,  visited  the  same  t«nts,  and  saw  the  same  people. 
At  the  eueauipment  where  we  had  slept  the  old  man  i»*a8 
al>Kont,  but  hiji  daughter  came  out  to  greet  us,  and  welcome 
us  to  our  former  seats  in  her  tatlier's  tent.  In  the  country 
the  women  arc  not  bo  cai*eful  to  hide  themselves ;  indeed,  it 


HAJOS-GENEBAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND  JOURNEY.  427 

would  be  impossible  to  conduct  the  operations  done  by  the     APPX. 
women,  and  maintain  the  seclusion  of  the  towns.    As  we  were   * r^ — ' 


crossing  a  plain  already  mentioned,  with  clusters  of  tent«  here  A  native 
and  there,  I  saw  for  the  first  time  in  my  life  a  target  in  actual  ^'^®*- 
use ;  it  was  of  a  small  size,  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  made  of 
buffalo  hide,  rather  convex,  strengthened  by  strips  of  brass 
and  nails,  ornamented  with  red  paint,  and  a  tuft  of  ostrich- 
feathers  in  the  centre. 

According  to  the  general  practice,  we  were  conducted  from  Arab 
one  encampment  to  another,  and  furnished  with  fresh  horses  **^P*tal>*y 
at  each,  and,  whenever  we  allowed  it,  with  refreshment ;  but 
at  one  of  the  places  to  which  we  came,  the  people  had  been 
so  tired  out  by  the  number  of  rapacious  travellers  that  they 
were  not  inclined  to  receive  us ;  but  so  careful  are  they  of 
their  character  for  hospitality  to  strangers,  that  when,  after 
many  excuses  and  much  wrangling  with  the  people  who  had 
brought  us  to  them,  I  determined  to  walk  on  on  foot,  and 
actually  set  out  to  do  so,  an  old  man  ran  after  me,  kissed  my 
beard  repeatedly,  and  begged  me  not  to  bring  discredit  upon 
his  tribe. 

After  leaving  Severek,  we  fell  in  with  a  part  of  the  large  Tribe  of 
tribe   of  Jub  Agha.      They   were   anxious  to   know   about     "   ^  "• 
Reschid  Pacha — where  he  was,  and  what  he  was  doing,  and 
whether  he  spoke  of  coming  towards  them.     They  called 
upon  the  muleteer  with  us  to  tell  the  news  of  Severek,  and 
at  once  showed  how  little  cordiality  they  had  with  the  towns- 
people, by  addressing  the  man  with,  '  Dog,  son  of  a  dog ! 
whose    dog    are  you?' — the   poor   man    replying  with    all 
humility  to  their  insulting  questions,  as  if  addressed  in  the 
civilest  language   in  the   world.      These  Kurds   had    large  Tenui  of 
handsome  black  tents,  supported  by  long  poles.     They  are  ^^^  Kw»^- 
put  together  in  a  simple  manner.     Each  cloth  reaches  from 
end  to  end,  and  ih  nearly  a  yard  and  a  half  wide :  two  cloths 
are   sewn  together  to  make  one  breadth  ;  each  breadth  is 
furnished  down  itfi  edges  with  loops  and  toggles,  so  that  the 
breadth  of  the  tent  may  be  extended  at  pleasure,  by  looping 
on  as  many  breadths  as  are  required.    It  seems  to  be  done 
precisely  in  the  manner  described  in  the  Bible,  in  the  thirty- 
iixth  chapter  of  Exodus,  which  explains  how  the  curtains  of 
the  Tabernaclft  were  coupled  together  by  loops  and  taches 


428  MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND   JOURNEY. 

APPX.     down  the  edges.     Every  year  a  fresh  cloth  is  made  by  the 
^- — r^ — '    women,  and  added,  and  the  oldest  is  removed ;  thus,  by  a 
constant  succession,  the  tent  is  kept  in  repair  without  much 
trouble.      The   elders   with    whom   we   sat   were   dignified 
personages,  of  good  manners,  with  a  full  confidence  in  their 
own  importance ;  they  wore  remarkably  large  turbans,  made 
of  folds  of  white  linen  wound  up  to  an  unusual  height  and 
grandeur,  and  bound  together  by  a  diagonal  black  handker- 
chief. 
TheBisIioD       ^^  Orfah  we  took  up  our  quarters,  as  before,  at  the  convent 
of  Orfah.      The  Bishop  paid  us  a  visit :  our  conversation  turned  upon  the 
condition    of  the  Christian  population;   he  told  us  it  was 
about  two  years  since  better  times  had  begun  with  tliem; 
previous  to  that,  the  town  was  full  of  proud  &natic  janis- 
saries, whose  tyranny  was  beyond  endurance.     They  would 
come  in  a  party  to  the  convent-gate,  demand  admittance, 
which  could  not   be  denied  them,  require  a  supper,  even 
money  sometimes,  and  having  got  all  they  asked,  for  pure 
sport  they  would  set  upon  the  humbled  Christians  and  beat 
State  of       them.     With  such  treatment  awaiting  every  Christian  that  is 
If*  ^lu **    ^^^9  i^  is  surprising  that  young  men  should  not  have  emi- 
Orfah.         grated,  to  seek  a  better  lot  under  a  juster  government ;  but 
the  reply  to  such  a  question  was,  *  What  could  we  do  ?    We 
hope  for  better  times,  and  trust  in  God.'     For  the  last  two 
years  their  fate  has  been  better,  but  still  they  suffer  much 
cruelty   and   injustice.     This  better  condition   b^;an  with 
Careir  of     Maho  Bey,  a  native  of  Orfah,  who  having  resided  near  Ibrahim 
^*  Pacha,  and  his  father,  Mehemet  Ali,  had  imbibed  the  liberal 
ideas  which  have  done  so  much  credit  to  those  extraordinary 
men.     Orfah  fell  by  the  right  of  conquest  to  Mehemet  Ali, 
but  by  the  treaty  of  peace  between  the  Sultan  and  the  Pacha 
of  Egypt  Kfter  the  Battle  of  Komah,  it  was  to  be  restored  to 
the  former;  yet  the  Pacha  retained  possession  of  it,  until 
France  and  England  interfered,  and  compelled  him  to  fulfil 
the  terms  of  the  treaty.     But  the  reign  of  the  janissaries  has 
passed  away,  and  though  Maho  Bey  is  gone,  yet  the  poor 
Christians  still  enjoy  some  of  the  better  treatment  which  they 
received  under  him. 

On  Sunday,  June  14,  we  returned  to  Birejik,  but  so  late 
that  the  gates  were  shut ;    however,  entrance  was  soon  ob- 


MAJOR-GENERAL  ESTCOURT'S  SECOND   JOURNEY.  429 

tained  by  means  of  a  small  bribe,  tendered  by  our  drago-     APPX. 
man.  > . *  -^ 


June  16. — We  left  Biiejik,  meaning  to  clear  the  road  to  Leave 
Suedia,  by  which  our  stores  were  to  be  transported.  It  is  ^^i'^' 
right,  when  speaking  of  a  road,  to  explain  that  no  such 
thing  exists  in  the  country  beyond  a  mere  horse-track. 
There  are  no  enclosures  except  near  the  towns ;  therefore  the 
whole  country  is  open,  and,  avoiding  the  cultivated  ground, 
may  be  traversed  in  any  direction. 

June  17. — At  the  tents  of  Chammoli  it  was  necessary  to  Chammoli. 
remove  some  large  stones,  and  workmen  were  required  from 
the  Sheikh,  to  be  ready  at  daybreak  the  following  morning. 

June  1 8. — Of  course  the  men  were  not  ready ;  but  by  being 
sometimes  in  a  passion,  and  sometimes  in  good  humour,  as 
the  case  required,  we  at  length  obtained  them;  and  the  Clearing 
stones  were  removed.  In  this  way  we  contrived  to  clear  the 
line  of  its  chief  difficulties,  as  far  as  Gachmool,  near  Azass, 
about  halfway  between  Aleppo  and  Birejik. 

June  19. — We  rode  to  Aleppo  from  Grachmool. 

June  20. — Introduced  to  Mr.  Werry,  the  new  British  consul 
lately  arrived  from  Smyrna. 

June  21. — Breakfasted  by  appointment  with  Jusuph,  Mr.  Breakfast 
Kilby's  dragoman :  his  family  are  remarkable  for  their  neatness  J^^^jj 
and  cleanliness.   He  told  me  he  had  but  one  servant,  a  female; 
that  his  family  performed  all  domestic  operations :  the  con- 
sequence was  perfect  order,  cleanliness,  comfort,  and  economy. 
These  occupations  did  not,  however,  take  from  the  delicacy 
and  pretty  manners  of  his  wife  and  daughters.     They  pre- 
sented pipes  and    nargilehs,  prepared  by  themselves,  with 
coffee,  sherbet,  and  the  other  pleasant  luxuries  with  which  a 
stranger  is  welcomed ;  sometimes  they  sat  down  with  us  to 
talk,  and  sometimes  were  busy  in  serving  the  party,  but  all  Brago- 
so  quietly,  and  without  effort,  that  it  did  not  the  least  inter-  fomiiy  in 
fere  with  the  conversation,  or  occasion  the  least  distress,  from  Aleppo, 
over-politeness.    The  manners  of  all  the  family  were  remark- 
ably good,  but,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  the  daughters  could 
neither  read  nor  write.     The  mother  was  better  educated ; 
she  could  read  and  write  Arabic,  and  now  latterly  had  made 
some  effort  to  gain  a  knowledge  of  French.     Jusuph  himself 
was  better  taught  than  most  people  in  the  country,  yet  he 


CAfTJLiy   LTJCes   MIS8105  TO  TOE   ARABS. 


APPENDIX   V, 

15?*  5:r  •  ?  A  P^CK   FROM   BIR   TO  EL-DEIK  (1836V 
3\  :a?Ta3   HiNKY   BU>S5E  LYNCH.  CJB,,  KL^. 

I^  .-  'n3i.-JLi'>f  wrri  tfce  instructions  jnven  bv  the  British 
•>  ^-•-LTufa':  •  •  •'•  v;c*l  Cli«sceT,that  some  officers  should  viat 
'*»«'«*  T^r.  ,:-^ir  !•  GUirc  Aid  cuiti rating  tribes  resdding  on  tbe 
iT,^"^'       :azs<    i:  "ir^  ^"^^^^  rlTT?r,  a^  well  as  those  pasturing  in  the 


2'tih.i^    r  S-iifcT-  lad  -.'^  2i:r.':c;cate  to  them  our  intention 

-ii-^^-^  •±«*  r.T«r,  ::  riaktrj  arran^ments  for  depots  of 

.— .kT,"*  a..  12*:  w^iiT^fT^  r^.'»Ti>£rMi5  might  be  required  during 

ur  >'^-^':T  :c  r!»f  Eiptnres:  also  to  ascertain  the  strength 

.:  *i«-  ■•  w-  •■s^  :r-/:es^  iz-i  :.:■  wrar  probable  extent  we  could 

:•.  '■  -i^f  1  "rsrc^f-'T  >?e-li:::r  wrh  them  : 

*K^^  r  H     (F'.t;*>  ?*:'"nwt^i  f  r  tLi*  duty  were  Henry  B.  Lynch, 

^'*^       ',»?■■' r«i*ki:*    li'iiibs    XiTT :     A.    A.    Staunton,   afterwards 

^'w-*^-       fc*:>Giar-iur^*c»  Kjyil  Ar:il!ery :   Mr,  Elliot,  interpreter; 

ia»:  lj^a:«jL:i:  K  :*r:  Lynch,  of  the  E.LCa's  Service,  idw 

i  ■:«i7  '  k*ir.:«r*?e  2i*  iern>=5^      It  was  on  the  evening  of 

<-r.'!::":^r  \  l>o^^^  trjkT  t^e  party  left  the  little  encamp- 

Tt-.-z:  s^rsiTr*"   :c  tr^  r!^:  rork  of  the  river  a  mile  below 

b^:  -.     >\^i:  WAS  5«ri^ted  AS  the  dttess  time  to  commence  the 

•  .iiT  •  r^r^  \^  lit  el  V  v  firij^.ie  the  horses,  which  were  to 

rr  %.-^-  : :  --.  •:c^  :hi?  «bo!e  Kumrv.    The  weather  during  the 

•jv  "^Ls  -it.-eruCT  h-o-t*  aE»l  the  cirfits  intenselv  cold.   On 

:"  ;  5tv*  c-i  iiT  w*  r«icii^i  Orfah,  a  pachalic  of  considerable 

:  vi^  rrA:i*.'>:'.     Hrrt  it  wis  siivisable  t.^  make  arrangements 

K.ac  tf  A-  :  ■:  i\k:'?  :o  Rwo^k  wj^s  one  untn^lden.  and  to  the  travel- 

!C»x-i.  ,.  •;•::<':"  *T, ::  «as  rh-e  jre:*:  wish  of  our  party  to  have&)me 

♦r:?v.rr.VA!  r^rs^'^c  i'^  r.*  :he  d'>an  of  tbe  Pacha  t^  accompanj 
u<  A'i  ttwr  .vi  R*ix*:«w  Ar..;  to  intrvduce  us  to  thi-  cultivating 
rrlx*  r'.^t  mi^.i  tr.en  !.Appen  to  l*e  ocoupving  the  great 
I^Iaiu  or"  SinJAT.  After  much  intrigue  fn>m  tlie  numerous 
hoary*bear\ied  a«ivi?<Ts  of  the  Pacha,  ve  obtained  two  Govern- 


CAPTAIN  LYNCH'S  MISSION  TO  THE  ARABS.  438 

ment  cowasses  and  an  old  moolah,  who  undertook  to  ensure  a     APPX. 
fiE^vourable  reception  for  us  as  far  as  fiacca.  •  _. 


Having  made  all  the  requisite  preparations,  we   started  Departure 
from  Orfah  at  3  p.m.      The  resting-place  proposed  for  the  5^^ 
night  was  Haran,  celebrated  in  Sacred  History  as  the  birth- 
place of  Abraham,  and  in  classic  lore  renowned  for  the  death  of 
Crassus.    It  is  distant  from  Orfah  eight  to  ten  hours.    During 
our  progress  across  the  plain  we  had  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing the  eflfects  of  the  well-judged  policy  of  Reschid  Pacha,  Policy  of 
the  Emir  Nizam  of  the  Sultan ;  he  had  compelled  many  of  pacha. 
the  lawless  wanderers  that  infest  the  frontier  of  a  disputed 
territory  to  fix  themselves  in  small  villages,  and  to  become 
cultivators,  subject  to  laws,  Ac     We  skirted  the  base  of  a 
low  range  of  hills  composed  of  impure  limestone,  called  the 
Mountains  of  Nimrod,  containing  within  the  range  a  well, 
revered  by  the  Armenians  as  that  in  which  Job  performed  his 
first  ablutions  after  his  afflictions. 

It  was  midnight  when  we  arrived  at  Hardn.  On  approaching  Arrival  at 
it  we  passed  over  the  dried  beds  of  many  irrigatingcanals,  point-  Haran. 
ing  out  how  extensively  cultivation  was  once  carried  on  in  this 
now  bumt-up  plain.     These  canals  must  have  formerly  been 
supplied  by  the  streamlets  of  the  El-Belik,  a  river  distant  from 
Haran  three  or  four  hours,  and  which,  after  a  circuitous 
course,  pours  its  waters  into  the  Euphrates  below  fiacca.   We 
could  discern  the  dark  citadel  for  some  time  before  we  reached  The 
the  fosse  and  strong  walls  which  surround  the  elevated  ground  *^^®^- 
on  which  the  ancient  castle  stood.     Its  gloomy  walls  were 
composed  of  large  basaltic   blocks,   and  the  archways  and 
towers  are  still  perfect.     The  remains  of  the  ancient  city  are  Ancient 
easily  traceable,  stretching  under  the  castle.     The  buildings  r^^i^ins- 
have  been  laid  out  at  right-angles ;  many  shattered  portions 
of  pillars  lay  scattered  through  the  ruins,  chiefly  composed  of 
marble  and  Egyptian  porphyry.  Our  approach  was  announced 
by  the  clamorous  greeting  of  numerous  troops  of  dogs,  which 
issued  from  the  small  huts  here  occupied  by  the  poorer  classes 
of  cultivating  Arabs.     The  construction  of  the  huts  was  novel 
to  us,  being  formed  after  the  fashion  of  beehives,  dome-shaped  ; 
this  arises  from  the  deficiency  of  wood  in  this  district,  the  roof 
supporting  itself  without  rafters.     The  cattle  in  the  morning  ''?!,^®^^ 
assembled  round  the  Well  of  Abraham  even  as  they  did  in  ham. 

F  F 


434  CAPTAIN  LTNCH'S  mission  to  the  ARABS. 

AVVX,     the  days  of  the  Patriarch.     The  numerous  troughs  were  sup- 

, ^* ,  plied  with  water  by  the  women,  which  did  not  fail  to  recall 

the  beautiful  descriptions  of  such  scenes  in  Scripture. 
ThoMeUe-       We  were  waited  upon  iu  the  morning  by  messengers  from 
KuniB.        Eiouaga,the  powerful  sheikh  of  the  Melle-Kurds,  who,  with  his 
flocks  and  herds,  was  consuming  the  scanty  herbage  before  tbe 
troops  of  Reachid  Pacha,  who  wished  to  scare  the  vacillating 
chiefs  that  occupied  the  frontier  country.    We  received  a  press- 
ing invitation  to  make  his  tents  our  own,  but  this  we  declined, 
as  we  were  fully  aware  that  his  allegiance  to  the  Porte  was  of 
a  very  dubious  nature.     After  we  left  Haran  we  proceeded  to 
visit  the  sheikh  of  the  Guiess  tribe ;  we  found  his  tents  occa- 
pying  both  banks  of  the  stream  of  the  El-Belik. 
Sheikh  of        The  Sheikh  received  us  with  much  cordiality.  We  expUioed 
iheGueM  ^^  y^^^  ^y^^  nature  of  our  joumey :  he  had  previously  heard  of 
our  occupation  at  Bir,  and  of  our  intention  of  navigating  the 
river ;  he  did  not  at  all  relish  the  idea  of  our  resolution  of  viat* 
ing  the  tribes  as  far  as  Deir.    He  stated  that  they  neitherwooU 
credit  our  assertions,  nor  comprehend  our  designs ;  that  thej 
were  lawless,  and  addicted  to  plunder  a  small  band  such  ai 
our  party  then  consisted  of.     We  made  him  smile  when  to 
said  our  great  Sheikh  in  England  had  given  his  orders,  aad 
that  to  hear  was  to  obey.     As  he  could  not  dissuade  us  froB 
our  purpose,  he  strongly  insisted  upon  the  propriety  of  our 
leaving  the  greater  portion  of  our  baggage  under  his  care  in 
case  of  being  assailed  and  stripped,  that  we  might  have  some- 
thing to  fall  back  upon,  which  proposal  appeared  unnecesaij 
to  us.     After  a  night^s  sojourn  in  his  tents,  where  we  exp^ 
Anb  rienced  all  the  hospitality  so  liberally  given  to  the  Arab  dia- 

tdHty'  nvcter  in  books  of  fiction,  we  took  our  departure,  previooslj 
presenting  our  host  with  a  sword,  which  we  hoped  would  prove 
a  trusty  recollection  of  his  English  visitors ;  this,  with  a  fev 
accompanying  presents  to  the  women,  placed  us  on  a  firiendlj 
footing  with  the  encampment. 
In  accordance  with  our  instructions,  we  visited  the  tribes  that 
Vint  to  cultivate  around  Racca,  and  from  thence  by  the  streams  of  tbe 
El-Belik  to  the  great  river.  W^e  were  detained  some  daysoo 
the  left  bank  of  the  Euphrates  in  the  vicinity  of  Bacca,  withi 
very  numerous  tribe  of  cultivators,  residing  during  the  summer 
in  booths  formed  of  the  liquorice  plant   We  were  anxious  h^ 


CAPTAIN  LYNCH'8  MISSION  TO   THE  ARABS.  435 

to  form  one  of  our  largest  depots  of  charcoal,  as  the  mulberry,     APPX. 
tamarisk,  and  walnut  trees  were  very  abundant.    With  a  desire  —    /    ^ 
of  creating  a  taste  for  English  manufactures,  we  presented 
liberally,  to  the  numerous  sheikhs  who  visited  us,  Glasgow 
goods  and  Shefl&eld  wares.     We  were  much  gratified  to  find 
that  we  could  barter  extensively  for  provisions  and  fuel. 

The  petty  jealousies  and  broils  which  exist  between  these 
neighbouring  tribes  considerably  interrupted  the  advancement 
of  our  party ;  and  after  having  experienced  one  of  these  sallies, 
to  which  everyone  is  exposed  who  traverses  this  wild  district, 
from  a  plundering  band  of  the  Aniza,  who  were  engaged  in 
a  foray-party  in  the  neighbourhood,  we  reached  Deir. 

We  were  much  surprised,  on  approaching  Deir,  to  find  that  Position 
it  occupied  so  strong  a  position  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  ^  ®"^' 
is  situated  on  the  right  bank,  on  a  high  promontory.  Its  walls 
are  embrasured  as  well  as  the  houses,  which  renders  musketry 
very  decisive.  It  has  been  for  a  long  period  of  time  in  open 
rebellion  against  the  Porte,  as  it  is  stated  that  the  tax  has  not 
been  paid  since  the  time  of  Daoud  Pacha.  The  land-approach 
to  the  city  is  through  a  winding  road,  narrow,  and  protected 
by  the  prickly-pear,  which  would  make  a  very  advantageous 
barrier  against  an  assault  of  cavalry,  the  only  species  of  troops 
of  whose  attacks  they  are  at  all  apprehensive.  The  Sheikh  ^^"^ 
Soliman  received  us  with  much  kindness :  he  said  he  had 
letters  from  the  English  Effendi  at  Bagdad,  Colonel  Taylor, 
giving  directions  for  the  preparation  of  charred  coal  on  an 
extensive  scale ;  he  seemed  fully  to  understand  the  advantage 
tiiat  his  people  would  derive  from  the  great  demand  that 
would  be  made  for  fuel. 

We  were  much  surprised  to  find  Jews  very  numerous  here :  Remnant 
we  also  learnt  that  others  were  dwelling  with  some  tribes  ^^^ 
occupying  the  banks  of  the  Khabour,  the  scene  of  Ezekiel's 
prophecies,  as  well  as  at  Kahab,  the  extreme  boundary  of 
Solomon^s  territories,  which  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Deir. 
In  conversing  with  Sheikh  Soliman,  we  found  him  a  shrewd 
and  intelligent  man ;  he  stated  that  his  tribe  was  very 
numerous,  and  that  it  was  frequently  engaged  with  bands  of 
the  Aniza,  that  come  scouring  the  country  levying  contribu- 
tions on  the  cultivators.  He  said  that  Ibrahim  Pacha,  as  well 
as  the   Porte,  had  each  demanded  taxes  from  him,  and  as 

P  F  s 


43C 


CAPTAIK   LTNCnS   VISSIOX  TO  TDE  .\RABS. 


Conim->- 
Ivir. 


AnUle 
Uad. 


A  Mene  of 
carnage. 


heretofore  neither  of  them  were  able  to  enforce  it,  he  hid 
thus  far  resolved  not  to  pay  either ;  but  that  as  a  messengtf 
had  lately  come  down  from  Ibrahim  Pacha,  demanding  imme- 
diate payment  of  the  tax,  and  that  a«  Ibrahim  had  the  capir 
bility  of  enforcing  it,  he  thought  he  had  better  proceed  with 
us  to  Aleppo,  and  enter  into  terms  with  the  Pacha.  He  pn>- 
pcised  taking  200  spearmen  with  him,  as  a  protection  to  the 
whole  party  against  the  plundering  hordes  of  the  Aniza. 

On  the  morning  proposed  for  our  departure,  we  were  ror- 
pri&ed  to  see  the  city  in  a  tumultuous  state  of  commotion — the 
men  bearing  arms,  and  forming  themselves  into  bands,  the 
women  singing  war-songs.  On  enquiring,  we  found  thatani- 
mour  had  just  reached  that  a  band  of  Aniza  had  fired  one  of 
their  dependent  villages,  and  the  party  then  forming  were  pre- 
paring to  repulse  them.  We  received  invitations  from  eveiy 
side  to  join  them,  to  which  we  acceded,  as  we  were  amiooi 
to  witness  their  rude  mode  of  warfare.  We  proceeded  outrf 
the  city  amidst  the  acclamation  of  its  rabble  population,  and 
never  did  Falstaff  lead  on  a  more  motley  band,  armed  with 
spears,  curveil  scimitars,  long  rifles,  matchlocks,  shidda^ 
and  maces ;  these  they  flourished  in  a  most  grotesque  style. 
In  the  midst  of  their  excitement  some  unhappy  fugitive 
arrived,  liearing  the  intelligence  that  the  troops  that  had  at- 
tacked the  villages  were  the  Egyptian  Bedouins  of  Ibrahim 
Pacha,  who  had  unexpectedly  crossed  the  desert  £roin 
Damascus,  and  come  down  to  enforce  allegiance.  The  scene 
w«as  now  reversed :  our  brave  men-at-arms  returned  to  their 
houses,  and  a  deathlike  stillness  prevailed  through  the  eitj 
instead  of  bustle;  all  were  supplicating  us  to  intercede 
with  the  Egyptian  general.  The  armed  men  fell  back, aod 
a  long  retinue  of  priests  and  sheikhs  accompanied  w  t$ 
suppliants  to  the  burning  villages. 

After  three  hours*  ride,  we  arrived  at  the  scene  of  actioD: 
it  was  a  hideous  carnage.  The  village  was  lai^e,  fortified 
by  mud  walls,  and  the  greater  portion  of  it  in  flames;  * 
sharp  fire  was  still  kept  up  by  the  besieged;  after  a  pro- 
tracted battle,  the  wretched  survivors  attempted  to  escape 
by  the  river,  the  only  outlet  left  to  them.  Here  the 
General  had  placed  a  strong  hody  of  Egyptians,  who  were 
engaged  in  cutting  dovbn  the  fugitives^  as  they  fell  into  their 


CAPTAIN   LYNCH's  MISSION  TO   THE  ARABS.  437 

bands,  without  mercy ;  neither  age  nor  sex  protected  them.     APPX. 
The  object  of  this  severity  was  to  strike  terror,  as  the  Egyp-  ^     ^'  ^ 
tian  had  not  troops  sufficient  to  defend  himself,  were  the 
Arabs  to  have  risen  en  masse.     We  were  enabled  to  negotiate  Oar 
■accessfully  for  our  suppliant  friends,  and  after  a  night  spent  ^T^-°* 
amongst  the  Egyptian  troops  we  proceeded  to  Deir,  where  we 
were  received  by  long  trains  of  women  and  children,  singing 
aoDgs  to  greet  us  on  our  return. 

As  we  had  accomplished  the  great  object  of  our  Expedition, 
in  having  arranged  the  depots  of  charcoal  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  river,  and  having  also  cultivated  a  friendly  feeling  with 
the  Arabs  residing  on  that  side  of  the  Euphrates,  as  well  as 
having  distributed  English  manufactures  amongst  them,  we 
were  now  prepared  to  follow  out  the  rest  of  our  instructions  — 
▼iz.,  to  proceed  up  the  right  bank,  visiting  the  various  tribes, 
as  we  had  done  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.     We  greatly 
reduced  the  number  of  our  difficulties  by  receiving  from  the  'Tuakar^y' 
Egyptian  general  a^tuskarey,'  or  order,  stating  that  he  would  E^^tUin 
require,  by  the  heads  of  sheikhs  of  tribes,  that  we  should  general. 
receive  no  molestation  on  our  return.     This  produced  a  very 
favourable  reception  from  the  cultivators  occupying  the  skirts 
of  the  jungle. 

In  our  conversation  with  the  General,  when  he  expressed 
himself  astonished  that  so  small  a  party  should  have  had 
the  rashness  to  penetrate  so  far  amongst  so  wild  a  race, 
we  mentioned  to  him  the  skirmish  that  we  had  had  at  Zelebi 
(I  believe  that  was  the  name  of  the  place) ;  he  replied  that  he 
would  require  the  Sheikh's  head,  and  appoint  another  chief  in 
his  place.  We  left  him  much  pleased  with  his  courteous 
affability  towards  us,  although  we  could  not  approve  of  the 
murderous  policy  which  had  caused  the  blood  of  his  victims 
to  flow  as  water — but  the  dark  parts  of  the  earth  are  the 
'  habitations  of  cruelty. 

Our  success,  in  our  intercourse  with  the  tribes  occupying 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  was  greater  than  we  had  reasons 
at  first  to  expect.  Cotton,  indian-corn,  and  rice  are  cultivated  Producta 
here.  The  tribes  are  numerous,  and  say  that  they  are  able  to  riremin 
repel  any  attacks  of  the  Aniza.  They  were  much  pleased  with 
the  English  manufactures,  and  we  could  not  but  think,  during 
our  sojourn  among  their  tents,  that  the  day  might  not  be  very 


/ 


438 


CAPTAIN   LYKCUS  MISSION  TO  THE  ARABS. 


APPX. 
V. 


Return 
toBir. 


far  distant,  when,  under  the  protection  of  England,  tb 
ahnost  unknown  people  might  be  engaged  iu  cultivat 
indigo,  coffee,  sugar,  and  silk,  as  the  mulberry-tree  is  indi 
nous  here. 

We  returned  to  our  encampment  at  Bir  after  a  circuit 
route  of  900  miles,  having  much  cause  to  be  thankful  for 
success  of  our  dash  into  savage  life.  Already  had  a  rep 
reached  Colonel  Chesney  that  his  party  had  fallen  victi 
to«Arab  treachery,  and  our  return  was  hailed  with  univei 
joy.  It  was  sunset  when  we  arrived  at  the  port,  and,  strai 
to  say,  the  last  notes  of  the  English  national  air  were  i 
first  to  salute  us  ou  our  return. 


t 

\ 

r 


\ 


DR.  helper's  excursion   IN  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT.  439 


APPENDIX  VI. 

Extracts  from  a  report  of  an  excursion  in 

the  arabian  desert  (1836). 

BY  THE  LATE  JOHN  WILLIAM  HELFER,  M.D. 

On  board  the  'Euphrates'  Steamer,  March  20,  1836. 

The   reasons   which  induced  me   to   visit  these  parts  have     APPX. 
been — Ist,  to  examine  the  scarcely-known  Lake  El-Malak,  .    ^-  _^ 
"Which  furnishes  a  great  part  of  Syria  with  salt;  secondly,  Reasont 
to  examine  the  basaltic  mountain-chain  which  forms,  in  the  the^*"  *°* 
middle  of  the  plain,  a  separate  elevated  range;  and  thirdly,  Arabian 
to  procure  specimens  of  ornithology,  entomology,  and  botany 
for  the  Euphrates  Ejppedition. 

Leaving  the  olive  and  fig  gardens,  which  extend  about  Country 
an  hour  southwards  from  Aleppo,  by  degrees  all  trees  cease,  ^*™ 
and  not  even  a  bush  is  to  be  seen  ;  we  then  traversed  a  gra-  Sfiru 
dually  elevated,  rocky  tract  of  country-,  and  descended  into  a 
plain  which  appears  to  lose  itself  in  the  skies.     The  extreme 
uniformity  of  the  scene  was  only  varied  by  three  or  four  of 
those  small,  obtuse,  conical  hills  so  frequently  to  be  met  with 
in  Syria,  on  whose  lowest  part,  at  a  distance  of  six  hours  from 
Aleppo,  is  to  be  found  the  salt-lake  El-Malak. 

It  begins  about  an  hour  southward  from  the  village  of  Salt-lak© 
Sfiri,   and   at   this  season   is    considerably   larger   than   in  El-Malak. 
summer.     A  small  rivulet,  which  rises  about  an  hour  north- 
ward from  Sfiri,  flows  into  the  lake,  and  wanting  a  sufficient 
fall  forms  several   lagunes,  which,  increased  by  the  heavy 
winter  rains,  have  now  covered  a  great  extent  of  marshy  land, 
the  elevated  spots  of  which  are  filled  with  JuncacecVy  but  are  Vegeta- 
entirely  destitute  of  high  grass  or  ArundinaHa^  as  are  also  ^^°' 
the  borders  of  the  lake  itself,  which  presents  a  most  uniform 
aspect.     Several  small  inletu  are  seen  about  half  an  hour 
from  the  shore ;  but  a  close  examination  of  the   lake  was 


440  DR.  helper's  excursion  in  the  arabun  desert. 

APrx.     impossible,  it  being  inaccessible  on  account  of  the  mud  and 
^'^-        morass,  and  this  mournful  solitude  being  destitute  of  any 
kind  of  boat  or  canoe. 
Water-  Great  numbers  of  water-birds  frequent  the  neighbourhood 

W»d«-  of  the  lake,  but  I  had  never  in  any  place  seen  them  so  shv. 

On  approaching,  thousands  of  ducks  and  geese  flew  up  with 
a  noise  not  unlike  remote  thunder,  and  then  retired  into  the 
middle  of  the  lake,  where  they  formed  black  moveable  islands. 
Ciiinim-  ^  cannot  determine  the  circumference  of  the  lake,  as  it 

forence  of    now  exceeds  its  natural  borders  perhaps  more  than  half,  but 
I  was  informed  by  the  Arabs  that  at  the  present  season  it  is 
about  a  day  and  a  half.     The  water  is  somewhat  bitter,  and 
contains  now  but  an  inconsiderable  quantity  of  salt  partiek*?s 
Procuring    the  method  of  procuring  which  is  very  simple.     The  water, 
Oriffin  of     evaporated  by  the  summer  heat,  retires,  and  in  those  placi-s 
UmmIi.      the  pure  salt  crystallises;  it  is  from  thence  collected,  and 
conveyed  on  camels'  backs  into  the  diflFerent  parts  of  Syria. 
In  my  opinion  a  great  part  of  the  immense  plain  generally, 
Theory  of    but  certainly  falsely,  called  the  Arabian  Desert,  was  once 
^         covered  with  sea- water,  upon  the  subsidence  of  which  the  lowest 
parts  of  the  land  thus  left  dry  remained  for  centuries  impreg- 
nated with  concentrated  salt  particles.     This  is  the  case  with 
the  Lakes  EI-Malak,Greboul,  and  several  others  still  less  known. 
The  quantity  of  water  which  accumulates  during  the  wint^^r 
dissolves  a  portion  of  the  salt,  which  afterwards  in  summer 
evaporates  ;  this,  at  least,  appears  to  me  the  most  simple  and 
natural  explanation. 
Plain  A  beautiful  fertile  plain  extends  towards  the  basaltic  moun- 

to'tho^^"  tain-chain  called  El-Amri.  On  leaving  Sfiri  all  cultivation 
mountainf  ceases ;  but  the  numerous  ruins  of  villages  prove  in  how 
""^^  much  better  a  state  this  country  was  at  no  very  remote 
Vegeta-  period.  Vegetation  begins  to  revive ;  numerous  bulbous 
^^^'  plants,  whose  exist enco  a  few  weeks  before  was  not  suspected, 

raise  their  heads,  but  not  a  single  species  of  the  phaneroga- 
mous class  has  yet  been  in  bloom. 
BafMlfie  An  entire  system  of  basaltic  rocks  has  been  raised,  no 

mountaiDfl.  j^^^j^  j^y  qj^^  q^  those  volcanic  eruptions  which,  from  the  first 

historical  times,  has  been  so  frequent  in  Syria.  Like  all 
basaltic  mountains,  it  is  based  on  chalk,  and  forms  narrow 
perpendicular  valleys,  with  cliffs  on  all  sides,  and  blocks  of  all 


^ 


>■■- 


^^1 


M 


/^    ^ 


v^ 


^..  >■ 


-fi 


'■^       \ 


DB.   helper's  EXCUfiSION   IN  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT.  441 

sdzefl  scattered  in  every  direction.     There  is  also  here  an     APPX. 
entire  want  of  water,  which  produces  a  barrenness  greater  ^_    /  _^ 
than  I  ever  witnessed ;  not  a  shrub  and,  in  many  places,  not  ^^*^"*"\^ 
a  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  seen ;  it  was  seldom  even  that  the  oountry. 
black  stones  were  covered  with  the  Lecanora  or  Parietaria. 

A  plain,  in  some  places  of  three  hours  in  breadth,  lies  on 
the  tops  of  these  mountains ;  the  sole  inhabitants  are  the 
great  yellow  hyena,  one  of  which  we  wounded,  and  numbers 
of  wild  boars.  It  seems  at  fir^t  extraordinary  that  an  animal  wild 
which  is  generally  supposed  peculiar  to  large  forests  and  ^a"- 
morasses,  should  be  found  in  so  barren  a  country ;  but  he 
finds  an  aliment  adapted  to  him  in  the  bulbous  plants,  which 
are  perhaps  nowhere  so  abundant  as  here.  The  ground  in 
many  places  is  literally  ploughed  up  by  these  animals  in 
seeking  their  food,  yet  we  saw  very  few  of  them. 

I  spent  the  night  in  a  cave  to  which  I  was  conducted  by  Carernons 
my  Arab  escort,  and  was  surprised  to  find  it  so  neatly  finished.  ^'^^»**- 
On  one  side  was  a  sitting-place,  on  another  a  fireplace  with 
an  opening  for  the  smoke  ;  on  the  other  sides  were  a  kind  of 
sleeping-room,  and  a  place  for  the  animals.     The  cave  is 
about  thirty  feet  beneath  the  surface.     The  following  morning 
I  examined  the  place  more  minutely,  and  found  that  there 
existed  an  entire  troglodyte  village,  consisting  of  about  thirty 
of  these  caves  close  together  and  exactly  resembling  each 
other,  capable  of  containing  some  thousands  of  men.     When  WTien 
they  were  excavated  I  really  do  not  know,  but  am  inclined  to  ««»Tated. 
ascribe  their  construction  to  a  very  remote  period,  even  as 
far  back  as  the  time  of  the  Grecian  colonies  in  Syria ;  but 
they  may  have  been  made  use  of  by  the  Mahomedans,  whose 
indolence  induces  them  to  occupy  and  enjoy  the  labours  of 
others. 

On  making  enquiries  of  the  Arabs  who  accompanied  me,  if  Keportaof 
there  were  anything  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood,  I  was  ^^^  AraU. 
informed  that  at  about  four  hours'  distance  were  the  ruins  of 
an  ancient  town  never  yet  visited  by  a  Frangi,  and  that  in 
former  times  they  themselves  never  ventured  there,  on 
account  of  the  Aniza  ;  but  that  one  of  them  had  been  there 
last  summer  in  search  of  wild  potatoes  {Lycoperdon  ?),  and 
that  the  wild  Arabs  had  withdrawn  far  into  the  interior. 

This  report  excited  my  interest  so  much  that  I  resolved  to 


442  DB.   helper's  excursion   in   the  ARABIAN  DESERT. 

APPX.     proceed  thither,  our  road  lying  over  that  high  plain  formed 
.     ^'^'    ^  by  the  elevated  basaltic  mountain-chain.     It  was  very  in- 
Former       teresting  to  observe,  in  the  midst  of  this  desolate  country,  the 
■utoof  tS  traces  of  a  former  high  state  of  cultivation.     We  could  dis- 
^^>^^'      tinctly  see  the  terraces  cut  in  the  mountains,  that  places 
scarcely  twenty  feet  wide  had  been  cleared  of  all  stones,  and 
that  long  walls  had  been  built,  with  small  towers,  pillars,  and 
pyramids  constructed  of  the  stones  cleared  from  the  ground. 
These  increased  as  we  advanced,  so  that  the  mountain-chain 
may  in  former  times  have  formed  a  considerable  frontier  or 
barrier. 
ImoMiiM         After  traversing  this  high  region  for  two  hours,  we  descended 
J*^"'         again  into  an  immense  plain  which  extended  on  the  other 
side.     One  part  of  the  mountain  range  stretches  out  into  the 
country  in  the  form  of  a  horseshoe,    on    the  open  side  of 
which  the  Arabs  pointed  out  to  me  a  small  hill,  under  which 
lay  the  to>vn,  which  from  their  description  had  a  greater 
circumference  than  the  present  Aleppo ;  and,  indeed,  all  I 
saw  convinced  me  I  was  approaching  a  place  which  had  been 
formerly  considerable. 
If^cf  of         ^^  *^®  basaltic  mountains  I  observed  a  few  traces  of  a 
an  ancient    large  ancient  road ;  but  on  descending  into  the  plain,  we 
found  it  in  good  preservation,  running  in  a  straight  line  for 
at  least  two  miles  from  the  mountains  towards  the  town,  and 
on  the  side  of  it  the  deep  bed  of  an  ancient  channel.    We 
Where  if     saw  not  a  drop  of  water  the  whole  way :  from  whence  in 
the  water     fornier  times  the  water  flowed  it  is  difficult  to  determine,  but 
in  Syria  ancient  channels  without  water  are  frequently  met 
with. 
Town  of  On  approaching  the  spot  designated,  I  saw  something  like 

^^l  ruins,  and  soon  afterwards  I  found  myself  in  the  middle  of  a 
Ana  dia-  large  town,  named  by  the  Arabs  Belet-Chan-Asra,  perhaps 
never  before  visited  by  a  European.  It  was  completely  in 
ruins,  but  having  been  in  former  ages  demolished,  or  rather 
razed,  it  remained  afterwards  untouched  ;  and  thus  pos- 
sesses a  higher  interest  than  the  old  Hierapolis  out  of 
which  the  Turks  constructed  their  Membij,  so  that  Roman 
ten) plea  and  Moslem  mosques  are  there  seen  together.  That 
is  not  the  case  here ;  the  plan  of  the  whole  town,  and  of 
every  single  house,  can  be  easily  traced  ;  they  are  all  built 


corerad. 


"N*  "', 


■-«■ 


I      ■?' 


)VA,"¥..t.».^--Vi.\Jfc. 


DR.   HSLFEB'S  £XGUBSI0N   IN  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT.  443 

^  of  large  bajsalt-Btones,  put  together  in  a  singular  manner,     AFPX. 
hewn  cuneiform,  with  the  larger  edge  outside,  and  the  interior  ^_ 
filled  with  small  stones. 

The  whole  town  was  surrounded  by  a  wall,  though  several  WaUs. 
buildings .  and  a  considerable  temple  were  situated  outside. 
There  were  square  towers  erected  at  a  distance  of  50  feet 
from  each  other,  with  a  sharp  edge  projecting  outwards.  I 
observed  but  two  gates  leading  into  the  town,  communicating  Gates, 
with  each  other  by  a  straight  street,  more  than  two  miles  in 
length.  One  gate  is  still  partly  visible,  constructed  of  im- 
mense blocks,  and  the  angles  are  easily  to  be  distinguished  ; 
the  opposite  gate  has  fallen  in,  but  one  basrelief  still  bears 
the  following  Greek  inscription : — 

.  .  .  A^IM€NOCIh  ........ 

.  .  .  TOACTOTI  :  :   OCANH^€IP€^ 

Greek  in- 

and  on  the  other  piece  :  scriptions. 

TON€YC€B€C  .  . 

€Y€Pr€THNKAINIKHrh  .  . 
BACIA€AKYPI€CDYAA^ 

Only  two  buildings  are  at  present  standing,  and  they  are  Two 
of  such  a  curious  form  that  I  cannot  imagine  for  what  use  ^^^i^^fiP 

°  Btanaiiig. 

they  were  designed.  One  is  a  large  vaulted  hall,  with  an 
arched  entrance,  and  windows  on  the  opposite  side ;  there  are 
no  other  apartments  near.  The  other  was  perhaps  a  bath,  which 
appears  to  have  been  separated  into  different  small  apart- 
ments :  an  inscription  I  copied  there  will  perhaps  throw  some 
light  on  the  subject.  It  is  a  square  tablet,  fixed  in  the  wall, 
but  it  is  only  partly  legible : — 

TPikAioinv 

Inscription 
on  a  tablet. 


+  A(O^AnA 

TPIKAIOIOY 

KAiArmvi 

E 

VOIKAINTN 

KA 

A 

Near  this  inscription  is  a  well-preserved  sarcophagus.     Both  A  sarco- 
these  buildings  are  at  the  south  end  of  the  town,  near  the  P'^*6^"- 
gate,  where  is  also  a  portico  in  a  good  state  of  preservation, 
some  hundred  feet  in  length,  but  so  filled  with  sand  that  I 
could  not  proceed  many  paces. 


444 


DB.   helper's  EXCUBSION   IN  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT. 


APPX.  One  of  those  hills  peculiar  to  Syria  was  within  the  walls 
.  ^^-  ^  at  the  south-west  extremity  of  the  town,  and  has  served  as  a 
Castle  on  castle,  or  perhaps  it  was  a  temple :  the  walls  are  particularly 
strong,  and  occupied  a  considerable  space ;  the  front,  looking 
towards  the  larger  part  of  the  town,  is  partly  standing. 
There  was  a  large  square  gate,  surmounted  by  an  immense 
basalt  block,  bearing  an  inscription,  a  part  of  which  I  was 
able  to  copy : — 

♦P 
AIAA 

Ycprer 

HIKOYCA€C 

vnAixoYcnPAi 

AY::HC€niCKOnOI 
OPTIWTOYJC0€IOI 

Other  in-         Wandering    across    the    town,   and   looking   for  further 
■cnpuons.   information,  I  could  gather    no   more  than   the  following 
inscriptions : — 

{On  a  basrelief,  belongiiig  probably  to  a  temple). 

ATOCOC 
TAYI 

HTOCHNU) 

{On  a  door  of  a  private  house), 

I.  ..  OIKCHAniCAM/  \HKA 

IROHeOCK6«OV  ;BHe 


Rained 
TilU. 


I  omit  every  hypothesis  as  to  what  age  this  certainly  once 
considerable  town  has  belonged,  only  I  feel  myself  obliged 
to  mention  that  I  observed  on  two  places  the  Maltese  cross, 
which  lets  me  make  the  conclusion  that  this  town  was  in 
existence  in  the  time  of  the  Crusaders. 

Among  other  ruins  which  I  saw  going  back  another  way,  I 
must  mention  those  of  a  beautiful  and  grandiose  villa  situated 
in  the  middle  of  a  mournful  solitude,  amidst  the  most  pic- 
turesque forms  of  the  mountains,  giving  a  magnificent  view 
on  that  immense  plain.  Besides  this,  I  saw  the  foundations 
of  two  large  buildings  seeming  to  have  been  temples. 


DB.   HELFES'S  EXCURSION  IN  THE  ARABIAN  DESERT.  445 

On  enquiring  whether  they  had  seen  any  other  ruins  in  the     APPX. 
ig^hbourhood^  they  answered  that,  at  a  distance  of  six  hours 


the  direction  of  Palmyra  (which  is  only  twenty  hours  from  other 
?let-Chan-Asra)  are  ruins  to  a  much  larger  extent,  tiubm. 

Though  this  was  a  great  temptation,  yet  it  was  impossible 
r  me  to  visit  the  place,  being  alone  and  without  protection; 
it  the  success  of  the  English  steam-navigation  on  the 
jphrates  will  soon  open  the  country  to  the  study  of  every 
anch  of  science,  and  history  will  particularly  find  on  this 
^issic  soil  an  ample  field  for  investigation. 


446 


OPERATIONS  OP  THE   TRANSPORT. 


Af&in  at 
Antioch. 


Dwun 
Hadid. 


Marad 
Piicha. 


APPENDIX  VII. 

REPORT  OF  THE   CIRCUMSTANCES  RELATING  TO 

THE   TRANSPORT  (1835). 
BY  THE  LATE  MAJOR^ENERAL  J.  B.  B.  ESTCOURT. 

June  28. — I  set  off  from  Suedia  this  day,  to  further  the 
affairs  of  the  Expedition  at  Antioch.  Upon  arrival  I  found 
that  Mr.  Eden,  with  his  train  of  artillery  waggons,  was  near 
the  Gate  of  St.  Paul  at  Antioch,  haying  had  great  difficult?  in 
getting  through  the  town  and  along  the  road  through  the 
suburbs.  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  I  passed,  with  his  artillery 
waggons,  on  my  way  to  Antioch. 

Finding  that  the  road  through  the  town  was  so  bad,  I 
directed  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  to  continue  to  Guzelburj, 
and  embark  his  plates  there,  sending  them  by  water  to 
Djezzer  Hadid :  the  waggons  to  be  crossed  over  to  the  oppo- 
site side,  atid  drawn  unladen  to  Djezzer  Hadid  also. 

JtUy  4. — All  the  loads  and  waggons  were  now  collected  at 
Djezzer  Hadid. 

I  had  relied,  when  I  determined  upon  the  water-carriage 
from  Guzelburj  to  Djezzer  Hadid,  upon  the  report  of  Lieu- 
tenant  Lynch,  that  the  road  from  thence  toChindarees  was  prac- 
ticable :  before,  however,  allowing  the  wagons  to  proceed,  I 
rode  forward  to  reconnoitre, and  found  a  part  between  the  above 
places,  in  my  opinion,  impracticable  for  our  waggons,  laden  with 
heavy  weights,  and  drawn  by  weak  untrained  horses.  I  there- 
fore directed  the  iron  to  be  re-embarked  and  conveyed  toMurad 
Pacha  by  water,  and  the  waggons  to  go  unloaded  by  the  road, 
hoping  that  without  loads  they  would  be  able  to  pass.  In 
this  determination  I  was  obliged  to  depend  again  upoD  a 
report  of  the  road  from  Murad  Pacha  to  Chindarees,  which 
represented  it  to  be  good. 

July  7. — The  waggons  arrived  at  Murad  Pacha,  but  not  the 
iron  plates. 


OPERATIONS  OF  THE  TRANSPORT.  447 

Jvly  26. — The  first  caravan  of  artillery  waggons  arrived  at     APPX. 

Port  William.     They  had   been  detained  at  the   Sajur  for  > ,-1— * 

two  days  for  want  of  men  to  assist  the  draft.  It  had  required  Port 
upwards  of  fifty  men  to  help  the  horses  during  the  journey.  ^  ^*™' 
An  Euze-Bashee  accompanied  the  caravan,  and  was  of  great 
service,  but  he  left  at  Hal-Oglu ;  and  he  being  gone,  the 
sheikhs  and  men  left  at  the  Sajiir  refused  to  pass  the  fron- 
tier, declaring  (what  I  do  not  believe  to  be  the  case)  that 
the  Sajiir  was  the  boundary  of  Ibrahim  Pacha's  territory. 

July  28. — Upon  my  return  to  Murad  Pacha,  I  found  that 
more  iron  had  arrived  from  Djezzer  Hadid. 

August  7. — The  waggons  had  arrived  in  the  interval  from 
my  last  visit  here,  and  carried  off  all  that  they  found.  There 
were  at  this  time,  therefore,  no  stores  at  Murad  Pacha. 

I  had  for  some  days  been  occupied  in  repairing  different 
parts  of  the  roads,  going  to  Killis  for  a  cowass,  or  to  Aleppo 
for  an  order  that  the  Euze-Bashee  should  again  be  sent  to  me. 
August  9. — At  Antioch. 

August  11. — At  Miirad   Pacha,   where   I   found   stores,  Murad 
waggons,  arrived  at  Chindarees  with  Eden  from  Port  William ;  ^^^ha* 
ten  arabas,  a  long  time  promised  for  the  service  of  the  Expe- 
dition, and  directed  to  meet  me  this  day  at  Chindarees,  did 
not  come. 

August  13. — At  Antioch:  more  orders  given  for  the 
arabas  of  the  Pacha. 

August  14. — Sent  off  planking,  on  horses,  from  Giizel- 
buij  to  Chindarees. 

August  26. — Jones  (seaman)  and  Harrison  (artilleryman) 
arrived  at  Murad  Pacha.  Six  arabas  were  immediately  put 
in  a  state  of  readiness  for  oxen. 

August  30. — Artillery  waggons  set  off  again.  Eden  had 
arrived,  sick,  from  Port  William,  and  having  become  much  Sickness. 
worse,  could  not  return  with  the  waggons,  but  was  obliged  to 
have  himself  conveyed  to  Antioch  by  water:  he  did  not  after- 
wards return  to  this  duty.  Mr.  Fitzjames  T  had  found  sick  at 
Guzelburj,  where  I  had  gone,  hoping  that  he  would  be  able 
to  succeed  Mr.  Eden  in  charge  of  the  waggons. 

September  4. — The  artillery  waggons,  which  I  had  accom- 
panied thus  far,  crossed  the  Sajur,  and  set  forward  to  Port 
William. 


448 


APPX. 
VII. 


Boedia 
deared 


Killis. 


Causes  of 
delay. 


OPEKATIONS  OP  THE  TRANSPORT. 

September  9. — Having  retumeil  to  Murad  Pacha,  and  found 
many  waggons  loaded  and  ready,  I  arranged  with  the  Euze- 
Bashee  at  Chindarees  to  send  60  oxen,  all  that  could  be  got,bj 
two  days  after,  that  being  the  earliest  time  by  which  they 
could  l)e  collected. 

September  10. — ^Twenty-one  camels  loaded  and  sent  off  to 
Birejik  ;  others  directed  to  go  to  seek  loads  at  Guzelburj. 

September  11. — liieutenants  Cleaveland  and  Cockburn  ar- 
rived at  Murad  Pacha — the  first  en  route  for  Port  William, 
the  latter  to  remain.     Suedia  was  now  cleared  out. 

The  promised  oxen  did  not  come.  Three  waggons,  with  46 
oxen,  set  off  in  the  morning ;  20  more  oxen  came  in  late 
in  the  evening ;  and  the  artillery  waggons  arrived  from  Port 
William. 

September  13. — A  bedplate  with  the  20  oxen  set  off,  but 
broke  down  at  El-Hamam  for  the  second  time,  the  first  time 
having  been  between  Murad  Pacha  and  El-Hamam. 

The  artillery  waggons,  now  reduced  to  three,  started  again 
for  Port  William.  At  this  time  many  more  waggons  were 
laden  and  ready  to  start,  for  which  we  could  not  procure 
oxen. 

September  15. — At  Killis :  procured  from  the  Mutsellim  an 
order  to  the  Buoy  Beys  to  fiunish  the  oxen  required. 

Septefmber  17. — At  Killis  again,  to  meet  the  Euze-Badiee 
at  the  Mutsellim^  that  he  might  answer  to  his  accoimts. 

Now  great  difficulties  started  in  the  way  of  getting  bullocks ; 
fresh  arrangements  proposed,  all  creating  fresh  delays.  A 
system  of  reference,  at  the  last  moment,  from  one  authority 
to  another,  to  avoid  action.  The  Mutsellim  of  Killis  re- 
fused to  send  oxen  from  his  district  into  that  of  Antiocb,  in 
which  Murad  Pacha  stood,  but  which  was  now  for  the  first 
time  made  known  to  me.  W^ith  many  guarantees  for  the 
transport,  as  soon  as  the  stores  should  arrive  at  Chindarees, 
the  first  point  of  the  Killis  district,  the  Mutsellim  declared! 
must  insist  upon  the  Mutsellim  of  Autioch  fnmishing  oxen  to 
that  place.  He  might  have  been  right  in  this ;  but  notice  should 
have  been  given  by  the  Government  to  the  authorities  tofiir- 
nish  the  promised  means  of  transport,  and  to  order  them,  each 
authority,  in  his  own  province;  instead  of  which  I  was  allowed 
to  apply  from  one  authority  to  the  other,  until  I  found  out 


OPERATIONS  OP  THE  TRANSPORT.  449 

whose  duty  it  was  to  fiirnish  what  I  wanted.     In  this  case,  at     APPX. 


VII. 


this  late  hour,  I  was  engaged  with  a  caravan  on  its  road  to 
Port  William ;  no  other  oflScer  with  me,  and  therefore  unable  to 
leave  it.  This  caravan  consisted  of  the  keelsons  and  other 
timber.  There  were  waggons  waiting  for  oxen  at  Murad 
Pacha,  which  I  hoped  the  Mutsellim  of  Killis  would  have 
provided ;  but  upon  my  application  I  found  myself  referred  Applica- 
to  Antioch,  occasioning  a  delay  during  the  time  I  was  *j®^*^ 
necessarily  occupied  with  the  keelsons.  Then  the  journey  to  ritiet. 
Antioch — then  the  time  required  to  collect  the  bullocks ;  be- 
sides which  I  knew,  and  represented  to  the  Mutsellim,  that  the 
load  between  Murad  Pacha  and  Chindarees  passed  over  the 
plain  of  the  Turcomans,  who  had  no  oxen  accustomed  to 
draught ;  and  that  as  I  had  already  endeavoured  to  procure 
oxen  from  them  without  success,  I  knew  that  considerable 
difficulty  and  delay  would  arise.  The  result  bore  me  out 
in  my  expectations.  But  perhaps  the  Mutsellim  was  right  in 
refusing  to  order  oxen  from  his  district  to  Murad  Pacha. 
He,  however,  went  further,  and  sent  cowasses  to  the  Buoy 
Beys,  directing  that  they  and  their  people  were  prohibited 
from  hiring  themselves  to  our  service  beyond  the  limits  of 
the  district.  This  fact  I  learnt  afterwards  from  the  Euze- 
Bashee. 

September  22. — Having    accompanied    the    waggons    to  Return  to 
Beglie,  I   returned  to  Antioch,  and  visited   the  Mutsellim,  -^^^^c^ 
from  whom  I  received  an  order  to  Achmet  Bey,  the  Turco- 
man chief,  to  give  oxen. 

I  knew  that  this  order  would  be  ineffectual,  and  so  stated 
to  the  Mutsellim ;  however,  he  declared  the  contrary,  and 
would  give  no  oxen. 

September  23. — Sent  Mr.  Sader  with  the  order  to  Achmet 
Bey,  and,  as  I  expected,  he  either  could  not,  or  would  not, 
give  the  oxen. 

September    25. — Again    applied    to    the  Mutsellim     of  Assistance 
Antioch,  in   person ;   and  again  received  another  order  for  g*^®'^' 
Achmet  Bey,   with   full   assurances  that  he  would  himself 
send  to  the    chief,  and  that  oxen  would  now  certainly  be 
furnished. 

September  29. — Received  an  order  from  Ishmael  Bey, 
through  Mr.  Werry,  to  whom  I  had  applied  for  an  order,  also 

O  G 


M 


450 


OPERATIONS  OF  Til£  TRANSPORT. 


APPX. 
VII. 


DifAcaltiM 
nttcndiDg 
the  trans* 
l>prt 


Visit  to 
Achmet 
Bey. 


Vinit  to 

Omar 

Effendi. 


ninesfl  of 

Captain 

Efitoourt. 


addressed  to  Achmet  Bey,  to  the  same  pmport  as  that  firom 
Antioch. 

Also,  from  Mr.  Werry,  a  letter  for  Ibrahim  Pacha  stating 
our  difficulties.  This  I  forwarded  immediately  throogh 
Antioch. 

September  30. — Such  proved  to  be  the  impossibility  of  ob- 
taining oxeuy  notwithstanding  the  professions,  promises,  and 
orders  of  the  authorities,  that  I  this  day  found  myself  obliged 
to  detain  the  artillery  waggons,  which  yesterday  had  arri?ed 
for  fresh  loads,  and  to  employ  the  horses  in  drawing  to 
Chindarees  the  waggons  which  were  waiting  for  oxen.  Two 
boilers  and  one  cylinder  therefore  set  off  to-day  with  a  laige 
araba. 

October  3. — ^Visited  Achmet  Bey  myself  with  Mr.  Rassam, 
to  urge  in  person  the  necessity  of  complying  with  the  demand 
for  animals.  He  accordingly  promised  oxen  for  the  next 
day. 

October  4. — No  oxen.  Again  went  to  Achmet  Bey's  tent, 
but  found  that  he  had  gone  to  Antioch,  to  which  place  I 
immediately  followed  him. 

October  5. — Visited  Omar  Effendi.  From  him  received 
positive  assurances  of  assistance ;  that  Achmet  Bey  would  be 
compelled  to  provide  oxen — if  not  his  own,  others;  that  if 
his  own  would  not  draw,  he  would  be  obliged  to  hire  or  buy 
those  that  wouM,  or  drag  the  waggons  by  men. 

October  7. — The  two  boilers  and  cylinder,  which  had  been 
drawn  to  Chindarees  by  the  Expedition  horses,  to  the  delay 
of  the  artillery  waggons,  were  furnished  with  oxen  at  Chin- 
darees, and  went  forward  with  the  Euze-Bashee. 

October  15. — At  Beglie  the  Buoy  Bey  promised  me — in 
compliance  with  a  strong  order  from  Ishmael  Bey,  of  wbicb 
I  was  the  bearer,  and  which  was  one  of  a  long  list  of  the  same 
description  of  instruments — to  give  the  next  day  130  oxen  at 
Tcnekhalid,  which  should  convey  the  caravans  to  Foit 
William.  With  this  assurance,  I  left  the  waggons  under 
charge  of  Mr.  Bassam,  and  retraced  my  steps  to  forward 
other  stores. 

On  the  road  I  was  taken  ill ;  and  being  relieved  from  the 
duty  by  Lieutenant  Lynch,  on  October  22,  at  KiUis,  I  went 
through  Aleppo  to  Port  William. 


[ 


\ 


.'OPERATIONS  OP  THET  TRANSPORT.  461 

I  found  afterwards  that  the  Buoy  Bey  of  Beglie  upon  this     APPX. 
occasion,  as  he  had  oft;en  done  before,  broke  his  promise,  and  > — ,-l«^ 


neglected  the  orders  he  had  received.  The  130  oxen  wfere 
Qot  provided,  and  the  boilers  got  no  farther  than  the  Sajur 
for  a  considerable  time. 

On   September    12    the    first  waggon  left  Miirad  Pacha  The  first 
With  oxen.     From  that  time  till  the  time  I  left    the    duty  J^^^ 
JHo    animals   could   be    procured    from     Murad   Pacha   to  Mond 
Chindarees.     It  is  worth  remarking  how  readily  the  strongest 
Orders  were  given,  and  how  daringly  they  were  neglected. 

J.  B.  BUCKNALL  ESTCOURT. 


o  o  3 


452 


CONTIinJATION  OF  THE  TBA5SP0BT. 


APPENDIX  VIIL 


APPX. 

vm. 


Landing 
of  the 
•torn  at 
the  mouth 
of  the 
Orontee. 


First  exa- 
mination 
of  the 
Orontes. 


REPORT  OF  THE  CIRCUMSTANCES  RELATING  T( 

TRANSPORT   (1835-36). 

BY  THE  LATE  COMMAN  DER  R.  F.  CLEA VELAND.  KS 

On  boaid  the  '  Enphratee  *  Stea 
near  Kan  Bambnge,  April  10 

Sir, — In  pursuance  of  your  wishes,  I  send  you  a  r( 
the  proceedings  of  that  part  of  the  transport  of  the  s 
the  Expedition  entrusted  to  my  direction,  and  of  the 
and  men  placed  under  my  command  for  its  accomplisl 

The  landing  of  the  stores,  coals,  &c.  commenced  o; 
6,  1835,  and  was  completed  in  fourteen  working  < 
the  boats  of  H.M.S,  *  Columbine,*  our  own,  and  thos 

*  George  Canning,'  on  April  28.  Considering  the  f 
difficulty  experienced  by  the  boats  in  crossing  the  ba 
Orontes,  the  distance  of  the  ships  from  the  shore,  and  < 
anchorage,  I  am  of  opinion  that  none  but  the  most 
efforts   and   perseverance  of  the  officers   and   men 

*  Columbine,'  and  Expedition,  could  have  accomplish< 
Fo  short  a  period. 

On  April  5  I  proceeded  up  the  Orontes  (by  your 
to  ascertain  the  practicability  of  using  the  river  as  a 
of  transport  to  Antioch.  I  was  assisted  in  this  service 
Eden,  and  a  boat  under   Lieutenant  Thompson  fr 

*  Columbine.'  Afl-er  two  days' hard  work  in  tracking 
only  brought  us  to  the  Great  Kara-Chai  River  (abo 
third  of  the  distance  to  Antioch),  I  came  to  the  resoh 
advising  the  abandonment  of  the  river,  from  the  fo 
causes :  firstly,  the  loss  of  time  experienced  by  the  I 
tracking  up  its  rapid  and  winding  course ;  second 
danger  in  passing  up  its  numerous  falls;  and,  last 
difficulty  of  tracking  at  all,  in  many  places,  from  th 
and  thickly-wooded  banks. 

The  failure  of  the  river  as  a  means  of  transport,  » 


CONTINUATION  OF  THE  TRANSPORT.  453 

the  determined  opposition  of  Ibrahim  Pacha,  by  the  orders    ^^^• 
of  Mehemet  Ali,  prevented  the  removal  of  any  of  the  stores 


from   Suedia  until  May  28,  1835 — with  the  exception  of  a  Causes  of 
light  caravan  to  Aleppo  in  charge  of  Mr.  Eden,  which  reached  removal  of 
Its    destination  in  safety,  but  without  the  sanction  of  the  the  stows 
authorities.     A  second  caravan  was  attempted  in  charge  of  Suedia. 
Mr.  Bell,  but  being  passed  by  Ibrahim  Pacha  (who  landed 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  our  camp,  from  the  *Nile' 
ateam- vessel,  on  May  20),  on  his  road  to  Antioch,  his  High- 
Dess  directed  the  muleteers  to  turn  back  immediately,  on 
pain  of  death  in  case  of  disobedience  ;  and  as  the  remonstrance 
of  Mr.  Bell  produced  no  effect,  this  caravan  was  obliged  to 
return. 

However,  the  interval  between  the  landing  and  May  28 
was  not  by  any  means  an  idle  one  with  us,  although  a  most 
serious  and  injurious  loss  of  time  to  the  interests  and  plaus 
of  the  Expedition,  caused  entirely  by  the  breach  of  &ith  and 
opposition  of  the  Egyptian  Government ;  to  overcome  which,  Measures 
you,  at  the  commencement,  in  company  with  Captain  Hen-  **^?P^^  ^ 
derson  and  the  officers  of  the  ^  Columbine,'  had  an  interview  consent  of 
with  Ibrahim  Pacha  at  Tripoli ;  also  in  every  other  respect  J^®  Synan 
the  most  strenuous  exertions  were  made  to  gain  the  consent  ment  for 
of  the  Syro-Egyptian  Government  for  the  transport  of  the  ^®  ^"^^ 
Expedition.    To  the  same  purport  Captain  Estcourt  and  Dr. 
Staunton  also  had  an  interview  with  his  Highuess  at  Tripoli ; 
and  on  May  23,  in   company  with  Mr.  Werry,  I  visited  him 
at  Antioch ;  but  merely  extracted  from  His  Highness  a  pro- 
mise, that  if  an  order  arrived  from  Mehemet  Ali  permitting 
the  Expedition  to  pass  through  Syria,  he  would  then  put  all 
the  resources  of  the  country  at  our  command,  and  that  the 
transport  should  be  quickly  finished ;  but  until  an  order  to 
this  effect  did  arrive,  it  was  his  duty  to  oppose  us  in  every 

way. 

As  I  have  already  stated,  the  interval  between  the  landing  Time,  how 
and  May  28  was  made  the  most  of  by  us.     All  the  stores,  between 
coals,  &c.  had  been  laid  out  and  packed  for  carriage  by  theknding 
camels,  mules,  or  waggons;   but  as  the  opposition  of  the  28. 
Pacha  prevented  the  land-carriage,  we  again,  on  April  30, 
tried  the  Orontes  with  a  raft,  but  failed  in  getting  farther 
than  the  second  fall,  from  the  extreme  rapidity  of  the  current. 


r 


454 


CONTINUATION  OP  THB  TRANSPOBT. 


APPX. 
VIII. 

Tracking; 


Second 
ezunina- 
tion  of  the 
Orontee. 


Aeport 
ana  its 
conse- 
quence*. 


Mr.  Fitf- 
james's  de- 
parture for 
Scande- 
xoon. 

lAunch 
and  trial 
of  the 
•Tigris.' 


First  mes- 
sage of 
Omar 
Effeodi 
from  the 
Pacha. 


Second 
message  of 
Omar 
Eflendi 
from  the 
Pacha. 


which  frequently  pressed  the  raft  entirely  under  water.  The 
tracking  was  very  severe  work  for  our  men,  who  were  often 
carried  back  in  five  minutes  by  the  current  more  than  they 
had  gained  in  an  hour ;  but  they  bore  it  with  that  cheerful- 
ness and  good  feeling  that  has  so  constantly  attended  their 
labours.  I  was  assisted  on  this  occasion  by  Mr.  Charlewocd, 
and  cannot  express  myself  too  strongly  in  return  for  hit 
unremitting  exertions. 

On  May  2,  by  your  wishes,  I  again  proceeded  up  the 
Orontes  with  Messrs.  Gharlewood  and  Bell,  to  examine  some 
of  the  worst-looking  places  as  to  depth  of  water,  in  order  to 
determine  on  the  practicability  of  getting  the  ^Tigris'  up  to 
the  weirs  near  Antioch.  Finding  everywhere  deep  water,  we 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  if  the  ^Tigris '  would  steam  nine  or 
ten  knots  an  hour,  and  steer  well,  she  would  ascend  the  river, 
assisted  by  warps  over  some  of  the  falls.  From  this  report,  on 
May  6,  you  decided  on  setting-up  the  ^  Tigris' ;  the  same  day 
a  slope  was  cut  down  to  the  river,  ways  laid,  and  the  'Tigrir* 
commenced.  During  the  building  the  carpenters  were  em- 
ployed constructing  a  waggon,  the  spare  hands  enlarging 
the  creek  near  us  for  the  reception  of  the  ^Tigris'  when 
launched. 

On  May  7,  Mr.  Fitzjames  set  off  for  Scanderoon  to  join 
the  surveying  party  under  Lieutenant  Murphy. 

May  23.— Launched  the  *  Tigris ' ;  employed  till  the  29th 
in  getting  in  her  engines  and  boilers,  intending  her  to  cany 
a  load  of  the  ribs,  &c  of  the  '  Euphrates '  up  the  river.  Be- 
tween May  29  and  June  3  made  several  trials  with  her,  but 
never  succeeded  in  reaching  more  than  five  miles  up  the  river, 
from  causes  explained  in  my  report  of  that  date. 

On  May  30,  Omar  Effendi  came  with  a  message  from  the 
Pacha,  stating  that  if  he  (Ibrahim  Pacha)  did  not  receive 
orders  from  Mehemet  Ali  within  five  days  from  that  time,  he 
would  take  upon  himself  the  responsibility  of  allowing  the 
Expedition  to  proceed  to  Bir,  and  that  he  would  give  the 
necessary  assistance. 

June  3. — Omar  Effendi  again  visited  us,  with  a  second 
message  from  the  Pacha  to  this  effect :  that  Mehemet  Ali  had 
sent  his  Highness  positive  instructions  to  allow  the  Expedition 
to  proceed  to  Bir,  and  to  render  every  assistance  required  of 


CONTINUATION  OP  THE  TRANSPORT.  455 

him.    This  information,  after  the  failure  of  the  *  Tiinris '  on  the     APPX. 
ri?er,  decided  on  her  being  broken  up,  and  prepared  in  eight  '_- 

•actions  for  land-carriage  on   waggons   made   by  our  car-  Breaking 
penters  of  the  keelsons  and  other  large  timber.  <  Tigris.'^ 

June  4, — Lieutenant  Lynch  (who  arrived  the  day  before)  Lieutenant 
visited  the  Pacha,  made  demands  for  animals  for  the  trans-  }^7J^^\^ 
port,  and  men  to  repair  the  roads  to  make  them  passable  for  with  the 
our  waggons.    The  Pacha  consenting  to  these  demands,  Lieu-  fo^^iJ"^ 
tenant  Lynch  proceeded  to  superintend  the  repair  of  the  purpose. 
load  from  Antioch  to  Birejik ;  Messrs.  Fitzjames,  Bell,  and 
Sergeant  Quin,  the  road  from  Suedia  to  Antioch.    This  service 
was  extremely  well  performed  by  the  latter  oflficers,  which,  Road- 
firom  the  indolent  habits  of  the  natives,  want  of  proper  tools,  ™*king. 
the  rough  hilly  ground,  two  rivers,  and  numerous  streams 
(through  which  our  road  passed),  made  it  a  very  arduous 
task,  and  one  requiring  great  judgment  to  avoid  the  many 
obstructions  presenting  themselves.    The  road  was  completed 
about  June  15. 

On  June  8,  fifty  camels  arrived  and  were  loaded  with  great  ^iwt  load- 
difficulty,  as  the  cameleers  were  very  stubborn  people,  and  c^ela. 
insisted  upon  selecting  their  loads,  and  that  only  after  a 
great  deal  of  vexatious  talking  and  grumbling. 

Hired  some  native  carpenters  to  assist  in  making  waggons.  Carpenters 

June  12. — Two  hundred  bullocks  arrived  for  the  waggons,  ^''[®^' 
but  after  many  fruitless  attempts  to  make  them  draw,  we  buUockB. 
were  obliged  to  discharge  them. 

In  consequence  of  the  vague  and  unsatisfactory  manner  in  Inatten- 
which  the  Pacha's  orders  were  carried  into  execution,  from  authori?* 
the  unwillingness  of  the  people  to  work,  the  stubbornness  of  to  the 
the  cameleers  and  muleteers,  our  work  commenced  very  badly,  ^^ers'^nd 
and  made  it  necessary  for  me  again  to  see  the  Pacha,  and  ill  conse- 
state  the  general  inattention  to  his  orders.     Accordingly,  on  ^^®°***' 
Jane  13  and  14,  I  had  interviews  with  his  Highness,  which  My  inter- 
were  good  in  their  results ;  producing  an  order  for  the  Mut-  ^^TpISh* 
sellim  of  Antioch  and  Agha  of  Suedia  to  be  in  constant  at-  and  its  re- 
tendance  on  the  work  at  our  camp  ;  an  Euze-Bashee  to  assist         • 
the  waggons  on  the  road,  and  as  many  cowasses  as  we  re-  ^^^^  # 
quired ;  also  a  strong  *  Boyardhi '  to  control  the  whole.  the  Mut- 

June  16.— The  Mutsellim  of  Antioch,  Agha  of  Suedia,  and  ^u'^jf 
several  cowasses  arrived,  bringing  with  them  146  men  to  ^^ 


456 


OONTXNUATION   OF  THE  TRANSPORT. 


APPX, 

vm. 

Loading  of 


forth* 


Training 
of  animals. 


Fint  at- 
tempt to 
•enft  on  a 

&ilare. 

Mm  ool- 
laetcdto 
dngtha 
waggotti. 


Halt  at 

•unaet 


Uproar 
of  came- 
laen. 


carry  loads  to  Antioch ;  gave  them  the  ribs  of  the  *  Euphrates,' 
and  sent  them  off.  Loaded  and  sent  off  60  cameb  during 
the  day ;  the  heaviest  load  was  600  pounds,  but  the  genenlitj 
much  under. 

June  1 8. — Not  being  able  to  induce  the  muleteers  to  put 
their  animab  to  our  waggons,  came  to  the  determinatioa  of 
purchasing  horses.  At  our  request  the  Alutsellim  collected 
all  the  horses  of  the  district,  and,  fixing  the  prices,  we  bought 
all  those  likely  to  answer  for  the  waggons  (none  had  efer 
been  in  harness),  also  some  bullocks. 

Commenced  training  our  animals  in  the  waggons;  hid 
much  trouble  with  them  at  first,  as  they  had  never  drawn 
before,  but  the  attempt  was  altogether  encouraging. 

June  1 9. — Mr.  Fitzjames  endeavoured  to  get  on  the  diving- 
bell  truck,  loaded  with  sheets  of  iron  of  the  *  Euphrates;' 
but  after  repeated  trials  was  obliged  to  desist^  as  the  oxen 
would  not  draw. 

The  Mutsellim  collected  100  men  for  starting  the  artilleij 
waggons  in  the  morning. 

June  20,  3  a.m. — I  set  off  in  charge  of  the  five  nr- 
tillery  waggons,  having  Mr.  Eden  with  me,  and  a  party  of 
our  men  under  Sergeant  Quin  as  drivers,  and  100  countiy- 
men  for  the  dragropes.  As  the  horses  pulled  badly,  found 
we  had  not  force  enough  for  the  five  waggons;  left  the  rear 
one  behind,  and  put  the  men  and  horses  on  the  remaining 
four.  At  sunset  halted  on  the  top  of  the  first  hill,  encamped 
for  the  night,  and  paid  the  people.  We  only  made  five  niiles 
this  day,  having  met  many  obstructions  on  the  road,  and  the 
natives  working  very  unwillingly,  requiring  constant  beating 
and  yelling  to  get  them  on. 

Mr.  Fitzjames  was  employed  during  the  day  in  bringing  up 
the  artillery  waggon  left  behind  by  us.  He  had  four  horses 
and  thirty  men  to  assist  with  dragropes,  and  by  great 
exertion  made  about  three  miles,  bringing  up  for  the  night 
in  a  cornfield  about  two  miles  from  us. 

June  21. — Ninety-six  camels  were  loaded  and  sent  off  to 
Bir  by  Mr.  Charlewood ;  these  wild  cameleers  kept  the  camp 
in  a  complete  uproar  while  loading,  by  their  scrambling  for 
everjrthing  light  and  easy  to  cany ;  but,  by  dint  of  perse- 
verance, were  got  off  in  the  end  with  tolerably  heavy  loads. 


CONTINUATION   OP  THE  TRANSPORT.  457 

Artificers  employed  making  waggons  of  all  kinds,  the  spare     APPX. 
hands  laying  loads  for  the  camels.  ^-L^ 

At  3  A.M.  I  started  with  the  four  artillery  waggons,  and  ^^^j. 
arrived  at  the  Zigzag  Hill  about  nine  o'clock.     This  hill  was  Hill  of 
deservedly  christened  the  Hill  of  DiflBculty,  as  it  always  re-     *  °  ^^' 
quired  all  the  tackles,  anchors,  screwjacks,  and  other  pur- 
diases  we  could  muster,  to  surmount  it ;  in  after-times  with 
the  heavy  waggons,  it  has  cost  us  days  of  the  most  inde- 
scribable exertion  and  fatigue,  frequently  not  gaining  more 
than  a  few  feet  in  an  hour ;  and  the  constant  breaking  of  our 
tackling,  chains,  ropes,  &c.  in  a  scorching  sun,  made  it  alike 
trying  to  the  patience  and  temper,  as  well  as  health,  of  our 
seamen  and  soldiers,  who,  although  they  suffered  much  in  the 
latter,  I  am  convinced  were  never  equalled  in  their  fortitude 
and  perseverance  by  any  other  set  of  men. 

After  an  hour's  halt,  ascended  the  hill  with  all  our  force  Slow 
on  one  waggon  at  a  time.  By  2  p.m.  had  them  all  up,  but  ^g®^iJ^^ 
found  we  could  not  cross  the  rocky  crest  just  beyond  the 
hill,  without  an  additional  force  on  the  ropes.  Sent  an 
order  to  Mr.  Fitzjames  to  bring  up  his  men  and  horses  to 
our  assistance.  He  was  soon  with  us,  and  his  aid  as  cheer- 
fully given  as  it  was  useful  to  us.  Got  the  waggons  past  this 
place  by  sunset,  where  we  halted,  encamped  for  the  night, 
and  paid  the  people,  now  160  in  number. 

•/ttne  22.— Twenty-three  camels  were  loaded,  and  sent  off 
from  the  camp  by  Mr.  Charlewood.  Artificers  employed  in 
making  waggons  ;  spare  hands  laying  loads  for  the  camels. 

At  daylight  I  proceeded  on  with  the  four  waggons,  keeping 
Mr.  Fitzjames's  men  and  horses,  as  we  had  some  very  bad 
road  in  front.  Mr.  Fitzjames  returned  to  the  camp,  thereby 
incurring  your  displeasure,  which  should  more  properly  have 
£allen  on  me,  as  this  change  of  plans  was  entirely  by  my 
directions,  but  at  the  same  time  made  with  the  best  intention. 
About  10  A.M.  we  reached  the  Great  Kara-Chai.    The  descent  5®*^  *^« 

Great 

into  the  river  being  very  rugged,  steep,  and  winding,  we  could  Kam-Chai 
only  lower  down  one  waggon  at  a  time,  with  only  the  shaft-  "^®'- 
horses  in,  and  all  the  men  on  the  drag-ropes  behind ;  in 
lowering  the  second  waggon  down,  it  fetched  way,  and  run- 
ning into  the  bank  badly  wounded  one  of  the  shaft-horses.  ^|^^  Legger 
At  sunset  arrived  at  the  Lesser  Kara-Chai,  and  found  the  Kaia-Chai. 


458 


CONTINUATION  OF  THE  TRANSPORT. 


APPX. 
VIII. 


Airireat 
Plain  of 
Antioch. 


Bridge  of 
Antioch. 


Mr. 

Charle- 
wood  set« 
out  with  a 
rmft  up  th« 
Orontei. 


descent  as  bad  as  at  tlie  other  river,  but  the  wi^gons  were 
lowered  down  without  accident.  Halted  here,  encamped  for 
the  night)  and  paid  the  people. 

Mr.  Clegg,  engineer,  passed  us  to-day  on  his  road  to  Bir, 
in  charge  of  75  camels.  Mr.  Fitzjames  set  off  and  reached 
the  first  hill  with  one  waggon  ;  also  Mr.  Bassam  with  8e?enl 
small  ones. 

June  23. — ^At  daylight  I  proceeded  on  with  the  four  artil- 
lery waggons,  and,  after  a  hard  day^s  work,  at  sunset,  reached 
the  plain  about  three  miles  from  Antioch  ;  encamped  for  the 
night,  and  paid  the  people.  I  went  down  to  Suedia  to  ex- 
plain what  we  were  doing  to  you,  and  to  clear  up  the  change 
of  your  arrangements  made  by  me  on  June  21.  1  returnei 
to  the  waggons  during  the  night. 

Fifty  camels  and  twenty  mules  were  loaded  and  sent  from 
the  camp  by  Mr.  Charlewood.  The  cameleers  were  the  most 
troublesome,  boisterous  set  we  had  had  anything  to  do  with 
yet. 

Mr.  Fitzjames  and  Mr.  Sassam,  having  103  men  and  20 
bullocks,  got  their  waggons  to  the  top  of  the  Zigzag  Hill  with 
great  difficulty,  lightening  the  waggons,  and  carrying  portions 
of  the  loads  up  the  hill  by  hand ;  nearly  killed  one  of  the 
natives  by  the  falling  of  a  plate  of  iron. 

June  24. — Proceeded  on  with  the  waggons  at  daylight:  at 
9  A.M.  arrived  and  encamped  at  the  Bridge  of  Antioch.  I 
went  on  to  examine  the  road,  to  the  village  of  Giizelburj, 
about  one  hour  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Orontes ;  found  the 
road  ran  through  the  plain  a  few  yards  from  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  to  be  very  good,  with  the  exception  of  one  place, 
afterwards  repaired  by  Lieutenant  Murphy. 

This  day  Mr.  Charlewood  made  another  attempt  with  a  raft 
of  keelsons  up  the  Orontes,  having  four  of  our  men,  and  21 
natives :  the  tracking,  as  usual,  was  extremely  difficult  and 
dangerous,  the  raft  often  capsizing  and  diving  completely 
under  water.  It  was  very  hard  work  for  the  officer  and  his 
men,  who,  continually  wet  and  burnt  up  during  the  day, 
were  cold  and  comfortless  on  the  banks  of  the  river  at  night 
However,  by  the  most  praiseworthy  perseverance,  they  reached 
within  a  mile  of  Antioch  on  June  28,  when  the  natives,  tired 
of  their  bargain,  and  disgusted  with  the  bard  work,  deserted 


CONTINDATION  OP  TEE  TRANSPORT.  459 

them  :  and  not  being  able  to  get  any  assistance  from  Antioch,     Anii?* 

Mr.  Cbarlewood  and  his  party  retm-ned  to  Suedia,  having , — ' 

left  their  raft  in  charge  of  a  native  living  on  the  bank  of  the 
river.  The  raft  could  not  be  hauled  over  some  of  the  falls, 
and  was  therefore  repeatedly  taken  to  pieces,  dragged  round 
by  land,  and  launched  again  on  the  upper  side  of  them. 

June  25,  6  a.m. — I  left  Mr.  Eden  in  charge  of  two  waggons 
at  the  bridge,  to  await  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Fitzjames  with  his  ; 
I  went  on  with  the  other  two  (having  increased  their  loads 
from  Mr.  Eden's  waggons)  to  the  village  of  Guzelburj, 
discharged  the  loads,  and  proceeded  back  towards  Suedia.  At  Guxelbiiij. 
sunset  halted,  bivouacked  for  the  night  in  a  cornfield  about 
four  miles  from  Antioch ;  found  near  us  Mr.  Fitzjames  and  his 
waggons.  During  the  night  the  fieldmen  arrived  in  charge  of 
two  artillerymen. 

June  26. — At  daylight  I  proceeded  on,  and  reached  the 
Hill  of  DiflBculty  at  3  p.m.  Found  collected  here  loads  by  The  Hill 
Captain  Estcourt  and  Mr.  Rassam,  in  a  number  of  two-  of  Diffi- 
wheeled '  arabas,'  a  species  of  waggon  exceedingly  well-adapted 
for  these  rough  and  hilly  roads:  they  resembled  the  wine- 
carts  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  and  were  drawn  by  from  four  to 
twelve  oxen;  they  usually  carried  from  10  to  16  cwt.,  but 
frequently  broke  down  with  these  loads. 

Leaving  Sergeant  Quin  to  load  the  artillery  waggons  from 
the  materials  on  the  hill,  I  proceeded  on  to  the  camp  to 
report  my  arrival  to  you,  and  joined  the  waggons  again  during 
the  night,  ready  for  starting  in  the  morning. 

Mr.  Fitzjames  reached  to-day,  with  his  waggons,  within  a 
short  distance  of  Antioch. 

JuTie  27.— Having  collected  60  natives  to  man  the  drag- 
ropes,  at  daylight  I  started  with  the  two  artillery  waggons 
for  Guzelburj ;  arrived  there  on  the  morning  of  June  29 ; 
unloaded  the  waggons,  and  crossed  them  and  horses,  in  the 
ferry-boats,  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river;  bivouacked 
here  for  the  night. 

This  day  Omar  EflFendi  visited  and  informed  Lieutenant  Vimtof 
Murphy  that  the  Pacha  had  ordered  him  to  remain  at  Antioch  j^ftendi  to 
until  the  removal  of  the  stores  of  the  Expedition  from  Suedia  Lieutenant 
to  the  next  depot  was  completed,  and  to  give  every  facility  to     ^"^  ^' 
that  effect. 


460  CONTINUATION  OP  THE  TRANSPORT. 

AFPX.        *  June  30.  ^At  daylight  put  the  loads  brought  by  the  two 
waggons  into  six  of  the  river-boats,  and  ordered  them  up  to 


Djezzer  Hadid ;  this  done,  cut  across  the  fields  with  the  two 

empty  waggons  into  the  Djezzer  Hadid  road.     Arrived  at  tlie 

bridge  at  1 1  A.M .,  and  sent  the  horses  back  to  assist  Mr.  Eden 

in  getting  up  with  his  two  waggons,  now  joined  by  those  of 

Mr.  Fitzjames,  who  arrived  at  Antioch  on  the  morning  of 

the  27th. 

Mr.  Ed6B*s       Mr.  Eden  passed  over  the  bridge  and  through  Antioch, 

^J^*^       having  about  60  of  the  townspeople  to  drag  the  waggons: 

Antioch.      they  were  a  very  riotous,  unruly  set ;  it  was  with  great  diffi- 

Repair  of    culty  he  got  out  of  the  town  and  suburbs,  and  finding  the 

raid  from    XQ9A  Yery  bad  for  some  miles  beyond,  Mr.  Fitzjames  was  set 

Paoloc  to    to  work  to  repair  it,  by  Captain  Estcourt's  order. 

S^^  Mr.  Eden  arrived  at  Djezzer  Hadid  on  July  1.     Employed 

ourselves  in  getting  the  waggons  over  the  bridge.     During 

the  day  four  boats  arrived  from  Guzelburj,  reporting  the 

Gaptaia       Other  two  to  be  on  their  way.     In  the  afternoon  Captain 

Ertcourt* •    Estcourt  passed  bv  on  his   examination  of  the  road  from 

tion  of  tb«  Djezzer  Hadid  to  Chindarees.    On  his  return,  he  pronounced 

rottdfrom    ^^^  p^^^  ^f  ^q  ^^^  impassable  for  the  loaded  waggons, 

liadidto     and  consequently  determined  on  taking   up  the  following 
Chmda-       jjjjg  ^f  transport — from   Guzelburj  up  the  Orontes  to  the 
Chanffo  of    Kara-Su,  by  which  river  the  boats  were  to  enter  the  Lake  of 
the  line  of  Agha  Denghis,  and  work  their  way  across  to  Murad  Pacha. 
*por^    This  arrangement  was  good  for  many  reasons  ;  it  gave  us  18 
or  20  miles  of  easy  water*carriage  in  the  direction  of  Bir, 
and  the  stores  were  landed  on  a  good  road  within  six  hours 
of  Chindarees ;  also  a  considerable  gain  in  point  of  time,  as 
the  waggons   depositing  their  loads  at  Guzelburj  returned 
so  much  the  sooner  for  fresh  loads,  while  the  hako  (waggoner) 
kept  the  waggons  supplied  from  Murad  Pacha  to  Bir — thus 
making  our  progress  constant  along  the  whole  line. 
I)ep6tat         July  2. — Mr.  Fitzjames  took  charge  of   tlie    Giizelburj 
GQielbag.   depot,  and  received  the  first  division  of  arabas  and  small 
waggons  from  Suedia. 

Between  July  2  and  July  5,  by  Captain  Estcourt's  order, 
I  sent  all  the  loads  we  had  brought  to  Djezzer  Hadid  down 
the  river,  and  so  on  across  the  lake  to  Murad  Pacha,  to 
which  place  Mr.  Eden  proceeded  (by  the  old   road)  with 


CX)NTINUATION  OP  THE  TRANSPORT.  461 

the  empty  waggons,  picked  up  his  loads,  and  made  the  best    ^^^* 
of  his  way  to  Bir.  ^,    ,  '■■.^ 

I  ¥ras  ordered  back  to  the  camp  at  Snedia,  and  on  my 
return,  on  the  night  of  July  6,  found  Mr.  Charlewood 
bivouacking  on  the  top  of  the  Zigzag  Hill,  having  arrived  there 
that  evening  with  a  section  of  the  '  Tigris '  and  flat-boat  on 
wheels.  The  countrypeople  for  the  dragropes  and  oxen  had  Vexations 
been  collected  with  great  diflBculty,  and  took  every  opportunity  ^' 
of  deserting.  The  waggons  had  also  broken  down  repeatedly, 
causing  many  vexatious  delays. 

July  7,  6  A.M. — I  arrived  at  the  camp,  and  reported 
myself.     Found  the  artificers  hard  at  work  making  waggons. 

July  8. — Sent  off  three  arabas  with  engine-work,  and  a 
caravan  to  Birejik  of  36  mules,  24  carrying  the  ammunition.  Canmm  to 
Struck  the  store-tent,  and  sent  the  observatory  and  a  round  •^"^*' 
tent  with  the  caravan.    Mounted  the  first  of  the  '  Euphrates  * 
boilers,  and  took  it  into  the  road  ready  for  starting. 

July  9. — Sent  off  20  laden  mules  to  join  the  others,  and 
a  party  under  Corporal  Clark  to  take  charge  of  the  whole. 
Sent  two  tents  with  them.  Artificers  working  hard  and  in 
extra  hours  to  complete  the  ironwork  of  the  waggons  before 
starting  for  Birejik.  Sent  carpenters  out  to  repair  the 
broken  waggons  on  the  road,  and  by  them  some  money  to 
Mr.  Charlewood,  who  was  still  working  his  way  with  the 
section  and  flat.  Three  section  waggons  being  completed  to- 
day, mounted  the  sections,  and  got  them  into  the  road  ready 
for  starting. 

On  July  10  you  left  for  Birejik,  giving  me  instructions  as  Colonel 
to  the  method  of  carrying  on  the  transport,  and  which  to  departure 
the  utmost  of  my  power,  and  as  far  as  circumstances  would  for  Bire- 
permit,  were  put  into  execution.  ^ 

There  remained  at  the  camp  at  this  time  the  following 
heavy  weights : — 

5  Boilers  of  the  *  Euphrates/ 

3        „  „      'Tigris.'  g^^^ 

14  Half-sections  of  the  *  Tigris.  Snedia  on 

2  Cylinders  and  2  bedplates  of  the  *  Euphrates.*  J^^jr  10. 

2         ,,  „  'Tigris.' 

1  Diving-bell. 
1  Flat-boat. 


462 


C05TIXUATI0N  OP  THE  TRANSPORT: 


Tmitport 
of  the 
hemrr 
weighU. 


Raaof 
pontoons. 


Also  about  100  loads  of  plank  and  beams.  Sent  you  a  van  by 
horses  to  Guzelburj,  150  camel-loads  of  coal,  and  otber 
things  to  Bir,  and  25  araba^loads  of  machinery  to  Guzel- 
buij. 

The  heavy  weights  were  transported  to  Giizelburj  on 
waggoDS  made  by  our  carpenters  and  smiths  of  country  timber, 
and  keelsons,  beams,  and  long  timber  of  our  own.  Our  car- 
penters and  smiths  are  entitled  to  the  highest  credit  for  their 
energy  and  unwearied  labours:  they  had  always  to  work 
extra  hours,  and  frequently  to  make  journeys  from  the  camp 
to  the  road  at  night  for  the  repair  of  the  broken  waggons. 
They  constructed  three  waggons  for  the  boilers,  five  section 
and  four  timber  waggons,  three  small  ones  made  of  gmi- 
slides,  and  other  small  wood ;  also  15  two-wheeled  arabaa 
Some  sledges  were  made,  but  did  not  answer,  excepting  that, 
when  empty,  they  were  useful  in  training  our  oxen.  From 
Guzelburj  the  stores  were  tracked  up  the  Orontes  in  our  two 
flats,  and  four  other  boats ;  also  a  raft  of  pontoons  was  used 
occasionally,  and  four  or  fire  native  boats  kept  constantly 
going.  From  the  Orontes  they  passed  into  the  lake  by  the 
Kara-Su,  and  passed  on  to  Murad  Pacha,  where  they  deli- 
vered their  loads. 

In  officers  and  men,  you  left  me  all  our  small  means  could 
afford — ^indeed,  all  I  asked  for  and  felt  entitled  to— to  accom- 
plish my  task.  The  officers  were  Messrs.  Charlewood  and  Fltx- 
james;  Mr.  Eassam,  interpreter;  and  about  the  middle 
period  of  the  transport^  Dr.  Staunton,  leaving  for  Birejik, 
was  relieved  by  Mr.  Ainsworth.  The  following  are  the 
names  of  the  artillerymen,  carpenters,  seamen,  &c. : — 


List  of 
men  em- 
ployed on 
the  tranS' 
port  from 
SucdiA  to 
H&nid 
Pacha. 


Artillerymen. 

Seamen. 

Maltese. 

Job  Yains,  Rmith. 

Wm.  Wright. 

Michaek 

Edw.  Harrison,  smith. 

Peter  Laurie. 

Brifia. 

John  Waddle. 

John  Hunter. 

Swnroff. 

John  Clark. 

Shiclona 

Carpenters. 

Fran.  Hoffman. 

5  Greeks. 

Wm.  Frew. 

John  Brown. 

Wm.  Jackson. 

D.  Sucho. 

Wm.  Watt. 

ThoB.  Jones. 

The  removal   of    the  stores  from  Suedia  to   Guzelburj 


CONTINUATION  OF  THE  TRANSPOKT.  463 

was  ejffected  by  myself,  Mr,  Charlewood,  and  about  three-     APPX. 

fourths  of  our  men— the  remainder  being  with   Mr.  Fitz-   . ,  '.^ 

James,  receiving  the  stores  at  Guzelburj,  and  taking  them 
across  the  lake  to  Murad  Pacha;  but  it  frequently  hap- 
pened that  our  waggons  broke  down  near  Antioch,  in 
which  case  they  were  left  to  Mr.  Fitzjames  to  repair  and  get 

on. 

Dr.  Staunton  and  Mr.  Ainsworth  had,  in  their  turn,  ample  AssiBUwioe 

employment,  as  our  sick  list  generally  exceeded   half  our  medical 
numbers ;  but  their  aid  was  always  kindly  given  when  re-  office™. 
quired,  and  our  work  often  essentially  served  by  their  as- 
sistance. 

Mr.  Charlewood  and  myself  were  alternately  laid  up  by  Sickness  of 
hurts  for  a  few  days,  and  of  course  the  work  then  devolved  ®*>™*^*"* 
on  the  one.  On  August  25  Mr.  Fitzjames  was  laid  up  with 
a  brain-fever  from  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  did  not  recover 
firom  the  effects  of  it  until  September  30.  Mr.  Charle- 
wood then  took  charge  of  Guzelburj,  and  the  road  and 
camp  fell  to  me. 

Having  cleared  and  given  up  the  camp  at  Suedia,  on  Eyncu- 
September    7    I    arrived    at    Guzelburj    with   the   last    of  the* camp 
the  heavy  weights,  two  boilers,  flat-boat,  ^and  diving-bell.  ^^  Suedia, 
I  here  received  a  letter  from  you,  ordering  me  to  proceed  to  of  the  last 
Bir,  immediately  ;   and    on    September    9,   having    made  ^^^ 
all  the   necessary   arrangements  with  Mr.  Charlewood  for  Gfi^biuj. 
bringing  up  three  broken  waggons  and  some  plank  remaining 
on  the  road,  also  the  remainder  of  the  men  and  stores  from 
Guzelburj  to  Murad  Pacha,  I  proceeded  on  to  Birejik,  and  My  depar- 
arrived  there  on  September  12.  R^[k! 

During  the  transport  from  Suedia  to  Giizelburj,  the  small  Transport, 
arabas  were  generally  taken  by  the  countrypeople  for  a  ^.^ca'- 
sum  of  from  180  to  250  piastres,  and  seldom  broke  their 
contracts  except  by  the  breaking-down  of  the  waggons ;  but 
the  heavy  waggons  always  by  our  people,  and  under  the  su- 
perintendence of  myself  or  Mr.  Charlewood.  A  division  of 
eight  or  ten  waggons,  on  an  average,  took  1 1  days  in  reach- 
ing Guzelburj,  and  usually  had  from  60  to  150  bullocks,  and 
upwards  of  that  number  of  men  to  man  the  dragropes ;  our 
men  guiding  the  poles,  fixing  the  tackle-chains,  ropes,  screw- 
jacks,  anchors,  and  other  contrivances,  by  which  they  were 


M 


464 


CONTINUATION   OP  THE  TRANSPOBT. 


APPX. 
VIII. 

Difflcul- 
ties  of 


Ofncsn  of 
the  Pacha. 


The  people 
of  the 
ooantry. 


Obstacles 
em  route. 


Efl^tsof 
the  climate 
on  Koro- 
peani. 


Nocesnity 
of  ready 
cash. 


Pajment 
of  the 
natiTes. 


got  along,  hauled  over  hills,  through  swamps,  and  righted 
when  capsized. 

The  difficulties  we  contended  with  were  all  but  insurmount- 
able, the  first  and  most  vexatious  beii^  either  from  the  du- 
plicity and  insincerity  in  the  professions  of  Ibrahim  Pacha, 
or  the  almost  utter  want  of  attention  in  the  under-authorities 
to  his  orders,  to  facilitate  the  transport  of  the  Expedition; 
either  of  these  causes  was  sufficient,  and  did  produce  the 
most  destructive  delays  in  getting  the  stores  from  Suedia  to 
Birejik,  and  subsequently  in  the  descent  of  the  £uphrate& 
To  lessen  these  ill  eflFects  (for  they  were  never  completely  re- 
moved) we  were  kept  in  constant  communication  with  the 
Pacha, 

The  Mutsellim  of  Antioch  and  Omar  Effendi  were  certainly 
the  two  most  zealous  of  the  Pacha^s  officers  in  our  cause,  but 
even  they  did  not  by  any  means  keep  pace  with  our  ex- 
pectations. 

Secondly,  the  countrypeople  never  worked  willingly  for 
us ;  all  was  done  by  force,  and  they  deserted  with  their  cattle 
whenever  an  opportunity  offered,  leaving  us  often  in  the 
most  critical  situations. 

Thirdly,  the  steep  and  rugged  roads  in  many  places,  the 
two  Kara-Chai  rivers,  numerous  streams  and  swamps,  could 
only  be  passed  by  the  waggons  by  the  utmost  exertions  and 
most  incessant  laboiu*  of  the  officers  and  men  who  accom- 
plished it. 

Fourthly,  the  extreme  heat  of  the  days  was  very  distress- 
ing to  our  people :  none  escaped  sickness,  and  one  poor  fellow 
(James  Brown,  seaman),  when  just  within  sight  of  Antioch 
on  July  23,  with  the  second  division  of  heavy  waggons,  was 
attacked  with  brain-fever,  and  died  in  a  few  days. 

Again,  our  supply  of  money  was  very  irregular,  causing 
frequent  delays,  as  nothing  could  be  done  except  by  payment 
on  the  spot ;  the  Syrian  people,  2^  far  as  we  were  concerned 
with  them,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  being  *  completely 
destitute  of  all  principle  of  honour  or  good  faith  in  any  of 
their  dealings.' 

The  country  people  employed  by  us  were  paid,  each  man, 
three  piastres  a  day,  a  sheikh  ten,  a  cowass  or  inferior  oflficer 


THE  TKANSPORT  COMPLETED  TO  MUfiAD  PACHA.  465 

from  eight  to  twelve ;  but  for  good  services  they  frequently     ^f{^ 
received  presents  of  various  kinds.  r-^ 


Lastly,  the  continual  breaking-down  of  our  waggons 
brought  us  the  most  indescribable  troubles  and  disappoint- 
ments. 

This  concludes  the  report  of  the  transport,  from  Guzel-  C«iicliwion 
burj  to  Murad  Pacha,  that  came   under  my  superintend-  part  of  the 
ence ;  and  as  I  have  been  favoured  by  your  approbation  of  transport, 
my  exertions,  I   naturally    feel   doubly  indebted   to  those 
officers  and  men,  who,  placed  under  me,  have  on  all  occasions 
>o  zealously  and  successfully  devoted  their  whole  energies 
and  efforts  to  its  accomplishment. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be. 

Your  obedient  humble  servant, 
R.  T.  CLEAVELAND,  Lieutenant  R.N. 


Colonel  Chesney,  R.A., 
Commander  of  the  Expedition. 


H    H 


466  8UMMABT  OF   CAPTAIN  CHARLEWOOD'S  JOURNAL 


APPENDIX    IX. 

SUMMARY  OF  JOURNAL  (1835),  BY  ACTING  LIEUT. 
(NOW  CAPTAIN)  E.  P.  CHARLEWOOD,  R.N. 

APPX.         April  27,  1835. — At  last  the  'George  Canniag'  transpoi 

-_  at  anchor  off  the  mouth  of  the  Orontes,  was  cleared  oti 

Providence  had   so  far  been   favourable  to  our  enterpria 

|i  for,  in  spite  of  the  dangerous  surf  and  shallow  bar  across  tl 

1  mouth  of  the  river,  all  our  stores  were  safely  landed,  and  n 

I  a  life  lost  in  this  hazardous  work.     Possibly  years  hence  \ 

may  live  to  see  a  harbour  constructed  at  the  entrance  of  tt 
river. 
Scene  in  Our  camp  was  indeed  a  busy  scene.     A  number  of  t 

**"P'  men  were  selecting  and  laying  out  camel  loads;    but  i 

principal  work  was  the  preparation  for  the  building  of  tl 
smaller  steamer  (the  'Tigris'),  in  consequence  of  the  refbs 
of  Ibrahim  Pacha  to  allow  us  to  proceed  into  the  ioteii 
towards  the  Euphrates  river.  Our  Colonel  was  determiiM 
to  show  that  we  were  not  to  be  stopped ;  he  proposed,  then 
fore,  to  put  the  *  Tigris '  together,  with  the  view  of  convej 
ij  ing  our  stores  up  the  Orontes  to  Antiocb,  or  beyond  it 

■  practicable. 

April  28. — We   had  not  yet  finished  with  the  surf  oi 

the  bar  of  the  river.     Our  consort,  H.  M.  S.  *  Columbinej 

3  had  sent  her  launch  for  water ;  the  boat  was  returning  heavil] 

j  Dangon  of  laden  at  4  p.m.,  through   this   dangerous  surf,  and  we  oi 

:{  shore  were  watching  her  closely.     As  she  approached  tlN 

surf,  some  heavy  seas  rolled  into  her,  and  in  a  short  time  ii 
was  evident  she  would  be  wrecked.  Boats  were  iustantl] 
sent  to  the  rescue,  and  the  whole  crew  safely  brought  oi 
shore.  My  boat  being  the  smallest  was  soon  swamped,  ant 
the  crew  sent  sprawling  into  the  surf — fortunately,  howeTer 
within  reach  of  the  launch,  which  was  then  grounded  o\ 
the  bar. 


SUMBIARY  OP  CAPTAIN   CHARLEWOOD'S  JOURNAL.  467 

April  29. — The  Colonel  having  ordered  Cleaveland  and     APPX. 
myself  to  survey  the  Orontes,  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  ^    ^  _- 
how  far  it  was  navigable  for  the  *  Tigris '  steamer,  we  pre-  Prepare  a 
pared  a  raft,  and  started  at  10  a.m.  with  fifteen  men,  two  "*^- 
boats,  and  ten  days'  provisions. 

The  Orontes  winds  through  a  level  plain  for  about  4^ 
miles.  It  then  enters  a  gorge  in  the  mountains,  and  becomes 
a  series  of  rapids  until  it  reaches  Antioch,  a  distance  of  about 
35  miles  by  the  windings  of  the  river.  The  entrance  of  this 
gorge  is  marked  by  a  perpendicular  red-coloured  cliflF,  about 
100  feet  high.  We  completed  our  survey  to  this  point  satis-  Survey  of 
fiictorily,  finding  the  river  very  rapid — four  miles  an  hour —  orontlw?' 
and  an  average  depth  of  nine  feet.  Our  raft  proved  a  seri- 
ous impediment,  the  boats  being  unable  to  tow  it  after  the 
first  two  miles ;  and  tracking  became  exceedingly  difficult, 
owing  to  the  brushwood  growing  upon  the  banks.  After  con- 
siderable toil,  we  succeeded  in  advancing  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
up  the  gorge  beyond  the  red  cliff;  here  we  found  the  river 
narrowed  to  about  thirty  feet,  and  rushing  down  between  the 
rocks  in  a  perfect  torrent,  rendering  it  quite  impracticable 
for  the  raft.  Cleaveland  therefore  decided  to  return  at  once 
to  the  camp,  and,  if  necessary,  proceed  with  the  survey  with- 
[>ut  the  raft  or  boats. 

The  Colonel  being  anxious  to  obtain  a  further  survey  of 
the    river,   and    especially   with   the  view   of   ascertaining 
whether  there  was  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  in  this  torrent 
for  the  steamer,  we  (Cleaveland  and  myself)  started  early  Soundbg 
in  the   morning   of  May  2,  with  the  necessary  lead-lines,  tiie torrent. 
Skc.,  for  sounding  the  torrent.     On  reaching  the  surface  of 
bhe  rock  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  overhanging  the 
:»taract,  we  set  to  work  with  our  lead-lines,  &c.,  but  in  vain ; 
the  current  was  too  rapid  for  the  lead  to  reach  the  bottom. 
Wliat  was  to  be  done  ?     To  return  to  the  camp  and  report  a 
Eailure  to  the  Colonel,  who  allowed  nothing  to  be  impossible, 
«ras  quite  out  of  the  question.     We  therefore  decided  to  take 
it  in  turns  to  jump  in  I    and  if  the  bottom  could  not  be 
reached  with  our  feet,  it  would  be  a  clear  proof  there  was 
sufficient  water  for  the  steamer.     Accordingly,  Cleaveland,  cie»ve- 
vho  was  my  senior  officer,  and  claimed  his  right  to  take  the  land's  first 
irst  leap,  stripped  off  his  clothes,  and,  a  long  and  light  rope    ®*^' 

B  H  2 


t 


t 


I 


^ 


4 

1 


ft 


I 

I 
I 


I 


458  SUMMARY  OF  C.UTAIX   CHARLEWOOD'S  JOUBNAL 

haTing   been  secured  round  his  waist,  be  leaped  in 

torrent,  rusbing  past  some  twelve  feet  below  where  ^ 

standing.    By  keeping  bis  arms  stretched  out  borizontc 

bead  did  not  go  under  water  as  he  was  dasbeti  down  tl 

I    *  Fortunately,  also,  I  veered  out  the  rope,  so  as  not  to  ch 

A    j  speed  with  which  he  shot  past  me,  so  that,  about  fort; 

-.  ,  lower  down,  he  was  tossed  into  an  eddy-current  clos 

sandbank,  where  he  safely  landed.      My  tiu-n  now 
\  and,  having  made  every  preparation,  I  leaped  in,  hold 

t  arms  up  in  a  line  with  my  body.     I  imagine  that 

1  UBdcr  tlM   means  I  must  have  gone  down  some  feet  under  water. 

.  |1  J  water.         sciousness  must  then  Lave  almost  entirely  left  me. 

aware  that  I  was  under  the  water,  and  admiring  i 
J  rushed  pa.st  sparkling  like  diamonds.     Tliis  sensation 

i^  was  more  one  of  pleasure  than  of  pain,  is  all  I  can  i 

ber,  until  I  awoke  to  the  fact  that  I  was  lying  half  out 
water,  with  Cleaveland  standing  over  me  in  ecstacies ; 
K<«ri7        ing  I  was  not  drowned.    It  appeared  that  when  I  wen 
^'^'*^'"^     water,  Cleaveland  became  alarmed,  and  tried  to  pull 
as  I  passed  down  the  torrent;  but  the  more  he  pull 
deeper  I  seemed  to  be  forced  down,  and  rapidly  shot 
the  stream,  first  to  one  side  and  then  to  the  other,  tl 
all  the  time  running  out  of  his  hands  at  an  alarmii 
At  last,  either  from  its  breaking  or  the  end  passing 
his  hands,  I  came  to  the  surface,  and  was  fortunate 
upon  the  bank  where  I  found  myself,    Cleaveland 
j  »  hurried  down  to  prevent  my  floating  oflF  again. 

I  Wliether  I  had  felt  all  that  a  drowning  man  would 

it  is  impossible  to  say;  my  impression  is,  that  th< 
rushing  past  had  stunned  me ;  at  all  events,  I  was  soo 
recovered,  and  neither  Cleaveland  nor  I  felt  any  bad 
from  our  novel  and  rash  method  of  sounding  a  torren 
returned  to  the  camp  on  May  4,  satisfied  that  the  i 
could  be  of  no  essential  service  in  transporting  store 
than  four  miles  up  the  Orontes. 

The  following  day  (May  5),  news  having  arrived  tha 

Hortile        him  Pacha  had  taken  a  decidedly  hostile  step  by  tumir 

fbraWm       ^^  camels  and  50  muJes,  hired  by  our  agent  in  Ale 

Fkcba.        convey  part  of   our  stores  to  the  Euphrates,  and  ( 

Chesney  not  being  a  man  to  stick  at  trifles,  order 


SUMMARY   OP   CAPTAIN   CHARLEWOOD'S   JOURNAL.  469 

issued  by  him  to  construct  the  *  Tigris '  steamer,  with  the     APPX, 
ostensible  view  of  transporting  our   stores   by  the  Orontes  .    ^'  _. 
riyer  as  far  inland  as  practicable,  but  principally  I  suspect  to 
impress  the  Pacha  with  the  fact  that,  having  landed  here, 
nothing  should  deter  us  from  carrying  out  the  object  we  had 
in  view. 

From  this  date  we  commenced  our  operations,  first  con-  A  slip- 
sferucting  a  slipway  for  the  *  Tigris,'  and  collecting  together  ^  f^' 
Iter  iron  ribs  and  side-plates.      By  6  p.m.  the  bottom-plates 
were  all  in  their  places  ready  to  be  riveted,  and  for  many 
days  afterwards  the  rivet-hammers  were  at  work  from  day- 
light to  dusk. 

Various  attempts  had  been  made  to  obtain  baggage  animals, 
but  in  each  case  Ibrahim  Pacha's  officers  had  persisted  in 
preventing  their  proceeding  to  our  camp.  On  May  22  the 
*  Tigris,'  or  rather  her  iron  shell,  was  pronounced  fit  to  swim, 
and  she  was  successfully  launched  into  the  river  in  the  pre-  I^aimch 
Bence  of  a  large  concourse  of  Syrians  and  Arabs,  whose  ex-  « Tigris/ 
clamations  of  '  Mashallah  ! '  at  seeing  iron  float  on  water, 
were  very  amusing.  Mrs.  Barker,  the  wife  of  Mr.  Barker, 
late- Consul-Gen eral  at  Alexandria,  christened  the  vessel  with 
&  bottle  of  Lebanon  wine. 

Tlie  engines  were  now  fitted  in  her,  and  by  May  29  she 
nras  ready  for  a  triaUtrip.     The  less  said  about  these  trial-  Hertrial- 
^rips    the  better,  for  they  were  far  from  promising,  either  ^'^' 
with,  reference  to  speed  or  steerage;  but  they  nevertheless 
[)roduced,  to  the  fullest  extent,  all  the  good  we  hoped  for. 
[brabim  Pacha  evidently  had  at  last  discovered  we  were  not 
:o  be  stopped,  and  on  May  30 — the  day  after  our  first  trial- 
xip — changed  his  tactics,  and  sent  us  an  intimation  to  the  Change  in 
jffect  that  he  would  not  only  allow  us  to  proceed,  but  pro-  J^Jfj^^"*'* 
tnised  to  give  us  every  possible  assistance. 

The  greatest  activity  prevailed    in    our   camp   upon   the  Artivlty  in 
MTival  of  this  news.     The  'Tigris'  was  gradually  hauled  up  ^"^P* 
ind  taken  to  pieces  in  sections,  comnjeucing  from  the  bow. 
Carpenters  constructed  flat  platforms  on  strong  axles  and 
wheels  for  the  conveyance  of  the  boilers,  diving-bell,  &c., 
each  of  these  articles  weighing  between  2|  and  4  tons. 

The  bedplates  of  the  engines  of  both  steamers  were  also 
fitted  with  axles  and  wheels  for  travelling,  and  indeed  all 


Thabai 


Tw.>  Turku 
drawn  ing. 


SDMMABY   OF  CAPTAIN    CHABLSVOOD'S 

Borte  of  ingenious  cootrivances  were  hit  upon, 
flat-boate,  built  to  convey  our  boilers  through 
bar  of  the  Orontes,  were  fitted  like  waggon 
addition  of  large  masts  and  sails  to  help  th 
the  wind  was  fiiir.  Horses  and  oxen  were 
rather  pretended  to  be  broken  in — by  a  koowi 
man,  who  at  last  was  punished  so  severely 
which  rushed  at  him  and  damaged  his  ribs,  I 
duuald  was  obliged  to  abandon  his  breakii 
dangerous  occupation. 

I  must  here  mention  that  for  a  considei 
time  a  large  party  had  been  occupied  const 
over  the  very  difficult  country  between  the  cai 
a  distance  by  road  of  about  23  miles  ;  th 
the  country  to  the  Euphrates  (altogether  a 
from  the  camp  to  Birejik)  being  compar 
travel  over.  Up  to  this  time  all  were  in  gt 
withstanding  the  weather,  which  had  been 
generally  very  hot  with  heavy  thunderEtorai 
rain  pouring  thrpugh  our  tents  and  Boakin 
clothing. 

Od  June  4  the  bar  of  the  Orontes  was  a< 
anxiety.  Two  Turks  attempted  to  cross  it  ii 
aud  were  instantly  capsized  in  the  surf.  Se 
case  was  hopeless,  unless  an  attempt  was  mad 
Noffman  (an  able  seaman)  and  I  obtained  s 
proceeded  to  the  nearest  point  of  dry  laud,  t 
out  to  the  drowning  men,  who  were  fast  dri 
iu  the  current  of  the  river ;  fortunately  we  re 
fore  they  had  drifted  beyond  the  full  tether  ( 
we  were  all  pulled  on  shore  together.  I  do 
tlior  the  gratitude  of  a  Turk  is  proverbial,  but 
these  fellows,  on  being  safely  landed,  took  t 
wrung  them,  put  them  on  again,  and  then  wai 
uttering  one  word ! 

l.'p  to  June  24,  490  camels  and  about  105 
sent  off  to  Port  William  on  the  Euphrates, 
small  stores.     Some  200  men  hod  also  carri 
various  pieces  of  angle  iron  which  could  not  1 
the  backs  of  ouimals  over  the  mountainous 


SUMMABT  OF  CAPTAir^  CHARLEWOOD's  JOURNAL.  471 

s  was  as  nothing  compared  to  the  undertaking  then  before     APFX. 
—namely,   the   transport  of  the   heavy  weights.      Four  ^ , — ' 


lllery  waggons,  laden  with  sections  of  the  ^Tigris,'  and 
kwn  by  horses  purchased  by  the  Expedition,  had  been  sent 
ay ;  the  horses  were,  however,  so  imperfectly  broken  in  for 
ftwing,  that  the  prospect  of  the  waggons  making  a  mode- 
sty quick  journey  was  not  very  promising. 

Finding  that  the  long  wooden  keelsons  of  the  two  steamers  The  keel- 
iild  not  be  conveyed  past  the  intricate  windings  of  the  road  toStecL 
tween  our  camp  and  Antioch,  the  Colonel  decided  on 
iking  the  attempt  to  track  them  up  the  river  to  Antioch, 
d  entrusted  this  duty  to  me.  Accordingly  I  started  with 
iir  of  the  longest  pieces  of  keelsons,  four  English  sailors, 
enty-one  natives,  and  a  boat 

The  river,  after  the  first  4^  miles,  being  one  series  of 
pids  over  rocks,  with  occasional  weirs  built  right  across, 
IT  labours  were  not  only  severe  but  hazardous  in  the  ex- 
eme;  each  piece  of  timber  had  to  be  dragged  up  these 
pids  separately. 
By  June  28  we  succeeded  in  arriving  within  one  mile 

Antioch,  but  in  a  pitiable  plight — two  of  our  English  Ourpiti- 
ilors,  as  well  as  myself,  having  lost  our  shoes  in  the  water,  *  ®^^  ^ 
isides  other  portions  of  our  clothing,  from  the  repeated 
jsetting  of  the  keelsons  when  secured  together  as  a  raft, 
at  the  prospect  of  success,  and  the  consequent  disappoint- 
ent  of  every  dismal  expectation  of  some  evil  prophets  lefb 
.  the  camp,  quite  rewarded  us  for  our  exertions  and  mis- 
ips.  However,  a  sad  blow  to  our  hopes  occurred  this  fore- 
>on« 

We  had  arrived  at  a  bend  of  the  river  where  the  water 
3came  a  shallow  torrent  for  a  considerable  distance,  quite 
^passable  for  my  keelsons.  It  was  therefore  decided  to 
>nvey  them  overland  to  the  next  bend  of  the  river.  The 
3at  was  accordingly  at  once  sent  across  with  a  few  of  our 
ten,  but  on  our  return  we  found  that  all  the  rascals  left  Desertion 
shind  had  deserted.  This  obliged  us  to  leave  the  keelsons  °^  ^^^^ 
roperly  secured  and  return  to  the  camp.  A  few  days  after- 
ards  it  fell  to  the  lot  of  Mr.  Fitzjames  to  complete  the 
ansport  of  my  late  charge  to  Antioch. 

Arriving  at  the  camp  on   June  29,    I   found  consider- 


472  SUHMASY  OF  CAPTAIN  CHARLEWOOD's  JOURNAL. 

APPX.     ^^^^^  progress  had  been  made  in  despatching  the  light  articli 
^^        by  camels  and  mules ;  preparations  were  also  going  forwai 
Arrinlat    '^^  ^^®  serious  portion  of  the  transport.      Several  of  th 
P^.  moderately  heavy  loads,  such  as  the  ^  Tigris '  sections,  a  fla< 

boat  on  wheels,  &c.,  had  already  started,  but  the  heavy  boiler 
and  diving-bell  still  remained.  Messengers  with  brokei 
axles,  wheels,  &c.,  were  constantly  arriving  from  the  waggon- 
trains  already  on  the  road,  and  many  waggons  were  tempo- 
rarily abandoned  from  the  desertion  of  the  natives  with  their 
oxen. 

Up  to  July  4,  I  had  been  very  busy  sending  off  light 
waggons,  and  helping  others  on  the  road  out  of  their  diffi- 
culties— also  getting  them  up  the  first  and  most  diflScult  hill, 
which  rises  abruptly  from  the  plain  of  Suedia,  about  four 
miles  from  the  camp.  This  hill,  celebrated  in  the  annals  of 
the  Expedition  on  account  of  the  many  hard  days'  work  it 
afforded,  is  the  worst  on  the  whole  line  to  Antioch,  and  was 
The  Hill  of  christened  the  *  Hill  of  DiflSculty,'  or  *  Zigzag  HilV  our 
^^***^^*  engineers  having  made  a  rough  and  scarcely  practicable  zig- 
sag  road  up  it.  All  our  heavy  weights  had  at  first  to  be 
dragged  up  this  hill  with  tackles  attached  to  anchors  sunk 
into  the  earth  at  each  turning  of  the  road,  and  screwjacb 
applied  at  the  rear  of  the  waggons.  Ultimately,  having 
broken  several  anchore,  we  adopted  the  plan  of  dismounting 
the  boiler  from  its  waggon,  and  then  parbuckling  it  up  the 
hill — in  other  words,  we  fairly  rolled  it  over  and  over  until  it 
arrived  at  the  summit.  An  advance  of  100  jsida  was  in 
11  some  cases  a  g^ood  day's  work. 

A  tmin  of        A  summary  of  my  journal  when  in  charge  of  one  train 
^"^S**"**     of  waggons  may  give  a  tolerable  idea  of  the  difficulties  en- 
countered.    The  train  consisted  of  two  boilers,  weighing  ^ 
and  4  tons  respectively,  each  mounted  on  a  low  four-wheeled 
I  truck — an  engine  bedplate  weighing  2^  tons,  fitted  with  axles 

and  wheels,  and  a  flat-boat,  also  fitted  with  wheels. 

July  5. — We  expected  a  large  muster  of  men  and  oxen  at 
daylight  this  morning  to  convey  this  train,  but  only  25  men 
and  22  oxen  arriving,  we  started  with  the  bedplate  alone,  but 
liad  not  procetKied  a  quarter  of  a  mile  when  the  guiding-pole 
broke;  this  was  repaired,  and  in  an  hour's  time  we  were 
off   again,   arriving   at   dusk  at  the  *  Hill   of   Difficulty, 


i\ 


SUMMABT  OP  CAPTAIN   CHARLEWOOD'S  JOURNAL.  473 

ftfter  sundry  disasters,  and  sleeping  by  the  side  of  the  bed-     APPX. 

plate.  ^^^L^ 

At  daylight  we  found  that  the  whole  of  the  men  had  Desertion 
deserted  with  their  oxen.  We  therefore  returned  to  the  camp,  ^jt'jf^iJ^ 
where  the  flat-boat  was  ready  for  a  start,  eight  of  our  horses  oxen. 
liaTing  been  attached  to  it,and  twenty  Syrians  to  man  the  drag- 
xopes.     A  large  mast  was  fitted,  and  the  sail  hoisted  to  a  fair 
and  fresh  wind.     Away  we  went  in  gallant  style,  the  men 
and  horses  having  little  to  do  excepting  to  direct  the  course 
by  the  guiding-pole.     All  went  well  upon  the  smooth  plain, 
but  upon  entering  a  narrow  lane  three  miles  from  the  camp 
a  large  stone  caught  one  of  the  fore  wheels,  and  broke  off 
die   axle  and  guiding-pole.      It  was  now  too  late  for  any 
fiirther  work ;  all  therefore  returned  to  the  camp  ready  for 
the  boilers,  having  first  tilted  the  boat  over  into  a  ditch  to 
dear  the  road. 

Through  the  great  exertions  of  our  Colonel  and  the  autho- 
rities of  Antioch,  a  large  collection  of  Syrians  with  their  oxen 
was  made :  70  oxen  and  80  dragropemen  were  now  attached  Dragging 
to  the  largest  boiler  and  waggon,  and  a  few  less  to  the  ^^^il®"*- 
smaller  boiler.  We  started  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  dusk 
arrived  close  to  the  flat-boat,  which  was  now  in  a  fit  state  to 
IHTOceed  on  its  journey.  Here  we  bivouacked  for  the  night. 
Four  cowasses  had  been  sent  from  Antioch  to  look  after  the 
men  and  prevent  their  running  away ;  we  found  tbem  par- 
ticularly useful  in  this  respect. 

At  daylight  an  additional  supply  of  oxen  and  men  arrived 
for  the  flat-boat.  All  three  waggons,  therefore,  started  to- 
gether, but  the  road  was  so  loose  and  uneven  that  our  pro- 
gress was  not  very  satisfactory ;  however,  at  sunset  we  found 
ourselves  at  the  foot  of  the  Zigzag  Hill.  The  jackals  seemed  Jackal?, 
to  consider  us  as  intniders  here  during  the  night,  for  they 
howled  incessantly,  and  one  managed  to  get  on  the  top  of  one 
of  the  boilers  and  steal  a  piece  of  meat,  although  men  were 
lying  down  in  all  directions  about  it.  One  of  the '  Columbine's ' 
oflBcers,  who  stayed  all  night  with  us  at  the  camp,  was  so 
alarmed  at  the  howling  jackals,  that  he  sat  up  with  his  pis- 
tols in  hand,  and  could  not  be  induced  to  sleep  on  shore 
again. 

When  the  light  had  again  appeared,  we  set  to  work  with 


r 


474 


SCMUABT  OP  CAPTAIN   CHARLBWOOD  S  JODBSJ 


Dnggiu      1 
tbr  nnaUsr    . 


Ai'PX.  the  bedplate,  and  in  two  houn  succeeded  in  dmggii 
^  ,  main  force  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  by  noon  the 
ma  placed  by  the  aide  of  the  bedplate,  having  capei 
rolled  over  the  side  of  the  road  in  consequence  of  ot 
forewheela  getting  jammed  under  the  bottom  of  t 
Fortonalely,  it  bad  only  a  moderate  fall  of  about  ten 
The  smaller  boiler  waa  now  taken  in  hand ;  1 
were  attached  to  it,  and  all  the  men  manned  tl 
ropes.  The  signal  was  given,  and  a  meh  made  w: 
'  gixtdwill  that  the  boiler  ran  nearly  up  to  the  first  tu 
the  zigzag  road ;  here,  however,  it  stuck,  and  could 
moved  forward  inch  by  inch  with  tackles  attached  to 
in  front,  and  Ecrewjacks  applied  to  the  rear  of  the  ' 
By  sunset  we  had  only  advanced  to  the  first  tumin; 
road,  about  100  yards  from  the  foot  of  the  hill ;  heri 
tunately,  the  guiding-pole  was  broken,  and  we  were 
until  it  wna  dark  in  repairing  it.  No  time  was  los 
morning,  so  that  by  noon  we  felt  great  pride  in  behol 
first  boiler  on  the  summit  of  the  Hill  of  Difficulty 
side  of  its  smaller  brothers, — the  bedplate  and  flat-h 
And  now  for  the  laigest  boiler  I  A  few  men  a 
had  stolen  away  during  the  night;  still,  from  the  ei 
we  had  gained  with  the  first  boiler,  we  did  not 
About  90  oxen  were  yoked  to  it,  and,  in  addidoi 
were  brought  down  to  each  side  of  the  wagg 
fastened  to  heavy  anchors  sunk  iuto  the  earth  at 
turning  of  the  road.  A  general  rush  was  then  ql 
away  the  boiler  went  right  up  to  the  turning  of 
without  one  stop ;  the  men  became  frantic  with  theii 
screeching  and  yelling  with  excitement.  It  was  in 
to  persuade  them  to  stop  at  the  turning ;  on  they  woi 
and  round  the  pole  and  fore  asletree  would  torn  to 
next  length  of  the  zigzag  road.  The  strain  was  far  b 
the  pole  broke,  and  the  boiler  toppled  over  and  fell ' 
waggon  on  its  aide,  and  partly  overhanging  the  pn 
Hamllotti  side  of  the  road.  By  the  greatest  mercy  no  one  v 
""r™-  although  one  or  two  escapes  were  marvellous.  No 
progress  could  be  made  this  day ;  but  before  lying 
rest  the  boiler  was  remounted,  and  the  shortened  po 
put  iu  its  place. 


fl 


SUMMARY  OF  CAPTAIN   CHAKLEWOOD'S  JOURNAL.  475 

During  this  day  a  native  had   brought  me   a  beautiful     APPX. 
water-melon^  upon  which  I  contemplated  breakfasting  the        ^^' _- 
following  morning.     Accordingly,  after  picketing  my  horse  Adventures 
dofie  to  me,  I  put  my  melon  into  a  carpetbag  to  make  a  ^^J*  water- 
pillow,  and  being  very  tired,  soon  fell  sound  asleep.     When 
I   awoke  in   the   morning   I    found,  to   my   surprise,  that 
my  head   was  lying  exceedingly  low,  the  carpetbag  in  fact 
being  quite  empty — ^the  melon  had  vanished!     No  human 
being  was  stirring,  and  my  horse  was  standing  with  his  head 
OTer  me,  looking  so  sleepy  and  so  innocent,  that  I  should 
never  have  discovered  the  thief,  had  not  one  single  melon- 
seed  still  remained  on  the  upper  part  of  his  lower  lip  ! 

I  may  here  remark,  that  during  the  whole  of  my  hard  work, 
nothing  proved  to  be  so  refreshing  in  the  evening  as  tea.  Making 
An  old  preserved  meat-tin  served  as  my  kettle,  teapot,  and  ^®** 
cup.  When  each  day's  work  was  over  a  fire  was  lighted,  and 
the  tin  full  of  water  placed  on  it.  When  the  water  boiled, 
the  tea,  sugar,  and  milk — when  obtainable — were  introduced. 
No  king  could  relish  his  supper  more  than  I  did  this  decoc- 
tion, accompanied  by  a  chicken  and  some  wheaten  bread. 

And  now  for  the  boiler.     Notwithstanding  the  sharp  look-  The  boiler 
out  kept  by  the  cowasses,  the  men  and  oxen  had  gradually  *8a»n. 
slipped  away  during  the  nights,  and  when  prepared  to  start 
once  more,  we  found  our  force  reduced  to  58  oxen  and  as 
many  men.     In  vain  we  toiled  on ;  every  inch  of  ground  in 
advance  was  obtained  by  screwjacks  applied  to  the  rear  of 
the  waggon,  and  by  noon  we  had  only  advanced  some  30 
feet  I    Accordingly,  after  dinner  it  was  resolved  to  try  a  new 
method.     The  boiler  was  taken  oflf  the  w^gon,  and  then 
turned  over  and  over  as  it  was  rolled  up  the  hill.     This 
proved  to  be  by  far  the  most  rapid  way  of  progress,  for  by  More  rapid 
eleven  o'clock  the  following  day  all  four  waggons  were  at  the  progress. 
summit  of  the  hill,  the  boilers  mounted  and  ready  to  proceed ; 
but  alas  I  our  men  and  oxen  had  melted  away ;  sufficient  only 
were  left  for  the  bedplate  and  flat-boat,  which  were  at  once 
sent  on,  and  in  about  five  days'  time,  after  various  breaks-  Arrival  at 
down,  arrived  at  Antioch.  Antioch. 

The  two  boilers,  however,  had  to  wait  several  days,  and 
upon  examination  it  was  found  that  the  roads  leading  down 
to  two  mountain  torrents  on  our  route  were  too  narrow  for 


Z'-  < 


476 


SUmiAST  OF  CAPTAIN   CHABLEWOOD  S  J0URKA1 


1 


fl 


)i  i 


I 

I 


r 


f     1 


APPX. 
IX. 

^        ■ " 

Widening 
therond. 

KntiY« 

BKbodof 

bleeding. 


DfAthfrom 
8iiD8troke. 


An  nnez- 

pected 

difficulty. 


the  boiler-waggons  to  pass.     My  time  was  therefore  oc 
in  widening  the  road  ¥rith  the  few  Syrians  that  could 
lected. 

Nothing  of  any  moment  occurred  during  this  wo 
cepting  a  carious  plan  adopted  to  bleed  one  of  the  i 
whose  head  had  become  affected  by  the  intense  I 
the  sun.  The  patient  was  seated  upon  a  stone, 
small  cord  passed  round  his  neck,  each  end  beinj 
by  a  person  on  either  side.  The  doctor — who  ev 
was  a  barber  by  profession — now  produced  a  razo 
shaved  clean  a  small  spot  upon  each  temple.  This 
accomplished,  the  signal  was  given  to  haul  upon  th< 
the  natural  consequence  of  which  was,  our  patient 
became  purple,  with  his  eyes  starting  out  of  his  hea 
di)ctor  now  placed  his  razor's  edge  upon  the  right 
where  it  had  been  shaved,  and  then,  with  a  slight  fli] 
finger  upon  the  back  of  the  razor,  skilfully  cut  a  smal 
The  same  operation  was  repeated  on  the  left  temple,  i 
two  small  streams  of  blood  spouted  out  to  some  dists 
eitlier  side,  the  doctor  occasionally  examining  its  qua 
catching  a  little  on  a  loose  stone.  At  last  he  gave  th< 
to  slacken  the  cord,  when  the  fountains  instantly  stopp 
the  patient  was  helped  to  his  home.  Whether  this 
letting  extraordinary  was  attended  with  any  good  i 
never  heard,  neither  did  I  ever  see  the  poor  fellow  ag 

One  of  our  own  seamen  also  received  a  sunstroke 
time,  aud  appeared  like  a  drunken  man  ;  he  was  carri 
Antioch,  and  died  in  a  few  da}'s. 

The  road  at  length  was  widened,  and  oxen  and  n 
sembled  for  the  two  boilers  on  waggons  left  on  the  i 
of  the  Zigzag  Hill,  so  on  we  proceeded  in  good  spirit 
made  an  excellent  forenoon's  work  until  just  before  < 
time,  when,  in  descending  a  narrow  defile,  the  fore-ti 
the  foremost  and  largest  boiler- waggon  caught  agaii 
side  of  a  rock,  and  in  an  instant  the  pole,  alrea»ly  di 
at  the  Zigzag  Hill,  was  hopelessly  smashed,  and  the 
waggon  in  the  rear  could  not  possibly  pass.  Here  was 
a  difficulty  I  Nothing  in  the  shape  of  a  heavy  beam 
was  apparently  nearer  to  us  than  the  camp,  some  eigh 
distant^     Already  I  noticed  pleasure  in  the  countenai 


SUMMARY  OF   CAPTAIN   CHARLE WOOD'S  JOURNAL.  477 

the  men  at  the  prospect  of  being  allowed  to  return  to  their     APPX. 
liomes.     In  a  downcast  mood,  I  told  them  to  sit  down  and   > r-^ — ' 


«at  their  dinners,  and  then  strolled  to  a  small  hovel  or  house 
a  short  way  oflf  (the  only  one  within  a  range  of  some  miles), 
to  obtain  some  shelter  from  the  burning  heat  of  the  Sun. 
The  family  were  squatting  round  their  dish  of  pilau,  to  which 
I  was  invited.  I  then  stretched  myself  out  upon  my  back,  to 
Taminate  upon  my  hard  fate,  and  decide  the  diflScult  question 
— what  is  next  to  be  done  ? 

This  question  was  solved  in  a  moment,  for  upon  looking  How  the 
upwards  my  eyes  rested  upon  a  great  beam  which  stretched  ^*^q*^^^. 
along  the  length  of  the  house,  and,  in  fact,  supported  the  come. 
whole  roof.  In  an  instant  I  was  at  my  host's  side,  and,  to  his 
amazement,  offering  to  buy  his  house  at  a  handsome  price, 
provided  he  and  his  family  would  clear  out  instanter.  The 
sight  of  the  gold  *  gazis '  overcame  all  scruples :  by  the  time  my 
men  had  dined,  the  house  was  emptied,  and  half  a  dozen 
sailors  were  to  be  seen  tearing  oflF  the  roof  and  rolling  down 
the  beam.  In  short.,  the  new  pole  was  fitted,  and  the 
waggons  again  on  the  move,  within  an  hour  after  dinner- 
time. The  pole  was  nearly  double  the  size  of  the  broken 
one,  and  I  may  here  add  that,  although  the  poles  of  every 
other  waggon  were  repeatedly  broken  on  their  journeys,  this 
one  arrived  triumphantly  at  Port  William,  on  the  Euphrates, 
as  sound  as  when  my  sailors  fitted  it. 

To  describe  a  greater  portion   of  the  remainder  of  the 
portage  of  these  two  boilers  to  Antioch  would  be  a  repetition 
of  much  the  same  disasters — such  as  the  breakage  of  axles,  Digastew 
bolts,  guiding-poles,  &c.     The  roads  constructed  down  to  the  ?°  ^^^ 

JOUTDGy. 

two  mountain-torrents  (the  two  Kara-Chais)  were  highly  dan- 
gerous, and  in  easing  one  of  the  boilers  down  to  the  bed  of 
the  first  torrent  (at  this  time  nearly  dry),  the  men  holding 
back  by  the  dragropes  could  not  check  its  speed  suflSciently ; 
consequently  one  of  the  fore-trucks  came  against  a  large 
boulder,  broke  the  fan-axle,  and  maimed  the  legs  of  the  three 
nearest  oxen.  In  each  case  where  an  iron  axle  was  broken, 
a  whole  day  at  least  was  necessarily  lost  in  sending  it  to 
the  camp  for  repair. 

At  length,  during  the  forenoon  of  August  5,  we  arrived 
opposite  to  the   gates  of  Antioch ;   and   as  the  men  were 


478 


APPX. 


SUMMABT  OP  CAPTAIS  CIUHLEWOODS  JOCBNA: 


heartily  tired  of  their  work,  and  had  become  very  1. 

halted   close  to  the  bridge  across   the  Orontea   and 

Aninl  «t    that  I  might  avail  myself  of  the  opportuoitj  to  obt 

*"'*'''*■       Bervicea  of  a  cowass  from  the  Governor,  who  bad  b 

trcrtiely   attentive   to  all    our    requisitions.      Accoi 

shortly  after  we  bad  again  started  for  Guzelbuij,  a 

about  two  miles  beyond  Antiocb,  where  all  the  heavy 

were  transported  by  boats  through  the  Lake  of  Antio 

up  a  small  river  to  a  place  called  Miirad  Pacha,  ; 

Dificently-dressed  cowass  came  strutting  after  ua,  an( 

equally  magnificent  voice  ordered  the  cavalcade  to  s 

felt  charmed ' — now  at  last  we  had  a  man  who  would  k 

lazy  Syrians  to  their  work.     We  halted  in  silent  expi 

of  the  harangue  it  was  supposed  he  was  about  to 

Judge  my  surprise  when,  after  the  last  boUer-wagg 

Ab  IB-        stopped,  he  coolly  mounted  it,  seated  himself  in  a  com 

pfitnt        place,  and  then,  with  a  majestic  wave  of  the  hand,  dire 

men  to  proceed  !     This  was  too  much  I — it  evidently 

turn   to   act.      Btiming  with  anger,  I  again  direc 

waggons  to  stop,  and  summoned  the  cowass  to  di 

upon  which  he  condescendiogly  ordered  me  away:  in 

His  instant  he  was  rolling  in  the  dust  at  the  foot  of  the 

fumtnarj     amidst  the  fiantic  cheers  of  the  waggon-men.     Th< 

p<">"*'  .  .  . .   1       .        ,  -      .      , 

mrau  got  up  m  a  great  passion,  put  his  hand  on  his  pistol, 

sufficient  presence  of  mind  left  to  remember  that  *  di 

is  the  better  part  of  valour;'  he  therefore  contented 

with  showing  his  contempt  for  me  by  sundry  bcoi> 

turned  on  his  heel  and  marched  back  to  Antioch  am 

jeers  of  the  w(^gon-men,  who,  let  me  add,  worked 

iugly  well  for  the   rest  of  the   afternoon,    evident^ 

reward  for  my  having  bumbled  one  of  their  hated 

cowasses. 

GuK-lbwj.        ^^  *  arrived  at  Guzelburj  the  same  afternoon,  an 

this  lime  there  is  a  note  in  my  journal  to  the  eff 

Captain  Kstcotirt,  Lieutenant  Cleavelnnd,  and   mysi 

the  only  ejecutive  officers  then  fit  for  duty.   Colonel  ' 

Illnnta  nf     '''*"'  ^'^"  alarmingly  ill,  so  much  so  indeed  that  the 

th.'  iViu-     officer  in  conininnd  had  notified  tu  us  that  the  CoIoik 

""      "       was  hopeless.    To-day,  however,  our  spirits  were  che 

the  newM  of  his  convalescence.     His  kindness   and 


I// 


SUMMART  OF  CAPTAIN   CHARLEWOOD'S  JOURNAL.  479 

selectiDg  oflBcers  for  special  duties,  then  trusting  them  to     appx. 
carry  out  his  wishes,  and  when  successful  (as  was  almost   ^    ^-     , 
invariably   the   case)   giving  them  the   fullest   credit,   had 
endeared  him  to  all  who  really  had  at  heart  the  desire  to 
carry  through  this  arduous  transport. 

But  to  return  to  this  miserable  little  village  of  Guzel- 
buij,  with  its  hovels  plastered  with  buCFalo  dung,  and 
swarming  with  vermin.  Many  pleasing  recollections  are  RecoUec- 
brooght  to  my  mind  with  reference  to  it.  It  was  the  head-  Q-°^?^  • 
quarters  of  my  dear  friend  and  brother-officer,  Fitzjames, 
who  superintended  the  transport  of  the  stores  from  thence  to 
Murad  Pacha. 

Upon  one  occasion  when  I  again  arrived  with  some  wag- 
gons of  boilers,  I  found  everything  at  a  standstill ;  all  the 
boatmen  had  left,  and  Fitzjames  was  lying  in  his  tent,  niness  of 
apparently  insensible  with  a  raging  fever,  his  tongue  black  ^gitqameB. 
and  swollen,  with  one  large  blood-red  crack  across  it,  his 
Maltese  servant  being  the  only  person  with  him.  A  doctor 
was  at  once  sent  for  from  the  hospital  which  had  been 
established  in  Antioch.  Upon  his  arrival  he  shook  his  head 
Tcry  sagely,  pronounced  the  case  all  but  hopeless,  and  re- 
quested the  immediate  removal  of  the  patient  to  the  hospital. 
To  our  utter  astonishment,  Fitzjames  upon  this  opened  his 
eyes,  shook  his  head,  and  muttered,  *  I  will  die  here.'  The 
worthy  doctor  left  in  disgust;  and  as  it  was  necessary  for 
me  now  to  remain  at  Guzelburj  to  despatch  the  heavy 
weights  by  boats,  I  madp  my  patient  as  comfortable  as 
possible,  and  during  every  spare  moment  employed  myself 
dropping  water  gently  upon  his  poor  tongue.  He  took  little 
or  no  medicine,  but  the  water  continually  moistening  the 
tongue  evidently  had  a  surprising  eCFect. 

How  Fitzjames  gradually  improved,  and  at  last  was  able  to  His 
sit  upon  my  horse,  supported  by  me  whilst  walking  by  his  ^^^^ 
side : — how  upon  one  of  these  occasions  he  placed  his  dear  lescence. 
kind  hand  on  my  head,  and  with  the  tears  starting  from  his 
eyes  exclaimed,  *  Had  you  not  backed  me  up,  and  refused  to 
let  the  doctor  take  me  to  that  hospital,  I  should  now  be 
dead  :  I  shall  never  forget  your  kindness  to  me  ! ' — how  I  am 
certain  he  never  did  forget  it  to  the  date  of  his  death,  when 
Captain  of  H.M.S.  '  Erebus,'  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  ill-fated 


p 


BUIUIABT  OP  CAPTAIN  CHABLEWOOD  S  JOT 

Polar  Eipeditioa : — but  how  in  our  case  he  was 
lived  to  be  the  cheerful,  jovial  spirit  of  the  Euph 
ditioQ,  to  help  us  on  when  sickness  and  wearines 
lis  all : — these  tire  indeed  reminiscences  most  plea 
to  dwell  upon,  but  perhaps  uninteresting  to  the  geo 
Moreover,  it  is  evident  my  chapter,  written  with 
.  giving  some  idea  of  the  labour  and  difficulties  wit 
had  to  contend  in  transporting  our  two  steamei 
Mediterranean  to  the  River  Euphrates,  and  mon 
between  Suedia  and  Antioch,  is  now  epun  out  tc 
extent.     Here  therefore  I  must  end. 


MIL   FITZJAM£S'S   BEPORT.  481 


APPENDIX   X. 

BEPORT  BY  THE  IJiTE  MR.  (AFTERWARDS  CAPTAIN) 
JAMES  FITZJAMES,  R.N.  (1835). 

Mouth  of  the  Orontes,  June  1835. 

On  June  3,  Omar  Effendi  came  from  Antioch  with  a  mes-     appx. 
sage  from  Ibrahim  Pacha  to  the  Colonel,  to  the  eflFect  that        X. 
he  had  received  orders  from  Mehemet  Ali  Pacha,  his  father,  Leavefiom 
to  give  the  Expedition  all  possible  assistance,  and  that,  in  con-  Ibrahim 
sequence,  he  (Ibrahim)  had  ordered  the  Mutflellim  of  Antioch  the  ExS- 
to  collect  1,000  camels  and  a  number  of  oxen  for  us.     This  ditionto 
the  Colonel  had  been  apprised  of  by  a  messenger  who  arrived  o[^^' 
in  the  night  from  Mr.  Dibbs.  and  oxen 

Lieutenant  Lynch  joined  us  the  same  evening  from  Aleppo,  i^^^ 
and  the  following  day  attempted  to  get  up  the  Orontes  in  the  Lastcmise 
'Tigris;'  but  failing  in  the  attempt,  we  returned,  taking  the  ^^*f?^**' 
bank  in  several  places,  and  giving  her  several  most  severe  Orontefl. 
shocks,  owing  to  her  bad  powers  of  steerage. 

On  the  5th,  Yusuph  Saba  received  orders  from  Ibrahim  to  Oiden  for 
repair  the  road  to  Antioch,  which,  however,  had  been  pre-  ^pairing 
vioiLsly  done  by  Lieutenant  Lynch,  but  not  in  a  manner  to 
admit  of  the  passage  of  our  boilers ;  in  addition,  the  recent 
heavy  rains  have  much  injured  what  had  been  done,  particu- 
larly by  swelling  the  two  rivers.  Great  and  Lesser  Kara-Chai, 
and  the  numerous  streams  which  cross  the  line  of  road  to 
Antioch. 

At  noon  of  this  day  we  took  the  coals  oul  of  the  *  Tigris,'  Breaking 
and  dismounted  her  wheels  previous  to  breaking  her  up;  and  'ip'Tigru.' 
on  the  6th  Lieutenant  Lynch  left  to  see  the  Pacha,  and  with 
orders  to  get  the  road  cleared  between  Antioch  and  Birejik. 
I  w^as  this  day  ordered  by  the  Colonel  to  commence  levelling  Fint  w- 
and  otherwise  clearing  obstructions  on  the  road.     I  began  P*J?"*  ^ 
about  four  miles  off,  with  fifty  men,  most  of  whom  were  old 

and  almost  useless;  but  by  dint  of  constant  attention,  and 

I  I 


4S2  MB.  FnZJAMES's  REPOBT. 

APPX.  pointing  out  each  stone  which  I  wished  removed,  and  e? 
X.  pj^  I  wanted  cut  away,  I  succeeded  in  making  about  a  a 
and  a  half  tolerably  good.  I  was  assisted  by  Mr.  Michel,  n 
was  of  much  use  to  me  as  an  interpreter.  Mr.  Bell  was  s( 
on  to  a  hill  about  four  miles  from  the  camp,  which  from 
excessive  steepness  was  ascended  by  a  zigzag  road  to  t 
height  of  about  100  feet,  and  the  remainder  of  it  a  very  rod 
road.     Here  he  had  21  men  only  at  work. 

June  7. — I  had  only  21  men  on  the  road,  and  thej  d 
not  come  till  10  o'clock. 

June  8. — I  had  great  difficulty  in  procuring  m&i,  I 
10  A.M.  I  had  30,  collected  by  Mr.  Michel,  who  went  i 
Yusuph  Saba's. 


W\r^  tvnr       At  the  camp  55  camels  were  loaded  with  great  diflBcult; 
as  the  cameleers  would  only  take  the  lightest  loads,  and  thi 


only  after  a  great  deal  of  vexatious  talking  and  quarrelliii 

Three  of  them  cast  loads  a  mile  off. 
'  Tigris*  *  Tigris '  was  this  day  hauled  up  on  shore,  her  engines  beii 

cut  into       out,  and  the  men  were  employed  cutting  her  into  eigl 

^tctkmB.      sections. 

June  9. — I  had  only  21  men,  but  heard  that  Mr.  Bell  h 

45,  and  Lieutenant  Lynch  60  working  at  the  first  Kara-Clu 

I  continued  working  at  the  road  till  the  15th,  during  whi< 

time  I  had  always  more  or  less  difficulty  in  procuring  me 

Occasionally  we  had  heavy  rain  and  thunderstorms  to  inte 

nipt  us,  and  the  sun  in  the  middle  of  the  day  was  very  hot 

Natire  ^^  ^^^  meantime  the  *  Tigris '  was  cut  into  eight  section 

carpentere.  and  we  got  some  native  carpenters  from  Antioch  to  assist : 

makiui^  waggons.     200  bullocks  also  came  on  the  12th,  b 

Bad  bnl-     ^f^^^  fruitless  attempts  to  make  them  draw  weights,  we  di 

lock*  fimt    charged  them.     Lieutenant  Cleaveland  went  to  see  Ihrahi 

fiin*.  Pacha  on  the  14tJi,  to  state  the  want  of  attention  to  his  ordei 

The  Mat-  June  16. — The  Mutsellim  of  Antioch  arrived  by  order 
•ellim  f»f  the  Pacha  with  96  men,  who  carried  away  some  iron  ribs 
Su<HliM.        the  *  Euphrates. 

Sm^od  June  17. — Sent  away  60  camels,  loaded  after  great  dif 

^Jb""*'  culty— the  heaviest  weight  was  only  600  lbs.,  and  most 

under  ;   also  48   men  carrying  iron.      The  Mutsellim  ai 

the  Agha  of  the  district  being  in  attendance  on  the  181 

seventeen  horses  were  bought  for  drawing  the  waggons,  no 


MR.  FITZJAMES'S  REPOBT.  483 

f  which,  however,  had  ever  been  in  harness  before,  the  owners     APPX. 
«ing  averse  to  allow  them  to  attempt  to  draw,  although  the  ^     ^  _^ 
If  Qtsellim  used  his  utmost  endeavours. 

On  Jime  19  the  Colonel  ordered  me  to  take  the  diving- 
jell  truck  to  Antioch,  laden  with  iron  sheeting ;  but  I  was 
>bliged  to  desist,  as  the  bullocks  would  not  draw. 

June  20. — At  daylight  the  five  platform  waggons  (under 
[iieutenant  Cleaveland  and  Mr.  Eden)  started,  each  drawn  by 
'our  horses,  and  about  100  men  accompanied  them.  The  First  start 
leaviest,  however,  having  been  left  behind,  I  was  ordered  to  ^^lom^ 
ake  it  on.  I  therefore  started  with  four  horses  and  thirty  men 
it  the  dragropes,  and  got  it  as  far  as  the  first  stream,  about 
hree  miles  from  the  camp,  where  we  slept  in  a  cornfield. 

JuTie  21. — We  worked  hard  all  day,  beginning  at  3  a.m., 
ind,  by  taking  the  men  from  two  arabas  and  a  waggon  made 
>f  the  gun-slides,  laden  with  iron,  I  increased  our  force  to 
ipwards  of  60  men.  By  means  of  a  tackle,  we  got  it  over 
he  first  hill,  to  within  a  mile  of  where  Lieutenant  Cleave- 
and  was  with  the  other  four  waggons ;  but,  owing  to  the 
preat  difficulty  of  getting  them  up  the  hill  by  the  zigzag 
oad,  he  ordered  me  to  give  him  all  my  men,  which  in- 
reased  his  force  to  160,  who  dragged  the  waggons  up  one 
y  one. 

Jun^  22.— I  walked  back  to  the  camp,  starting  at  3  a.m..  Heavy 
nd  on  my  way  met  75  camels  laden  with  machinery,  stores,  <*"^  ^ 
be,  some  of  them  carrying  about  800  lbs.  Mr.  Clegg  accom- 
panied them.  I  also  passed  Mr.  Bassam,  who  was  bringing 
•n  the  large  truck  and  two  arabas  laden  with  iron.  In  the 
flemoon  I  started  again,  by  the  Colonel's  order,  and  got  one 
raggon  to  the  foot  of  the  large  hilL 

Jwru  23. —  Got  all  the  waggons  to  the  foot  of  the  hill.  Truck  and 
jid  the  large  truck  and  artillery  waggon  up  the  steepest  ^J^^g 
art  of  it.  Being,  however,  obliged  to  unload  the  former, 
ud  make  the  men  carry  the  plates  of  iron  to  the  top,  the 
ron  slipped  ofi"  the  latter  at  the  last  turning  and  nearly 
illed  a  man.  This  day  we  had  103  men  and  twenty  buj- 
ocks,  all  of  whom  were  hardly  sufficient  to  draw  the  waggons 
ne  at  a  time.  Fifty-three  camels  and  sixteen  mules  passed 
luring  the  day,  laden  with  iron,  casks,  machinery,  &c.  Lieu- 
enaut  Cleaveland  also  rode  to  the  camp  from  his  waggons, 

1  1  2 


i 


mXJ AMISS  REFOBT. 


«     I 


I 


bj  ni^ht.    We  slept  od  the  top 
sfrSile  of   the  night.  Captain  Ei 
pw  "*  -x^  <^  h^  vaj  to  the  eamp  from  Birejik. 

J^!B0f  ±4. — LHQteskant   ClemTelaDd  started  from  A 
•  •'"""         3^    3fc.   'KjOflftfoc  who   was  carrying  the    chronoi 

t  Sev-edT-Tcx  mok  aad  tve&tT  bollocks  dragged  the  tw 

^:a»  t.>  ikifr  Gr«as  Kara-OiaL     The  large  tnick  des 
'  w±z,  2?ear  Te^^citr  into  the  rirer,  on  account  of  i 

wiiaeL^  aspi  cmt  weight.     The  bnllockfi  were  taken  oi 
[  I  TM-  Sfcm  heid  on  behind  with  ropes.     We  crossed  th 

j  ^  as  JEAlf-podC  7  in  the  erening. 

I  J'kftitf  25- — Bt  carrring  the  loads  by  hand,  we  ( 

^  -BT^^ffi-c*  up  tbe  hill,  and  descended  again  into  the  set 

I  y,-,fVr    LhrL-e  Karft-Cba:«  an>i  before  dark  got  them  np  the 

f  KicKK        xi.*  «M^  sde.     Walking  on  for  an  hour,  I  found  Liei 

I  ^^^        CVare^az^i   and   two  artilleTT  waggons   in    a  comfi 

1  BjjL  Ml      haxis;^  discharged  his  knds  at  Antioch.     The  fieldpi 
riTe»i  wiih  two  artiteryroen. 

Jwme  WL — We  soC  br  sunset  to  within  three  miles 
txKh,  harix^  pafsed  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  re 
f:<casioBanT  unloading  the  truck  and  camrins  the 
hand.     £ighty-f:*ur    men    to-day.     Lieutenant    Cle 
poiccd  with  the  two  artiU^y  waggons. 

J^KK^  27. — Got  both  waggons  to  the  gate  of  ^ 
vbere  I  found  two  platform  waggtms  encamped  nnde 
of  Mr.  Eden :  Lieutenant  Murphy  being  employed  r 


i  FoK  ocTL'  the  Foad  to  SjexEer  Hadid,  just  outside  the  town. 

^*^^"^  *1-    the  waggon  I  brought  with  Lawrie  to  the  village  ol 


burj.  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Orontes,  four  mik 

Antitjoo,  where  he  imloaded  and  brought  it  back  t( 

paineti — the  pole  being  broken — learii^  the  truck  i 

Eden.     Mr.  Ainsworth  arrived,  having,  in  company  n 

Bell,  taken  two  boatloads  of  iron  up  the  lake  and  t 

Pacha  Bridge. 

Track ud        June    28. — This    morning    Mr.   Eden    took    th 

J^®5^       across  the  bridge  and  through  the  town,  which,  f 

ABtMck.      large  stones  and  sharp  tiunings,  was  no  easy  operat 

the  afternoon  the  other  two  wi^gons  were  got  throi 

all  encamped  about  a  mile  off.     They  were  dragged 

by  the  tanners,  who  turned  out  about  thirty  in  nui 


MR.   FITZJAMES'S  BEPORT.  485 

addition  to  the  horses.  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  arrived  with  the     APPX. 
other  two  artillery  waggons  kden  with  iron,  and  Mr.  Charle-   ^    ^'  _. 


wood,  who  had  brought  four  keelsons  up  the  Orontes  from  the  Keelsont 
camp.     Lieutenant  Cleaveland  returned  thither  in  the  even-  ^  ^^ 
ing.     Lieutenant  Murphy  was  at  this  time  working  in  the 
house  hired  for  the  expedition,  where  we  always  lived  when 
at  Antioch. 

June  29. — Captain  Estcourt  arrived,  and  having  ordered 
me  to  repair  the  road  towards  Djezzer  Hadid,  I  proceeded 
to  St.  Paul's  Gate,  and  set  thirty  men  to  work,  who  however 
did  but  little,  as  they  were  very  lazy,  and  the  cowass  who  was 
with  them  did  nothing.     Lieutenant  Cleaveland  passed  on 
to  Gilzelburj  with  his  two  artillery  waggons,  and   Captain 
Estcourt  went  down  to  the  camp.     In  the  evening  Omar  Omar 
Effendi  paid  us  a  visit,  and  said  that  he  had  been  ordered  by  ^^^ 
Ibrahim  Pacha  to  remain  at  Antioch  till  everything  belong-  aasistua. 
ing  to  the  Expedition  had  passed,  the  Pacha  being  then  at 
Adana. 

June  30. — Lieutenant  Cleaveland  took  the  two  artillery  Artillery 
waggons,  which   went   to   Guzelburj    yesterday,   to  Djezzer  J^^W^**" 
Hadid  Bridge  in  country  boats  to  join  Mr.  Eden's  waggons.  Hadid. 
Captain  Estcourt  having  directed  me  to  take  the  four  keelsons 
which  had  been  left  about  two  miles  below  Antioch  on  to 
Guzelburj,  I  went  thither,   having  been    assured  by  Omar  Morekeel- 
£ffendi  that  men  would  be  there  to  bring  them  up ;  but  none  «>n8  up 
made  their  appearance.    While  there  six  more  keelsons  came     ^^  ^' 
up  the  Orontes,  tracked  by  some  twenty  men,  who  left  them 
with  the  other  four. 

July  1. — I  took  one  of  our  small  boats  from  the  place 
where  it  had  been  lying  with  the  keelsons  up  to  Guzelburj  ; 
it  was  easily  rowed  up  the  river,  and  hauled  over  the  weirs, 
of  which  there  are  five  above  Antioch. 

July  2. — Captain   Estcourt  having  directed  me  to  take  Take 
charge  of  the  depot  forming  at  Guzelburj,  I  pitched  two  tents  Je^^^ 
there,  and  took  up  my  abode  with  one  seaman ;  and  this  Guzelbuij. 
day  the  first  detachment  of  two-wheeled  waggons,  or  arabas, 
arrived  with  some  heavy  pieces  of  machinery,  and  on  the 
following  day  one  more  with  iron  plates — also  two  keelsons 
came  up  the  river. 

The  road  beyond  Antioch  by  Djezzer  Hadid  having  been 


486 


MR.  F1TZJAMES*S  REPORT. 


APPX. 
X, 


of 
ipoi 
•lUfftd. 


cnp- 
tioo  Of 
Oftielboq. 


Botta. 


NatiTM. 


Iroo 

brooght 

bftckftom 


Goto 
Suodift* 


AnbM 
Uken  bj 

IMtiTM. 


found  too  bad,  Captain  Estcourt  determined  on  sending  a 
the  things  to  Miirad  Pacha  by  water. 

Guzelburj  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Oronte 
on  a  point  formed  by  a  bend  of  the  river,  which  is  here  aboi 
50  yards  wide,  2^  fiBithoms  deep,  and  the  current  varyii 
from  two  to  three  knots  per  hour. 

There  are  not  above  twenty  houses,  and  the  inhabitants- 
who  are,  as  I  was  given  to  understand.  Fellahs — gain  a  livi 
lihood  by  their  boats,  which  they  work  up  to  Murad  Rid 
Bridge,  and  up  the  Orontes,  bringing  com  to  the  mills  < 
Antioch,  and  occasionally  passengers,  besides  rushes  gatherc 
from  the  lake  for  mats,  i&c. 

These  boats  are  37  feet  long,  5  feet  broad,  and  4  feet  deei 
perfectly  flat-bottomed,  and  propelled  by  a  man  on  the  sten 
who  pushes  with  a  long  pole ;  occasionally  they  have  anothi 
poler  forward. 

Large  herds  of  buffaloes  come  in  every  evening  to  1 
milked,  finding  pasture  during  the  day  on  the  iinmen 
plains  which,  extending  to  the  Lake  of  Antioch,  sprei 
themselves  onwards  to  the  Taurus  Mountains.  I  alwa 
found  the  men  civil,  but  probably  through  fear,  as  thi 
occasionally  refused  to  sell  us  articles  of  food. 

The  Sheikh  was  a  very  nice  man  and  worked  hard  for  u 
but  he  died  after  I  had  been  there  a  short  time,  and  I 
successor  was  very  lazy  and  avaricious,  and  only  got  woi 
done  when  obliged  to  do  so  by  threats  of  reporting  li 
conduct  to  Ibrahim  Pacha,  of  which  he  was  in  great  terror. 

After  sending  four  boats  to  Djezzer  Hadid  to  fetch  the  ire 
back,  and  discharging  two  arabas  with  heavy  machinery, 
rode  down  to  the  camp  at  Suedia  on  July  6,  by  order 
Captain  Estcourt,  meeting  on  my  way  one  of  the  sections  of  tl 
'  Tigris '  on  a  four-wheeled  waggon,  and  one  of  the  large  fla 
boats,  also  mounted  on  four  wheels,  with  Mr.  Charlewood,  wl 
had  not  sufficient  men.  All  the  blacksmiths  were  workii 
hard  to  complete  some  waggons  for  the  boilers,  and  we  we 
employed  mounting  some  boilers  and  sections  of  the  '  Tigri 
on  their  respective  waggons,  several  arabas  with  machine 
being  sent  on  with  parties  of  natives,  who  were  paid  befoi 
hand  a  certain  sum,  varying  to  200  piastres,  for  the  joum 
to  Guzelburj.     They  seldom  or  never  broke  their  engag 


MR.  FITZJAMES'S  REPORT.  487 

mentis,  and  that  only  when  the  waggon  broke  down,  which     appx. 
was  but  too  often  the  case,  or  had  got  so  immovably  fixed  ,     ^'  ^ 
in  a  ditch  or  stream,  as  to  require  more  energy  than  they 
pofisefised  to  extricate  it. 

Thirty-three  mules  started  on  the  morning  of  the   8th,  Powder 
laden  with  powder,  and  the  blacksmiths  and  riveters,  to  com-  Jj*^^"°' 
mence  putting  up  the  *  Euphrates '  at  Birejik ;  and  on  the  9th  phrates.' 
twenty  mules  more  with  rockets  and  baggage.     On  the  10th 
the  Colonel  started  with  more  men  and  riveters  to  join  the 
powder  caravan. 

July   10. — I  was    this  day   employed  widening  the  road  v^Tidemng 
into  the  Great  Kara-Chai  with  fifteen  men,  which  were  all  that  «»4  ^^^ 
came,  notwithstanding  our  repeated  applications  for  more. 
At  this   time   the   flat-boat   and   three   arabas  were    lying  Flat-boat 
broken  down   between  the   two  Kara-Chais.     Having  pro-  ^^J^e!^ 
ceeded  to  where  the  former  lay — to  wit,  in  a  narrow  lane,  with 
the  wheels  axledeep  in  mud — I  received  orders  from  Lieu- 
tenant Cleaveland  by  a  Maltese  to  take  Mr.  Charlewood's 
place  with  the  waggons,  and  send  him  back  to  mend  the 
road.    I  therefore  proceeded  to  Antioch,  where  I  found  that 
the  section  of  the  *  Tigris '  had  passed  on  to  Guzelburj,  and 
that  the  Colonel  had  gone  on  to  Birejik. 

On  the  following  day  I  went  to  Omar  EflFendi  at  the  serfu, 
For  an  order  to  get  men  for  the  flat.  He  referred  me  to  the 
BIutEellim,  giving  me  a  note  for  him,  which  I  took  to  him, 
but  got  no  men.  I  therefore  wrote  again  to  Omar  EflFendi  in 
the  evening,  stating  the  circumstances.  The  next  day  (12th) 
[  went  out  to  the  flat  and  waited  till  2  p.m.,  when  Ibrahim 
Efifendi  came  with  fifty  men  and  ten  bullocks ;  and  after  an  Flat-boat 
bourns  hard  work,  aided  by  his  personal  exertions,  we  sac-  &ot  outof 
needed  in  extricating  the  flat  from  the  gutter,  and  got  it  to 
the  top  of  the  hill  over  the  second  Kara-Chai.  At  this  time 
>ne  cylinder  of  the  *  Euphrates'  and  another  araba  were  lying 
in  a  stream  near  Antioch,  broken  down. 

July    13. — The    flat    having  a  bolt  broken,  I  got  it  re-  ^Ibx 
paired  at  Antioch,  which  delayed  us  till  2  p.m.,  the  men  and  broken 
)ullocks  waiting  in  the  adjoining  fields ;  but  we  got  it  within    ^^'*' 
;wo  miles  of  Antioch,  and  the  next  time  it  broke  in  three  diflfer- 
mt  places ;  the  last  was  one  wheel  splitting  in  two,  not  having 
>eeQ  properly  fellored.  I  therefore  made  the  people  take  out 


488 


UJL  FTTZJAMES'S  REPORT. 


APPX. 
X. 


Ptiddl*- 


Xr.  B^'s 


rired  at 

Track  and 
iioB  in 
boaU  from 
Dj«ner 
Hadid. 


Repairing 
roaid  ba- 
tween  An- 
tiocfa  and 
Oftaelboij. 

Two  lec- 
tions arrira 
atO&JEel- 
boij. 


Section 

braaking 

down. 


the  two  gin-poles  and  baggage,  which  they  carried  to  Guze 
buij,  and  I  discharged  them,  leaving  the  boat  a  quarter  of 
mile  from  Antioch. 

July  15. — Lieutenant  Cleaveland  sent  Frew,  the  carpente 
to  repair  the  flat ;  also  an  order  to  get  the  iron  then  at  Djez» 
Hadid  taken  to  Guzelburj.  I  accordingly  wrote  to  Odu 
Effendi  to  order  the  boatmen  to  do  as  required. 

July  16. — The  four  paddle-beams  arrived,  having  broke 
down  twice  near  Antioch,  and  finally  halfway  to  Guze 
buij.  Mr.  Rassam  arrived  from  Gindareez  to  assist  Qi 
and  Mr.  Bell  came  down  from  Murad  Pacha  in  a  boat,  rer 
ill.  I  applied  for  twenty  men,  but  only  got  ten,  and  ele?e 
bullocks,  which  took  the  flat  to  Guzelburj. 

July  18. — The  iron  arrived  from  Djezzer  Hadid  in  fi^ 
boats,  vrith  the  diving-bell  truck.  I  completed  five  good  boa 
of  1^  to  2  tons  each,  and  sent  them  up  to  Nomad  Pach 
The  following  day  I  sent  Mr.  Sassam  to  Snedia  with  foi 
empty  arabas.  In  the  evening  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  can 
in  to  buy  necessary  articles,  such  as  pitch,  rope,  &c.,  and  < 
procure  money,  having  left  three  sections  of  the  'Tigris'  ai 
one  boiler  broken  down  near  the  camp  at  Suedia. 

July  2 1 . — I  commenced  repairing  the  road  between  Antio< 

and  Guzelburj  with  twenty-six  men,  and  also  worked  wi 

them  the  following  day;  and  on  the  23rd  I  went  out 

where  the  section  of  the  *  Tigris '  was  lying,  five  miles  fro 

Antioch,  to  get  it  repaired,  while  Lieutenant  Cleaveland  ai 

Mr.  Charlewood  passed  on  to  Guzelburj  with  two  sectia 

and  one  of  the  bedplates  of  the  '  Euphrates  *  on  wheels ;  h 

one  of  them  and  the  bedplate  broke  down  one  mile  fro 

Antioch.     Lieutenant  Cleaveland  and  Mr.  Charlewood  we 

back  to  Suedia,  and  I  got  blacksmiths  from  Antioch  to  r 

pair  them ;  the  next  day  the  bedplate  got  on  to  Guzelbu 

On  July  25  I  got  the  section  from  Antioch  to  Guzelbi 
with  a  party  of  Turcomans   and   their  bullocks,  who  h 

remained  by  it     The  following  day  was  employed  getti 

the  blacksmiths  and  carpenters  to  work  for  the  other  sectia 

of  the  'Tigris,'  and   having  on  the  27th  sent  a  carpeni 

to  repair  it^  I  got  it  on  to  Antioch  on  the  evening  of  t 

28tb,  with  twenty-seven  men   and   twelve  bullocks,  whi 

were  very  bad.      It  then   broke  down  again.      It  was  i 


MK.  FITZJAMES'S   REPORT.  489 

paired  the  following  day  and   got  to  Guzelbiirj,  where   I     APPX. 
found  the  smallpox  raging  amongst  the  inhabitants. 


July  31. — I  was  obliged  to  write  a  strong  letter  to  Omar 
Effendi   about  the  unwillingness  of  the  men  at  Guzelburj 
to  start  with  our  machinery;  and  on  August  1,  having  pro- 
ciured  seven  workmen  from  Antioch,  I  loaded  the  flat  with  Flat 
heavy  pieces  of  machinery.  loaded. 

August  3. — After  several  fruitless  applications  at  Antioch 
for  carpenters  to  repair  the  native  boats,  they  at  last  arrived, 
and  the  flat  started,  poled  by  six  men. 

August  5. — Lieutenant  Cleaveland  sent  for  me  to  Antioch  Two 
from  GOzelburj  to  get  money  from  Mr.  Dibbs,  and  Mr.  Char-  5?-*^®j?*^ 
lewood  arrived  with  two  boilers  of  the  *  Euphrates.'     They 
both  returned  to  Suedia  the  following  day ;  and  the  native 
boats  having  been  repaired  were  launched,  four  in  number,  and  j^^^j  ^ 
loaded  the  next  day  with  the  remainder  of  the  plates  of  the  boats  re- 
*  Euphrates  '  and  some  heavy  machinery.  paired. 

August  7. — At  10  a.m.  I  went  to  Antioch,  where  I  found  Death  of 
that  the  seaman,  James  Brown,  had  just  died  at  our  house,  J.  Brown, 
where  he  had  been  lying,  attended  most  kindly  by  Mr.  Haage,  ..  j, 
a  Polish  surgeon  in  the  Pacha's  service.  Dr.  Staunton  airived 
a  few  minutes  after  his  death,  and  returned  again  to  Suedia. 
Not  having  any  men  with  me,  I  judged  it  expedient  to  have 
him  interred  according  to  the  rites  of  the  Greek  Church, 
which  was  done  by  applying  to  Mr.  Dibbs,  and  he  was  buried  Burial  of 
in  the  Frank  burial-ground  east  of  the  town.  ^'  Brown. 

August  8. — Captain  Estcourt  came  from  El-Haman,  and  To  Suedia 
Lieutenant  Cleaveland  came  in  for  money  in  the  evening,  ^^ 
which,  as  was  often  the  case,  we  borrowed  from  Mr.  Dibbs.  Eateoupt 
We  all  three  rode  down  to  Suedia  in  the  nierht.     I  returned  i?^  Lieut. 

Clcavo- 

the  next  day  with  Captain  Estcourt  and  Lieutenant  Murphy,  land, 
the  former  going  on  to  El-Haman. 

At  this  time  there  were  ready  mounted  on  waggons  at  State  of 
Suedia,  three  boilers,  two  sections  of  the  '  Tigris,'  one  cylin-  ^"""P^*^- 
der  of  the  *  Euphrates,'  and  one  bedplate  of  the  *  Tigris,' 
waiting  for  men  and  bullocks,  although  the  Mutsellim  of 
Antioch  was  there. 

On  the  12th,  Captain  Estcourt  returned  again,  and  on  the  Visit  to 
following  day,  in  company  with  liieutenant  Murphy  and  PaciuJ"^ 
myself,  paid  a  visit  to  Ibrahim  Pacha  on  his  return  from 


I 


] 


490  MB.  FIBJAUBS'S  BKPOIT. 

.APPX.     Adaoju     He  vu  toy  anl,  spoke  much  about  the  si 

.  ^  .  Europe,  sad  paiticiilArljr  of  the  Busnans,  whom  he  i 
■hould  much  wish  to  go  to  war  with.  Nothing  w: 
about  the  Expeditioa.  Omar  Effendi  acted  as  inteipi 
Tbe  nme  day,  our  flat  and  all  the  boats  rtturaei 
Hurad  Pacha,  and  I  loaded  the  former  again  the  m 
and  cent  it  ofL 

KarfHM         August  14. — Captain  Eatcourt  came  to  Guzelbuij,  . 

^  test  off  to  Gindareez,  with  some  trouble,  four  of  thi 

pieces  of  keelson  end-jHecea  on  four  horaea. 

Augfui  16. — All  the  boats  went  again  to  Murad  Pac! 
loads,  two  with  iron  and  two  with  keelsons.  Captain  E 
left  for  El-Haman,  and  in  the  evening  Lieutenant  C1& 
arriTed  with  the  other  targe  fiat-bo.it  on  wheels,  havi 
three  boilers  and  a  section  four  or  five  miles  from  Ai 
one  of  the  boilers  had  capsized ;  two  half-sections  o 
from  Suedia  with  natives,  on  large  two-wheeled  araba 

Rwka  Augv^  17. — I  sent  fourteen  horse-loads  of  plank  (' 
van  ')  to  Gindareez.  lo  tbe  evening.  Lieutenant  Clei 
came  in,  having  left  the  boilers  a  mile  off.  The  a 
Lieutenant  Cleaveland  went  back  to  Suedia,  and  I  got 

BoOm  w    the  boilers  to  Giiselburj  by  1 1  a.m.,  but  could  not  ; 

***"'''^-  Turcomans  to  take  back  the  empty  waggons ;  they  all 
over  the  river,  and  I  observed  that  the  natives  of 
burj  would  not  ferry  them  over,  on  account  of  t 
ference  of  religions  opinions.  On  tbe  following  day, 
got  the  other  boiler  repaired,  and  procured  men  fron 
Effendi,    I   took    it   to   Guzelburj    with  twelve   oxt 

Boaiai*-     thirty-three  men.     The  same  evening   tbe  boats  n 

'""*  from  Miir«d  Pacha. 

August  23.— I  went  oat  to  the  road  to  bring  in  a ' 
drawn  by  six  horses,  nnder  charge  of  Harrison  (artillei 

aadkadid  uid  at  Guzelbuij   loaded  our  flat  and  all    the    boat 

^'^  Tery  heavy  machinery,  and  started  them  all  next  ds 

the  borae-w^iggon  and  its  load,  sending  tbe  horses 
north  road  to  Miitad  Pacha. 

^"™  This  ends  my  proceedings  at  Guzelburj,  as  on  th 

I  was  taken  ill,  and  suffered  so  much  &om  fever  ai 

j^-^**^  tually  to  prevent  my  exerting  myself  at  alL  Mr.  Chai 
took  my  place*  aod  having  embarked  nearly  all   I 


/// 


7 


MB.  FITZJAMBS'S  REPORT.  491 

mainder  of  the  stores,  went  to  Murad  Pacha  on  Septem-     APPX. 
her  24.  .     ^     . 

On  December  10  Dr.  Staunton  advised  me  to  go  to  Port 
William,  and  finding  from  Mr.  Eden,  who  had  just  arrived, 
that  the  Colonel  wished  me  to  go,  and  also  feeling  that  I 
should  not  get  clear  of  ague  till  I  did,  I  made  a  start  for  Amval  at 
Port  William,  where  I  arrived  on  December  16.  ^^ 

JAMES  FITZJAMES. 

To  Lieut.  Cleaveland,  &c. 


492 


MR.  AINBWOBTn'S  JOURNEY  TO    GONSTANT150PLE. 


APPX. 
XL 


PUinsoT 
Bugdad 


I 


nver. 


Wild 


APPENDIX   XL 

REPORT    OF    A    JOURI>EY    FROM    BAGDAD    TO  CON 
STANTINOPLE  VlA  KURDISTAN  (1837). 

BY  WILLIAM  AINSWORTH. 

Left  Bagdad,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Christian  Bassam,  on  Wed- 
ue^lay,  February  1,  1837,  and  traversed  the  low  level  plaii 
which  stretches  far  and  wide  around  the  City  of  the  Khalipb 
to  the  post-house  of  Dukala.  The  plain  was  in  places  inter 
sected  by  canals  of  irrigation,  and  cultivated,  especially  nea 
the  River  Tigris,  but  its  general  feature  was  barrenness.  Th 
course  of  the  highway  was  marked  by  bleached  heads  ( 
camels,  oxen,  and  mules,  and  that  so  distinctly  that  it  woul 
liave  been  impossible  to  have  gone  astray,  even  without 
guide.  It  is  difficult,  however,  for  a  stranger  to  find  his  ws 
across  these  plains  without  such — they  are  so  intersected  I 
canals,  and  the  roads  are  etfaced  by  the  rains  and  drougl 
alike.  The  only  objects  of  interest  on  this  first  day's  jounw 
were  the  well-known  Tomb  of  Lokman,the  ruined  castle  calk 
Kalah  Sakmasi,  and  a  group  of  date-trees  around  Eh 
Jidida,  our  restingplace. 

The  next  day  (February  2)  we  travelled  over  a  siinil 
country,  watered  by  derivatives  from  the  Khalis  Canal,  itse 
derived  from  the  Diyalah  river;  and  passed  several  villap 
all  alike  consisting  of  beehive  huts  enclosed  within  mi 
walls,  and  a  few  sepulchral  tombs  with  groups  of  date>tre 
—  trees  spared  probably  on  account  of  their  sanctity.  ^ 
rested  at  JizanT,  another  lonely  khan  in  the  wilderness, 
heavy  thunderstorm  during  the  night  rendered  the  mud  ve 
slippery  the  next  day  (February  3).  We  crossed  the  Kha 
Canal,  where  it  was  sixty  paces  in  width,  by  a  bridge  of  fo 
arches.  Several  wild  boars  were  met  with  on  the  way,  ai 
we  shot  a  couple  of  desert  grouse  {Pth^ocles).  Just  befc 
arriving  at  the  khan  of  Delli  Abbas,  or  <  Mad  Abbas,'  t 


MB.  AINSWORTIl'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  493 

liorse    of   Pedro,  a  Portuguese   boy  who   accompanied  us,     APPX. 
stumbled,  and  the  boy  falling  on  his  hand  broke  the  radius  -_    /   ^ 


of  the  right  arm.  There  being  no  wood,  we  got  some  reeds  The  boy 
from  the  canal,  and  splitting  them  made  a  very  comfortable  a^^ident. 
contrivance  for  keeping  the  parts  in  apposition;  and  the  elbow 
l)eing  bent  to  relax  the  biceps,  and  the  arm  tied  up  to  the 
chest,  the  boy  was  enabled  to  continue  his  journey  the  next 
day,  and  no  untoward  symptoms  interfered  with  the  slow 
progress  of  recovery. 

Four  miles  beyond  Delli  Abbas  (February  4)  we  came  to 
the  Hamrin  or  *  Red  Hills,'  justly  so  named,  being  for  the  The  Ham- 
most  part  composed  of  supracretaceous  red  sandstones,  very  ft^'jimiiB' 
bare  and  waterwom.      Vegetation  was    already  prolific  in 
favoured   spots   among  these   hills,  and  some  places  were 
clothed  with   flowering  crocus  and   narcissus.     Passing  the 
Nahr-rin,  or  (as  Mr.  Kich  has  it)  the  *Nareeu,'  forty  feet  wide 
by  two  feet  in  depth,  we  came  upon  an  extensive  plain,  called 
(after  a  village  with  a  lofty  mound  attached  to  it)  Kara 
Teppeh — *  Black  or  Ruinous  Hill.'  The  village  itself,  where  we 
rested  for  the  night,  contained  about  400  huts,  and  there  is 
a  small  burial-ground  on  the  mound  to  the  south.    Mr.  Rich,* 
who  carried  on  some  excavations  here,  found  urns  with  bones; 
and  he  thinks  it  must  have  been  a  Dakma,  or  place  where  the 
fire-worshipping  Persians  of  Sassanian  times  exposed  their 
dead  bodies.     The  people  call  the  mound  Namaz-Kilan  Tep-. 
peh,  or  *  The  Mount  of  Prayer.' 

Crossing  the  Tchaman  watercourse  the  next  day  (Febiiiary 
5)  by  a  dangerous  bridge,  we  traversed  several  ranges  of  low 
rocky  hills,  and  arrived  in  the  afternoon  at  Kifri,  a  small  Town  of 
town   with    about    1,200    houses,    enclosed  within   a    mud  ^**^"' 
■wall,  and   situated  at  the  foot  of  higher  hills    to  the  SE. 
These  hills  are  composed  of  red  sandstone,  clay,  gypsum.  Mineral 
and  freshwater  limestones,  with  some  beds  of  salt  and  bitu-  formation. 
minous  shales,  and  they  are  remarkable  for  their  abundant 
naphtha  springs.      The  hills  attain  an  elevation  of  from  500 
to   600  feet  above  the  plain,  and  course  in  a  remarkably 
straight  line  from  N.  TO"*  E.  to  S.  70^  W. 

There  are  many  breaks  or  gaps  in  this  range,  through 
which  mountain  torrents,  and  in  some  instances  perennial 

*  *  Narrative  of  a  Residence  in  Kurdistan,'  vol,  i.  p.  13. 


An 


Ml.  USBTOnH'S  JOCBSJET  TO  OOSSIABIIirOPU 


AFFX.  rtranu,  find  their  way;  tad  tbeae  g^  have  for  thi 
.  _  .  part  been  defended  1^  walls  in  oldeo  times,  and  the  a 
dammed  npu  Such,  at  Ki&i,  ia  the  Kori-^lhai,  or  '  Dry 
apon  wbu^  are  aome  mina  half  a  mile  SE.  of  the 
and  east  of  which  is  a  large  high  mound  contaiiung, 
ami  with  bones,  ai  at  Kant  Teppefa,  and  whit^  Bic 
S^if  tW  refets  to  the  epodi  of  the  Sananian  fire-wcffdiippera. 
conntiy  would,  from  the  ahondance  of  naphtha,  natnn 
a  favoured  place  of  residence  with  the  fire-wonhippei 
as  was  the  case  with  parts  of  Snsiana  and  Laristan, 
few  Par^  are  still  to  be  oiet  with  at  Baku  on  the  C 
Se».  There  are  traces  of  bnildings  to  be  aeen  aroui 
mound  at  Kifiri,  havii^  square  baaements  like  thoee  a 
ShiifD.  Above  Kifri  itaelf  are  also  vestiges  of  a  wa 
bagments  of  solid  buildings,  iqiparently  towers  of  de 
and  futher  up  the  torrent  are  some  sepulchral  grott 
which  the  rock;  shdrea  for  the  hodies  are  still  Tieible. 
Seven  miles  to  the  SW^  oa  the  plain,  are  the  ruins  ( 
(or'Old')  Kifri  Here  is  an  immense  artificial  mound, 
almost  perpendicular  side^  except  where  the  raini 
made  deep  cuts  or  furrows.  Rich  dug  up  urns  with 
at  this  place,  and  he  considers  it  to  be  another  relic  < 
sanian  fire-worahippers.  There  are  several  other 
mounds  in  the  neigh  boarbood,  one  of  the  largest  of  n 
called  Ash-Tukan. 

Beyond  Kifri  the  plain  of  Bayad,  or  Beiat  (so  calle 
the  Turcoman  tribe  frequenting  it),  slopes  down  gn 
from  the  Kifri  Hills  to  the  Valley  of  Tchaman.  It  ii 
vated  in  parts,  and  dotted  with  the  mounds  of  Sassanii 
worshippers.  Passing  one  of  these  mounds  with  a 
caetlef'Kizzel  Kharaba' of  Rich,  but  our  informants  q 
Kiz  Kalabsi,  *  Oirls'  or  Maiden  Castle'),  we  came  to  a 
large  Sassaoian  raound,  fourteen  miles  from  Kifri, 
Uniki  Imam,  from  a  Mahommedan  tomb,  and  close  by 
are  q  aphtha  springs. 

We  arrived  the  same  evening  (Monday,  February  6)  i 
Khurmati,  or  Khunnati;  but  before  entering  the  tov 
to  ford  the  Ak-Su,  or  White  River,  a  tribntary  to  the  i 
or  Adhaym.  This  stream  passes  through  a  gap  in  th 
which  are  here  designated  as  the  Jebel  All  in  Arabic,  a 


'■/I 


MB.  AWSWORTH'S  journey  TO  CONSTANTIKOPLK.  495 

Tagh  by  the  Turks,  from  a  *  kurabet '  (or  dome)  on  one  of  the     APPX. 
hois,  which  is  said  to  commemorate  the  spot  where  AH  once  .  ^    _^ 
peketed  his  horse. 

The  population  of  Tuz-Khurmati  is  estimated  at  about  Tuz 
5,000  souls,  and  the  town  is  surrounded  by  gardens  of  date,  ^^'"™*^ 
orange,  lemon,  fig,  apricot,  pomegranate,  and  olive  trees. 
The  people  are  Turkish  and  mostly  Ismaelians,  and  Rich 
believed  there  were  among  them  Tchiragh  Sundirans,  or  *ex- 
tinguishers  of  lights.'  The  ruins  of  an  old  Christian  church 
(Syrian  or  Chaldean)  are  met  with  west  of  the  town.  The 
pass  in  the  hills  was  also  in  olden  times  defended  by  a  wall 
with  towers,  of  which  all  that  remains  in  the  present  day  are 
fragments  of  a  castellated  structure  and  of  the  wall. 

We  passed  the  next  day  in  exploring  the  celebrated  naphtha  Naphtha 
springs  in  the  hills  in  the  neighbourhood.     These  springs,  "P"?^,  "* 
and  the  nature  of  the  wells  from  which  they  are  derived,  aie 
80  minutely  described  in  the  Report  on  the  geological  portion 
of  the  Euphrates  Expedition  (published  under  the  title  of 
'Researches  in  Assyria,  &c.')  that  it  is  needless   to  enter 
here  upon  purely  scientific  details.     Suffice  it  to  say  that  the 
springs    are    thermal,   that   they  give  oflF  hydrosulphurous 
acid,    and    that   some    of  them    contain    salt    as    well    as 
naphtha.     The  value  of  the  produce  of  the  latter  is  estimated 
at  20,000  piastres  per  annum.     The  decomposition  of  the 
hydrosulphurous  acid  also  gives  birth  to  deposits  of  sulphur 
and  alum  in  an  effervescent  state.     It  is  said  that  about 
30  pints  of  naphtha  may  be  skimmed  off  the  surface  in 
twenty-four   hours.     The  barometrical  indications  gave  an 
approximate  elevation  for  Tuz-KhurmatT  of  114  feet  above  Elevation 
Bagdad.     The  plain  inclined  hence  by  a  very  gentle  slope  °[*^® 
towards  the  Hamrin  Hills,  and  there  were  several  mills  along 
the  course  of  the  river,  each  of  which  had  a  mud  tower 
attached  to  it,  in  which  to  post  a  guard — all  the  places  on  the 
Kurdish  border  being  exposed  to  inroads   from  robbers  of 
that  nation. 

As  we  proceeded  in  a  north-westerly  direction  on  Wed- 
nesday, February  8,  the  hills  kept  gradually  diminishing  in 
height  till,  about  eight  miles  beyond  Tuz-KhurmatT,  they 
almost  descended  to  the  level  of  the  plain.  Halfway  be- 
tween Tuz  Khurmati  and  Ta-uk  (*  Place  of  Fowls ')  two  beds 


I    i    r^^^l  ""'^  '^  niioous  nn'uaret  to  distinguieh  it,  w 

n^^f  Saroii  and  tbe  Repulchnd  toinl)  and  chapel 

J]  H  ('TIieBcst  of  Hermits'),    Tbere  are  also  ruic 

1  H  tiaD  church. 

1   n  EiAQk.  From  Ta-uk  to  Kirkuk  we  travelled  (ou  Th 

9)  over  plains  of  nearly  similar  character 
travprfied  for  tbe  la^t  three  days — only  more 
watercourses,  and  better  cultivated  in  c< 
more  villages.  To  the  west  of  Ta-uk  was  tl 
ill)  also  Jurnaila,  'The  Pretty  Little  One' 
'  lieyond  Matara,  which  gives  ita  name  to  a  i 

hills.  There  were  many  'tels'  or  niouudsou 
which,  dosignated  Tamaranda,  bod  perpendi 
lurge  village,  with  rivulet  and  gardens,  was  i 
Khunnatr.  Kirkuk,  proliably  the  Ecbatat 
with  its  extensive  but  ruinous  c&'ttle,  full  < 
ruins,  on  the  suinmit  of  a  rocky  hill,  and 
suburbs  div(!rBifie<l  by  minarehs  and  the  do 
pn-seuts  an  imposing  appearance.  It  is  s 
somi-  importance,  and  contains  a  mixed  popi 
Popnlniion  at  10,000  souls.  It  is  watered  by  a  tributai 
1       1        1         ■  '        ■   The  bazaar.t  are  covered  and  well  supplied, 

tlHIIFBH  ture  of  blue  cloth  for  women  and  tanning 

wine  1:4  made   for  Mile  in    Bagdad,  and  [ 


MR.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY   TO   COKSTANTINOPLE.  497 

Our  attention  was  in  reality  concentrated  upon  the  very     APPX. 
remarkable  phenomena  of  natural  fires,  which  have  existed  ._      '    ^ 
from  the  remotest  times  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  which  Natural 
have  failed  to  attract  that  attention  which  the  pens  of  graphic  ^"'* 
travellers  have  attached  to  similar  yet  less  persistent  phe- 
nomena at  Baku  on  the  Caspian  Sea.      In  this  case  the  flames 
come  forth  from  a  depression  of  the  soil  several  hundred 
•quare  jB.rd8  in  extent,  on  the  crest  of  a  ridge  of  low  hills 
to  the  north-west  of  Kirkuk.     The  flames  are  scarcely  visible 
in  a  strong  sunshine,  but  they  are  very  brilliant  by  night. 
Wherever  a  spear  was  pushed  into  the  soil  by  our  attendants, 
a  new  flame  at  once  sprang  forth.     The  fumes   were  sul- 
phureous and  suffocating.     Notwithstanding  that  phenomena 
of  the  class  in  question  are  perfectly  well  understood,  and 
were  described  in  the   *  Eesearche45  in  Assyria'  (p.  242),  as 
arising  from  chemical  action,  we  have  seen  them  confounded 
even  in  works  recently  published,  having  reference  to  the 
Dead  Sea  and  its  occasional  emission  of  naphtha  and  petro- 
leum or  bitumen,  with  volcanic  phenomena  to  which  they 
have  no  relation  whatsoever. 

Not  far  from  the  Abu  Gagir  and  Kirkuk  Baba,  both  signi- 
fying the  same  thing  ('  Father  of  Flames,'  as  the  spot  is  desig- 
nated by  the  Arabs  and  Turks  respectively),  are  several  wells 
from  which  considerable  quantities  of  naphtha  and  petroleum  Petroleum 
are  obtained.  Clear  naphtha  is  called  by  the  natives  '  nafta  "j^^  "^Pj'' 
abiyad,'  or  white  naphtha ;  petroleum,  *  kara  nafta,'  or  black 
naphtha.  From  eight  to  ten  gallons  were  said  to  be  col- 
lected from  each  well  per  diem ;  they  were  seven  in  number 
Eit  the  time  of  our  visit,  but  they  might  be  sunk  in  any  place 
over  a  considerable  extent  of  ground. 

From  Kirkuk — where  we  had  been  hospitably  entertained  Route 
by  the  Mutsellim,  or  Turkish  governor,  during  our  stay  of  two  ^^^i^ 
iays^-our  road  lay  in  a  nearly  due  easterly  direction,  over  a 
low  hilly  country,  towards  Kurdistan.   We  crossed  on  the  first 
lay's  journey  (Sunday,  February  12)  three  different  ridges 
3f  bills,  bivouacking  at  a  ruinous  and  deserted  khan  called  Khan 
Grashir,  on  the  crest  of  a  fourth  ridge.     The  first  of  these  ^*"^- 
ranges  was   composed   of  gypsum,   marls,  and  sandstones, 
but  the  last  three  of  sandstones,  sands,  and  conglomerates. 
The  valleys  were  watered  by  natural  rivulets,  from  which  we 

K  K 


498 


MB.  AINSWOETH  S  JOURNEY   TO  CONSTANTINOPLE, 


Eleration 

ofhiUy 

ridges. 


PaMof 

Beerbend- 

i-Buijan. 


Party  of 

armeid 

Kudc 


Tubbis- 
spi. 


Iti  inhabi 
taatf. 


Valley  of 
Alay. 


gathered  refreshing  watercresses ;  the  slopes  of  the  hills  wil 
ilex,  and  some  few  myrtles  and  box-trees ;  the  hills  themselv 
were  in  part  grassy,  yet  there  were  no  people  or  habitations- 
nothing  save  a  few  herds  of  gazelles.  We  had  to  cut  our  ovi 
firewood  at  the  deserted  khan,  and  to  take  turns  to  ke( 
watch  by  night.  The  estimated  elevation  of  Kirkuk  wi 
1,150  feet,  of  Khan  Gashlr  2,853  feet. 

We  advanced  from  the  deserted  khan  across  a  moorlani 
with  the  village  of  Kiirkaf  in  its  centre,  to  a  pass  in  tl 
mountains  called  Deerbend-i-Basiyan.  This  pass  is  a  gap  i 
a  low  range  of  limestone  hills,  and  is  defended  by  a  val 
Tribute  or  toll  used  to  be  collected  at  this  spot,  being  one  ( 
the  most  remarkable  entrances  into  Central  Kurdistan.  As  ^ 
approached  the  pass,  we  met  some  ^  sipahs  '  or  armed  Kurdis 
clansmen,  on  horseback,  who  expressed  surprise  at  our  vei 
turing,  in  so  small  a  party,  along  a  road  on  which,  they  wei 
pleased  to  intimate,  a  caravan  had  been  plundered  that  vei 
day.  They  were  stalwart-looking  fellows,  and  met  us  at 
picturesque  site ;  but  as  we  had  an  oflScer  with  us  from  tl 
Governor  of  Kirkuk,  they  did  not  oflFer  the  slightest  opp 
sition  to  our  progress,  or  make  any  demands  for  a  present 

There  were  several  abundant  springs  at  the  pass,  and  othc 
beyond,  which  united  to  form  a  rivulet  near  the  village 
Tubbis-spi,  where  we  passed  the  night.  This  rivulet  was  o 
of  the  head  tributaries  of  the  Ta-uk  river.  The  inbabitai 
were  a  fine  race,  tall,  of  easy  gait  and  flexible  limbs ;  th< 
features  were  handsome  and  dark,  the  forehead  good  a 
intellectual,  and  the  eyes  very  expressive.  We  had  some  m( 
and  rice  with  us  from  the  Kirkuk  bazaar,  but  the  good  peo] 
of  the  village  said  they  would  take  some  time  to  prepares 
they  volunteered  a  supper  of  their  own,  which  consisted  o 
plentiful  supply  of  eggs  and  boiled  wheat*  Altogether  we  w< 
very  much  pleased  with  our  first  introduction  to  the  Kur 
Little  did  we  dream,  at  the  time,  of  the  days  and  months 
should  have  to  spend  in  after-years  in  their  society !  • 

The  next  day  (February  14),  we  crossed  over  a  range 
limestone  hills  to  the  valley  of  Alay,  a  moorland  of  aboi 
mile  in  width.     The  snows  had  only  recently  melted  in  1 

*  Mr.  AinsTTorth   Rpent  some  montliR  among  the  Kurds  on  a  subseq 
occasion.    (See  p.  609.) 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  499 

country,  and  the  soaked  soil  let  the  mules  in  up  to  their     APPX. 
knees  at  every  step.     A  few  pink  and  white  crocuses  were,  \^ 

however,  in  flower,  and  there  was  such  a  profusion  of 
hyacinths  or  bluebells,  that  I  regretted  not  being  a  month 
later,  when  they  would  have  been  in  flower. 

We  had  only  one  more  ridge  to  cross,  and  we  found  our-  Plain  of 
selves  descending  to  the  open  cultivated  plain  of  Sulaimaniyah.  J^^^^^' 
From   Khan    Gashir   we   travelled    8   boars  (28  miles),  to 
Tiibbis-spi ;  from  Tubbis-spi  to  Sulaimaniyah  it  was  7  hours 
(24^  miles).    As  we  approached  the  town,  we  found  the  Pacha 
playing  at  soldiers  without  the  precincts  of  tbe  place ;   that 
is,  he  was  sitting  with  two  children,  two  Persians,  an  oflBcer 
of  the  Nizam,  and  attendants,  watching  his  small  body  of 
regular  troops  going  through  their  platoon  exercise.     The 
sound  of  drum  and  fife  in  so  remote  a  district,  and  where  the 
low  flat  roofs  made  the  capital  of  Central  Kurdistan  look  not 
00  much  like  a  town  as  the  tenement  of  some  industrious 
alpine  quadruped — a  home  of  hamsters — was  singular  indeed. 
As  we  plunged  deeper  and  deeper  into  this  place,  of  such  un- 
inviting aspect,  a  few  houses  of  better  construction  hecsune  The  town. 
visible,  and  a  bazaar  some  300  feet  in  length  was  traversed ; 
the  ruins  of  a  small  castellated  building  spoke  of  times  gone 
by,  and  a  palace,  partly  of  mud  and  partly  of  brick,  an- 
nounced the  residence  of  the  existing  Pacha. 

We  met  with  a  kindly  reception,  and  were  ushered  into  Our  re- 
what  the  French  would  call  a  pavilion  in  the  palace-garden,  ^®P^^°- 
and  where,  in  virtue  of  a  ticket  given  to  the  attendants,  a 
load  of  wood  was  followed  by  one  of  rice  and  meat.  The 
pilau  was  of  colossal  dimensions,  and  had  raisins  scattered  on 
its  surface,  as  also  a  few  beneath;  and  it  did  honour  to 
Kurdish  hospitality,  which  on  this  occasion  certainly  did  not 
show  itself  to  be  behind  that  of  either  Arabs  or  Turcomans. 

The  next  morning  the  Pacha  gave  us  a  formal  reception,  Inteiview 
in  the  presence  of  his  Persian  friends.  Our  papers  were  p^h^/ 
examined,  and  as,  in  answer  to  the  usual  enquiry  as  to  what 
brought  us  into  these  mountain  districts,  we  replied,  succinctly 
and  truly,  that  we  were  in  search  of  mines,  *  Of  what  use,' 
said  the  Pacha, '  would  it  be  to  find  mines  here  ?  The  Persians 
would  not  allow  them  to  be  worked.'  The  solemn-looking 
Tajiks  having  bowed  acquiescence,  I  remarked,  that  if  mines 

K  K  2 


500  MR.  AISSWOBTH'S  JOUESET  to  COSSTAKTISOFl 

APPX.     were  discovered,  the  Sultan  woald  know  bow  to  v 

■  _  ^'   ,.  hie  rigbta, — a  reply  which  pleased  the  representative 

Siibliine  Porte  mightily,  so  much  so,  that  he  made  no 

to  coDceal  his  gratification  in  the  presence  of  the 

envoys,  but  gave  a  loud  and  emphatic  acquiescence,   'i 

formal  reception  over,  all  others  were  totally  uncerem 

and  we  spent  the  two  following  days  in  exploring  the 

of  Sert-Chinar,  Dargbazin,  or  Shahiizur,*  as  It  is  tj 

designated,  and  the  mountain  regions  around.     The 

Tika  hiOi     of  the  latter,  part  of  ancient  Tagn»,  are  here  called  tfa 

irm"^      "^*°  **''  ' I'om^'anate-water '  hills.     They  are  rem 

fur  their  hold,  rocky,  and  conical  forms,  and  are  capp 

snow  during  a  lai^e  portioD  of  the  year.     The  culn 

point  in  the  mountains  was  called  Pir  Omar  Kidru 

the  Kidnin  valley  at  Jerusalem.     The  estimated  alt 

Siilaimaniyah  was,  by  barometrical  observation,  3,01 

Tcnpeia-     The  mean  temperature  of  the  place  was,  from  the  obst 

"*'  of  a  very  abuodaot  spring,  61°.    This  makes  the  temp 

at  an  elevation  of  3,000  feet  in  the  parallel  of  34°,  al 

same  as  that  of  Malta,  io  the  parallel  of  34'''2. 

Rich',  d*-        Jlr.  Rich  doea  not  appear  to  have  been  more  stru 

rfsSlT     the  appearance  of  Sulaimaniyah  than  we  were.     'T 

muinb.     uary  houses,'  he  says,  'are  mere  mud  hovels,  whicl 

the  place  look  like  a  large  Arab  village ;  they  are  p 

exposed,  hut  the  people  do  not  seem  to   regard   t 

women   going  about  with   the  men,  and  performti 

domestic  labours  without  any  veil.     This  miserable' 

town,  however,  cootains  six  khans,  Sve  mosques,  ao< 

fine  bath,  with  2,000  Mohammedan,  130  Jewish,  9  CI 

and  5  Armenian  houses.     The  populatioa  of  Sulaima 

estimated  by  the  best  judges  among  the  Kurds  at 

souls,  including  the  officers  of  government  and  reta 

princes  residing  here.     The  ordinary  citizens  are  of  I 

sant  race.'     It  is  necessary,  to  understand  this  last 

to  explain  that  the  peasantry  in  Kurdistan  are  distin 

PnuaDiB      from  the  tribes  or  claosmeD,  who  seldom  cultivate  t 

men.  ^^^   claonish    Kurds   call   themselves   '  sipah '   or   i 

Kurds,  in  contradistinction  to  the  peasant  Kurds,  i 

called '  Guran-rayahs  '  or  serfs,  as  also  '  Kunylis '  orv: 

*  Kirkfiknird  to  br  th«  cajnla]  of  ShaliriEDr.    TheartntJ  capital  i 
bxT,  Snl&im&Dtjali  Mng  a  wpuate  pachalie. 


MR.  AINSWORTH'S   JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  501 

It  is  surprising  how  little  timber  there  is  in  these  moun-     APPX. 
tains.     Only  the 'tchinar/ or  oriental  plane,  is  cut  between   ^    ^'    - 
this  place  and  Sinna,  and  it  is  floated  down  the  Diyalah  to 
Bagdad.      Some  mulberry  and  nut  trees  are  also  cut,  but  Timber, 
only  out  of  orchards.     It  is  diflferent  in  Northern  Kurdistan^ 
and  hence  most  wood  is  sent  down  from  Jezirah-ibn-Omar  by 
the  Tigris,  and  by  the  two  Zabs.     There  are  some  villages  of 
Afghans   in    Shahrizur,   as    also   some   families   of  Afshars 
(Nadir  Shah's  tribe),  all  political  refugees.     Snow  lies  on  the 
ground  at  Sulaimaniyah,  in  winter,  for  from  two  to  six  weeks, 
and  the  cold  is  said  to  be  very  severe.     It  is  equally  hot  in 
summer.     Barley  is  reaped  by  the  1st  of  June;  mulberries  Vegetable 
ripen  about  the  same  time,  when  cucumbers  also  first  come  P'^^®- 
in,  but  wheat  is  not  cut  down  till  the  middle  or  end  of  June. 
Cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  and  other  cereals  are  also  cultivated, 
but  no  hemp  or  flax.     Oranges  and  lemons  will  not  stand  the 
winter,  but  some  castor-oil  plant  is  grown.     The  grape-vine 
flourishes  freely.    Gall-nuts,  honey,  and  other  mountain  pro- 
ducts are  exported  to  Kirkuk.    Two  kinds  of  manna  (*  kudrat 
halvassi,'   divine  sweetmeat)   are  collected — one   from  the 
dwarf  oak,  and  another  from  the  rocks,  the  latter  being  pure 
and  whit«.     When  a  night  is  unusually  cool  in  June,  the 
Kurds  say  it  rains  manna,  as  most  is  then  found. 

Sulaimaniyah  is  not  an  old  town ;  it  was  founded,  in  about  History  of 
1788,  by  one  Ibrahim  Pacha,  who  removed  the  capital  from  SuUimam- 
Kara-Tchulan,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Azmir  hills,  and  he 
called  his  new  town  Sulaimaniyah,  in  compliment  to  the  then 
Pacha  of  Bagdad,  Sulaiman.  There  was,  however,  an  ancient 
mound  at  the  site,  and  a  village  known  as  Malik  Hindi,  or 
*  the  village  of  the  Indian  king.'  Situated  as  it  is  in  a  hollow, 
about  two  miles  from  the  foot  of  the  eastern  range  of  hills, 
and  in  a  sort  of  ravine  amidst  the  bare  debris  of  the  rocks, 
Sulaimaniyah  is  one  of  the  least  prepossessing  sites  in  Kur- 
distan. Mr.  Kich  spent  some  days  here  in  1820,  but  his 
time  was  chiefly  taken  up  with  local  politics  and  family  affairs, 
diversified  by  dog  and  partridge  fights.  Sir  Henry  Rawlin- 
son  has  added  largely  to  our  knowledge  of  Kurdistan,  south 
of  Sulaimaniyah,  in  an  account  of  a  march  from  Zohab,  at 
the  foot  of  ZagroR,  to  Kermanshah,  performed  in  the  year 
1836,  and  published  in  the  ninth  volume  of  the  *  Journal  of 
the  Koyal  Geographical  Society.'     It  is  much  to  be  regretted  ^— 


Mil 


i 


f;l 


502  ICB.  AlHSWOBTH'S  JOUKNBY  TO  COireTANTINi 

APPX.     that  the  map  which  accompanied  the  Report  of  1 
■  Persiaii  Boundary  ComouBBioD,  presented  to  the 

CommoDS,  was  not  printed,  as  it  would  throw  i 
upon  many  of  the  obscure  points  in  the  geograpl 
Umitropbal  regions. 
Cmowi  of  I  had  arranged  with  Rassam  to  get  away  qui 
"  '■  morning  of  Friday,  February  17,  but  travel  in  t 
often  both  dilatory  and  expeniiive.  The  Pacha  int 
presenting  me  with  a  horse,  for  which  an  equivalt 
waH  expected,  and  the  innumerable  attendants  all 
for  liberal '  backshish.'  A  clansman  was  also  to  aco 
as  far  as  Kuuy  Sanjak.  All  these  matters  delayed 
that  we  were  only  able  to  effect  a  start  and  a  short 
village  of  Barmndaus ;  but  finding  that  place  full 
we  crossed  the  valley  to  ChallUpi,  a  poor  village 
obttiiued  a  sorry  tenement  full  of  lively  little  inba 
more  numerous  than  soldiers. 
|^M>->-  The  nest  day  we  travelled  for  sis-and-a-half  houi 

i-Mirun,  the  greater  part  of  the  journey  lying  aloi 
uf  the  giant  mass  of  the  P!r  Omar  Kidrun.  We 
ttDguish  two  deep  caverns  on  its  southern  face,  on 
is  said  to  have  been  the  hermitage  or  home  of  the 
of  Kidrun  ;  and  he  has  imparted  so  much  sanctity  I 
that,  according  to  popular  tradition,  true  believe 
the  caves  are  miraculously  supplied  with  provisi 
Care  of  cave  is  Called  Diz-rud,  from  a  village  of  the  same  D 
Dit-md.  f^^^^  ^f  jj^^  mountain.  On  this  day's  journey  we  f< 
highly-carburetted  marls  with  seams  of  ironsto: 
soon  assumed  a  considerable  development  in  a  rang 
known  as  the  Aixl-er-Kahman,  and  which  occupy  t 
the  valley  beyond  the  PIr  Omar  Kidrun.  There  v: 
in  these  formations  to  induce  hopes  of  a  successf 
for  lignite-coal,  one  of  the  principal  objects  of  o 
Two  observations  made  this  day,  in  two  good  spi 
each  a  temperature  of  60°  as  the  mean  of  the  coi 
lent  their  corroboration  to  the  observation  made 
maniyah.  On  the  other  side  of  the  hills,  almost  the  i 
Zoology,  things  met  with  had  been  gazelles,  boars,  jackal 
hares,  grouse,  partridges,  and  crows;  now  we  had  v 
foxes  in  addition  to  jackals  and  hyenas;  black  be 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  503 


*  manga  mar'  and  *  gamash/  and  wild  goats  or  sheep,  were  said 
to  exist  in  the  mountains.  Jerboas  were  as  numerous  at  the 
foot  of  some  of  the  wells  as  rabbits  in  a  warren,  and  more  so. 
There  were  also  numerous  Large  accipitrous  birds,  bustards, 
herons  (chiefly  of  a  black  species),  spurred  lapwings,  snipe, 
and  starlings,  to  enliven  the  ride. 

On  the  next  day's  journey  (Sunday,  February  19),  we  found 
the  carbonaceous  rocks  still  further  developed  along  the  base 
of  the  hills,  here  called  Sa'rt;  and  they  occupied  the  valley  TheSa'rt 
between  them  and  the  Kam-Shukah  hills,  which  are  merely  ^^' 
the  prolongation  of  Pir  Omar  Kidrun  to  the  north.      The 
hollow  of  this  valley  presented  the  most  likely  spot  to  search 
for  coal  or  lignite  met  with  in  the  course  of  the  journey. 
There  was  also  much  beautiful  scenery  in  the  course  of  this 
days  ride.     Immediately  on  leaving  Khan-i-Miran,  and  at 
the  head  of  the  valley  of  Sulaimaniyah,  we  passed  a  ruined 
cattle  designated  as  Kalah  Khaftau.     The  ridge  here  con-  Kuined 
stituted  the  parting  line  between  the  two  watersheds — on  the  ^f®,^®^ 
south  to  the  Diyalah  river,  on  the  north  to  the  Little  Zab.  Xhaftan. 
In  the  rocky  pass  between  the  Pir  Omar  Kidrun  and  the 
bold  Kam-Shukah  range  was  a  village  called  Sir-Dash,  with  a  Sir-Dash, 
walled  fortification  or  castle  on  the  mountain  side.     Wood 
became  more  common ;  the  rivulets  were  lined  with  oleander 
and  myrtle,  and   blue   and   red  anemones  flowered    below. 
Several  villages  were  also  to  be  seen  on  the  skirts  of  the  Sa'rt 
hills,  at  an  elevation  of  some  500  or  600  feet  from  the  val- 
ley below.     The  Kam-Shukah  hills  were  too  precipitous  for  Kam-Shft- 
building,  and  the  villages  occupied  nooks  at  the  base,  some-  ^^^  *"^' 
times  in  the  most  picturesque  positions.     The  dead  appeared 
to  be  brought  from  all  these  villages,  to  be  buried  in  little 
sacred  groves  of  oak  by  the  wayside,  probably  that  wayfarers 
might  give  a  passing  prayer  for  the  benefit  of  their  souls. 
Many  had  scattered  stones,  more  especially  beautiful  jaspers, 
which  abounded  in  this  district,  over  their  graves.     Frag- 
ments of  linen  and  cloth  were  also  attached  to  particular 
trees,  a  practice  common  in  many  countries,  attesting  at  all 
events  a  wide-spread  superstition. 

Among  the  most  beautiful  of  the  villages  was  Kam-Shukah  Village  of 
itself.    It  stood  at  the  entrance  of  a  dark  narrow  ravine,  with  ghSah. 
a  precipice  rising  many  hundred  feet  perpendicularly  above. 


504 


MR.  AI5SW0RTH  8  JOURXET  TO   OOXSTAKTiyOPLE. 


APPX, 
XI. 


Carbona- 
cvoQB  de- 
pusiu. 


KalkA- 
^immak. 


The  ruins  of  a  castle  stood  upon  a  crag  that  jutted  over 

the  glen  or  ravine,  and  just  above  it  an  eagle  had  built  its 

nest.     Beyondy  a  solitary  square  tower  occupied  a  still  more 

picturesque  position  among  the  rocks,   and  several  round 

towers  were  scattered  about  according,  apparently,  as  a  point 

of  command  could  be  gained.    A  stream  of  clear  water  flowed 

through  the  glen,  and  by  its  sides  were  the  huts  auid  pleasant 

gardens  of  the  red-turbaned  and  red-tasselled  natives.    The 

beautiful  silky-haired  goat  of  Kurdistan  lay  at  the  thresholds, 

or  browsed  amid  the  adjacent  rocky  debris.     The  castle  at 

Kam-Shukah  was,  like  the  one  at  the  dividing  ridge,  called 

Sir-Tash,  or  Sir-Dash,  probably  signifying  head-stone  or  rocL 

We  find  Sir  and  Pir  constantly  used   in  Kurdistan,  as  in 

Central  Asia  and  in  India,  as  expressive  of  high  and  exalted, 

but  *tash'  or  *dash'  is  a  Turkish  word.*     The  tower  opposite 

was  calleil  SIr-tuk,  also  the  name  of  a  village  farther  on. 

Mundityy  February  20. — I  was  engaged  a  considerable  time 
in  the  further  examination  of  the  carbonaceous  deposits ;  but 
being  covered  with  limestones  on  the  hills,  and  ^ith  vege- 
tation in  the  valley,  I  had  to  limit  myself  to  the  exploration 
of  watercourses,  and  that  without  any  satisfactory  results. 
We  then  proceeded  to  cross  the  Little  Zab,  which  we  did  on  a 
raft  of  skins,  swimming  the  horses  behind.  The  river  is  here 
called  Tayiat  or  Tahiyat — ^not  Tahiti,  as  marked  in  Kinneir's 
map ;  the  ferry  was  called  Dakan,  and  the  village  at  the 
ferry  Sir-tuk.  The  remainder  of  the  day's  journey  was  occu- 
pied in  a  continuous  ascent  to  the  village  of  Kalka-Simmak 
This  was  a  large  and  beautiful  village,  buried  in  groves  and 
orchards  of  figs,  pomegranates,  and  grape-vines,  and  situated 
oil  a  ridge  only  some  500  feet  below  the  adjacent  hills 
Unfortunately,  there  had  been  some  difficulty  with  the  people 
and  the  place  was  occupied  by  soldiery.  We  were,  however 
kindly  received  in  the  mosque,  and  were  not  a  little  amused 
by  the  son  of  the  village  Agha,  followed  by  a  train  of  servants 
bringing  in  our  dinner  whilst  evening  prayers  were  going  on 
Our  meals  in  Kurdistan  consisted  almost  invariably  of  wheal 
boileii  with  sorrel  and  oatmeal  porridge.  A  heavy  storn 
passed  over  during  the  night,  and  the  tumbledown  ok 
mosque  afforded  us  so  little  protection  that  we  were  drenche< 

•  Sir  ii  pronounced  like  the  fiitt  sjlkUe  in  'serioni,'  and  P!r  as  in  'period.* 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  505 

in  our  beds.     The  temperature  of  an  abundant  spring,  in     APPX, 
which  ablutions  were  performed  near  the  mosque,  was  58**'5,  ^,        '  _  ^ 
and  the  estimated  elevation  of  the  village  2,244  feet. 

The  country  we  had  been  traversing  was  peopled  by  the 
Hamuana  Kurds,  who  were  at  that  period  in  rebellion  against 
Turkish  authority.  Around  the  Little  Zab  and  its  soiuces 
are  the  Bulbassi  and  the  Lizan — next  to  the  Bahdinan  among 
the  most  powerful  Kurdish  tribes.  Rich  divides  the  Bulbassi  Kuidish 
into  several  sub-tribes — between  Sulaimaniyah  and  Persia,  "^°"- 
the  Jaffs,  the  Sinna,  the  SuratT,  and  the  Hailan ;  near 
Hawanduz,  the  Arki  and  Aku ;  between  Eawanduz  and  Sinna, 
the  Manasp  and  the  Khusnawa;  at  Kuuy  Sanjak,  the  Zirar ; 
between  it  and  Arbil,  the  Disdai  and  Sherdi.  Some  of  these 
may  be  merely  sub-tribes.  The  snow-clad  mountains  at  the 
head  of  the  Little  Zab  were  called  Kandil. 

We  left  Kalka-Simmak  early  in  the  morning  of  Wednesday, 
February  22,  by  a  rugged  hilly  road,  passing,  at  a  distance 
of  four  miles,  a  village  simply  designated  as  Kalah  (*  The 
Castle'),  where  was  a  remarkable  hill  of  ironstone  and  bitu- 
minous marl,  with  powerful  veins  of  calcareous  spar.  One- 
and-a-half  mile  beyond  was  the  village  of  Kirdala;  two 
miles  farther.  Sheik  Hajji;  and  three  miles  beyond,  Kalah 
Khan,  with  a  mound  of  ruin ;  but,  like  the  previous  place, 
also  called  Kalah,  it  possesses  no  castle  in  the  present  day. 
Hence  our  road  took  us  over  the  ridge  of  hills  called  Kashgar,  Hills  of 
the  barometer  giving  an  elevation  of  3,286  feet  to  the  summit-  Kaahgar. 
level.  It  was  twelve  miles  hence  to  Kuuy  Sanjak,  passing,  at 
the  foot  of  the  hills,  the  village  of  Hajji  Karan.  Kuuy  (or 
Koi)  Sanjak  ranks  as  a  town ;  and  although  the  Mutsellim 
placed  a  large  and  convenient  apartment  at  our  disposal,  it  Kuuy 
did  not  suflSce  to  accommodate  the  number  of  persons  who  Saigak. 
came  to  see  us  in  the  evening.  We  had  the  misfortune  to 
be,  according  to  their  account,  the  first  Europeans  who  had 
visited  their  little  town,  and  we  suffered  from  their  curiosity 
accordingly.  It  was,  indeed,  very  late  before  the  good  people 
of  Kuuy  Sanjak  could  be  induced  to  take  their  departure. 

In  our  latest  maps  of  these  regions  the  Little  Zab  is  made  The  Little 
to  join  the  Tahiti  of  Kinneir  (Tahiyat)  at  Kuuy  Sanjak,  ^^• 
while  another  tributary  flows  into  the  same  river  at  Altun 
KuprL    The  Tahiyat,  which  we  crossed  at  Dakan,  is  the  only 


506 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY   TO   CONSTANTIKOPLE. 


niiu  of 

Hmnman 
Mttk. 


Sasa. 


Bama- 
span. 

IlotpUinf, 


Th«  Arbil 
moand. 


river  strictly  so  speaking;  the  stream  of  Kuuy  Sanjak  is 
mere  rivulet,  and  it  flows  into  the  Tahiyat,  or  Little  Zab,  i 
or  near  Altun  Kupri. 

Starting  from  Kuuy  Sanjak,  we  ascended  the  next  da 
(Thursday,  February  23)  the  rocky  hills  of  Hammac 
Muk,  without  seeing  the  thermal  waters  from  whence  th 
place  derives  its  name ;  but  we  visited  some  abundant  spring 
called  I)ar-mu,  which  supply  the  town  with  water,  and  pre 
sented  a  temperature  of  61^  at  an  elevation  of  some  1,80( 
feet.  The  ascent  of  these  hills  took  over  an  hour,  and  w( 
descended  thence  into  a  valley,  with  vineyards  and  cultivatioo, 
and  a  little  wood,  but  for  the  most  part  barren.  At  a  distance 
of  sixteen  miles  from  Kuuy  Sanjak  we  passed  a  village  called 
Susa,  with  a  rivulet;  and  twenty-two  miles  from  the  same 
plac*e  we  came  to  a  'derbend'  or  pass,  so  narrow  as  just  to  allow 
space  for  a  bridle-path  and  a  stream  of  water.  This  pass  was 
defended  by  a  small  castle,  said  to  have  been  built  by  the 
rebellious  Bey  of  Rawanduz  in  1834.  There  was  another 
castle  of  similar  character,  square  with  round  towers  at  the 
angles,  about  four  miles  to  the  north-west.  On  issuing  forth 
from  the  *  derbend '  we  found  ourselves  in  a  village  called 
Bumaspan,  where  we  took  up  our  quarters  with  the  hospitable 
Kurd  peasants. 

We  left  the  hilly  country  at  this  point  to  enter  upon  the 
hot  plains — the  abomination  of  the  Kurds,  who,  accustomed 
to  the  pleasant  breezes,  clear  air,  and  green  vegetation  of  tbeii 
hills,  cannot  bear  the  dust  and  heat  of  the  lower  country. 
Here,  as  all  along  to  the  east  of  the  Tigris,  from  Nineveh  tc 
SuHa,  the  rocks  crop  out  in  the  plain  only  as  low  continuous 
bare  ridges,  chiefly  of  red  sandstones.  There  were,  however 
many  pretty  flowers  in  this  warmer  country,  beautiful  irises 
dwarf  pinks,  green  asphodel,  and  almond-trees  in  full  blossom 
It  took  us  a  six  hours'  ride  (a  distance  of  some  twenty-on< 
miles)  to  cross  the  plain  and  rocks  to  Arbil,  having  descendec 
from  an  elevation  of  2,200  to  742  feet — the  altitude  of  Arbi 
on  its  stony  plain  of  red  sand  and  gravel. 

The  moimd  of  Arbil  is  unquestionably  one  of  the  mos 
extensive  in  the  country,  and,  crowned  as  it  is  by  a  castle,  i 
has  a  very  imposing  aspect.  Neither  it  nor  its  castle  sur 
passes  Kirkuk ;  but  the  latter  is  a  rock — Arbil   is  probabl; 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY   TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  507 

mainly  artificial.     Eich  believed  it  to  be  a  burial-place  of    APPX. 
the  Arsacidae.     It  is  about  l.:0  feet  high,  and  300  or  400  .     ^'_- 


jards  in  diameter.     The  town  of  Arbil  is  situated  principally  Town  of 
on  the  south  side  of  the  mound,  and  was  once  as  large  as  ^^^^ 
modern  Bagdad.      Some  portion  of  the  town  is  situated  on 
the  mount,  or  in  what  is  called  the  castle.     Arbil  contains 
the  usual  mosques,  baths,  caravanserais,  and  bazaars.     On 
the  east,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  town,  is  a  hollow  called 
the  Valley  of  Tchekunem,  where  it  is  said  Tamerlane's  tent  Tcheku- 
was  pitched  when  he  besieged  Arbil.    A  holy  sheikh  of  Arbil  ^«°^^^«7 
struck  a  panic  into  his  army,  which  began  to  disperse ;  and 
Tamerlane  is  reported  to  have  cried  out  in  Persian,  *  Tche- 
kunem?' that  is,  ^What  shall  I  do?'  and  this  gave  name  to 
the  valley  or  hollow. 

Saturdiiy^  Fehimai^  25. — Our  road  lay  now  over  a  com- 
paratively level  plain,  the  seat  of  many  historical  events  of 
jreat  interest.     We  were  reapproaching  the  line  of  retreat  of  Line  of 
the  Ten  Thousand  Greeks,  which  we  had  parted  from  at  the  r,ha^^ 
Vahr-wan,  and  we  were  upon  the  scene  of  Alexander  the  retreat. 
jrreat's  triumphs  over  Darius,  more   than   three  centuries 
ifterwards.     From  these  remote  times  to  the  present  the  fine 
)pen  plains,  extending  between  the  Tigris,  the  Great  Zab,  and 
he  rocky  hills  to  the  east,  have  been  the  scene  of  numberless 
•onflicts  and  struggles  for  power  and  dominion.     Above  all, 
^e  were  approaching  the  great  centre  of  Assyrian  pomp  and 
pride. 

A  ride  of  twelve  miles  took  us  to  the  village  of  Kurda- 
Shabir,  evidently  once  a  town ;  three  miles  beyond  wajs  the 
nllage  of  Tub-su,  and  two  miles  farther  the  Great  Zab.  This  Great  Zab 
river  was  crossed,  like  the  Little  Zab,  by  means  of  rafts  on  "^®^* 
skins,  and  the  ferrymen  were  Yezidi  or  Izedi  Kurds,  dwelling 
at  Kelek  Izidi,  or  the  '  Izidi's  ford,'  on  the  left  bank,  the  village 
of  Kafra  being  on  the  right  bank.  The  river  was  not  more 
than  400  feet  in  width,  but  from  two  to  three  fathoms  deep, 
mth  a  rapid  current.  The  Great  Zab  carries,  indeed,  an 
enormous  body  of  water  to  the  Tigris,  yet  it  is  fordable  at 
jeveral  places  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.  It  also  abounds 
in  fish,  and  is  hence  much  resorted  to  by  pelicans  and  cormo- 
rants. 

Sunday,  February  26. — Travelled  eight  miles  to  the  River 


508 


MB.  AISSW0BTH8  JOUKXBT  TO  COSSTANTISi 


KhikliR,  the  Bumadiis  of  the  historians  of  Alexander 
and  seven  miles  faolber  came  to  the  Christiau 
Kara-Kush  and  Karmaliasi,  the  last  of  which  has 
ti6ed  by  some  with  the  Guagamela  (or  Gangam 
Macetiouiana.  Strabo  states  that  the  word  Gangai 
-  *  Camel's  bouse,'  and  that  it  was  so  called  beeai 
gave  the  place  for  support  and  uourisbment  of  i 
camels,  which  was  much  wearied  with  the  marc 
of  the  two  forms  admits  of  explanation :  the  i 
be  derived  from  Khan  or  Khaneh,  the  second  fro 
place.'  DartUB  left  his  baggage  and  treasure  at  A 
lie  advanced  to  give  battle  beyond  tho  Lycus  to 
The  Great  Zab  was  called  the  Lycus,  or  wolf,  and 
Zab  the  Caprus,  or  goat,  from  some  fanciful  peci 
their  modes  of  proceeding.  Xenophon,  however. 
Greater  Zab,Z&batus, and  the  Khazir,  or  Gomar- (t 
was  Bimply  designated  as  a  valley  made  by  a  ton 
was,  however,  at  the  low  season,  and  wbeu  the  G 
able  to  ford  the  River  Zab,  not  (as  I  first  suppose! 
Kupar,  higher  up  than  Kelek  Izidi,  but  at  a  ford 
by  l^yard  betow  Kelek  Izidi,  and  yet  above  the  _ 
the  Kha2tr-sii.t 

We  stopped  at  the  Chaldean  village  of  Bir 
younger  son,'  ezpressive  of  a  village  more  recent 
luuliftfi;  and  being  Sunday  we  attended  divine  ser 
was  performed  within  the  enclosure,  but  outride  o 
of  the  only  exii^ting  church.  BirtuUi  boasted  once 
churches,  hut  two  are  now  in  ruins.  An  old  man 
a  acar  on  his  forehead,  the  relics  of  a  wound  which 
hail  received  in  defending  the  sacred  edifices.  T 
pictures  within  the  church.  Outside,  the  men  8to< 
the  women  in  the  rear,  and  all  joined  vociferoi 
bvmiia.  The  cultivation  around  these  Chaldean  v 
U'tter  attended  to  than  any  I  had  Been  before,  yet 
|M<«t;au)ts  had  much  to  contend  against,  the  soil  bei: 
with  minH^M,  Ononu  or  restharrow,  and  the  1 
li'jityirlti:iu  or  liquorice  plant.  The  villages  t 
lut-dans,  on  the  Assyrian  plain,  are  all   built  o: 

•  Arahi.  ivi.  :>7. 

t  '  CUaunraUuT-  m  thr  AnabMia  of  XempboB,*  attached  la  t 
V.'«»a»'*  -  Attkbalk.'  ^  SiH.    (Baha.  ISM.) 


MB.  AINS worth's  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  509 

Chaldean  Christian  villages  of  stone,  but  they  are  also  in  a     APPX. 

I  Tcry  ruinous  condition,  ,  '_- 

:     We   rode   fourteen    miles   from    Birtulli   to   Mosul,    on  Arrival  at 

£  TUF      **1 

h  Monday,  February  27.     As  Mr.  Rassam's  relatives  lived  at      ^"  * 
this  place,   and  he   had    not   seen    them    for   many  years, 
we  remained  here  till  Friday,  March  17,  during  which  in- 
terval I  occupied  myself  in  making  a  reconnaissance  of  the 
mounds  of  Nineveh;   in  a  trip  to  Nimrud,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Tigris  and  Zab,  the  scene  of  Mr.  Layard's  subsequent 
important  archaeological  explorations  ;  in  examining  the  sul- 
phur springs   near   Mosul,  exploring   the  town   itself,  and 
determining  the  character  of  the  surrounding  country,  as  far 
as  Ain-el-Safra,  or  '  the  yellow  spring,'  and  the  remarkable 
mountain   mass   known   as  the   Jebel    Maklub — the   Mons 
Nicator  of  Alexander's  historians.     It  is  but  due  to  Mr.  Rich, 
to  say  that  he  was  one  of  the  first  to  carry  on  archaeological 
explorations  in  the  mounds  of  Nineveh ;  but  his  researches  Researches 
were  mere  scratches  in  the  soil,  compared  to  what  has  since  °^^*** 
been  accomplished  by  the  industry  of  Monsieur  Botta  and  Layarf. 
Mr.  Layard.     The  various  questions  connected  with  the  re- 
treat of  the  Ten  Thousand,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  have 
been  treated  of  in  my  *  Travels  in  the  Track  of  the  Ten 
Thousand,'  and  the  geological  results  have  appeared  in  my 
'Researches  in  Assyria,'  &c. — both   works  emanating  from 
enquiries  made  mainly  in  the  course  of  the  Euphrates  Expe- 
dition, and  published  under  the  auspices  of  General  Chesney. 
The  difficult  questions  that  have  arisen  from  the  various 
readings  of  the  *  Inscriptions,'  by  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  Dr. 
Elincks,  and  Mr.  Layard,  in  reference  to  the  Assyrian  and 
Biblical  names  of  Nimrud,  have  been  discussed  in  the  *  Com- 
mentary,' subsequently  published,  and  attached  to  the  Rev. 
J.  S.  Watson's  edition  of  the  *  Anabasis.'     Some  account  of  Mosul. 
Mosul  has  also  been  given  in  my  *  Travels  in  Asia  Minor,'  &c., 
which  contain  the  results  of  an  expedition,  sent  by  the  Royal 
Greographical  Society  and  the  Society  for  Promoting  Chris- 
tian Knowledge,  to  the  Chaldean  or  Nestorian  Christians  in 
JTorthern  Kurdistan.     My  companion,  Mr.  Rassam,  was  sub-  Mr.  C.  A, 
lequently  appointed  British  Vice-Consul  at  Mosul,  and  he  has  ^^**™- 
jhown,  by  his  intimate  knowledge  of  the  resources  of  the 
jountry,  that  there  is  an  opening  for  several  English  com- 
nercial  houses  at  this  great  emporium  of  Kurdistan  and  the 


ri 


510  MB.  aixsworth's  journey  to  Constantinople. 

APPX.     central  Tigris     His  brother  Hormuzd  became  Mr.  Layard 

._^}'  _^  right-hand  man  in  his  explorations,  and  subsequently  receive 

Mr.  Hor-     ^n  appointment  at  Aden.    He  was  sent  on  a  mission  to  Abjj 

Kauam.      sinia  in  1865,  where  he  eventually  shared  the  captivity  c 

those   victims   of  the   Emperor   Theodore's  caprice,  whos 

liberation  he  had  hoped  to  effect,* 

Crossing  the  River  Tigris,  and  issuing  forth  by  the  nortl 
gate  of  Nineveh,  we  at  length  effected  a  start  on  Friday 
March  17,  and,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Rassam's  friends,  reacbec 
Tel-Kaif.  the  Chaldean  village  of  Tel-Kaif.  A  species  of  scorzonera 
or  tragopogon  abounded  on  the  plain  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  and  afforded  a  large  succulent  root,  which,  dressed  like 
asparagiLs,  constituted  a  wholesome  and  delicious  food. 

We  got  off  betimes  the  next  morning,  passing,  at  3^  miles, 
Takiyah,  an  Arab  village  with  tents  ;  at  4^  miles  beyond  that 
Jonrney  to  Kaiki,  a  large  village  of  Mussulmans,  with  about  100  huts 
^^*^*  and  numerous  storks  :  then  Binara,  a  small  village  of  about 
20  houses  (3^  miles) ;  Hansiyan,  an  Arab  village  of  50  bouses; 
Tel  iiaspi,  another  village  of  Arabs ;  Bash-ak,  *  Head  of  white 
water,'  a  village  of  70  houses,  with  an  oleander-clad  rivulet, 
and  a  ridge  of  sandstone  hills  beyond.  On  the  other  sid^ 
Baydiya,  then  a  whole  group  of  villages  of  IzTdi  Kunk 
including  Bahdinan,  Kraypa,  Rubar,  Ta-uk,  and  Dalib.  We 
put  up  at  the  last  of  these,  having  ridden  some  thirty  mite 
Most  of  these  villages  were  adorned  with  tombs  or  propitia 
tory  monuments  characteristic  of  the  Izidls,  and  which  hac 
square  bases  with  conical  tops — the  latter  tapering  to  a  point 
at  first  in  horizontal  circles,  and  then  fluted  vertically.  Thi 
monastery  of  Rabbeh  Hormuzd,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  to  th( 
right,  constituted  a  remarkable  object  during  part  of  thi 
day's  ride,  and  we  could  distinguish  the  ruins  of  Eskimo 
*  our  Mosul  (which  I  visited  on  a  subsequent  occasion),  oi 
the  right  bank  of  the  Tigris. 

We  were  detained  all  Sunday,  March  19,  at  Dalib,  by 
continuous  downpour  of  rain ;  the  next  day  was  no  bettei 
but  we  nevertheless  pushed  on,  by — first  a  village  calle 
Kawass,  inhabited  by  Slivanl  Kurds;  secondly,  the  village < 
Urfik ;  and,  thirdly,  the  village  of  Aa,  to,  finally,  the  village  < 
Turkasha,  where  we  put  up  for  the  night  (Tuesday,  Man 

*  Mr.  Hormiisd  Raesam  has  returned  to  England  with  Sir  Robert  Napie 
expedition. 


MR.   AINBWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  511 

21).   If  we  had  reason  to  complain  yesterday  of  the  uniformity     APPX. 

of  the  road,  we  were  rewarded  this  day  by  a  picturesque  ascent  . .J — . 

of  the  Jebel  Abiyad,  or  *  White  Mountains,'  with  rocky  acclivi-  Scenery  of 
■*  ties  wooded  at  points,  and  with  the  fruit-trees  of  our  orchards,  Abhad. 
including  pear  and  apple,  growing  wild  and  in  full  bloom. 
It  took  us  exactly  an  hour  to  reach  the  crest  of  the  range, 
md  we  found  the  country  to  be  broken  up,  well  wooded,  and 
well  watered.  The  vegetation  consisted  chiefly  of  ilex,  or 
dwarf  evergreen  oak,  with  some  juniper,  mimosas,  flowering 
almond  and  laburnum,  and  oleander  along  the  course  of  the 
rivulets.  With  the  water  rendered  more  abundant  by  the 
recent  rains,  the  mass  of  verdure,  and  the  many  flowering 
plants,  the  scene  in  this  limited  rocky  region  was  one  of  ex- 
ceeding beauty. 

Zakhu,  with  its  lofty  castle  rising  out  of  the  huts  of  the  Castle  of 
peasantry,  is  still  what  it  was  in  the  days  of  Xenophon,  a  ^*^"* 
palace  or  chieftain's  stronghold,  with  (as  in  feudal  times)  a 
few  cottages  grouped  around  it.     The  population  was  given 
to  me  as  300  houses  of  Mohammedans,  100  of  Izidis,  12  of 
Jacobite  Syrians,  and  5  of  Chaldeans.      The  Christians  had 
two  churches,  that  of  the  Virgin  Mary  and  that  of  St.  George, 
the  latter  being  now  in  ruins.      The  Khabur  river  is  crossed  River 
by  a  bridge  of  three  arches,  built  on  rocks  about  half  a  mile  ^^*^^- 
east  of  the  town.     It  is  nearly  30  feet  high,  and  the  arches 
have  a  span  of  40  feet.     The  river  forms  rapids  at  this  point. 
Travelling  over  the  grassy  plain— the  old  *Eomaion  Ager' — 
the  ensuing  day  (Wednesday,  March  22)  we  came  to  another 
river  at  a  distance  of  eight  or  nine  miles,  called  the  Khazil, 
where  we  had  to  be  ferried  over  on  rafts — a  very  dilatory 
proceeding.     The  current  was  so  rapid  that,  although  not  Rapid 
above  60  feet  in  width,  the  rafts  were  carried  down    some  ^""S?^  ^t 

the  Khazil. 

distance  before  a  landing  could  be  eflfected.  We  did  not,  in 
consequence  of  the  delay  thus  incurred,  get  beyond  the  small 
Chaldean  village  of  Tel  Kabbin,  which  had  a  church  in  ruins, 
the  interior  of  which  looked  more  like  a  dungeon  than  a  place 
of  worship. 

The  next  day  we  left  this  splendid  plain,  which  is  hemmed  JebolJudl. 
in  by  the  Jebel  Abiyad  on  the  one  side,  the  Jebel  JiidT — one 
of  the  traditional  resting-places  of  the  Ark — on  the  other,  is 
backed  by  snow-clad  mountains,  and  terminates  at  its  widest 
end  on  the  River  Tigris,  and  kept  along  the  banks  of  the  latter 


512 


MR.  AINSWOETH  S  JOURNEY   TO   CONSTANTINOPLE. 


APPX. 
XL 


CAStleof 
Rubtfa. 


Je^rmb- 
ibn-Omar. 


An  in- 
cident 
of  the 
journey. 


river  to  Jezirab-ibn-Omar.  Tbe  plain  was  dotted  witb  villages, 

and  tliere  were  several  Kurdisb  castles  at  the  foot  or  od  the 

slopes  of  tbe  distant  hills.      The  point  where  the  hills  came 

down  to  the  riverside  was  in  particular  defended  by  a  fine 

old  castle,  called  fiubara  or  RabahT,  within  which  was  anotiier 

ruinous  structure  of  more  recent  times.     This  appears  to  be 

the  Rabdium  of  the  Byzantines  and  Tur  Babdin  of  the  Jlhan 

Numa,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which  was  the  '  Romaion 

Ager.'     The  Khabur  and  Khazil  rivers  unite,  before  flowing 

into  the  Tigris,  to  form  the  Pir-e-Khabiir  or  Plr-i-Shapur. 

The  ruins  of  an  ancient  bridge  are  seen  crossing  the  Tigris  a 

short  distance  below  Jenrah-ibn-Omar. 

The  fortified  town  or  castle  which  bears  the  latter  name  is 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  below  the  point  where, 
as  Xenophon  graphically  described  it,  the  craggy  mounts 
of  the  Karduchians  hung  over  the  river.     It  has,  from  the 
peculiarity  of   its  position,  at   the  first  pass  up  the  river 
south  of  the  mountains,  been  at  all  times  a  strategical  point 
of  importance  to  each  successive  dominant  power.     The  Beit 
Zabda  of  tlie  older  Chaldeans  and  Syrians,  the  Romans  modi- 
fied its  name  into  Bezabde,  and  the  Khalif  Omar  constructed 
the  bridge  or  dyke  which  left  to  the  place  its  present  name, 
A  curious  incident  occurred  on  our  approach  to  Jezirah. 
The  road  lay  on  the  slope  of  the  hills,  with  a  precipitous 
clitr   on  the  left,  and  then  a  long  stretch    of  gravel  and 
verdure  to  the  river.     I  got  off  my  horse  to  examine  the 
cliff,  and  descended  to  its  base.     I  was  soon  rewarded  hy 
finding  a  cave  with  a  deliciously  cool  spring  of  water  withia 
The  temperature  was  66**,  showing  a  difference  of  5**  in  the 
mean  annual  temperature  between  Sulaimaniyah  and  Al-Jezi- 
rah.     A  little  farther  on  I  found  among  the  rocky  dibris  al 
the  foot  of  the  precipice  a  spinning-wheel,  then  a  coppei 
pot,  and  soon  a  whole  collection  of   domestic  utensils, 
had  never  seen  such  geological  specimens  before,  and  wa 
filled  with  wonder.    The  explanation  only  presented  itsel 
ailer  joining  the  rest  of  the  party,  when  we  met  the  in 
habitants  of  Mansuniyah — a  Christian  village  on  the  lei 
bank  of  the  Tigris — in  full  flight  with  the  remainder  of  the' 
household  lares  and  penates.      The  Kurds,  they  said,  wei 
upon  them.  We  persevered  onwards,  nevertheless,  but  a  litt! 


MB.  AIXSWORTH's  journey  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  513 

beyond  the  village  we  came  up  with  some   mounted   and     APPX. 
araied   men — clansmen   of  the   Nestorian  tribes — who  had   .  . 

come  down  to  give  the  alarm.  They  told  us  it  was  impossible 
to  continue  on  our  projected  road  through  the  mountains  by 
Fenik  (a  line  of  country  I  traversed  upon  a  subsequent  occa- 
sion), as  the  Kurds  were  up  in  arms ;  so  we  had  no  alternative 
but  to  retrace  our  steps  and  cross  the  river  to  Jezirah.  These 
mountain  warriors  were  well-dressed,  well-accoutred,  and  re- 
markably fine  men. 

Jezirah  stands  on  a  peninsula  or  island  of  the  river,  whence  Jennh. 
its  name,  hut  its  old  Roman  walls  climb  up  the  precipices  in 
the  rear.  It  is  a  miserably  poor  place  at  the  present  day,  with 
few  inhabitants  and  no  trade.  The  rocks  are  here  of  volcanic 
origiD,  and  the  whole  extent  of  country  beyond  to  Tel  Sa- 
Kban,  a  distance  of  39  to  40  miles,  was  of  a  similar  charac- 
ter— a  bare,  bleak,  stony  region,  with  little  vegetation  and  no 
Cultivation  or  inhabitants.  Wolves  that  were  prowling  among 
the  loose  stones  close  by  us  seemed  to  be  as  unconcerned  at 
Our  presence  as  the  hyenas  are  in  Southern  Persia.  This 
stony  region  was  bounded  to  the  north  by  the  Ba'arim  hills 
—the  ancient  Masius — also  of  volcanic  origin.  These  hills, 
which  do  not  attain  an  elevation  of  above  800  feet  above  the 
uplands,  advance  in  a  westerly  direction  to  near  Nisibin, 
when  they  turn  off  by  Dara  towards  Mardin,  uniting  with 
the  Jebel  Tur. 

Beyond  Tel  Sa-Khan,  however,  the  volcanic  rocks  are 
succeeded  by  limestones,  on  a  knoll  of  which  was  a  castle 
formerly  inhabited  by  a  noted  robber  named  Halilah,  but 
who  was  made  prisoner  by  Eeschid  Pacha  and  sent  to  Con- 
stantinople. Beyond  this  castle  the  hills  lower  rapidly  down 
to  the  Plain  of  Nisibin,  which  was  the  chief  scene  of  the  Plain  of 
exploits  of  the  freebooting  chieftain,  being  the  line  of  the  ^^*^'"- 
highroad  from  Constantinople  to  Bagdad.  Descending  upon 
this  plain,  we  arrived  in  the  evening  of  Sunday,  March  26, 
at  the  ruins  of  what  was  once  the  chief  city  of  Mygdonia, 
and  long  an  advanced  outpost  of  the  Romans  against  the 
East.  It  is  first  mentioned  in  history  under  the  name  of 
Antiocheia,  in  the  march  of  Antiochus  against  the  Satrap 
Melon  ;^  in  the  later  wars  between  the  Romans  and  Parthians 

*  Polyb.,  T.  61. 


514 


MR.  AINSWORTU'S  JOURNEY  TO  OONSTANTIKOFL] 


Ancient 
biitory  of 
NisibiD. 


Ruins  of 

anciont 

Nifibir. 


11 


Invrip- 
tioo  in  u 
church. 


it  waA  constantly  taken  and  retaken.  Thus  it  was  wree 
Lucullus  from  the  brother  of  Tigranes,  after  a  long 
which  lasted  the  whole  summer,*  but  according  to  PI 
towards  the  close  of  the  autumn,  without  much  resi 
from  the  enemy.  Again  it  was  taken  by  the  Romans 
Trajan,  and  was  the  cause  of  the  title  of  *  Parthicus,' 
the  Senate  decreed  to  that  emperor.f  If,  as  is  suggea 
(feneral  Chesney,  Trajan  built  his  boats  here  to  desc 
tlie  Ix>wer  Euphrates  by  the  Mygdonius,  they  must  ha? 
very  small,  for  the  river  is  a  mere  streamlet.  It,  ho 
receives  large  tributaries  a  little  farther  to  the  soutl 
and  that  may  have  been  the  point  in  question.  I 
appears  to  have  been  subsequently  besieged  by  the  C 
(people  of  Orfah)  and  other  tribes  who  had  revolted,  bi 
were  subdued  by  the  arms  of  Septimus  Severus.  I 
l>ecame  on  this  occasion  the  head-quarters  of  Severus.} 
this  period,  it  appears  to  have  remained,  with  Bezabde 
Tigris,  an  advanced  outpost  of  the  fiomans,  till  it  w 
rendered  to  the  Persians  on  the  treaty  which  was  mad 
that  people  by  Jovian  after  the  death  of  Julian.§ 

The  ruins  of  ancient  Nisibin  occupy  au  area  of  a 
pquare  mile.  They  are,  however,  mere  fragments  of  bui 
Five  columns  alone  stand  erect.  Two  have  Corinthiai 
tals,  and  still  support  an  entablature.  One  has  a  capit 
tumbling  off — the  other  two  are  broken.  An  old  Ch 
church,  called  Mar  Yakub,  had  luckily  preserved  son 
specimens  of  Roman  sculpture  in  its  structure.  I 
here  a  mutilated  inscription,  as  well  as  the  circums 
would  permit : — 

+  +  ANHPEx  X  HO+  +  +TIC  x 

HPIONIONIOYXOx  x 

nPGC  X  XTG€OY     Ol 

OnOYCnOVAHAK€YYMAT 
X  X  DYCAOXENXBPO  x  x 

T€NAT€AYnOONU)N  x  x  x  x 

noNTOvey 

Near  the  monastery  was  a  more  modern  mosque,  de< 
to  Zin-al-Abidin,  Hhe  best  of  hermits,'  although  not  tl 


*  Dion  Cassius,  xxxt.  C.  7. 
t  Ibid.  UvuL  2«. 


♦  Ibid.  Ixxr.  2,  3. 

§  Zosim.  iii.  33  ;  Amm.  Mak 


MR.  AINSWORTH'S  JOUBNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  515 

re  had  met  with  on  our  travels  who  was  so  desigDated.     An     APPX. 

Irab  village  occupied  the  south-east  comer  of  the  ruins,  and  .  ^'    . 

m  the  modem  highway  was  a  caravanserai,  a  small  bazaar, 

kod  a  few  houses  which  seem,  from  subsequent  experience,  to 

ye  inhabited  or  teuantlefs   according  to  the  state   of  the 

»untry,  whether  in  peace  or  in  rebellion.     Nisi  bin  was  once 

:he  centre  of  a  very  extensive  trade,  and  one  of  the  great  Trade  of 

smporia  for  the  merchandise  of  the  East  and  West.*     How     *"  "*' 

t  has  fallen  off,  like  all  the  other  great  cities  of  the  East, 

inder  the  misrule  of  the  Mahommedans  I      It  may  be  said 

:hat  the  change  of  lines  of  commerce  may  have  had  as  much 

to  do  with  the  decline  of  the  place  as  misrule ;  but  Nisibin  is 

still  upon  a  highway  of  trade,  which  would  be  much  more 

frequented  if  even  tolerably  safe.     As  it  is,  what  between 

the  Kurds  of  the  Ba'arim  Hills,  the  Izidis  of  the  Singar,  and 

the  roving  Arabs,  all  of  whom  look  upon  merchants  as  their 

lawfiil  prey,  it  is  necessary  to  travel  in  a  body  or  caravan  be- 

i^ween  Mardin  and  Mosul  to  secure  a  safe  transit. 

We  rode  the  next  day  (Monday,  March  27)  across  the  plain 
and  then  into  the  hills  to  Dara,  where  a  modem  village  viUageof 
iflFording'us  accommodation  for  the  night,  we  spent  the  after-  ^*™* 
aeon  in  a  rough  reconnaissance  of  the  ruins.  These  are  indeed 
rery  extensive,  owing  probably  to  the  combined  causes  of 
the  edifices  having  been  constructed  of  compact  limestone  or 
marble,  and  to  their  being  in  the  hills,  removed  from  the  high- 
way.   The  chief  ruins  are — first,  the  acropolis,  situated  at  the 
highest  part  of  the  town,  having  the  modem  village  of  Dara 
in  front,  or  south  of  it,  and  three  large  cistern   by  the  side. 
The  river  of  Dara,  a  tributary  to  the  Mygdonius,  flows  past  River  of 
the  hill  to  the  south,  where  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  ^*™' 
dam  and  reservoir.      It  then  flows  through  the  walls  which 
start  from  the  foot  of  the  acropolis  hill  in  a  westerly  direction, 
curving  round  to  the  south  to  flow  out  by  another  water-gate. 
The  remains  of  a  bridge  are  met  with  immediately  above  the 
gate ;  below  and  outride  the  gate  is  a  mill.     Close  by  to  the 
west  is  the  principal  gateway  or  entrance  to  the  city,  the 
road  leading  to  the  bridge.    Near  the  gate  is  a  handsome  and 
massive  tomb.      The  slope  of  the  hill  below  the  acropolis  is 

*  Julian  *  Orat.'  i.  p.  27  ;  JuBtin  *  Excerpt,  e  Legat.*  p.  173  ;  Procop.  *  Bell. 
Persic'  i.  11. 

L  L  2 


I 


I 


m  U.  AEESV<»TH3  JOrVXEf  TO  C0S5TA5TI50PI 

A? ?X.  «oTfred  vHli  miie  of  booses,  aod  beyMtd  tbp  river  we 
-  RnKtnra  bekxiviDZ  to  a  MabomiDedaD  town,  whi< 
Kadex  «xifte<l  vrtciQ  the  precinctt  of  utcieiit  Dais.  These 
?^^°^  a  m-^KOie  «:ta  mioareliT  a  maiuioD  mud  a  tower,  : 
par:  r4  Tb«  hill  termiutes  in  low  c]iBs  over  the  wall. 
^-.C*  are  dotted  witb  sepulchral  grottoes.  There 
lytx*.  •wren  iiiQare  and  thi«e  circular,  befween 
waier-ca^es.  aivl  ooe  cirmlar  tower  bevond ;  but  o 
tQiure  towers  west  of  the  eenttal  water-gate,  and  at  tb' 
w«s<  fsticmity  o{  tbe  wall  are  the  niiiu  of  a  temple, 
lar2«  bttftioo  in  part  cat  in  solid  rock.  In  the 
f^:-nioa  of  the  preeincta,  niiiu  of  a  Etill  larger  temp 
c4-M<f  bf  wfaiefa  are  some  domed  raultf,  and  at  the 
this  w^etitrlr  hill  are  the  remains  of  a  large  mansion  c 
with  what  were  5npp>j«ed  to  be  granaries,  but  wbi 
lure  been  baira^ks,  in  front.  These  last  stmctures 
the  chief  entrance. 

There  ws?  a  Fmall  vill^ie  in  the  rear  of  the  palace 
as  in  front  of  the  acropolis.  A  qaarrr  and  sepulcbi 
t--«5  exifted  (ome  little  distance  to  the  eastward,  but  t 
necropolis  was  in  the  cliff!>  to  tbe  westward,  where  we 
orer  oOO  tombs,  manv  of  tbem  grottoes  with  on 
fii^ades.  Some  of  these  were  elaborately  sculptui 
cj-prewes.  birds,  and  other  derices.  They  were  e 
in  ».>me  instances  Saseanian,  for  we  found  the  usua 
of  ^}d  with  wings  and  scroll,  or  Kasti,  as  also  tfa 
seiitati<>ns  of  fire-temples.  *>n  one  we  read  pi 
impnf^  mntUated  infcripHoD— VITOKNAHE  OK  OVT 
^P-  and  on  another  the  woid  MONHOI.  The  palac 
litter  ruin,  but  the  granaries  or  barracks  had  a  vat 
trance  80  feet  long,  with  three  fllghto  of  steps  in( 
apartment  supported  by  four  sqnare  pillars  with  arcbi 
apartment  was  SO  feet  long  by  Io6  feet  19  inches  wi 
recea°e«  about  6  feet  high. 
Hutcf7  of  Dara — or  Darae,  as  it  b  written  by  Procopius — p 
^^"*-  important  part  in  the  wars  of  the  Lower  Empire,  ai 
Sassanian  dynasty.  According  to  the  historian  of  th( 
wars,  it  was  raised  from  a  village  to  h  city  by  the  ! 
Anastasius,  who  gave  it  bis  own  name,  and  called  it  Ai 
polls.      Procopins  also  gave  a  full  account  of  the 


1 


MR.  AINSWORTU'S   JOURNEY   TO   CONSTANTINOPLE,  517 

which  Daras  was  fortified,*  and  which  Gibbon  has  remarked     APPX. 
may  be  considered  as  representing  the  military  architecture  '  _ . 

of  the  age.     Procopius  also  gives  an  account  of  a  marvellous  M^^^el- 
fountain  of  water,  whose  source,  on  a  neighbouring  height,  tain, 
was  in  such  a  position  that  the  supply  could  not  be  cut  off 
by  an  enemy,  while,  at  the  same  time,   it  was  distributed 
through  the  town  to  the  inhabitants  by  various  channels,  no 
one  knowing  whither  it  went  on  reaching  the  outer  walls^f 
It  is  probable  that  the  reservoir  at  the  foot  of  the  acropolis 
is  here  alluded  to,  for  we  have  seen  how  the  river  turns  from 
thence  to  run  in  a  curious  winding  manner  through  the  town. 
There  may,  however,  be  a  rock-spring  above  the  town  which 
escaped  our  notice ;  but  if  so,  it  would  be  at  such  a  distance 
(^for  we  sketched  the  whole  place)  as  not  to  be  easily  pre- 
vented   being   cut   off  by  the  enemy,  whilst  the  reservoir 
provided  a  certain  and  defensible  supply. 

Procopius  also  mentions  a  series  of  combats  which   took  Combats 
place  under  the  walls  of  Daras,  between  the  Romans  under  Romans 
£elisarius  and  the  Persians,  J  by  which  the  Romans  maintained  and 
the  town,  owing  to  the  admirable  military  dispositions  of 
Belisarius.     Daras  fell  at  last  into  the  hands  of  the  Persians 
during  the  reign  of  Justin  II.  (a.d.  574),  after  a  memorable 
siege    of  six   months  by   Chosroes  II.§     The   campaign    of 
!Marcian  took  place  in  the  eighth  year  of  Justin,  and  the 
result  of  the  fall  of  Daras  was  the  disgrace  of  the  general, 
a  truce  with  the  Persians,  and  the  appointment  of  Tiberius 
as  an  associate  in  the  empire. 

Theophanes  ||  says  that  the  general  who  took  Daras,  and 
subsequently  concluded  the  above-mentioned  peace,  was 
Hormuzd  IV.,  who  succeeded  Chosroes.  It  is  not  a  little 
curious  that  a  writer  in  Smith's  '  Dictionary  of  Greek  and 
Soman  Geography,' 1^  says  D'Anville,**  has  tried,  but  we  think 
in  vain,  to  find  any  town  or  ruins  which  may  mark  the  site 
of  Daras.  Surely  the  many  who  have  travelled  along  the 
high-road  from  Bagdad  to  Constantinople  must  have  seen 
the  ruins  of  Daras,  if  only  from  a  distance  ? 

♦  •  Bell.  Persic'  ii.  13.  §  Theophyl.  •  Hist.  Maur.'  iii.  9,  10. 
t  'Bell.  Goth.'  iv.  7.  ||  Ap.  Phot.  Cod.  64  ;  Evagr.  v.  8-10. 

♦  »  Bell.  Persic'  i.  13.  1|  Art.  'Daras.' 

**  ♦  L'Euphrate  et  le  Tigre,'  p.  53. 


MS  UB.  AINSWOBTH'S  JOUBKBT  to  CONSTANTINOPLE 


I 

H  AFPX.         A  Bhort  ride  of  eighteen  miles  took  as  next  diiy  (Tu 

B     .  ._^-:_-   March   2'i)  to  Mardin.     There  were  no  Tillages  on  tt 

^K  VudiB.       part  of  the  jouroe;,  but  as  we  approached  the  hills,  we  ' 

^B  Kur  UanD-urth-a-tel,  a  village  of  Christians  called  i 

R  and  a  mosque  with  mioareh  attached,  which  was  designs 

Kuzar  or  Koiar.  On  a  Bubeequent  occasion,  keeping 
the  high-road,  we  saw  a  ruined  castle  on  the  same 
called  Kasr  Buij,  in  which,  according  to  a  tradition  r 
to  us  by  a  Chaldean  bishop,  a  son  of  Darius  once  livei 
on  the  same  plain,  in  front  of  Dara,  wan  a  large  gri 
known  as  Aubur  Dara.  There  was  a  further  castle 
Kasr  Sir-khan.  We  found  the  three  Persian  princes- 
Mirza,  Majaf  Afirza,  and  Taiuiur  Mirza — who  bad  beei 
visit  to  England,  located  at  Mardin,  on  their  wa;  bi 
I  H  Bahdad,  and  we  spent  the  evening  with  them,  talki 

'[  Farsistan. 

f[    I  11.  «»■«■-       The  next  day  (Wednesday,  March  29)  was  devote 

visit  to  a  group  of  monasterieB,  situated  in  a  hilly  and 
recess  in  the  Jebel  Tur,  about  four  miles  east  of  tfae 
The  chief  of  these  monasteries,  once  the  residence 
celebrated  historian  Abu'l  Faraj,  was  appropriately 
Dar-i-Safran,  or  the  *  yellow  monastery,'  from  the  col 
the  surrounding  summulitic  limestones.  Mar  Gre 
Ahutfaragius,  also  called  Gregorius  Bar-hebrsua,  was  b 
'  I  1 226,  at  Malatiyah ;  and  after  being  Bishop  of  Aleppo,  I 

!  elected  Patriarch  or  Primate  of  all  the  Jacobite  Christi 

I '  the  East,  in  1266,  when  he  resided  at  Dar-i-Safran. 

f'l  monastery  was  a  spacious   building,  which  contained 

'  churches  -  one  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  another  to' 

t  (St.  James),  and  tiie  third  to  ZizalL      One,  I  believ 

claimed  by  the  Syrian  Romanists,  the  other  by  the  Jaa 
and  the  third  by  the  Syro-Chaldeans.      These  churchei 
much  ornamented,  and  we  were  also  shown  a  vaidted  cbi 
]  reserved  for  the  sepulture  of  the  patriarchs. 

"^  CBlrndar         There  is  preserved  in  this  monastery  a  Calendar  of  E 

1       '  ofEimtB.    ^jijpj,  jg  written  in  three  columns  — one  devoted  to  th< 

'  '  and  ecclesiastical  affidrs,  another  to  history,  and  a  th 

philosophy  and  literature.  It  was  begun  by  Abu'l  Fa 
Syro-Cbaldean,  the  chapters  being  headed  in  Estran^ 
it  was  continued  in  Syriac,  and  latterly  it  is  written  in 


I! 


MIL  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE,  519 

sboni^  or  Arabic  written  in  Syriac  characters*     It  is  the  duty     APPX 
of  each  successive  patriarch  to  keep  this  record  up  to  the  -  ^'  .  - 
times,  but,  considering  the  utter  ignorance  of  the  outer  world 
in  which  these  poor  monks  live,  it  must  be  a  strange  com- 
pilation.    Mr.  Bassam  kindly  copied  for  me  the  names  of 
fourteen  of  the  Kings  of  Nineveh,  as  recorded  in  this  curious  Kings  of 
manuscript.    These  were:  1.  Ninus,  contemporary  with  Abra-  Nineveh. 
bam ;    2.    Damaus ;    3.    Belaus,  contemporary  with  Jacob ; 
4.  Mamlus,   epoch    of  Egyptian  bondage  ;    5.  Skatris  ;    6. 
Amontis,  epoch  of  Moses  and  of  Ramsis  (Rameses)  in  Egypt; 
7.  Alapris;  8.  Seraperidus;  9.  Susarius;  10.  Sempirus;  11. 
Susarmus;    12.  Metrus ;    13.  Tutanis;    14.  Totanus.      This 
list  woul'd  puzzle  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  or  even  our  friend 
Mr.  Bosanquet. 

Leaving  Dar-i-Safran,  we  ascended  the  cliffs  to  Dar-i-  Dar-i- 
Yakub,  a  mere  series  of  galleries  and  grottoes  hewn  out  of 
the  perpendicular  face  of  the  rock ;  in  some  of  which  the 
water,  dribbling  through  the  vaults,  was  collected  in  pear- 
shaped  cavities,  covered  over  with  a  single  large  stone.  Not 
far  from  these  untenanted  hermitages,  was  another  so-called 
monastery  of  the  Holy  Lady  (Dar-i-SuyidT),  similarly  situated. 
There  was  a  church  attached  to  the  latter,  which  we  reached 
by  a  gallery  hewn  out  of  the  face  of  the  rock.  It  is  still  in 
use,  but  no  monks  lived  in  the  grottoes.  The  gardens  of  the 
monks  were  disposed  in  terraces,  and  appeared  to  be  well 
kept. 

Between  Mardin  and  Dar-i-Safran  we  passed  a  Christian  Kalah 
village  called  Kalah  Ma'arah,  or  'woman's  castle,'  with  a  ^^'*™b. 
church  dedicated  to  St.  George.  The  castle  whence  the 
village  derives  its  name  is  now  a  ruin  on  a  precipitous  hill  to 
the  south,  and  to  the  north-east  of  the  monastery  was  Dar-i- 
Kirikus,  or  the  monastery  of  St.  George,  and  the  Christian 
village  of  Binabi.  All  these  villages  had  their  gardens  and 
vineyards,  and  the  peasants  seemed  as  happy  and  cheerful  as 
their  rocky  homes  were  pleasant  and  picturesque  to  look  at. 

We  left  Mardin  the  next   day  (Friday,  March  31)  by  a  Leave 
hilly  country,  the  slopes  often  covered  with  ilex,  the  valleys     *    "** 
mostly  cultivated,  the  course  of  the  rivulets  being  marked  by 
poplar  and  willow-trees,  and  the  whole  enlivened  at  this  sea- 
son of  the  year  by  flowering  almond-trees.    We  were,  as  usual^ 


520 


MB.  AIXSWORTH  S  JOURNEY   TO   CONST AOTIXOPLE. 


APPX. 
XI. 

Shoikli 
Khan. 


detained  in  the  morning,  and  only  succeeded  in  effecting 

five  hours^  ride  to  Sheikh  Khan^  a  mere  cayem,  walled  in  ai 

made  to  serve  as  a  caravanserai,  with  a  deserted  village  cloi 

by.     We  travelled  for  two  and  a  quarter  hours  next  mornii 

iHjfore  we  came  to  a  village  where  we  could  get  a  draught  t 

milk.    An  hour  farther  was  Khan  Kajurin,  and  a  little  beyonc 

Kuh  Tuz,  a  village  at  a  point  where  the  country  began  t 

open.    The  hills  were  less  abrupt^  the  valleys  more  exteDsir( 

and  cultivation  more  generaL    The  ruins  of  Kalah  Dar-zuwa 

occupied  the  summit  of  an  adjacent  hilL      Passing  Kbai 

Kajuri,  we  came  to  Ak-bunar^  the  *  clear  or  white  spring, 

where  we  were  to  have  put  up ;  but  the  khan  being  occupies 

bv  the  Pacha  of  Mardin  and  his  retinue,  we  rode  aside  to  i 

village  called  Tanspin  Teppeh.    From  this  point  one  of  thos 

stony  uplands  of  volcanic  origin,  so  common   in   Norther 

Alesopotamia,  extended  all  the  way  to  Diyarbekr,  a  distanc 

of  eighteen  miles,  where  we  arrived  on  the  afternoon  of  Sun 

day,  April  2.     The  bends  of  the  River  Tigris  alone  afforde 

variety  to  the  journey,  and  live  miles  from  the  city  of  Dijai 

bekr  we  passed  Sharukhi,  village  and  mill,  with  a  bridge 

with  the  villages  of  Kajuri  on  the  opposite  side,  and  Kal 

Kuuy  to  the  north. 

Diyarbekr  stands  upon  basaltic  rocks  which  rise  hig 
and  precipitously  above  the  River  Tigris,  and  on  its  ligi 
bank,  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  lofty  well-built  wall 
defended  by  towers,  some  of  which  are  rectangular,  othe 
semicircular.  They  are,  however,  of  various  sizes  ai 
heights.  On  the  east  or  river  side,  the  walls  are  lower  th£ 
elsewliere,  being  built  upou  the  edge  of  a  somewhat  precip 
tous  line  of  rock.  The  walls  are  also  in  a  much  l)etter  coi 
dition  in  some  parts  than  in  others.  As  in  most  other  Orient 
cities,  the  walls  and  towers  appear  to  have  been  erected 
various  periods,  as  seen  by  the  fragments  of  old  structur 
built  into  them.  Some  of  the  towers  are  ornamented  i 
designs  of  lions  and  suns,  and  have  Greek,  Latin,  and  Ku 
inscriptions,  commemorative,  probably,  of  their  respecti 
The  gates,  builders  or  repairers.  The  gates  are  four  in  number,  and  t 
very  massive — the  Dagh  Kapi,  or  *  Mountain  gate,'  on  t 
north ;  the  Rum  Kapi,  or  Roman  gate,  on  the  west ;  t 
Mardin  gate,  on  the  south  \  and  the  Yani'  Kapi.  or  *  New  gai 


Dijarbekr. 


Its  walls 
and  towers. 


KR.  AINSWORTH's   JOURXEY  TO   COXSTAXTIXOPLE.  521 

on  the  east.     The  city  contains  about  57  jamis  and  musjids —     APPX. 
the  former,  as  before  observed,  being  a  superior  description   ^      .      - 
of  mosque,  having  one  or  more  minarehs  attached  to  it.  There  Mosques, 
is  also  a  Chaldean  church,  the  district  of  Diyarbekr  being  a  Churches. 
Chaldean  episcopate,  and  an  Armenian  church  dedicated  to 
Surp  Gregorio,  or  Saint  Gregory.    Several  ancient  but  ruined 
buildings  are  met  with  in  the  town,  which  also  boasts  of  some 
large  and  handsome  khans  and  baths.     Hasan  Pacha  Khan, 
close  to  the  great  mosque,  is  especially  a  handsome  building. 
One  of  the  most  curious  monuments  in  Diyarbekr  (ancient 
Amida)  are  the  remains  of  what  Texier  deemed  to  be  the 
ancient  palace  of  Tigranes,  afterwards  occupied  by  Shapur  II. 
The  citadel  occupies  the  north-east  angle  of  the  town,  and  The  dta- 
has  two  gates.      Within  it  is  the  serai',  palace,  or  Pacha's       • 
residence,  a  poor  building.     Adjoining  the  serai  is  a  high 
rectangular  tower,  to  which  a  mosque  is  attached,  but  which  is 
itself  supposed  to  have  been  the  belfry  of  a  Christian  church. 
The  town  is  supplied  witli  water  from  the  westward  by  an 
aqueduct,  which  is  carried  through  the  walls   between  the 
Rum  and  Dagh  Kapis.     Close  to  this  point,  inside  the  town, 
is  a  tank,  about  five  or  six  feet  deep,  formed  by  a  spring 
issuing  from  the  rock,  and  whicli   contains  fish  which  are 
deemed  to  be  sacred — as  at  Orfah,  Membij,  and  other  places. 
We  have  now  a  resident  consul  at  Diyarbekr.     Mr.  Taylor,  Scientific 
the  first  consul,  and  Mr.  Holmes,  who  succeeded  him,  have  ^^P^o^o™- 
been  both  distinguished  for  their  archaeological  attainments ; 
and  much  has  been  done  by  the  distinguished  French  archae- 
ologist, M.  Texier,  as  also  by  Mr.  Garden,  assisted  by  M. 
Jaba,  Russian  consul  at  Erzerura,  towards  exploring  the  city 
and  neighbourhood  of  Diyarbekr,  and  deciphering  some  of 
the  numerous  inscriptions.* 

Hafiz  Pacha,  subsequently  the  unfortunate  commander  of  Hafiz 
the  Turkish  army  at  Nizib,  was  busy,  at  the  epoch  of  our  visit,  ^***^°*' 
making  preparations  for  a  campaign  against  the  Sinjarlis, 
He  was  much  interested  with  mineralogical  enquiries;  and 
having  collected  some  of  the  sands  of  the  river,  which  abound 
in  iserine  or  magnetic  iron,  he  was  so  delighted  at  seeing  the 
facility  with  which  the  iron  could  be  separated  from  the  sand 

•  *  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Societ}','  vol.  xxjiv.  p.  21 ;  voL  zzxTii. 
p.  182 ;  and  '  Proceedingfi/  vol.  ix.  No.  11,  and  toI.  xi.  No.  11. 


522 


MK.  AIKSWOBTH  8  JOURNBT   TO   OOySTASTVSOFUL 


APPX. 
XL 


Set  out  to 
risit  the 
mine*. 


Town  of 
Arghftna. 


by  a.  magnet,  that  he  insiated  upon  our  mounting  at  on 
and  proceeding  with  him  through  the  town  and  out  of  i 
Mardiu  gate,  down  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  to  see  the  ii 
in  9^iiu.  He  had  also  a  collection  of  copper  ores,  includinj 
beautiful  piece  of  malachite  from  the  mines  of  Arghana ;  a 
he  was  exceedingly  anxious  that  I  should  remain  in  t 
country,  and  superintend  the  working  of  the  copper-miD< 
but  I  did  not  feel  myself,  being  at  that  time  attached  to  t 
Euphrates  Expedition,  at  liberty  to  accept  the  offer. 

With  Mr.  Bassam's  kind  assistance  I  obtained  some  curie 
extracts  from  an  old  Chaldean  and  Arabic  dictionary  preserv 
in  the  Syrian  church  of  Saint  Bethune,  as  also  from  some  c 
historical  works,  also  preserved  in  the  same  monastery, 
one  of  these  (Baluli's  Dictionary)  Calah  was  identified  wi 
Al-Hadhr,  ArbU  with  Rehoboth  (Rehoboth-Ir),  and  Larii 
with  Besen  (Bochart's  old  identification). 

We  left  Diyarl)ekr  on  Wednesday,  April  5,  provided  wi 
horses  and  an  official  attendant  by  the  hospitable  Pacl 
to  visit  the  mines,  a  courier  having  also  been  despatched 
advance.  We  were,  as  usual,  late  in  getting  away,  and  did  i 
therefore  arrive  at  our  halting-place — Shirbat  or  '  Sherb 
Khan,  also  called  Murad  Sultan*s  Khan — till  two  hours  i^ 
dark.  Our  ride  lay  for  five  long  hours  over  the  same  dres 
stony,  volcanic  country  that  led  up  to  Diyarbekr  from  1 
south,  and  which  probably  stretches  to  the  Karajia  Tagh 
tlie  west. 

Beyond  the  khan  the  character  of  the  country  underw< 
an  entire  change,  the  volcanic  rocks  being  succeeded  by  Ud 
stones,  sandstones,  and  marls,  which  rise  in  successive  ran] 
towards  the  culminating-point  of  Arghana.  The  town 
Arghana  was,  by  barometer,  at  an  elevation  above  the  sea 
3,074  feet;  and  on  the  same  hill,  called  Kalah  Dagh, 
*  Castle  hill,'  was  a  sepulchral  chapel,  some  400  feet  above  i 
town,  called  Tul  Kaphal,  and  said  to  contain  the  bones  o 
holy  Christian ;  but,  like  the  reputed  tomb  of  the  Prop) 
Jonah  at  Kineveh,  and  many  others,  claimed  by  the  Moha 
medans.  At  the  southern  extremity  of  the  hill  was 
Armenian  monastery  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  ornamented  ^ 
tiles  as  well  as  paintings,  and  with  sculptures  over  the  dc 
way.     Arghana  constituted  our  halting-place  on  Thursd 


MB.  AINSWOBTH'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  523 

April  6,  and  on  the  7th  we  rode  to  Madan  Kapur,  or  the     APPX. 
copper-mines^  the  most  productive  of  all  in   the  Ottoman  .      . 
Empire.     On  our  way  we  found  the  sedimentary  formations 
much  broken  up  by  diallage  rocks  metamorphosed  at  places, 
and  containing  highly  carbonised  shales.     It  is,  indeed,  yery 
uncertain  if  lignite  deposits  do  not  occur  in  this  part  of  the 
Taiurus  which  would  be  worth  sinking  for;   but  a  minute 
account  of  the  structure  of  the  chain  at  this  point  is  given, 
with  detailed  sections,  in  my  '  Researches,'  &c.,  and  need  not, 
therefore,  be  repeated  here.     Copper  abounds  to  such  an  ex-  Copper- 
tent  in  the  mining  district  that  we  actually  detected  powerful  ™"*^- 
veins  of  pyrites  in  the  watercourses.   The  copper  is  transported 
hence  to  Tokat,  to  be  smelted ;  and  it  is  not  a  little  amusing 
to  read  in  some  speculative  schemes  for  railways  across  Asia 
Minor,  recently  published,  of  the  copper-mines    of  Tokat 
as  among  the  incentives  to  investment.      We  spent  no  less 
than  four  days  exploring  the  mines  and  the  adjacent  hills,  in 
the  latter  of  which  I  had  strong  hopes  of  meeting  with  depo- 
sits of  lignite  coal,  but  without  success. 

At  length,  on  Wednesday,  April  12,  we  started  to  con- 
tinue our  journey,  passing  Khan  Ujah  (four  hours  from 
Arghana  Madan)  and  the  plain  of  Ali-uda  to  the  beautiful 
lake  called  Kur-jik  Kuli  (ancient  Colchis),  which  constitutes 
one  of  the  sources  of  the  Western  Tigris.  At  its  south-east 
extremity  was  a  snow-clad  mountain  called  Azara.  Mr. 
Taylor  has  since  discovered  the  true  sources  of  the  Tigris,  or  Somcei 
of  its  eastern  branch,  called  Zibeneh,  in  a  subterranean  pas-  Yi^Ib, 
sage  or  cave  near  Eggil  (ancient  Inghilene),  as  also  memorial 
tablets  of  the  Assyrian  kings,  the  character  of  which  has 
been  explained  by  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson.*  Mr.  Taylor  also 
claims  to  have  discovered  the  oft-disputed  site  of  Tigrano- 
certa  at  the  ruins  of  Kefer-juz  (pronounced  Kafir-jQz),  near 
the  Jacobite  town  of  Madiyat  in  the  Msesius. 

The  westerly  tributaries  of  the  Tigris  are  divided  from  the 
waters  flowing  into  the  Euphrates  by  a  ridge  of  hills,  called, 
from  the  pass,  Dawah  Buaini,  the  crest  of  which  attained,  by  Pass  of 
barometrical  observation,  an  elevation  of  4,246  feet,  or  about  ^?'^?- 
700  feet  above  the  lake.     The  dascent  hence  led  us  into  the 
fine  large  cultivated  plain  of  Kharput  Dawassi,  dotted  with 

*  *  Proce<>ding8  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society/  vol.  iz.  No.  1 1. 


i 


524  IIB.  AIXSWOBTUS  JOUBNBT  TO  COSBTASTDSOP 

APPX.  Tillages,  and  cummunicating  with  another  more  limiti 
^^-  .  out  of  which  rose  a  bold  and  almost  isolated  rock, 
yt..  r„  the  town  and  castle  of  Kharpiit  on  its  summit.  W 
the  night  of  April  1 2  at  the  village  of  Kuuk,  oti  the 
Dawassi,  and  that  of  Thursday,  April  13,  at  Kbarpi 
exploring  the  castle,  the  neigbbourtag  ruins  and  v 
Sar-ik,  and  the  barracks  and  modem  erections  on  t 
below. 

Cedrenua  ■  notices  this  ancient  stronghold  under  t 
of  XdgrroTf.  It  was  called  by  the  Syrians  Khurtbia 
ville  writes  it  Charblat ;  Herbelot,  Khartahist ;  and  J 
Hai'elbaret).  There  is  every  reason  to  believe  it  t< 
Curcftthiocerta  of  Straho  (si.  p.  527)  and  Pliny  ( 
which  was  the  capital  of  Sophene,  one  of  the  ca: 
Armenia.  Mr.  Taylor  has  also  brought  to  light, 
Cnmding  Armenian  author,  that  the  two  crusading  chiefs,  Ba 
rcmiQi*-  Boiirg,  Connt  of  Edessa  (Orfah),  and  JoceljTi  de  C 
having  been  made  priMnera  by  Sickroan  ihn  Artuk, 
was  imprisoned  at  Hesn  Keyf,  or  Hisn  Kaif  (Krst  br 
notice  by  Captain  Lynch),  on  the  Tigris,  and  Ba 
Mosul ;  that,  after  being  liberated,  they  were  aga 
prisoners  with  Waleran,  a  kinsman  of  Jocelyn's,  and 
were  incarcerated  at  Kharpiit,  whence  they  were  set  i 
by  a  valiant  hand  of  Armenians  of  Behesni.  Balak,  j 
of  Artuk,  having  recaptured  the  castle,  he  destroyed, 
ing  to  Matthew  of  Edesaa  and  Ahu'l  Fada,  all  his  p 
consisting  of  sixty-live  men  and  eighty  '  beautiful  la 
throwing  them  over  the  battlements  into  the  plain  belo 
castle  of  Kharput  has  thus  a  melancholy  interest  attac 
even  in  the  eyes  of  Europeans :  and  when  we  consider  tl 
r^ions  were  the  great  battle-field  between  the  Rou; 
Persians  during  the  early  centuries  of  the  Christian  < 
it  was  across  these  hilly  districts  that  the  frontier  of 
kingdoms  ran ;  and  that  there  were  constant  sieges 
and  skirmishes  and  marches,  along  its  whole  exten 
have  been  partially  recorded  by  the  historians  of  tt 
Empire,  its  walls  would,  if  tbey  could  speak,  rehite  ] 
many  another  sad  and  dismal  story. 

•  'Hial.  Comp.'  vol.  ii.  p.  686. 

t  *  Jooraal  of  thr  Boynl  GeogTKphical  Sodrty,'  toL  xkxt.  p. 


/ 


MR-  AINSWORTH's  JOURNEY  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  525 

Friday y  April  14. — Crossed  the  plain  of  Kul-wansh,  with     APPX. 
several  villages  buried  in  gardens  and  orchards,  and  a  rivulet  .  . 

in  \X»  centre,  to  KhutaJ ;  and  then  came  the  next  day  to  a 
narrow  band  of  hornblende  rocks,  amid  limestones  which 
repose  at  Gumesh  MaMan  *  silver-mines,'  or  Kapan  Ma'dan,  Gumesh 
as  they  are  also  called,  upon  mica  and  chlorite  slates  tilted  up  and  Kapan 
by  granite.  The  most  productive  silver  veins  are  met  with  Ma'dan 
at  the  jimction  of  the  mica  schists  and  the  limestones.  The  ™^'*^'* 
town  of  Kapar  itself  is  situated  on  granite  rock,  below  the  mines 
and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  River  Euphrates.  We  spent  two 
days  here,  thoroughly  exploring  the  mines,  from  which  we  ob- 
tained many  interesting  minerals,  among  which  were  chlorides 
of  silver  and  red  sulphuret  of  silver  and  antimony.  Our  ex- 
plorations were  not  unaccompanied  by  danger,  for  the  galleries 
were  carried  in  places  through  steatitic  clays  and  carbona- 
ceous marls  without  any  proper  support,  and  there  were  also 
large  caverns  in  the  rock  with  crystalline  gypsum  in  drusic 
cavities.  We  also  obtained  sulphate  of  copper,  carbonate  of 
lead,  and  arsenates  of  lead,  copper,  and  silver.  These  mines, 
which  are  at  once  numerous  and  extensive,  were  said  to  yield 
13,000  maunds  or  11^5,000  lbs.  of  lead,  and  400  okas  or 
1,000  lbs.  of  silver  annually.  130  maunds  or  1,950  lbs.  of  ar- 
gentiferous galena  were  said  to  yield  2^  to  3  okas,  6  to  7  lbs. 
(6  okas  to  the  maund)  of  silver.    There  were  twelve  furnaces. 

Tuesday f  April  18. — Crossing  the  Euphrates,  which  flows 
past  the  hills  from  N.  80°  E.  to  S.  30°  W.,  curving  round 
nearly  due  south,  we  found  ourselves  still  in  a  granitic  coun-  Granitic 
try  with  a  lofty  mountain,  which  had  been  long  visible,  called  ^<^^*^- 
Azi  Kur,  to  the  NW.  The  granites  were,  however,  soon  suc- 
ceeded by  limestones  and  chalk,  with  basaltic  rocks ;  and  the 
country  became  more  cultivated  and  dotted  with  villages,  at 
one  of  which,  called  Kur-tchn,  we  put  up  for  the  night.  The 
next  day  (Wednesday,  April  IP)  was  occupied  in  passing 
over  the  Kul  Dagh,  or  *  lake  mountain,'  volcanic,  with  lime- 
stones, and  upon  which  were  still  many  patches  of  snow; 
and  then  descending  the  same  to  the  town  of  Arab  Kir,  or 
Arab  Kail,  as  it  is  commonly  called,  a  straggling  place  with 
a  population  of  about  8,000  souls,  of  whom  6,000  are  Arme- 
nians, consisting  chiefly  of  cottages  embosomed  in  orchards 
and  gardens,  with  groves  of  plane,  poplar,  and  willow. 


MR.  AINSWORTh's  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  527 

jami  of  Diunk  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  specimens  of  the     APPX. 
florid  Saracenic  that  we  had  met  with.    The  same  edifice  con-   ^    ^^    . 
tained  a  *  mihrab,'  or  pulpit,  of  excellent  workmanship. 

It  took  us  the  whole  of  Sunday,  April  23,  to  cross  the  Oeological 
lofty  Dumbugh  Dagh,  the  country  presenting  so  many  features  of  the 
of  geological  and  mineralogical  interest  that  it  was  impossible  country. 
to  get  on.  First  we  had  limestone,  with  a  gi-eat  variety  of 
diall£^  rocks,  containing  oligiste  or  specular  iron  in  sitH,  so 
that  what  occurs  in  boulders  in  the  valley  might  easily  be 
wrought  at  the  fountain-head ;  then  we  had  granitic  and 
gyenitic  rocks,  one  bed  of  the  former  of  which,  of  a  light  pink 
colour,  I  found  to  be  rich  in  disseminated  gold.  We  stopped 
at  the  village  of  Siliski,  situated  on  the  Kumar  Su,  with  Siliski. 
a  bridge  in  the  valley  below,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were 
engaged  in  smelting  iron  ore  actually  in  their  own  houses.* 
The  same  afternoon  I  examined  some  hills  to  the  north,  of 
most  varied  structure,  but  chiefly  steaschists  and  serpentines, 
with  beds  of  diallage  and  actynolitic  rock,  in  which  I  found 
veins  of  sulphuret  of  silver  and  curious  pisolitic  chalcedony. 
I  never  was  in  a  country  so  rich  in  minerals,  and  only  regret 
that  I  had  not  the  means  of  testing  the  river-sands,  which 
were  rich  in  iserine,  for  gold,  by  means  of  quicksilver.  If  a 
mere  hasty  examination,  such  as  I  was  able  to  give  to  it, 
produced  such  remarkable  results,  what  might  not  be  done 
by  a  more  minute  and  careful  exploration  ?  Every  formation 
in  the  neighbourhood  abounded  in  its  own  peculiar  minerals; 
the  granites  in  gold  and  precious  stones,  the  steaschists  and 
serpentines  in  silver  ores,  the  limestones  in  iron,  and  the 
very  watercourses  were  choked  with  useful  minerals. 

Beyond  Siliski,  these  various  rocks,  so  rich  in  minerals.  Country 
were,  however,  succeeded  by  non-metalliferous  gaps,  beds  ot  ^°^^ 
gypsum,  alternating  with  sandstones  at  the  Valley  of  Sinjan, 
and  extending  all  the  way  to  Yarbasan  and  to  the  foot  of  the 
Kara  Bel  mountains — ^the  ancient  Paryadres.  The  mountain 
torrents,  meeting  with  little  or  no  opposition  from  these 
friable  sedimentary  deposits,  often  coursed  through  subterra- 
nean channels,  passing  beneath  precipices  and  reappearing  at 
short  distances — sometimes  falling  in  cascades  into  yawning 

»  The  Kumar  Su  joins  the  river  of  Divrik,  and  together  they  flow  into  the 
Euphrates. 


MB.  AINSWOBTH'S  JOUBNEY  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  529 

eloaks  of  oflSce  to  sundry  Aghas,  or  governors  of  villages  and     APPX. 
districtfi — the  ceremony  being  enlivened  by  the  pranks  of  a     /^'    - 
fool,  who  shook  a  stick  with  bells  attached  to  it.     The  scene  Visit  to 
was  altogether  more  suggestive  of  the  Middle  Ages  than  of  '^®  Pacba. 
the  nineteenth  century.     Hafiz  Pacha  and  Izzet  Mohammed 
Pacha,  of  Angora,  were  men  far  more  in  advance  of  their 
time  than  the  Pacha  of  Sivas.     The  town  or  city — which  was 
said,  in   round   numbers,    to   contain   5,000   Mohammedan 
and   1,000  Armenian  houses — does  a  considerable  business 
in  cereals,  which  constitute  the  chief  produce  of  the  plain ; 
for  at  an  elevation  of  nigh  5,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  neither  mulberries,  grapes,  nor  pomegranates  were  said  to 
flourish. 

The  old  wells  of  the  city  no  longer  exist ;  but  there  are  Castel- 
ruins  of  two  castles  of  different  epochs,  one  of  which  appears  ^^^^ 
to  have  belonged  to  the  Kings  of  Pontus,  to  have  been 
strengthened  by  the  Somans,  and  dilapidated  by  the  wars 
with  the  Mohammedans,  who  again  built  it  up  on  former 
ruins ;  the  other  is  a  ruder  structure,  apparently  of  the 
Osmanli  era.  There  is  also  a  large  Christian  monastery, 
which  was  erected  to  celebrate  the  well-known  martyrdom  of 
the  •  Forty  of  Sivas.' 

Sivas  was,  it  is  necessary  to  observe,  the  ancient  Sebasteia,  Sivas. 
which,  being  near  the  frontier,  Pliny  regarded  as  not  be- 
longing to  Pontus,  but  to  Colopene  in  Cappadocia.*  The 
town  existed,  as  a  small  place,  before  the  dominion  of  the 
Bomans  in  these  parts,  but  its  ancient  name  is  unknown. 
The  present  one  is  a  corruption  of  Sebaste,  just  like  the  well- 
known  Suez,  or  Sivas,  on  the  Red  Sea.  Pompey  increased 
the  town,  and  gave  it  the  name  of  Megalopolis;  f  and  during 
the  imperial  rSgime  it  appears  to  have  risen  to  coDsiderable 
importance,  so  that  in  the  later  division  of  the  Empire  it  was 
made  the  capital  of  Armenia  Minor.  It  is  also  mentioned  as 
a  large  and  flourishing  town  of  Cappadocia  in  the  time  of  the 
Byzantine  Empire ;  and  the  Emperor  Justinian  is  described 
by  Procopius  J  as  having  restored  its  walls. 

The  identity  of  Sebasteia  with  the  modern  Sivas  is  esta-  Ancient 
blished  partly  by  the  resemblance  of  names,  and  partly  by  the 

»  Pliny,  vi.  3 ;  Ptol.  v.  6,  §  10;  Ilicruc.  p.  702;  8t  Antonin.  pp.  204,  206. 
t  Strab.  xil  p.  560.  t  'i>o  iEdif.'  iii.  4. 

M  M 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  531 

tenanted  by  innumerable  pigeons.     We  passed  the  night  at     APPX. 
the  village  of  Bulaz,  and  had  but  a  short  ride,  the  next  day,  to 


the  beautiful  town  of  Tokat,  embosomed  among  wood-clad 
hills,  the  houses  stretching  out  amid  gardens  and  orchards, 
with  the  fiue  open  and  cultivated  valley  of  the  Yashil  Irmak 
(or  Iris)  beyond,  and  several  castellated  buildings  on  the 
hills  around. 

Seen  from  the  south,  or  from  the  valley  of  Iris,  Tokat,  with  Tokat. 
its  ruined  castle  picturesquely  situated  on  a  steep  ridge  of 
limestone  rocks  to  the  west,  and  the  whole  town,  with  its 
pretty  houses,  with  tiled  roofs,  stretching  up  a  lateral  valley, 
and  extending  into  other  valleys  which  diverge  in  various 
directions,  embosomed  in  gardens,  presents  even  a  still  more 
striking  appearance.  The  town  appeared  to  Hamilton  to  be 
mean  and  dirty ;  but  coming,  as  we  did,  from  Sivas,  it  did  not 
80  impress  us,  either  now,  or  on  a  subsequent  visit  made  to  the 
game  place.*  The  Bazistan,  or  chief  bazaar,  is  solidly  built  of 
stone.  The  population  is  variously  estimated.  The  Christians  Itapopula- 
are,  however,  in  greater  number  than  the  Mohammedans ;  it  is  ^^°* 
supposed  that  there  are  about  1 ,000  Armenians  and  Greeks 
to  800  Mohammedans.  This,  however,  seems  to  be  rendered 
doubtful  by  the  fact  that  the  latter  have  some  fifteen  james 
and  mashids  (small  mosques),  whilst  the  Armenians  have 
only  one  good  church.  There  are  several  fine  old  khans  and 
hammams  or  baths.  The  steep  and  craggy  pinnacles  of  the 
castle  rock  are  surmounted  by  fragments  of  ruined  battle*  Ruins. 
ments  and  towers,  and  on  the  southern  scarp  are  several 
natural  and  artificial  caverns — probably  sepulchral  grottoes. 
A  flight  of  steps  is  found  halfway  up,  penetrating  into  the 
centre  of  the  mountain,  probably  to  a  reservoir ;  and  we  found 
several  great  stone  cannon-balls  lying  about  at  the  foot  of  the 
rock. 

It  is  not  certain  what  ancient  place  Tokat  represents.  Ancient 
Strabo  described  the  Iris  as  flowing  through  Comana  Pontica  '^^^^• 
and  the  fertile  plain  Daximonitis,  and  then  turning  to  the 
north  atGaziura(Turkhal).  In  the  book  on  the  Alexandrine 
War  (c.  35),  a  lofty  range  of  hills,  covered  with  forests,  is 
said  to  extend  from  Pontic  Comana  to  Armenia  Minor.  This 
description  would  correspond  to  the  position  of  Tokat,  but 

♦  •  Travelfl  in  the  Track  of  tho  Ten  Thousand/  vol.  ii.  p.  17. 


I 


532  Ml.  AI5SVrOBTH*S  /OUHNET  TO  0DN8TAKTIN0PL] 

APPX-  Hamilton  •  discovered  remains  of  an  ancient  town  and 
^  ^y  ^  on  the  Iris,  higher  up  than  Tokat,  and  which,  being 
*  Gumenek '  (Kiimanak ),  have  been  adopted  as  repref 
Cumana.  Tokat  may  represent  Talaura,  a  mountain  i 
in  Pont  us,  to  which  Mithridates  withdrew  with  hu 
precious  treasures,  which  were  afterwards  found  th< 
Luciilluawt 

Its  modem  name  is,  however,  derived  fix)m  the  Ei 
Eudocia,  during  whose  widowliood,  and  the  minority 
sons,  Comana  fell  into  the  hands  of  .the  Turks,  against 
Diogenes  Romanus  sent  an  army,  under  Ruselius,  and 
quently  under  other  generals.  It  is  found  in  many  ol( 
marked  as  Eudoxiaria  and  Eutochia.  Tokat  evidenl 
came  a  place  favoured  by  the  Turks,  for  we  find  one 
chiefs,  called  Ahmid  Allah-id-Kn,  styling  himself  Sul 
the  time  of  Bayand.  In  the  year  1471  Yusuf  Bey,  a  g 
of  Uzun  Hasan,  Prince  of  Kaisariyah,  invaded  the  disi 
Tokat,  but  he  was  defeated  by  Mustafah,  a  Seljukiyan  g 
I    J  Tokat  ultimately  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Osmanlis 

Itime  of  iSelim  I.} 
Cultirmtcd        Wednesday,  May  3. — We  enjoyed  the  (to  us)  rare 
*  Talley.        ^f  riding  for  an  hour  beyond  Tokat  in  a  valley  with 

road,  houses,  gardens,  and  mulberry  plantations,  which 
have  reminded  us  of  the  best  parts  of  Europe,  but  tha 
were  no  smiling  peasantry  to  gladden  the  scene ;  the 
were  not  \'isible,  and  as  to  the  few  peasants  met  wit! 
had  a  scowling  and  discontented  appearance.    Yet  is  1 
place  much  favoured  by  nature ;  it  produces  silk,  and 
variety  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  the  Armenians 
facture  a  very  fair  wine — a  thing  we  had  not  tasted  si 
left  Bagdad,  although  we  got  raki  at  Diyarbekr,  and 
rosoglio  at  Sivas. 
Aken  Passing  over  the  Aken  Tagh,  chiefly  mica-slates  an( 

*^"         stones,  covered  with  oak  and  pine,  we  entered  valley 
plane,  beech,  and  alder  trees,  and  occasional  pear,  app 
medlars.      These,  however,  grew  apart,  and  not  in 
affecting  particular  localities.  Afl^r  six  hours'  rather  la 
Sar-fou.       travel  we  arrived  at  Sar-pTn,  inhabited  by  charcoal-l 


• 


s*, 


*  '  Bebearches  m  Assyria,'  &c.  toI.  i.  p.  450. 

t  Dion  Cawins,  jjlxv.  14 ;  Appian.  Mitlirid.  p.  115. 

}  AJ>.  1514;  Hejtra  921. 


0 


MR.  AIXSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  533 

This  village  alone  was  said  to  supply  the  copper  furnaces  of  APPX. 
Tokat  with  15,000  loads  of  charcoal  annually ;  but  upwards  -  ^'  _■ 
of  65,000  loads  were  said  to  be  contributed  by  the  woody 
region  we  had  been  travelling  over,  and  which  is  known  as 
the  Katan  Dawassi — ancient  Daximonitis.*  We  made  a 
lateral  excursion  hence,  by  a  picturesque  and  wooded  ravine, 
to  the  village  of  Ksurdavin,  where,  according  to  report,  a  gold- 
mine had  been  recently  discovered.  It  turned  out,  however, 
to  be  merely  mica,  or  talc,  which  assumed  an  unusual  appear- 
ance at  this  place. 

Thursday^  May  4. — Our  way  lay  along  the  same  beautiful 
liilly  and  wooded  country,  with  open,  cultivated,  and  well- 
watered  plains  and  valleys,  21  miles  to  Turkhal,  a  small  place  Turkhal. 
of  about  500  or  600  houses,  remarkable  for  its  ruinous  castle, 
situated  on  the  top  of  an  isolated  hill  of  limestone.  The 
gateways  of  this  castle  consist  of  large  blocks  of  stone,  the 
linteb),  side-posts,  and  threshold  being  formed  each  of  a  single 
block.  The  ruins  are,  however,  apparently  of  a  late  period. 
A  flight  of  stairs  leads  here,  as  at  Tokat  and  Amasiyah,  to  a 
subterranean  well  or  reservoir.  Hamilton,  who  pictured  this 
place  in  his  work,  identifies  it  with  Gazioura,  an  ancient 
royal  residence,  and  described  by  Strabo  as  being  near  the 
spot  where  the  Iris,  after  flowing  through  the  rich  plain  of 
Daximonitis,  turns  towards  the  north.  Dion  Cassius  also 
notices  the  same  place  as  the  stronghold  where  Mithridates 
took  up  his  position  against  the  Boman  Triarius.f 

Following  the  valley  of  the  Yashil  Irmak,  or  *  Green  River,* 
for  about  three  miles,  we  turned  up  a  narrow  valfey  for  about 
seven  miles  farther,  and  then  crossed  a  ridge  by  a  road  in 
part  cut  through  the  rock  (Uzun  Bughaz),  and  where  was  a 
guardhouse  with  five  soldiers,  and  implements  of  torture 
hanging  over  the  door,  as  if  the  soldiery  united  the  functions 
of  policemen  and  magistrates.  We  descended  hence  into  a  Village  of 
cultivated  valley  with  several  villages,  in  one  of  which  (called  ^*°i^ 
Asin  Burghu)  we  put  up  for  the  night,  having  ridden  alto- 
gether thirteen  hours. 

The  next  day  (Friday,  May  5),  it  took  us  two  hours  to 

•  Strabo,  xii.  547;  Dion  Cassius,  xxxv.  12. 

t  Ibid.    It  is  called  Kashan  Kalahsi  Id  the  '  Jihan  Numa.' 


MR.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY   TO   CONSTANTINOPLE  535 

the  other  to  the  neck ;  there  are  bridges  over  the  river — one     APPX. 
from  the  city  to  the  suburb,  and  another  from  the  submb  to  .  . 

the  neighbouring  country,  for  at  the  point  where  this  bridge 
is  the  mountain  which  lies  above  the  rock  terminates.' 

Hamilton  explored  the  acropolis  and  tombs,  and  he  ex-  Hamilton's 
plains  *  the  five  or  six  stadia  to  mean  the  length  of  the  road  J^^e^^^^^- 
by  which  alone  the  summit  can  be  reached,  and  which  is  cir- 
cuitous. The  same  traveller,  however,  erroneously  follows 
Cramer  f  in  giving  the  version,  *  the  summits  have  on  each 
side  a  very  narrow  neck  of  land,'  for  the  words  *  on  each  side ' 
refer  to  the  ascent  to  the  'neck,'  as  Groskurd  and  Long 
correctly  understand  it.  Hamilton  found  two  Hellenic  towers, 
of  beautiful  construction,  on  the  heights,  which  he  considered 
to  be  the  Kopv<f>ai  of  Strabo.  But  the  greater  part  of  the 
walls  now  standing  are  Byzantine  or  Turkish.  Indeed,  we 
learn  from  Procopius  f  that  Justinian  repaired  them. 

Hamilton  also  explored  a  passage  cut  in  the  rock,  down 
which  he  descended,  about  300  feet,  to  a  small  pool  of  clear 
cold  water.  The  other  gallery,  he  says,  was  not  excavated  in 
the  rock,  but  was  built  of  masonry  above-ground,  yet  equally 
well  concealed.  The  tombs  are  five  in  number,  three  to  the 
west,  and  two  to  the  east.  Considerable  remains  of  the  old 
Greek  wells,  which  Strabo  describes  as  forming  the  peribolus 
or  enclosure  of  the  royal  tombs,  still  exist,  as  also  a  square 
tower,  built  in  the  best  Hellenic  style.  Hamilton  also  found 
the  front  wall  of  an  old  morgue  to  be  built  of  ancient  cornices, 
friezes,  and  architraves,  as  also  fragments  of  Greek  inscrip- 
tions, deep  cut  in  large  letters.§ 

The  population  of  Amasiyah  is  said  to  consist  of  from  3,000  Population 
to  4,000  Turkish  houses,  750  Armenian,  and  100  to  150  gfy^*" 
Greek.     Silk  is  the  staple  production,  and  50,000  '  okas  '  are 
said  to  be  annually  exported,  the  price  being  about  lOs.  6d. 
a  pound.     Cloth  and  leather  are  also  manufactured,  but  the 
bazaars  are  small  and  poorly  supplied. 

It  is  but  a  short  ride  of  six  hours — although  reckoned  eight  Jonrney  to 

Tlf  X      -  r  L  ill  L 

by  postmasters,  and  to  be  paid  for  as  such — from  Amasiyah  to  '™*"*^''- 

♦  •  Residence  in  Asia  Minor/  &c.,  i.  366. 
t  Ibid.  i.  302.  \  '  De  2M\i:  iii.  7. 

§  The  medisBval  history  of  Amasiyah  is  given  in  the  '  Kesearches  in  Assyria, 
&c.  vol.  ii.  p.  26  ct  8cq. 


ME.  AINSWORTH'S   JOURNEY   TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  537 

as  the  Takiya  of  Hajji  Baba,  or  the  ^Tomb  of  the  Pilgrim     APPX. 
Father.'  .    ^-    . 


It  ifl  a  pleasant  ride — charged  as  eight  post-hours,  but  not  Routefrom 
above  sixteen  miles — from  Osmanjik  to  Haji-Hamsah,  along  ^smanjik. 
the  left  bank  of  the  Halys,  with  wooded  and  picturesque  clififs 
on  the  one  side,  and  verdure  or  cultivation,  extending  down 
to  the  river,  on  the  other.  At  Haji-Hamsah  the  road  leaves 
the  river  to  pass  through  the  hills  by  a  narrow  *  derbend,'  or 
pass,  which  presents  the  remarkable  peculiarity  of  enabling 
the  traveller  to  reach  the  low  country  beyond  without  any 
change  of  level.  As  the  same  hills  extend,  under  varioifs 
names,  with  but  few  breaks,  or  solution  of  continuity,  to  the 
south  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  any  railway  projected  to  be 
carried  across  Asia  Minor  should  keep  to  the  high-road  to 
this  point,  whence,  by  following  the  wide  and  open  valley  of 
the  Halys,  it  could  gain  the  central  uplands  by  a  graduated 
and  easy  ascent. 

Haji-Hamsah  is  a  curious  place,  with  about  500  cottages,  ^*J^" 
many  cofifee-houses,  a  khan,  a  *jami'  with  minareh,  post- 
house,  a  diminutive  bazaar,  guardhouse,  and  Agha's  residence. 
Beyond  the  town  a  modern  fort  nearly  blocks  up  the  pass. 
The  road  issues  forth  beyond  the  pass  into  the  valley  of  the 
Divrik  Chai,  fertile  and  productive  in  rice,  cereals,  and  fruit, 
and  with  many  villages ;  it  preserves  the  same  characters^ 
only  deeply  intersected  at  places  by  mountain  torrents,  as 
far  as  the  town  of  Tusiyah,  a  place  of  some  importance. 
Patches  of  snow  still  lay  on  the  mountains,  both  to  the  north 
and  south.  Those  to  the  north  were  designated  as  Al-Kuz 
(Olgassys),  and  to  the  south  Kush-Tagh,  or  ^  Bird  Mountains.' 
Near  the  town  is  a  high  artificial  mound,  possibly  the  site 
of  the  castle  in  which  Diogenes  Somanus  took  refuge  when 
liberated  by  Sultan  Hasan,  during  the  prevalence  of  the 
faction  of  Michael.  At  that  time  Tusiyah  was  called  Docia. 
It  first  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Seljukiyan  Turks  in  the 
time  of  Manuel  Comnenus,  when  it  was  placed  under  the 
rule  of  the  Isfindaburg  princes  of  Kastamuni,  and  it  passed 
under  the  sway  of  the  Osmanlis  in  the  time  of  Mohammed  I. 

We  rode  thirty  miles  the  ensuing  day  (Thursday,  May  11), 
up  the  same  beautiful  woodland  vale,  to  the  small  town  of  Kut^'h- 
Kutch-Hissar,  or  ^  Sam's  Castle,'  but  siurounded  by  populous     ^^^^' 


MB.  AINSWORTH'S  JOURNEY  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  539 

Turcoman  supremacy  in  these  parts.     We  had  to  change     APPX. 
horses  here,  which  entailed  a  loss  of  two  liours,  and  then  ^    ^    - 
proceeded  by  Bayardir — now  a  mere  village,  but  identified  by 
Leake  with  the  ancient  Potamia — up  another  ascent,  and  Andont 
thence  by  a  small  lake,  celebrated  for  its  leeches,  to  the  ^^'^°"*- 
town  of  Karadah,  or  Keredeh  (ancient  Carno).     Karadah  is  a 
busy  little  town,  with  a  fair  bazaar,  and  is  said  to  have  a 
population  of  about  15,000  souls,  of  whom  3,000  are  Chris- 
tians.    Wishing  to  get  on  more  expeditiously  to  Constanti- 
nople, Mr.  Bassam  left  the  more  valuable  and  heavy  portion 
of  our  luggage  with  a  Christian  merchant  at  this  place,  who 
faithfully  promised  to  forward  it  after  us;  but  he  signally  Losgof 
failed  in  his  promise,  and  the  luggage  has  never  since  been  ^^^gK^*'- 
recovered. 

Although  detained  next  morning  by  heavy  rain,  we  started 
at  noon,  and  got  over  twelve  post-hours  to  BolL  The  country 
was  in  part  clad  with  wood,  in  part  under  cultivation,  but 
there  were  several  slight  ascents  and  descents,  and  some 
small  lakes.  A  guardhouse  (which  was  also  a  coffee-house) 
by  the  wayside,  was  built  in  part  of  slabs  of  old  marble,  and 
there  were  other  fragments  of  ruins  lying  about.  Boli  is  a  Town  of 
goodly  town,  with  a  population  of  some  10,000  souls,  of  * 
whom  some  3,000  are  Greeks.  It  is  the  seat  of  a  pacha, 
and  the  see  of  a  Greek  bishop ;  and  the  ruins  of  two  castles 
or  mounds  to  the  eastward,  and  numerous  fragments  of  anti- 
quity, mark  the  site  of  Hadrianopolis  of  old. 

We  ascended  (Tuesday,  May  16)  from  the  magnificent 
wooded  plain  of  Boli,  up  forest-clad  hills,  by  a  road  in  part 
paved,  and  descended  thence  to  a  smaller  plain  with  more 
greensward  and  many  trees,  at  or  about  the  centre  of  which 
was  the  village  and  posthouse  of  Tuz-cha.  The  plain,  though  Plain  of 
not  to  be  compared  with  that  of  Boli,  was  surrounded  by  ^'^^^^-cha. 
wooded  hills,  had  its  own  little  lake  and  rivulet,  and  pre- 
sented altogether  a  site  of  exceeding  beauty.  Numerous 
fragments  of  antiquity  were  scattered  about,  to  mark  the  site 
of  ancient  Duseprum,  twelve  post-hours  from  Hadrianopolis. 
The  capital  of  a  column,  lying  near  a  well,  was  ornamented 
ivith  doves  encircled  by  wreaths. 

It  was  seven  post-hours  from  hence  to  Khandall,  but  twelve 
by  order  of  the  Padishah,  as  the  Manzil  Khan  men  had  the 


MB.  AINSWOBTH'S  JOUBNEY  TO   CONSTANTINOPLE.  •        541 

extend  farther  east  I    The  introduction  of  railroads  can  alone     APPX. 
effect  this  desirable  change.     In  Europe  railroads  have  been   ^    ^^'    . 


the  last  result  of  civilisation,  and  iron  roads  have  been  intro-  Beflections. 
duced  across  countries  where  a  great  population  holds  out 
promises  of  numerous  travellers  and  of  a  considerable  trans- 
port of  merchandise.  But  India  and  the  United  States  have 
set  the  example  of  a  new  order  of  ideas.  In  those  countries 
the  railway  is  made  a  means  of  communication  between  dis- 
tant cities  and  provinces,  or  to  establish  relationship  between 
countries.  It  is  made  to  precede  civilisation,  instead  of  fol- 
lowing it  in  the  van,  and  experience  has  shown  that  settle- 
ment and  cultivation,  villages  and  towns,  follow  in  its  wake. 
This  is  the  idea  which  remains  to  be  applied  alike  to  British 
North  America  and  to  the  East.  Bailways  from  Belgrade  to 
Constantinople,  and  from  Constantinople  to  Teheran  and 
Bagdad,  would  revolutionise  a  considerable  portion  of  West- 
ern Asia,  and  revive  in  those  countries  the  civilisation  of 
olden  times. 

It  only  remains  to  say  that  we  rode  from  Sabanjah  on 
Friday,  May  19,  to  Nicomedia,  and  on  Saturday,  May  20,  Conclusion. 
to  Scutari — the  scene,  since  that   epoch,  of  many  stirring 
events. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS  OF   OFFICERS.  543 

tions  in  that  service  he  was  prompted  to  the  brevet  rank  APPX. 
of  lieutenant-colonel,  in  March  1839.  He  was  placed  on  .  ^•_- 
half-pay  in  1843;  and  in  the  same  year  was  appointed 
Commissioner,  to  mark  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  the  British  provinces  in  North  America,  a  work 
which  he  completed  in  three  years.  Promoted  to  the  rank 
of  colonel  in  1854,*  he  went  out  to  the  East  in  that  year  on 
the  staff  of  Lord  Raglan,  and  served  as  Adjutant-General 
from  the  first  landing  in  the  Crimea,  sharing  the  glories  and 
dangers  of  Alma,  Balaklava,  and  Inkerman.  He  had  enjoyed 
tolerably  good  health  during  the  campaign,  but  died  of 
cholera  after  a  brief  illness.  The  late  Major-Greneral  Est- 
court  was  named  for  K.C.B.  in  the  *  London  Gazette '  of  July 
10,  1855,  but  his  death  had  occurred  before  his  nomination. 
He  sat  during  the  last  Parliament  for  Devizes,  having  been 
elected  for  that  borough  in  February  1848,  but  retired  at 
the  dissolution  in  1852.  He  married,  in  1837,  Caroline, 
youngest  daughter  of  the  late  Eight  Hon.  Reginald  Pole 
Carew,  of  East  Anthony,  Cornwall,  by  his  second  wife,  the 
Hon.  Caroline  Anne,  daughter  of  the  first  Lord  Lyttelton. 
His  widow  is  now  Lady  Bucknall-Estcourb,  of  Eaton  Place, 
London,  she  having  been  raised,  in  1856,  to  the  same  rank 
as  if  her  husband  had  survived  to  be  created  K.C.B.,  to  which 
he  was  gazetted  before  his  death  was  known  in  England. 


THE  LATE  LIEUTENANT  MURPHY,  RE. 

Lieutenant  Hastings  F.  Murphy  obtained  his  first  com- 
mission in  the  Royal  Engineers  in  1816.  He  was  employed 
at  Dover  and  other  stations  till  1823,  when  he  was  selected 
by  Colonel  Colby  for  employment  on  the  Ordnance  Survey. 
His  first  duty  was  the  reduction  of  the  Observations  of  the 
Scotch  Triangulation,  in  which  he  displayed  considerable 
mathematical  knowledge,  as  well  as  great  assiduity.  It  may 
be  worthy  of  notice,  that  in  this  he  had  for  a  time  the  assist- 

*  The  other  commissions  of  the  late  Major-General  Estcourt  are  dated  as 
follow  :— Brigadior-Genoral,  March  3,  185  i;  Deputy  AdjuUint-General,  March 
28,  18r>4 ;  Adjutant-General  to  Forces  in  Turkey,  August  11,  1854  ;  and  Major- 
Goner.d,  Decombt-r  12,  1854. 


THE  REV.  W.  J.  BUCKNALL-ESTCOUET. 

The  Rev.  William  John  Bucknall-Estcourt,  a  brother  of  the 
late  Major-General  Est  court,  also  accompanied  the  Expedition 
during  its  earlier  stages.  He  was  educated  at  Balliol  College, 
Oxford,  where  he  graduated  B.A.  in  1834,  and  M.A.  in  1838 ; 
he  was  ordained  deacon  in  1839,  and  priest  in  1841.  In 
1839,  inanediately  after  his  ordination,  he  was  appointed 
Curate  of  Bishop's  Cannings,  Wilts,  and  was  transferred  to 
the  curacy  of  Penselwood,  Somerset,  in  1836.  He  was 
Vicar  of  Sedgeford,  Norfolk,  from  1849  to  1856,  when  he 
was  presented  by  his  brother,  the  Eight  Hon.  T.  B.  Sotheron- 
Estcourt,  to  the  Rectory  of  Long  Newnton,  Tetbury,  Wilts, 
of  which  living  (value  4001.)  he  is  still  in  possession.  For 
the  above  facts  we  are  indebted  to  '  Crockford's  Clerical 
Directory.' 


THE  LATE  LIEUTENANT  ROBERT  COCKBURN,  R.A. 

This  officer,  who  belonged  to  the  Royal  Artillery,  was  the 
son  of  the  late  Robert  Cockburn,  Esq.,  of  Leith  and  Edin- 
burgh ;   he  sought,   through  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and 

N  N 


BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS   OP  OFFICERS.  545 

WTiilst  the  Expedition  was  delayed  at  the  mouth  of  the     APPX. 
Orontes,  Lieutenant   Murphy,   assisted  by   Mr.   Fitzjames,  ^    ^f^'    . 
Lieutenant    Cockburn,   and   Mr.    Thomson,    surveyed    and 
mapped  the  coast  from  Lattakia  to  the   extremity  of  the 
Bay   of  Scanderoou,  in  order  to  connect  it  with  Admiral 
Beaufort's  previous  survey,  &c. 

He  also,  with  the  assistance  of  Messrs.  Cockburn  and 
Thomson,  carried  a  line  of  levels  from  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  to  the  Upper  Euphrates  at  Bir,  a  distance  of  rather  more 
than  140  miles. 

He  likewise  determined,  astronomically,  the  principal  points 
between  the  Mediterranean  and  Basrah,  where,  whilst  com- 
pleting his  arduous  and  important  services,  he  fell  a  victim 
to  fever ;  and  thus  a  most  valuable  and  talented  officer's  ser- 
vices were  lost  to  the  country,  to  the  deep  regret  of  all  who 
knew  his  worth. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS  OP  OFFICERS.  547 


CAPTAIN  HENRY  BLOSSE  LYNCH,  C.B.,  KX.S.  APPX. 

xn. 


The  *  Foreign  OflBce  List '  gives  the  following  summary  of 
the  services  of  Captain  Lynch,  C.B.,  who  served  in  an  im- 
portant capacity  in  the  Euphrates  Expedition : — He  entered 
the  Indian  Navy  in  1823.  Was  employed  in  the  survey  of 
the  Arabian  shores  of  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  was  Arabic, 
Persian,  and  Hindostanee  interpreter  to  the  Commodore 
commanding  in  the  Persian  Gulf;  was  employed  in  conduct- 
ing communications  with  the  Arab  tribes,  and  travelling  in 
Arabia.  In  1830,  was  in  command  of  the  '  Enterprise '  steam- 
vessel,  in  India.  In  1832,  examined  the  southern  provinces 
of  Persia,  and  the  communications  from  the  Gulf  into 
Southern  Persia,  under  instructions  received  through  Sir 
John  McDonald,  late  Envoy  Extraordinary  in  Persia,  from 
the  Supreme  Government  of  India.  In  1834,  was  second 
in  command  under  Colonel  (now  General)  Che«ney  in  the 
Euphrates  Expedition.  From  1837  to  1842,  was  in  command 
of  the  *  Euphrates'  and  *  Tigris,'  and  in  charge  of  the  postal 
service  across  Syria,  from  Bagdad  to  Damascus.  In  1842, 
was  in  command  of  the  Indian  naval  squadron  off  the  coast 
of  Scinde,  in  communication  with  the  late  General  Sir 
CLarles  Napier,  during  the  war.  From  1844  to  1851,  was 
employed  in  civil  duties  at  Bombay,  as  Assistant  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Indian  Navy,  captain  of  the  *  Hastings'  flag- 
ship, oflBciating  Superintendent  of  the  Indian  Navy,  and 
member  of  the  Oriental  Examination  Committee.  Jn  1851, 
was  in  command  of  the  squadron  of  steam-frigates  in  the 
River  Irrawaddy,  and  took  part  in  the  capture  of  Rangoon, 
the  relief  of  Martaban,  and  the  whole  of  the  operations  of 
the  war.  Was  created  a  C.B.  December  3,  1853,  for  services 
in  Burmah.  In  1857,  was  employed  at  Paris,  in  conducting 
negotiations  with  the  Persian  Ambassador,  which  resulted  in 
the  Treaty  of  Paris,  March  4,  1857,  and  accompanied  the 
Persian  Ambassador  to  England  in  1857-58. 

From  Walford's  *  County  Families '  we  learn  that  Captain 
Lynch  is  the  eldest  surviving  son  of  the  late  H.  B.  Lynch, 
Esq.,  of  Partry  House,  co.  Mayo  (a  major  in  the  army), 
by   Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Robert  Finnis,  Esq.,  of   Hythe, 

N  N  2 


i 


BIOGRAPHICAL   RECORDS   OP  OFFICERS.  549 

in   February   1834,  as  mate,  to   the  *  Salamander '  steam-     APPX 
vessel,  employed  on  Channel  service;  and  in  October  1834  '_. 

joined  the  Expedition  under  Colonel  Chesney,  then  preparing 
for  its  explorative  mission  to  the  celebrated  River  Euphrates. 
Throughout  the  various  details  of  that  arduous  undertaking, 
which  was  only  brought  to  an  issue  in  the  spring  of  1837, 
Mr.  Charlewood  repeatedly  acquired  official  praise,  but  more 
especially  for  his  active  co-operation  in  the  laborious  task  of 
originally  transporting  the  steamers  'Euphrates'  and  *  Tigris' 
(to  the  former  of  which  he  was  attached  with  the  rank  of 
acting  lieutenant)  from  the  vicinity  of  Antioch  overland  to 
the  town  of  BIr,  a  tract  of  about  140  miles,  almost  impas- 
sable for  the  want  of  roads — as  well  as  for  his  subsequent 
exertions  in  saving  the  *  Euphrates '  when  her  consort  the 
'  Ti-^ris '  foundered  in  a  typhoon.  On  his  return  to  England, 
he  joined,  in  July  1837,  the  *  Excellent'  (gunnery  ship)  at 
Portsmouth,  of  which  he  was  appointed  lieutenant  on  January 
26,  1838.  Eemoving,  on  April  25,  1839,  to  the  'Benbow' 
(72  gims).  Captain  Houston  Stewart,  Lieutenant  Charlewood 
sailed  for  the  Mediterranean ;  and  while  on  that  station  took 
part  in  the  various  operations  of  the  Syrian  campaign  under 
the  late  Admiral  Sir  Charles  Napier,  including  the  attack  on 
Tortosa  and  bombardment  of  St.  Jean  d'Acre.  On  the  former 
occasion  (September  25,  1840),  he  landed  at  the  head  of  a 
pioneer  party,  entered  a  breach  in  the  wall  of  the  castle,  and 
brought  off  several  stores  of  corn  and  rice.  For  his  very 
gallant  conduct  in  this  affiiir  he  obtained  a  commander's 
commission,  dated  November  5,  1840,  but  since  that  time  has 
been  on  half-pay.  He  was  promoted  to  captain  on  the  Retired 
List  of  the  Navy  on  January  1,  1855.  Captain  Charlewood 
married,  on  March  18,  1841,  Sarah  Carlton,  second  daughter 
of  the  late  William  Wyllie,  Esq.,  of  Kingston,  Hants. 


THE  LATE  CVPTAIN  JAMES  IJITZJAMES,  R.N. 

He  entered  the  navy  on  August  25,  1825,  as  first-class 
volunteer  on  board  the  '  Pyramus '  (42  guns),  in  which  ship, 
after  accompanying  Mr.  Morier,  the  British  Commissioner, 
to  Mexico,  and  serving  for  some  time  on  the  Home  station. 


t 


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0 


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BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS  OF  OFFICERS.  551 

On  May  27,  1844,  he  joined  the  '  Cornwallis,'  the  flagship  of     APPX. 
Sir  William  Parker  in  China,  whose  official  praise,  as  well  as   ^- — r-^ 
that  of  Sir  Hugh  (now  Lord )  Goiigh,  he  repeatedly  acquired  for 
his  meritorious  conduct  diu-ing  the  hostilities  of  1842,  his  name 
occurring  in  not  less  than  five  gazettes.   In  the  course  of  that 
year  he  directed,  with  excellent  precision,  the  fire  of  the  rocket^ 
brigade  in  the  attack  on  the  heights  of  Segoun  and  Tzekee, 
March  15  and  16  ;  and  had  also  charge  of  the  rocket-party 
at  the  taking  of  Chapoo,  May  18.     He  served  on  shore  at 
the  battle  of  Woosung,  June  16 ;  again  commanded  the  rocket- 
brigade  at  the  storm  and  capture  of  Chinkiang-Foo,  July  21, 
when  he  was  severely  wounded  ;  was  present  at  the  signing 
of  the  Treaty  of  Nankin,  and  participated  in  all  the  opera- 
ticms  on  the  Yang-tse-Kiang.     On  December  23,  1842,  he 
was  rewarded  by  promotion  to  the  rank  of  commander,  and 
on  the  30th  of  the  same  month  was  appointed  to  the  *  Clio,'  a 
sloop  of  16  guns.     After  visiting  Basrah  and  Kurnah,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates  rivers,  he  was  sent  to 
quell  disturbances  among  the  crews  of  merchantmen  loading 
guano  at  Ichaboe,  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  was  paid  oflF  on 
his  arrival  in   England  in  October  1844.      Since  March  4, 
1845,  Fitzjames  (whose  commission  as   captain  bears  date 
December  31  of   that  year)  has  been   in  command  of  the 
'Erebus'  discovery  ship,  Captain  Sir  John  Franklin,  which 
was  employed  in  the  attempt  to  explore  the  North- West 
passage  through  Lancaster  Sound  and  Behring's  Straits,  and 
had  the  conduct  of  the   magnetic  operations  connected  with 
that  unfortunate   expedition. — From  0' Byrne' a  Naval  Bio- 
graphy.  

C  APTAIN  HENRY  EDEN,  R.N. 

Captain  Henry  Eden,  R.N.,  entered  the  navy,  as  a  first-claps 
volunteer  on  board  the '  Hyperion'  (42  guns),  January  f>,  1825. 
He  subsequently  served  on  bo  ard  the  '  Menai,'  the  '  Met'Senger 
steamer,  and  '  Prince  Kegent,'  in  the  Mediterranean  ;  then  as 
mate  on  board  the  '  Hermes '  and  *  Flamer'  steamers.  In  Janu- 
ary  1834,  he  joined  the  gunnery-ship  '  Excellent,'  and  in 
December  of  the  same  year  he  was  appointed  to  serve  on  the 
Expedition  going  to  the  Kiver  Euphrates  ;  and,  after  af-sisting 
in  the  transport  and  floating  of  the  two  steamers  prepared  for 


BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS  OP  OFFICERS.  553 


APPX. 
Mb.  a.  a.  STAUNTON.  XII. 


Mr.  Andrew  Atlmer  Staunton  joined  the  Expedition  with 
firet-rate  qualifications  as  a  draftsman,  and  as  possessing  much 
experience  in  Natural  History,  especially  in  the  preparation  of 
specimens,  in  which  he  was  indefatigable  and  most  successful. 
Many  of  his  numerous  and  valuable  drawings  went  down  in 
the  *  Tigris,'  from  which  vessel  he  and  his  brother  most  happily 
escaped.  He  had  volunteered  his  services,  and  at  the  close 
of  the  Expedition  he  was  appointed  assistant-surgeon  in  the 
Ordnance  Medical  Department,  his  commission  bearing  date 
September  20,  1836.     He  died  in  Canada  a  few  years  ago. 


Mb.  l^aLLIAM  AINSWORTH,  SURGEON  AND  GEOLOGIST  OF  THE 

EUPHRATES  EXPEDITION. 

In  order  to  lessen  the  number  of  officers  attached  to  the 
Euphrates  Expedition,  and  diminish  the  expenditure,  such  me- 
dical officers  were  sought  for  as  would  be  qualified  to  take  one 
of  the  scientific  branches,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary  medical 
duties.  Accordingly,  Mr.  William  Ainsworth — son  of  Captain 
John  Ainsworth,  of  the  15th  Foot,  the  descendant  of  an  old 
family — was  to  undertake  the  geological  department,  for  which 
his  antecedents  had  fully  prepared  him ;  for  on  passing  his 
examination  as  a  licentiate  of  the  Royal  College  of  Surgeons  of 
Edinburgh,  in  1827,  he  received  instruction  of  a  more  general 
and  practical  description  in  Paris,  where  he  became  an  interne 
of  the  School  of  Mines.  He  subsequently  had  practical 
experience  in  geology  in  the  Auvergne  and  Pyrenees,  &c. 
On  returning  to  Scotland,  in  1829,  he  edited  for  two  years 
the  '  Edinburgh  Journal  of  Natural  and  Geograpliical 
Science,'  and  gave  lectures  on  geology.  When  the  cholera 
made  its  appearance  at  Sunderland  in  1832,  he  was  one  of 
the  first  to  grapple  with  and  study  this  new  epidemic,  and 
the  result  of  his  observations  was  given  to  the  world  in  a 
work  on  Cholera,*  in  consequence  of  which  he  was  appointed 
surgeon  to,  and  visited  successively,  the  hospitals  at  St. 
George's,  Hanover  Square  (London),  and  Westport,  Ballin- 

*  'ObsenratioDB  on  the  Cholera  in  Sunderland  in  1832/ 


BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS   OP  OFFICERS.  555 

APPX. 
Mb.  C.  a.  RASSAM.  .     ^^^    ^ 

Mr.  Christian  Anthony  Rassam  is  a  native  of  Mosul,  to 
which  city  his  great-grandfather  had  migrated  from  the  coast 
of  Malabar.  His  father  was  a  Chaldean  priest,  or  clergyman 
of  the  Nestorian  Church.  Mr.  C.  A.  Rassam  was  his  eldest 
son.  When  quite  a  lad  he  accompanied  a  caravan  going 
from  Mosul  to  trade  in  the  heart  of  Arabia,  and  at  a  later 
period  was  employed  in  translating  Arabic  MSS.  at  the  college 
at  Malta.  After  several  years  spent  in  this  literary  occupa- 
tion, he  joined  the  Euphrates  Expedition  as  Arabic  inter- 
preter, and  subsequently  undertook  a  journey  into  Kurdistan 
on  behalf  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  and  of  the 
Society  for  Promoting  Christian  Knowledge,  in  company 
with  Mr.  Ainsworth.  His  zeal,  superior  intelligence,  and 
usefulness  during  both  these  expeditions  procured  for  him 
the  appointment  of  British  Vice-Consul  at  Mosiil,  which  he 
has  held  since  1837. 


Mb,  WILLIAM  QUIN. 


Mr.  Quin  was  formerly  a  sergeant  in  the  Royal  Artillery, 
and  accompanied  Colonel  Chesney,  R.A.,  in  the  Euphrates 
Expedition,  after  which  he  received  an  appointment  in  the 
imperial  customs  in  the  West  Indies  in  1840;  appointed 
.sub-treasurer,  colonial  customs,  St.  Kitts,  August  1850; 
captain.  Fort  Thomas,  December  1850;  emigration  officer, 
November  1851 ;  granted  by  unanimous  resolution  of  both 
Houses  of  Legislature,  in  consideration  of  onerous  duties  as 
sub-treasurer  and  quarantine  officer — 100/.,  March  1854; 
removed  to  Antigua,  as  treasury  accountant  (salary  300/.), 
August  1857  ;  commissioned  as  Major  commanding  Artillery 
and  Infantry,  and  Brigade-Major  of  Her  Majesty's  Volunteer 
Militia  Forces  in  Antigua,  May  1858  ;  by  the  imanimous 
resolution  of  both  Houses  of  Legislature,  presented  the  sum 
of  lOOZ.,  in  acknowledgment  of  services  rendered  the  Colony 
in  the  organization  of  the  Militia  Volunteer  Forces,  August 
1859;  appointed  Captain-Superintendent  of  Police  in  Hong- 
kong (salary  800^),  January  1862,  and  retired  on  a  pension 
in  1868. — Colonial  Office  List. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  RECORDS   OF   OFFICERS.  557 

his  savasre  rancour  agfainst  the  Engflish  captives,  and  have     APPX. 

or'  YTT 

prevented  him,  in  the  supreme  moment  of  his  destiny,  from 
imbruing  his  hands  in  English  blood.  Perhaps  the  English 
nation  owes  it  to  Bell  that  the  heights  of  Magdala,  now  sur- 
rounded with  the  halo  of  a  successful  military  exploit,  are  not 
associated  with  the  gory  memories  of  the  hideous  Well  of 
Cawnpore ! 

The  Times  of  September  8,  1868,  in  a  review  of  Dr. 
Blanc's  *  Narrative  of  Captivity  in  Abyssinia,'  makes  the 
following  remarks  on  the  strange  relationship  between  Bell 
and  Theodore: — 

*  After  reading  this  description  (of  Theodore),  one  under- 
stands how,  in  better  days,  he  made  such  an  impression  upon 
a  politician  of  Plowden's  penetration,  or  the  marvellous  per- 
sonal ascendancy  which  he  acquired  over  the  man  known  as 
"  Theodore's  Englishman  " — Bell.     There  are  in  all  history 
few  instances  of  a  devotion  so  loyal,  so  touching  in  its  sim- 
plicity and  honest  bravery,  as  that  with  which  this  single- 
hearted,  outspoken  Englishman  worshipped  Theodore.     He 
was  scarcely  ever  absent  from  his  side,  even  at  night  lying 
down  like  a  watchdog  to  protect  his  beloved  master  from 
harm,  and  at  last  sacrificing  life  itself  to  save  him.     Yet,  in 
this  more  than  servile  devotion  there  was  no  real  servilitv. 
Strange  to  say,  Bell,  Englishman-like,  dared — what  so  few 
favourites  whose  very  existence  depended  on  a  master's  breath 
have  ever  dared  to  do — frankly  to  tell  Theodore  his  faults, 
and,  stranger  still,  Theodore  listened   and  as  frankly  con- 
fessed them.     When  we  reflect  that  this  was  the  man  whom 
it  was  afterwards  as  unsafe  even  to  approach  as  to  come  near 
a  wounded  tiger,  we  cannot  help  thinking  that  his  character 
presents  about  as  curious  and   interesting  a   psychological 
study  as  it  would  be  easy  in  all  history  to  find.     Plowden, 
again — a  man  of  a  widely  different  nature  from  Bell's,  and 
singularly  able — was  in  his  own  way  scarcely  less  impressed, 
although  he  failed  to  make  a  corresponding  impression  on 
Theodore.      He   attributes    to   the    half-clad,    half-civilized 
African  views  on  question?  of  imperial  policy  farsighted  and 
profound  enough  to  have  been  worthy  any  European  states- 
man; and  fairly  to  appreciate  Theodore's  ascendancy  over 
these  two  men,  our  readers  must  bear  in  mind  that  he  had, 


INDEX. 


AAT 

AATYL,  ruins  of,  26 
Abbas  Mirza,  camp  of,  111 
—  liarem  of,  344 
Abdullah,  Arab  guide,  61 
Ab-i-Diz  river,  323 
Ab-i-Zal,  99 

Abu  Serai,  once  Kerkisivah,  260 
Accounts  of  the  Expedition,  348,  374 
Ach-chi  river,  117 
Achmadea  camp,  113 
Adanah,  212 

Agha  Denghis,  or  White  Lake,  193 
Agrish  Tagh,  132 
Ahwaz,  town  and  bund  of,  96,  323 
Ainsworth,  Mr.,  212 

—  left  behind,  277 

—  aflRiir  with  the  Arabs,  219 

—  Appendix  XI.,  492 

—  biographical  notice  of,  663 
Aintab,  212 

Akar  Kuf,  86 

Akar  Nimriid,  83 

Akfou  tents,  33 

Akoura  village,  19 

Akm  Jebel,  or  Mount  Cassius,  168 

Albert  Nyanza,  7 

Aleppo,  411 

Alexander  the  Great's  marches,  302, 

600-7 
Alexandria,  346 
Ali-Shehr  village,  136 
Aniasiyah,  636 
Amenabacl,  112 
Amman,  ruinu  of,  31 
Amra,  Kut-el,  307,  311 
Amram  forest,  246 

—  a  quarter  of  Babylon,  88 
Aniza  /Vrabs,  75,  436 

—  at  Boles,  237 

—  treaty  with  the,  240 
Anna,  description  of,  63-8 

—  the  steamers  at,  261-70 
Anthemusia,  site  of,  138 
Antioch,  189,  386-9 


BAS 

Antioch,  bay  of,  140,  168 

—  lake  of,  196 
Appendix  I.  Chesney,  364 

—  II.  Expedition  accounts,  374 

—  III.  Estcourt,  881 

—  IV.       „  407 

—  V.  Lynch,  432 

—  VI.  Heifer,  439 

—  Vn.  Estcourt,  446 

—  Vin.  Cleaveland,  462 

—  IX.  Charlewood,  466 

—  X.  Fitgames,  481 

—  XI.  Ainsworth,  492 

XII.  Biographical    notices    of 
officers.  642 
Aqueducts  and  waterwheels,  61, 76,  76 
Arabian  and  Egyptian  overland  routes, 

143,  364 
Arabian  line  of  MarouisWellesley,  329 
Ararat,  Great  and  Little,  117 
Aras  river,  119 

Aiaxes  of  Xenophon,  the  Ehabur,  262 
Arbil,  mound  o(  606 
Arch  at  Babylon,  89 
Ascent  of  the  steamer  to  Bir,  222 

—  of  the  River  Euphrates,  314-20 
Karun,  292 

Tigris,  306 

Auckland,  Lord,Q^vemor-General,331 

BA'ALBEC,  20.  399 
Babylon,  88,  203,  282 
Bagdad,  arrival  at,  83 

—  departure  from,  86 

—  steamer  arrives  at,  309,  324 
Bah-a-Mishr,  32,  102,  302 
Baigrie,  Dr.,  opinion  of  plague,  101 
Band-i-Kir,  91,  98 

Barker,  Consul-General,  4 

—  Mr.  E.  B.  B.  364,  668 
Basaltic  mountains,  chain  of,  440 
Basrah,  94,  293,  321 

—  memorial  of  loss  of  *  Tigris  *  at,  276 
Bastinado,  414 


INDEX. 


561 


ECP 

Euphrates  question  examined  by  the 
King,  164 

—  Expedition,  20,000/.  votod,  149 

armament,  &c.,  161-164 

supported  by  the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, 166 

intended  route  of,  167 

its  objects,  4,  161 

lands  at  the  Orontes,  170 

transport  and  floating,  177-220 

officers  and  men,  220-222 

—  journey  to,  from  Damascus,  60-64 

—  descent  of,  66-94 

—  state  of  commerce  on,  366 

—  Lower,  ascent  and  descent  of,  314^ 
321 

Expedition,  summary  of,  362 


FAHAL  Arabs,  and  blood-feud,  232 
Fakkra  pyramids,  14 
Farren,  Mr.,  345 
Ears,  106 
Felujah,  arrival  at,  81,  281 

—  descent  of  Euphrates  ftom,  282 
Ferhand,  village,  424 

Fires,  natural,  near  Kirkiik,  497 
Fitzjames's  gidlantiy,  164 

—  our  admiral,  193 

—  broken  leg,  238 

—  carries  home  despatches,  820 

—  illness  and  recovery,  479 

—  Appendix  X.,  481 

—  biographical  notice  of,  649 
Fokkera  or  Forra,  ruins  of,  46 
Fontanier,    M.,    French    Consul    at 

Basrah,  293,  306 
Fountain  of  Zoila,  191 


GAIOURTAGH,   128 
Gardens,  hanging,  of  Babylon,  88, 

283 
Gashir  Elian,  498 
Gate  of  St.  Paul,  Antioch,  189 
Geddes,  Corporal,  death  of,  200 
Gemileh-Stomo,  370 
Germain,  Mr.  Vincent,  292 
Getgood,  the  Arab  pilot,  69,  86 
Ghnmesh  Elhanoh,  town  of,  123 
Gilet,  M.,  Consul  at  Tarsus,  212 
Gledstanes,  Hampden,  Esq.,  200 
Ck>bain  island,  71 
Godal  castle,  127 
Gordon,  Sir  Robert,  384 
Oourlou,  whirlpool  of,  227 
Grane,  route  by,  299 
Grant,  Sir  Robert,  and  Lady,  327 
Greek  inscription  at  Belet-Chan- Asra, 

443 


IK(} 

Gh^enhill,  Corporal,  237 

Guebro  temple,  112 

Giimbat  and  Gazellan,  villages  of,  129 

Gurun,  town  of,  133 

Guydoo,  village  of,  130 

Guzelburj,  station  at,  181,  189,  193 

—  village  of,  478,  484 


HAAGE,  Mr.,  489  . 
Hadisa,  town  of,  72,  278 
Hafar  canal,  109 
Hafiz,  tomb  of,  106 
Hafiz  Pacha,  621 
Harji  Ismael  Agha,  135 
H^i  the  Pole,  177 
Hakem,  Beni,  289 
Halebi  and  Zelebi,  247 
Halil,  dragoman,  50 
Halys,  the,  640 
Hammam  Wadi,  34 

—  Milk,  hills  of,  606 
Hammamli  river,  638 
Haran,  433 

Haroun-el-Raschid's  palace,  243 
Hasan  EaVah,  119 

Hassan  Agha,  231 
Hattib,  the  Arab  chief,  26 

—  treachery  of,  35 
Havilah  of  the  Jews,  49 
Hawiyji-el-Khawaslik,  71 
Hector  Mr.,  208.  229,  267,  652 
Heifer,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  join  the  Expedi-* 

tion,  205 

—  Appendix  VI.,  439 
Hesban,  39 

Heusn  Ni6ha,  ruins  of,  14 
Hierapolis,  442 

Hill  of  Difficulty,  194,  472-474,  483 
Hillah,  approach  to,  87 

—  departure  from,  90 

—  hostility  of  the  Arabs  at,  284 
Hit,  arrival  at,  76,  280 

—  boatbuilding  at,  77 

^  bitumen  springs  and  productions 

of,  280 
Henderson,Captain,  of  the  'Columbine,' 

166,  171 
Hennell,  Captain,  96,  102,  296,  297 
Hobhouse,    Sir    John,    letters  from, 

271,  272 
Hollow  way,  or  tunnel,  of  Seleucia, 

171,  383 


PRAHIM  PACHA,  interview  with, 
179,  404 

—  his  reception  at  Suedia,  184 

—  hostile  step  taken  by,  468 
Inglis,  Sir  Robert  H.,  143 


O  0 


INDEX. 


563 


MUR 

Mnrphy,  Lientenanti  R.  £.,  joins  the 
Expedition,  152 

—  survey  by,  182,  192 

—  illness  and  death,  301 

—  biographical  notice  of,  643 
Murud  Pacha,  landing-place  at,  181 
Mutsellim  of  Antioch,  176 

—  of  Bir,  209 

NAHR-EL-KASAB,  30 
Namik  Pacha,  158 
Nile,  ascent  to  Cairo  of^  5 

—  boats,  8 

—  rise  and  fall  of,  6 
Nisibin,  514 
Nyanza,  Albert,  7 

—  Victoria,  7 

OFFICERS  appointed  to  the  Expe- 
dition, 151,  152 
Omkes,  remains  at,  47 
Orfah,  once  Emessa,  186,  419 
Ormsby,  Lieutenant,  R.N.,  84 
Orontes,  the  estuary  of,  169 

—  course  of,  172 

Overland  route  through  Arabia,  330 

PACKOLET  river.  South  Carolina, 
155 
Pallacopas  Canal,  335 
Palmyra,  50,  58 
Palmyra,  and  plain  of,  341 
Paul's  Gate  at  Antioch,  191 
Peacock,  Mr.,  4,  143 
Pereepolis,  106 
Plague,  84,  95 

—  treatment  of,  101 

Port  WilHam,  198,  219,  447 

—  heaviest  boiler  arrives  at,  209 


Q 


UIN,  Sergeant-Major,  347 
—  biographical  notice  of,  555 


RACCA,  434 
Raft,  construction  of,  67 
Rassam  Mr.  C.  A.,  joins  the  Expedi- 
tion, 164 
—  biographical  notice  of,  666 
Red  Sea,  navigation  of,  365 
Reschid  Pacha,  career  of,  422 
Rich's  discoveries  at  Eski-Kifri,  494 
Robinson,  Dr.  Romney,  153 
Ross,  Dr.,  309 
Routes  through  Egjrpt,  366 
Rum  Kaleh,  137 

Russian  advances  towards  India,  354 
Russian  fleet  at  Constantinople,  145 


s 


AAN,  route  of,  369 
Sabine,  General,  133 


TAU 

Sadi,  tomb  of,  105 

Said  Omar,  hermitage  of,  602 

Sailing  of  the  Expe£ton,  165 

Saklawiyah  canal,  82 

Salt  lake,  316,  345 

Samsat,  remains  at,  1 39 

Samson,  Mr.,  49 

Sandeman,  George  Glas,  Esq.,  200 

Scanderoon,  line  of  canals  from,  146 

Seil-Jerash  river,  46 

Seleucia,  and  hollow  way  at,  169,  171 

Severek,  422 

Seyd  Ali,  204,  219,  316,  846 

Shaara,  23 

ShahofP^ia,  111 

Shakka,  ruins  of,  26 

Shapur  Shah,  98 

—  valley  of,  103 

Shatt-el-Arab  river,  93,  94,  292,  294 
Sheepshanks,  Rev,  R.,  162,  153 
Sheikh-el-Shuyukh,  town  of,  93,  321 
Sheikh  Soliman,  436 

—  Woofa,  22,26 
Shiahs,  the,  91 
Shiraz,  104 

Shushan,  remains  of,  99 
Shuster,  city  of,  97 
Sidra  Shatt  canal,  90 

Sifara,  antediluvian  Sippara,  82 
Sis,  town  of,  216 

Sivas,  ancient  Sebasteia,  130, 184,  529 
State  of  commerce  on  the  Eaphrates 

and  Tigris,  356 
Staunton,  Dr.  C.  F.,  biographical  notice 

of,  552 

—  Mr.  A.  A.,  biographical  notice  of, 
553 

Steam  Committee,  142,  143 
Stocqueler,  Mr.  (now  J.  H.  Siddons),  93 
Stomo-Gemileh,  370 
Stone,  Migor,  112 
Stores  landed,  174 
Suedia,  railway  from,  3 

—  landing  near,  170,  171 
Suez  ship-canal,  2 
Sullivan,  Mr.  John,   144 
Sulphur  at  Hit,  78 
Summary  of  the  Expedition,  352 
Supreme  Gt)vemment  of  India,  322 

—  instructions  by,  328 
Survey  of  coast  of  Syria,  192 

—  of  Orontes  452 
Sus,  99 

Szalt,  town  of,  43 

TADMOR,  wounded  Franks  at,  60, 
342 
Tamerlane,  mopumcnt  of,  104 
Tarsus,  212 
Tauk-Kezra,  remains  at,  309 


I 


39  Patbbsostba  Bow,  E.G. 
London:  January  1868. 


GENERAL  LIST  OP  WOEIS 


PUHTJHHBD  BT 


Messrs.  LOMMAIS,  &EESN,  fiEASEB,  and  BTER. 


AfiTs,  Manufactures,  &c 12 

iSTSOXOMT,    MSTBOROLOGY,    FoPUULB 

Geografht,  &c 7 

BiooRAPHT  A!n)  Mbkoibs 3 

OuEMisTRT,  Mbdicimb,  Suboert,  and 

the  AlXIBD  SCCBNCBB   10 

CovMEBCB,  Navigation,  and  Mercan- 
tile Affairs  19 

Criticism,  Philology,  &c. 4 

t*^iNB  Arts  and  Illvstratbd  Editions  11 

JjisTORicAL  Works 1 

IxrEX  21—24 


MiSCBLLANBOUS  Bod  PoPUTJlB    JiSTA- 

PHTsicAL  Works 6 

Natubal     Histobt     and     Populab 

SCIBNCE 7 

PoBTBT  and  The  Drama 18 

Bblioious  and  Moral  Works 14 

BuRAL  Sports,  &c. 19 

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A   Familiar   History  of  Birds. 

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and  Spenoe's  Introduction 

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EUstory,  or  Popular  Dictionary  of  Zoology. 
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The    Elements   of   Botany   for 

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tmy.  Descriptive  and  Snr- 

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ology.  Edited  by  the  late  B.B.  Todd, 
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1  College.    With  numerous  lUnstra- 
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..  I.  Xew  Edition  by  Dr.  Lionel  S. 
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to  the  Microscopical  Examination  of 
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SUM 

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The   ELements   of    Meohanism. 

By  T.  BL  GooDBYB,  M.A.  Prof,  of  Me- 
dianics  at  the  R.  M.  Acad.  Woolwich. 
Second  Edition,  with  217  Woodcnta.  Poet 
8yo.  6«.  6d 

tJre'8  Diotioxiaiy  of  ArtB,  Manu- 

&ctare8,  and  Mines.  Sixth  Edition,  chiefly 
re- written  and  greatly  enlarged  by  Bobsbt 
Huirr,  F.R.S.,  assiBted  by  numeroui  Con- 
tributors eminent  in  Science  and  the  Arts, 
and  familiar  with  Manufactures.  With 
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Treatise  on  Mills  and  MiUwork. 

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Usefol  Information  for  Engineers.  By 
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Iron  Ship  Biiildingi  its  History 

and  Progress,  as  comprised  in  a  Series  of 
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conditions  of  the  Material ;  and  an  Inquiry 
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A    History    of  the    Hachine- 

Wronght  Hosiery  and  Lace  Manu£u:tures. 
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Manual  of  Practical  Assayingi 

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Joshua  Criticallj  Ezamined.  By  the  Right 
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UET,  M.A.  I.  Priettly  Ahto^utlon  Scrip' 
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22 


NEW  WORKS  PTBLiiHSD  ET  LONGMANS  Aan>  CXX 


EixiroTT'B  CommcnlwT  on  Epbeuans 

DMtMiToflheCremlur*    

. I/vi  i:rtrt  •  n  Life  of  Chrbt   

O  xnu.'-'i.tarj- ».  n  ftalalutiis 

I*asftorml  EpUt. 

I'i  i!ipp'.ai3^.±'\ 

Th'ii5al'jiinmi 

Kxiii.L'B  lutrmluction  to  Natioual  Miutic  .. 

Btaajd  antl  B^'vi-  w*    

on  R'rlirion  an<l  Lil«Taturr,odit«J  bj 

EwALli's  llUtorj"  •  f  Un**\  


.4 
.4 
4 
4 
4 
I 
.4 
1 


Wrought  Iron  to  BuiWinr    13 

^^-—  Iiifurj.aiiuu  fvr  Eiifnu^^n  .... 

. Trrmtiw  on  M \\[%  and  M  Ul work  18 

Fajbbaicx  on  Iron  Shipbuilding IS 

Yarbab's  Chai  f-r^  on  Lviruaic*? 5 

TXLSIB  on  Hosi^-ry  k  Iac^  Mannfarturea. .  IS 

FFOi'LKm'B  Chriktoudnm's  Divinona 15 

TLiBDinEB**  irwtor)  Ufb 4 

Feascib'8  Fi-Jhinc  Book  19 

n                <8ir  P.)  M<omalr  and  Journal ....  S 

PtorPB**  HiJitory  of  Bngland    I 

^— —  Short  8tndi«w  C 

OA?fOT*s  Elomentary  Pliyaira 8 

G II  JiBBT  and  Cn  u  Kcn  I  i.L*8  Dolomite  Moun- 

talnR IS 

Oii.L*BrBpall>rama  2 

(iii.L\''B8hl!Jwncksof  theNavy  17 

OoonsTB*!  B!enirnt«  of  MechaniKni IS 

Goblets  Quest  iniiri  on  Brow5S*8  Exposition 

oftbeS9AriicU4 14 

Ob  Airr*«  Bthirs  of  Ari»iotle 4 

GraTor  Th  jnphts  of  a  Counlr^*  Pinon 6 

Oray'a  Anaiomy 11 

Grbritk's  Corals  and  ScA  Jollies   *  9 

SponcrfA  and  Animalcidae 9 

OBom  on  Oorrelntion  of  niysictil  Forces  . .  8 

Gwi  lt'b  EncyclopsKlia  of  Architecture  ....  12 

ifandlK>«>k  of  Angltnc.  iiy  ErnxiiXBA 19 

Haro  on  Election  of  ReitrcBentatiTes  5 

fjABUCTand  KBOWX'aUifltolocical  DeiBon- 

ttratioiifl • 11 

H  ABTWio'tf  Ilormoniea  of  Nature 9 

Polar  World  9 

HeaanditsLivinirWonden....  9 

Tropic«I  World 9 

IIauoutox'b  Manual  of  Geology 8 

Hawkbb's  Instnxctions  to  Young  Sport*- 

nicn  19 

Hbabb'b  llntology 2 

on  English  Gorcmment  I 

Hblp8*8  Rpaniflh  Conquest  in  AmcrirB   ....  t 

Hex dbbson'b  Folk-Loro 6 

Hkrbchzl's  EnsayB  fh>m  Reriews  10 

Outlines  of  Astronomy 7 

^lYi'liminaiy  Piflcourse  on  the 

Study  of  Natural  Philowophy  8    , 

llKWiTT  on  the  Dis'  iu>es  of  Women 19 

Hoimnojf'H  Timr  and  Space 7    > 

iIor.MK8*8Hy«tcin  of  Surgery 19    , 

Hook  KB  Biid  Walbee-Arkott's   British 

Mora 0    i 

liorjciNs's  Hanaii g 

HOK.VK  8  Introduction  to  tha  Scriptuns  ..  14    < 

Compendium  of  the  6cr^t«i«8  ..  14    ! 


HoBftx.KT's  Mat-usI  of  Foiaoos   -I 

HC'SK^nrs'sCtcvaa^vjA:  Esaa;^ 1 

U  -w  ve  Spc::s  tbe  Suauner «> 

H-^TTABTj  Gy— EMtiv-  BxtTciiea   n 

UuHTXT'a  AufCralcaa  I>iseo(rery V 

Riral  LiTo  :rE;icla=d t 

Vi»:t«  t->  R^Tsvkable  PtoMi  ....  t 

llcTkfri'X's  Executor's  Ga>le    ' 

Hughes's  Gariea  ATv-VJtcrture B 

nv.^  MaomloTGeoRBphy » 

llrLL-iH's  H^i.-ry  of  Modem  Maac ^ 

Transitive  Vu^km!  Lectozw  ....  B 

S^-T^Xusic    U 

HrMPiiRETS's  S*ul;m«:t»  of  Shakspenv ••  B 

HrrroB's  Stadtea  in  PBrliBSBaat * 

flymv.%  fporr:  Ljrra  Orrmamica   ** 

l5«iBi»w*8  Poeoia   ■ 

Story  or  DooB • 

Icelandic  Lefmids.  Svomrp  SsKiSi  ......••  0 

Jame«ox's  Legeadfl  of  tbe  Sainta  uailbf- 

tyrs    U 

Lecivds  of  the  Madonna M 

liccends  of  theMonAstkOrdos  U 

Jameson  aiwl  BAm.AJCB*iB  HiatotytfOv 

Lord « 

Jexiteb's  Holy  Child ^ 

JonxBTOxV  GaBett<«r.    or  Qeoenl  Oss* 
rrapliical  J>ictionarj  ' 

KAT.iM'H'sOommentaiT'on  tbeBihIe ^ 

Heltrew  O  msBmar ' 

Keith  on  Destiny  of  the  TTorld ^ 

FulAlment  of  ProiAecT ** 

Kbllkr'8  Lake  Dwelluics  of  Switaertettd  .*  ^ 

Kb6TBTB5>  Domestic  Medicive   ^ 

KiBBT  and  Spbxcb's  EDtomoiogy J 

K5IGHT*8  Arch  of  Titus " 

Lad3''8  Ti>ar  round  Monte  Sosa ^ 

Lakdo.n'0  (L.E.  L.)  Poetical  Woriis  ^^ 

Latham's  English  Dictionaiy ^ 

RiTcr  Plate ' 

Lawbenceou  Rocks ' 

Lecky'b  Histoiy  of  Rationalism  ^ 

Leisure  Hours  in  Town •  * 

Lessons  of  Middle  Age  ^ 

Letters  of  Distinguished  Muaieians * 

LEWEd'8  Biographical  IlistoiyofPhilosaplV  ^ 
LiDDBLLandSooTT'sGreek-EnfriishltfOOOB   • 

Abridged  ditto  • 

LifeofManfiymlK^ised IS 

LiNPLEY  and  Moork*s  Treaaur>'  of  Bolaqy  * 
Lotto  vaic'b  Ijeetnrea  on  History  of  Bngland  2 
LouDOH's  Encydopsedia  of  Agricniture . . .  •    ^ 

Gardening M 

Planto » 

Treesaad  Shrohs     • 

Cottage,  Farm,  and  VniaArchitectm«  IS 

Lowndes's  Engineer's  Handbook IS 

Lorra  Domostica IS 

Bucharistica 19 

Gerroanica 1X19 

Msssianica 1« 

MyaUok  W 

Sacra   1« 

Macaux«at*s  (Lord)  SsBSdrs ' 


INDEX 


AcTo'd  Mo<3ern  Cookory 20 

A i.cock's  Residoiico  in  Japan 16 

A  LLiKs  on  Formation  of  Christianity 15 

Alpine  Guiilo  (The) 16 

Ai.vLxsLEBEN's  Maximilian  in  Moxico  ....  4 

Arjoii!f 'd  Manual  of  the  Metalloids    9 

Arnold's  3fanua]  of  Knglish  Literature  . .  6 

Akvotx's  Elements  of  Physics  8 

Arundines  Cami   18 

Autumn  Holidays  of  a  Country  Parson  ....  6 

A  yre's  Treasury  of  Bible  Knowledge 14 

Dacox's  Essays  by  Whately  5 

Life  and  Letters,  by  Sfeddiko   ..  3 

Works 4 

1>A IX  on  the  Emotions  and  Will   7 

on  the  Senses  and  Intellect 7 

oil  the  Study  of  Character 7 

Ball's  Guide  to  the  Central  Alps 10 

Guide  to  the.  Western  Alps IG 

Guide  to  the  Eastern  Alps  16 

B  V BXAED's  Drawing  from  Nature   12 

Ba YLDOs's  lUnits  and  Tilla^ces 13 

Beaten  Tracks  16 

liECKEn'a  OtatHcles  and  Cfallvs 17 

Beetuo>'En's  Letters 4 

Bkxfey's  Sanskrit-English  Dictionary  ....  6 

JJkury's  Journals 3 

Black's  Treatise  on  Brewing 20 

Blacklby'  and   Fiiiedlandeb*8  German 

and  English  Dictionary G 

Blaixe's  Rural  Sports 19 

Veterinary  Art 19 

Blight's  Week  at  the  Land's  End 17 

Booth's  Epigrams 6 

Bo  r  RVB  on  Screw  Propeller 13 

'8  Catechism  of  the  Steam  Engine . .  13 

Handbook  of  Steam  Engine  ....  13 

Treatise  on  the  Steam  Engine....  13 

Bo wdler's  Family  Sha  kspeare 18 

Bii  AM  let-Moore's  Six  Sisters  of  theValleys  17 
Bkaxdr's  Dictionary  of  Science,  Literature, 

and  Art 10 

Brat's  (C.)  Education  of  the  Peelings  ....  7 

Philos'  'phy  of  Necessity  7 

On  Force 7 

Brixtox  on  Food  and  Digestion 20 

BRisTOw'sGlossary  of  Mineralogy   8 

Brodie's  Constitutional  History 1 

(SirC.  B.)  Works 11 

Browne's  Exposition  39  Articles 14 

Buckle's  History  of  Civilisation 2 

JUll*s  Hints  to  Mothers 20 

Maternal  Management  of  Children . .  20 

BuxSKX's  Ancient  Egypt 8 

GodinHistory 3 

Memoirs 3 


BuxsEN  (E.  De)  on  Apocrypha 15 

'8  K^ys  of  St.  Peter  15 

Burke's  Vicissitudes  of  Families 4 

BuRTOX's  Christian  Church    3 

Cabinet  Lawyer 20 

Calvert's  Wife's  Manual 15 

Catss's  Biographical  Dictionary 3 

Cats  and  Farlie's  Moral  Emblems    12 

Chorale  Book  for  England   11 

Christian  Schools  and  Scholars 6 

Clougii's  Lives  from  Plutarch 2 

CoLEXSO  (Bishop)  on  Pentateuch  and  Book 

of  Joshua 15 

CoLLiX'8'8  Horse  Train'-r's  Guide  19 

Commonplace   Philosopher  in   Town  and 

Country   c 

CoxixaT05 's  Chemical  Analysis  10 

Translation  of  Virgil's  JiSneid  13 

Co^TAXsEAv's  Two  Frcnch  and  English 

Dictionaries 6 

CoxTBEABE  and  Howsox'sLife  and  Epistles 

ofSt.Paul 14 

Cook's  Acts  of  the  Apostles 14 

Coplaxd'8  Dictionary  of  Practical  Medicine  11 

CouLTU ART'S  Decimal  Interest  Tables  ....  20 

Cox's  Manual  of  Mythology 17 

Tales  of  the  Great  Persian  War 2 

Tales  flrom  Greek  Mythology 17 

Tales  of  the  Gods  and  Heroes 17 

Tales  of  Thebes  and  Ai^pos 17 

Crawlet's  Billiard  Book 20 

Crest's  Encyclopicdia  of  Civil  Engineering  13 

Critical  Essays  of  a  Country  Parson 6 

Crowe's  History  of  Prance 8 

Crump  on  Banking,  &c 19 

Cu86AX8'8  Grammar  of  Heraldry 12 

Dart's  Iliad  of  Homer 18 

D'AuBioxs's  History  of  the  Reformation  in 

the  time  of  Calvix 2 

Davidson's  Inti*oductiou  to  New  Testament  14 

Datm Ax'8  Dante's  Divina  Commedia 18 

De:id  Shot  (Tlic),  by  Marksmax 19 

De  Bu Ron's  Maritime  International  Law. .  20 

De  la  Hive's  Treatise  on  Electricity 8 

De  Moroax  on  Matter  and  Spirit  7 

De  Tocqubvi  llb's  Democrat^  in  America .  2 

Disraeli's  Speeches  on  Reform    5 

DoBSOX  on  the  Ox  19 

DovK  on  Storms  8 

Dyers  City  of  Rome 2 

E astlake's  Hints  on  Household  Taste ....  12 

Edwards's  Shipmaster's  Guide 20 

Elements  of  Botany 6 


'/?        ->     Oi^ 


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