;;<'i3<',''- i"'';
NARRATIVE
EXPLORING VOYAGE.
NARRATIVE
EXPLOEING VOYAGE
UP THE RIVERS KWO'RA AND BPNUE
(COMMONLY KNOWN AS THE NIGER AND TSADDA)
IN 1854.
WITH A MAP AND APPENDICES.
I PUBLISHED WITH THE SANCTION OF HER MAJESTY'S
GOVERNMENT.
WILLIAM BALEOUR BAIKIE,
M.D.E.N., F.R.G.S., F.S.A. SCOT., ETC. IS C01tMA,>'D OP TOE EXPEDITION.
PRINCE TSHIJkUMA.
LONDON :
JOHN MUERAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1856.
,<• "'*'V^
LONDON :
BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRl ARS.
PREFACE.
The following " Narrative," which has been
considerably delayed by various unlooked-for inter-
ruptions, and which has been compiled during leisure
intervals snatched from professional and other pur-
suits, is simply a record of the observations and
results of the exploring expedition up the rivers
Kwora and Binue in 1854. In addition to what
caine actually under our notice, I have endeavoured
to record any interesting or useful information
obtained regarding the little known regions of Central
Africa. In an Appendix will be found various
tables, lists, and documents, not of general interest,
and therefore excluded from the body of the Avork,
but at hand to be referred to by those concerned in
such topics. I have been carefid to note any tradi-
tions regarding the early history of the different
tribes, as though at present they are of comparatively
11?48S8
viii PREFACE.
little value, the time will come when these apparently
trifling stories will he sought after with as much
avidity, as the historical antiquary of our own country
eagerly culls any legends or tales relating to those
ages when our Teutonic or Keltic progenitors,
barbarous and unlettered, were not a whit more
advanced than many of the Ethiopian races of the
present day.
All native proper names throughout the volume
have been written in conformity with the alphabet
printed in the Appendix, every letter being sounded,
and the vowels having the powers given to them
in Italian. To prevent confusion the only mark
employed has been simply one over the accented
syllable.
In computing distances two very diff'erent reckon-
ings are employed. One is the long day's journey,
from sunrise to sunset, or from fifteen to twenty-five
miles, twenty being an average, equal to about fifteen
or sixteen miles made good on horizontal space.
The other is the short day's journey, from sunrise to
about noon, or from eight to twelve or fourteen
miles, ten being perhaps the nearest average, which
may represent eight miles of actual progress.
^•I
PREFACE. ix
I have felt obliged often to be more personal than
I could have desired, and to allude to disputes and
to differences over which I would gladly have thrown
a veil; but as these matters have lately been made
the subject of judicial proceedings, I have mentioned
them, partly in my own defence, partly to show
why the success of the Expedition was not more
complete than it was, and also that future exploring
parties might be aware of and so avoid the various
stumbling-blocks which so often tended to impede
our progress.
Two works have already appeared regarding our
Voyage. One, proceeding from a most estimable
individual, is in the form of a short jomiial, referring
more especially to the prospects for missionary
efforts, while the other seems rather to relate the
private opinions and individual experiences of a
member of the party, than to contain an account
of the Expedition. It is hoped that the present
one, which aims at being more detailed than its
predecessors, will satisfy any anxiety which may
be felt about the once dreaded " Niger," or con-
cerning the rude natives around ; and if it serves
in any degree to excite a warmer feeling towards
X PREFACE.
the ill-treated African, to claim a small degree of
attention for ricli but neglected regions, or to
stimulate further enquiries and explorations, the
writer will consider his labours not to have been
altogether in vain.
Haslar Hospital,
20\'A Mud, 135!}.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
INTEODrCTOKY.
PAOE
Theobies regarding the course of the Kwdra — African explorers —
Dr. Earth's discovei'y of the Upper Binue — The " Pleiad " — Mr.
Beecroft 1 — G
CHAPTER II.
THE yOTAGE OTTT.
Departure from Plymouth — Bay of Biscay — Towing nets — Oceanic
captures — Funchal — Quarantine — Santa Cruz — Torch Fishing —
Peak of TenerifFe — North East Trades — Flying-fishes — Petrels —
Cape de Vei'de — Goree— Wolofs — Bathurst — Tornado — Sien-a Leone
— Inhabitants — The " Pleiad " — Monrovia — Southern Cross — Cape
Coast Castle — A marriage — Mr. Beecroft's death — Akri — Lagos —
Surf — Sharks — Mr. Crowther — Old Kalabilr — Cameroon — Fernando
Po — New arrangements — Mr. May — Arrival of the "Pleiad" — Dr.
Bleek — Preparations 7—30
CHAPTER III.
THE LATTXCn OF THE EXPEDITION.
Leave Clarence — Nun Mouth — Sea on the bar — Repairs — Alburkah
Islands — Mangroves — Richard's Creek — Sunday Island — Oru Vil-
lages — Angicima —Again agi'ound — Wdri branch— Abo — ^Aliheli —
Tshiikuma — ^Visits — Pi-esents — Natives alarmed — Ladies' oi-naments
—Kola Nuts 31-50
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
I'GBO AXB IGA'KA.
PAGE
Bullock Island — Ossamard — Hippopotami — Onitshd and Asabct — Sand-
bank — Ada-Mugu — Round huts — Iddil cliffs — A'boko's party — Iddi
politics — Camp on English Island — Court of the Att^ — Reception
ceremonies — Yisitoi's — Igdi-a — Language — Edo — Ivory — Volcanic
blocks — Bird-Rock — Okiri — Moonlight at Iroko — Mounts Franklin
and Crozier — Igbegbe — A'ma A'boko — The Confluence — The " Dark
Water " — Odokodo — Hdusa — Biuue — Adamdwa — Model-farm —
Sacrifice-Rock — Visit to Mount Pilte — Panorama — Trade— Des-
patches — Baobabs — O'gbe's jug — "White Ants' nests — Leave the
Confluence — A'tipo — Purchase wood — A'ma-A'boko's messengers
— Hai-riet Island — Lander's Seat — Mount Vidal — Oldfield Range
— Yimah^ — I'gbira — Panda — Fulatas — Plague of Flies — Kdnde —
Sets of observations — Continuance of health — Dispute with a Croco-
dile — A'batsho — Pdnda refugees — Diflliculties — Soundings — Consul-
tation — Changes in the Ministry .... . 51 — 93
CHAPTER V.
THE NEW ADXIXISTEATION.
Early start — Ofi" Eruko — Dc4gbo — Admiralty Archipelago — D6ma
Hills — A'kpoko — Royal Interview — Sir John Richardson's Islands —
Isabella Island — Troublesome Navigation — O'jogo — Two White
Strangers'? — Embassy to Ke^na — Wood-cutting — Mitshi — Rejected
friendship — Mr. May alarms the Court — Deputations — Doma
Cookery — New Lights — Fresh Plans — AVoodeu Leg— Ddma History
— O'jogo Habits — Iron Monej' — Juvenile Game — False Gavial —
Trade canoe sent to the Confluence — Dearth in the Sugar-Market^
Rogan-Koto — Clarendon Island — Moimt Beecroft — Washington
Island — Ellesmere Range —Mounts Latham and Christison — Mount
Adams — Mount Tr^nabie — Mount Traill — Nu— Kororofa — Terror
of the Natives— Martial Meeting— Alarm of Kruboys— G^ndiko —
Pulbe — Djuku — Zhibu — Grand Pi-ocession — Distinguished Recep-
tion — Moslemin — Fdro — Abundance of Ivory . . . 94 — 134
CHAPTER VI.
THE UPPEE BI'K^TJE.
Mount Humboldt— Temporary Sails — Evening ^Meeting with Hippo-
potami — Mount Forbes — Albemarle Range — Akam — Strong Cur-
rent — Green Wood — Direction of Tornadoes — Attack on a huge tree
— Interruption by a Leopard — Mosquitoes — Fumbina Mountains —
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Zliiru — Rise of the River — Zoological Treasures — S;(raki 'n Hdusa —
Cut "Wood under difficulties — An Embassy Despatched — Gurowa —
Miiri Mountains — Bak 'n Dutshi — Wa — Mr. Crowther's Return —
The Sultan's Letter — Start for Hamaruwa — Arrival — Congratulations
— Supper — Heavy Dew — Rain — Ptilbe — Dress and Ornaments —
Henna — Geographical Examination — "Written Charms — The Sultan's
Palace — Grand Interview — Reciprocity of Sentiment — Attired in
Tobes — Return — March in Detachments — Arboreal Night Quarters
— Feline Attendants and Feathered Companions — Astronomical
Studies — Bad Roads — Breakfast at Wuzu — Trade — Eccentric Rain-
bow — Scurvy — Struck by Lightning — Boat Cruise — Tsbdmo —
Hunting Relics — Bdibai — Surprise an Elephant — Flooded Banks —
Sunset at Ldu — Mount Laird — Pleiad Island — Wild Hunters —
River Horses — Djin— Cause a Sensation — Too Pressing Attentions —
Night-melodies — Fishing Station — Fresh Breeze — Mountainous
Country — Mount Gabriel — Dulti — "Village under AVater — Astonish-
ment of the Natives — People become curious — Huse de Guerre —
Rapid Retreat — Dulti Regatta — Terror of the Krumen — The Race
"Won 135—200
CHAPTER YII.
THE KETUEir.
Apology for Dulti — " Ne plus ulti-a" — Anticipated Cannibalism — Djln
again — Fluviatile bo-peep ! — Bdndawa — Magnificent Thunder-storm
— Fortunate Position — Morning Exploit — Mount Eleanor — "Pleiad"
again Missing — Farewell to Gurowa — Take Stock — Regrets — Resume
the Survej' — Fan Palms — River still Rising — Devious Channels —
Submerged Country — Genuine Exploring Trip — No Land in Sight
— Dead Lioness — Signs of a Deluge — Amphibious Aborigines 1 —
Regain the River — " Dere de Ship " — " Pleiad " hard and fast — Suc-
cessful efforts — Bc^utshi Slaver — " Kantai " — Prices of Slaves and of
Horses— Scurvy Continues — Measures — Causes . . . 201 — 22'.:
CHAPTER VIII.
FTTRTnEK DISAPPOINTMENTS.
Zhibii — King surly — The Monarch bearded in his Hall — Diplomacy —
Prevented from visiting Wukdri— The Galadima — Saraki 'n Doki —
River Mlvag—Polypterus — Crowther Island — Gtlndiko— "Varieties of
Corn — Kigelia — A'ny ishi — Rapid Current — Route to Wukiiri- -Lead-
ore— Mutshi—Rdgan-Koto—Onuse —Good Fuel— Irihu— O'jogo —
iv TABLE OP CONTENTS.
PAGE
rick up tlie Messengers — No Dr. Earth — Zuri troublesome — Recom-
peuce to O'rabo— Suspected Slave — Visit from King of A'kpoko
— White Cock — Diigbo — Extreme Heat — Zozo — Bloodthirsty-
Mosquitoes— Eruko— Palm-nut Oil — Magnificent Palisade— Archi-
tectural Remains— Huge Pipes— AlihdU's Friend — Pulbe Attack —
Mr. May visits Ik(^reku — A'batsho— Detection and Ransom of a
Slave Boy— Amardn — Hear of our Canoe— Sun's Meridian Altitude
— Yimahd— Call on the new King — Blacksmith's Forge — I'gbira
History— Redeeming Captives — Monkey Bi-ead-frnit — " Big-man of
O'gba "—Duck Islands 223— 2C4
CHAPTER IX.
THE CONFLUENCE.
Changes — Sickness in the Canoe — A'ma-A'boko rather cool — Explana-
tions — Nupe — Kak^nda — Bdsa — Bonii — Ishdbe — Brisk Trade —
Large Market — Zuri's felonious attempt — Grand " palaver " at the
Palace — Anti-slavery Lecture — Mr. May's Ascent of Mount Pdte —
Huge yams — Agricultural implements — Gigantic Baobab — Arabic
MSS. — Stamboul — Symbolical letter — Departure — Pyrotechnic
phenomenon — Beaufort Island — Ehimodina and Okeyin — More
ivory — I'gbira-Shima — Iddd — Threatened Tornado — Aliheli's story
— Promised bullock — Wild festival — Iddd declining — Igara tradi-
tions — I'gbo cloth — Musical band — Ado river — A'da-mugu —
Muskets — Signs of confidence — Commercial transactions — A'ra
mats— Utu 205—292
CHAPTER X.
i'gbo.
Indm — Nsugbe — Prices of muskets — Asabd — Acoustic instruments —
Palm wine — Warrior's tokens — Onitshd — E'lugu — Ossamare —
Isu£[ma — Lilliputian canoes— Muddy town — Ndoni — Abo — Simon
Jonas — Stray tea-chest— Mr, Carr's murder — -Ddsaba's march —
Alihdli paid off — Visit from Aje and most of the royal family —
Crowded decks — Animated discussion — Shower bath — Health
improving — Provisions nearly consumed — Farewell to Aje —
Malaghetta pepper — I'gbo divisions — 'Itshi or Mbrltshi — A'ro—
Shrine of Tshuku — Religion — Orisa — Rites — Djii-dju trees —
Kamdllo — Igwikdlla — Funeral ceremonies— I'gbo week — Food —
Price of slaves — Agbdri — Pilgrim from A'ro — Recognition of a
mosquito— Mist among the trees — Angidma — Sickly stench — Buy
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
wood — Advise the King — Doctor's shop — Attack on Lander —
Anchor off Baracoou Point — Prepare for sea — Mr. May's visit to the
Brass river — Distressed British subjects — Nimbe — Kwora hygiene —
Quinine 293—328
CHAPTEE XI.
FEENANDO TO.
Palm Point — No breakers — Crossing the Bar — Three passages — Meet
a schooner — First news — Round Cape BuUen — Fire a salute — Hear
of the Battle of Alma — Kruboys' rejoicings — Leave the " Pleiad " —
King Peppel — Bonny news — New Kalabdr — Rio Formoso — Bini —
Cede — Agato — Belzoni'a papers — S6bo — Tsh^keri — Ijebus — J6-
meu — Salt- wood — Baion — Bdti — Yiila — Value of Fernando Po —
Invasion of Spanish priests 329 — 3 19
CHAPTER XII.
THE TOTAGE HOME.
Leave Clarence — Aground in the Cameroons — Duke Town — Mr.
Anderson — E'fik — Kwd — Mbrukim — Ordeal bean — Captain Lewis —
Kantoro — Okuloma — King Dappa — Cannibalism — Trust system —
Commercial association — Different modes of reckoning — Disturb-
ances at Bonny — Mr. Crowther's return to Yoruba — Joined by the
Bishop and Archdeacon — Abadayigi — Ashdnti — Conversation with
Bishop Vidal — MItshi boy — Akrd, — Cape Coast Castle — Governor
Hill — Cape Palmas — Kru country — Monrovia — Illness and death
of the Bishop — Sad Christmas — Water-spout — Sierra Leone —
Repairs — Interviews with natives — Coffee — Exports — Vexatious
regulations— Bathurst official — Gor6e — Snowclad Peak of Teneriffe
— Trophies in the Cathedral at Santa Cruz — Rough weather — Fun-
chal— Gale of wind— Arrival at Plymouth . . . .350—384
CHAPTER XIII.
CONCLirSION.
Results of the voyage— Slave trade — African squadron — Piracy —
Pulo alliance — Further expeditions — African languages — Late
travellers — Incentives to renewed exertions .... 385 — 397
xvi TABLE OP CONTENTS.
■< PACK
Appendix A. — Description of the " Pleiad " — Admiralty Instructions
— Mr. Laird's Instructions — Correspondence— Native African Treaty 399
Appendix B. — Various Forms of Currency .... 416 — 417
Appendix C— Philological 417 — 425
Appendix D. — Geographical 425—450
Appendix E. — Ethnological 450 — 452
Appendix F. — Natural History 452
Appendix G. — Medical 452 — 455
Appendix H. — Commercial 455 — 456
ILLUSTRATIONS.
View of the " Pleiad " Frontispiece.
Prince Tshukuma On Title-page.
Plans op the " Pleiad " To face p. 399.
Map At the end.
NARRATIVE
EXPLORING VOYAGE,
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
From the days of Herodotus to very recent times
the theories which have been brought forward
regarding the course and distribution of the Kwora,
or Niger, have been ahke numerous and varied.
Geographers, both ancient and modern, have exerted
their utmost ingenuity in endeavouring to solve the
mystery ; and, according as they beheved in the
westward or eastward course of the river, ranged
themselves into two parties, the one pointing to the
Senegal and the Gambia as the mouths of this
mighty stream, while the other either conducted it
through Lake Tsad to join the Nile, or else led it by
a long and dreary route to be identified with the
Congo. It certainly appears singular that, until a
comparatively recent date, no one even hinted at its
real termination. The numerous large bodies of
/
2 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. i.
fresh water falling into the bights of Benin and
Biafra have for long been familiarly known, yet their
source was never enquired after ; and although very
slight consideration Avould have shown that, evidently
closely connected as all these are, they niust flow
from some great river in the interior, it was not
until 1808, that Reichard, judging from the vast
amount of alluvial deposits, first suggested the Rio
Formoso as the outlet of the Kwora, an idea since
proved to be partially true. Major Laing and
Captain Clapperton also believed in the discharge of
its waters into the Bight of Benin, the former
selecting the Rio Volta for the purpose, while the latter
hypothesised an opening to the eastward of Lagos.
But by no one was the enquiry pursued more
zealously or more shrewdly than by Mr. Macqiieen,
who, having collected a vast amount of evidence on
the subject, recommended, in 1829, a carefid exami-
nation of the rivers between the Rio Formoso and
Old Kalabar. It must have been highly gratifying
to this veteran geographer, whose knowledge of
Central Africa is probably unsurpassed, to find only
two years afterwards his supposition verified by the
splendid exploit of the Landers, who, at the expense
of so much risk and suffering, navigated the Kwora
from Yauri to the sea, thereby proving the exist-
ence of an available water communication with the
heart of the African continent. Their discovery was
quickly seized on in England, and the enterprise
of Liverpool merchants speedily fitted out a small
CHAP. I.] INTRODUCTORY. 3
expedition for conimercial and geographical purposes.
This attempt, chiefly from climacteric causes, ended
unfortunately : a spirited and graphic account of its
discoveries and its disasters was published by two of
the survivors, Mr. Macgregor Laird and Mr. Oldfield,
while their companion. Captain (then Lieutenant)
W. Allen, surveyed and compiled a chart of their adven-
turous route, which extended along the main stream
as far as Rabba, and likewise upwards of eighty
miles up a previously unknown large affluent, the
Tsadda. The misfortunes met with by these pioneers
did not afford much encouragement for further
trials, and no attempt of any magnitude was made
until 1841, when the Government fitted out three
steamers, specially built for the purpose. This expe-
dition was intended to carry out, besides extended
research, various philanthropic but ill-matured
schemes. Its ill success, with its fearful amount of
sickness and loss of life, still fresh in our memories,
tended greatly to confirm the conviction of the
deadly nature of the cHmate. The Kwora was
also ascended by the late Mr. Beecroft, in one of
the steamers of the West African Company, in
1836, and again by the same gentleman in the
" vEthiope," a steam vessel belonging to Mr. Jamie-
son of Liverpool, in 1840 and in 1845, on one of
which occasions he entered and explored the branch
running by Wari.
Such is a brief outline of the previous efforts to
investigate and explore this river, and though induce-
B 2
4 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. i.
merits to perseverance were far from wanting, still
no one, reflecting on the great probable sacrifice of
European life, cared about taking the responsibility of
advising another attempt. But in 1852 the question
was again started, in consequence of intelligence
received from Dr. Barth, who, the sole but still un-
daunted survivor of a party which had two years before
crossed the Great Desert, had boldly jom-neyed to the
southward, to endeavour to reach the province of
Adamawa. On the 18th of June, 1851, he crossed a
large stream, named the Binue, which, from the
information he received from the natives, he con-
jectm^ed to be the upper part of the river hitherto
known to Europeans as the Tsadda. To ascertain
this point, the present expedition was principally
destined, the two objects specially mentioned in the
Admiralty instructions being, first to explore the river
Tsadda from Dagbo, the point reached by Allen
and Oldfield in 1833, as far to the eastward as
possible : secondly, to endeavour to " meet and afford
assistance " to Drs. Barth and Vogel. To promote
these designs, the Admiralty entered into a contract
with Mr. Macgregor Laird, to build and equip a
suitable vessel. Mr. Laird, having, as already
mentioned, been himself up the Kwora, and having
always been closely connected with African trade, and
taken a most lively interest in everything tending to
improve or benefit this region, was on these accounts,
as well as on that of his great general experience and
foresight, the very person best suited for planning and
CHAP. I] INTRODUCTORY. 5
giving effect to such an undertaking. Accordingly
an iron screw schooner was built at Birkenhead, in
the yard of Mr. John Laird, and, on being launched,
received the name of the " Pleiad." She was of
260 tons measurement, 100 feet in length, with
24 feet beam, and her engine was of 60 horse-power.
Her draught of water when laden was 7 feet, or
6 feet when in ordinary trim. A sailing-master,
surgeon, officers, and crew were provided for her by
Mr. Laird, and it was arranged that she should be
sent to Fernando Po, where the officers appointed by
government should join. The peculiar features of
this expedition were, first, the employment of as few
white men as possible ; secondly, entering and
ascending the river with the rising waters, or during
the rainy season ; and lastly, it was anticipated that
the use of quinine, as a prophylactic or preventive,
would enable the Europeans to withstand the
influence of the climate. Mr. Laird, being per-
mitted by his agreement with the Admiralty to trade
with the natives whenever it was practicable, provided
a well-assorted cargo, and sent out persons specially
to attend to this branch. The. " Pleiad " having
made a very satisfactory trial trip across the Irish
Channel, finally took her departure from Dublin on
the 20th of May, 1854.
The conduct of the expedition was entrusted to
Mr. Beecroft, Her Majesty's Consul at Pernando Po,
than whom no one had more experience of African
exploration, or could be in all respects better adapted
6 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. i.
for such a responsible post. I was appointed medical
officer and naturalist, and was to have been accom-
panied by another assistant-surgeon, Mr. J. W. D.
Brown, but on the breaking out of the war, his
services were required in the Baltic. Subsequently
it was arranged that Dr. W. Bleek, a German
ethnologist, who had paid much attention to African
philology, shoidd proceed with me; and having received
our instructions, and being amply provided with
instruments and other appliances by the Hydro-
graphical Office, we hurried our preparations for
leaving England by the African mail packet.
CHAPTER II.
THE VOYAGE OUT.
Accompanied by Dr. Bleek and a young man
whom I took with me as zoological assistant, I left
Plymouth by the " Porerunner " packet on the
24th of May, IS 54, and with moderate weather, apd
a tolerably fair wind, soon crossed the Channel, and
reached the Bay of Biscay. The " Porerunner "
being a very fast screw vessel, we made rapid pro-
gress, while from our complement of passengers being
full, our time on board passed away very agreeably.
I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of
several " Africans," * among whom was Mr. Louis
Eraser, one of the survivors of the expedition in 1841.
On two occasions, tempted by the smoothness of the
water, I threw my towing-nets overboard, hoping to
waylay some rare pelagian voyager, but from the rate
at which we were going, from eight to nine knots,
nearly lost all my gear. One evening, when about
a hundred miles to the northward of Madeira, some-
thing went wrong with the machinery, to repair which
* A name familiarly given to all engaged in African trade, or who have
resided much on the west coast of Africa.
8 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap ii.
the engines had to be stopped for some hours. The
wind being very Hght, we did not go under sail more
than two knots, so I remained up most of the night
with my towing-net, in expectation of intercepting
some crepuscular pteropod or other oceanic resident,
but only succeeded in capturing some minute tuni-
caries and acalephs. Many of the latter were highly
phosphorescent, so much so, that by holding three or
four near my watch, I was enabled to see the hour.
Herds of sportive porpoises playing around us clearly
intimated that we were approaching warmer latitudes,
and, at length, on the morning of the 30th, we came
in sight of Porto Santo, and shortly afterwards of
Madeira. By the forenoon, after a quick passage of
less than six days, we were at anchor in Funchal
roads, admiring the steep acclivities and ravines so
beautifully clad with verdure, and wondering at the
strange contrast between the bright sea and sunny
scenes near us, with the dark clouds settling over
the top of the island, and frowning ominously upon
us. No sooner was the anchor down than all the
passengers, many of whom had never previously per-
formed such a lengthened sea-voyage, or been so long
out of sight of land, prepared for an excursion on
shore, and anxiously waited for the moment when
the vessel should be admitted to pratique. But to
our surprise and dismay, the health-boat had no
sooner reached alongside, than we found ourselves
convicted of gross ignorance, and received important
information on a topic, which we had neglected
ouAP. II.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 9
enquiring into before leaving England. This was,
that cholera existed in Glasgow, and therefore the
sanitary magnates, considering that our transit across
twelve hundred miles of the Atlantic had been too
rapid to allow us to have got rid of the foul infection,
considerately forbade our leaving the ship, and placed
us in quarantine. Vain were remonstrances, pro-
tests, entreaties ; the authorities had the latest and
most accurate intelligence, and, moreover, they had
all the power on their side. Consequently, the one
passenger for Eunchal was transferred, under a strict
guard, to the miserable Lazarretto, and the ship was
surrounded by boats bearing villanous yellow flags.
Coal-barges came alongside, and commenced dis-
charging their cargo ; boats with articles for sale
crowded around, and speedily a brisk traffic sprung
up. Bunches of cherries were speedily bought up
at sixpence each ; and baskets, mats, and straw hats
were in great demand. Our steward speculated
largely in these latter, for which he gave a shilling
a-piece, intending to sell them down the coast at
half-a-crown, or more if possible. In making pur-
chases when in quarantine, buyers can only examine
an article by sight, as no sooner do they touch it,
than whether they like it or not, they must keep it, —
ay, and pay well for it too. It is a singular example
of the foresight of the original framers of quarantine
law, that money can always be easily passed from the
affected to the non-affected party. Thus, while indi-
viduals and property of all descriptions must undergo
10 NAKRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
long detention, and purifications by fumigations,
steaming baths, &c., the contagious property of coin
is held to be immediately destroyed by simply passing
it through water ; and so when a purchase has been
effected, the seller concludes by holding up a small
cup or other vessel, containing Avater, into which the
money is allowed to drop ; and this custom prevails
irrespective of country, whether the port be Portu-
guese, Spanish, ItaUan, Greek, or Turkish. But
more seriously speaking, these quarantine absurdities
are made extremely vexatious, as well as expensive to
those who suffer from them.
In the present instance, not to mention merely the
inconvenience, the owners of the packet had to pay for
the keep of the coal-heavers for some eight or ten
days after our departure, — an outlay which would not
be grumbled at were there even a shadow of a reason
alleged, but most annoying and unjust when enforced
in this arbitrary and needless manner. Considering
how much Madeira depends for its prosperity on
English trade, the Portuguese, one would suppose,
ought to be rather more considerate. Leaving
Madeira about sunset, we sighted Teneriffe next
afternoon, and about eleven at night anchored off
Santa Cruz. The little bay was at this time lighted
up by fishing-boats, which at night make use of large
flaming torches, to attract the fish. The water here
being very deep, we had to anchor not far from the
shore, and although we were in quarantine, a mare
belonging to a relation of the governor's was admitted
CHAP. iL] THE VOYAGE OUT. 11
to pratique, by being made to swim ashore, while
the harness was landed without any ceremony.
TenerifFe, after Madeira, looks barren and arid ; the
ravines and the sides of the mountains being com-
paratively unclad with vegetation, and the whole
country around having a more sun-dried appearance.
Santa Cruz itself stands on level ground along the
shore; and, from the anchorage, seems a compact
and regular town, the most conspicuous building
being the cathedral, the Iglesia de la Concepcion.
Along the sides of the steep acclivities around, stone
parapets have been raised, and the spaces between
these and the face of the mountain being filled with
soil, level patches have been formed, fitted for culti-
vation, while it gives to the hills the general appear-
ance of a succession of terraces. Here we looked in
vain for the celebrated Peak, but could distinguish
nothing amidst the mists and clouds which then
enveloped it. But a few hours afterwards we were
more fortunate, as, when some fifteen or sixteen miles
from the land, the sky cleared up and afforded us a
magnificent prospect. We were far enough off to
have a good outline view of the entire island, and
along its steep hills the lights and shadows were
beautifully apparent through the mellow atmosphere
of a fine afternoon, while, towering high towards the
heavens, the Peak raised its lofty head, the summit
showing in clear relief against the blue sky, and half-
way down a solitary stratum of cloud, partially encir-
cling the mountain, gave additional eff'ect to the scene.
1 2 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
After leaving Teneriffe we ran towards the coast
of Africa, with the N.E. trades, carrying with us
delightful weather. Shoals of flying-fishes surrounded
us, amusing us with their glittering flights. Rising in
various numbers, from half-a-dozen to fifty or sixty at a
time, they pursued courses of different lengths, but
seldom exceeding eighty or a hundred yards. Many
flew on board of us, where they were of course speedily
captured, and finally transferred to tlie cook ; one,
in its heedless course, struck a lady passenger, who
was walking on the poop, with such force as nearly
to throw her down. These fish generally rise from
the surface with the wind either a-head or a-beam,
but once up they can turn in different directions,
though not at a sharp angle. Petrels, too, now
began to follow in our wake, skimming along the
surface, or, more rarely, resting for a moment on the
crest of a wave ; active little creatures, busily engaged
in picking up small objects. So incessantly are they
thus occupied that it cannot be merely on matters
dropt overboard that they thus luxuriate ; but most
probably their bill of fare includes also various minute
oceanic existences. The species seemed to be that
known as the Fork-tailed Petrel,* which is common
in the North Atlantic. Early in the morning hardly
any are to be seen, but after sunrise they may be
observed coming up, either singly or in small parties,
and they attain their maximum number shortly
before sunset, after which time they begin gradually
* Thalassldroma Leaclni.
CHAP. II.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 13
and mysteriously to disappear. After entering the
trades the weather, which between Madeira and the
Canaries had been close and rather oppressive, became
much cooler, and a heavy dew fell at night. On the
fourth day after leaving Santa Cruz we got our first
peep at the African continent. Cape de Verde ap-
pearing in sight. What this celebrated headland
may have been in the days of its early Portuguese
explorers I know not, but to us, now-a-days, it seemed
to have been named on the Incus a non lucendo
principle, viz., because not a vestige of green could be
seen about it. About five o'clock in the afternoon we
anchored off Goree, and having got two hours' leave,
most of the passengers visited the shore. Goree is a
little barren island, only a few miles from the main-
land, from which it derives most of its supplies.
Towards the sea, where it rises some thirty or forty
feet, is placed a fort, not overstrong, but sufficiently
so to keep the neighbouring tribes in awe, and to act
as a military depot. On requesting permission to
visit this fortress we were most politely received, and
a French officer kindly volunteered to conduct us
over the place. On returning we walked through the
market-place, where we first met with a negro popu-
lation, here principally composed of Wolofs,* a race
to which I shall afterwards more particularly allude.
Next morning, while off the mouth of the Gambia,
we encountered a slight tornado, the first one of the
* Often incorrectly named Jolofs, ■Vvhich is merely the name of one
portion of the Wolof tei'ritory. — Vide Koelle's " Polyglotta Africana/' p. 16.
14 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. n.
season, as we afterwards learnt, marking the com-
mencement of the rains. This delayed us somewhat
in threading onr way through the intricate entrance
to the river : but bv nine o'clock we were at anchor
off Bathurst. The weather had by this time cleared
up, and was succeeded by most scorching heat, which
over the low, sandy vicinity of the town was most
oppressively felt. Bathurst, though a thriving settle-
ment and the seat of a considerable trade, is by no
means a desirable residence. Placed on the flat,
alluvial deposit at the mouth of the Gambia, it has
nothing to relieve the eye or to beautify the scene,
and in the rainy season is partially flooded. The
barracks and the military hospital are placed near the
shore, so as to catch every vestige of the sea-breeze,
which is here invaluable. Further along are low ex-
tensive mangrove swamps, indicative of everything
except health and dry soil. Bathurst is a military
station, several companies of one of the West India
regiments being always kept there ; and about 140
miles up the river is another smaller depot, on
Macarthy's Island.* A few days afterwards, when off
Sierra Leone, I had a good opportunity of watching
the advance and progress of one of the tornadoes,
which, along this part of the coast, always blow off
shore. It made its appearance in the shape of a
dense black cloud between us and the land, and
* The native population of Bathurst consists chiefly of Wdlofs and of
Mand^ngas ; the latter, with the exception of the Pdlo tribes, by far the
most advanced of the Central African races.
CHAP. II.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 15
extended about one-sixth along the horizon. At first
it seemed to be crossing our course, and to be passing
a-head of us, but suddenly its direction altered,
and it spread, upwards towards the zenith. Presently
the cloud arched beneath, leaving visible a little bit
of gray sky, after which the dark mass rapidly ap-
proached. A white line of foam preceded, and just
before this reached us, everything was, for an instant,
still as death. Soon, however, the scene completely
changed, the storm had. burst upon us, and the
fierce gale was accompanied by tremendous rain,
the drops of which, like hail, caused the face and
hands to smart. Thunder and lightning were absent,
but the fury of the tempest lasted for upwards of
an hour, during which time the violence of the rain
beat down the waves, but as soon as this began to
abate, an angry, cross sea sprung up. We had been,
early in the morning, going from nine to ten knots ;
but the force of the gale speedily reduced our rate to
three. These tornadoes, fortunately, always give
good warning, and consequently seldom do much
mischief. I afterwards encountered many, much
more severe, and also more grand and terrific, but
none ever left the same impression as this, the first
one I ever witnessed.
Our arrival at Sierra Leone was at night, so
that it was not until the following day that I
could form any idea of this notable spot. When,
however, next morning, at sunrise, I got a good
view, I could not help being struck with the extreme
16 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
beauty of the situation ; nor could I fancy that
such a lovely place could have proved so fatal
to Eiu-opean life. Freetown is built on sloping
ground running down to the river-side, and covers
an extensive area. The houses are clean-looking
and well built, and the streets are laid out with much
regularity. Close to the river are various large
piles of buildings, chiefly store-houses ; nearly in the
centre St. George's Cathedral towers over the sur-
rounding edifices ; crowning a considerable eminence
behind, are situated the barracks ; stretching along
to the right are Kru-town, and various settlements
of civilised Africans ; while on the extreme left, at
Fourah Bay, stands the Church Missionary College.
I experienced much hospitality from the merchant
residents, in particular from Mr. Oldfield, one of the
pioneers of Niger discovery, and Mr. C. Heddle,
than whom few have done more towards developing
the resources of Western Africa. Mr. Oldfield had
selected well-qualified interpreters for the expedition,
adapted for the different languages we were most
likely to meet with, viz., I'gbo, Yoruba, Haussa,
Nupe, and Bornuese or Kanuii. Sierra Leone is an
exceedingly busy, bustling place. The anchorage
is usually well stocked with trading-vessels of all
sizes and of various nations, shipping or discharging
valuable cargoes : numerous boats and canoes are
constantly plying to and fro ; along the shore are
groups of boatmen, porters, and other labourers :
hurrying along the principal streets may be seen
CHAP. II.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 17
substantial coloured traders, often with a train of
followers : tlie shops are filled with eager purchasers,
the market-place in the earlier part of the day is
thronged ; while out by Kissy pours from morning
till night, backwards and forwards, an incessant
stream of people. Not a tribe exists from Bornii
or Adamawa to Timbuktu or Senegambia, which is
not here represented ; not a race, from the coast of
Guinea to Barbary, which does not contribute its
quota to the multitude. As various, too, are the
numerous costumes, from the ample turban and
flowing tobe of the Mandenga or Piilo Moslem, to
the more tight-fitting, European garments worn by
the liberated African, or from the scanty clothing
of some remote aborighial, to the semi-nautical style
of the sea-faring Kruman. But it is on Sunday
that the stranger will be chiefly surprised. Then
labour is entirely suspended, the places of worship
are numerously attended, and the entire population
appears clad in its best and most showy attu-e,
free vent being given to the passion for bright
colours and fine dress. In Krutown alone, where
the inhabitants retain their Pagan practices, is any-
thing else to be witnessed, as there, Sunday evening
is devoted to amusement, and dancing to rude music
winds up their holiday.
On the morning of the 13th of June, a small
steamer made her appearance, and on her anchoring
near us, we discovered her to be the " Pleiad " from
Madeira, which had called in to coal, and to ship
18 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
some native seamen. We left the same afternoon,
and the " Pleiad " was to be ready by the next
day; and we calculated that as we should have
numerous detentions, while her only stoppage would
be on the Kru coast, to procure a supply of Kru-
men, we should both reach Fernando Po about the
same time.
Our next place of call was at Monrovia, the
capital of the Liberian republic ; but here, as our
stay did not exceed a few hours, and there was a
very heavy sea on the bar, I did not land. I was
not a little astonished at seeing a native jump out
of his canoe several times, and swim about unharmed,
though three or four large sharks were visible in
the immediate neighbom-hood. The English consul,
Mr. Newnham, who was just convalescing from an
attack of remittent fever, joined us here, to try to
improve his health by a cruise round the Bights.
By this time we were so far south, that the northern
constellations were gradually sinking from our view,
and the Pole Star itself became lost in the mist
above the horizon. These were replaced by various
brilliant representatives, among which, shining as
brightly and as benignly as when first devoutly
gazed on by its pious namers, the Southern Cross
held brilhant position in the tropical sky.
The rainy season had now well set in, and we had
frequent heavy showers, and occasional squaUs. On
the morning of Sunday the 18th of June, we arrived
at Cape Coast Castle, where one of our lady pas-
CHAP. II.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 1 9
sengers left us, and by eleven o'clock the same fore-
noon she was married to one of the officers of the Fort,
for which pm-pose she had courageously undertaken
this trying voyage. I landed here through the surf,
and after having had a look at the place, dhied with
Mr. Hutton, representative of a firm which had for
many years caiiied on along the coast a most extensive
trade, and whose magnificent and most comfortable
residence both surprised and gratified me.
During dinner we were waited on by five or six
nice clean-looking children, whose history is rather
singular. One fine morning Mr. Hutton received as
a present from the King of Ashanti seventeen
children, a right regal donation truly. What could
be done ? To have returned them would have been
against etiquette, and have shown a want of appreci-
ation of his Majesty's condescension. Mr. Hutton,
therefore, having first freed them, acted towards them
according to the dictates of his own kindly disposition ;
he clothed them, fed them, and protected them, and it
was some of those children who attended on us. How
strangely this must read to persons only accustomed
English manners and ideas ! What would be the
feelings of most people at such a sudden and large
increase to their family circle : it would, doubtless,
considerably interfere with domestic arrangements.
About sunset, just as we were preparing to go on
board, a violent tornado, with heavy thmider, set in,
and detained us, not altogether unwillingly, as it
was not easy for us to tear ourselves away from his
c 2
20 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [guap. ii.
hospitable mansion. Still, as the " Forerunner " was
to be off by ten o'clock, we had no particular wish
to run the risk of losing our passage. It was long
after eight before we could venture out, and on
reaching the beach we found all the canoemen either
drunk or else unwilling to take us off. At length
the master of an American vessel persuaded, or almost
forced, some natives in his employ to make the
attempt. We were accordingly seated in a small
canoe, and five men, waiting for a favourable moment,
launched us through the surf and paddled off. Our
vessel was about two miles ofij and we had to go
against a head sea; but at length, at the expense of
a sound ducking, got alongside, just as they were
beginning to despair of seeing us. Half-an-hour
afterwards we were under steam for Akra, at which
place we anchored next morning, and where we first
heard the sad tidings of the death of Mr. Beecroft,
which melancholy event had taken place about ten
days previously. Mr. Beecroft's health since his
nomination as leader of the expedition had been very
indiff'erent, and had latterly failed so rapidly and to
such an extent, that he determined at once to proceed
to England. The packet was at Fernando Po ; his
berth was secured, and all other preparations made,
but unfortunately it was too late ; his once ii'on frame
sunk under the combined inroads of climate and of
disease, and he yielded up the vital spark in the land
of his adoption.
With a favoiu-able current and a fair wind we soon
CHAP. IT.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 21
reached Lagos, off whicli we lay rolling for twenty-four
hours. Along the west coast of Africa a heavy swell con-
tinues throughout the year, but during the rainy season
it is particularly tumultuous. This it is which,
breaking on the shores, constitutes the dreadful surf,
and which also renders the bars of the rivers so dan-
gerous. In no place is this perpetual roll more felt
than in the Bight of Benin, and off Badagry and
Lagos apparently reaches its climax. At Lagos too the
bar is a shifting one, and is unusually dangerous, so
that accidents often occur, and from the immense
numbers of sharks constantly present, those who escape
the fury of the waves only meet with a more dreadful
end. Shortly before my return visit to this place, a
canoe with sixteen men was upset, not one of whom,
although all were practised swimmers, ever reached the
shore. Curiously enough about the same time a
boat belonging to H. M. S. " Crane " was also upset.
The crew were fortunate enough to get on the bottom
of the boat, and the officer in charge took it into his
head to swim ashore, a most fool-hardy attempt, yet
strange to relate, he was allowed to land in safety.
Shipping or discharging cargoes is here a most tedious
business. The Fantis, who from Cape Coast Castle
to Lagos are always employed as the canoemen,
cannot venture to bring off at one time more than two
puncheons of palm oil, which is the staple commodity.
Arrived alongside, a suitable moment must be watched
for slinging the cask, when the canoe is on the top
of a roller, and then it must be hoisted away on board
23 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
at once, and similar or even more precaution must
be used in lowering cargo into the canoe. For the
information of those who have never seen canoes, I
may mention that in them positions are completely the
reverse of what they are in boats. The crew sit with
their faces forw^ard, and passengers are placed in the
bow. Hence in going against a sea, or in crossing a
bar, they are the principal recipients of donations of
spray or of tops of waves, or other such moist
delicacies. Occasionally canoes are fitted up for
passengers, by being covered in forwards, but as a
general rule every person either landing or embarking
along this coast must make up his mind for a sound
wetting, and further calculate on an upset every tenth
or twelfth time. Landing through a surf is to a novice
rather unpleasant. On approaching the shore, the
canoe is kept stationary at the back of the breakers,
until a favoiu'able opportunity presents itself. The
steersman, who is in charge, stands watching with
practised eye roller after roller, until a kind of lull
appears to be setting in, while the crew, anxiously
regarding their chief, no sooner hear his wild cry,
than dashing their paddles into the water, with a few
strokes they reach the shore. The moment the
bottom of the canoe touches the ground, they all leap
overboard, and seizing her sides, instantly drag her
safely high and dry, and so expert are they that acci-
dents but rarely occur. On board the " Forerunner,"
ever since we left Plymouth, a solitary rat had been an
eyesore to the captain's dog, which had an inveterate
CHAP. 11.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 23
prejudice against the whole race of vermin : day after
day had this unfortunate been persecuted, followed
from shelter to shelter, and forced to resort to new
hiding-places. In an evil hour for itself this
wretched rat left the comparatively secure abyss of
the hold, and appeared on deck. Its determined
enemy, ever on the watch, soon discovered this move-
ment, and made a desperate run at it. The only
place of retreat near was a scupper-hole, into which
the rat speedily bolted, but with such impetus, th,
it soon popped out at the other end and di'oppect
overboard. It swam bravely, but a strong current
carried it astern, where its struggles were quickly
ended by the appearance on the stage of a large
shark, which composedly swallowed it ; seemingly as
a mere whet to the appetite. At Lagos we were joined
by the Rev. Mr. Crowther, who had come from
Abbeoktita to join the expedition. Mr. Crowther
was up the Kwora in H. M. S. " Soudan," in 1841,
and since that time has been one of the principal
means of introducing into the Yoruba territory, his
native land, a successful missionary establishment ;
one which has already been most fruitful in good
results, and which promises to play a very important
part in christianising this portion of Africa.
From Lagos the usual route for the mail steamers
is to cross directly to Fernando Po, but on this
occasion, to give the " Pleiad " more time to reach
that island, Captain Barnwell determined first to visit
Bonny, and the other rivers in the Bight of Biafra.
24 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap ii.
We, therefore, after rounding Cape Formoso, steered
along shore, and steaming through the discoloured
water, which, especially off the Nun, extends several
miles out to sea, passed in succession the Nun, the
St. John's or Brass, the San Nicholas, the Santa
Barbara, the San Bartolomeo, and the Sombreiro, all
mouths of the Kwora, and by sunset were off the
New Kalabar. As there was not time to reach the
anchorage at Bonny before dark, we pushed on for
Old Kalabar, and crossing the bar early next morning
reached Duke Town by midday. Our stay here
was very short, but I got on shore, and visited the
Presbyterian Mission House, prettily situated on a
rising ground to the southward of the town, where I
made the acquaintance of the Rev. W. Anderson.
Prom this spot there is a fine view of the neighboiKing
region. Immediately below is Duke Town, with the
shipping lying off it. A little farther up is Old
TowTLi ; while across the river, and at a distance of
six or seven miles, is Creek Town, the residence of
the principal native traders. On our departure, we
were accompanied by the Rev. W. C. Thomson,* who
was leaving for England. Those only who have
themselves experienced the enervating influence of
such a spot as Old Kalabar, can at all appreciate the
sensation of pleasure with which he hailed the
approach of the refreshing sea-breeze, the first time
* I have especially to thank this gentleman for a kind donation of ento-
mological specimens from Old Kalabar, which, besides their intrinsic value,
will prove of great assistance when I come to examine my own collection
of insects.
CHAP. 11.] THE VOYAGE OUT, 25
he had felt it for three years. It must indeed be a
high sense of duty which can induce men to remain
so long in such a depressing climate, and the sickly
atmosphere of the swampy creeks of a tropical river.
The distance from the sea to Duke Town has been
variously estimated at from forty-five to sixty miles ;
the latter being that calculated from the latitude given
in Beecroft and King's Chart of the Cross River.
It is surprising that, although this distance is
annually traversed by vessels of large bm'den, and
with most valuable cargoes, no detailed survey of
this river has been made, nor is there at present a
reliable chart. Yet the channel is tortuous, sand-
banks are numerous, and there is a dangerous bar
at the mouth. As an instance of the value of British
property at stake, I saw in the river a vessel of nearly
2500 tons' burden. AVhen filled with palm oil, her
cargo alone would be worth upwards of £100,000;
which must run no little risk while being carried
along this unexamined river. The only guide of any
worth is a little book of directions, printed at the
Missionary Press, and compiled by Captain Lewis,
who knows the pilotage better than any man living.
This, which to any one who has been once there, is
most serviceable, from the want of a chart, is com-
paratively valueless to a person visiting the place for
the first time.
The following morning we had a fine view of the
high land of Fernando Po, and also, as the day pro-
gressed, of the lofty Camaroons mountain. This,
26 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
supposed to have been the Currus Beorum of Hanno,
raises its volcanic head to more than 13,000 feet above
the sea ; whence it descends abruptly to the very-
edge of the water. Near its base, on the one side,
the Rio del Rey and a smaller nameless stream enter
the sea, whilst on its other are the outlets of the
great Camaroons river. The next day while steaming
down this river under the mountain, we were over-
taken by a violent tornado. The rain descended in
torrents, while the thunder reverberated in awful
solemnity from the rugged chasms and frightful
precipices above us. About four in the afternoon
we reached Fernando Po, and rounding Point William
were soon snugly at anchor in Clarence Cove. To
our great disappointment, however, the " Pleiad " had
not arrived, nor were there any tidings of her.
H.M.S. " Crane," which was cruizing off the island,
followed us in, and her commanding officer. Captain
Thomas Miller, then senior naval officer in the
" Bights," desirous of being able to transmit home
tidings of the expedition, sent a requisition to the
Admiralty agent in charge of the mails to detain the
packet until Wednesday, hoping that by that time the
lost " Pleiad " might turn up.
The passage from Plymouth to Fernando Po, in-
cluding calls at Old Kalabar and the Camaroons, was
thus easily accomplished in thirty-two days. The
" Forerunner," though not a very comfortable vessel,
was very quick ; and, under the able management of
Captain Barnwell, could do almost anything. It
CHAP. II.] THE VOYAGE OUT. 27
was quite a pleasure to witness the neat way in which
he handled her, especially in the intricate passages at
the mouths of the rivers, up which too he was his
own pilot.
At Clarence I found that the sad news of Mr.
Beecroft's death, to which I have already alluded, was
too true. From our anchorage we could see his
lonely grave under a wide-spreading silk-cotton tree,
on Point William ; and, throughout the town, many
a heart was still grieving over the loss of their kind-
hearted protector and friend. On examining the
Admiralty instructions, I found that no actual pro-
vision had been made in the event of the decease of
Mr. Beecroft, but being next to him in seniority, I
resolved to continue the expedition, as I considered
that, the preparations being so far advanced, and
results of no little importance being expected, it would
be wrong not to make the attempt. In this I was con-
firmed by the opinions of Captain Miller and of the
acting Governor and British Consul, Mr. Lynslager,
who both took a similar view of the case. I quite
understood the responsibility I was undertaking, and
felt fully that the expedition would start under very
different auspices under the direction of such a junior
officer as myself, new, moreover, to the chmate and
the country, from what it would have done if guided
by the experienced judgment of the late governor.
My anxiety on these points was greatly lessened by
the volunteer offer of Mr. D. J. May, second master
of the " Crane," who was most desu'ous of accom-
28 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. it.
panying me. The consent of Captain Miller was
cheerfully given, and in Mr. May I had, from that
day, a most willing and able coadjutor. His name
will frequently occur in the following pages, and I
take this opportunity of publicly thanking him for
the great assistance he rendered to the expedition.
On the evening of Tuesday, the 27th of June, while
sitting in Governor Lynslager's, a report was brought
that a vessel in the offing was making signals. We
all rushed out, and speedily saw her rockets and blue-
lights, which were immediately answered, and a
bright light was hoisted to guide her to the proper
anchorage. By our night-glasses we could see that
she was a steamer, and in another hour found, to our
great delight, that it was the " Pleiad," a delay on
the Kru coast having thus detained her. This news
we were enabled to send home next day by the " Fore-
runner," which also carried away the sailing-master,
who had navigated the ship from England, and those
of the crew who were only engaged for the passage
out. I also felt it my duty to invalid and send home
Dr. William Bleek, who had been appointed ethno-
logist to the expedition, his health being evidently
unsuited for a tropical African climate, especially as it
had already considerably suffered. This gentleman
was, as might have been expected, much disappointed,
and left us with great reluctance, though on calm
consideration motives of prudence prevailed.
The next' business was to prepare the "Pleiad,"
and to ship stores and coals, with which duties I had
CHAP.II.J THE VOYAGE OUT. 29
nothing directly to do, they being under the manage-
ment of the proper oificers of the " Pleiad." It will
save future explanation if I here mention that, even
at this early period, I could see that the sailing-
master, Mr. T. C. Taylor, was not adapted for the
work. Whatever his capabilities in other spheres
might have been, he appeared to be greatly deficient
in the energy, decision, and administrative qualities
requisite for the position he occupied. Things went
on in an irregular manner, stores were confusedly
hurried about, and nothing seemed to progress.
Seeing this, and being desirous to advance our prepa-
rations as much as possible. Captain Miller remained
at anchor, and daily sent a party from the " Crane "
to assist us. Had it not been for his kindness, matters
would have become very complicated, and would have
been still more protracted. One gentleman, who
had intended to accompany the " Pleiad," as a
supercargo, being unable to agree with Mr. Taylor,
left us at Clarence, intending to return to England.
Our preparations at last drew to a close ; coals
had been shipped, and two large iron trade canoes
had been put together and brought alongside. The
government party now consisted of myself and Mr.
May, my assistant, and a black servant, and also
Mr. Richards, whom I had engaged as interpreter,
he having accompanied Mr. Beecroft in this capacity
on several occasions, and Simon Jonas, an Igbo, who
had been with the expedition in 1841 ; there were
also Mr. Crowther and his servant, and the ship's
30 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii.
complement comprised a sailing-master, three mates,
a surgeon, three engineers, one supercargo, a steward,
three black firemen, three interpreters, a cooper, a
carpenter, four colom'ed seamen and two boys, and
thirty -three Krumen ; in all, twelve Eui'opeans, and
fifty-three persons of colour.
CHAPTER III.
THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION.
The " Crane " sailed on the 7tli of July, and the
next afternoon we also made ready for a start,
, Julys.
and finally took our departure from Clarence
about eight o'clock in the evening. Although there
appeared to be a good sea running, the sailing-master
persisted in keeping both of the iron canoes deeply
laden with coal. But no sooner had we got a little
beyond Cape BuUen, than we found such a sea running
that the canoes were nearly swamped, and we had im-
mediately to lighten them, which was accomplished
with some trouble. We towed them at first, one on
each quarter, but finding that they steered very badly,
passed them both astern. The next day a very nasty
cross sea ran, and we rolled very uneasily, and
shipped one or two heavy seas. Sails would now have
been a great boon, as they would have steadied us
much ; but they had been carefully stowed away in
some storehouse at Clarence. About noon something
went wrong with one of the safety-valves, which
obliged us to draw the fires, and this caused us to
lose about fom' hom's, during which time we were
32 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. in.
drifting bodily to leeward ; . and this, added to the
strong current, drove us so far to the eastward, that
the first land we made was near the Andoney river.
All Monday and Tuesday we kept going slowly
along shore, progressing at the rate of about two
knots. About sunset on the latter day we were
off the river Brass, and here the master anchored
all night, for fear, as he said, of missing the Nun ;
consequently, it was not until nine or ten o'clock
on the 12th, that we were off the bar. The
weather was rather gloomy, and as we rolled about
with the heavy swell, the only visible indication
of the river was a long break in the dark green
mangroves, which here universally hne the coast.
Mr. Richards undertook to pilot us in, for which
purpose he stationed himself right in the bows,
watching with practised eye for the proper channel.
The time selected was about a quarter flood, and
everything being ready, he took us across by a line a
little to the westward of that indicated in Captain
Denham's chart. The sea, which was very heavy,
was right aft, but, though very deep, we hardly
shipped a drop of water. The roughest part of the
bar is about three miles from the land, and here
our soundings shoaled to two-and-a-quarter fathoms.
When in the very middle of the breakers, the tow-
rope of the sternmost canoe gave way, and there she
was left at the mercy of the waves. To turn was for
us nearly impossible ; so nothing was left but to trust
to her being carried in by the sea and the tide.
CHAP. Ill] THE LAUNCH OP THE EXPEDITION. 33
Many an anxious eye was turned towards her ; but
she seemed buoyant and easy, while the Kru-boys on
board of her plied vigorously at their paddles. A
few minutes more brought her into smooth water,
and then all fears for her safety vanished.
•^ July 12.
We passed Palm Point about half-past two,
and shortly afterwards anchored in six fathom water,
under Alburkah Island, in a spot fully exposed to
the influences of the sea-breeze, which at that season
blows night and day.
The engine requiring some repairs, it was deter-
mined to efiect them here before proceeding further.
Mr. May and I went in the gig to examine the
channel to the westward of Alburkah Island, and
found deep water — from five to six fathoms — close
along the west shore. This occupied us until dark,
after which we re-examined our instruments, got the
barometers freely suspended, compared them, and
saw everything in readiness for future operations.
The ship swung to the ebb at half-past eight, and in
another hour the cm-rent was running past like a
mill- sluice, being at the rate of five knots and a half.
Next day Mr. May and I landed at Baracoon Point
to get some bearings. Some natives appeared at a
distance, but were very timid, and on our approach-
ing towards them went and hid in the bush. I
collected a few botanical and zoological specimens ;
among the latter a fine bat, a species of Epomophorus.
We had intended visiting Akassa, from which we were
distant about four miles, but were prevented by
34 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
heavy rain, which drove us on board. In the after-
noon we pulled further up the western channel,
carrying deep water all along close to the shore.
We returned by Alburkah Island, or rather the
Alburkah Islands, as this appears to be a group
of swampy islets, intersected with creeks. Seeing
a httle village, we landed, but the inhabitants,
alarmed, had completely evacuated the place, leaving
it quite at our mercy. My boat's crew of Kru-
men were rather desirous of exercising the pri-
vileges of conquerors, and of picking up some
plunder, but this we at once checked. There was
not much left for them, except some large heaps of
palm-nuts, which lay in heaps, all in readiness for
boiling for the oil. From a heap of bones which was
looked on as dju-dju or sacred, I selected the skull of
a Manatus,^ in fair condition. Being now fairly in
the river, we commenced giving, morning and
evening, to all the Europeans on board, two-thii'ds of
a glass of quinine wine, which contained about five
grains of quinine, believing that this would act as a
prophylactic or preventive, while exposed — as every
one must be while in the Delta — to the influence of
malaria. The following morning a canoe came along-
side, in which were two Abo men. They did not
give us much information, but told us that the
inhabitants in this neighbourhood were afraid of us,
as they thought we had come with warlike intentions.
About nine o'clock Mr. May and I started off to
* Most probably Manaius Senegalensis.
CHAP, in.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 35
continue our examination of the western channel.
Deep water, sometimes as much as from six to eight
fathoms, was constantly found. We kept as nearly
as possible in the course of the main stream, but
branches and junctions were so frequent, as greatly
to perplex us. The breadth of the creeks varied
from 100 to 300 or 400 yards; and the du-ection
was from N.W. to E.N.E. by compass.
Nothing could be more gloomy than these dreary
streams, enclosed between dense lines of sombre
mangroves, forty, fifty, or even sixty feet in height.
The only thing left to our sight was a narrow strip of
sky overhead. No dry land was visible, not a canoe
nor a native was encountered, and the only sign of
life was when here and there a solitary king-fisher,
startled by such an unwonted appearance, fled lazily
from its retreat, but ere a gun could be even pointed at
it, again disappeared amid the dark-green foliage. We
at length found ourselves in a creek running west and
south-west, which we conjectured to be connected
with the Sengana branch ; but as the afternoon was
far advanced, we were obliged to turn. One place so
resembled another, that we had some difficulty in
retracing our steps, but coming upon an opening
leading due south, we entered it, believing that it
would prove a shorter route. Its turnings and wind-
ings were innumerable, so that our boat's crew became
first dissatisfied, and at last timid ; but we persisted,
though there was a fair prospect of our having to spend
the night in these mosquito preserves. We came
D 2
36 NAKBATIVE OF AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
to one very shallow spot, across which we had to wade
and drag the boat ; but after this we began to
recognise some objects, and by dark we reached the
ship, having been in the boat nine hours, and pulled
over some five-and-twenty miles. We found to our
great satisfaction that the repairs of the engine were
completed, so preparations were made for an early
start in the morning.
We were under steam by daylight, but at the
entrance of Louis's Creek grounded, and there
July 15. _
not being water enough here to allow us to
enter, Mr. Richards went in the gig to look for another
passage, and after a little trouble found one, by which
he took us. This we named after him, " Richards's
Creek ; " it is rather longer and narrower than Louis's
Creek, with which it is parallel. This passed, we were
soon in the main river, and under Mr. Richards's
pilotage, and with the leads constantly going, got on
very fairly. Li an ascent of this kind the pilot sits
right in the bows, directing the man at the helm by
his hand. One leadsman was stationed in the fore-
chains, and another, the most important one, in the
dingy, which was slung under the bowsprit. Man-
groves were becoming scarce, palms increasing
in number and in size, and though no huts were
seen, still in recent clearances along the banks were
little plantations of bananas and plantains. Every
one was in high spirits at our progress, little dreaming
that a sudden check was in store for us. About
eleven o'clock a small islet appeared in mid-channel.
CHAP. III.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 37
right ahead of us. The pilot wished to pass to the
westward, but before the master could make up his
mind which com'se to follow, the " Pleiad " was
allowed to run right stem on. The mate ran to get
a kedge carried out at once, but was ordered not to
hurry himself, although we were still within the
influence of the tides, and it was just about the top
of high water. Some feeble and badly planned efforts
were made to get off" during the early part of the
afternoon, but, as might have been anticipated, they
were ineff'ectual. ]\Ir. May and I went in the gig and
measured by triangulation the breadth of the river,
which does not exceed 200 yards. Next morning
I expected that by daylight at the furthest, fresh
exertions would be made to float, but the master did
not make his appearance on deck till after seven. I
asked him what he intended doing, and on being
answered that he did not approve of working on
Sunday, or, as he called it, Sabbath, remonstrated
with him in strong terms. This roused him a little,
and he gave some fresh orders. About ten o'clock,
almost entuely by the energy and skill of the chief
mate, we were once more afloat, but by the master's
direction we dropped a little way down and anchored
close to the bush, and in this unhealthy spot
we remained until next morning. The islet
on which we stuck, was, we found, " Sunday Island ;"
very appropriately named. Immediately above it on
the western side is a small creek, by which canoes
come from Wari.
38 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
This place once passed the river began gradually
to grow wider, and regular banks to appear. Isolated
huts of a more substantial appearance than the rude
shelters near the mouth indicated that we were
now entering the domains of human beings, and
Mr. Crowther remarked the great difference between
the present occasion and his visit in 1841. Then the
banks were densely wooded to the very water's edge,
but now there were strips of land along the margins
cleared and planted ; while small villages and other
signs of life showed themselves where all formerly was
desolate and uninhabited, and the very people seemed
less timid and better clad. As we passed along,
numbers of anxious spectators from time to time
showed themselves. Among one group we saw a
woman suckling her child, who was large enough
to be standing beside her. Occasionally we saw
natives of a bright copper colour, and I remarked
some children with artificial white marks down the
forehead, branching off along each cheek. In all these
small villages was abundance of fowls and of dogs,
and in the neighbourhood were cultivated rice,
bananas, plantains, cocos, and sugar-cane. We passed
some trading canoes laden with palm-oil, each of
which carried a carronade in their bows. Occasionally
one or two canoes would come alongside, offering
fowls for sale, which we readily purchased for empty
bottles or trinkets. Seeing a rather large village on
the right bank, I stopped and tried to induce the
people to come off to us, but they seemed afraid, and
CHAP. III.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 39
we had not time to spare to go ashore to them.
Some large canoes were there, flying showy flags, on
some of which were the letters K.B., probably for
King Burrow, one of the lower Delta potentates.
About noon we passed the Bassa Creek, and about
two o'clock reached a very extensive village on the
left bank, off which we delayed for a little. Plenty
of canoes came off, by which means we learnt that it
was Angiama, being the place where poor Lander
received his mortal wound. Among others the chief
came alongside, to whom I gave a looking-glass and
a red worsted nightcap, which greatly pleased him. I
explained to him that we were desirous of hurrying
on now, but hoped to pay him a longer visit on our
return, when, if they had any articles for trade, we
should be happy to deal with them. Diverging
branches were numerous, and we passed also one
converging one ; namely, the O'gubori Channel,
examined by Captain W. Allen in 1841. Towards
dark we passed another large village on the left bank,
and shortly afterwards anchored nearly in mid-channel,
having made a very satisfactory day's work.
Morning showed that we were at anchor under a
pretty island covered with luxuriant vegetation,
^ "^ . & ' July 18.
which was fantastically styled " Tuesday
Island." The weather was unpropitious, the sky being
lowering and dark with frequent showers. During the
forenoon we reached a creek, coming from the N.N.E.,
up which the master insisted on going, saying it was
the main stream, although the natives on the banks
40 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
pointed in the other direction. No current was per-
ceptible, and the surface of the water was green with
floating aquatic plants. Notwithstanding we went up
nearly a mile, until it became so narrow that the
" Pleiad " could scarcely turn, and in doing so got
partly entangled among overhanging branches. This
place was accordingly named after its explorer,
" Taylor's Creek." As time pressed, we held only
temporary communication with the more important
villages. Just above Truro Island, by foolishly keeping
too close under a point, we grounded and remained
firmly fixed for nearly twenty-fom' hours, when the
ship was at length started by the combined action
of a kedge laid out right astern, and a Sampson-post
over our bow. On a large sandbank near I found
foot-prints resembling those of a hippopotamus ; these
I traced to some thick bush, where the animal had
probably been feeding.
From the mouth of the river up to this point, the
country on either side is named Oru. The people
are of the same tribe as those who inhabit the tract
of country up to the Rio Eormoso, where however
they are called Ejo or Ojo, by which name also they
are known at Abo, at Brass, and even at Bonny.
By English palm-oil traders they are often termed
Jo-men. Throughout all this district but one language
is spoken, with but very little dialectal difference.
There is no one king or chief, but every village has
its own headman. The people are a wild, rude, and
treacherous race, savage, and often unprepossessing in
CHAP. III.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 41
look. Both male and female are much tattooed over
the chest and arms, while the particular mark of the
tribe is a thick, straight cut down the centre of the fore-
head and nose, and generally also three lines extend-
ing diagonally across the cheek from the inner angle of
the eye. The one down the forehead, which is very
prominent, and gives a peculiar and unpleasant ex-
pression to the countenance, is performed in child-
hood by making a deep incision with a razor, and
then rubbing in palm oil, and the resulting cicatrix
is hard, projecting, and blue-coloured. Almost all
wear clothes of European manufacture, striped and
coloured calicoes being principally in vogue. Among
the men, glazed hats, Guernsey frocks, and even
monkey jackets are occasionally to be seen. Along the
Kwora they exact a tribute from all canoes, belonging
to other tribes, passing either up or down, which is a
very fertile source of disputes, and even of bloodshed.
Their principal trade is now in palm oil, which they
dispose of either to Rio Formoso or to Brass traders.
Across the mouth of the Wari branch, a large
island seems to be gradually forming. In Allen's
original chart there is here marked a bank covered
with water; subsequently, in 1841, vegetation was
seen over the spot,* and now it is an island several
feet above the water, and covered with tall grass.
This is the branch which was examined by Mr.
Beecroft, in the " iEthiope," in 1840, and by which
I'gbo traders communicate with those of AVari and
* Allen and Thomson's Narrative, vol. i. p. 198.
42 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. in.
of Bini, and with the Rio Tormoso ; it appears also
to be on that side of the river the line of separation
between the Orii and the Tgbo countries.
From this point up to Abo nothing remarkable
occurred ; the weather kept gloomy and wet, until
we anchored off the latter place on the afternoon of
the 21st of July. Some canoes came and took a
look at us ; but, though they paddled close to us, we
could not prevail on the people to come on board.
At length a large canoe appeared, which brought two
messengers to Avelcome us, and to ascertain our in-
tentions, as it subsequently appeared that an idea
was entertained that our visit was in some way con-
nected with Mr. Carr's mysterious disappearance.
One of the messengers recognised Mr. Richards as an
old acquaintance, which inspired them with more con-
fidence. This man, whose name was Aliheli, a Hausa
by birth, was given by King Obi to Lander in 1832,
and accompanied him to Fernando Po. He could
speak a little English, and as he joined our ship and
made himself exceedingly useful, his name will
frequently recur. They commenced the " palaver " by
drinking a glass of wine with us, a few drops of
which they, before tasting it, poured on the deck as
dju-dju, or sacred. From them we learnt that King
Obi had been dead for nearly nine years, and that
since that time there had been no regular king. At
Abo, the chief power is elective, and after the death
of Obi two parties sprung up, one of which supported
the claims of his son, while the other advanced as
CHAP, in.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 43
their candidate an influential person named Orisa.
The two sections were respectively entitled the king's
people and the Oshiodapara party. Obi's friends
were unanimous in their selection of Obi's second
son, named Aje, an active, intelligent, young man ;
and this was acquiesced in by his less energetic and
more peaceful brother Okurobi or Tshukuma. The
factions had never come to blows, and of late there had
been a very general feeling in favour of Aje ; but before
he could be finally elected, he was expected to pay
several rather heavy sums, which he was now gradually
settling. In the mean time, although he took the lead
in all foreign or warlike affairs, law and justice were
dispensed by a neutral individual not immediately
connected with either side. At this moment Aje was
absent, having gone to settle some dispute at Igara ;
but Tshukuma, as his deputy, had sent Aliheli to
receive us. We promised to come on shore the next
morning and pay our respects. I accordingly made
an early start, and, accompanied by Mr. May, Mr.
Crowther, and Dr. Hutchinson, proceeded in the gig
and pinnace, the crews of which were dressed in
flaming red caps and shirts. Abo is situated nearly
a mile up a creek, the mouth of which is almost
invisiljle from even a very short distance. On
entering it we found it, at first, so extremely narrow,
that we had to lay in our oars and to use paddles ;
but, after a time, it opened into a wide expanse, the
surface of which was covered with canoes of various
sizes. Numbers of inhabitants were to be seen gazing
44 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
at us, and altogether there was more bustle and activity,
and more signs of a trading people than anything we
had previously witnessed. Having reached the landing-
place we marched in a kind of procession, headed by
a Kru-man, carrying the English ensign, and accom-
panied by a royal messenger bearing a gaudy flag.
We had some little difficulty in keeping good order
through the narrow lanes, densely crowded as they
were by the populace ; as natives, both men and
women, were constantly coming towards us, and
insisting on shaking hands with us, which ceremony
is here performed by the two parties taking loose
hold of the fingers of each other's right hands, and
then slipping them, making, at the same instant, a
snapping noise with the aid of the thumb. We were
not sorry to reach Tshukuma's palace, a low dwelling
of mud and loose thatch, with a small court, some
twenty feet square, in the centre. This was sur-
rounded by a kind of verandah, in which we were
placed, a chair being brought for me, and mats for
the remainder of the company. Near us was a
fetish, composed of some old bones and a few trinkets,
and close to this, under a canopy of white calico,
was a large mat for his Royal Highness. Presently
he entered, accompanied by several of his wives, and
other female relatives, who all sat on his left. He
seemed a little oldish-looking man of easy disposition,
and not much intellect. He was attired in a woollen
nightcap, a white shirt, and in home-built pantaloons
of native cloth, shaped after an extreme Dutch design.
CHAP. III.] THE LAUNCH OP THE EXPEDITION". 45
The court was by this time completely filled with crowds
of natives, whose incessant noise and chattering pre-
vented us from commencing, and at last I had to request
him to enforce silence. This he attempted to do, in
vain, until at last, assisted by the more energetic of his
spouses, and in particular by a strong-minded sister,
whose shrill tones, heard high above the din, finally
beat down all opposition, and produced a temporary
calm. I seized the moment, and, by our interpreter,
told Tshukuma, that we had come to make his
acquaintance and his friendship, and to ascertain
if the people were willing to trade with us.
I expressed our sorrow at hearing of the death
of Obi, who had been the white man's friend, also
our regret at the absence of his brother. I said that
we were desirous of fulfilling the promises made by
the officers in the former expedition, and that we
should try to do good to his country. He replied
by declaring his satisfaction at seeing white men
here once more, thanking us for our compliments,
and off'ering, if we could wait a few days, to send a
special canoe for his brother. I told him that we
had a long distance to go, and that we must proceed
while there was plenty of water in the river, but
that on our return we should again call. He then
proceeded to say, that King Obi being dead, the
former treaty expired with him ; but that before his
decease his father had particularly enjoined on his
sons always to be friends with white men ; and that
he and his people would gladly attend to that
46 NAKRATIYE OF AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
bequest. He added, however, that whenever he saw
us coming regularly to trade, he would then, but not
till then, believe us, as Captain Trotter had faithfully
promised again to visit them, but had not done so,
I explained to him that this was owing chiefly to the
great sickness which had then occurred ; and partly,
also, that when Mr. Carr was returning, he had been
murdered by some bad people. I said that we were
anxious to open up the trade of this great river for
the benefit of every one, and asked him if ever a boat
with a few w^hite men in it passed along, he would
order Abo canoes not to molest them ? to which he
replied, that should there be but one white man in
it he would take care of him. During this discussion
the women were extremely enthusiastic in their good
wishes, which I considered a favourable sign. Dr.
Hutchinson had then some special conversation on
commercial topics, after which Mr. Crowther asked
Tshukuma whether he would like to have teachers
placed among them, to teach their children to " read
book," and to instruct them in what was good and
useful, to which the answer was a universal shout
of assent. He then proceeded to describe to them
what had taken place in Yoruba, his native land, in
which but a few years ago was nothing but warfare
and bloodshed, while now they were cultivating
peaceful arts. Tshukuma replied that he only wished
to see the day when this would take place in Abo,
but that he much feared it would never come to pass.
Nevertheless, if teachers came, ground would be
CHAP, in.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 47
specially set part for them to have a house built
upon. Our iuterview was concluded by my inviting
Tshukuma to pay us a visit on board, after which we
walked through the town, followed by admiring
crowds, and visited Aje's palace, which is more
extensive than his brother's, and in better condition,
and then we returned on board. Yams, bananas,
sweet potatoes, coco-nuts, fowls, goats, and fish
were freely brought off for sale, and were readily
bartered for bottles, brass snuff-boxes, and handker-
chiefs. As specimens of the manufacture of the
place, I pmxhased some substantial nets, some thread,
grass mats, and brass ornaments. About noon we
had a visit from Tshukuma, who brought with him
his head-wife named Ajeibo, his half-sister Adem,
and one of Aje's wives, named O'nna. After showing
him round the ship, we asked him and his party
below to lunch with us. A large meat-pie was on
the table, which I divided among all present, tasting,
according to custom, a little bit from each of the
plates before offering them to our guests,* I then
gave Tshukuma, as a dash or present, a sabre in a
brass scabbard, some red baize, and some pieces of
showily-coloured calicoes ; and gratified the ladies by
presenting each with a looking-glass and some
needles. After their departure, Mr. May and I
crossed the river to the opposite shore for the
* This has been rendered customary by attempts at poisoning having
been extremely frequent. A slave always tastes a cup before presenting
it to his master.
48 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. hi.
purpose of getting a set of sights ; but no sooner had
we landed, and begun to arrange our instruments,
than a band of natives, variously armed with muskets,
spears, and swords, came upon us in a half-threaten-
ing, half-alarmed manner. Mr. May and myself,
laying down everything, advanced towards them,
making signs of peace and friendship; but on seeing
us come near them they retreated, still keeping their
muskets pointed at us. At last we induced them
to stand, and, with a little more persuasion, to shake
hands, which ceremony being effected, both parties
had a hearty laugh. They watched us adjusting the
sextant and artificial horizon with much surprise, and
were greatly amazed at hearing the ticking of a
pocket chronometer. I collected some plants and
insects; .among the latter a showy Cicindela, with
very sharp mandibles, and some homopterous speci-
mens. Next morning Mr. May and I landed at the
mouth of the creek, and were successful in getting a
good set of sights. About mid-day, after church,
some canoes were seen approaching, in one of which
a drum was heard constantly beating. This we
discovered to contain Tshukuma, with a large retinue,
come in grand state to pay his regular retm'n visit.
To-day he was dressed in an engineer's scarlet uni-
form coat, a pair of duck trousers, and a purple
beaver hat ; he held in his hand the sword I had
presented to him, and round his neck were suspended
two small medals given him by Captain Trotter.
He brought for us as a present, a bullock, a goat,
CHAP. III.] THE LAUNCH OF THE EXPEDITION. 49
and 200 yams. Our visitors, who remained on
board nearly three hom's, were on the whole very
orderly. One custom peculiar to this district is, that
all women who can afford it, wear ponderous ivory
anklets, made from the thickest parts of large tusks.
These are so very weighty as to give a strange cha-
racter to the gait, and a peculiar dragging motion
to the leg. They must be put on at first with great
pain and difficulty, and when once adopted, are never
parted with — not even at death — so that their owners
are buried with them. This creates a great demand
in the place for ivory, and causes extravagant sums
to be demanded for these cumbrous ornaments. I
had intended purchasing some, but declined doing
so when I found the market value of a pair to be
equal to the price of three slaves. Mr. Crowther
and myself being desu'ous of leaving Simon Jonas
here until our return, that he might better learn the
temper and habits of the people, we mentioned our
wish to Tshukuma, who at once undertook to look
after him. In the afternoon Mr. May and I crossed
to the place where we had landed the day previ-
ously, and meeting some of the people who had then
been so alarmed, went with them to their little
village, which is named Odagbe, where they received
us in a very friendly way, presenting us with Gura *
nuts. During om' walk I found several insects,
* Gxira or Kola nuts, the fruit of the Cola (Sterculia) acuminata ; vide
" Flora Nigritiana," p. 233. These are in great demand throughout Central
Africa, and are presented to strangers as a mark of esteem and of
friendship.
50 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. m.
myriapods, and shells, one of the latter being a
species of Achatina, which I discovered on the
leaves and stems of yams.
Abo, the Eboe or Ibu of Lander and of Allen, is
the name of a town and also of a district extending
along both sides of the river, from the Oru country
towards Igara. It forms one of the sections of the Great
I'gbo (Ibo) territory ; and though by no means the
largest, is, from its position along the Kwora, one of
the most important. The sovereignty, since the
death of Obi, having, as I have mentioned, been
partly in abeyance, many towns which were under
his rule have ceased to pay tribute, and have become
independent. The dialect spoken along this tract is
called also Abo, and it is readily understood over the
whole of I'gbo ; but to this I shall afterwards refer in
speaking of the peculiar customs and rites of this
region.
CHAPTER IV.
IGBO AND IGARA.
We left Abo on the 24tli of July, encounter-
ing just after we had started a number of large canoes
returning from some of the markets in the upper
part of the river. Although the current ran strong,
and there was plenty of water, the " Pleiad" was kept
all day at very reduced speed, and consequently
made very little progress. Crowded villages were
numerous on both sides, indicating an extensive
population. In the afternoon we grounded on a
sandbank, but easily got off ; after which Mr. Richards
started to examine the eastern, and Mr. May and I
the western passage along Bullock Island. The
former was the preferable one, and by it we ascended
next day, passing on the left bank a very extensive
town, named Ossamar^ or Oshimare, which means
" town on the great water ;" most probably altered
from Oshimini or Osimini, the Abo name for the
Kwora, and which signifies " great water." Among a
group of islands opposite A'kra-Atani, we first saw a
small herd of hippopotami, which, however, not liking
our looks, soon made themselves scarce. Heavy
E 2
52 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
showers were of frequent occurrence, and the river
was slowly rising ; but we were informed by the natives
that it was still very low. The country now became
more open, more cultivation w^as visible, and high
land appeared to the northward along both sides of
the river. The banks had been hitherto entirely
alluvial, but above A'kra-Atani, we first saw, partially
embedded in clay on the eastern side, some semi-
volcanic blocks. On the left bank we passed Onitsha,
an important market town, on the beach below which
were congregated some five or six hundred people, — ■
and shortly afterw^ards on the opposite shore, Asaba,
the Kii'i market of Allen's Charts, also a busy trading
place. Along an island named by Mr. Beecroft, on
account of the beautiful foliage, " Green Island," we
went by the western channel, but almost immediately
afterwards the "Pleiad" struck heavily on a sandbank,
and remained hard and fast until next morning, when
she was, under the direction of the chief mate, again
got off.
Close by Ada-mugu, the Damuggoo of Oldfield's
Narrative, we saw for the first time circular huts ; all
those previously met with having been square or
oblong, which shape prevails also throughout the
the Yoruba countries, and along the main branch of
the Kwora, while to the eastward, and throughout the
Hausa country, the round form is all but universal.
A little above this place the vessel was again most
awkwardly run aground ; this time on the weather or
upper side of a sandbank, where we remained for about
CHAP. IV.] i'gbo and igara. 53
thirty lioui's, and before slie could be floated, tbe
water had to be blown off the boilers, the deck-cargo
placed in the canoes, and then by Mr. Harcus's
management the ship had to be dragged nearly twice
her own length over the bank. On the 31st of
July the cliffs at Idda were in sight, but the steamer
being in want of fuel, I ordered her to be anchored
off a wooding place on the western bank, about
three miles from the town. To hurry matters I des-
patched Aliheli to announce our arrival, and our
intended visit to the Atta. I went ashore for an
horn' or two before dark with the wooding party, and
collected specimens for a little time. Beside a little
pool, shut from the light of heaven by the thick forest
of branches, I found a species of Cicindela, coloured
in unison with its sombre habitation, while from
under some dead leaves, I picked up a pretty little
flattened myriapod of very peculiar appearance.
We left the ship in the gig and pinnace about seven
in the morninpj, and after an hour's pull,
. , Aug. 1.
reached the landing-place at Idda. Here we
inquired after our messenger, who had not returned to
us, but could learn nothing of him. Presently, how-
ever, Mr. Richards recognised an old acquaintance,
one of the Atta's eunuchs, who offered to conduct us.
After a ten minutes' walk, we arrived at a collection of
huts, at the door of one of which we were requested
to remain for a few minutes, but presently were asked
to enter. Here we found Aliheli, who told us that
owing to some party quarrels our message had not
54 NAERATIYE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
been forwarded to the Atta, but that now we should
meet one of the head-men. Passing through several
outer rooms, we came to a court, where we saw, seated
on a window-sill, an elderly man, who was, we were
informed, brother to the late A'boko, so often
mentioned in " Laird and Oldfield's Narrative," as the
great friend of white men, and who had first intro-
duced them into this country. He received us very
civilly, shaking hands with us, and ordered mats to be
spread for us. He regretted that he could not
forward our message without first consulting the
other heads of his party, named after their late chief,
** Al)oko's party," which, however, he had sent to do,
and was now awaiting the result. In the meantime,
while partaking of some palm-wine and gura nuts,
we found ourselves plunged into the midst of Igara
politics, and Idda state intrigue. An Igara chief,
named Agabidoko, whose mother was an I'gbo, and
who was now residing at a place named Egdokanyi,
near Ada-mugu, had quarrelled with some of A'boko's
people at Asaba market, and had killed several of
them. They in retaliation had seized one of Aga-
bidoko's head women, and carried her to Idda, on
which her friends followed and claimed her, but not
succeeding, carried off as a trophy three or four
canoes. Consequently A'boko's people were closely
watching against another surprise, and last night our
messenger, who came just as it was dusk, was nearly
fired at, being mistaken for an emissary of the enemy.
A considerable body was encamped on English island.
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 55
under the command of Okeyin, one of A'boko's sons,
to whom notice of our visit had been sent. A'boko's
party claimed, and had been allowed the privilege
of introducing all white strangers to the coiu"t of
Idda, and therefore it was only politic to comply with
the established custom. We assured our host, whose
name was Ehimodina, that this was the first time we
had heard of this " war palaver," but that it ought
not to interfere with our seeing the Atta, as our wish
was to be friendly with all parties. He replied that he
was delighted to have seen " white men " once more,
that he knew we should do good, and perhaps eflPect
peace, but that he could not act without the consent
of his colleagues, Fortunately just at this moment
his messenger arrived, and we were told we must go
to the island and see A'boko's son. I at once said
that we were willing and ready, on which Ehimodina
offered to accompany us to the shore, and send a
guide with us. He had been hitherto dressed in a
voluminous loose robe, formed of a large piece of
cloth, but he now prepared for his jaunt by donning
first a larger, then a smaller tobe, a pair of bag-
trousers, a red cap, and yellow leather boots. Being
a Mussulman, he had his string of charms round his
neck ; then taking a whip in his hand, he went out
to mount his steed, a genuine Rosinante, but fau'ly
caparisoned. The stirrups were made of pieces of
sheet brass, shaped and curved to fit the entire foot.
Numerous armed attendants preceded and followed
him ; and as he went along, the people bent before
56 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap, iv,
him lowly to the ground. He left us at the river's
edge, while we embarked, and after a pull of upwards
of a mile, landed on the western side of English
Island. Here we found an extensive temporary
settlement, or rather a military encampment, the huts
much smaller than ordinary bell-tents, being made of
long reeds and bamboos, covered with dried grass.
Into one of these we were ushered, where we found
Okeyin, an unintellectual, heavy-looking man, but
withal with a mild expression. Mats were brought,
visitors poured in, and presently fourteen people were
crowded into a most uncomfortably confined space,
with hardly a breath of fresh air.
After the usual salutations, I told him how pleased
we were to see a son of A'boko, who had so befriended
former white visitors, and added that we were
desirous of at once waiting on the Atta. Okeyin
said he hoped we would stay, and that we should see
the king to-morrow, but I told him that could not be,
as we had a long voyage before us, and could not
delay. He and his friends winced a little at this ; but,
as I remained firm, they consented, asking, however,
to see the presents we designed for the Atta. This I
at once refused, saying, " It was not Englishman's
" fashion ; but, if they wished to know, anyone might
" accompany us and see." After some demur, this was
agreed to, and one of the head men of the party
named U'ti, a fine-looking, intelligent, and pleasing
person, was sent to conduct us. Having partaken of
the usual refreshment of palm-wine and gm-a nuts,
CHAP. IV.] i'gBO AND IGARA. 57
we embarked, pulled back to Idda, and marched up
tlie hill, two of our Kru-boys preceding us, carrying
our ensigns. The day, which at first was cloudy, had
since turned out fine and warm, and the sun, shining
directly upon us, was rather oppressive. Presently,
we were met by a native band, comprising two drum-
mers and a fifer, who played some rude, but lively
and not unpleasant airs, on hearing which, our friend
U'ti, in his enthusiasm, stepped towards them, and
performed a " pas seul au militaire," by no means
ungracefully. In this manner we proceeded, numbers
of the inhabitants following us, many insisting on
shaking hands with us, and now and then presenting
us with eggs and fruit. Our first stoppage was at
the residence of one of the king's head-women, who,
having inspected and approved of us, forwarded us to
the hut of one of the head-men, who, in his tiu-n,
passed us to another, by whom we were finally led to
the royal abode, oiu' route from the river having been
at least two miles. We were requested to remain in
a kind of open yard, partially surrounded by huts,
until the Atta could be informed of our approach.
Mats were here spread for us, so we sat down, sur-
rounded by a large crowd of curious but very friendly
beholders. Pitchers of palm-wine were brought, and
served to us in calabashes, until, at length, becoming
impatient, I sent to try and hurry our reception.
Several of us amused ourselves by smoking cigars,
the natives expressing the utmost astonishment at
our Vesta matches and fusees, for instantaneous light.
58 NAERATIVE OF AN" EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
After a delay of an hour and a half we were graciously
informed that the Atta would now receive us ; so
advancing, or rather creeping, through several very
low entrances, walking along dark passages, and
taking sundry sharp turns, we were finally ushered
into a spacious square court, at the upper end of
which, seated on a mud throne, and surrounded by
slaves and courtiers, we beheld his Majesty the Atta
of Igara. Our reception much resembled that given
to the late Mr. Beecroft, in 1840, as described in his
MS. journal. As soon as we had all entered, I
advanced towards the Atta, on which a number of
those around him jumped up, uttered a wild scream,
and hid him from our view with their dresses. After
a few seconds they retired, and we were told we
might now shake hands, which I did, and, having
introduced my party, we all sat down on mats spread
before the throne. The screaming and hiding cere-
mony was now repeated, and again after we had
placed our interpreter in front. We spoke to Aliheli
in English, who translated it into Hausa, which was
again rendered to the king in Igara, by an intelligent-
looking young man, who, coming forward and making
a lowly obeisance, remained kneeling during our
interview. His Majesty's state di'ess consisted of a
large figured purple-velvet tobe, reaching from his
neck to his feet ; his head-piece was a cap covered
with white beads, and having, at the sides and in the
front, tufts of fine feathers, the latter projecting over
his face, so as to prevent a full view of his coun-
CHAP. IV.] i'gbo and igaea. 59
tenance. Pendant from each ear hung a thin,
circular, piece of wood, perforated with various
devices, round his neck were innumerable strings of
beads, white, blue, and yellow, and against his breast
was a large brass plate, closely resembling the sign of
an insurance office. In his left hand, which peeped
from under his ample sleeve, was a hollow brass tube,
attached to which were numerous little bells. A
similar article rested in his lap, while, on a small mat
before him, was placed a dilapidated stone-ware
" Souter Johnny." His Majesty was seated on a
bench covered with native-made cushions and clothes,
and had, standing close about him, five slaves with
large fans, which were employed incessantly, either to
cool his cheeks, or, for the more important office of
concealing the royal countenance when he laughed, or
when he had condescendingly delivered himself of
some oracular dogma. When used for either of the
two latter purposes the attendant courtiers invariably
uttered the wild shriek which greeted our ears on
our first entry. The various initial ceremonies being
happily concluded, we commenced by desiring the
interpreter to convey to his sable Majesty our sincere
respects, and the great happiness we experienced in
being enabled to wait on him. This having been
graciously received, and responded to by an approving
nod and a courtly scream, we further made humble
enquiries regarding the state of the royal health, ex-
pressing our hopes that it remained in a satisfactory
condition. We then proceeded to inform him that
60 NAKEATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. iv.
we had come also to enquire into the state of the
country, to know whether peace prevailed, and
whether he w^as willing to trade with us, as we
were desirous of redeeming the promises made by
the former expedition. We also mentioned the great
sickness in 1841, as the cause of the long interval
between the visits. The Atta replied that he
thanked God for bringing white men again to see
him, that he had in his heart all " Captain Trotter's
Book," * that he would make good trade and bring
plenty of ivory, and that he trusted white men would
again settle in his land. He added that the Con-
fluence was too far from him, as he would like to
have his friends nearer to him, so that he might send
every morning to enquire after them. He then
regretted that he had not a suitable dash for us,
hinting, however, that if we had one for him he
would be happy to ease our minds by receiving it
at once. Disregarding this for the present, we pro-
ceeded to let him know that we intended leaving the
next day, on which his Majesty said that was im-
possible, " it was not good," the ship must come to
Idda and remain for five days. I explained the
reason of our hurry, and at last, to quiet him, I pro-
mised that the " Pleiad " should be off" the town
early next morning, and should remain there until
noon, when we must positively leave. Mr..Crowther
* This means the treaty made with the Commissioners in 1841 : hook
or its equivalent in African languages meaning any document whether
printed or written.
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 61
now questioned him as to his willingness to receive
teachers, who would instruct his subjects in good
ways, and also to "read book" and "write book."
The Atta declared his entire satisfaction at this pro-
posal, and, after some further conversation about trade,
our interview ended by my presenting him with a
looking-glass, a razor, a sabre and brass scabbard, a
double-barrelled gun, and eight pieces of cloth of
different patterns. At the sight of these the King's face
brightened, and he appeared in a great hurry to end
the conference and to examine the articles, AAdiich he
commenced doing before we left him, a piece of native
cloth having been given to our interpreter for his
services. The Atta is said to be about fifty years
old ; his skin is very dark and he has a heavy, sensual
look. Though an absolute monarch he does not seem
to possess much real authority, nothing of importance
being transacted without the consent of A'boko's
party. By this time it w^as nearly dark, so we
walked quickly to our boats, and reached the ship
by seven o'clock, having completed a good day's
w^ork, and broken through the old custom of not
seeing the Atta the same day that the announcement
is made to him.
By seven next morning we were at anchor close off
Idda, upon which numerous canoes came off
... . Aug. 2.
bringing ivory and other articles for sale. I
prepared presents for Ehimodina and Okeyin, as also
for our friend U'ti, and for various of the king's family
and attendants. Our musical band of the day previous
62 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
came off, and the performers each received a small dash
ill return for which they played at a most astonishing
rate, until, incited by their stirring strains, three of our
visitors treated us to a native dance on our quarter-
deck. Mr. Crowther and I went and paid another
visit to Okeyin on English Island, by whom we were
presented with a goat and some yams. Under the
guardianship of U'ti, two of the king's daughters,
named A'ku and U'fo, came on board. I cut two
pieces of scarlet cloth scarf-fashion, and put them
across their shoulders, telhng them that was " white
woman's " fashion. We steamed from Idda about
one o'clock, but for the remainder of that day did
not make much progress.
The situation of Idda is very pleasing ; and to
our eyes, accustomed as they then were to the low
grounds and swampy flats of the lower parts of the
stream, was especially reviving. Placed on an emi-
nence overlooking the river, the huts interspersed
with lofty trees with finely-tinted foliage, and with
high land for the back ground, the view was as
charming as it was novel and romantic. After in-
haling the pestilential miasmata of the Delta, denied
the free enjoyment of the air of heaven by lofty
frowning mangroves, and being unable to gaze on
any objects but the sky above, the river beneath, and
an unbroken line of trees along the banks, all
thoughts of sickness or of weariness at once vanished
on treading these commanding heights, glancing at
the rocky cliffs beneath, and freely breathing the
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 63
invigorating atmosphere. Here, for the first time, we
met with the gigantic Baobab or Monkey Bread-fruit
Tree {Adansonia digitatd), with its massive trunk, its
spreading branches, and its oblong, pendulous, elon-
gated fruit.
Igara, sometimes, though incorrectly, called Igala,
extends along the left bank of the Kwora, from
below Ada-mugu, where it borders on I'gbo, up to
the Confluence. Under its original name of A'kpoto
it extends inland and along the lower Binue for a
considerable distance. The western part only is
known as Igara, so named from a Yoruban chief who
conquered the district. Idd4 is the capital \ form-
erly a place of great importance, but of late years
on the decline. The Atta was at one time a ruler of
the first consequence, many countries paying tribute
to him, as Kakanda, I'gbu'a, and Doma ; but his
authority even in his own proper dominions is now
very feeble. " Atta" is his peculiar title j it signifies
father, the Igara for king being " Onu ; " by the
former he is invariably known to the surrounding
nations, but the latter is frequently employed in
speaking of him in Igara. The language of Igara
is peculiar, but has its affinities chiefly with the
Yoruban family,* so much so, that Mr. Crowther
could recognise many words. Idda is the first place
where rocks of any magnitude occur. They are
chiefly of ferruginous sandstone, the strata being
* Koelle, from his philological researches at Sierra Leone, arrives at a
similar conclusion, and has formed a class of " Akd-Igala " languages.
64 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. it.
nearly horizontal. The cliff on which the town is
built, and which presents a perpendicular face
towards the river, is said to be 185 feet high by
barometric measurement, though to the eye it does
not seem so much. Mr. May intended to have ascer-
tained it trigonometrically, but was unfortunately
prevented from so doing.*
The tract of country opposite to Idda, on the
western bank, is said to be tributary to Bini (Benin),
and is known as Edo. I made many inquiries
after the town of Wappa mentioned in Allen and
Thomson's narrative, but could learn nothing of it.
However, during my voyage to England, I met at
Sierra Leone with a man from this very district, from
whom I found that the town is correctly named
Wifa, and that the inhabitants speak a dialect akin
to that of Bini. The name Edo, or, as pronounced
by the Abo people, " Edu " or " Idu," is derived
from Ado, generally contracted do, the usual form of
salutation, in the same way as Yorubans are, for a
similar reason, styled Aku.
While passing a small village on the left bank,
inhabited by some of A'boko's party, a canoe came
off bringing ivory for sale, from which Dr. Hutchin-
son purchased, besides several scrivelloes, a fine tooth
w^eighing forty-two pounds. Up to this point the
river was bounded by sandstone cliffs and sloping
* This has been variously estimated by different visitors from 140 to
300 feet. Vide Laird and Oldfield's Narrative, vol. i. p. 124 ; Mc William's
Medical History, pp. 70 and 285 ; and Allen and Thomson's Narrative,
vol. i. p. 318 ; also Allen's Chart of the Quorra.
CHAP. IV.] i'gbo and igara. 65
banks, behind which were table-lands, and gently
rising hills. But now a change became evident ; the
rocks seemed altered in character, and huge pieces,
more or less modified by volcanic agency, were from
time to time visible. Bird-rock, so named by Lander,
is a large, white-topped, quartz block, situated nearly
in mid-stream ; and the mountains, which here
line the eastern side are steep, rugged, and conical.
We passed the island on which during the dry
season a celebrated market is held every ten days,
and which is attended by traders from Kakanda to
Abo. This meeting, which during the rains takes
place on the eastern shore of the river, is called
Ikiri or Okiri,* meaning either the " distant market "
or the " market between the hills," either of which
explanations is suitable. The hills are finely covered
with vegetation, between the patches of which the
dark extremities of broken strata present themselves,
while down the sides extending often to the water's
edge, are deep ravines, which, after heavy rains, must
be mountain-torrents. We anchored off a little
creek, rather beyond the north end of Maconochy's
Island, where Mr. May and I landed, and by the
light of a beautiful moon proceeded to explore the
locality ; a little village was found, named Iroko, the
inhabitants of which, though at first rather alarmed,
soon became friendly ; we also stumbled across a
bivouacking party, composed of the crews of two
* The name " Bocqua " given by Lander is not known to the natives.
T
66 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
small canoes on their way to some market. Mr.
May got a good meridian altitude of the moon,
while I examined a large projecting mass of rock on
the beach, closely resembling at a distance, the
" Bird-rock." This I found to be composed of mica
slate, partly altered by the action of fire, the top
covered with scales of mica, reflecting beautifully the
rays of light, causing a shining, silvery appearance.
While seated on the summit, some fifteen or sixteen
feet above the ground, gazing at the clear evening
sky, and the softly tinted scenery around, I was
roused by a splash in the lagoon immediately beneath,
and on looking for the cause, saw that a crocodile had
landed on the sand, and was taking a rapid survey
of me, with which he seemed soon to be satisfied, as
he speedily disappeared. About ten o'clock we again
landed to try to get a lunar observation ; but while
in the act of pulling ashore, clouds began to form
in the zenith very rapidly; and in less than ten
minutes the whole face of the heavens was completely
obscured.
Next morning showed that we were advancing still
further into elevated regions. To the westward
Aug. 4. _ _
were mounts Jervis and Erskine, while rather
more to the northward the gigantic Soracte, with
abrupt sides and a rounded summit, rises suddenly
from the plain to the height of 1200 or 1300 feet ; and
further inland " Saddleback " sternly faces the north,
but gently slopes in the opposite direction. On the
southern extremity of " Beaufort Island," is a prettily
CHAP. IV.] i'gbo and igara. 67
shaped hill, about 180 to 200 feet in height, which
I named " Mount Francis." Opposite to this, on
the eastern side, is a chain of conical mountains,
three of which, close to the river, are very remarkable ;
the central one, which has an altitude of from 400 to
500 feet, has been named Mount Frankhn, and is
connected to its immediate neighbours by sharp, rocky
elevations. The most northern, which had not
previously received any designation, was by Mr. May
named " Mount Crozier." We observed nearly in
the centre of the river a large schistose rock, with
a smooth rounded top, to which a very singular look
was given by two veins of bright quartz running
through it. Near the " Quorra Bank," the " Pleiad "
grounded, but got off without much trouble. Seeing
on the left bank huts and numbers of inhabitants,
Mr. Crowther and I determined to land, and
accordingly, accompanied by Mr. May and Mr.
Richards, set off in the gig.
The people received us with the utmost cordiality,
and invited us to see A'ma-A'boko their chief, who
was, we learnt, eldest son of Old A'boko, of Idda.
We were accordingly conducted first to the abode of
the headman of the town, by whom we were intro-
duced to the King, who gave us a hearty welcome,
saying he was delighted at this return of white men,
his father's friends. I asked him to come on board
next day at the Confluence, which he promised to
do, as he told us that none of his people would open
trade with us until he had himself personally com-
68 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
menced it. He told us that the town of Panda *
had been recently sacked by a body of Eulatas, who
were still lingering in that neighbourhood. A'ma-
A'boko is about fifty years old, with strongly marked
features, and a somewhat furrowed face. His expres-
sion is one of firmness and decision, but without any
trace of cruelty or evil passion ; and he is said to
resemble his father more than any of his brothers do.
He has ruled near the Confluence for a long period,
and now possesses much influence around, being
actually, though not nominally, independent of the
Atta, and in reality, a more powerful chief. His
town, which is named Igbegbe, is finely situated for
trade, being nearly opposite the site of the once
famous market town of Odokodo.f The huts, which
are all circular, were better constructed and more
substantial than any we had seen, and the walls of
part of the chief's residence were coloured red and
blue with camwood, and indigo. The population is
numerous but mixed, and consists chiefly of Igara
and Fgbira people, the language being that of the
latter. During our interview to-day, I spoke to
Mr. Crowther in English, who translated my words
into Yoruba ; they were retranslated to another man
in Nupe, who finally addressed the King in I'gbira.
This system of treble or quadi'uple rendering, is not
* This is the Fundah or Fandah of former writers, F being a common
Haiisa corruption for P.
+ Often though incorrectly written Adda Kudu ; it is derived from the
Y<5ruba words odo, river, aud 16, to meet. Odd-ko-odo, i.e. odokddo, river
meeting river, from its situation at the confluence of the two streams.
ciiAr.iv.] i'GBO>AND IGARA. 09
only very tedious, but often quite alters the original
meaning of a sentence. It is, however, very common
at interviews with African chiefs, as it is looked on
as etiquette, particularly at a first meeting, for the
grandee, whoever he may be, not to understand any
language but his own. The Hausa tongue is the
French of Central Africa, being very generally under-
stood, and being the medium by which traders from
different countries transact business in common. It
was the language which was of most service to us,
and by its means the greater part of our intercourse
was carried on. We have often been surprised, when
paying a private visit to some chief, to find that the
individual who perhaps only the day previous, could
understand nothing but the dialect of his own district,
obliging us to address him by a double translation,
could now not merely comprehend Hausa, but also
speak it fluently. African traders are in general good
and ready linguists, speaking not unfrequently three
or four different tongues ; the speed, also, wdth which
they translate a sentence, without almost a moment's
consideration, is really surprising. We made inquhies
about the Binue or Tsadda, but except the lower
parts, they seemed at Igbegbe to know little about it.
They recognised, however, the name Adamawa, and
said that was the country which yielded ivory.
A'ma-A'boko told me he would try to send some
persons with us to point out the different places, and
tell us their names, for which kind offer I thanked
him. In returning towards the boat, we met an old
70 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap, iv.'
lady, a connection of the chief's, who, recognising
Mr. Richards and AKheli, bestowed on each a hearty
embrace. During our run ashore, the " Pleiad " had
found the channel, and was steaming slowly up
towards the Confluence ; but before rejoining, we
pulled along the eastern bank, rounded Point Tsadda,
and dipped our oars in the " dark waters." Being
in want of wood, I ordered a convenient spot to be
selected along the shores of the " Model Farm," and
one being found, we anchored nearly abreast of
" Sacrifice -rock." A wooding party was at once sent
on shore and set to work ; after which I visited Duck
Island, and got some specimens of birds and of insects.
About seven o'clock, Mr. May and I landed on
" Sacrifice -rock," where we got a meridian altitude
of the moon, and a set of lunar distances with Jupiter.
Being very anxious to obtain a good view of the
surrounding country, Mr. May, Mr. Crowther,
Aug. 5.
and myself left before daylight, and went in the
gig a little way up the main stream of the Kwora, and
with some difficulty finding a landing-place, walked
towards the foot of Mount Patte. We followed a
winding narrow pathway, by which, after half an
hour's climbing, we reached an elevation of upwards
of 400 feet, where on a small plateau we discovered a
little village, inhabited by a few Kakanda people, who
lived upon this height for security, having been driven
from their native homes by Dasaba, King of Niipe,
who had, however, been very recently deposed for
his cruelty, and forced to fly for refuge to Ilorin, in the
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 71
Yoruba country. They received us very kindly, giving
us some country beer, the only thing, poor people,
they had to offer us. Our intention had been to ascend
to the top of the mountain, and visit the villages
which we had heard were situated on its table summit,
but we now ascertained that these had ceased to exist,
while the foot-track having become overgrown, was
no longer visible. Not having time to cut a path
for ourselves, we were forced to forego this part of
our plan, which, however, we regretted the less, on
account of the magnificent prospect opened to us
from this little encampment. The sun, now well above
the horizon, had succeeded in dispersing the mists
of the early morning, its rays, still greatly inclined,
were brilliantly reflected from the sides of the moun-
tains, and light and shade, strongly contrasted, were
well defined in the clear tropical atmosphere. Beneath
us was the pretty green-topped Mount Stirling, sadly
reminding us of the misfortunes of its last European
visitors. On our left was a deep ravine, separating
us from another flat-crowned hill. Mount Victoria,
while on the other hand was the undulating wooded
country, purchased in 1841 for the model farm, and
stretching far away to the southward until there
arrested by rugged rocky ground and abrupt
mountains. Pursuing a somewhat meandering route,
the Narrow Kwora flowing from the northward
wound along the base of the western highlands, while
full before us came pouring from the eastward the
broad, the straight-coursed Binue, the commingling
72 XAPwRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iy.
waters of the two mighty streams forming the
expansive, lake-Uke Confluence, its surface dotted with
islets and banks, or rippled by contending currents,
while in the distance the united rivers impetuously
rushed towards the sea, through the deep defile by
which we had so lately ascended. The extensive ruins
of the once busy Odokodo, the centre of trade in this
place before its destruction by a ruthless Pulata band,
were hid from view by the thick brushwood ; but the
crowded huts of its important commercial successor
were plainly discerned on the opposite shore. Along
the banks numerous villages could be detected, while
frequently, more inland, a ciu-ling wreath of smoke
would betray the existence of some sequestered hamlet,
half-hidden beneath lofty trees. Ear as the eye could
reach, over miles and miles, the ground teemed with
exuberant vegetation ; seeming often in the fantastic
appearance of its wild growth to revel in its exemption
from culture. Such a fruitful soil in other climes, and
with a happier population, would yield support and
employment to countless thousands, and long ere this
have proved the source of untold wealth. To complete
our panorama, quietly at anchor, and now surrounded
by canoes, there lay the little "Pleiad," the avant-
couriere of European energy and influence ; and I trust,
the forerunner of civilization and its attendant
blessings, and of better days to these richly-endowed
but hitherto unfortunate regions.
Between the two rivers is a long swampy piece of
land, formed by alluvial deposits, intersected by
CHAP. IT] i'qbo and igara. 73
channels and streamlets, constituting, indeed, a minia-
ture delta. Its immediate vicinity must be very
unhealthy, and its proximity to the model-farm pos-
session is much too near to be pleasant, as during the
dry season there must be an immense malaria-yielding
surface. Mr. May having completed his sketch and
got a set of bearings, we descended by the rugged
pathway, and, embarking, soon left the creeks for the
open river. I found the temperature of the Kwora,
at this point, to exceed that of the water of the
Confluence by, from a degree to a degree and a-lialf
of Fahrenheit. The natives fancy there is a difference
in the colour of the two streams, hence, in Hausa,
the Kwora is styled " Pari n'rua," or the " white
water," while the Binue is known as " Baki n'rua,"
the " black water ; " the Igara synonyms of these
being " Ujimini fufu," and " Ujimini dudu,"* the
former word evidently connected with the Abo
Oshimini. We reached the " Pleiad " about ten
o'clock, and found on board A'ma-A'boko, who had
come to pay us a visit, and had brought us, as a
present, a goat, some yams, and some jars of beer. I
asked him to come below, and had a long talk with him
on trade and other matters. He was evidently in-
clined to be most friendly, and relished much the
idea of opening up commercial intercourse with us.
I presented him, to his evident satisfaction, with a
musket and bayonet, a number of flints, a sabre
• According to Captain W. Allen, the Nupe names are respectively
Fiii'odo and Furoji,
74 XARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
and scabbard, a showy ring, and some pieces of
cloth. I gave also to the two persons next in
authority under hira, proportionate gifts, and to two
female relatives, who accompanied him, rings and
scarfs. One of these latter had two names, Ojema-
ologu, and Asebi ; this habit, which is extremely
common, arises, I am informed by Mr. Crowther,
from the practice of a different name being given to
an infant by every person present at its birth, and to
strangers this often causes great confusion, the same
individual being spoken of under distinct appellations.
We had been desirous of trying to send letters to
England, across the Yoruba country, by way of Abbeo-
kuta and Lagos, and now consulted A'ma-A'boko
about the practicability of so doing ; but he told us
that, in consequence of the late deposition of Dasaba,
the country about E'gga was so disturbed that he could
not undertake to get them transmitted. This was
our second disappointment, for while at Abo we
had calculated on sending despatches to Bonny,
which was frustrated by intercourse between these
two places having been suspended.
Trade was now going briskly on. Some fine tusks
were offered, but at very high prices ; fowls, eggs,
goats, and yams were in abundance, and fair tobacco
was purchased at the rate of eleven pounds weight
for 1000 cowries. A little boy, in stepping from one
canoe to another, fell overboard, and being unable
to swim, speedily disappeared. Another boy dived
after him, and with some trouble brought him to the
CHAP. IV.] i'gBO AND IGAEA. 75
surface, and, tlioiigh carried astern by the strong-
current, contrived to support liim until picked up.
On being brought to the ship, I gave the boy a piece
of cloth as a present, telling him it was for saving the
life of his companion, on which all the natives around
shouted and clapped their hands. In the afternoon,
Mr, Crowther and I paid another visit to Igbegbe,
and the surrounding country. The town is situated
close to the river, on gently sloping ground, at the
base of a range of hills, and is from twenty to fifty or
sixty feet above the highest level of the water. The
market was now nearly over, and we only found in it
some yams and other vegetables, with a little tobacco,
cotton, and a pink-coloured silky-looking material,
upon which they set considerable value. Behind are
large fields of maize, among which I found many
unshapely erupted granitic-looking blocks, some
curiously piled on each other. The number of
Baobab-trees here is very great, their thick oak-like
trunks and spreading foliage being very striking.
On returning to our boat we found, seated on a mat,
on a rocky eminence near the landing-place, sheltered
by a kind of tent and attended by slaves, an old
man, one of the eunuchs of the late Atta, who had
come to this place to trade. He sent to invite us to
speak to him, and receiving us very- politely, asked us
to sit beside him. He ■ was attired in an ornamented
Hausa tobe, and had on his head a cap of green
satin, ornamented with purple plush. After a good
deal of conversation he mentioned that he had an
76 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
article which he wished to have matched, and accord-
ingly gave some directions to a slave, who, disap-
pearing, speedily retm-ned, carrying, with some
ceremony, a large calabash, with which he knelt
before me. In this was a common japanned earthen-
ware jug, upon which O'gbe, for that was his name,
gazed with intense admiration, asking me to give him
another like it. I had to regret that it was not in
my power to oblige him ; but promised, if ever I
came up the river again, as I hoped I should do, that
I would remember his commission. Next day, after
church time, I landed and walked over a portion of
the model-farm territory. The shore is lined by a
thick belt of trees, beyond which is tall grass, so
thick as greatly to impede progression. Great part
of this land is low and swampy, and in the more
elevated spots are projecting pieces of rock, which
would materially interfere with culture. There is,
however, ample choice of locality, dry or wet soil
being easily found. I saw numerous tracks of wdld
animals, chiefly of oxen and deer, and in one spot
came upon the quite recent footprints of an elephant.
I was much struck with some white ants' nests, which,
in structure and in size, surpassed any I had ever
previously seen. There w^ere about twenty distinct
edifices, none less than six feet high, while one in
particular w^as nearly fourteen feet, and turreted like
an Elizabethan mansion. During the afternoon, two
canoes, with some small horses on board, arrived
from Muye, a town some distance up the Kwora,
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGAEA. 77
with a mixed population of Kakanda and Nupe
people.
The people of Igara employ no distinctive marks,
and are very rarely seen at all tattooed. The inhabi-
tants of Abo are always at once recognised by the
men having three short, perpendicular lines, between
the eye and the ear, and three shorter horizontal
ones on the upper part of the nose, just between the
eyebrows, while the women have the same mark on
the nose, but have six of the perpendicular lines.
In other parts of Tgbo difiPerent devices are employed,
of which I shall speak hereafter.
On leaving the Confluence, some needless delays
took place ; and the vrood we had on board
being of inferior quality, did not burn well ; so
much so, that five or six times during the day, we had
to anchor to get up steam, our entire progress not
exceeding six or seven miles. Canoes accompanied
us all day, and some petty trading was carried on.
Mr. May and 1 landed at night on the north side,
and got a meridian altitude of Vega. In the clearest
night, when not a fragment of a cloud is visible,
and the stars overhead shining with a resplendent
brilliancy quite unknown in more northern latitudes,
there is almost invariably a haze along the horizon
extending upwards from ten to sixteen or eighteen
degrees, and quite obscming any heavenly bodies
within its boundary. This is more remarkable, and of
greater intensity in the north and south than in the
east and west, but especially in the north ; so much
78 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
SO, that since our arrival in the river we had never
got a single glimpse of the Polar star. We found
that we were close to a little village, the entire popu-
lation of which turned out ; and after a few prelimi-
naries, Mr. May and I had to shake hands with
every one present, to the number of forty or fifty,
after which the headman gave me a fine fowl. Not
having anything to offer him in return, I asked him
to come on board and see me early in the morning,
which he promised to do. The wood the next day
burnt as feebly as before ; and after struggling
against the stream for about a mile, we had again
to anchor. Seeing there was no prospect of advanc-
ing at this rate, and that the master was either
unwilling or too lazy to find a remedy, I had to
desire him to send a wooding party ashore, while
Mr. Crowther and I proceeded to a village a httle
way ofl", to see what could be effected. We there
found abundance of excellent wood, ready cut and
di-y, which the inhabitants were willing to sell, on
which I sent for one of the large iron canoes, which
w^as soon deeply laden at the expense of a few hun-
dred needles, and some little zinc-cased looking-
glasses. The village was named A'tipo, and was
inhabited by I'gbira people, who are a busy, indus-
trious set. Of this we had a good example, as no
sooner did we inquire after wood, than every avail-
able man, woman, and child in the place immediately
set to collecting and carrying, so that a very ani-
mating scene was presented. The late Mr. Beecroft
CHAP. IV.] i'gBO and IGAKA. 79
dui'ing his ascents of the river, used to purchase
firewood very easily and cheaply for salt ; but unfor-
tunately our supply of this article, which is always
in great demand, was left behind at Fernando Po.
A few drops of rain fell at this time, being the first
we had seen for ten days. The river had not risen
at all for nearly a fortnight, but the natives told us
they were in daily expectation of its increase. They
said that the previous season had been a very dry
one, but that much rain was expected this year.
The current ran here from three-and-a-half to four
knots, being much stronger than the average.
Among other articles brought on board for sale, was
trona, or impure carbonate of soda, sometimes in
little bags, but occasionally in cakes. This article
is in constant requisition in all the markets, and is
said to be supplied here from the upper parts of the
Binue. In the evening a canoe reached us, bringing
five men and a boy, who had been sent by A'ma-A'boko
in fulfilment of his promise, which I had thought he
had forgotten or neglected. I accordingly sent back
to thank him, and promised to take great care of his
messengers, and to bring them back in safety. There
were two parties, one being the chief's own man,
named Mama, with two followers, who were called
Maka and Bami, the other being headed by a very
intelligent man entitled Ztiri, who had frequently
traded up the river, and who had with him his son
Musa, a precious young imp, and a slave named
O'robo. I was nmch pleased at their arrival, as
80 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
not only would our intercourse with the natives be
greatly facilitated, but we could more easily and
more exactly ascertain the names of the places we
passed.
Om' new wood biu'nt well, and the supply of steam
was easily kept up. As a fine breeze was blow-
Aug. 9. . .
ing nearly right aft, we fitted one of our canoe-
sails on a small spar, and set it on the foremast, the
other we hoisted in one of the canoes, which was
lashed alongside, and as the wind was fresh, this
eased the engines considerably. Every day after we
quitted the delta, we had always experienced a fine
breeze, more or less strong, blowing, except during
squalls, invariably up the river. Had we had our
sails on board, much fuel would have been saved,
and much greater progress been made ; but as already
mentioned, the master had chosen to leave them
behind at Clarence. The channel about this part of
the river is very tortuous, requiring frequent crossing
over from one side to the other, and very careful
sounding. On the south side we saw a little village
named "Bofu;" and shortly afterwards, nearly abreast
of Harriet Island, picturesquely situated on the edge
of a clifiP nearly eighty feet high, stands Ogba. We
did not stay at this place, but anchored for the night
some three miles further on, under the pretty hill
named " Lander's Seat." Early next morning the
chief sent to inquire, why we passed him, to which
I replied that we were obliged to press on, being
desii'ous of going a long journey, but that we should
CHAP. IV.] i'qbo and igara. 81
visit him on our return. Before getting under steam
Mr. May and I landed for sidits on Little
TT . ... Aug. 10.
Harriet Island, which is simply a large sand-
bank covered with high rank grass. The banks of the
river are usually thickly and luxuriantly wooded down
to the very water's edge, except in spots cleared for
cultivation around the villages. A little inland on both
sides are fine ranges of hills, those to the northward
being lower and more rounded, while those to the
southward are higher, more abrupt, and with numerous
peaked eminences. Among these we had some diffi-
culty in recognising Mount Vidal, but at last fixed
on what seemed the loftiest and most remarkable,
having an elevation of 900 to 1000 feet. The
range itself I named after one of the former ex-
plorers of the lower Binue, the "Oldfield Range."
Islets of various shapes and sizes became more
numerous, among which one particularly attracted
our notice, from being covered with huts. We
anchored close to the spot, which was just abreast of
a large town on the right bank, named Yimaha. On
landing, we found that the entire population had left
this town from dread of a Pulata invasion, and had
taken up their temporary abode on this little islet, on
which they had been residing for three months.
The encampment bore every mark of having been
constructed in great haste, the huts being composed
of dry sticks and reeds, yet these industrious people
were weaving, picking cotton, and busily pursuing
their various occupations. I paid a visit to their
82 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
chief, a feeble, decrepit, very aged man, named
Ozineku. I regretted much the cause of their exile,
and said we were willing to purchase anything they
had to sell, particularly ivory, provisions, and fire-
wood. This little place was most fearfully infested
with flies, so as forcibly to remind one of the Plagues
of Egypt. During our hurried interview we obtained
a partial exemption from their annoyance by hard
smoking ; but even in that short space of time, these
little pests seemed to become reconciled to the smell
of our tobacco, or even to enjoy it, and darting
through the clouds with which we enveloped our-
selves, buzzingly mocked at us. Mosquitoes — I need
not remind those who have sadly experienced them —
are insect nuisances of the first degree of intensity ;
the sleepless nights caused by their incessant tiny
though ominous humming, and the irritating wounds,
the results of their blood-thirsty voracity, are too
much in the nightly experience of tropical travellers.
Sand-flies are, perhaps, still more troublesome pests ;
minute in the extreme, they almost defy detection,
and pass exultingly through the finest gauze; yet,
confiding in their number, which is Legion, they
prove a most pitiless and most unwearying foe. But
of all entomological curses, I do not know one which
equals a swarm of ordinary flies. Commencing with
early dawn, they pursue, surround, and torment you
in the most indefatigable manner. They fly into
your ears, they crawl over your face, creep up your
nose ; and if you happen to yawn, you discover that
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 83
even your mouth is not sacred. They seem, too,
to be omnivorous, and to have the good taste to
try whatever is selected as food for man. Hot or
cold, raw or cooked, solid or fluid, sweet or sour,
are equally the same, and in the excess of their
sociality, they often insist upon sharing the very
mouthful you are engaged on, or drinking from the
glass already at your Hps. In the whole range of
the insect world Moses could not have called forth
a species more calculated to worry, to tease, to
torment, or really to plague, than that ubiquitous
form which we met with in Refuge Island.
We afterwards landed at Yimalia, where we were
received by a solitary individual, who welcomed us
with a melancholy smile, telling us that only the day
before four Fulata horsemen had visited them and had
inspected the place, and he pointed out, close to where
we were, the marks of then* horses' hoofs. These
restless invaders had found the place deserted, and
not having canoes could not attack the refugees on
their insular abode ; but, as the river would soon
be rising, and the place be overflowed, these unfortu-
nates were living in daily, almost hourly, expectation
of again being obliged to seek for another shelter.
These Fulatas formed part of the band which had so
lately sacked Panda and killed the King Oyigu, and
who, not content with the extent of their raid, were
seeking for more plunder ere they returned home.
Our informant was by trade a dyer, and had come
over with two companions to see if their works had
G 2
84 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. chap, iv,
been left untouched. He conducted us through this
abode of desolation, the numerous substantial-looking
huts being forlorn-looking and empty, and the path-
ways choked up with grass and weeds. We visited
the King's residence, and were pointed out the
chamber in which, twenty-one years before, "white
men " had been received, namely, during Mr. Laird's
visit in 1833, which our friend remembered very well.
During our short stay here Dr. Hutchinson pur-
chased upwards of 2001bs. of ivory at a moderate
rate. In the evening we anchored oflF the mouth of
the O'kwa, a little stream leading to Potinkia, the
port of Panda. Polaris was visible for the first time,
but unfortunately no landing-place was near. I
watched for a long time for meteors, this being one
of their regular epochs, but I did not observe more
than half-a-dozen, all very high up, to the northward
of the zenith, and describing very short courses.
The morning of the 11th August was the first on
which a heavy dew was noted, and a thick mist
hung along the bases of the hills until sunrise. Mr.
May and I went in the gig to search for a landing-
place, and at last were successful in getting to a small
sandbank, where we got a good set of sights and an
azimuth, after which we pulled to the " Pleiad,"
already under steam, and coming towards us. Early
in the forenoon the master, most unaccountably, and
against the advice of Mr. Richards, who was with
him, ran up a narrow, shallow-looking channel, and,
as might have been expected, got the vessel a-ground.
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 83
While attempting to back off, a valve in the after
part of the boiler gave way, but the mate succeeded,
after some time, in getting afloat by the use of a
Sampson post, and shifting the deck cargo. Our
chronometer rates had not been very satisfactorily
ascertained previously, and as it was supposed that
they might have changed since leaving the sea, my in-
tention had been to remain for some days at Dagbo for
that purpose, as it was of much consequence to deter-
mine these as accurately as possible before entering
on new ground. But the engineer's report now made
me alter my plan, as he said the repairing of the
engine would occupy at least two days. I therefore re-
solved to delay where we were, as, being not very far
from the sandbank on which we landed in the morning,
we could make it the scene of operation, and then the
set of sights akeady taken could be reckoned for om'
purpose. Nearly opposite to our anchorage, on the
left bank, stood a small village ; from which, after a
time, canoes began to come to us. We asked for
firewood, which was speedily brought in abundance,
and of good quality. In the afternoon Mr. Crowther
and I paid the people a visit, and were invited by the
headman, who is named Obereku and Abaja, to his
hut, where he gave us some beer. The place is named
Kende, and was founded about three years ago ; but
what rendered it peculiarly interesting to us, was,
that we found most of the inhabitants to be refugees
from Panda, who had fled after the recent capture
of theii" town, and from them we learnt authentic
86 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
particulars of this sad affair. The enemy, they said,
did not come on openly ; but for several days many
of them had been arriving at Panda in small bands,
apparently for trade, when suddenly one morning
they arose and assaulted the place, so unexpectedly
that but little resistance was made. Few were killed,
but numbers were made captives, the King being
among the former. The city was then burnt, after
which most of the Fulatas retired toAvards the town
of Toto, about which spot they were supposed to
be stiU lingering. Among these exiles thus rudely
driven from theii' houses, was the son of the headman
of Potinkia, near Panda.
Two of the persons who were conversing with us
remembered Mr. Laird's visit to Yimaha, and as I
appeared well acquainted with his trip, and mentioned
the names of various places around, they declared
that I must have accompanied him, on which an
old man, looking hard at me, affirmed that he
recollected my face well, and was extremely sceptical
when I assured him that at that time I was a very
small boy indeed, hardly so high as his knee. This
little village gives a good idea of a recent settlement.
Its site was close to the river, the huts not yet continu-
ous, but in little groups separated from each other by
yet uncut shrubs and brushwood, and here and there
were narrow footpaths leading to small cleared spots,
sown with Indian and Dawa corn; on the outskirts lay
prostrate huge trees, laboriously felled by their rude
axes, but which they had not yet had time to cut up
CHAP. IV.] I GBO AND IGARA. 87
and remove ; while a few hundred yards behind was
the still impenetrable forest, protecting and bounding
them in the rear as the river did in front.
Next morning, Mr. May and I landed on the sand-
bank, and, having brought a supply of instru-
Aug. 12.
ments, prepared for a little work. We got a
double altitude of the sun, and I took a set of mag-
netic observations with Barrow's instrument, by which
the dip of the needle was approximately determined to
be 6° 6' 58". The thermometer in the sun ranged
from 102° to 114° F. during the six hours we spent in
these occupations. The coldest period tlu-oughout the
twenty-four hours seemed to be about three a.m., the
lowest temperature on board having been 69° '5 F.
We again visited the village, when Mr. Crowther and I
distributed a few thousand cowries among the poor
people, who seemed extremely thankful, and what
with the presents we gave them, and their earnings
by selling yams, fowls, and firewood, I think it will be
long before they forget the visit of the " white man's
ship." We had now been a month in the river, and
the health of all on board was perfect, and being
quite clear of the swamps of the Delta, we were in
great hopes that this unlooked-for exemption from
disease might continue.
On Sunday morning Mr. May and I were again at
our station, when a set of lunar distances with the
sun was taken, and at three o'clock next morning
we once more landed to get a meridian altitude of
Achemar, but were prevented by the cloudiness of
88 NAKKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
tlie sky ; the moon shortly afterwards crossed the
meridian, but at too great a height to be measured
by the sextant in the artificial horizon. We were
more fortunate a few hours afterwards in getting
another set of lunars, and good sights, which com-
pleted our labours, and permitted the chronometers
to be re-rated.
The district along the north side of the Binue, as
far as we had come, was known by the name of Tgbira,
its extent being, from the confluence eastward, about
fifty miles. The chief town was Panda, now des-
troyed, and to distinguish the country and its people
from another tribe which I shall hereafter allude to, it
is often styled rgbira-Panda, rgbira-Ihi, or I'gbu'a-
Egii. The country has been represented, but wrongly,
as being called Panda, which is properly confined to
the town.* The people are highly civilised, friendly,
civil, and most industrious, and with whom it is of
much importance to keep on good terms, as a great
deal of trade is carried on by their means. A few
Muhammadans are to be found among them, but the
great majority are Pagans, but with fewer barbarous
rites than any other heathen tribe we encountered.
Tattooing is not practised, nor have they any distinc-
tive mark. In person they are rather tall, and well-
made, with a sub-typical negro countenance, and they
generally keep the body well covered with clothes.
* Thus Koelle in his Polyglotta Africana, p. 9, speaks of E'gbira the
capital of Opdnda ; whereas it should be the reverse. Op^nda also is
incorrect, the o being merely an occasional prefix.
CHAP. IV.] I GEO AND IGARA. 89
They use a peculiar language, differing from the
Igara, and having mixed affinities, chiefly with Nupe
and Yoruba. There are also many I'gbira towns and
settlements along the south bank of the Binue,
although the country there is A'kpoto, subject to,
and in reality part of, Igara. During the palmy days
of the Attas of Idda, I'gbira was tributary to them,
but at present it is independent of them, and likely
to remain so.
The scenery daily increased in beauty as we
advanced up this noble stream. Numerous villages
were discernible on both banks, the names of many
of which we obtained from our Igbegbe party. One
of large size, situated at the eastern side of the base of
Mount Pleasant, was named Amaran, a little beyond
which, opposite the " Bay Islands," was one of our
anchorages. Just abreast of this on the north shore
is the limit of the I'gbira country, its next neighbour
being named Bassa,* a little village, which we could
see among the trees, called Abatti, belonging to that
district. Mr. May and I landed in the morning on
one of the Bay Islands for sights, after which, having
an hour to spare, we circumnavigated and explored
them. During our return to the ship, we got near
a herd of hippopotami, amusing themselves in shallow
water, and being not more than a hundi'ed yards from
them we had a good opportunity of watching them,
* This appears to be a common African name, for besides the one now
mentioned, there is another to the westward of the Confluence, and a third
in the Delta in Oru ; there is also a Bassa to the northward of the Kru
coast.
90 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. iv.
and if we had had a gun with us, could have had a
famous shot. They became alarmed and made off,
but one swam towards us apparently to reconnoitre,
after which he rejoined his comrades, with, I suppose,
important intelhgence. A little beyond this we
anchored for a short time off a town named A'batsho,
the last of the I'gbira settlements on the south side.
The chief " I'robo," and his brother " Itshigbasa," re-
fugees from Panda, and sons of one of the former kings
of that city, came off to see us, and we were also visited
by one of our K6ide acquaintances, Allagaba, late
headman of Potinkia. Poor people, they were all in
sad tatters, and bore with them ample evidence of
their poverty and their privations. They were accom-
panied by a drummer, to whom I gave a figm'ed
handkerchief, on which he testified his excessive
delight by making a prodigious rattling on his instru-
ment. At night Mr. May and I had to land for our
observations on a small sandbank, on which a crocodile
also attempted to gain a footing, but was scared by
the light of our bull's-eye lantern ; unpleasant as its
company would have been, it could not have proved
more annoying, nor could he have left so many marks
behind him, as did the myriads of sandflies, which at
last drove us, bleeding and nearly vanquished, away.
Just above A'batsho the river presents a noble
appearance, in breadth far exceeding any part we had
seen. Its banks are clothed with tall graceful
palms, and other magnificent trees, while numerous
islands covered with verdure, which everywhere start
CHAP. IV.] i'gbo and igara. 91
into view, pleasantly diversify the scene, and tlie eye
is enlivened by the frequent occurrence of green hills,
in bright relief against the dark .. undulating moun-
tains in the back ground. On the forenoon of the
16th August, the ship was once more run aground,
and having been got off again after the usual delays,
was allowed to remain at anchor. Since entering the
river the master had never once been out of the ship,
but this afternoon he announced his intention of
going himseK to sound. Accordingly, but not until
after dinner, he started in the gig, which was well
stored with great coats, cigars, and interpreters, and
after an absence of an hour-and-a-half he retm'ned,
shaking his head ominously, and remarking that we
were awkwardly placed, and that he had anticipated
this for several days, but said he should examine the
channel again next day. I, however, ascertained that
four fathoms could always be found, but that he had
endeavoured to search for shallow rather than for deep
water. Our observations next morning were taken
on a little isolated patch of sand, so soft that it would
hardly bear the weight of the artificial horizon, and
as we were retm*ning we met Mr. Taylor, who had by
this time finished his breakfast, setting out on his
voyage of discovery. He reached the ship again
about sunset, and after due refreshment requested an
interview with me, when he stated that he considered
it imjjossihle for the ship to advance any fiu'ther.
Having made him repeat this opinion in the hearing
of Mr. May, I told him that I completely differed
92 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [cuap. iv.
from him, and should therefore reheve him from
charge of the vessel, and try to take her up myself.
Not anticipating such a reply, he tried to modify his
opinion, but this I would not permit, so he asked
Mr. May and myself to come below and talk the
matter over with his chief officers. From them, with
the exception of a junior supercargo, he received no
encouragement, and as I continued firm in my deter-
mination, he made up his mind to get out of his
scrape with the best grace he could, announcing that
for peace sake he would yield the point, and dropping
some hints, meant to be awfully significant, about
mutiny and piracy, retired to his beloved couch
and cigar.
A record of squabbles of this kind is by no means
pleasant, and certainly cannot be entertaining, but I
have felt it necessary to record the reasons which
obliged me to take such strong steps. We had been
thirty-six days in the river, and had not reached
Dagbo, the point attained by Allen and Oldfield
under trying circumstances twenty-one years before.
Numerous, most unjustifiable delays had taken place,
and were daily recurring. Disputes between the
master and his officers were constantly taking place,
so as to render everyone uncomfortable. The season
was rapidly advancing, and if some decisive measures
had not been at once adopted, the expedition would
certainly have proved a failure, and there then Avould
have been no inducement to repeat the experiment.
All these obstructions and impediments were most dis-
CHAP. IV ] i'gbo and igaea. 93
tinctly attributable to Mr. Taylor, who had repeatedly
exhibited a most lamentable amount of apathy and
indecision, besides displaying great lack of judgment,
and an unpardonable want of interest in our success.
Nor were the direct interests of his employer, Mr. Laird,
better attended to ; he never went ashore, nor made
any commercial inquiries, all the purchases made
having been exclusively effected by Dr. Hutchinson.
I was tired of ordering, of stimulating, and of com-
plaining, all attempts to rouse the man even to
ordinary exertion having been failures. It was useless
to desire him to perform what in his opinion was
impossible, besides which he had expressed it as his
belief that we had now reached the end of the river,
which hereabouts expanded into a large lake. On
all these considerations, I looked on myself as
absolutely obliged to have recourse to the means I
have mentioned, and fully justified in assuming the
entire responsibility and direction. I therefore told
Mr. Harcus, the chief mate, a most praiseworthy and
skilful ofiicer, that I should consider him for the
future as sailing-master, that his duties should be to
look after the ship, and attend to the navigation of
the river, a post for which he was admirably qualified.
Other arrangements being completed, I ordered steam
to be ready for a start by seven in the morning.
CHAPTER V.
THE NEW ADMINISTRATION.
Aug. 18.
By daylight I despatched Mr. Ricliards in the
gig to sound, and by seven o'clock the "Pleiad"
was under steam, threading her way along
very circuitous channels. When off Eruko a canoe
came alongside, bringing me a goat from the King of
Bassa, to whom I sent a present in return, promising
a visit when we came down the river. We touched
the ground several times, but easily got off, and by
half-past eleven anchored off Dagbo, certainly by a
rather troublesome and winding passage, but which had
been only the day before pronounced by Mr. Taylor,
after several examinations, as impracticable. A wooding
party was immediately sent ashore, and as there was
abundant depth of water, the steamer was hauled in
close to the bank, which greatly facilitated the shipment
of the fuel. Wood was pm'chased easily and cheaply,
and was pronounced by Mr. Guthrie to be of excellent
quality. Mr. Crowther and I walked through this
little village, now much reduced, and observed numer-
ous plantations of rice, Indian corn, cotton, and
tobacco. Dagbo is the first town in the territory of
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 95
Doma, whicli we were now entering upon, and was
the farthest point reached by the "Alburkah " in 1833.
At night when Mr. May and I landed, we found
mosquitoes so numerous and so active, that we had to
set the Krumen to collect straw and sticks for a fire,
and under the protection of the smoke obtained the
wished-for observations. Next morning Mr. Richards
again went a-head to sound, after which we proceeded
with gradually decreasing waters, until at last it did
not exceed a fathom and a half. Still as this had
been carefully examined we passed on at half speed,
and soon reached a better channel. Stretching from
below Eruko to beyond Dagbo is an extensive group of
large wooded islands, some of them inhabited, to
which I gave the name of the " Admiralty Archi-
pelago." Numerous shoals and sandbanks rendered
our navigation somewhat intricate ; one moment we
might be proceeding nearly at full speed along one
side, carrying four fathoms, and a few minutes after-
wards slowly groping our way along the opposite
shore, the leadsman heaving incessantly, and singing
out " quarter less two," or " half one." We were
gradually approaching the Doma hills, which, though
not high, are prettily rounded, and clothed, not hid, by
fine foliage ; the centre peak, which is about the highest,
I named after the officer who first delineated the range,
" Mount Allen." About fom- o'clock, though we
could see no indications of any town, our guide told us
that we were off A'kpoko. We accordingly anchored,
and getting into the gig under his pilotage, speedily
96 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
discovered an opening, quite concealed from the river,
leading into a fine creek, up which we pulled some
two hundred yards, and then landing found ourselves
close to the town. To enter we had to cross a ditch,
some six feet deep, by three small trunks of trees
thrown loosely over. On the further side was a
narrow gateway closed up after dark by cross-stakes.
The people, especially the younger portion, seemed
rather alarmed, but were at length satisfied by the
assurances of our guide, who as a trader had been
here before, and had numerous acquaintances. We
went at once to the house of the headman, who,
coming to meet us, asked us into a kind of reception
court, where mats were spread for us. When all the
spectators had paid their humble respects, Zuri
came forward, bending lowly on his knees, throwing
dust on his head, and repeating ten or a dozen times
a short formal salutation, which elicited from the chief
a corresponding number of acknowledgments. He
then delivered a message from A'ma-A'boko concern-
ing us, which was well received, after which I paid
him the usual compliments, and told him the purport
of our visit. I gave him a present of red cloth and
calicoes, and received from him a fine goat. Seeing
people gathering around us with various articles for
sale, I said that if they came off at once with us, we
would deal with them, to which all present consented.
As had been our custom ever since leaving the Con-
fluence, I made inquiries after two white travellers,
but could hear tidings of none. The chief, whose
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 97
name is Magaji, is about forty years old, and is an
intelligent, good-tempered looking man. We ascer-
tained that no person in A'kpoko had ever seen white
men previously, which accounted for the alarm our
presence had at first caused. A'kpoko is situated at
the foot of one of the Doma hills, and was by far the
cleanest and driest town we had visited. On return-
ing on board we were followed by numerous canoes,
bringing ivory, fowls, eggs, and limes; Shea-butter
is said to be plentiful, but none was produced. With
these people a brisk trade was carried on for long after
dark, and many purchases were made.
Hitherto we had invariably kept quite stationary on
the Sundays, but, considering the rapid advance of
the season, and the vast amount of work in store for
us, I felt that I would not be justified in remaining
at rest ; I therefore determined to proceed during at
least part of the day, and accordingly got under
steam by six o'clock. A long island, nearly
two miles in extent, on which we had landed the night
previous for observations, was named after the oldest
of British Admirals, " Sir Charles Ogle's Island."
Beyond this the river took a northerly bend, and we
found a channel with from four to five fathoms. A
group of three islands, which we passed in this reach, I
named after a celebrated traveller, though in far other
climes. Sir John Richardson. About nine o'clock the
water shoaled very suddenly in three casts of the lead
from seven fathoms to two, and before the engine
could be well stopped we were aground, but getting
98 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
off without difficulty we anchored, and giving the men
time to clean themselves, rigged the church for ser-
vice. In the afternoon the Krumen having had three
or four hours' rest, we again weighed anchor and
steamed along a troublesome channel until dark. We
passed several villages, chiefly on the right bank, but
none of any size. We got the names of Otia, Ayati,
and Zuwo, on the north side, and Aghadumo on the
south. The following mornina; we had a very
Aug. 21. . . , . .,
heavy dew and a thick mist, lasting until sun-
rise, after which we had to proceed cautiously, keeping
the gig a-head sounding for a considerable distance.
Two finely wooded islands, which we passed, were
named respectively, " Isabella Island," and " Darwin's
Island." We were aground several times, and on
one occasion had to shift the deck cargo, and use a
kedge. By the carelessness of one of the men a warp
got entangled in the fan, which obhged us to anchor,
rig sheers, and hoist the fan out of the water, after
which it was too late to do much more work. The
afternoon had been lowering, and just before dark a
line of dark, muddy water was seen coming down the
river, being the first indication of the approaching
rise. This was attended with a slight squaU, and as
there were signs of a tornado, all requisite precautions
were taken. We escaped, however, very well, merely
experiencing a heavy thunder shower shortly after
midnight.
Our fuel was becoming exhausted, and as we
could see no wooding spot near, I became anxious
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 99
about tlie means of replenishing our stock. A town
named O'jogo was said to be not far distant, where
good wood was reported to be abundant, for which
we therefore pushed on as rapidly as the very trouble-
some navigation permitted. For nearly two days it
was one incessant scene of getting aground, laying
out anchors and kedges, shifting cargo, emptying and
refilling the boilers, and sounding in the boats ; but
finally, by dint of considerable exertion, and of much
labour on the part of the Kru-boys, we got into a deeper
channel, and shortly afterwards anchored off
,. . . Aug. 23.
O'jogo, a pretty little town situated on the
eastern extremity of a rather extensive island. Mr.
Richards, who had been a-head in the gig, returned on
board with the intelligence that two white men were
reported to have been very lately in a neighbouring
town, on hearing which I immediately went ashore to
see the chief. The village was at first rather empty
and deserted, but we found that this was owing to a
number of the inhabitants having been alarmed at the
unprecedented, and to them inexplicable, appearance
of a steamer in their waters, and having taken refuge
in the adjoining woods. On arriving at the chief's
residence, mats were spread for us under a wide-
spreading tree, and presently the chief himself made
his appearance; a fine-looking, rather tall, elderly
man, carrying in his hand a long stick, from which
was suspended a small brass bell, which he rang
whenever he heard anything that pleased him. He
expressed his thankfulness that white men had
H 2
100 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chaf. v.
reached his town, and hoped that we should prove
his friends. I then asked him if it was the case that
some strangers were near O'jogo, on which he said it
was quite true, some white men had been at Keana,
and that he believed they were still there. I informed
him that one of our objects in coming up the river
was to enquire after two travellers, and that as these
might possibly prove to be the persons whom we
sought, I should like either to go or to send a mes-
senger to this place. The chief said he would despatch
a messenger of his own, and, if I liked, one might go
from me at the same time. Both Mr. May and myself
were very anxious to visit Keana, believing that we
could get our business much more quickly settled
personally than by any deputy, besides being able to
see a good deal of the country ; but the chief advised
us not to go, because there would be much detention,
as we should have to stop at all the towns and villages
we passed, to visit the chiefs, and to be looked at.
I therefore thought of our Igbegbe party, and the
two headmen expressing their willingness to proceed,
I selected them for the purpose. The chief, whose
names are O'robo and Amishi, and also as king of the
district, O'jogo, said that as soon as we had gone
away he would call a council of his headmen, and
make the necessary arrangements ; so, not to cause
any delay, we at once left, having as usual exchanged
presents. A Keana-man walked to the beach with
us, telling us that he had very lately returned from
that town, where he had himself seen the two
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATIOlSr. 101
strangers, who were living in tents, and he described
the one as a broad-faced man with a beard, and the
other as younger and more hghtly made. I asked
him on board, and getting Petermann's large atlas of
the "Expedition to Central Africa," showed him the
frontispiece, on which he at once selected the engrav-
ing of Dr. Barth, saying that was one of the faces,
only the beard w^as wanting, and he then hesitated
between the portraits of Drs. Overweg and Vogel, but
at last selected the latter. This appeared so satisfac-
tory, that I determined to remain until at least I
could hear from Keana, and I gave my informant,
Os4bo, a present for the good news he had brought.
Early the next morning Mr. Crowther and I visited
O'robo to try to hurry movements, no easy task, and
at length, by dint of urging, persuading, and bribing,
got matters into a fair train. I then gave Zuri a
letter for the " white men," a present for the King
of Keana, and 8000 cowries for the subsistence of his
party while travelling. At their own urgent request
I gave them also a couple of muskets, to fire a salute
on arriving at Keana, on which they promised that,
although the regular journey was four days, they
would perform it in three. This business being
settled I got the chief to pay us a visit on board,
and was rather surprised that, although he had never
seen Europeans before, one of his first requests was
for something to drink. As there was very little
firewood in the village, we looked out for good
wooding spots, and having found one set all hands
102 NAERATIYE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
to work. We then proceeded to make a further in-
spection of O'jogo, which is of very limited extent,
washed by the river on the one side, and surrounded
by dense forests, among which were numerous mag-
nificent oil palms, of which the inhabitants make no
use. Numbers of monkeys were seen gambolhng
among the trees, some displaying most wonderful
feats of agility. I observed one in particular glide
suddenly along a slender branch, and spring from the
end of it to another tree, and this at the height of
at least thirty feet from the ground.
Just opposite to O'jogo, on the southern side of
the Binue, lived a strange tribe named " Mitshi," of
whom we had heard once or twice further down the
river, as Misi or Mishi, and who were described as
a lawless set of cannibals. During one of our visits
to O'jogo we met several of them, who had come
across by canoe, and whose appearance certainly
partially justified the accounts which had reached our
ears. Wild in look, and ruder in dress, greatly
tattooed, and carrying constantly with them their
bows and arrows, these men seemed perfect imper-
sonifications of savages. Yet, when spoken to,
though at first rather shy, they entered freely into
conversation with us ; but they were unwilhng to
tell us much about themselves. At O'jogo they have
not a very good character, being considered quarrel-
some and treacherous, and we were accordingly warned
against them, which, however, we fancied was done
out of jealousy, as there had been a rather serious
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 103
dispute between the two parties, only a few months
previously, when several men had been killed on both
sides. Wishing, therefore, to see more of this
singular race, we selected a morning when a market
was to be held at one of their villages, about a mile
from our anchorage. As interpreter we had engaged
a woman named Ontise, from O'jogo, who was the
chief's sister, and occupied the important office of
President of the Board of Trade, being supposed to
attend to all commercial affairs, regulate prices, and
watch the markets ; but, when she came on board,
she became afraid, and declined going, saying the
Mitshis would not like to see so many W'hite men.
But on our visit we resolved to go without her, and
accordingly Mr. Crowther, Dr. Hutchinson, and
myself started in the gig, and pulled towards the
town. The moment was inopportune, for, as we
approached the place, we heard cries and lamentations,
and saw numerous canoes shoving off in a very
hurried manner, from one of the occupants of which
we learnt that the Mitshis had, on some trifling
pretext, plundered the market and driven off the
O'jogo people. The landing-place was at the foot of
a steep bank, of some eight or ten feet high, on the
top of which was a number of natives, variously
armed, in an extremely excited state. Thinking,
possibly, that w^e had come to assist our O'jogo
friends, they forbade our approach, and, as we drew
closer in, bent their bows and drew their swords. I
attempted to speak to them, and showed them
104. NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap, v,
some presents I had with me for them ; but to no
purpose. Their numbers momentarily increased, and
theii' actions became more menacing. I had no arms
with me, and even if I had it w^ould have been most
impolitic to employ them, my resolve being never to
take to them on any pretext, except in absolute self-
defence ; besides which, a quarrel at such a time
might have been fruitful in bad results in years to
come, and would most certainly have left an un-
favourable impression. The boat's crew now got
alarmed, seeing the arrows and spears aimed at them,
not more than ten or a dozen yards off, and, in their
confusion, could scarcely use their oars. The in-
terpreter t^o got frightened, which increased our
difficulties, as we had now no means of parleying
with our opponents. Seeing that it was of no use to
delay longer, and that a further attempt at landing
would only end in a scuffle, I resolved to forego our
visit, trusting to some future opportunity. On en-
quiring afterwards at O'jogo for some explanation of this
strange scene, I learnt that such conduct was by no
means unfrequent. O'robo told me that the Mitshis
were originally a set of slaves, who had rebelled, and,
settling in part of A'kpoto, had greatly increased in
numbers, had become independent, were spread over
an extensive territory, and were very troublesome
neighbours. Then- language was quite peculiar, and
did not resemble any of the surrounding dialects.*
* Koelle gives specimens of it under the name of Tiwi ; others are
printed in the appendix to Crowther's Journal.
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 105
The village at which we had tried to land was called
" Akpama," and a little further up was another called
" Wantili ; " but each one is independent of the
other. From this latter village we met, the same
afternoon, several men, who appeared very friendly ;
and, not more than three days afterwards, we fell in
with, in O'jogo, the very chief who had so opposed
our landing at Akpama. When questioned as to his
reasons for his behaviour, he said that then he did
not know much about us, but fancied we might be
coming to take part against them, and further, that
at that moment he could not have answered for the
conduct of his people. I explained to him our wishes
in going to visit him, and asked him to come on
board and see us, which he promised to do, saying
everything now was settled and understood, and he
would tell his countrymen to trade with us. I believe
that this unfortunate tribe, being against everyone,
and everyone being against it, has rendered it ex-
tremely suspicious of any visitors, theii- rude minds
not being able to comprehend anything beyond war
and rapine, except trade, which they hold to mean
every man enriching himself, when possible, at the
expense of his neighbour. The Mitshis, as far as we
could judge, are all wdlder and less intelligent than
any of the other African races with whom we have
had intercourse, except the Baibai Djukus. Their
skins are usually, but not invariably dark, and the
negro profile is w^ell marked. Over each eyebrow
is a series of short perpendicular cuts, and on
106 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORmG VOYAGE. [cRAr. v.
each cheek they have usually a curved incision, thus
"^vG) ; some are also marked on the arms and
the sides, with various devices. Their clothing is
but scanty, and the head is kept uncovered. Their
arms are spears, short broad-pointed swords, and
bows and arrows ; the scabbards, made of light-
coloured goatskin, are often prettily ornamented with
indigo and camwood.
A great commotion was caused in O'jogo, one
afternoon, by Mr. May's measuring a base line along
the shore, for taking the breadth of the river by
triangulation. The chief, with the heads of the war
department, and several privy councillors, came down
in great tribulation, supposing this was some pre-
paratory step on our part to taking possession of his
dominions. It took a long time to satisfy his doubts
and anxieties, the explanation being rendered the
more difficult from trigonometry and surveying not
having formed a part of his early studies, but we gave
him to understand that we were only measuring the
river to know where to find deep water the next time
we paid him a visit. The very same evening,
our movements again excited alarm, as we were
ashore for observations, having with us, as was our
custom, our lantern. It was then very hard to per-
suade these exalted personages that we were not
practising the black art, for what other reason could
be assigned for our gazing at the stars, and bowing
our heads towards the earth? We quieted their
apprehensions for the time, but so strong was the
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 107
impression, that next morning the old chief sent off
a deputation to confer with us concerning these
mysterious rites. To prevent all further disquietude
I immediately went and called upon O'robo, and by
Mr. Crowther's kind assistance, managed to explain
our proceedings in a manner intelligible to the royal
comprehension. This important business being finally
settled, the chief introduced us to two embassies,
from towns along the river, sent to O jogo to make
enquiries about the strange ship which had been
reported to have made its appearance in the river.
One of these, headed by two chiefs, named Akando
and Akpake, was from Jefulla, the King of A'kpa,
while the other envoy, Gabidoku, came on behalf of
Mohamma, King of Kondoku. Being about to go
on board, 1 invited these people to come with us and
inspect our vessel, so that they might judge for them-
selves. We became great friends with O'robo, who
sent us, as presents, on dificrent occasions, large
messes of food prepared according to the rules of
Doma cookery. One of these closely resembled what
is known to Europeans along the coast as fufu, and
the other what is there also called palaver sauce.
The first is made properly of yams, which ought to be
cut into small pieces, dried, pounded, and boiled,
and then made up into small rounded masses ; but
where yams are scarce or not to be had, it is pre-
pared from Indian or dawa (dower) corn treated
much in the same way, but which does not eat so
nicely. The sauce is a dark-coloured, oily stew,
lOS NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
made from fish, fowl, meat, or all together, with palm
oil, seasoned with capsicum, and often coloured green
with the dried leaves of the baobab tree. Its appear-
ance is rather against it, but when carefully prepared
is far from unpalatable, and by the natives is
reckoned a most savoury compound. The orthodox
method of partaking of these delicacies is to have the
fufu in one calabash, and the sauce in another ; then
taking a piece of the yam in the fingers, dip it into
the sauce, and transfer the whole to the mouth. In
some of the more refined places, as at Igbegbe, little
pellets of rice, strongly peppered, are served up
in the palaver sauce, and render the dish more
piquant.
One forenoon Mr. May and Mr. Harcus, while
pulling about in the gig, being near Akpama, landed,
and having been very well received, succeeded in
inducing the old chief whom I had invited to accom-
pany them on board, and though a little shy at first,
he soon gathered confidence, but no sooner was this
visit known at O'jogo than another warning about
the Mitshi character was sent to us. As another
market was to be held next day, I wished to attend
to see the articles for sale, and to endeavour to
purchase a bullock, which we had been told was
procurable on that side of the river. Aliheli, our inter-
preter, tried to persuade me not to go myself, and at
last came and seizing hold of my hand, said, " You
must not go, it no be good ;" so finding from this that
there was still some prejudice against white men, and
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 109
believing that my presence would only defeat our
object, I gave up the idea. Aliheli w^nt, but before
he would start, insisted on having a pistol with him.
He returned in the afternoon, having only been able to
buy a dozen very inferior yams, and he reported that the
people had behaved badly to him, and tried in the most
open manner to steal some handkerchiefs from him.
I examined the stock in trade of a woman who was
going to the market, and found it to consist of a little
antimony, some Indian and dawa corn, and some
small bags of salt. These latter contained in each
about a small breakfast-cupful, the selling price of
which was from 250 to 300 cowries. It was dark-
gray coloured, and was said to be obtained from
the neighbourhood of a small lake near Keana.
Day after day passed away, and still no tidings
from our messengers. Rumours of arrivals from
Keana frequently reached our ears, but, on enquiry,
were found to have no foundation, and were raised,
I have no doubt, to induce us to prolong our stay.
I began to get restless and impatient, and at length,
after eight days' delay, resolved, as my health was
better adapted for the journey than that of any of the
other Europeans, to go to Keana myself. I accord-
ingly went to the chief to make arrangements for a
guide, and had settled to start next morning, when my
plans were suddenly altered. Osabo, the man who
had originally given us the intelligence about the
white travellers, visited us again this forenoon, and
for the twentieth time, we made him repeat his story,
110 NARKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
and having it rendered word after word, discovered that
a most important mistake had been made in the
translation. Instead of his having reached O'jogo
six days before our arrival, we now found that he
had been there for six weeks, and it was previous to
that date that he had seen the mysterious strangers ;
a view of the case which totally upset all our prior
calculations. Supposing the travellers to have been
Drs. Earth or Vogel, it was unlikely that they would
have remained nearly two months in one town, where
no effort had been made to detain them ; moreover,
if they were really the personages, the report of our
stay at O'jogo must have long ere now reached
them. Further delay would seriously have affected
the ulterior results of our voyage, so I came to the
determination to allow two more days, and finally to
depart at daylight on the Monday morning following.
Heavy rain had been falling, and the river was
decidedly rising, a difference of upwards of five feet
having been measured since the day we anchored.
Our wooding party had been hard at work, and had
been successful in getting excellent fuel, but the
quantity cut was not great, owing to the hardness of
the wood, and the imperfect tools they had to use.
The only wood-cutting implements which the master
had supplied, were small hand-hatchets, of poor
material, the edges and handles of which were con-
stantly breaking, and the labom* of cutting with them
was immense. Often have I watched a tall muscular
Kriiman, who, after hitting away with all his might.
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTKATIOJSr. Ill
and perspiring at every pore, could only succeed in
getting through a small branch, which would have
been readily severed by two or three blows from a
good American axe. We had not a single cross-cut
saw, but one sledge-hammer, which was borrow^ed
from the engine-room, and the only wedges w^ere such
as Mr. Guthrie managed to manufacture from spare
soft-ii'on fire-bars, and which seldom, if ever, exceeded
an inch-and-a-half in thickness. The wonder is, that,
with such exceedingly faidty and imperfect tools, we
ever managed to cut the quantity of wood we did.
Visitors from towns further up the river continued to
pour in upon ils, and among others a man who had lost
one foot and part of his leg by the bite of a crocodile,
for whom Mr. Guthrie undertook to construct a
serviceable wooden leg.
Oiu- detention at O'jogo was not lost to us. Mr.
May, with Mr. Guthrie's assistance, had constructed,
out of a spare brass engine-cock with a double joint,
a sextant-stand, which greatly facilitated him in the
use of that instrument. Repeated observations of
various kinds enabled our position to be fixed astro-
nomically with considerable accuracy : the chrono-
meters were carefully re-rated ; the river was measured
and surveyed, and the dip of the needle ascertained.
Mr. Crowther got a vocabulary prepared of the
Doma, or as it is also termed the Arago language, and
also secured a few Mitshi words ; and, lastly, it
enabled us to become well acquainted with the habits
and disposition of the people, and to ascertain the
112 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
resources of the country. Doma, formerly powerful,
has become of late a declining state, and has lost its
independence. The principal provinces are Agatu,
the westernmost district along the river, in which
Dagbo and A'kpoko are situated ; Doma proper, in the
centre and more inland ; and Keana to the eastward
of these. Doma and Agatu have been subject to the
Fulatas of Zaria for ten years, while Keana pays
tribute to Bautshi. O'jogo, formerly in Doma proper,
has been for some years tributary to Keana, which
was brought about as follows. A man named E'gu,
son of a King of Doma, was killed while residing at
O'jogo. His mother was a Keana woman, so his father
applied to the king of Keana to help him to avenge
his death, and the matter was finally ended by O'jogo
being seized by, or ceded to, Keana. Doma at one
time paid an annual contribution to Igara, and Kedna
was formerly to some extent tributary to Wukari.
The language of this district is peculiar, and has
affinities principally with the Nupe. The men are
usually above the average height, many being six feet
or upwards in stature. In person they are generally
spare, their skins are usually very dark, the facial
angle is considerable, and they are very intelligent.
Among them I observed a peculiar shape of skull very
frequently, namely elongated and greatly compressed.
Many elderly persons of both sexes are to be seen,
indicative of health and longevity. The hair of the
men is usually kept wholly or partially close cut or
shaved; the beard seldom makes any show until
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 113
about the age of thirty, and seldom ever exceeds two
or three inches in length. Many of the women stain
the eyelids with antimony, and a few colour the whole
skin with camwood. The dress consists of a simple
hip cloth, over which is another piece of cloth fastened
round the waist, and reaching variously from just
above the knee to half-way down the leg, and in cold
weather a thin piece is thrown loosely over the
shoulders, or by those who can afford them, Hausa
tobes are worn. Children use no covering at aU until
about six or seven years of age, and they usually have
round the neck, the wrists, and the hips, strings of
beads or cowries, as amulets. Women wear a large
piece of cloth from the waist to the knees, leaving the
breast generally uncovered. The principal ornaments
in fashion are armlets or wristlets, either fine brass
ones bought at the Confluence, or smaller ones
from the Hausa markets or from Wukari ; but
sometimes they are made by loosely twisting round
the arm thick brass wire rods. Rings are mostly of
brass or copper, more rarely of ivory; anklets are
seldom worn ; necklaces of beads or of pebbles, or
charms of cowries, are in constant use. The ear-
ornaments are usually small bits of pebble thrust
through the lobe. The men generally carry, as arms,
swords from twelve to twenty inches in length, slung
over the shoulder ; a sharp-pointed knife, with a hollow
handle, through which the hand is thrust ; and also
long-handled spears with pointed heads. Less fre-
quently bows and arrows appear, these being reserved
114 NARRATIYE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
for warfare or hunting. I saw one man with a rough
leather sheath, made of bullock's-hide, extending from
the Avrist nearly to the elbow, to prevent the skin
being chafed by the bow-strings, while on the right
forefinger was worn a short iron thimble for the
same purpose. The form of salutation, when an
inferior presents himself, is by kneeling down, bending
the head towards the ground, throwing dust against
the forehead and on the head, and repeating some
words of greeting, which ceremony, if the comer be
of sufficient consequence, is repeated by the other
party. But if two friends meet on the road they
merely shake hands or embrace each other. There
is no general national mark in Doma, but many of
the inhabitants are seen with ten or a dozen
curved lines along each cheek; and among people
from Ke^na, especially women, I have noticed,
under the left eye, two rows of very short perpen-
dicular lines, thus, '^^Y/f"/"!'""nini'ini!ml Polygamy is here,
as elsewhere, customary, but is not carried to any
very great extent. One singular custom prevails, at
least near O'jogo. The sisters of the chief never
marry, but are allowed to select any man they choose,
and to give him up when they get tii'ed of him. We
saw one woman who had a family of eleven children,
most of whom had different fathers. A very curious
currency exists in Doma, and is known as far as
Katshina. It is of iron made in the form of a small
hoe, with a long spike at one end, thus.
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 115
These are tied up in bundles of a dozen, or there-
abouts, and thirty-six are said to be the ordinary
price of a slave. This strange money is in Doma and
in Kororofa called Akika, by the Mitshi I'bia, and in
Hausa Agelema.* With this, as with most other African
tribes, the early part of the evening is the time when
most of the food is prepared. It is then that their
corn is ground, the bread baked, the fish or meat
cooked, and their beer brewed; all these operations
being exclusively in the hands of the female part of
the population. To grind their corn a trunk of a
small tree is hollowed out, into which the grain is put,
while two, or sometimes three women, standing
around, with long heavy sticks beat it and pound it,
delivering their blows in excellent time; it is then
roughly sifted and reduced to meal, by rubbing it
between two stones. I observed a curious game
played by boys at jogo. A little conical pit, some
three or four inches deep, is dug in the sand, at the
bottom of which is placed on its base a shell, prepared
by removing the body whorl and mouth of a species
of Lwiacolarius, and leaving the conical spire. A
number of boys sit round, all holding in their hands
a number of similar shells, and each in his turn
spins one of these into the pit ; most of which, when
they cease turning, fall resting on the side. At length
one falling settles on its base, apex upwards, the for-
tunate possessor of which wins all the shells which
happen to be at the moment in the hole.
* Vide Appendix B.
I 2
116 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
Crocodiles are very abundant in the vicinity of
O'jogo, and are frequently killed by the natives.
Another allied and very singular inhabitant of the
river is a False- Gavial {Mecistops), of which my
assistant purchased a skull for me, the only one we
saw or heard of during our voyage. I got some
specimens of a fine vulture {Gypolderax Angolensis),
well distinguished by its clearly-marked, showy
plumage.
About noon on the Saturday before we left this
place, Mr. Taylor said to me he had been thinking of
having one of the trade canoes sent to the Confluence
to trade until our return. To this I made, of course,
no objection, only wondering how such a plan had
not been sooner thought of, and not left to the very
last moment. The canoe was at some distance
wooding, so I at once recalled it, had it cleaned out
and made ready, and a cargo having been got ready
by great exertion on the part of Dr. Hutchinson, it
was almost aU shipped by night. The next morning
I selected eight Krumen and three others, an ample
crew, and besides quite as many as could be spared,
though more were urgently asked for. At Mr. Taylor's
request, I allowed the second engineer to accompany
the canoe, Mr. Guthrie finding that he could be well
spared. Mr. Crawford, the junior supercargo, was
selected to have charge of the trading concerns, so the
party consisted of thirteen in all, with an easy run
down before them with the stream. While getting
ready their provisions, a cask of sugar was found to
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION, 117
be missing, wliich caused a great commotion, so
mucli so, that the canoe did not leave us until some
miles above O'jogo, in the hopes of the lost com-
modity turning up. As soon as I heard the report,
finding that only six pounds of sugar were in the
ship, I immediately ordered it to be put aside in case
of sickness, and until our retmii to Fernando Po we
were entirely without this luxury ; there the missing
cask was discovered in a warehouse, having been left
behind in the confusion of starting.
Above O'jogo the current ran nearly three knots,
the river being for a short distance confined between
banks, behind which was finely wooded rising land,
where also oil-palms were noted for the last time.
Along the river edge, generally partially embedded
in the banks, were large unshapely looking blocks of
rock, bearing evident marks of igneous action. A
village on the right bank, named Ajama, is the first
staere on the road to Keana. About noon we an-
° . . Sept. 4.
chored ofi" a considerable town on the same side,
where we landed and visited the chief. The town is
called Rogan-Koto, and though in Doma, is an I'gbira
settlement, whence its name ; Koto being the Hausa
synonyme of I'gbira, and Rogan meaning huts or
sheds. By the inhabitants it is known as Ajewon-
I'gbira, but the former is its more usual designation.
It was first built about twenty-eight years ago, and
though nominally independent, yet pays tribute, a
kind of black-mail, to Keana. It is surrounded by
a wall, with numerous loop-holes for firing arrows
118 NARKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING YOYAGS. [chap. v.
through. The year previous to our visit this town
had suffered severely from an attack by a party from
L^fia Beriberi, whose return was greatly dreaded.
Rogan-Koto is by the Djiiku inhabitants of Kororofa
called "Pumavo," and by the Mitshis "Djashi-
A'gbira," which latter means " I go to I'gbira." Jada,
the chief, regretted much that we could not make any
stay, but promised to trade with us on our return.
We here met the man for whom Mr. Guthrie had
made a wooden leg, so we asked him on board to
have it fitted on, which was done, much to his delight.
The horn' and a-half that we remained at anchor off
this place was not wasted by its pushing inhabitants,
many of whom came off in haste, bringing with them
any articles they had to dispose of. In Rogan-Koto
I observed some sandstone rock, the strata being
nearly horizontal, and the only instance in the Binue,
where secondary rocks were visible near the river.
On the south side was still the Mitshi country and
nearly opposite Rogan-Koto is one of their towns,
Abagwa, from which people frequently come over for
trading purposes. On a large island immediately to
the eastward are two towns, named Kondoko and
A'kpa, being those parts from which messengers had
been sent to inquire about the " Pleiad." They are in-
habited by people from Kororofa, and being the first
place along the river where Djuku tribes are met,
they are known in I'gbira, Igara, and Nupe, as
A'kpa. About three o'clock we had to anchor to get
up steam, so Mr. May and I took advantage of the
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADSIINISTRATIOX. 119
short delay to get a set of sights, and accordingly
landed on a sandy beach. While Mr. May was ar-
ranging the artificial horizon a band of natives, with
spears and bows and arrows, from A'kpa, who had been
for some time watching us, rushed towards us, but
when within some half a dozen yards of us they sud-
denly stopped, on which I went towards them, holding
out my hand, and showing that I was quite unarmed.
Seeing this they laid down their spears, and on our
making signs to them to keep quiet while we made
our observations, they all knelt down, regarding us
with great astonishment. We had nothing to give
them but a few bright glass buttons, which, however,
pleased them much. Further on in the afternoon we
passed another large, walled town, inhabited partly
by Djuku, partly by I'gbira people. This, which is
named Abitshi, is said to have been founded about
forty-five years ago, by a band of slaves from Idda ;
it forms the easternmost limit of the range of canoes
from the Confluence, and with Rogan-Koto, is the
principal place where the commodities of the upper
and lower Binue are exchanged. It is situated on the
west side of an extensive island, which I have named
*' Clarendon Island." During the greater part of this
day we had seen in the distance the peaks of two
hills on the Doma side of the river, and as the day
advanced their outline became more and more distinct.
They are not very elevated, the highest not exceeding
from 450 to 500 feet, and the other being from seventy
to eighty feet less, but from the country to the westward
120 NAEK ATI VE OF AN EXPLORING YOYAGE. [chap. v.
of them being flat, they are visible from a considerable
distance, and form good leading marks. The one I
named " Mount Beecroft," after the lamented gentle-
man who had been expected to head our expedition,
and the other " Mount JEthiope," so called from the
steamer in' which many of his African explorations
were performed. Towards sunset we reached another
long, extended island, nearly in the middle of the
river, and proceeding along its south shore, anchored
abreast of it. From some villagers w^hom Mr. May
and I fell in with, while looking for a landing-place,
we learnt that the eastern boundary of the Mitshi
country is somewhere opposite to this island, which
we named after Captain Washington, the present
distinguished hydrographer of the Admiralty.
The following morning we continued our onward
g coui'se, passing numerous islets-, scattered in
various directions, and seeing several villages on
both sides of the river. A fine range of hills ran nearly
parallel with the river on the north side, one extremity
touching the water. This I entitled the " Ellesmere
Range," while the central peak, some 600 feet in
height, was called " Mount Egerton," and two others
of the hills were denominated " Mounts Latham and
Christison." Judging from the character of the
debris, and from the appearance in some breaks on
their sides, they are composed of unstratified rocks.
Among them is one pretty, little round-topped hill,
covered with a beautiful green sward, w^hicli received
the title of " Mount Jessy." During a temporary
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 131
stoppage, a canoe with a single man ventured alongside,
from whom we learnt that we were noAv in Kororofa,
and that the river is by its inhabitants designated Nil,
but is also known as the Binue. The inhabitants and
language of this extensive territory, which is strictly
confined to the south side of the river, are known as
Djuku. Just beyond the " EUesmere range " the cur-
rent runs very strongly, averaging four knots, and the
river takes a northerly bend. The banks on the
south side are very high, and along the top, pictu-
resquely placed nearly at the foot of a table-mountain,
we could see a village, which we afterwards found to
be A'nyishi. The hill which rises du-ectly from the
water side, attaining an altitude of some 400 feet, was
called "]\Iount Herbert." Behind, and partially
isolated from the "EUesmere range," we discovered
another prettily shaped hill, which I named, after the
naturalist of the voyage of the " Samarang," " Mount
Adams." In this beautiful locality, favoured as it
seemingly is in situation and in soil, secm^ed by its
elevation from the rising of the river, free from
swamps, and abounding in healthy situations, not a
trace of a human habitation could be seen, nor was
there visible the smallest attempt at cultivation.
Many hills near this place have a very peculiar aspect,
some being quite isolated, and rising with steep sides
almost suddenly from flat land near the river. To
one such, on the south side, with a long table-top, I
gave the name of " Mount Trenabie," while another,
on the opposite shore, abrupt towards the south-west.
1 22 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
but sloping to the eastward, I called " Mount Traill,"
after a former esteemed preceptor, now at an age wlien
most others would be seeking repose from the cares and
toils of literature and science, the learned and indefa-
tigable editor of an eighth edition of the "Encyclopaedia
Britannica." Fresh breezes blowing daily up the
stream, we got a spare forecastle awning fitted as a
temporary foresail, which sensibly affected our progress.
Our speed, too, was increased, by having only one of the
iron canoes in tow, the two of them being a great
drag. Though no towns or villages could be seen to
enliven the prospect, yet everything around us wore a
smiling aspect. The river, still upwards of a mile in
breadth, preserved its noble appearance, the neigh-
bouring soil teemed with a diversified vegetation, and
the frequent recurrence of hill and dale pleased and
gratified the eye. Nor was animal life wanting, for
from out mast-head we enjoyed the novel sight of a
large herd of elephants, upwards of a hundred in
number, crossing a little streamlet, not much more
than a mile from us. Two large islands were again
passed, one of which, of a peculiar, somewhat triangular
shape, was named after Admiral Smyth, deeply inter-
ested in all African discovery, while the other, nearly
one enthe forest, received the title of " Hooker
Island," after the no less amiable than distinguished
botanist of Kew.
We had all day been anxiously looking out for signs
of man, and in the afternoon were highlv
Sept. 6. . ^ ° "^
pleased by discovering a large walled town on
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 123
the soutli side, off which we accordingly anchored, and
though it was rather late, I immediately landed. Pre-
vious to our arrival numbers of people had been ob-
served along the banks, but on the approach of the gig
they all disappeared, and when we reached the shore
the only person left to receive us, was a solitary indi-
vidual, who between fear and excitement could hardly
utter a single word. I walked up to him, extending
my hand, which he surveyed most suspiciously, and at
length touched with as much reluctance as he would
a piece of red-hot iron, but finding that it did not
burn him, and that we were quite friendly, he threw
down his spear, and danced and shouted for joy,
exclaiming that he would lead us to the town, which
was at some little distance. Having to pass some
marshy ground, he insisted on carrying me across
some streamlets, shouting all the time at the top of
his voice in Hausa, " White men, white men ! the
Nazarenes have come ; white men good, white men
rich, white men kings ; white men, white men ! " Pre-
sently his shouts were responded to, and we saw a
large band, fully armed, rush along a narrow path,
vociferating wildly. Their approach had certainly
something threatening in its look, so much so that
our boat's crew, getting alarmed, scampered back to
the boat, leaving Mr. May, Mr. Crowther, Dr. Hutch-
inson, and myself, with Mr. Richards, and my assis-
tant, to face the strangers. Even our valiant little
interpreter, Aliheli, felt insecure, as seizing my arm
he whispered hurriedly " We must go back to ship."
124 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
We, however, continued to advance, and presently
encountered the rude-looking throng. On hearing
that we were friends, the leading man first threw
himself wildly into the arms of our conductor, and
then flying headlong against me, grasped my hand
and shook it vehemently. Each one of our party had
his own body of admirers, and in particular Mr, May
was quickly cut off and surrounded, and became a
distinct centre of attraction. Of the remainder of
the crowd, some ran rapidly towards us, presenting
the butt-ends of their spears ; others drew their
bow-strings without arrows in them ; many threw
themselves on the ground and went through an ex-
temporaneous course of gymnastics, and all shouted
aloud. Every one appeared in an ecstacy of delight,
while our guide continued to exert his lungs in such
an extraordinary manner, that we were afraid he would
rupture a blood-vessel, and I am quite certain he got
off cheaply if he had nothing beyond a simple sore-
throat. After this wild welcome had subsided into
some semblance of a merely enthusiastic greeting, I
told the most consequential-looking man that we
wished to visit his king, to whom he at once con-
ducted us. We went along a narrow pathway, only
sufficient for single file, enclosed between tall dawa
corn, the stalks of which waved high over our heads.
Presently we arrived at the gate of the town, strongly
palisaded, and crossed the ditch which surrounded
the walls. Numbers of astonished natives, of all ages
and sexes, lined the way, all the men carrying spears,
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 1 25
swords, knives, and bows and arrows. We soon
reached the king, who, in the centre of a large crowd,
attended by the head men in the place, stood to
receive us under the shade of a wide-spreading tree.
I approached and saluted him, and introduced my
party, with all whom he shook hands, and then
looking upwards said, he thanked God that white men
had come to his country. I rapidly explained to him
our wishes and our objects, adding, that as it w^as
nearly dark, we should pay him a longer visit next
day. Numbers now pressed forwards to shake hands
with us, and about us there could not have been
fewer than from 400 to 500 people, mostly armed.
On our return to our boat we were numerously
escorted, and previous to our embarking I gave our
stentorian friend a handkerchief, and a small snuff-
box, which seemed nearly to overpower him. During
the evening a present of some jars of beer from the
king arrived, and from the messengers we were able
to obtain some particulars about the place. Its name
is Gandiko, and, though in Kororofa, is a Pulo* settle-
ment. It originated in the mission of a Pulo force,
chiefly composed of slaves, to attack Wukari, in which
they failed ; but afterwards, instead of returning, they
preferred founding towns for themselves. They inter-
married with the Djuku, and have since become very
numerous. The district is named Zhibu, and a few
* Pdlo is the correct name for the people often styled FuMta, being
their own designation. In Hausa they are called Fulo and Fulfini; Fulftta
is their Bornuese title.
126 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORmG VOYAGE. [chap. v.
miles further up the river is a town of the same name,
the principal one of these settlements. Close to
Gandiko are two other towns, Gankera and I'bi. The
languages spoken are principally Pulo and Djuku, but
Hausa is also understood by many. About one-
half of the people are nominal Muhammadans, the
remainder being Pagans.
Early next day messengers again came off from
the king to wish us " good morning," and to ask us
when we would be ashore. Heavy rain considerably
retarded our movements, but about half-past nine,
having first sent off a wooding party, we started for
Gandiko. According to custom we first called on the
Geladima, or prime minister, who, on being informed
officially of our object, conducted us to the king's
abode. There we were received in the usual manner,
and having interchanged compliments were about to
discourse on other matters, when the arrival of the
king of Gankera was announced. There seemed to
be some doubts on the minds of the Gandiko mag-
nates whether the royal visitor should be admitted,
but we requested them not to regard our presence, but
to act according to the customs and etiquette of the
place. They were accordingly introduced, after which
I told them we had come from the white man's country
to view this land, to make friends with the chiefs and
the people, and to talk of trade and of improvement.
All present having plainly expressed their approba-
tion, the king said he was convinced that without
intercourse with white strangers his country would
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 127
never flourisli. I then gave A'ma and his Geladima
presents, and requested the king of Ganl^era to send
on board, on which a similar present would be ready
for him. A'ma then requested my acceptance of a
fine sheep and of a large pitcher of beer, after which
we left. Gankera not being far off, we went towards
it, and after a ten minutes' walk through corn-fields
reached it. We found it much to resemble Gandiko,
only that it was larger, and better laid out. In these
towns the huts are less crowded, and have about them
little plots of ground planted with vegetables, being
the first signs of horticulture we had met with. On
the sides and roofs of the huts were trained pumpkins,
gourds, and other cucurbitaceous species, while in their
gardens were numerous plants of ochro {Hybiscus),
and graceful papaws {Carica papaya) with still unripe
fruit. In a little market we found women bartering
beer for bundles of corn of diff'erent kinds. Hearing
that there were horses we asked to see them, and
were accordingly shown several fine Arabs, nicely
groomed and cared for, and in fine condition. In
each stable hung oval-shaped shields, made of
elephants' hides, large enough to cover and protect
both rider and steed. The possession of horses is
one of the distinguishing marks of the Pulo tribes, one
too which adds greatly to their power and to the
terror of their name. Most of the inhabitants were
clad in native-made clothes, but some appeared in
garments made of goat-skins, while a few wore still
more scanty coverings of green leaves. During our
128 NAREATIYE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [ohap. v.
walk we again met the old chief, Garike, who made
me a present of a mat. Annual excursions for the
purpose of collecting slaves are made from these towns
chiefly against the Mitshis, which may account for
the suspicions they entertained of us, especially as
many of the Pulo people are light-coloured. It was
in Gandiko and Gankera that we first met with any
of this noted race, well distinguished from all other
Africans in feature and in figure. Here, from ad-
mixture with Djuku blood, their skins were darker,
and more of the Negro countenance prevailed than in
their own true domains ; and the two chiefs, A'ma and
Garike, had marked Ethiopic faces. The ship was all
day crowded with visitors, and some trade was done,
upwards of a hundred pounds of ivory having been
purchased, chiefly for light calicoes. A Mallam, one
of our guests, gave me secretly, and as an invaluable
present, a small paper with quotations in Arabic from
the Kuran. While on shore, seeing a fruit which was
new to me,* I went to gather some specimens, but
succeeded at the expense of being badly stung by a
multitude of little red ants, diminutive pests capable
of inflicting wounds quite out of proportion to their
magnitude. A Kruman, who assisted me, was so
covered with them that to get rid of them he flung
himself headlong into the river.
We weighed anchor early next morning, and by the
aid of a good breeze went up rapidly. About
noon we anchored ofi" a large town, which we
* A species of Kijelia,
coAP. v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 129
believed to be Zhibu, and some natives being visible on
the banks, Mr. Crowther and I landed to speak to them.
They were at first rather shy, but on my mentioning
that we were desirous of waiting on the king, one
man said he would go and announce us and return as
soon as he could. We therefore pulled on board, and
in about half an-hour three special messengers arrived
to welcome us, and to conduct us when ready. We
therefore started at once, and found on the shore a
large armed escort waiting for us. The town is
situated nearly a mile from the river, on a rising
ground, the country around being well cleared to
allow of an extensive view and to prevent surprise by
an enemy. On our road we encountered a fine speci-
men of African travelling. Right across the path,
extending some twenty or thirty yards in all direc-
tions, was a deep, muddy pool. Double it we could
not, as at either end was a marshy ditch, so we had
to cross it mounted on the shoulders of our Krumen,
who, although mostly tall men, were immersed above
the hips. This little obstruction passed, we proceeded
along a field planted with ground-nuts {AracJds
liypoged), and reaching the gates entered into the city.
The circular huts, with thickly thatched roofs, are
disposed "udth some degree of order and regularity, so
as to form streets, or rather lanes. On approaching
the palace we were requested to halt in a large open
space, fronting a substantial looking building with a
dome-like top, surmounted by a long spire crowned
with an ostrich-egg. Presently an officer approached,
130 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
who from his distingue look and elegant carriage must
have been Lord Chamberlain, or at least Master of
Ceremonies, accompanied by an individual bearing
gracefully in his hand a long white wand, who pro-
bably held the office of Usher of the White Rod.
These evidently important personages advanced on
tip-toe and whispered a communication to the officer
who had conducted us, who, in his tm^n, waving his
arm desired us to follow him. This we did, and
entering the palace precincts passed through an entry
chamber, and proceeding along a winding-passage
reached the reception hall, where we found ourselves
in the august presence of Bohari, ahas Zumbade,
monarch of Zhibu. I advanced and saluting him in
Hausa, shook his hand, which being done by the rest
of the party we seated ourselves on mats. Oiu* inter-
view was much in the usual style, the king expressing
his satisfaction at our arrival, and saying that neither
he nor any of his people had ever seen a white man
before. After talking of trade, we were asked how
long we were going to remain ; to which I replied
that we should stay all next day, but that afterwards
we must try to get farther up the river. The king
said that we should not be able to proceed, as there
were numerous rocks and banks ; but I told him that
nevertheless we should make the attempt. I then
gave him a sword and brass scabbard, a red cloak,
some white calico, and a looking glass, in return for
which he offered a fine sheep and a calabash with
butter. He then retii'ed, and calling on our inter-
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 131
preter asked if we would purcliase slaves. I replied
" certainly not ; " adding that white men did not buy
other men, as they considered that to be wTong and
sinful. Bohari had evidently some idea of this fi-om
his not asking the question openly, but doing it in a
secret manner. He then sent an attendant for a
Hausa tobe, which on his return the man put on Dr.
Hutchinson, he being the tallest, and stoutest of our
party, qualifications which in Africa are held in great
admiration. The king is only a half Pulo, if so much,
and has a sensual disagreeable look. His Geladima
again was a most intelligent, civil man, and extremely
friendly with us. We walked through the town,
which is very clean, and thickly populated, and is
enclosed by strong palisading. The inhabitants are
mostly Moslemin, but have' no mosques, their devo-
tions being performed in the open air. Numbers of
visitors presenting themselves, as there were no
canoes, I kept one of the ship's boats running to
and fro all the afternoon. The country opposite to
us on the north side of the river, was Bdutshi, and
we were told that Kororofa is often, from its capital,
named Wukari, One man who had been up the
river and knew the Faro or Paro, said that a canoe
could go from Zhibu to Hamaruwa in from thirteen
to sixteen days. I inquired for the name Zanfira,
given to the river in Petermann's Atlas, but no one
recognised it. The Kororofa name is, as I have
abeady mentioned, Nu, but the term in more general
use is Binue.
K 2
132 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap v.
Early next morning I went ashore to get a set of
magnetic observations, but was much interrupted by
crowds of curious spectators. A more serious incon-
venience was, that as every one carried with them
steel in some shape or another, the needle vibrated so
much as quite to prevent any reading off, and being
alone I could not by any means manage to keep the
people at a sufficient distance. About eight o'clock
the king rode down, on which I asked him to come
on board, which he declined doing. About an
hour afterwards, as he still remained on the banks,
I sent Mr. Richards to give him another invitation,
which this time he accepted, provided that all the
natives already on board were sent ashore. This
was done, and I then found that his majesty felt
annoyed because some of his subjects had dared to
commence trading before he had returned our visit.
As soon as he reached the ship a salute of three guns
was fired, after which he was led round the ship. He
set his affection on a tumbler and a wine-glass, which
were given him, and he then asked for a bottle of
medicine, which was made up for him. On his re-
turn to terra-firma he was surrounded by courtiers,
some of whom kissed his hands, others his feet, while
the people around clapped their hands. The royal
visit over, business had to be attended to. The
steward went ashore and opened a small market
under a tree, and was most successful in procuring a
good stock of fresh provisions, in the shape of sheep,
goats, fowls and ducks, the latter a large and very
CHAP, v.] THE NEW ADMINISTRATION. 133
delicious bird, closely allied to the Muscovy duck.
Boats were sent to bring off traders and visitors, and
in a short time the decks were crowded. Some
Hausa merchants happened to be passing through
Zhibu at the time of om' arrival, who had been pur-
chasing ivory in Kororofa, and they, of course, pre-
ferred selling it at once to taking it to a distant
market. Dr. Hutchinson, at the close of a busy day,
found that he had pui'chased 620 pounds of ivory,
including many fine teeth of hippopotami. The
goods most in demand were white calico and hand-
kerchief pieces ; cowries were not understood, and
were taken only by the Hausa men. I bought
many ornaments as specimens, chiefly wristlets, rings,
hair-pins, &c., of brass and copper. Corn-fields are
numerous and extensive around Zhibu, the principal
kinds being maize and dawa corn. Gero, which is
also cultivated, is abundant along the river, but is not
to be found to the westward of the Kwora, except in
a few places in Dahomi. The value of these grains
to the African can hardly be properly estimated : they
supply a large portion of his daily food : ground fine
and baked they form his bread ; in moist cakes they
are known as tuo or fufu ; fermented they yield him
beer ; the refuse helps to feed his poultry and his
goats; and in war the commissariat contains principally
heads of maize, previously roasted and mixed with
pepper and salt. Strange to say yams are not grown
here, nor are they to be obtained in any quantity be-
yond Rogan-Koto, from which it may be inferred that
1 34 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. v.
their cultivation is either neglected by or unknown to
the tribes near the river, except those of the I'gbira
race, who, wherever found, either in their own country
or settled in other districts, have always a keen eye
towards the useful, whether in commerce, in the arts,
or in agriculture.
CHAPTER VI.
THE UPPER BfNUE.
We left our ancliorage off Zliibu on the morning of
Sunday the 10th of September, and shortly
„ , ,. , , , 1 Sept. 10.
aiterwards discovered, to the northward, at a
distance inland of from fifteen to twenty miles, a range
of mountains, among which were three distinct peaks,
the highest of which I named Mount Humboldt,
and on the south side we saw, afar off, a curious
isolated conical hill, which was called " Mount Dau-
beny." During our stay at Zhibu, Mr. Harcus had
fitted a spare quarter-deck awning as a square-sail,
and on being tried it was found to answer capitally.
About ten o'clock we anchored for church, and did
not- again proceed until the afternoon. The course
of the river was more winding than usual, and trended
well to the northward; the banks were mostly
marshy, and no traces of villages could be detected.
In the evening we had considerable difficulty in
finding a spot to land on for observations ; but, after
pulling about, got to a grassy islet, with a bank
some four or five feet above the water. We jumped
up, and making our Krumen trample down a clear
136 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING YOYAGE. [chap. vi.
space, planted a stand and fixed the artificial horizon ;
but scarcely had Mr. May taken his sextant in his
hand, when a loud grunt, in most unpleasant
proximity, announced that we were not the only
possessors of the soil. On looking about, we found
we were right in a hippopotamus track, that the
animal was alarmed and wished to get away, and
might at any moment be expected to rush along,
upsetting us and our instruments. Pleasant enough
certainly, but we were even then ignorant of how
highly we had been favoured, as presently a similar
sound of disapproval reached our ears from the
opposite side, and we now discovered that, about
three yards from where we stood, the little path
diverged in two directions, and that each position
was occupied by the enemy. What was to be done ?
If we retreated ignominiously, all chance of ascer-
taining our latitude was gone, as the planet was close
to the meridian, and clouds were forming. A hasty plan
of a campaign was sketched out, in which it was pro-
vided that, should our opponents charge in too great
force, each of us should seize a part of our gear,
dive into the boat, and try to escape in the darkness.
In the meantime, while Mr. May attended to the
scientific and engineering departments, I was sta-
tioned as an advanced corps, to keep the foe in
check, which I efi'ected by means of our invaluable
bull's-eye lantern, the light from which I directed
first along the one path, then along the other. The
minutes certainly seemed unusually prolonged.
CHAP. VI.] . THE UPPER BI NUE. 137
but at length Jupiter was benignant, and con-
descended to shine into the mercury from the other
side of the meridian. The angle was read off and
noted, our traps were secured, and we hastily em-
barked and shoved off ; but we had not got many
yards away, when a loud splash behind us announced
the triumphant descent of the river-horse. Our
anchorage was near the shore, which, during the
night, exposed us to the blood-thirsty attacks of
unusually voracious mosquitoes.
The following day was wet and cloudy, and we
wended our tortuous course among innume-
rable sand-banks and islets. Sometimes the
banks were clad with an elegant fan-palm, not pre-
viously seen, but which became extremely abundant
as we advanced. Another isolated sugar-loaf hill,
rising to the northward to the height of some 400
feet, I named after the amiable and highly gifted Pro-
fessor Edward Forbes, little then dreaming that,
among the first European intelligence I afterwards
received, would be the sad news of his premature,
his irreparable loss.
The landscape now was greatly varied ; instead of,
as formerly, our view being bounded by tree-tops on
both sides, our range of vision was vastly extended.
Nor was it even restricted by the low hills which,
along either side, confined the valley of the river, for,
far beyond, the eye could detect lofty eminences and
mountain peaks. One group, higher by far than any
we had already encountered, was visible along the
138 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vr.
horizon in the extreme south, and from which we
must have been distant from thirty to forty miles.
This Mr. May entitled the Albemarle range, while
two singular-looking peaks were denominated "Mount
Keppel," and " Mount St. Jean d'Acre." At the
western extremity two other high and remarkable
mountains were named Mounts " Herschel " and
"Biot." On the 12th we passed the first affluent
which we had observed since we left the little O'kwa,
below Panda. It is of inconsiderable size and flows
from the southward, but forms at its junction a small
fluviatile delta. We made enquiries afterwards about
it, but could never accurately learn the name. Some
told us that it was called Bankundi, and that a few
miles up it was a small village called Akam, while
others again reversed this, naming the river Ak4m,
and the town Bankundi. Immediately above this
the main river suddenly contracted, until not more
than 200 to 250 yards across, along which the
current ran like a sluice, being from five to six knots.
Although this narrow rapid was not above half a
mile in length, it took us fully three quarters of an
hour to get beyond it, nor could we have managed
it had there not been a little breeze to fill our sails,
as, when under steam alone, when the wind fell, we
just stemmed the current, without advancing an inch.
Further up, the river again widened into a large
stream, and we made more headway. Fuel was
beginning to become scarce, and we began to look
out anxiously for a place to get a supply. No good
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI'nUE. 139
wooding spot could be seen from the mast-head ; so,
about noon, we anchored opposite to a place where
were some small trees, and hauling alongside the
bank, sent all hands on shore. In spite of several
heavy showers a good deal was cut before night ;
but it was green and small, and we were obliged to
remain all next day to chop it up fit for the fires,
now a very laborious operation, as the hatchets were
much impaired by continual use. Our anchorage
was at a very peculiar spot, as just ahead a double
stream poured upon us ; one, the smaller of the two,
came nearly directly from the east, while the other
ran from the northward, doubling a long projecting
cape, which was named Point Lynslager. We
subsequently ascertained that some miles further up
the river diverged into two branches, enclosing a
wide, irregular island. On this point, where some
observations were taken, we found some very recent
human footsteps, probably of natives who had landed
from a canoe. Some specimens were here shot of a
Skimmer, the Bhpichops orientalis of Riippell, with
its singular projecting lower mandible. The green
wood burning badly, little steam could be kept up,
and our advance was slow, and we were further
retarded by two tornadoes, each of which obliged us
to anchor for a time. One law 'attending these
heavy squalls is, that near a river they almost in-
variably follow its course and blow down it, and
thus their direction is, locally, very varied. We
encountered a good many during our stay, and did
] 40 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
not observe a single exception to this. Their general
origin is from the eastward, but when they approach
a stream they deviate either to the northward or to the
southward, according to its direction. A large dry
tree was discovered near the bank on the south side,
which looked as if it had been seared with lightning,
and which, in the impoverished condition
Sept. 14. ^
of our fuel-bunkers, could not be quietly
passed by. The water being deep we anchored close
in, and warped alongside the shore, and speedily
every available hand was busy wooding. Boughs
within reach were quickly detached, and a rope
having been thrown over a larger branch, some
Krumen climbed up, and by dint of hard cutting and
chopping, in due time little was left remaining but
the parent trunk, which was of too great dimensions
to admit of its being attacked with our playthings.
It was, indeed, a hard enough task to reduce what
was already on the ground to a portable condition,
and it was almost painful to watch our fine, muscular
fellows labom-ing and toiling to so little purpose, and
aiming at a miserable stick blows which, with proper
instruments, would have felled a bullock. Off some
of the neighbouring trees, and from damp ground
around, I collected some very interesting hchens and
fungi, and, imbedded in a species of the latter, I
found specimens of a beautifully marked fungus-
eating beetle. In breaking up an old hollow branch,
I came upon a nest of mice with very long tails, and
managed to secure the old one and fom* young ones.
CHAP, vl] the upper Bi'nUE. 141
The morning of the second day we spent at this
place two canoes were seen going down the river along
the opposite bank. A bright-coloured flag was hoisted
to attract the crews, and after a cautious approach
and long parley, they drew near and came on board.
Two of the people were very intelligent, and gave us
much information, none of which pleased us more
than hearing that we had quitted Kor6rofa and were
now entering the province of Hamaruwa. The oppo-
site bank was still, however, Bautshi, but some hills
which were visible along the horizon towards the east
were in Adamawa, and were named the " Fumbina
Mountains." They told us that they were going up the
little river which we had passed a few days before, to
a town named Wunobo or Wurobo, and that they had
left Tshomo, a village beyond Hamaruwa, only two days
previously. This news was very cheering, as it in-
spired us with fresh hope, seeing, moreover, that the
waters were still gradually rising. In the evening
while Mr. May and Mr. Harcus were on the bank
taking observations, a growl was heard not very far
from them, and presently one of the crew, who was
ashore casting clear a rope, rushed towards them
giving the alarm of a leopard. Being very intent on
their occupation, they paid little heed either to the
warning or to the growling, until suddenly the latter
was repeated in a most threatening and unmistakable
manner close to their elbow. The interruption was
most ill-timed, as very few minutes more would have
brought Vega to her meridian height, but as an
143 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ti.
appeal to the beast's generosity or respect for science
would probably have been treated with contempt,
nothing remained but to shut up the apparatus and to
make a hasty retreat. The alarm being given, lights
and rifles were speedily in requisition, but nothing
could be seen of the intruder, which had most likely
been attracted by the smell of a goat killed at sunset.
Our shore work being finished the warp was let go,
and the " Pleiad" swung to her anchor in the stream,
carrying as passengers legions of mosquitoes, destined
to revel for the first time in their lives on white
men's blood.
By the first peep of light we were once more screwing
ahead, our eyes fixed on the Fumbina Moun-
Sept. 20. . , y , •.• X
tains ; but the day was unpropitious to us, as
we were several times aground, besides being delayed
by a sharp tornado, so that we did not make above a
dozen miles. During the folloAving day, which was
Sunday, I was obhged to keep all the Krumen busily
at work for several hours splitting wood, as our stock
of small timber was already burnt. I felt considerably
indisposed, and was not able to attend to matters, so
that I was not sorry to be able to have a little rest.
Next forenoon we anchored off a village on the left
bank, named Zhiru, and 1 landed with Mr. Crowther
to speak to some natives. They were friendly and
asked us to the town, which was a little distance from
us ; but feeling very unwell I had to return on board,
after which Mr. May, Mr. Crowther, and Dr. Hutch-
inson visited the town. The principal personage they
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 143
met with was the Hamaruwa governor, named Imoru,
the rest of the inhabitants being Aborigines, speaking
a dialect of Djuku. From the advance of the river
the neighbourhood of the village was a perfect
swamp, and looked very mihealthy. Before we started
next morning, the steward went on shore to try to get
some provisions to buy, but w^as unsuccessful. The
governor came off to see me, a sharp, but civil and
inteUigent man, with true Pulo cast of countenance.
The current ran strong, but wdth the aid of a fresh
breeze we advanced slowly. AU the smaller branches
of wood having been consumed, nothing remained on
board but large blocks of timber, which with our
poor wedges and want of hammers were most difficult
to reduce to manageable pieces. At length we hit
upon the plan of blasting, using, of course, a very
small charge of powder. Mr. May was now taken ill,
showing decided symptoms of remittent fever, so I had
to take him in hand. We were overtaken by a canoe
in which was the governor of Zhh'u, w^ho brought us as
a present, the hind quarter and leg of a buffalo, which
had been killed by the hunters that morning. The
meat not looking very tempting, I gave it to the
Krumen, who had a grand feast on it, but the
bones I preserved for comparison with those of other
species.
Another day had to be spent laboming away at the
huge lumps of wood, which still lumbered our decks,
and which unfortunately, after being cut up, bm'nt
only indifferently. Frequently branches and portions
]44. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vr.
of trees floated past, and whenever they came near
enough we attempted to secure them, but from the
strong tide this was no easy matter. A boat was
usually sent to intercept them, but if after the seizure
the vessel was missed, the only course left was to
make for the shore, and there cut up the prize, as it
was impossible to tow even a small piece against the
current. Frequently in capturing a piece of wood,
not large enough to burn for ten minutes, the boat
would be carried down upwards of a mile. A small
dry tree having been discovered along the shore, the
Krumen were despatched with their hatchets to de-
molish it, but from the rise of the river and the bank
being flooded, they had to stand up to their waists in
water to accomplish it. Evidently a sudden rise had
lately taken place. Large masses of grass, almost
forming small floating islands, were continually passing
us, and great quantities got athwart our hawser, or
foul of the boat alongside. Happening to look a little
attentively at one of these heaps it was discovered to
teem with animal life, whereupon they were all closely
examined, and yielded a most abundant zoological
harvest. Lizards, snakes, frogs, and insects, formed
the staple, but other occasional denizens from time to
time turned up ; even mammals were not unrepre-
sented, for I captured a curious shrew mouse, evidently
out of its element. Beetles, locusts, and grasshoppers
boarded us in vast numbers, but were quickly made
prisoners and transferred to my collection ; two fine
chameleons were detected in the very act of creeping
CHAP. VI.] TPIE UPPER Bi'nUE. 145
in through a hause-hole, seized, tried, and con-
demned; and a large toad which had contrived to
perch itself, puffing and panting, on the top of the
fan, only escaped my fatal grasp by diving headlong
into the rushing tide. So substantial was this grassy
drift across the bows of our iron canoe, that I could
stand on it, though up to my ankles in water, bottle
in hand, consigning such living things as had escaped
the deluge to the world of spirits. Among other cap-
tures were some specimens of an animal known at
Sierra Leone as the " ground-pig ; " it is a large
rodent, a species of Aulacodus, and when fresh is very
good eating. These were too far gone to allow even
their skins to be preserved, but their skeletons are
now among my African gatherings.
About two o'clock some canoes were seen approach-
ing:, which, on reachinsr us, we found to contain
° , Sept. 21.
a messenger from the Sultan of Hamaruwa,
who had heard of us, and now sent to welcome us.
This man, whose name was Ibrahim, was a very
important personage, combining in himself the highly
onerous and responsible offices of Chancellor of the
Exchequer and President of the Board of Trade, from
the latter of which positions he was usually designated
Sdriki'n Hausa, as most commercial transactions were
in the hands of Hausa people. When this party
came on board we were at anchor getting up steam,
and when shortly afterwards the screw began to turn,
some of the natives, in great alarm, jumped overboard
and got into the canoes. During this forenoon we
146 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. yi.
were steaming so close to the right bank, that out-
spreading branches frequently stretched right across
the ship ; and, on one occasion, to save letting go the
anchor, a warp was passed round a large tree, by
which we swung for half-an-hour. All our small fuel
being at length expended, we had to drop anchor for
the night, when the messenger left us, promising to
visit us betimes.
In the morning, in the midst of heavy rain, a boat's
crew was despatched to cut up and secm-e
Sept 22
some dry branches, which hung along the bank,
and by the help of this supply we got the fires lighted.
About eight o'clock Sariki'n Hausa returned to us,
announcing his intention of starting forthwith for
Hamaruwa, and asking what message he should
convey from me to the Sultan. I said I should send a
special messenger with him, and selected Mr. Richards
for the purpose, desiring him formally to announce
our arrival, to thank the king for his courtesy, and to
mention my intention of visiting him as soon as the
ship should reach the next town. Hoping to expe-
dite matters, and to be able to obtain useful infor-
mation, Mr. Crowther very kindly volunteered to
accompany him ; so the gig having been manned, these
two gentlemen departed, attended by Sariki'n Hausa
and Aliheh, and taking with them a small present for
the Sultan. As the distance was said not to be very
great, we were in hopes that they might be able to
return to the ship by dark. After upwards of two
hours struggling against a strong current, sometimes
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI'nUE. 147
barely holding our own, and then, when a little
steam could be raised, vigorously screwing ahead, we
at length anchored off the little tow^n of Gurowa.
Having been aware of our approach, natives soon
came off to us, in very rickety canoes, one of which
was upset alongside, and as the people were unable
to swim against the impetuous stream, I had to
send a boat to pick them up. In the afternoon
Dr. Hutchinson and I landed, and saw the governor,
who was a Piilo. The inhabitants are of the same
race as those of Zhiru, but with a greater Fulata
admixtui'e. The huts are all circular, but neat, well
kept, and each surrounded by a bit of garden-ground,
growing ochrb and pumpkins. The towm itself is
surrounded by dense bush and forest, so thick as
almost to defy penetration, and obliging all communi-
cation with other places to be by w^ater. I saw two
large Baobab-trees, covered with pendulous fruit, and
made an attempt to reach them, vi^hich was unsuc-
cessful on account of the closeness of the intervening
brush w^ood. Mr. May was now so much better, that
he was able to resume his usual duties, so speedy
was his recovery from his attack under the modern
rational treatment.
From what we learnt at Gui'ow^a, we did not expect
Mr. Crowther and Mr. Richards back at night, nor
did we feel much surprise at their not making their
appearance next morning, as we found that to go to
Hamaruwa, they had to proceed by canoe along a
creek, and afterwards had a long walk before them.
■ L 2
148 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap, vi
Many people came on board to visit us, and to see
the ship, and from some of them I got abundant
information about neighbouring countries. All were
familiar with the Paro or Paro, the confluence of which
was said to be from six to seven days' journey by
canoe ; and as a day's journey up the river seldom
exceeds from twelve to fifteen miles, the extreme dis-
tance of this river from Gurowa must be from seventy
to a hundred miles ; most probably between eighty
and ninety miles. On asking them if they knew of a
place of the name of Taepe, as mentioned in Peter-
mann's Atlas, none knew anything of it, but they spoke
of a town called Bundu,* near the meeting of the two
rivers. I inquired also about the town laid down
as Juggum, and the Koana tribe, but could learn
nothing of either ; the latter I believe, however, to be
propevly named Kwona, as a few days' later, I heard
of a race of this name living to the southward.
High ranges of mountains run along the course of
the river on either side, approaching to within a few
miles of the banks, the intervening ground being a
flat alluvial soil'. Those to the northward are named
the Muri Mountains, from an Aboriginal race who
either still inhabit the neighbouring districts, or at
all events have been but lately driven from them.
The mountains are very continuous, the sides often
precipitous, and the summits sharp and irregular.
We obtained native names for two peaks, viz. Wur-
koni and Tangale, which latter is the most remark-
* Probably the " Buudung " of Petermann's Atlas.
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 149
able, and perhaps the highest, being about 3000 feet.
The southern heights I have already mentioned as the
Fumbina mountains, in general altitude from 2000
to 3000 feet, although occasionally a more lofty
summit presents itself to view, among which one of
the nearest to our position was Bak 'n dutslii. Mount
Tshebtshi * was too far off to allow of an estimate,
but its height must be considerable. The town near
its base bears the same name, and not that of Tslieb-
tshoma (Chebchoma). Gurowa itself does not support
much trade. A few scrivelloes were brought off and
purchased, and we got some provisions. I went to
have a look after fire-wood, but could find but very
little. The river continued to rise, and the ciu-rent
alongside, upwards of four knots, was constantly
causing canoes to upset ; indeed Mr. May and myself
coming on board after dark with an inexperienced
boat's crew, very nearly ourselves got a ducking.
Several of our visitors were nearly drowned, and I
was surprised that, with the number of crocodiles
which abound, no more serious accident occmTed.
As om' party had not returned by the evening, we
began to be a little uneasy about them», but hoping
they might even after dark be on their way towards
us, a masthead-light was hoisted as a guide.
My principal infoi-mant had been more than once
at Yola, and had travelled also as far as Loggene or
Loggone. From him I gathered the following in-
formation. Hamariiwa is an extensive and powerful
* Sometimes pronounced " Sb^bslii."
150 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
Pule province, tributary to the Sultan at Sokoto, and
considered but little inferior to Adaniawa. The
present Sultan is the third Avho has occupied the
throne since its conquest by its present rulers, his
predecessors having been his brother and his father.
It comprises a considerable extent of country, on both
sides of the river, extending from Kororofa and
Bautshi or Baushi to Adamawa. Prior to its occu-
pation by the Pulatas, this country was occupied
by various independent races, the Muri being on
the north, and several races speaking dialects of
Djuku on the south. Different tribes still remain in
a state of semi-independence on the confines of
Adamawa, and to the eastward along the river;
they are all heathens, and are considered very bar-
barous. Several countries pay annual tribute to
Hamaruwa, among which are Wukari, as having
been conquered by the brother or uncle of the
present Sultan, and Zhibu, as a Pulo dependency.
The tribute consists chiefly of slaves, and the amount
varies according to the success met with in their
annual predatory excursions. In what they look on
as a productive year, Wukari sends from thirty-five
to forty slaves, carried off mostly from the Mitshis,
or from the barbarous nations living beyond Kororofa.
Adamawa, again, is principally situated to the
southward of the river, though it also claims territory
to the northward, in the direction of ]\Iandara. It
is likewise a Pulo province, tributary to Sokoto, and
is very productive in ivory, elephants being extremely
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI'nUE. ]51
numerous. Adamdwa is not synonymous with the
name Fumbina, but merely, I apprehend, appHes to
that portion of it which has been conquered by the
Pulbe (i.e. Fulatas). I am incKned to think that
formerly along the south side of the Binue, from the
confluence of the Kwora to the Mro, there were
three extensive territories, namely A'kpoto, Koro-
rofa, and Fumbina, and that all the other tribes
are of more recent origin. Thus the Mitshi tribe
has encroached partly on A'kpoto, and partly on
Kororofa ; a portion of the latter again is now com-
prised under Hamariiwa; while a large division of
Fumbina is absorbed in Adamawa, and some smaller
outlying districts are included in Hamaruwa. The
name Adamawa is derived from Adama, the Pulo
who first invaded Fumbina, loa being a common
suffix. I could not learn the origin of Hamaruwa,
but believe it to be altered from Hamaduwa, from
some chief, Hamadu or Muhamadu being a common
Pulo name. Wa is a very frequent termination to
names of towns and of countries, as Adamawa,
Hamaruwa, Gurowa, also Kukawa, the capital of
Bornu ; Y^kuba, the chief town of Bautshi is pro-
bably euphoniously altered from Yakubwa, its founder
having been called Yakub, i. e. Jacob.
On Sunday morning I began to consider about
sendinar off a searchino- party to inquire after
^ ,1 Sept. 24.
our friends, when fortunately about seven
o'clock, the gig was made out, and soon got alongside.
Mr. Crowther and Mr. Kichards, tired and footsore,
152 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
were immediately beset by numerous questioners, all
being anxious to hear of their adventures. The road
to Hamaruwa they considered to be fully a dozen
miles ; and from its very bad nature, especially after
the then recent heavy rains, it was not until sunset
that they reached the town. They were well and
comfortably lodged, and in the morning the Sultan,
in his anxiety to see them, granted them an early
audience, contrary to the long established custom of
the country, which requires messengers to wait for
thirty days before being heard. He received them
most favourably, gave them presents, and had a long
conversation with them. Mr. Crowther asked him
among other matters, if he would object to our
sending teachers to instruct the barbarous people
who inhabited many of his villages. The Sultan,
shrugging his shoulders, replied certainly not ; but
they were such Keferi,* such savages, that he
doubted much whether anything could be made of
them. He then gave Mr. Crowther a large piece of
native cloth to take to me, and also sent by him a
letter in Arabic, of which the following translation
I owe to the kindness of Edwin Norris, Esq.
" In the name of God ! Praise be to God, the
sufficient One ! Salutation to Mohammed !
" The Emir Mohammed to you. He bids you
* This word has a very extensive use among the tribes on the Kwdra
and Bi'nue, and is applied by them to designate any people more savage
than themselves. Its derivation is from the Arabic, and in the Yoruba it
means "an unbeliever, a heathen, a pagan." Vide Ci-owther's Ydruba
Vocabulary, p. 178; also Appendix D.
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 153
have patience, and to stay in this place until he sends
to the north countries, to the Emir Bawsh,* and to
the first Emir.f Whoever wishes to buy of you the
things which you have, let him buy what he hkes.
This is the Emir's command to you until tidings of
you reach these countries. Every one may get what
he wants through you, for all the shopkeepers of the
place run to you to get what you have with you.
" Health ! "
The composition of this elaborate state document,
which occupied several hours, detained Messrs. Crow-
ther and Richards so late, that it was dark long
before they reached Wuzu, the place where the boat
had been left, so that they had to sleep at this little
village all night. All had a jaded, worn-out appear-
ance ; even the stout Krumen who accompanied
them were stiff and wearied. Sariki'n Hausa also
came with them to get an answer to the Sultan's
letter, and to make some trading arrangements. I
resolved myself to go and see the Sultan ; and
although Mr. Crowther tried to persuade me to wait
until horses could be procured, thinking that no
time ought to be lost, I determined to set out at once.
Dr. Hutchinson and Mr. Guthrie also, not alarmed
by the dreadful accounts of the roads, made up their
minds to go with me. A fresh boat's crew was
selected ; a few necessary preparations made, and
along with Sariki'n Hausa, and Aliheli our inter-
preter, we shoved off about half-past eleven. We
* Tlie Sultim of Bautshi. f The Sukan at Sokoto.
151. NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vr.
had to pull against the stream for a few hundred
yards, when we reached a little opening, by Avhich
the rise of the water enabled us to take a short cut,
though for part of the way, instead of using oars or
paddles, we moved along by seizing hold of the long
reeds and grass which surrounded us. Presently we
got to a fine creek from 200 to 250 yards wide,
flowing in a south-westerly direction with a current
of two knots. We proceeded along this for about
three miles, until we reached Wuzu, a village on its
banks, where we disembarked, landed our effects,
hauled up the gig and secured her, and gave the oars,
tiller, crutches, and other small gear belonging to
her, to the care of the headman until our return.
We then marshalled ourselves under the shade of a
gigantic Baobab, and found our force to consist of
three Europeans, viz.. Dr. Hutchinson, Mr. Guthrie,
and myself, Aliheli the interpreter, my black servant,
five Kriimen, and Sariki'n Hausa, with two at-
tendants — a rather imposing array. A horse was
talked off, so one of the Sultan's men was left to
bring it after us, while we marched a-head, our crew
shouldering our baggage. For a few hundred yards
the path was dry, but then large pools began to
appear in quick succession, and the road became more
and more muddy, until at last it was completely
under water. We picked our steps rather carefully
at first, until finding all our efforts insufiicient to
keep ourselves clean or dry-shod, we dashed headlong
through it, and sometimes the inundated portions
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER Bl NUE, 155
were so deep, tliat we had to cross them, mounted
on the shoulders of the Kru-boys. At length the
steed, a sorry-looking animal, overtook us, and we — •
that is, the white men — bestrode it by turns. The
pathway, usually so narrow as only to admit of
single file, was for the greater part of the way
bounded on either side by tall grass or by low trees.
Sometimes it led through cornfields, the stalks of
which were so long as quite to protect the foot-
passengers from the sun, and even at times actually
waved over the heads of the horsemen. We passed
two small villages, and several farms as they were
called, not exactly coming up to our idea of the
broad acres and beautiful regularity of English
agriculture ; but being patches of cultivation bearing
different varieties of corn, close to which dwelt some of
the servants or slaves of the proprietors. We toiled for
many a dreary mile across this level plain, now almost
an entire swamp, the road seeming much longer from
the difficulty of progression, and being shut out
from any extended view. The sun began to verge
towards the western horizon, and many an inquiry
was made as to when the city should be seen. By
sunset we reached the foot of some rising ground,
along the ridge of which we could just discern
columns of blue smoke in faint relief against the
evening sky, and there, Ibrahim called to us, lay the
promised city. We climbed along an irregular and
rather rocky path, for some distance ; and when
within half-a-mile of the walls, were met by crowds
156 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vr.
of curious inhabitants. The wells from which their
water is procured were close to our route; and as
we passed, the last pitchers were being filled and
carried off on the shoulders and heads of, I cannot
say fair, damsels. More horses were brought, on
which we were mounted, and as the shades of evening
were rapidly falling, we rode in, the first Europeans
who had ever visited Hamaruwa. We were con-
ducted to the opposite side of the town, a consider-
able distance, and at length arrived at the abode of
Sariki'n Hausa, where we wxre informed we were
to be quartered for the night. Here an ample hut
and a large yard were set apart for us, in which
we deposited our traps, and we then sat down to
rest ourselves, after a journey from Wuzu, accord-
ing to my pedometer, of fourteen miles and a half.
It being by this time quite dark, we lighted our
lanterns, but before we had well been able to arrange
ourselves, a message of congratulation came from the
Sultan, and scarce had it been delivered before crowds
of the inhabitants came to welcome us. For nearly
half-an-hour the only business transacted was an
incessant shaking of hands, which pretty well wearied
us, after which we began to look after some supper,
and set the Krtimen to boil their rice. A very plea-
sant mess was made for us, prepared by adding to
milk and water some Indian-corn-meal mixed with a
little red pepper. Our repast was hardly finished
when a royal present was brought us, consisting of
several calabashes filled with meal fufu, known by the
CHAr VI.] THE UPPEE Bi'nUE. 157
Pulbe as tuo, and a green-coloured sauce, made chiefly
with butter. This, with the addition of a little salt,
was by no means unpalatable, except that the meal,
having been ground on a soft stone, was sandy and
gritty. By nine o'clock we were very glad to be
able to stretch ourselves for the night, we selecting the
yard, while the Krumen preferred the hut. A heavy
dew fell, but neither did this, nor numbers of most
lively mosquitoes prevent us from enjoying a good
sound sleep. The Kru-boys, again, were terribly
bitten in the hut, and were glad to come to the open
air to escape from their tiny persecutors.
By daylight we were all astir, and having hung up
our damp clothes to dry, and made prepara-
tions for breakfast, we went to look around us.
The ridge on which the town is situated runs along
the base of the Muri Mountains, one of which, nearly
enveloped in dark clouds, now looked frowningly
down upon us. Altogether the position of the town
is good, being on a tolerably dry soil, quite above the
marshy plain below, and commanding an extended
view. Its dimensions are considerable ; the breadth
I measured, being a mile and a quarter, while the
. length must be fully two miles. The number of
inhabitants could not, according to our computation,
be under eight thousand. About half-past six heavy
rain set in, and continued with occasional intermis-
sions for nearly two hours. This drove us to seek
the shelter of the despised hut, where, however, to
protect ourselves from insects, we had to kindle a
158 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
fire and to light our cigars, so that with rain without
and smoke within, our position was not an enviable
one. We afterwards found that in the river at this
very time a heavy tornado came down, which nearly
cleared everything off the deck of the " Pleiad," while
here, only sixteen miles off, and almost in the moun-
tains, we had rain without a breath of wind ; so very
local, it would thus appear, are the effects of these
dreadful hurricanes. Early in the morning Sariki 'n
Hausa had gone to the Sultan to request an early
audience for us, and we had since despatched another
messenger, but by nine o'clock the only answer which
had reached us, was the arrival of another large
consignment of tuo, similar to that sent us for
supper.
As the rain began to clear off, numbers of the
inhabitants came to see us, and we soon got on very
friendly terms with them. We amused ourselves
by purchasing mats, rings, ear-rings, wristlets, hair-
pins, and other ornaments, made of lead, copper,
or brass, for which we gave trinkets, and handker-
chief pieces. Kazors were here, as in all Muhammadan
places, in great demand, and much prized. A young
woman asked me to buy a couple of rings from her,
for which I proposed to give in exchange some red-
printed calico. Wishing to possess a larger piece,
she took off another ring and added it to the former
ones, on which I increased my quantity. Still she
was not satisfied, but taking off rings, ear-rings, and
hairpins, one by one, she gradually divested herself of
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER Bl NUE. 159
every ornament, until she managed to get several
yards of the tempting material. Her last hairpin she
held in her hand for some time, looking alternately
at it and at the coveted article ; but at last, as though
thinking that copper rings and brass pins could at
any time be got at Hamaruwa, she gave it up, and
marched off in triumph with the showy dress, resolving
to become for the time the envy of all her acquaint-
ance. I met with but one interruption, from a wild-
looking, overgrown fellow who suddenly came to the
door of our hut, and rudely dragged away a Avoman
with whom I was bargaining for some mats, declaring
that she was underselling them. I said, little at first,
but on the man's becoming further insolent, I ordered
him off, saying I would speak of his behaviour to the
Sultan, and finally I ordered one of our crew to turn
him out of the yard. None of the natives took his
part, but were rather pleased at seeing the bully
silenced, and after a time, he came back in a cringing
manner, wishing me to buy his sword, which, however,
I declined doing.
As this was the first occasion on which we met
with Fulatas in great numbers, I shall enter into
some little detail concerning them. In Hamaruwa,
as in other Pulo towns, although the inhabitants are
all Muhammadans, yet the women are permitted to
go about unattended ; their faces are not considered
sacred from the unhallowed gaze of the Giaour,
neither do they exhibit the extreme strictness nor
the bigotry of the Moslemin of the East. Among
160 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. vi.
them are to be constantly seen numerous Mallams —
or learned men — with white turbans, and usually a
piece of cloth over the mouth and lower part of the
face. In appearance they are far removed from the
Negro, and the profile is frequently nearly European,
and their skins, never black, are at times very pale-
coloured. They have not a muscular look, nor are
they of full flesh. Their stature is rather above the
average ; and their long, spare-made limbs seem
well adapted for activity and endurance of fatigue.
Their foreheads are high, and at times expansive;
the features long, and the chin pointed ; the nose is
straight, or at times almost aquiline ; the usually
blue expressive eye, has a wandering, restless cast ;
while the lips, which are inclined to be thick, exhibit
the only marked Ethiopic affinity. They occupy a
high place in the scale of intelligence and quickness,
and in commercial concerns they are keen and active.
Their manners appeared to us, after meeting with so
many rude tribes, cultivated and pleasing, and their
persons were kept tolerably clean. Most of the men
wear tobes, almost all have turbans, straw hats, or
some kind of head-dress, and many sport loose
trowsers. Being Muhammadans, the head is com-
monly kept shaved, but the hair is allowed to grow
on the chin. Most of them carry with them charms
enclosed in little leathern cases, hung round the neck,
and generally consisting of scraps of Arabic writing,
or of verses from the Kurlin. The women were cer-
tainly by far the best-looking whom we saw, and
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 161
were dressed with some degree of taste. The fashion-
able ornaments consisted of ear-rings of lead or brass,
massive, and often tastefully ornamented brass pins
in the hair, and generally armlets or wristlets of the
same metal. Their dress chiefly comprised a long
piece of native cloth, wound several times round the
body, and reaching from beneath the armpits to
below the knees, the end of which is, when the
weather is cold or wet, thrown loosely over the head.
Under this are one or two other similar folds, only
not quite so large, and reaching from the waist. A
few of the younger ladies of the place, probably the
belles, wore round their heads narrow wreaths or
circlets of neatly plaited dyed straw, or reeds, which
had a very graceful effect. The custom prevails
here of dyeing the edges of the eyelids with anti-
mony, and it certainly gives softness to the expression ;
the finger-nails, too, are stained with henna, which
plant is extensively cultivated in the gardens. The
ordinary language is the Pulo, but Hausa is also
nearly universally understood. Our host Ibrahim was
a fine example of his race, of prepossessing look, with
much quickness, intelligence, and information ; he
was, moreover, what there might be called a man of
education, being able to speak and to write Arabic.
I showed to some people about me my pocket
compass, trying to explain to them, that one end of
the needle invariably pointed in the same dii'ection,
and that by it I could always find my way. One
man, who had apparently heard of this instrument
162 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
before, began to ask the position of different places
around, and as I usually looked at the needle before
answering, the spectators thought it gave me informa-
tion in some mysterious manner. I was put through
a strict geographical examination, and was asked in
rapid succession to point in the direction of the Faro,
of Yola, Zliiru, Nak, Zhibu, Wukari, Yakuba, Sokoto,
Kano, Katshina, Tumbuktu, Bornu, Loggone, Wadai,
&c., and having a tolerable acquaintance, both with the
map, and with the situations of these localities, the
crowd were much amazed at the correctness of the
stranger. One travelled Hadji, hoping to puzzle me,
demanded that I should indicate the situations of
Mekka and of Stamboul, on which a woman requested
me to stop, as she was afraid that the child, of which
she was then pregnant, would be marked with a
compass, or be born white. A Mallam, being
desirous of seeing me write with a black lead pencil
on paper, I tore off a little bit, and, writing the words
" Hamaruwa, 25th of September, 1855," gave it to
him, on seeing which all around became eager to
possess similar scraps. I wrote accordingly, until I
had expended all my spare paper, when I discovered
that these were looked on as charms, the men con-
sidering that the possession of one would insure
success in hunting, or in war, while the female part
of the community believed that they would prove
preservatives against sickness, and would render the
marriage-bed fruitful.
Being anxious to reach Gurowa by night, we
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI'NUE, 163
determined, as it was nearly noon, and as no messenger
had yet returned, to walk towards the king's, but for-
tunately met on the way our friend Sariki'n Hausa,
who was then coming to conduct us. While approach-
ing the palace we fired, at his urgent request, several
blank shots, to the mingled terror and dehght of the
beholders. At the outer-gate, where we were detained
for two or tliree minutes, we saw lying outside a large
heap of sandals, as all entrants were obliged there to
uncover their feet, and likewise to leave their spears
or other offensive weapons. We were presently re-
quested to proceed, and passing through a court-yard,
where many persons were seated on the ground cross-
legged, were ushered into a large, substantial hut, the
door of which was shaded by a curtain. On entering,
Sariki'n Hausa desired me to sit right before the
Sultan, and placing Dr. Hutchinson and Mr. Guthrie
on either side of me, he ranged our retinue behind.
He then himself knelt down in front of us, signing
to Aliheli to come close to him and do likewise. We
were seated on good Turkey rugs, and about were
carelessly strewn cushions of bright-coloured European
cloths and satins, red and yellow being the predomi-
nant shades. Across the capacious hut, immediately
before us, hung a curtain of striped pink and white
silk, which concealed his majesty from our view. As
soon as we were seated the spectators shouted and
clapped their hands ; the Sultan, through his inter-
preter, then welcomed us, saying how glad he was to
see us, and how pleased he felt that white men should
u 2
164 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. \x
first visit Hamaruwa during his reign, as such an event
had never occurred during the rule of any of his prede-
cessors. He then gave an order to Sariki'n Hausa, who,
taking from under the screen three fine Hausa tobes,
put one on me, and one on each of my companions.
He presented me also with three poisoned spears with
the heads covered, with one unpoisoned spear, and
also with a basket of fine gura or kola nuts, the latter
esteemed as a mark of great favour and friendship.
Having returned thanks for these, I inquired of Sariki'n
Hausa whether the curtain was to be raised or not,
but was told that, according to custom, the Sultan
would remain unseen during our conference. I there-
fore proceeded to say that we had come from a
powerful country named England, far away on the
great sea ; that the Queen of our country, who was a
very powerful Queen, was desirous of being at peace
and on terms of amity with all monarchs, that she
wished to aid in promoting the welfare of all places
however distant, and was therefore anxious that her
subjects should cultivate trade and commerce wher-
ever it was possible to do so. That it was for this
purpose that we had now come to Hamaruwa, and while
feeling highly gratified with our reception, we hoped
that the Sultan would always deal kindly and justly
towards white men, and that we trusted that they
again would invariably behave properly towards him.
We then mentioned the articles which we were de-
sirous of purchasing, enumerating in general terms
the nature of our goods. To this the Sultan replied
CHAP, vr] THE UPPER BI NUE. ] 65
ill very friendly tones, saying he felt honoured by
receiving the subjects of so great and so good a Queen,
and assuring us that he would use his utmost endea-
vour to promote our views, to assist our designs, and
to further trade. I then told the Sultan that on our
return down the river it was my intention to visit
Wukari, which was, I understood, one of his depen-
dencies, and would, therefore, feel much obliged by
his sending a message or a letter by us, stating that we
were his friends, to which he replied, " most certainly,
he would gladly do so." I then gave him his pre-
sent, consisting of several pieces of white and coloured
calico, two velvet tobes, a sabre and brass scabbard,
and a double barrelled gun with spare flints and
powder. Dr. Hutchinson gave him specimens of the
various kinds of goods we had on board, and Mr.
Guthrie off'ered him a supply of writing materials and
a map on which was pointed out the position of
Hamaruwa, with all of which the king seemed well
pleased. The silk screen not being very thick, and
as the king sat between me and an open door, I could
see his figure and actions, though I could not distin-
guish his features. He wore a fine scarlet robe,
and when the gifts were laid before him, he
examined them with much interest, especially the
sabre and the writing materials. He then said he
was the slave of the Sultan at Sokoto, and must send
a special messenger to inform him of our visit, and
asked me if I would give him a present to send to
his master, which I promised to do. I was next
166 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
informed that two bullocks had been ordered to be
secured for us, for which I expressed our thanks, and
then requested the Sultan to let us have horses to
take us back to Wuzu, We were much pressed to
extend our stay until the succeeding day, but I ex-
cused myself on account of having much to attend to ;
adding also, that no trade would be commenced until
Dr. Hutchinson got to the ship. We therefore said
farewell, and on leaving the royal presence * the cere-
mony of clapping the hands and shouting was
repeated. Sariki'n Hausa now took me to see the
bullocks, but on reaching the enclosure we found that
only one had been caught, a fine black bull,t which,
on Mr. Guthrie's getting rather too close to him, was
desirous of taking somewhat unpleasant liberties with
him. I engaged some people to bring these animals
to Wuzu, after which we returned to make ready for
our journey. We all wore our tobes, which seemed
to inspire the inhabitants with intense respect for us,
our attire being ample evidence that we were persons
whom their Sultan delighted to honour. Imme-
diately outside of the town are fine waving fields of
corn, beyond which, on the sides of the mountains, is
abundant rich pasturage for their goats and cattle. In
the gardens are grown numerous herbs and vegetables,
and about each hut are several papaw trees. On the
outskirts, on the side next to the river, are many
* la October, 1854, the Sultan met Dr. Barth at Kano, and gave him an
account of our visit.
t The skiu of this beast, which is the Bos Dante of Liuk, marked with
a small hump on the withers, is now in the British Museum.
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 167
Baobabs, at that time covered witli fruit. I measured
one of them, by no means the largest, and found its
circumference, at three feet above its base, to be thirty
feet, while close to the ground it must have been forty
feet. The trunks, though thus of great diameter, are
seldom tall, but, at a height of from twelve to sixteen
or eighteen feet, begin to throw off, all around, widely
spreading branches. The trunks, too, are nearly
circular, and seldom or never show any disposition to
form the laminar buttresses so common in the allied
Bomhaces or silk-cotton trees. I have observed these
Adansonia only in the neighbourhood of towns and
villages, which, Mr. Crowther informs me, corresponds
with his knowledge of their localities in the Yoruba
country ; I fancied, too, that the fruit, though less
numerous, groAvs to a far greater size near the river,
and in moist situations, while in hilly regions and in
dry soil it is smaller and more abundant.
I managed to start our Kruboys with the baggage
by half-past one, and then as only one horse w^as
brought, Mr. Guthrie, as the oldest of the party, was
mounted, while Dr. Hutchinson and I agreed to
walk on in the hopes of the others being brought
after us. When, however, we had got about a mile on
our way, seeing no sign of the steeds. Dr. Hutchinson
declared that he would return and inquire about them,
while I resolved to proceed, telling him that he might
overtake me. I accordingly went on my way, picking
up a few plants, and examining the rocks and the soil.
Having got to the bottom of the hill, and finding the
168 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
road as before very wet, I pulled off my shoes and
stockings and went barefooted, that being by far the
easiest mode of progression along a path of this
description. In this way I had walked alone for
from seven to eight miles, when I lost almost all
trace of the path. Having ascertained by my compass
the position of the river, I endeavoured to work my
way in that direction, but soon got more entangled
than ever. I climbed up several trees to look around,
but could not discover a single guiding mark. I was
completely in the bush, the grass and brushwood
being so long, thick, and close, that every step I took
was a severe exertion. It was now past sunset, and
getting rapidly dark, and as it was only too evident
that I had lost my way without any chance of better-
ing myself, the next question came to be how I
should pass the night. The most comfortable and
the safest spot seemed to be up a tree, so I tried one,
and got as high as I could, but did not much relish
my quarters. All the others near me were too small,
but I recollected having observed some time before a
tall Baobab, which I determined again to search after.
I took a good mark, so that, if unsuccessful in ray
cruise, I still might have something to fall back upon,
and starting with a good run to clear the grass, was
fortunate enough in a few minutes to get a glimpse
of the Mished-for harbour of refuge. Luckily for
me it had a double trunk, with a distance between
of about two feet ; so tying my shoes together, and
casting them over my shoulder, I placed my back
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER Bi'nUE. 169
against the one trunk, and my feet against the other,
and so managed to climb until I got hold of a branch
by which I swung myself further up, and finally got
into a spot about twelve or fifteen feet from the
ground. Here I placed myself on a branch, about
a foot in diameter, projecting at nearly right angles,
and by leaning against the main trunk, and stretching
out my legs before me, I found I had a tolerably
comfortable seat, whence I might peer into the sur-
rounding obscure. The night, fortunately, was not
very dark, the stars gleamed overhead, while vivid
flashes of lightning over the neighbouring hills
enabled me, from time to time, to cast a momentary
glance around me. I got on my shoes and stockings
as a protection against insects, then passed a piece
of cord loosely round the branch, so that I could
pass my arm through it and steady myself, and
finally made preparations for repose by kicking two
places in the bark of the tree for my heels to rest in.
About eight o'clock I distinctly heard in the distance
the hum of human voices, and shouted to try and attract
attention, but to no avail ; beheving, however, that
there were some huts near, I marked the direction
by a large tree. Feeling rather tired, I lay down
on my face along the branch, throwing my hand-
kerchief over my head, and passing each of my
hands into the opposite sleeve, to prevent them from
being bitten, I was soon in a state of oblivion. I
must have slept upwards of four hours, when I
awoke rather stiff", from my constrained position, and
170 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
had to try a cliange of attitude. To pass the time I
lit a cigar, and, as I had but one, I only smoked
half of it, carefully putting back the remainder to
serve for my breakfast. A dew was now falling,
crickets and frogs innumerable were celebrating
nocturnal orgies ; huge mosquitoes, making a noise
as loud as bees, were assaulting me on all sides,
and some large birds were roosting in the tree over
my head. I tried in vain to doze away the hours,
but I had had my usual allowance of sleep, and not
being a bigoted partizan of the drowsy god, even
when I really required his aid, he refused to attend
to my invocations. I watched with most painful
interest the rising and setting of various constellations,
and was at length delighted with the appearance of
Venus, showing that morning was now not far off. A
fresh novelty next presented itself, in the form of
sundry denizens of the forest, crowding to pay homage
to their visitor. Howls of various degrees of in-
tensity continually reached my ears, some resembling
more the high notes of the hyaena with occasional
variations, and others, very close to me, being un-
questionably in the deep bass of the leopard. I once
fancied that I saw a figure moving not far from me,
but could not be positive. As light began to suffuse
itself over the eastern sky, my nocturnal companions
gradually retired, until at last I was left alone, yet
not solitary, for that I could not be, as long as the
incessant buzzing in my ears told me that my Lillipu-
tian winged antagonists were yet unwearied in their
CHAP, vr.] THE UPPER BI NUE. ] 7 1
attacks, and still unsatiated with blood. At length, as
gray dawn was being supplanted by brighter day-
light, I ventured to descend from my roosting-place,
where I had spent, not altogether without comfort,
upwards of eleven hours.
My first endeavour was to find a foot-path, and,
after a little search, I stumbled over a little
Sept. 26.
track, which, however, as it led in a wTong
direction, I had to abandon. A more prolonged in-
vestigation discovered another, very narrow, and
almost hidden by long grass, which, after the heavy
rain, was lying right over it. To prevent my again
straying, I was obliged to bend forward and walk,
almost creep, along a kind of tunnel, pulling up a few
stalks and letting them fall, as a guide in case I should
have to return. Though in my elevated quarters the
dew had been slight, on the ground it had been very
heavy, and in a few minutes I was completely
drenched. When I emerged at the other extremity of
this path, which was about half-a-mile long, and was
again enabled to look round, I saw a little circling
smoke, towards which I immediately made, and found
a few huts. Some Aborigines appeared, and, after
their surprise had subsided, I managed to explain,
by means of a few broken Hausa words, that I had
lost my way, had spent the night in a tree, and now
wished to get to Wuzu. They pointed out the way
to me ; but, as it was not very evident to my
European senses, I induced one to come with me as
a guide, and we accordingly trudged along through
17-1 NABRATIYE OF AX EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vr.
mud and water, by a route which, to any but a
thorough-bred native, would have been impossible to
keep to. After walking, or rather wading, in this
manner for two or three miles, we fell in with my
black servant and a couple of men armed to the
teeth, going in search of me. They could hardly
believe it to be me, especially when I told them how I
had passed the night, for they had already consigned
me to the jaws of the wild beasts which abound in this
neighbourhood. I accordingly dismissed my guide,
a happy man with my pocket-handkerchief, which was
all I had to give him, and continued my walk to
Wuzu, at which place I arrived about nine o'clock,
after a morning's jaunt of nine or ten miles. The
natives, who were there in numbers, were astonished
at my appearance and my story, and were no less
surprised when they saw me devouring, with great
gusto, my breakfast, which the steward had very
considerately provided for me, and which was the
first food I had tasted for twenty hours.
Many traders from Hamaruwa were at Wuzu, with
ivory and other articles for sale, so in going to the
ship we took with us, in the boat, Sariki'n Hausa,
and as many of these persons with their goods as we
could manage to pack away. Our pull up the creek
was a long one, being against the current ; but we got
on board about noon, and a scene of activity at once
commenced. Dr. Hutchinson purchased, at reason-
able rates, all the ivory we brought off, being about
360 pounds, and of good quality. Canoes being very
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 173
scarce, not one fourth part of the traders could get
on board, and I had to land many in our boats. I
bought several brass ornaments, among which was a
pair of finely- wrought brass anklets, weighing together
five pounds, made by a Kano workman resident in
Hamaruwa. I also got two small silver rings, but
could not ascertain whence the metal was obtained ;
but believe it to have been brought by caravans across
the desert, from the markets at Ghadames, or, as
they term it, Gadamawa. Another purchase was a
handsome sword and scabbard, with a sash and tassel
attached, of red woollen material, which is much
valued. This was made at Kano, which seems
to be both the Birmingham and the Manchester of
Central Africa, its Hausa traders spreading them-
selves and their goods and wares far and wide.
Intelligence came off during the afternoon of the
safe arrival of the bullocks at Wuzu; but, as I
thought they would not, after their journey, be in a fit
state to be killed, I ordered them to be tied up until
the morning, especially as I wished to have the skin
of the one and the skeleton of the other for specimens.
The chief of Gurowa sent to say that he wished to go
to Hamaruwa in the morning, but had no canoe, on
which I let him know that a boat was to be sent to
Wuzu, in which he could have a passage.
Sariki'n Hausa being about to return to Hama-
ruwa the next day, to bring for sale some of the
Sultan's ivory, I gave him a present to be sent to
Sokoto, of the same value as had been given to the
174 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
king. For his own very friendly offices I offered liini
a small gift for himself, intending to give him a
better one on our departure, and, as the afternoon
looked dark and lowering, I asked him to remain
on board all night, which he did. Mr. Crowther and
I had a long conversation with him, and obtained
much information, especially about the Pulo provinces.
He told us the names of all the Muhammadan States
of Central Africa, and the titles of their various
rulers, also the different routes to Yola and Yakuba
as performed by himself, all of which will appear in
the Appendix. He gave us, too, many Pulo words
and expressions, which made us regret much that we
had not a grammar of that language with us, as we
might have tested its correctness, and probably added
to it.* On asking him if he knew the original seat
of the Pulbe, he said that he had been always told
that the country they came from was near Tumbuktii,
and was named Male, probably meaning the district
of Melli south-west from that city. This differs a
httle from the story given by Mr. KoeUe's informant
at Sierra Leone, who traced his race from Futa Toro,
to the northward of the Gambia; but, after all, the
difference is trifling, as the Melli of Ai'ab geo-
graphers includes " Futa Toro." From these
regions they migrated eastward, as a pastoral race,
* On our return to Fernando Po, I found waiting for me copies of a
Ptilo grammar, edited from Macbrair's MS. by Edwin Norris, Esq., and
was sorry that they had not reached us sooner. This grammar applies
more especially to the language of the Western or Red Piilbe, which
differs only dialectically from that of the Eastern tribes.
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER Bl NUE. 175
and where now stands the city of Sokoto, the vision
appeared to the priest Fodio, which inspu-ed
him to action and to deeds which ended in the
subjugation of the fairest provinces of Central Africa.
At this moment there are two great divisions of
the Pulo race — the one the Western or Senegambia
Pulbe, and the other the Eastern Pulbe, to whom the
name Pulata, as given by the Bornuese, more parti-
cularly applies. In appearance the people of these
two branches closely resemble each other ; those whom
I met up the Binue being the same in feature and in
manner with the Pulbe of Timbo and (K the towns
near Sierra Leone. I do not, however, consider that
their primitive seat was in the countries between the
Gambia and the Senegal, but am inclined rather to
think that their easterly progress was a secondary
migration. The word " Pulo " signifies " yellow," or
" brown," from the light complexion of the people ;
and among many other nations they are known by
terms expressive of this feature ; thus in Kororofa
they are called " Abate," or white people. In listen-
ing to Pulbe talking, especially if from a little distance,
I have often been struck with a resemblance in sound
between their language and Arabic ; it is however less
harsh and guttural, the likeness consisting merely in
the general impression conveyed to the ear. I have
also fancied that there is an analogy both in dress, in
make, and in habits, between many of the Fulatas
and the Beduins. They possess in common the
same wandering turn, the same spare limbs, and
176 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
they both keep the lower part of the face muffled,
though this latter probably depends on their both
spending much of their time in sandy deserts. The
Fulatas, however, are more pleasing in features and
in their address ; nor do they exhibit the Beduin
dislike to cities or fixed abodes. I do not mean to
attempt to trace any direct connection between these
two singular races, but only to note the ideas
suggested by hasty glances at each.
No recent intelligence of any white travellers could
be obtained, though it was known that one had some
years previously visited Yola. Both the Sultan and
Sariki'n Hausa, however, said that about a year
previously they had heard that a stranger was residing
in Sokoto. They likewise confirmed the report which
had reached us of the decease of Sultan Bello, and
they informed us that his successor was named Alihu,
who was now the supreme ruler of all the Pulbe.
In the afternoon, about half-past four o'clock, a
curious phenomenon was witnessed. During a heavy
shower a brilliant complete rainbow was seen in the
south-east, and immediately afterwards a supple-
mentary bow, also entire, showed itself at a distance
of nine or ten degrees from the primary one, the two
extending from horizon to horizon, forming a gorgeous
spectacle, contrasting most strongly with the intense
darkness of the surrounding clouds. While gazing
on these, I was equally astonished and pleased by the
appearance of a portion of a third eccentric bow,
extending from the western extremity of the primary
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI'nuE. 177
one, and seeming as a tangent to it. Its colours
were in the same order as those of the primary, and
it did not extend sufficiently far to intersect the
secondary one. It remained visible for nearly ten
minutes, hut faded before either of the great arches.
Eor nearly a week before we reached Hamaruwa
sickness had been showing itself among our Krumen
in rather a peculiar form. They complained of
general debility, with swelling of the lower limbs,
and on Dr. Hutchinson's first drawing my attention
to it, we had some difficulty in assigning a reason
for these affections. On watching, however, atten-
tively the symptoms for a day or two, no doubt was
left that the disease was scurvy, the peculiar stiffness
of the joints and the softness of the gums being
unequivocal. This led to an inquiry as to the
amount of food given to the Krumen, which had
been arranged by Mr. Taylor. The Krumen were fed
entirely on rice, and although going through immense
exertion daily, had been kept on a ration not ex-
ceeding a pint and three quarters, a quantity which
Dr. Hutchinson had already increased on his own
responsibility. The disease prevailed chiefly among
the younger Kruboys, who had never anything at all
but rice, while the older hands, who had occasionally
come in for various little pickings, preserved their
health longer and better. The Sierra Leone men
also, who had been allowed a scanty portion of meat,
escaped better. Erom Gurowa and Hamaruwa no
fresh vegetables were to be obtained, and not much
178 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
fresh meat, but I now directed the flesh of one of
the bullocks given me by the Sultan to be handed
over for the sole use of the Krumen, and Dr. Hut-
chinson gave them from his private stores wine and
arrowroot. There were no spirits on board, and
though I am no advocate for their indiscriminate
employment or regular issue, still I think most
decidedly that no vessel going on any such service
as ours should be entirely without them. Often I
have regretted that, after the very severe labour
which our men had frequently to undergo, it was
out of my power to order them something of the
kind, as I am convinced that it would have been
beneficial. This omission was quite contrary to the
wishes of Mr. Laird, who had no idea that the
" Pleiad " had not had some rum included among
her stores, and who had given a carte blanche to the
sailing-master to order everything requisite for the
cruise.
The above cause very much interfered with the
amount of work done daily, and it was the more
annoying as it was one which could have been avoided
by the most ordinary amount of foresight. Another
difficulty which now weighed heavily upon us, was
the scarcity of fuel, not that suitable trees were
entirely wanting, but they were very few, and at a
considerable distance from the ship, so that with a
debihtated crew, and still more debilitated instruments,
it was impossible to cut the amount of wood requisite
for steaming against a strong stream. I was therefore
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 179
obliged to relinquish the idea of a further ascent in
the steamer, a very disagreeable alternative, as there
was abundance of water, and the river had not yet
ceased to rise. My wish had been to persevere as
long as there was sufficient depth for the " Pleiad,"
until we observed symptoms of the falling of the river,
as with the powerful current we could accomplish our
descent very rapidly. Mr. May and myself, notwith-
standing, resolved to make a short boat voyage and to
attempt in this manner to reach the Mro. I had
the less compunction in leaving the steamer off
Gurowa, as the anchorage was perfectly healthy, and
there appeared every evidence of a good and profitable
trade lasting for some time. Our first plan was that
Mr. May should ascend the river by boat, and that I
should try to reach Yola by the shortest overland
route, but from this I was strongly dissuaded by Mr.
Crowther, whose experience of African travelling
added much weight to his opinion, and subsequent
events made me feel satisfied that I had not under-
taken this journey. The gig was accordingly got
ready, five Kruboys selected, and we took a Sierra
Leone man who spoke Hausa as our interpreter and
our cook. We shipped a small bag of rice, a few
pounds of salt pork, some biscuit and cocoa, enough
for three or four days' consumption, and took also for
our private use some Quinine wine, which on such
excursions should be considered as indispensable.
We ought to have started immediately after my
return from Hamaruwa, but a slight accident hap-
N 2
180 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. vi.
pening to the gig, we were detained until the fol-
lowing morning, by which we escaped a violent
thunder-storm, during which the mainmast of the
" Pleiad " was struck by lightning, but fortunately
the electric fluid escaped by the conductors, without
doing us any harm.
In the morning everyone was up before dawn. The
pinnace was sent to Wuzu, with the steward and a
party to kill the bullocks. Sariki'n Hausa also took
a passage in the boat, en route to Hamaruwa, intend-
ing to return in a couple of days with a further
supply of ivory, as I had told him we should remain
at anchor for at least that time. I left the vessel
under the charge of Mr. Harcus, the chief mate, in
whom every confidence could be placed, ordering him
if no sudden or unusual danger occurred in the height
of the water, to stay at Giirowa until our return, which
would be in from three to four days. If he felt
obliged to start, he was to leave a message for us at
Gurowa, and he was not, if possible, to proceed
beyond Zhibu, and in the meantime I desired every
exertion to be made to secure sufficient firewood to
carry the " Pleiad " to that town. Lastly, having
learnt that some wild animals had been killed the
previous night, I desired my assistant, Mr. Dalton, to
go ashore and endeavour to make some purchases for
specimens. These matters having been finally arranged,
Mr. May and I embarked, a little after six o'clock,
our only passenger being a little pet dog, my constant
companion.
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER Bi'nUE. 181
After the tornado of the night the morning was
dark and gloomy and raw, and, to avoid the strong
current, we had to pull near in shore, crossing the
river from time to time, following closely the line of
slack water. In about two hours we entered a narrow
creek on the northern side, and presently discovered
a village, smTounded, and almost intersected by
water. Here Mr. May and I landed, and desiring
our boat's crew to shove off and to get their breakfast,
we asked for the headman. To our astonishment we
were shewn quite a youth, whom we recognized as a
late visitor on board, and whom we found to be the
Pulo governor of the village, which is named Tshomo.*
We sat down on the beach on a mat, and presently
an old man was pointed out to us as the native chief,
though there was nothing in the least distingue in his
manners or his appearance. Old, dirty, and savage-
looking, his tout ensemble was the reverse of pre-
possessing, as he sat, or rather rolled in the dust along-
side of us, scantily clad, and smoking a greasy pipe.
The proper opening of the creek by which we went to
Wuzu is situated here, the opening by which I formerly
crossed into it, being merely one rendered practicable
by the great height of the water. The Aborigines
here are of the same race as those of Zhiru and
Gui'owa, and call themselves Baibai, being one of the
Djuku tribes of Kororofa. They have the Negro
features more strongly marked than any people we
had met since leaving the Delta. The skin is very
* Also at times Tsdmo or Shdrno.
182 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
dark, almost black, the nose is broad and flat, the
cheek-bones rather square ; the eyebrows overhanging
and very bushy, the ears large, with pendulous
fleshy lobes. They are not a muscular race, but they
are large-boned. The expression is heavy, deficient
in intelligence, and frequently savage. Withal, how-
ever, the profile is not very prognathous, the chin and
mouth not projecting much. They wore very little
clothing, that of the men being composed of scanty
pieces of cloth or of skins, and that of the women of
leaves. They are not traders, but live mainly by
hunting and fishing. I saw a quantity of flesh of a
hippopotamus which had been killed the day before,
cut into long, thin stripes, and hung in the sun, the
smell being now anything but fragrant. In the
centre of the village, I found a pile of skulls and
heads of hippopotami, buff'aloes, deer, leopards, and
crocodiles, this part being considered sacred, and
dedicated to the God of Hunting. I wished to pur-
chase some as specimens, and after some debate, was
allowed to off'er terms. Not having the means with
me, either of buying them or of stowing them arway, I
gave a man a note to take to my assistant at Gurowa,
which he said he would do. At Zhiru, where a similar
heap was seen, the people obstinately refused to sell
any of their spoil. The only information I obtained
was the names of the towns we should pass, namely,
Lau on the left bank, and Bandawa and Djin on the
right bank, all more or less subject to Hamaruwa,
beyond which was Dampsa inhabited by a race so
CHAP, vr.] THE UPPER BI'nUE. 183
wild, as to be considered, even by our savage
acquaintances, as Keferi, and who were said to
amuse themselves by cutting the throats of unwary
travellers. On leaving Tshomo, we managed to push
our way through some long grass, and rejoin the
river by a short cut.
For some days previous to om- leaving the ship a
fresh breeze had blown up the river, on which
we had reckoned greatly for assistance during our
cruise ; but now, when we most needed it, it was
not to be obtained. We had, therefore, to trust
almost entirely to our oars, and consequently did not
progress rapidly : as the sun became very powerful,
we spread our awning, which was a great protection
to us. During the whole of our sojourn in the
Kwora and in the Binue, the regular daily breeze was
from the sea iqj the river ; and this we found to be
the rule to the furthest extent of our explorations ;
but I frequently observed that when the usual order
of things had been upset by the occurrence of a
tornado, or other violent atmospheric action, the
sea-breeze for a day or two following, was not
nearly so strongly felt as usual, and at times did not
exist; and this was now om* case, as the thunder-
storm of the preceding night had been succeeded
by a close, sultry day, with scarcely a breath of wind.
About mid-day we made fast to some long grass at
the river side, and allowed ourselves half-an-hour for
dinner, after which we again pushed on, and just
afterwards, on rounding a point, surprised a young
184 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. vi.
elephant, wliicli was standing quietly half immersed,
but which no sooner observed us, than it speedily
dashed a-shore, and disappeared in the bush. We
saw another one during the afternoon, on the opposite
side of the river from us, a fine old male, with a magni-
ficent pair of tusks ; he came down quietly, entered the
river, by means of his long trunk enjoyed a refresh-
ing shower-bath, and then deliberately again mounted
the bank. This was the only opportunity I enjoyed
of watching the African elephant, and though so far
off that I had to observe the animal with the glass, I
was particularly struck with the large size of the ears
and the rounded forehead. In Central Africa, where
it exists in enormous numbers, it is not, during life,
applied to any useful purpose, and in intelligence
it is believed to be inferior to its Indian congener.*
The banks of the river appeared to be nearly
flooded, and except in one small spot we did not
observe a single place where we could have landed.
No villages were passed, and the only thing indica-
tive of life during the day, was hearing at a little
distance from us the sound of a hunting party pur-
suing a buffalo. I listened to the cry of this animal,
which is very peculiar and differs greatly from the
low of domestic cattle, closely resembling a low,
prolonged blast, from a shrill hunting-horn. A
* The characters of the African elephant are so peculiar and constant,
that it has by Frederick Cuvier been properly constituted into a distinct
genus, named " Loxodonta" from the structure of the teeth. Though
now only sought after by hunters, it was iu former ages ti-aiued for war-
like purposes by the Carthaginians and otlier nations, and this was the
species, too, most frequently exhibited at Rome.
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 185
thunder-cloud at one time threatened us, but fortu-
nately passed off to the south-west. After a long
pull, our men were much revived by seeing in the
afternoon a village on the left bank, towards which
we made. Some canoes paddled off as if to recon-
noitre, and then speedily returned to report their
observations. The sun was fast verging towards the
horizon, and its setting rays were brightly reflected
from the huts, and from a pretty green hill behind,
while immediately to the westward a grove of tall
trees, looking down in sombre grandeur on a
wondering group of natives who stood gazing at the
sudden apparition of the strange canoe, added pictu-
resqueness to the scene. The village which was
Lau, seemed to be in two parts ; so landing at the
one nearest, we advanced, and shaking hands with
the persons next to us, asked where the king resided.
They informed us that he was to be found in the
other division, so, as no time was to be lost, we
again shoved off*, and a few strokes of our oars
brought us to the spot. Again we jumped on shore,
and on repeating our inquiries, were conducted
among some huts to a small open space, where we
were asked to sit down on a large log. After a little
delay, a tall, elderly, paralytic man came forward, who
was, we were informed, the native chief, the Hama-
rtiwa governor being absent. The people, who were
all Baibai, were very civil, and seemed glad to see us.
They gave us information confirming what we had
heard at Tshomo, but said that beyond Djin, on the
186 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
same side, was an independent place named Bat-
sliama, although nominally it was within the Hama-
ruwa territory. We asked numerous questions about
localities near the Paro, and found that many of our
names were recognized, among others, the town of
Bundu, and Mount Bagale, but no one knew any-
thing of Taepe. To the confluence by canoe, from
Lau, was, they said, reckoned five good days'
voyage. The village of Wurabeli, at the foot of the
mountains behind Lau, which is the first stage on
the short route to Yola, was, we were told, entirely
inhabited by Ptilbe. Among those standing around,
one man was pointed out to us, as the son of the
King of Kwona, whose town was situated inland
about two days' journey. This Kwona must, I
consider, be the Koana of Dr. Barth, concerning
which I have made many fruitless inquiries. The
people at Lau seemed very poor, and had nothing to
barter ; their huts appeared to be tolerably neat, but
in their persons they were quite as dirty as those of
Tshomo or Zhiru. A few Pulbe who were among
the residents, were our chief informants, and seemed
completely to look down upon the native Keferi. As
it was quite dark we shoved off, and anchored
about 100 yards from the bank, and prepared our
supper. About eight o'clock a canoe approached and
hailed us, telling us that one of our recent acquaint-
ances wished to come off" to us and have a little
conversation, probably hoping to get a present ; but
we excused ourselves, saying it was too late, and that
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BINUE. 187
we were tired. A heavy dew was falling, so we
quickly made our night preparations, the awning
being in readiness in case of rain. Not having much
spare room, some of the crew stowed themselves away
in the bottom of the boat, while the others laid the
oars together and slept on them, Mr. May and myself,
with our instruments, occupying the stern sheets.
Before sunrise we were again under way, leaving
behind us Lau and its inhabitants. The green hill
we had observed the previous evening shewing so
resplendently at sunset, looked, if possible, now still
more beautiful, the rays of the early sun sparkling
brilliantly among the dew drops, and brightening the
delicate tints of the verdure. We called it Mount
Laird, that we might leave on record thus far up the
Binue, the name of om- excellent friend, who had so
largely contributed towards the present expedition.
A little wind springing up, we set our sail, which
enabled us more successfully to contend against the
powerful current, and in this manner we proceeded
along an island, situated in the middle of the river,
which we named after our ship " Pleiad Island." On
rounding its eastern extremity we observed on the
right bank, elevated some fifteen or twenty feet above
the water, the village of Bandawa, the position of
which had been pointed out to us at Lau. The
breeze now freshening permitted us to lay in our
oars, and to have our breakfast, without losing any
time. Towards noon we saw ahead upwards of a
dozen canoes, which we soon overtook, and found to
188 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
contain from seventy to eighty people, returning from
a hunting expedition, the odour of some of their spoil
being unpleasantly evident to om* sense of smell. A
wild, savage-looking set they were, many being
entirely unclad; but when we came close to them,
they got alarmed, and paddled in among the long grass
out of sight. None of them could speak Hausa, and
we could only make out that Djin was still beyond
us. While engaged upon our dinner we came rather
suddenly on a herd of ten or a dozen hippopotami,
which were amusing themselves in shallow water, but
did not appear much to mind our intrusion, merely
expressing their disapprobation by loud snorting.
Shortly afterwards, while passing between two
islets, another popped its head above water, so close
to our quarter that we could have almost touched it
with an oar, but, alarmed by om* unlooked-for
proximity, it quickly disappeared. River-horses, as
far as I have been able to observe them, seldom
venture into deep water except Avhen crossing from
one spot to another, and, though gregarious, I have
rarely seen them together in large numbers. During
the day their favourite haunt is in still water over
some shallow, or on sandbanks connected with an
island. In such places they are to be seen tranquilly
basking in the sun, frequently with the head only
above the water. If at aU alarmed they immediately
disappear below, occasionally coming to the surface
to breathe and to look around. They can remain
under water for a long period, but I never had a
CHAP, vr.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 1 89
good opportunity of ascertaining their extreme limits
of endurance. When more sportively inclined they
may be observed splashing clumsily about, opening
their enormous jaws, displaying their tusks, and
tossing their huge heads in anything but a graceful
manner. When reposing on sandbanks they usually
form one extended line, at which times nothing is
visible but a profile view of a long row of faces, just
above the water, the small eyes and the swollen muzzle
then constituting the most remarkable features. It
is from sunset to sunrise that they usually visit the
shore for feeding, &c., and near marshy spots or
grassy islets their peculiar noise, something between
a grunt and a snort, may be heard throughout the
night. Their flesh is greatly prized, for which they
are much sought after by the natives, the hunters
employing in the chase chiefly poisoned arrows : their
tusks form excellent ivory, and bring a much higher
price in the markets than that yielded by the elephant.
The wind again failed us, and our crew, somewhat
fatigued, laboured hard at the oars ; the way, too, was
sensibly prolonged by our having so frequently to
cross the river, to take advantage of the eddies, and
to avoid the full force of the current. Not having
passed a single human habitation since morning, we
were not a little overjoyed and cheered by observing a
few straggling huts on the north bank, towards which
we made, and about four o'clock landed to try to
procure some information. The few inhabitants whom
we found did not seem much alarmed, and one old
] 90 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
man, after clapping his hands and welcoming us, gave
us to understand that Djin was close by, and offered
to conduct us to it. Having shipped him as our
pilot, we accordingly pulled about a hundred yards
further up the river, and entering by a narrow mouth,
proceeded along a very winding creek, where we had
to push our way through long grass and reeds, or to
pass under overhanging branches ; and, surrounding its
upper portion, we discovered an extensive town with
a dense population. On landing, a large crowd had
already assembled to meet us, while numbers of natives
were wading and swimming across an arm of the creek,
eager to get a peep at the pale-faced strangers. We told
them we wished to see their king, on which we were
asked up into the village, and requested to wait
beneath the shade of a huge tree. Mr. May and I,
having asked for a mat, seated ourselves in this spot,
and presently were surrounded by not fewer than
from five to six hundred natives, who formed a large
ring around us. No one could speak Hausa, so that
we could hold no direct communication with them,
until three Fulatas and two Bornuese, who were
temporary residents, pushing forwards, placed them-
selves beside us, and from them we learnt, that the
inhabitants were still Baibai, speaking Djuku ; that
the Paro was fully four days' voyage by canoe, that
Batshama was more than a day's journey from Djin,
and that Dampsa was nearly the same distance beyond
it, and that half way to Batshama was a village
named Diilti. We could hear of no trade, nor of any
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 191
article of commerce, hunting and fishing being the
chief supports of the inhabitants.
In external appearance the people of Djin closely
resembled those of Gurowa, of Tshomo, and of Lau,
with the same irregular markings on the upper arm ;
we had, however, during our progress, marked a
gradual increase in savage aspect and manners as we
got further eastward, the natives of Lau, and of
Tshomo, being less civilized than those of Gurowa ;
while, in their turn, they were surpassed by the un-
couth crowd which now encompassed us. The men
all carried spears and short swords, and both sexes
were exceedingly scantily clad, some even being
entirely destitute of any garment. Such a continual
din and shouting was carried on, that it was with
much difficulty we could distinguish our own voices,
and many were our vain endeavours to procure a
temporary respite. As neither king nor head-man
made his appearance, we asked repeatedly why this
was, but received only evasive, unsatisfactory rephes.
The sun was now down, and we were anxious to
escape from the mosquitoes and other plagues and
pestilences of the swamp, we therefore told our
friends that as we were tired, we should now go on
board our boat and sleep, an announcement which
seemed to cause some dissatisfaction ; but we shook
hands with those around and walked on. One of the
Fulatas then asked us to his hut, where he showed us
mats, on which he said we might spend the night ; but
we thanked him, and declining his offer went towards
193 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vr.
the boat. No sooner, however, had we got on board
than a crowd of persons seized the gig, declaring that
we should not leave, but should remain at Djin. We
remonstrated quietly with them, and at last they said
that if we were really fatigued, we might sleep in the
boat, but it should be where we then w^ere — a most
delightful and repose-inviting spot. Our acquaint-
ances seemed inclined to become troublesome, or at
least to wish to press their polite attentions to an un-
pleasant extent, while we were equally desirous of
getting rid of them. Our Krumen, who were not a
little alarmed, were ordered to stand by all ready at
an instant's notice. Mr. May seized the tiller, while
I took one or two trifling articles, such as small
mirrors and clasp-knives, which I distributed to the
most influential looking individuals within my reach,
and particularly to one who appeared to be our
" special retainer." The ruse took, the glittering
trinkets were eagerly examined, while we, seizing the
moment that they let go our bow, shoved off, and
vigorously paddled down the creek, watching closely
with the last glimpse of twilight to observe the turns
and curves by which we entered, and to avoid breaking
our heads against the jutting branches. Before the
astonished multitude, who had thus let their prize
elude their grasp, could make up their minds what
course to pursue, we had regained the river, and
dropping a little way down landed at the huts where
we had formerly been, and where Mr. May got an>
observation for latitude. Our old friend the pilot
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 193
joined us, and presented us with a fowl, on which I
dehghted his heart by giving him a gay coloured
handkerchief. We again pushed off, and anchoring
in three fathoms water, got ready our evening meal,
and made all snug for the night. About eight o'clock
some people came to the beach opposite to us, and
hailing us, tried to induce us to go ashore, telling us
their king would now receive us, and that there was
ivory for sale ; but as we had not been over-civilly
treated by daylight, we had no desire to pay an
evening visit to Djin. Our Krumen, who had hardly
yet recovered from their fright, told us that during
our absence ashore a band of natives had made two
or three attempts to drag the boat high and dry,
and to commence pilfering. Throughout the night
numerous river-horses were busily engaged on an
extensive marsh not far from us, and their discordant
sounds might, probably, have disturbed the repose of
less practised sleepers ; we, however, when waking
from time to time to look around, merely Hstened
to them as a rude lullaby, and again slumbered : the
night, though dark, was fine and clear, and we could
occasionally distinguish the dim outline of their bulky
figures, as they plunged from the bank into the
river.
By early dawn we were again at work, and pulling
along the northern shore soon passed Djin, below
which we observed two large herds of cattle feeding,
all of which were white or light-coloured, Avith small
humps on the withers, evidently a breed similar to
] 94 NARKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vi.
those of Hamaruwa, from which they only differed
in not having among them any dark-skinned indi-
viduals. A canoe followed us, containing some of
our quondam friends, who used their utmost powers
of persuasion to make us return with them ; but
their logic and their rhetoric proving alike ineffectual,
they soon gave up the trial. About a mile and a
half further we saw a small village, of which in
passing we demanded the name. The reply was not
altogether distinct, but we understood it to be
" Abiti." Near all these villages, along the banks,
were numerous small fishing-stations, which are
arranged as follows : — Through a kind of pulley at
the upper extremity of an upright pole planted at
the water's edge, a rope passes, which is attached to
the further side of the wooden rim of a large bag-
net, the opposite side of the rim working in a kind
of hinge at the foot of the pole. When the rope is
let go, the net sinks until the mouth is below the
surface, and in this way it is allowed to remain until
fish are supposed to have got entangled in the
meshes, or to be within the bag, when by hauling
on the line the net is hoisted out of the water and
its contents secured.
To our great delight a fresh breeze blew, and we
made rapid progress. The river was still rising, the
banks everywhere were overflowed, and the water was
pom-ing over them into the adjacent country. The
mountain ranges on either hand still continued, and
the Muri chain appeared some miles ahead of us to
CHAP. VI THE UPPER BI NUE. 195
come close to the river. We were now under Tan-
gale, and could well remark its fantastic rocky
summit, and its sides barely covered with trees, and
furrowed by precipitous torrent courses. Between
the mountains and the river we saw some high
sloping ground, presenting an abrupt face towards
the river. The Muri range probably extends to some
distance towards the north, as we could make out
several successive peaks behind each other. Tangale
appears to be the greatest elevation, and towards the
east the heights gradually diminish. Among the
opposite or Fumbina mountains, the hills were
more sloping and the peaks less acute, and among
them were several curious table-tops. The general
altitude was in this direction much inferior to Bak'n
Dutshi, Kwona, and other eminences at the western
extremity; but these altogether compose a large
group rather than a chain, and what are seen from
the river are merely the northern boundaries of a
mountainous region. Considerably beyond us, stand-
ing close to the river, and quite apart from the regular
range, we distinguished a peculiar conical hill, esti-
mated at about 500 feet in height, to which we gave
the title of " Mount Gabriel."
About half-past ten we entered a creek on the
north side, running nearly parallel with the river, and
shortly afterwards sighted a village, at which we soon
arrived. To our astonishment the first thing which
brought us up was our running the bow of the gig
against a hut, and on looking around we found the
196 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORINO VOYAGE, [chap. vi.
whole place to be flooded. We advanced right into the
middle of the village, and found no resting place ; right
and left, before and behind, all was water. People came
out of the huts to gaze at the apparition, and standing
at the doors of their abodes were, without the smallest
exaggeration, immersed nearly to their knees, and one
child I particularly observed up to its Avaist. Hoav
the interiors of the huts of these amphibious creatures
were constructed I cannot conjecture, but we saw
dwellings from which, if inhabited, the natives must
have dived like beavers to get outside. We pulled
in speechless amazement through this city of waters,
wondering greatly that human beings could exist under
such conditions. We had heard of wild tribes living in
caverns and among rocks, we had read of races in
Hindustan roosting in trees, of whole families in China
spending theu' lives on rafts and in boats in their
rivers and their canals ; we knew, too, of Tuariks and
Shanbah roaming over vast sandy deserts, and of
Eskimo burrowing in snow retreats, but never had we
witnessed or even dreamt of such a spectacle as that of
creatures endowed like ourselves, living by choice like
a colony of beavers, or after the fashion of the hippo-
potami and crocodiles of the neighbouring swamps.
A little distance from us we espied a large tree,
round the foot of which was a patch of dry land,
towards which we pulled, but grounding before
reaching quite to it, Mr. May and I waded to it,
instruments in hand, to take observations. We were
barely allowed to conclude, when nearly the entire
CHAP. TT.] THE UPPER BI'nUE. 197
population of the place, half-wading, half-swimming
across a small creek, came upon us, and stared at us
in wild astonishment. A hmTied set of sights being
taken, we carried our things back into the boat, and
as we wished to get another set about three quarters
of an hour after noon, we tried to amuse ourselves and
to spend the intervening time as we best could. We
were now able to look a little more attentively at our
new friends, who in large numbers crowded round,
and who, male and female, were nearly all equally
destitute of a vestige of clothing. One young man
understood a few words of Hausa, and by his means
we learnt that this was the Diilti of which we had
heard at Djin, and that the inhabitants were of the
same stock as at the other villages ; but they were by
far more rude, more savage, and more naked than any
of the other Baibai whom we had encountered. A
canoe came near us, lying in the bottom of which was
a curious large fish, of which I had just time to make
a rough eye sketch, when I had to retreat to the
boat, and Mr. May, w^ho had been exploring in
another direction, also returned. The behaviour of
these vrild people now attracted our notice ; the men
began to draw closer around us, to exhibit their arms,
and to send away the women and children. Their
attentions became momentarily more and more
familiar, and they plainly evidenced a desire to seize
and plunder our boat. A sour-looking old gentle-
man, who was squatting on the branch of a tree, was
mentioned as their king ; but if so, he made no
198 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chaf. vr.
endeavours to restrain the cupidity of his sans-culottes.
Part of a red-shirt belonging to one of our Krumen
was seen peeping out from below a bag, and some
advanced to lay hold of it, when suddenly my little
dog, who had been lying quietly in the stern sheets,
raised her head to see what was causing such a com-
motion. Her sudden appearance startled the Dulti
warriors, who had never seen such an animal before,
so they drew back to take counsel together, making
signs to me to know if she could bite, to which I
replied in the affirmative. Matters were beginning
to look serious ; our crew, as usual, were timid, and
Mr. May and I had only ourselves to depend upon in
the midst of three or four hundred armed savages, who
were now preparing to make a rush at us. There
was no help for it ; we had to abandon all hopes of
our remaining observations, and of so fixing an exact
geographical position. As at Djm, I seized a few
trinkets, and handing them hastily to those nearest
to us, we shoved off while the people were examining
these wondrous treasures.
Still anxious, if possible, to get some further
observations not far removed from the spot where
the former ones were taken, we pulled about among
trees and bushes, but without any success. At
length we shoved in among some long grass, hoping
to find dry land, but after having proceeded until
completely stopped by the thickness of the growth,
we still found upwards of a fathom of water. At
this moment Mr. May's ear caught a voice not far
CHAP. VI.] THE UPPER BI NUE. 199
behind us ; so we shoved quietly back, and found a
couple of canoes trying to cut off oui- retreat. Seeing
this we paddled vigorously back, there not being room
for using our oars, and the canoes did not venture
to molest us. We were quickly paddhng across the
flooded plain, when suddenly a train of canoes in
eager pursuit issued out upon us. There were ten
canoes, each containing seven or eight men, and they
were sufficiently close to us to allow us to see their
stores of arms. Our Kruboys worked most ener-
getically, and we went ahead at such a rate that our
pm'suers had complete occupation found them in
paddling, and could not use their weapons. At this
moment we were about a couple of hundi-ed yards from
the river, towards which we made as straight a course
as possible. Not knowing how matters might ter-
minate, we thought it advisable to prepare for defence,
so I took our revolver to load it, but now, when it was
needed, the ramrod was stiff and quite immoveable.
Mr. May got a little pocket-pistol ready, and we had
if required a cutlass, and a ship's musket, which the
Krumen, by this time in a desperate fright, wished
to see prepared, as they kept calling out to us, " Load
de big gun, load de big gun." Could an unconcerned
spectator have witnessed the scene, he would have
been struck with the amount of the ludicrous it con-
tained. There were our Kruboys, all as pale as black
men could be, the perspiration starting from every
pore, exerting to the utmost their powerful muscles,
while Mr. May and I were trying to look as uncon-
200 NARRATIVE OF AN" EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ti.
cerned as possible, and, to lessen the indignity of our
retreat, were smiling and bowing to the Dulti people,
and beckoning to them to follow us. Their light
canoes were very narrow, and the people were obliged
to stand upright. The blades of their paddles,
instead of being of the usual lozenge shape, were
oblong and rectangular, and all. curved in the direction
of the propelling stroke. It was almost a regatta,
our gig taking and keeping the lead. Ahead we
saw an opening in the bush, by which we hoped to
make our final retreat, but we were prepared, should
the boat take the ground, to jump out at once and
shove her into deep water. Fortune favoured us, we
reached the doubtful spot, and with a single stroke of
our paddles shot into the open river. Here we knew
we were comparatively safe, as if the natives tried
to molest us in the clear water, all we had to do was
to give their canoes the stem and so upset them ; our
only fear had been that of being surrounded by them
while entangled among the bushes. Our pursuers
apparently guessed that we had now got the
advantage, as they declined following us into the
river, but turning paddled back to their watery abodes,
and so ended the grand Dulti chase.
CHAPTER VII.
THE RETURN.
We were certainly not sorry that our affair at
Dulti had ended without our coming to any
, . , . T Sept. 29.
open rupture, which it was our pohcy as well
as our desire by all means to avoid, as we did not
wish to have it recorded that the first visit of
Europeans to these wild regions had been marked
by quarrelling or by bloodshed, as such an event
would have tended to convince these savages that
our advent was not that of friends, as we called
ourselves, but of foes. Much may be said in excuse
for the behaviour of these poor wretches. Accustomed
to visits from none but enemies, there arrived unan-
nounced at their village a party of strangers, whose
complexions were fair and resembled those of the
Pulbe whom they so dreaded. Actuated by no sense of
honour, nor restrained by any high moral or religious
sentiment, they merely saw in us a weak handful
whom they thought they could crush, and in our
clothes and instruments, inviting objects which they,
as the stronger party, ought to appropriate. That
was the only chain of reasoning followed by their
202 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. vrr.
savage minds ; they were powerful, we seemed to
be weak ; the temptation was too strong for them,
they made the attempt, and, fortunately for us, they
failed.
Our determination had previously been to advance
as far as we could until the noon of this day, and
then to return ; so, in accordance with our resolution,
we had now, although most reluctantly, to head
down the river. We could not have been at Dulti,
more than fifty or sixty miles from the Paro, and
had the wind blown as freshly during the first two
days of our excursion as it did upon the third, I
have little doubt but that we might have been able
to attain the wished-for confluence. As it was, we
had added about thirty miles to our chart, and
had visited several villages, and met with strange
people and stranger scenes. All the natives we
had encountered during our cruize were Baibai, but
those at Djin and Dulti used a distinct dialect from
the Djuku inhabitants further west. Our interpreter,
who understood a little Djuku, could make out many
words at Tshorao and at Lau, but afterwards he was
completely puzzled, From this I am inchned to
believe that there are several distinct dialects of the
Djtiku language ; and that the one spoken in Koro-
rofa differs considerably from that used by the more
eastern Baibai : and this accords well with what I
have since learnt from Dr. Barth, who informs me
that his specimens of Djuku, obtained near the Paro,
do not at all correspond with those given in Koelle's
CHAP. VII.] THE EETURN". 203
" Polyglotta Africana," which latter again we have
ascertained to agree with the spoken dialect of
Wukari.
Although Mr. May and myself much regretted
having so early reached our "ne plus ultra," yet
our boat's crew took a very different view of the
subject. Ever since we had visited Djin, they had
been living in fear and trembling ; and one Kruman,
not content with assuring us that he was destined
never again to see his wives and children, in canni-
balic horror, anticipated his fate, and in imagination
saw himself slain, cooked, and devoured. During
the ascent all hands had been too closely occupied
to allow of surveying, so this duty had now to be
resumed, the leadsman being stationed in the bows,
and Mr. May sketching in the sides of the river with
their ever-varying direction, and taking outline views
of the mountains. The westerly breeze blew freshly
against us, and being opposed to the current caused
a considerable ripple; but the stream being the
stronger, we went with but little exertion on our
part, at the rate of fully three knots an hour. The
sun's rays falling nearly directly upon us, through a
perfectly cloudless sky, were so powerfully felt, that
we were obliged in self-defence to set our awning,
although it somewhat retarded our progress. Just
before two o'clock we reached Djin, and landing at
the scattered huts to the westward of the town, got
a set of sights : while thus occupied, many natives
came across the swamp, and gathering around, were
204 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. vii.
urgent in their entreaties that we should re-visit
their city, which however we respectfully declined.
As they increased in numbers they showed a dis-
position to be again troublesome ; so our operations
being concluded, we gave a small present to our
guide of the day previous, and took our departure.
While close to a little grassy islet a few miles below
this, we came upon a small herd of river-horses in a
sportive humour, apparently playing at bo-peep or
some such analogous game. One suddenly popped
up its huge head close to us, but amazed at our
interruption, lost no time in again disappearing below
the surface. Shortly, Mount Laird and the eastern
end of Pleiad Island were made out, and passing
along the northern shore of the latter, by half-past
four o'clock we reached Bandawa, and by five, Lau ;
off both which villages we were met by numerous
canoes. BeloAv Lau we examined on the south bank
what had seemed to us, dming our ascent, a rocky
cliff ; but we now found it to consist of a bank of
red clay some fifteen feet high, with a layer of vege-
table mould on the top. As long as we could make
out the river's sides, we continued our progress, but,
though now only a few miles from Gurowa, being
unwilling to have a blank in our chart, we anchored
for the night, although the weather looked very
threatening, and distant lightning in the east pre-
saged a storm. We made, accordingly, every prepa-
ration, having our awning ready in case of rain.
The moon set shortly after midnight, and was sue-
CHAP. VII.] THE EETURN. 205
ceeded by intense darkness, every thing around being
unnaturally still : the air was hushed, the wind
'' . Sept. 30.
no longer sighed among the branches, and
nothing was heard save the rippling of the ceaseless
tide. The sky became completely overcast, one by one
the stars disappeared, while numerous indications
heralded an approaching tornado. A few minutes were
left us to make ready to meet it, which we employed to
the best advantage we could. More cable was given,
all heavy weights and top-hamper were placed in the
bottom of the boat, while Mr. May and I gathered our
instruments and our few valuables around us, and
covered ourselves as we best could with a scanty water-
proof sheet we had with us, merely leaving our heads
clear, so as to be able to look around. Our Krumen
stripped themselves, and wrapping their blankets about
them, were ready to attempt to swim for it in case of
necessity. Even my little dog seemed to comprehend
the coming strife of the elements, and nestled closer
beside me. The rudder was shipped, and the yoke-
lines laid ready to be seized at a moment's notice.
By this time the eastern heavens were brightly illu-
mined by flashes of vivid lightning, the electric
clouds quickly drawing nearer and nearer to us.
These flashes issued from strata higher than the
pitchy tornado cloud, which, by their light, showed
black as ink and rising rapidly above the horizon. Still
in our immediate neighbourhood the unearthly quiet
reigned, all noise, all motion being ignored, and the
very atmosphere • seeming a blank. In this state.
20G NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vii.
however, we were not long permitted to rest ; already
could we distinguish the hissing of the coming whirl-
wind, and straining our eyes, we fancied we could
discern a white line of foam stretching across the
river. Presently it burst on us in full fury ; the
hurricane, sweeping along, enveloped our tiny craft,
and large drops of rain struck fiercely against our
faces as we attempted to peer into the obscure.
Our only fear had been that the gale might catch us
on the broadside, as, our boat being but light, it
might have upset us, and left us among the croco-
diles and river-horses ; but, fortunately for us, it
blew right a-head, and we rode easily. The rain,
which threatened to be a deluge, ceased after a few
minutes, and, still more to our astonishment, the wind
greatly moderated, but these were succeeded by the
most terrific thunderstorm I ever witnessed. Mash
followed flash almost instantaneously, until at last
the whole sky was lit up with one incessant glow
of the most brilliant light. At last the clouds were
right over head, and for upwards of an hour every
part of the heavens to which we could look, had its
own electric bolt. It was impossible to count such
creations of the moment, but there must always have
been every instant from ten to a dozen flashes, until
at last we were utterly unable to distinguish each
single thunder-clap, as all were mingled in one pro-
longed and continued peal, now for a second more
faintly rolling, now again grandly swelling, and
echoing in deep reverberations from the rugged sides
CHAP. VII.] THE RETURN". 207
of the mountains. Everything was plainly visible ;
the island near us, the banks of the river, and the
more distant hills, all v^^ere distinctly seen.
Above us, around us, the forked lightning un-
weariedly still pursued its jagged, angular course,
while one huge bolt, disdaining the tortuous path
followed by its fellows, passed straight towards the
earth, piercing the ground opposite to which we lay
at anchor. Among the hills the storm raged still
more furiously, the lightning playing unceasingly
around each mountain summit, while ever and anon
a bright spark would suddenly descend into some of
the ravines below. Sometimes the passage of the
lightning was from cloud to cloud, even at consider-
able distances ; and then the stream of fire would
spread, furcate, and divaricate, like the branch of
some huge tree. These currents were of a purpler
tint, and of smaller diameter, while those which
descended were of a brighter red, and showed a
much larger body of light. These aerial bolts were
quite distinct from the ordinary discharge of two
opposite clouds, and were not the mere passage of
electricity from one to the other. During the occur-
rence of a few unusually near and vivid flashes, Mr.
May and I were distinctly sensible of a feeling of
warmth in our faces. At length there was a kind of
lull, and the storm seemed to be decreasing, when a
small whitish cloud was observed in the far east. It
was a true cumulo-cirro-stratus, and must have been
tremendously charged with electricity ; for as it passed
208 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. vii.
slowly along, we plainly saw constant powerful dis-
charges. For some miles it continued to scatter
around incessant forked bolts ; but at length these
became gradually fewer, and died away, while the
cloud altered its shape to cirro-cumulus. A fresh
breeze sprung up from the westward, and for a little
time we were apprehensive of a squall up the river,
which would not have been so pleasant ; but fortu-
nately this did not occur. By a little after three
o'clock this magnificent storm had quite ceased,
leaving no trace behind, save a distant thunder-peal,
or an occasional flash of hghtning among the moun-
tains. Intense darkness prevailed ; and now that the
war of the elements was ended, we could hear about us
the snorting of numerous hippopotami, which during
the tempest had in fear been cowering among the
reeds. Anxiously we waited for the morning ; but
it was not until half-past five that we could distin-
guish the river-banks ; but these again visible, we
weighed anchor, and resumed our voyage and our
survey.
Nothing could have been more fortunate for us
than our anchorage of the previous night. On
either hand were lofty mountain ranges, and as the
tornado approached, the clouds divided into two
parts, each attaching itself to one of these chains,
along which the storm raged in its greatest intensity,
leaving the intervening space, where we w^ere, com-
paratively free ; and it w^as to this circumstance that
our exemption from the wind and rain is to be
CHAP. Vii.] THE RETURN. 209
ascribed. A few miles below us we could see the
clouds again uniting, and pursuing their devastating
course along the river ; and to their further effects I
shall have again shortly to refer.
We commenced the morning's exploits by rudely
interrupting the early repast of a young river-horse,
which was comfortably browsing on a grassy islet, but
which, annoyed at the proximity of the impertinent
strangers, plunged headlong into the river, and from
the direction it took, probably passed right under the
boat, but we saw the creature no more. Thick mist
hung over the land, the horizon was cloudy and indis-
tinct, and the air felt damp and chill, very different
from the intensely hot atmosphere and clear sky
which we had experienced when we ascended this
part of the river. A little after seven we were
abreast of Tshomo, immediately above which town two
pretty green hills standing side by side, close to the
water's edge, were named Mounts Katherine and
Eleanor. We were now within sight of Gurowa, the
position of which we recognized by means of two
peculiar, very tall trees, and we immediately began
to look, but to look in vain for the " Pleiad." What
could have become of her, or where could she have
gone ? The river was still rising, so that could not
account for her disappearance. Many were our
conjectures, but at length we concluded that she had
gone to Zhiru to look for wood. By eight we were
at Gurowa, where we landed to call on our acquaint-
ances, but found the place now nearly a deserted
210 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLOHmG VOYAGE. [cuap. vii.
village. The various distinguished visitors, and other
persons of rank and quahty, who had been attracted
thither by the appearance of our steamer, had now
returned to their own seats or to the gaieties of the
metropolis, leaving behind them none but the
government officials and the aboriginal natives.
Still we were kindly welcomed, and these uncouth^
unlettered beings seemed a highly civilized race after
the pilfering savages we had met with during our
cruise. We could merely learn that the vessel had
left the morning after we did, certainly a hurried-
looking proceeding ; but at length our curiosity, or
perhaps our anxiety, was gratified by two despatches
being produced for me, one from my assistant, the
other from Dr. Hutchinson. The latter being semi-
official, I shall quote its information. From it we
learned, to our surprise, that the water had fallen
twenty-foiu- inches, and therefore it had been judged
expedient to proceed downwards. This we could not
well explain, as the top of a sandbank, near the
landing-place, which four days previously had been
distinctly visible, was now quite covered. We
further found that 10,000 cowries and some cloth
were to be left for our use to purchase provisions
with, so we made enquiries after this treasure, but
could hear nothing of it ; on appealing, however,
again to the document, we discovered a postscript
previously overlooked, which mentioned that after
due consideration the cowries were not to be left, as
there was some doubt of trusting the people. This
CHAP. VII.] THE KETURN. 211
error in judgment we did not approve of, as it might
have been a question between our starving and the
loss of a paltry sum, but fortunately we were quite
independent. None of us were great gourmands, so
oui" stock of provisions yet looked well up, our bag
of rice being nearly half full, and having a little cocoa
remaining. With the last of our stock of trinkets,
we made a few presents, and purchased a fowl ; then
having gathered some sticks for firewood, we bade
farewell to our friends, and went on in search of the
"Pleiad." The letter mentioned that she would
probably remain at Zhibu, a distance from Gurowa,
by the river, of about 100 miles.
This unlooked-for departure of the steamer con-
siderably disarranged our plans. Careful sights had
been taken before we left in the gig, and it was in-
tended that, on our return, the chronometers should be
re-rated, so as to insure accuracy during oui* voyage
down. I had also anticipated finding that the
trading gentlemen had reaped an abundant harvest,
as ivory had promised to be abundant and cheap, and
Ibrahim had gone to Hamaruwa to procure a larger
quantity for sale. But I feared that such an abrupt
departm'e would not be understood by the Sultan,
especially after all our fine speeches to him, and as
his people could not report that the river was actually
falling. I had hoped, too, that Mr. Crowther would
have been enabled to learn a little of the habits and
of the history of the Baibai, and to pick up further
information concerning these little -known regions.
p -2.
212 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vii.
I regretted particularly not again seeing our friend
Saraki'n Hausa, to whom we had been so much
indebted, and to whom I had promised a present on
my return, which I was now utterly unable to do, and
had no means either of explaining to him the cause.
I had certainly left orders that, in the event of any
emergency or any sudden fall of the water, the
" Pleiad " should not be kept at Gurowa for us ; but
here, without any such reason, we were left behind,
many miles from our ship, which, had we been in
need of help, could not have yielded it ; and indeed
had any mishap befallen us in the upper regions,
we and our boat's crew must either have fallen
among the barbarous tribes, or else made a desperate
effort to fight our way to Hamaruwa, while, from
the distance and the want of communication, our
friends on board could have known nothing of our
fate.
Silently, and with somewhat heavy hearts, we
shoved off, disappointed at finding all our plans thus
frustrated, and fearing that the sudden and inexpli-
cable departure of our party might sadly embarrass
any future visitors, and injure their chance of success
by impairing \}ciQ prestige which we had been all along
endeavouring to establish for white men. The sun,
however, hitherto concealed under the thick mists of
the morning, now bursting through his cloudy prison,
began to shine brilliantly in true tropical style, and
the brightness of surrounding objects soon served to
dispel our gloom. No longer searching for eddies,
CHAP. VII.] THE RETURN". 213
or creeping along in-shore, we now sought mid-
stream, and aided by a powerful cm-rent, we pro-
gressed very rapidly. Before noon we had passed
Zhiru, where the line of the river and the soundings
being connected mth what had been done formerly,
we were able to lay in our lead-line, and clap on an
additional hand to the oars. We recognized many
objects well remembered during our slow ascent, and
noted the mouth of the creek leading from Tshomo
and Wuzu, and passing Bomanda. This end, employed
by canoes en route from Zhiru to Hamaruwa, is not
nearly so eligible as that near Gurowa, as it is further
from the capital, and there being a strong tide to con-
tend against. Two hours afterwards we were opposite
Nak, and here we pulled close along the northern
side to look for the opening of a small river from near
Yakuba, said to join the Binue near this spot, but
w^ere not successful in our search. We had now
reached that portion of the river where we had ob-
served the banks lined with a beautiful fan-palm,
and which now again gladdened our sight. Shortly
after four o'clock we passed the spot where a fort-
night before we had wooded in the " Pleiad ;" but
the huge tree which we had then partially cut down,
and which was at that time fifty or sixty yards from
the river, was now surrounded by water, and we
pulled close past it. A little way further on, the
bank had given way, and the river was poming in
over the country with terrific violence. Grass and
bushes had been swept clean away, and nothing had
214 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vii.
been able to resist the force of the flood, save some
tall palms, the strong round trunks of which were
the only visible signs that the vast sheet of water
before us was but of moderate depth. Just before
sunset we reached a place where the river divided
into two branches, surrounding an irregular island,
and meeting at Point Lynslager. We had ascended
in the steamer by the western branch, but now we
determined on returning by the other, which we
fancied might be shorter, and besides by this route
we should be going over new ground. A little way
down, this branch again divided, and we selected,
without much consideration, the more eastern channel.
The current, as before, was with us, but soon began
to slacken. We nevertheless pulled on for a couple
of hours, but without reaching Point Lynslager.
Our course was tortuous, but the general direction
being correct, we continued our voyage. The creek
which had been gradually narrowing, now began to
spread out, and at length the vast expanse of water
which we saw by the moonlight, plainly indicated
that we were cruising about over submerged country.
Our men were tired ; but being timid, they said
they wished to pull till they reached the "big
water ;" but signs of exhaustion being evident, and
not being well able to pilot ourselves among the
tree-tops, we anchored in a convenient spot in two
and a half fathoms, after a pull of about eighty miles.
We were nearly free from mosquitoes, and the only
sounds heard throughout the night were the grunts
CHAP, vir.] THE RETURN". 215
of hippopotami, revelling, no doubt, in sucli a con-
genial situation.
Morning shone out fine and clear, and with the first
peep of dawn our anchor was weighed. Mr,
^ ^ ° Oct. 1.
May got to the mast-head, but made no dis-
covery ; but as it got a little more light, we made
out to our delight, though at a great distance, the
conical top of Mount Forbes, which formed an excel-
lent leading-mark, and which also showed us that we
were more to the southward than we had reckoned.
We also distinguished in the north-west some high
land, for which, as we thought it might be near the
river, we accordingly steered. The depth of water
varied from two to four fathoms, the average being
about two and a half, and a slight current, of about
one knot, still remained in our favour. As far as we
could observe, all around, for many miles, was one
vast extended lake, the tops of clumps of trees showing
here and there like little scattered islets. Every-
thing wore marks of a deluge. A savoury odour
borne down by the breeze called our attention to
the decomposing carcase of a buffalo, surprised in
the low lands by the flood, while still nearer to us
floated the dead body of a lioness, which, though
at any other time I would have looked on it as an
invaluable prize, was now, in our hurry and difficulty,
allowed to pass unmolested. The trees and the tops
of the bushes were covered with locusts eagerly
seeking refuge from the world of waters, or else
swarmed with other innumerable forms of insect
216 NAKRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. tii.
life, enougli to have gladdened the eyes and rejoiced
the heart of any entomologist, but from which I was
obhged to content myself with picking, en passant, a
few stray specimens. We observed also, afterwards,
a canoe paddled by two natives ; but not being able
to see any habitation, or any dry ground towards
which they might direct their frail bark, we began
to speculate whether the Aborigines of these localities
might not be amphibious animals. We continued
to sail in a south-west direction, believing that ulti-
mately we must thus reach the main river ; and at
length, about nine o'clock, could hardly believe our
eyesight, when right before us coursed a rapid stream.
Into this we quickly pushed, and found oiu-selves,
to the especial satisfaction of the Krumen, once
more in the Binue, having pulled for nearly seven
hours, and over fully twenty miles of flooded country,
and having found ample reasons why these regions
remain uninhabited.
The spot where we rejoined the Binue was several
miles below the junction of the Akam or Bankundi
river, and we regretted that we had missed seeing the
narrow portion of the river just above that place, as
we had been curious to note the state and force of the
current at full flood, as we remembered well the
rapidity with which it ran during our ascent, when
it had nearly baffled om* utmost efforts. Our men
now pulled with redoubled vigour, and, taking good
heed not again to try dubious channels, we went
cheerily along, hoping to reach Zhibu by the evening.
CHAP. vii.J THE RETURN. 217
However, about half-past eleven, one of our men,
quick and sharp-sighted as Kriimen ever are,
suddenly exclaimed " Dere de ship," and sure enough,
some miles a-head of us, we could make out her
mast-heads, her hull being concealed from us by an
intervening point. Knowing that there was no toAvn
in that neighbourhood, we were much puzzled to
fancy what she could be doing; but, on getting
nearer, finding that she was broadside to the stream,
and evidently not at anchor, the real cause was too
apparent. It was not, therefore, with the most com-
fortable feelings that we got alongside, and stepped
on board, to find the " Pleiad " aground in a very
awkward position.
We were soon put in possession of the movements
of the steamer. Mr. Harcus, careful and zealous as
he invariably was, found on going ashore that the
water had drained off some low grounds, where it had
accumulated after heavy rain. Anxious about the
safety of the ship, and desirous of fulfilling my orders,
he made numerous inquiries about the state of the
river, and received conflicting replies. Mr. Crowther
and Mr. Richards, both acquainted with African
seasons, assured him that there was no danger in
remaining ; but others on board, some of whom had
for some time previously been alarmed at our long
stay, and who had been frequently asking me when I
intended to retrace our steps, thinking that since I
was absent the chief obstacle against turning back
was removed, exerted all their persuasions and argu-
218 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vii.
ments now to accomplish this feat, and succeeded in
inducing Mr, Harcus to believe that an actual fall of
water had taken place. Accordingly, the " Pleiad "
left, and having but a small stock of firewood on
board, the fuel was soon exhausted, and the only
remaining plan of descent was by allowing her to drop
down with the stream, which, Mr. Harcus, having a
thorough acquaintance with river navigation, managed
beautifully. At length, on the second day, that was
on the 29th, he was desirous of passing by a narrow
channel, which offered the greatest depth of water.
To prepare against any contingency, a hand was
stationed by the anchor in order that it might be let
go at a moment's notice. Unfortunately, just at the
mouth of this place, the man at the helm either paid
no attention or did not understand the orders ; the
ship's head was paying off in the wrong direction,
so Mr. Harcus sung out to let go the anchor, a com-
mand which was obeyed after the lapse of about a
minute. This delay, short as it was, was fatal;
before she could be brought up, the vessel struck on
the weather end of a long bank, and remained fast,
with a powerful current playhig on her broadside and
driving her further on. The tornado of Friday night
had been experienced in full force, the wind blowing
with terrific violence, and sweeping the decks. Such
was the history of this unfortunate voyage ; the ship
had now been nearly forty-eight hours in this position,
and every day the river was expected to fall, and if so,
she would very soon be left high and dry.
CHAP. VII.] THE RET.UKN. 219
Mr. Harcus appeared worn out with anxiety and
hard work, but no one, except Mr. Guthrie, seemed
to be at all zealous in their assistance. Having
received his report, and ascertained the various par-
ticulars, fresh efforts were commenced, but, from
the rapidity of the stream, much difficulty was expe-
rienced in laying out the anchors in good positions.
By night all hands were well exhausted, and labour
was suspended until the following morning, when the
attempts were again renewed, and, in the course of
the forenoon, were crowned with success, as we
managed to get the afterpart of the vessel hove off
until the current caught her on the opposite quarter,
when she speedily swung round to an anchor pre-
viously laid out a-head. The remainder of the day
was spent in repairing damages, and preparing for
another start ; but we were all rejoiced at being once
more afloat, and freed from the difficulties which
had so seriously threatened us.
During the forenoon a canoe was observed coming
up the river, and on being hailed came alongside. It
contained a Bautshi trader returning with two slaves
and some ivory ; the practice being to buy both of
these commodities at one time, and during any land
travelling to oblige the slaves to carry the ivory. The
latter being of good quality was speedily purchased,
but with the other we could have no concern ; and on
the man's departm-e Mr. CroAvther besought him to
be kind and considerate towards the poor captives,
which he promised to be. The slaves, two young
220 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vir.
men, were secured by irons in the bottom of the
canoe, and looked sullen and savage. They were
Baibai, and had been purchased at G6nikoi, the chief
town of a large district in Kororofa. This town is
situated on the side and top of a hill, and is about
five days from the river. During the journey travel-
lers must sleep mostly in the bush, there being fcAv,
if any, villages on the way. The inhabitants are all
Baibai, are pagans, and speak Djuku ; they are all
clothed, though scantily, some of the women wearing
a covering made of leaves. He had with him several
spare pairs of slave-irons, one of which I pm'chased,
and was glad to find it was of native manufacture,
and had not been procured from any people calling
themselves civilized. He had also with him several
bundles of pieces of iron, pointed towards the ex-
tremities, but thicker in the middle. Similar pieces
we had seen at Gurowa, but had not ascertained their
use, and were now surprised to find they were money,
and therefore analogous to the hoe-shaped pieces
formerly seen at O'jogo. One hundred of these,
which were named " Kantai," our friend informed us
formed the average price of a male slave from Hama-
ruwa to Wukari, so much more were these bits of
metal esteemed than human creatures. He likewise
told us that horses were sent from Bautshi to Gomkoi,
and that for one horse five slaves could be procured.
He confirmed the intelligence we had formerly
gleaned about the small confluent branch which we
had seen, which was, he said, named Bankiindi, Akam
CHAP. VII.] THE RETUKK. 221
and Wui'obo being villages on its banks. This trader
was bound for Dali, a town on the right bank, about
a mile above where we were ; thence he intended to
proceed inland to Darapara, to Wazai, and to Yakuba.
The inhabitants of Bautshi were, he stated, nearly
all, if not all, Muhainmadans, and the languages
spoken were Hausa and Pulo, but principally the
former.
Everything being ready, we commenced our voyage
about nine o'clock, and under Mr. Harcus's
management dropped down beautifully. We
once got into shallow water for a short time, but the
depth was mostly very great, often from ten to twelve
fathoms. Nearly all along the banks were flooded,
and the country inundated. Once the current swept
us alongside the bank, and we got entangled among
the bushes, but by the use of our sweeps and a kedge
we got off easily. By seven o'clock we were off"
Zhibu, and accordingly fired a gun and dropped
anchor.
By this time a good many of the Krumen were in
the sick list, affected, as before mentioned, with
sweUing of the feet and legs, and with great debihty.
Their daily allowance of rice had been increased by
Dr. Hutchinson to two pints, but proved an inadequate
quantity. We had, hitherto, been rather unsuccess-
ful in our inquiries after suitable provisions, so that
I had now to order more vigorous steps to be taken
to endeavour to procure fresh meat and vegetables
for their use, and our small remaining stock of wine
222 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vii.
was laid aside entirely for the sick. The firemen who
had immense fatigue to undergo, in an atmosphere
often of from 120° to 130° F., had been originally
allowed a quarter of a pound of salt meat daily, which
I had previously doubled, but now I ordered fresh
meat to be issued also to them whenever practicable. I
am obliged again to allude to these matters, that any
subsequent expedition may avoid making similar blun-
ders, and so escape the amount of sickness which we
encountered, and which was solely to be ascribed to
deficient and improper nutriment. Though completely
opposed, as I have stated, to the regular employment
of spirits, an occasional glass of grog would have been
of immense service to our crew, and I should make a
point of being well stocked with rum before again
undertaking a similar voyage. The late Mr. Consul
Beecroft used always to allow his Kriimen fresh meat
and a small quantity of spirits every day, by which
means he not only kept them in good health, but got
from them a much larger amount of labour than they
could have executed under the falsely economical
system. I regret much thus to be compelled to
admit that we suff'ered from such a complaint as
scm-vy, a disease the causes leading to which are now
so thoroughly understood, that under the most ordi-
nary management it is never seen, and which bids
fair to be soon remembered with things which have
been, but in the victualling arrangements made at
Fernando Po, common sense as well as physiological
principles were entirely overlooked.
CHAPTER VIII.
FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS.
In the morning we dropped into our former
position, and passing a hawser ashore, hauled close in.
During our previous visit the bank had been six or
seven feet above the river, but now it was com-
pletely covered, and the whole country was under
water to within 120 yards of the walls of Zhibti.
This being a good wooding station, our first care was
to send the Krumen ashore with their hatchets to
procm'e a supply. Having lost the opportunity of
getting fresh rates for the chronometers at Gurowa,
I determined to remain here for five days, to enable
Mr. May to obtain them satisfactorily; and ac-
cordingly a set of sights was taken this morning.
Being slightly indisposed, I did not go on shore, but
requested Mr. Crowther to visit the king for me, and
to give him a red velvet tobe, which I had kept for
him. Several visitors came on board, from some of
whom I obtained information about the river. One
man had been at the confluence of the Paro, and
mentioned among other places, which he had visited,
Tshamba,Bundii, and Kwontsha, possibly the Bundang
2^1. NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap.viii.
and Kontsha of Petermann's Atlas. They all knew
G6mkoi, and said that halfway to it was a town named
Suntai, while about three days' journey beyond it
was another Djiiku town, Alvinge. A town which we
had seen above Zhibu, we learnt, was named Sharo
or Tsharo, and its chief Belal, and another town, two
days' journey towards the east, was called E'rima.
Opposite Tsharo, on the Bautshi side, is a village
Basoi. I found, too, that Wukdri was not above a
long day's journey from Zhibii, and that the route
was much frequented. Mr. Crowther, on his return,
told me he had visited the King, whom he found surly
and uncivil, hardly thanking him for his present.
The Galadima, again, or Prime Minister, had behaved
to him with much kindness and cordiality. The King
said that the sword he had received formerly was
broken, and that he therefore wanted another one ; but
on being asked to exhibit the broken blade, he made
various frivolous excuses. Mr. Crowther ascertained
that a messenger from the King of Wukari was now
in the town, waiting for us, and, if possible, ready to
be our guide to that place.
Being very desirous of visiting this important town,
we went on shore next morning, and calling on the
Galadima, asked him to accompany us to the King,
which he readily did. On seeing his majesty, I told
him the purport of our errand, and asked him for a
guide and horses, saying, I was ready to pay him any
reasonable price. Plis manner from the very com-
mencement plainly indicated that he was not over-
CHAP, viir.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 225
anxious that we should perform this journey,
probably from a feeling of jealousy, and being
unwilling that his rival should derive any knowledge
of us, except through him. I asked to see the
Wukari messenger, but on his being produced he
could give us no information, being awed by the
presence of the King. Bohari then said, there were
only two horses in Zhibu, — a statement which we
knew to be positively false ; and he added, that these
horses could only take us as far as Zu, an open place
about halfway to Wukari, where traders from the
two towns meet ; that at this place we should have to
sleep all night, and send to Wukari for fresh horses,
and for his assistance in the matter he demanded
3 long sabres and 30,000 cowries, — a most exorbitant
charge. Mr. Crowther mentioned to him the inhospi-
tality of wishing to make strangers sleep in the bush,
when, if he liked, he could easily otherwise arrange
it, and I told him that I would consent to give him
one sabre and 16,000 cowries, which was ample
allowance. Seeing he could not deter us from trying,
he drew back from the bargain, on which I got up,
telling him that he was breaking faith with us, and
that I would no longer treat with him. He now
asked me again to be seated, and after some further
conversation, it was agreed that horses should be
ready for us next morning at sunrise, on which we
took our leave. He spoke, however, with such
reluctance, that I fully anticipated finding fresh
obstacles put in our way.
Q
226 NAliRATlVE OF AN EXPLORIKG VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
We found extensive preparations being made for
enlarging the town. Numbers of long stakes had
been cut, and laid at regular intervals, so as to make
the v»alls include a space of about 100 yards beyond
their present site. Outside the gates were fields
planted with ground nuts {AracJds), of which there
were two kinds ; one, the commoner one, with obovate
leaves and a yellow flower, yielding the ordinary nut ;
the other, not yet in flower, but with elongate, acumi-
nate leaves, and said to produce a round nut. The
steward had been tolerably successful in his pursuit of
fresh meat and vegetables, as several sheep and goats
had been purchased, besides a good supply of pumpkins
• — a most valuable acquisition in the state we were in.
Shortly after daylight Mr.Crowther, Dr. Hutchinson,
Mr. Richards, and I went ashore, and proceeding to
the King, found, as we had fully expected, no horses.
On demanding the reason of this, we were told that
we had not paid for them, a statement which con-
firmed our ideas of the King's secret intentions, as
the day before, when I offered to pay one half before
starting, and the remainder on our return, I was
told not to mind. Rather indignantly, I asked
Bohari if he thought we were going to cheat him, or
whether he thought the bargain was not fully as
advantageous for him as for ourselves. Dr. Hutchin-
son offered to go on board and fetch the sabre and
cowries, which he did, and they were displayed to the
King, who then said, that he did not want cowries,
and that they did not suit him. We then asked for
CHAP, viu] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 227
the messengers, and said we should perform tlie
journey on foot under their guidance ; but the King
said, that could not be, as they were not ready, having
yet to prepare food for themselves. I said, that was
no matter, as we should supply them with abundance,
on which, at a sign from the King, they disappeared,
and could not again be found. Finding all our
endeavours to be thus frustrated, and having no means
of finding the way ourselves, I rose and told the King
that he had grossly deceived us, and that I should
not again believe him, and that should I again return to
the Binue, as I hoped I should, I should take care to
inform the Sidtan of Hamaruwa, his master and our
friend, of his bad behaviour. He winced under this,
and I could see, from the ominous silence around, that
he met with no support from his followers. I then
refused to shake hands with him, but went directly on
board with my party. We had hardly got outside
the gates when a messenger came running after us,
asking us to return ; but I replied that if the King
had any communication to make, he should send it
properly on board, more particularly as now the sun
was high up, and it was much too late to start.
Shortly after oiu* return on board, one of the
Galadima's people came off, and told us, from his
master, that, after our departure, the Galadima and
several others had spoken strongly to the King about
his conduct, and that it was trusted no quarrel would
ensue ; on which I asked him to thank the Gala-
dima for his good offices, and to assm-e him that I
Q 2
228 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
had 110 dispute witli anyone but Boliari. Not long
afterwards tlie Galadima himself arrived, and said
that in consequence of the urgent remonstrances
made by himself and other head-men, he hoped yet to
arrange matters and to be able to procure guides and
horses for us for next day ; and he therefore requested
that I would again see the King, whose behaviour
he extremely regretted. I replied by thanking him
for his good wishes and kind endeavours, but said,
that, as the King had wilfully and openly broken
faith with us, I could not again trust liim. I added,
that as I looked on him (the Galadima) as our sincere
friend, I would, entirely out of deference to his
feelings, send messengers to the King this evening,
and that, as I had not the remotest wish that the
people should suffer for the fault of their ruler, I
hoped trading would go on as usual. With this he
expressed himself satisfied and took his leave. In the
afternoon I sent Mr. Richards to the Galadima and
the King, and Mr. Crowther volunteered to accom-
pany him. On their return they gave such an
account of their interview that I immediately deter-
mined to decline having any further communication
with the King, and sent to intimate this resolution,
thanking at the same time all those who had assisted
us. A kind of festival was held at Zhibu this after-
noon at the installation of a new Saraki'n Doki, or
Master of the Horse, of which Mr. Crowther has
given a description in his journal.*
* Pages 134, 135.
CHAP. VIII.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 2:^9
Bohari is a Baibai by birth, and completely desti-
tute of the PiJo polish. It is easy at a glance to
distinguish between those who have Fulata blood and
the true Baibai. The former have mostly skins of a
lighter colour, in person they are taller and more
slender, and their general appearance is more civilized ;
they have the head shaved, wear head-dresses and
Hausa tobes ; their expression is less rude, and their
manners are milder. The Baibai, again, are darker-
skinned, shorter, and more robust ; their features are
more strongly marked, their behaviour is more
rude, and their looks more savage. They seldom or
never shave the head, which is kept uncovered, but
have, occasionally, the hair on either side done in two
slender plaits. The ear-lobes are large and pendulous,
and pierced with large holes, through which are
passed ponderous ear-rings. The shape of the head
is usually circular, and the forehead retreats greatly.
The upper arm, however, is not marked as among
the Baibai further up the river.
The sick-list continued to increase, being recruited
almost entirely from among the Kruboys, the
symptoms in all being of a similar description.
Whether from fear, or whether from an order from
the King, I do not know, but no trade was carried
on, and very few natives came off to us. Some
Wukari men were anxious to know why we did not
visit their city, on which we told them the reason,
which they said they would make known on their
return. Mr. Crowther got some specimens of Djiiku
230 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING TOY AGE. [chap. viii.
words, whicli were found, on comparison, to agree
almost exactly with those of Koelle. A slave-hunting
expedition was said to be preparing, and a man came
off to Mr. Crowther to ask for a charm to insm*e
success.
The water first showed decided signs of falling
about the 3rd of October, and by the 5th the decrease
was very perceptible. On the evening of that day,
having completed our wooding, we let go our warp,
and swung further out into the stream, which relieved
us greatly from the attacks of mosquitoes, and besides
removed us from the immediate proximity of what
was now commencing to be marshy land. On
Sunday afternoon I sent Mr. Richards to say farewell
to the Galadima, to thank him for his friendly
behaviour, and to offer him a present.
Monday morning, being the fifth from the date of
our arrival, turned out fine and clear, so that
Oct. 9.
there was no difficulty in getting sights, and
finishing the chronometer business ; so, having laid
in a good stock of fresh provisions, we weighed anchor,
and tm-ned om' head down the river. Just before we
started, some fish were brought on board, amongst
which I was delighted at finding a Pohjpterus, pro-
bably either P. Se^iegalensis, or else a new species,
as it differs from the one found in the Nile, Some
miles below Zhibu we passed a long island, which
was named " Crowther Island," after our excellent
and much-esteemed friend. A little before one we
anchored off Gandiko, and found the banks still so
CHAP, viii.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 23 i
flooded, that when we went ashore the boat took us
very nearly into the town. As a matter of course we
paid a visit to the King, and renewed our former
acquaintance. We saw some very fine sheep here,
the largest we had met with. They all stood high,
having long legs, and had black and white fleeces.
Sheep in this country seldom or never get fat, their
fleeces are more hairy than woolly, and never grow
long or thick. The King having heard me inquire
about corn, sent me off" some bundles of the diff'erent
kinds grown in the vicinity. There was very little
trade, some hippopotami teeth and lead-ore being
the only articles offered for sale.
The kinds of corn grown along the Binue are four ;
namely, maize, or Indian corn,* two kinds known
along the coast as Guinea or Dawa (often, though
incorrectly, Bower) corns, and Gero. The first is
universally cultivated ; the stalks grow to a height
of from six to eight feet, and it is known in Hausa
as Masara. It is used mostly whole, being roasted
and eaten either alone or with a little pepper and
salt, in both of which ways it is very palatable ; it
is more seldom ground. The ripe grain is yellow,
but is also found white, purple, or red. The
Guinea corns are also widely spread, especially one
kind, known as Dawa or Dawa-Masara ; the other,
called Dawura, being more rare. They are species
of IIolcus, and the stalks grow to a height of from
eight to ten feet, or even upwards. The fruit is
* Zea Mays.
232 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vin.
arranged in loose panicles, and the grains, when
ripe, are pale-red, though white and dark-coloured
varieties also occur. This grain is used, when
ground, for making bread and other articles of food,
the sweetest and most pleasant native beer is pre-
pared from it, and a red dye is said to be obtained
from the ripe stalks. The fourth kind, named Gero,
is very abundant along the Binue, but to the west-
ward of the Kwora is said not to be so plentiful,
though I have been told that it is cultivated on the
upper parts of the Gambia. It is a species of Peni-
cillaria, and its small, rounded, greenish-yellow seeds
are nearly sessile, on a long cylindrical spike. It is
in daily household use, and most of their beer is
prepared from it, though it is not so palatable as the
beer from the Dawa.
Before leaving Gandiko, Mr. May got a good
observation for latitude, and also measured by tri-
angulation the breadth of the river, which he had
also done at Zhibu. I had a short visit from the
old chief of the neighbouring town, Gankera, after
which, about eight o'clock, we got under steam and
passed rapidly downwards. In the vicinity of Gan-
diko are numerous trees of a species of Kiaelia
(p. 128), bearing a very peculiar fruit. The trees are
of considerable size, with digitate leaves ; and I have
generally noticed them as growing very near the
river, — often, during the floods, actually in the water,
so much so, that I have gathered the fruit from the
boat. The fruit is pendulous from the extremity of
CHAP, vin.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 233
a long slender stalk, and bears some resemblance to
a large, compressed cucumber. It varies in lengtli
from eight or ten inches to a couple of feet, and is
filled with a somewhat hard, white pulp. The fruit
is not used by the natives, but is said to be eaten by
monkeys and by elephants, and also by some birds.
The first spot where we met with this tree was near
jogo ; it was more abundant further up the river,
and the last place where I saw it, was between
Tshomo and Lau.
Below Gandiko the country in its then deluged
condition w^as rather uninteresting; but we soon
came to the region of hills, those pretty green ones
near the river, which we had named during our as-
scent. We passed in succession. Mount Traill, Mounts
Trenabie and Adams, and finally reaching Mount
Herbert, anchored just beyond it, in seven fathoms.
An unfortunate accident befel us here. By the neglect
of the man acting as boatswain the cable was not
properly bitted, and as we had a five-knot current
carrying us astern, and our steam being exhausted,
the chain spun out rapidly. The break was worn by
constant use, and of no service; and it appeared
that the cable would run out to the clinch, when all
of a sudden the end appeared on deck, and before
it could be jammed in the hawse-hole, or anything
else done, it had disappeared overboard. The other
anchor was immediately let go, and brought us up.
Some canoes tried to come ofl" to us, but owing
to the immense strength of the current were nearly
234 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vin.
upset alongside, and one only managed to get pro-
perly to us. It brought a message from the chief of
the village situated on the height above us, named
An'yishi, to welcome us, and ask us to come ashore ;
so I sent to say we would go and visit him. We
accordingly went ; and finding with some difficulty
the landing-place — which was quite concealed by tall
trees — prepared to ascend by a winding path a chfF
composed of volcanic blocks. I measured its height
above the water by the aneroid barometer, and found
it to be seventy-six feet. The first sound we heard
on arriving at the top was, " Salaam Aleikum;" to
which we replied, " Aleikum Salaam." This is a
form of salutation we very rarely met with, the more
frequent one along the Binue being the " Hausa
sanu " or " lafia," the answer to which is " Birka,"
or thanks. The word " Marhaba " is employed to
welcome a person from a distance, or who has been
long absent. Fulatas often use " Wal-ejama," mean-
ing, " How d'ye do ? "
An'yishi is a small village situated rather pictu-
resquely at the top of the cliff", and nearly at the
foot of Mount Herbert. It was first built about two
years ago, and is inhabited entirely by Djiikus of
Kororofa, being directly subject to Wukari. The
place was surrounded by numerous cultivated patches
bearing maize and Dawa corn, and among the huts
were many Papaw trees and Croton bushes. These
latter I have noticed in great abundance near many
of the towns, and they grow, I have been informed.
CHAP, viii.] FURTHEE DISAPPOINTMENTS. 235
in equal plenty near the coast. Those which we
noticed were covered with fruit, the oil from which
might be easily prepared, and form a very valuable
product ; the seeds are employed medicinally by the
natives. We went to see the chief, who received
us in a most friendly manner in the open air, just
outside of his hut. Mats, and buffalo and leopard
skins were spread for us to sit upon, and we com-
menced our interview through the usual chain of
interpreters ; but one of them making some mistake,
the chief laid aside etiquette, and addressed us
directly in Hausa. When we told him of our
wishes and the objects of our mission, he raised
his hands in utter amazement, and it was some time
before he could find words to express his gratitude.
Poor man ! brought up as he had been in the midst
of war and rapine, driven from place to place by
rude oppressors, obhged day and night to keep
a vigilant watch for the stealthy approach of the foe,
and never daring to perform a journey but with
sword girt and spear in hand, such an idea as that of
simple philanthropy was quite ignored in his system
of philosophy, nor could he imagine people coming
from a far-distant land to endeavour to assist or do
good to utter strangers. He told us that only
two years previously he and his people had been
driven from their former seat, Sundiibe, by Beriberi
from Lafia, who frequently during the dry season
ford the river. Wukari was described as a very
large town, about twice the size of Zhibii, and
236 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viir.
tliickly populated. The king, Anju, is much Hked,
being himself a Djiiku ; he speaks Hausa with ease.
From An yishi to Wukari is three good days' joui'ney;
the first stage to Akwona occupies about ten hours,
thence to Ariifu or Afiai, two towns not far from
each other, twelve hours ; and finally to Wukari also
twelve hours. He said he had sent to some neigh-
bouring villages to ask the head-men to come and
meet us, and that the following day they would all
be present. A man was pointed out to us who had
lately been taken captive near Gandiko, but who had
managed to effect his escape. Gandiko, Gankera,
and I'bi, or their inhabitants, they call Katshara or
Katshala, but from what cause we could not learn.
The territory on the other side of the river, opposite
to An'yishi, belongs to the Keana district of Doma ;
the distance from An yishi to Keana is a day and a
half, the night being spent at Magidi. The bearing
of Keana from An'yishi is about west north-Avest, and
that of Magidi about north-west. They confirmed
the name " Nu," as being the correct Kororofa desig-
nation for the river, but said it was quite as well
known as the Binue.
From what we learnt, the journey to and from Wukari
would occupy from six to seven days, and we also were
told that the King would be offended if we did not re-
main with him for five or six days, so that under any
cu'cumstances it could not be performed in fewer than
ten days. This was an amount of time, which with
a rapidly falling river, a sicldy crew, and many things
CHAP, viil] further disappointments. 237
on board requiring constant looking after, 1 could
not consider myself justified in so occupying, and
had, therefore, to give up the last chance of visiting
Wukari. I resolved, however, to send a message to the
King, telling how our endeavours had been opposed
and frustrated, and hoping that we should be more
successful another time. The cloth worn by the
inhabitants of An yishi is chiefly of Wukari manu-
facture, but some of a finer texture, and occasionally
with a red thread through it, is from the Doma
markets. The usual pattern of Wukari cloth is an
alternate blue and white stripe, but the blue is
scarcely of so dark a sliade as what I saw in other
places. The cloth is rather coarse, and is thick and
strongly made.
The following morning we again went ashore, and
getting under a laro-e tree, soon established
^ ^ ^ . . . Oct. 11.
a market. Dr. Hutchinson looked principally
after ivory, the steward sought after provisions, while
Mr. Crowther and I inquired after manufactures
and ornaments, &c. Some" balls of camwood were
brought to us, but they had been got from other
markets. We purchased several large lumps of lead-
ore, got near Arufo,* where it is said to be in
abundance, and to be found near the surface. It
can be bought cheaply, as the people do not place
much value on it. Among the spectators we were
* Since oui' return, specimens of this have been analysed in London,
and yield the following results :— " Galena or lead ore, sixteen hundred
weight of lead (equal to 80 per cent.) and three ounces of fine silver to
the ton of twenty hundred weight." — See Hutchinson's Narrative, p. 146.
238 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [cuap. viii.
much pleased at recognising some Mitshis, and soon
got into conversation with the head man of the party,
a most inteUigent person, named Njoro, who spoke
Mitshi, Djdku, and Hausa. He called himself
Mutshi, which was, he said, the same as the word
Mitshi used further down. He said we were not
far from the confines of the Mitshi territory, and
that his own village, named Wum, or Iwum was
not far distant. He was anxious that we should
go home with him, and said he hoped on our re-
turn we would visit his countrymen. He told us
that the people of Kororofa and of Mitshi are friendly,
and that along the frontiers then- towns are much
mixed, as he expressed it to Mr. Crowther by
inserting the fingers of the one hand among those
of the other. He then gave Mr. Crowther the
Mitshi numerals, and some other words of that lan-
guage. He asked us the name of our monarch, which
we repeated to him several times, until he himself
said slowly, Vic-to-ria, which he remarked sounded
well, and like the name of a great Queen. Being
obliged to go on board, I asked Mr. Crowther, w^ho
was going to w^alk with Dr. Hutchinson to Antifo, a
town on the other side of Mount Herbert where they
would meet several chiefs, to deliver a message for
the King of Wukari. This he did to Abiki, the chief,
who said that his Galadima was shortly about to pro-
ceed to Wukari, where he should deliver it in person.
Njoro, being anxious to see the ship, w^nt on board
with me, and was greatly delighted w^ith everything
CHAP. VIII.] FUETHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 239
he saw, but was especially struck with a large mirror
in the saloon, and with the clock, the use of which
was explained to him. Among other little bits of in-
formation which he gave me, was that the name of
the King of Keana was Aduso. He told me also of
two Kororofa towns, one named Kwoto, about two
days' journey from An'yishi, and another called A'kate,
very near the Mitshi boundary. He and his followers
were all tatooed, just like the Mitshis we had met at
O'jogo, and though with, similar features, were less
savage-like, and wonderfully more intelligent and less
suspicious. Nothing could have exceeded the frank
manner in which Njoro made our acquaintance, or
the open way in which he answered our questions, or
passed remarks to us. Several of the females of his
party were stained with camwood, and one boy had on
a necklace of English trade beads. Yams are said to
be cultivated about Wukari ; a few specimens were
seen at An'yishi, but of a very indifferent nature.
We were told that the name of the Pulo who first
made war on Wukari was Sufa.
The river ran with such velocity that our light gig,
pidling five oars, and manned by as many muscular,
stalwart Krumen, was unable to make any headway,
so it was impossible to attempt to drag for om* lost
anchor in the boat. We therefore cut up all the
wood we had on board, and getting up good steam,
got our grapnels overboard from the steamer, and
worked for nearly three hours, until we had only
sufficient fuel left to carry us to the nearest wooding
240 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [cuap. viii.
place. We had, therefore, after an unsuccessful hunt,
to turn the ship's head downwards, and to commence
our descent in the midst of heavy rain, the atmos-
phere being so thick as almost to prevent our seeing
the shore on either side, and quite to spoil our parting
view of the pretty hills of the Ellesmere range. Of
several villages seen during our ascent, the only
evidences now visible were the tops of some huts,
showing just above the surface of the water. We
passed along the north side of Washington Island,
and my intention had been to stop at Abitshi, but on
nearing this place we coidd hardly recognize it, so
completely was its appearance altered by the greater
part being under water. We therefore went on, and
at a little before three o'clock anchored ofiP Rogan-
Koto. Our friend Onuse came off to welcome us,
and she informed us that our messenger, Ztiri, was
waiting for us at O'jogo; she did not know the
particulars of his trip, but no white man had returned
with him. Scarcely was our visit to the chief Jada
over, when numbers of canoes came off, bringing with
them for sale corn, pepper, rice, yams, fowls, goats,
as well as cloths, mats, &c., showing, in their eager-
ness for trade, and their anxiety to make the most of
their time, their I'gbira blood. The inhabitants all
told us that they were delighted to see us once more,
as they had heard a rumour of our having had a fight
with Fulatas up the river, which we assured them
was certainly not the case. Being in need of a supply
of fuel, I thought it advisable, as our tools were nearly
CHAP. VIII.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS; 241
worn out, and the strength of the crew impaired, to
purchase wood instead of cutting, as it could be got
of excellent quahty, well dried, and at a very cheap
rate; besides which, we should save two or three
days in time. Dr. Hutchinson, therefore, went
ashore with Aliheli, well stocked with handkerchief-
pieces, romals, and also needles and zinc miiTors, and
bought capital well-seasoned wood from the people,
as fast or faster than six or eight men could carry it
forty yards to the boat, and so by night- we had a
good stock on board. Among other articles brought
off by the people was a kind of starch, resembling
cassada ; some ivory also was offered, but at very
high prices. Mr. May was successful here, as he
had been at An'yishi, in getting sights for longitude,
as well as observations for latitude. We met some
more Mitshi men here from the opposite town of
Abagwa, from whom Mr. Crowther obtained a few
more words. The people of Kondoko, or Akondoko,
who were formerly living on an island in the centre
of the river, having been driven from their abodes
by the rising of the waters, were at this time residing
a httle way beyond Rogan-Koto, where they had
erected temporary huts.
From a man in Rogan-Koto I learnt that the
proper I'gbira name for the river is Irihu, or
Ililiii, often contracted Lihu; also that I'gbira and
Igara call Hausa Abakpa, while Hausa calls I'gbira
" Koto." A woman to-day mentioned a people
living near Zaria, whom she called Gbandawa, but
242 NARRATIYE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
she could tell little more about them than that they
spoke a peculiar dialect. The journey from Rogan-
Koto to Keana occupies a day and a half, the night
being spent at a village called Tufiye.
Having now a stock of wood sufficient to carry us
to the Confluence, and all trading being finished, we
left Rogan-Koto, and reaching the high wooded
country near it, about half-past eight were off Ajama,
and passing the narrow part of the river below, where
we now found nine fathoms' water, at nine o'clock
anchored off O'jogo, and immediately landed. The
town was reduced by the rise of the water to very
narrow limits, and when we stepped out of our boat
w^e found ourselves in the middle of the huts. Mr.
May got a set of sights, after which we called on the
chief, and sent for our messengers. Mama and his
two men were all ready, but Zuri and his followers
were not to be found. I gave them, therefore, half
an hour, after which I said I should leave, whether
they were on board or not. I was glad to have Mama,
on A'ma-A'boko's account, but as for Zuri I did not
so much care, as his conduct had on several occasions
displeased me. As no trade was to be done, I went
to say " Good-bye" to old O'robo, and to thank him
for taking care of the messengers, and I dehghted his
heart by giving a green merino cloak and 10,000
cowries to defray his expenses. We now embarked,
and I found Zuri in a canoe alongside grumbhng
very much about going, and making various excuses.
He said some trading women had come from Ke^na
CHAP, vni,] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 243
with rice to sell to us, on which I told him I would
give them a small present to prevent any disappoint-
ment. Finding nothing could induce me to remain,
he said he would not go, when I replied that it was
a matter of perfect indifference to me, and as the
anchor was now at the bow, I went forward for a
few minutes. On my return aft 1 was a little
astonished at finding that Zuri had bundled all his
goods on board, and was now sitting in a sulky
mood in the ii'on-canoe alongside, the Kedna women
having returned to O'jogo. Subsequent events induced
us to believe that Zuri intended to play these poor
women false, by persuading them to follow him down
the river, when he would have endeavoured to seize
them for slaves. Zuri brought wdth him his domestic
slave O'robo, his son Musa, and a still younger son,
named Bowalla, whom he had picked up during his
cruise. Zuri was a fine-looking man, and had a
great reputation for gallantry. According to the
custom of his country he had many wives, but in-
stead of keeping them all in one harem, he followed
the example of English sailors, who are accused of
having a wife in every port ; and accordmgly he had
his spouses distributed among the various towns
which, in his peregrinations, he was Hkely to visit.
When we first reached O'jogo we were introduced
to the wife who was stationed there, a rather good-
looking young woman. Since that time, however,
they had quarrelled and separated, and Zuri having
undertaken the charge of her child, was now bringing
R 2
2M< NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
him along with himself. But another boy accom-
panied him, very different in appearance from the
others, entirely unclad, and evidently not cared for
or looked after. Suspecting him to be a slave, Mr.
Crowther examined Zuri very closely, and though
he seemed uneasy when spoken to about him, yet he
assured us that this boy was a domestic slave, whom
he was taking with him as a companion to his youngest
son, as he had belonged to his mother. He was told
that as a domestic slave we had no desire to interfere,
but that he must recollect that no English ship could
be for a moment permitted to hold a slave intended
for sale, and thus it was passed over, but our sus-
picions having been aroused we determined to watch
narrowly.
The difference in the level of the water since we
last passed along this part of the river, not only
greatly increased the facility of our navigation, but had
also completely altered the aspect of all around.
Nowhere could now be seen the httle islets on which
we used formerly to land and take our evening
observations, while we quietly steamed over the sand-
banks which had so puzzled and distressed us. On
our way we passed by a Yimaha canoe, which was
retm*ning from Abitshi, which place I believe to be,
as I have already mentioned, the most eastern to\ni
visited by canoes fi'om the lower part of the Binue.
By three o'clock we were at anchor off ATcpoko, and
immediately went on shore, landing almost at the
very gate of the town. As soon as Mr. May had got
CHAP. VIII.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 245
bis observations, we crossed the moat, which was
now full of water, by the old, primitive bridge, and
found the city-gate all decorated with bones and
other articles, as dju-djus, forcibly reminding us that
we had left Muhammadan countries, and were now
among Pagan tribes. On reaching the King's house
we were speedily met by our old acquaintance, who
gave us a very warm reception, one, too, which was
really genuine. I told him our stay would be short,
and asked him to tell his people that, if they wished
to trade, they must come off directly, and I invited
his majesty to come on board and visit us. Canoes
followed us off, with a little ivory, goats, fowls, eggs,
limes, &c., for Avhich cowries were freely taken.
About five o'clock Magaji arrived, and having looked
over the ship, was extremely pleased with all he saw.
I gave presents to him and to his attendants, on which
he offered me a goat, and a white cock, without a
a single dark feather, the latter being considered in
this place a mark of great friendship. He said this
year had been a happy one for him, as he had seen
and made friends with white men, whom he hoped,
would often, often revisit his country.
Early the next morning we had a sharp tornado,
w hich left the atmosphere very cool. We got under
steam a little after six, and in two hours were off
Dtigbo, where we anchored, and as it was Sunday had
the decks cleared, and remained quiet for the rest of
the day. When here formerly there were banks
eight or ten feet high, but now the whole country
246 NAREATIVE OP AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap. vin.
looked like an immense swamp. It had been entirely
overflown, but with the subsidence of the river part
had drained off, leaving here and there extensive pools,
from which and the surrounding moist ground there
must have been copious exhalations. The spot was
not one which we would have selected from choice, but
necessity had left us no other alternative, we required
wood and had to get it where we best could. Our
stay, would not, however, be long, and our anchorage
was not near the bank. After church service, Mr.
May and I landed, and with some difficulty fomid a
spot sufficiently firm to enable us to stand upon. The
inhabitants had all left their huts, and were now
encamped on higher ground at some miles' distance.
Much of their corn was stacked on high stages, on
which it had been placed to keep it clear of the water.
Some Agatu people came alongside during the after-
noon, from whom I got a little information, which will
be given presently.
This evening I had a conversation with Zuri, and
got from him the particulars of his visit to Keana.
He and his party reached Keana towards nightfall,
and, according to custom, fired a salute. Next morning
they waited on the King, offered him his present, and
delivered the message. They were informed that
two light-coloured travellers, with two black attendants
had been in Keana, but had left it forty-seven days
previously for Doma, and Zmi had since learnt, that,
after a residence of three days in Doma, they had
departed thence for Toto and A'bashi hi the I'gbira
CHAP, vin.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTilENTS. 2 i7
country. This part of liis narrative I am inclined fully
to believe, especially as it was corroborated by Mama,
who had no reason for trying to deceive us. That there
had been some strangers in Keana I have no doubt
whatever; besides Ziui's account, our informant at
O'jogo repeated the story again and again Avithout
any variation, and fiuther the information was
originally volunteered by him, before he ever saw
Ziu'i. Who these individuals were is a very different
question. I suspected, for various reasons, that they
could not be Drs. Barth and Vogel ; an idea since
proved to have been correct. Possibly they were
Fulatas, who, from the lightness of their complexion,
are often in Central Africa styled " white men."
About the rest of Zuii's tale I am rather sceptical ;
he said that the King of Keana was not kind to him
and his party, that he prevented them from leaving
for several days, and that finally they had to make
tlieii' exit by night. This is not at all likely, the
King had no reason for ill-treating them, they came
to him well-provided with the best travelling cre-
dentials for that country, namely presents, and they
passed to him from a fiiendly town. If any such
occurrence really took place it must have been owing
to misconduct on the part of Mr. Zuri, as he has
about liun a considerable spice of the rogue, and no
doubt united business with pleasm'e and traded on
his own account to some advantage.
Zuri told me that the country marked on the maps
as Zegzeg, is by its own inhabitants, as well as by
248 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. Tin.
I'gbira and Doma, always called Zuzu or Zozo, or
Zaria from its chief town. In other parts of Hausa
it is named Zigizigi, whence Zegzeg. Certainly the
only names I heard for it were either Zaria or Zozo,
which latter, I heard a man one day pronounce Zeze.
Dagbo at one time paid tribute to Wukari, and after-
wards, prior to its conquest by the Pulbe of Zaria, to
Bassa, from which country it had often suffered much.
Near it stood formerly an A'kpoto settlement, named
Abogbi, the Abohi of Allen and Oldfield, but some
years ago its inhabitants had again to return to the ,
south side of the river. It was situated to the east-
ward, and not to the westward of Dagbo. Dagbo is
placed at a considerable distance from the Doma
hills, and not at the base of them as represented in
the sketch in the admiralty chart.
After a close, disagreeable night, during which all
hands suffered much from the predatory attacks of
legions of bloodthirsty mosquitoes, we were well
pleased to see the first peep of morning, though it
brought with it no cool refreshing breeze. We passed
a warp ashore, hauled closer in, and sent the Kru-
boys to cut wood. The headman of Dagbo sent me
a goat, for which I had to give a return present.
Not a breath of wind all the forenoon, and at noon
tlie thermometer on board stood at 96' 5° P., in the
shade, so that I ordered the wooding party to knock
off work and come on board. About two o'clock we
weighed anchor and dropped down the river towards
Eriiko, off which place we anchored about four.
CHAP, viii.] FUETHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 249
Shortly afterwards some of us landed, and paid a
visit to Itshibiza, headman of the place, and one of
the sons of the King of Bassa. Notwithstanding their
late disasters we found the inhabitants active and
bustling, engaged in various pursuits. This is the
furthest place up the Binue where palm-oil is made,
for although the oil-palm grows abundantly for many
miles above this, it is not applied to any use. I saw
the manufacture of the fine oil prepared from the
kernel, going on, which was done by breaking the
nut with a stone, bruising the kernel, and boiling it
with water, when the oil is skimmed off the top.
This, which is of a pale yellow colour, and more
fluid than the ordinary oil obtained from the sarco-
carp, is used principally for pui'poses of cooking, and
is sent in small quantities from Eruko in various
directions. Eruko is surrounded by a double
pahsade of tall trees, leaving a space of from ten
to twelve feet betAveen the rows. The trees grow
so closely together that even a boy could hardly
squeeze himself in. Beyond the present town stand
the ruins of a former Eruko, burnt several years ago.
We examined the remains of some of the huts, which
exhibited a higher order of architecture than we
found at any other spot. The w^alls were more sub-
stantial, better put together, and often smoothly
covered outside with a kind of mortar. The plans
were more regular, windows had been formed, and
small recesses left in the walls to act as cupboards.
There had been faint attempts in some to archi-
250 NAKEATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap.vhi.
tectiiral ornament, and rude figures were still to be
traced on the walls. The huts had been coloured,
too, both outside and inside, with a faint degree of
regidarity, that is to say, not in rude daubs, but with
red, white, and a bluish-black, laid on evenly, and
equally tinted all over. Near these ruins new huts are
akeady beginning to appear, and a fresh population to
spring up. I saw large plantations of a fabaceous,
pinnate-leafed plant, but not in flower, used for
poisoning fish. After sunset I collected numerous
specimens of a handsome, showy beetle, allied to
Mylahris, they were caught chiefly on stalks of grass,
or on leaves of Dawa corn. Around Eruko is much
cultivated ground, including numerous fields of corn,
near one of which I saw the only flock of Guinea
fowl {Nwniidd) I encountered anywhere. I bought
some fine showy pipes, made, some of clay, some of
copper, with bowls deep enough for a German, said
to be manufactured at E'kpe, on the borders of
I'gbira. These are always fitted with a long wooden
stem, and in smoking them they are frequently passed
from one to another round a large circle. I observed
several women with fancy, or, as they are there consi-
dered, beauty marks, not indelible, done on theu' faces
and breasts with a blue colouring-matter. I saw several
others also, with the Kakanda and Ishabe marks on
their cheeks. Aliheli, who, when a boy, had visited
this place with Lander, upwards of twenty years
ago, was, this afternoon, recognized by two persons,
one an elderly woman, and the other a man of about
CHAP, vin.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 251
his own age, who was, doling their former acquaint-
anceship, as Ahheh expressed it to me, " too much
sauce boy," meaning that he had been an impudent
young rascal.
The Bassa people have very dark skins, and
strongly marked features, and are more typically
negro than the inhabitants of either I'gbira or Doma.
They had formerly, and even now partly retain, a
rather bad character, as being turbulent, wild, and
dangerous to travellers. During Oldfield and Lauder's
visit, an Tgbira canoe, passing to market, was seized
and plundered, and was only rescued by Lander's
prompt interference ; one of the actors in this piece of
violence, now an elderly man, was pointed out to
me. Now they seem improved, tempered perhaps
by their recent misfortunes, and their behaviour
towards us was extremely correct. Owing to the
inroads of the Eulani, many people from Bassa had
sought refuge on the south bank of the river, when
some were still residing at a place named Agowoworo.
Now, however, as the invaders had all left the
country, most of the refugees were returning. I had
some difficulty in obtaining the correct name of
Eruko. Mr. Crowther and I made a number of
persons pronounce the word, and we found it to vary
thus — Oruko, Oluko, Eruko, Eluko, such is the un-
certainty of a merely spoken language. We took
Eruko as having the majority of voices ; but the
same individual, if repeating the name several times,
would generally introduce a variation before finishing,
352 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
especially substituting, as is often done in Africa,
the liquids / and r for each other.
We got many particulars of the attack of the Pidbe
on Bassa, which, with what we had learnt before,
enabled us to form a tolerably correct idea of the
whole aflfair. It commenced by the refusal of the
people of A'fo, named also U'sha and E'kpe, living
on the borders of Bassa, to pay their usual tribute.
Adama, King of Bassa, not feeling himself sufficiently
powerful to coerce them, requested assistance from the
Fulani, and accordingly A'ma Dogo, or more correctly
Mukama Dogo, meaning " tall man," a Pulo chief of
Zozo, came with an armed band for that pm'pose.
A'fo being subdued, a quarrel arose between A'ma
Dogo and Senani, brother of the King of Bassa, and
chief of A'kpata, which led to a general attack on the
whole country. Ikereku, the capital, about fifteen miles
from Eruko, was sacked and rendered desolate, and
many of the people were slain or made captive^ and
thus the cupidity of the King led to the desolation of
his territories. Bassa people are said to have come
originally from a town near Zaria, named Gabi, hence
in remembrance of theii' origin, one of the titles
assumed by their king is Agabi. From Ikereku to
Panda the jomiiey occupies four days, and to Doma
ten days, but during the rainy season there is much
difficulty by the way, as most of the roads are under
Avater. The A'fo mentioned above is so named by
Doma and Ilausa, but by Ig'bira it is called E'kpe ;
the language spoken is chiefly I'gbira \ it is a great
CHAP, vin.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 253
manufacturing town, cliiefly for articles of hardware,
and ii'on ore is said to be plentiful in its vicinity. E'kpe
is about lialf a day's joimiey distant from Panda, and is,
strictly speaking, within the Bassa border, but almost
adjoining it, to the westward, is another town named
Agwasa, which is in I'gbira. A'bashi is a town
about a day's jomiiey to the north-west from Panda,
and hence to Toto, a rather important seat of trade,
is also a day's jom-ney to the northward and east-
ward. A'kpata is a day's jom'ney north-north-west
from old Ikereku.
Being desii'ous of communicating with the King of
Bassa, it was arranged that Mr. May should
. . , . Oct. 17.
Visit him, as he and I could not, as matters
went, both be absent from the ship for any length of
time. He intended to have started at daylight, but
was prevented by a violent tornado, which came on
dming the night, and was followed by heavy rain,
lasting until after six o'clock. About seven he landed,
accompanied by Messrs. Crowther and Richards and
Dr. Hutchinson, and had a cool pleasant walk. The
King was living in a newly-erected village, about tAvo
miles and a-half from Eruko, and which has been also
called Ikereku. Everything around him betokened
indigence, and he said his people were yet too poor to
trade with us. The party returned a Httle after ten ;
and as there was nothing fo delay us fiu'ther, steam
was got up. Mr. May brought with him the cmious
long seed-vessel of a shrubby bush,* used by the
* Belonging to the natural family Asclepiadacece,
254 NAERATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
natives for poisoning their arrows, and I got some
good specimens of the grain named Dawiira.
Early in the afternoon we were off A'batsho, where
I had resolved to remain mi til the following day.
We landed, and as soon as Mr. May had got a set of
sights, set off on a voyage of discovery. Close to the
shore there are a few dwellings, chiefly for fishing
purposes, which compose, I rather think, the original
A'batsho, but now the principal town is placed about
a mile inland, having been founded about six months
prior to our visit, by refugees from Panda. Thither
we bent our steps, walking over a fine tract of country,
which bore little evidence that it had been but re-
cently brought under cultivation ; a good footpath had
been made, trees had been cleared away, or burnt to
arrest farther progress, and fine maize and magnificent
Guinea corn were growing all around us. And when
we arrived at the village all had a settled look, nothing
seemed hasty or temporary. We found Mohama, the
chief, suffering much from lumbago, but he arose and
welcomed us warmly, telling us how happy he was
once more to meet us, as he also had heard the report
of a quarrel and a fight between us and some tribe up
the river during which several lives were said to
have been lost. He entertained us with beer and
Kola nuts, and on our departure gave us some fine
yams and a goat. I gave him some cloths, a looking-
glass, and a knife, and as he seemed to be suffering
much, I promised to send him some medicine. We
found the industrious inhabitants all hard at work,
CHAP. VIII.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 255
some picking cotton, some weaving, some spinning,
others preparing for to-morrow's market. In the
market we observed small balls of camwood, cotton,
mats, impure lime prepared from burnt shells, yams,
pepper, soap, &c. I bought a pot of honey, not the
vegetable syrup which is so named near Hamartiwa,
but the genuine produce of the bee. Near A'batsho
two or three Shea-butter trees were growing, but I
could not learn that they were abundant. On re-
turning to the ship we found alongside canoes with
goats, fowls, yams, mats, and firewood, all of which
met with a ready purchase. Since we had been able
to obtain vegetables, but especially yams, the improve-
ment in the health of the crew was very marked. No
fresh cases of scurvy now presented themselves, and
those on the sick list were rapidly convalescing, a
clear proof, if it was required, of the nature of their
complaint.
As I before mentioned, a watchful eye was kept
over Ziiri and the poor little boy. At length Mama
confessed to Aliheli that he really was for sale, on
which Zuri was taxed with telling a falsehood, which
he admitted he had done. I told him, as formerly,
that no slave could live on board om' ship, and that
I looked upon the boy as practically free ; but as I
considered that he might have erred in ignorance, I
should ransom the boy, paying him the market value
at the Confluence, which I ascertained to be nearly
50,000 coAvries, equal in real value to from three to
four pounds sterhng. I therefore from that moment
256 NARK ATI VE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap.viii.
took entire charge of the boy, whose history was
related to us as follows : — He was a Mitshi by birth,
his father having been a native of that country, and
his mother being a Djuku. His father was dead,
and during some domestic quarrel he had been seized
from a town named Tombo, nearly opposite to O'jogo,
by some of his mother's relatives, and sold as a
slave. He was a fine healthy boy, about eight or
nine years of age, and remarkably intelligent and
quick. His skin was of a copper colour, and not nearly
so dark as those of most of his countrymen whom
we had seen. He very soon learnt to consider us as
his protectors, and became much attached, especially
to Mr. Crowther and me, and to my assistant.
We were early under steam, and in a couple of
hours were at anchor off Amaran, an I'gbira town,
also peopled principally by Panda refugees, but which
we had not visited during our ascent. It was
market-day, and hundreds of cm^ious spectators
thronged around the landing-place, anxious to get a
peep at the " Pleiad " and her crew. Mr. Crowther,
Mr. May, and Dr. Hutchinson who all landed, de-
scribed the scene as remarkably busy and animating.
Here we obtained the cheering news that our fellow-
voyagers in the canoe at Igb^gbe were all alive and
well. The king, named A'ba, came on board, and
to him and to his headman I gave suitable presents,
receiving from them a fine goat. Our purchases
here, with the exception of some native manufactures,
consisted principally of firewood. An hour's steaming
CHAP. VIII.] FUETHEE DISAPPOINTMENTS. 257
brought us to Oketta, on the right bank, which pre-
sented a very ruinous appearance. The water
allowed us to come very close to the bank, so much
so, that at first the inhabitants seemed alarmed, but
they soon recovered their confidence. Here, for the
first time, Mr. May got a sun's meridian altitude,
the height previously having been too great to be
measured by the sextant in the mercurial trough.
A short visit was paid to Aikuta, the chief, with
whom was residing one of the sisters of Oyigu, late
King of Panda. Our next visit was a fiying one to
our old friends at Kende, with all of whom we shook
hands, after which we again proceeded, and, aided by
the strong current, anchored, a little before three, at
Yimaha.
We landed, and presently w^ent to visit Ogara or
Mohama, now, by the death of Oyigu, King of I'gbira,
and, on account of the destruction of Panda, resident
in this place. He is elder brother of Mohama E'te,
the present King of A'batsho, both being sons of
Opanaki, who was one of the sons of Malegedu, the
first king of Panda. He was formerly, on account of
some quarrel, obliged to leave I'gbira, and, after some
wandering, finally settled in Rogan-Koto. By reli-
gion he is a Muhammadan, and he speaks I'gbira
and Hausa fluently : in appearance and manner he
much resembles his brother, but his travelling has
much improved his mind, and we found him highly
intelligent, shrewd, and well informed. He told us
that the country was still in a very poor state, owing
258 NAERATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap.vtii.
to the recent aggression, and that his people hardly
knew yet what to do. As long as the rainy season
lasted, and there was plenty of water, bush, and
long grass in the way, they were safe ; but as soon
as the dry season set in, they would be liable to
fresh violence. Most of the Fulani had left Panda,
but were still in the neighboiu'hood of Toto. They
laid the whole blame on the Bassa people; and
alleged, and I believe with truth, that after the
destruction of Ikereku, its inhabitants, jealous of
Panda, directed the attention of A'ma Dogo to that
quarter ; and a pretext being speedily found, its sack
and ruin followed. One old chief, named Madaki,
who was present, showed me the scars of several
extensive flesh wounds which he had received during
the assault. The King appeared much gratified with
our visit, and gave us, on our leaving him, some jars
of beer, and a goat. We then walked through
Yimaha, which now presented a very different scene
from what it did when we passed up the river. Then
it was silent and still as the grave ; the huts were
empty ; the market-place deserted : but now a change
had come o'er the spirit of their dream. All was
activity, bustle, and animation, presenting a scene
such as could not be equalled in any part of Africa
but in I'gbii'a. Though the day was well advanced,
business still went merrily on ; idlers were few, and
everybody and everything wore an aspect of import-
ance ; the traders still lingered at the place of sale,
and the artisans still pHed at their respective trades.
CHAP, viii.l FURTHEE DISAPPOmTMENTS. 259
In the market I noted, among other commodities,
salt, beer, palm oil of both kinds, shea-butter, corn,
yams, dried yams for making fufu, dried fish, the
powdered leaves of the Baobab tree used for colouring
various dishes, different seeds, mats, bags, cotton-
grass and mixed cloths, the bulb of an orchidaceous
plant used as food, impure lime, cam-wood, &c.
Many extensive dye-works and weaving establish-
ments were around ; and we discovered a blacksmith
hard at work at his forge, and handling with no little
dexterity his rude tools. His blast was caused by a
primitive pair of bellows, consisting of a couple of
goat-skin bags attached to one end of an u'on nozzle
close to the fire. Seizing hold of these, one in each
hand, he alternately compressed and expanded them,
and filling the one while the other was being
emptied, kept up a continuous current. Air was
admitted to them by a small hole pierced in each,
and when filled, this was closed by a slight movement
of one of his fingers. Mr. Guthrie was so pleased
with this man's ingenuity, that he gave him a
hammer and some other articles likely to be of use to
him. Mr. Crowther and I went with Alih^li to visit
an old lady, a distant connection of his, but she —
as soon as we were introduced — smiling, said she
was rather in deshabille, and producing a little bit of
looking-glass and her galena-case, proceeded to stain
her eyelids, and to arrange her head-diTss.
Yimaha was so named by Ahoko Zinekii, its founder
and first chief, from the tents having been originally
260 NARPtATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
much scattered, its derivation being from the I'gbira
" aimaha," to scatter, or scattered, equivalent to the
Hausa word " bereketi." The Hausa pronunciation
of the word is Yimasha. Almost adjoining Yimaha, to
the eastward, are two villages, which we did not visit,
named Bogulogo and Ohcrehu, the chiefs behig
respectively Ahoko and Ohurihini.
Among various scraps of information picked up
here concerning I'gbira, is the following. The founder
and first King of Panda was named Malegedu, he was
a native of Koto'n Karifi, and before he commenced
building Panda, resided for some time at Toto. He
lived in the early part of this century, and since his
death eight kings have occupied his throne — a list of
their names, &c., will be given in the appendix.
Koto'n Karifi, or as it is often called Kuttum Karafe,
obtained its title from the rocks on which it stands
being impregnated with ii'on. This is its Hausa
designation, Koto meaning I'gbira, and Karifi being
iron ; the natives call it Egu, and their language is
I'gbira. It formerly was tributary first to Idda and
then to Panda, but at present is semi-independent.
An exceedingly hot, close afternoon, was succeeded
by heavy rain all niorht, which brouo;ht the
Oct. 19. -^ / ° 111
atmosphere to a more pleasant standard, and
at daybreak we saw the mountain range to the south-
ward enveloped in a thick morning mist, through which
only the taUer of the mountains showed their heads.
This was soon dispelled by the rising sun, and as soon
as the landscape was clear, Mr. May took outline views
CHAP. VIII.] rUPiTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 261
of Mount Vidal, and the other more remarkable peaks.
Zuri, who had been ashore all night, brought off the
mtelligence,that on4he previous evening a council, com-
prising all the head men, had been held by the King,
to consider a proposal made to them by the Fiilani,
namely, to pay an annual tribute of one hundred slaves.
It was thought, however, that though one hundi-ed
were now asked, another season two hundred might
be demanded, and if these were not forthcoming there
would be a fresh pretext for assault. As long as the
roads were wet and unpassable, they were safe, and
they resolved, if again molested, to retire to the south
side of the river and settle there. In the meantime,
the Fulatas were allowing them to ransom their
captives. Mr. Crowther and I Avent ashore early and
paid a private visit to the King, who, throwing aside
all his state etiquette, had a long conversation with us.
We told him of the wish of many I'gbu'a people, now
residing in Sierra Leone, to return to their native
country, which Ogara said he trusted Avould speedily
be the case. He hoped also to see us again ere long,
when possibly his people would be in a more prosper-
ous condition, and better able to trade with us. On
Mr. Crowther's asking him if he would object to
teachers coming to his country, he replied, quite the
contrary, he only wished they were now with him.
He then spoke of the deplorable condition of his sub-
jects, and mentioned that although they had managed
to ransom most of the head men, yet numbers of
women and childi-en still remained captives. We
263 NARKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. vm.
expressed our deep sympathy with their misfortunes,
telling him also how our country disliked war, more
especially when of this unprovoked and predatory
nature, and how much we held in abhorrence driving
captives into slavery. But as something more sub-
stantial than mere words, I said that as soon as I got
on board I would send him four bags of cowries
(80,000), to be applied by him in the redemption of
his people as he considered most advisable, on which
all present seemed much moved, and thanked us
heartily. We then alluded to the offer from the
Fulani, which the King said he should reject ; I was
much pleased to hear this, as, had it been accepted,
a fresh slave mart must have been established. I
therefore applauded his intention, saying, it was pre-
ferable to remain as independent as possible, and
should, which we trusted would not happen, another
attack be made on them, it would be better for them
to secure a safe retreat on the A'kpoto shore, where
they might in comparative safety and quiet pursue
their industrial occupations. On taking our leave I
gave him a velvet tobe, which pleased him greatly, as
he told us that all the royal robes and dresses were
in the hands of the Pulbe. Desii'ous of getting a
good supply of the fruit of the Baobab tree, which
was here plentiful and large, I offered a few cowries
for any good ones brought on board ; in half an hour
we were nearly inundated, but I was able to make a
very excellent selection, and to pm'chase forty or fifty
good specimens for the value of about a shilhng.
CH<jp. VIII.] FURTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS. 263
There was very little ivory at Yimalia, but in other
respects a brisk trade was carried on dming our stay.
Yimaha is a very busy place, and its inhabitants being
of an active disposition and quiet demeanoiu*, it may,
if left undisturbed by the Fulatas, again become a
floiuishing town. Its situation is good, and as the
people are orderly and extremely well disposed towards
us, it must, if oiu* intercourse ever becomes established,
be an important station.
We remained until noon, that Mr. May might
obtain a meridian altitude of the sun, after which,
getting under steam, we resumed our passage. We
anchored for a short time off O'gba, prettily situated
along the verge of a steep cliff, rising some 80 or
100 feet above the river. Several of us landed, and
scrambling up by a rather precipitous footpath, in
a few minutes found ourselves in the heart of the
village. It commands a fine prospect, extending to
many miles along the river, and also over a fine
extent of level ground, stretching far away towards
the mountains in the north. The chief, named
Kpanaki, was absent, his usual residence being at
Okpangana, on the other side of the river, but we
were introduced to his deputy, who was his sister,
and who acted, as Aliheli briefly explained to us, as
"big-man" of the village, meaning thereby the prin-
cipal official. There being no inducement to remain,
we quickly descended, jumping from block to block
of igneous rock, until we reached the bottom. A
couple of canoes, bringing a few fowls and goats,
2G4i NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. viii.
accompanied us, and presently two others came
alongside, one of which had been sent from Okpaugana
to follow us, and to express the chief's regret at not
being able to call on us, as he had just lost one of his
wives. I sent him by his brother, who was his mes-
senger, a small present, with the expression of our
condolence at his loss. From the other canoe, which
was retm^ning from market, a tooth of twenty pounds
weight was bought. We again got under steam,
passing in rapid succession many small villages,
among which were A'tipo, Ohimokogi, and finally
Gande, a little place inhabited by Igara people. It
being almost dark, and the navigation ratlier intricate,
we anchored for the night near the Duck Islands.
Dr. Hutchinson and Mr. Taylor went in the gig to
visit then' friends in the canoe, and on their return
reported that Mr. Crawford and Mr. Gower were
both sick, and that little trade had been done, as it
seemed to have been interfered with by the King's
order.
CHAPTER IX.
THE CONFLUENCE.
Since we had last been liere there was a great
change in the appearance of all around. Sacrifice
Rock, on which we used to land for observations, and
which was then high above the water, was now com-
pletely hidden, nothing being left to indicate its
locality but the top of a tall bush, which had ma-
naged to withstand the fury of the flood. The Duck
Islands were reduced to very narrow limits, and the
confluence of the two rivers seemed to be greatly
expanded and enlarged. After dayhght we got up
steam, and soon were off" le-beojbe, where we
' & o ' ^ Qg^._ 20.
anchored not far from the landing-place.
Mr. Crawford, on being brought on board, looked
very white and thin, but this did not proceed from
endemic fever, which again had considerably affected
Mr. Gower. The canoe was moored in a very ill
chosen locality near the shore, sheltered by tall trees
from the refi'eshing breeze, and, now that the water
was falling, close to moist mud. They said they were
afraid to anchor further out, why I could not make
266 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. ix.
out, as thirty yards would have made all the difference
between a healthy and an unhealthy spot. A warp
was passed to the canoe, and she was hauled along-
side, and the proceeds of six weeks' trading were taken
on board, which only amounted to 278 lbs. of ivory,
192 lbs. of shea-butter, 192 lbs. of tobacco, and
some red pepper — a most wretched result ; but Mr.
Crawford had been so tied down by the orders he
received about prices, that he could not give even a
fair market value. I discharged and paid the men
who had accompanied us up the Binue, giving them
an amount which completely satisfied them. This I
did as they had been with us seven weeks, had
behaved well, and been often very useful, besides
their journey to Keana. Zuri, certainly, had occa-
sionally been troublesome, and I could not approve
of many of his proceedings ; still, through him I had
got much information about names, places, and man-
ners. Moreover, I considered that in rewarding them
well 1 was only paying a slight compliment to A'ma
A'boko, who had been so friendly to us. 1 offered
also to settle with Ziiii for the boy, but he had not
a bag to contain the additional cowries. AVlien the
canoe parted from us at O'jogo we had given direc-
tions that the Krumen shoidd employ their spare
time in cutting wood for our use. This had been
done, but one large pile, which had been stacked
too near the river edge, had been swept away ;
several boat-loads, however, still remained, which
we commenced shipping at once, as the place where
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 267
it was stored was nearly a mile distant from us, ou ,
the opposite side of the river.
On lauding, I made some iuquiiies about the
person alleged to have been stopping trade, and
found that it was the Galadima, whose name was
Dagaua, and who, having been charged by the King
with the safety of the party, had been consequently
very frequently about them, and they probably, from
not knowing better, fancied he was interfering with
them. I learnt also, however, that in consequence of
the grumbling which was caused by the very low
prices offered, the King had advised his people to
cease trading until the return of the ship. We then
went to visit A'ma A'boko, and to thank him for his
kindness to our people dming our absence. We
fancied that the King received us rather coldly, and
soon found that om* friend Zuri had been before us,
and had been telling him various untruths to try
and prejudice him against us. He had very much
understated the payment he had received, had told
that Kings up the Binue had got far more valuable
presents than those offered to A'ma A'boko, and in
particular he had dwelt on the cowries given to the
King of I'gbii'a. The King mentioned all these
points, asking if we had forgotten him altogether, if
any other chief had taken as much trouble concerning
us, or had equally cared for our men when we were
far away. I said that Zuri had quite deceived him
about his remuneration, which was more than treble
what he had admitted, and in proof of this I had
268 NARRATirE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
Mama called, and examined before all. I pointed
out Ziiri's wish for mischief in his garbled stories
about presents, and finally, as to the cowries at
Yimaha, I told the King that he ought to be thank-
ful that he had no relatives who required to be
redeemed from slavery. With this explanation he
was perfectly satisfied, and we immediately got upon
our old terms. We then spoke of the Model Farm
territory, and I said that though we had left it unoc-
cupied, yet it was om-s by purchase, and that we
intended going over to look at it before we left. The
King laughed and said that, properly speaking, it
was his, as he had never been consulted about it, nor
had he received any of the purchase-money, thus in-
dicating a feeling of independence of Idda. We then
took our leave, and walked through the town, where
we found everyone extremely civil. We visited
several of the numerous dye-works, and in one
weaving establishment we found that some of our
Tm'key reds had been taken to pieces, and the
threads, neatly knotted, were now being interwoven
with some of their own white and blue. We heard
that, owing to continued disturbances at Idda, all of
A'boko's party had left, and had formed a new
settlement for themselves ; that the Okiri market
had been discontinued, and now that two markets
were held instead, one at Igbegbe, and the
other at A'boko's new town. That at Igbegbe took
place every five days, and, as the next day was one,
I resolved to remain for two of them, and accord-
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 269
iiigly intimated this to the trading gentlemen. This
delay would also allow Mr. May again to rate the
chronometers. Before going on board we measm-ed
the apparent fall of the river, which, to this time,
amounted to twenty-four inches. A few scrivelloes
were brought on board, and also a fine tooth of
eighty-seven pounds, which latter was purchased for
37,000 cowries and some red cloth.
I must here make a digression, for the purpose of
giving a short account of the people living near the
Confluence, and who are to be met with at
I'gbegbe. Niipe, the Niife and NyflPe of previous
writers, is a country of ancient date, situated to the
eastward of the Kwora, and bounded on the south
by I'gbira. Its inhabitants, now partly Moslemin,
and partly Pagans, are a very ingenious and trading
race. Among their articles of manufacture are
cloths, brass ornaments, and necklaces made of
pebbles, which they cut and polish for the piu*pose.
Their language is peculiar, and, as their traders travel
over a wide extent, it may be heard spoken in many
places. Fully one half of the population employs no
national mark, and that used by the remainder con-
sists of a short cut, proceeding from near the inner
angle of the eye, in a slightly curved, diagonal direc-
tion, about two -thirds across the cheek. Nupe, its
people, and its language, are in Hausa known as
Takpa (Tappa). This country has, unfortunately,
been for many years in a very disturbed state, the
cause of which I will now endeavom- shortly to relate.
270 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLOITING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
A good many years ago, two persons contested for the
throne, namely Mamagia (often Mangia and Magia),
and Ederisa. The former referred his case to the
Fulani, who, as umph'es, divided the kingdom
between the claimants, but making both pay
tribute to a third person called Asumo, and hence
named Asumo-Saraki. This person, a Pulo by
descent, if not by birth, was son of Mallam Den'do
(often also called Mallam Musa), by a Hausa woman,
and was a grandson of the Sultan Bello. Before he
was thus placed over the country, he had quarrelled
with, and tried to kill, his half-brother, Dasaba, who,
however, escaped from him, first across the Kwora, and
finally to Lade. Ederisa's head-quarters were about
E'gga, while Asumo-Saraki and Mamagia resided at
Rabba. On the death of Mamagia, Asumo-Saraki
seems to have assumed the entire rule of Nupe, espe-
cially as Ederisa left no heir. All the feelings of
Astimo-Saraki being Pulo, the Nupe people supported
Dasaba, who, as his mother was a Nupe, might be
looked on more as one of themselves. Thus assisted,
about 1845 or 1846, he attacked his brother, defeated
him, and destroyed Rabba, after which Asumo-Saraki
took refuge in the Hausa country. Rabba though
sacked and burnt, soon began to recover and to be
repopulated, but was no longer the seat of govern-
ment, as Dasaba fixed himself at Lade. Dasaba, who
is also called Maham^saba, or, by contraction,
Masaba, is of a cruel and tyrannical disposition, and
was dreaded alike by his subjects and his neighbours.
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 271
In the early part of 1854, his people rose against
him en masse, drove him into exile, and selected in
his stead Baziba, son of Mamagia. Dasaba fled to
the Yoruba country, and was received and sheltered
by the Muhammadans of Ilorin (the Alyorie of some
maps). Of this we had been told in August dming
our ascent ; but since that time another change had
taken place, and Dasaba, assisted by Moslemin
from Ibadan and Ilorin, had effected a bloodless
revolution, having, by dint of promises of better
behaviour for the future, induced his subjects again
to receive him. Not feeling, however, very secure at
Lade, he was desirous of forming a settlement on the
Model Farm territory, and had made such a proposal
to A'ma A'boko, who, on his part, was partly inclined
to favour the design, thinking that such a powerful
chief as his friend might prove useful. It was on
this account, therefore, that Mr. Crowther and I
spoke to the King about our claims to the ground.
Just above the Confluence, along the right bank of
the Kwora, live a people who have been long known
as Kakanda. But this is not their native name, and
I have been unable to ascertain exactly by what
other race it was originally applied. I believe that
the term Kakanda embraces three distinct tribes,
named respectively Bassa, Ishabe, and Bonu, difiering
from each other in language and in national marks.
In Sierra Leone people from all these three places
unite and live togther. Not having visited their
countries, I cannot speak positively, but from what I
272 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
have been able to gather, I think Bassa and Ishabe
are chiefly known as Kakanda, and in Igbira and
Igara, this name is applied mostly to the latter.
Bassa is, I believe, nearest to the Confluence, and the
mark of the people is two or three broad, unsightly-
looking, curved lines, extending from the temple along
the cheek nearly to the chin. Their name for the
Kwora is " E'du or E'du," and for the Confluence or
for the Binue E'tshi. Their chief towns are Elmafa,
half a day's journey from the river, and Tsheberi,
four hours further on. I fancy that Bonu is next,
which is possibly the " Puna " of Clarke's Vocabulary.*
Its dialect I was told by a Bonu man more resembles
Ishabe than Bassa, but yet they can contrive to under-
stand each other. Their mark is also two or three
broad lines like the Bassa, but crossed by some
shorter and finer ones. Their principal town is Owl,
and another is named Donyi, which is beyond Ogti.
As to Ishabe, the distinctive mark is composed of
four lines along each side of the face, and the chief
town is Igbido, the Kakanda of some charts, and the
Budu t of Captain Trotter's reports, and I believe that
Muye, near the river, is another. Two or three miles
behind Igbegbe are two villages, named Patta and
Tshewii, inhabited by refugees belonging to these
tribes, who had fled thither to escape from the
marauding visits of Dasaba.
On the morning following our arrival trade began
* Page 86.
+ The Buddu of McWilliam in Allen and Thomson's Narrative, vol. ii.
p. 80.
CHAP. IS] THE CONFLUENCE. 273
early, and promised to be brisk. Among other
visitors was Ziiri, wlio made an attempt to carry off
tlie little Mitslii boy. I spoke very sliarply to him,
telling him, now that the boy was free, if he dared
to lay a finger on him, I wonld have him thrown
overboard. I then ordered him out of the ship,
saying I would follow and see the King on the
subject. Accordingly, accompanied by Mr. May and
Mr. Crowther, I landed and went straightway to
A'ma-A'boko, and having had Zui'i sent for, I com-
menced by recapitulating everything connected with
the boy, how Zmi had brought him on board with-
out leave ; how, when cjuestioned, he had told a false-
hood, and had afterwards confessed to a different
story ; how he had assented to his ransom, and
expressed himself perfectly satisfied ; and lastly we
reminded the King of Zuri's behaviour the day
before, and of the stories he had then told. Mama,
the King's own man, was then examined in corrobora-
tion of my statements, and Zuri, on being asked if all
were true, replied "Yes;" but added that he had
bought the boy for A'ma-A'boko, on which I said,
that in that case I should pay him nothing, but
should give the amount to the King. A'ma-A'boko,
however, declared that he had no concern in the
matter, and had nothing to do with Zuri's getting
the boy. I then told the King and those about him
the views of England concerning slaves and the slave-
trade, and taking Zmi as an example, pictured him
living at home in ease and comfort, until another
274 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [cnAP.ix.
stronger and more powerful than he came, and,
carrymg him off, sold him into captivity, far away
from home, wives, and children, where he had to
labour at the will of, perhaps, a harsh master, and
content himself with the simplest fare grudgingly
bestowed. I concluded by saying that in this case,
I was willing to assume that the man had erred in
ignorance, and should therefore, whenever properly
called upon, pay a fair market-price for the boy, but
that we objected to, and totally repudiated slavery,
because our God told us it was wicked, and moreover
had commanded us to do unto others as we would they
should do towards us. The King and those around
assented to all I had said, remarking that it was
" very good," and the King expressed himself per-
fectly satisfied, and convinced of Ziiri's bad behaviour.
We then took our departure, and called on the Gala-
dima, who informed us that our ransoming the boy
had given general satisfaction throughout Igbegbe.
Being market-day, we walked through the market,
where we heard among other tongues I'gbira, Igara,
Nupe, Hausa, Yoruba, Ishabe, Bonu, &c. ; and among
articles for sale, we noted palm oil, palm-nut oil,
shea-butter, cotton, cloths, mats, bags, calabashes,
pepper, cam- wood, magnificent yams, tomatos, pa-
paws, plantains, bananas, corn, beer. We also visited
a blacksmith's shop, and inspected a brewery of rather
a simple description. The decks of the " Pleiad "
were covered with traders and their gear, and active
trade went on, the women proving the keenest
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 275
hands. Ivory was not very abundant this day. I
paid to Mama 51,000 cowries for the little boy, and
I asked him on going on shore to make it be generally
known that the following day being Sunday was
with us a day of rest, or, as they better understood
it, our " God's day," and that we should not trade.
Some canoes alongside were upset, and one poor
woman lost all her effects, so that I had to give her
a small present to make it up.
The decrease of the water was now very percep-
tible, and we could daily observe a difference
01 several mches. 1 gave the Mitshi boy the
name of William Carlin, and determined to take him
with me to Sierra Leone, that he might be there
educated and looked after, hoping that, if spared, he
might one day prove a blessing to his own people,
and his own land. Dr. Hutchinson during the day
purchased a good deal of ivory, amounting to 467
lbs,, all of good quality, and including one tooth of
107 lbs. I bought some specimens of a raw silky-
looking material, round some cocoons, which was
highly prized, and said to have been brought from
the Hausa country. Our sick men having now
abundance of appropriate food, were improving
rapidly.
Mr. May left at daylight in the gig, and landing
near Mount Stirling, ascended Mount Patte, from
the top of which he described the view as being
most magnificent. He brought me with him a nice
assortment of plants, which he had gathered during
T 2
276 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING YOYAGE. [chap. ix.
his walk, and wliicli proved very interesting. Much
palm-nut oil was brought on board, and was offered
at a very reasonable rate, less than the common oil,
but none was bought, except about a puncheon pur-
chased by the steward. A most unaccountable apathy
prevailed in the trading department, and except by
Dr. Hutchinson, no steps were ever taken about
commerce. Mr. Guthrie requiring oil for his engines,
had to go a-shore and buy it for himself, and he got
an ample supply in about half-an-hour. We were
close to a capital market, abundant opportunity was
offered, but instead of being improved, nothing was
heard but expressions of alarm all the time the ship
was allowed to remain. Yams of fine quality were
very cheap ; but instead of laying in here a sea-stock,
this was delayed till our arrival at Abo, when four
times the price was paid for an inferior article. I
weighed several of the largest, which I found to
vary from twenty to twenty-eight pounds. The
yams differ much in shape and appearance at different
places. At Igbegbe they were very irregular and
bulky, being generally short in proportion to their
thickness. I tried to bring some of the largest home,
but failed. I received numerous presents from the
natives of various kinds, most of which required some
sort of acknowledgment. I pm'chased some speci-
mens of an agricultural implement, made in the shape
of a spade, but used as a hoe. They are about ten
inches square, and are rather concave superiorly. A
short wooden handle is fitted to these, forming an
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 277
angle of about 50° with the upper surface. These
are made at E'kpe and at Toto, and are much in
use throughout I'gbira and the adjacent parts of
Doma.
On the morning of our last day Mr. May and I
landed to measui'e a ario:antic Baobab-tree,
Oct. 25.
which we had seen a little way beyond the
town. At eighteen inches above the ground its
circumference was eighty feet; but here the trunk
divided into several portions. Most curiously another
and a very distinct tree had got intimately mixed up
with it, the trunk of which had sprung up among
some large branches, and was for some feet above
the ground so closely enveloped, that it was almost
impossible to distinguish it. Other parts of the
Baobab trunk and branches were covered with epi-
phytes and climbers, the latter being principally
FahacccB. I have observed that lichens are very
rarely seen on the trunks oiAdansonice. Preparations
were now made for departure. Our final observa-
tions were taken ; the fall of water during our stay
was ascertained to be nearly six feet, and the name
of the steamer and the date were conspicuously
painted by Mr. Guthrie on a large block of rock.
With Mr. Crowther and Mr. May I went to say
farewell to A'ma-A'boko, and to thank him for his
invariable kindness towards us. We again intro-
duced the subject of the model farm, telling the King
that Mr. May had been to see it, but that we felt
assured he would look after it, and not allow it to
278 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
be occupied until oiu- return ; to wliicli lie replied
" Certainly," nothing but sickness or death would
prevent his doing so. Mr. Crowther then questioned
him as to his desire to have teachers placed in his
town, and to his willingness to receive and protect
any I'gbira people who might be desii'ous of return-
ing to their native country. With this he was much
pleased, saying if they came they should all have
his warm support, adding, that his people were a
trading people, and averse to war. Before taking
leave I gave him several presents ; amongst others,
some bundles of green, red, and yellow cotton thread,
which I left with him, hoping that some of his
weavers might find use for it in their looms, and so
possibly a market might be opened for this stuff for
the next vessel. Dagdna, the Galadima, who is a
Nupe by birth, is a fine specimen of his country,
active, frank, and hospitable ; he never met any of
us on shore, without insisting on our going to his
house, where whatever he thought we might like
was produced. He was of the greatest service to us,
as he spent much of his time on board, keeping
order among the visitors, and fm^thering the ends of
trade. Among the Muhammadans are a few Mal-
lams, who know a little Arabic, and from them I
purchased several MSS., which however consisted
chiefly of extracts from the Kuran. During one of
my wanderings I came upon a school, kept by an
old Mallam, where children were being taught to
repeat passages from the Kuran. We got into con-
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 279
versation, during the course of which Stamboul
happened to be mentioned, on which I said that our
Sovereign and the Sultan of Stamboul w^ere friends,
and that at that very moment she was assisting him
to defend his country against a powerfid oppressor.
Immediately on hearing this, all about me got up
and shook me by the hand ; then calling their friends
they told them the news, on which they also sur-
rounded me, and insisted on going through the same
ceremony. Among the superstitions of the heathen
part of the population is the following, similar to one
practised in Yoruba : — If there be two entrances to
a hut, or two passages to any part of a dwelling, one
is kept closed up by a string being put across it,
and some dju-dju article hung up over it, and this
obstruction is generally allowed to last for about a
month, when it is changed to the other opening.
Yorubans cOme to Igbegbe from Ilorin, by way of
E'gga or Lade ; one whom we met was highly intel-
ligent, and was our chief informant about Dasaba.
One of our sailors was the bearer of a symbolical
letter from this place to the I'gbira in Sierra Leone ;
it was similar in construction and translation to that
mentioned in Miss Tucker's " Abbeokuta,"* and con-
sisted of a red parrot's feather attached to one end
of a piece of thread, while to the other was fastened
a bit of hard wood, burnt at one extremity ; and in
the middle were secm'ed fom* cowries, two and two,
with their faces towards each other, one paii- having
* Page 262.
280 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
the small end uppermost, and the other pair with
the large romided end upward. Mr. Crowther thinks
the interpretation may be as follows : — The red
feather may indicate prosperity on the part of the
senders, and that the return of their friends is
speedily expected ; the hard wood may mean that
•they were well and strong, and the blackened end
that they were mourning for the loss or absence of
their countrymen ; and the cowries may denote both
wealth and well-wishes, those with the small ends
up being suggestive of a desire to see then*, friends
face to face, while those inverted may allude to
the disordered state of the coimtry.
At two o'clock the whistle sounded shrilly to warn
• persons out of the ship, and in ten minutes' time we
were under steam. Just at starting a curious thing
happened : the two swivels in the bows Avere loaded
and primed, and the second mate had gone for a
match while I remained standing beside them. Sud-
denly one, which had been exposed to the sun, went
off in a rather unaccountable manner, for though the
sun's rays playing on the polished surface, had greatly
heated the swivel, still it could hardly be to the extent
of igniting gunpowder. I therefore suspect that
some object near, but which escaped attention, must
have acted as a lens, and that the concentrated rays
had been accidentally directed for a moment towards
the priming. A fresh head breeze blew cool and
pleasant, and steaming in mid-channel, we soon lost
sight of Igbegbe, and left behind us that interesting and
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 281
pleasant spot. If tlie commencement then made be
pm-sued, Igbegbe must be one of the principal trading
depots, and from its excellent situation, and the active
habits of the people, mast eventually become a place
of much importance. We soon reached Mounts Crozier
and Franklin, and the granitic Beaufort Island, and
steaming past the site of the Okiri market, and the
Bird-rock, the latter deeply immersed, by sunset had
arrived nearly at Agbedamma ; we continued, however,
until after dark, when hearing voices ashore, we
anchored in five fathoms water.
In the morning Mr. May went to measure the
river, while Dr. Hutchinson landed at Agbedamma,
and after a short time returned, bringing with him
Ehimodina, one of our Idda friends. He is a fine-
looking old man, with a commandhig appearance, and
is almost reverenced by the whole of A'boko's party.
On his coming on board all the natives knelt before
liim, and he was saluted in a similar manner even by
his nephew, Okeyin or Okeyin-A'boko, whom we had
formerly met at English Island, and who had now
come from their new settlement Ututuru, on the right
bank, just opposite our anchorage. I asked him and
his uncle to come below to breakfast, when Okeyhi
made a hearty meal, but Ehimodina, who is a Muliam-
madan, could not eat before any of his followers, but
taking a fancy to some bread, asked for a piece of it,
which he carried home with him. They told us that
the quarrel with Agabidoko was yet unsettled, and
consequently all their party had left Idda and were
282 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
settling in this neigliboiirhood. Thus the Atta was
deprived of his best and most influential subjects,
who, always keeping together, will probably before
long form a neAV and independent state. The great
secret of the spread of power of A'boko's party is that
all of its members are on friendly terms, and on public
matters think as one man, keeping clear of petty strifes
and private quarrels. Among them are no keen factions
or political rivals ; the different brothers, who are the
leaders, are all on the most fraternal relations with
each other, and the common weal seems to be the
object nearest their hearts. They are a commercial
rather than a warlike race, though, when requisite,
they show that they are both able and willing to
defend themselves. Doubtless, they contain the genu
of a future powerful race, they deserve to be indepen-
dent, and will, I trust, use their power for the pro-
motion of their country's good. Ehimodina is the
patriarch of the whole party, and Okeyin the chief
of this particular division. A good deal of ivory
was brought on board by these people, which was
readily sold, and Dr. Hutchinson had by noon bought
555 lbs. Just abreast of where we were, Okeyin
pointed out to us, to the westward, a few miles from
the river, a valley, which led into the country of
rgbira-Shima. He and Ehimodina described the
inhabitants as being rather a wild set and not tribu-
tary to Igara. A little below Agbedamma, on the
same side, stands a town named OTco-Odogbo.
All trade being over, at two o'clock we fired a gun.
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 283
and weighed anchor, and just before four reached
Idda, where we got close enough to the landing-place
to pass a warp ashore. Mr. May and I landed and
got a set of sights, and being joined after dinner by
some others of our party, we walked into the town.
It bore evident marks of its late desertion, as every-
where were seen empty and ruinous huts. Mr. Crow-
ther and I met with an A'kpoto man, who told us that
the inland districts are nominally subject to the Atta,
and that the language is mostly Igara, but that well
to the eastward it somewhat resembles that of Doma.
One of the largest towns in A'kpoto is A'nkpa, the
chief of which is named Omiakpa. He spoke also of
an E'lugu town which he had visited, which was called
E'nike. A threatening tornado hiu-ried us on board,
but fortunately it passed chiefly to the eastward.
Aliheli to-night repeated a singular story to me, one
which he had told me before, and which he always
affirmed to be correct. I do not know what to think
of it, as it seems improbable, but yet I have never
found AHlieli teUing anything approaching an untruth.
It is that when the Expedition of 1841 was at Idda,
Captain Trotter and the other Commissioners did not
see the Atta at all, but that he was personated by a
headman named O'sata, who is since dead. He says
he first heard this shortly after the Expedition left, and
has smce repeatedly known of its having been freely
talked about at Idda, having himself been told of it
when there on trading business. The present Atta,
whose name is Amatshedi, an indolent and unpopular
284 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
man, has been Atta for nearly twenty years. During
the early part of his reign he was but little seen at
Id da, and it was usually given out that he was at war
with some rebellious subjects in A'kpoto, though more
generally believed that he was living in seclusion not
far from his capital, enjoying an otium sine dignitate.
Aliheli stated that he had mentioned this story to
Mr. Beecroft when at Idda in the " Ethiope," in
1845, but that gentleman did not seem to pay much
heed to it.
In the morning I sent Aliheli to the Atta, to inti-
mate our arrival to his Majesty, convey our respectful
compliments, and also carry what would be
far more satisfactory to the Royal mind, a
nice present. I did not go myself, having no respect
for the character of the Atta, and being unwilling
again to go tlu'ough the hideous ceremony of an
audience, by which, moreover, nothing could be
gained. Trade was very dull, and no ivory made
its appearance. Many visitors came off to us,
among others the Galadima, Onupia, who had with
him as a slave an Albino boy. Aliheli on his re-
turn brought with him two of the King's eunuchs
as messengers, and two of his daughters, who were
desirous of visiting the ship. The messengers
brought the Atta's compliments, and an intimation
that he had a bullock for us, if we would send for
it ; on which I said that people would be despatched
the same afternoon. I then gave each of the mes-
sengers a red shirt, and selected something more
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 285
feminine for the young ladies, after wliich. tliey all
took their departure. A young Nupe, who was on
board, who was lately from Lade, spoke of I'ssa as
present King of Nupe; but his meaning could not
be well ascertained. Towards sunset eight stout
Kruboys were selected, and having been well pro-
vided with some pieces of strong rope, were sent
after the bullock. Wishing to see the capture, I
and several of the officers accompanied them, and
after a walk of two miles to the place mentioned,
were disappointed by finding no bullOck there ; and
the only explanation offered was, that being possibly
tired of waiting for us, it had gone to rejoin the
herd in the bush. Vexed at being thus again
deceived, I sent a sharp message to the Atta, and
returned towards the shore. It was now nearly
dark, and a wild festival was being celebrated in
honour of a war-chief who had died the day before.
Numbers of men, with their bodies colom-ed, their
faces disfigured, and in fantastic dresses, rushed at
full speed wildly about, armed vrith spears and
swords, screaming, shouting, and uttering hideous
cries. At first it was reported that some unfor-
tunate was about to be sacrificed to the manes of
this deceased warrior, but on inquiry we found to
our joy that this was incorrect, and that the ceremony
would be a bloodless one.
Id da is most decidedly on the decline, and not-
withstanding its fine position and its many advan-
tages, it must continue to droop as long as its rulers
286 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING YOYAGE. [chap. ix.
continue indolent, selfish, and tyrannical. The trade
has completely departed with A'boko's party, who,
at XJtutiiru, hold extensive markets, which are at-
tended by people from a great distance. Abo canoes
come up to them, as Aje is on friendly terms with
the A'bokos, probably as he finds them to resemble
himself in being energetic and practical.
Mr. Crowther and I landed early, and going to the
Galadima, had a long talk with him on various
matters. He sent for some palm wine for us, but,
just before drinking himself, was about, according
to custom, to pour a little on the ground as dju-dju
or sacred, when Mr. Crowther stopped him, explaining
to him the folly of such offerings — to all of which
he lent a willing ear. He gave us a long account
of Igara, with many of the traditions handed down,
and recounted the names of twenty Attas ; but,
most mifortunately, both Mr. Crowther and myself
were Avithout our pocket note-books, and so w^e lost
the list. The present Atta is the twentieth. The
country of Ado, or Edo, opposite Idda, is believed
by the natives to have been peopled from Ife, which
place, according to Yoruban tradition, was also the
cradle of theii' race.* From Ado, it is said, sprang
the kings of Igara, of Bini (Benin), and of Abo, and
secondarily from Idda the kings of Nupe and of
Panda. What is now known as Igara was formerly
all A'kpoto. As to the origin of the name Igara,
* See Crowther's Y6ruba Grammar, second edition, introductory
remarks.
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 287
occasionally Igala and Igana, there are two accounts :
one derives it from a Yoruba warrior, so called, who,
having attacked a tribe living on the western side,
opposite Agbedamma, drove them first across the
river, and then further to the eastward ; which event
is known in Yoruba tradition as the Igara war. The
other is that the three kings just mentioned were
brothers, and were sent by their father to found fresh
settlements. The King of A'kpoto at that time was
named Igara, and when the stranger arrived from
Ado he lived as a hunter, and sent most of the fruits
of the chase to Igara. But after a time followers
from Ado joined him until, growing powerful, he
refused to acknowledge Igara, or to give him any
share of his spoil ; this led to a quarrel, which ended
by Igara being driven into the interior, leaving only
his name behind him, on which the first Atta ascended
the throne. The Galadima said that the language of
the Ado people closely resembled that of Bini, to
which place they were tributary, and he added that
boys and men were sent from Ado to Idda to be
made eunuchs of. He told us that in A'kpoto were
many large towns, and he spoke of a country border-
ing on A'kpoto, which he called Ojiigu, probably
O'jogo.
At several of the market-towns on the south side
of the Binue, near the Confluence, and at Igbegbe,
we had seen a peculiar sort of country cloth, orna-
mented by perforations, which were done during the
weaving, and which, we were told, was made by the
288 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
I'gbo people, the g here being pronounced hard. We
had made many inquiries about this race, but until
our conversation with the Galadima could learn
nothing satisfactory about them, but now we found
they were the same as the " I'bo," Tgbo being merely
the hard pronunciation of this name. These cloths
are most probably manufactured in E'lugu, that being
the I'gbo district nearest to Igara, and the cloths
being found chiefly in the markets near the Confluence.
On our return on board about eight o'clock we
found a band, comprising five drums and two fifes,
playing on the shore very vigorously, but still not
unmusically ; to reward their exertions I sent them a
few handfuls of cowries, with which they w^ere vastly
delighted. When we arrived at Idda in August we
landed on the beach a few tons of patent fuel, to be
reserved in case of any emergency. This we now
found quite safe, and having shipped it, it was put
aside to be used in crossing the bar. At half-past
eight we were again under steam, and leaving behind
us the fine cliff's of Idda, turned our head once more
downwards. The country passed during this day's
voyage was rather uninteresting, flat and wooded near
the water, and with slight elevations a little way
inland. To the right was Ado, while on the other
hand was Igara. The only places of any consequence
passed were, to the eastward the village of Abijaga,
and to the w^estward the little river coming from the
Ado country. By two o'clock we were at anchor off"
Ada-mugu, and with Mr. Crowther, Mr. May, and
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUENCE. 289
Dr. Hutcliinson, I immediately went ashore. The
people, a rude-looking set, at first seemed alarmed,
and came in a large body armed with swords and
muskets to receive us. The numbers of the latter
weapon rather sm'prised us, used as we had been of
late to no missiles but arrows, but we were now
approaching the coast. On inquiring for their King,
they answered that he was lately dead, and that his
son, having committed a murder, had been obliged
to flee from the place. After a good deal of talking
a headman was pointed out, who appeared very un-
willing to acknowledge his responsible situation, but
at length, by dint of perseverance, laughing, talking,
smoking our cigars, and showing them how com-
pletely we felt at our ease, we succeeded in allaying their
fears, and in becoming friendly. The first symptom
of confidence exhibited was by the headman advan-
cing and offering me as a present thirty cowries and a
couple of kola nuts. His example was followed by
the head dju-dju man or high-priest of the village, and
some others, so that I was in a fair way of speedily
becoming wealthy. But at length their contributions
ceased, and though the amount of their donations,
about 100 cowries, equal to about three pence sterling,
was not exactly a fortune to me, yet it answered its
purpose by evidencing their feelings towards us. We
quickly struck up a trade in yams and firewood, both
of which were abundant and of good quality. The
latter was pm'chased for blue romals and needles,
and we kept up the trade until after sunset, when it
290 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
was too dark to continue. The yams were very-
different from those of the Confluence, being long,
slender, and pointed at either end, but very well
flavoured. Fish, beer, and red pepper were also pro-
duced, and we obtained a curious box, carved to
imitate a tortoise with its head extended. From a
canoe returning from a market at A'ra in Ado, I
bought some mats, which Mr. Crowther at once recog-
nized as being similar to those made by the Yoruba of
Ijebu, and there named A'ba, showing thereby that
the customs, &c., of Ado are more connected with
countries to the westward than to the eastward, and
thus indicating theii* origin.
During the following day, which was Sunday, we
remained quietly at anchor, having told the natives
that no business would be transacted. The forenoon
set in very hot, and at foiu' o'clock the thermometer
on the poop stood at ninety-six degrees. A slave
who came on board told us, that he was from a place
called Bagari, near Bornu, and that before he left his
own country, he could speak Arabic readily. During
our stay at Ada-mugii, besides a Meridian alti-
tude of the sun, Mr. May got two sets of lunar
observations.
The district around and behind Ada-mugu is
named Abaji, and the language is Igara, though I'gbo
is also understood. Ada-mugu was founded by
A'boko, on the site of a former Abaji viUage, at a
time when he had quarrelled with the Atta ; the
ground being given to him by the Abaji people.
CHAP. IX.] THE CONFLUEKCE. 291
A^boko used often to act quite independently of the
Atta, and at one time made war on Agatu entirely on
his own account. The latter part of his life was spent
chiefly at Idda, but his sons are scattered over various
towns and districts, wherever their adherents live,
or they possess property. A'ma-A'boko, the eldest,
succeeded to Igbegbe, as that was his mother's
country. Not far from Ada-mugu is a town named
Onuja, which was built by the son of a former Atta,
who was compelled to leave Idda, being too fond of
thinking and acting for himself. Below Ada-mugu
are two towns, one of which, Igbokeyi, is the residence
of Agabidoko, and the other, named after its proprietor,
" Amidoko," belongs to a chief who lives at Idda.
Early on the 30th, canoes were alongside with
firewood, sheep, fowls, eggs, bananas, coco-nuts, limes,
yams, pepper, palm-wine, &c. While steam was
getting up, Mr. May went in the gig and measured
the breadth of the river, after which we got under
way. On the left bank we saw the Igara town
Omodomo, and on the right we passed two market
towns in Ado, a little way from the river, named A'ra
and Uto, both founded by ATDoko. In these the
principal articles for sale are country cloths, mats,
and provisions. Uto was formerly named A'boko's
market ; and near it, a httle more inland, stands Oria,
also a market-place, the inhabitants of both of which
places speak Igara and Abo, as well as their own
language. These markets are chiefly frequented by
people from Idda and from Abaji. A'ra was given
u 2
292 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ix.
by A'boko to Agabidoko, but some interest is now
claimed in it by Ossamare ; its inhabitants are termed
A'param or A'pram. Between Abo and Uto there
fell out, many years ago, a serious quarrel, and
ever since, Abo people have ceased to attend its
market.
CHAPTER X.
I'GBO.
We now bade adieu to Igara and Ado, and entered
the Tgbo territories. Immediately adjoining
Abaji to the southward is Inam, the people of
which, though an I'gbo race, formerly paid tribute
to the Atta, and afterwards to Obi. A branch here
joins the river, known as the Inam river, and the
Inam country is nearly a day's canoe-journey up this
stream. The people trade chiefly at Asaba and
Onitsha, in country cloths, corn, yams, fowls, &c.
Next to Inam, but nearer the river, is Nsugbe or
Isugbe, founded upwards of twenty years ago by a
man from Abo, who, having killed one of his wives,
had to leave that place. The dialect spoken is Abo,
and tribute was formerly paid to Obi ; but, since his
death, to nobody. Their town, also named Nsugbe,
is on the north side of the Inam river, but the
district extends on both sides. The people deal in
similar articles to those of Inam, but trade principally
at Onitsha. Inam and Nsugbe are supplied with
muskets mostly from Idda, to which place they are
brought from Abo. At the time of our visit the
294 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
value of an ordinary musket at Idda was from 10,000
to 12,000 cowries, and at Abo, from 8000 to 9000
cowries ; the value of a flint at Abo was 20 cowries.
Below Walker Island, on the right bank, stands
a small village belonging to Asaba, and named
A'param-U'gboru. The language is Abo, and its
market is visited by traders from Igara, and from
Inam. At half-past eleven we anchored off Asaba,
and landing, Mr. May got an observation for latitude,
after which we ascended a sloping path leading to
the town. The inhabitants, at first rather alarmed,
soon became reconciled to our appearance, and we
were conducted to their King, followed by a large and
gradually increasing crowd. Asaba is finely situated
on a rising ground, about 100 feet above the river,
and is surrounded by walls, and by palisades of tall
trees. The huts are numerous, but widely apart ;
they are oblong, well-constructed, and many are
whitewashed or coloured. The inhabitants, extremely
numerous, were disposed to be friendly, but are a
wild, rude-looking people, much tatooed. The
principal marks are three perpendicular ones along
the breast and belly, the centre one being straight,
and the side ones curved ; another behind, following
the curve of the armpit, and going downwards;
seven short, perpendicular incisions on the forehead,
and a curved row of small lines under each eye.
These are to be universally seen, but some extra-
vagant individuals also sport others. The gardens
are hedged in with tall coco-palms, plantains, and
CHAP. X.] I GBO. 295
bananas ; yams are abundant, and fowls, fine slieep,
and cattle seem plentiful. Altogether we felt sur-
prised that such an unprepossessing race should have a
town so rich, so clean, and so well laid out. All the
men carry arms, muskets, knives, swords, &c., and
many have in their hands a kind of musical, or
rather, an acoustic instrument, made of a small
elephant's-tusk such as a scrivelloe, polished and
neatly ornamented externally, with a small square
hole near the apex communicating with the central
hollow, and through which, when they blow forcibly,
a loud and disagreeable sound is produced. I was
anxious to purchase one of these but did not
succeed. We were conducted to the King's house,
and seated, some on mats, some on carved wooden
stools, under a verandah, which sheltered us from the
intense heat of the sun. An immense crowd stood
around, and their look, their manner, and above
all their noise, told us we w^ere among a people
differing much from those we had lately been
familiar with ; in short, that we were once more
among the active, though often troublesome, I'gbos.
There are a number of petty chiefs in Asaba, who
made their appearance in full costume, all clad in a
similar manner. Each had round the waist a large
piece of white calico, and a belt of leopard's skin.
They wore red caps, decorated with white and red
feathers, which I found are only borne by warriors,
each feather denoting an enemy slain in actual war-
fare. Some of our entertainers had as many as five
296 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
or six, and I am told tliat Aje at Abo is entitled to
display seven. Round the eyes was a wliite-coloured
ring, on the arms were ivory wristlets; strings of
cowries and charms hung round their necks, and each
carried in his hand a fan. At length the head chief,
an old man, named Ezebogo, came forward, habited
like the rest, but with more ornaments. After our
salutations, I spoke of friendship, of trade, and of
education, and particularly enlarged upon the evils
of war, and the benefits of peace, all of which was
well received. Some most delicious palm-wine was
then handed round, of which we all drank deeply,
and, refreshed by this delightful beverage, we arose,
and, after another look round this extensive place,
returned to our ship, accompanied by a messenger,
who came for a present for Ezebogo. From some
people on the shore my assistant got some nice
specimens of fish, and of fresh-water crustaceans.
There are very few canoes at Asaba, but for what
reason I could not learn. It is excellently adapted
for a trading-station, and any European in ordinary
health could live here as well as in any similar tropical
spot. The district behind Asaba is named Igbusa,
and in it are two towns called Ogbori and Ogbobi.
A little above Asaba is said to be a village named
Asabutshi. Palm-wine is the drink of all the I'gbo
towns, and its use extends as far as Idda, above which
beer replaces it. The Muhammadans, though they
will not touch beer, yet readily drink palm-wine.
The palm-wine which we so admired at Asaba was
CHAP. X.] I GBO. 297
obtained from tlie oil-palin, and had been sweetened
witli honey.
Half-an-hour brought us to Onitsha, where on
landing we found the market, which is held close
to the river, nearly broken up, hardly any traders
being left. Among the canoes were several from
Abo. The town is situated from two to three miles
from the river, and we had not time to visit it ; but
we met the King's son, who is named Odiri, and by
him I sent a message to Akazua his father. Onitsha
is in E'lugu, and the dialects spoken are Elugu,
Isuama, and Abo. The first king of Onitsha was
named Udogu, who was alive about the time of
Lau'd and Lander's voyage. Odiri told us that the
fancy cloths about which we had been so often in-
quiring, were made near Onitsha. He gave us the
names of the following Elugu towns, from which
people attended the market held here every five days,
namely, Obotshi, Oja, U'mu, O'bba, Nkp6, Abaja-
Ezonganran, Abaja-O'bba, like, Akuku, Obu, Oto,
Newti, Ozhi-Owere, Ofu-Abaja, Nteja, Nkuere,
Nzhibe. Different kinds of fancy cloths are distin-
guished by difi'erent names, as Owowo, A'naba-Obiri,
and Nwega. Mr. CroAvther spoke to Odiri about
sending teachers, and mentioned to him the desire of
many E'lugus to come and settle here, on which Odiri
said all w^ould be willingly received and welcomed,
and would be protected as long as they continued to
conduct themselves properly. The country about
and behind Onitsha is elevated and dry, and quite
298 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
as eligible for a settlement as Asaba. Here also,
canoes are few and small. By half-past three we
were again wending our way down the river, passing
on the right bank some villages named O'ko, and on
the left, the district of Odegbe, which is close to the
river. I was anxious to have visited A'kra-A'taui ;
but not knowing the exact locality itself, and trusting
to Aliheli, he allowed us to pass it before men-
tioning anything about it. It is said to be oppo-
site a creek named the O'ko creek. Tradition relates
that the original inhabitants of Abo were named
A'kra, and when driven away by the race who came
from Ado, they went and settled in different direc-
tions, their towns being distinguished by the prefix of
A'kra to the previous name of the spot; thus we have
A'kra-A'tani, A'kra-U'gidi, and A'kra-Uteri. About six
o'clock we anchored off the mouth of a creek runnmg
behind Ossamare, and down which is said to be a town
named Osutshi. Opposite to our anchorage, on the
right bank of the river, is a village named Ut'shi.
A sharp squall from the north-north-east brought
us a deluge of rain and heavy thunder, lasting till
after six o'clock in the morning. The thermometer
fell to 74°, which actually felt cold. About seven
o'clock we got under steam, and passing by Bullock's
Island, which belongs to Ossamare, at eight o'clock
anchored off that town. We were almost immedi-
ately surrounded by canoes of all sizes, some so
small as to contain only one person, who sat with
the legs projecting over the sides of his tiny bark, and
CHAP, x.] IGBO. 299
when it was desired to alter the direction of the
canoe, one foot was dropped into the water, accord-
ing to the side to Avhich it was wished to steer. The
speed with which these Kttle canoes move, and the
ease with which they turn, is almost incredible ;
three or four may be seen hurrying towards one
common point, and every second the concerned spec-
tator expects to hear the crash of a collision, and to
see the occupants struggling in the tide ; but no —
just as destruction, to the eye of the stranger, seems
inevitable, wdth a dexterous movement of the foot
and a smart stroke of the paddle the catastrophe is
avoided. Two persons named Kaimene and Eyln
brought me presents of yams, and I offered them
some things in return. The one was satisfied, but
the other grumbled, on which 1 recommended him
to take back his yams, which made him alter his
tune, as he had only come to see what he could
make. At eight o'clock I went ashore to pay a
visit to the King, an old man, called Nzedegu. The
town is very inferior in situation to either Asaba or
Onitsha; it stands close to the river, and now especially,
after the heavy rain of the night, was particularly muddy
and filthy. To reach the palace we had to cross, by
a narrow plank, a deep dii'ty pool, and this frail
bridge bent so much in the middle as to immerse us
to the ankles. Om' conversation was of the usual
natm'e, and though the King at first made some
complaint about our not stopping off" his towm during
om* ascent, yet we contrived to give a satisfactory
300 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
reason, and to establish a perfectly friendly under-
standing. Mr. Crowther explained to Nzedegu the
nature of his visit, and the wishes of the Church
Missionary Society to send teachers among them ; a
statement which was eagerly listened to. After
exchanging presents we retired, and presently re-
embarked. Ossamare is in Isuama, but is closely
connected with Abo, to which until the death of Obi
it was tributary. A considerable quantity of palm-
oil is brought from the interior for shipment, being
the principal port of Isuama. The palm-oil is either
sold duectly to Abo and Oru traders, or else it is
taken to Abo for disposal. A little ivory occasionally
reaches it from Idda, but is generally sold to Isuama
at a high rate. In speaking of Isuama it is often used
in the contracted form of I'su.
On the right bank below Bullock's Island stands
Okpai, after which the Abo territory proper com-
mences, the first town in it being A'se. Opposite
the south end of Bullock's Island, to the eastward, is
the district of Obagwe, with a town of the same
name, below which is U'gidi, in which is situated
A'kra-U'gidi. To the southward of U'gidi, still near
the river is Ogii, and further down the district and
town of Egboma. Bather behind Egboma stands
Uguta, the inhabitants of which come to the river
for fishing and trading. At the mouth of the affluent,
commonly marked in charts as the Bonny creek, is
Ndoni, inhabited by a trading people, who go as far
as Idda for oil, which they bring to Abo for sale.
CHAP. X.] I GEO. 301
They speak the Abo dialect, and are reputed as skilful
artisans. Red-coloured varieties of palm-oil bear a
higher price in the river markets than the darker-
coloured sorts. At A'kra-A'tani, two small jars of
red oil cost 2000 cowries. The kernel oil is only
manufactured about the Confluence.
About two o'clock we were at our old anchorage
off the Abo creek, and shortly afterwards, Mr. Crow-
ther, with Dr. Hutchinson and Mr. Taylor, went on
shore, and on their return brought off Simon Jonas,
who reported that he had been very well treated and
cared for by Aje. Just after our departure he
had a severe attack of illness, but was carefully
watched and nursed. He had lately visited Ossamare,
ATira-A'tani, Onitsha, and Asaba, at all of which
places he had been well received, as also at OTio-Ala,
about a day's journey up the Abo creek. Wherever
he had shown himself, he had been looked upon as a
superior person, such influence do knowledge and
civilization confer on their possessors. He had found
the people always attentive, desirous of information,
and retentive of what was taught them. He told us
that there were many Isuama and Ndoni people
resident in Abo at this time ; that many canoes had
been lately from Brass and Orti, but none from
Bonny ; and that cowries were of but little value in
the Abo market, as he had seen 2000 paid for a
single fowl. I had been very desirous of getting a
pair of large ivory anklets, such as were worn by the
Abo ladies, and had commissioned Simon to procure
302 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
me a pair, but as he found that their price would
have been equal to the cost of four slaves, he wisely
declined getting them. He told me also, that the
name by which the river is known in the interior of
I'gbo is " Anyim." I had told the trading gentle-
men, that if they found any trade, I was perfectly
ready to make any convenient stay, though one day
would complete all that Mr. May and I wanted;
after being ashore, however, they stated that they
saw little prospect of doing much. Our stock of tea
was about exhausted, when, this afternoon, out of
cm'iosity I ordered a chest, which had been kicking
about and owned by nobody, to be opened, and
it was found to contain eight large cases of tea !
Another such box, opened after we had been passing
most of the night in entire darkness, not being able
to afford lights, proved to be filled with excellent
composition candles !
Aliheli related to me a circumstance regarding
King Obi, which I heard confirmed at Idda, and at
Igbegbe, and which seems quite to free him from any
suspicion of being concerned in Mr. Carr's mm'der.
On hearing of this untoward event, Obi immediately
sent to the Atta, to acquaint him of it, saying it
was very unfortunate and would injure their prospects
of trading with white men, and asking what steps
ought to be taken about it. The Atta not feeling
himself sufficiently powerful to act, sent to Dasaba,
requesting his assistance in punishing the mm'derers.
This the latter readily agreed to, and off'ered to lead
CHAP. X.] I GBO. 303
an army to tke sea, provided the Atta would furnish
canoes when requii'ed. Accordingly he marched along
the right bank, until opposite A'da-mugu, when
getting into swampy ground, he was afraid of losing
his men, and therefore retraced his steps, making up
for his disappointment by pillaging and destroying all
the Kakcinda towns and villages in his way. Obi's
father was named Ogboma. Aje has fom* large war-
canoes, and about 250 slaves, while Tshukuma has
five smaller canoes, and about 50 or 60 slaves.
In the morning I went ashore with Mr. May, and
with difficulty finding ground firm enough to support
us, we got a set of sights. I sent Simon Jonas in the
gig to bring off" Aje and Tshukuma, whom I had
invited on board, and in the meantime I settled with
Aliheli, who now returned to his own abode and his
two wives. He had proved most faithful and most
valuable, and had been the means of procuring much
information for us. Should I be so fortunate as again
to ascend the Kwora, 1 should consider my stafi" incom-
plete if he were not included as one of its members.
About half-past eleven, Tshukuma and his head
wife came alongside in the gig, on which I ordered
two guns to be fired. He was attired almost exactly
as he had been when I last saw him. Presently Aje
was seen to approach in a large canoe with seventeen
paddles of a side, and accompanied by several of his
wives, and some of his brothers and their wives.
Another salute was fired, after which we received our
visitors on board, and with some difficidty got them
304 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
all seated on the poop. Aje is a tall, rather stout,
young-looking man, very superior in appearance to his
brother, and is said in manner and countenance greatly
to resemble his father. He appeared dressed in home-
made scarlet-cloth trousers, a scarlet uniform coat,
a pink beaver hat, under which, apparently to make
it fit, was a red worsted night-cap, no shoes, beads
round the neck, and in his hand a Niger-expedition
sword. After talking of general matters, I spoke of
his father, of Captain Trotter, of trade, and of our
wishes and intentions, on which he replied that he
considered that whatever his father wished or promised
was binding on him, adding, however, that we seemed
very long in carrying out om' part of the agreement.
I gave him a double-barrelled gun, a large sabre, a
scarlet tobe, some cloth and beads, and some scissors,
mirrors, and needles for his wives, and also three
krus (27,000) of cowries for his kindness to Simon
Jonas. This last he said must be shared by his
brother, on which I ofiered Tshukuma an equal amount,
and gave him also other presents. With all Aje
seemed dissatisfied, and asked, why we did not give
so much as Captain Trotter did,* on which I mentioned
our long voyage, the many presents we had given
away, and of our stock being exhausted. Still he
asked for things I had not, until I was obliged to
speak more plainly, telling him how unreasonable
his behaviour was, and how unlike what I expected
* The enormous amount of presents given in 1S41 proved very em-
barrassing to us, as we were always expected to bestow an equal quantity.
CHAP. X.] I GBO. 305
in a son of Obi. He then laughed, showing that he
was merely trying to get as much as he could, a
daily Abo practice. He next asked for the traders,
who were sent for, and showed them a quantity of
firewood, yams, palm-oil, and a bullock he had for
sale. He proved a very keen hand, and only parted
Avitli his articles at a high price ; he looked to
everything himself, saw things handed on board,
and the cowries counted. He gave me as his dash
a bullock and 200 yams, which latter were here,
though very good, very small and rounded. I took
him round the ship, fired a swivel off before him,
and showed him the engine. I explained to him
that as our provisions were nearly expended, I could
offer him but little ; on which he said he would merely
ask for some biscuit, which I gave him. He was
much amused with the shower-bath, which he called
all his wives to look at, and was much pleased with
a German accordian which I gave him. Some one,
rather foolishly, asked him to a dinner of salt pork
and yams, with a glass of sour claret, however he
sat down with us, and the meal passed over tolerably.
The palm-oil was all rejected, as it could not be started
on board, and no casks were sent on shore for it. Aje
told Mr. Crowther and me, that if any order had
been left in July, he could have had plenty for us.
The river was now falling quickly, and the decrease of
the water was perceptible daily. Om' sick-list was
gradually diminishing, and the few who remained
were convalescing rapidly under good food. On
306 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
examining our stock of edibles, we found that we
had made our calculations very fairly, as by the
time we should reach Fernando Po, we should have
nearly consumed everything. There were now on
board just four days' fresh provisions for all hands,
half a case of biscuit, and flour for eight days for
the officers, but there was abundance of rice and of
yams on board, so that we could not starve, and I
had no desire to leave the river as long as we had
any provisions fit to eat.
Mr. May and Mr. Harcus made an early start to
sound for a supposed rock, marked in Allen's Chart.
They found a shoal patch with three fathoms, while
all around it were seven and eight fathoms. As the
trading gentlemen intimated that they coidd do
nothing more, I resolved to start in the afternoon.
In the meanwhile Dr. Hutchinson went to try and
get some firewood, but returned with a very small
supply, saying he thought Aje was interrupting the
sale. On this, with Mr. Crowther, I started off to see
Aje, while Dr. Hutchinson went again in the pinnace
to look for fuel. We found Aje at home, when I
mentioned that he had not kept his promise to us
about firewood, and I told him that Englishmen liked
to do business promptly. He apologized and said
we should have what we wanted in the morning,
but I answered that would not do, as I should
leave in another hour. We got, however, very
friendly, and had a long chat. Mr. Crowther then
spoke to him of a site for teachers if they were sent
CHAP. X.] I GBO. 307
here, when Aje told him that any spot he selected
would be reserved for that purpose. He gave us
some capital palm-wine, and seeing that we relished
it, ordered a quantity to be sent on board. Before
saying farewell, he asked my name, and ordered two
messengers to attend us and see us safely off. He
told us finally that he should expect to see us about
the beginning of the next rainy season, on which we
said we could not promise, but hoped we might then
return. On our way down the creek we got wood
enough to load both boats, and a man gathered for
me a specimen of the Malaghetta-pepper plant. We
did not get up steam, but dropped down the river,
anchoring for the night off A'kra-Uteri.
As in addition to what I learnt while in the river,
I got much information about I'gbo from persons
belonging to that country at Fernando Po, and at
Sierra Leone, it will be advisable here to embody all
the interesting facts connected with it. I'gbo, as T
have formerly mentioned, extends east and west,
from the Old Kalabar river to the banks of the Kwora,
and possesses also some territory at Abo to the west-
ward of the latter stream. On the north it borders
on Igara and A'kpoto, and it is separated from the
sea only by petty tribes, all of which trace their
origin to this great race. In I'gbo each person hails,
as a sailor would say, from the particular district
where he was born, but when away from home all
are I'gbos. And yet considerable differences exist
between different parts of this extensive country, and
X 2
308 NAERATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
the dialects spoken also vary greatly. Those of
whicli we heard during our voyage as being well
marked are the Abo, Elugu, Isuama, and A'ro, of
which that of Isuama is the most widely diffused, the
softest, and the best adapted for the lingual standard.
E'lugu is in the far north, close to Igara, and near it,
to the eastward, are two smaller districts, Isielu, and
Isiago. Of Abo I have already spoken fully. Isuama
is the most central division, and at the same time the
largest. A'ro is more to the south-east, and is, as I
shall presently have reason to mention, a very im-
portant place. Of other minor districts I may mention
the following. About a day's journey up the river
from Okuloma (Bonny) is " Ndoki " as it is termed
by its own inhabitants, but by the Tghos of the
interior it is styled O'kwa. Near this is " Ngwa "
through which it is said, no rivers nor creeks run, so
that the people have to dig wells for water. In it are
many villages, in which the streets are left very
wide. North-west fi'om Ngwa is O'zuzu, where
the language differs slightly in dialect, and in which
every town has its own chief. The people employ a
peculiar mark, viz., three rows of minute lines from
the ear to the angle of the eye, the middle row straight,
and the two others converging towards the eye ; two
curved lines of small incisions from the lobe of the
ear, curving along the cheek, to the end of the lines
at the eye, and two short rows of similar lines under
the eyes towards the nose, and a line of incisions of
the same kind down the forehead and nose. A similar
CHAP. X.] i'gbO. 309
marking is employed by some of the neiglibouring
districts. O'zuzu people trade much with New
Kalabar, which they know as Bom, but also as
Karabari or Kalahari. There is plenty of palm-oil in
O'zuzu, and abundance of cocos and yams. To the
north or north-north-west of O'zuzu lies " Mbohia,"
called at Bonny "Ikpofia." There are few towns
here, it being chiefly a bush country. The derivation
being from Mba country, and OJda bush. There is
but little oil made here, and the people are warlike.
Close to it is another similar district, and with in-
habitants of like propensities. It is named Ogone,
but at Bonny is known as Egane. The people of
Ndoki and Ngwa are reputed cannibals, that is
to say, after war they eat the flesh of their enemies,
but generally in secret. One of my informants
assured me that, when a slave in Ngwa, he was an
eye-witness to a repast of this nature. It took place
after the death of a lady of property, when some
slaves, purchased for the occasion, were slain and
feasted on. Prom two to four days' journey north
from Bonny, is a large and important market town,
named Ogobendo, but which at Bonny is always
called Bende. It is a grand depot for slaves, as well
as for palm-oil and provisions, and supplies with the
former New Kalabar, Bonny, and Andony, as well as
other neighbouring countries. When the foreign slave
trade was being actively carried on, this town was in
the zenith of its wealth and importance, and even
since has declined but little, as it still remains the
810 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
centre of the home slave mart for the coast, and the
south of I'gbo. I inquired particularly after a sup-
posed district or tribe, mentioned by Clarke and some
other writers, as I'tshi or Bretshi, but found that this
was a misapplication of the term. There is no place
of this name, but I'tshi, which means "cut-face,"
refers to certain individuals who are marked by
numerous cuttings on the forehead, which greatly
disfigure the countenance. I fell in with one of
these I'tshi, who confirmed all this, and told me that
this practice prevails chiefly in Isuama, and that it
is confined to the families of the wealthy. As far as I
could gather, it is only the males who are thus
hideously tatooed, though in I'gbo it is reckoned
becoming, and entitles the possessors to respect.
The word Bretshi is wrong, Mbrltshi being the
correct term, but I'tshi is more frequently employed.
To the northward and eastward of Ndoki is a large
district named Abanyim, where the I'gbos and people
from Old Kalabar meet for trade. Not far from this
stands the noted city of A'ro or A'no, where is the
celebrated shrine of TsJmku, or the deity to which
pilgrimages are made, not only from all parts of I'gbo
proper, but from Old Kalabar, from the tribes along
the coast, and from Orii, and Nimbe or Brass. The
city is described as being nearly three times the size
of Abo, and as extremely populous. The inhabitants
are skilful artisans, and manufacture swords, spears,
and metallic ornaments, specimens of all of which I have
seen, and can therefore testify to their being very
CHAP. X.] I'GBO. 311
neatly finished. The town is always mentioned with
great respect, almost, at times, with a degree of vene-
ration, and the people say " Tsliuku ah yamay or
" God lives there." The dialect of A'ro is peculiar,
but Isuama and E'lugu are also much spoken, as well
as E'fik or Old Kalabar, and numerous other languages
are to be heard among the crowds of pilgrim-votaries
who throng the shrine. The mark used in A'ro consists
of a series of (from ten to twelve) short horizontal lines,
just before the ear. Of other places of which I heard,
without being able to obtain any remarkable particu-
lars about them, I may mention Abam to the north
of Ogobendo, Isiapo a small district between Ndoki
and Bonny and which may be reached by canoe,
Orata to the eastward of O'zuzu, and finally Omiimsi,
a town in E'lugu, the inhabitants of which are said to
be very short, but very stout.
The religion of I'gbo is entirely Pagan, mixed up
with numerous rites and ceremonies, neither in general
so frightful nor so bloody as those practised in Bini, in
Dahomi, and other more western countries, but still
all of a pre-eminently superstitious character. The
I'gbos all believe in an Almighty-being, omnipresent
and omnipotent, whom they call TsJmku, whom they
constantly worship, and whom they beheve to com-
municate directly with them through his sacred shrine
at A'ro. But they speak also of another and a dis-
tinct Deity, who at Abo is known as Orissa, but
throughout other parts of I'gbo, as ''TsJdkii-OkcJicJ'
" God the creator, or the supreme God." Abo people
312 NARRATIVE OF AK EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
believe tliat after death, those wlio have been good
on earth may either go to Orissa and abide with
him, or they may, if they hke, visit any country on
earth ; and so slaves often, when dying, say that they
will go and revisit their native land ; if, on the other
hand a wicked man dies, it is understood that he is
driven to OMmq, or hell ; derived from O'ho, fire, and
mo spirit. In Abo every man and every woman of
any consequence keeps as dju-dju or sacred, the lowxr
jaw of a pig, or, until they can procure this, a piece
of wood fashioned like one. This is preserved in their
huts, and produced only when worshipped, or when
sacrifices are made to it, which are at certain times,
at intervals of from ten days to three weeks. The
particular days are determined by the dju-dju men
or priests, and by them intimated to the people.
They sprinkle this dju-dju with palm-wine, and
touching it with a kola-nut, speak to it, and ask it to
be good and propitious towards them. It is named
Agha, meaning pig, or Agha-E'zlii, or pig's-jaw ; but
when kept as dju-dju, it is also termed Ofuiii, or " my
image," and also TsJmkii. People also select particular
trees near their huts, or, if there are none in the
neighbourhood, they transplant one ; these they
worship and caU TsJdImm, or " my God." They hang
on these bits of white baff (caHco,) as signs of a dju-
dju tree, and as offerings to the deity. No one ever
touches these, and if they rot off they are replaced.
Little wooden images are also used, and are styled
O'fo-Ts/dku, or " images of God," and to these they
CUAF. X.] I'GBO. 313
talk and pray. When a man is suspected of false-
hood, one of these is placed in his right hand, and he
is made to swear by it, and if he does so falsely it is
believed that some evil will speedily befal him.
Sacrifices, principally of fowls, are made to these
latter, as to the former. In Isuama and in E'lugu
there are similar usages, but the pig's-jaw is not
employed, and no white baff is hung on the trees.
At Abo one large tree is held as djii-dju for the whole
district, it is covered with ofiPerings, and there is an
annual festival in honour of it, when sacrifices of
fowls, sheep, goats, and bullocks are made. When a
man goes to A'ro to consult Tshiiku, he is received by
some of the priests outside of the town, near a small
stream. Here he makes an ofi'ering, after which a
fowl is killed, and, if it appears unpropitious, a
quantity of a red dye, probably camwood, is spilt into
the water, which the priests tell the people is blood,
and on this the votary is huiTied off" by the priests
and is seen no more, it being given out that Tshiiku
has been displeased, and has taken him. The result
of this preliminary ceremony is determined in general
by the amount of the present given to the priests, and
those who are reported to have been carried off" by
TsJmku are usually sold as slaves. Formerly they were
commonly sent by a canoe, by a little creek, to Old
Kalabar, and disposed of there. One of my informants
had met upwards of twenty such unfortunates in Cuba,
and another had also fallen in with several at Sierra
Leone. If, however, the omen be pronounced to be
314 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
favourable, the pilgrim is permitted to draw near to
the shrine, and after various rites have been gone
through, the question, whatever it may be, is pro-
pounded, of course, through the priests, and by them
also the reply is given. A yellow powder is given to
the devotee, who rubs it round his eyes, which powder
is called in I'gbo, E'do. Little wooden images are also
issued, as tokens of a person having actually consulted
the sacred oracle, and these are known as O'fo-Tslmku,
and are afterwards kept as dju-dju. A person who has
been at A'ro, after returning to his home, is reckoned
dju-dju or sacred for seven days, during which period
he must stay in his house, and people dread to approach
him. The shrine of Tslmhi is said to be situated
nearly in the centre of the town, and the inhabitants
of A'ro are often styled O'mo-TsJmku, or God's children.
Mo ndjd means a bad or evil spirit. The greatest
or worst of evil spirits, is named Kamdllo, possibly
equivalent with Satan. His name is frequently
bestowed on children, and in some parts of I'gbo,
especially in Isuama, Kamallo is worshipped. No
images are made, but a hut is set apart, in which are
kept bones, pieces of iron, &c., as sacred. Persons
make inquiries of this spirit, if they wish to commit
any wicked action, such as murder, when they bring
presents of cowries and cloth to propitiate this evil
being and render him favourable to thek designs. If
the individual intended as the victim suspects any-
thing, or gets a hint of his adversary's proceedings,
he also comes to worship, bringing with him, if pos-
cuAP. s.] i'gBO. 315
sible, more valuable offerings, to try to avert the
impending danger, and this is called Erise ndo, or
" I cut on both sides." Kamdllo means " one going
about everywhere and in all directions." Another
evil spirit is named Igw'ihdlla ; alia, meaning " ground,"
and Tffwik, "one who lived above before coming
down." In Isuama if a man is sick, the doctor often
tells the friends to consult Igwihalla, and he is also
worshipped by persons wishing to injure others. His
supposed abode is generally in a bush, which has been
well cleared all round, but occasionally huts are
dedicated to him, and priests execute his decrees.
Throughout I'gbo the bodies of the dead are
generally interred. In Abo this is invariably done,
and the grave is always in the hut of the deceased,
but this does not prevent the place remaining in-
habited. In Abo slaves used always to be sacrificed
on such occasions, and so late as the decease of King
Obi, Simon Jonas told me that forty slaves were
killed, these being specially purchased for this horrid
purpose, domestic slaves never being so treated. As
far as I could learn, however, this practice is gradually
dying out at Abo, if it is not altogether extinct.
Graves, therefore, of chiefs are large pits, into which
are first thrown a number of dead slaves, then the
body of the departed, and lastly some more slaves.
In Isuama it is only rich persons who are buried in
their own houses, the bodies of slaves being simply
interred in the bush. In Isuama a part only of the
clothes of the deceased are thrown into the grave, but
31 G NAKRATIVE OP AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
in Abo almost tlie entire wardrobe and all tlie
ornaments descend with their late possessors into the
tomb ; thus women, too, are buried with their rings
and anklets, a practice which serves to keep up the
enormous price of the latter, which, again, are seldom,
if ever, worn in Isuama.
In E'lugu, 1 Bullocks are killed aud eaten, guns are
Isuflma, > fired, Dancing and other amusements
Ebilne, J take place.
In Ab6,
A'ro,
B(5m,
Ndoki,
Oru',
In addition to these above mentioned,
slaves are killed.
In I'gbo time is measured by years ; by seasons, as
the dry season, the rainy season, &c. ; by moons, of
course about twenty-eight days; and lastly, by a
shorter period, analogous to our week, but consisting
only of four days. These are termed as follows : —
First day, E'ke, Third day, Nkwo,
Second day, O'ri, Fourth day, A'fo.
E'ke corresponds to our Sunday, and on it no
regular work is done. Some pass this day in idle-
ness, others consult their O'fo TsJmJcu and other images
or sacrifice to them. But they are not very strict
about its observance. This last division of time shows
itself in many ways, thus their markets are held every
four days.
The food of the inhabitants of I'gbo consists of
yams, corn, rice, bananas, plantains, coco-nuts, palm-
oil, and other esculent vegetable matters, also fowls,
sheep, goats, bullocks, or the flesh of any wild animals.
CHAP. X.] I'GBO. 317
Dogs are occasionally eaten at Abo, as also in Igara
and - Nupe, but not so regularly as in Bini, Oru,
Nimbe, Ebane, and New Kalabar. There is a con-
siderable traffic carried on at Abo in dogs, which are
purchased at Idda, and are sold to supply the
delta of the river. The price of a large dog is
usually one bag of salt, and of a small one, one piece
(seven fathoms) of common calico. Cats are pro-
cured from Idda for killing vermin, but are not used
as food. Rats are eaten, as far as I could learn, at
Nimbe (Brass). Monkeys are prized as food all along
the river, except by the Hausa Muhammadans, who
hold this animal in great abhorrence. ' At Abo a great
medium of barter is salt, which is brought up from
Nimbe and from Bini, and is always in demand.
Slaves are almost always purchased with salt, the
jprices varying somewhat according to the condition
of the market. The average price of a stout male
slave is from ten to twelve bags of salt, or from
60,000 to 70,000 cowries, and for a good-looking
young female, eight to ten bags of salt, or from 45,000
to 50,000 cowries.
Throughout I'gbo great wars are now seldom heard
of, but petty quarrels often occur. The last time Abo
was at war was about 1851, with Dasaba, when one
Abo man, and ten or twelve of Dasaba's party were
killed. The usual style of disputes generally ends in
the capture of a canoe, or the confiscation of a cargo.
When King Boy was at Abo, in 1842, about the
time of Lieutenant Webb's visit in the " Wilberforce,"
318 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [uhap. x.
Obi taxed him with having been concerned in Mr.
Carr's murder, which, however, Boy would not admit.
But his precipitate retreat from Abo was looked on as
strong evidence of his guilt, and from that period
none of his canoes ever came to Abo until about three
years before our visit, at w^hich time several arrived
for trading purposes. A quarrel, however, soon took
place, which ended in the Abo people seizing the
cargoes, and the Nimbe men retreating and carrying
off some Abo canoes. Since then friendly relations
have been dropped, but a year before the arrival of
the " Pleiad," two headmen had been deputed to go
to Nimbe to try and settle difiPerences. But various
diplomatic difl&culties and delays had occurred, and
when I heard the story, the Abo envoys were still
residing at the court of Nimbe.
Not to lose time in the Delta, we were under steam
as soon as we could distinguish our way. Mr.
Guthrie told me, from the trials he had made, that
shea-butter was not well adapted for the engines,
being dii^ty and too solid, and that it was only fit
for lubricating slides. The palm-kernel oil again was
excellent, quite as good as the castor-oil of India,
and could be employed in any part where the engine
was warm, but not for the shaft, where only olive-oil
could be used. The character of the vegetation on
the river's banks w^as now changing. Bomhacea
were becoming abundant and seemed to replace the
Adansonice of the upper regions. About nine o'clock
observing much cut w^ood near a village, we anchored
CHAP. X.] IGBO. 319
close off it, and going ashore easily purchased for
trinkets a considerable quantity. The village, which
is the first one in the Oru country, is named Agberi, and
the chief, called Agbekiim, had been on board as we
passed on our ascent. Since that time he had been on a
pilgrimage to A'ro, to inquire why his wife had no
children, and from this place he had but just retiu-ned.
Mr. Crowther and I were delighted at such an
opportunity presenting itself of getting some direct
information about this mysterious place, so as soon
as the trading operations were fairly set a-going, we
got closeted with this man in his hut. He was still
dju-dju, but we did not feel any particular dread in
sitting by him, and besides as strangers it was
permitted to us to visit him. He went by canoe
from Agberi to a creek nearly opposite Abo,
and entering it, proceeded to a place named
Igbdma (Egboma ?), whence he finished his journey
by land. On arriving at A'ro the priests gave
him some yellow powder, which he showed us,
and which they said would kill him if his heart were
bad : he also exhibited some articles, as guardian
images, also obtained from the priests. He was un-
willing to speak freely of Tshuku, whom he told us
could not be seen, but could only be heard through
the priests. He told us there were many people
from Old Kalabar living in A'ro, and also some whom
he termed " Ibibi," whom I believe to be from the
country known to white traders as " Egboshari," near
the Cross river, as the E'fik name for that place is
320 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
Ibibio. We saw here an A'ro slave, when I had an
opportunity of examining the distinguishing mark of
that place, to which I have already alluded. Some
of the people were much interested in seeing Mr.
Crowther writing, and were extremely astonished
when handing his note-book to me, I read " Agberi "
and "Agbekum," the names of their town and of
their chief. The chief said that if any intimation
had been given to his people, they could have col-
lected plenty of palm-oil ready for us to ship now.
He told us also, that the nearest district inland from
Agberi was Akpofia (Mbohia), from the borders of
which they were distant about a day's journey, or
from fifteen to twenty miles ; while we were wooding,
Mr. May measured the breadth of the river, and
got a meridian altitude of the sun. This latter con-
firmed a careful observation taken at Abo two days
previously, the result of which was altering the lati-
tude of Abo by eight miles.* About half-past twelve
we were under steam, proceeding towards the sea, and
passing many villages, off none of which we called,
being desu^ous, if possible, of getting as far as Angiama.
During the afternoon we had a very fresh breeze blow-
ing up the river with occasional rain. We continued
until nearly seven o'clock, when as it was becoming too
dark to see our way clearly, and Mr. May having to
* On mentioning this since our return to Captain Allen, that gentleman
said he would have little doubt in preferring Mr. May's observations to
his own, as the latter were taken twice, and with an artificial horizon,
while his were taken with an imperfect natural horizon, and while he was
suffering from indisposition.
CHAP. X.J 1 GBO. 321
revise this part of his chart, we anchored off the lower
mouth of the Wilberforce Channel. This channel is
in Allen and Thomson's Narrative * called the O'gu-
borlh river, but I see on referring to Vogel's Journal,!
that on asking some natives who were at a distance
their name for it, they only fancied that they gave it
as " Oguberri." I should rather think that there is
some mistake here, and that this name does not refer
to the river at all, as I always found that they had
but one designation for the river and its branches,
viz., " Osimini," except when they described any
creek as leading to a certain place. This was about
one of the most unpleasant anchorages which we had
during our voyage, the air was close and unhealthy,
and we could by the moonlight see large patches of
mist hanging about the tops of the trees. Mos-
quitoes crowded on board, possibly to welcome us on
our return, but the pleasure of meeting was not
reciprocal, nor could we persuade them to take a
(juiet hint and retire. I detected one settling in the
most cool and impudent manner on the back of my
hand, preparing to enjoy an extemporary banquet. I
fancied I recognized this savage intruder as being the
same which had, during our ascent, committed on me
an assault to the effusion of blood, but in the heat
of my indignation I sacrificed this sanguinary gnat,
without allowing time for mutual recognition, so that
this question of identity must remain for ever a
doubtful point in history.
* Vol. i. p. 1S4. t Page 50.
Y
S-Z-Z NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
The morning brought with it no refreshing breeze,
and all around us was enveloped in mist. During
the night there had been heavy rain, and occasional
showers continued until daybreak. As soon as we
could see we weighed anchor, and dropping down
about two miles were abreast of Angiama, where, as
the water was deep, we hauled alongside the bank.
Mr. Crowther and I immediately landed, and found
the place intolerably wet and muddy. The moist
ground was yielding abundant malarious exhalations,
and the sun's rays had not yet succeeded in pene-
trating through the murky atmosphere. Tor the
first time I was conscious of a disagreeable, sickly
smell, and after a short time felt so faint that I had
to return on board and get something to revive
myself. Before this, however, we had found out the
King's house, and telling him we wanted fuel, re-
quested him to desire his people to sell it to us.
After we had firmly established commercial relations,
I had a second interview with the King, whose name
is Ndawa, to whom I spoke of the folly of his people
in trying to obstruct the free navigation of the river,
and in attempting to keep all trade in their own
hands. I told him we were desirous of being
friendly with them, but that if ever the Oru men
tried to oppose or injure us, we had the power, and
should feel obliged to resort to force ; but that
instead of driving us to employ such unpleasant
means, how much better would it be for all, were
enmity laid aside, and quarrelling, which woidd only
CHAP. X.] I GBO. 323
lead to bloodshed, entirely foresworn. To all this
the King returned most peaceable replies, and ended
by giving me a sheep, and some yams and coco-nuts,
on which I presented him with a red cloak, which
pleased him no less than it delighted the spectators.
On walking through the town I fell in with a doctor's
shop, a great curiosity, but was unable to see the
learned gentleman himself, and to claim him as a pro-
fessional brother. It was a small room, wonderfully
clean, and painted, the sides being striped with blue,
black, red, and white, and the back checked with
the same colom-s. Two pots of herbs in steep were
placed on a tripod, composed of three branches
springing from a common origin. Two divining
rods, many long pointed sticks, (one cut like a
crocodile's head, another carved to resemble a tortoise,
and a third painted rudely to represent a man,) were
in different corners, while hanging around the walls
were numerous strings of cowries and other charms.
Coco-palms were very abundant, and at that time
hung all round with fruit. This is the place where
Lander was attacked when returning in an open boat
to rejoin Oldfield. Since that time the village has
been moved about 300 yards further up, but the
place opposite which he received his mortal wound
is marked by a tall palm-tree. We left Angiama
about a quarter past nine, with the intention of
having no more stoppages until we arrived at the
mouth of the river; we passed many crowded
villages, the inhabitants of which gathered along the
324 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [tRAr. x.
banks to observe us. As the water permitted, we gene-
rally steamed near the bank, for the purpose of inquiring
the names of the towns ; but the people usually replied
by telling us to come ashore and find out for our-
selves, for which we had neither time nor inclina-
tion. Palms were gradually increasing in number,
and after passing Sunday Island, we came upon our
old friends the mangroves. Just above Louis' Creek,
the soundings, it being low ebb, decreased greatly ; for
a short time we had only one fathom ; but we
cautiously advanced under Mr. Richards's skilful
pilotage, and presently at the mouth of the creek,
again were able to steam on boldly ahead. A few
minutes more and we were gratified by having a
distant view of the sea, and of being refreshed by
the cool sea-breeze. At a quarter past three, we
anchored off Baracoon Point, exactly sixteen weeks
from the time we had left it behind us when upward
bound, and we felt especially thankful that we had
all been spared to return in health and strength
after a four months' sojourn up the river Niger.
There appeared to be a heavy sea on the bar, but
as that did not concern us, we spent the remaining
portion of daylight in clearing out the canoes and
getting them ready for towing, and in getting the coals,
&c., they contained on deck. The evening was clear
and cloudless, and about nine o'clock we had a good
opportunity of watching a partial eclipse of the moon.
Early in the morning Mr. May and Mr. Richards
went in the gig by the creek to the Brass river, to
CHAP. X.] I'GBO. 325
endeavour to get some news. The hands on board
resumed their task of clearing out the canoes. At
6 "30 and 6 4 5 a.m., we heard guns in the distance,
and fancying that they might be from some ships
in the offing, we repUed to them, but we subsequently
ascertained that they had been fired by the ships at
the mouth of the Brass river, a distance from us of
ten miles. Some heavy thunder-clouds wdth rain
passed over us from time to time during the day.
At half-past eight work was knocked off, and at ten
we had church service, when Mr. Crowther offered
up a special thanksgiving for the return of the
expedition with the entire crew in safety. In the after-
noon we prepared for sea, securing the deck cargo,
and passing the canoes astern, as I was anxious to
attempt the bar in the morning. I had been desirous
to get to the mouth of the river at this time, being
just after the top of the spring tides, when the bar
could be most easily crossed, and luckily we had
been able to hit om- time very nicely. About sun-
set Mr. May and Mr. Richards retiu-ned, having had
a pleasant cruize, but having been unsuccessful in
obtaining any European intelligence later than what
we were aware of in July, when we left Fernando Po,
so cut off from home news are many of the palm-oil
ships. Mr. May ascertained that the town marked
as Brass Town in the maps is incorrectly so named,
it being called Tuwon, the true Brass Town of white
traders, or Nimbe, being thirty-five miles from the
sea. As an example of the conduct at times of
3-2fi NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap x.
civilized people, I will here relate what had occurred
in. the Brass river very shortly before this period. A
white trader, then agent for an English house, had,
out of a mere freak, ordered a native who came on
board his ship one day to be seized and flogged.
This lad's father, however, was a man of consequence
on shore, and, on hearing of this outrage, he summoned
his friends, and in two large canoes attacked and
boarded the ship. The white Captain armed his
Kruboys with muskets, but they, unwilling to quarrel
with the natives, or to fight in a bad cause, gave way :
the captain then retreated towards his cabin, but just
as he was entering it, he was laid violent hands on,
in the scuffle had one of his thumbs nearly cut off,
was put into a canoe, taken ashore, and fastened to a
tree, where he was left for twelve hours, and the
natives said openly they would have killed him, but
that they feared a visit from an English man-of-war.
This same individual trained his Krumen to fight with
the Krumen of the other trading ships in the river,
and in short, endeavoured to carry on his trading by
brute force. Such transactions as these were formerly
of daily occurrence, but now fortunately they occur
but rarely ; but w^hat can be expected of native tribes,
who see before them, acted by so-called civilized men,
deeds which would disgrace a very savage ?
About nine o'clock a canoe from Brass came along-
side, bringing two black men, coopers, natives of
British Akra, who begged of me to take them away.
From their statement it appeared that they had been
CHAP. X.] I GtBO. 327
in the employ of the supercargo to whom I have
above alluded, but had been summarily dismissed by
him some eight or nine months previously, without
their wages being paid, and since they had been living
on shore in a very poor way, chiefly by the kindness of
the man who now brought them in his canoe. They
had on several occasions tried to get away from Brass,
by ships leaving, but their captain had always inter-
fered to prevent this, and the masters of vessels to
whom they had applied, unwilling to give offence to
the stronger party, or anxious to avoid any misunder-
standing, had invariably refused them. I examined
the men separately, and got the same story from each,
and their tale was confirmed by the native. I had no
jurisdiction, nor had I the means of inquiring into
the merits of their case ; however, it would not do to
leave the poor fellows to their fate. I therefore
resolved to look on them as distressed British sub-
jects, and determined to carry them to the nearest
English consulate, when I could hand them over to
the authorities. I paid the native for his kindness
in caring for them, that he might know that all white
men are not ungrateful brutes. This man told us
that the native name for Brass is Nimbe, but that by
Abo it is termed Itebu. Nimbe calls Oru, Ejo. The
Brass dialect differs but slightly from that of Oru,
Akassa is, he said, an Oru village. The Brass name
for the Nun is Akassa toro, for the Bio Bento,
Tuwon toro, for the San Nicolas, Kola toro, for
the New Kalabar river, Kalaba toro, for the Bonny,
328 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. x.
Okuloba toro, and for the Old Kalabar, Eflngi toro,
toro being water or a river. The Brass mark con-
sists of six short perpendicular incisions, between the
eye and the ear.
Of the measures employed as hygienic most were
of a general nature, the only more specific one being
the free use of quinine. The amount of sickness
was very little, so that, except with the scorbutic
cases. Dr. Hutchinson's really medical duties were
not onerous. Of the Europeans, the most exposed to
climatial influences, were Mr. Harcus, Mr. Guthrie,
Mr. May, and myself. Mr. Harcus was chiefly
exposed during the day, and suffered only from fre-
quent headaches from the eff'ects of the sun's rays.
Mr. Guthrie, besides undergoing daily an immense
amount of fatigue, slept regularly on deck, and never-
theless escaped entirely. Mr. May and I were ashore
whenever opportunities occurred, and as often by
night as by day ; we had frequently to land in
swamps and other unhealthy spots, yet Mr. May had
only one very short and not severe febrile attack. I,
in addition, always slept on deck, and was roused
regularly at twelve o'clock, and at three in the
morning, for the purpose of recording meteorological
observations, but while in the river, I had constant
health. I mention these circumstances to show, that
under proper precautions, Europeans may not only
live quietly, but even commit with impunity what,
some years ago, would have been considered as
terrible indiscretions.
CHAPTER XL
FERNANDO PO.
Most of us on board were more or less excited^
The white men were anxiously debating on how the
bar might turn out for our purpose of crossing it ;
the Sierra Leone people were rejoiced at leaving the
river in safety ; and the Kruboys were wild with
delight at the speedy prospect of seeing again their
homes and their wives. Everyone was early astir,
long before daylight, but even then we were, to our
great joy, able to satisfy ourselves that a slight land-
breeze was in existence. The tide was not yet
suitable, the flood running strongly, but at length
we weighed anchor for the last time, and steaming
slowly down, were off Palm Point at six o'clock, at
which time we could barely make out anything half-
a-mile from us. But there was no swell, no sound
of rushing breakers, and no signs of a south-westerly
breeze, all of which augm^ed well. By this time it
was about slack water, so we pushed forward at full
steam, and at a quarter to seven had crossed the
bar, without having encountered a single roller, and
never having had less than three fathoms water.
330 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xt.
Mr. Richards told me this was his eighth passage, and
he had never once before seen the water so smooth.
There are three passages across the Nun bar, one to
the westward, examined by Mr. Beecroft, which is
long and narrow, but deep ; one in the middle, which
is in every sense intermediate ; and an eastern one
broader, but with less water, which was the one by
which we left the river. For steamers it does not
matter much, but as the tide sweeps across them, it is
of consequence that sailing vessels should select the
one which allows of most room, as often when it is
most needed, just in the breakers, the breeze fails.
After having come out by the eastern passage, it is
necessary to keep along shore, towards Brass, for a
couple of miles. A light breeze sprung up from the
south-west, which filled our square-sail and helped us
along. We observed a sail, which was soon made out
to be a schooner at anchor, from which we saw a boat
putting off, and shortly afterwards Captain Robertson,
of the schooner " Mary," of Fernando Po, came on
board of us. He brought us a newspaper, an im-
mense treat to us, though it was some three months'
old, and it gave us an account of the early part of
the Russian war. This little vessel was bound from
Bonny to the Benin river, but had been retarded by
light winds, and a strong current running east-south-
east two knots. Nothing else occurred dm-ing the
day ; our provisions now consisted of yams and sar-
dines, and, although we had plenty of these, and
they were very good, some discontent showed itself,
CHAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 331
a few of our voyagers fancying themselves on the
verge of starvation. On the afternoon of the
7th November we were near Cape Bullen, so deco-
rating ourselves as far as our means would allow, we
steered into Clarence Cove, and firing a salute, which
was returned by Governor Lynslager's formidable
battery, we anchored at twenty minutes to six o'clock.
I at once landed, and going up to the Governor's,
who was also acting-consul, and Mr. Laird's agent,
I reported our arrival, and telling him that as my
connection with the " Pleiad " was now at an end,
I resigned all further charge over her, and requested
him to take the requisite steps for handing her over
to Mr. Taylor, or to whomsoever he thought proper,
which he at once undertook to do. I also delivered
over the two Akra men, whose case he undertook to
investigate, and to forward. The most pleasant por-
tion of our business yet remained, namely, getting
our letters, none of us having heard anything from
Em-ope later than the 24th of May. And singularly
enough, I believe, throughout the whole batch of cor-
respondence, not one of us received any disagreeable
news. The papers told us of the landing of the
allied troops in the Crimea, and of the glorious battle
of the Alma, so that we had plenty to occupy our
thoughts. Having now the means, I gave, on my
return on board, all hands a glass of grog, while the
Kruboys got the large drum to have a dance, and
celebrate, after their own fashion, their happy return.
Next morning I discharged Mr. Richards, Mr.
332 NAERATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xi.
Scott, and Simon Jonas, whom I had engaged at
Clarence. 1 then got as many of my things ashore
as possible, and locking up the remainder, took my
final leave of the little " Pleiad," on board of which
I had spent four eventful months. Mr. Crowther
took up his abode with a friend on shore, w^hile we
Were much indebted to the kind hospitality of the
Governor, and of Mr. Snape, who accommodated in
their comfortable houses, Mr. May, my assistant
Mr. Dalton, and myself, and where we kept clear
from the disputes and disagreements which daily
occurred on board of the steamer.
Our time at Clarence was spent in anything but
idleness, we had om' journals to write up, our instru-
ments and collections to pack for the voyage home,
and Mr. May had to make a clean copy of his chart,
and to go over many of his calculations. I had ex-
pected to find waiting for me further instructions as
to my procedure, but as none had arrived, I was left
to act according to the best of my judgment.
Among the residents at Clarence at that time w^as
Peppel, ex-King of Bonny, who was living there in a
somewhat anomalous condition. By various means
he had become very unpopular with his subjects,
which involved English traders in the river in such
difficulties, that the late Mr. Consul Beecroft had to
go to Bonny to endeavom- to settle matters. As a
precautionary measure, as threats of assassination
were openly talked of, he recommended King Peppel
to go over to Fernando Po, and with a httle persuasion
CHAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 333
got him on board H.M.S. "Antelope," by which
vessel he was, in February, 1854, conveyed to
Clarence. He had, however, been kept since, it is
said in accordance with orders from England, as a
kind of prisoner at large, of which he was well aware,
but against which he urgently remonstrated. The
very night of Mr. Beecroft's death, he tried to escape
by the " Bacchante " steamer, and he had since made
another attempt. He came and paid me a visit,
which I returned, and we soon became very friendly.
He is a tall, intelligent-looking person, but with a
rather cunning eye. He speaks English very fairly,
and can sustain a long conversation. His remarks
were extremely shrewd, and he avoided making any
very strong statements. He became King of Bonny
on the 9th of April, 1837, since which period his
name has become well-known along the coasts of the
Bight of Biafra, and his influence extended far into
the I'gbo country, reaching to Abo. Of course in the
accounts he gave me, he always put the best com-
plexion to all his proceedings, a version of things
which I afterwards had occasion greatly to modify.
His acquaintance with the English form of govern-
ment, and his general fund of information much sur-
prised me ; he knew the names and offices of all the
cabinet ministers, and often referred to WelHngton and
to Napoleon. Of the latter he was a great admirer,
and alluding one day to the fate of that greatest of
generals and of politicians, he proceeded, parva commo-
ner e viagnis, to sketch a resemblance between his
3:i4 NARRATIVE OF AN EX PLOKING VOYAGE. [chap. xi.
own detention in Fernando Po, and that of the French
Emperor at St. Helena. " Why," said he in his
pecuHar way, and pointing to a print of Buonaparte,
" why your gubberment keep me here, I no do bad
hke he, I be free man, I be King." Whatever my
thoughts were I could only reply, that, were he injured,
doubtless before long, and as soon as government
knew accurately of his case, he would be fully com-
pensated, as the maxim of England was to dispense
even-handed justice to all. He exhibited a document
from the consul, stating that he had no authority for
considering him as a prisoner, and he likewise showed
me two letters or certificates, signed by two English
trading captains, who testified that, being present
w^hen Peppel left Bonny, he did so of his own free-
will and accord, and he wound up by observing that
our behaviour to him would lessen our influence
among the palm-oil tribes.
Peppel usually appears in European boots and
trousers, with a loose shirt as an external covering ;
in his left hand he carries a long silver-headed stick,
his right arm being useless, from an attack of hemi-
plegia or partial paralysis, induced, it is said, by
undue indulgence in strong drinks and the pleasures
of a Bonny table, and too great devotion to his
numerous wives and concubines. By an. agreement
with his people, they were to allow him while absent
at the rate of £300 a-year, and he said nearly
two years' arrears were due by our government of
the sum stipulated to be paid him by the treaty for
CHAP, XI.] FEKNANDO PO. 335
abolishing the slave-trade, which latter I understand
he has religiously adhered to. He gave me at
different times much information about Bonny,
and some specimens of the language, v^^hich will
appear in the Appendix. He said the first King
Peppel,* derived his title from selling pepper to
Em'opean traders, from which the article he dealt in
became his own designation, one letter, as is often
the case, being substituted for another. The revenue
derived of late by Peppel from the increased palm-
oil trade, must be little short of, if it does not equal,
that made in the palmiest days of the slave-trade.
His income from shipping dues and other sources,
I have heard reckoned, on sound authority, at from
£15,000 to £20,000 a-year. The Bonny people
claim an I'gbo descent. Their territory, which is not
very extensive, is by them named Ebane, whence
Bonny. By the I'gbos, it is pronounced Obane,
and by New Kalabar Ibane. The Bonny-town or
Grand Bonny-town of the English is correctly Oku-
loma, by Brass called Okuloba, for which I heard at
Bonny the followhig derivation. When people first
came to this place to build a town, they found it a
vast swamp, where bred numbers of a bird re-
sembling a curlew, which they called Okulo. After
settlers became numerous these birds deserted the
* " And then Pepprell, the King's brother, made us a discourse, &c."
" We had again a long discourse with the King, and Pepprell his brother,
concerning the rates of our goods and his customs. This Pepprell being
a sharp blade, and a mighty talking Plack, &c." See Barbot's Voyage to
New Calabar, 1699, in Churchill's Voyages and Travels, vol. v. p. 559.
330 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chai- xi.
spot, vvhence they said Okuloma, i.e., the curlews fly
away. Peppel said that Abo men often called Bonny
Osimini-ku, but I have myself at Abo heard of
Okuloma. New Kalabar is in Bonny named Kara-
bari, but is also known as Bom ; the language
differs somewhat from the Ebane, but not so much as
to prevent people of the one tribe from understanding
those of the other. Oru is known at Bonny as Ejo or
Eso. Bonny men talk of Abo as E'be and A'be, but
sometimes distinguish between Abo and Okurotumbi
in Oru, styling the one Abo'ba or Great Abo, and the
other Abo'nta or Little Abo, so that Lander was not
so far wrong about " Little Eboe " after all. Bonny
people do not make their own canoes, but purchase
them from the Bassa people in Oru. Much palm-oil
is bought by Bonny traders in Ndoki, which place is
known to them as Mina. Among places mentioned
to me by Peppel as known to himself were Ndeli,
U'zuzu, Ikpofia, Egane, and A'bua, these being
written according to his pronunciation. Ndoki,
Ngsva, and parts of Isuama and E'lugu, can, he stated,
be reached by canoe. He also said that A'ro, to
which his people make pilgrimages as well as the Lgbos,
is from four to five days' journey from Bonny-town.
In Bonny no national mark is employed, but in New
Kalabar some mark along the forehead over the eyes
and shave parts of the head. Between Bonny and
New Kalabar is a small territory named Okrika, in-
habited by a separate tribe, but tributary to Bonny.
The people from this place never trade directly with
cuAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 337
white men, but are obliged to sell their articles either
to New Kalabar or Bonny traders ; they spend much
of their time in canoes, and are great fishermen.
Beyond New Kalabar are people living on the river
Sombreiro, who speak a dialect nearly approaching to
that of New Kalabar, to which place they bring palm-
oil. To the eastward of Bonny are the Ad6ni or
Andoni people living on the river Andoni or St. Do-
mingo. About 1848 or 1849, there was a war
between Bonny and Adoni, which ended in the sub-
jugation of the latter. The religion of all these places
is fetish paganism, the dju-dju or sacred object of
Bonny being the Iguana, of Okrika the pigeon, and
of New Kalabar the shark. Further along, at Brass
or Nimbe the snake is the dju-dju. At Bonny the
week of seven days has for some time been adopted,
but formerly, king Peppel informed me, the week was
one of eight days, of which he gave me the names
of five, but he had forgotten the others. At Bonny
and in that neighbourhood blue balf or calico is used
as mourning, at the Benin river and in that direction
white baflp is similarly employed, while at Brass both
are worn. Old Kalabar is known at Bonny as well
as in I'gbo as Efiki, and at A'ro they talk of a people
living near or among the E'fik, whom they call Mon
or Mong. Old Kalabar is not known at all at Abo.
At Bonny yams are not cultivated, for home use a
few are got from Okrika, but the greatest supply is
from the market at Ogobendo ; the ships again have
to send for this valuable tuber to Fernando Po.
338 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xi.
Chiefly from Mr. Siiape, who has spent some years
ill the Rio Formoso, I got much information about
the countries near BIni (Benin). In many old maps
this large and important town is named Oedo, evidently
the same word as we met with in the district called
Ado or Edd, opposite Igara, and derived from the
same source. The present king is a young man, and
succeeded to the throne about 1850, at which time
several hundred slaves were killed, and the anniver-
sary of his father's death is yet annually observed in
the same sanguinary manner. This king is favour-
able to the English, and does what he can to promote
trade ; of articles brought from the interior to Bini,
part goes to Lagos, part to the ships in the Rio
Formoso. Bini is a good day's journey distant from
the town of Gato or Agato, which is situated up a
long, narrow creek, communicating with the river.
It was lately visited by an English trader, who was
kindly received. Agato is the place where Belzoni
breathed his last, and though it is usually said that
he died of dysentery, yet the natives who remember
him all assert that he was poisoned, and that the
person who administered the poison to him is stiU
alive. This person is the head dju-dju man, or high-
priest of Bini ; he resides at Agato, and is a great
rogue. He is well-known to the English by the
name of Parsons, and it is thought that Belzoni's
papers are yet in his possession, as he is not known
to have destroyed them — he will not part with them
to any of the white traders, but it is said that he
CHAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 339
would deliver them to any stranger coming especially
for them. The people in the country below and near
Agato use a mark, thus ••', on the temples, opposite
each eye. Up the Rio Formoso, towards the Abo
territory, live a people speaking a distinct language,
who bring palm-oil to the trading ships, and who are
called Sobo, being tributary to Bini. A district to
the westward of the lower part of the river, near its
mouth, is called Tshekeri, but which is known in Abo
as Iwine, which name they commonly apply to all
traders from the Eini countries. In Nimbe Tshekeri
is called " Senama." The town of Tshekeri, up a
short creek, formerly a place of some importance, is
now nearly deserted. The son of one of the chiefs of
this place, whose name was Wako, built a town up
another creek, nearer to the sea, and this he called
Jakwa. On his death, two of his sons, who were
born within a few hours of each other, disputed the
succession, Djeri, having the larger party, retained
Jakwa, while his brother, Hefia, moved to another
creek near the channel leading to Lagos, and there
founded another town, which Avas termed Jakwatia,
and which is now nearly as large as Jakwa. The
Tshekeri people bring much oil for sale, but very
little of it is the produce of their own country.
Nearer to the north-west point the inhabitants differ,
and are probably connected with Ijebus, and along
the coast are many groups of huts of this people. To
the east and south-east of the Rio Tormoso, is the
large district of Wari, inhabited by tribes of the Ejo,
z 2
340 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap xi.
or Orii. Their chief town, or AVari, mentioned by
older writers as Owarree, was visited by Mr. Beecroft,
and is about a day and a half's journey by canoe
from the anchorage. A large branch of the river,
about three-quarters of a mile broad at its junction,
leads to this town. W4ri, though semi-independent,
yet pays some tribute to Bini. The late King Te, of
Wari, had two sons, born so nearly at the same time,
that each contests for priority, and, on the death of
their father, contended for the throne. Neither of
them are as yet of age, and Te's principal wife, named
DoUa, acts as Regent, and the one son resides at
Wari, and the other at Bateri, nearer the Rio Formoso.
Up the various creeks and branches, the waters are
infested by a wild, piratical set, who live almost
entirely iu their canoes, and who subsist by plunder-
ing traders while on their way to markets, often
adding murder to their other crimes. They extend
their ravages from the Brass river on the one side, as
far as the Lagos creek on the other, and in the Rio
Formoso they are known to the English as Jo-men,
evidently a corruption of Ejo. A few years ago
they became so troublesome, and did so much injury
by interrupting trade, that the masters and super-
cargoes in the river, after having applied to the consul
for advice and interference, to which no reply was
received, fitted out some armed canoes for the pur-
pose of chastising these river pirates, which they
managed to effect. Salt from the lagoons, near
Tshekeri, is transported in considerable quantity into
CHAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 341
the interior ; and another commercial article is a kind
of wood named " salt wood," which grows on the
borders of the salt, swampy creeks; this is annually cut
and burnt, and the residue, which forms a semi-vitrified
looking mass, is sold as salt.
Being anxious to learn a little of the singular
people who inhabit Feraando Po, a little excursion
was planned to go to one of their towns, which had
not been visited by white men for several years.
Accordingly a party, including Mr. Crowther, Mr,
Snape, and myself, with Mr. Richards as our inter*
preter, started one morning by boat from Goderich
Bay. We pulled about a couple of miles along shore,
and then landing, proceeded on foot. Heavy rain
had fallen during the previous night, leaving the
ground very soft and muddy. Our way was by a
narrow foot-path, with barely room for single file, up
a considerable ascent ; and as we walked along we
sank nearly ankle-deep every step we took, rendering
the labour of progression very great. We had always
seen the Fernandians coming into Clarence with long
sticks in their hands, the use of which we could not
make out until to-day, when we found it almost
impossible to proceed, or to avoid tumbling, without
such sticks. On either side of us was thick forest
— palm-trees being very numerous. Many native
huts for the manufactm'e of palm-oil were seen, and
bunches of the fruit were hanging in the sun, which is
the usual practice before proceeding to boil them.
Each native marks his own tree, though sometimes one
343 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING YOYAGE. [chap. xt.
plant may have several owners, who work in concert.
We observed many palms which had not been touched
for years, and were now entirely covered with climbers.
The oil-palms are sought after partly for the exuded
juice, or palm-Avine, and partly for the fruit, which is
eaten as food, as w^ell as used for the manufacture of
oil. 1 saw many most interesting plants, of which I
intended to have secured specimens during our
return ; among others one known as " Malaghetta,"
probably the "Bastard Malaghetta." AVhen about
three-fourths of om' w^ay, our path was crossed by a
gushing mountain-stream, over which w^e passed on
large stepping-stones, when, resting for a few minutes,
we were refreshed by a draught of most deliciously
cold water, one of the highest treats in tropical
regions, A little farther on and we reached an
elevated plateau, where the ground had been partially
cleared, and where was situated the town of Basipu,
of which we had been in quest. The distance from
the landing-place was only three miles, but the
shocking state of the road made it appear, to judge
at least from the fatio-ue it occasioned, as fullv double.
As I mentioned, no European had been at Basipu for
several years, on account of a quarrel with the natives,
so that the first people who met us were alarmed, and
rushed away from us ; but on w^alking into the toAvn
Mr. Richards was recognized, and so we all became
good friends. We went into the hut of the chief, and
there sat down. It was a sorry afi'air, but it sheltered
us from the sun, which was now getting very power-
cn\p. XT.] FERNANDO PO. 843
ful. The huts are all oblong, and constructed in an
exceedingly slim manner, consisting of upright sticks,
with the intervening spaces badly closed, and with a
very poor thatch, so that in wet weather they can-
not afford much shelter. The chief was very civil
to us, but not at all communicative, and though
much pressed, would not tell me any of the tradi-
tions of his race, or what was their native name.
He said if I wished to know more of them, that he
would some day call a meeting of chiefs of villages,
and ask them to take the matter into consideration.
The Fernandians are commonly known by the title
of Bicbl, which, however, is only taken from their
mode of address, Biibi meaning friend. Their true
appellation has been said to be Adiya (Adeeyah),*
but on asking the chief if this were correct, he said
it was not, but that Adiya was the name they gave
either to Clarence, or to the white people residing in
it. I had previously asked Mr. Richards and some
others at Clarence, who spoke the Femandian language
fluently, and who had been much among the people,
if they knew the term Adiya, but not one of them
knew it. I therefore am inclined to hold, that for
the present the native designation of the Fernandians
must be considered as doubtful. Their language
* The chief authority for this name is Dr. Thomson, R.N., in one of
the volumes of the Philological Ti-ansactions ; and also in the second volume
of the Narrative of the Niger Expedition of 1841. In a communication
with which I have been kindly favoured by this gentleman, he has stated his
reasons for considering Adiya as authentic, and they are certainly of
considerable weight. But further enquiry is necessary to decide the
matter.
344 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xi.
is quite peculiar, and its affinities, though with some
South African tongues, are not very decided. These
people in appearance are unlike any other tribes I
have met with, being in person rarely above the middle
stature, and of a spare frame. In colour they are
seldom black, but they delight in staining their skins
of a brick-red. Their habiliments are extremely
scanty, and it is said, that in the more remote parts
of the island they go about unclad. Their appear-
ance is much more savage than their behaviour, as
they are a mild and inoffensive race. Their chiefs
and headmen wear large, wide, rudely-fashioned
grass-hats, ornamented with feathers ; round the
wrists are numerous beads, as also strings of small
shells, which form their currency, and which are also
worn round the leg, below the knee, so that a man
carries about all his riches along with him. Some rude
ornaments are suspended round the waist, while in-
serted under a piece of string encircling the upper
left arm, is carried an unsheathed knife, and though
the blade is laid along the arm, and is in close con-
tact with the skin, accidents are said never to occur.
Similarly secured on the upper right arm is often
seen a short clay-pipe, both sexes being passionately
fond of smoking ; the women, however, often carry
about their pipes in their hair. A most singular
custom prevails of dressing the hair with red clay
and palm-oil, until it becomes one entire, solid mass,
with an irregular or nodulated surface. On certain
festivals or if they have had any strange dream, they
onAP. XT.] FERNANDO PO. 345
frequently appear witli the face covered with chalk,
or with some yellow powder. I saw a newly-married
couple, and, according to the customs of the race, the
bride must remain in her hut for twelve months, or
for longer if she does not then evidence her intention
of being fruitful and multiplying. Their faces are
much tatooed, but I regret not having at the time
taken a description of the markings ; different mark-
ings are employed in different localities, and though
their island is small, several very distinct dialects are
spoken in the various districts. The total popula-
tion of Ternando Po is estimated at from 20,000 to
30,000. Near Clarence they bring in palm-oil, yams,
bananas, plantains, fowls, &c., which they barter for
cloth, tobacco, hardware, and guns. Those near the
sea have good canoes, and are great fishermen. They
are said to be quick at learning anything, and those
in the neighbourhood of Clarence speak a little
English. Mr. Crowther asked the chief if his people
would allow their children to come to school and be
taught ; to which he replied, " Certainly, if it did
not make them become idle." Formerly missionaries
were labouring among them, and had several stations
around their villages ; but since Spain has reclaimed
the island, their endeavours have been prohibited, as
that philanthropic country has, with what good taste
or feeling towards the Fernandians I leave it to the
judgment of my readers, restricted missionary efforts
strictly to the town of Clarence. During our visit
Mr. Snape and I became unwell, with a febrile
3 10 NARRATIVR OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [crap xi.
accession. Mr. Snapc bad long been subject to ague,
but it was my first attack, and I have no doubt
"whatever that I imbibed the malaria poison the morn-
ing I visited Angiama, thus showing a period of ten
days as the duration of incubation of the disease. I
managed, though with difficulty, to retrace my steps,
and being well sheltered from the sun by the trees
arching over the pathway, at length reached our boat.
I was not at all sorry when I found myself back at
Clarence, only regretting that I had been unable to
secure my promised botanical specimens, among
which was a species of Kola.
Among the persons with whom I had conversa-
tions, was a Baiori man, from whom I got specimens
of his native language, which with a few Bati words
will appear in the Appendix. I also found among
the residents at Clarence, a native of a country
named Yala, called by the I'gbo Amani, while the
inhabitants they term Olalipide. Amani is derived
from the town of Am an, on the west side of the
Cross river, a little beyond Akuna-kuna ; it is on the
borders of Yala, but not in it ; Yala is often called
Atam, its language resembles the Tgbo. The town
of Omun is called by the Yalas, Okre, but by its
own people Idraga. To the northward of Yala is a
country named Aganyi, and the inhabitants are in
Yala known as A'kpa. Isuaraa is in Yala termed
Iswama, and Isielu is called Isiolu. During the dry
season the Cross river at Yala is easily fordable,
the water being not more than from eighteen to
CHAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 847
twenty -four inches in depth. Many people from the
Cameroons and from Bimbia reside at Clarence ; the
former are the Diwalla, and of late they have adopted
a mark much resembling that of the Krumen.
During our stay at Clarence the weather varied
much, sometimes heavy rain and violent tornadoes,
at others hot, burning weather, while just before our
departure, symptoms of the " smokes " began to
show themselves. This fine island is at present
almost running to waste, its capabilities disregarded^
and its soil uncultivated, and it is sad to think, that
under the rule of its present possessors no improve-
ment is likely to take place. How our government
was ever advised to so mad an action as to give up
Fernando Po, I cannot imagine ; but it is said on the
Coast, that among other influences at work, was the
fear of those interested in Sierra Leone, who dreading
a rival, thus sacrificed public interest to private
jealousy. Whenever trade is established by the Kwora
with Central Africa, as must happen ere long, the
value of this despised place will then be more easily
estimated. Situated within a convenient distance
of the mouths of the rivers, with good harbours, and
easy of access, it must become the grand depot of
trade for the Bight of Biafra, and a great emporium
of commerce. Comparatively healthy, too, compared
with the coast opposite, it will prove an excellent
station for sick and for convalescents, as by means
of the mountain any desirable climate may be com-
manded. Clarence is finely placed on a height
348 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xr.
upwards of a hundred feet above the sea, with a
gentle slope which would permit of an easy drainage,
with fine harbours on either side of it, where boats
may land without trouble all the year round, with
ample space for commodious storehouses along the
beach, and withal with a good tropical climate.
Behind it is every variety of hill and dale, and thou-
sands upon thousands of acres of a rich fertile soil.
The small yams of North-west Bay are considered as
the finest in Africa, nor are the much larger ones of
Melville Bay at all to be despised. Many hundred
tons of palm-oil and palm-kernel-oil might annually
be produced, and the forests teem with excellent
timber. Such an island would be considered an
acquisition anywhere, but situated as it is, it must
be looked on as destined by Providence to play a very
important part in the great work of African Rege-
neration. Clarence is just now but indifferently
supplied with provisions, as the demand is not
sufficient to raise an adequate supply. A curious
epidemic annually commits ravages among the do-
mestic fowls, ducks, and turkeys, numbers of which
die during November and December, but I am not
aware that this disease is general throughout the
island. In the neighbourhood of Clarence finely
flavoured oranges and limes grow in abundance, pa-
paws are numerous, and a solitary bread-fruit tree
seemed to be progressing favourably. We remained
at Clarence three weeks, and on every Sunday Mr.
Crowther performed Divine Service in a large and
CHAP. XI.] FERNANDO PO. 349
commodious house, built by the late Mr. Beecroft,*
but now belonging to Governor Lynslager. A large
and very attentive congregation regularly assembled,
the numbers varying from 100 to 150. The mis-
sionaries resident at Clarence are of the Baptist
persuasion, but one of them now remains nearly
constantly at Bimbia and the Cameroons, where
he has a printing press, and where he prints works
in the Diwalla language. This excellent gentleman
had for many years to divide his attention between
Clarence and the Cameroons, and was in the constant
habit of crossing from the one place to the other in
an open boat.f
* I omitted previously to note that Mr. Beecroft's death took place at
Clarence on the 10th of June, 1854.
+ Intelligence has just (May 7th) reached this country that a Spanish
colonizing party, including among others fifty priests, has left Vera Cruz
for Fernando Po. This, if correct, is greatly to be regretted, as we are
awai-e, fx'om past experience, that expeditions setting forth under such
auspices, are much more likely to be productive of harm than of good. It
is a great pity that this fine island and its interesting inhabitants cannot
be placed under the guidance of persons of more enlightened tendencies
and more practical views.
CHAPTER XIL
THE VOYAGE HOME.
On Sunday, the 26tli of November, while we were
attending evening service, the " Bacchante," Captain
Dring, arrived from England, bringing us fresh supplies
of letters and of news. All our effects being shipped,
we took our leave of Governor Lynslager, and our
other kind and hospitable friends who had rendered
our stay so comfortable and so pleasant, and sailed
from Clarence Cove at half-past eleven on the night
of the 28th. The " Pleiad " was to follow the next
day, under the charge of the chief mate of the
*' Bacchante," who was put on board her for that
purpose. The next day om- pilot ran us aground in
the mouth of the Cameroons river, so that we had to
send the mails up by boat some dozen miles while
we were getting afloat again. On the afternoon of
the 1st of December, we got to Duke Town in Old
Kalabar river, and in the evening I went on shore
and called on Mr. Anderson, the resident missionary,
whose acquaintance I had made when here on a
former occasion. On inquiring about the place called
Egbo-shari, this gentleman informed me that its I'gbo
CUAP. XII. J THE VOYAGE HOME. 351
name is Umenyi, while the E'fik call it " Ibibio."
From this place the E'fik derive their origin. The
native name for Duke Town is Atakpa. The E'fik
are emigrants, the land on which they are settled
belonging to the Kwa people, whom they style
Abakpa, and to whom they yet pay tribute. The
Kwa people are quite distinct, and speak a totally
different language ; their country extends far inland,
and they bring some very good oil to market. I
could not ascertain their native name, but one desig-
nation is A'kwa, and from a letter I received a few
months ago from the Rev. W. Thomson, I find that
from the interior of their country are brought long
swords, and other articles, of very superior workman-
ship, and all of native iron. Some of this tribe live
on the west side of the mouth of the river, and trade
both at Duke Town and at Bonny. People from a
tribe named Mbriikim come to E'fik occasionally to
trade. They pass through the Kwa country, and the
journey from their own land, which they say is near
the Arabs, occupies from two to three months. The
E'fik mark was formerly the same as that used by
some of the I'gbos, but more recently they have
adopted another, viz., three round spots, each about
the size of a pea, on their temple, opposite the eye.
Moko people do not come to the E'fik, they are
believed to be connected with the Baioh. A case of
poisoning with the ordeal bean had occurred near
Duke Town on the Sunday previous to our arrival,
being the first instance for a long period, as (thanks
353 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. xii.
to the exertions of tlie missionaries) this shocking
custom has nearly fallen into entire disuse. Since
my visit to Old Kalabar many serious occurrences
have taken place. Old Town has very properly been
punished by order of the British Consul, for a
glaring disregard of treaty, by which the natives
undertook to give up human sacrifices ; and I under-
stand, also, that Mr. Anderson's comfortable residence
has been entirely destroyed by fire. Much as I may
differ from Mr. Anderson and his friends on many
minor points, and much as I may believe that their
usefulness would be increased, and their great designs
furthered by some modifications of their views, I can-
not but entertain a sincere respect for those who
truly and entirely devote themselves to the holy
end of opening the eyes of these benighted creatures,
who laying aside thoughts of home and of friends,
banish themselves from the w^orld, sacrificing comfort,
health, often life itself, in then* earnest endeavour to
supplant the horrid rites of Paganism by the mild,
the beautiful doctrines of enlightened Christianity.
Most of the palm-oil sold at Old Kalabdr is brought
from the markets in the I'gbo country, but some also
comes from districts to the eastward, and, as I have
mentioned, from Kwa. The trust system still prevails
in Old Kalabar, and when a man dies his debts are
held to expire with him, a not over-comfortable
practice for the white traders. In the morning.
Captain Lewis, wdiom I have before alluded to as
being so thoroughly acquainted with the pilotage of
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 353
tlie river, came down with us, rather to the disgust
of John Bull oiu' pilot for the rivers generally, but
much to the satisfaction of all else on board. He
told me that along the mouths of the rivers in the
Bight of Biafra, high water at full and change is
about six o'clock, which differs from Captain Den-
ham's statement, who fixes it at about four. At Duke-
town, it is about seven hours and thirty minutes, and
the rise with spring tides is seven feet, and fi'om
four to four-and-a-half feet with neaps. The water
begins to fall at the last quarter flood, and to rise at
the last quarter ebb. The Kwa river has three fathoms
water at its entrance, but it deepens and widens
further up. Across the bar of the Old Kalabar are
several good but winding passages. There is a very
dangerous knoll, with two fathoms of water on it,
about two miles rio;ht out to sea from the east end
of the breakers. It is very circumscribed, and the
sea does not break on it. A ship going in that
direction "will first have five fathoms, then two-and-a-
half, and before the lead can be hove again she will
strike.
The first river between the Old Kalabar and Bonny
is not named in any modern chart, but in some old
ones I find it marked as the Rio San Pedro, while at
Bonny I heard it called the Kantoro, and the water
in it is said to be beautifidly clear, which, if correct,
would indicate a difl'erent som'ce from all the other
streams, of which the water is extremely muddy,
almost opaque. Next to it is the Andoni or St. Do-
354 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
mingo river, witli about nine feet of water across the
bar, and which communicates with Bonny by a large
creek. We arrived at Bonny on the 3rd of December,
and as our boilers required some repair, did not leave
until the 5th. During this time, as I was much
annoyed with ague, I took up my quarters on board a
large and airy vessel, in which Mr. Glanville, one
of my fellow-passengers in the " Forerunner," was
carrying on an extensive and lucrative trade. Poor
fellow, by one of the last mails, I have heard of his
death, which occurred in October last, though when
I left him he looked strong, healthy, and acclimatized.
He took me ashore to Okuloma or Bonny-town,
where I met all the grandees of the place. I was
introduced to theKingDappa, a heavy, unintellectual
looking man, and had the honour of drinking some
bitter ale with him. I also visited A'ni Peppel, a
shrewd, but rather too influential man, who was
beginnino; to be troublesome, and who insisted on
my drinking some palm-wine with him. I saw also
King Peppel's first Avife, the legitimate Queen of
Bonny, who is of a pale copper colour, and was then
living in a very poor way. Diu-ing the war with
Andoni, about 1848, the Bonny people brought
many of the bodies of their enemies home with them,
for the pm^pose of eating them, and some Europeans,
one of whom was my informant, went ashore, and
actually with their own hands rolled several casks
filled with human flesh into the sea. There is a
communication by creeks with the district to the
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 355
westward where the Kwa people Hve, as they bring
much oil to Bonny, and they take readily as money,
a bad or inferior kind of Manilla (the cmTency of
Bonny), which will not go elsewhere. I was anxious
to go over to New Kalabar, but was too unwell to
attempt it, and was therefore disappointed in getting
much information about this people. Their King,
Amakri, had a year previously been visited by Captain
Macdonald of H.M.S. "Eerret," and made to deliver
up a number of doubloons he had received from a
slaving ship. The people differ in appearance and
in manner from those of Bonny. In New Kalabar
circumcision is universal, in Bonny it is only prac-
tised on slaves. In Bonny the breasts of the women
very soon become loose, flaccid, and pendulous, while
in New Kalabar they keep plump and firm ; the
men, too, of New Kalabar are more determined and
warlike. The trust system has been abohshed, with
much advantage, in New Kalabar, but in Bonny it
still hangs like a millstone round the necks of the
supercargoes. Among others whom I met, were
Captain Edward Wyllie, a well-known trader, shrewd,
successful, and much respected, and Captain Witt, a
most intelligent man, who seemed better acquainted
with the resources of the country, and with the wants
and requirements of trade, than any one whom I saw
in the Bights. At Bonny everything seemed to go
on with greater regularity and with more smooth-
ness than elsewhere, and this can only be accounted
for by the English traders acting so far in concert.
A A 2
356 NAREATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xir.
A commercial or mercantile association was, by the
exertions of Captain Witt and others, formed, the
members being the chief white and black traders in
the place, and the chair is occupied by the white
supercargoes in monthly rotation. All disputes are
brought before this court, the merits of opponents
are determined, and with the consent of the King,
fines are levied on defaulters. If any one refuses
to submit to the decision of the court, or ignores its
jurisdiction, he is tabooed, and no one trades with
him. The natives stand in much awe of it, and
readily pay their debts when threatened with it. A
new court-house of brick is being erected, the former
one of wood being old and crumbling. Here every
Sunday the people assemble from the ships, while the
church-service is read by one of the number. They
have a code of rules for their guidance, by which all
men must be off the beach by a certain hour, and
no trading or work is permitted, as a general rule,
on Sundays. Mr. Glanville told me that he had once
gone by boat, through the creeks, to Nimbe or Brass-
town, and that he found abundant water. The
currency of Bonny is in Manillas, small horse-shoe-
shaped pieces of copper, but accounts are reckoned
in bars. Every river has its own mode of reckoning.
Bonny counts in bars, equal to about sevenpence
each. Benin river employs prawns, one being about
fourpence. In Old Kalabar, coppers are used,
one copper being about fourpence halfpenny, and
in the Cameroon river they reckon by krus, which
CHAP, sii.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 357
are a measure, one ki'u being properly twelve gallons,
but often twelve-and-a-half or thirteen. In the
Cameroon river and Bimbia, imperial measure is
employed, but in the other rivers old wine measure.
A matchet or large knife is about sixpence halfpenny
in all these places. I inquired about King Peppel,
and from what I heard, I came to the conclusion,
that though treated perhaps not according to strict
justice, yet he was well away from the place. He
had become exceedingly cruel and tyrannical, had
with his own hands shot one of his wives who had
displeased him, and had inveigled a headman, named
Manilla Peppel, who was obnoxious to him, into his
house, and had him seized and murdered ; and finally
he had, for no reason but to gratify his own ambition,
nearly involved Bonny in a war with New Kalabar.
At Bonny since my visit there have been great dis-
turbances. Dappa the King died suddenly, and some
one spread a report of poison, which roused party
strife to a great extent. All trade was stopped, and
fighting was daily going on, when at last 300 of King
Peppel's supporters blew themselves up with gun-
powder, and I believe since this awful tragedy that
matters have been more peaceable.
At Lagos we parted with Mr. Crowther, who
returned to Abbeokuta, to resume those labours
which have been so simply, yet so charmingly
described by Miss Tucker. Since that time Mr.
Crowther has left Abbeokuta and taken up his abode
at Lagos, a very important, but less pleasant station.
358 :NAERATIVE of an exploring voyage. [chap. XII.
It was with a feeling almost of regret that I separated
from this excellent and upright clergyman, who by
his amiability, and the unostentatious yet conscientious
manner in which he performed his duties, had en-
deared himself to all on board the " Pleiad." Per-
sonally I w^as greatly indebted to him for his sound
advice and ready assistance, both ever ready when
required. To my mind he typically represents the
true African missionary, and were there only plenty
of ]\lr. Crowthers, the work of regeneration and im-
provement would doubtless progress, for it is to the
efforts of such single-minded, yet earnest and sensible
men, that w^e must humanly trust for success. At
Lagos we were joined by the Bishop of Sierra Leone
and Archdeacon Graf, returning from a visitation to
the missionary stations in the Yoruba country ; the
latter gentleman was so exceedingly ill that he had to
be lifted on board, and wdien I first saw him I
entertained great fears for his ultimate recovery.
Bishop Vidal's widely spread diocese extended several
thousand miles, entailing a responsibility and an
amount of labour which would have been undertaken
by none, but those like him, who with great, but quiet
energy, could throw their whole heart and soul into
the business.
Lagos is, by the Portuguese, often called Onin, but
by the natives is styled E'ko. It is inhabited by the
E'gba tribe of Yorubans, but the population is much
mixed, and the language spoken extremely corrupt.
The word Yoruba (Yo-ru-ba) means " I go meet," and
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 359
it comprehends numerous tribes speaking distinct
dialects of one common language. The Muhammadan
population of Yoruba congregates chiefly around the
large city of Ilorin, and it is there that the language is
spoken in its greatest purity. The Yoruba name for
Borgu, a country to the northward, near the Kwora,
is Ibarba. To the westward of Lagos, along the
coast stands the town of Badagry, the name most
probably corrupted from Agbada agi, or from the
Yoruban Agbadaylgi. Not far from the site of
Badagry, in former times, a man named Agbada had
a farm, and people when asked where they were
going used to reply " Agbada agi," i.e. " to Agbada's
farm," and this, by process of corruption, gradually
assumed its present form of Badagry. Near to this
place the Portuguese had a small settlement, named,
after the owner of the spot, A'kpa. But this, not
being near the sea, became inconvenient, so that they
inquired after a more suitable locality, and hearing of
Agbada's farm, which was close to the water, they
established themselves there. A slave-ship, believed
to have been French, was wrecked off Agbada agi, and
as, according to custom, the slaves could not be re-
shipped, they remained, and so increased the number of
inhabitants. After a period a dispute arose between the
coloured population and the Portuguese, which ended
in a general massacre of the latter, and since that time
the Portuguese have, fortunately, deserted Badagry.
The caboceers of the old slaving times still nomi-
nally exist, and when, in 1839, the first liberated
860 NARKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xir.
slaves from Sierra Leone arrived, after their unsuc-
cessful attempt to land at Lagos, they were put under
the charge of the English caboceer. Badagry has
sent out several small colonies on both sides, towards
Lagos, and also beyond Hwida. The original town
of A'kpa still stands, and gives its name to the
Badagry and Porto Nuovo district, and all the towns
still pay tribute to the King of A'kpa. Badagry is
also called Bakagu, but I do not know why, or by
whom. Porto Nuovo is by the natives termed Hag-
bonu, by the Yorubans Ajeshe, and it is also known
as Zem. The dialects of Badagry and Porto Nuovo
closely resemble each other. The dialects of Hwida
(Whydah) and of Popo are analogous, belonging to
the Dahomian language. The people of Popo were
originally from Dahomi proper, having been driven
out during some revolution. Popo is by the natives
termed Adeho, and by the Akra people Tom, which
is more correctly applied to the adjoining river.
Hwida is the native Grewhe, but by Dahomians is
called P6. It is a large and busy town, and is very
well supplied with provisions of all kinds. It is at
present the principal remaining seat of slave expor-
tation. An excellent place for vessels wishing to pro-
cure stock is Kita or Kwita, a little to the eastward of
Cape St. Paul, and where there is an English fort.
The inhabitants are Awona, and are somewhat allied
to Dahomians. By some tribes this place is named
Adja and Djinikofi.
At Lagos had also embarked the Rev. T. Freeman,
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 361.
the energetic and indefatigable Wesleyan missionary
of the Gold and Slave Coasts, who was now returning,
after a visit to the Yoruba country, to his head-quarters
at Cape Coast Castle. With him was another gentle-
man, resident at Akra, who had visited Ashanti, and
had been in Kumassi, the capital, which, he told me,
is now easily within the reach of Europeans. While
there he once saw sixty human beings sacrificed at
once, to the manes of some chief. The king is
reported to be immensely wealthy, and to possess
large quantities of gold ; the property of all his sub-
jects who die without heirs falls to him. The present
king is a sensible quiet man, but his heir is a restless
warlike person. The son is never the heir, the suc-
cession devolving on a nephew, namely, the eldest
sister's eldest son. The kingdom of Ashanti is more
powerful than that of Daliomi, and the customs and
rites arc fully as barbarous, if not more so. The
Fanti district extends from beyond Cape Coast Castle
to Akra, being a belt of country from fifty to eighty
miles in breadth. The language is aUied to the
Ashanti, and the people are the canoemen of this line
of coast, extending their migrations as far as Lagos.
Akwapim is to the north and north-east of Akra, and
Akim is north-east from Akwapim ; the language
is Otshi, allied to Ashanti. Asin is north and north-
east from Cape Coast Castle ; it is a small territory,
and the language resembles the Fanti.
I had several interesting conversations with Bishop
Vidal, who had been much pleased with his visit to
362 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xit.
Abbeokuta and the other stations, and was now full
of plans for future progress. An ardent and a distin-
guished philologist, no one could have been more
adapted for an African see, where every few miles
introduce the traveller to a new dialect, and where
most of the languages are yet unstudied and un-
written. To the Yoruba the Bishop had paid con-
siderable attention, and he had been inspecting and
revising translations of portions of the Scriptures into
that tongue. He told me that at Sierra Leone he
had several advanced Tgbo scholars, now ready for
ordination, and who would, were there a return of
these people to their native lands, accompany them as
teachers and missionaries. Aware that the Bishop
had been more lately studying the I'gbo, I had, partly
at Mr. Crowther's suggestion, taken with me Simon
Jonas, whom I had intended to show to the Bishop
as a man well versed in the principal I'gbo dialects,
and able to give much information towards framing
grammars or vocabularies. The Bishop, having had
some conversation with him, was much pleased with
his intelligence, and said that on reaching Sierra
Leone he would at once set the matter on foot. The
Bishop mentioned to me one day that he was inclined
to trace the word " barbarian " to the Berber tribe,
as he looked on their name as one of the most ancient in
Northern Africa, and of course known to the Egyptians,
from whom the Greeks borrowed both the word itself
and the idea connected with it; whence, again, it
passed into other European languages.
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 363
I must now refer to my little Mitslii boy, who,
since I last referred to him, had made rapid progress.
For some days after leaving Igbegbe he was rather
timid, but that soon passed away, and whenever he
saw me preparing to go ashore he always cleaned
himself and went with me, behaving himself in a very
quiet and orderly manner. On board he now and
then got into trifling scrapes with the men, and I had
once or twice to punish him, but he very soon quite
understood when he was doing wrong. Being of a
warm temper he used to break out into fits of passion,
when I used to place him in some quiet corner to
compose himself, and he remained there until he was
cool enough to come and make friends with me, and so
our differences always ended. He was fond of imitating
those whom he saw at work, and soon began to insist
on assisting the steward, and at Fernando Po always
did his best to wait at table. When he fii'st went to
sea he could not comprehend the motion of the ship,
and he felt rather uncomfortable, but he wonderfullv
soon became reconciled to it, and in the " Bacchante,"
even when she was rolling heavily, he learnt to carry
a dish from the galley to the saloon ; all these offices
were voluntary, as I made him do nothing except keep
himself clean, and he added to his other duties that
of superintending the feeding of my little dog, my
monkeys, and my parrot. He had a great love for
finery, and whenever he could collect a fcAV beads or
brass ornaments, he would string them and make
necklaces of them, and was greatly delighted when he
364 NABKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
got a bright-looking piece of calico, or a showy shirt.
The Bishop was greatly interested in him, and under-
took to superintend his education, and I was only too
glad to be able to leave him in such excellent hands.
Since I had last been at Akra sad havoc had been
committed, the inhabitants of Christianborg or Danish
Akra having rebelled, and having had in consequence
their town knocked to pieces, and many of them-
selves killed. The Akra territory is isolated, and
extends about twenty miles west, and about thirty-
five to forty miles east, from the town, and about
ten to twenty miles inland. The inhabitants are but
remotely connected with the adjoining races, and their
language, differing entirely from those of the neigh-
bouring tribes, has been considered by Mr. Hanson,
himself a native of Akra, to have affinities with that
of Tumbuktii. By the inhabitants, who call them-
selves Gha or Ga, Danish Akra is styled Osu, Dutch
Akra is called Kinka, while British Akra is the real
Akra. The Fanti use Nkran to designate the three
towns. In Akra are many Fanti, Ashanti, and Popo,
and all the natives speak Fanti as well as then* own
tongue. The women when at work are fond of
singing extemporaneous songs, suggested generally
by some passer-by, or by something occurring at the
moment, but they always sing in Fanti, and not
in Ga.
Owing to several of the boiler tubes leaking,
there was a great waste of coals, and by the time that
we arrived at Cape Coast Castle our fuel was nearly
CHAP, xir.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 365
expended. Fortunately at tliis place there is abund-
ance of a hard red wood, which burns capitally, and
of this we got a good supply. Here we received on
board Governor Hill, on his way to assume the chief
rule at Sierra Leone, one of the few instances in
Africa of the right man being put into the right
place. Among other passengers was a former fellow-
passenger of mine, the lady to whose marriage I
formerly alluded, and who was now with her
husband returning to England. Owing to the ex-
cessive leakage our red Avood burnt as fast as the
coals or faster, and as we had to put in at Cape
Palmas to land a number of Krumen, the opportunity
was taken of laying in a fresh stock. We had to
take in another supply of wood at the river Sestos,
where we w^re supplied with good, dry mangrove
billets. The coast from Cape Palmas, westward, is
known as the Kru coast, and is the native land of
that hardy and valuable race of men, who are the
true sailors of Western Africa. They comprise several
distinct tribes, which differ much among themselves,
though agreeing in general appearance, in manners,
and to a great extent in dialect. Two races are
always distinguished, the true Krumen and the
Pishmen, the latter perhaps the more available for
civilized purposes. Though in feature typically
negro, they are generally above middle stature, often
tall, beautifully proportioned, and with muscles
splendidly developed, enabling them to stand great
fatigue, and to perform feats of almost Herculean
366 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
strength. They begin to go to sea when young,
at first under a headman, until they advance in
years, &c., when they in turn become headmen, and
take charge of others. A Kruman works until he
can purchase a sufficient number of wives to look after
him, labour for him, and so keep him independent.
They are much attached to their country, and if long
away from it, pine extremely. When a vessel wants
Krumen she lies-to oflP one of their towns, and is in
a very short time surrounded by canoes, which are
brought off with the greatest neatness and dexterity
in the roughest weather. A crew is soon selected,
the pay arranged, a month's w^ages allowed in ad-
vance, and all is settled. The names of Krumen
being rather unpronounceable to a European mouth,
the practice is to give them other designations, often
exceedingly absurd, but still more easily remembered ;
thus, among a gang of them may be found, George,
Tom, Black Will, Yellow Will, Prince of Wales,
Prince Albert, Liverpool, Priday, Bottle-of-Beer,
Razor, Plat-nose, John Bull, &c. Krumen allow no
slavery among themselves ; their domestic slaves they
purchase from the Basa people, who procure them
from the interior. They will only buy children, and
are very kind to their slaves, who are often
hardly to be distinguished from free men. There
are only five true Kru towns along the coast from
Sinu to Piccaniny Kru, and to the eastward of this
live the Pishmen. The names of the Kru towns are
Little Kru, Settra Kru, Kru-bar, Nanna Krii, and
cnAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 367
King Will's Town, these being the names by which
they are known to navigators ; their native designa-
tions will appear afterwards. At Grand Sestos the
inhabitants are a kind of mixed breed, and are a very
troublesome set. The little Sess men are typical
Fishmen, and at the river Sestos is a Fish colony ;
many of the villages, too, along the Basa shore, are
inhabited by Fishmen, as the Basa people seldom
live near the coast. Near Cape Palmas the language
again slightly differs, but the people are more nearly
allied to the Fishmen. The native name of Cape
Palmas is " Baine-lu," and of the village near it
" Baine," the American settlement being Harper.
The natives call Fish-town "Wa," and Garraway
" Wiagbo." The river Sestos is " Nipua." The best
canoes along this part of the coast are made at Fish-
town. Basa, which is to the north-west of the Krii
coast, has a population with a different language,
and different marks. Krumen call themselves Krabo,
the singular being Krabe. They are all Heathens, be-
lieving in fetishes, and wearing greegrees or charms, a
very favourite one being the claw of a leopard. The
whole country, as far as Cape Palmas, is in connec-
tion with the Republic of Liberia, or as I heard it
explained in Monrovia, the " Republic claims ter-
ritorial jmisdiction," which right has been acquired
by purchase, by treaty, &c.
At Monrovia our detention was sufficiently long
to allow me to spend some time ashore, and through
the kindness and attention of Mr. Newnhara, our
368 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
Consul, I saw all that was to be seen. I met many
of the principal people of the place. With Monrovia
I was agreeably disappointed, for from previous
accounts I had expected to find a very so-so place,
rather on the decline than otherwise. But, on the
contrary, within two or three years new vigour seems
to have infused itself, and it is now progressing
favourably. Liberia has many natural advantages,
and its future success must depend principally on
good management, and sound policy. I was intro-
duced to the highly-intelligent and clear-headed
chief of the republic. President Roberts, under whose
rule, though some afPect to be sceptical about it, it
cannot be doubted that the country has advanced
greatly. When I was there it was said, that at the
next election he would be thrown out of the Presi-
dential chair, as some acts of his had not been
popular, he having been too prudent to please a
number of the people. I do not know whether this
has occurred, as I have seen no late Liberian intelli-
gence, but if so it is, I think, to be regretted. Two,
if not three, newspapers are published in Monrovia,
which I look upon as a healthy and promising sign.
The first appearance of a newspaper in a new country,
let the attempt be ever so feeble, or the contents
ever so paltry, is to be hailed with satisfaction, as
it marks an era in the literary intelligence and
public feeling of the place. Feeble commencements
often lead to important results, and let an unfettered
press once be introduced and it will firmly secure its
cnAi>. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 369
footing, and powerfully conduce to independence of
thought and action in its readers, besides tending to
create a community of feeling and of political action.
From what I have observed I have great faith in this
young republic, which will some day, when the worn-
out dynasties of savage tribes are forgotten, and when
advancing civilization and Christianity have smoothed*
the asperities of barbarous customs and bloody rites,
strongly assert the claims of the African to be ad-
mitted into the fellowship of his more fortunate
brethren, and assist him in substantiating his rights
as an integral, a free member of the vast human
family. As might be expected, the Liberians are
very American in their manners and mode of expres-
sion, but are, at the same time, anything but deficient
in Yankee shrewdness and energy.
On Sunday, the 17th of December, when at Cape
Palmas, Bishop Vidal, though rather indisposed, per-
formed Divine Service, but at the conclusion he felt
very faint and unwell, and had to retire early to rest.
His symptoms, at first rather anomalous and obscure,
soon indicated an attack of endemic fever of a
severe type. I then learnt, for the first time, that
whilst on his return from Abbeokuta, the Bishop had
unfortunately travelled by canoe late at night, along
a pestiferous mangrove creek near Lagos, as one of
his travelling companions had been desirous of
pushing on, and the good-natured, obliging Bishop
would ofier no obstacle on his part. He had then
evidently contracted the seeds of the baneful malaria,
370 NARKATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
which now had got the upper hand, and was telKng
heavily on a constitution not naturally strong. We
had to attend to him and nurse him in a confined
cabin, when much depended on his being in a free,
well- ventilated chamber. We thought of getting
him on deck, but the torrents of rain which were
daily falling, would have soaked through any cover-
ing we could have placed over him. In a few days
I became very apprehensive for him, his strength
was failing, and he was not able to contend against
this powerful and dangerous enemy. The Bishop
had a few months previously been in England, and
on his return to Africa had proceeded at once to
Yoruba ; his wife was to have followed him to Sierra
Leone by the mail-steamer next to the one in which
he sailed, and as she was in very delicate health, he
was naturally most anxious to hear of her safe aiTival.
But of this he was destined never to learn. When
at Monrovia the news reached the ship, but by that
time the Bishop was too insensible to comprehend
what was told him. In spite of all which could be
done, the disease could not be controlled, and on the
forenoon of Sunday, the 24th of December, he expired
quietly, and without a struggle. During the voyage
we had on board upwards of twenty cases of remittent
fever, but the only fatal one deprived us of one whom
we could ill spare. By the death of Bishop Vidal,
which took place ere he had well reached the prime
of life, Africa lost a firm and zealous friend, one never
weary of well-doing, and who never spared himself
CHAP. xiT.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 371
Avhere the thought that the welfare of her people was
concerned. Had he been longer spared, it cannot be
doubted but that signal advances would have taken
place in the right direction, and that the tenure of
the occupant of our first episcopal see in Western
Africa would have corresponded with an important
era in the history of its civilization. His ideas were
not those of a lordly prelate, suiTounded by pomp,
and seeking for worldly renown, but he was in very
deed a true Missionary Bishop, into whose hands had
been committed the care and guidance of an im-
portant yet struggling section of the church, and his
heartfelt desire was, that he might be enabled to
render the highest account of his stewardship. His
example is before us, and may his successors closely
follow in his footsteps. During a very brief ac-
quaintance I never met any one for whom I sooner
acquired a more sincere respect, and though it may
appear that I have dwelt rather long on his character,
and his untimely end, I feel that my feeble efforts are
quite inadequate to do justice to this Christian pre-
late. How truly it has been said, that " Man proposes
but God disposes." When at Lagos the Bishop joined
us in the full enjoyment of his ordinary health, while
Mr. Graf was considered to be in a highly critical
condition. Two short weeks had elapsed and the
strong had passed away from among us, while the sick
man walked with renewed strength. A death at sea
is always a sad occm-rence. In such a small com-
munity as on board ship all are acquaintances, and
B B 2
372 NAREATIVE OP AN EXPLOEING VOYAGE. [ciiap. xii.
the disappearance of one of the number leaves a sad
blank. No one can be ignorant of the solemn event ;
death in all its gloom, in all its horrors, is present to
each. It is felt that this dread enemy is in the closest
proximity, and none can tell who may be the next
victim.
The day following was Christmas, we could not
call it a merry one, yet as we were now nearing
Sierra Leone, the thought of meeting with former
acquaintances, and to many the prospect of getting
completed one half of a dreary voyage, somewhat
cheered our minds. During the afternoon a large
water-spout passed about a mile to the eastward of
us. Its appearance differed much from what is often
represented; there was no conical mass of water,
towering upwards from the surface of the ocean to
meet the descending torrent, but the spout poured
steadily down, throwing up, like a huge cascade,
thick clouds of spray. Its hollow centre was plain
to the naked eye, and it commenced to abate from
below upwards, the spout gradually contracting and
receding until it reached its cloudy origin.
On the 26th of December, we anchored at Sierra
Leone, our ensign flying ominously but half hoisted.
The melancholy tidings quickly spread, producing
throughout Freetown, where the deceased had been
greatly beloved, a profound sensation of grief. Two
years before, almost on the same day, Bishop Vidal
had landed from the " Propontis," full of hope, and
with a cheering, and inspiriting prospect before him.
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 373
Now how changed, his remains, a mere inanimate
mass of clay, were quietly removed to the shore,
in the afternoon to be interred, earth to earth, and
dust to dust, the spirit having fled to the God who
gave it.
Our voyage from Fernando Po had been extremely
protracted. By the time of our arrival at Siena
Leone, we ought, properly, to have been as far advanced
as Vera Cruz or Madeira. But the engines were very
defective, and sadly in need of repair. A survey was
held on them, directed by the chief engineer of
H.M.S. " Prometheus," when it was declared unsafe
to proceed further without extensive alterations.
This caused a delay of ten days, at which I cannot
say that I was altogether sorry, as I was able to turn
my time to some advantage among the repre-
sentatives of the numerous tribes who are to be
found in this vicinity. The hospitality of many
friends, who did their utmost to render our stay com-
fortable, enabled Mr. May and myself to pass the
time very pleasantly. To Mr. Heddle I stand
especially indebted ; his house was during the whole
time my home, a large and airy apartment was set
aside for me for writing in, and for receiving depu-
tations from the coloured population, and all my en-
quiries were most kindly furthered. To Mr. Thensted,
also, and to Mr. Mallard our warm thanks are due,
as owins to them our reminiscences of Sierra Leone
are of a very pleasant description.
It soon became known that the officers who had
374 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
been on the expedition up the "great river," had
returned, and many of the natives called, partly to
hear the news, partly to enquire what prospect there
was of another expedition, and of their being enabled
to return to their own countries. Ynst and foremost
there arrived a body, forty-three strong, from the
I'gbo race, who are in Freetown both numerous and
wealthy. This was followed by two from the N6pe
tribe, one of twenty, the other of thirty-eight indi-
viduals, a smaller one of nine from the I'gbira-Panda,
and one of nineteen from the Bassa (Kakanda), but
the crowning one was from the Hausa people, who
came in upon me to the number of seventy-two.
Smaller in appearance, but equally earnest, were the
deputations I received from the Kantiri (Bornu),
Kanembu, Djuku, Bonu, Ishabe, Oru, Igara, and
Ado. I have by me the lists of names of all these,
and I ascertained that they represented the desires of
from 1500 to 2000 persons. The tenor of conver-
sation was much the same with all ; they were most
desirous of re-visiting and settling in the lands of
their birth, carrying with them civilized habits and
Christian doctrines. They said they wished to have
with them teachers to instruct their children, as they
themselves had been instructed, and they concluded
by asking if the " land was good," meaning thereby
if peace prevailed, and if they would be well received.
I had also conversations with people from I'gbira-
Sima or I'gbira-Saima, Zaria, Zanfara, Maradi, Berber,
&c. Two men called on me, who came from a place
CHAP, xii.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 375
I had never before heard of, called " Grimsa," said to
be situated on a river named Moi, near a Pulo town,
and distant from Busa three to four days' journey.
They said, too, that the dialect spoken there was
peculiar. The Berber was from a town named
Wasa, and he spoke both his own tongue and Pulo.
Among the Hausas, was a man from Maradi (not
Mariadi), who had, as a mark, a long line along the
cheek, and he told me that in Gobir the mark is a
line across the lower part of the cheek, opposite the
mouth. In these two countries the language is
entirely Hausa, the religion is mixed, but chiefly
Pagan, and the people bear an intense hatred to the
Pulbe. I believe that now they are the only remain-
ing independent Hausa states. A man from Zaria
informed me that the last Hausa king of Zaria was
named Abdokaru, and that, when expelled by the
Pulo invasion, he fled to Kororofa ; he also set me
right about Gwandawa or Gbandawa, which I have
previously mentioned, and which is a district between
Zaria and Doma, the language and the mark agreeing
with the latter. Among others were a Djuku, from
Wakpa, a town west or south-west from Wukari, and
a Mandara, who had been taken in war by the Pulbe
of Adamawa. The mark of the latter somewhat
resembled that of Bornu, and consisted of some curved
lines along the angle of the jaw, and some fainter
ones along the cheek. Prom a Bagirmi man I learnt
that the languages of Bagirmi, of Wadai, and of
Bornu differ widely, and that the dialect, also, of
376 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. xit.
Musgo is quite distinct. The people of Loggone and
the Kanuri speak much ahke, and they resemble each
other in appearance and in marking. But in Bornu
the former is often pronounced Lokone. Among
my Kaniiri or Bornuese visitors, one was from
Zinder, one from Birni-Bornu or Biraim-Bornu,
and one from Minau (Minyo). They said that Kanem,
north of Lake Tsad or Tsadi, is a bush country, with
but few towns, and that the Buduma are short, very
black, and with thick legs. Kanuri is generally
applied to the people and the language, and Bornu to
the country, but one man said that strictly speaking
Kanuri referred to the districts towards Minau,
while to the southward and eastward was Bornti
proper. Zinder and Damagram have been united
into one province, the distance between these two
chief towns being from three to fom- days. From
Zinder to Katshina (pronounced Katshina or Katshna
by the Bornuese), it is eight or nine days. The
capital of Bornu is properly Kukawa, and not Kuka :
it was founded after the destruction, in a civil war,
of Birni-Bornu the former capital, from which it is
distant three or four days. Minau is often called
Manga, and Koyam is also named Kuyani. South-
west from Minau is a place named Karda. Many of
the people of Damergu are light-coloured ; they have
plenty of camels. Musgo is usually known in Bornu
as Mutshgo. The Bornuese buy guns and powder
in exchange for slaves, at a place called Zeila, where
caravans halt, and where much Arabic is spoken, and
CHAP, xn.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 377
where some people come with light-coloured skins,
whom the Bornuese term Wdsili, nearly equivalent to
the Hausa Batilri. The slaves are mostly girls and
boys, forming part of the tribute paid to Kukawa
from the provinces, whence they are sent across the
desert. These people brought with them a man from
a district named Absinawa, said to be past Damergu
and towards Zeila, where a different dialect was
spoken. Absinawa is the Hausa name, Kandin is
the BomuesCj while the native title is Imajaga. In
appearance he looked exactly like a Bornuese. The
Bornuese have much more marked negro features
than any of the nations to the westward of them, so
much so as to be sub-typical. In the Pulo province
of Daura the population is Hausa, Pulo, and Bor-
nuese, and in Hadeja, Hausa, and Pulo ; in the former
the natives are distinguished by two horizontal cuts
opposite the mouth.
As to the countries near the Kwora and Binue, I
gave these people all the information I could, but as
to whether they could be assisted in returning to these
regions, I could, of course, give no reply. All I
could do was to promise to represent their wishes in
England, and to endeavoiu" to promote them as far as
possible. And I sincerely trust that the small boon
they crave may be accorded to them, as in helping
them to settle in Central Africa, we should not be
merely benefitting them, but the entire continent, and
by thus introducing superior intelligence, we might,
possibly, be laying the germ of a new nation, to be
378 NARRATIVE OP AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [cuap. sir.
distinguished by its civilized rule and mild sway
contrasting most strongly with present tyranny and
oppression.
Sierra Leone is a thriving place, and of consider-
able commercial importance. The anchorage is safe,
commodious, of easy access, and with ordinary pre-
cautions should be quite healthy. The exports of
timber, ground-nuts, palm-nuts, palm-oil, pepper,
gum, ginger, cofPee, arrow-root, cam-wood, bees-wax
hides, ivory, &c., are of great value. The coflFee is
veiy good and well flavom'ed, the bean being small,
like that from Mocha. The quantity of ground-nuts
shipped annually is immense, being upwards of a mil-
lion bushels ; these are sent almost entirely to France,
where ground-nut oil is largely manufactured, a clear,
excellent article, which I cannot imagine being so
little valued in this country. Palm-nuts are now also
largely shipped, and are likewise sent to France,
where they appear more fully to appreciate the com-
mercial importance and economical value of these
oleaginous seeds than we do on this side the
channel. A new oil-yielding fruit is now coming
into repute, viz., that of the Carajpa Guineensis, the
product of which has long been in esteem among the
natives. Like the C. Guianensis, it bears an irregu-
larly triangular, chocolate-coloured nut, the kernel of
which, when bruised and heated, yields a fine vege-
table oil. A small specimen in my possession, is
nearly colourless, without smell, and even in the
tropical heat of Sierra Leone, was solid and firm,
CHAP. xTi.] THE VOYAGE HOME, 379
mucli more so than shea-butter. When better known
this must become a most important article of com-
merce. Of arrow-root from 50,000 to 60,000 pounds
are exported, it is of excellent quality, and is obtained
at Sierra Leone for about three-pence per pound.
Lastly, I may allude to hides, which are brought to
Freetown partly from inland districts, partly by
coasting vessels fi'om the neighbom*ing rivers ; of
these nearly 400,000 are every year sent principally
to markets in the United States.
Previous to the time of my visit the native popula*
lation had been much troubled with vexatious Cus-
toms regulations, or by the undue strictness with
which these had been carried out. I can better
illustrate my meaning by an example. Some Yoruba
men bought a little schooner to trade in with Lagos,
and accordingly shipped at Sierra Leone a cargo
which included amongst other things a quantity of
white rum. This article was, however, found un-
suitable, and on their return they wished to have it
exchanged for an equal quantity of coloured rum, to
ship which they got the usual permission at the
Custom-house, mentioning theu' reason for doing so.
They then landed the white rum, quite openly, pro-
bably thinking that as it was a mere exchange nothing
else was required. But some of the authorities heard
of their landing spirits without paying duty, on which
the whole was seized, and a heavy fine was inflicted.
Even little canoes coming down the river with fruit or
some other trifling produce, are ordered to be entered
380 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xii.
at the Custom-house, and any neglect of this injunc-
tion is punished by confiscation of the property.
Now in the case of these Yoruba men I cannot see
that there was any real breach of law. There may
have been an error in judgment, but they acted as
they did without any concealment, not in premedi^
tated violation of a Custom-house order, but according
to principles of simple fair dealing, which regulate
the transactions even of the most savage tribes. How
easy would it have been in this case to have pointed
out the error, or rather the informality committed, and
caution against a repetition, such a com^se would have
had infinitely more effect than the severest punish-
ment. And so in respect to the canoe-men, what
folly to expect people who know only perhaps a dozen
words of English, to comprehend the nature of such
regulations. It can hardly be expected that a Timne or
a Susu, or even a Mandenga or a Pulo, can be versed
in commercial jurisprudence or political economy, or
that they can understand the advanced routine of a
modem Custom-house. Justice, as well as common
sense, demand that before punishing a person for
violating a law of this nature, care be taken to explain
its nature, and to point out its necessity. An undue
observance of the very letter of the law in all cases,
except in crimes against society and public order,
produces not a stricter observance, but induces men to
find out means of evasion. And in a colony, or a
new country, where the people to be dealt with are
unciviUzed or ignorant, a most liberal mode of
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 381
administering law and dispensing justice is absolutely
requisite. Such a coui'se will secure the affections of
those governed, while an opposite method, as we
have too often seen, disgusts and alienates. Such
oppressive proceedings are, by this time, probably
modified or stopped, but they were in full force little
more than a year ago, at which time, also, any person
in the colony could be seized and lodged in prison,
without knowing what his offence was.
After the Bishop's death, Mr. Graf very kindly
undertook to look after my little Mitslii friend, so
accordingly I took him ashore and left him, after a
hearty cry, with no little difficulty at Mr. Graf's
house, and he has since been placed at school under
the care of the Rev. Edward Jones. There being no
person now to undertake the study of the Fgbo
language, Simon Jonas had to be sent back to
Fernando Po, but since that time the Rev. Mr. Venn,
on the part of the Church Missionary Society, has
directed Mr. Crowther to commence the task, and
by my last letters from that gentleman Simon Jonas
was with him at Lagos.
We sailed from Sierra Leone on the 6th of January,
having embarked several fresh passengers, among
whom was Captain Macdonald, R.N., whose constant
good humour, and unceasing fund of amusement,
tended greatly to allay the tedium of our lengthened
voyage.
Of the remaining part of the passage I have but
little to relate. One evening the usual phosphor-
382 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. xii.
escence of the sea mysteriously disappeared, but in its
place were seen rolling by the ship large luminous
balls, which I ascertained to be large Acalepha, but
where the usual more minute animals had stowed
themselves away for that night, I cannot imagine.
At Bathurst we were put to some inconvenience by
the behaviour of a Custom-house official, whose laws,
unchangeable as those of the Medes or Persians, were
not to be shaken by the arrival of a paltry mail-packet,
and whose colonial consequence far outweighed the
interests of the owners of the vessel, the proprietors
of the cargo, and the comfort of the passengers. We
spent several hours at Goree, where we were received
with true French politeness, after which we bade
adieu to the African coast.
Our incidents were very few, and of the usual
nature, meeting the huge " Great Britain " on her
outward voyage, and one dark night being very
nearly run into by a large brig. The Peak of
Teneriffe was now covered with snow, presenting a
very striking spectacle, but the climate at Vera
Cruz was not at all affected, the sun being nearly as
powerful there as it was at the Gambia. Not being in
quarantine we landed, visiting among other places the
Cathedral, and seeing the British ensigns kept there
as trophies. I do not know whether it was suspected
that we intended, as some silly midshipmen once did,
to try and abstract them, but while we were near
them, our conductor kept a most watchful eye on us,
and objected to our getting too close to them. The
CHAP. XII.] THE VOYAGE HOME. 383
weather, hitherto, had been so fine, that we felt the
first approach of Eui'opean winter very much. We
passed a very unpleasant night between Tenerifie and
Madeira, as, in addition to its blowing hard, three
seas met from opposite directions, producing in the
middle, just where we were, such a commotion as to
set everything on board not securely fixed in violent
motion ; while sleeping on a locker in the saloon, and
carefully guarding myself from a leak in the skylight
overhead, through which a stream poured down
within about eighteen inches of me, I had a narrow
escape from being squashed under a huge portmanteau
which had been stowed away right over my head, and
which now getting way on, seriously threatened my
personal comfort. Luckily, at this moment the ship
gave a roll in the right direction, and the portmanteau
acquired sufficient impetus to take a flying leap and
to clear my head. At Funchal so much sea was on
that at first it was thought that we should not be
able to communicate with the shore, but have to run
to Lisbon ; the gale, however, was on the decline, and
next day the water was fine and smooth.
During the earlier part of our voyage, both Mr,
May and I suffered much from frequent accessions oi
remittent fever, but our stay at Sierra Leone had a
very beneficial eSect on us. It seemed quite to cure
him, but I had a fresh seizure at Goree and during
the remainder of the time had repeated paroxysms.
Even after my arrival in England they continued, and
to this day I am liable to troublesome ague, keeping
384. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE, [chap. xii.
me well in mind of my morning visit to the swamp at
Angiama.
We left Madeira on the 24th of January, and during
the remainder of the passage had various weather.
When close to the Lizard, a gale of wind obliged us
to heave to with our head off shore, and with a very
heavy sea running the " Bacchante " showed herself
to be extremely easy and steady. A short interval of
repose enabled us to reach Plymouth Sound, where
we anchored on the night of the 3rd of February,
after a voyage, from Fernando Po, of sixty-seven days.
The following day we left by train for London to
report ourselves at the Admiralty.
CHAPTER XIII.
CONCLUSIOK
In an age so higlily practical as the present one,
tlie question may possibly be asked, what has your
expedition abeady done — and what future good do
you anticipate ? To such inquiries I should wish to
offer a short reply. A detailed account of the imme-
diate results has been already given, but here I am
desirous of speaking in more general terms. Our
voyage had points of interest for the utihtarian, the
commercial man, the man of science, and the philan-
thropist. To the two former I would reply, we have
discovered a navigable river, an available highway,
conducting us into the very heart of a large continent,
and by means of its branches and ramifications we are
brought into immediate contact with many thousand
miles of country. We have found these regions to be
highly favoured by nature, teeming with animal life,
and with fertile soils abounding in valuable vegetable
products, and adapted by diversity of position, of
elevation, and of character, for all the varied purposes
of tropical agriculture. We have met on friendly
terms with numerous tribes, all endowed by nature
386 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xiir.
with what I may term the "commercial faculty,"
ready and anxious to trade with us, and to supply us
from their inexhaustible stores, with immense quan-
tities of highly-prized articles, most valuable for
various economical appliances. We can likewise indi-
cate a most important outlet for home manufactures,
as the unclad millions of Central Africa must absorb
thousands of cargoes of soft goods, eagerly bartering
their raw cotton, their vegetable oils, and their ivory,
for our calicoes and cloths. Thus we can confidently
point out for those who follow a fresh field for energy
and activity, an unbroken ground, where both honour
and riches may be reaped.
To the man of science we would enumerate the
additions made to our geographical knowledge, to the
extent of new country examined and laid down, to
the survey of a new river, and the determination of
the erroneousness of the theory which derived the
Binue from Lake Tsad. How, the course of the
Kwora being knoAvn to be easterly, and that of
the Binue being now ascertained to be westerly,
the accounts of ancient geographers may be recon-
ciled, the descriptions of some evidently referring
to the main river, of others to the confluent. We
could also allude to the new tribes discovered, the
definitions of the boundaries of various districts, and
the additions to ethnology, philology, and natural
history, which, though by no means extensive, will be
found not to be wholly uninteresting. And to the
medical philosopher we would mention the results of
CHAP. XIII.] CONCLUSION. 387
our experience of the climate, our opinions on the
hitherto much dreaded " African fever," and the con-
firmation of the views of those who have recommended
to prevent rather than to cure, but, when attacked by
disease, to employ a rational instead of an empirical
treatment.
And finally, we would address the philanthropist,
by telling him of multitudes of human beings to
whom he might well turn his attention. That they
are organized Hke ourselves, have similar affections
and desii'es, but that, unlike the inhabitants of our
happier clime, they have been for ages a prey to the
strong, ground doAni by ruthless oppression and
savage passions. That naturally they are mild and
friendly, apt to learn, and desirous of being taught,
ready to receive first impressions, whether of good or of
evil. That these people are, alas ! mostly the slaves of
degrading superstitions and of heathen practices, and
totally ignorant of those blessed truths with which we
have been favoured and which were instilled into our
minds in infancy. And lastly, that gifted as we have
been with a revelation from on high, it is only our
duty to attempt to impart its doctrines to our less
favom-ed brethren, and that a great — a noble task is in
store for those who will pioneer the way of civilization
and Christianity.
To one topic I must especially allude, — namely, to
that horrid, that unnatural trafiic in human beings,
known as the slave-trade. Why the poor African
should have been solely selected as the victim of the
c c 2
388 NARRATIVE OF AN" EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap, xiil
cupidity of his brotlier man might form a curious
subject of enquiry : his intellect, when duly cultivated,
will rank with that of the white man, and he is infi-
nitely superior to many other races, such, for instance,
as the aboriginal Australian. In appearance and con-
struction he is certainly not more removed from the
Japetic nations than is the Mongolian, and he has
been shown to be in every respect made like ourselves
in the image of the Creator. I do not intend to refer
to domestic slavery, which, although highly repugnant
to our notions of freedom of action and equality of
rights, is yet a very different thing from foreign
slavery, domestic slaves being, in countries where the
rights of labour are unknown, the representatives of
our servants. They are usually treated with kindness,
and do not in general seem to have much to complain
of except their original forcible abduction. It is an
institution, too, so completely and so intimately mixed
up with the state of society in Africa, that many
years will not serve to uproot it, nor woidd we be
justified in employing any but mild and persuasive
means for stopping it. But of the other, who can
ever think for a moment without feelings of acute
horror, mingled with sensations of disgust, that our
feUow-men can be so base, so degraded, so hardened
as to pursue and to defend this dreadful commerce ?
Who, even the most callous amongst us, can meditate
without intense emotion on the scenes daily enacted
by the slave-hunter, on the husband separated from
the wife, the mother torn from her child, brothers and
CHAP. XIII.] COKCLUSION". 3S9
sisters, whole families scattered, never again to meet
on this side of the grave ? But worse than all is the
conduct of the man who ships these wretched
creatures, and, stowing them with less care than he
would horses or cattle, transports them to far distant
lands.
The only real method of effectually checking this
detestable trade is by striking at the root of the
supply, by going directly to the fountain-head. It is
by doing our utmost to improve the natives, by
softening their feelings, and by showing them how
much more advantageous it would be for them to
retain then countrymen at home, even as hewers of
wood and drawers of water, than to depopulate the
land, that we shall succeed in om' efforts. Tor these
purposes no auxiliary is more effectual than commerce,
which, to minds constituted like those of the Africans,
is highly intelligible. Prove to them that they can
derive more benefit by cultivating the ground, and
by selling their grain, their cam-wood, their palm-oil,
theii' shea-butter, than by living in a state of per-
petual warfare. Convince them how much happier it
would be for all to be able to rest quietly under their
own vines and fig-trees, when there would be none to
make them afraid, than, as at present, being in daily,
nay hourly dread of being carried off into captivity
by some one more powerfid than themselves. And
lastly offer them, as long as they abide by oiu: wishes
and directions, whatever advantages it may be in our
power to present to them. Thus a promise of regular
390 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xiir.
trade, of commercial establishments, of an uninter-
rupted supply of Em'opean goods, would form legiti-
mate bribes for good behaviour, and one which would
exercise great influence. Let but these tribes once
experience, even for a short time, the comfort of such
a new mode of life, and I hardly think that they
would again return to their former ways. These are
the commencing steps, and when missionary exertions
are also brought to bear upon them, I can have no
fear for the future.
As to the African squadron, I cannot but look on
it as a very valuable agent, but its influence is only
temporary and local. As long as we closely blockade
the known slaving-ports, the traffic will be for the
time knocked up in them ; but as soon as the ships
are withdrawn, slavers again appear. Besides, for
such a lucrative trade other outlets are soon formed.
But one means remains, which, though it has been
long ago recommended, we have not yet adopted,
namely, to declare slave-ships pirates, and to punish
the officers and crews accordingly. Why this has never
been done I cannot well imagine. No sensible mind
can hesitate to pronounce foreign slavery to be
piracy, yet we shrink from making a public avowal.
It is but little punishment for a slave-captain to lose
his vessel, he can easily get another, and the re-
muneration is too great not to tempt a man to risk
anything except his life. But further, I have no
hesitation in declaring, that there is no captain who
has carried slaves, who has not been, either directly
CHAP. XIII.] CONCLUSION. 391
or indirectly, guilty of murder. Take even the
mildest case : when slaves are shipped, they are
stowed in a confined space, where they have no air
to breathe, their food is stinted, and in this unwhole-
some, pestilential hole they are kept for weeks ; a
certain number of deaths is always allowed for, and
I hold that he who for mere caprice, or contrary to
the fundamental laws of humanity, confines human
beings in such a manner that some must die, must
be considered as the cause of their decease. And
now to consider the opposite extreme ; how often
have we heard of captains of slavers, during a hard
chase, throwing part or the whole of their human
cargo overboard, thus consigning these wretches to the
deep or to the jaws of hungry sharks, and hurrying
hundreds of immortal souls into eternity ! Who will
be bold enough to say that such a one is not a
murderer, and, if so, why not let him receive the
just reward of his deeds ? Nay, so complaisant were
our slaving regulations, that a slave-captain could
thus commit wholesale destruction of his species, be
seen to do so, and yet, if, when overtaken, no slaves
were found on board, he could not be seized. Such
characters, such man-stealers, man -destroyers, de-
serve no mercy, and should, according to every
principle of justice, be effectually prevented from
again pursuing their unlawful calling. Instead of
puzzling questions about nationalities and national
flags, and ship's papers and clearances, let every such
vessel be looked on as piratical, and without inquiring
892 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xnr.
for the birthplace of the master, let him be treated as
a pirate-captain. What does it matter whether he
is a Spaniard or a Portuguese ? he is equally an
enemy to the rights of mankind, and the interests of
society demand his punishment. He follows his voca-
tion on the high seas, but does that render him the
less dangerous, the less culpable ? By no means ;
locality does not mitigate the guilt of abstract crime,
and he who attempts the lives or the liberties of
his fellows, equally requires arrest, whether in the
crowded city or in the middle of the Atlantic. Let
but this course, therefore, be adopted, and doubtless
the number of those who would run their heads into
a noose will soon dwindle away. The professed
criminal, though he may be hardened, is seldom
brave, and will not, except when rendered desperate,
willingly face the prospect of death.
It is absoi'd to hear the defences of slavery which
are from time to time offered to the public. It
cannot clear what is in itself wrong, to tell how kind
certain masters are to their slaves, or to say that
negroes are better oJBP in Brazil or in Cuba than they
could be at home. No art, no ingenuity can palliate
the original offence. It is very fine to see or hear per-
sons sitting in comfort and luxury at home, breathe
forth a sickly sentimentalism and utter common-
place vapidities on such an important topic. Let
them place themselves in the position of an African, —
let them imagine themselves torn from house, home,
and everything dear to them, — let them picture them-
CHAP. XIII.] CONCLUSION. 393
selves encased in heavy irons, driven from place to
place at the point of the lash, sold, bartered for some
idle trinkets or an old red-coat, put on board ship,
chained in a space where there is not room to turn,
deprived of food and drink, landed, again re-sold, and
oblio-ed to slave out a wretched existence at the com-
O
mands of a brutal master. Let them fancy and
mentally realize such horrors, and then let them say
Avhether they can approve of this traffic. Whatever
fine folks may think to the contrary, colour of skin
constitutes no real difference. Under it is the same
flesh and blood, a similar brain works, and a like
heart beats. However refinement may be shocked
with the idea, it is nevertheless true, that the black
is indeed " a man and a brother ; " and it should be
remembered as a solemn truth, that the veriest negro
on Africa's shore is of as much value in the eyes of
his ]\Iaker, as the proudest peer or the mightiest
warrior of our land.
I believe that for the promotion of commerce and
of civilization in Central Africa, it is essential to cul-
tivate the friendship of the Pulo nation as being
exceedingly powerful and influential, and therefore
likely, under good management, to be useful. Por
this purpose I have proposed that the expedition shall
be renewed, and that the steamer shall proceed up the
Kw^ora as far as Rabba, from which place a deputation
should proceed by land to Sokoto, to wait on the Pulo
Sultan, and to endeavour to form with him a definite
commercial treaty, and to persuade him to further
394 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING YOYAGE. [chap. xiir.
our plans. Such a step gained would be of infinite 1
importance, and would greatly facilitate future pro-
gress. I have also proposed that means be adopted
to assist the civihzed natives in Sierra Leone in re-
turning to their homes, and in forming settlements.
And lastly, I would recommend that regular inter-
course be kept up for several years with the interior,
after which time it Yill be so established as to follow
as a matter of course. I am no advocate for endeavour-
ing to acquire new territory ; on the contrary, I think
such a proceeding would be prejudicial to our views.
We should go to Africa as we would to other foreign
countries, as visitors, as traders, or as settlers, doing
what we could to improve the race by precept and by
practice, but avoiding any violent interference or
physical demonstration. If attacked, we should be
prepared to defend ourselves, but we should be careful
not to give cause for offence.
Though the languages of Central Africa are very
numerous, there are a few, which if known, are suf-
ficient for the purposes of all ordinary intercourse.
There are the Hausa,* the I'gbo, and the I'gbira ;
and I have placed them according to their relative
value. The Hausa is smooth and easily acquired,
and will carry the traveller almost from the sea
to Bornu, or from Adamawa in one direction to
Timbuktu in the other. Further to the northward
* At present the Rev. Mr. Crowther, at Lagos, is engaged in the study
of the I'gbo Language; and in this country the Rev. Mr. Schciu is re-
vising and expanding his Hausa grammar.
cuAP. XIII.] CONCLUSION. 395
others will prove useful, such as Pulo, Kanuri, and
Arabic.
During the last five or six years much has been
added to our knowledge of the African continent.
The travels of Richardson, of Barth, of Overweg, and
of Vogel have told us much of Bornu, and of the
Hausa and Pulo countries ; and one of these enter-
prising men has even penetrated to the almost
mythical city of Timbuktu. In the extreme south,
Galton and Andersson have successfully explored vast
regions previously unknown, while between these the
adventurous Livingston is even now pursuing his un-
paralleled journey. The extent of country marked
" unexplored " on the maps is annually lessening, and
before many years it is to be hoped that such blots
will be totally expunged. The time has, I believe, at
length arrived when the inmost recesses of this
ancient continent are to be laid open, its people made
known, and its resources manifested. The cruel ills
heaped for ages on the heads of its unfortunate in-
habitants loudly demand reparation, and the neglect
of ages has yet to be atoned for. England has always
taken the lead in African exploration, hers has been
the expense, hers many of the valuable lives lost in
its prosecution. And now that she has sheathed the
sword which she drew in a righteous and a just cause,
let her afford a moment to think of other and not less
noble purposes. Time is all-important, and every
season allowed to pass away only further complicates
the business, and may injuriously affect the result.
39G NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. xiii.
Already two years have elapsed, during wliicli the
natives have been anxiously on the outlook for our
wished-for return, and, when the next expedition
actually does take place, numerous will be the
allusions to the want of faith and of punctuality on
the part of white men, and many will be the enquiries
why they do not practise what they are so ready to
inculcate. The country is promising, the people are
favourable, and the way, though not absolutely free
from danger, is open and not difficult. Thousands
Avill hail our advent, and in after-ages our first
attempts to visit and to improve these regions will
occupy a bright page in African history. Seeing
these things, why should we further delay ? I am
not indulging in chimerical expectations, but am
recording the impressions of actual personal experience.
The requisite expense for renewing and continuing our
explorations is very trifling, and when compared with
the benefit which will be conferred on myriads of our
fellow-creatures, it is absolutely nothing. Nor will
we be without our share of temporal rewards, as
a widely extended field will be opened to our com-
merce, and for years to come the demands for our
manufactured goods will steadily increase, while in
return we shall receive abundant supplies of rich
tropical produce. Be it England's, then, to follow up
the good work, commenced so long ago, and conse-
crated by the blood of Mungo Park, of Martyn, of
Laing, of Clapperton, of Kichardson, and of many
others of her own sons, as well as by the lives of
CHAP. XIII.] CONCLUSION. 397
Horuemann, of Belzoni, of Overweg, and other
enthusiasts travelhng on her behalf. Let her not
leave to other nations to finish what she has begun,
but let her pursue her labour of love, and aim at
acquiring and retaining the glorious title of the Friend
of Africa.
SCR EH' STKAMSH8P
BUILT BY MR JOHN LAIRD. FOR THE TCHADDR RIVE
Kriiiii ,1 DrsioM liy Wjlh.-iiii i.aiiil.
^ EXPLORING EXPEDITION,
niii.-mJiiiiil Inii Krhf
Mi«T», Alloiurt,. Sl liiy.r
APPENDIX.
A.
The dimensions of the " Pleiad " have already been given at
page 5 ; the accompanying lithographic plans are so complete
as hardly to require any description.
Figure a is a section along the level of the lower deck,
showing her internal arrangements and the abundant cabin
accommodation.
Figure B is a longitudinal section, which particularly exhibits
the angle and shape of the stem, the rake of the masts, the
line of the shaft, and the draught of water. The amj)le height
between decks, from six and a half to nearly eight feet is vexy
striking.
Figure c is a section, principally exhibiting the upper deck
plan, and also displaying well her great beam.
Figure d is a horizontal section, showing the shape of her
bottom, and giving a foreshortened view of half the bow.
Kot only was the " Pleiad " admirably adapted for her work,
but the extreme beauty of her model must at once be perceived.
She sailed very well indeed, was very stiff and dry, and the
only fault which could be found with her was that she was
rather slow in staying. She had a shifting fan, which was
found very useful and convenient, as it could be unshipped,
hoisted on deck, and again shipped within five minutes.
400 APPENDIX.
COPY.
ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS, ADDRESSED TO TnE LATE
MR. CONSUL BEECROFT.
Admiralty, 23rcZ May, 1854.
Sir, — Her Majesty's Government having determined to
send an expedition to the river Chadda, in Central Africa, and
understanding that you have expressed your willingness to be
the leader of such an expedition, and H.M. Secretary of State
for Foreign Affairs having granted permission for you to be
absent from your Consulate, I am commanded by my Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty to acquaint you that they
have accepted your offer, and you are hereby directed to take
charge of the expedition for exploring the river Chadda, and
all those forming a part of the said expedition are required to
obey your orders.
You will be accompanied by Dr. Baikie, a medical officer of
the Eoyal Navy, who is a natui*alist, and has been preparing
himself during the past year with this object. Possibly also
Dr. Bleek, Ph.D., of Bonn, an ethnologist, will be of the party.
It is further understood that the Eev. Mr. Crowther, from
Sierra Leone,* will avail himself of this opportunity of
ascending the river.
The vessel prepared for this expedition is the " Pleiad," an
iron screw steamer of 260 tons burthen, rigged as a schooner.
She is 100 feet in length, 24 feet beam, engines of 60 horse power,
and having 7 feet draught of water, with three months provisions
and stores on board, and twenty days' coal of twelve hours
each. She is officially reported on her trial of sj)eed, at Liver-
pool, to have made ten knots an hour in smooth water. There
will be, in addition to this vessel, two 50 feet sectional iron
trade boats, and the consular boat, all three of which will be
towed from Fernando Po, as far as the entrance of the Chadda,
or farther if necessary.
* This is an eri-or, Mr. Crowther having for several years been stationed
at Abbeokuta in the Ydruba country, and more lately at Lagos.
APPENDIX. 401
The Expedition has two main objects.
One is to explore the river Chadda, or Benueh, the eastern
branch of the Kawara from Dagbo, the highest point reached
by Oldfield and Allen in 1833, to the country of Adamaua, a
distance of about 400 miles, where the river was crossed at
the junction of the Benueh and Fai-o, by Dr. Barth, in June
1851 ; and thence again, if the season permits and the waters
are still rising, to the limit of navigation.
The other is to endeavour to meet and afford assistance to
that excellent traveller Dr. Barth, who left England for Africa
towards the close of the year 1849, and who, from the latest
accounts received from him, would, after reaching Tumbuktu,
make his way to the banks of the Benueh. On aU occasions
every possible enquiry is to be made for Dr. Barth, and no
presents spared in endeavouring to obtain information respecting
him. The same instructions hold good respecting Dr. Vogel,
who left England in 1853, and who may have succeeded in
penetrating to the banks of the Chadda.
In carrying out these two objects it is the desire of Her
Majesty's Government, for the benefit of commerce and
civilization, to take advantage of every opportunity for opening
trade with the natives at each large town on the banks of the
river, and within a moderate distance on either side. One
hundred pounds' worth of suitable presents and samples of
goods have been supplied by Government for this purpose, to
be delivered to you by the sailing-master of the " Pleiad,"
and a list of which is enclosed. These are to be freely given
on all occasions ; it is left to your judgment to limit the
amount, but the practice is always to be observed in con-
formity with the custom of the country. It is further desirable
to make careful enquiries as to the political power of the
several chiefs, as to the state of civilization among them, as to
the existence of foreign slave-trade, and if so, whether they
would consent to put an end to it, if lawful trade could be
ensured to them, and a market opened for ivory and other
products of the country. Mr. Crowther will naturally enquire
into the apparent disposition, willingness, or aptitude of the
natives to receive religious or secular instruction.
Erom your experience as a traveller in Central Africa, it is
402 APPENDIX.
almost unnecessary to give you any detailed instructions, yet
it is right to call your attention to the most recent and best
map of Central Africa, accompanied by a memorandum com-
piled by Mr. Petermann from the papers of Messrs. Eichardson,
Barth, Overweg, and Vogel, placed at his disposal by the
Earl of Clarendon, H.M. Secretary of State for Foreign
Affairs. A copy of this worjc is supplied for your use. In it you
Avill see that the town of Doma on the north of the Chadda,
Wukari the capital of Ivororrofa on the south, Juggum a
settlement of the Koana, Hamarrua, and Tola the capital of
Adamaua, are places of importance. Wukj'iri is described as
a very large town lying eight miles south of the river,
and the capital of the populous country of Kororrofa,
with the chief of which it is hoped an extensive trade may be
established. AVithin 30 miles of Yola Mount Alantika is said
to reach an altitude of 10,000 feet ; if the highest point could
be attained it would be an admirable position for a round of
angles or bearings, as on a clear day in that climate the radius
of vision from it would be fully 100 miles.
It is essential, as you ascend the Chadda, to make a rapid
survey of the windings of the river, noting the depths of water
and width of stream, with the character and height of its
banks, laying the work down at once on prepared sheets of
paper by careful compass bearings, and measured or estimated
distances, checking the whole by astronomical observations at
every halt for the night. For this latter purpose you will be
provided with three chronometers and the necessary instru-
ments. In using the compass it must not be forgotten that
the observations are made on board an iron ship ; all bearings
should therefore be taken from the standard compass and
carefully corrected for local deviation, which should be ascer-
tained by swinging the vessel at Fernando Po, before starting,
and testing it every evening by bearings of the pole star, which,
in those latitudes, will be always within 7° or 8° of the horizon.
On all occasions you will endeavour to ascertain the height
of any hill or mountain which may be in sight ; if no means
are afforded of measuring it by angles or by barometer, never
omit to estimate its altitude and mark down its position and
height while on the spot. Trust nothing to memory.
APPENDIX. 403
In the Admiralty " Manual of Scientific Enquiry," a copy of
■which ia supplied, you will find useful suggestions in
geography, hydrography, and in all other departments of
science.
Dr. Baikie is to act as medical adviser to your party. He
has been supplied with all the necessary medicines, and a
sufficient stock also to enable him to prescribe for the natives,
whose goodwill is readily obtained by medical advice and
assistance, more so perhaps than by any other means. It will,
therefore, be politic to offer his services on many occasions.
Dr. Baikie will also act as naturalist to the expedition ; he is
so well acquainted with the branches of zoology and botany
that no special instructions are required, but a few suggestions
are offered by Professor Edward Forbes, as well as some hints on
geology by Sir Roderick Murchison, on ethnology by Dr.
Latham, and on terrestrial magnetism by Col. Sabine, with
instruments, instructions and blank forms for meteorological
observations. Ton will see that Dr. Baikie is provided with
boats or the necessary means for facilitating his researches,
and that every care be taken of any collections he may make.
The Commander of the " Pleiad " is engaged to comply with
all your requisitions, as you will observe by a copy of the
Contract, and of his Instructions from his owners, which are
annexed.
The "Pleiad" being armed with a 12.pounder pivot-gun,
four swivels, Minie rifles and double-barrelled guns for the
officers, muskets for the crew, and with boarding nettings
of wire, it is not probable that she will meet with any
opposition in the lower parts of the river where there may be
danger. But you will remember that the best security from
attack consists in the natives seeing and knowing you are well
prepared to meet it. At the same time you are strictly
enjoined to use the greatest forbearance towards the people,
and, while retaining proper firmness in the event of any mis-
understanding, to endeavour to conciliate as far as can possibly
be admitted with safety to your party. Tou will, on all
occasions, enforce the strictest justice, and never, on any
account, permit one of your party to ill-treat, insult, or cheat
the natives.
D D 2
404 APPENDIX.
You will comply with the first Article of War iu Her
Majesty's naval service, in causing Divine Worship to be cele-
brated on board on Sundays, and allow no unnecessary work
to be done, or trading operations to be carried on, on that day.
At the same time you will be careful to observe the spirit
rather than the letter of the law, and never allow the vessel or
your party to remain in a dangerous or unhealthy position, or
risk being caught in a falling river, or defer any work of
positive necessity on that day.
Tou should not delay your departure from Fernando
Po beyond the 1st July at latest ; if the vessel can be ready
it would be better to leave earlier, as this late period will
ouly leave you two months for your ascent of the river,
since you must commence your return voyage as soon as
the river ceases to rise, probably about the beginning of
September.
In the possible, but, it is trusted, most improbable, loss of
the " Pleiad," on any of the numerous rocks and banks which
may be expected in an unexplored river, the consular boat and
two trade-boats will ensure you the means of a safe return to
the sea ; and their Lordships will direct the mad-packets to call
off the mouth of the river each voyage from the middle of
September to the end of the year, to make enquiries as to
your safety, and to afford you assistance iu case of need.
During the whole of the expedition you will keep a full
journal of your proceedings, and, if an opportunity offers of
sending home despatches from time to time, you will not fail
to avail yourself of it, transmitting, at the same time, a tracing,
however rough, of the chart of the river, as far as you may
have advanced, so that, in case of an accident to your papers,
the results of the expedition, so far, will be recorded.
On reaching Pernaudo Po, you will of course resume your
consular duties ; Dr. Baikie will return to England in one of
the contract packets, on board of which a free passage is
provided for him, briuging with him the journal, plans, and
collections connected with the expedition, and report himself
to the Admiralty on his arrival.
Finally, you are strictly enjoined to be careful of the health
of the party entrusted to your charge, and to afford them the
APPENDIX. 405
benefit of your experience as to the best mode of maintaining
health in African rivers ; and should, unfortunately, fever
break out and assume a threatening appearance, you are to
remember that you are not called upon to persevere in the
ascent of the river, but that your first care is the safety of
your people.
(Signed) E. Osboene.
(COPY.)
ME. LAIEd'S INSTETJCTIOIirS TO ME. T. C. TATLOE,
SAILING-MASTEE OF THE "PLEIAD."
London, 3, Mincing Lane, May 8, 1854.
SiE, — Having appointed you to command the screw steamer
" Pleiad," about to proceed under a contract with the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty (a copy of which is handed
you herewith) on an exploring voyage up the river Niger
and its tributaries, I have now to state the manner in which
you will carry out the contract, your relation to the govern-
ment passengers who are appointed to accompany you, and the
principles which will guide you in your intercourse and trading
operations with the natives.
2. Tou will consider all trading operations subsidiary and
auxiliary to the main design of the voyage, which is to ascend
the river Chadda, the eastern branch of the Niger, as high as
possible during the rise of the river.
3. The Admiralty appoint three gentlemen to accompany
the expedition, — Captain Beecroft, Her Majesty's Consul at
Fernando Po, Dr. Baikie, E.N,, and a third, for the purpose of
laying down the course of the river, and making observations on
the character of the people and the productions of the country.
Their relation to you is that of first-class passengers in a
contract steam-packet, found and provided in everything by
the ship ; to whom you will afibrd every facility, by stopping,
proceeding, or delaying your voyage, and supplying them with
boats, men, and provisions, whenever required for their
scientific pursuits.
40 G APPENDIX.
In case of any difference of opinion, you will require an
order in writing from the senior present, and that order you
will obey. Ton are to supply them with any articles of
merchandise, cowries, or doUars at the market value at tlie
time of such supply. These gentlemen will join the " Pleiad "
at Fernando Po,
4. In your intercourse with the natives you are not to
assume any other character than that of a trader, which they
will at once recognize and understand. Ton are not to mix
yourself up with their local disputes ; and, when they exist,
change your location as quickly as possible, deal with them
firmly and justly, and on no account allow the slightest insult
or the smallest theft olfered or committed on board your
vessel to pass unnoticed or unpunished.
Tou will conform to the customs of the country in making
the usual presents to the chiefs and leading men in the villages
and towns you visit, using your judgment as to the amount,
but never omitting the practice, which corresponds to the
Custom-House charges of civilized countries.
5. You will enforce strict discipline with your ofi&cers and
crew, and severely punish any of them who ill-treat, insult, or
cheat the natives, and you will not permit women to remain
on board on any pretence.
6. The " Pleiad " being armed with a 12-pounder pivot-gun,
four swivels, Minie rifles and double-barrelled guns for the
ofiicers, and muskets for the coast negroes employed as
crew, and with boarding nettings of wu'e, it is not probable
she will meet with any opposition in the lower parts of the river
where iliere is danger. But you will remember the only
security from attack is the natives seeing and knowing you are
well prepared to meet it, and if you are attacked that you
forfeit all your advantages if you allow them to make a hand-to-
hand fight of it.
Tour superiority is in your arms, and a few rounds of-
canister from your pivot-gun will be sufiicient to show them
that, after which you will have no more trouble. The cause of
any collision is generally misunderstanding. As a rule the
natives are well disposed, but in the lower parts of the river
they cannot resist the temptation to plunder, if they think
APPENDIX. 407
it can be done witli impunity. Above Eboe there is no
danger.
7. The Rev. Mr. Crowther, to wboin I have oiFered a passage
in the "Pleiad," will join at Pernando Po from Lagos. It is
my desire that he has every opportunity given him of seeing
the country and the people. His position on board is that of
my guest, and you will see that he is treated with deference
and respect.
8. You will have Divine Service on Sundays, and allow no
unnecessary work to be doue, or trading operations to be carried
on ; but you will draw a broad line between the Jewish ob.seiw-
ance of the Sabbath and the Christian one, and never allow
your ship or ship's company to remain in a dangerous or un-
healthy position, or defer any work of necessity on that day.
9. The mail-packet "Bacchante" took out on the 25th of
April to Pernando Po the cai'go, provisions, and stores for the
" Pleiad," and two iron sectional boats, 50 feet long by 8 feet
beam ; and by the mail-packet of the 24th of May three inter-
preters, selected from the liberated Africans at Sierra Leone by
Mr. Oldfield, will join you. They will be of Eboe, Haussa, and
Yariba tribes, the three languages, dialects of which are spoken
as far as you will proceed. '
10. You will follow, with as little deviation as possible, the
following plan of proceedings : —
On your arrival at Peruando Po, and assuming command of
the " Pleiad," which vessel will be delivered to you there by
Captain Johnston, who takes her out, you will receive your
provisions, stores, and cargo — shipped per " Bacchante " —
together with the two 50-feet canoes. These canoes and the
consular boat are to be towed by the " Pleiad " to the main
branch of the Niger, and up that stream when needful ; you
are to load them with coal and such parts of the cargo of the
" Pleiad " as you may deem best, taking care to leave Fernando
Po with twenty days' coal of twelve hours for your engines,
which, if no accident occur, should carry you to the limit of
navigation in the Chadda. The depax-ture from Fernando Po
must be as soon after the 1st July as possible.
The Admiralty Charts of the main branch of the Niger, tlie
accounts of former ascents, and the presence of Captain Bee-
408 APPENDIX.
croft, -uill be sufficient guides to you in the ascent of tlie river
from the sea.
Tou will proceed as rapidly as possible from the mouth of
the river to the confluence of the Niger and Chadda, where
you will leave one or both of your 50-feet boats, in charge of
such of your supercargoes as you may think fit, and proceed
without delay up the Chadda, making every exertion to reach
" Tola," the capital of Adamowa. This, either in the " Pleiad"
or the boats, ought to be done before the 1st of September.
In your ascent of the river, in order to secure a safe return to
the sea, in case of the loss of the " Pleiad," trade of some sort
must be carried on with every large town, and at the two great
market-places below the Confluence, and you will use your
discretion either to push on with the steamer, or to leave one
of the trade-boats to follow you, so as to keep up your mer-
cantile character with the natives.
In the extreme case of the loss of your vessel on any of
the numerous rocks and banks of both rivers, the consular
boat and two trade-boats will ensure you a safe return to tlie
sea, and I will move the Lords of the Admiralty to order the
mail-packets to call oflP the river every voyage.
On your return down the Chadda, if the river Niger is still
rising, it will depend on the state of your ship and crew, and
the wishes of the Government oflicer, declared in writing,
Avhether you ascend that sti*eam to Kabbah or beyond it.
Before leaving for the coast you will offer to leave in charge
of any of your supercargoes, who shall volunteer for the service,
both the trade-boats and what merchandise you have left, to
remain in the river until the next season — say July, 1855 —
and you will leave with them a sufficient crew for both boats.
On your arrival at Fernando Po you will take passages for
yourself and the Government passengers in the first contract-
packet for England, sending the " Pleiad " home under canvass
in charge of a suitable officer.
(Signed) Macgeegor Laibd.
APPENDIX. 409
LIST OF EUROPEANS ON BOARD THE PLEIAD.
William Balfoiir Baikie, M.D., in charge of the expediti
Dauiel John May, Second Master, R.N.
John T. Dal ton, Zoological Assistant.
Thomas C. Taylor, Sailing-master and Supercargo.
Thomas J. Hutchinson, Surgeon and Supercargo.
John Harcus, Chief-mate.
John Kirkpatrick, Second-mate.
Charles Johnson (a Prussian), Third-mate.
William Guthrie, Chief-Engineer.
Richard Gower, Second-Engineer.
Samuel R. Crawford, Supercargo.
John J. Elvege, Steward.
Europeans 12
Persons of Colour 54
Total 66
A slight numerical error lias crept into the text at page 30.
To do proper justice to the share taken by Mr. May in the
proceedings of the expedition, and the assistance he constantly
rendered, I think it right to publish the official certificate given
to him on his return to England :—
" It aifords me more than ordinary satisfaction to testify to
the general conduct of Mr. D. J. May during the late exploring
voyage up the rivers Kwora and Tsadda, and to the great assist-
ance he afforded in carrying out the designs of the expedition.
Mr. May had been serving on the coast of Africa for three years
previously in H.M.S. " Crane," but hearing, on the arrival of
the " Pleiad " at Fernando Po in June last, that the numbers
of the Government party were much reduced, he at once
volunteered his services, and from the excellent character
given him by his commanding officer, was at once entrusted
with the superintendence of the surveying duties.
" Prom the very limited period during which our explo-
rations could be carried on, there was necessarily the closest
application required. The labour of laying down, within four
months, 700 miles of river, with careful soundings, besides
inspecting tributary branches, examining innumerable islands,
taking constant observations for latitude, longitude, and vari-
410 APPENDIX.
atiou of the compass, frequently re-ratiug chronometers, &c., in
a tropical climate, can hardly be understood except by those
who have shared or witnessed such exertions.
" Whenever I required help of any kind, I had invariably a
most willing and able assistant in Mr. May, who most readily
undertook to aid in any branch of enquiry. His intimate
acquaintance with and love for nautical astronomy and the
other scientific branches of lus profession, peculiarly fitted him
for that most important division of our pursuits to which he
more particularly devoted himself.
" His charts, the results of his labours, with his work-book,
showing the observations and other data on which our geo-
graphical positions are based, being now in the Admiralty,
will at once show that in what I have now written I have
done but scant justice to his diligence, his perseverance, and
his acquirements.
(Signed) " AY. B. B."
" London, April 5, 1854."
The following letter, which, at the conclusion of the voyage,
I felt it my duty to address to Mr. Crowther, has already, with
the exception of one paragraph, been published with that
gentleman's journal, but his characteristic and modest reply
has not been printed : —
Clarence, Noremhe)-2S, 1854.
Mt dear Mr. Ceowthee, — After having been together
for upwards of four months, closely engaged in exploring
Central Africa, I cannot allow you to depart without express-
ing to you, in the warmest manner, the pleasure I derived
from your company, and acknowledging the information I
have reaped from you.
Tour long and intimate acquaintance with native tribes, with
your general knowledge of their customs, peculiarly fit you for
a journey such as we have now returned from, and I cannot
but feel that your advice was always readily granted to me, nor
had I ever the smallest reason to repent having followed it.
It is nothing more than a simple fact, that no slight portion
APPENDIX. 411
of the success "sve met with in our intercourse with the tribes
is due to you.
Our voyage has providentially terminated so far favourably
and without loss of life. As to the unhappy diflfereuces which
existed on board the " Pleiad," I can only say, I regret deeply
the constant part I was obliged to take in them. I need not
further allude to them ; they must frequently have disturbed
your comfort, and the very remembrance of them must be
unpleasant.
Tou are now about to return to the scene of your past
labours, and to resume your share of the work for civilizing
and regenerating a vast territory. That your labours may
continue to meet with success, and that you may be spared to
see your exertions bearing good fruit, is the sincere wish of
Tours, very faithfully,
AVii. Balfoue Baikie.
The Rkv. Samuel Crowthek.
THE REV. S. CROWTHER TO DR. BAIKIE,
Clarence, Fernando Po, November 28, 1854.
Mt deae Sib, — I have received your kind letter of this
day's date, and I thank you very much for the sentiment
therein expressed.
I have always thought, and do think the same still, that the
praise and honour of the success which has attended the expe-
dition to explore the Tshadda, and which you had the honour
to head, on the part of Government, is due to God, who has
thus mercifully preserved the health of all the Europeans
therein engaged, in so singular a manner ; and in the eujoy-
ment of such health, nothing could deter you from carrying
out the wishes of Government in that noble object.
May we be led from this to resign ourselves to God's all-
wise disposal, who can continue or dispense with our services,
as seems good in his sight.
(Signed) Sam. Ckowther.
412 APPENDIX.
The following correspondence took place at Fernando Po on
t]:e removal of the various instruments from the " Pleiad,"
preparatory to their being sent by the mail-packet to
England : —
No. 1.
MR. T. C. TAYLOR TO DR. BAIKIE.
S. S. Pleiad, Clarence Cove, November 10, 1854.
SiE, — Seeing that Mr. May has removed the chronometers
from the " Pleiad" this morning, I beg to say that, although
I have no writing concerning them, I consider the fact of its
having been arranged between Mr. Laird and the Admiralty,
for them to come out in the vessel, implies that they should
also return in her. And I hereby inform you, that the vessel
will be disabled, unless supplied with at least two of them,
with an authenticated certificate of their error and rate.
(Signed) Thos. C. Tayloe.
Dr. Baikie, R.K
No. 2.
DR. BAIKIE TO MR. TAYLOR.
Clarence, Novemler 10, 1854.
Sir, — In consequence of your representation to me, of this
morning's date, of the inefficiency of the screw-steamer
" Pleiad," from the want of a chronometer for the navigation
of the ship to England, I have to inform you that I will take
upon myself the responsibility of supplying you, for that
purpose, with one of the Admiralty chronometers in my
charge.
One chronometer is the number usually supplied to her
Majesty's ships and vessels of war of a much larger size than
the " Pleiad," and is esteemed better than two.
The instrument with which I intend to supply you is
"Young, 110," which will be delivered to you, or to a careful
APPENDIX. 413
messenger, by Mr. May, who will take a receipt for the
same.
The error and rate of this instrument, determined in a
comparatively doubtful locality, and under very disadvan-
tageous circumstances, cannot be nearly so correct or so
satisfactory to yourself as those which you will have ample
time and opportunity for ascertaining before the "Pleiad"
can leave this port.
(Signed) ^Y. B. B.
Mb. T. C. Taylor.
No. 3. '
MR. TAYLOR TO DR. BAIKIE.
S. S. Pleiad, Fernando Po, Novemler 10, 1854.
SiE, — I have to acknowledge your letter of this date respect-
ing the chronometers, and beg to say I am so busy just now
winding up the affairs of the expedition, and making arrange-
ments for getting the "Pleiad" to England, that it is very
little time I could spare to finding the error and rate of a
chronometer; but if Mr. May could spare time, aud would
take the trouble to do it for me, it would oblige me ; and if
not, he will please to let me have the present error and rate, so
far as he knows it, with which whosoever I take as sailing-
master of the " Pleiad" home must do as well as he can.
(Signed) Thos. C. Tatloe.
Db. Baikie, R.N.
The " Pleiad" did not leave Fernando Po for England until
the 29th of November.
The following document may be looked on as a diplomatic
cui-iosity. The original, from which I copied this, is in the
possession of King Pepple, and it contains the terms of a
treaty made between the people of Bonny and of Andoni,
between whom a fierce and bloody war was waged about ten
years ago ; —
414 APPENDIX.
(COPY.)
TREATY BETWEEN KING PEPPLE OF BONNY AND TUB
CHIEFS OF ANDONT.
Erom tlie date of this document the natives of Andony shall
be considered as subjects of King Pepple, and shall be entitled
to the same rights and privileges as the Bonny men.
2nd. The Andony men bind themselves not to have any
communication whatever with Young Calabar or Creeka
country ; if on the contrary such communication is held, the
person or persons so offending shall be subject to such punish-
meni; as King Pepple shall choose to inflict. But should
Young Calabar or Creeka men bring provisions to Andony
for sale, the Andony men shall be allowed to buy the same ;
but under no circumstances or pretence whatever shall Young
Calabar or Creeka men retail spirits in the Andony.
3rd. No marriages between Andony, Young Calabar, and
Creeka country will be allowed.
4th. When the Andony men make their great Jewjew, the
natives of Bonny promise to give them hip-cloths, caps, rum,
&c. ; and when the Andony men come to receive the above,
they promise to present the Bonny men with some dried fish.
5th. The Andony men further promise, that when desired
by the King of Bonny to catch fish for the public feasts, they
will do it.
6th. They, the Andony men, also promise not to destroy the
Guano, but allow the animal liberty the same as in Bonny.
7th. Should there be war between Bonny and any other
power, the Andony men promise to supply war-canoes, well
fitted out and ready-manned, in order to assist the Bonny men.
If the Andony men should be short of canoes, guns, or ammu-
nition, the Bonny men will supply them with the same.
Further, if any other country should in any wise molest the
Andony men, the Bonny men bind themselves to interfere and
act in the same manner as they would were it their own
country.
Sth. Each party, — viz., tlie Andony and Bonny men, —
APPENDIX.
4i5
mutuallj agree and bind themselves, that for the future they
will not eat human flesh.
9th. The Andony men also promise to supply Bonny canoes
■with men to assist in puUing to the fair.
10th. That in case of any dispute arising between any two
parties, natives of Andony, King Pepple is to be informed of
the same, and that he (the King) will send a competent person
(without charge) to settle the matter.
11th. The Andonymen bind themselves to pay Jewjew Guano
800 manillas.
12th. Should the Andony men kill any elephants, they are
to present the teeth thereof to King Pepple ; and should the
Andony men at any time be short of muskets or powder, King
Pepple will supply them.
13th. In case of any shipwrecks, and should any white men,
under whatever circumstances, get into the power of the Andony
men, they (the Andony men) are immediately to transfer them
over to King Pepple without injury.
SIGNATURES (aNDOKY )
Chiefs^ Names. To^vns.
SIGNATURES (BONNy).
Oto Aboloocaua |
Breya
Aberedain
Eborilla
Obalacoo
Soocoo
Amaberaa
Atrongballa
Eparacong
Ooroonee
lukie
Ayaga
Acncca
Euiitto
Obolum
Ecreequebo
Agauda.
Aperama.
Ereyama.
jUngo.
V Corro.
Ayangala.
1- Egoole.
V Allabea.
[■ Elletoombe.
Okenda.
<P^.
/i^^A^ /^
Anna Pepple
Manilla Pepple
Jack Brown
Amataeca or Dajipa
Allison
Captain Hart
Black Foobra
Jewjew Tiger
John Africa
William Pepple
Jewjew Telefar
Indian Queen
Tom-Tom
his X mark,
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
The forenamed chiefs have sent representatives, whose marks
are affixed below, to ratify to the above-named treatv : —
MG APPENDIX.
Representatives' Names.
Otebong Lis X liiin'k. Egoo his X mark.
Sauga do. Ogbolotoo do.
Amabarra do.
Witnesses.
John Angus Ward, Princess Royal.
Chas. Calvert, William Batsford.
Wm. Kelly, Huskisou.
G. W. S. Witt, Swiftsure.
G. W. W. Bond, Fanny.
Wm. Owens, B. Packet.
Arthur J. P. Cutting,
Peter Jacobson, Warwick.
Dated this 22nd December, 1846, in the Jewjew House, or
Parliament House, Grand Bonny.
B.
In tlie various districts on the Delta of the Kwora, in
Yoruba, Biui, I'gbo, Igara, I'gbira, Nupe, and the Hausa and
Piilo countries, the principal currency consists of cowries.
These are almost all originally exported from England, and
vary in price according to the supply and demand. They are
sold in bulk, the average price being from about 4Z. 4<s. to
51. 5s. a cwt. Their equivalent in English money in Africa
ranges from a shilling to a dollar a thousand, the average
being from 1*. Gd. to 2^. Attempts are being made by the
missionaries in the Tdruba countries to introduce dollars as a
mediiim of exchange, which would be a vast improvement. I
have at pp. 114 and 220 alluded to two forms of iron money
which we met with. This currency, far from being of recent
introduction, is most probably of indigenous origin, and cer-
tainly anterior to the employment of cowries. I find the
following notices regarding an analogous form : —
" In Moko they have Coin'd Money, made of Iron in the
form of a Hoach, the Eundle as big as the Palm of a Hand,
with a Handle about an Inch long." — Ogilbij^s Africa, fol.,
1670, p. 482.
APPENDIX. 417
" The money of MoJco is of iron, in the shape and figure of
a thornback, flat and as broad as the palm of the hand, having
a tail of the same metal, of the length of the hand." — Bar-
hot's Descr'ij)tion of the Coasts of South Guinea, in ChurchilV s
Collection of Voyages and Travels, 1732, vol. v. p. 380.
The various media of exchange now established in the trading
rivers in the Bights, as brass-rods at Old Kalabar, and manil-
las at Bonny, have been introduced by European commerce.
The use of cowries extends far into the interior, reaching even
to Timbuktu. The coined money along the coast is to a great
extent English, but other forms are also commonly met with,
principally French five-franc pieces and Spanish doubloons and
dollars ; the rate of exchange of the latter varying from 4*. to
4s. 4^(1. In 1854-5 coin was so scarce, that along the Gold-
Coast the chief circulating medium was gold-dust, and, of course,
in weighing and transferring small quantities, considerable loss
was incurred.
C.
In reducing previously unwritten languages, — under which
category have been included, until very lately, nearly all
African tongues, — great difiiculty has been experienced from
the want of a uniform system of orthography, and much con-
fusion has thereby been caused. Until a very recent date,
each writer transcribed words in accordance with the genius
of his own language, or to agree with some pet phonetic
theory, and thus his labours were often comparatively unin-
telligible to scholars belonging to other nations. In endea-
vouring to introduce alphabetical writing, the great aim should
be to employ a system which assigns one simple power to each
letter, and which represents similar sounds and combinations
of sounds by the same letters. English philologists ought to
remember, that when so engaged they should not write merely
for their own countrymen, but that their transcripts should be
able to be read and to be pronounced easily by continental
students, whether French, Italian, or German. A few years
418
APPENDIX.
ago several of the Toreign Missionary Societies having expe-
rienced the evil results of such discrepancies, proposed the
adoption of a uniform standard, to comprehend all such vocal
sounds as were then knovs^n among African trihes, or such as
were likely to occur. The system then determined on has,
with some improvements, been pursued ever since, and has
been productive of the best results. At present the plan
almost universally in use is that of Professor Lepsius of Berlin,
with a few modifications, it being the most comprehensive and
the most philosophical yet proposed.
The following is, therefore, the alphabet which I have era-
ployed, and which is the one recommended by the Church
Missionary Society. In it the vowels are used with the
powers given to them by the Italians — examples of their
sounds being added in English words : —
VOWELS.
as in
ravine.
as in saw.
i»
it.
9
„
Konig (German), or
"
prey,
affect.
u
!>
peu (French).
foot.
"
cat,
but.
dome.
11
gilte (German), or
line (French).
DIPHTHONGS
i as in
I tide. 1
au
as in
now.
1 oi as in noise.
CONSONANTS
b as in bag.
d „ den.
f -, fan.
P
r
s
as in pan.
„ run.
„ sun.
(1 V
h „
h „
got.
hot.
loch (Scotch).
8
t
t
,, she.
„ tan.
,, thin.
J „
k „
join,
keep,
let.
d
V
w
that.
„ vail.
„ will.
111 „
man.
y
yet.
n „
not.
English (nasal).
z
„ amaze or noise.
APPENDIX. 419
DOUBLE CONSONANTS.
ts like the German z. A-p is the hard co-relative of p6.
dz is a modified ts. c is always expressed by s or h
gb is a hard sound of i, found in q ,, „ „ lew.
many African languages. x „ „ „ Tcs.
THE LANGUAGES OF THE COUNTRIES BORDERING ON
THE KWO'RA AND BINUE.
To the westward of the Eio Formoso the language spoken
is the Ijebu dialect of Toruba, while more inland, towards the
north-east, is found the Bini (Benin) tongue. From the Eio
Formoso to the Nun, including all the western portion of the
Delta, the natives speak Orii or Ejo, and to the westward of
Abo a distinct dialect is used, namely the Sdbo. Nimbe or
Brass is very nearly related to the Orii, and I believe that
Irom the Brass Eiver to the New Kalabar, the natives dwelliug
on the banks of each of the iuterveniug rivers all talk
differently. At the Sombreiro I know positively that this is
the case, but here the dialect closely approaches that of New
Kalabar. Between the last-mentioned place and Ebsiue or
Bonny there are well-marked differences, and I have been told
that the language spoken in the intervening district of Okrika
is distinct from either, while beyond Okiiloma a fresh language
is to be found at Andoui. Along both sides of the mouth of
the Old Kalabar the Kwa language will, I believe, be found
prevalent, but about fifty miles up this river, around Duke-
Town, Old Town, and Creek Town, it is replaced byE'fik.
From Old Kalabar to the Cameroons little, if anything, is
known of the languages, but that spoken up this latter river is
the Diwalla.
Ascending the Kwdra, from the mouth of Wari affluent to
the borders of Igara, the languages on either side are dialects
of I'gbo, namely Abo, Isuama, and E'lugu. Beyond this to the
eastward we find Igara, which is related to the Toruba, while
opposite to Idda Bini is spoken. The people of I'gbira-Sima
do not quite reach the river, and beyond them on the right
E E 2
420 APPENDIX.
bank are heard Bonii, Bassa, and Isbabe. Nupe, though well
known, does not properly reach so far down as the Confluence.
On entering the Binue, on the right side is heard the I'gbira-
Panda dialect of I'gbira, which also prevails in Igbegbe and^in
the various I'gbira settlements along the southern shore.
Further up, to the northward, are the Easa and Ddma
languages, and on the south the Mitshi. In Bautshi and
Hamariiwa, Hausa is always spoken, though Pvilo is also
understood by many. lu Kordrofa and among the Baibai to
the eastward, the language comprises different forms of Djuku.
The lower part of the Kwdra and the Binue, though they do
not form quite an absolute barrier, yet constitute a well-marked
line of distinction between the tribes living on the opposite
sides. Those to tlie eastward and southward are in most
respects closely allied to the South African races, while to the
westward and northward the resemblances are much less
marked, and intermixture with more northern tribes and with
Arabs show themselves. All the coast dialects from Oru to
Old Kalabar, are either directly or indirectly connected with
I'gbo, which latter Dr. Latham informs me is certainly related
to the Kafir class, and I have but little doubt that, when
critically examined, Mitshi and Djuku will prove to be members
of the same extensive family.
AVith regard to other tongues, Igara, Tgbira, and Kakauda
are all related to the Tdruba, which, though not the centre of
a distinct group, yet may be regarded as forming what would
be termed in natural history, a sub-family. Basa is connected
both with Toruba and Niipe, and the affinities of Hausa and of
Pulo, though not entirely distinctive, yet show them to be very
considerably removed from the true South African type.
I'GE
50 WORDS.
:6se
6ko
King (Abo).
fire.
Oris a
( God the Creator
\ (Abo).
mo
6komo
spirit,
hell.
Tshiiku-okeke
God the Creator
(Isuama).
n^lu
heaven.
Ofu
an image.
liti
a grave.
Ofum
my image.
TshCiku
the Deity.
'I'shukuin
my God.
APPENDIX.
421
Ofu Tshuku
Ood^s image.
erise-nao
hecutsonboth sides.
(3mo Tshuku
God's children.
moma Tshuku
angel.
mo ndjd, or
\ a demon, an evil
J spint, or the devil.
tshi
soul.
mo djo
auyainwo
sun.
Kamilllo
Satan ?
omvva
moon.
r one tvho lived above
akpopaudo or
> star.
Igwik
■I before coming
bankpodo
L down.
jlgega
north.
fiUa
ground.
figega-kdiii
south.
Igwik^lla
( the name of an evil
\ spirit.
eziiihir-any£im'
sv'o east.
ogweri
west.
1" a country fashion
minyi
rain or water.
m^wo
< for raising an
miiiyi edo
rain comes.
L evil spirit.
uKri
^ . ,
6 mo
child or children.
, , . , ' >ioma.
uwheri (Ozuzu) J
n6
mother.
tshiabatshiina
light.
n^in
my mother.
itrijlba
darkness.
otutu
morning.
meninu (6zuzu) sea, i.e. salt water.
dji
yam.
osimeri
river ov great leater,
agba
pig.
imii or ii
lake.
flgba-^zhi
pig's jaw.
ebeigwe or eb^Iu thunder.
6no
cloth, baff.
amum-Igwi
lightning.
zhi
blue, black.
^grugu
rainbow.
osi, odji (Isiidma) 6?we, hlacJc.
igrigi or idrigi
dew.
undji
dark
^
j smoke, used thus,
1 amum-dko
ono-zhi
blue baff.
amutn
akwasha
white baff.
elugwe
cloud.
•unyi
charcoal.
enyunyo
shadow.
okri
a wedder goat.
ndo
shade.
ihe
thing or something.
6gro
fog, mist.
6kwa
a wooden basin.
oho mlnyi
spring of water.
6gbo
a calabash.
olili
l well of water.
Itshi
cut-face.
olulu (Ozuzu)
kein
mine.
mb^
country.
English.
E'lugu.
Isudma.
Abo.
how do yedo?l^^^^^
mam£io
nd.
(salutation)
J
each
okogba
okogba
okpa.
cockcrow
okogba-'mbo
okogba-'mbo
okpa-ibe.
daylight
tshl-'nwho or tshi at
i6a do.
do.
sunrise
anyainwo-aftdna
dmo-awii
^mo-aw£i.
mid-day
etlte-ehitihe
do.
do.
sunset
tsbl-flle
tsbi-file
dmo-ad6.
evening
anyds
do.
do.
night
tshi-dji
tshi-dji
utshis.
day
ehlnhe or tsbl *
do.
do.
Both are equally correct.
42:2
APPENDIX.
Eaglhh.
Igho.
Ebdne. Neiv Kalabar.
h'inibe.
Oru.
water
mluyi
mingi minzi or minji
mindi
or migi
m^gi.
fire
nko
feue
f^udi
fini.
firewood
finyi
fiugia
fendia.
God
Orisa
T^mono *
Orisa
Orisa.
idol
djii-dju
dju-dju
owu,
owu.
house
ulo
wflri
wjlle
W'^le.
mat
•fite
bile
\xte
tite.
The comparisons of these words shew tolerably the relations
of the above dialects with the I'gbo.
The following numbers were given to Mr. Crowther and
myself by King Peppel ; as they were very carefully taken
down, they may be considered as tolerably authentic.
English.'^ Ebdne. I'g^o.
one ngd ote.
two nin^ abo.
three tere ^to.
four 6ni ^wo.
five sonua ese.
six siiniu isiu.
seven sonitlma dsa.
eight inine as^to.
nine esdni toili.
ten ati and oyi in.
^7z is used for "ten" in counting up or in reckoning, but when
it is employed to designate a specific number, as " ten men,'
oyi is selected. These numbers of King Peppel's correspond
pretty closely with those given by Koelle. The I'gbo numbers
all belong to the Isuama dialect, except toili, which appears to
resemble that of A'ro. For " thirty-six," Bonny people say
" forty without four."
; English.
I Hdusa.
cocJccrow
asubd
daybreak
dasdfe
about 8 A.M.
antbiu
noon
rfina-s^ka
about 2 P.M.
azabdr
„ 4 „
la dsev
sunset
almurli
about 8 P.M.
llsha
Pulo.
fajiri.
luha, wdluba.
n^ge-tsbdka.
zura.
alazdra.
mag^riba.
esbai.
Tbis seems to correspond witb Oiisa ratber than witb TshuJcu.
APPENDIX.
423
The following was given to me by Mr. Crowther as the best
division of the dialects of Tdruba.
1. Ydruba, including Ife.
2. Egba.
3. Ijebu.
4. Ijesha, including Ydgba. (This
might go with No. 2.)
5. Ota.
6. K^tu, spoken on the borders of
Dahomi.
7. Igbdma, near Niipe.
The purest Toruba is spoken by the Muhainmadans of
Ilorin. The dialect of Lagos is very impure. Abbeokiita is
E'gba.
DIALECTS OF HAUSA.
1. Katshlua, the purest and best.
2. KSino.
3. Goblr.
4. Daura.
5. Zdmfara.
6. Zuzu.
7. BirSiata Gobaz.
8. Kdbi.
'9. Shira or Shura.
Specimens of the Mitshi, and of the Ddma or Arago
languages have been published in the Appendix to Crowther's
Journal.
BAION WORDS.
The following, which have also been published by Dr.
Latham, in the " Proceedings of the Philological Society,"
I procured from a man a native of Baion, whom I met at
Clarence.
one
ntshi.
seventeen
tshabsamba.
two
iba.
eighteen
tsbdmfam.
three
it^.
nineteen
tshdbu.
four
ikwa.
twenty
gumba.
iive
ita.
( ikumbo or
six
ntowa or ntoko.
one hundred
\ nkumbo.
seven
samba.
a thousand
nddmbo.
eight
fim or mftim.
God
nsi.
nine
bli or mbu.
man
milla.
ten
wum.
woman
mtiugwe.
eleven
tshdmtshi.
hoy
mdn.
twelve
tshiikpa.
girl
gongoi.
thirteen
tshdpte.
father
taidm.
fourteen
tshdmkwa.
mother
mdwa.
fifteen
tshdbta.
head
td.
sixteen
tshamtoko.
eye
djiged^
424
APPENDIX.
hair
uu.
sword
nyi.
mouth
ntsh6.
bow
ntsh^t.
nose
ntshadiua.
arrow
nkontshet.
ear
tokodjilm.
hat
tBhdtu.
arm
bu.
cloth
ndl.
hand
l^nbo.
river
montshiuko.
finger
ofumbo.
town
la.
thumb
melogwa.
road
m^ndji.
leg
ddmku.
mountain
kokolonji.
foot
ntsheku.
rain
Leu.
King
mfdn.
wind
fulmbti.
master
tawon.
thunder
mfambe.
slave
nkwdm. ■
lightning
ndjim.
house
nd^.
good
b6nke.
war
bl.
bad
kaldn.
salt
ngwd.
hungry
ndji!
water
ntshi.
thirsty
faminyfi mS,kwe?
bread
ntshdn.
tired
mafum.
fish
ntshii.
tree
gum.
bird
mosln.
white
efuko.
fowl
ngu.
blade or blue
stie.
goat
mbl.
red
ib£in.
wood
nkwL
yes
nu.
spear
nkon.
no
g^nya.
On comparing" tliese words with Koelle's Bajon specimens in
the " Polyglotta African?," there can be no doubt of their
belonging to one common language, but representing different
dialects.
BATi WORDS.
The following I procured also at Fernando Po from a Bati
man, through a Baidn interpreter. The number of words is
very few, but I only saw the man for a quarter of an hour
before I left the place, and I had barely time to secure and
correct what are here given.
one
bankale.
niwe
bant^mba.
two
basi[mgu.
ten
bamb^nta.
three
bdsbit.
eleven
ballusa.
four
bangHbia.
twelve
biiDJiwo.
five
badumbonson.
thirteen
balamfenso.
six
banddn.
fourteen
bdnkit.
seven
Ijdndo.
fifteen
banwfirkam.
eight
bafulim.
sixteen
bdkwa.
APPENDIX.
srvc7}feen
b<xngola.
sun
uyo.
eighteen
b^ga.
moon
ndj^mtshi.
nineteen
baba.
river
monki utshi.
twe7Lty
bamandjo.
house
ndap.
God
miubua.
water
fawdnki.
father
t^ia.
yam
k6.
mother
m^.
425
These numerals must at once strike as being peculiar and
elaborate, but I am certain of their being correct. A few of
the words resemble the Baion, which is very probable, as Bati
and Baion border on each other. Under the head of BSyon,
Koelle gives a Pati dialect, which, however, does not at all
correspond with what are given above. In Petermann's Atlas
it is said that the Baci people are white ; but this is erroneous,
as the m.au I saw had a very black skin, and he told me all his
countrymen were the same.
D.
A fertile source of confusion and difficulty has arisen from
different travellers and writers having described the same place
or the same tribe by various appellatives, which, to the reader
not previously versed in African geography, must be productive
of endless trouble and mystery. Thus the Piilo race is known
in Bornii as Pulata, and in Hausa as Fulani ; English writers
often style them Eulo, and the French call them Peul. The
town of Lagos is by the natives known as E'ko, and by the
Portuguese as Onlu ; and Abo is variously entitled Eboe, Abe,
Opii and Abo'nta. To endeavour to clear up these points, I
have drawn up, partly from my own enquiries, partly from such
authorities as have been within my reach, the following lists
of synonymes, which catalogue the various names given to the
same spot or race by different people, and also the numerous
designations employed by travellers to denote the same place.
I have been careful to distinguish native and original
names ; and I trust the lists, which are necessarily rather long,
may assist the researches of geographers and philologists.
426
APPENDIX.
The Kwora or Niger is kno\A'ii at different parts of its
course by many distinct names, but the meaning of the greater
number appears to be "great river." It is very difficult to
select from these one general one, but perhaps Kwora is the
most advisable, as being more generally known. The spelling
I have adopted is that which accords most closely with the
pronunciation I heard from the natives, and it likewise
corresponds best with its derivation, which is either from the
Kauiiri word Kura, pi. wura, signifying " great," or else from its
flowing through a district named Kura. It is sometimes
styled Kw(5ra-ba, but chiefly among Muhammadan tribes, most
of whom have a smattering of Arabic, the word ha being the
Arabic hahr, sea or river, as Balir el ahiad, the White Nile.
Tor convenience sake I have divided the river into two
portions, the one above the Confluence of the Binue, and the
the other from the Confluence to the sea.
The Kwora (below the Confluence) is called —
Osimini, Osimini, ). .,, ,^, UjiQiini, in Igara.
. . ' -, . . } iiiAboandOru. , , _,
Ositturi, Osimiri, > QuOrra, „ AUeu s Lliart.
Anyim, in some parts of Igbo. Akassa-tdro, „ Nimbe.
tJzie, „ Sobo.
The mouth is known as the Nun, Non, or First Brass
Eiver.
The Kwora (above the Confluence) is called —
Nigeir (Ni7eip),
by Ptolemy.
Joliba,
by Park.
Niger, by ;
Nile of the Negroes,
ancient writers,
by Edrisi.
Dhioliba,
r by De Caillie
I and Jomard.
Quorra, Quolla, "i
by modern
Tembie and Bd,
by Jomard.
Kowiira, Kewdra, I
writers and
Dseue,
in Timbuktu.
Kowdra-ba, J
travellers.
Oya and Oddya,
„ Yoruba.
Couara,
by Jomard.
Furodi,
„ Nupe.
Guliba 'n Kowara, )
F^ri 'u rua, )
in Hdusa.
Edu,
Ehulobri,
in Bassa and Bonu.
in Igbira.
Ds^lba,
„ Bambara.
Ujiminifufu,
„ Ig^ra.
Ds6riba,
„ Geriwa.
Koara and Ghulby, by Dupuis.
Bahr Sud^n,
„ the Arabs.
Beuueh and 1 ,
Chadda-Benueh, J
Tsbiidda (Ts^dda), ,.
The Binue is called
r. i Dsdde,
Petermann. '
Lander.
by Koelle.
rr, , •■ 1 ^, 11 ) >> Allen and
Tcliadda,Chadda, j oidfield.
APPENDIX.
4.27
'}'
in Io;biia.
Shary, by Laird. Ilihu, Inhu,Liliu, '
Shadderbah, „ Macqueeu. Ehulogi,
Etshi, in Bonti. Nu, „ Kordrofa.
Fui'oji, „ Nupe. Ujimini dudu, ,, Igdra.
Biiki 'n rua, „ Hdusa, Chadee and Shady, by Dupuis.
I never could hear the name Zanfira mentioned by Barth
Mouths of the Kwdra.
1. Rio Formoso,
Benin River.
2 Rio dos Escravos, Esclavos,
Escriidos, Eseardos,
El Brodei', Brodero,
Brodi, Slaves River.
3. Rio dos Foreados,
Galley-Slaves River.
4. Rio Ramos,
Bough River.
5. Rio Dodo.
6. Pennington River.
7. Middleton River.
8. Winstanley Outfalls.
9. Sengdna or Segma,
Angdna.
10. Rio Nun or Nou,
First Brass River.
11. Brass River or Second Brass
River, St. John, Rio Bento,
Malfonsa, Oddy, Fonsoady.
12. Rio di San Nicolas,
Rio di Filana or Tilana,
Rio di Juan Diaz,
Sempta or Lempta.
13. Rio di Santa Barbara,
Rio Meas.
1 4. Rio di San Bartolomeo,
Rio dos tres Irmaos or
Jermaus.
15. Rio Sombreiro,
Sambreiro, Sombrero.
16. New Kalabdr, Kalebar, or Cala-
bar, New Calbary or Calebare,
Calbarine, Rio Real.
17. Bonny, Bani, Bandy.
18. Andoni, Andoney,
Rio di San Domingo,
Loitomba or Laitomba.
19. Kantoro,
Rio di Conde,
Rio San Pedro.
The Old Kalabar is also called —
Old Calebare or Calabar, Old Kalborgh and Oude Calborgh.
Pulo (pi. Piilbe) is called —
Fuldni, Filani, FuMdsi, in Hdusa.
Fulani, Filani, „ Yoruba.
Fuldta, Filata, „ Bornii.
Angoye, Angbdye, „ Igbira.
Silmira, „ More.
Kambumdna, „ Gur^n.
Tebdle & Gayi, in Bdkum, Baion, &c.
Abdte, in Kororofa.
Futo, „ Dsaham.
Biile, „ Mfut.
Adinyi, „ Borltsu.
Tebare, in Ndob or Burukera.
Tibar, „ Bdlu.
Agoi and Goi, ,, Dsumu and "khe.
Poula and Fula, by Clark.
Foulahs, Foules, Poules, by Mollien.
Fulahs, Peuls, by Golberry.
Falitahs, „ Lander.
FuUans, ,, Richardson.
Foblah and Felarney „ Old field.
Falatiya and Felatah „ Prichard.
Fallatah „ Macqueen.
428
APPENDIX.
The following list of states under Piilo rule applies only to
the Western Piilbe, or to those countries which are tributary
to So koto. It is correct so far as it goes, but I cannot say
whether it is quite complete, most probably not quite so.
Katshiua,
Shira,
MiCrma,
Kdno,
Katagum,
Doma,
Zdnfara,
Eoberu,
Kororofa (part)^
D^ura,
Hamaruiva,
Ntipe?
Zozo,
Adam^vva,
»^auri?
Biutshi,
Had^ja,
Busa]
Mes^u,
Hausa is one of the divisions of Arab geographers, and
originally its extent was much more limited than at present,
when it is held to comprehend all countries where tlie Hausa
tongue is spoken, namely : —
Katshina,
Mariidi,
Daura,
Kdno,
B^utslii,
Zdzo,
Gobir,
Zdnfara,
Zioa.
Hsiusa is called —
Ab^kpa,
{
in Igiira, Igbira,
and
Afuno,
in
Boi'nu.
Ddma.
Habddso,
by
the Piilbe.
Amogba,
„ Kororofa.
Abebere,
in
Kdro.
Mbd,gba,
„ Mitshi and Boritsu.
Para,
}>
Ds^ham.
Zangwdda,
„ Guren.
Oza,
))
Yasgiia.
Asia d si,
„ Kidmba.
Houssa, Housa,
1
by
various
K^udsi,
„ the.
Howssa,
writers.
Ade^bi,
„ Goili.
Haoussa,
»
Macqueen,
Abuno,
„ Kdnem.
The early Arab geographers divided Central Africa into
various regions, some of them defined in a more or less
arbitrary manner ; but as many of their designations are still
retained, it is of some importance to be able to recognize them,
with their varied orthographical forms and synonymes. Some
of these countries, as Hausa, have in modern times greatly
expanded ; others, as Takrur, have contracted ; and a few, like
Ghana, have nearly disappeared. "With these are associated
certain other names introduced by the modern Muhammadans,
of which the following are the priicipal:
APPENDIX.
429
Glidna, Gh^nab,
Ghauat, Ghan^ta,
Gualata? Wa]ata?
Jlaghardwa, Maghr^wab,
Magraoa,
Magaraoa, Magardua,
Magraua, Magaraba,
I^Iagarawa, Macburebii.
Inkizar,
Kissour 1
Kuku, KHukaii,
Kfigbo, Gdgo,
Kugbali, Karkar,
Cocbia, CiCuga]
Kduka, Gbow,
Gdro.
Kura.
Damlu, Ddmloo.
Mali, Meli,
Meli, Melli, Maly.
Gunjd, GhuDJdb.
Sarem.
Dagomba.
Inta, Intda.
Takrur, Tekrur,
Takrour, Tak-roor,
Tocrur.
Filldni, Fillany.
Marroa.
H^usa, Houssa,
Haoussa, Haowssa,
Afuu.
Bimbara,
Uugura,
Oonghdr, Oongooroo,
Gufiugara, Gflngara,
Owencdra, Vancaia,
Ougornou.
Kauem.
Yemyem,*
Ldmlem, Ljlmlem,
Ny^mnyem, N'yeinn'yeiii,
Rdmrem, D^mdem,
Al-Limiyin, N'yumnyiim,
Gnumgnuni, Nilinnam,
Temiam 1
Wdngara, "Wankaia.
Genewab,
Gbeneoa, Gbinea,
Cbinoia, Genni,
Guinea.
* Yemyem or N'y^mnyem is Bot, strictly speaking, the name of a
country, but was applied to a supposed race of cannibals, believed to live
on the southern borders of H^usa. The name is now confined to a district
situated between Bautshi and Boi'nu, or, more correctly, to its inhabitants.
The "Umburm, near Jacoba," mentioned by Sultan Bello, is probably the
district of Mbula or Umbiila, east from Bautshi.
Timbuktu, or Tumbuktu, is called-
Tumbutum, by Leo.
Tanbaktu, „ Ibn Batuta.
Tonbaktoo, „ Bello.
Timbuctoo, „ Authors.
Tumbactu, by Professor Lee.
Temboctou, „ Caillie.
Tymboctou, „ Jomard.
Teenbuktu, ., Richardson.
Agadez, or Agiiadez, is called —
Agdas in Sultan Bello's Map.
This place has been supposed, but on insufficient grounds,
to be the A'udaghost of Edrisi, -which was more probably
situated to the northward of Ghana.
430 APPENDIX.
Ahir, Ahe'er, or Air, is also called —
Asben, Azb^n, Asouty, Asouda, or Blad es-Sultan.
Grhadames, or Ghadarais, is called —
Gadamfiwa in Hausa. Ghodemis by Cooley.
Ardamas by De Caillie.
Tuarik, Tawarik, Touarik, pi. Touarghee, is called —
Azgher by Richardson. TawarfCk by Bello.
Sudan, Soudan, is called —
DarSud^n ^,_^,.._^._ Soodan by Bello.
Nigritia
Negroland
Belad el Sudan }by Arabs. ^.^^.^,^ } by older writers.
Imajaga is called —
Kandln in H^usa. Absin^wa in Bornu.
This last title is probably derived from a town named A'bsen,
situated towards Agadez.
Sokoto is called —
Sackatu in Bello's Map. Soccatoo by Clapperton & Oldfield.
Sokkattoo by Sir R. Donkiu. Succatou ^ ^^ Richardson.
Saccatoo by Macqueen. Sakkatou J
Kano or Kanu is called —
Cauo by Barbot Kanou by Richardson.
Kanoo by Bello.
Leo Africanus seems to confound this city with Ghana.
Katshina, or Kadzina, is called —
Kdtshina in Boruti. Catsheenah by Lander.
Chesena and Kasena by Leo. Kotshina and Cashna by Clark.
Kassene and Kasene „ Ogilly. Kashna by Clapperton & Macqueen.
Cassena and Ghana „ Barbot. Kasnah „ Bello.
Kachenah „ Cooley. Katshna „ Earth & Petermann.
Kdsiua „ Koelle. Kasslna ,, Dupuis.
Hadeja, or Hadeji, is called —
Hadega by Clapperton. Kliadedsha in Petermann's Atlas.
APPENDIX. 431
Gobir is called —
Ghoob^r, by Bello, Gobur, by Clark.
Ghouber, „ Richardson. Guber „ Petermann and Overweg.
Goober, „ Macqueen.
Maradi is called —
Mariadi, by Overweg. Maladi, by Koelle.
Gobir and Maradi are the only Hausa provinces which
remain independent.
Katagiim is called —
Kataktima by Ibn S'ald. Caancouma, by Hamaker,
Bautshi, Baushi, or Bdshi, is called —
Bowsher, in Bello's Map. Jacoba district, by Clark.
Boushy & Beetchee, by Clapperton. Bolobolo and Bolewa, „ Barth.
Bowchee, „ Lander.
Zuzu, Zdzo, or Zeze, is called —
Saiia, Zaria, 1 j. ., ,• /.. Zdra, bv Clark.
' ' }■ from its chief town. „ . ' t^ ,i / v
and Zalia, J Za-ri-ya, „ Bello, (map).
Zegzeg and Zegizdgi, in Hdusa. Z;iri, „ Clapperton.
Zigzag, by Bello.
Ziua is called—
Sina, in Petermaun's Atlas.
Haraariiwa is called —
Hamarrua, by Barth and Petermann. Ktindi, by the Djiiku.
Adamawa is the
Adamowa of the maps. Adamaua of Barth, Petermann, and
Adamla of Koelle. Richardson.
It has also been conjectured to be the Haudama of Ibn
S'aid, but this is very doubtful.
Takuba is the
Yacoba of Macqueen. .Tacoba of Oldfield.
Yakoba ,, Richardson, &c.
432 APPENDIX.
Bula, or Mbiila, is the
Uiubula of Petermann, possibly the Umburm of Belle and the Rdbtimd of
Ibn S'ald.
Bak'n dutslii of Hausa is Moriaii of the Djuku.
Bundii is the Bundang of Petermann's Atlas.
Kw6ntsha „ „ Kontsha „ „ „
Kw(5iia „ „ Kdana „ „ „
Tdngale ,, „ Tangare „ „ „
Bdtshama „ ,, Batshamba „ „ „
Bagirmi is called —
Bugai-mi, at Hamaiiiwa. Ibkarem by Ibn S'ald.
Begharmi, by Clark. BekarmI „ Cooley.
Bagrmi, „ KoUe. Baghermi „ Macqueen.
Fumbina is the Foobena of Macqueen.
Loggone, or Loggene, is called —
Loggun,byDenham& Macqueen. Lokone, in Bornu. Lagiin, by Richardson.
Zaafiira, or Zanfira, is the
Zamfra of Clapperton. Zanfarah of Bello.
Zumfra „ Lander. Zanfara, or Pharan, of Barbot.
Zamfari „ Clark. Zeffra of Mohammed Masini.
Zamfara „ Koelle.
Daura is the
Dowry, or Dor, of Bello. Doura of Clark.
Doula „ Koelle.
Tsad, or Tshad, is the
Tsade of Bornu. Shad of Macqueen.
TSdde „ Muuio. Dshade of Koelle.
Tchad „ Denham. Chad and Tschad of writers.
Kaniiri is the Kauowry of Clark.
Bornii is the
Burno, Borno, & Burney of Ogilby. Bino of Nupe.
Barnou of Bello. Kauiki of Ydi'uba, Sierra Leoue.
Birebire, Balebale of Hausa.
APPENDIX. 4:33
Minau is the Mauga or Minyo of Petermann'a Atlas, also
called Munio.
Kuyaini is the Koyain of Petermaun's Atlas.
Gaudiko is the Ganako of the Djuku.
Zhibii, Gaudiko, Gaukera, and I'bi, are the Katshara of the
Djiiku.
Kurdrofa, or Kororofa, is the
KoroiTofa of Earth. Gbkgban of the Bdritsu.
Koraorfa „ Bello's Map. Akpa „ „ Ig^ra and I'gbira.
Koi-a-raffa „ Bello's Narrative. Dsuku „ „ Koelle.
Ke, or Wlki, of the Tiwi.
"VVukari is the Okari of W. Allen.
Mitshi, or Mutshi, is the
Misi and MIsi of Doma & Akpoto. B^si of Afudu.
Tiwi, Midsi, & Mbidsi of Koelle. Akpa of Igdra, Igbo, Sierra Leone.
Gbalpu of Aglya.
Ddma, or Arago, is the Dauma of Ogilby.
Nupe is the
Nufe and Nyffee of writers. Th,kpa of Hdusa.
Noofee „ Bello. Tagba „ Y6ruba.
Noufee „ Richardson. Tapa, Tapna, & NufS, „ Clark.
Nufie & Nupaysee „ Oldfield. Tacwa and Nouffie „ Lander.
Nife „ the Gdali. Tapua „ Latham.
Anup^ri „ t^he. Yowi or Yiifi „ IbnS'aid.
E'be is the Amipe of Hausa and Barba, the Agalati of the
Kambale.
E'gga is also called E'ga and I'go.
Yaiiri or Tawiiri is the
Ya-ori of Bello. Youri of Clapperton.
Yoouri „ Clark. Yaoori „ Macqueen.
Yaoorie „ Lander. Yaouri „ Mohammed Masini.
Liver is the
Lever of Lander and Beecroft. Layaba of its inhabitants.
Biisa is the
Boosa of Lander. Boussa of Clapj^erton.
Boossa „ Mohammed Masini.
434 APPENDIX.
Mandenga is tlie Mandingo of authors.
Jdlof is the
Gelofe, or Jalofe, of Barbot. Jalaf of Ogilby.
Also Wolof, Woloff, OuollofF.
Barba, or Ibarba, is the
Bargu of Hdusa. Bargho of Bello.
Biso „ ilhe.
Yoruba is called —
Yiriba by Hausa. Yekoo by Dupuis.
Yarriba „ Latham. Ayaji „ Niipe.
Oyeo „ Barbot. Anagonu or Inago „ Popo.
Aku in Sierra Leone. Aypnu „ Dabdmi.
E'ko is the
Lagos of the maps. Onin of the Portuguese.
Kakanda is also pronounced Kakandi, Kakiinda, and
Kakundya.
Bonu is probably the Puna of Clark.
Ishabe is the Shabi and Shabee of Clark.
Basa (at the Confluence) with Akiiya is the Akandsa or
Kakandsa of Igara.
Dsumu, or Idsumu, is the
Ak6ya of B^sa. Abinu of Anupe.
Oworo is called —
Eydgi by Nupe. ;&gbe by Yoruba.
Akandsa „ IgiCra.
Ki, or Eki, with Dsiimu, and Oworo, is the
Akuya of B^sa. Kak.inda and \ ~ UA^^n
Bonu „ Nupe. Ganagdna J
Ishdbe „ Igbira and Igdra. Kakandsa „ Igbo.
Abitshi is the
Abushi or Bishi of W. Allen. Beeshee of Oldfield.
APPENDIX. 435
Ajewon-Igbira is the
Rdgan-Koto of Hdusa. Djashi-Agbira of Dj6ku.
Pumdvo „ Mitshi.
A'kpa is the Akbah of W. Allen.
Oketta is the Aketo of W. Allen.
Ikereku is the
Cheraku or Karuko of W. Allen. Corracu of Oldfield.
Yimaha is called —
Yimasha in Hdusa. Immoshah by W. Allen.
Yimmahah by Laii'd.
Odokodo is the
Addakudda and "1 ^ t • . t Adda-Kuddu of Allen and
Addah-Kuddah J ' ' Thomson.
Addacoodah „ Oldfield.
I'gbira- Panda, also
fgbira-Ihi, Igbii-a-Odo, and Igbira-Igd or Egti, or simply Igbira, is the
Igbfila of Mitshi. Egbira, figura, i
Igberra „ Clark. Egbira-Pande, V of Koelle.
Birrah „ W. Allen. and Opanda, J
Kotoonfanda „ Bello's Map.
Panda is the
Fundah of Laird. Opdnda of Koelle.
Fandah „ W.Allen.
E'kpe (Epe) is the A'fo of Ddma and Hausa.
Egu or Igii is the
Koto'n Kdrifi of Hdusa. ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ f of Laird and
Kotun Karfee „ Bello. L Lander.
Kuttum Karifi „ Allen's Chart. F ' h / " -^^^^^ ^^'^
Kattam Karifi „ W. Allen. I Thomson.
I'gbira-Sima, also
Igbira-Shima, Igbira-Sdima, and fgbira-Iddd, is the Igbira-Hima of KoUe.
Mount Pate is the
Patteh of Allen's Chart. Lukdsa of Kakdnda.
F F 2
436 APPENDIX.
Mount Soracte is also named E'tse.
Beaufort Island is also named Barraga.
Okiri, or Ikiri, is the
Iccory of Oldfield. Bocqua of Lander.
Ikdri „ McWilliam. Bokweh „ Allen's Chart.
A'kpoto is the Akwottia of Allen's Chart.
Igara, Igala, or Igana is the
Atagarra of Bello's Map. Egarra, Igarra, \ ^^ q^^j.]^^
Eggarah „ W. Allen. and Igalla, J
Eggarra „ McWilliam.
Attd and Attah-<
Idda is the
of Laird and Iddah of Allen and Thomson.
Oldfield.
"Wifa is the Wappa of Allen and Thomson.
Ada-mugu is the
Damuggoo of Laird. Damagu of McWilliam.
Ado or Edo is the Edii or Idu of Abo.
I'gbo (I'bo) is the Hackbous of old writers.
I'tshi, or Mbritshi, is the Bretshi of Clark.
Asaba is the
Kirree of Lander and Oldfield. KiiTi of McWilliam.
Kiri Market of Allen's Chart. Asabaa of Hutchinson.
Ossamare is the
Atchimary of Oldfield. Asamarae of Allen & Thomson.
E'lugu, E'nugu, or I'lugu, is the Olugu of Clark.
Isielu is the Isiolu of Yala.
Isuama, or Isii, is the
Isoama of Koelle. Iswdma of Yala and of Clark.
Ogone is called Egane in Okiiloma.
A'ro or A'no is the Aaru of Clark.
APPENDIX. 437
Abd is the
Eboe of Laird, Lander, & Oldfield. Ah6 of NImbe, Orti, & BIni.
Ibu and Eboe of Allen's Chart. Ilbbe „ Oktiloma.
Abdh „ Schou. Aho 'bd, and \ ^ , ,, ^m yi
^ , '' .,„,("» Oru & Okuloma.
Opu „ Igdra. Abo ku. )
Mb(5hia is the
Ikp6fia of Okiiloma. Akp6fia of Orii.
Korotumbi (AUeu and Thomson) is the
Little Ibu of Lander, Laird, & Allen. Abo 'nt^ of Okuloma and Oru.
Wari is the
Warree of Beecroft. Dowerre, Awerri, "i
Ouwerre „ Ogilby. Ouwerri, Oveiro, ^of Barbot.
Forcados, J
Angiama is the
Ingiamah of Allen's Chart. Hyammah of Lander & Oldfield.
Orii is called —
Ejd & Esd, by Nimbe, Bini, & Ebdne. Udso and Utso, by Koelle.
Aru and 'Njo, by Clark.
Bini.
Oedo of Barbot and old authors. Benin of maps.
Benyn of Ogilby.
Ijebii is the
Jaboe of Barbot and Ogilby. Jaboo of traders.
Dsebu „ Koelle.
Agaton is the
Gotton, Agatton, & Hugato of Barbot. Gatto of traders.
Tshekeri is the
Sen^ima of Nimbe. Dsekiri of Koelle.
Iwini „ Abd.
Tuw(5a is the
Brass-town of charts. Twa of English traders.
438 APPENDIX.
Nimbe is the
N^mbe or Ddmbe of Oiu. Itebu of Abd.
Numbe of Clark. Brass „ traders.
New Kalabar is called —
Andn and B6m in Igbo. Kanibari, Kalabari, in Ozuzu.
Karabar „ Oni. Okuliibur by Clark.
Karab^ri „ Ebane. New Calabai-, and't
' 1— traders.
Young Calabar
Ebane is the
Obane of Igbo. Bandy, Bany, of Barbot.
Ib^ne „ New Kalabar. Bonny „ traders.
Bani ,, Ogilby.
Okuloma (town) is tlie
Okuloba of Nimbe. Kuleba of Ogilby.
Osimini-ku „ Ab<5. Okulome „ Clark.
Culebo „ Barbot. Grand Bonny- town „ traders.
Okrika is the
Krike of Ogilby. Akrika, Egriki, of Clark.
Cricke „ Barbot. Creeka and Young Creeka „ traders.
Nddki is the
Mina of Ebdne. Oqua of Clark.
Okwa „ Igbo. Okua „ Koelle.
Ogobendo is the Bende of Okuloma,
E'fik is called —
:6fi, by Igbo. Karaba by Clark.
Efiki „ Ebiine. Old Kalabdr,!
Bie a?KZ Bibie ? 1 _ „ or Calabar, J » *^'^*^^^"^-
J Tu-i - r.> Koelle.
and Ibibia, J '
Akuna-Kuna is also pronounced Akura-Kura.
Egbo-Shari is called —
Um^nyi in Igbo. Ibibio in llfik.
Omun is the
Okr^ of Y5,la. Idrdga of its inhabitants.
APPENDIX. 439
Tala is called —
Amdni in fgbo. Ola^ in Akam.
Its people are called Olalapide in I'gbo.
The people of Agauyi are called A'kpa in Yala.
Baion is the
Bayung of Clark. Bayon of Koelle.
Ndob is the
Burukem of Kororofa & MItshi. Mbrukim 1 of ^fik.
Cameroon is the
Diwalla of the Natives. Eh^la of Ngdten and NhaleiHoe.
Niwira „ Mom^nya.
The Femandians are the
Adeeyah (Adiya) of Thomson. Bubi (Boobi) of traders.
Badagry is called —
Agbddaylgi in Ydruba, also Bakagli.
Porto Nuovo is the
Aj^she of Yoruba, Hagbonu of its people, and also Z^m.
P^po is the
Ad^ho of its inhabitants. Egun of Y6ruba.
Hwida is the
'''^^ \ of its people. ™^' O^'^^^' ^'^^' \ of Barbot.
, J and Juyda, J
Greghwee 1 of Macqueen. Whida, Whidah, \ ^^ ^j-aders.
and Whydah, J
Qrewhe and
Grefe
Akra is the
Accra of charts. Nkrdn of the Fanti.
Asanti is the
Ashantee of maps. Kambon (pi. Kam- "1 ^^ Gur^n.
Kambuse „ More. benza) J
44U
APPENDIX.
Kr^be (pi. Krjibo) is the
Gr^bo of Clark.
Grebo, Cru, and
Crumau,
]"
f Latham.
Kr^bo of Koelle.
Krumen and "1
Fishmen J
of traders.
Native names of tlie Km towns.
Little Kru,
Irufa.
Grand Cestos,
Segldo.
Settra Kru,
W6te.
Rock-Town,
T^ke.
Kru-bar,
Nimb^o.
Fish-Town,
Wl
Nanna Kru,
MaMo.
Garaway,
Widgbo.
Kiug Will's Town,
Wido.
Cavalley,
Bdwo.
River Cestos,
_^ Nipua or
L Nipoe.
Cape Palmas,
f Biiiue-lu or
\ Qbiimle.
Town at its Mouth,
Nigb^e.
Native Town th(
3re, B^ine.
Little or Piganino Cestos, Bit^o.
Several places along the Krii coast have a name variously
spelt, Cestos, Sestos, Sesters, or Cess. I have been unable to
satisfy myself vrhich is the correct one. Barbot says they got
the designation from Cestos, a Portuguese word, meaning a
kind of pepper, which was plentiful, but I have not been able
to trace the word. Mr. Norris suggests that the word may be
" Sestro," the left, an old Portuguese word, derived from the
Latin sinister. If so, they were probably named by navigators
because these places were situated on the left hand while
sailing southwards ; but they may have been named from
baskets (cestos) of pepper, which is not improbable.
Names of places between the Confluence of the Biuue and
Paro, and ZhibtJ, from a Piilo trader.
Bundu.
B61a.
Adamflwa.
BsCtshama.
Keumi.
Hftma, i. e. Hamaruwa.
Tambul.
Kjia (the Chief of :&rima.)
Garin (probably Gorin, in
Djandurode.
Adam^wa).
Belal.
Ddmsa.
Zhibu.
Towns between Zhibvi
and Anyishi.
Zhibu. Pia.
Ayakii.
Wukdri. Arufu.
Akwona.
APPENDIX.
Ul
Names of places between Zhibu and Wukari
Gankdra
Zhibii.
I'bi.
G^ndiko,
Wuzhfri.
Hfinue.
A\
Mitshi.
Faglinke.
Bdibai.
Short route from Hamaruwa to Tola, five long days.
Hamaruwa.
1. Wurabeli, a Pulo village behind L^u.
2. Gowoi.
3. Zdna, passed during the night on account of the natives.
4. Tahlru, a village belonging to Lawal.
5. Wtiro-Alahdji, close to
6. Tola.
Long route, Hamaruwa to Tola, fourteen days.
Under the direct rule of the
Sultan of Hamariiwa.
1. Zhini,
2. ;6rima,
3. Zongo'u Kdwo,
4. Akdm,
5. Zdngo'n Kengi,
6. Gangtime.
7. Zongo'n d(jka.
8. Kogi'n bab^.
9. Zlifin garigflri.
10. Kwontsha : the Governor is Muhama 'Ngabldo, a Piilo.
11. Liiro.
12. Dardio.
13. Hamedti, governed by Lawal's brother.
14. Tola.
Hamaruwa to Yakuba, five days, first halt at Jebjeb.
The route from Dali to Yakuba leads through Dampara
and Wazai.
2 days.
4 — 5 days.
24 days,
3 days.
1 long day, halt at Zti.
5 — 6 hours.
2 days,
fa day and a half, halt at
Zhibu
to
;6rima,
t>
Gomkoi,
„
)>
Stiutai,
Gdmkoi
Aldnge,
Zhibii
Wukiiri,
Gjlndiko
j^
Anyishi
Kw6ta,
>'
Kedua,
Wukiiri,
R6gan-k6to „
Kedna,
r 3 — 4 days' route through Ak -
I wona, Arlifo, and Afidi.
r a day and a half, halt at
I Tufiye.
1.2
APPENDIX.
Rout from Ik^reku to Panda,
4 days.
„ „ ,, „ Doma,
10 days.
, Ei^ku „ Ik^reku (new),
1 hour.
, „ „ Ik^reku (old),
6—7 hours.
, Amarin „ Iddd,
6 days.
, Old Ik^reku to Akpata,
1 day, NNW.
, P^nda to Abishi,
1 day, NW.
„ Ikpe,
half a day.
„ Abishi „ Toto,
1 day, NNE.
Towns between O'jogo
and Doma.
Ttinga.
Kh-^yi.
Ke^na C).
Kadordko (')
K^ndoko.
Kowiira.
KaMshi,
D(5ma (').
Giza (').
Those marked (') are large towns
Slave routes to the coast.
Omodi^o (in !&lugu).
Ngwd.
Abdja.
Ndoki.
Esomeran.
Ebane.
Ogob^ndo.
Ogti (in Isudma).
2.
Ngwa.
Ingvdu.
Ndoki.
Niv^se.
Ebdne.
Ldnkwo.
Eoute of a slave from Baidn to the Cameroon river.
James Liloben (Tamunku), native of Baion, caught when a
boy in a war with 'Ngolam, a contiguous country, but speaking
a different dialect. ' Sold iu Bandem, distant a day's journey,
thence sent half-a-day's journey to Dokate, and again a long
day's journey to Bam. Next sold at Yagbasi, half-a-day's
journey off, and sent a day and a half to Bdnkoi, where he
escaped and ran two long days to Bidema, from which place he
came five or six hours by canoe to E'gbo or A'gbo, and, finally,
one day more by canoe to 'Nfai or Cameroon. 'iSTfai is the
E'gbo name for the Cameroon : the language of E'gbo resembles
the Diwalla.
APPENDIX. 443
In Baidn and Bati the people are warlike. Clotli is woven by
the inhabitants, but some use coverings of leaves ; the bouses
are all round. The Baion people are not cannibals, but in
war they cut off the heads of their slain enemies and dry
them.
Names of Baidn towns.
Basauga, Basankte, Banka, Basi, Bale,^, Batja, Buna, Bulon,
Bamanu, Bandebla, Bandem, Bandyo, Bawuii, Balenyo,
Bamoko, Bandesa, Banem, Bakobi, Balikem, Bafan, Ibuento,
Babadi, Bamunjo, Bati, Bagan, Bagbo, Bandjindjo, Igbdgba,
Bakom, Bawo, each of which towns has its own chief.
These were all my informant could remember ; it will be
observed that with hardly an exception the initial letter in all
is the same.
Names of towns in E'lugu.
Onitsha, Obiinkar, Mbo-aja or Mbaja (meaning large
country), U'bri, Updm, Opose, Akeyza, Isiagum, Adeliigbo,
Opanka, A'da, Ihiie, Ldpa, Utru, Isudtshi, Ndawa, Loyan,
Abaja, Agoro, Obdye, Esu-ukun, Mbrumbu, Abayan, Lofuja,
Isupuato, 'Ngddo, Gmodidko, Esomeran, and Omiiinsi, of
which last the inhabitants are said to be very short and very
stout.
Towns in Isuama.
Ossamare, Mima, A'wo, Mohinu, Osuniriaua, Ogii, Nivese,
I'ngulu, A'wo, Amuzuri, Mbedi, TJbago ? Umandha, Amis.
Towns in Abd.
Oko-ala, a day's journey up the Abd creek, I'buku, O'ko,
Asaka, Utagba (large), A'fo, Ibredi, Anyama.
Kings of Panda.
1. Malegedd, the founder.
2. Id6ko, about 1819 or 1820.
3. Akosa.
4. MamaUfia, about 1825 or 1827.
5. Itodo.
6. Abulia, during Laird's visit in 1832 ; a bad ruler.
7. Ad^ke.
8. Oyigtx, slain by the P61be in 1854 : unpopular.
9. Og^-a, or Mohamma, grandson of the first king; succeeded in 18.54.
444
APPENDIX.
Malegedu was a native of Koto 'u Karifi, whence he emi-
grated to Tdto, before commencing to build Panda.
Muhammadan
1. Baglrmi
2. Adamdwa
3. Hamariiwa
4. Gombe .
5. Born6
6. Shira .
7. Katagu
8. M^rma .
9. Hadeji
10. K^no .
11. Awdyo
12. Kasawurfli
13. DiCura
14. Katshina
15. Zdnfira
16. Gobiri
17 Bjiutshi
18. Z(jzo
19. Damudu
20. Nupe
21. Ilprin
22. Yauri .
23. K^bi
24. Sdkoto .
States in Central Africa, and their rulers.
Saraki 'n Baglrmi.
Lflwal.
Mohdmma.
Koirdnga.
Sumanli.
Abduramdui.
Daukadwa.
Mobiimma.
Bobdri.
Sumanti.
Sflmbo.
D^mbo.
Zubelru.
Mobiimma Bello.
Mamadii.
Ali.
Ibrabima.
SIdi.
Bflja.
Dflsaba.
Abdusa.Mmi.
Tbita.
Sdraki 'n K^bi.
Alibii, Sdraki 'n Musulmin, or
Sultan of tbe FaitbfuL
This list was taken verbatim from the mouth of our friend
Ibrahim or Saraki'n Hausa at Hamaruwa. In two instances
his memory failed him, but rather than leave a blank he desired
me to write down Saraki with the name of the state, Saraki
meaning king. These names diifer somewhat from those of
Eichardson in " A Mission to Central Africa," vol. ii. p. 189,
and also from those of Dr. Earth, in Petermann's Atlas.
Kings
of Ebane.
1. Pdpa.
2. Zbidie, bis sou.
3. Pellkoli, bis son,
tbe 1st King P^ppel
4. Fum^ra „ „
,, 2Dd „
5. Optibu „ „
„ 3rd „
6. Bribo ,, cousin
„ 4th „
7. D^ppa, son of Optibu „ 5t,h
APPENDIX. 445
He succeeded on April 9th, 1847, and was deposed in
February, 1854 ; when he was temporarily replaced by another
Dappa, w^ho died suddenly in 1855.
By late letters from Fernando Po, I learn that King Peppel
or Dappa has been freed from aU restraint, and is at liberty to
go where he chooses.
Tlie Old Ebaue Week.
1st day, Eseu-iuiadi. 5th day, Es<5ne-Kinadi.
2nd „ Es^ue-sduadi. 6th „ ?
3rd „ Eseue-Suniidi. 7th „ ?
4th „ Es^ue-SuuanitidL 8th „ ?
I got these names from King Peppel, but he gave
them with some hesitation, and he could not recollect the
last three.
The Map which accompanies this volume has been very
carefully reduced by Mr. Arrowsmith, from the large chart
which he has prepared for the Admiralty from Mr. May's
drawings. The large chart gives, on a scale of half-an-inch to
a mUe, merely the courses of the river as far as we went, with
the countries immediately adjoining, but in the smaller one the
upper part of the Kvvdra, as far as Eabba, has been adapted
from Allen's Survey, and the coast line and mouths of the rivers
have been inserted from Denham. The mouth of the Cameroon
river is from Capt. W. Allen, and Fernando Po from the most
recent Admiralty Charts. The principal difficulty experienced
was with regard to the Old Kalabar, of which there has been
no actual survey. The Cross river was ascended by Beecroft,
and the river was laid down by Dr. King, and we have employed
his latitude for Duke Town as being the only available one.
Consequently we have had somewhat to adapt the estuary of
the river to this latitude. In the Kwdra itself Capt. Denham's
position of the mouth, which dift'ers considerably from Allen's,
has been assumed as correct, but above that all the points were
ascertained for ourselves. The principal alterations made in
the lower parts of the river are moving Abo eight miles further
south, as several meridian altitudes of the sun taken by
Mr. May invariably gave the same result. The position of the
416 APPENDIX.
Confluence has been altered a good deal from that originally
assigned to it ; in the Map it approaches much more nearly to
that given to it hf the expedition in 1841, but is not quite so
far west. In the Binue everything beyond Dagbo is of course
quite new. The furthest good observation was taken at Djin,
in latitude 9° 22' north, and longitude IP 25' 7" east ; our last
point, namely Diilti, is not perfectly fixed, as the observa-
tions taken there were interrupted and consequently imperfect,
still it cannot be very far out. All the positions determined
during the ascent were checked by fresh observations during
the return voyage, when, however, very few alterations seemed
to be required. The positions of places near the upper Binue,
differ about a degree and a half from those given in Peter-
mann's Atlas, but these changes correspond very well with the
corrections in the longitude of lake Tsad, recently determined by
Vogel. Dr. Earth has informed me that the positions of places
towards Tola, sent home by him, were assigned by bearings,
starting originally from places which have since been proved to
have been very incorrectly fixed. I am glad, however, to have re-
ferred to this Atlas, that I may mention of what service it proved
to us, and that I may record my testimony as to the amount
and general correctness of the information it contains. During
July, August, and September, all the meridian altitudes taken
were of the moon, 'of planets or of stars, as all the observations
being taken with' an artificial horizon, during these months the
sun was too high to be within the scope of the sextant. The
first occasion on which Mr. May was able to obtain a sun's
meridian altitude, was on the I8fch of October, at Oketta, not
far above the Confluence. A list of the principal latitudes and
longitudes determined will be subjoined in a tabular form.
Throughout the I'gbo country, every place has been noted
for which a probable locality could be given, but, of course,
such positions are only inserted provisionally. 1 have dis-
carded a supposed connecting branch of the river from above
Abo to Bonny, as I can find no evidence for it, and the testi-
mony of the natives I examined gave no grounds for believing in
its existence. I am perfectly certain that there is no direct com-
munication there. All places marked without absolute authority
have after them a note of interrogation. On the western side
APPENDIX. 447
of the river there is certainly no affluent higher up than the
Wari branch, and Abo may be looked as situated at the
extreme apex of the Delta. Takuba has been placed on the
evidence of Dr. Vogel, who visited it last year, Prom Dr.
Petermann I have just learnt that this traveller has recently
sent some further important geographical results, including tlie
following latitudes and longitudes, which may, he considers, be
depended on, the former within two minutes, and the latter
within five minutes :
Guj^ba (in Boruu) . . .11° 29' 40" N. 11° 39' 0" E.
G^bbei (on the frontier of Bornii,
the Gebbeh of Earth)
G(5mbe (in Boberu) . . . 10° 49' 0" „ 10° 16' 0"
^'^^'jir 4' 10" „ 11° 20' 0"
The only other point to which I wish to allude is the position
of Cape Pormoso. I was somewhat puzzled by the dis-
crepancies of the various published maps and charts, some
placing this much to the eastward, others to the westward of the
Nun. Not being able to satisfy myself otherwise, I began to
search the earlier records, aud finding them pretty unanimous
in favour of the western locality, I determined to follow their
decision. In this I difter from several persons whom I have
consulted, and in particular from one whose opinion is so
deservedly of authority as Mr. Arrowsmith, who holds, as the
older charts were not laid down from ^^actual survey, and as
the most projecting portion of the coast is to the eastward of
the river, that the name ought to be retained for that spot.
But, again, as the projection there is far from decided, and I find
some of the voyagers actually naming the coast between the
Nun and the Sengana as being the Cape, I believe that the land
in that direction has the right of priority, and ought not there-
fore to be deprived of its title. Besides, the question is what
was originally called the Cape, and not what ought geo-
graphically to have borne the name. The "Brass-Town" of
charts, Mr. May ascertained during his visit there to be
properly called "Tuwdn;" it is merely a small village, the
true " Brass Town " or Nimbe being from 30 to 35 miles from
the sea.
4. is
APPENDIX.
Table of Latitudes and Longitudes.
Places.
Lat. N.
Loug. E.
Agbdri . . . . •
5° 14' 41"
Abd
5° 31' 16" .
. 6° 29' 11"
Asab^ . . . . .
6° 11' 16"
Ada-mugu . . . .
6° 31' 12" .
. 6° 39' 23"
Idd^
7° 6' 2" '.
. 6° 42' 14"
South end of Shuter Island .
7° 17' 46" .
lub^gbe
7° 44' 33" .
. 6^ 44' 27 "-5
Atipo . . . . .
r 50' 53" .
. 6^ 49' 1.--5
Little Harriet Island
7° 55' 30" .
. 7° 2' 56" -5
Yimalia ....
7° 59' 14" .
. 7° 9' 47"
Oketta ....
8° 2' 34"
West end of Bay Islands .
8° 1' 15" .
. 7° 29' 5 "-5
Abatsho
8° 1' 0" .
. 7° 35' 23"
Dagbo ....
r 59' 30" .
. 7° 53' 41"
Akpoko ....
7° 55' 34" .
. 8° 5' 22"-5
Ojogo
. 7° 45' 8" .
. 8° 28' 31" -5
R6gan-Kdto .
r 45' 45"' .
. 8° 40' 12"-5
Anyishi ....
7° 52' 46" .
. 9° 4' 51 "-5
G^ndiko ....
. 8° 10' 39" .
. 9° 42' 7 "-5
Zhibti ....
8° 18' 32" .
. 9° 56' J7"
Point Lynslager
. 8° 43' 17" .
. 10° 32' 27 "-7
Gurowa ....
. 9° 8' 36"
. 11° 0' 37"-4
Djlu ....
9° 22' 0" .
. 11° 25' 7" -4
Diilti
9° 27' 0"? .
. 11° 30' 0" ?
I had intended to have added a list of observations for
variation of the compass, but unfortunately the paper contain-
ing these has been mislaid, and Mr. May, who possibly may
have a copy of the document, has been obliged to leave for the
East Indies.
I was furnished with " Barrow's Circle," for ascertaining
the dip of the needle, but unfortunately was not able to
make many complete series of observations, several having been
interrupted by the curiosity, &c. of the natives, by heavy rain,
and other unforeseen accidents. The only sets on which I can
place much confidence are the following :
1. Opposite K^nde, lower Binue, on a sand-bank, 12th August, 1854.
between 10-30 and 1125 a.m., and 12-50 and 1-50 p.m. Wind
S.S.W. 1—3. Therm. 84°— 94° F. Barom. (aneroid) 29-86- 2995.
Weather b, c. Dip, 6° 6' 58".
APPENDIX. 449
2. On the sandy shore at Ojogo, 25th August, between 630 and 8'15
A.M. Wind 0. Therm. 73°— 77° F. Barom. (aner.) 29-79— 29-845.
Weather b, c. Dip, 4° 37' 8".
3. At Zhibii, on a grassy bank, 9th September, between 6 '45 and 8 a.m.
Wind W. 2. Dip, 5° 59' 22".
This last I place but little coDfideuce in. It is the result
ouly of a partial set of observations, and the dip was doubtless
increased by the interruption which compelled ine to stop,
which was being surrounded by from sixty to eighty natives,
each of them carrying ii-on weapons. I tried to make them
lay down their arms at a considerable distance, but being by
myself, was only partially successful, as fresh arrivals were
constantly taking place : the vibration of the needles was so
great and so varied, that it became impossible to obtain a
reading.
During the greater of the river voyage, meteorological
observations were taken every three hours during the twenty-
four, the only interruptions being when I was on shore. These
included registers of pressure, temperature of air, moisture,
temperature of water, wind, clouds, weather, and general or
remarkable phenomena, rapidity of the current, ^'c. I was
furnished with two marine barometers by Adie, which proved
to be excellent instruments. I had also two Aneroids, which
though always more sensitive, yet generally corresponded well
with the mercurial instruments. Moisture was ascertained by
the wet and dry bulb thermometer. On the 21st of September,
1854, I took a series of twenty-five hourly observations. I
have as yet found it impossible to go over and check the whole
series, and so can now only state the general results. The
barometers seemed to be very little affected by change of
weather, the difference between rainy and diy days being but
slight, and the occurrence of a tornado appeared to exercise
hardly any influence. Two daily maxima and minima were
invariable and Avell marked. The maxima occurred at from
9 to 10 A.M. and p.m., and the minima about 4 or 4"30 a.m.
and P.M., the morning minimum being generally rather earlier
than the afternoon one. The daily range of the barometers
450 APPENDIX.
was about '05 to '07 of an inch on the mercurial barometers,
and from '07 to "09 on the Aneroids. The extreme range of
the barometers was from 30'23 at the mouth of the river, to
2977 at the upper part of the Binue, both these being maxima
readings. This would tend to show that the river has no great
descent, but flows along nearly level country, which is also to
be inferred from other appearances. "Working by a rule given
in one of the volumes of the " Journal of the Geographical
Society" for the Aneroid barometer, I could only find an
elevation of 119 feet at the Confluence, and 268 feet at O'jogo;
but these results are, I should suppose, too low, yet there can
be no question that the Binue and the lower part of the united
rivers flow along a very level valley.
Tlie extremes of temperature were from 69° to 97° F., the
former being the morning temperature, in October, and the
latter the extreme in the shade during the commencement of
the dry season. The arerage mid-day temperature was from
82° to 84°. The coldest period during the day was from
4 to 5 A.M. The temperature of the surface water of the river
varied from 79° to 84°, the average being 81°.
E.
DistiVigiiishing 7}iarks of different tribes.
Tatooing, or marks on various parts of the body, is used
chiefly by the Pagan races, the Muhammadans generally
avoiding this practice, which they term " Shushiia."
Trihe. Marks.
Ori'i. A straight, very promioent line along centre of fore-
head, and upper part of nose ; three lines extending
diagonally across the cheek from inner angle of eye ;
other varied marks on chest and arms.
Nimbe. Six short perpendicular incisions between eye and ear.
Abd. Males. — Three short perpendicular cuts on each temple,
and three short horizontal lines across upper part of
APPENDIX. 45 1
Tnhe. Marks.
nose, between the eyebrows. Females — the same on the
nose, but with six perpendicular lines on the temples.
Elugu. Six perpendicular lines in front of the ear.
Aro. From ten to twelve shoi't horizontal lines just before
the ear.
Ozuzu. Three rows of minute lines from ear to angle of eye,
the middle row straight, the two others curving towards
it ; two curved lines of small incisions from lobe of ear,
curving along cheek to end of lines at eye ; two short
rows of similar lines under eyes towards nose ; a line of
similar incisions down forehead and nose.
■Mtl /l 1, • r Numerous extensive but varied cicatrices on forehead.
Mbritshi J
Asaba Thi-ee perpendicular lines along breast and belly, centre
one straight, the othei's curved ; one line behind,
following curve of armpit, and going downwards ; seven
short perpendicular incisions on forehead ; curved row
of small lines under each eye.
Agato. Three spots, arranged triangularly, with base upwards,
on temple.
Yoruba. Markings only partially iu use; some have several rows
of fine lines along the cheeks.
Basa 1 Two or three broad curved lines from temple to
(Confluence) J chin.
Bonu. Same as B^sa, but crossed by several fiue lines.
Ishabe. Four broad lines along each cheek.
I'jkvA. Marking not practised.
Igbira. No distinctive mark.
Nupe. Markings partial ; a short line, slightly curved, from
near inner angle of eye, proceeding diagonally about two-
thirds across cheek.
Bdsa (on the "
Binue).
D6ma. Markings vary. Some employ ten or twelve fine
curved Hues along the cheek. In Keana, many, especially
among the females, have two rows of fine perpendicular
lines under each eye.
Mitshi. Short perpendicular cuts over each eyebrow ; a curved
incision on each cheek ; and various devises on breast and
arms.
Kororofa. Ear-lobes pierced with large holes; among B.libai far
up the river, nvimerous irregular cuts on upper arm.
_ , ' \- Numerous curved lines along cheeks.
Loggone. J
Mandara. Curved lines along angle of jaw; fainter lines along
cheek.
Daura. Two horizontal cuts opposite mouth.
No particular mark.
1.5:2 ■ APPENDIX.
I'rihf. Marks.
Mai'iidi. A long line along cheek.
Gobir. One horizontal lino opposite mouth.
J^fik. Three round spots on each temple.
Krdbo. One broad line down centre of forehead and nose ;
arrow-head on each temple, with point towards eye.
Cameroon. A mark adopted of late resembliug that of Kriimen.
The marks which I have here given for Maradi and Gobir
differ from those mentioned by Eichardson iu the " Mission
to Central Africa," vol. ii. p. 222.
The collections of natural history made during the voyage
though not very extensive, have as yet been but very partially
examined, my time having been fully occupied by other matters.
A brief notice of them vi'as read at the meeting of the British
Association at Glasgow, by Andrew Murray, Esq., as an Appen-
dix to his paper on the INatural History of Central Africa.
Numerous specimens of raw products, and of the cereals, have
been sent to the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, and some others
to the Museum at Kew and to Edinburgh ; but of the zoolo-
gical and botanical specimens most yet remain for future
iuvestigfation.
G.
As I intend shortly to discuss at some length the question
of African fever, I shall touch but very lightly on it here. It
has been hitherto a great bugbear, and until very recently
has been regarded and treated in an empirical and unscientific
manner. More sound and common-sense views are now begin-
ning to spread, and to few persons are medical men more
indebted for this reformation than to Dr. Bryson, H.N., in
APPENDIX. 453
whose "Reports" is to be found iiiuch sound and valuable
information. It will be sufficient here to say that African
fever has nothing specific about it ; that it is certainly not
sui generis, and that it is merely an aggravated form of the
disease known in this country as ague. The various divisions
into continued, remittent, and intermittent are only calculated
to puzzle and to mislead; they refer to degrees and not to
f.ctual differences, and these forms gradually, but surely, merge
into each otlier. In its mildest form the fever is intermittent,
that is to say, between the paroxysms intervals of health occur:
more aggravated, the complaint becomes remittent, meaning,
that between the febrile accessions the symptoms only remit,
but do not altogether disappear : in its greatest intensity the
disease is quasi-continued, or to the unpractised eye seems to
be devoid of paroxysmal changes, but to proceed with an unde-
viating deadly career. But in all these the poison, the original
cause of the malady, is essentially the same, and the results
depend partly on constitutional causes, partly on the amount
and virulence of the poison imbibed. The same amount of
poison will, as is the case with alcohol, affect two persons
inhaling it in very different degrees. The disease is what is
termed by medical -men periodic, and the remedies required are
called anti-periodies, of which the best known and the most
efficacious is quinine. This may be given as soon as the
complaint shows itself, and the sooner the better, as it is the
main-stay of the sufterer ; of course, various occasional sym-
ptoms may occur during its progress, which vsill require to be
treated according to cii'cumstances. But the great modern
improvement is the discovery that quinine not only cures, but
that it actually prevents, and that by taking this invaluable
drug while in unhealthy localities, persons may escape totaliy
unscathed. The best form for use for this purpose is quinine
tvine, of which half a glass should be taken early in the morn-
ing, and repeated if requisite in the iifternoon. Experience
likewise proves, that if endemic fever seizes a person who has
been using quinine as a prophylactic, he will escape much more
easily, and have a milder and more manageable attack than
another who has not been so employing it. The other means
of avoidintr disease are such as reason rrnd ccnmon sense would
451. APPENDIX.
suggest — namely, avoiding uiglit exposure, sleeping in the open
air, or delay in sickly spots, &c., and for Europeans a ratlier
generous diet, with the frequent use of the shower-bath. Drugs
should be avoided as much as possible, especially calomel and
other mercurials, which are not only unnecessary, but have
actually killed far more people than ever fever has. Calomel
has no real or curative effect on malarious poisons, but only
adds fuel to the fire, as the unfortunate to whom it is adminis-
tered has to contend against two poisons rather than one.
Much ingenuity has been displayed by those who believe in
the specific nature of African fever in endeavouring to discover
causes for its supposed malignity. At one time sulphuretted
hydrogen was pronounced to be the origo mali, the theorists
forgetting that if so, Harrowgate and Strathpeffer would be
highly dangerous spots. Then putrid matters, moisture, vege-
table decay, &c., each had their supporters, as well as many
other hypotheses ; but at present we only know that the poison,
of the nature of which we are as yet ignorant, may arise from a
dry soil. It is certainly more abundant where there is moisture,
and generally more intense ; but all that is really required for
its production are a certain amount of heat and previous
moisture. These conditions are widely spread, and therefore
we find malaria also nearly ubiquitous, though more prevalent
in warm climates. But in no essential does African endemic
fever differ from the fever of Hindustan, of Borneo, of the
Spanish Main, of the West Indies, or of fenny and marshy
countries in Europe. The treatment required is the same;
only as the symptoms are more violent, so should the remedies
be more decided and more quickly pushed. It has been stated
as an inexplicable paradox, tliat fever often does not make its
appearance while travellers are actually in malarious regions,
but that it breaks out, as in the case of the expedition of 1841,
after reaching healthy regions. But this is easily explained,
as the miasmata seldom or never lay men prostrate at once,
but the poison — like in this respect that of small-pox or of
typhus — has a period of incubation, as it is termed, varying
from five or six to sixteen or eighteen days, but usually from
nine to twelve ; so that before the primary symptoms are
evidenced, tbe swampy district where the seeds of illness
APPENDIX. 455
were sown may have been left far beliind. Lastly, let it be
always borne in mind, that this disease is strictly and inherently
non-infectious.
H.
To pursue trade to advantage along the Kwora and Biiniej
it will be necessary to establish at various suitable places along
their banks depots or stations, from which the products of the
country can be shipped and carried away. With the natives
trade will be carried on in a petty manner ; therefore the most
advantageous method of pursuing it will be by the intervention
and employment of civilized natives, such as those of Sierra
Leone, Avho will manage the retail business, and then deal on
the larger scale with the W'hite trader. Though the climate
will not be so dreaded as it has been hitherto, still it can never
prove adapted for Europeans, so that much must be effected by
coloured agency. These people would reside in the country,
would collect the products, and store them up until the rainy
season, when steamers would ascend to bring fresh supplies of
manufactured goods, and to carry off the products collected
during the year. Before long not only would, the trade of the
immediate vicinity of the river be thus concentrated, but that
of the countries as far as the borders of the Sahara would flow
in the same direction, as I see in one of Dr. Earth's despatches
that various chiefs stated, that were ships to ascend the Kwdra,
they and their people would bring their goods for disposal
towards the river, in preference to the dangerous march
across the Desert.
The staple articles of trade would be palm-oil, shea-butter,
cam-wood, and ivory, but other articles would also be easily
procurable, as ground'uuts, indigo, peppers, cotton, croton-oil
seeds, hides, ostrich-feathers, &c. ; and probably an internal
trade would spring up in rice, corn, yams, provisions, native
cloths, &c. Gold-dust would also be obtained, but not in any
quantity. With the advance of civilization other articles
456 APPENDIX.
Avoulcl be introduced, and other crops cultivated, especially
coffee and sugar-canes. In exchange the principal demand
on us would be for soft goods, and in a smaller degree for
stoneware, hardware, arms, and gunpowder.
Most of our African colonies have availed themselves of the
recent postal reductions ; but it would be a great boon if the
same could be extended to ^the trading rivers, which are, prac-
tically speaking, floating colonies, inhabited almost exclusively
by natives of Britain. Having no functionaries, I suppose the
request has never been made ; but it would be, doubtless, of
much service to those interested in the prosperity of these
places. To Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, and Akra the
postage now is sixpence, while to the rivers it is a shilling.
But if we wish to write to Madeira or Teneriffe, places much
nearer England, the postal expense is more than three times
the amount of a letter to Tasmania — so considerate to us are
our allies, who depend for the welfare, aluiost for the existence,
of these dependencies on our support. It certainly is pre-
posterous, that writing to a sick friend at Madeira we must
pay for the lightest letter one shilling and eightpeuce, while
We may send one three or four times the weight, and more than
treble the distance, for sixpence. Were it not for its English
visitors and English residents, what would Madeira be ? yet,
with its uncalled-for quarantine expenses, and its high rate of
postage, undue restrictions are wantonly heaped on its best
friends.
THE END.
hRAUBURY Ai<D EVANS, TKlNTERS, WUITLFRIARS.
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