Skip to main content

Full text of "Narratives of the mission of George Bogle to Tibet, and of the journey of Thomas Manning to Lhasa"

See other formats 


Google 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  library  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 

to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 

to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 

are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  maiginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 

publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  tliis  resource,  we  liave  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 
We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  fivm  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attributionTht  GoogXt  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  in  forming  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liabili^  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.   Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 

at|http: //books  .google  .com/I 


r:.5ttw.; 


/   •* 


Kii:  ■  ■  • 
Cr.:''- ' 


i 


V:;r  ti 


«-».:.:■; 


•-  •'"■  ;•■  ■ 
6;;:;.:  -  r;| 


:•:■■    XI 


t .•;;rii 


z. 
H:  - :  f 


■'  ^i 


{N  - . :    ••-^ 

f' — r  c  -• 

■  *  •■i;-  ♦-< 
ki:: :  ■  '  '.-.i 

r»».  i  •.-•'■-  < 


5:::5:r::;  c 


\ 


t-j  ... 
r:-' 


'  •  ■  *  •  -  . 

•  *  •    r^  •      .. 

f^*-  : :  •. : 


r 


l\ 


5>-:  ;;• 


i'^- -t  X..'  ' — 

■•*•  *.»»  w^ r  ••  " 
—'  •  -»>  i'*    ■ 

"'  \  • ,  -  -  . 

r\V\   -'''--■' - 

S  ;:?  i  ;  :• 

«><•••■    -  •   --  • 

f;  -•--;:•:-•■•--:■ 

^^    *    ■*- _ -"    ' *•  . 
r^-    C   t    *    -   *  • 

•-  '  -  r--  -^    i 


» » 


\ 


^■:m 


If;:;  r 


:s- 


r  *  :  •  ••  .« 

"  •••'•►■ 
••  - .  • 

••• . .' 
^ '■'•"• '• 

'•  •  ft  *  1  ■ " 


» t.  . 
f  ^  : 

"    •  ■•   . 
•  t- 1 


it:' ' 


wmrn 


.'        i 


^''./'VO 


y) 


NARRATIVES 


OP  THK 


MISSION  OF  GEOEGE  BOGLE 


TO 


TIBET, 


AND  OF  THE 


JOURNEY  OF  THOMAS  MANNING 


TO 


LHASA 


EDITED,   WITH  NOTES,  AN  INTRODUCTION,  AND  LIVES  OF 

MR,  BOOLE  AND  MR.  MANNING 


BY 

CLEMENTS  R.  MARKHAM,  CB.,  F.R.S. 

OBOOBAPHICAL  DKPABTlCniT,  IVDIA  OFPICK. 


LONDON: 
TRtTBNER   AND   CO.,   LUDGATE   HILL. 

18  76. 


(f^3.      e.     Jil-J  . 


DEDICATION. 


-•o^ 


To  the  Bight  Hon.  the  Lord  Nobthbrook,  G.M.S.L,  Viceroy 

and  Ooverrwr-Oeneral  of  India, 

My  deab  Lobi)  Nobthbbook, 

I  AM  glad  to  be  allowed  to  iisscribe  to  yon,  from  whom, 
when  I  was  your  Private  Secretary,  in  times  past,  I  received  so 
mnch  kindness,  my  editorial  labours  in  connection  with  a  book 
which  cannot,  I  venture  to  think,  fail  to  have  interest  for  the 
Yioeroy  of  India. 

The  most  important  portion  of  the  volume  would,  without 
doubt,  have  been  dedicated  to  Warren  Hastings,  the  first  Govemor- 
Oeneral,  by  his  envoy  Mr.  George  Bogle,  if  untoward  circum- 
stances had  not  intervened  to  prevent  its  publication.  A  century 
has  since  elapsed,  and  now  that  the  intention  of  Warren  Hastings 
that  it  should  be  given  to  the  world  is  fulfilled,  it  is  appropriate 
that  the  book  should  be  dedicated  to  his  successor,  the  present 
Yioeroy  and  Governor-General  of  India. 

In  the  long  period  that  has  intervened,,  since  the  first 
Governor-General  retired,  no  greater  advances  have  been  made 
towards  the  establishment  of  friendly  commercial  intercourse  be- 
tween India  and  the  countries  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Hima- 
laya than  in  the  time  of  your  Lordship's  administration.      A 

a  2 


rt*---  ^_ 


111  of 

3    of 

Itaat- 
.1,  Dr. 


/ 


w  *^r? 


*    V 


;/■) 


NARRATIVES 


OF  THK 


MISSION  OF  GEORGE  BOGLE 


TO 


TIBET, 


AND  OF  THE 


JOUENEY  OF  THOMAS  MANNING 


TO 


LHASA 


EDITED,   WITH  NOTES,  AN  INTRODUCTION,  AND  LIVES  OF 

MR.  BOOLE  AND  MR.  MANNING 


BY 

CLEMENTS  R.  MARKHAM,  C.B.,  P.R.S. 

OKOOKAPHICAL  DBPABTmCKT,  IVDIA  OmCR. 


\^ 


LONDON: 
TRUBNER   AND   CO.,   LUDGATE   HILL. 

18  7  6. 


(COS-     e.     Jil 


/ 


X  C50NTENTB. 

PAOB 

BoKim  Pbibbtb  ik  Tibit. — Andnda       M 

Grueber  and  Dorville Ivii 

Deaden  and  Freyre      Iviii 

Mannflciipts  of  DeBidori        b'z 

Horace  della  Penna       Iz 

The  Lama  Surrey Izi 

Samuel  Van  de  Pntte Ixii 

BeTolution  at  Lhasa      Ixt 

Gorkha  conqaest  of  Nepal    ..            « Izvi 

Bogle's  miadon  to  Tibet       Izyiii 

Hamilton's  miBsion  to  Bhutan Ixix 

Death  of  Mr.  Bogle  and  the  Teshu  Lama Izx 

Tamer's  mission  to  Tibet     Ixxi 

Mission  of  Pnmngir  Gtosain  to  Tibet         Izx? 

Oorkha  invasion  of  Tibet     IzxTi 

Chinese  invasion  of  Nepal Ixxvii 

Kirkpatriok's  mission  to  Nepal Ixzyiii 

The  Chinese  close  the  passes       Izxiz 

Journey  of  Manning  to  Lhasa     Izxx 

War  with  Nepal     Izxxi 

Troubles  with  Bhutan Ixzxii 

Pemberton's  mission  to  Bhutan Ixzziii 

Residents  in  Nepal. — The  Hon.  Edward  Gardner,  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson, 

Sir  Herbert  Maddock Izxxiv 

Services  of  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson  in  Nepal Izxxv 

Political  services  of  Mr.  Hodgson       Ixxxvii 

CsomadeKoros     Izxxviii 

Archibald  Campbell Ixxxix 

Daijfling xo 

War  with  Sikkim xci 

Dr.  J.  D.  Hooker xcii 

Hooker's 'Himilayan  Journals' .. xciii 

Klaproth,  Gutzlafi;  Hue       xciv 

Tibetan  politics xcv 

The  Dalai  Lamas xcviii 

Present  state  of  Nepal xciz 

Eden's  mission  to  Bhutan x: 

The  Bhutan  war ci 

Tawang di 

Recent  ezploration  in  Sikkim      ciii 

Relations  with  Sikkim civ 

Mr.  Edgar's  Report        ov 

Moravian  mission  in  Labaul        ovii 

Journey  of  the  Pundit  of  1865  to  Lhasa cix 

The  Pundit's  account  of  Lhasa cxiii 

Exploration  of  No.  9      oxv 

Exploration  of  Lake  Tengri-nor cxvi 

Trade  of  Tibet        cxviii 

Policy  of  Warren  Hastings cxxi 

ISpeculatiuna  as  to  the  future       cxxii 

O>nclusion       oxxiii 


CONTENTS.  xi 


NOTE  ON  THE  MAPS  OF  TIBET,  NEPAL,  SIKKIM,  AND  BHUTAN. 

Early  mape,  including  Tibet        oxziT 

Deliide  and  D'AnyiUe ozxt 

Crawford.    Aaron  Arrowsmith ozxyI 

Later  nups  of  Nepal      oxxvii 

Maps  of  Sikkim      oxxviii 

Recent  maps  of  Bhutan  and  Tibet     oxxix 

Mape  of  Colonel  Hontgomerie'8  explorers exxx 

BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH  OF  QEORQB  BOOLE. 

Diaciplee  of  the  school  of  Hastings     cxxxi 

Family  of  G^rge  Bogle       oxxxii 

Bogle's  early  years cxxxiii 

Bogle  enters  the  Company's  serrice oxxxiy 

The  lamine  of  1770        cxxxy 

Bogle  in  the  Revenue  Department      oxxxyi 

Bogle's  character  of  Warren  Hastings        cxxxvii 

Friendship  for  Alexander  Elliot         ..      ..      cxxxyiii 

Letters  from  Tibet oxxxix 

The  Lama's  necklace oxl 

AppiOTal  of  Bogle's  Proceedings        cxli 

The  Francis  faction       .. cxlii 

Dignified  conduct  of  Warren  Hastings       cxliv 

Characters  c^  Hastings  and  Francis cxlv 

Death  of  Alexander  Elliot cxlvi 

Bogle's  appointment  to  Rangptlr cxlvii 

Correspondence  while  at  Rangpiir      ozlviii 

Death  and  character  of  Mr.  Bogle       cl 

Letter  of  Hastings  to  Dr.  Johnson      cli 

Presenration  of  the  Bogle  manuscripts      ..  div 

BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH  OF  THOMAS  MANNING. 

Birth  and  education  of  Mr.  Manning civ 

Manning  goes  to  China dvi 

Manning  goes  to  Calcutta < dvii 

The  journey  to  Lhasa. dviii 

Joins  Lord  Amherst's  Embassy clix 

Eccentric  life dx 

Death  of  Mr.  Manning dxi 


NARRATIVE 

OF  THB 

MISSION  OF  MR.  GEORGE  BOGLE  TO  TIBET 

(1774). 


CHAPTER  I. 
MISSION  TO  TIBET. 


LKTTlUi  FROM  THB  TSSHU  LAMA  —  MISSION  TO  T1B8T  —  APPOINTMENT  OF 

MB.  BOOLE — HIS  IN8TBUGTI0NB. 

PAGB 

1.  Letter  from  the  Teshn  Lama  to  Warren  Hastings      1 

2.  Minute  by  Warren  Hastings 3 

8.  Letter  from  Warren  Hastings  to  the  Court  of  Directors     5 

4.  Appointment  of  Mr.  Bogle      0 

5.  Private  oommisslons  to  Mr.  Bogle S 

6.  Memorandum  on  Tibet,  by  Warren  Hastings      9 

CHAPTER  n. 

FROM  KUCH  BAHAR  TO  TAS8ISUD0N. 

The  mission  departs  from  Calcutta 14 

Enters  Bhutan        15 

Buxa-Dilar       16 

Ascent  of  the  mountains        17 

Bhutanese  and  Bengalis       18 

Rivers  and  caficades        19 

VegetSitlou  of  Bhutan 20 

Bridges 21 

List  of  stages 22 

CHAPTER  III. 

TASSISUDON,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  BHUTAN. 

Scenery  round  Tassisudon 23 

Arrival  of  the  Deb  Rajah      24 

Interview  with  tlie  Deb  Rajah 25 

The  Lama-Rimbochd     26 

Services  and  dances  of  the  priests       27 

Manners  and  customs ..  28 

A  funeral  pile 29 

Position  of  women 30 

Trouble  with  servants 31 

Temples  and  praying  wheels        32 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

CHAPTER  IV. 

HISTORY  AND  GOVERNMENT  OF  BHUTAN.  ^^^^ 

The  lamas       88 

Priests,  oiBcials,  and  peasants      34 

Inflnenoe  of  the  priests  in  Bhutan      ..             ..      35 

€k>Tenunent.  Revenue 86 

Career  of  Deb  Judhur 37 

Fall  of  Deb  Judhur       ..      ..     * 38 

Insurrection  in  favour  of  Deb  Judhur        89 

Arg^uments  of  the  contending  fisMstions        40 

CHAPTER  V. 

BHUTAN:  NEGOTIATIONS. 

1.  Interview  with  the  Deb  Rajah      42 

2.  Reports  to  Warren  Hastings 44 

Objections  to  Mr.  Bogle  proceeding  to  Tibet      45 

Obstacles  to  progress       46 

Detention  at  Tassisudon 47 

Removal  of  the  obstacles  to  progress    . .             48 

Permitted  to  proceed        49 

Proposals  for  the  extension  of  trade      50 

The  caravan  to  Rangpiir 51 

Collection  of  plants  and  seeds        52 

Encouragement  of  trade 53 

CHAPTER  VI. 

SUGGESTIONS  RESPECTING  BHUTAN  AND  ASSAM. 

TheDiiars       55 

Future  military  operations  against  Bhutan       56 

Trade  through  Assam 58 

Proposal  respecting  Assam 59 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

THE  JOURNEY  TO  TIBET. 

1.  From  Tassisudon  to  Pari-jong       61 

Soldiers  in  Bhutan 62 

Lumbolong        68' 

The  harvest  at  Essana 64 

Paro 65 

The  valley  of  the  Paohu 66 

Pari-jong 67 

2.  From  Pari-jong  to  Desheripgay 67 

Pari-jong 68 

Set  out  from  Pari-jong 69 

Chumalhari  Peak 70 


xiv  CONTENTS. 

PACK 

lii^e  of  Sbam-chu  Felling      71 

Game  laws  in  Tibet 72 

Sham-ohn  and  Calo-ohu  lakes       ..      ..      73 

A  happy  family        74 

Poeition  of  women  in  Tibet 75 

OianBU       76 

Pain4m       •      78 

Banks  of  the  Tsanpu       79 

Gylongs      ®0 

Arrival  at  Desheripgay 81 

CHAPTEE  VIII. 

AT  DESHEBIPGAY. 

Desheripgay 82 

Interview  with  the  Teshu  Lama 83 

Character  of  the  Lama 84 

Grand  reception  by  the  Lama      85 

Dried  meat.    Dangerous  medicine      86 

Charity  of  the  Lama 87 

Tibetan  dress 88 

CHAPTER  IX. 

RIDE  PROM  DESHERIPGAY  TO  TESHU  LUMBO. . 

Leave  Desheripgay        ••  ^ 

The  procession        91 

Teshu-tsay.    A  Tibetan  dance 92 

Birth-place  of  the  Lama       9S 

Return  of  the  Lama  to  his  palace       94 

Enthusiastic  reception  of  the  Lama 95 

CHAPTER  X. 

TESHU  LUMBO. 

Palace  of  Teshu  Lumbo        96 

Ceremony  of  blessing  the  people 98 

A  Tibetan  feast      99 

The  images  in  the  palace      100 

A  game  of  chess     101 

Eeception  of  an  envoy  from  Lhasa      102 

A  monastic  life       «      108 

Chess,  and  church-going       104 

The  Lama's  relations 105 

New  year  ceremonies 106 

Fortune-telling       107 

Tibetan  ladies 108 

Generous  feeling  of  the  Lama's  family      109 

Familiar  intercourse  with  the  Lama's  family 110 


CONTENTS.  XV 

CaaAPTER  XI. 

A  VISIT  TO  A  TIBETAN  COUNTRY  SEAT.  ,^^, 

Journey  with  the  Pyn  Coshos     112 

Bide  to  Rinjaitzay 113 

Hunting  the  musk  deer        114 

Retum  to  Teshn  Lnmbo       ..  116 

The  Governor  of  Janglach^ 117 

Departnre  &om  Teshu  Lumbo     118 

Parting  with  the  Pyn  Cnshos       118 

OHAPTEB  XII. 
AN  ACCOUNT  OF  TIBET. 

FAG9    or    THS    OOUNTBT  —  PBODUOB  —  FOOD  —  DB1S8    OT    TRX    PBOPLK  —  PBIXBT8 

AND     KUH8  —  HOBSn    AND     OTHXB     ANIMALS  —  BOrSBB  —  DIgPOeAL    OF  DSAD 
BODIES  —  POLYANDBY. 

Prodnoe.    Food      119 

Dress  of  the  people 120 

Priests.    Horses     121 

Burial  of  the  dead 122 

Polyandry        128 

CHAPTEB  XnL 

TBADE  OF  TIBET. 

ELashmiris        124 

Trade  with  Bhutan,  Assam,  and  China      125 

Trade  with  Nepal 126 

Trade  with  Bengal        127 

Corrency 128 

CHAPTEB  XIV. 

NEGOTIATIONS. 

1.  Politics  of  Tibet  and  neighbonring  cdnntries      130 

Ohstmctiye  policy  of  the  Gesnb  Rimboch^ 131 

Ohanuster  of  the  Teshn  Lama       132 

Exclusion  of  Europeans 138 

The  Lama's  proposal  to  nse  influence  at  Peking       134 

2.  Conversations  with  the  Teshu  Lama  at  Desheripgay        135 

Discussion  of  the  Bhutan  War       136 

Friendly  feeling  of  the  Lama.    Questions  as  to  religion 138 

Encounter  with  the  Benares  vakil 139 

The  Sopon  Chumbo 140 

Decline  of  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet— causes 141 

Mussulman  invasion  of  India 142 

Religious  conversation — ^reference  to  Lhasa        148 

Gorkha  aggression.    Further  conyersation 144 


xvi  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XV. 
OONVBESATIONS  WITH  THE  TESHU  LAMA  AT  TESHU  LUMBO. 

PAQK 

The  Lama's  deeire  to  have  a  Buddhist  temple  on  the  Qanges       146 

Interest  with  the  high-priest  at  Peking     146 

Oonversation  with  deputies  from  Lhasa     147 

Decay  of  trade  through  the  conduct  of  the  GK}rkha8        148 

Aggression  of  the  Gorkhas.    Invasion  of  Sikkim 149 

The  Gesub  Rimbochd  and  the  Chinese       150 

Second  in teryiew  with  the  deputies  from  Lhasa       152 

Letter  to  Gesub  Rimboch^ 153 

Reasons  for  not  going  to  Lhasa 154 

Narrow-minded  prejudices  of  Gesub  Rimboch^       155 

Vakils  from  Nepal.    The  Gorkha  Rajah 157 

Death  of  the  Gorkba  Rajah 159 

Misunderstanding  between  Russia  and  China 160 

Interview  with  the  Kashmiri  merohants 161 

Visit  from  the  Tibetan  merchants       163 

The  temple  on  the  Ganges.    Further  conversation 164 

Requests  at  parting       166 

Moro  roligious  conversation.    Catholic  missionaries        167 

Russians  and  Chinese.    The  Lama's  watches 168 

Efforts  of  the  Lama  to  romove  jealousy  of  English 169 

Desire  of  the  Lama  for  friendly  relations  between  India  and  China  ..  170 

Farowell  to  the  Lama 171 

CHAPTER  XVI, 

THE  EPISODE  WITH  THE  CHAUDURI. 

The  Chauduri  an  emissary  of  the  Gesnb  Rimboeh^ 172 

Conversation  with  the  Chauduri 173 

The  Chauduri  disclaimed  by  the  Gesub 174 

Second  interview  with  the  Chauduri 175 

Reasoning  on  the  Chauduri  intrigue 176 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

RETURN  FROM  TIBET  TO  BENGAL.    NEGOTIATIONS  IN  BHUTAN. 

Mr.  Bogle's  affection  for  the  Lama  and  his  people 177 

Incidents  on  the  road 178 

Sects  of  the  Yellow  and  Red  Caps      180 

Old  friends.    A  hot  spring 181 

Arrival  at  Paro.    Return  to  Tassisudon 182 

Paro  as  a  central  mart 183 

Proposals  for  facilitating  trade 184 

Offer  of  free  trade  to  Bhutan       186 

Opening  of  trade  with  Bhutan 187 

Exclusion  of  Europeans        188 

Negotiations  with  the  Deb  Rajah       189 

Return  to  Bengal 190 


CONTENTS.  xtU 

CHAPTER  XVm. 

GENERAL  BGPORT  BY  MB.  BCX;»LE  ON  HIS  RETURN  FROM 

TIBET. 

Bhutan. — ^Faoe  of  the  ooontry     191 

„         Histoty 192 

„         Revenne.    Oontrast  between  Bhutan  and  Tibet 198 

Tibet.— -History      19* 

„        The  Lamas.    Chinese  at  Lhasa 195 

„        Parallel  between  Lamas  and  Popes      196 

„        Inflnenoe  of  Teshn  Lama       197 

„        Condnot  <^  the  Gk>rkha  Rajah       197 

YisitB  from  Kashmiri  and  Tibetan  merchants 198 

Beasons  for  not  going  to  Lhasa.    Retnm  to  Bhutan  * 199 

Difficult  n^iotiations  at  Tassisudon 200 

Trade  engrossed  by  the  Deb  Rajah  and  his  officers 201 

Permission  obtained  for  merchants  to  pass  through  Bhutan 202 

Trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet       ..      ..  203 

Suggestions  for  extension  of  trade      204 

Importance  of  removing  obstructions  in  Nepal 205 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

JOURNEY  OP  THE  TESHU  LAMA  TO  PEKING.  AND  HIS  DEATH. 

PROJECT    OP    MR.   BOGLE    FOR    MEETING    THE    LAMA  AT 
PEKING. 

Debts  of  Chiaese  merchants.    Journey  of  the  Teshu  Lama 207 

Promise  of  the  Lama  to  procure  passports  to  Peking  for  Mr.  Bogle  208 

Account  of  the  Teshu  Lama's  journey  and  death     (note)  208 

Proposals  respecting  Mr.  Bogle's  mission  to  Peking       209 


JOURNEY  OF  MR.  THOMAS  MANNING  TO  LHASA 

(1811-12),       . 


CHAPTER  L 

JOURNEY  FROM  CANTALBARY  TO  PARI-JONG. 

Approaching  Bhutan 218 

On  the  road  to  Pare       214 

Theft  of  spoons.    Leave  Paro      215 

Arrival  at  Pari-jong       216 

A  churlish  servant.    Arrival  of  Chinese 217 

Successful  practice  as  a  physician.    Permission  to  proceed 218 

b 


xria  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEB  IL 
FROM  PARI-JONG  TO  GIANSU. 

PAOS 

Leaye  Pari-joDg  with  a  Chinese  General.    Intense  oold 219 

Anightsoeneu    Bad  hone-gear 220 

A  runaway  horse 221 

Shores  of  a  lake      222 

Smoky  lodgings      223 

A  hot  spring.    Colossal  image 224 

Discomforts  of  travelling       ^      ..  225 

CHAPTER  m. 

RESIDENCE  AT  GIANSU. 

Approach  to  Giansa       226 

Description  of  Giansu— its  Chinese  appearance       227 

Clothing  for  cold  weather 228 

Prejudices  respectiog  dress 229 

Dinner  with  the  Chinese  GeneraL    Breakfast  with  the  Sub-Mandarin       ..  230 

Visit  to  a  Tibetan  Mandarin       231 

IJhractising  medicine       232 

Advice  from  the  General      233 

Hiring  a  servant 234 

Handiness  of  Chinese  soldiers.    Dinner  with  a  patient 235 

The  (General  gives  a  concert 236 

Postal  difficulties 237 

Sulkiness  of  the  Munshi       238 

A  Chinese  suit  of  clothes      240 


CHAPTER  IV. 
JOURNEY  FROM  GIANSU  TO  LHASA. 

PAGB 

Departure  from  Giansu.    Jokes  with  Chinese  soldiers 241 

Postal  service  in  Tibet 242 

Skirts  of  the  Central  Chain 248 

ThePaltilake        244 

Travelling  arrangements       * 246 

Hospitable  Tibetan  family 247 

Frolicsome  ravens 248 

The  Munshi  sulky 249 

A  cold  nighf  s  rest 250 

Valley  of  the  Tsanpu.    Crossing  the  river        251 

Ride  to  Lhasa 252 

View  of  the  palace  of  Potala 255 

Arrival  at  Lhasa 256 


CONTENTS.  xix 

CHAPTER  V. 

LHASA. 

PAO« 

Visit  to  the  MandAiins 2d8 

Lodgings  at  Lhasa 259 

DifSculties  in  talking  Chinese 260 

Continned  sulky  conduct  of  the  Munshi 260 

Visits  to  the  Thalung  and  to  the  Mandarins 261 

CHAPTER  VI. 

VISIT  TO  THE  GBAND  LAMA. 

Preparation  of  pfresents 263 

RidetoPotala — reception 264 

Audience  of  the  Grand  Lama      265 

Practice  as  a  physician 267 

Visit  to  a  crazy  Mandarin 267 

CHAPTER  Vn. 

STORY  OF  THE  RIOT— EXECUTION  OF  A  GOOD  MANDARIN. 

Scuffle  between  a  Tihetan  and  Chinaman 271 

Conspiracy  against  an  upright  magistrate.    His  execution 272 

Lhasa  looked  on  as  banishment 278 

Bad  character  of  mandarins  sent  to  Lhasa        274 

CHAPTER  Vm. 

RESIDENCE  AT  LHASA. 

Spies.    Anger  of  Mr.  Manning 275 

Interrogatories        276 

Hopes  of  continuing  the  journey 277 

Uneasiness  of  the  Munshi 278 

Unpleasant  anticipations  of  being  executed      279 

Reception  of  patients 280 

Altercation  with  a  patient 281 

Newlodgings 282 

Misconduct  of  the  Mimshi.    Inattention  of  serTants       284 

Visit  to  a  Thalung's  mother 285 

Visit  to  the  physician  of  the  Dalai  Lama 286 

Want  of  money       :      * 287 

Second  Tisit  to  the  Dalai  Lama 288 

Visit  to  the  temples        289 

Toleration        291 

b2 


CHlfTQn 


cBifmsi 
iE'ipryaiTtii.m 

f  ■■»!«-«  (IjBfipfarue    " 

■-^uJym 


Miijunmi •/litis    . 


JOrSSET  FSOU  OIAXSU  TO  IMiSi. 


TV  pit  y^ 


00 


■'^^^VTVi 


k 


<^«4I1^ 


«i> 


'•*• 


Ac: 


A   (,r,.- 


^"'    ^-. 


"  *''^^^-i;^^ 


-»ifr 


-^t^"*:-^ 


rm 


^-  :■£.... 


16  Uj 


*"*««»    **»««■ 


t  ii 


xxii  OBJECTS  OF  THE  INTRODUCTION.  [Intb. 

of  his  brave  and  saccessful  enterprise,  and  he  was  left  to  perish 
or  to  return,  as  chance  would  have  it. 

So  completely  was  the  policy  of  opening  commercial  inter- 
course between  India  and  theTrans-Himdlayan  region  abandoned, 
that  the  very  history  of  the  Hastings  negotiations  was  forgotten,^ 
and  most  of  the  valuable  records  of  the  Tibet  and  Bhutan 
missions  were  lost.  Thus  the  knowledge  that  was  then  acquired 
with  so  much  care,  the  lessons  of  experience  that  were  taught, 
instead  of  being  carefully  stored  up  and  made  available  as  a 
point  of  departure  for  future  efforts,  have  been  totally  dis- 
regarded. It  is  by  a  series  of  mere  accidents  that  copies  of 
records  long  since  lost  or  destroyed,  owing  to  official  neglect, 
have  been  preserved  through  the  more  patriotic  and  discrimi- 
nating care  of  private  fstmilies. 

The  account  of  the  important  mission  of  George  Bogle  to 
Bhutan  and  Tibet  has  been  gathered  partly  from  journals, 
partly  from  official  despatches,  and  partly  from  private  corre- 
spondence; and  it  is  now  presented  for  the  first  time  in  a 
connected  form.  That  of  Mr.  Manning's  extraordinary  journey 
to  Lhasa  is  from  a  fragmentary  series  of  notes  and  jottings 
which  alone  remain  to  bear  testimony  to  a  feat  which  still 
remains  unparalleled. 

As  an  introduction  to  the  perusal  of  these  narratives^  I 
propose  to  give  an  account  of  the  region  to  which  they  refer ; 
to  furnish  some  information  respecting  what  is  known  of  the 
inhabitants,  their  history  and  religion ;  and  to  pass  in  review 
the  several  steps  by  which  our  existing  knowledge  has  been  ac- 
quired, and  the  events,  so  far  as  we  can  learn  them,  which  have 
formed  the  more  recent  history  of  Tibet,  Nepal,  Sikkim,  and 
Bhutan.  To  perform  such  a  task  with  any  approach  to  com- 
pleteness would  require  a  separate  volume,  and  the  possession 
of  local  knowledge.    My  aim  in  this  introduction  will  therefore 

^  See  Hamilton's  '  East  India  Gazet-  he  did  not  know  the  difference  between 
teer.'  This  writer,  with  access  to  the  Deb  Bajah  of  Bhatan  and  the 
official  records,  was  so  ignorant,  that      Dalai  Lama. 


IBTB.]  THE  HImXlATAK  REGION.  zziU 

be  confined  to  such  a  general  glance  at  the  sabject  ae  will  suffice 
to  place  the  narratives  in  their  due  relative  positions,  and  to 
explain  all  circumstances  relating  to  them  directly  or  indirectly. 
Another  object  will  be  to  furnish  references,  in  their  proper 
order,  through  which  this  important  subject  may  be  more 
'  thoroughly  studied  and  xmderstood ;  and  thus,  in  some  measure, 
to  assist  in  replacing  and  restoring  those  foundations  of  a  great 
policy  which  the  genius  of  Warren  Hastings  had  laid,  but 
which  subsequent  neglect  has  destroyed. 

The  Him&layan  system  is  composed  of  three  great  culmina- 
ting chains,  running  more  or  less  parallel  to  each  other  for 
their  whole  length,  from  the  gorge  of  the  Indus  to  that  of  the 
Dihong;  and  the  lofty  region  of  Great  Tibet  lies  mainly 
between  the  inner  and  outer  range,  with  the  Central  Chain, 
whence  most  of  the  rivers  of  northern  India  take  their  rise, 
running  through  its  length.  It  is  with  the  portion  of  the 
Himdlayan  region  which  includes  Great  Tibet  and  the  countries 
between  it  and  the  plains  of  India,  that  the  narratives  com- 
posing this  volume  have  to  do ;  and,  therefore,  the  introductory 
remarks  will  be  mainly  confined  to  that  portion. 

The  inner  and  most  northern  of  the  three  ranges  is  naturally 
divided  into  a  western  and  an  eastern  section.  The  western  is 
known  as  the  Earakorum  Bange,  separating  the  valley  of  the 
Indus  from  that  of  the  Yarkand  Biver  and  other  streams 
belonging  to  the  inland  system  of  Lob-nor.  It  has  vast  glaciers 
and  lofty  peaks,  including  that  called  E  2,  which  is  28,000  feet 
above  the  sea,'  while  it  is  traversed  by  passes  of  great  height, 
such  as  the  Chang-chenmo,  19,000  feet,^  and  the  Earakorum, 
18,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  sources  of  three  great  rivers 
are  on  the  southern  slopes  of  the  northern  range,  and  forcing 
their  way  through  the  central  and  southern  chains,  they  reach 
the  plains  of  India :  namely,  the  Indus,  Sutlej,  and  Brahmaputra. 

*  K2  stands  between  the  parts  of  '  There    are    two   Chang-chenmo 

this  range  called  Mustang  and  Kara-  passes :    that  of  Pangtnng-la,  18,900, 

komm,  referring  to  the  Mastang  and  and    of    Ghanglnng-barma  hi,   19,280 

Karakormn  passes.  feet  above  the  sea.    (Trotter's  Map.) 


ZXIT 


THB  KORTHEBN  CHAIN. 


[Ihtb. 


The  eastern  section  of  the  Northern  Bange  forms  the  natural 
northern  boundary  of  Great  Tibet;  for  althQUgh.  an  extensive 
region  farther  north  is  included  on  the  maps  as  part  of  Tibet, 
it  is  really  inhabited  by  wandering,  independent  tribes,  called 
Hor  and  Sok.^  Tibetan  influence,  so  far  as  we  yet  know,  is 
here  confined  to  the  route  to  Budok  and  the  Thok  Jalung  gold 
fields,^  and  to  a  few  moncuiteries  in  the  mountains  and  on  the 
banks  of  Lake  Tengri-nor,  although  Tibetan  sovereignty  must 
be  considered  as  extending  to  the  Kuen-lun  Mountains.  This 
lofty  region  is  almost  entirely  unknowi^  to  Europeans,  except 
through  the  Lama  surveys.^  It  is  drained  by  streams  flowing 
into  a  system  of  inland  lakes,  Siud  its  elevation  above  the  sea 
has  only  been  ascertained  at  three  points.  Mr.  Johnson,  in  his 
journey  to  Ehotan,  entered  the  region  of  inland  drainage  by  the 
Chang-chenmo  pass,  and  found  the  height  of  the  Lingtsi  plain 
to  be  17,000  feet.  The  Pundit  of  1867  found  the  gold  mines  of 
Thok  Jalung,  which  are  on  this  lofty  plateau,  to  be  16,330  feet; 
and  Colonel  Montgomerie's  explorer  of  1$72  reached  the  shores 
of  Lake  Tengri-nor,  and  ascertained  its  height  to  be  15,000  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  great  Northern  Chain  of  the  Him&layan 
system,  called  the  Earakorum  Range  in  its  western  section,  is 
here  known  as  the  Ninjinthangla  or  Nyencihhenrtcmg-la  Moun- 
tains, and  separates  the  inland  system  of  lakes  from  the  basin 
of  the  Brahmaputra.  To  the  westward  it  commences  at  the 
famous  central  peak  or  knot  called  Eailas  *  by  the  Hindus,  and 
Gangri  by  the  Tibetans,  which  is  22,000  feet  above  the  sea. 


1  Horaok  is  the  name  given  by  the 
Tibetans  to  the  whole  region  between  the 
Northern  Himalayan  Bange  (Nyenoh- 
hdi-thangli)  and  the  Kuen-lun.  It 
ifl  inhabited  by  two  distinct  races,  caUed 
Hor  and  Sok:  Horpa  is  the  western 
half  of  this  region,  and  Sokpa  the 
eastern  half,  as  well  as  part  of  Sokyenl, 
ronnd  the  Kokonor  Lake.  They  are 
aU  styled  Khichh^n  (Muhammadans) 
by  the  Tibetans.  Bukyeul  is  the  same 
as  Tangut    The  Hor  are  Turks,  and 


the  Sok  are  of  Mongol  race.  Yeul 
means  an  encampment,  so  that  8ok- 
yeul  is  the  encampment  of  the  Soks  or 
Mongols. 

^  The  northern  slopes  of  the  range 
are  reported  to  contain  a  whole  string 
of  gold  fields,  extending  from  the 
meridian  of  Lhasa  to  that  of  Budok. 

'  Bee  p.  Ixi  for  some  account  of  this 
survey. 

*  On  the  map  of  D'Auville,  in  Du 
Halde,  it  in  called  Kentaisse, 


Ivn.]  THE  CENTBAL  CHAIN.  xxt 

The  chain  then  continues  in  an  easterly  and  north-easterly 
direction,  forming  the  northern  watershed  of  the  Brahmaputra, 
throwing  up  lofty  peaks,  one  of  which  is  reported  by  the 
explorer  of  1872  to  be  at  least  25,000  feet  high;  while  the 
pass  by  which  he  crossed  the  range  to  the  inland  plateau  was 
17,200  feet  aboye  the  sea.  The  name  given  to  the  eastern 
section  of  this  most  northern  of  the  ranges  by  Mir.  Brian 
Hodgson  is  Nyenehhenrtang4a  ;^  and  the  same  name  is  referred 
by  the  explorer  of  1872  to  one  of  the  peaks.  Mr.  Trelawney 
Saunders  has  proposed  as  the  name  of  this  range,  6ang-ri,^  the 
Tibetan  for  ''snowy  mountain,''  by  which  the  Eailas  Peak  is 
known  in  Tibet.  But  perhaps  the  most  convenient  way  of  dis- 
tinguishing this  important  but  almost  unknown  mountain  chain 
will  be  by  referring  to  it  as  the  inner  or  northern  chain  of  the 
Him&layan  system.  ^ 

Parallel  to  the  Northern  Bange  runs  the  Central  Bange  of  the 
Him&laya,  which  is  also  little  known,' and  but  very  partially  ex- 
plored. The  section  of  this  range  with  which  we  have  to  deal 
commences  at  the  Mariam-la  pass,  near  the  Eailas  or  Gangri 
Peak.  Here  a  comparatively  low  saddle  connects  the  Northern 
and  Central  ranges,  and  separates  the  valley  of  the  Sutlej  from 
that  of  the  Brahmaputra.  To  the  eastward  this  Central  Chain, 
on  its  northern  side,  forms  the  southern  watershed  of  the  Brah- 
maputra, while  on  its  southern  slopes  are  the  sources  of  many 
important  rivers,  which,  forcing  their  way  through  the  Southern 
Chain  of  the  Himalaya,  eventually  join  the  Ganges  or  the  Brah- 
maputra. Such  are  the  rivers  Kali,  Eamali,  Narayani,  Buria 
Gandak,  Tirsuli  Gandak,  Bhotia  Eosi,  and  Arun,  in  Nepal ;  pos- 
sibly some  of  the  feeders  of  the  Monass,  in  Bhutan,  and  the 
Lopra-cachu,  or  Subanshiri,  farther  east  Only  three  English- 
men have  ever  crossed  the  Central  Chain  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Mariam-la  pass  (all  at  the  same  point),  namely,  Bogle,  Turner, 

'  See  '  Beleottons '  (QoTernment  of  is  snow,  in  Tibetan ;  dis^  colour,  in  San- 
Bengal),  No.  xxYii.  p.  98 ;  and  scrit ;  and  i?i,  a  mountain,  in  Tibetan. 
'  J.  A.  S.  B.,'  ii.,  of  1853.  C  Magasin  Asiatique,*  p.  288.     Paris, 

'  Klaproth  has  Gang-dis-ii.      Gang  1825.) 


xzn 


TIBET  AND  ITS  DIVISIONS. 


(iNTB. 


and  Manning ;  and  the  narratives  of  two  of  these  are  printed  for 
the  first  time  in  this  volume.  But  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
Central  Chain  was  obtained  by  Dr.  Hooker  from  the  Donkia 
pass,  looking  north,  and  it  has  been  traversed,  in  four  different 
places,  by  explorers  employed  by  Colonel  Montgomerie.  It 
contains  several  snowy  peaks  and  large  glaciers,  while  trans- 
verse saddles  intersect  the  region  between  it  and  the  Southern 
Bange  of  the  Him&laya.  Tibet  extends,  as  a  rule,  to  the  passes 
over  the  Southern  Bange. 

Tibet,  the  name  now  adopted  by  Europeans,  came  from  the 
Turks  and  Persians,  and  is  unknown  in  the  country.  Formerly 
the  name  used  in  the  west  was  Tangut,  the  origin  of  which  has 
been  explained  by  Colonel  Yule.^  But  the  true  name  is  Bod  and 
Bodyul,  called  Bhot  and  Bhotiya  in  India,  literally  "  Bod  Land." 
Tibet  or  Bodyul  is  divided  into  four  great  provinces,  called  Eam, 
U,  Tsang,  and  Ari.  Eam  is  the  eastern  province,  bordering  on 
Szechuen,  in  China ;  and  Ari  is  the  mountainous  region  west  of 
the  Mariam-la  pass,  including  Ladak.^  U  and  Tsang,  or  Utsang, 
form  Central  or  Great  Tibet,  extending  from  the  Mariam-la 
down  the  valley  of  the  Brahmaputra,  bounded  on  the  north  by 
the  great  Northern  Himalayan  Bange,  and  on  the  south  by  the 
series  of  snowy  peaks  overhanging  Nepal,  Sikkim,  and  Bhutan. 
Great  Tibet  thus  embraces  the  region  between  the  Northern  and 


»  *  Marco  Polo/  i.  p.  209.  The 
Mongols  called  Tibet  by  the  name  of 
Baran-tola  (8.W.),  or  the  •*  right  side," 
while  Mongolia  was  called  Dzegun-tola, 
or  the  left  (N.E.)  side ;  hence^  Dzun« 
garia  (i.  p.  216). 

'  A  great  part  of  Ari  has  been  ex- 
plored and  described  by  many  European 
travellers  and  surveyors  during  the 
present  century,  whose  works  are  enu- 
merated by  me  in  the  *  Memoir  on  the 
Indian  Surveys/  p.  247,  and  note. 

Kam  is  still  almost  entirely  unknown. 
Hue  and  Gabet  travereicd  it  on  their 
return  from  Lhasa  to  Szechuen.  An 
itinerary  of  the  same  route  is  given  by 


Klaproth.  Mr.  T.  T.  Cooper,  in  the 
narrative  of  his  adventurous  journey  to 
Bhatang,  gives  additional  information 
respecting  the  eastern  province  of  Tibet 
(see  *  Travels  of  a  Pioneer  of  Commerce 
in  Pigtail  and  Petticoats,'  London, 
1871);  and  M.  Des  Godins  furnishes 
further  details,  especially  as  regards  the 
geography  of  the  groat  rivers  supposed 
to  be  the  upper  courses  of  the  Cambodia^ 
Salwin,  and  Irrawaddy.  (See '  La  Mis- 
sion du  Thibet/  par  C.  H.  Des  Godins. 
Verdun,  1872 ;  and  the  •  Bulletin  de  la 
Society  de  Geographic'  for  Nov.,  1871, 
p.  343,  and  Oct.,  1875.  p.  337). 


INTB.]  VALLEY  OF  THE  UPPEE  BRAHMAPUTBA.  xxvu 

Southern  chains,  but  the  towns  and  principal  monasteries,  where 
are  the  centres  of  population,  are  chiefly  in  the  valley  of  the 
Brahmaputra,  and  its  tributaries  from  the  north  and  south. 

Except  as  regards  the  region  round  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  the 
route  to  Lhasa,  which  were  visited  by  Bogle,  Turner,  and  Man* 
ning,  our  modem  knowledge  of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Brah- 
maputra or  Tsanpu  is  derived  entirely  from  the  accounts  given 
by  the  Pundit  despatched  by  Colonel  Montgomerie  in  1866,  and 
the  young  Tibetan  sent  in  1872. 

The  Tsanpu  rises,  in  longitude  82^  28'  E.,  at  the  Mariam-la 
pass,^  15,500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  flows,  in  its  upper  course,' 
over  an  elevated  series  of  plains,  where  sheep,  goats,  and  yaks 
abound,  with  many  large  glaciers  belonging  to  the  Central 
Chain  of  the  Himalaya  in  sight  to  the  south.  It  receives  two 
large  rivers  on  the  left  bank,  flowing  from  the  Northern  Bange, 
called  Chachu  Tsanpu,  and  Cbarta  Tsanpu  f  and  at  Janglach^,^ 
a  fort  and  large  monastery,  in  longitude  87°  38'  E.,  13,580  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  river,  here  called  the  Narichu,  becomes 
navigable.  It  thus  descends  2000  feet  in  a  course  of  about 
350  miles.  A  few  miles  below  Janglach^,  another  river,  called 
the  Baha  Tsanpu,  after  a  parallel  course  on  the  northern  side, 
empties  itself  into  the  main  stream.  From  Janglache,  people 
and  "goods  are  frequently  transported  down  the  river  in  boats 
to  Shigatze,*  a  distance  of  85  miles.  Shigatz^,  with  its  neigh- 
bouring palace-monastery  of  Teshu  Lumbo,  the  residence  of  the 
Teshu  Lama,  is  the  principal  place  in  the  Tsang  province.  It 
is  in  89°  7'  E.  longitude,  29°  4'  20"  N.  latitude,  and  11,800  feet 
above  the  sea. 

>  The  Mariam-la  pass  is  60  miles  '  The   Naouc    Tsanpu   and   Sanki 

east  of  Lake  Mansarowar,  the  source  of  Tsanpu  of  D'Anville. 

the  Sutl&j,  the  interval  heiug  partly  *  Tchanglas^    of    D'Anyille ;     and 

occupied  by  another  lake.  Dzianglodzd-dzouDg  of  Klaproth.    The 

*  The  Pundit  says  that  the  river  French  Dz  is  equivalent  to  our  J. 

here  has  three  names,  Tamgan  Khamba,  »  The  Jiks^  of  D'Anville,  and  Jika- 

Hachang,  and  Narichu  Sangpo.    On  dze  (mountain  pass)  of  Klaproth. 
D'Anville's  map  the  upper  course  is 
caUed  Yarou  Tsanpou. 


xzTiu  THE  PAINAM  AND  SHIANG-OHU  BITBBa  [Xxtb. 

Teshu  Lumbo  was  visited  by  Bogle  and  Turnery  and  is  fiilly 
described  by  the  former  envoy^  in  the  following  pages. 

Between  Janglach^  and  Shigatz^  two  rivers  fall  into  the 
Tsanpu  on  the  south  bank,  called  the  Shakiadong-chu  and  the 
Shiabgi-chn.  At  a  distance  of  30  miles  up  the  valley  of  the 
former  river,  13,860  feet  above  the  sea,  on  one  of  the  slopes 
of  the  Central  Chain,  is  the  great  monastery  of  Sakia-jong 
(Sankia  of  D*Anville),  the  head-quarters  of  the  Bed  Cap  sect 
of  Buddhists.  It  is  80  miles  from  Janglach^  and  48  from 
Shigatze.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  Shakiadong-chu  there  are 
many  villages,  with  cornfields,  and  a  considerable  town  nestles 
at  the  foot  of  the  "  Bed  Cap  **  monastery. 

Near  Shigatz^  two  rivers,  one  from  the  north  and  the  other 
from  the  south,  enter  the  Brahmaputra.  They  have  been  traced 
from  their  sources,  so  that  here  we  first  get  a  knowledge  of  the 
whole  width  of  the  vcdley,  from  the  Southern  and  Central  to 
the  Northern  Chain  of  the  Himalaya.  The  southern  river  is 
the  Penanang-chu  or  Painam.^  It  rises  from  two  lakes,  dis- 
covered by  Mr.  Bogle,  at  the  foot  of  the  Chumalhari  Peak,  on  the 
Southern  Bange,  forces  its  way  through  a  gorge  in  the  Central 
Bange,^  where  there  are  hot  springs,^  waters  the  fertile  valleys 
of  Giansu^  (Griangze-jong)  and  Painam  (Pena-jong),  and  falls  into 
the  Brahmaputra  near  Shigatz6.  This  river  was  first  followed 
by  Bogle  along  its  whole  course  in  1774,  then  by  Captain 
Turner  in  1782,  and  as  Heu:  as  Giansu  by  Manning  in  1811. 

The  river  fiowing  from  the  north  is  the  Shiang-chu.  It 
rises  near  the  Ehalamba-la  pass,  over  the  Northern  Kange, 
which  is  17,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  after  a 
lateral  course  in  the  mountains  of  about  30  miles,  it  flows  south- 

1  Monotohou  of  D'Anville.  hurried  with   violence  over  a  rocky 

*  In  croesing   the   Central   Bange,  bed.     High  rocks,  perpendicular  and 

Bogle  describes  the  route  as  "  passing  bare,    and    vast    impending    oraga  " 

through  valleys  bounded  by  bleak  and  (p.  221). 

barren  hills,  through  whose  openings  '  See  p.  182 ;  and  Turner,  p.  220. 

we  saw  distant  mountains  covered  with  *  Tohiantue  of  D'Anville;  and  Gial- 

snow"  (p.  74).     Turner  says:   "The  dze-dzoung of Klaproth. 

river    has    a    considerable    fall,    and 


INTB.]  YALLET  OF  LHASA.  zxix 

wards  down  a  valley  for  50  miles  into  the  Brahmaputra.  In 
this  valley  of  the  Shiang-chn  is  situated  the  town  and  monastery 
of  Chamnamring^  (Namling),  12,220  feet  above  the  sea,  the 
small  palace  of  Desheripgay,  and  other  religious  establishments. 
The  only  Englishman  who  has  ever  visited  this  valley  is  Mr. 
Bogle.  He  was  followed,  at  an  interval  of  nearly  a  century,  by 
C!olonel  Montgomerie's  explorer  of  1872. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Shiang-chu  to  the  point  where  the 
road  to  Lhasa  crosses  the  river,  a  distance  of  85  miles,  the 
course  of  the  Brahmaputra  is  entirely  unknown,  except  from 
the  Lama  Survey;'  but  at  that  point  it  has  been  crossed  by 
Mr.  Manning,  by  the  Pundit  of  1866,  and  the  explorer  of  1872. 
The  river  of  Lhasa,  called  the  Ki-chu'  by  the  explorer  of  1872, 
falls  into  the  Brahmaputra,  in  longitude  90^  80'  E.,  2  miles  to 
the  eastward  of  Chusul-jong,  where  the  river  is  11,334  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  city  of  Lhasa,  the  capital  of  the  U  province, 
and  the  residence  of  the  Dalai  Lama  and  of  the  Chinese  political 
agents,  is  in  the  valley  of  the  Ei-chu,  and  about  26  miles  from 
its  junction  with  the  Brahmaputra,  in  latitude  29°  39^  17"  N., 
and  11,700  feet  above  the  sea.  Lhasa  stands  in  a  level  plain, 
surrounded  by  mountains,  and  dotted  over  with  populous  monas- 
teries. This  upper  valley  of  the  Brahmaputra,  though  11,000 
to  15,000  feet  above  the  sea,  yields  harvests  of  barley  and 
millet,  has  abimdant  pastures,  and  there  are  clumps  of  trees, 
and  even  gardens,  round  the  towns  and  monasteries. 

Beyond  the  point  where  the  Lhasa  route  crosses  the  river, 
in  longitude  90^  40'  E.,  the  course  of  the  Brahmaputra  within  the 
mountains  is  entirely  unknown  (except  from  the  Lama  Survey/ 
for  a  distance  of  about  400  miles,  when,  under  the  name  of 
Bihong,  the  mighty  stream  emerges  into  the  valley  of  Assam 

1  Chamnamrim  of  D'Anville.  the  Lhaaa  river.  (*  Magasin  Asiatiqiie,' 

<  8ee  p.  bd.  ii.  p.  208.    Paris;  1826.) 

*  Kaltion  of  IVAnTille ;  and  Qald-         *  See  p.  Izi.    The  Lama  Siiryej  ap- 

jao-mooren  C  la  riviere  fiuibonde  *^  of     peara  to  extend  only  to  the  Oentral 

Klaproth,  who  gives  a  long  aooomit  of     Bange,  the  latitades  being  oairied  much 

too  hi  Bonth. 


Txx  COURSE  OF  THE  BRAHMAPUTRA.  [Intb. 

and  becomes  the  Brahmaputra  of  the  plains.  Tet  there  can  be 
no  reasonable  doubt  that  the  Tsanpu  of  Great  Tibet  and  the 
Brahmaputra  of  the  plains  are  one  and  the  same  river.  The 
question  has  occupied  the  attention  of  geographers  for  upwards 
of  a  century.  In  his  instructions,  dated  1774,  Warren  Hastings 
specially  enjoined  Mr.  Bogle  to  inform  himself  respecting 
the  course  of  the  Brahmaputra.^  D'Anville,  and  afterwards 
Klaproth,  believed  that  the  Tibet  river  was  the  upper  course  of 
the  Irrawaddy.  But  there  never  appears  to  have  been  any  doubt, 
among  English  geographers,  that  Bennell  was  correct  in  his 
identification  of  the  Tsanpu  with  the  Brahmaputra.  In  1825 
Captains  Burlton  and  Wilcox  were  sent  to  explore  its  course. 
Burlton  followed  up  the  course  of  the  Dihong,  until  he  was 
stopped  by  wild  tribes,  while  Wilcox  crossed  the  water  parting 
towards  Burma,  and  reached  the  banks  of  the  Irrawaddy.^ 
From  the  point  reached  by  Burlton  on  the  Dihong,  to  the  place 
where  Manning  crossed  the  Tsanpu,  there  is  an  interval  of 
about  400  miles,  and  a  difference  of  level  of  11,000  feet,  which 
is  entirely  unknown. 

On  the  south  the  Great  Tibetan  valley  of  the  Tsanpu  is 
bounded  by  the  Central  Bange  of  the  Himalaya,  the  culmi- 
nating peaks  of  which  are  covered  with  eternal  snow,  while  the 
sides  bear  the  weight  of  enormous  glaciers.  But  the  snow  line 
on  the  Central  Chain  is  much  higher  than  that  on  the  Southern 
Himalaya.  As  the  snow  is  deposited  by  southerly  winds  it  falls 
mainly  on  the  culminating  ridge  which  faces  the  south,  and 
screens  the  central  ridge  behind  it.  Thus  the  snow  line  is  50OO 
feet  lower  down  on  the  Southern  Himalaya  than  on  the  Central 
Chain.  From  this  latter  Bange  many  lofty  saddles  branch  in 
several  directions,  in  some  places  forming   inland  lakes,  in 

^  See  p.  9.  never  answered  by  Klaproth,  who  died 

*  See    *  AsiatLc    Besearches,'   xviii.  in  1835.  Subsequently,  both  Pemberton 

p.  314,  for  the  work  of  Wilcox  and  his  and  Hodgson  received  native  informa- 

colleague.     In  this  paper  Wilcox  re-  tion  identifying  the  Brahmaputra  and 

plied  to  Klaproth,  and  maintained  that  Dihong  with  the  Tsanpu. 
the  Dihong  was  the  Tsanpu.    He  was 


Imtb.]  the  central  CHAIN.  xxxi 

others  directing  the  course  of  rivers,  either  to  the  Tsanpa  or 
through  the  gorges  of  the  Southern  Bange.  Most  of  the  region 
between  the  Central  and  Southern  Ranges  is  within  the  terri- 
tory of  Tibet.  Much  of  our  knowledge  of  this  part  of  the 
country  is  stiU  dependent  on  the  map  compiled  by  D'Anville  in 
1733,  from  the  survey  of  the  Lamas,  and  the  rest  is  meanly 
derived  from  native  explorers. 

To  the  eastward,  in  an  entirely  unknown  country,  the 
Central  Bange  is  drained  by  numerous  tributaries  of  a  great 
river,  called  the  Lopra-cachu,  which  appear  to  break  through 
the  Southern  Bange  and  reach  the  plains  of  Assam,  under  the 
name  of  the  Subanshiri,  or  Lohit.  In  this  eastern  part  of  the 
Central  Bange  is  also  situated  that  remarkable  lake  of  Palti, 
Peiti,  or  Yamdok-chu,  which  is  delineated  by  D'Anville  as  sur- 
rounding a  large  central  island,  like  a  moat  encircling  a  pastle. 
But  the  western  shore  alone  has  been  described,  and  Mr.  Man- 
ning is  the  only  Englishman  who  has  ever  seen  it.  Both  he 
and  the  Pundit  of  1866  describe  it  as  being  separated  from  the 
valley  of  the  Tsanpu  by  a  range  of  mountains,  called  the 
Ehamba-la,^  a  spur  from  the  Central  Bange ;  and  the  Pundit 
adds,  that  the  lake  has  no  outlet.  Our  information  respecting 
Lake  Palti  will  be  found  condensed  in  a  note  to  Mr.  Manning's 
narrative  at  page  244. 

To  the  westward  of  the  Lopra-cachu  basin  there  appears  to 
be  a  high  saddle,  connecting  the  Central  and  Southern  Banges, 
for  the  river  of  Painam,  already  referred  to,  flows  north  from 
the  Chumalhari  Peak  to  the  Tsanpu,  forcing  its  way  through 
the  Central  Bange. 

Farther  westward  our  principal  informant  respecting  the 
Central  Bange,  and  the  region  between  it  and  the  Southern 
Himalayas,  is  Colonel  Montgomerie's  explorer  of  1871,  known 
as  No.  9. 

West  of  the  Painam   basin  various  lofty  spurs  from  the 

1  The  Chinese  geographers,  quoted  by  Klaproth,  name  the  Ehamba-la  as  on 
the  boundary  between  the  provinces  of  U  and  Tsang. 


xxxii  THE  CENTRAL  CHAIN.  [Intb. 

Central  Chain  lead  the  drainage,  for  a  distance  of  150  miles, 
into  the  Anm  river,  ^hich  breaks  through  the  Soothem  Hima- 
laya into  Nepal.  North  of  the  Aran  basin,  and,  like  the  Palti 
lake,  encircled  by  spurs  from  the  Central  Range,  is  the  Chomto- 
dong  lake,  about  20  miles  in  length  and  16  broad,  and  without 
an  outlet.  It  is  not  shown  on  the  map  of  D'Anville,  and  was, 
therefore,  discovered  by  No.  9  in  1871.  This  lake  is  14,700  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  main  chain  of  the  Central  Bange  towers  over 
the  Chomto-dong  lake  on  its  northern  side,  and  is  crossed  by 
the  Lagulung-la  pass  16,000  feet  above  the  sea,  where  the 
glacier  ice  is  seen  close  to  the  road  taken  by  travellers.  Ac- 
cording to  No.  9  this  part  of  the  region  between  the  Central 
and  Southern  Ranges  belongs  to  Sikkim,  and  the  boundary 
between  Sikkim  and  Tibet  is  on  the  Lagulung-la  of  the  Central 
Bange.  The  Central  Range  has  also  been  crossed  (by  No.  9) 
by  the  Dango-la  pass  above  the  great  Sakia  monastery,  and 
28  miles  east  of  the  Lagalung-la.  The  western  branch  of  the 
Aran  flows  from  west  to  east  through  an  extensive  plain,  be- 
tween the  Central  and  Southern  Ranges,  called  the  Dingri^ 
Maidan,  18,900  feet  above  the  sea,  where  there  is  a  town  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  houses.  The  Dingri  river  is  believed  to  rise  in 
a  large  lake,  which  is  shown  but  not  named  on  D'Anville's  map, 
but  which  was  heard  of  as  the  Dalgu-chu,  15,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  by  Colonel  Montgomerie's  explorers.  It  has  neyer  been 
visited.  Still  farther  to  the  west  the  Central  Chain  is  crossed 
by  the  Taku-Ia  pass,'  which  has  never  been  explored ;  the 
No-la  pass,  at  a  height  16,623  feet  above  the  sea;  and  the 
Photu-la,  at  a  height  of  15,080  feet  The  latter  is  just  above  the 
town  of  Loh-Mantang,'  a  place  of  very  considerable  trade,  and 
thousands  of  wild  ponies  find  pasture  on  the  slopes  along  the 
pass. 

In  Eastern  Nepal,  farther  west,  the  only  pass  with  which 

»  Tinkia  of  lyAnviUe. 

'  To  the  north  of  the  Ghmese  poet  of  Jonka-jong. 

•  Mustang  (?). 


INTB.]  THE  CENTRAL  CHAIN.  ^-rwH< 

we  hare  become  acquainted  is  that  of  Taklakhar,  in  the  gorge 
of  the  £arnali.  Bat  the  range  in  Eumaon  and  Bussahir  has 
been  examined,  and  four  passes  have  been  explored.^ 

Thus  the  Central  Bange  of  the  Himalaya  has  been  crossed  at 
six  different  points  Arom  east  to  west,  within  the  region  of 
which  we  are  treating.  First,  at  the  gorge  of  the  Painam  riyer, 
by  Bogle^  Tarner,  and  Manning ;  next,  at  the  Lagulung*la  and 
Dong-la  passes,  by  Na  9 ;  next,  at  the  No-la  pass,  by  the  Pundit 
of  1866 ;  and  lastly,  at  the  Photu-Ia  pass.  Yery  magnificent 
views  of  its  long  line  of  glaciers  and  snowy  peaks,  forming  a 
continuous  chain,  have  been  enjoyed  by  Dr.  Hooker  from  the 
Donkia  pass,  by  Bogle  and  Turner  from  the  foot  of  Chumal- 
bari,  by  Manning  looking  back  from  the  Khamba-la,  and  by 
Colonel  Montgomerie's  explorers  from  many  other  points. 
From  its  northern  face  the  ravines,  opening  into  valleys,  slope 
pretty  regularly  to  the  Tsanpu.  But  to  the  south,  the  region 
between  the  Central  and  Southern  ranges  is  broken  by  long 
parallel  spurs  and  saddles  of  great  height,  in  two  instances 
completely  encircling  large  lakes,  in  others  leading  the  rivers 
for  considerable  distances  in  courses  parallel  to  the  axes  of  the 
chains,  before  they  burst  through  one  or  other  of  them,  and 
flow  down  the  meridional  slopes. 

Such  is  the  topographical  aspect  of  Great  Tibet,  or  the 
provinces  of  U  and  Tsang,  comprised  in  the  valley  of  the  Tsanpu, 
or  upper  Brahmaputra,  and  in  the  broken  region  parallel  to  it, 
and  at  a  greater  elevation,  between  the  Central  and  Southern 
ranges. 

We  next  come  to  the  consideration  of  the  Southern  Hima- 
laya '  and  its  chain  of  stupendous  peaks,  of  the  hydrography  of 
its  southern  slope,  and  of  the  routes  leading  from  India  over  its 
dangerous  and  little-known  passes. 

*  Two  fiom  Miltm  to  Gk^nk ;  one      to  where  the  Sutlej  breaks  out  of  Tibe- 
fiom  Badzinath,  on  the  Ganges,  to  Gar-      tan  territory  at  Bhipki. 
tok;  and  one  from  Nilung  to  Gag^;         *  The  Rimola  Mountains  of  jyAn^ 
besides  the  DalhonsiejNmtojWhioh  leads      viUe  and   the   Ohinese   geographers. 

Perhaps  a  misprint  for  Himola. 

*  e 


zxxir  THE  SOUTHERN  CHAIN.  [Iiitb. 

The  portion  of  the  Southern  Himalaya  between  Great  Tibet 
and  India  consists  of  a  stupendous  chain  of  snow-clad  mountains^ 
with  a  line  of  culminating  peaks,  and  slopes  deeply  furrowed 
into  alternate  ravines  and  ridges,  which  gradually  sink  down 
into  the  valleys  of  the  Ganges  and  Brahmaputra.  The  distance 
from  the  culminating  ridge  to  the  plain  averages  about  ninety 
miles;  a  breadth  which  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson  describes  by 
dividing  it  into  three  equal  longitudinal  zones :  the  lower  com- 
prising the  DhtinSy  or  Maris  of  Nepal,  and  the  Ddars  of  Bhutan, 
as  well  as  the  hhabur  or  sal  forest,  and  the  terai;  ^  the  middle, 
between  the  Dhtins  and  the  snow  line ;  and  the  upper  or  alpine 
zone.  The  first  ranges  from  the  plains  to  4000  feet;  the 
central,  from  4000  feet  to  10,000  feet ;  and  the  upper,  from 
10,000  feet  to  29,000  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  amount  of 
heat  and  cold  in  these  several  zones  depends  almost  entirely 
on  the  elevation,  there  being  a  diminution  of  temperature  equal 
to  S''  or  3^°  Fahr.  for  every  thousand  feet  of  height.  But,  as 
regards  moisture,  every  movement  to  the  west  or  north-west 
brings  the  traveller  into  a  drier  climate,  and  takes  him  &rther 
and  farther  from  the  line  of  the  rainy  monsoon.  The  ridges 
also,  being  in  the  direct  line  of  the  monsoon,  check  its  progress, 
and  their  height  has  an  effect  on  the  amount  of  moisture  in 
adjacent  valleys.  Thus  there  are  great  differences  of  climate 
in  places  of  equal  elevation.  The  character  of  the  Himalayan 
slope  is  a  perpetual  succession  of  vast  ridges  with  narrow 
intervening  glens ;  and  open  valleys,  such  as  that  of  Nepal,  are 
very  rare.* 

In  ascending  the  gorges  from  the  terai  to  the  alpine 
ridges,  the  traveller  passes  through  three  zones  of  vegetation. 
In  the  lower  region  he  finds  splendid  timber  trees,  such  as 
the  sai  and  mssu,  banyans  and  peepuls,  bamboos  and  palms. 
The  central  slopes  are  clothed  with  oaks,  chestnuts,  magnolias, 

'  Tmit;  or  Tarot,  lowlands  or  swampy      ^Geography  of  the  HimilAya,'  p.  8, 
tracts  at  the  base  of  the  hills.    See,  for      note. 

the  deriyation  of  the  woid,  Hodgson's         *  See  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson's  ^Physloal 

Geography  of  the  Himalaya.' 


lOTB.]  RIVER  SYSTEMS  OP  NEPAL.  xxxy 

laurels,  rhododendrons,  cherry  and  pear  trees,  thorns,  ashes,  and 
elms ;  and  the  upper  region  is  that  of  junipers,  larches,  yews, 
poplars,  dwarf  rhododendrons,  hollies,  birches,  and  willows. 
The  fauna  is  also  divided  into  zones  of  altitude;  and  Mr. 
Hodgson  ^  has  given  us  an  interesting  account  of  the  zoological 
distribution. 

In  the  direction  of  its  length  the  Indian  slope  of  that  part  of 
the  Himalaya  of  which  we  now  have  to  treat  is  properly  divided 
according  to  its  river  basins.  Commencing  from  the  east, 
Nepal  embraces  the  Earnali  (or  Ghagra),  Gandak,  and  Eosi  river 
systems,  all  afiSuents  of  the  Ganges.  Sikkim  has  the  Tista 
and  Am-raachu,  or  Tursa,  rivers ;  and  Bhutan  is  traversed  by 
the  feeders  of  the  Minagaon,  Sankos,  Monass,  and  Lopra-cachu, 
or  Subanshiri.* 

In  the  west  of  Nepal,  the  Karnali  system  consists  of  the  rivers 
Kali  (or  Sarda),  Sweti-ganga,  Karnali,  Bhei,  Sarju,  and  Rapti. 
Their  sources  lie  between  the  Nanda-deri  (25,693  feet)  and  the 
Dawala-giri  Peak  (27,693  feet) ;  and  in  this  part  of  the  main 
ridge  one  pass  is  known,  leading  from  Nepal  to  Tibet,  along 
the  gorge  of  the  Karnali  river,  by  Taklakhar,  in  the  Tibetan 
province  of  Ari.  Both  the  Kali  and  Karnali  rise  in  the  Central 
Himalaya,  and  force  their  way  through  the  Southern  Chain. 
The  upper  zone  of  the  Karnali  basin  (Ghagra)  is  occupied  by  the 
district  of  Jumla  or  Tumilla.  Lower  down  is  the  country  of  the 
former  Baisi  (or  twenty-two)  Eajahs,  and  the  streams  unite  in 
the  plain  to  form  the  Ghagra  (Gogra). 

Central  Nepal  embraces  the  river  system  of  the  '*Sapt 
Gandaki,"  or  seven  Gandak  rivers,  called  the  Narayani,  Seti- 
Gandak,  Marsyanghi,  Buria  Gandak,  Tirsuli  Gandak,  and  two 
others  of  less  importance.  Their  sources  lie  between  the  peaks 
of  Dawala-giri  (27,600  feet)  and  Dayabung  (23,762  feet),  and 
they  converge  to  one  pointn  ear  Lora  Ghat,  within  the  hills,  and 
flow  down  to  the  Ganges  as  the  Gandak  river.  Four  of  these 
rivers,  namely,  the    Kali    Gandak,   Karnali    Gandak,  Buria 

»  *  Geography  of  the  Himalaya,*  p.  16.  »  Or  Lohit. 

C  2 


KZXTi  BIVER  SYSTEMS  OF  NEPAL.  (Tntb. 

Gkuidaky  and  Tirsuli  Gandak,  have  their  sonrces  in  the  Central 
Bange,  while  the  others  drain  the  dopes  of  the  Southern  Him&- 
laya  only.  There  are  three  passes  over  the  Central  Chain  into 
Tibet  by  the  gorges  of  the  Gandak  rivers,  namely,  the  Muk- 
iinath  pass,  by  the  river  Narayani  to  Mantang  (Mustang?); 
the  No-la,  by  the  Buria  Gandak ;  and  the  Taku-la  pass,  by  the 
Tirsuli  Gandak.  The  country  of  the  Gandaks  is  that  of  the 
former  Chaubisi  (twenty-four)  Bajahs. 

Eastern  Nepal  is  drained  by  the  Kosi  river  system,  con- 
sisting, like  the  Gtuidak,  of  seven  main  streams :  the  Milamchi, 
the  Bhotia  Kosi,  the  Tamba  Eosi,  the  Likhu,  the  Dud  Kosi,  the 
Arun,  and  the  Tambur  or  Tamor.  Their  sources  are  included 
between  the  Dayabung  (23,762  feet)  and  the  Kangchan 
(28,158  feet),  while  Mount  Everest  (29,002  feet)  towers  above 
the  left  bank  of  the  Arun.  The  Eosi  rivers,  after  draining  the 
Eiranti  country  in  Eastern  Nepal,  including  the  districts  of 
Ehatang  and  Chayanpur,  unite  within  the  hills  into  one  stream, 
which  flows  through  the  Murung,  or  Terai  region,  and  past 
Bijapdr,  places  often  mentioned  in  Bogle's  narrative.  The 
Bhotia  Eosi  and  Arun  rise  in  the  ^  Central  Chain,  and  the 
Arun  has  a  long  Tibetan  course  before  it  bursts  through  the 
Southern  Him&laya,  and  flows  down  to  the  Ganges.  There  are 
four  passes  from  Nepal  to  Tibet  by  the  Eosi  rivers :  one  up  the 
Bhotia  Eosi,  and  by  the  Nilam  pass  and  Euti,  a  place  mentioned 
several  times  by  Mr.  Bogle ;  a  second  up  the  Arun  river  and 
by  the  Hatia  pass ;  a  third  up  the  ravine  of  the  Tambor  river 
by  Wallanchtin,  and  over  the  Tipta-la ;  and  a  fourth  leads  up 
the  gorge  of  the  Tangma,  an  alpine  tributary  of  the  Tambur, 
over  the  Eanglachan  pass. 

The  three  Nepal  basins  drain  the  Indian  slopes  of  the 
Himalaya  for  a  distance  of  800  miles.  But  the  rivers  which 
unite  to  form  the  Gogra,  Gandak,  and  Kosi,  must  necessarily 
converge  to  three  separate  centres,  leaving  intervals  on  the 
lower  slopes.  In  that  between  the  Gandak  and  ELosi  is  the 
beautiful  valley  of  Nepal,  with  the  city  of  Eathmandu,  watered 


IHTS.]  8IKKIM1  AND  BHUTAN  BIYEBS.  xxxTii 

by  the  Bagmatti  river.  This  famoue  yalley,  surrounded  by 
motmtams,  is  16  miles  long  and  broad,  and  from  4200  feet  to 
4700  feet  above  the  sea. 

Sikkim,  called  Demo-jong  in  Mr.  Bogle's  narratiye,  is* 
drained  by  the  river  Tista,  and  its  affluents,  the  Lachen  and 
Lachung,  the  Buri  Bangit,  the  Moing,  the  Bangri,  and 
Bangchu ;  and  the  Am-machu  rises  near  Pari-jong,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Chumalhari  Peak  (23,929  feet),  and  flows  through  the 
Chumbi  valley,  which  separates  Sikkim  from  Bhutan.  It  con- 
tinues its  course  through  the  plains  of  Julpigori  as  the  Tursa. 
Two  passes,  the  Eongra-lama  and  Donkia,  besides  others  at  the 
heads  of  the  Lachen  and  Lachung  tributaries  of  the  Tfsta,  lead 
firom  Sikkim  to  Tibet;  while  Pari-jong,  at  the  head  of  the 
Chumbi  valley,  is  the  pass  used  by  Bogle,  Turner,  and  Manning. 
The  Chumbi  valley  belongs  to  Tibet,  and  not  to  Sikkim; 
though  the  Sikkim  Bajah  has  a  house  at  Chumbi,  and  resides 
there  during  part  of  the  year.  The  lofty  spur  dividing  the 
Chumbi  and  Tfsta  valleys,  called  the  Chumbi  Bange,  is  traversed 
by  several  passes,  the  Yak-la,  Cho-la,  and  Jelep-la.  •  From  the 
eastern  boundary  of  Chumbi,  the  states  of  Bhutan  and  Tawang 
extend  nearly  to  the  Loprarcachu,  a  distance  of  about  200  miles, 
with  an  average  width  of  90  miles  from  the  alpine  passes  of  the 
Southern  Him&Iaya  to  the  plains  of  India. 

The  diia/rs  of  Bhutan — literally  doors  or  approaches— em- 
brace the  strip  of  land  extending  along  the  foot  of  the  Bhutan 
mountains  in  Bengal  and  Assam,  like  the  terai  or  murung  of 
Sikkim  and  NepaL  There  are  eighteen  of  these  ddars  or 
passes:  eleven  on  the  frontier  of  Bengal,  and  seven  on  that 
of  Assam ;  the  breadth  of  this  duar  tract  being  from  ten  to 
twenty  miles,  and  the  length  220  miles.  The  more  southern 
frontiers  are  all  partially  under  rice  cultivation,  but  the  inter- 
vening space  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains  is  occupied  by  dense 
and  lofty  forest,  and  heavy  grass  jungla  Several  streams  and 
rivers  flow  over  pebbly  beds  from  the  gorges  of  the  diflTerent 
defiles  to  the  Brahmaputra.    The  most  northern  portion  of  the 


xxxTiu  DUAB8.    BIVEBS  OP  BHUTAN.  [Imtb. 

duars  presents  a  rugged,  irregular  surface,  occasioned  hj  the 
spurs  which  project  into  the  plain,  and  it  is  very  malarious. 
The  eleven  Bengal  diiars  are  Dalim-kotta,  Zamar-kotta,  Cha- 
murchi,  Lakhi,  Buza,  Bhulka,  Bara,  Gumar,  Bipu,  Gherrung  or 
Sidliy  and  Bagh  or  Bijni.  The  names  of  the  seven  Assam  duars 
are  Bun  Gumah  and  Sailing,  bordering  on  the  Durrung  dis- 
trict; and  Ghurkola,  Baksha,  Ghapaguri,  Ghapaklamar,  and 
Bijni,  bordering  on  Kamrup.  East  of  Durrung  is  the  Kureah- 
parah  Duar  held  by  the  Tawang  Bajah,  a  dependent  of  Tibet ; 
and  still  farther  east  are  the  wild  tribes  of  Abors,  Daflas,  and 
Mishmis,  extending  to  and  beyond  the  Dihong,  whose  moun- 
tains, generally  inaccessible,  have  recently  been  entered  by  our 
troops.* 

Above  the  duars,  up  to  the  snowy  ridge  of  the  Southern 
Himalaya,  all  Bhutan  is  a  succession  of  lofty  and  rugged 
mountains  separated  by  gorges,  and  a  few  valleys  somewhat 
wider  than  the  generality  of  the  rayines.  The  streams  are 
numerous  and  rapid,  in  beds  filled  with  huge  boulders. 

There  are  three  river  systems  in  Bhutan  besides  that  of  the 
Am-machu  or  Ghumbi,  which  flows  through  a  portion  of  that 
State  on  its  way  to  the  Brahmaputra.  The  first,  from  the  west, 
is  the  Pachu-Ghinchu,  which  is  formed  by  several  rivers.  The 
Paehu  flows  from  a  saddle  near  Pari-jong,  waters  the  Pare 
yalley,  and  joins  the  Ghinchu.  It  was  by  the  Pachu  valley  that 
Bogle,  Turner,  and  Manning  made  their  way  into  Tibet.  The 
Ghinchu,  receiving  the  Wangchu,  flows  through  the  valley  of 
Tassisudon,  and  joins  the  Pachu.  The  united  streams,  in  flow- 
ing down  into  Assam,  are  at  first  called  the  Pachu-Chinchu,  and 
then  the  Baidak  and  Minagaon.  The  next  river  system  of 
Bhutan  is  the  Machu,  which  flows  past  the  winter  palace  of 
Punakha,  and  enters  the  plain  as  the  Sankos.  Lastly,  by  far 
the  largest  river  of  Bhutan,  and  the  one   whose  tributaries 

>  Under  the  oommand  of  Brigadier  SuTToy    of   India,   who   aooompanied 

Stafford,  O.B.      See  a  paper  on  the  this  expedition.     ('  J.  A.  S.  B^'  xli?. 

*•  Geology  of  the  Dafla  Hills,"  by  Major  part  ii.) 
Godwin  Austen,  of  the  Topographical 


IHTB.]  THE  HIM^LATAN  SYSTEM.  xzxix 

drain  the  widest  extent  of  country,  is  the  Monass*  Its  basin 
occupies  the  eastern  half  of  Bhutan.  There  are  four  principal 
Monass  affluents:  the  Matichu,  which  flows  past  Tongsu;  the 
Tongchn,  Eorichu,  and  Monass.  Seyeral  passes  into  Tibet  are 
said  to  lead  up  the  gorges  of  these  rivers  into  the  basin  of  the 
Loprarcachu.  The  region  of  the  Monass  is  unexplored,  except 
by  Femberton,  and  nothing  is  known  beyond  his  route.  Some 
of  the  peaks  of  the  Bhutan  Him&laya,  eastward  of  Chumalhari, 
haye,  howeyer,  been  measured  from  the  Assam  plain  by  Mr. 
Lane.  One  at  the  head  of  the  Matichu  is  24,737  feet ;  and  two 
twin  peaks,  at  the  head  of  branches  of  the  Monass,  are  re- 
spectiyely  20,965  feet  and  20,576  feet  aboye  the  sea. 

The  aboye  topographical  sketch  is  intended  to  embrace  the 
regions  with  which  the  narratives  in  the  present  volume  have 
to  do;  and  to  describe  cursorily  the  orography  and  hydrography 
of  Great  Tibet,  Nepal,  Sikkim,  and  Bhutan. 

Travellers  and  systematic  geographers  have  devoted  a  large 
share  of  attention  to  the  structure  of  the  great  Himdlayan  mass, 
and,  in  my  *  Memoir  on  the  Indian  Surveys/^  I  have  given  some 
account  of  the  views  of  the  physical  character  of  the  Him&laya 
formed  by  Herbert,  Henry  Strachey,  Forbes  Royle,  Cunningham, 
Thomson,  Brian  Hodgson,  and  Hooker.  Mr.  Hodgson  has  stated 
his  view  of  the  question  with  remarkable  clearness,  and  his  ex- 
planation of  the  hydrography  of  Nepal  is  a  masterpiece  of  lucid 
description.  Mr.  Trelawney  Saunders  has  also  treated  of  the 
whole  subject  in  his  'Memoir  of  the  Mountains  and  Biver 
Basins  of  India,'  and  has  illustrated  his  view  of  Himalayan 
geography  by  means  of  a  large  diagram  which  has  not  been 
published.  But  the  Himdlayan  portion  of  the  beautiful  and 
very  clear  maps  of  India  which  illustrate  my  *  Moral  and 
Material  Progress  Reports  for  1871-72  and  1872-73,'  are 
based  upon  the  large  diagram,  the  first  attempt,  of  which  I 
am  aware,  to  give  clear  expression  to  the  whole  Himalayan 
system  by  means  of  cartographic  illustration.     Mr.  Saunders 

«  Page  247. 


THE  HDHALATAN  STBTESH. 


[Lmt^ 


shows  that  the  Himalaya  oulminates  in  two  parallel  ranges 
running  through  their  entire  lengthy  which  I  have  called  the 
Southern  and  Central  Him&layan  Chains,  separated  by  a  series 
of  T^leys.  This  view  is  in  opposition  to  those  yery  ably  stated 
by  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson,  Dr.  Thomsoui  Dr.  Hooker,  and  others, 
who  consider  that  the  Southern  Himalaya,  with  its  line  of  snowy 
peaks,  is  not  a  true  chain  or  eorcUZZsm^  because  it  is  broken  by 
the  defiles  through  which  rivers  force  their  way,  whose  sources 
are  on  what  I  have  called  the  Central  Chain.  They  consider 
the  Southern  Himalaya  to  be  not  a  chain,  but  a  series  of  spurs 
from  the  Central  Chain.  It  will  at  once  be  seen  that  this  is  not 
a  question  of  fact,  but  of  nomenclature,  which  would  scarcely 
have  arisen  if  the  similar  facts  relating  to  other  great  mountain 
masses,  such  as  the  chains  or  Cordilleras  of  the  Andes,  had  been 
oonsidered.  When  this  is  done  it  will  be  seen  that  a  great  chain 
of  mountains,  with  a  continuous  series  of  culminating  ridges 
and  a  continuous  slope,  is  a  chain,  whetiiier' rivers  force  their 
way  through  its  gorges  or  not,  and  that  these  phenomena  of  the 
Himalaya  occur  also  in  the  Andes,  which  are  nevertheless 
properly  called^cordilleras.^ 

Warren  Hastings  was  ihe  first  to  notice  the  striking  analogy 
between  the  Andes  and  the  Hlmdlaya,^  after  perusing  the  work 


*  Mr.  VTilfired  Heeley,  in  an  other- 
wise admirable  article  on  Tibet,  in  the 
'  Caloutta  Beview '  (Jnly,  1874,  p.  188), 
carries  this  theory  of  the  broken  chaki 
to  an  extreme.  He  tells  ns  that  the 
Himalaya  "  is  not  one  continnons  sierra 
[probably  meaning  oordiUera\  bnt  rather 
a  series  of  short  parallel  ranges  running 
south  from  the  watershed  [presumably 
meaning  voater  parting\  and  each  having 
its  highest  peak  near  its  southern  ter- 
mination. The  ridges  may  be  joined 
by  spurs,  and  the  passes  into  Tibet 
cross  these,  not  the  main  mountain 
crest."  Again,  he  quotes  Dr.  Hooker, 
who  says  (*  R.  G.  8.  J^*  xx.  p.  52),  "  In 
Sikkim  the  Himalayas  consist  of  meri- 
dional ridges  separated  by  water  flowing 


southward.    They  are  not  a  continuous 
snowy  chain." 

>  All  really  efficient  administrators 
of  the  first  order  are  geographers  by 
instinct,  and  Warren  Hastings  was  no 
exception  to  the  rule.  Under  his 
auspices  surveying  operations  were  care- 
fully fostered  and  encouraged.  Major 
Bennell,  the  father  of  Indian  geo- 
graphers, made  his  famous  survey  of 
Bengal,  and  constructed  his  maps  of 
tho  Ghmges  and  Brahmaputra,  in  the 
days  of  the  first  Govemor-GtoeraL  Sir 
John  Call,  the  Surveyor-General,  com- 
piled a  general  map  of  India.  Colonel 
Pearse,  the  friend  of  Hastings,  and  his 
second  in  the  duel  with  Francis,  and 
Colonel  Colebrooke,  took  a  series  of 


Ism]  THE  ANDES  AND  THE  HIMALAYA.  ill 

o£M.  de  la  Candamine.^  The  analogy  between  the  two  great 
moantam  masses  of  the  old  and  new  world  is  indeed  most  re* 
markable.  Both  consist  of  three  parallel  chains.  In  both  great 
Etyers  have  their  sources  in  the  inner  chain^  and  force  their  way 
through  the  other  two.  The  cuesta  of  La  Baya,  separating  the 
yalley  of  the  Yilcamayu  bom  the  basin  of  Titioaca,  is  the  coun- 
terpart of  the  Mariam-la  saddle  dividing  the  basin  of  the  Sutlej 
&om  the  yalley  of  the  Brahmaputar&  In  both  systems  numeiy 
ous  rivers  rise  in  the  central  cordillera,  and  after  lateral 
courses  between^  the  two,  eventually  force  a  way  through  the 
outer  chain.  The  Southern  Himalaya  bears  an  exact  analogy 
to  the  outer  Andes  which  rise  from  the  valley  of  the  Amazon. 
Both  have  a  low  range  at  their  fee^  enclosing  valleys  or  dhuns ; 
both  have  deep  gorges,  separated  by  lofily  ridges^  which  are 
spurs  from  a  main  chain  of  culminating  snowy  peaks;  and  in 
both  seyeral  rivers  rise  in  an  inner  central  range,  and  force 
their  way  through  profound  ravines  between  the  culminating 
summits.  The  rivers  Mapiri  and  Chuqui-apu  pierce  the  cor« 
dillera,  flowing  through  chasms  in  beds  1*8,000  feet  below  the 
snowy  peak  of  Illimani  which  almost  overhangs  one  of  them. 
Yet  no  one  maintains  that  the  ^*  Cordillera  Beal  de  los  Andes  '* 
is  not  a  chain  of  mountains  I  The  analogy  between  the  land  of 
the  Yncas  and  the  plateau  of  Tibet  may  be  carried  still  farther. 
lb  both  the  staple  produce  is  wool,  yielded*  by  llamas,  alpacas^ 
and  vicunas  in  Peru,  and  by  sheep  and  shawl  goats  in  Tibet.  In 
both  the  beasts  of  burden  are  llamas  or  sheep  needing  a'  wide 
aj^a  of  pasturage,  and  consequently  numerous  passes-  on.  their 
journeys^  in  order  that  a  profitable  trade  may  be  carried  on  with 
the  low  country.  Both  abound  in  the  precious  metal&  In  both 
the  people  cultivate  hardy  cereals,  and  species  of  cheuopodium,' 
called  qainua  in  Peru,  and  hattu  in  Tibet.  The  people,  too,  have 
many  beliefs  and  customs  in  common,  down  to  that  of  heaping 

eabnxooniSctl  obseirfttiona*  and  mapped  dart,  and  Blair  ware  actiTely  employed 

tile  ooontry  along  the  Qoa«t  from  Gal*  in  preparing  oharts. 
cntta  to  Madrao.     Nor  were  marine         '  See  p.  12. 
snrreya  neglected ;  and  Ritehie,  Hud- 


zlii  THE  INHABITANTS  OF  TIBET.  Iittr.] 

up  huge  piles  of  stones  on  the  crests  of  mountain  passes ;  and 
the  Tibetan  is  actuated  by  the  same  feeling  when  he  mutters 
his  Om  mani  padmi  hum,^  as  the  Peruyian  when,  on  passing 
a  heap  of  stones,  he  bows  and  reverentially  exclaims,  Apachieia 
mttehhani!^ 

The  analogy  pointed  out  by  Warren  Hastings,  and  which  I 
have  ventured  to  carry  a  little  farther,  strikingly  suggests  the 
importance  of  taking  a  comprehensive  view  of  such  questions  as 
those  of  the  physical  structure  of  a  great  mountain  range,  or  of 
the  best  means  of  establishing  commercial  intercourse  between 
inhabitants  of  a  lofty  plateau  difficult  of  access,  and  those  of 
tropical  yalleys  separated  by  snowy  mountains.  If  the  frightful 
gorges  of  the  Andes  did  not  prevent  the  Yncas  from  exchanging 
the  products  of  the  iierras  for  the  coca  of  the  tnontancia,  there 
is  nothing  that  a  wise  policy  may  not  overcome  to  hinder  the 
Lamas  of  Tibet  and  the  Bulers  of  India  from  establishing  a 
friendly  interchange  of  commodities  between  the  lofty  plateaux 
of  the  one,  and  the  fertile  tropical  valleys  of  the  other.  ^ 

The  inhabitants  of  Tibet  belong  to  the  great  Mongolian 
family,  and  they  are  described  by  Huc^  as  a  people  with  small, 
contracted,  black  eyes,  thin  beard,  high  cheek  bones,  flat  nosee^ 
wide  mouths,  and  thin  lips.  The  skins  of  the  upper  classes  are 
as  white  as  those  of  Europeans,  but  the  ordinary  complexion  is 
tawny.  They  are  of  middle  height,  and  combine  agility  and 
suppleness  with  force  and  vigour.  They  are  said  to  be  generous 
and  frank,  brave  in  war,  religious,  and  fond  of  display.  They 
must  be  hardy  mountaineers,  and  have  developed  most  of  the 
natural  resources  of  their  country.  They  have  domesticated 
the  yak,  breed  ponies  in  large  numbers,  sheep  and  goats, 
cultivate  such  cereals  as  will  ripen  in  their  climate,  work  the 

*  *^0h!  the  jetc^ in  the  lotus.  Amen!**  who  enables  me  to  xaiee  this  burden, 

eqmyalent  to  our  **  Fater  noster  qui  es  in  and  who  grants  me  strength  to  ascend 

ccefo."  such  ragged  heights  as  these/'    (8ee 

s  Qnichna  words,  meaning  literally,  my  translation  of  the  '  Gommentarios 

"I offer  thanks  that  this  has  been  carried; "  Reaies  de  los  Tncaa,  por  el  Ynca  Gar« 

or,  as  the  Ynoa  explains  it,  **  I  give  oUasso  la  Vega,'  L  p.  117.) 

thanks  and  make  an  offering  to  Him  *  iL  p.  141. 


ISTB.] 


THE  PON  BELIQION.    BUDDHISM. 


xlUi 


precious  metals,  and  are  skilfdl  weavers  and  potters.  Their 
language  is  said  to  be  more  nearly  allied  to  that  of  Burma  than 
to  any  other  of  the  same  group  ;^  but  it  has  not  yet  been  ex- 
haustiyely  studied.^  It  is  now  confined  to  the  yalleys  of  the 
Tsanpu,  Upper  Indus,  Sutlej,  and  Ghenab.  The  early  history 
of  the  Tibetans,  before  the  introductiou  of  Buddhism,  is  probably 
quite  fabulous ;  although  there  is  some  trace  of  the  old  religion 
of  Tibet  lingering  in  the  eastern  province  of  Eam.  It  is  called 
the  Bon  or  Pan  religion,  and  appears  to  have  been  a  worship  of 
the  powers  of  nature,  with  a  creed  identical  with  the  Chinese 
doctrine  of  Taosse.^  The  people  still  have  deities  of  the  hills, 
ihe  trees,  the  dales,  and  lakes. 

It  was  centuries  after  the  death  of  Sakya  Muni  in  India,  in 
543  B.G.,  that  the  light  of  his  doctrine  spread  over  the  Tibetan 
plateau.  The  disciples  of  Buddha  long  had  to  contend  against 
opposition  in  their  own  country;  their  religion  of  peace  and  good- 
will, not  to  man  only,  but  to  all  the  animated  creation,  was  very 
gradually  accepted,  and  it  was  more  than  three  centuries  before 
the  famous  King  Priyadarsi,  or  Asoka,  made  Buddhism  the  re- 
ligion of  the  State  in  India.  Then  a  new  era  dawned  upon  the 
world.    Former  inscriptions  of  ancient  kings  that  have  been 


*  The  Jesuit  and  Capuchin  fathers 
who  were  in  LhaBa  in  the  last  oentnry 
Btndied  the  Tibetan  language,  and  their 
reoords  enabled  Giorgi  to  publish  his 
'Alphabetum  Thibetanum'  at  Borne, 
in  1759.  In  1826,  P.  Sohroter  brought 
out  ^  Tibetan  -  English  dictionary, 
edited  by  John  Marshman,  which  was 
published  at  the  Serampore  Press,  and 
followed  by  the  grammar  and  diction- 
ary of  J.  J.  Schmidt,  in  1889.  Mean- 
while, that  learned  and  indefiitigable 
scholar,  Csoma  de  Koros,  produced  a 
gnunmar  and  dictionary  of  Tibetan,  at 
Calcutta,  in  1884.  There  are  also  the 
grammar  ef  Ph.  Ed.  Foucaux,  and  the 
'Tibetische  Studien'  of  A.  Schiefher. 
In  1866,  the  Moravian  missionary, 
H.  A.  Xaschke,  published  his  grammar 


and  smaU  dictionary,  lithographed  in 
British  Lahoul ;  and ,  he  commenced 
the  publication  of  a  more  complete 
Tibetan  lexicon  in  1871. 
*  '  General  Cunningham  says  that  it 
resembles  English  in  the  similarity  in 
sound  of  many  words,  and  in  that  words 
are  not  spelt  as  they  are  pronounced. 
In  Tibetan,  to  bring  is  brang ;  can  is 
kyan ;  dull  is  dal ;  thick  is  tuk ;  wool  is 
tea/;  lump  is  Ihumpo  (lutnbo);  there  is 
der ;  here  is  cUr ;  rogue  is  rog,  ('  Ladak,' 
p.  888.) 

*  The  question  of  the  Pen  religion  of 
Tibet  is  discussed  by  Colonel  Yule  in 
his  edition  of  'Marco  Polo,'  i.  pp.  Sl&- 
819.  (Bee  also  Cunningham's*  Ladak,' 

p.  858.) 


zliv  THB  CHINESE  PILCFBIM&  [IimL 

laboriously  deciphered,  reooid  bloody  victories  and  ruthless 
oonqaests.  Bat  the  rock  and  pillar  edicts  of  the  Bajah  Priya- 
darsi  ^  inculcate  goodness,  yirtue,  piety,  and  kindness  to  animals; 
and  they  ordain  the  introduction  of  a  general  system  of  instruo** 
tion  in  moral  conduct,  and  the  establishment  of  medical  diq>en-^ 
saries  throughout  the  empire.  It  was  Asoka  or  Priyadarsi  who 
first  sent  missionaries  beyond  his  frontiers  to  spread  the  glad 
tidings  of  Dharmay  or  religion,  among  distant  peoples.  His  son 
Makinda  brought  the  sacred  canon  to  Ceylon,^  together  with 
the  Pali  language  of  Magadha,  in  which  it  was  first  taught ; 
and  in  that  island  Buddhism  has  been  preserved  in  its  purest 
and  most  primitive  form.'  At  about  the  same  time  the  new 
religion  was  introduced  into  Ladak,  Khotan,  Afghanistan,  and 
the  countries  of  the  Oxus  vedley ;  and  it  reached  China  at  about 
the  commencement  of  the  Christian  era.  But  it  seems  clear 
that  Great  Tibet  remained  in  darkness  for  some  centuries  later, 
though  almost  surrounded  by  the  peace-giving  light  of  Dharma. 
The  routes  taken  by  the  Chinese  pilgrims  to  India  show 
that  Tibet  was  at  that  time  still  in  outside  darkness.  When, 
in  the  beginning  of  the  fifth  century,^  FarHian,  the  heroic 
Buddhist  monk,  and  his  four  companions,  set  out  from  China 
to  visit  the  sacred  sites  in  India,  and  to  obtain  copies  of  the 
Scriptures,  they  took  the  circuitous  road  to  the  north  of 
Tibet,  and  reached  Ehotan,  tlien  a  stronghold  of  Buddhist 
culture.  The  farther  route  of  Fa-Hian  was  over  the  Pamfr  and 
Hindu  Eush^  and  across  the  Swat  valley — that  region  which 
has  lately  been  found  to  be  so  rich  in  Buddhist  sculptures-^to 
the  Punjab.  Two  centuries  later,  the  route  of  the  other  pilgrim, 
whose  narrative  has  been  preserved,  Hiuen  Thsang,  also  avoided 
Great  Tibet"  by  a  still  wider  circuit.    He  travelled  over  Tsun- 

^  See  my  'Memoir  cm  the  Indian         '  b^.  316. 
Suryeya,'  p.  177)  for  some  acoonnt  of         *  See  the  intzodnctiaB.to  Mxi  QhU- 

the  labours  of  James  Prinsep  and  his  den's  Pali  Dictionaiy. 
fellow-workers,    in    deciphering    the         *  a.d.  399-414. 
Priyadarsi  edicts,  and  for  references  to         *  a.d.  629-645. 
more  complete  sources  of  information. 


L9TB.]  TIBETAN  BUDDHISM.  zW 

garia  to  the  yalley  of  the  Jaxartes,  crossed  the  Ozus  into  Balkh^ 
and  entered  £abul  by  the  Bamian  pass,  finding  the  religion  of 
Buddha  in  a  flourishing  state  along  the  whole  of  his  route. 

It  waSy  indeed,  at  about  the  period  of  Hiuen  Thsang's 
journey  that  Buddhism  first  began  to  find  its  way  into  Tibet, 
both  from  the  direction  of  China  and  that  of  India;  but  it  came 
in  a  very  different  form  from  that  in  which  it  reached  Ceylon 
seyeral  centuries  earlier.  Traditions,  metaphysical  specula- 
tions, and  new  dogmas  had  overlaid  the  origincd  Scriptures  with 
an  enormous  collection  of  more  recent  reyelation.  Thus  Tibet 
received  a  vast  body  of  truth,  and  could  only  assimilate  a 
portion  for  tiie  establishment  of  a  popular  belief.  Since  the 
original  Scriptures  had  been  conveyed  into  Ceylon  by  the  son 
of  Asoka,  it  had  been  revealed  to  the  devout  Buddhists  of 
India  that  their  Lord  had  created  the  five  Dhyani  or  celestial 
Buddhas,  and  that  each  of  these  had  created  five  Buddhisatwas, 
or  beings  in  the  course  of  attaining  Buddha-hood.  The  Tibetans 
took  firm  hold  of  this  phase  of  the  Buddhistic  creed,  and  their 
distinctive  belief  is  that  the  Buddhisatwas  continue  to  remain 
in  existence  for  the  good  of  mankind  by  passing  through  a 
succession  of  human  beings  from  the  cradle  to  the  grave.  This 
characteristic  of  their  faith  was  gradually  developed,  and  it  was 
long  before  it  received  its  present  form ;  but  the  succession  of 
incarnate  Buddhisatwas  was  the  idea  towards  which  the  Tibetan 
mind  tended  from  the  first.  At  the  same  time,  as  Max  Mtiller 
says:  ''The  most  important  element  of  the  Buddhist  reform 
has  always  been  its  social  and  moral  code,  not  its  metaphysical 
theories.  That  moral  code,  taken  by  itself,  is  one  of  the  most 
perfect  which  the  world  has  ever  known ;"  and  it  was  this  bless- 
ing that  the  introduction  of  Buddhism  brought  into  Tibet. 

It  is  said  that  a  native  king  established  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment at  Lhasa  in  617  a.d.  ;  that  he  married  a  Chinese  princess 
of  the  Buddhist  persuasion,  and  that  he  sent  his  minister  to 
India,  who  returned  with  the  great  body  of  truth  contained  in 
the  Buddhist  canonical  Scriptures,  framed  the  Tibetan  alphabet 


xlvi  THE  REFORMER  TBONG-KHAPA.  [Intb. 

from  the  Devanagari  of  India,  and  commenced  the  translation  of 
the  canon  from  Sanscrit  into  the  language  of  the  country.*  For 
a  long  time  there  was  a  struggle  for  supremacy  between  the 
old  nobility  and  the  new  hierarchy,  in  which,  after  several 
vicissitudes,  the  Buddhist  monks  gained  the  ascendancy. 

It  was  during  this  early  period  of  Buddhist  rule  in  Tibet 
that  the  first  European  visited  the  country.  We  are  indebted 
to  Colonel  Yule*  for  a  complete  knowledge  of  the  adventurous 
journey  of  Friar  Odoric  of  Pordenone,  between  a.d.  1316  and 
1330.  It  was  on  his  return  from  Cathay  that,  after  travelling 
many  days  through  Eansan,  the  modem  Shensi  and  Szechuen, 
he  came  to  the  chief  and  royal  city  of  Tibet,  obviously  Lhasa, 
all  built  with  walls  black  and  white.  He  tells  us  that,  in  this 
city,  no  one  dare  to  shed  the  blood  of  any,  whether  man  or  beast, 
and  that  there  dwells  the  AhcLssi^  which  in  their  tongue  is  the 
Pope.  More  than  three  centuries  elapsed  before  another  European 
visited  Lhasa,  and  momentous  events  took  place  in  the  interval. 

In  the  middle  of  the  fourteenth  century  a  great  reforming 
Lama  arose  in  Tibet,  named  Tsong-khapa,  who  proved  to  be  an 
incarnation  of  one  of  the  Dhyani  Buddhas,  named  Amitabha. 
He  was  born  near  Lake  Eokonor  in  1358,  and  died  in  1419. 
Tsong-khapa  built  and  took  up  his  abode  in  the  Galdan  monas- 
tery, near  Lhasa,  of  which  he  was  the  first  khanpo  or  abbot,  and 
where  his  body  lies.  He  forbade  clerical  marriages,  prohibited 
necromancy,  and  introduced  the  custom  of  frequent  conferences 
among  the  Lamas.  His  reforms  led  to  a  schism  in. the  Tibetan 
church.  The  old  sect,  which  resisted  all  change,  adhered  to 
their  dress,  and  are  called  Shammars,  or  Dukpas,  and  Bed 
Caps.  Their  chief  monastery  is  at  Sakia-jong,  and  they  retain 
supremacy  in  Nepal  and  Bhutan.    The  reformers  adopted  a 

*  It  had  previoTifily  been  translated  ponderous  erndition  of  Giorgi  (*  Alpha- 
from  Pali,  the  old  language  of  Maga-  betnro  Tibetanum/  p.688),  discusses  the 
dha,  into  Sanscrit.  probable  meaning  and  derivation  of  thifi 

*  •  Cathay,  and  the  Road  Thither,'  word  Ahaisi,  used  by  Odoric  (ubi  sop. 
i.  p.  146.  p.  149,  note). 

»  Colonel  Yule,  after  putting  aside  the 


IsTB]  THE  DALAI  AND  TESHU  LAMAS.  xlyu 

yellow  dress,  and  are  distisguished  as  the  Yellow  Gap,  or 
Grelupka  sect;  since  the  days  of  Tsong*khapa  they  have  been 
in  the  ascendant  in  Tibet. 

Gednn-tubpay  another  great  reformer,  was  contemporary 
with  Tsong-khapa,  haying  been  born  in  1339,  and  dying  in  1474. 
He  built  the  monastery  at  Teshu  Lnmbo  in  1445,  and  it  was 
in  the  person  of  this  perfect  Lama,  as  he  was  called,  that  the 
system  of  perpetual  incarnation  commenced.  He  was  himself 
the  incarnation  of  the  Buddhisatwa  Padma  Pani,  and  on  his 
death  he  relinqnished  the  attainment  of  Buddha-hood  that  he 
might  be  bom  again  and  again  for  the  benefit  of  mankind. 
When  he  died,  his  successor  was  found  as  an  infant,  by  the 
possession  of  certain  diyine  marks. 

Thus  arose  the  two  powerful  Abbots  of  Galdan  and  Teshu 
Lumbo,  both  of  the  Gelupka  or  Yellow  sect ;  but  the  former 
were  soon  eclipsed  by  the  superior  piety  and  learning  of  the  in- 
carnations at  Teshu  Lumbo;  and  the  sixth  in  succession  of 
those  incarnations  made  himself  master  of  all  Tibet,  and  founded 
the  successions  of  the  Dalai  and  Teshu  Lamas  as  they  now 
exist.  This  was  Nayang  Lobsang.  He  rebuilt  the  palace  or 
monastery  of  Potala,  at  Lhasa,  in  1643,  and  in  1650  he  yisited 
the  Emperor  of  China,  and  accepted  the  designation  of  Detlai 
(or  ocean)  Lama.  After  a  long  reign  he  went  away  to  reappear 
as  two  infants,  if  not  three;  for,  although  he  was  the  fifth 
Teshu  Lama,  he  was  the  first  Dalai ;  and  since  his  time  there 
haxe  been  two  great  incarnations  of  equal  rank :  the  Dalai  Lama 
at  Potetla,  who  is  an  incarnation  of  the  Buddhisatwa  Ayalo- 
kiteswara ;  and  the  Teshu  Lama  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  the  incarna- 
tion of  the  Buddhisatwa  Amitabha,  and  also  of  Tsong-khap% 
who  was  himself  the  incarnation  of  Amitabha.  The  Dalai 
Lama  also  has  the  title  of  Gycdba  Bimboche,  or  ^'the  Gem  of 
Majesty ;"  and  the  Teshu  Lama  that  of  Panchen  Bimboch^,  or 
^'  the  Gtera  of  Learning.*'  When  the  Lamas  assume  political 
functions  they  are  also  Gyalpo  or  king;  but  the  regency  at 
Lhasa  is  generally  held  by  a  yicegerent  or  temporal  soyereign^ 


xlviii 


THE  TABANATH  LAMA. 


[IlTTR. 


called  the  Gesub  Bimboch6,  or  Nomen-khan.  The  death  of  tho 
first  Dalai  Lama  was  concealed  at  Lhasa  for  no  less  than  sixteen 
years,  by  an  ambitious  Nomen-khan,  and  two  false  Lamas  were 
set  up  afterwards.  In.  17 17  an  army  of  Dsungarians,  or  Eleaths, 
stormed  Lhasa,^  and  the  Nomen-khan  was  murdered ;  but  at 
length,  in  1720,  Kang-hi,  the  Emperor  of  China,  exerted  his 
power  to  restore  order,  and  the  true  Dalai  Lama,  named 
Lobsang  Kalsang,  was  duly  installed.  Two  Chinese  Political 
Besidents,  or  Ambas,  with  an  adequate  force,  were,  however, 
permanently  established  at  Lhasa,  at  the  same  time. 

There  is  another  incarnate  Buddhisatwa,  in  the  person  of  a 
Grand  Lama,  whose  influence  extends  over  Mongolia,  but  whose 
existence  has  generally  been  ignored  in  English  histories  of 
Tibetan  Buddhism.  This  is  the  Taranath  Lama,^  whose  suc- 
cession commenced  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century 
certainly,  if  not  earlier ;  for  a  Taranath  Lama,  who  was  bom 
in  1575,  completed  a  work  on  Buddhism,  in  the  Tibetan 
language,  in  1608.  The  Taranath  Lama  was  also  known  as  the 
Je-tsun-tampa,^  or,  according  to  the  Abbe  Hue,  Guison-tamba.^ 
Hue  tells  us  that  the  Guison-tamba  formerly  had  his  seat  at  a 
place  called  Koukou-Khotou,  or  **  Blue  Town,"  beyond  the  Great 
Wall  of  China,  and  near  the  northern  bend  of  the  Yellow  Biyer. 
When  the  Emperor  Eang-hi  (1662-1723)  was  engaged  in  his 
campaign  against  the  Ealmuks,  or  Eleuths,  he  paid  a  visit  to 
the  GuiBon-tamba,  and  owing  to  some  fancied  want  of  respect 
on  the  part  of  the  holy  man,  one  of  the  Emperor's  ofScers  drew 


^  An  account  of  the  extraordinary 
march  of  the  Ddimgarians  is  given  l^ 
Father  Palladiufi  of  the  Russian  Peking 
Mission,  in  one  of  bis  articles  on  China 
in  1848. 

'  I  am  indebted  for  the  research  re- 
specting the  Taranath  Lama  to  Mr. 
Trelawney  Saunders.  The  text  of 
the  work»  referred  to  in  the  text,  was 
printed  in  Tibetan,  from  four  manu> 
scripts,  for  the  Imperial  Academy  of 
St.  Petersburg,  in  ISeS,  with  a  Bussian 


translation  and  notes  by  Professor  Waa- 
siljew,  and  also  with  a  Gknnan  trans- 
lation by  Professor  Schiefner.— '^  Uia- 
n&tbfls  de  Doct.  Buddh.  in  India  propa- 
gatione  narratio.  Contextum  Tibeticum 
e  oodd.  Petropol,  Ed.  Ant.  Bchiefher. 
Petropoli,  1868," 

'  8chiefner*s  German  translation  of 
Wassiljew's  Bussian  translation  of 
*  Tarauath,'  pp.  26-28. 

*  Hue,  I  pp.  83,  87,  lis  ;  ii.  p.  15. 


IMTB.]  THE  TARANATH  LAMA.  zlix 

his  sword  and  killed  him.  This  yiolenoe  caused  a  tumult^  and 
soon  afterwards  it  was  announced  that  the  Guison-tamba  had 
reappeared  among  the  Ehalkas,^  who  threatened  to  avenge  his 
former  death.  The  Emperor  engaged  the  diplomatic  interpo- 
sition of  the  Dalai  Lama»  who  succeeded  in  pacifying  the 
Ehalkas.  But  it  was  arranged  that  the  future  births  of  the 
Guison-tamba  should  be  found  in  Tibet^  so  that  the  Ehalkas 
might  not  again  have  a  sympathizing  fellow-countryman  as 
their  high-priest. 

The  present  seat  of  the  Taranath  Lama>  in  the  Ehalka 
country,  is  an  immense  monastery,  with  more  than  tea 
thousand  monks,  at  Urga  Euren,  on  the  Tula  riyer,  a  de- 
scription of  which  is  given  by  the  Abb6  Hue/  who  visited  the 
place.  There  is  now  a  Russian  Oonsul  permanently  resident  at 
Urga. 

Thus  there  are  three  great  and  influential  incarnations  of 
the  Yellow  sect :  the  Dalai  Lama,  the  Teshu  Lama,  and  the 
Taranath  Lama.  The  latter  is  alluded  to  several  times  by 
Mr.  Bogle,^  and  also  by  Captain  Turner.^  A  fourth  may  pro- 
bably be  added,  in  the  person  of  the  Changay  Lama  or  High 
Priest  of  Peking,  mentioned  by  Bogle.* 

*  This  name  is  deriyed  firom  the  river  itinerary  from  Lhasa  to  Urga,  giTing 
Ehalka.  It  oame  into  use  when  the  the  ronte  taken  by  the  Urga  Khntnkto, 
MoDgol  or  Tnen  dynasty  of  China  was  or  Taranath  Lama,  eoUected  by  M. 
driven  from  the  throne  in  1868,  and  Shishmaroff,  the  Bnssian  Consul  at 
found  a  new  home  on  the  banks  of  the  Urga,  Again,  in  the  '  Geographical 
Khalka  (De  Ouigne's '  Hist,  des  Huns,'  Magazine '  for  March,  1875,  an  account 
ill.  p.  234).  These  princes,  descended  is  quoted  from  the  'Journal  de  St. 
from  Jingis  Khan,  through  Eublai  Petersburg'  of  the  journey  of  another 
Khan,  who  fbunded  the  Yuen  dynasty  new  birth  of  the  Taranath  Lama  (or 
in  1279,  are  now  represented  by  the  Urga  Khutuktu)  fix>m  Lhasa  to  Urga. 
Khans  of  Tuchetu,  Sannoin,  Tsetsen,  Bee,  for  the  journey  of  the  eighth 
and  Sasaaktu,  who  rule  over  the  four  Guison-tamba  from  Lhasa  to  Urga,  the 
Khalka  Khanates  in  outer  Mongolia,  *  Peking  Gazette '  for  1874,  pp.  68,  74, 
near  the  Bussian  frontier,  under  the  and  124  (Shanghai,  1875). 
Emperor  of  China.  *  See  pp.  98, 110,  and  1S4. 

*  The  Abb^  Hue  met  one  of  the  new  *  See  Turner,  p.  273,  where  he  men- 
births  of  the  Guison-tamba  (Taranath)  tions  the  intercourse  between  the  Tara* 
journeying  firom  Urga  to  Lhasa,  in  nath  and  the  Russian  Government; 
1844.   In  the '  Geographical  Magazine '  and  pp.  279  and  814. 

for  April,  1874,  there  is  a  notice  of  an         *  See  p.  130, 

d 


1  MONKS  AND  M0NASTBRIE8.  [Imtb. 

Under  the  incarnate  Lamas  there  is  an  order  of  Buddhist 
eodesiastics  in  Tibet,  China,  and  Mongolia,  called  Khutukhu, 
who  also  have  divine  incarnation ;  and  indeed  Mr.  Brian 
Hodgson  considers  that  the  term  is  a  Tatar  equivalent  for  the 
divine  Lama  of  the  Tibetan  tongue.^  There  also  appears  to  be 
at  least  one  female  incarnation,  in  the  person  of  the  abbess  of  a 
convent  on  the  island  in  Lake  Palti,  whose  acquaintance  was 
made  by  Mr.  Bogle.  The  professed  monks  or  clergy,  subordinate 
to  the  holy  and  sacred  lamas,  are  also  called  lamas,  and  are 
Tery  numerous  in  Tibet.  All  who  have  taken  vows  of  celibacy 
are  called  gedun.  A  professed  monk  is  gylong;  a  neophyte, 
getshul ;  a  nun  is  annf.  They  are  bareheaded,  though  those  of 
high  rank  wear  caps;  their  hair  is  cut  short,  and  they  are 
dressed  in  a  yellow  robe  and  high  leathern  boots,  with  the  mendi- 
cant's food  bowl  and  the  prayer  wheel  in  their  hands.  They  are 
collected  in  vast  monasteries  scattered  over  the  country,  the 
largest  and  most  numerous  being  round  the  city  of  Lhasa.  The 
Galdan'  and  Potala  monasteries  have  already  been  mentioned. 
The  valley  of  Lhasa  also  contains  the  Sara  monastery,  with 
5500  lamas ;  the  Muru  ^  and  Bamoch6  monasteries,  at  the  north 
end  of  Lhasa ;  the  Chumuling,  at  the  north-west  comer ;  the 
Tankyaling,  at  the  west  end ;  the  Eontyaling  monastery,  about 
a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  city;  the  Chochuling,  and  the  Debang 
monastery,  which  is  the  most  important.  These  monasterieB 
contain  many  thousands  of  lamas,  and  similar  establishments 
are  scattered  not  only  in  the  inhabited  valleys,  but  oyer  the 
wildest  parts  of  Great  Tibet. 

The  monasteries  are  called  Oonpas;  the  Lama's  house, 
Itdhrang ;  and  the  temple,  consisting  of  a  room  full  of  images 
and  pictures,  Lha-hhang.  The  Dtrng-ten  is  a  relic  repository, 
(the  Stupa  of  India,)  and  the  votive  piles  of  stones  or  dykes,  from 
a  few  feet  to  half  a  mile  in  length,  covered  with  slabs,  and  stuck 
over  with  banners  inscribed  with  the  Tibetan  prayer,  Om  mani 
padmi  Aum,  are  called  Manu    The  images  of  Buddha  are  always 

'  See  p.  11,  and  compare  Giorgi, '  Alphabetum  Tibetanum.' 
»  Hue,  ii.  p.  219.  »  Ibid. 


IHTB.]  RELIGIOUS  8ERVIGES.    LITEBATURE.  U 

Beated,  with  the  right  hand  resting  on  the  knee,  the  left  on  the 
lap  and  holding  the  alms  dish,  the  body  painted  yellow,  or  gilt> 
and  the  hair  short  and  curly,  and  painted  blue.  They  are  of 
all  sizes,  and  there  are  other  images  of  beings  connected  with 
Buddhistic  ideas. 

The  services  consist  of  recitations  and  chantiog  of  the 
Suiras  or  precepts,  and  rales  of  discipline,  to  the  soond  of  musical 
instruments,  trumpets,  drums,  cymbals,  and  ehank  shells.  The 
tunes  are  impressive  and  solemn,  incense  is  burnt  during  the 
services,  and  there  are  offerings  of  fruits  and  grain  to  Buddha 
and  to  the  Buddhisatwas,  especially  to  Avalokiteswara,  who  is 
incarnate  in  the  Dalai  Lama.  Mystical  sentences  and  titles  of 
Buddha  are  also  recited.  The  bell  is  used  during  the  per- 
formance of  service ;  and  the  prayer  wheels — metal  cylinders, 
containing  printed  prayers  in  rolls  with  the  axes  prolonged  to 
form  handles — are  in  constant  use,  not  only  during  the  service, 
but  on  every  occasion,  being  fixed  in  rows  on  the  walls  of 
temples,  near  villages,  and  in  streams  to  be  turned  by  water. 
The  prayer  wheels  have  been  in  use  for  more  than  a  thousand 
years,  for  they  are  mentioned  by  the  pilgrim  Fa-Hian.^ 

The  Tibetans  possess  a  vast  literature,  including  all  the 
Buddhist  canon  of  Scripture  translated  from  the  Sanscrit,  the 
'  Tripitaka,'  or  three  baskets  of  precepts,  and  other  works,  one 
list  of  which  has  been  given  by  Gsoma  de  Koros.  For  many 
centuries  they  have  known  the  art  of  printing,  by  means  of 
engraved  stereotyped  wooden  blocks,  which  last  for  a  century. 
Thus  not  only  prayers  and  invocations  are  printed  on  sheets  of 
Tibetan  paper  made  firom  the  Daphne  caamabina^  and  on 

^  A  good  deal  that  is  cariotis  re-  course  be  oonBulted  (Triibner,  1874), 

specting  the  religion  of  Tibet  wiU  be  and  Cunningham's  '  Ladak,'  p.  856. 
found  in  '  Tibetan    Buddhism,  illus-         '  Oolonel  Sykes  exhibited  some  large 

trated  by  Literary  Documents  and  Ob-  sheets  of  Nepal  paper  at  the  Great 

jects  of  Beligious  Worship/  by  £mU  Exhibition  of   1851,  made   &om  the 

Bchlagintweit,  LL.D.  (Trubner,  1863.)  inner  bark  of  the  Dajf^ne  Bholua,  or 

See  also  *  Die  Religion  des  Buddha  amnahina,    Mr.  Hodgson  has  given  an 

und    ihre    Entstehung ' ;    and    '  Die  account  of  the  uses  of  this  plant,  which 

lamaische  Hierarchic  und  Kirche,'  G.  is  abundant  in  the  Himalaya,  in  the 

F.  Koppen.  (Berlin,  1857;  1859.)   Mr.  <  Journal    of  the  Asiatic    Society   of 

Brian  Hodgson's  *  Essays'  should  of  Bengal'  for  1832  (i.  p.  8).    He  also 

d  2 


lii 


TRIBES  OF  NEPAL,  AND  SIKKTM. 


[Irtb. 


banners  for  display  on  the  ManUj  bnt  yoluminoos  works,  so 
that  each  monastery  possesses  a  library  of  Buddhistic  lore. 
The  lamas  of  Tibet  also  excel  as  workers  in  metal  and 
modellers  in  clay,  designing  leaves  and  flowers  of  exquisitely 
delicate  workmanship. 

While  the  Gelupka,  or  Yellow  sect,  is  in  the  ascendant  in 
Tibet,  the  adherents  of  the  older,  but  now  heretical  Red  sect^ 
still  have  a  large  monastery  at  Sakisrjong,^  and  have  retained 
supremacy  among  the  Bnddhists  in  Nepal  and  Bhutan,  on  the 
slopes  of  the  Southern  Himalaya.  In  the  well-wooded  and  moist 
gorges  of  the  Gis-nivean  Him&laya,  the  country  was  occupied,  in 
very  ancient  times,  by  people  of  Tibetan  descent,  especially  in 
the  upper  and  middle  zones ;  while  lower  down,  and  bordering 
on  the  plains  of  India,  the  tribes  are  of  more  mixed  race. 

Mr.  Brian  Hodgson,  who  is  unrivalled  in  his  knowledge  of 
the  Cis-nivean  Himalayan  races,  divides  the  inhabitants  of  the 
region  between  the  Kali  and  the  Monass  into  ten  tribes,  the  Cis- 
Himalayan  Bhotias  or  Tibetans  in  the  upper  zone,  the  Sienwar, 
Gurung,  Magar,  Murmi,  Newar,  Eirati,  and  Limbu,  in  Nepal ; 
the  Lepcha  in  Sikkim,  and  Lhopa  or  Dukpa'  (Bhutanese)  in 
Bhutan. 

The  aborigines  of  Nepal  survive  in  two  wild  forest  tribes, 
called  Ghepang  and  Kusunda,  dwelling  in  the  dense  jungle  of 
the  central  region,  of  which  Mr.  Hodgson  has  given  a  very 
interesting  account.^  But  the  people  of  Tibetan  or  Mongolian 
race  made  their  way  over  the  numerous  passes,  and  established 
themselves  in  the  deep  gorges  and  forest-covered  slopes  of 
Nepal,  Sikkim,  and  Bhutan  not  later  than  in  the  fifth  century. 


describes  the  method  of  making  the 
paper,  which  is  remarkable  for  its 
toughness  as  well  as  for  its  smoothness. 
Among  Mr.  Bogle's  papers  there  are 
seyeral  long  letters  from  the  Teshu 
Lama,  written  on  this  paper,  in  the 
oursiTe  Tibetan  character.  (See  also 
Boyle's  *  Fibrous  Plants  of  India,' 
p.  812.) 


1  The  Abbot  of  the  Bed  Oap  mo- 
nastery at  Sakia,  in  Tibet,  has  the  title 
of  Gongso  Bimboch^.  (Turner,  p.  315.) 

'  Lho  is  the  native  name  of  Bhutan. 
Lhopa  is  therefore  a  territorial  desig- 
nation, while  Dukpa  refers  to  their 
belonging  to  the  Bed  Oap  sect. 

3  '*0n  the  Ghepang  and  Kusunda 
Tribes  of  Nepal."  (*  J.  A.  S.  B.,'  1857.) 


IHTB.]  TRIBES  OF  NEPAL.  lui 

for  the  occupation  certamly  took  place  before  the  introduction 
of  Buddhism  into  Tibet  The  Magars  people  the  lower  part  of 
the  hills  in  Western  Nepal,  and  are  men  of  great  bodily  vigour 
and  mental  activity,  but  cruel  and  treacherous.  The  Gurungs 
are  a  pastoral  people,  addicted  to  arms,  frequenting  the  alpine 
regions  in  summer.  The  Newars  inhabit  the  valley  of  Nepal. 
They  are  peaceful  agriculturists  and  traders,  and  are  more 
advanced  in  the  arts  than  the  other  tribes :  their  chie&,  of  a 
feonily  called  Mai,  having  been  the  rulers  of  the  country  before 
the  Gorkha  conquest.  The  Murmis  are  a  low  caste  tribe  in  the 
mountainous  parts  of  Nepal  proper.  The  Eirats  were  a  war- 
like and  enterprising  people,  but  very  rude,  occupying  Eastern 
Nepal ;  and  the  Limbus  form  a  tribe  settled  in  the  country  of 
the  Eirats. 

When  the  successive  Muhammadan  invasions  spread  terror 
over  the  plains  of  India,  and  caused  the  destruction  of  many 
native  dynasties,  numerous  princes  and  their  followers  took 
refuge,  with  attendant  Brahmans,  in  the  Nepal  hills,  and  re- 
ceived the  name  of  Parbatiya,  or  Mountain  Hindus.  The  wild 
native  tribes  were  gradually  converted  to  Hinduism,  and  the 
chief  warrior  families  were  admitted  as  belonging  to  the  Esha- 
triya,  or  Rajput  caste.  From  them,  and  from  the  ofifspring  of 
Brahmans  and  native  women,  sprang  the  numerous  and  now 
predominant  Ehas  tribe  of  Nepal,  and  in  the  course  of  centuries 
the  Ehas  language  became  a  corrupt  form  of  Hindi.  The  Ehas 
"were  spread  over  the  Chaubisya  region,  and,  with  the  Gurungs 
and  Magars,  form  the  military  race  of  Nepal,  now  known,  from 
the  small  State  which  led  them  to  conquest,  as  Gorkhas.^  In 
Mr.  Hodgson's  opinion  they  are  by  far  the  best  soldiers  in  Asia, 
possessing  love  of  enterprise,  and  confirmed  military  habits, 
combined  with  susceptibility  to  discipline. 

The  Newars  were  a  more  peaceful  and  civilized  people, 

>  The  town  of  Oorkha  is  about  SO  of  the  royal  family,  Gorkhanath,  who 
mUes  V7.N.W.  of  Eathmandu.  The  alao  gave  his  name  to  our  district  of 
name  is  derived  from  that  of  the  deity      Gorakpiir. 


liv  THE  TRADE  OF  NEPAL.    RALPH  FITCH.  [Intb. 

among  whom  Buddhism  of  the  Red  sect  continued  to  prevail, 
who  inhabit  the  valley  of  Nepal,  which  is  about  16  miles  long 
and  broad,  and  4200  to  4700  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Mai 
dynasty  of  Newar  encouraged  the  arts,  agriculture,  and  com* 
merce,  and  in  their  time  a  flourishing  trade  was  carried  on 
between  Tibet  and  the  plains  of  India,  through  the  passes  of 
Nepal.  The  sixth  king  of  the  Mai  dynasty,  at  his  death,  di- 
vided his  dominions  into  three  principalities  with  capitals  within 
the  valley,  Eathmandu,  Lalita  Patau,  and  Bhatgaon.  In  these 
towns  there  were  mints  for  coining  money,  and  they  seem  to 
have  formed  centres  of  trading  enterprise  in  the  seventeenth 
and  first  half  of  the  eighteenth  century.  The  Kashmiri  mer- 
chants carried  their  goods  by  Ladak  to  Kuti,  at  the  head  of  the 
pass,  to  procure  wool ;  and  their  manufactures  went  thence  partly 
for  use  in  Tibet,  partly  to  China  by  Sining,  and  partly  to  Patna 
by  the  valley  of  Nepal.  Tibet  merchants  brought  woollen 
cloths,  ponies,  shawl  goats,  yaks,  sheep,  musk,  salt,  borax,  gold, 
silver,  and  paper  to  Eathmandu,  and  the  lamap  sent  much 
bullion  to  the  Nepal  mints.  From  India  came  cotton  cloth, 
cutlery,  glassware,  coral,  pearls,  spices,  camphor,  betel,  and 
hardware,  which  were  passed  on,  from  Nepal,  over  the  passes  to 
Tibet.^ 

As  long  ago  as  in  1583,  Ralph  Fitch,  a  travellei^  who  visited 
India  at  that  time,  had  evidently  heard  of  the  trade  which  then 
flourished  between  Tibet  and  Bengal.'  His  quaint  account  of 
this  trade  leaves  no  doubt  as  to  the  region  and  the  people  he 
has  in  his  mind.  The  trade  in  musk,  eambals  (evidently  the 
blankets  still  imported),  silk,  and  agates ;  the  use  of  the  cow- 
tails  ;  the  names  of  Bootcmter  and  Booteah  ;  the  mention  of  lofty 
mountains;  the  merchants  coming  from  China,  Tatary,  and 
Persia,  all  prove  that  Ralph  Fitch  had  heard  an  account,  and 
a  correct  account,  of  the  intercourse  which  then  prevailed 
between  India  and  Tibet,  through  the  passes  of  Bhutan  and 
Nepal. 

1  Buchanan  Hamilton,  p.  212.  ^  '  Haklnyt's  VoyageB,'  ii.  p.  257. 


IiTTB.]  SIKKIM  AND  BHUTAN  TBIBEa  U 

The  Lepchas  of  Sikkim  are  ruled  by  a  chief  of  their  own, 
have  retained  the  Buddhist  religion,  and  have  generally  been 
eubject  to  Tibet.  But  the  fiercer  mountaineers  of  Bhutan  have 
long  maintained  virtual  independence.  Savage  and  illiterate, 
they  have  preserved  but  vague  traditions  of  their  history,  and 
the  account  given  by  Mr.  Bogle  is  probably  as  historical  as  any 
other.^  Mr.  Eden  received  a  somewhat  different  account ;  ac- 
cording to  which  the  present  Bhutanese  only  overran  the  country 
about  three  centuries  ago,  when  they  found  it  occupied  by  a 
people  from  Euch  Bahar,  whom  they  conquered.  The  invaders 
were  Tibetan  soldiers,  over  whom  a  lama  of  the  Bed  sect,  named 
Dnpgain  Sheptun,  acquired  paramount  influence,  as  Lama  Bim- 
boch6,  or  Dharma  Rajah.  On  his  death,  the  spirit  of  Sheptun 
became  incarnate  in  a  little  child  at  Lhasa,  who  was  conveyed 
to  Bhutan.  When  this  child  grew  up,  he  confined  himself  to 
spiritual  concerns,  and  appointed  a  regent,  called  the  Deb 
Rajah,  to  perform  all  administrative  functions.  But  the  real 
power  has  long  been  in  the  hands  of  the  military  governors  or 
Penlos  of  East  and  West  Bhutan,  whose  capitals  are  respectively 
at  Tongso  and  Paro. 

The  Muhammadan  (conquests  in  Hindustan  tended  to  check 
the  formerly  unfettered  intercourse  between  Tibet  and  the  valley 
of  the  Ganges,  through  the  passes  of  the  Southern  Himalayas, 
as  Mr.  Bogle  was  told  by  the  Teshu  Lama;  but  this  obstacle 
was  by  no  means  permanent,  and  the  commercial  enterprise  of 
the  Newars  and  Kashmiris  brought  the  land  of  the  peace-loving 
Lamas  into  friendly  intercourse  with  peoples  whose  countries 
extend  from  the  frontiers  of  Siberia  to  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of 
Bengal. 

Yet  an  interval  of  three  centuries  elapsed,  from  the  time  of 
Father  Odoric  of  Fordenone,  before  another  European  set  his 
foot  on  the  soil  of  Great  Tibet. 

The  present  Manchu  dynasty  (Ta-Tsing)  of  China,  founded 
by  Shun-che  in  1651,  has  produced  two  emperors  of  great 

>  PagSB  33  and  191. 


Ivi  JESUITS  IN  TIBET.    ANBBABA.  [Ihtb. 

ability,  who  enjoyed  tmuBually  long  lives.  Eang-hi  reigned 
from  1662  to  1723y  and  had  the  wisdom  to  admit  Catholic 
priests  into  China,  and  to  utilize  their  scientific  knowledge. 
Kien-lung,  who  ruled  over  the  Chinese  empire  from  1736  to 
1796,  was  also  a  prince  of  great  capacity ;  and  the  ascendency 
of  China  over  Tibet  was  fully  established  during  these  reigns. 
Tet  it  was  from  the  side  not  of  China,  but  of  India  that 
Europeans  first  penetrated  into  Tibet,  in  the  guise  of  mission- 
aries. The  Jesuit,  Antonio  Andrada,  in  1624,  set  out  from 
Agra  to  scale  the  appalling  mountains,  the  snowy  pinnacles  of 
which  were  yisible  from  the  plains  of  India.  He  climbed  the 
terrific  passes  to  the  source  of  the  Ganges,  and  eventually,  after 
fearfdl  sufferings,  reached  the  shores  of  the  sacred  lake  of 
Mansarowar,  the  source  of  the  Sutlej.  Thence  the  undaunted 
missionary  found  his  way  over  the  lofty  passes  to  Budok,  and 
eventually,  by  way  of  Tangut,  to  China.  He  was  the  first 
European  to  enter  Tibet  after  Friar  Odoric  of  Pordenone,  in 
1325,  just  three  centuries  earlier.^ 

The  next  journey,  that  of  Fathers  Grueber  and  Dorville,  was 
still  more  remarkable,  for  these  enterprising  missionaries  suc- 
ceeded in  passing  from  China,  through  Lhasa,  into  India.  John 
Grueber  was  bom  at  Lintz,  in  Austria,  in  1620,  and  becoming 
a  Jesuit,  was  sent  from  Borne  to  Macao  in  1657,  proceeding 
thence  to  Peking.  He  was  ordered  to  return  to  Europe,  to 
receive  instructions  from  the  general  of  the  order  at  Home,  but 
all  the  ports  were  closed  by  a  Dutch  fleet.  He  therefore 
resolved  to  attempt  the  journey  by  land.  Setting  out,  with 
Father  Dorville  as  a  companion,  in  June,  1661,  he  travelled  by 
way  of  Sining,  crossed  the  Tangut  desert,  and  reached  Lhasa  in 
six  months  from  Peking.  There  he  remained  two  months,  and 
in  his  letters  he  describes  the  worship  of  the  Dalai  Lama»  and 

^  The  Jesuit  Antonio  Andrada  was  appeared  at  Lisbon  in  1626.     It  was 

born  in  1580,  and  went  to  India  as  translated  into  French  in  1628,  and  a 

a   missionary.     After  his   memorable  new  edition  appeared  at  Paris  in  1796, 

journey  to  China  he  returned  to  Goa,  in  the  '  Becueil  de  Voyages  du  Thibet,* 

and  died  there  in  1634.    His  narrative  MM.  P^ron  et  Billecocq. 


Intb.] 


GBUEBEB  AND  DOBVILLE. 


iTti 


the  religioQS  system  of  the  Buddhists.  Thence  he  made  his  way 
along  a  route,  by  tremendous  precipices,  into  Nepal ;  crossing  the 
Enti  pass,  which  is  seyeral  times  mentioned  by  Mr.  Bogle,  the 
intrepid  travellers  reached  Kathmandu,  and  eventually  arrived 
at  Agra,  214  days  after  they  had  left  Peking.  Dorville  died, 
but  Grueber  continued  his  journey  on  foot  through  India  and 
Persia,  and  embarked  at  Smyrna  for  Bome.  Father  Grueber 
died,  in  1665,  on  his  way  back  to  China;  and  the  only  record 
of  his  wonderful  journey  is  contained  in  a  few  meagre  letters 
which  have  been  preserved  in  a  small  volume.^  An  abstract  of 
those  addressed  to  Eircher  '  was  originally  published  by  him  in 
the  *  China  Illustrata,'  and  all  were  reproduced  in  the  collection 
of  Thevenot.^    Indeed,  it  would  appear  that  Grueber  was  not 


'  '  Koiizie  vane  dell'  Imperio  della 
China'  (Florenoe,  1687),  edited  by 
Jaoopo  Oarlieri,  12mo.  This  yoliime 
oontains  an  acoonnt  of  China  gathered 
from  a  discotme  held  with  Father 
Qraeber  (80  pages),  as  well  as  letters 
in  Latin,  addressed  by  Gmeber  to 
Tarioos  fathers,  giving  aoconnts  of 
China  and  Tibet  (42  pages).  One  of 
the  letters  is  apparently  a  sort  of  ab- 
stract or  compilation,  headed  ''  ex  Uteris 
Gmeberi  Eirchero  insoripto,"  and  is 
written  in  the  third  person.  The  other 
three  are  written  in  the  first  person, 
and  seem  not  to  have  been  altered  from 
the  mannsoripts  of  Gmeber. 

*  Gmeber's  '  Iter  e  ChinA  in  Mogor ' 
fonns  the  second  chapter  of  the  second 
part  of  the  'China  lUnstrata'  of  P. 
Kircher. 

Athanasios  Kircher  was  bom  at 
Geysen,  a  small  town  near  Fulda,  in 
G^many,  in  1602.  He  was  a  Jesuit, 
and  was  one  of  the  most  laborious  and 
learned  men  that  the  Company  has  pro- 
duced. He  studied  aU  branches  of 
kazning  with  ardour,  but  his  chief 
object  was  the  acquisition  of  a  com- 
plete knowledge  of  the  Oriental  lan- 
goagei^  of  which  he  was  professor  at 
Wurtxburg.     On  the  breaking  out  of 


the  Thirty  Years'  war  he  retired  to 
Avignon,  and  went  thence  to  Rome, 
where  he  died  in  1680.  His  erudition 
was  something  stupendous,  but  he  was 
devoid  of  the  critical  faculty,  and  thus 
much  of  his  indefatigable  industry  and 
marvellous  power  of  acquiring  know- 
ledge were  wasted.  His  work  relating 
to  Tibet  is  one  out  of  about  forty  that 
he  produced  on  various  subjects.  The 
title  is  '  China  monumentis  quk  sacris, 
qvk  profanis,  neonon  variis  naturo  et 
artis  spectaculis  illustrata'  (Amster- 
dam, folio,  1667).  It  was  translated 
into  French  by  d'Alqui^  in  1670 ;  and 
partly  into  English  by  John  Ogilby  in 
1669,  but  merely  as  an  appendix  to  a 
folio  volume  containing  a  translation  of 
an  account  of  a  Dutch  Embassy  to 
China.  The  *  China  Illustrata '  gives 
an  account  of  the  arrival  of  the  mis- 
sionaries in  China :  it  is  the  first  work 
in  which  the  characters  of  the  Devana- 
gari  alphabet  were  ever  engraved,  and 
it  contains  the  account  of  Grueber's 
visit  to  Lhasa. 

s  Melchisedek  Thevenot,  uncle  of 
Jean  Thevenot,  the  famous  traveller, 
was  bom  in  1620,  and  died  in  1690. 
He  published  Grueber*s  letters  in  '  Re- 
lations de  divers  Voyages  curieux  qui 


iviii 


DESIDEBI  AND  FBETBR 


[Intb. 


very  communicatiye ;  had  not  the  gift  of  narration;  but  the 
essential  portion  of  what  has  been  preserved  of  his  account  of 
the  journey  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix  at  the  end  of  this 
Tolume.  The  only  genuine  sketch  of  the  palace  of  Potala  is, 
I  belieye,  that  given  in  the  *  China  Illustrata '  of  Kircher,  from 
Father  Grueber. 

Grueber  was  followed  by  two  other  Jesuits,  named  Desideri 
and  Freyre.  Hippolito  Desideri  was  bom  at  Pistoia  in  1684, 
became  a  Jesuit,  and  was  sent  to  Gt)a  in  1712.  In  1714  he 
went  by  way  of  Surat  to  Delhi,  where  he  was  joined  by  Father 
Manoel  Freyre  as  a  companion.  Crossing  the  Pir  Fanjal 
Bange  the  two  Jesuits  came  to  Kashmir  on  the  10th  of  May,  and 
travelled  thence  by  Leh  and  over  the  Mariam-la  pass  to  Lhasa^ 
the  journey  occupying  them  from  August,  1715,  to  March,  1716. 
Desideri  remained  at  Lhasa  until  1729,  when  he  was  recalled 
by  the  Pope,  and  not  allowed  to  return,  owing  to  complaints 
against  him  from  the  Capuchin  friars,  who  had  found  their 
way  into  Tibet.  We  have  one  letter  of  Desideri,  which 
describes  his  journey  through  Ladak  and  as  far  as  the  Mariam- 
la  pass,  but  there  the  narrative  breaks  off  abruptly.  A  transla- 
tion of  this  letter,  from  the  *  Lettres  £difiantes/  ^  will  be  found 


n'ont  point  €be  ptibU^B*  (Paris,  1669- 
72,  4  parties  en  2  torn,  folio). 

A  good  abstract  of  Graeber's  letters, 
taken  from  Kircher  and  Thevenot,  is 
given  in  'Astley's  Collection  of  Voyages 
and  Travels,'  vol.  iv.  (London,  1745-47), 
which  is  copied  into  Pinkerton's  *  Col- 
lection/ vol.  vii.  (London,  1808-14).  A 
briefer  abstract  is  given  in  Hugh 
Mnrray's  *  Historical  Account  of  Travels 
in  Asia,'  i.  p.  425  (London,  1820). 

1  The  '  Lettres  tidifiantes  '  were 
brought  out  by  Legobien  and  Du  Halde. 

Charles  Legobien  was  a  Jesuit,  who 
was  born  at  St.  Malo  in  1653,  and  died 
in  1708.  He  published  'Lcttre  sur 
les  Progres  de  la  Religion  h.  la  Chine ' 
(Paris,  1697).  After  the  Emperor 
Kang-hi  ordered  the  persocntion  of 
the  Christians  to  cease,  by  an  edict^ 


dated  Maxch  22,  1692,  Legobien  pub- 
lished'Histoire  del'Edit  de  rfimpereur 
de  la  Chine  en  Favour  de  la  Religion 
Chretienne'  (Paris,  1698).  In  1702 
he  published, '  Lettres  de  quelques  Mia- 
sionaires  de  la  Compag^ie  de  Jesus 
Writes  de  la  Chine  et  des  Indes  On- 
entales'  (1  vol.  12mo).  The  second 
issue  was  called  *  Lettres  edifiantes  et 
curieuses,'  and  made  two  volumes,  and 
Legobien  brought  out  six  more,  making 
nine  in  aU. 

Jean  Baptiste  Du  Halde,  also  a 
Jesuit,  was  bom  at  Paris  in  1674,  and 
succeeded  Legobien  in  the  work  of  col- 
lecting and  arranging  the  letters  written 
from  various  countries  by  the  fathers  of 
the  Company.  His  '  Lettres  ^ifiantm 
et  curieuses  Writes  des  Missions  £tran- 
geres'  continue  the  Legobien  aeries  from 


IHTB,]  MANUSCBIPTS  OF  DESIDERI.  lix 

in  the  Appendix  to  this  volume.  Another  letter  from  Desideri 
is  inserted  in  the '  Bibliotheca  Pistoiensis '  (p.  185),  by  Zaccaria. 
But  there  is  much  valuable  material  from  the  pen  of  Desideri 
still  in  manuscript  which  will  soon  be  given  to  the  world,  and 
will  be  most  useful  to  students  of  Tibetan  history  and  geogra- 
phy. The  manuscript  containing  the  narrative  of  his  journey 
to  and  residence  in  Tibet  has  recently  been  examined  by  Signer 
Carlo  Puini.  That  learned  scholar  reports  that  it  is  in  the 
library  of  a  private  gentleman  at  Kstoia,  and  consists  of  a  large 
folio  volume,  dated  1727,  of  about  500  pages  closely  but  very 
clearly  and  legibly  written.  It  contains  a  great  abundance  of 
notices  respecting  the  geography  of  Tibet,  and  the  manners  and 
customs,  and  religion  of  the  Tibetans.  There  are  two  other 
documents  of  Desideri  in  the  library  of  the  Congregation  of  the 
Propaganda  at  Borne.  The  first  is  another  narrative,  dated 
February  17,  1717,  soon  after  his  arrival  at  Lhasa,  and  ad- 
dressed to  the  Pope,  and  the  second  is  a  letter  written  in 
autograph  by  Desideri  to  the  Pope.* 

Father  Desideri  also  translated  the  *  Eangiar '  of  the  gieat 
reforming  Lama,  Tsong-khapa,  into  Latin. 

The  Capuchin  friars  had  already  found  their  way  to  Lhasa 
in  the  time  of  Desideri ;  and  we  have  several  letters  from  their 
leader.  This  was  Francisco  Ora2do  della  Penna,  or  Pinnabil- 
lensis.  He  was  bom  at  Macerata,  in  Italy,  in  1780,  became  a 
Capuchin,  and  was  sent  to  Tibet  with  twelve  of  his  brethren  as 
missionaries.  They  reached  Lhasa  by  way  of  Nepal  in  1719, 
and  established  a  mission  which  flourished  for  nearly  a  quarter 

ToL'ix.  to  ToL  xxvi     The  letter  of     at  Borne.    He  will  then  write  an  ex- 
ri  is  in  vol.  zv.    In  1781  a  new      hansiiYe  paper  on  Father  Desideri  ami 


edition  appeared  in  twenty-six  ycdmnes  his  travels,  and  eventoally  he  hopes  to 

(bound  in  twelve),  and  edited  by  M.  de  pnblifh  the  mannscript  itself,  with  the 

QneiboBuf.     Da  Halde  died  in  174S.  necessary  elucidations.    I  am  indebted 

Mention  wiU  be  made  of  his  great  work  to  Colonel  Ynle  for  this  important  news 

on  China  in  another  note,  at  p.  Ixii.  respecting  the  Desideri  manuscripts,  and 

>  Hignor  Carlo  Pnini  examined  the  their  contemplated  publication,  which 

manuscript  at  Pistoia  on  November  19,  ought  to  be  promptly  followed  by  an 

1875,  and  he  will  be  furnished  with  English  edition, 
copies  both  of  it  and  of  the  documents 


Ix 


HOBAGE  BELLA  PENNA. 


[!» 


of  a  century.  Horace  della  Penna  studied  Tibetan  at  Lhasa  for 
twenty-two  years.  During  that  time  nine  of  the  Capuchin 
friars  died,  and  Horace  returned  to  Rome  in  1735,  representing 
that  the  three  suryivors  were  worn  out  with  age  and  hard  work, 
and  expressing  a  wish  for  reinforcements,  and  for  the  establish- 
ment of  annual  communication  between  Rome  and  Lhasa.  The 
Pope  nominated  nine  more  Capuchins,  who  set  out  from  Home, 
with  Horace -della  Penna,  in  1738,  bearing  letters  from  his 
Holiness  to  the  Dalai  Lama.  In  1741  Horace  wrote  that  the 
mission  had  arrived  at  Lhasa  during  the  previous  year.  The 
afifairs  of  the  mission  afterwards  took  him  to  Nepal,  and  he  died 
at  Patau,  in  the  Nepal  valley,  on  the  20th  of  July,  1747.  A 
monument  was  erected  over  his  grave,  with  an  inscription,  which 
is  given  by  Oiorgi.  The  letters  of  this  enterprising  missionary 
were  carefully  edited  and  published  by  E^laproth,  in  the 
^  Journal  Asiatique,'^  and  a  translation  of  them  will  be  found  in 
the  Appendix  to  this  volume.  Much  information  collected  by 
Della  Penna  is  embodied  in  the  ponderous  'Alphabetnm 
Tibetanum  '  of  Giorgi.^  The  way  in  which  Horace  della  Penna 
passed  to  and  fro  between  Tibet  and  India  proves  that  the 
intercourse  was  free  and  unrestrained  between  the  two  countries, 
and  that  the  trafiBc  was  protected  by  the  enlightened  policy  of 
the  Lamas  of  Tibet  and  the  Newar  Kings  of  Nepal. 


*  '  Journal  ABiatiqne,'  aeoond  series, 
xiv.  p.  177. 

'  Antonio  Augustin  Giorg;i  was  bom 
at  Santa  Maora,  near  Rimini,  in  1711. 
He  became  an  Aognstin  friar,  and  was 
a  great  linguist,  and  altogether  a  most 
erudite  person.  His  work,  'Alpha- 
betum  Tibetanum'  (Borne,  1762,  1  toI. 
4to),  was  compiled  from  materials  sent 
from  Tibet  by  the  Oapuchin  friars, 
especially  Horace  della  Penna  (or 
Pinnabillensis?)  and  Oassien  de  Maoe- 
rata.  He  obtained  the  Tibetan  cha- 
racters from  Delia  Penna,  which  were 
engraved  in  1738  by  Anton  Fontarita. 
The  huge  work  contains  a  chronology 


of  Tibetan  kings  and  lamas,  itineraries, 
and  other  information,  which  is  over- 
laid by  a  confusing  and  superfluous  mass 
of  erudition  and  puerile  etymologies. 
Giorgi  died  on  the  4th  of  May,  1797. 

For  an  account  of  the  Oapuchin  Mis- 
sion to  Lhasa,  see  also  *  Alia  sagra  oon- 
gregazione  de  propaganda  fide  deputata 
sopra  la  missione  del  Gran  Thibet, 
rappresentanza  de  Padri  Oappuocini 
Missionaj,  dello  stato  presente  della 
medesima,  e  de'  provvedimenti  per  man- 
teneola  ed  aocresoerla,'  1788,  pp.  55,  in 
the  India  Office  library,  bound  up  with 
other  tracts. 


r 


e:^ 


'^onc^c 


%4nf 


\- 


^Sa\ 


tP 


COEa 

Stades 


I 

J 


v^ 


1 


Intb.]  the  lama  survey.  Ixi 

Just  before  the  Capuchin  missioiiarieB  reached  Lhaaa  the 
&moii8  native  survey  of  Tibet  had  been  oompletedy  which  still 
forms  the  basis  of  our  geographical  knowledge  of  that  country. 
The  Emperor  Eaug-hi,  having  been  satisfied  of  the  accuracy  of 
the  European  method  of  surveying,  from  the  examination  of  a 
:^n  map  which  the  Jesuit  missionaries  had  executed  of  the  country 
round  Peking,  resolved  to  have  a  survey  made  of  the  whole 
f\     :  empire  on  the  same  principles.  This  great  work  was  commenced 
[^n  Jiily>  1708,  and  the  completed  maps  were  presented  to  the 
Imperor  in  1718.    The  records  preserved  in  each  city  were 
:amined9  topographical  information  was  diligently  collected, 
\A  the  Jesuit  Fathers  checked  their  triangulation  by  meridian 
Ltitades  of  the  sun  and  pole  star,  and  by  a  system  of  re- 
leasurements.    The  result  was  a  more  accurate  map  of  China 
existed,  at  that  time,  of  any  country  in  Europe. 
As  regards  Tibet,  an  embassy  had  been  sent  to  Lhasa  by  the 
^  j  tESmperor  Eang-hi,  to  reconcile  the  Yellow  and  Bed  Cap  factions, 
Vkastnd  during  the  stay  of  the  envoys,  of  two  years,  a  map  of  Tibet 
ras  prepared,  and  placed  in  the  hands  of  Father  Begis^  one  of 
the  leading  surveyors  of  China,  on  their  return.^    But  it  was 
mnd  that  their  positions  had  not  been  fixed  by  astronomical 
observations,  and  that  the  distances  had  not  been  systema- 
tically measured.    Begis  declined  to  use  this  map  as  material 
for  a  part  of  the  general  map  of  the  empire.    £ang-hi,  there- 
fore, resolved  to  have  another  map  constructed,  and  accord- 
igly  two  lamas  were  carefully  trained  as  surveyors  by  the 
resoit  Fathers  at  Peking,  and  sent  to  Tibet  with  orders  to  in- 
f  Vclnde  the  country  from   Sining  to  Lhasa,  and  thence  to  the 
purees  of  the  Ganges,  in  their  survey.    The  result  was  a  map  of 
*ibet,  which  was  submitted  to  the  Fathers,  in  1717,  and  though 
[not  without  &ult8,  it  was  found  to  be  a  great  improvement  on 
|the  former  attempt     From  it  the  Jesuits  prepared  the  well- 
iknown  maps  which  were  forwarded  to  Du  Halde,  and  from  which 

r  

D'AjQville  constructed  his  atlas.    The  Lama  Survey  of  Tibet 

>  The  aeoount  of  Tibet,  by  Begis,  ia  given  in  Do  Halde,  ii.  pp.  384-3S8. 


Ixii  SAMUEL  VAN  DE  PUTTE.  [Intb. 

still  ooBtinaes  to  be  the  basis  of  our  geographical  knowledge  of 
that  country/  although  it  is  rapidly  being  superseded  by  the 
efforts  of  Colonel  Montgomerie  and  his  native  explorers. 

During  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Tung-ching,  son  and  suc- 
cessor of  Kang-hiy  who  caused  the  surveys  to  be  executed,  or 
between  1723  and  1736,  the  most  remarkable  journeys  ever 
made  by  a  European  in  Tibet  were  achieved  by  a  Dutchman, 
who  went  from  India,  by  Lhasa,  to  Peking,  and  returned  by 
the  same  route. 

This  traveller  was  Samuel  Van  de  Putte.  His  family  is 
well  known  in  Zeeland,  and  the  illustrious  statesman  Frausen 
Van  de  Putte,  recently  Minister  of  the  Colonies  in  Holland,  is 
descended  from  the  traveller's  father  in  direct  line.  Carel  Van 
de  Putte,  the  traveller's  father,  was  Vice-Admiral  of  Zeeland, 
and,  by  his  wife  Johanna  Constantia  Biscop,  he  had  a  son 
Samuel,  bom  at  Flushing  in  1690.  The  Admiral  died  in  1725, 
and  Samuel  studied  jurisprudence  at  Ley  den,  taking  his  Doctor's 
degree  in  1714.  In  1715  he  was  chosen  Alderman  of  Flushing. 
In  1718  he  left  the  Netherlands,  in  company  with  another  gen- 
tleman of  good  family,  named  Egmond  Van  der  Nyenburg,  of 
Alkmaar.  They  started  with  the  intention  of  being  absent  for 
about  three  years,  but  a  thirst  for  knowledge  and  adventure  led 
them  to  exceed  this  period  by  many  years.  Van  de  Putte 
travelled  with  a  caravan  from  Aleppo  to  Isfahan,  and  went 
thence  to  India,  arriving  at  the  port  of  Cochin  in  August,  1724. 
After  travelling  for  several  years  through  the  territories  of  the  ' 

>  The  Lama  Survey  came   to  the  lation  was  published  in  1742  in  London, 

knowledge  of  the  Europeans  through  in  2  vols,  folio ;  and  a  German  trans- 

the  great  work  of  Du  Halde :  '  Descrip-  lation  in  1747.    But  the  English  trans- 

tion  g^ographique,  historique,  chrono-  lator  has  made  several  abridgments, 

logique,    politique,    et    physique    de  Du  Halde's  work  is  based  on  infonna- 

TEmpire  de  la  Chine  et  de  la  Tartarie  tion   contained   in  letters  and  othcc 

Chinoise '  (Paris,  1735,  4  vols,  folio),  communications  from  numerous  Jesuit 

It  was  accompanied  by  an  atlas  of  forty-  missionaries  in  China.    The  maps,  In- 

two  maps  by  D*AnviUe.     A  second  eluding  that  of  Tibet,  were  oonstrooted 

edition  appeared  at  the  Hague  in  the  by  IKAnyille  from  materials  supplied 

foUowing  year,   in  quarto,  with    im-  by  Regis  and  the  other  surveyors  em- 

portant  additions.    An  English  trans-  ployed  by  the  Emperor  of  China. 


IHTR.]  a^MUEL  VAN  DE  PUTTK  Ixul 

Great  Mogbnl^  in  the  dress  of  a  natiye,  he  eventually  made  his 
way  to  Lhasa ;  and  Father  GauviP  assures  us  that  he  acquired 
the  Tibetan  language^  and  became  intimate  with  some  of  the 
Lamas.  After  a  long  residence  at  Lhasa,  he  set  out,  in  the 
dress  of  a  Chinese  mandarin,  accompanying  a  deputation  of 
Lamas  to  Peking.  He  went  by  the  route  afterwards  traversed 
by  Hue,  and  entered  China  by  the  Great  WalL  Father  Horace 
della  Penna,  in  one  of  his  letters,'  quotes  a  passage  from  the 
journal  of  Van  de  Putte,  in  which  he  describes  the  passage  of 
the  river  Bicin  (Bi-tsion),  the  upper  course  of  the  Yang-tsze. 
The  river  was  traversed  in  boats  made  of  hides.  Embarking  in 
the  morning,  the  travellers  passed  the  night  on  a  little  island 
in  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  only  reached  the  opposite 
shore  at  about  noon  on  the  following  day. 

Van  de  Putte  is  the  only  European  who  has  ever  completed 
the  journey  from  India,  through  Lhasa,  to  China.  He  returned 
to  India,  also  passing  through  Lhasa,  and  was  an  eye-witness  of 
the  sack  of  Delhi  by  Nadir  Shah  in  1737.  In  1743  he  finally 
left  India,  sailing  from  Bengal  to  Batavia,  and  in  September  of 
the  same  year  he  was  at  Malacca,  and  made  a  trip  to  the 
famous  Mount  Ophir.  He  went  back  to  Batavia,  intending  to 
return  home,  and  took  up  his  residence  in  the  house  of  Mr. 
P.  W.  Lammens,  where  he  died  on  the  27th  of  September, 
1745,  aged  fifty-five. 

The  premature  death  of  this  illustrious  traveller  is  the  more 
to  be  lamented  because  his  vast  knowledge  died  with  him  ;  for 
he  desired,  in  his  will,  that  all  his  papers  should  be  burnt, 
fearing  that,  owing  to  the  imperfect  state  in  which  they  were 
left,  some  fraudulent  use  might  be  made  of  them,  and  erro- 
neous accounts  be  published  under  the  sanction  of  his  name. 
The  dangers  to  which  he  had  been  exposed  obliged  him  to 
write  the  greater  part  of  the  notes  on  small  strips  of  paper,  and 

*  Iq    a    letter  from  Peking,  dated  ^  Published  in  the  *  Journal  Asia- 

August    13,    1752,  publijBhed   in   the      tique,'  xiv.  p.  191,  and  edited,  with 
*  Journal  Asiatique,'  x.  p.  223.  notes,  by  Elaproth. 


Ixir  SAUUEL  VAN  DE  PUTTE.  (Imtb. 

Id  a  character  which  it  was  impoBsible  for  anyone  but  himself  to 
decipher.  Mr.  LammenSy  on  his  return  to  Hollandy  presented 
some  of  the  collections  made  by  Van  de  Putte  to  the  Zeeland 
Society  of  Science  at  Middelburg,  and  they  are  still  preserred 
in  its  museum,  with  a  few  specimens  of  his  notes.  There  is  also 
a  map  of  part  of  Tibet  by  Van  de  Putte  in  the  museum  at 
ICiddelburg.  On  this  map,  which  includes  the  region  between 
the  Ganges  and  the  Tsanpu  (Brahmaputra)  in  Tibet,  Van  de 
Putte  uses  the  Italian  language,  but  his  Dutch  occasionally 
comes  out,  as,  for  example,  in  spelling  Pumeah,  he  uses  oe,  the 
Dutch  equivalent  for  the  English  oo  and  Italian  u.  It  appears 
from  the  notes  upon  it  that  the  map  was  drawn  at  Lhasa, 
after  receiving  topographical  information  from  the  son  of  the 
Ehalon,  or  minister  of  the  ruler  of  Bramascjon  (Sikkim^), 
with  the  intention  of  asking  him  some  further  questions,  but 
that  the  ESialon's  son  left  Lhasa  before  Van  de  Putte  found  an 
opportunity  of  resuming  his  inquiries.  On  this  map  we  have 
the  Tibetan  course  of  the  Aran  from  Tinkri  (Tingry)  Maidan 
more  correctly  laid  down  than  on  any  other,  until  the  journey 
of  Cblonel  Montgomerie's  explorer  No.  9  in  1871.  The  places 
between  Pary  (Pari-jong)  and  Shigatze  (Gigatz6)  are  also  given, 
and  Bhutan  is  called  "Braukpa'*  C'Dukpa,"  the  Red  Cap  sect). 
Professor  Yeth,  of  Leyden,  has  also  kindly  examined  the  manu* 
script  notes  of  Van  de  Patte,  which  have  been  sent  to  him  by 
the  Secretary  of  the  Zeeland  Scientific  Society.  They  are  on 
little  scraps  of  paper,  and  contain  descriptions  of  mineral,  vege- 
table, and  animal  products  of  which  the  traveller  had  collected 
specimens,  which  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Middelburg. 
There  are  also  a  few  geographical  notes,  with  slight  sketches  of 
the  form  of  several  lakes.  On  the  notes  there  are  frequent 
references  to  the  journal,  which  has  most  unfortunately  been 
destroyed.  The  great  Dutch  traveller  is  said  to  have  been 
considered  almost  as  a  saint  by  his  acquaintances  in  Tibet,  and 

'  Horaoe  della  Penna  also  lues  thifi  name  for  Sikkim.     Bogle  calls  it  Demo- 
Jong. 


I 

J 


c^^^ 


<*c^ 


t^irt  f. 


/'^ 


0^<M/t 


^ 


^ 


U/?'^iXm 


^  jt^^. 


VAM    Dl 


ImUi] 


REVOLUTION  AT  LHASA. 


Ixv 


in  the  East  generally,  on  account  of  the  purity  of  his  life ;  and 
he  is  praised  for  his  great  proficiency  in  several  Oriental 
languages.^ 

The  period  of  the  residence  of  Capuchin  friars  in  Lhasa, 
when  the  Lama  Survey  of  Tibet  was  executed,  and  Van  de  Putte 
made  his  remarkable  journey,  was  by  no  means  one  of  internal 
tranquillity  in  the  capital  of  the  Dalai  Lama.  The  sixth  incar- 
nate Buddhisatwa  was  Lobsang  Ealsang,  already  mentioned,  who 
reigned  from  1706  to  1758,  when  he  was  succeeded  by  Lobsang 
Champal.  In  1749,  the  Chinese  Ambas,  or  political  agents,  put 
the  Tibetan  Gyalpo,  or  Regent,  to  death,  and  the  people  fiew  to 
arms.  The  tumult  led  to  a  massacre  of  the  Chinese,  and  the 
leader  of  the  expedition  sent  by  the  Emperor  to  restore  order 
was  prudently  instructed  to  make  concessions,  so  that  the  ascen- 
dency of  China  was  maintained  while  the  wrath  of  the  Lamas 
and  the  people  was  appeased  The  succeeding  Gyalpos,  or  Gesub 
Bimboch^s,  were  completely  under  the  influence  of  the  Chinese, 


>  I  am  indebted  to  the  oourteBy  of 
Piofeesor  Veth,  the  learned  President 
of  the  Dutch  Geographical  Society,  for 
the  above  particulars  of  the  life  of 
Samuel  Van  de  Putte,  one  of  the  most 
Buocessfal  travellers  who  ever  crossed 
the  Himalaya  mountains. 

The  references  to  his  remains  at 
Hiddelburg  are  as  follows  :  *  S.  deWind, 
Mededeeling  omtrent  den  landreizeger 
B.  van  de  Putte  in  Archief.  yroegere  en 
latere  mededeelingen  uitgegeven  door 
het  Zeeuwsch  Genootschap  der  Weten- 
schappen'  (Middelburg,  1S56-63),  i. 
p.  21;  'Inventarls  der  Handschriften 
van  het  Zeeuwsch  Genootschap/  bl. 
36 ;  •  De  Navorscher.'  ii.  58 ;  v.  38 ; 
vi.  113,  175;  vii.  141;  viii.  328; 
ix.  40.  In  1871  Mr.  J.  P.  Bodfel  Nyen- 
hois  read  a  paper  on  the  travels  of 
Van  de  Putte  at  Leyden,  and  exhibited 
his  map  of  part  of  Tibet.  (See  *  Handel- 
ingen  en  mededeelingen  von  de  Maat- 
Bchappy  der  Nederlandsche  letterkunde 
te  Lieiden'  voor  1871,  p.  51 ;  also  *  Vd. 


Aa.  Biographisch  Woordenboek/  art. 
Van  de  Putte ;  and  *  Reizen  van  Eg- 
mond  van  der  Nyenburg«  en  Johannes 
Heyman'  (Leyden,  1758),  ii.  p.  396. 

He  is  mentioned  in  two  letters  :  one 
from  Father  Gaubil,  the  other  from 
Horace  della  Penna,  in  the  *  Journal 
Asiatique,'  x.  p.  323,  and  xiv.  p.  191 ; 
and  in  a  note  to  the  latter,  Klaprotb, 
the  editor,  says,  *'  He  is  the  only  Euro- 
pean who  has  ever  made  the  interesting 
journey  from  the  capital  of  Tibet  to 
that  of  China."  Klaproth  adds  that 
the  traveller's  journal  was  lost.  He 
erroneously  calls  him  Van  der  Put. 
Colonel  Yule  was  the  first  English  geo- 
grapher to  notice  the  travels  of  Van  de 
Putte,  in  his  *  Cathay,  and  the  Road 
Thither,'  i.  p.  49  (note).  Mr.  D'Israeli, 
in  one  of  the  editions  of  his  'Curi- 
osities of  Literature,'  has  an  article  on 
Van  de  Putte,  entitled,  **  A  Mandarine 
from  Middelburgh."  It  calls  him 
Budde,  and  contains  almost  as  many 
mistakes  as  lines. 


IxTi  GORKHA  CONQUEST  OF  NEPAL.  [Intb. 

as  is  shown  by  their  expulsion  of  the  Catholic  priests^  and  by 
their  jealous  conduct  at  the  time  of  the  missions  of  Bogle  and 
Turner. 

The  Capuchin  missionaries  were  Expelled  from  Lhasa  in  about 
1760,  and  took  refuge  at  Lalita  Patan,  in  the  valley  of  Nepal. 
Here  they  were  witnesses  of  a  reyolution  which  has  had  a  fatal 
influence  on  the  commercial  prosperity  and  progress  of  Tibet,  by 
blocking  up  the  passes  into  India  through  Nepal.  This  event 
was  the  destruction  of  the  Newar  dynasty  by  the  military  tribes 
led  by  the  chief  of  the  petty  State  of  Gorkha.  The  Mai  rulers 
of  Nepal,  who  encouraged  commerce  and  the  arts  of  peace,  con- 
sisted of  the  three  Kings  df  Kathmandu,  Patau,  and  Bhatgaon, 
in  the  Nepal  valley.  Their  own  dissensions  appear  to  have 
been  the  immediate  cause  of  their  fall.  The  King  of  Bhatgaon 
applied  to  the  Chief  of  Gorkha,  named  Prithi  Narayan,  to  help 
him  against  the  other  two  kings ;  but  he  soon  saw  the  danger 
he  had  invited,  and  took  measures  of  defence,  making  common 
cause  with  his  brethren  of  Patau  and  Kathmandu.  It  was  too 
late.  The  Gorkhas,  under  Prithi  Narayan,  had  occupied  all 
the  mountains  that  surround  the  valley  of  Nepal,  which  they 
blockaded.  Their  leader  then  broke  into  the  valley,  and  after 
three  sieges  captured  the  town  of  Sirtipur,  committing  atrocious 
acts  of  cruelty  on  the  inhabitants.  The  Newar  Bajahs  entreated 
aid  from  the  English  in  India,  in  1769,  and  a  small  force  was 
sent  under  Captain  Kinloch,  whose  approach  created  a  diversion, 
but  he  eventually  retreated,  and  Prithi  Narayan  captured  the 
three  Nepal  capitals,  one  after  the  other,  in  1769.  The  King  of 
Bhatgaon  was  allowed  to  retire  to  Benares ;  the  King  of  Kath- 
mandu fell  in  the  field,  and  he  of  Patau  died  in  chains.  Thus, 
in  four  years,  the  Nepal  valley  was  subdued,  and  Prithi  Narayan, 
with  his  warlike  tribes,  founded  the  present  Gorkha  dynasty 
by  much  hard  fighting,  followed  by  the  most  hideous  atrocities 
on  the  vanquished. 

The  Fathers  Guiseppe  (who  was  Prefect  of  the  Roman  Mis- 
sion) and  Michael  Angelo  were  eye-witnesses  of  this  conquest 


IHTB.]  GOBKHA  (X)NQUfi8T  OF  NEPAL.  Ixvu 

and  of  the  horrible  cruelties  which  disgraced  it.^  The  mission- 
aries afterwards  obtained  permission  to  retire  with  their  flock 
into  British  territory,  and  they  settled  at  Bettiah,  near  Patna. 
Prithi  Narayan  died  in  177 1«  three  years  after  the  conquest  of 
Nepaly  leaving  two  sons  named  Sing  Pertab  and  Bahadar  Sah. 
The  former  succeeded,  and  died  in  1775,  leaving  an  infant 
son,  and  Bahadar  Sah  became  regent  In  the  time  of  the  re- 
gency, the  Grorkhas  conquered  the  whole  of  Nepal,  and  so  perse- 
cuted the  merchants  by  their  enormous  tolls  and  other  exactions, 
that  the  once  flourishing  trade  between  Tibet  and  India,  by  the 
Nepal  passes,  was  almost  annihilated.  The  misconduct  of  the 
Gorkha  Rajah  was  a  constant  subject  of  complaint  in  the  con- 
versations of  the  Teshu  Lama  with  Mr.  Bogle. 

While  Prithi  Narayan  was  conquering  Nepal,  an  equally 
ambitious  though  less  fortunate  disturber  of  the  peace  arose  in 
Bhutan  in  the  person  of  Deb  Judhur,^  who  overran  Sikkim  and 
held  possession  of  it  for  several  years.  He  then  invaded  Euch 
Bahar  in  1772,  an  aggression  which  brought  him  into  collision 
with  the  British,  and  led  to  his  overthrow.^  The  family  of  the 
Euch  Bahar  Bajah  solicited  the  aid  of  the  Government  of  India, 
and  Warren  Hastings  organized  a  small  field  force,  under  Captain 
John  Jones,  which  speedily  drove  the  Bhutanese  back  into  their 
hillcf,  seized  some  of  their  strongholds,  and  forced  them  to  sue 
for  peace.  The  Teshu  Lama  of  Tibet  also  wrote  a  letter  inter- 
ceding for  them,  and  sent  it  to  Calcutta.^  Deb  Judhur  strove 
to  form  a  coalition  against  the  English,  and  the  Bajahs  of 
Nepal,  Assam,  and  Sylhet  promised  to  join  him,  and  would 
certainly  have  done  so  if  any  success  had  attended  his  arms. 

Warren  Hastings  had  assumed  the  government  of  Bengal  in 
April,  1772 ;  and  in  the  following  cool  season  of  1772-73  the 

>  See  ^  An  Aoconnt  of  the  Kingdom         '  An  aooonnt  of  the  career  of  Deb 

of  Nepal,"  by  Father  Gniseppe,  Prefect  Jndhnr  will  be  found  at  p.  37 ;  and  he 

of   the    Boman   Mission,  in  'Asiatic  is   frequently  mentioned   throughout 

Besearches,*  ii.  pp.  807-322.  lir.  Bogle's  narrative. 

*  Galled  Deb  Jeedah  by  Mr.  Eden         *  See  note  at  p.  1. 
(p.  111). 

e  2 


Ixviii  BOGLE'S  MISSION  TO  TIBET.  [Iktr. 

operations  against  the  Bhutanese  were  undertaken.^  At  their 
successfol  close  he  received  the  dignified  letter  of  intercession 
from  the  Tesha  Lama  which  is  printed  at  page  1 ;  and  he  then 
conceived  and  matured  that  enlightened  policy  which  was  con- 
tinuous during  his  tenure  of  office,  and  which  had  for  its  object 
the  reopening  of  commercial  and  friendly  intercourse  between 
the  lofty  plateau  of  Great  Tibet  and  the  plains  of  India.  Much 
leniency  and  forbearance  were  shown  in  dealing  with  the  de- 
feated Bhutanese,  both  to  conciliate  the  goodwill  of  the  moun- 
taineers themselves,  and  out  of  deference  to  the  wishes  of  the 
Teshu  Lama. 

Warren  Hastings  also  resolved  to  send  an  embassy  to  the 
Deb  Bajah  of  Bhutan,  and  to  the  Teshu  Lama  of  Tibet. 
He  took  this  step  after  very  mature  consideration,  and 
his  preliminary  memorandum^  shows  that  he  had  carefully 
studied  all  the  works  bearing  on  the  subject  to  which  he  had 
access,  including  De  Guignes,  Du  Halde,  Bell,  and  Astley*s 
voyages.  He  selected  Mr.  George  Bogle,  of  the  Bengal  Civil 
Service,  as  envoy,  whose  instructions  are  dated  on  the  13th  of 
May,  1774.  The  narrative  of  this  mission  is  now  published  for 
the  first  time,  and  will,  I  believe,  be  read  with  much  interest. 
Mr.  Bogle  was  the  first  Englishman — except  his  companion  Dr. 
Hamilton  and  Mr.  Manning— who  ever  crossed  the  Tsanpu  in 
its  upper  course,  and  the  only  European  who  ever  had  the  ad- 
vantage of  close  and  friendly  intercourse  with  one  of  the  Grand 
Lamas  of  Tibetan  Buddhism,  and  who  left  a  record  of  his  im- 
pressions and  conversations.  Besides  the  valuable  information 
he  collected,  Bogle's  mission  was  very  successful  in  other  re- 
spects. It  laid  the  foundation  of  a  pob'cy  which,  had  it  been 
steadily  and  cautiously,  but  continuously,  carried  out,  would 
long  ere  this  have  secured  permanent  results.  Bogle  formed  a 
close  friendship  with  the  Teshu  Lama  and  all  his  kindred.    He 

*  See  Gleig^B  '  Memoirs  of  Warren  Hastings/  vol.  i.  pp.  279  and  295. 

«  See  p.  9. 


IKTB.]  ,     HAMILTON'S  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN.  Ixix 

secured  their  hearty  co-operation  and  support  in  the  encourage- 
ment of  trade,  and  even  succeeded  after  tedious  negotiations  in 
inducing  the  Bhutan  Government  to  allow  the  passage  of  mer- 
chants through  their  territory  to  and  from  Tibet  and  Bengal. 
These  successes  were  confirmed  by  the  great  reduction  of  duties 
on  the  frontier/  and  the  establishment  of  a  fair  at  Rangpdr, 
Tinder  conditions  which  were  extremely  advantageous  to  the 
Bhutanese.  Their  expenses  were  paid  by  government,  stables 
were  erected  for  their  horses,  and  houses  for  themselves.' 
But  Mr.  Bogle  found  that  the  Gesub  Eimboche,  or  Begent,  at 
Lhasa,  under  the  influence  of  the  Chinese  agents,  opposed  the 
more  liberal  and  enlightened  views  of  the  Tesbu  Lama,  as  re- 
gards the  admission  of  foreigners  into  Tibet,  with  fettal  effect. 
It  seemed  clear  that  the  only  way  to  counteract  this  was  to 
obtain,  through  the  Teshu  Lama,  a  hearing  at  Peking.  Mr. 
Bogle  returned  from  Tibet  in  June,  1775,  and  Warren  Hastings 
determined  to  continue  an  intercourse  which  had  been  inau- 
gurated with  such  excellent  judgment  and  tact. 

In  November,  1775,  Dr.  Hamilton,  who  accompanied  Mr. 
Bogle  to  Tibet,  was  appointed  to  a  second  mission  to  Bhutan ; 
and  in  January,  1776,  he  reached  the  frontier,  and  received  a 
friendly  letter  from  the  Deb  Kajah  inviting  him  to  proceed  to 
Fuuakha.  He  endeavoured  to  enter  Bhutan  by  an  easier  and 
better  route,  leading  by  the  Lakhi  Diiar  to  Faro ;  but  obstacles 
appear  to  have  been  raised,  and  he  eventually  took  the  old  and 
difficult  route,  by  the  Buxa-Duar,  which  he  had  formerly 
traversed  with  Mr.  Bogle.  Dr.  Hamilton  reached  Punakha  on 
April  6,  and  was  at  Tassisudon  in  May,  1776.  One  of  his 
duties  was  to  examine  into  the  claims  of  the  Deb  Bajah  on 

*  FoUowed  by  their  total  abolition.  mical  Gommueioner  of  the  Beyenne  at 

^  This  wise  encouragement  of  Bhutan  the  time,  it  was  ordered  to  be  discon- 

trade,  by  a  fair  at  Bangpilr,  was  con-  tinned.      The   consequence   was    the 

tinned  until  1831-32,  at  an  annual  cost  falling  off  in  the  trade,  and  it  has 

of  about  20/.    But  in  1832,  at  the  re-  dwindled    ever    since.      (Pemberton, 

commendation  of  Mr.  Nesbiti  an  eoono-  p.  175.) 


Ixx  DEATH  OF  MB.  BOGLE  AND  THE  TESHU  LAMA.       [Intb. 

the  districts  of  Ambari  Fala-kottah  and  Jalpaish,  and  he  came 
to  the  conclusion,  after  taking  evidence,  that  equity  demanded 
their  restoration  to  Bhutan.  He  reported  that  if  restitution 
was  made,  he  would  probably  be  able  to  induce  the  Deb  Rajah 
to  ftilfil  his  agreement  with  Mr.  Bogle,  and  only  to  levy  moderate 
transit  duties  on  merchandise.  Dr.  Hamilton  returned,  after 
insisting  upon  the  agreement  between  the  Deb  Bajah  and 
Mr.  Bogle  being  faithfully  observed. 

In  July,  1777,  Dr.  Hamilton  was  sent  on  a  third  mission  to 
Bhutan,  to  congratulate  a  new  Deb  Bajah  on  his  accession, 
returning  in  September.^  Thus  Warren  Hastings  prevented  the 
opening  made  by  Mr.  Bogle  from  again  being  closed,  by 
keeping  up  regular  intercourse  with  the  Bhutan  rulers,  by 
maintaining  a  correspondence  with  the  Teshu  Lama,  and 
by  means  of  the  annual  fair  at  Bangp^r. 

In  April,  1779,  Mr.  Bogle  was  appointed  as  envoy  to  Tibet 
a  second  time,  but  the  arrival  of  news  that  the  Teshu  Lama 
was  about  to  undertake  a  journey  to  Peking  caused  the  post- 
ponement of  the  mission.  What  followed  is  detailed  in  chapter 
xix.^  The  Teshu  Lama,  at  one  of  his  iirst  interviews  with 
the  Emperor  of  China,  took  an  opportunity  of  speaking  in 
favour  of  Warren  Hastings  and  the  English  in  India.  Mr. 
Bogle,  it  had  been  arranged,  was  to  have  met  his  friend  the 
Lama  at  Peking,  and  would  probably  have  returned  with  him 
to  Tibet.  But  two  great  calamities  frustrated  these  admirable 
plans.  The  Teshu  Lama  died  of  smallpox  at  Peking,  on 
November  12,  1780,  and  Mr.  Bogle  died  at  Calcutta  on  the 
3rd  of  April,  1781. 

Looking  to  the  success  which  had  attended  Mr.  Bogle's 
negotiations,  and  to  his  special  aptitude  for  the  work,  the  death 
of  that  distinguished  public  servant  was  a  national  calamity. 
But  Warren  Hastings  was  not  to  be  turned  aside  from  his  wise 
and  statesmanlike  aim.  He  carefully  watched  the  course  of 
events  for  an  opportunity  to  make  another  move.    At  .length, 

*  Dr.  Hamilton  died  in  1780.  '  See  p.  207. 


Imtb.] 


TUBNEB'S  MISSION  TO  TIBET. 


Izzi 


on  Febrnary  12,  1782,  the  news  arrived  at  Calcutta  that  the 
Teshu  Lama  had  reappeared  in  the  person  of  an  infant ;  ^  and 
the  Goyemor-Greneral  resolved  to  send  a  fourth  mission  to 
Bhutan,  which  was  also  to  continue  its  functions  as  far  as 
Tibet,  with  a  view  to  congratulating  the  Begency  on  the 
renewed  incarnation  of  the  good  Teshu  Lama,  and  to  continuing 
friendly  relations  with  the  Tibetan  goyernment. 

For  this  duty  he  selected  Captain  Samuel  Turner,'  a  young 
kinsman  of  his  own,  who  was  accompanied  by  Lieut.  Samuel 
Dayis,^  and  Dr.  Bobert  Saunders^  as  medical  officer  to  the 
mission. 


'  The  expectation  of  the  event  was 
oommnnicated  to  the  Oovernor-Oeneral 
by  the  Regent  Cbanzn  Cusho,  brother 
of  the  Teshu  Lama,  and  by  8opon 
Ghnmbo,  his  cupbearer,  in  letters  an- 
noQDcing  the  death  of  the  Teshu  Lama ; 
translations  of  which  are  given  in 
Turner^s  '  Embassy,'  pp.  449  and  454. 

'  Samuel  Turner  was  bom  in  Glou- 
cestershire in  1749,  and  entered  the 
army  of  the  East  India  Oompany.  He 
was  a  kinsman  of  Warren  Hastings, 
who,  haying  assured  himself  of  the 
young  officer's  ability,  appointed  him 
to  conduct  the  second  embassy  to  Tibet, 
and  he  was  absent  from  January,  1783, 
to  March,  1784.  In  1792  Turner  dis- 
tinguished himself  at  the  siege  of 
Seringapatam,  and  he  afterwards,  as 
envoy  to  Tipii  Sultan,  oondacted  some 
negotiations  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
Government.  Having  amassed  a  con- 
siderable fortune,  he  returned  to  Eng- 
land, and  published  his  narrative  of 
the  Tibet  Mission  in  1800.  He  died 
suddenly,  in  London,  on  January  2, 
1802.  His  work  was  translated  into 
French  by  Castera.  (Paris,  2  vols.  8vo.) 

'  Lieut.  Samuel  Davis,  of  the  Bengal 
Engineer  Corps,  was  bom  in  1760,  his 
father  having  also  been  in  the  army, 
his  military  commission  having  been 
signed  by  George  II.  in  the  last  year 
of  his  reign,  and  countersigned  by  Wil- 


liam Pitt  Lieut  S.  Davis  was  an  ex- 
cellent artist,  and  the  Bhutan  illustra- 
tions in  Turner's  work  are  from  his 
penciL  The  original  drawings  are  still 
preserved  by  his  son,  Sir  John  Davis, 
at  Hollywood.  But  his  scientific  pro- 
fession was  regarded  with  so  much 
jealousy,  that  the  Tibetan  Government 
(or  more  probably  the  Ohinese  Resi- 
dents) insisted  upon  his  remaining  in 
Bhutan  until  the  return  of  the  embassy. 
Hence  his  drawings  are  confined  to 
Bhutan,  and  do  not  extend  to  Tibet. 
Mr.  Davis  afterwards  received  the  ap- 
pointment of  judge  and  magistrate  at 
Benares.  A  very  interesting  narrative 
of  the  disturbance  excited  at  Benares  by 
the  dethroned  Vizier  All  Khan,  of 
Gudh,  in  January,  1799,  when  Mr. 
Davis  defended  his  family,  single- 
handed,  with  a  long  spear,  against  a 
host  of  assailants,  was  printed  in  1844 
by  his  son,  and  there  was  a  second 
edition  in  1871  C  Vizier  Ali  Khan,  or 
the  Massacre  of  Benares:  a  Chapter 
of  Indian  History').  Mr.  Davis  was 
called  from  Benares  to  fill  higher 
offices  of  trust  at  Calcutta.  He  re- 
turned to  England  in  1806,  and  became 
a  Director  of  the  East  India  Company 
in  1809.  At  the  time  of  the  renewal 
of  the  Charter  in  1814,  the  Committee 
of  the  House  of  O)mmons  intrusted  him 
with  the  task  of  drawing  up,  in  their 


Izzii 


TUKNEB'S  MISSION  TO  TIBET. 


[Ihtb. 


Tamer's  mission  proceeded  to  Tassisudon,  by  the  Buxa- 
Diiar,  exactly  following  Mr.  Bogle's  route,  and  reaching  the 
summer  palace  of  the  Deb  Rajah  early  in  June,  1783.  Captain 
Turner  ceded,  by  order  of  his  Government,  the  districts  of 
Ambari  Fala-kottah  and  Jalpaish  to  Bhutan,  in  accordance 
with  the  adyice  of  Dr.  Hamilton.  They  had  previously  been 
held  by  the  Baikantpur  Zamindar.*  During  Captain  Turner's 
stay  at  Tassisudon  a  rebellion  broke  out  against  the  ruler, 
who  was  the  successor  of  the  Deb  with  whom  Mr.  Bogle  nego- 
tiated, headed  by  the  Zumpan  or  Governor  of  Wandipore,^  an 
important  castle  in  the  valley  in  which  Punakha  is  situated, 
the  winter  palace  of  the  Bhutan  rulers,  but  some  miles  below 
that  place,  and  24  miles  east  of  Tassisudon.  After  some 
desultory  fighting,  the  Deb  Bajah's  troops  blockaded  and 
eventually  captured  Wandipore,  and  soon  afterwards  the 
members  of  the  mission  were  permitted  to  visit  both  Wandipore 
and  Punakha.  On  the  8th  of  September,  after  a  stay  of  three 
months,  Captain  Turner  and  his  companions  left  Tassisudon 
on  their  way  to  Tibet,  attended  by  Purungir  Gosain,  who  had 
also  accompanied  Mr.  Bogle,  and  who  wrote  the  interesting 
account  of  the  Teshu  Lama's  journey  to  Peking,  and  death.' 
They  still  travelled  over  exactly  the  same  route  as  had  been 


name,  the  memorable  *' Fifth  Report 
on  the  Reyenues  of  Bengal,"  which 
remains  a  monument  of  his  intimate 
acquaintance  with  the  internal  ad> 
ministration  of  India.  He  died  pre- 
maturely, at  the  age  of  fifty-nine, 
in  the  year  1819.  Hie  son,  Sir  John 
Davis,  Bart,  K.G.B.,  was  three  years 
old  when  his  life  was  saved  through 
his  father's  intrepidity  and  presence  of 
mind  at  Benares,  having  been  bom  in 
1795.  He  was  attached  to  Lord  Am> 
hersfs  Embassy  to  Peking,  in  1816; 
was  joint  Commissioner  with  Lord 
Napier  for  arranging  commeroial  mat- 
ters with  Gliina,  in  18S6;   and  from 


1843  to  1848  was  Plenipotentiary  in 
China  and  Grovemor  of  Hong  Kong. 
He  is  the  author  of  numerous  valuable 
works  and  essays  on  subjects  relating 
to  China. 

^  Dr.  Robert  Saunders,  some  yeare 
after  his  return  from  Tibet,  retired  from 
the  service,  and  resided  in  London, 
where  he  practised  as  a  physician  for 
many  years. 

^  Mr.  Eden  considered  this  cession 
to  be  unjust. 

*  The  Angdaphorang  of  modem 
maps. 

^  See  note  at  p.  207 


Inm]  TUBNER'S  MISSION  TO  TIBET.  Ixxiii 

taken  by  Mr.  Bogle,  and  arrived  at  Teshu  Lumbo  on  the  22nd 
of  September.  In  passing  through  the  valley  of  Paindm, 
Captain  Turner  notices  haying  seen,  just  visible,  peeping  through 
the  midst  of  some  tall  trees,  a  large  white  house,  memorable 
for  the  birth  of  the  new  Teshu  Lama,  whose  father,  an  uncle  of 
the  Dalai  Lama,  and  mother  were  residing  with  him  there. 
The  place  was  called  Eisu,  or  Kyli.^ 

At  the  time  of  Turner's  visit  the  late  Teshu  Lama's  brother, 
Chanzu  Cusho,  who  is  often  mentioned  by  Mr.  Bogle,  was 
regent,  and  the  Sopon  Chumbo  or  cupbearer  of  the  late  Lama 
was  his  chief  adviser.  Soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  English 
mission  the  infant  Lama  was  removed  from  the  place  of  his 
birth,  in  great  pomp,  and  attended  by  the  Regent  and  a  guard 
of  Chinese  soldiers,  to  a  monastery  prepared  for  his  reception, 
called  Terpaling,  about  two  days'  journey  south  of  Teshu 
Lumbo.  During  his  stay  Captain  Turner  visited  and  described 
the  country  round  Teshu  Lumbo,  the  interior  of  the  monastery, 
the  devotional  ceremonies,  and  the  tomb  dedicated  to  the 
memory  of  the  late  Teshu  Lama.  He  also  gives  an  interesting 
account  of  his  conversations  with  the  Chanzu  Cusho  and  the 
Sopon  Chumbo,  and  some  valuable  notes  respecting  the  religion 
and  government  of  Tibet 

On  the  2nd  of  December,  1783,  the  mission  set  out  on  its 
return  to  Bengal,  but  Captain  Turner  was  allowed  to  make  a 
slight  detour  from  his  previous  route,  in  order  to  pay  his 
respects  to  the  infant  Teshu  Lama  at  the  monastery  of  Terpaling. 
On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  December  the  British  envoy  had 
his  audience,  and  found  the  princely  child,  then  aged  eighteen 
months,  seated  on  a  throne,  with  his  father  and  mother  standing 
on  the  left  hand.  Having  been  informed  tliat,  although  unable 
to  speak,  he  could  understand.  Captain  Turner  said  **  that  the 
Governor-General,  on  receiving  news  of  his  decease  in  China, 
was  overwhelmed  with  grief  and  sorrow,  and  continued  to 

1  See  Tomer,  pp.  230  and  249. 


Ixxi7  TURNER'S  MISSION  TO  TIBET.  .    [Iimi. 

lament  his  absence  from  the  world  until  the  cloud  that  had 
overcast  the  happiness  of  this  nation  was  dispelled  by  his  re- 
appearance,  and  then,  if  possible,  a  greater  degree  of  joy  had 
taken  place  than  he  had  experienced  of  grief  on  receiving  the 
first  moumfdl  news.  The  Govemor  anxiously  wished  that  he 
might  long  continue  to  illumine  the  world  by  his  presence,  and 
was  hopeful  that  the  friendship  which  had  formerly  subsisted 
between  them  would  not  be  diminished,  but  rather  that  it 
might  become  still  greater  than  before;  and  that  by  his  con- 
tinuing to  show  kindness  to  my  countrymen  there  might  be  an 
extensive  communication  between  his  votaries  and  the  depen- 
dents of  the  British  nation/'  The  in&nt  looked  stedfastly  at 
the  British  envoy,  with  the  appearance  of  much  attention,  and 
nodded  with  repeated  but  slow  motions  of  the  head,  as  though 
he  understood^ every  word.  He  was  silent  and  sedate,  his 
whole  attention  was  directed  to  the  envoy,  and  he  conducted 
himself  with  astonishing  dignity  and  decorum.  He  was  one  of 
the  handsomest  children  Captain  Turner  had  ever  seen,  and  he 
grew  up  to  be  an  able  and  devout  ruler,  delighting  the  Tibetans 
with  his  presence  for  many  years,  and  dying  at  a  good  old 
age. 

Captain  Turner  took  his  leave,  and  after  a  short  stay  with 
the  Deb  Bajah  at  Punakha,  he  rejoined  the  Governor-General 
at  Patna,  in  March,  1784.* 

In  the  following  year,  1785,  India  lost  the  services  of  her 

^  See  *  An  Acoonnt  of  an  Embassy  to  account  of  his  interoourse  with   the 

iho  Court  of  the  Teshu  Lama,  in  Tibet ;  officials  in  Bhutan  and  Tibet ;  of  the 

containing  a  Narrative  of  a  Journey  manners,  customs,  and  religion  of  the 

through  Bhutan  and  Part  of  Tibet,  by  people,  and  pleasantly  describes   the 

Captain  Samuel  Turner ;  to  which  are  scenery  and  incidents  along  his  line  of 

added  views  taken   on    the  spot  by  march.    This  work  has  hitherto  been 

Lieutenant  Samuel  Davis ;  and  observa-  the  only  one  on  Qreat  Tibet,  written  by 

tions    botanical,    mineralogical,    and  an  Englishman  who  had  himself  visited 

medical,   by   Bir.    Robert    Saunders/  the  country. 

(London,  1800,  4to,  pp.  xzviii  and  473,  In  a  letter  to  Lord  Mansfield,  Warren 

including  appendices.)  It  is  illustrated  Hastings  gives  an  account  of  Turner's 

by  thirteen  engravings,  and  a  route  mission,    and   speaks   highly   of  his 

map  engraved  by  John  Walker.  journal,  to  which  great  interest  was 

Captain  Turner  gives  an  interesting  attached. 


IHTB.]  MISSION  OP  PUBUNGIB  G06AIN  TO  TIBET.  Ixxv 

first  English  Gk)V6niOT-(}eneral9  and  with  his  retirement  all 
direct  diplomatic  intercourse  between  Tibet  and  India  ceased, 
and  has  never  been  renewed.  Warren  Hastings  had  a  policy 
which  was  alike  wise  and  consistent.  Each  separate  step  was 
not  a  long  one,  but  each  was  a  step  in  advance,  and  what 
was  once  gained  was  never  lost.  The  knowledge  once  acquired 
was  preserved,  in  order  to  fiimish  guidance  for  future  action ; 
and  a  policy  was  established  which  was  persistent  and  con- 
tinuous, and  at  the  same  time  cautious  and  conciliatory.  With 
the  retirement  of  the  great  statesman  all  this  came  to  an  end ; 
and  even  now  it  will  be  long  before  the  Gk)vemment  of  India 
regains  the  ground,  as  regards  friendly  intercourse  with  Tibet, 
that  it  had  actually  reached  when  its  measures  were  guided  by 
the  genius  of  Warren  Blastings. 

When  Warren  Hastings  left  India  he  actually  had  a  diplo- 
matic agent  at  the  Tibetan  Ck>urt.  This  was  Purungir  Gosain, 
the  faithful  companion  of  Bogle  and  Turner,  and  of  the  Teshu 
Lama  in  his  journey  to  Peking.  Purungir  witnessed  the 
removal  of  the  infant  Teshu  Lama  from  the  Terpaling  monastery 
to  Teshu  Lumbo,  amidst  imposing  pomp  and  general  rejoicings ; 
and  his  solemn  installation  in  presence  of  the  Dalai  Lama,  the 
Chinese  political  agent  or  Amba,  the  Gesub  Eimboch^,  and 
the  heads  of  all  the  monasteries  in  Tibet,  in  October,  1784. 
Purungir  Gosain  was  dismissed  by  the  Regent  Chanzu  Cusho 
with  the  most  cordial  assurances  of  his  desire  to  continue  the 
friendly  relations  established  by  Mr.  Bogle,  and  to  encourage 
trade  with  Bengal.^ 

This  Mission  to  Tibet  should  be  remembered,  as  it  was  the 
last.  Matters  were  allowed,  a  few  years  afterwards,  to  drift 
until  they  reached  a  crisis,  the  result  of  which  was  permanently 
to  seal  up  the  passes  into  Tibet,  and  they  continue  closed  to 
English  o£Scials  to  this  day.    The  turbulent  Gorkbas,  under  the 

'  Captain  Tnmer  tranfllated  Pnnin-  (pending  the  arriyal  of   Lord  Com- 

gir  Goeain*8  report,  and  presented  it  wallis),  on  February  6, 1786.  (Turner, 

to    Mr.    Macpherson,    who   suooeeded  p.  423.) 
Warren  HastingB  as  Governor-General 


Ixxvi  GORKHA  INVASION  OF  TIBET.  [Ihtr. 

Begent  Bahadar  Sah,  had  oonqaered  all  Nepal,  and  during  a 
course  of  years  had  committed  lawless  aggressions  on  the  frontiers. 
In  1788  they  invaded  Sikkim,  led  by  the  Subah  of  Murang,  and 
only  retired  after  the  Tibet  Government  had  ceded  a  piece  of 
territory  at  the  head  of  the  Kuti  pass.  At  the  same  time 
the  Regency  appears  to  have  been  willing  to  enter  into  arrange- 
ments with  the  Government  of  Lord  Comwallis  to  protect  the 
trade  of  the  two  countries,  and  in  1792  a  commercial  treaty 
was  negotiated  with  Nepal,  by  Mr.  Jonathan  Duncan,  the 
Besident  at  Benares.^ 

Bat^  in  the  same  year,  the  Nepal  Begency  suddenly  deter- 
mined to  invade  Tibet,  tempted  by  stories  of  the  great  riches 
in  the  Teshu  Lama's  palace,  brought  by  a  refugee  Tibetan 
monk  named  Sumhur  Lama.  The  pretext  of  war  was  that  the 
Tibetans  insisted  upon  circulating  base  coin,  and  refused  either 
to  withdraw  it  or  to  establish  a  fair  rate  of  exchange.'  The 
distance  of  Eathmandu  to  Euti  is  141  miles,  over  one  of  the 
most  difficult  roads  in  the  world,  and  thence  to  Teshu  Lumbo 
257  miles.  The  Gorkha  army,  18,000  strong,  marched  over  the 
whole  distance  of  398  miles  with  extreme  rapidity,  arrived 
before  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  took  and  plundered  the  palace  without 
meeting  with  any  resistance.  The  Tibetans  were  panic-stricken. 
The  Begent  fled  across  the  Tsanpu  with  the  infant  Teshu 
Lama,  and  conveyed  him  to  Lhasa,  whence  entreaties  for  help 
were  despatched  to  Peking.  The  Chinese  Government  at  once 
prepared  an  expeditionary  force,  and  sent  an  envoy  in  advance 
to  the  Nepal  army,  demanding  the  restitution  of  all  the  plunder 
taken  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  the  surrender  of  Sumhur  Lama. 
The  reply  was  an  insolent  defiance :  on  the  receipt  of  which 
the  army,  under  the  command  of  a  general  named  Sund  Fd, 

>  By  the  Treaty  of  Gommeroe  with  the  Nepal  Durbar  a  few   years  after- 
Nepal,  in  1792,  it  was  agreed  that  2}  wards. 

per  cent,  shall  reciprocally  be  taken  as  '  '  Kirkpatrick's   Nepal/  Appendix 

dnty  on  the  imparts  from  both  countries.  No.  1,  p.  339 :  **  Memorial  of  the  Oourt 

The  treaty  was  signed  on  the  1st  of  of  ELathmandu,  relative  to  the  origin  of 

March,  1792,  but  was  repudiated  by  the  War  with  Tibet" 


Irtil]  CHINESE  INVASION  OP  NEPAL.  IxxvU 

oommenced  its  march.  His  force  consisted  of  70,000  men, 
with  the  necessary  stores,  which  he  divided  into  two  colamns, 
of  40,000  and  30,000.  Meanwhile  the  Gorkhas  had  evacuated 
Teshn  Lumbo,  and  retreated  to  the  plain  of  Tengri  Maidan, 
where  they  awaited  the  approach  of  the  Chinese  army.  In 
the  battle  which  followed  the  Gorkhas  were  entirely  defeated, 
and  Sund  Fd  overtook  them,  in  their  retreat,  at  the  head 
of  the  pass  into  Nepal,  and  again  routed  them  with  great 
loss.  He  laid  siege  to  Eati,  which  post  was  evacuated,  and 
then  marched  down  into  Nepal,  by  way  of  Kirong.  He  had 
a  large  army,  far  superior  in  numbers  to  that  of  the  Nepalese, 
and  was  provided  with  very  light  artillery,  the  guns  being 
made  of  leather,  which  served  their  purpose  well  for  five  or  six 
rounds,  and  then  burst  The  loss  of  men  in  tlie  Chinese  army, 
while  crossing  the  snowy  passes,  was  immense;  but  still  the 
numerical  strength  of  the  invaders  was  far  beyond  that  of  the 
Gk)rkhas.  The  latter  made  a  final  stand  in  a  strong  position, 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Tadi,  just  above  Nayakot,  and  only 
20  miles  from  Eathmandu. 

At  this  point  the  two  armies  faced  each  other  for  some  time, 
until  the  Chinese  general,  in  a  fury,  turned  his  own  guns  on  his 
own  men  firom  the  rear,  and  drove  them  forward  in  a  mass 
upon  the  Gorkhas,  sweeping  great  numbers,  and  still  more  of 
the  Gorkhas,  into  the  roaring  torrent.  Thus  a  decisive  victory 
was  gained  within  one  march  of  the  enemy's  capital,  in  Sep- 
tember, 1792.*  The  Nepal  Eegency  then  sued  for  peace,  which 
was  granted  on  very  humiliating  conditions.  The  Gorkhas 
agreed  to  restore  all  their  plunder ;  to  pay  an  annual  tribute  to 
the  Emperor  of  China ;  and  to  send  an  embassy  to  Peking  once 
in  every  five  years.  The  Chinese  army  returned  partly  by  the 
Eirong  pass,  and  partly  by  that  of  the  Arun  river. 

The  conduct  of  the  British  Government,  under  Lord  Corn- 
wallis,  during  the  course  of  these  events  was  unfortunate  in  its 

>  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson's  reooUection  of  oonverBations  with  Bhim  Sen  Thapp*, 
the  sage  old  miniater  at  Ncpal^  who  was  mnrdered  in  1838. 


IxxWii  KIRKPATBIGK'S  MISSION  TO  NES'AL.  (Txtb. 

resalts.  It  would  seem  that  the  wisest  policy  would  haye  been 
to  prevent  or  check  the  invasion  of  Tibet  by  the  Gorkhas,  even 
by  using  force,  if  necessary.  Such  a  course  would  have  ensured 
the  gratitude  of  the  Lamas,  curbed  the  restless  aggression  and 
secured  the  respect  of  the  Gorkha  Regency,  obviated  the  march 
of  the  Chinese  army,  and  prevented  the  final  sealing  up  of  the 
passes.  The  actual  policy  adopted  was  one  of  waiting  and 
drifting. 

In  August,  1792,  Lord  Comwallis  received  a  letter  from  the 
Dalai  Lama,  informing  him  that  the  Chinese  army  had  defeated 
the  Grorkhas,  and  warning  him  not  to  interfere  on  their  behalf. 
The  Gorkha  Begent  had  besought  the  military  aid  of  the 
British,  and  Lord  Comwallis  wrote  to  him,  on  the  15th  of 
September,  1792,  declining  to  give  him  assistance,  and  assign- 
ing  for  a  reason  that  the  English  Company  carry  on  extensive 
commercial  concerns  with  the  Chinese,  and  have  a  factory  at 
Canton,  and  that  therefore  it  is  necessary  to  preserve  a  good 
understanding  with  the  Emperor.  But  he  offered  to  depute  a 
gentleman  in  his  confidence  to  mediate  between  China  and 
Nepal.  Lord  Comwallis  also  replied  to  the  Dalai  Lama  pro- 
posing mediation  after  the  rains,  and  saying  that  Colonel 
Kirkpatrick  had  been  commissioned  to  proceed  to  Kathmandu 
with  that  object. 

But  Colonel  Earkpatrick  was  too  late,  and  long  before  he 
could  arrive  on  the  scene,  the  Chinese  general  had  settled  the 
question  in  his  own  way.  The  British  envoy  was  accompanied 
by  Lieutenant  Scott,  Lieutenant  Enox,  Lieutenant  Gerard, 
and  Dr.  Freer,  with  an  escort  of  sepoys.  The  mission  was 
allowed  to  advance  as  far  as  the  Court  of  Bahadar  Sah,  but  it 
was  then  coolly  bowed  out  of  the  country,  and  Colonel  Kirk- 
patrick retumed  to  Patna,  in  March,  1793.^     In  1795  Bun 

^  See  *  An  Account  of  Nepal ;  being  liahed  without  the  ooncurrenoe  of  the 

the  Substance  of  Obeervations  made  writer,  who  never  corrected  the  proofe, 

during  a  Mission  to  that  Country  in  the  and  it  contains  many  misprints  and 

Year  1793,  by  Colonel  Kirkpatrick.'  other  errors.    The  map  is  by  Colonel 

(London,  1811.)    This  work  was  pub-  Gerard.     The  book  contains  chapters 


Intb.] 


THE  CHINESE  CLOSE  THE  PASSES. 


Izzix 


Bahadar^  the  son  of  Pertab  Sing,  murdered  his  uncles  the 
Begent  Bahadar  Sah,  and  entered  npon  a  career  of  intolerable 
tyranny,  until,  in  1800|  he  was  forced  to  abdicate  in  favour  of 
his  son,  and  he  retired  to  Benares,  where  Captain  Knox,  who 
had  accompanied  Colonel  Kirkpatrick's  mission,  was  appointed 
to  attend  upon  him. 

In  October,  1802,  a  treaty  was  negotiated  with  Nepal,  by 
Captain  Enox,  to  renew  the  provisions  of  that  of  1792,  which 
had  become  a  dead  letter;  and  in  the  same  year  that  ofScer  pro- 
ceeded to  Kathmanda  as  Besident.  But  he  also  was  bowed 
out,  and  the  only  result  of  his  mission  was  the  valuable  work  of 
Dr.  Buchanan  Hamilton,  the  father  of  Indian  statistics,  who 
accompanied  it.^  In  March,  1803,  Captain  Knox  withdrew 
from  Nepal,  and  on  the  24th  of  January,  1804,  Lord  Wellesley 
formally  dissolved  the  alliance  with  the  Durbar.' 

The  Chinese  general  who  invaded  Nepal  gave  a  very  un- 
favourable report  of  the  conduct  of  the  English,  and  is  even 
believed  to  have  suspected  that  British  troops  were  in  the 
Gorkha  army.  We  lost  all  the  good  results  of  the  policy  of 
Warren  Hastings  and  the  friendship  of  the  Lamas,  excited  the 
jealous  suspicion  of  the  Chinese  Government,  and  the  scorn  of 
the  Nepal  Durbar,  and  were  despised  by  alL  The  immediate 
consequence  was  that  the  Chinese  closed  all  the  passes  into 
Tibet  to  the  natives  of  India.  Pari-jong  and  the  other  frontier 
stations  were  occupied,  and  the  Chinese  also  established  a 
strong  post  at  Jonka-jong,^  commanding  the  Eirong  pass,  the  use 
of  which  has  ever  since  been  forbidden  to  any  one  but  officials. 


on  the  rontee,  on  the  valley  of  Nepal, 
the  climate,  population,  arts,  learning, 
trade,  and  hiatorj;  with  appendices 
giving  the  text  of  Lord  Ck)mwalliB'8 
correspondence  with  the  Dalai  Lama 
and  Gorkha  Begent. 

>  See  *  An  Account  of  the  Kingdom 
of  Nepal/  by  Francis  Hamilton  (for- 
merly Buchanan),  M.D.,  F.B.S^  F.8.A., 
F.L.8.  (Edin.,  1819.)     Dr.  Hamilton 


enumerates  the  different  tribes  of  Nepal ; 
describes  the  various  zones  of  olimatCp 
including  the  valley  of  Nepal,  with 
their  productions;  gives  an  account  of 
the  history  of  the  country,  its  govern- 
ment, and  trade. 

*  *  Altchison's  Treaties,'  ii.  p.  189. 

•  Probably  the  Ari-jong  of  D'An- 
yille's  map. 


Ixxx  JOURNEY  OF  MANNING  TO  LHASA.  [Intb. 

Tety  even  subsequent  to  these  stringent  measures  of  exclu- 
sion, a  solitary  English  traveller  succeeded  in  making  his  way 
from  India  to  Lhasa,  and  is  the  only  Englishman  who  ever  entered 
the  holy  city^  It  is  this  that  gives  importance  to  Mr.  Manning's 
brief  journal,  which  is  printed  for  the  first  time  in  this  volume. 
Without  any  recognized  position  or  official  credentials,  he 
entered  Bhutan  by  the  Lakhi  D&ar  in  1811,  and  reached  Pari- 
jong,  on  the  frontier  of  Tibet,  in  the  guise  of  a  medical  prac- 
titioner. There  he  found  a  Chinese  general  with  troops,  some 
of  whom  he  cured,  and  the  general  permitted  hira  to  accom- 
pany his  escort  back  to  Lhasa.  He  remained  in  the  capital  of 
Tibet  for  several  months,  but  orders  eventually  came  from 
Peking  to  send  him  back  by  the  way  he  came,  and  he  returned 
to  Calcutta  in  May,  1812.  His  narrative  is  to  a  great  extent 
filled  with  accounts  of  personal  troubles  and  difficulties,  but  it  is 
valuable  by  reason  of  the  insight  it  gives  into  the  social  habits 
of  the  people,  and  the  relative  positions  of  the  Chinese  and 
Tibetans  at  that  time.  It  also  proves  that,  in  spite  of  the 
exclusive  system  of  the  paramount  power,  the  natives  gladly 
welcome  strangers,,  and  that  a  persistent  and  energetic  traveller, 
even  when  so  quick-tempered  and  imprudent  as  Mr.  Manning 
shows  himself  to  have  been,  may  still  make  his  way  to  Lhasa, 
and,  like  Manning,  enjoy  the  ineffable  delight  of  gazing  upon 
the  divine  features  of  the  Dalai  Lama. 

But  for  officials  the  way  to  Tibet  was  permanently  closed ; 
while  the  countries  on  the  southern  slopes  of  the  Himalaya  were 
alienated  by  the  change  of  poh'cy  from  that  of  Warren  Hastings 
to  that  which  has  prevailed  since.  The  former  was  a  policy  of 
constant  and  watchful  vigilance;  of  firmness  combined  with  con- 
ciliation; and  of  persistent  resolution  to  keep  open  friendly 
relations  and  to  encourage  trade.  The  latter  is  one  of  indiffer- 
ence and  neglect,  varied  by  occasional  small  but  disastrous  wars, 
which  are  waged  not  for  any  broad  imperial  end,  but  on  account 
of  some  petty  squabble  about  boundaries.  The  course  taken  at 
the  time  of  the  Chinese  invasion  resulted  in  the  Nepal  war. 


IWPR.]  WAR  WITH  NEPAL.  Ixxxl 

In  18049  Bnn  Bahadar  retnmed  to  Nepal,  and  was  murdered 
soon  afterwards.  One  of  his  followers,  named  Bhim  Sen  Thappa» 
then  became  regent,  the  Bajah,  ff  grandson  of  Pertab  Sing, 
being  only  two  years  old.  He  was  regent  nntil  1838,  and 
represented  a  martial  and  turbulent  policy.  Under  him  the 
Gorkha  Durbar  commenced  a  system  of  encroachment  and 
menace  along  the  frontier ;  and  on  the  1st  of  November,  1814, 
the  Gt)yemment  of  India,  under  Lord  Hastings,  declared  war. 
General  Ochterlony,  with  6000  men,  was  to  attack  the  west 
frontier ;  General  Gillespie,  with  3500,  was  to  occupy  the  Dehra 
Dun ;  Generals  Wood  and  Marley,  with  4500  and  8000  men  re- 
spectively, were  to  advance  from  the  plains  on  Falpa  and 
£athmandu;  and  Major  Latter,  with  a  local  force,  was  to 
operate  to  the  eastward  of  the  Eosi,  and  in  the  diriection  of 
Sikkim.  Gillespie's  force  occupied  Dehra,  but  through  gross 
mismanagement  was  repulsed  at  the  siege  of  Ealunga  with 
great  slaughter,  and  the  general  was  killed.  Ochterlony's 
operations  near  the  Sutlej  were  more  successful.  But  Wood,  in 
bis  advance  towards  Palpa,  got  disheartened,  and  fell  back  on 
Gorakpiir;  and  Marley  also  retreated  after  advancing  a  short 
distance.  Major  Latter,  however,  occupied  Murung,  and  formed 
an  alliance  with  the  Bajah  of  Sikkim. 

The  general  result  was  that  the  Gorkhas  were  driven  beyond 
the  Kali,  and  agreed  to  make  peace,  abandoning  all  territory 
west  of  the  Eali,  cediug  all  the  Terai  country  and  all  terri- 
tory taken  from  Sikkim,  and  allowing  a  British  agent  to  reside 
at  Eathmandu.  But  the  Nepal  Durbar  refused  to  ratify  the 
treaty,  and  in  February,  1816,  Sir  David  Ochterlony  again 
took  the  field  with  17,000  men,  and  steadily  advanced  from  the 
plains  towards  the  Nepal  capital.  The  Nepalese  then  yielded, 
and  the  treaty  was  finally  signed  on  March  3,  1816. 

The  permanent  results  of  the  war  were  good.  The  Gorkhas 
were  confined  to  the  country  east  of  the  Eali  on  one  side,  and 
on  the  other  their  encroachments  on  the  side  of  Sikkim  were 
stopped,  while  that  little  State,  under  British  protection,  was 

/ 


Ixxxli  TBOUBLES  WITH  BHUTAN.  [Ihtr. 

interposed  between  the  turbulent  Gorkhas  and  Bhutanese.  The 
Lepchas  of  Sikkim  are  ruled  over  by  a  dynasty  of  Bajahs 
originally  from  Lhasa^  wBo  have  always  been  under  the 
dominion  of  Tibet,  and  of  the  Buddhist  religion  and  Dukpa 
(Bed  Cap)  sect.  The  Tlsta  valley  thus  formed  a  barrier  to 
Gorkha  encroachments  on  the  east,  and  in  Sikkim  alone  English 
travellers  are  able  to  advance  as  far  as  the  passes  over  the 
Southern  Himalaya  leading  into  Tibet. 

The  new  policy  led  to  the  same  results  as  regards  Bhutan. 
Instead  of  friendly  intercourse,  the  histor3r  of  the  relations 
between  the  British  and  the  Bhutanese  has  been  one  of  local 
disputes  about  frontiers,  and  raids.  In  1815,  Mr.  David  Scott, 
the  Judge  at  Bangpdr,  sent  a  native  officer,  named  Eishen  Eant 
Bose,  to  settle  some  frontier  disputes  with  the  Deb  Eajah,  and 
his  report  has  been  printed  for  official  information.^  But  it  was 
owing  to  the  annexation  of  Assam,  and  the  consequent  great 
extension  of  the  frontier  between  Bhutan  and  British  territory, 
that  frontier  disputes  became  more  frequent,  and  assumed  a 
more  important  aspect.  The  Government  of  India  had  to  take 
up  the  relations  which  had  previously  existed  between  the 
sovereigns  of  Assam  and  the  Deb  Bajah.  In  former  times, 
owing  to  the  inability  of  the  Assam  rulers  to  expel  the  invaders, 
the  Bhutanese  aggressions  in  the  frontier  Duars  had  been 
allowed  by  them.  In  1828,  the  British  occupied  the  Buri 
Gumah  Dtiar,  because  a  raid  had  been  made  from  it  into 
Assam,  and  held  it  until  1834,  when  it  was  restored,  owing  to 
a  letter  from  the  Deb  Bajah  soliciting  its  restitution.  Other 
raids  into  Assam  took  place  in  1835  and  1886 ;  and  in  1837  it 
was  resolved  to  despatch  a  mission  into  Bhutan,  as  it  was 
suspected  that  letters  to  the  Deb  Bajah  had  frequently  been 
withheld  by  the  Subeths,  or  subordinate  officers,  in  command  of 
the  Duars.    The  Deb  Bajah  showed  great  reluctance  to  receive 

>  <  Account  of  Bootan,'  by  Baboo  ooDtaining  '*  Political  Miaaions  to  Boo- 
Kishen  Kant  Bose,  translated  by  D.  tan.**  (Calcutta.  1865.)  Also  in  the 
Scott,  Esq.,  pp.  187-206  of  the  volnme      'Asiatic  Besearohes,'  xy.  p.  128. 


IHTB.]  PEMBEETON'8  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN.  Ixxxi!! 

an  envoy,  bnt  the  Government  of  India  adhered  to  its  intention, 
and  Captain  Pemberton  was  appointed,  with  a  staff  consisting 
of  Dr.  Griffith,  Ensign  Blake,  and  an  escort  of  twenty-five 
Assam  police. 

Captain  Pemberton  resolved  to  ent-er  Bhutan  by  the  Banska 
Duar,  to  the  east,  so  as  to  traverse  the  country  diagonally,  and 
see  as  much  of  it  as  possible,  before  reaching  the  capital.  In 
1838  the  mission  marched  through  Eamrup  to  Dewangiri,  on 
the  range  of  mountains  overlooking  the  valley  of  Assam. 
Thence  they  proceeded  to  Punakha  by  a  very  circuitous  route : 
first  north,  nearly  to  the  confines  of  Tibet ;  and  then  over  many 
lofty  spurs  from  east  to  west ;  the  journey  occupying  twenty-six 
travelling  days  from  Dewangiri  to  Punakha,  which  place  they 
reached  on  the  1st  of  April,  1838.  Pemberton  returned  by 
BuxarDuar,  the  same  route  that  was  taken  by  Mr.  Bogle,  and 
the  mission  reached  Goalpara  in  May,  1838.  Pemberton 
received  a  very  much  less  favourable  impression  of  the  rulers 
and  people  of  Bhutan  than  Bogle  or  Turner.  The  country  is 
in  a  state  of  continual  anarchy.  Nominally,  while  the  Dharma 
Bajah,  or  Lama  Bimboch^,  is  a  perpetual  incarnation  of  the 
Deity,  and  the  Deb  Bajah  is  elected  by  a  council  of  six  for 
three  years,  in  reality  there  is  an  incessant  struggle  between 
the  governors  of  East  and  West  Bhutan,  called  the  Paro  Penlo 
and  Tongso  Penlo,  and  the  Deb  is  a  puppet  of  the  one  which 
happens  to  have  the  upper  hand.  The  executive  council^ 
according  to  Pemberton,  consists  of  the  Lama  Zimp^,  who 
represents  the  interests  of  the  Dharma  Bajah;  the  Donnai 
Zimp6 ;  the  Tipu  Zimp^,  who  is  governor  of  Tassisudon ;  the 
Puna  Zimp6,  or  governor  of  Punakha;  the  Deb  Zimp^,  who 
represents  the  Deb  Eajah ;  and  the  Kalling  Zimpe.  Captain 
Pemberton's  valuable  report,  besides  the  narrative  of  his 
journey,  contains  a  remmS  of  previous  relations  with  Bhutan ; 
an  account  of  the  D^rs ;  a  general  description  of  Bhutan ;  its 
rivers,  roads,  geology,  government,  priesthood,  revenue,  military 
resources,  agriculture,  manufstctures,  trade,  population,  and  civil 

/2 


IzzxiT  BESIDENT8  IN  NEPAL.  [Intb. 

and  social  stata  It  is  accompanied  by  the  journal  of  Dr* 
Oriffithy  containing  remarks  on  the  nature  of  the  country, 
especially  its  Yegetation,  boundaries,  diyisions,  and  population.^ 

Pemberton's  mission  was  followed  by  no  satisfactory  results. 
The  Bhutanese  really  do  appear  to  be  a  barbarous  and  irre- 
claimable race,  without  records  or  organization ;  and,  in  1838, 
all  memory  of  the  visits  of  Bogle  and  Turner  was  entirely 
obliterated.  The  raids  into  Assam  continued  from  year  to  year, 
followed  by  fruitless  remonstrances,  and  a  barrier  was  perma- 
nently formed  in  this  direction  between  India  and  Tibet. 

In  Nepal,  on  the  other  hand,  although  the  passes  were 
equally  closed,  and  no  European  was  or  is  allowed  to  travel  in 
the  country,  yet  the  residence  of  an  English  officer  at  Eath- 
mandu  led  to  the  acquisition  of  priceless  treasures  of  in- 
formation respecting  the  early  history,  ethnology,  religion,  and 
literature  of  Nepal  and  Tibet.  The  honoured  name  of  Brian 
Hodgson  is  indissolubly  connected  with  these  discoveries. 

After  the  conclusion  of  peace  with  Nepal,  the  first  Resident 
at  Kathmandu  was  the  Hon.  Edward  Gardner,  who  held  the 
appointment  from  1816  to  1829,  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson  being  his 
secretary  from  1820.  From  1829  to  1830,  for  two  years,  Mr. 
Hodgson  was  in  charge ;  Sir  Herbert  Maddock  was  Resident  in 
1830 ;  and  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson  succeeded  him,  and  was  Resident 
at  Kathmandu  from  1831  to  1843.  But  he  had  been  in  Nepal 
since  1820,  a  continuous  residence  of  twenty-three  years.     Yet 

^  '  Report  on  Bootan,'  by  Captain  in  188S.    Dr.  Griffith  was  eqnaUy  dis- 

Boileau   Pemberton,    dated   Calcutta,  tingoiahed  aa  a  botanist.    He  aooom- 

Nov.  30,  1838 ;   and  *  Journal  of  the  panied    Dr.  Wallioh    to   Assam,  and 

Mission   to   Bootan  in    1837-38,'  by  Captain  Pemberton  to  Bhutan ;  joined 

William  Griffith,  M.D. ;    186  pp.   of  the  army  of  the  Indus  in  1839;  and 

the  volume  ou  "  Political  Missions  to  made  his  way  from  Kabul  to  Khurasan. 

Bootan  "  (printed  at  Calcutta  in  1865).  He  died  in  1845.    The  great  object  of 

Captain    Pemberton    was   a   distin-  his  life  was  the  preparation  of  a  geneml 

guished   geographer.      Between   1825  sdentiflo  Flora  of  India, 
and  1830  he  snrreyed  Munipdr  and  Dr.  Griffith's  *  Bhutan  Journal  *  wbs 

portions  of  Cachar;  and  his  exceedingly  published  in  1847  (Calcutta).  He  made 

valuable  large  map,  compiled  from  his  extensive  collections  of  plants  in  Bhn- 

own  work,  and  that  of  Bedford  and  tan,  which  have  been  since  arranged 

Wilcox,  was  lithographed  at  Calcutta  by  Mr.  Oliver. 


Imtb.]         SEBVIOEB  of  MB.  BRIAN  HODGBON  IN  NEPAL.        Ixzxr 


even  a  quarter  of  a  century  seems  but  a  short  time  for  the 
achieyement  of  the  immense  results  for  which,  independent 
of  his  great  public  services,  his  country  is  indebted  to  Mr. 
Hodgson. 

He  deyoted  himself  to  the  study  of  every  branch  of  know- 
ledge relating  to  Nepal  and  Tibet.  In  1824,  Mr.  Hodgson 
announced  the  fact  that  the  original  documents  of  the  Buddhist 
canon  had  been  preserved  in  Sanscrit  in  the  monasteries  of 
NepaL  **  Before  that  time  our  information  on  Buddhism  had 
been  derived  at  random  from  China  and  other  countries  far  from 
India,  and  no  hope  was  entertained  that  the  originals  of  the 
various  translations  existing  in  those  countries  could  ever  be 
recovered.*'  ^  He  procured  copies  of  these  works,  and  sent 
complete  collections  to  the  Asiatic  Society  in  London,  and 
to  the  Society  Asiatique  of  Paris;  while  he  himself  threw  a 
flood  of  light  on  the  history  of  the  Buddhist  religion,  in  several 
essays  written  on  the  spot.'  The  news  of  Mr.  Hodgson's  literary 


>  Max  MtOler's  ^Ohips  horn  a  Ger- 
man Workshop,'  i  p.  189.  (See  alao 
Mra.  Speii^s  *Life  in  Ancient  India,' 
p.  251.) 

'  '^  Notices  on  the  Langnagea,  Lite- 
ratare,  and  Beligion  of  the  Banddhas 
of  Nepaul  and  Shot,  by  B.  H.  Hodgaon" 
C  Asiatic  Seflearohes,'  xvl  p.  409). 

''Sketch  of  BnddbiBm,  deriyed  from 
the  Banddha  ScriptureB  of  Nepal" 
C  J.  A.  S.  B^  ii.  p.  222,  and  y.  p.  28). 

Theee  esaays  were  reprinted  in  one 
yolmne, '  Illustrations  of  the  Literatme 
and  Beligion  of  the  Baddhists*  (Se- 
rampore,  1841% 

Engene  Bomonf  studied  the  mann- 
scripts  sent  by  Mr.  Hodgson  to  Paris, 
and,  after  seyen  years,  he  published,  in 
1844,  'Introduction  k  THistoire  du 
Baddhisme  :"'a  work,*'  says  Max  MUl- 
ler,  "which  laid  the  foundation  for  a 
systematic  study  of  the  religion  of 
Buddha."  Bumouf's  death,  in  1851, 
prevented  the  completion  of  his  work. 
His  last  book,  ^Le  Lotos  de  la  bonne 


Loi,'  published  in  1852,  after  his  death, 
is  dedicated  to  Mr.  Hodgaon. 

Mr.  Hodgson  also  receiyed  a  com- 
plete copy  of  the  Tibetan  Gyclopodia 
(Ghah-gyur  and  Stan-gyurX  in  334 
large  volumes,  as  a  present  from  the 
Dalai  Lama,  which  he  gaye  to  the  East 
India  Company.  In  1864  he  preaented 
a  vast  maaa  of  valuable  manuacripta  to 
the  India  Office  library,  conaiating  of 
chronidea  of  the  Newari  and  Gorkhali 
dynaatieaof  Nepal,  and  numeroua  docu- 
menta  relating  to  Nepal  administration. 

Mr.  TrUbner  haa  done  very  good 
aervice  by  the  publication,  in  a  aingle 
volume,  in  1874,  of  'Esaaya  on  the 
Language,  Literature,  and  Beligion  of 
Nepal  and  Tibet,  with  further  Papera 
on  the  G^eography,  Ethnology,  and 
Commerce  of  thoae  Countriea,  by  B. 
H.  Hodgaon,  Esq.' 

The  book  containa  the  article  on  the 
religion  and  literature  of  Nepal  and 
Tibet,  from  vol.  xvi.  of  the  *  Asiatic  Ee- 
aearohea; '  the  "  Sketch  of  Buddhiam," 


IzzzTi        SERYIGEB  OF  MB.  BBIAN  HODGSON  IN  NEPAL.         [I"™- 

labours  in  Nepal  eventually  reached  as  far  as  Lhasa,  and  the 
Dalai  Lama  opened  a  friendly  correspondence  with  him.  As  a 
proof  of  his  appreciation  of  Mr.  Hodgson's  right  feeling,  his 
Holiness  sent  the  Eoglish  enyoy  the  whole  of  the  existing 
literary  remains  of  the  once  flourishing  Christian  mission  at 
Lhasa.    These  Mr.  Hodgson  presented  to  the  Pope. 

Besides  his  marvellous  literary  industry,  Mr.  Hodgson,  while 
at  Kathmandu,  drew  up  two  memoirs  on  the  military  system  of 
Nepal,  recommending  the  expediency  of  procuring  the  services 
of  a  considerable  body  of  Gorkha  soldiers,  whereby  we  should 
diminish  the  chances  of  collision  with  Nepal  caused  by  the 
pressure  on  its  Grovemment  of  an  excessive  soldiery.  The 
Grorkhas  have  neither  arts,  literature,  nor  commerce  to  draw  off 
their  attention  from  arms.  They  have  that  lusty  hardihood  of 
character,  love  of  enterprise,  and  contempt  of  drudgery,  which 
make  war  especially  congeniaL 

Mr.  Hodgson  next  turned  his  attention  to  promoting  the 
revival  and  extension  of  that  commerce  which  flourished  in 
Nepal  before  the  Gorkha  conquest,  and  submitted  to  his  Govern- 
ment lists  of  imports  and  exports,  routes,  and  every  kind  of 
information  calculated  to  incite  natives  of  Lidia  and  Nepal  to 
take  up  the  matter  in  a  spirit  suited  to  the  times.  Mr.  Hodgson, 
himself,  made  a  trip  to  the  Eosi  river  and  the  Nayakot  valley, 
and  is  the  only  Englishman,  except  Dr.  Hooker,  who  has  ever 
been  allowed  to  travel  in  Nepal  beyond  a  circuit  of  twenty  miles 
round  Kathmandu.  His  essay  on  the  fitness  of  the  Himalaya 
for  the  settlement  of  Europeans  marked  an  epoch  in  the  history 
of  British  Lidia,  for  from  its  publication  dates  the  movement 
for  the  establishment  of  hill  stations,  and  the  enterprises  of  tea 
and  chinchona  planters. 

from  the  *  Transaotions  of  the  Royal  ment,'   xxvii.  (1S57);    on  the  "  Ab- 

Asiatio  Society/  vol.  ii. ;  papers  fiom  originesof  theHiind]aya''(*  J.A.8.B^' 

the  *  J.  A.  S.  B./  Yol.  iv.  p.  211 ;  iii.  xvi.  and  xvii.);  on  the  "  Military  Tribes 

p.  215 ;  Ti.  p.  682.    The  essays  on  the  of  Nepal ; "  on  the ''  Tribes  of  Northern 

*•  Physical  Geography  of  the  Himalaya,"  Tibet ; "  on  the  **  Commcfhse  of  Nepal," 

from  the  volume  of  *  Selections  from  &c. 
the  Records  of  the  Bengal  Govern- 


Ivm]  POLITICAL  SERYIOES  OF  MB.  HODGSON.  Ixxxvii 

The  eminent  political  services  of  Mr.  Hodgson  are  a  matter 
of  history ;  how,  by  his  tact  and  intimate  knowledge  of  Nepalese 
politics,  he  snoceeded  in  substituting  a  friendly  for  a  hostile 
administration ;  how  he  prevented  a  rupture  with  Nepal  through- 
out the  trying  period  of  the  Afghan  war ;  and  how  his  personal 
influence  converted  a  concealed  and  dangerous  enemy  into  a 
friend.  Before  his  retirement^  the  Nepal  Durbar  placed  the 
whole  military  force  of  the  country  at  the  disposal  of  the 
Govemor-GeneraL 

Since  our  first  relations  with  Nepal,  in  1792,  the  English 
have  had  to  deal  exclusively  with  military  Maire$  du  Palais. 
The  ablest,  and  he  who  had  the  longest  tenure  of  power,  was 
Bhim  Sen  Thappa.  But  he  at  last  was  overthrown  and  forced  to 
commit  suicide,  in  July  1838,  after  having  been  at  the  head  of 
affairs  for  thirty  years.  Eala  Panday,  the  new  minister,  com- 
menced a  series  of  hostile  intrigues  with  native  states  ia  India, 
until  Mr.  Hodgson  obtained  a  formal  promise  that  these  in- 
trigues should  cease.^  A  nephew  of  the  old  minister  Bhim  Sen 
Thappa,  named  Mataber  Sing,  became  Prime  Minister  in  1843, 
when  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  succeeded  Mr.  Hodgson  as  Resident 
The  supersession  of  Mr.  Hodgson,  in  1843,  was  a  great  blunder. 
His  long  experience,  and  the  respect  and  friendship  that  were 
felt  for  him  by  the  governing  class  in  Nepal,  rendered  his 
continued  tenure  of  office  most  important ;  while  his  abrupt  and 
unwise  recall  put  a  stop  to  many  valuable  literaiy  investi- 
gations, and  has  abridged  the  knowledge  we  should  otherwise 
have  had  with  more  completeness  respecting  Nepal  and  Tibet. 
The  minister,  Mataber  Sing,  was  murdered  in  1845,  the  same 
year  in  which  Sir  Henry  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  J.  R.  Colvin. 
The  latter  was  followed  by  Major  Thorsby,  in  1847,  and  Major 
Bamsay  was  Resident  irom  1849  to  1868.^  Guggun  Sing  became 
Minister  in  1845,  and  his  murder,  together  with  the  massacre  of 

>  See  Aitdhison'B  'Treaties,'  ii.  pp.         '  When  he  was  snoeeeded  by  ICr. 
212  and  220.  Girdlestone,  the  present  BesideDt  at 

Kathmando. 


IxzxTiii  GSOKA  DE  KOBOB.  [Ihtb. 

thirty-one  of  the  meet  influential  chiefs  in  Nepal,  paved  the  way 
to  the  rise  of  Jang  Bahadar,  a  nephew  of  Mataber  Sing,  to  the 
office  of  Prime  Minister  in  1846,  with  Surandra  Bikram  Sah  as 
Maharajah  of  Nepal. 

Except  for  a  few  months  in  1856,  Jang  Babadar  has  retained 
power  ever  since,  and  the  bearing  of  the  Nepal  Durbar  has  been 
more  friendly  to  the  British  Grovemment,  especially  since  the 
visit  of  the  powerful  minister  to  Europe  in  1850.^  But  the 
passes  remain  closed,  and  Europeans  are  not  allowed  to  visit 
any  part  of  Nepal,  except  the  valley  round  Eathmandu. 

Alexander  Csoma  de  Eoros,  the  eminent  Tibetan  scholar, 
worked  in  the  same  field  of  research  as  Mr.  Hodgson,  and  at  the 
same  time.  A  Siculo-Hungarian  of  Transylvania,  and  without 
means,  this  devoted  student  made  his  way  to  India  by  land,  with 
the  object  of  investigating  Eastern  languages  and  literature,  and 
of  ascertaining  their  relation  to  his  own  Magyar  tongue.  It  is 
much  to  the  credit  of  the  Government  and  officials  of  British 
India  that  Csoma  de  Koros  should  have  been  cordially  welcomed 
and  liberally  assisted.  He  first  went  to  Ladak  and  Zanskar, 
and  studied  the  Tibetan  language  and  literature  in  the  Buddhist 
monastery  of  Pugdal,  from  1827  to  1830 ;  and  he  then  proceeded 
to  Calcutta,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  some  of  the  results  of  his 
labours  to  the  world,  where  he  was  very  kindly  received  by 
Mr.  Wilson  and  Mr.  James  Prinsep. 

Csoma  de  Koros  ascertained  that  the  literature  of  Tibet  was 
entirely  of  Indian  origin,  the  immense  volumes  being  translar 
tions  from  Sanscrit.  His  teacher  in  the  Tibetan  language  was 
a  learned  Lama  of  Zanskar,  named  BandS  Sangs-rgyas  Phun- 
tshogs ;  and  when  his  grammar  and  dictionary  were  completed, 
the  Government  of  India  very  properly  sanctioned  its  being 
brought  out  at  the  public  expense.    He  also  published  several 

1  Bee  ^Nanatiye  of  a  Five  Tears'  Eatmandn  with  the  Gamp  of  Jong 

Beaideuoe  at  Nepal,  from  1841  to  1845,'  Bahadoor'  (Murray,    1852),    by    Mr. 

by  T.  Smith  (1852).   This  book  is  very  Laurence  Oliphant,  who  accompanied 

untnifltworthy,andi8full  of  inaccurate  the  Nepalese  Minister,  on  his  return, 

statements.    See  also,  *  A  Journal  to  from  Ceylon  to  the  capital  of  Nepal. 


IsTB.]  ARCHIBALD  OAMPBELL. 

valoable  papers  in  the  'Asiatic  Researches/  and  in  the '  Journal 
of  the  Asiatic  Society  of  Bengal.' 

In  1842y  M.  Csoma  de  Koros  set  out  on  an  adventurous 
journey  in  the  footsteps  of  Mr.  Manning,  with  the  intention  of 
making  his  way  to  Lhasa,  in  order  to  gain  access  to  the  stores 
of  Tibetan  literature  which  he  believed,  from  his  reading  in 
Ladak,  were  still  extant  there.  But  this  indefatigable  scholar 
died,  of  fever,  in  1842,  in  Dr.  CampbelFs  house  at  Darjiling.^ 

Next  to  Mr.  Hodgson  and  Csoma  de  Koros,  the  most  distiu* 
guished  contributor  to  our  knowledge  of  the  region  lying 
between  India  and  Tibet,  during  the  present  century,  is  un- 
doubtedly Dr.  Campbell.  Archibald  Campbell  was  bom  in 
1805,  and  was  appointed  an  assistant  surgeon  in  the  East  India 
Company's  service  in  1828.  He  first  came  to  Nepal  in  1880, 
as  surgeon  to  the  residency  at  Eathmandu,  and  left  in  1838, 
having  been  sent  by  Mr.  Hodgson  to  settle  a  boundary  dispute 
with  Sikkim.  This  service  was  so  well  performed  that  it  led  to 
Dr.  Campbell  receiving  charge  of  the  hill  station  at  Darjiling. 
While  under  Mr.  Hodgson  he  wrote  a  narrative  of  our  political 
relations  with  Nepal,  and  an  excellent  paper  on  the  agriculture 
of  the  Nepal  valley.' 

The  hill  station  of  Darjiling,  370  miles  to  the  north  of 
Calcutta,  is  on  a  ridge  of  the  Sikkim  Himalaya,  at  a  height 
varying  from  6500  feet  to  7500  feet  above  the  sea.    In  1828 

>  See  *  J.  A.  a  B.,*  xL  p.  803  (1842).  "  Traiislation  of  a  Tibetan  Passport," 

The  works  of  Osoma  de  Koros  were :  ii.  p.  201 ;    '*  Origin  of  the  Bbakya 

'Esbaj  towards  a  Dictionary,  Tibe-  Baoe,"    ii   p.  885;    *' Extracts  from 

tan  and  English.'    (Oalontta,  1884.)  Tibetan  Works/'  iu.  p.  57;  **  Analysis 

*  A  Giammar  of  the  Tibetan  Lan-  of  a  Tibetan  Medical  Work,"  iy.  p.  1  ; 

gnage  in  English.'    (Oalontta,  1834.)  '*  Different  Systems  of  Buddhism,  from 

**  Notices  on  the  Life  of  Sakya,"  and  Tibetan  Anthorities,"  yii.  part  i.  p.  142 ; 

of  some  Tibetan  works,  in  the  *  Asiatic  ^  Ennmeration  of  Tibetan  Works,"  vii. 

Beeearohes,'  vol.  zx.  pp.  285,  393,  and  p.  147 ;   also  ix.  part  ii.  p.  905 ;  y. 

553.  pp.  264  and  384. 

In  the 'Joomal  of  the  Asiatic  Society  *  ''Notes  on  the  Agricaltore  and 

of  Bengal'  there  are  ''Geographical  Bural  Economy  ofthe  Valley  of  Nepal," 

Notice  of  Tibet,"  i  p.  121 ;  "  Note  on  in  yol.  iy.  of  the  '  Transactions  of  the 

the  Origin  of  the  EaU-Ghakra  and  Agricnltnial  and  Horticultural  Society 

the  Adi-Buddha  Systems,"  ii.  p.  57 ;  of  India.' 


xo 


DABjfLING.  [prm. 


Mr.  J.  W.  Grant  and  Major  Herbert,  the  Surveyor-General  of 
India,  reported  on  the  eligibility  of  Darjfling  as  a  sanitarium, 
and  the  Sikkim  Rajah  was  induced  to  sign  a  deed,  in  February, 
1835,  ceding  the  territory  in  exchange  for  a  pension  of  3002.  a 
year.^  Dr.  Campbell  was  appointed  superintendent  of  the  new 
station  in  1840,  and  was  entrusted  with  the  charge  of  political 
relations  with  Sikkim. 

Dr.  Campbell  described  Sikkim — called  Dinjing  by  the 
inhabitants — ^as  covering  an  area  of  about  1550  square  miles^ 
with  a  population  of  7000,  of  whom  3000  are  Lepchas,  2000 
Bhutanese,  and  2000  Limbus.  There  is  no  money  revenue,  and 
the  contributions  in  kind  from  agricultural  produce  and  transit 
duties  would  not  exceed  Bs.  7000  a  year.  The  country  is  to 
a  great  extent  covered  with  forest  and  thick  underwood.  The 
Bajah  is  tributary  to  China  through  Lhasa,  and  resides  from 
November  until  May  at  Tumldng,  and  the  rest  of  the  year  at 
Chumbi,  within  Tibetan  territory.  The  Bajah  of  Sikkim  had 
desired  to  secure  an  exchange  of  runaway  slaves,  which  was 
refused,  and  in  the  preposterous  hope  of  securing  compliance, 
his  officers  suddenly  seized  and  imprisoned  Dr.  Campbell  and 
Dr.  Hooker,  while  travelUng,  in  1849,  and  detained  them  for  six 
weeks.  As  a  punishment  for  this  outrage  the  allowance  was 
stopped,  and  a  piece  of  territory,  including  the  lower  course  of 
the  Tfsta  and  the  Sikkim  Terai,  was  annexed. 

The  settlement  of  Darjfling,  meanwhile,  advanced  rapidly 
under  Dr.  Campbell's  able  management.  In  1839  it  did  not 
contain  more  than  100  souls ;  in  1849  there  were  10,000,  chiefly 
by  immigration  from  Nepal,  Sikkim,  and  Bhutan,  in  all  of  which 
States  slavery  is  prevalent.  Allotments  of  land  were  bought  by 
Europeans,  barracks  and  houses  were  built,  and  Dr.  Campbell 
established  an  annual  fair  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  which  was 
most  successful.  A  considerable  trade  in  musk,  salt,  gold  dust, 
borax,  ponies,  and  woollen  cloths  soon  sprang  up. 

Dr.  Hooker  thus  wrote  in  1854 :  "  He  [Dr.  Campbell]  raised 

*  Increased,  in  1846,  to  6002.  a  year. 


Ihtb.]  WAB  with  SIEEIH.  zoi 

British  Sikkim  from  its  pristine  condition  of  an  impenetrable 
jnngle^  tenanted  by  half  sayage  and  mutually  hostile  races,  to 
that  of  a  flourishiDg  European  hill  station,  and  a  rich  agri. 
cultural  province."  It  has  since  become  a  centre  of  tea  and 
chinchona  cultivation. 

The  misunderstandings  with  the  Sikkim  Bajah  arose  from 
his  kidnapping  propensities.  Two  specially  gross  cases,  in  I86O9 
caused  an  order  that  his  territory  north  of  the  Bumam  river 
and  west  of  the  Great  Bunjft,  should  be  occupied  until  restitu- 
tion was  made.  The  occupying  force  was,  however,  attacked 
and  driven  back,  and  in  February,  1861,  a  larger  detachment, 
under  Lieutenant-Colonel  Crawler,  with  the  Hon.  Ashley  Eden  as 
envoy,  crossed  the  Great  Bunjlt  into  Sikkim,  proceeded  to 
Tnmlung,  and  enforced  the  Eajah's  agreement  to  another  treaty, 
dated  March  28, 1861.  Nurugay  Dewan,  who  had  imprisoned 
Dr.  Campbell,  and  had  been  incessantly  hostile,  was  expelled 
from  Sikkim  for  ever,  and  Chfbu  Lama,  a  friend  to  the 
English,  was  appointed  Dewan  in  his  place.  The  other  articles 
secured  free  trade,  and  the  right  of  travelling  and  making 
roads  in  Sikkim.' 

Dr.  Campbell  presided  over  the  destinies  of  the  hill  station 
of  Darjiling  for  twenty-two  years,  from  1840  to  February  1862, 
when  he  retired.  He  returned  to  England,  but  he  continued  to 
take  an  active  part  in  furthering  projects  for  the  good  of  Darjt- 
ling,  especially  the  cultivation  of  tea,  the  establishment  of 
chinchona  plantations,  and  the  construction  of  the  Darjiling 
railway.  He  was  a  very  active  member  of  the  Society  of  Arts, 
and  also  of  the  Anthropological  Institute.  When  Dr.  Campbell 
died,  on  November  8,  1874,  his  great  experience  and  wide 
knowledge  of  these  subjects  were  missed,  and  his  loss  will  long 
be  felt  by  those  who  are  interested  in  the  progress  of  Lidian 

^  See    *  Sikkim;     with    Hints    on  Thibet,  and  Western  Ohina,' by  Colonel 

Mountain  and  Jangle  Warfare,  exhibit-  ^.  G.  Oawler,  F.B.G.8.  (Stanford,  1878.) 

ing  also  the  Facilities   for  Opening  This  little  book  gives  an  interesting 

Commercial   Relations    through    the  aoooont  of  the  military  operations  in 

State  of  Sikkim  with  Central  Asia,  Sikkim  in  1861. 


ZQU 


DR.  J.  D.  HOOKEB. 


|[Ihtb« 


trade,  and  in  the  opening  of  friendly  intercourse  along  our 
Himalayan  frontier.^ 

In  November,  1847,  Dr.  Hooker  left  England  on  his  memor- 
able expedition  to  Sikkim,  where  he  resided  for  two  years,  and 
his  exploring  journeys  throw  much  new  light  on  the  geography 
of  the  Himalaya,  and  furnish  the  only  information  we  have 
respecting  some  of  the  passes  into  Tibet.  He,  with  Dr.  Camp- 
bell, was  the  first  European  to  visit  the  passes  at  the  head 
waters  of  the  Tista,  and  he  is  still  the  only  European  who  has 
explored  those  on  the  Tambur  river,  in  Eastern  Nepal. 

In  November,  1848,  Dr.  Hooker  entered  the  valley  of  the 
Tambur,  a  tributary  of  the  Eosi,  in  Eastern  Nepal,  ascending 
it,  and  its  affluent  the  Yangma,  until  he  reached  the  passes  of 
Wallanchun  (10,385  feet),  Yangmachen,  and  Eambachen  or 
Nango,  obtaining  a  view  into  Tibet.  From  some  of  the  points 
on  this  adventurous  journey  the  scenery  was  superb,  and  its 
grandeur  is  brought  home  to  us  by  a  master  hand.  From  the 
Tonglo  hill,  above  the  Tambur  valley,  '^  Kanchan-junga  was 
nearly  due  north — ^a  dazzling  mass  of  snowy  peaks  intersected 
by  blue  glaciers  which  gleamed  in  the  slanting  rays  of  the 
rising  sun,  like  aquamarines  set  in  frosted  silver.  To  the  east  was 
a  billowy  mass  of  forest-clad  mountains,  on  the  north-east  horizon 
rose  Donkia  and  Chumalhari,  to  the  west  Mount  Everest.'' 

Afterwards,  in  the  autumn  of  1849,  accompanied  by  Dr. 
Campbell,  he  went  up  the  valley  of  the  Tlsta  in  Sikkim,  and 


'  Besides  his  '  Memoirs  on  the  Poli- 
tical RelatiouB  with  Nepal,'  and  *0n 
the  Agricnltore  of  the  Nepal  Valley/ 
already  referred  to,  Dr.  OampbeU  was 
the  author  of  many  articles  in  the 
'Journal  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of 
Bengal/  and  other  periodicals. 

Among  these  were  ethnological 
papers  on  the  Lepchas,  Limbus,  Mar- 
mis,  and  Lushais,  which  have  also  been 
printed  in  the  *Jonmal  of  the  An- 
thropological Institute  ; '  a  paper  "  On 
the  YaUey  of  Chmnbi/'  in  the '  Journal 


of  the  Royal  Asiatic  Society '  for  Sep- 
tember, 1873 ;  '*  On  the  Commerce  of 
India,"  in  the '  Journal  of  the  Society 
of  Arts '  for  17th  of  March,  1871 ;  and 
'*0n  the  Belations  with  Sikkim  and 
Nepal/'  in  the  '  Oriental '  of  January, 
1874.  He  also  wrote  a  valuable  paper, 
"  On  the  Government,  Litentture,  Offi- 
cers, and  Agriculture  of  Eastern  Tibet,*' 
in  the  '  Journal  of  the  Asiatic  Society 
of  Bengal '  for  1855,  p.  219,  reprinted 
in  the  *  Phoenix/  pp.  83,  107  (edited 
by  Rev.  James  Summers). 


IliTR.]  HOOKEB'S  HIMALATAN  JOURNALS.  xciii 

of  its  feeders  the  Lachen  and  LacbuDg,  to  the  EoDgra-lama 
(15,745  feet)  and  Donkia  passes  (18,466  feet),  and  even  suc- 
ceeded in  going  some  distance  into  Tibet  beyond  the  pass,  as 
iiEtr  as  the  small  lake  of  Cholamii^  the  actaal  source  of  the 
Lachen,  17,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Here  they  obtained  a 
magnificent  yiew  of  the  C!entral  Range  of  the  Himalaya,  and 
ascertained  that  the  nearest  Tibetan  village  was  Kamba-jong. 
Dr.  Hooker  also  visited  the  Cho-la  pass  leading  from  Sikkim 
into  the  Chnmbi  valley,  and  explored  all  the  valleys  of  Sikkim, 
making  a  very  magnificent  botanical  collection,  including  the 
glorious  Sikkim  rhododendrons.  Dr.  Hooker  returned  to 
England  in  1851. 

The  'Him&layan  Journals'  form  a  fascinating  book  of  travels, 
in  which  the  reader  may  obtain  a  vivid  impression  of  the 
scenery,  and  the  nature  of  the  country  from  the  ierai  fringing 
the  plains,  to  the  passes  into  Tibet  and  the  snowy  peaks ;  and 
the  work  is  quite  indispensable  to  a  student  of  Himalayan 
geography.^  Dr.  Hooker  also  made  a  topographical  survey  of 
Independent  Sikkim,  resulting  in  what  is  still  the  only  map  of 
that  country.  This  is  the  most  valuable  contribution  that  any 
private  traveller  ever  made  to  the  geography  of  the  Himalayan 
region. 

Dr.  Hooker  was  the  first  Europeau'who  reached  the  passes 
leading  into  Great  Tibet  since  the  return  of  Mr.  Manning  in 
1812.  But,  in  the  interval,  students  of  Chinese  literature  had 
collected  much  accurate  information  respecting  that  interesting 
country.  Heinrich  Julius  Elaproth  is  the  most  eminent  of  these 
scholars.  Bom  in  1783,  the  son  of  a  professor  of  chemistry  at 
Berlin,  he  early  devoted  himself  to  the  study  of  Oriental 
languages,  and  in  1805  he  accompanied  a  Bussian  Ambassador 
to  Peking.  He  afterwards  visited  the  Caucasus,  and  on  his 
return  he  settled  at  Paris,  where  he  organized   the  Asiatic 

■  *  Himalayan  JonmaU ;  or.  Notes  of      Dalton   Hooker,  M.D.,  R.N.,  F.B.S. 
a  Natuzalist  in  Bengal,  the  Sikkim      (2  yols.    Murray,  1854.) 
and  Nepal  Mountains,  &c.,'  by  Joseph 


XOIT 


KLAPBOTH,  QUTZLAFF,  HUC. 


P 


Society,  and  edited  the  '  Journal  Asiatique/  and  where  he  died 
in  1835.  His  most  valoable  service  to  those  who  are  interested 
in  Tibet  consists  in  the  translation  of  a  detailed  description  of 
that  country  from  the  great  geographical  dictionary  of  Qiina, 
published  at  Peking  in  1775.  It  contains  a  short  history  and 
descriptive  lists  of  the  towns,  rivers,  lakes,  mountains,  and 
passes  in  the  four  provinces  of  (7,  Tsang,  Earn,  and  Ari.^ 

Another  scholar  who  has  thrown  some  light  on  Tibetan 
history  and  geography  from  Chinese  sources  is  Dr.  6utzla£^ 
a  native  of  Stettin,  bom  in  1803,  who  went  to  China  as  a 
missionary  in  1830,  and  was  afterwards  appointed  Secretary  to 
Government  at  Hong  Eong,  where  he  died  in  1851.  In 
chapter  ix.  of  his  valuable  work,  ^  China  Opened,'  he  gives  some 
account  of  the  geography  and  history  of  Tibet,  and  he  has  col* 
looted  more  information  on  the  same  subject  in  his  *  History  of 
China,'  and  other  writings.^ 

The  only  Europeans  who  have  visited  Lhasa  since  the  time 
of  Mr.  Manning  are  MM.  Hue  and  Gabet,  the  adventurous 
French  missionaries  who,  in  1844,  when  residing  near  the  Great 
Wall,  were  appointed  by  their  ecclesiastical  superiors  to  make 
their  way  to  the  city  of  the  Dalai  Lama.  After  eighteen  months 
of  long  marches  and  terrible  hardships,  the  missionaries  arrived 
at  Lhasa,  weary  and  exliausted.  They  were  only  allowed  to 
reside  about  a  month  in  the  capital  of  Tibet;  but,  besides  giving 
much  very  interesting  information  respecting  the  Buddhist 
hierarchy  and  the  people,  they  happened  to  arrive  at  the  time 
of  a  crisis  in  Tibetan  history. 


^  Bee  *  Magasin  Asiatique ;  ou,  Be- 
viie,  gfk)gfaphiqne  et  historiqne,  de  la 
Asie  centrale  et  septentrionale,'  public 
par  M.  J.  Elaproth  (i.  and  ii.,  1825 
and  1826,  Paris);  'Description  du  8i 
Dzang  ou  Tibet*  (pp.  20d-307);  and 
*Boate  de  Tckhing-tou-fou  en  Chine 
k  travers  le  Tubeto  riental,  jusqu'k 
H'lassa  ou  Lassa.'  (Pekin,  1792, 
pp.  97-132.)  See  also  '  Nouv.  Journal 
Asiatique/  iv.  p.  81 ;   vi.  p.  161 ;  vii. 


pp.  161,  185.  Klaproth  edited  the 
letters  of  Orazio  della  Penna,  and 
other  missionaries,  in  the  *  Journal 
Asiatique.' 

*  'China  Opened,*  by  the  Bey.  C. 
Gutzlaff  (2  vols.,  1888) ;  '  History  of 
China;*  "Bemarks  on  the  Present 
State  of  Buddhism  in  China  **  ('Journal 
of  the  Boyal  Asiatic  Society,*  xvi. 
p.  73) ;  "  Tibet  and  Sefan  **  ('B.  Q.  S.  J.,* 
XX.  p.  191). 


INTB.]  TIBETAN  POLITICS.  xov 

The  Chinese  military  gupremacy  had  recently  been  prac- 
tically tested  by  a  repetition  of  such  an  expedition  to  repel 
invasion  as  was  undertaken  against  Nepal  in  1792.  Gulab 
Singy  of  JammUy  afterwards  Maharajah  of  E&shmir^  had,  in 
1834,  sent  an  army  of  Dogras,  commanded  by  his  General 
Zorawar  Sing,  to  invade  Ladak,  which  mountainous  region  was 
overrun  and  conquered.  In  May,  1841,  this  chief,  with  5000 
men,  advanced  up  the  valley  of  the  Indus,  and  occupied  Gug4 
and  the  country  round  the  sacred  Mansarowar  lake.  The  news 
of  this  invasion  reached  Lhasa  in  November,  and  a  Chinese 
army  advanced  over  the  Mariam-la  pass,  near  which  the  hostile 
forces  met  on  the  12th  of  December,  1841.  The  battle-field  was 
15,000  feet  above  the  sea.  There  was  a  desultory  fight  for  two 
days,  when  Zorawar  Sing  was  killed,  the  Dogras  entirely 
defeated,  and  only  one-sixth  escaped  from  the  field.^  Some 
fled  by  the  Nepalese  pass  of  Taklakhar  to  the  British  province 
of  Eumaon,  others  laid  down  their  arm&  The  Chinese  troops 
advanced  as  far  as  Leh,  but  eventually  peace  was  made  in  1842, 
and  the  old  boundary  was  re-established. 

This  campaign  was  followed  by  important  events  at  Lhasa. 
Lobsang  Champal,  the  seventh  Dalai  Lama,  died  in  1805,  and 
since  then  a  Gesub  Bimboch^,  or  Nomen-khan,  named  Si-Fan,  a 
native  of  Eansu,  had  been  regent  for  many  years,  while  no  less 
than  three  Dalai  Lamas  had  died  suddenly  and  under  suspicious 
circumstances.  Gradually  dark  rumours  of  assassination  began 
to  circulate.  The  four  ministers,  called  Eahlons,  entertained 
no  doubt  of  the  Regent's  guilt,  but  the  Gesub  had  a  large  and 
powerful  party  in  some  of  the  monasteries.  They  therefore 
sought  aid  from  the  Teshu  Lama,  the  same  sacred  personage 
who,  in  his  infancy,  had  honoured  Captain  Turner  with  an  inter- 
yiew  fiftyH9even  years  before.  His  Holiness,  as  soon  as  the 
new  Dalai  Lama  was  discovered  and  enthroned,  appealed  to  the 
Emperor  of  China  to  save  him  from  the  fate  of  his  predecessors. 

*  In  the  same  month  of  the  same  year  the  British  army  was  destroyed  at 
Kabul.    (Ounningham's  *  Ladak,'  p.  358.) 


xovi  TIBETAN  POLITICS.  [TirrB. 

Compliance  i^ith  the  request  of  the  Tesha  Lama  was  at 
once  resolved  npon,  and  a  statesman  named  Keshen  (Ei-chan), 
who  had  been  disgraced  for  making  peace  with  the  English  at 
Oanton^  was  sent  as  special  envoy  to  Lhasa,  in  1844,  to  settle 
the  matter  respecting  the  Nomen-khan.  Li  concert  with  the 
Teshu  Lama,  the  Chinese  envoy  arrested  the  suspected  assassin, 
obtained  confessions  by  the  use  of  torture  on  his  followers,  and 
the  Nomen-khan  confessed  his  crimes  to  escape  a  similar  ordeal. 
He  was  condemned  to  perpetual  banishment,  and  an  insurrec- 
tion of  15,000  lamas  of  his  faction,  from  the  monastery  of  Sera, 
was  suppressed  owing  to  the  pusillanimity  of  their  patron, "  who 
had  the  cowardly  energy  of  an  assassin,  but  not  the  audacity  of 
a  revolutionist."  * 

A  young  lama  of  the  Bripung  or  Debang  monastery  (named 
Bating  Lama')  was  chosen  as  Nomen-khan  by  the  Chinese,  and 
as  both  he  and  the  Dalai  Lama  were  minors,  the  senior  Kahlon, 
named  Pe^chi,^  became  regent  The  Pundit  of  1866  relates 
that  formerly  the  regent  was  chosen  from  the  monasteries  of 
Kontyaling,  Tankyaling,  Chumuling,  and  Chochuling ;  but  that 
when  the  assassinating  Begent  was  removed,  the  Chinese  were 
aided  by  the  7700  monks  of  the  Debang  monastery,  and  tiiat 
consequently  it  will  supply  the  regents  in  future. 

The  new  Begent  was  extremely  kind  to  Hue  and  Gabet. 
The  former  describes  him  as  a  man  of  fifty,  whose  large  features, 
mild  and  remarkably  pallid,  breathed  a  truly  royal  majesty, 
while  his  dark  eyes,  shaded  by  long  lashes,  were  intelligent  and 
gentle.  M.  Hue  gives  a  very  interesting  account  of  his  inter- 
views with  this  great  man.  It  is  clear  that  the  Tibetan 
authorities  were  willing  to  receive  the  strangers  cordially ;  that 
they  were  true  to  the  enlightened  and  tolerant  spirit  of  their 
religion,  and  that  Mr.  Bogle's  impression  of  the  friendly  feeling 
in  his  time  held  good  in  the  succeeding  generation.    But 

>  Hno,  ii  p.  165.  >  The  Shete  Shaffee  of  Edgar ;  aad 

*  Gyalbo    Biting    of    the    Pundit,      Sata  Safadi  of  the  Pundit, 
p.  zziv. 


Intb.] 


TIBETAN  POLITICS. 


xcvii 


Chinese  jealousy  and  exclusiveness  intervenedy  and  it  was 
Eeahen  who  expelled  Hue  and  Oabet  from  Lhasa,  and  sent 
them  back  by  way  of  Szechuen.^ 

When  Bating  Lama  attained  his  majority  there  was  a 
straggle  for  power  between  him  and  Pe-chi,  the  Begent  who 
won  the  hearts  of  Hue  and  Gabet.  At  first  Pe-chi  was  banished ; 
bnt  the  great  body  of  the  lamas  was  in  his  favour,  and 
eventnally  Bating  I^iama  retired  to  Peking,  where  he  died,  and 
Pe-chi  was  installed  as  Gesub  Bimboch^.  He  led  a  national 
party,  and  was  strongly  opposed  to  Chinese  interference. 

During  the  regency  of  Pe-chi  the  influence  of  the  Chinese 
was  at  a  very  low  ebb,  and  if  the  policy  of  Warren  Hastings 
had  been  understood  at  Calcutta,  a  great  step  might  then  have 
been  taken  towards  retrieving  lost  ground.  In  1854  hostilities 
broke  out  with  Nepal,  and  it  is  said  that  the  Tibetan  troops 
repulsed  the  Gorkhas,  taking  several  guns.  The  Gorkhas 
advanced  as  far  as  Sakar-jong,  a  fort  on  the  Sakar-chu,  between 
the  Central  and  Southern  Himalayan  Chains,  a  tributary  of  the 
Amn.^  Bat  in  March,  1856,  a  treaty,  disadvantageous  to  Tibet, 
was  concluded  between  the  Tibetan  and  Nepal  Governments,  in 
which  both  acknowledged  the  suzerainty  of  China.  The  Tibetan 
Government  agreed  to  pay  an  annual  tribate  of  Bs.  10,000 
to  the  Gorkhas ;  another  article  stipulated  for  an  exchange  of 
arms  and  prisoners ;  and  the  Gorkha  Government  was  to  be 
allowed  to  establish  an  agent  and  a  trading  factory  at 
Lhasa.' 

The  Begent  Pe-chi  died  before  1869,  and  was  succeeded  bv 


*  ^  BonyeniiB  d'un  Voyage  dans  la 
Tartorie  le  Tibet  et  la  Ghinei  pendant 
lea  Ann^  1844, 1845,  1846 '  (2  vols., 
1853),  Hnc  et  Gabet. 

'  Le  Christianisme  en  Chine,  en  Tar- 
taric, et  en  Thibet '  (4  vols.). 

My  quotations  are  from  the  English 
translation  (2  vols.,  Srd  edition). 

Sir  John  Davis  wrote  the  article  on 
the  travels  of  Huo  and  Gabet,  in  the 


*  Edinburgh  Review,'  reprinted  in  his 

*  Chinese  Miscellanies  *  (Murray,  1865). 

Colonel  Tule  is  the  author  of  the 
article  on  Hue's  work  in  '  Blackwood's 
Magazine '  for  March,  1852. 

Mr.  H.  T.  Prinsep  reviewed  the 
work  of  M.  Huo  in  his  *  Tibet,  Tartary, 
and  Mongolia '  (2nd  ed.,  Allen,  1852). 

«  G.  T.  8.  Report  for  1871-2. 

»  Aitchison's  *  Treaties,'  ii.  p.  193, 
note. 


zeviii 


THE  DALAI  LAMAS. 


[Ihtb 


the  aged  Abbot  of  Graldan,  who  held  office  until  the  Dalai  Lama 
came  of  age.  The  old  Abbot  died  quite  recently.  The  Dalai 
Lama  then  became  gyalpo  or  king,  as  well  as  pontifiP.  The 
explorer  No.  9  heard,  when  at  Sbigatz6  in  September,  1872, 
that  there  had  been  a  serious  rebellion  at  Lhasa  in  April, 
1871,  during  which  hundreds  of  people  were  killed.*  The  Teshn 
Lama,  the  next  in  succession  to  the  friend  of  Mr.  Bogle,  and 
the  one  who,  as  an  infant,  graciously  received  Captain  Turner, 
became  as  good  and  holy  a  pontiff  as  he  was  in  his  former 
transmigration.  Hue  describes  him'  as  of  a  fine  majestic  frame, 
and  astonishing  vigour  for  his  advanced  age,  which  was  then 
sixty.  His  influence  was  very  great,  not  only  in  Tibet,  but 
throughout  Mongolia,  and  crowds  came  to  worship  him  from 
hi  and  near.  Hue  also  relates  some  curious  prophecies  of  the 
Teshu  Lama.  The  venerable  saint  died  in  1854,  for  when 
Colonel  Montgomerie^s  Pundit  was  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  in  1865, 
another  incamatipn  was  eleven  years  of  age. 

At  present  the  new  Teshu  Lama  must  be  of  age,  and  his 
colleague  the  Dalai  Lama  would  also  be  Gyalpo  or  sovereign ; ' 
but  a  rumour  has  lately  arrived  that  he  is  dead.  It  is  to  be  hoped 


»  G.  T.  S.  Report  for  1871-2. 

'  The  BuoceBsion  of  the  Dalai 

foUows : 

Khproth, 

1.  Ghendoun-djoab-ba  (nephew 

of  Tson-khapa). 

2.  Ghendonn-ghian-dzo. 

3.  Sotnam-ghian-dzo. 

4.  Yondam-ghian-dzo   (a    Mon- 

gol). 

5.  NKawang     Lobdzang-ghian- 

dzo. 

6.  Lobdzang     Galdzong-ghian- 

dzoC?) 
7*  Lobdzang  -  dambaii  -  wangt  - 
siouk-azimbal-ghian-dzo. 


•  Hno,  ii.  p.  157. 
Lamas,  according  to  yarious  anthoritiea,  is  as 


Desgodins, 
1391.  Gue-dim-tchsan. 

1475.  Bu^-dnn-gnia-tso. 
1543.  Bou-nam-guia-tso. 
1588.  Yeun-ten-guia-tso. 

1617.  Ga-ouang-lo-zong- 

guia-too. 
1682.  Tsong-yong-gnia- 

t80(?) 

1708.  Le-tsong-^el-zong- 

gnia-tso. 
1758.  Guiam-pel-gnia- 

tso. 
1805.  Long-tsong-guia- 

tso. 
1815.  Tseal-tchian-guia- 

tso. 
1837.  Kar-djon-guia-tso. 
1856.  {Name  not  knoum,) 


S<Alaffmtweit. 

1388-1473.  Gednn 
Grab. 


Ngagyang      Lob- 
zang  Gyamtso. 


Lobsang  Kalsang. 
Lobsang  GhampaL 


IBTE.]  PRESENT  STATE  OP  NEPAL.  xcix 

that  this  may  be  false  news ;  for  it  seems  to  be  deafly  for  the 
good  both  of  Tibet  and  India  that  the  holy  Buddhisatwas  should 
personally  role,  and  make  the  tolerant  precepts  of  their  creed 
and  their  goodwill  for  all  mankind  prevail  over  the  narrow 
exdusiyeness  of  the  Chinese  political  agents.  It  appears  that 
there  are  now  about  4000  Chinese  troops  in  Tibet,  under  Tong- 
lings,  or  colonels,  and  that  the  Ambas  at  Lhasa  still  arrogate  to 
themselves  the  control  of  traffic  over  the  frontiers. 

This  condndes  our  meagre  knowledge  of  the  recent  history 
of  Great  Tibet ;  and  it  only  remains  to  refer  briefly  to  recent 
events  in  the  hill  countries  leading  from  India  to  Tibet,  and  to 
pass  iuTcview  the  journeys  of  recent  explorers  employed  under 
the  superintendence  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of 
India. 

In  Nepal  there  has  been  no  change  since  the  accession  to 
power  of  Jang  Bahadar,  as  regards  the  opening  of  commercial 
intercourse  between  India  and  Tibet.  The  passes  are  still 
closed  to  Europeans,  who  are  also  excluded  from  all  parts  of 
Nepal  except  the  valley  in  which  Kathmandu  is  situated. 
Nepal  is  still  tributary  to  the  Chinese  Empire,  and  the  restora- 
tion of  the  flourishing  trade  which  existed  in  the  days  of  the 
Newar  dynasty  seems  as  far  off  as  ever.  In  February,  1855,  a 
treaty  was  signed  for  the  surrender  of  heinous  offenders,  and 
the  assistance  afforded  during  the  mutinies  by  Jang  Bahadar 
was  rewarded  by  the  cession  of  the  Oudh  Terai,  in  a  treaty 
dated  November  1,  1860.^  Jong  Bahadar  has  been  created  a 
E.C.B.  and  G.C.S.I.,  but  ruinous  export  and  import  duties  are 
levied  on  his  frontiers,  from  17  to  20  per  cent. ;  a  large  army  is 
kept  up  for  which  there  is  no  use  whatever  in  the  administra- 
tion of  the  country ;  a  policy  of  worse  than  Chinese  exclusive- 
ness  and  obstruction  is  maintained ;  and  Nepal  is,  in  fact,  the 
vassal  not  of  the  British,  but  of  the  Celestial  Empire. 

The  history  of  our  intercourse  with  Bhutan  since  Pem- 
berton's  mission  has  been  one  of  complaints  against  petty  raids 

*  Aitchtfon'fl  *  Treatieg/  ii.  pp.  220  and  223. 

92 


0  EDEN'S  MISSION  TO  BHUTAN.  [Ihtb. 

and  aggressions,  and  controyersies  about  boundaries,  ending 
in  a  small  war.  **  The  whole  history  of  onr  connection  with 
Bhutan/'  says  Dr.  Campbell,^  '^is  a  continuous  record  of  in- 
juries to  our  subjects  all  along  the  frontier  of  250  miles,  of 
denials  of  justice,  and  of  acts  of  insult  to  our  Government."  In 
1839,  the  Bhutanese  carried  off  twelve  British  subjects,  which 
showed  that  Pemberton's  mission  had  had  no  effect  upon  them. 
In  1841  they  seized  five  British  villages,  when  Colonel  Jenkins, 
the  Commissioner  in  Assam,  proposed  the  despatch  of  a  mission, 
but  this  measure  was  not  approved.  The  Assam  duars  were 
then  occupied.'  In  1842,  outrages  were  commenced  on  the  side 
of  the  Bengal  diiars,  and  continued  at  intervals  until  1856. 
Sir  Frederick  Halliday,  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal, 
then  proposed  that  the  districts  of  Ambari  Fala-kottah  and 
Jalpaish,  which  had  been  given  to  Bhutan  in  1784  and  1787, 
but  which  had  formerly  belonged  to  the  province  of  Julpigori, 
should  be  occupied;  but  the  measure  was  prevented  by  the 
mutinies.  Further  outrages  followed;  and  in  1863,  the  Honour- 
able Ashley  Eden  was  appointed  envoy  to  Bhutan,  to  obtain  a 
treaty.  He  was  accompanied  by  Major  Godwin  Austen,  of  the 
Topographical  Survey  Department,  Captain  Lance,  and  Dr. 
Simpson. 

He  time  selected  for  this  mission  was  unfortunate.  Bhutan 
was  in  a  state  of  anarchy  owing  to  a  rebellion.  The  Jungpen  of 
Punakha  had  closed  its  gates  against  the  Deb  Bajab.  The 
Paro  Penlo,  or  Governor  of  Western  Bhutan,  had  taken  part 
with  the  Deb ;  while  the  Tongso  Penlo  took  the  other  side,  and 
besieged  the  Deb  in  Tassisudon,  who  surrendered  and  was  sent 
into  retirement  at  Shiptoka.  At  the  same  time,  the  Paro  Penlo 
and  his  subordinate,  the  Jungpen  of  Dalim-kotta,  were  carrying 
on  a  private  war  on  their  own  account. 

Mr.  Eden's  mission  left  Darjfling  in  1864,  crossed  the  Tista, 

>*  Oriental,' Jan.  1874,  p.  25.  Duming    district;     and    ShnrkoUa, 

*  Seven  in  number,  namely,  Bun      Banska,  Chapaguri,  Chapkahama,  and 
Gnmah  and  EaUing,  bordering  on  the      Bijni,  bordering  on  Eamnip. 


Ihtb.]  the  BHUTAN  WAB.  o| 

and  proceeded  to  Dalim-kotta.  From  this  place  the  route  was 
oyer  quite  new  ground,  by  the  Tulalah  pass,  10,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  where  the  snow  was  deep,  and  then  across  the  Am- 
machu,  the  river  which  rises  near  Fari-jong,  and  flows  through 
the  valley  of  Ghumbi.  Thence  the  mission  proceeded,  by  way 
of  Faro,  to  Punakha,  which  place  was  reached  on  the  18th  of 
March. 

The  Bhutan  Durbar  treated  Mr.  Eden  with  audacious  in- 
solence, asked  for  the  restitution  of  the  Assam  duars,  and 
enforced  their  demands  by  stopping  supplies  of  provisions,  and 
even  by  personal  outrages.  Mr.  Eden  complied  with  the 
demands  under  protest,  and  escaped  by  forced  marches  by 
way  of  Faro.  In  his  report,  dated  July  20,  1864,  Mr.  Eden 
reviewed  the  whole  of  our  political  relations  with  Bhutan  from 
first  to  last,  described  his  route,  and  gave  an  account  of  the 
Grovemment  and  people,  of  whom  he  naturally  formed  a  very 
un&vourable  opinion,  strikingly  in  contrast  with  those  ex- 
pressed by  Mr.  Bogle  and  Captain  Turner  in  the  last  century.^ 

It  became  necessary  to  punish  the  outrage  on  Mr.  Eden's 
mission,  and  this  led  to  a  war  with  Bhutan  during  the  year 

1865.  Hostilities  were  confined  to  the  Diiars.  There  was  a 
reverse  at  Dewangiri,  where  the  Tongso  Fenlo  captured  two 
guns,  but  afterwards  severe  loss  was  inflicted  on  the  enemy  at 
Dewangiri  and  Bala  on  one  side;  while Dalim-kotta,  Chamurchi, 
and  Buxa  were  seized  and  occupied  on  the  other.^    In  January, 

1866,  the  Bhutan  Government  agreed  to  a  treaty  surrendering 
the  document  to  which  Mr.  Eden's  signature  was  placed  under 
protest,  apologizing  for  the  insults,  agreeing  to  give  up  two 
British  guns  which  the  Tongso  Fenlo  had  succeeded  in  eap- 

>  Mr.  Eden's  report  is  printed  first  '  See  <  A  Military  Beport  on  the 

ilk  the  Tolume  of '  Political  Missions  to  Country  of  Bhutan ;  containing  all  the 

Bootan  *  (Calcutta,  1865),  pp.  1  to  137 ;  Information   of   Military    Importance 

with  an  Appendix  containing  the  routes  which  has  heen  collected  up  to  July  1 2, 

known  in  Bhutan.   An  excellent  pr^is  1866/  hy  Lieut.  0.   M.   MacGregor. 

of  Mr.  Eden's  report  is  given  by  Dr.  (Calcutta,  1878.) 
Bennie, '  Bootan,  or  the  Story  of  the 
Dooar  War,'  chapters  iy.,  v.,  and  vi. 


on 


TAWANQ. 


[Ihtb. 


taring  at  Dewangiri,  and  ceding  the  whole  6f  the  eleven  Bengal 
diiars/  as  well  as  the  tract  between  the  rivers  Tista  and 
Jhaldakha.  This  brings  British  territory  into  direct  contact 
with  that  of  Tibet  in  the  Ghumbi  valley.  The  English  Govern- 
ment agreed  to  pay  the  Deb  Bajah  a  yearly  sum  of  Bs.  50,000, 
provided  that  his  conduct  continued  to  be  satisfieu^tory.  These 
arrangements  were  negotiated  by  Colonel  Bruce. 

The  Bhutanese  are,  however,  in  all  probability  incorrigible, 
and,  in  the  opinion  of  Dr.  Campbell,  it  will  in  the  end  be 
necessary  to  annex  their  territory,  in  order  to  secure  the  con- 
tinuance of  peace  and  the  free  passage  of  merchandise.^ 

On  the  eastern  frontier  of  Bhutan  there  is  a  small  State 
occupied  by  a  tribe  called  the  Tawang  Bhuteas,  which  is  inde- 
pendent of  Bhutan,  but  tributary  to  Tibet^  The  Tawang  Bajah 
has  always  been  peaceable  and  friendly;  and  in  1844  he  re- 
linquished all  claim  on  the  Duar  leading  from  his  territory 
into  the  Assam  plain,  in  exchange  for  a  payment  of  500iL  a 
year.  The  Tawang  frontier  lies  between  the  rivers  Deosham 
and  Bowta.  A  very  considerable  trade  is  carried  on  between 
Tibet  and  Assam  through  Tawang,  and  this  may  hereafter 
become  a  route  of  great  importance. 

British  Sikkim,  at  first  under  a  Superintendent,  and  since  1866 
under  a  Deputy  Commissioner,  was,  until  1874,  included  in  the 


(  ^  Namely,  Dalim-kotta,  Mynaguri 
or  Zamii-kotta,  Ohamuichi,  Lakhi, 
Buxa  (Pasaaka),  Bhulka,  Bara,  Gumar, 
Bipu,  Ghiirung,  and  Bagh  or  Ghota 
Bijni. 

*  See  *  Bhutan,  and  the  Story  of  the 
Dooar  War,*  by  Surgeon  Rennie,  MJ>. 
(Murray,  1866).  Also  <  Papers  relating 
to  Bootan ; '  and  '  Further  Papers  re- 
lating to  Bootan,'  presented  to  Parlia- 
ment Feb.  15,  1865,  No.  47;  and 
Feb.  8,  1865,  No.  1 8. 

Dr.  Bennie's  book  is  carefully 
written,  after  much  research,  and  is 
comprehensive.  It  describes  the  geo- 
graphical   position    and     extent     of 


Bhutan,  the  nature  of  the  country, 
and  the  government  and  religion,  as 
weU  as  its  military  resources.  Dr.  Bon- 
nie then  reviews  the  history  of  British 
intercourse  with  Bhutan;  and  in  the 
last  chapters  he  gives  an  account  of  the 
war  in  the  Diiars,  in  1865,  of  which  he 
was  an  eye-witness.  The  experience  of 
the  war  ^owed  that  the  Central  OoTem- 
ment,  consisting  of  Deb  and  Dhai|{ift 
Bajahs,  was  a  mere  fiction,  as  far  as  all 
real  power  ib  concerned;  and  that  in 
future  it  wiU  be  futile  to  negotiate 
with  any  officials  in  Bhutan,  except 
the  Paro  and  Tongso  Penlos,  the  actual 
governors  of  West  and  East  Bkntan. 


Ihtb.]  recent  EXPLORATIOK  in  SIEKIM.  oiU 

Gommissiooership  of  Euch  Bahar,  which  had  existed  sinoe  1788. 
Among  the  CommissionerB,  Mr.  Richard  Ahmuty,  from  1797  to 
1802,  was  a  man  of  great  ability^  and  administered  the  State 
during  the  minority  of  the  Eajah.  Mr.  David  Scott  was  Com- 
missioner from  1816  to  1831,  and  also  joint-magistrate  of 
Bangpur,  and  afterwards  Governor-General's  agent  in  Assam 
and  on  the  north-east  frontier,  retaining  charge  of  Euch  Bahar, 
which,  until  January,  1864,  continued  under  political  charge  of 
the  Commissioners  of  Assam.  It  was  Mr.  Scott  who  sent  the 
mission  to  Bhutan  under  Eishen  Eant  Bose.  In  1866  Euch 
Bahar  was  made  the  nucleus  of  a  new  commissionership,  and 
Colonel  Haughton,  GJB.I.,  was  Commissioner  of  the  Euch  Bahar 
division  from  December,  1866,  to  February,  1873.  This  officer 
has  taken  great  interest  in  the  questions  relating  to  Sikkim  and 
Bhutan,  and  to  the  establishment  of  friendly  intercourse  with 
Tibet;  and  has  collected  much  valuable  information  on  the 
subject. 

Dr.  Campbell  was  succeeded  at  Darjfling,  in  1862,  by  Mr. 
Wake,  V.C. ;  and  in  1866,  Major  B.  W.  D.  Morton,  who  had 
long  served  in  Assam,  atid  had  distinguished  himself  in  sup- 
pressing the  rebellion  in  Jaintea,  was  appointed  Deputy  Com- 
missioner of  British  Sikkim,  under  the  Commissioner  of  Euch 
Bahar.  When  he  went  on  leave,  Mr.  J.  Ware  Edgar,  C.S.I.,  who 
had  written  a  valuable  report  on  the  cultivation  of  tea  in  India, 
was  appointed  to  officiate  during  his  absence. 

Since  the  signature  of  the  treaty  of  1861,  the  relations  with 
Sikkim  have  been  satisfactory ;  and  some  exploring  work  has 
been  done  in  the  direction  of  the  Tibet  passes.  During  the 
autumn  of  1871,  Mr.  W.  T.  Blanford,  of  the  Geological  Survey 
of  India,  accompanied  by  Captain  Elwes,  explored  the  upper 
wUey  of  the  Tlsta,  in  Dr.  Hooker's  footsteps,  their  main  object 
being  to  collect  birds  and  study  the  zoology  of  the  upper 
branches  of  the  Tfsta  valley.  They  reached  the  Donkia  pass; 
ascertained  the  position  of  another  pass,  never  before  laid  down 
on  any  map;  met  with  three  unmapped  lakes,  and  made  a 


oiv  RELATIONS  WITH  SIKRIM.  [Ihtb 

good  collection  of  birds.  Mr,  Blanford  also  explored  the  passes 
leading  into  the  Chumbi  valley.  Since  Dr.  Campbell  and  Dr. 
Hooker  explored  this  region,  in  1849,  only  one  European  had 
penetrated  to  the  Donkia  pass  previous  to  Mr.  Blanford's 
visit.* 

In  June,  1878,  the  Bajah  of  Sikkim,  accompanied  by  his 
brother  and  minister,  Changzed  Babu,  a  man  of  great  natural 
powers  and  predominating  influence  over  his  countrymen, 
entered  British  territory  for  the  first  time,  and  paid  a  visit  to 
Sir  George  Campbell,  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal,  at 
Darjfling.  Sieingputti,  the  Rajah's  sister,  who  was  free  from 
affectation  and  any  ideas  of  seclusion,  and  was  delighted  with 
every  novelty ;  and  a  younger  brother,  called  the  Chota  Bajah, 
were  also  of  the  party. 

Changzed  Babu  is  now  the  leading  man  in  Sikkim,  and  is 
favourable  to  freedom  of  trade,  and  to  the  spread  of  British 
influence.  He  assured  Sir  George  Campbell  that  the  prohibi- 
tion of  trade  with  Tibet  was  solely  due  to  orders  from  Peking, 
and  that  the  Tibetans  would  gladly  facilitate  direct  trade. 
Even  now  there  is  considerable  local  traffic  carried  on  across  the 
passes. 

In  1873,  Mr.  Edgar,  C.S.I.,  proceeded  to  return  the  Sikkim 
Rajah's  visit,  and  was  received  in  a  most  friendly  manner.  He 
also  visited  the  passes,  already  explored  by  Mr.  Blanford,  which 
lead  from  Sikkim  into  Chumbi.  The  most  southerly  of  these 
passes  is  that  of  Jelep-la,  about  50  miles  from  Tumldng,  the 
capital  of  Sikkim,  and  13,000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  two 
next,  to  the  north,  are  those  of  Guatiula  and  Yak-la,  the  latter 
14,000  feet  high.  These  are  rarely  interrupted  by  snow  for 
many  days,  and  form  the  easiest  way  into  the  Chumbi  valley. 
Next,  to  the  north,  is  the  Cho-la  pass,  15,000  feet  high,  which  is 
the  direct  route  from  Tumlung  to  Chumbi.    Then  comes  the 

*  This  was  Captain  Ghamer,  who  *  J.  A.  8.  B.,*  vol.  x.  pari  ii^  p.  S67. 

made  a  rapid  joamey  in  search  of  sport  Bee  also  papers  by  ttDegor  J.  L.  and 

in  the  spring  of  1870.    For  an  account  Captain  W.  8.  SherwiU,  ^  J.  A«  8.  B^' 

of    Mr.    Blanford*B    expedition,    see  xxii.  pp.  540,  611 ;  and  xxxi  p.  457. 


IHTB.]  MB.  EDGAR'S  BEPOBT.  ov 

Tankia-la,  16,083.  feet  high,  the  most  snowy  pass  in  Sikkim, 
difficult  of  access,  and  unsoited  for  traffic. 

Mr.  Edgar  left  DarjOing  on  the  23rd  of  October,  1873,  and 
encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  Jelep-la  pass  on  the  30th,  where  he 
was  met  by  the  Dewan  Changzed,  the  ex-Dewan  Nurugay,^ 
who  had  imprisoned  Dr.  Campbell,  and  was  expelled  by  the 
treaty  of  1861,  and  the  Tibetan  Goyemor  or  Jongpen  of  Pari- 
jong.  Mr.  Edgar  consented  to  receive  the  ex-Dewan  unofficially, 
and  he  supplied  him  with  mnch  valuable  information.  He  has 
great  influence  both  at  Sikkim  and  Lhasa,  but  has  no  recog- 
nized official  position;  and  Mr.  Edgar  thinks  that  much  use 
might  be  made  of  him  in  our  dealings  with  Tibet.  The  Jongpen 
of  Pari-jong  was  a  young  man,  tall  and  stout,  with  a  courteous 
and  dignified  manner,  and  a  pleasant  voice.  He  is  said  to  be 
the  son  of  a  highly-placed  Tibetan  official 

Mr.  Edgar  proposed  that  he  should  be  invited  to  proceed  to 
Ghumbi,  in  order  that  the  Bajah  might  be  saved  the  trouble  of 
meeting  him  on  the  pass.  The  Jongpen  said  that  no  European 
had  ever  visited  Tibet,  to  which  Mr.  Edgar  replied  by  relating  to 
him  the  missions  of  Mr.  Bogle  and  Captain  Turner.  The  Jongpen 
answered  that  the  present  arrangement  had  been  made  by  the 
Chinese  envoy,  Keshan,  about  thirty  years  ago.  This  official,  the 
same  who  expelled  Hue  and  Grabet  from  Lhasa^  arranged  with 
the  Tibetan  authorities  that  direct  management  of  frontier  affairs 
should  be  committed  to  the  Ambas,  or  Chinese  political  agents, 
and  that  there  should  be  no  intercourse  between  Tibet  and 
British  India.  The  Jongpen  explained  this  arrangement,  and 
said  that  all  he  could  do  was  to  obey  orders,  whether  he 
approved  of  them  or  not ;  but  he  offered  to  report  the  matter 
to  bis  immediate  superior,  the  Chechap  Depen  of  Giansu.^ 

Both  the  Dewan  Changzed  and  the  ex-Dewan  strongly  urged 
upon  Mr.  Edgar  the  advisability  of  getting  a  declaration  from 
the  Government  of  Peking  that  the  obstacles  now  put  in  the 
way  of  free  intercourse  are  unauthorized,  which  would  strengthen 

'  Namguay  (?)  '  Edgar  has  Qiantzi, 


oyi  MB.  EDGAR'S  BBPOBT.  [Inn. 

the  hands  of  the  Tibetans.  Mr.  Edgar  also  gathered  that  much 
uneasiness  was  felt  in  Tibet  at  the  threatening  attitude  of  the 
Nepalese,  which  obliged  the  Dalai  Lama  and  his  advisers  to 
make  up  their  disputes  with  the  Ambas,  in  order  to  be  secure 
of  help  from  China. 

Mr.  Edgar  took  the  opportunity  of  fully  explaining  to  the 
Tibetan  officials  the  policy  and  wishes  of  the  British  Groyem- 
ment,  and  that  their  object  was  the  encouragement  of  trade, 
and  the  maintenance  of  strong,  friendly  States  along  our  frontier. 
He  also  appears  to  have  excited  their  fears  by  saying  that  he 
could  not  see  how  bis  Government  could  interfere  between  a 
friendly  State  and  one  that  refuses  to  have  any  relations  with 
us,  his  object  being  to  impress  upon  them  the  advisability  of 
seeking  the  alliance  of  the  British  Government.  The  ex-Dewan 
was  very  anxious  to  obtain  forgiveness  for  his  misconduct 
towards  Dr.  Campbell  and  Dr.  Hooker,  and  promised  to  repeat 
to  the  Tibetan  officials,  and  to  the  Dalai  Lama  himself,  the  ail- 
ments which  Mr.  Edgar  had  used  against  the  policy  of  isolation. 

In  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  November,  1873,  the  Bajah 
himself  arrived,  in  deep  distress,  owing  to  the  hopeless  state  of 
his  sister.  Mr.  Edgar  informed  him  that  the  Gk)vemment  had 
increased  his  pension  to  1200iL  a  year.  Mr.  Edgar  was  much 
touched  by  his  intense  sorrow,  and  urged  him  to  return  at  once 
to  his  poor  sister  at  Chutnbi,  accompanying  him  to  the  head  of 
the  Jelep-la.  The  Jelep-la  and  the  Chumbi  valley  are  localities 
of  very  great  importance,  because  it  is  probable  that  the  first 
great  commercial  road  from  India  to  Tibet  will  take  this  direc- 
tion. The  conference  between  the  English  official  and  the 
Tibetan  Governor  of  Pari-jong,  on  the  Jelep  pass,  is  therefore 
a  very  significant  event;  and  the  important  and  interesting 
report  of  Mr.  Edgar,^  in  which  he  records  the  information 

*  *  Boport  on  a  Visit  to  Sikkim  and  (Calcutta,  1874.)    With  photographa, 

the  Thibetan   Frontier,    in    October,  pp.  103. 

November,  and   December,  1878/  O.  In  the  *  Oalontta  Beview,'  of  Jidy, 

J.    Ware    Edgar,    O.8.I.,    Officiating  1874  (So.  117),  there  is  a  very  able 

Deputy  Commissioner  of  Darjeeling.  article  on  Tibet,  by  Mr.  Wilfred  L. 


INTB.]  MOBAYIAN  MISSION  IK  LAHAUL.  e?ii 

he  collected  respecting  recent  political  events  in  Tibet^  and 
describes  the  pass  and  the  nature  of  the  country  leading  to  it^ 
deserves  very  careiul  attention. 

From  Western  Tibet  it  is  also  probable  that  much  will  be 
done  to  restore  the  old  friendly  intercourse  between  India  and 
the  central  region.  Something  indeed  has  already  been  effected, 
on  the  one  hand,  by  the  Moravian  missionaries  in  Lahaul, 
headed  by  Mr.  Jaschke  and  Mr.  Heyde,  who  have  learned  the 
Tibetan  language,  and  will  be  able  to  convey  intelligence  of  the 
policy  of  the  British  (Government,  through  the  heads  of  Budd- 
hist monasteries  in  Ladak ;  on  the  other  hand,  by  the  explorers, 
who  are  instructed  and  sent  forth  on  long  journeys  of  discovery 
from  the  head-quarters  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of 
India. 

For  upwards  of  a  century  the  attention  of  the  Moravian  mis- 
sionaries has  been  turned  towards  the  Eodmuk  and  Mongol 
tribes,  and  in  1765  a  Moravian  settlement  was  formed  near 
Ozarizin  on  the  Yolga,  affording  opportunities  of  communi- 
cating with  the  nomad  tribes  of  the  steppes.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century  some  slight  progress  was  made 
among  the  Earghis  tribes,  but  the  mission  terminated  in  1821^ 
owing  to  the  interference  of  the  Russian  Government.  Having 
been  refused  permission  to  pass  through  Bussian  territory,  two 
Moravian  missionaries  set  out,  in  1853,  with  the  intention  of 
penetrating  into  Mongolia,  by  way  of  India.  They  were  stopped 
on  the  borders  by  the  Chinese  officials,  and  then  received  orders 
from  Eermhuth  to  settle  down  where  they  best  could  among 
the  Tibetans.  A  place  called  E^aelang,  in  British  Lahaul,  was 
selected,  and  a  few  years  afterwards  the  mission  was  placed  on 


Heeley,  of  the  Bengal  Civil  Semoe.  Tibet  and  India.    Bendes  Ifr.  Edgar's 

It  waa   oiigixially  intended  to  be  a  Report,  Mr.  Heeley  heads  his  article 

reyiew  of  Ifr.  Edgar's  Beport,  but  Ifr.  with  the  *■  Alphabetom  Tibetanum '  of 

Heeley  was  led  away  by  the  interest  of  Giorgi,  and  the  works  of  Turner,  Hno, 

his  subject,  and  it  is  aotuaUy  an  ad*  Koppen,  Bohlagintweit,  Oooper»  and 

mirable  essay  on  the  religion  and  Ids*  Desgodins. 
tory  of  Tibe^  and  on  the  trade  between 


OTUl 


MORAVIAN  MISSION  IN  LAHAUL. 


[IXTTB. 


a  more  regular  footing,  under  Brothers  JaBchke,  fiechler,  and 
Heyde.  In  ISTS,  the  staff  consisted  of  Brothers  Heyde  and 
Bedslob,  with  their  wives  and  twenty  converts.  The  mission 
house  is  10,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  has  fields  and  carefully 
tended  gardens  and  orchards  attached  to  it.^ 

Brother  H*  A.  Jaschke,  after  eleven  years'  residence  in 
Lahaul,  returned  to  Qermany  in  the  end  of  1868.  He  is  the 
highest  authority  in  Europe  on  the  modem  Tibetan  language 
and  its  dialects,  and  is  the  author  of  more  than  one  valuable 
work  on  the  subject.'  The  Moravian  Brethren  will  continue  to 
occupy  their  present  important  station  in  North- Western  India, 
as  a  basis  of  operations,  until  they  are  permitted  to  cross  the 
Chinese  frontier  into  Tibet.  Their  knowledge  of  the  Tibetan 
language,  and  their  intercourse  with  the  Lamas,  will  be  one 
influential  means  of  preparing  the  way  for  future  unrestricted 
intercourse  between  India  and  Tibet. 

Meanwhile  the  efforts  of  our  surve3ring  officers  in  promoting 
the  exploration  of  Tibet  is  another  powerful  means  of  gaining 
the  same  object.  It  is  now  fourteen  years  since  Colonel  Mont- 
gomerie  inaugurated  the  system,  under  Colonel  Walker,  of  com- 
pleting our  geographical  information  respecting  the  unknown 
parts  of  Asia  by  means  of  native  explorers.  These  explorers 
are  very  carefully  selected,  instructed  in  the  use  of  the  compass, 
sextaut,  and  boiling-point  thermometer,  and  in  the  method  of 
working  out  a  route  by  traverse  or  dead  reckoning,  and  then 
despatched  in  various  directions.      By  means  of  this  agency 


>  See  'The  Abode  of  Snow/  by 
Andrew  Wilson,  chapter  xzz.  (Black- 
wood, 1875.)  Dr.  Oleghom  also  yiflited 
the  Lahanl  miaaion.  See  his  '  Report 
upon  the  Forests  of  the  Punjaub  and 
the  Western  Himalayas'  (Boorkee, 
1864),  p.  150. 

s  Mr.  Jaschke  has  written  *  A  Short 
Fzaotioal  Grammar  of  the  Tibetan  Lan- 
guage, with  Beferenoe  to  the  Spoken 
Dialects'  (Kyelang,  1865);  a  Ro- 
manized Tibetan  and  English  Diction- 


ary (Eyelang,  1866);  and  a  Tibetan 
and  G^erman  Dictionary,  jnst  completed. 
These  works  are  all  auto-lithographed. 
In  1866,  he  submitted  to  the  Berlin 
Academy  a  treatise  on  the  phonetic 
laws  of  the  Tibetan  language.  Since 
1878  he  has  been  engaged,  for  the 
India  0£Bioe,  on  a  comprehenaiye 
modem  Tibetan  and  Bnglish  Dic- 
tionary, which  is  now  nearly  ready  for 
the  press. 


iHTft.]         JOURNEY  OP  THE  PITNDIT  OF  1865  TO  LHASA.  cix 

very  important  additions  have  qnite  recently  been  made  to  onr 
knowledge  of  Nepal  and  of  Great  Tibet. 

Colonel  Walker  engaged  two  Pandits  (A  and  B),  who  were 
British  snbjects,  from  one  of  the  upper  valleys  of  the  Himalaya, 
and,  under  Colonel  Montgomerie,  they  were  trained  to  the  use 
of  the  sextant  and  compass.  They  were  then  directed  to  make 
a  route  survey  from  Lake  Mansarowar  to  Lhasa^  a  distance  of 
,  about  800  miles.  They  made  a  first  attempt  to  advance  direct 
from  EumaoUy  but  did  not  find  this  route  practicable.  They, 
however,  met  some  Bisahiris,  British  subjects,  who  had  been 
robbed  whilst  trading  in  Chinese  territory,  near  Gartokh,  and 
who  asked  the  Pundits  to  be  their  vaJcils,  in  order  to  obtain 
redress  from  the  Lhasa  Government.  This  furnished  a  plausible 
reason  for  the  journey,  and  it  was  then  decided  that  the  best 
chance  of  reaching  Lhasa  would  be  through  NepaL  They 
accordingly  set  out,^  and  reached  Kathmandu  on  the  7th  of 
March,  1865. 

The  Pandits  heard  that  the  route  by  the  Eirong  pass  was 
clear  of  snow  earlier  than  that  by  Kuti  (Nilam),  and  they, 
therefore,  selected  that  route,  leaving  Eathmandu  on  the  20th 
of  March ;  but  the  Chinese  Governor  of  Eirong  refased  to  allow 
them  to  pass,  and  they  returned  to  Eathmandu  on  the  10th  of 
April. 

One  of  the  Pundits,  B,  then  gave  up  the  attempt,  and  con- 
tented himself  with  making  a  long  journey  in  the  upper  parts 
of  Western  Nepal,  including  an  examination  of  the  Muktinath 
pass.^  The  other.  A,  set  out,  disguised  as  a  native  of  Ladak, 
as  a  companion  of  a  Tibetan  merchant,  named  Dawa  Nangul, 
on  the  20th  of  June,  and  made  his  way  to  Eirong. 

The  post  of  Eirong  is  very  important  in  connection  with 
the  question  of  intercourse  between  India  and  Tibet.     It  com- 

'  They  had  a  large  sextant,  two  hox  *  No  aocount  has  ever  been  pub- 
sextants,  prismatio  and  pocket  com-  lished  of  the  journey  of  this  Pundit  in 
passes,  pocket   chrcmometer,  boiling-  Western  Nepal,  and  of  his  visit  to  the 
point  thermometers,   and  a  common  Muktinath  pass, 
watch. 


ex  JOURNEY  OF  THB  PUNDIT  OF  1865  TO  LHASA.         [Ihtb. 

mauds  what  is  probably  the  best  of  the  Nepalese  passes.  The 
Pundit  describes  it  as  a  place  with  a  fort,  a  good-sissed  temple, 
about  twenty  shops,  and  a  population  of  3000  to  4000.  Wheat 
and  barley  are  raised  round  the  town,  and  there  is  a  trade  in 
salt  from  Tibet  and  in  rice  from  Nepal. 

The  road  through  Eirong  leads  past  the  important  Chinese 
post  of  Jonka-jong,  on  the  Central  Chain,  which  is  probably  the 
Ari-jong  of  D'Anyille's  map.  But  the  Pundit  was  again  refused 
leave  to  proceed,  and  with  very  great  difficulty  he  eyentually 
got  permission  to  take  another  route,  to  the  westward,  oyer  the 
No-la  pass  of  the  Central  Chain,  16,600  feet  above  the  sea.  His 
route  was  through  forest  on  the  outer  slopes  of  the  Southern 
Chain  as  fieur  as  a  village  called  Lue,  where  the  mountain  sides 
become  bare  and  rocky,  and  then  across  the  Southern  Chaiiu  by 
the  6a-la  pass,  which  is  the  boundary  between  Tibet  and 
Nepal,  and  16,700  feet  high.  The  No-la  pass  was  crossed  next 
day,  so  that  here  the  two  chains  approach  very  closely,  the 
intermediate  plain  sinking  to  14,000  feet. 

On  the  2nd  of  September  the  Pundit  reached  the  banks  of 
the  Tsanpu,  and  crossed  to  the  Tadum  monastery,  on  the  north 
shore,  14,200  feet  above  the  sea.  Here  he  learnt  that  once  in 
two  years  the  Maharajah  of  Kashmir  sent  a  merchant  to  Lhasa 
with  a  great  quantity  of  goods,  who  is  called  '^  Lopcbak ;"  and 
that  once  a  year  the  Government  of  Lhasa  sent  a  merchant, 
called  "Jang  Chongpon,"  to  Ladak.  The  Pundit  joined  the 
Kashmiri  merchant's  head  man,  named  Chiring  Nurpal,  who 
passed  through  Tadum  with  seventy  laden  yaks,  and  they  set 
out  together  for  Lhasa  on  the  3rd  of  October. 

The  party  travelled  along  the  northern  side  of  the  Tsanpu, 
crossing  a  large  tributary  called  the  Chaxta-Tsanpu,  flowing 
from  the  Northern  Chain ;  and  then  passing  over  a  range  into 
the  valley  of  the  Baka-Tsanpu,  a  river  which  has  a  long  course 
parallel  to  the  Tsanpu,  into  which  it  falls  below  Janglach6. 
From  Tadum  to  a  place  called  Balung  there  were  no  signs  of 
cultivation,  and  tlie  population  was  very  scanty ;  but  from  Balung 


IIPPB.]         JOUBNEY  OF  THE  PUNDIT  OP  1865  TO  LHASA.  oxi 

onwards  there  were  clamps  of  willow  trees  and  cultiyated  patches. 
Balung  is  jnst  below  the  Ea*la  pass,  over  a  spur  from  the  range 
between  the  rivers  Baka-Tsanpu  and  Tsanpu,  which  separates 
the  Tsang  province  from  those  of  Western  or  Little  Tibet. 

On  the  22nd  of  October  the  party  crossed  the  Tsanpu  by  a 
ferry,  190  miles  below  Tadum,  and  arrived  at  the  town  of  Jang- 
lach6,  where  there  is  a  strongly-bnilt  fort  on  the  top  of  a  hill, 
a  fine  monastery,  and  a  nnmber  of  shops  kept  by  Nepalese. 
From  Janglache  to  the  town  of  Shigatz^  goods  and  men  are 
transported  on  the  river,  which  is  wide  and  navigable,  in  boats 
covered  with  hides.  Here  they  were  joined  by  the  second  part 
of  the  Kashmiri  merchant's  caravan,  consisting  of  105  laden 
yaks ;  and  on  the  29th  they  reached  Shigatze,^  11,800  feet  above 
the  sea.  At  a  place  called  Phuncholing,  between  Janglache  and 
Shigatz6,  the  river  is  spanned  by  an  iron  chain  bridge. 

On  the  1st  of  November,  1865,  the  Pandit  went  from  Shi- 
gatz6  to  Tesha  Lumbo,  to  do  homage  to  the  Teshn  Lama  or 
Panchen  Bimboch^,'  a  boy  eleven  years  old,  who  was  seated  on 
a  high  throne  covered  with  rich  silk.  The  Pundit  reports  that 
there  are  3300  monks  in  the  monastery  of  Teshu  LamlxH  and 
that  the  town  of  Shigatz^  has  a  population  of  9000,  exclusive  of 
the  monks,  bat  including  a  garrison  of  100  Ohinese  soldiers,  and 
400  Tibetan  militia.  A  market  is  daily  held  on  the  space 
between  Shigatz^  and  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  good  crops  are  raised 
in  the  neighbourhood. 

At  Shigatz^  the  caravan  was  joined  by  the  Kashmiri  mer- 
chant himself ;  and  setting  out  again  on  the  22nd  of  December, 
they  passed  through  Painam,^  and  reached  Giansu  ^  on  the  25tb, 
a  distance  of  46  miles. '^ 

Giansu  was  visited  by  Bogle  and  Turner,  and  Mr.  Manning 
resided  there  for  some  time.    The  Pundit  describes  it  as  a  city 

1  The   Fimdit    caUs    it   Digarclia.  s  Pendjong 

Here  he  took  a  number  of  obeer^atioxiB  *  Gyangze. 

for  latitude.  *  According  to  the  Pundit;  39  ac- 

*  He  caUs  him  the  "  Panjan  Bingbo  cording  to  Tximer. 
Che." 


ciii  JOURNEY  OF  THE  PUNDIT  OF  1865  TO  LHASA.         [Dmt. 

about  the  size  of  Sliigatze,  with  a  fort  on  a  low  hill  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  and  a  large  gilded  temple.  It  is  ruled  by  a  Depon^^ 
assisted  by  two  Jongpens^  and  has  a  garrison  of  fifty  Chinese 
soldiers  and  200  Tibetan  militia.  The  surrounding  plain  pro- 
duces wheat,  barley,  radishes,  peas,  and  ghee,  while  rice  is 
imported  from  Bhutan.  Woollen  cloths  are  manufactured  in 
the  town,  and  also  small  bells  with  which  horses  are  adorned  in 
Tibet. 

From  Giansu  the  Pundit  followed  the  route  taken  by  Mr. 
Manning  to  the  Palti  or  Yamdok-cho  lake,  crossing  a  spur  of 
the  Central  Chain  by  the  pass  of  Ehoro-la,  17,000  feet  above  the 
sea.  He  describes  the  lake  as  45  miles  in  circumference,  2  to 
8  miles  broad,  with  a  hilly  island  in  the  centre,  the  water  very 
deep  and  good  to  drink,  though  the  lake  has  no  outlet.^  He 
found  the  lake  to  be  13,700  feet  above  the  sea. 

On  the  4th  of  January,  1866,  the  Pundit  left  the  shores  of 
this  famous  ring-shaped  lake,  crossed  the  Khamba-la  Mountain 
separating  the  provinces  of  U  and  Tsang,  and  reached  the  left 
bank  of  the  Tsanpu,  at  the  village  of  Khamba-barchi,  where  it 
is  11,400  feet  above  the  sea  level.  Here  the  partyjtook  a  boat, 
and  rowed  down  the  stream  to  Chusul-jong.  Crossing  the  river 
at  Chusul,  they  followed  Mr.  Manning's  route  up  the  valley  of 
the  £i-chu,  and  arrived  at  Lhasa  on  the  10th. 

The  Pundit  describes  the  Lhasa  valley  as  fall  of  large  and 
populous  monasteries.  He  visited  that  of  Sara  (Sera  of  Hue), 
three  miles  from  the  city,  where  there  are  5500  monks,  and  the 
famous  monastery  of  Galdan,  founded  by  Tsong-khapa,  which  is 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  circumference,  and  peopled  by  3300 
monks.  The  city  of  Lhasa  has  a  circumference  of  2^  miles, 
and  in  the  centre  stands  a  large  temple  containing  images 
richly  inlaid  with  gold  and  precious  stones,  and  surrounded  by 
bazaars  with  shops  kept  by  Tibetan,  Kashmiri,  Ladaki,  and  Ne- 
palese  merchants,  many  of  whom  are  Muhammadans.*  Chinese 
tradesmen  are  also  numerous.    The  plain  of  Lhasa  is  about  12 

»  The  Che<^  Depen  of  Edgar.  «  See  note  at  p.  244. 


I»TH.]  THE  PUNDrrS  ACCOUNT  OF  LHASA.  cxiU 

miles  long  by  7  broadband  is. surrounded  by  mountains.  Around 
the  town  are  the  monasteries  of  Muru,  Bamoch^,  Chumuling^ 
Tankyalingy  Eontyaling,  and  the  palace-monastery  of  PotaIa»  the 
residence  of  the  Dalai  Lama,  or  Goor  (Gewan)  Bimboch^  called 
also  the  Lama  Guru.  It  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference, 
and  stands  on  an  eminence  300  feet  above  the  plain.  Four 
miles  west  of  it  is  the  Debang  monastery,  with  7700  monks ; 
and  to  the  south,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Ki-chu,  is  the 
Ghochuling  monastery.^ 

The  Pundit  went  with  the  Kashmiri  merchant  (Lopchak), 
to  pay  his  respects  to  the  Dalai  Lama,  who  was  a  fair  and  hand- 
some boy  about  thirteen  years  old,  seated  on  a  throne  six  feet 
high,  with  the  Gesub  Bimboch^,^  or  Begent  Minister,  on  his 
right  hand.  The  Pundit  relates  the  popular  belief  to  be  that 
the  Dalai  Lama  will  transmigrate  thirteen  times,  and  that  he 
is  now  in  his  thirteenth  transmigration.  But  he  is  only  in  the 
twelfth  according  to  the  list  of  Desgodins.  Below  the  Begent 
there  are  four  ministers,  called  Khalons,^  who  conduct  all  public 
business ;  and  the  Amba,  or  Chinese  political  agent,  has  special, 
but  apparently  undefined  powers.  As  a  rule,  he  does  not  in- 
terfere in  the  iuternal  affairs  of  Tibet  The  Pundit  also  heard 
that  36  miles  east  of  Lhasa,  on  the  north  shore  of  the  Tsanpu, 
there  is  a  town  called  S&we,  where  the  Tibetan  treasury  is  kept ; 
that  40  miles  farther  east  there  is  a  town,  on  the  south  bank, 
called  Shotang,  as  large  as  Shigatz^ ;  that  the  river  flows  thence 
eastward  for  120  miles,  and  then  turns  due  soutL 

The  hills  round  Lhasa'  are  barren,  except  for  one  thorny 

*  According  to  another  authority,  the  principal  Oonpas  or  monasteries  round 
Ijhasa,  with  the  numbers  of  monks  in  each,  are  as  follows : 

Gandan  Monastery  ..  8,500 

Lia                „          ..     ..  5,500 

Depong         „         ..     ..  7,500 

Gentu           „          ..      ..  500 

Grume          „  500 

Chenamg^     „  1,000 

Ghemohung  „         ..  200 

*  Nomen-khan  of  Hue,  ii.  p.  156.    The  Pundit  calls  him  Gyalpo-Khuro-Gyago. 

*  KaskakSf  of  the  Pundit. 

h 


Eontyaling  Monastery  ..  200 

Tankyaling       „     ..  ..  200 

Ghochuling       „     ..  ..  800 

Chumuling       „     ..  ..  1,000 


20,400 


oziT  VIBIT  TO  THOK-JALUNa  GOLD  HIKES.  [bm. 

bush  called  gia,  bnt  there  are  trees  of  two  kinds  in  the  gardens, 
though  not  indigenonsy  called  ehatiffma  and  jawar.  The  crops 
of  the  Lhasa  plains  consist  of  barley,  wheat,  peas,  mustard, 
radishes,  carrots,  onions,  potigitoes,^  beans,  aHid  other  garden 
produce.  There  are  cows,  sheep,  goats,  yaks,  ponies,  asses,  and 
pigs ;  and  fowls,  pigeons,  and  ducks  are  plentiful.  The  manu- 
fisustures  at  Lhasa  are  chiefly  woollen  cloths  and  felt. 

The  population  of  Lhasa,  according  to  a  census  taken  in 
1854,  was  15,000,  and  owing  to  the  number  of  celibates  there 
is  a  large  preponderance  of  women :  9000  women  to  6000 
men.  The  garrison  consists  of  500  Chinese  soldiers,  and 
1000  Tibetans,  armed  with  flint  guns,  and  seven  small  pieces 
of  ordnance. 

The  Pundit  left  Lhasa  on  the  21st  of  April,  1866,  and, 
returning  by  the  same  route,  reached  Tadum  on  the  1st  of  June. 
Journeying  up  the  Tsanpu  valley,  he  crossed  the  Mariam-la 
pass,  and  returned  to  India,  reporting  himself  to  Colonel  Mont- 
gomerie  at  the  head-quarters  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical 
Survey.* 

In  May,  1867,  the  same  Pundit  who  was  at  Lhasa,  A,  with 
a  third  man  who  had  been  trained  in  the  interval,  C,  as  B  had 
proved  to  be  somewhat  wanting  in  nerve,  set  out  to  explore  the 
gold  mines  of  Thok-jalung,  on  the  lofty  plateau  in  rear  of  the 
great  Northern  Range.  After  a  most  trying  journey,  these 
hardy  and  persevering  explorers  crossed  the  Chomorang-la 
pass,  18,760  feet  above  the  sea,  and  after  a  long  n^arch  through 
snow,  reached  the  chief  gold-field,'  on  a  large  desolate  plain, 
16,330  feet  above  the  sea,  where  the  camp  of  the  Tibetan  gold 
diggers  was  pitched.  The  master  of  the  gold  diggings  was  a 
native  of  Lhasa,  a  shrewd  and  well-informed  man.  The  Pundit 
describes  the  method  of  working  the  gold,  and  the  habits  of  the 

'  Probably  due  to  the  benevolent  tiona    of  the  Great  Trigonometrical 

forethought  of  Warren  Hastings,  and  Survey  of   India  during  1866-7.'  by 

introduced    through    Bhutan.      (See  Colonel  J.  T.  Walker,  R.E.,  F.R.8^ 

p.  19,  and  note.)  iz.  pp.  i  tozxiz. 

«  See  '  General  Report  on  the  Opera-  ■  In  32°  24'  26"  N. ;  81°  87'  38"  K. 


Imtb.]  exploration  OF  NO.  9.  ozv 

^gg^ro.  llie  explorers  left  Thok-jalnng  in  August,  and  returned 
to  head-quarters  in  November,  1867.* 

Some  very  important  journeys  were  made  by  an  explorer 
whom  Colonel  Montgomerie  calls  No.  9,  and  whose  results  he 
reported  upon  in  1872.  No.  9  went  up  the  valley  of  the  Tambur, 
in  Eastern  Nepal,  in  the  footsteps  of  Dr.  Hooker,  as  far  as 
the  Wallanchtm  pass,  which  No.  9  calls  Tipta-la;  and  then 
succeeded  in  gaining  permission  to  enter  Tibet  by  his  successful 
medical  treatment  of  the  wife  of  a  chief  ofiScial,  at  Tashirak,  a 
large  standing  camp  on  a  feeder  of  the  Aran,  15,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  He  then  crossed  a  mountain  spur  by  the  Ni-la  pass, 
and  entered  the  district  of  Tinki-jong.  Advancing  southward,  he 
first  came  to  patches  of  cultivation  at  a  place  called  Lamadong, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ehantongiri,  another  tributary  of  the  Arun. 
Crossing  over  another  spur,  by  the  pass  of  Tinki-la,  he  reached 
the  banks  of  the  Ghomto-dong  lake,  20  miles  long  by  16  miles 
wide,  and  14,700  feet  above  the  sea.  He  then  crossed  the 
Central  Bange  by  the  Lagulung-la  pass,  16,200  feet  above  the 
sea,  with  glacier  ice  dose  down  to  it,  which  forms  the  boundary 
between  Sikkim  and  Tibet.  The  explorer  journeyed  thence  to 
Shigatze,  and  duly  paid  his  respects  to  the  Teshu  Lama. 

No.  9  returned  by  the  Sakia  monastery  of  the  Bed  Cap 
sect,  crossed  the  Central  Chain  by  the  Dong-la  pass,  on  the  3rd 
of  October,  1871,  and  proceeded,  by  Sakar-jong,  Tingri,  and 
Nilam,  to  the  gorge  of  the  Bhotia  Eosi  into  Nepal.  Nilam,  or 
Knti,  is  the  last  Tibetan  town  in  this  direction,  and  the  pass 
thence  into  Nepal,  according  to  the  account  given  by  No.  9,  is 
one  of  the  most  dangerous  in  the  whole  Him&layan  range.' 

In  1871,  Colonel  Montgomerie  organized  a  party  to  explore 
some  portion  of  the  unknown  region  north  of  the  Tibetan  water* 
shed  of  the  Upper  Brahmaputra,  or  Tsanpu,  led  by  a  young 

*  *  Cteneral  Report  on  the  Operations  '  See  note  at  p.  155.  '  General  Re- 
of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  port  on  the  Operations  of  the  Great 
India,  1867-^/  by  Lient.-Colonel  J.  T.  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India  during 
WaUter,  R.R,  F.R.S.,  xi.  pp.  i  to  x.  1871-2/  by  Major  T.  G.  Montgomerie, 

K.£.,  F.R.S. 

h  2 


czTi  EXPLORATION  OF  LAKE  TENGBI-NOB.  (Thtb. 

semi-Tibetan,  who  is  neither  distingoisbed  by  name  nor  nnmber, 
so  we  will  call  him  D.  He  had  with  him  four  assistants  from 
the  border  districts.  Crossing  the  Mariam-la,  they  arrived  at 
Shigatze  on  the  24th  of  November,  where  D  prepared  for  a 
journey  across  the  great  Northern  Chain  to  the  unvisited  lake  of 
Tengri-nor,  which  was  only  known  from  the  Lama's  survey 
of  1716.  Sheep  were  the  only  animals  that  could  stand  the 
journey,  as  the  road  was  too  stony  for  yaks  and  the  cUmate  too 
cold  for  donkeys.  D  therefore  purchased  fifty  sheep  to  carry 
the  baggage,  and,  setting  out  on  the  6th  of  December,  the 
party  crossed  the  Tsanpu,  and  travelled  up  the  valley  of  the 
Shiang-chu,  in  the  footsteps  of  Mr.  Bogle.^  The  villages 
the  explorers  passed  through  were  Feting,  on  the  Tsanpu ;  Chua 
Dongdot-la,  and  Chom ;  and  on  the  14th  they  reached  Namling, 
the  Chamnamring  of  Mr.  Bogle/  where  there  are  a  monastery 
with  five  hundred  monks,  a  fort,  and  about  two  hundred  houses 
surrounded  by  gardens,  with  an  iron  bridge  over  the  river.  This 
route  is  frequented  by  traders  in  salt  and  borax. 

Following  up  the  valley  they  next  came  to  Eholam,  and 
then  to  Gonkiang,  where  there  is  a  monastery.  On  the  20th 
they  halted  at  another  monastery,  called  Babdan  Chuling  Groups, 
the  residence  of  a  high  Lama,  called  the  Shaptung  Bimboch^, 
who  was  said  to  be  about  a  hundred  years  old,  and  who  had 
built  the  monastery  eighty  years  before.  Beyond  this  point 
the  cold  became  very  intense ;  and  at  the  village  of  Gunje  the 
explorers  were  told  that  white  bears,  called  ttk^dumhay  abound, 
which  commit  great  havoc  amongst  the  cattle.  They  next 
came  to  some  very  remarkable  hot  springs  and  geysers  in  the 
mountains;^  and  on  the  8th  of  January,  1872,  they  crossed  the 
Ehalambapla  pass  over  the  great  Northern  Bange,  in  a  heavy 
snowstorm,  which  is  17,200  feet  above  the  sea.  On  the  other 
side  they  came  to  an  encampment  of  Dokpa  -shepherds,  and 
a  little  farther  on  the  first  view  was  obtained  of  the  great 
Tengri-nor  lake,  called  on  the  spot  Jang-Namcho  *  Chidmo, 

>  See  p.  80.    *  See  p.  80.     >  See  note  at  p.  182.    *  Nam^  sky;  and  cko^  lake. 


IKTB.]  THE  TENTGBI-NOB  LAKE.  cxvii 

and  they  orossed  the  large  river  Ghaika-chn,  flowing  into  it 
from  the  west.  They  reached  the  monastery,  on  the  banks  of 
the  lake,  called  Dorkia-lnga-dong,^  whence  there  is  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  wide  expanse  of  water.  D  resolved  to  execute  a 
complete  surrey  of  the  lake,  making  this  monastery  his  head* 
quarters ;  bnt  there  were  constant  heavy  falls  of  snow,  which 
impeded  his  work.  The  principal  peak  in  this  part  of  the 
Northern  Bange  is  called  Ninjinthangla,  25,000  feet  high,  and 
the  lamas  say  it  is  a  god  surrounded  by  three  hundred  and  sixty 
smaller  snowy  peaks  as  its  servants.  The  range  was  traced  for 
150  miles,  running  in  a  north-easterly  direction. 

The  lake  is  quite  frozen  over  in  November,  though  the 
water  is  too  salt  to  be  used  for  drinking.  The  level  is  15,200  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  60  miles  long  by  from  16  to  25  miles  broad, 
and  has  some  large  islands.  To  the  north  there  is  another 
smaller  lake,  called  Bul-cho,  about  6  miles  long  by  5  miles 
wide,  whence  a  kind  of  borax  is  obtained. 

On  their  return,  D  and  his  competnions  were  attacked  by 
robbers,  and  stripped  of  nearly  all  they  possessed,  with  difficulty 
making  their  way  round  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  and  across 
the  Central  Chain,  by  the  Damniargan-la  pass,  to  Lhasa.  On 
the  2nd  of  March  the  weary  travellers  arrived  at  the  Jang- 
talung  monastery,  where  there  are  a  thousand  monks ;  and  on 
the  9th  they  reached  Lhasa ;  whence,  after  a  long  and  difficult 
return  journey,  they  made  their  way  to  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Oreat  Trigonometrical  Survey  in  safety.* 

A  second  explorer,  whose  journey  is  described  in  the  same 
report,  made  his  way  through  the  upper  part  of  Western  Nepal, 
from  Kumaon,  across  the  Kali  and  Eamali,  to  Muktinath,  and 
then,  by  Mantang,  over  the  Photu-la  pass  of  the  Central  Chain, 
15,080  feet  above  the  sea,  to  Tadum,  in  Tibet. 

Another  most  important  exploring  achievement  has  been 

1  Dor,  a  rock;  Ivgu,  a  aheep;  and      of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of 
dong,  face.  India  during  1873-4/  by  Colonel  J.  T. 

'  'General  Beporton  the  Operations      Walker,  B.E.,  FJt.8.,  pp.  i  to  z. 


exTiii  TBADE  OF  TIBET.  [Ixtb. 

done  by  a  Pundit  this  year,  the  full  account  of  which  has  not 
yet  reached  Eugland.  He  was  detached  from  Mr.  Forsyth's 
mission  at  Yarkand ;  made  his  way  across  the  lofty  unknown 
plateau  of  the  inland  lakes,  and  oyer  the. Northern  Chain  to 
Lhasa ;  went  some  distance  farther  down  the  Tsanpn  than  any 
of  his  predecessors,  and  finally  reached  Assam  by  the  Tawang 
route,  east  of  Bhutan,  which,  though  unknown  to  us,  appears  to 
be  much  frequented  by  Tibetans,  and  may  hereafter  become,  a 
great  commercial  highway.  The  report  of  this  Pundit  will  be 
extremely  interesting  and  important. 

The  training  and  despatch  of  these  natiye  explorers  have 
added  very  materially  to  our  knowledge,  not  only  of  the 
geography,  but  also  of  the  condition  of  the  people,  and  the 
state  of  trade  in  Nepal  and  Tibet.  Colonel  Walker  and 
Colonel  Montgomerie  have  rendered  most  important  serrice 
in  having  conceived  and  ably  carried  out  so  useful  a  project ; 
and  the  Pundits  themselves  deserve  the  highest  praise  for  their 
painstaking  accuracy,  perseverance,  and  gallant  adventurous 
spirit 

Pundit  A  has  given  us  an  excellent  sketch  of  the  commerce 
of  Tibet,  which,  combined  with  the  valuable  chapter  ^  on  trade 
in  the  work  of  the  Abb^  Desgodins,  enables  us  to  acquire  a 
clear  idea  of  its  character,  and  of  the  extent  of  the  mercantile 
operations  that  have  Lhasa  and  Shigatze  as  their  centres. 

The  Pundit  says  that  traders  bring  their  merchandise  to 
Lhasa  in  December  from  far  and  near :  from  China  and  Men* 
golia,  Eam  and  Szechuen,  up  the  passes  from  Bhutan  and 
Sikkim  and  Nepal,  and  from  Kashmir  and  Ladak.^  From 
China  come  silks  of  all  varieties,  carpets,  and  hardware ;  from 
Mongolia  come  leather,  saddlery,  sheep,  and  horses;  from  Eam 

*  Chap.  yH  p.  278.  Shokang  or  Miscal.  There  is  alao  a  large 

'  The  cnrrent  coin  is  a  eilyer  piece  lump  of  silver  bearing  the  seal  of  the 

called  Naktangy  2}  being  equal  to  a  Emperor  of  China,  worth  333  iVaA^ii^j, 

rupee.      The  silver  pieces  are  cut  into  called  JDojah  or  JSuras.  Desgodins  says 

halves,  called  Chikyahs ;  or  thirds,  Ka-  that  there  are  many  Indian  rupees  in 

rima.   Two  thirds  of  a  Naktang  is  called  the  country.  (See  also  p.  129  and  note.) 


Ism]  TRADE  OF  TIBET.  ozix 

comes  much  perfume ;  from  Szechuen,  tea ;  from  Tawang^  Bhutan, 
and  Sikkim,  rice  and  tobacco;  from  Nepal,  broadcloth,  silk, 
indigo,  coral,  pearls,  sugar,  spices,  and  Indian  manufactures; 
from  Ladak  and  Kashmir,  saffron  and  Indian  commodities. 

English  woollen  cloths  are  much  prized;  and  the  Ahh6  Des- 
godins  saw  a  vast  number  of  bales  of  cloth,  marked  **  Halifax," 
on  their  way  to  Pa-mou-tang,^  a  place  S.W.  of  Bhatang.  The 
Tibetans  are  used  to  the  sizes  of  English  cloth,  the  price  being 
20  to  40  francs  a  square  piece  of  the  whole  breadth.  Scarlet  is 
the  favourite  colour,  and  a  good  yellow  would  fetch  a  high 
price.    Flowered  calicoes  are  also  much  used  for  lining  walls. 

Brick  tea,  for  Tibet,  is  made  mostly  in  Szechuen  from  a 
hedgerow  tree,  15  feet  high,  with  large  coarse  leaves.  The 
packet  of  four  bricks  of  5  French  lb.  each  (25  centimetres 
long)  is  bought  for  8  francs  where  it  is  grown,  and  sells  at 
Lhasa  at  from  30  to  35  francs.  The  annual  supply  for  Tibet  is 
6,000,000  French  lb.,  worth  about  2,400,000  francs.^ 

The  merchants  who  come  in  December,  leave  in  March, 
before  the  rivers  become  flooded.  Silver  and  gold  are  the 
most  important  articles  of  export ;  then  follow  salt,  wool,  woollen 
manufactures,  furs,  drugs,  and  musk.  The  people  in  the  direction 
of  Szechuen  are  clothed  in  Tibetan  blankets,  which  are  also  much 
worn  in  Sikkim  and  Nepal.  There  is  a  great  demand  for  musk 
in  China ;  and  Szechuen,  Yunnan,  all  the  wild  tribes  north  of 
Burma,  Nepal,  Sikkim,  and  Bhutan  are  supplied  with  salt  from 
Tibet.  By  the  Nepal  and  Ladak  routes,  Tibet  exports  large 
quantities  of  yaks'  tails,  borax,  gold,  silver,  and  ponies. 

In  Assam,  the  centres  of  Tibetan  trade  are  at  Dewangiri, 
and  at  Udelgiri,  where  there  is  a  great  fair  twice  a  year  in  con- 
nection with  the  Tawang  route.  Darjfling  is  the  central  mart 
for  the  Chumbi  valley  trade ;  Patna,  for  that  passing  through 
Nepal;  and  Kashmir,  for  the  long  route  by  the  Mariam-la 
pass. 

The  great  and  inexhaustible  staple  of  Tibet  is  its  wool,  which 

1  Desgodins,  p.  308.  *  Desgodins,  p.  299. 


ezz  TRADE  OF  TIBET.  {Iktb. 

can  be  produced  on  its  vast  plains  and  mountain  slopes  in  any 
quantity  and  of  the  finest  quality.  Mr.  Edgar  believes  that  if 
a  good  frontier  road  were  opened  through  Sikkim,  from  the 
Jelep-la  pass  into  Chumbi  to  Darjiling,  large  quantities  of  cows 
and  sheep,  ffhi,  and  wool,  the  real  wealth  of  Tibet^  would  find 
their  way  into  India.  But  this  would  only  be  a  small  beginning. 
For  the  real  development  of  its  vast  resources,  Tibet  must  have 
the  same  advantages  as  are  enjoyed  by  the  9%erra  of  Peru,  a 
country  which  it  resembles  in  so  many  respects.^  It  is  essential 
for  he" growth  in  prosperity  that  all  the  p^es  into  India  should 
be  freely  opened  to  her  commerce.  This  is  a  necessity  when 
the  staple  of  a  mountain  plateau  is  live  stock.  In  Pern,  the 
droves  of  llamas  are  brought  down  with  produce  for  the  markets 
by  numerous  passes,  because  there  must  be  a  vast  area  of 
pasturage  by  the  way.    There  is  the  same  need  for  Tibet 

The  great  future  measure  which  may  hereafter  reward  the 
adoption  of  a  broadly  conceived  and  continuous  policy  will  be 
the  establishment  of  unfettered  intercourse  through  all  the 
Himalayan  passes  from  the  Eali  to  the  Dihong.  And  the  first 
essential  for  the  initiation  of  such  a  policy  is  a  comprehension  of 
the  physical  and  political  geography  of  the  region,  and  a 
thorough  knowledge  of  its  history.  If  this  is  conceded,  it  will 
follow  that  the  publication,  for  the  first  time,  of  a  full  account 
of  Mr.  Bogle's  mission  to  the  Teshu  Lama,  and  of  Mr.  Manning's 
journey  to  Lhascf,  will  usefully  fill  up  two  gaps  in  a  history 
which  would  otherwise  be  incomplete. 

Moreover,  the  study  of  Bogle's  negotiation  with  the  Lama  is 
specially  important.  For  the  great  statesman  who  despatched 
the  mission  reached  a  point  in  his  policy,  as  regards  the  main- 
tenance of  friendly  intercourse  with  Tibet^  which  was  afterwards 

^  1  Both  are  lofty  table-lancU,  from  arereligioii8,peaoeAil,andiiuliiBtrioiiB; 

9000  to  12,000  feet  above   the  sea,  and  the  Buddhistio  Lamas,  in  their 

intersected  by  mountain  ranges.    The  moral  code  and  system  of  goveniment, 

wealth  of  both  consists  in  wool  and  the  have  much  in  common  with  the  Yncaa, 

pKoions  metals ;   in  both  the  people  the  priest-kings  of  Peru. 


Iktb.]  policy  of  WABREN  HASTINGS.  oxxi 

lost  aod  has  never  been  regained.  It  will  be  useful  to  examine 
the  curiously  close  points  of  resemblance,  as  regards  Tibet, 
between  ihe  period  when  Warren  Hastings  was  at  the  helm  and 
the  present  time.  Then,  as  now,  the  Tibetans  were  most 
friendly  and  cordial,  from  the  sacred  Lama  of  Teshu  Lumbo 
downwards.  Then,  as  now,  all  obstruction  came  from  the 
Chinese  agents.  Then,  as  now,  the  chief  dread  of  the  Tibetans 
was  the  aggressiye  policy  of  the  warlike  Gorkha  Bajahs.  The 
Lama  made  constant  complaints  of  Nepalese  misconduct  to 
Mr.  Bogle.  A  century  afterwards,  when  Mr.  Edgar  met  a 
Tibetan  ofiElcial  on  the  Jelep-la,  the  conversation  about  the 
Grorkha  bugbear  may  be  said  to  have  been  renewed  in  1873  just 
where  it  was  broken  off  in  1775. 

Warren  Hastings  applied  himself  to  the  adoption  of  the 
wisest  measures  for  solving  these  questions.  As  regards  the 
first,  he  maintained  continuous  interchanges  of  good  ofiSces  by 
correspondence,  and  by  despatching  missions  under  Bogle, 
Hamilton,  Turner,  and  Pumngir  Gosain.  As  regards  the  second, 
Mr.  Bogle  early  saw  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  bring  influ* 
ence  to  bear  directly  on  the  Government  at  Peking.  He 
succeeded  in  inducing  the  Teshu  Lama  to  exert  such  influ* 
ence  with  the  Emperor;  while  Mr.  Bogle  himself  intended, 
with  the  sanction  of  the  Governor-General,  to  have  proceeded 
to  Peking. 

It  may  be  gathered  from  a  perusal  of  Mr.  Edgar's  report 
that  his  instructions,  when  employed  to  meet  the  Sikkim  Rajah 
and  Tibetan  ofScials,  were  conceived  in  the  spirit  of  that 
enlightened  policy  which  was  adopted  with  such  success  by 
Warren  Hastings.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  a  conciliatory 
but  firm  and  persistent  series  of  representations  at  Peking 
would  lead  to  the  removal  of  Chinese  obstructions,  and  to  the 
reception  of  English  envoys,  as  in  times  past,  by  the  sacred 
Lamas.  The  latter  point  may  be  insisted  upon,  because  it  has 
already  been  conceded  to  Russia.     For  some  time  there  has 


exxu  SPEGITLATIONS  AS  TO  THE  FUTUBE.  [Imtb. 

been  a  reeident  Russian  Consul  at  Urga^  near  the  Court  of  the 
Taranath  Lama.^  England  has  a  right  to  the  same  privil^e,  as 
regards  the  Teshu  or  Dalai  Lamas.  But  so  much  is  not  needed 
at  present ;  though  a  smaller  ooncession,  namely,  the  occasional 
reception  of  a  friendly  mission  at  Lhasa  and  8higatz6  may  be 
demanded  as  a  right.^ 

The  danger  from  Gt>rkhali  aggression  is  more  serious  and 
more  difficult  to  deal  with.  This  danger  has  been  a  cause  of 
alarm  to  the  peaceful  Tibetans  oyer  since  the  deplorable  over- 
throw of  the  Newar  dynasty  of  Nepal,  more  than  a  century  ago. 
The  warlike  state  founded  by  Prithi  Narayan  is  still  a  source 
of  alarm.  Jang  Bahadar  has  long  been  minister,  and  has  kept 
the  peace  with  England,  but  not  with  Tibet.  He  has  not,  how- 
ever, been  so  long  in  power  as  was  his  relation,  old  Bbim  Sen 
Thappa,  whose  fall  was  sudden  and  violent.  He  has  been 
equally  obstructiye,  equally  an  enemy  to  free  trade  and  civi- 
lizing progress. 

If  the  Tibetan  G-ovemment  could  be  made  to  understand 
that^  in  exchange  for  active  co-operation  in  the  removal  of 
Chinese  obstruction,  the  whole  influence  and  power  of  the 
Government  of  Lidia  would  be  exerted  to  check  aggressiTe 
designs  on  the  part  of  the  dreaded  Gorkhas,  there  is  every 
reason  to  believe  that  such  co-operation  would  be  heartily 
given. 

The  first  step  towards  the  achievement  of  objects  so  fraught 
with  good,  both  for  Tibet  and  India,  will  doubtless  be  in  the 
direction  of  the  Chumbi  valley,  a  step  for  which  Sir  George 
Campbell  and  Mr.  Edgar  have  been  diligently  preparing.    We 

'  See  page  zliz.  sian  esoort.    M.  Bhishmaroff  was  the 

'  The  first  resident  Russian  Consul  first  Consul  at  Urga,  and  in  1868  he 

at  Urga  was  ai^nted  under  the  pro-  made  a  rapid  journey  of  thirteen  days 

Tisions  of  a  Supplementary  Treaty  ne-  from  Urga  to  Uliasutai,  to  oonclude  a 

gotiated   at    Peking   by  Ignatief  on  trade   convention   with   the    Chinese 

a    ^.        ^        ,««/*        J       x-ii  J     X      Ambe,    See,  for  the  provisionB  of  the 
_    Norember,   1860.  and    ratified   at      ^^^^  ^^  ^^^^ ,  ^^^  Russians  on  the 

St.    Pctersburgh    in   January,    1861.      Amur/  by  E.  6.  Raveustein  (TrQbner, 
The  Consul  is  entitled  also  to  a  Rua-      1861),  p.  182. 


IHTB.]  GONGLTOION.  iscuii 

may  hope  tliat  before  long  a  good  road  will  be  made  from  the 
central  mart  at  Darjiling  to  the  Jelep-la  pass,  which  will  be 
contemporaneous  with  an  exploration  of  the  Chumbi  yalley, 
and  with  a  visit  of  English  o£Scers  to  Pari-jong.  The  second 
step  will  be  a  mission  to  Lhasa  and  Shigatz^,  to  renew  friendly 
intercourse  with  the  Lamas,  and  place  the  arrangements  with 
regard  to  trade  on  a  satisfactory  footing.  But  no  progress  can 
be  made  until  negotiations  have  been  opened  at  Peking,  to 
secure  for  the  English  Government  the  same  privilege,  as 
regards  the  Teshu  Lama  (in  accordance  with  the  ''most  friendly 
nation  "  clause),  as  Bussia  has  acquired  at  Urga,  as  regards  the 
Taranath  Lama. 

It  is  believed  that  the  present  volume,  by  fiUing  up  two 
wide  gaps  in  the  history  of  intercourse  between  India  and  Tibet, 
will  be  useful  to  those  who  are  officially  entrusted  with  the 
conduct  of  these  grave  and  important  measures.  It  is  also 
hoped  that  it  may  help  to  enable  a  large  circle  of  readers, 
"who  are  interested  in  the  welfare  and  progress  of  India,  to  form 
a  sound  judgment  on  momentous  questions  which  may  not  im- 
probably be  under  discussion  in  the  near  future. 


ezziT  EARLT  HAPS,  INCLUDING  TIBET.  [Imtr. 


NOTE 

ON   THB 


MAPS  OF  TIBET.  NEPAL,  SIKKIM,  AND  BHUTAN. 


I  PROPOSE  in  this  Dote  to  give  an  accoant  of  the  principal  maps 
that  exist  of  the  above  coantries,  and  to  enumerate  all  that  are 
in  the  collection  of  the  Geographical  Department  of  the  India 
Office. 

The  early  Dutch  compilers  of  maps,  Ortelius,  Mercator, 
HondiuSy  and  Plancius  had  no  information  to  enable  them  to 
insert  any  details  of  interest  relating  to  Tibet  But  with  the 
rise  of  the  French  geographers,  began  the  arriyal  of  the  news 
from  the  Jesuit  missionaries. 

Nicolas  Sanson,  the  pioneer  of  geography  in  France,  was 
bom  at  Abbeville  in  1600,  and  died  in  1667 ;  his  son  Guillaume 
surviyed  until  1733,  and  Adrian  died  in  1718.  The  Sansons 
represent  the  transition  from  the  crude  ideas  of  the  middle  ages 
to  the  more  precise  notions  represented  by  Delisle  and  D'Anville. 
They  published  atlases,  which  were  reproduced  at  Amsterdam 
from  1690  to  1696,  and  several  contained  details  respecting 
Central  Asia. 

But  Guillaume  Delisie,  the  principal  creator  of  the  modem 
system  of  geography,  was  the  first  to  publish  a  map  of  Tibet. 
He  was  born  at  Paris  in  1675,  and  in  1700  he  produced  his  noap 
of  the  continents  of  the  old  world,  continuing  to  bring  out 
maps  of  various  countries  up  to  the  time  of  his  death  in  1726. 
His  map  of  Central  Asia  of  1706^  contains  many  details,  pub- 

*  '  Carte  des  Inde  et  de  la  Chine,  dreaa^  eur  plusieurs  relations  partionli^res 
rectifiees  par  quelques  observationes/  par  GuiUaume  De  L'lde. 


Intb.]  DELISLE  and  D^ANVILLE.  ozx¥ 

lished  for  the  first  time,  which  mast  have  been  obtained  from 
the  Jesuit  missionaries.  Here  appears  '^  Le  Boyaume  de 
XJtsang/*  '*  Lassa  ou  Baratola,"  '^  Zekatche/'  **  Tassoo  Loomboo/' 
^  Gouti  "  (Euti) ;  and  the  Himalaya  mountains  are  called  '^  M.  de 
Purbe  tou  de  Nangracnt/'  ^  "  Tassoo  Loomboo  "  is  omitted  in 
the  edition  of  1720.  Delisle  obtained  much  information,  but  he 
had  no  precise  knowledge  respecting  relative  positions,  so  that 
his  map  is  very  confused.  For  instance,  Thibet  and  Utsang  are 
inserted  at  a  distance  from  each  other,  as  if  they  were  different 
places.  This  blunder  has  been  repeated  on  very  recent  maps  in 
Germany ;  and  there  is  evidence  of  confused  ideas  in  Spruner's 
Historical  Atlas. 

Several  English  map  makers  used  the  materials  of  Delisle, 
two  of  which  are  referred  to  at  p.  cxli. 

It  was  Jean  Baptiste  Bourguignon  D*Anville,  however,  who 
produced  the  first  map  of  Tibet  with  any  pretension  to  accu- 
racy. D'Anyille  was  bom  at  Paris  in  1697,  and  died  in  1782. 
His  maps  of  China,  including  Tibet,  based  on  the  surveys  of  the 
Jesuits  and  the  Lamas,^  were  published  in  the  work  of  Du 
Halde,^  and  at  the  Hag^e  in  1737.^  A  part  of  his  general  map 
of  Tibet  is  reproduced  in  the  present  volume  in  foe  rimile.  It  is 
still  the  basis  of  our  knowledge  of  Tibet,  and  has  been  but 
slightly  altered  or  modified  up  to  the  present  time.  The  maps 
of  Tibet  by  D'Anville  are  specially  interesting,  because  a  set  of 
them,  which  has  been  preserved,  were  the  companions  of  Mr. 
Bogle  during  his  mission  to  the  Teshu  Lama. 

After  the  death  of  D'Anville,  Englishmen  began  to  take  the 
lead  as  geographers  and  map  makers.  Major  Bennell,  the 
father  of  Indian  geography,  returned  to  England  in  the  year 
that  D'Anville  died,  and  published  his  atlas  of  Bengal.    In  Ids 

*  Mr.  Bogle  uses  the  same  word.      M.  D'Anyille,  Geographic  Ordinaire  de 
(Bee  p.  15.)  sa    Majesty    Ohretienne   (La    Haye, 

*  See  Introduction,  p.  Izi.  1787);  Ko.  82,  <  Carte  G^^rale  dti 
'  Bee  p.  Ixiv,  note.  Thibet  et  9  feniUes  particuli^reB  du 
«  '  Nonvelle  Atlas  de  la  Ghine,^  de      Thibet.' 

la  Tartarie  Chinoifle,  et  du  Thibet,'  par 


ozzn  ORAWrOBD.    AARON  ABBOWSMTTH.  [Iim. 

memoir  he  discossed  the  qnestion  of  the  course  of  the  Brahma- 
putra,  and  the  positions  of  Tassisadon  and  Lhasa,  but  he  was 
unable  to  add  much  to  the  map  of  D'Anville  as  regards  Tibet. 

After  Bennell's  time  there  succeeded  a  period  when  ex- 
plorers were  at  work  in  the  field  collecting  materials  for  the  map 
makers.  Turner  prepared  a  map  of  his  route  through  Bhutan 
into  Tibety  which  was  published  in  1800  in  his  book,  and  a 
great  deal  of  information  was  collected  in  NepaL 

In  the  Geographical  Department  of  the  India  Office  there  is 
a  manuscript  map  of  part  of  Nepal  drawn  in  1793,  and  showing 
Colonel  Kirkpatrick's  routes  (4'  to  an  inch) ;  and  a  manuscript 
**  Memoir  for  Illustrating  a  Geographical  Sketch  of  Nepal  and 
the  adjacent  Countries/'  by  Captain  William  Eirkpatrick  (400 
poffea  foolscap).  On  these  materials  the  map  in  Kirkpatrick's 
work  on  Nepal  is  based. 

Major  Crawford  also  contributed  much  geographical  infor- 
mation at  the  same  time.  We  have  from  him  an  elaborate 
manuscript  map  of  the  valley  of  Nepal  (f  to  an  inch) ;  a  manu- 
script map  of  the  route  to  Nepal,  including  the  yalley ;  a  map 
of  the  Nepal  territories,  and  other  portions  of  the  BLimalaya 
mountains,  in  manuscript,  with  the  sources  of  the  Granges  de- 
lineated from  the  reports  of  pilgrims ;  and  a  manuscript  map  of 
the  Nepal  territories,  on  a  scale  of  7^  miles  to  an  inch,  dated 
1811,  with  many  snowy  peaks  laid  down. 

It  was  from  these  materials  that  Aaron  Arrowsmith  com- 
piled this  portion  of  his  ^^Map  of  India  from  all  the  latest  and 
most  authentic  materials,  1816."  He  copies  Tibet  from 
D'AnyiUe,  adding  Turner's  route,  while  his  Nepal  is  derived 
from  Major  Crawford's  observations  and  compilations. 

The  Nepal  war  of  1816  led  to  the  production  of  additional 
materials.  We  have  a  manuscript  map,  by  Lieut.  G.  Lindesay, 
of  the  routes  by  which  Sir  David  Ochterlony's  army  advanced 
in  three  divisions  towards  Mukwanpur  in  February,  1816,  and 
a  sketch  jof  the  stockades  covering  the  pass  on  the  route  to 
Mukwanpur.     There  is  also  a  series  of  boundary  maps  between 


IHTB.]  LATEB  MAPS  OF  NBPAL.  (SZXvU 

Nepal  and  British  territory,  by  Lients.  Garden,  Boileau,  J.  A. 
Hodgson,  and  Pickersgill;  and  a  more  recent  one,  dated  1861, 
by  Lient.  P.  0.  Anderson. 

Dr.  Buchanan  Hamilton,  during  his  residence  at  Eathmandu, 
obtained  five  native  maps  of  parts  of  Nepal  and  Sikkim,  which 
he  deposited  in  the  library  of  the  East  India  Company.  They 
have  since  unfortunately  been  lost,  previous  to  the  organization 
of  the  Geographical  Department  of  the  India  Office.  Dr. 
Hamilton's  work  on  Nepal  is  illustrated  by  a  ''Map  of  the 
Dominions  of  the  House  of  Gorkha,"  constructed  by  himself 
from  all  existing  materials,  in  1819,  on  a  scale  of  35  miles  to 
an  inch. 

Mr.  Brian  Hodgson's  physical  map  of  Nepal,  showing  the 
river  systems,  appeared  in  the  '  Selections  from  the  Records  of 
the  Government  of  Bengal,'  No.  27  (1857)  ;  together  with  routes 
obtained  by  Mr.  Hodgson  from  Eathmandu  to  Peking,  from 
Eathmandu  to  Darjiling,  and  a  measurement  of  the  great  mili- 
tary road  through  Nepal,  from  Eumaon  to  Sikkim. 

In  the  Geographical  Department  of  the  India  Office  there  is 
a  manuscript  sketch  map  of  the  frontier  districts  of  Nepal  be- 
tween the  rivers  Gandak  and  Eosi,  dated  1840,  compiled  from 
official  records  (scale  4'  to  1  inch). 

The  latest  map  of  Nepal  is  a  "  Preliminary  Sketch  of  Nepal 
and  the  Countries  adjoining  to  the  South,  West,  and  East, 
October,  1855 ;  compiled  in  the  Office  of  the  Surveyor-General 
of  India  from  actual  Surveys,  other  available  Materials,  Itine- 
raries of  Travellers,  and  from  Information  "  (1856, 16  miles  to 
an  inch). 

Nepal  is,  however,  included  in  the  trans-frontier  maps  of 
the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  {Shed  9).  In  this  map  the 
hills  are  not  delineated,  and  it  is  confined  to  the  results  of 
observations  made  by  actual  exploration.  Consequently  it 
shows  the  various  gaps  which  are  still  unmapped,  and  practi- 
cally unknown.  This  sheet  has  the  advantage  of  including 
the  Tibetan  territory  up  to  the  Tsanpu,  so  far  as  it  has  been 


cxxYiii  MAPS  OF  SIKKIM.  [Iktb. 

explored  by  Colonel  Montgomerie's  assistants.      The  map  is 
dated  at  Delira  Dtin,  in  1873. 

The  only  map  of  the  native  state  of  Sikkim  is  that  by  Dr. 
Hooker.  The  original  manuscript  is  in  the  Geographical 
Department  of  the  India  Office :  ''  Map  of  Sikkim  and  Eastern 
Nepal,  by  J.  D.  Hooker,  Esq.,  M.D.,  R.N.,  F  JI.S.,  exhibiting  the 
Routes  of  that  Traveller,  1850  "  (4  miles  to  an  inch).  This  map 
is  a  very  able  piece  of  work,  and  is  certainly  the  most  striking 
contribution  to  the  geography  of  the  Himalaya  that  has  ever 
been  made  by  a  private  traveller.  It  is  also  lithographed  with 
this  title :  ^  Independent  Sikkim,  from  a  Sketch  by  J.  D.  Hooker, 
Esq.,  M.D.,  R.N.,  F.R.S.,  based  on  the  Operations  of  the  Great 
Trigonometrical  Survey,  1850  "  (same  scale  as  the  MS.). 

There  are  several  maps  of  British  Sikkim.  The  first  is  a 
manuscript  map  comprising  the  Darjiling  hill  territory  and  two 
Murung  Parganas,  from  surveys  by  Captain  W.  S.  Sherwill,  in 
1852,  and  reduced  in  1853  to  a  scale  of  4  miles  to  an  inch.  It 
includes  a  list  of  the  principal  tribes,  and  of  trees  and  plants, 
with  approximate  elevations  at  which  they  grow.  Captain 
SherwilFs  map  was  published  in  1852,  at  Calcutta.  Next  fol- 
lowed a  map  of  the  hill  territory  of  British  Sikkim  and  the 
Darjiling  district,  by  E.  T.  S.  Johnson,  Assistant  Revenue 
Surveyor,  in  1861  to  1867,  one  on  a  scale  of  2  inches  to  1  mile, 
on  five  sheets ;  published  also  on  a  scale  of  1  mile  to  1  inch. 
Another  map  of  the  Darjiling  district  was  brought  out  by  the 
Surveyor-General  in  1874,  on  a  scale  4  miles  to  an  inch,  show- 
ing also  the  route  to  Tumlong.  There  are  also  maps  of  the  sub- 
divisions of  the  Darjiling  district,  published  on  a  large  scale. 

The  first  general  map  of  Bhutan  was  drawn  by  Captain 
Pemberton.  It  is  included  in  two  sheets  of  his  large  map  of 
the  Eastern  Frontier  of  British  India^  in  twelve  sheets  (Calcutta, 
1838).  The  next  was  compiled  in  the  office  of  the  Surveyor- 
Oeneral,  on  a  scale  of  8  mUes  to  the  inch,  including  the  Bengal 
duars,  to  illustrate  the  route  of  the  Mission  of  1864.  It  illus- 
trates the  volume  published  at  Calcutta  in  1864,  containing 


INTR.]  RECENT  MAPS  OF  BHUTAN  AND  TIBET.  exxix 

"  Beports  of  Missions  to  Bhutan."     The  first  edition  of  this  map 
was  published  in  October,  1864,  and  the  second  in  July,  1865. 

**  A  Sketch  Map  of  Bhutan  and  of  the  Dooars  "  was  inserted 
in  the  Bhutan  *  Blue  Book,*  presented  to  Parliament  in  1865, 
and  is  also  used  to  illustrate  Dr.  Bonnie's  work  on  Bhutan.  The 
chief  object  of  this  sketch  was  to  define  the  extent  of  the  Dnar 
districts. 

In  1874,  a  new  preliminary  map  of  Bhutan  was  published 
by  the  Surveyor-General,  on  a  scale  of  8  miles  to  the  inch :  it  in- 
cludes, with  previous  work,  the  topographical  surveys  executed 
by  Captain  Godwin  Austen,  B.E.,  and  Lieuts.  Strahan,  B.E., 
and  Holdich,  B.E.,  in  1864-65, 1865-66 ;  and  information  col- 
lected by  Colonel  MacGregor.  This  map  illustrates  Colonel 
MacGregor's  Military  Beport  on  the  country  of  Bhutan. 

In  the  collection  of  the  Geographical  Department  of  the 
India  OfiSce  there  is  an  original  plane  table-sketch  of  Western 
Bhutan,  on  a  larger  scale,  surveyed  by  Captain  Godwin  Austen 
in  1864,  which  illustrates  the  route  of  Mr.  Eden's  mission. 

'   The  most  important  general  maps  including  Tibet  have  been 
those  of  Klaproth  ^  and  Berghaus ;   followed  by  the  maps  of 
Kiepert  and  others,  to  illustrate  Bitter's  '  Erdkunde.'    But  no 
real  additions  were  made  to  our  knowledge  of  Great  Tibet, 
supplied  by  M.  D'Anville's  maps,  until  Colonel  Montgomerie's 
explorers  penetrated  into  that   country,  and  brought    back 
valuable  geographical  results.    The  map  of  the  Pundit  of  1865, 
including  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Brahmaputra,  the 
city  of  Lhasa,  and  the  route  from  Eathmandu  into  Tibet  by 
the  No-la,  is  in  the  report  of  the  operations  of  the  Great  Trigo- 
nometrical Survey  for  1866-67.   The  report  for  1871-72  contains 
another  important  map,  compiled  by  Colonel  Montgomerie  from 
a  route  survey  made  by  an  Asiatic  explorer  (No.  9)  of  the  Dingri 

*  'Oarte  de  TAsie  Gentrale  dressee  grand  nombre  de  notions  extraites  et 

d'apies  lee  cartes  levies  par  ordre  de  traduites  de  livres  Ghinoises/  par  M.  J. 

rEinpereur  Khian  Loung,  par  les  miR-  Klaproth.    (Paris.    4  Bheets.) 
sionnaircs   de  Peking,  et    d'apres  un 


r«o 


cxxx       MAPB  OF  COLONEL  MONTGOMERIE^S  EXPLORERS.     [Iotb.      -- 

9 

Maidan,  the  upper  Aran  riyer,  and  part  of  Great  Tibet  (16  >^ 
miles  to  an  inch).  It  snpplies  important  rectifications  of  the  _ 
last  general  map  of  Nepal,  published  in  1855,  and  embraces  ^ 
all  Eastern  Nepal  from  Kathmandu  to  the  Sikkim  frontier. 
The  report  for  1872-73  has  a  map  from  the  route  survey  of 
an  explorer  who  reached  Shigatz^,  and  went  thence  across  the 
northern  range,  round  the  great  lake  Tengri-nor,  to  Lhasa. 
It  also  contains  a  map  from  a  route  survey  of  another  explorer 
who  traversed  Western  Nepal.  ^ 

These  four  maps,  obtained  from  the  work  of  native  explorers  j^ 
who  have  entered  Qreat  Tibet  within  the  last  ten  years,  represent  J!> 
the  first  accurate  geographical  infomaation,  with  the  exception  ;  J 
of  Turner's  route,  that  has  been  obtained  respecting  the  terrir  ;  ' 
tories  of  the  Dalai  and  Teshu  Lamas  since  the  publication  of  '^ 
D'Anville  8  map,  more  than  a  hundred  years  ago.  "  *  ^ 

The  routes  of  these  explorers,  as  well  as  of  Captain  Turner,    H. 
Dr.  Hooker,  and  the  missions  of  Pemberton  and  Eden  in  Bhutan, 
are  shown  on  the  general  map  prepared  for  my  "  Report  on  the 
Moral  and  Material  Progress  of  India  for- 1872-73,"  by  Mr. 
Trelawney  Saunders,  entitled,  "A  Map  of  Trade  Koutes  to  Tibet  ^. 
from  the  Lower  Provinces  of  Bengal  and  Assam  "  (scale  30  miles  j 
to  an  inch). 


-^ 


Ihtb.] 


DISCIPLES  OF  THE  SCHOOL  OF  HASTINGS. 


ozzxi 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 


OF 


GEORGE    BOGLE, 

BENGAL  CIVIL  SERVICE. 


The  genius  of  Warren  Hastings  is  shown  in  nothing  more  than 
in  his  rare  insight  in  the  selection  of  subordinates.  He  sur- 
rounded himself  with  youDg  men  of  great  ability  and  talent  for 
administration,  who  worked  for  him  with  a  zeal  which  was 
stimulated  by  warm  personal  attachment  Among  those  who 
were  trained  by  and  won  distinction  under  the  eye  of  the  first 
and  greatest  of  the  Governors-General  of  India  may  be  men- 
tioned young  Alexander  Elliot,^  who  was  cut  off  in  his  prime ; 
William  Markham,^  the  Besident  of  Benares,  who  assisted  his 
revered  chief  during  the  trial ;  Jonathan  Duncan,*  the  Governor 
of  Bombay ;  Claud  Alexander,  of  Ballochmyle ;  David  Anderson; 
Augustus  Clevland,*  the  civilizer  of  the  Santhal  tribes ;   and 


<  Brother  of  Sir  Gilbert  Elliot,  first 
Earl  of  MintOy  of  whom  more  hereafter. 

*  Son  of  Dr.  Markham,  Archbishop 
of  York;  brother  of  Colonel  David 
Harkham,  who  led  the  forlorn  hope 
at  the  siege  of  Bangalore;  uncle  of 
General  Frederick  Markham,  who  com- 
manded a  brigade  at  the  siege  of 
Monltan ;  and  grandfather  of  the  pre- 
sent editor.  Of  him  also  more  pre- 
sently. 

*  Jonathan  Duncan  entered  the  East 
India  Company's  serrice  in  1772.  He 
waa  the  friend  of  George  Bogle,  and 
his  value  was  cordially  appreciated  by 
Warren  Hastings.  He  was  Besident 
of  Benares  from  1787  to  1795,  where 
he  introduced  the   permanent  settle- 


ment, and  negotiated  an  important 
commercial  treaty  with  Nepal  in  1792. 
He  became  Governor  of  Bombay  in 
1795,  and  continued  to  administer  the 
affairs  of  that  important  Presidency 
until  his  death  on  August  11,  1811. 
Two  volumes  of  *  Selections  from  the 
Duncan  Keoords*  were  published  at 
Benares,  by  authority,  in  1873. 

*  Sir  Cecil  Beadon  tells  me  that  the 
name  of  Augustus  Clevland  U  still  re- 
membered and  revered  in  Bengal.  He 
was  a  younger  son  of  John  Clevland, 
Esq.,  of  Tapely  Hall,  near  Bideford, 
by  Sarah,  daughter  of  Charles  Sliuok- 
burgh,  Esq.,  of  Longborow,  in  Glouces- 
tershire, and  was  bom  in  1751.  Warren 
Hastings  thus  describes  the  nature  of 

i  2 


OXZXll 


FAMILY  OF  GEORGE  BOGLK 


[Iktb. 


George  Bogle,  the  subject  of  the  present  short  memoir,  whom 
Warren  Hastings  selected  as  his  envoy  to  Tibet. 

George  Bogle  was  the  son  of  George  Bogle  of  Daldowie, 
a  beautiful  place  near  Bothwell,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Clyde/  George,  the  elder,  was  bom  in  1700,  was  educated  at 
Leyden,  and  became  a  merchant  in  Glasgow,  where  he  was  six 
times  elected  Lord  Rector  of  the  University  between  the  years 
1737  and  1748.  He  married  Anne,  daughter  of  Sir  John  Sin- 
clair of  Stevenson,  by  Martha  Lockhart,^  heiress  of  Sir  John 
Lockhart  of  Castlehill,  in  Lanarkshire,  brother  of  Sir  William 
Lockhart  of  Lee.  Sir  John  "  was  a  man  of  great  parts  and 
knowledge  of  our  laws,  and  was  appointed  by  Charles  II.  one 
of  the  Senators  of  the  College  of  Justice,  and  a  Lord  of 
Justiciary,  as  Lord  Castlehill."*  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bogle,  of 
Daldowie,  had  nine  children,  of  whom   two  died  in   infancy. 


Mr.  Glevland's  services,  in  the  luminous 
memorandum  on  bis  administration  of 
India,  which  he  wrote  daring  his 
voyage  home  in  1785  (page  131) : 

"I  have  often  with  pleasure  ex- 
patiated on  the  peculiar  talents  of  the 
late  Mr.  Cleyland,  in  oivilizing  the  in- 
habitants of  the  mountainous  districts 
of  Rajmehal,  by  a  system  of  concilia- 
tion which  will  long  endear  his  memory 
to  those  who  have  felt  the  benefits  of 
it ;  and  I  cannot  deny  myself  the  grati- 
fication arising  from  the  reflection  that 
the  exertion  of  those  talents  was  in  a 
great  measure  owing  to  the  public  sup- 
port and  private  encouragement  which 
he  received  from  me.  In  the  honours 
bestowed  upon  his  memory,  the  Board 
haB  consulted  the  interests  of  the  Com- 
pany, by  holding  forth  for  imitation  a 
charaxster  so  worthy  of  it.  The  im- 
mediate advantages  of  his  labours  are 
seen  in  the  security  which  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  adjacent  lands  possess ;  no 
longer  apprehensive  of  being  plundered 
of  the  produce  of  their  labour  by  a 
lawless  banditti,  they  have  extended 
their  oultivation  over  large  tracts  of 
land  till  lately  impassable;    and  the 


country  at  the  bottom  of  the  Bajmehal 
Hills,  which  I  myself  have  seen  in  a 
state  of  nature,  has  assumed  an  appear- 
ance of  universal  fertility.    The  remote 
advantages  will  be  more  considerable 
should  the  continuance  of  the  same  plan 
of  civilization  increase  the  intercourse 
which  has  so  lately  been  established 
between  the  inhabitants  of  the   hills 
and  those  of  the  lowlands.      At  all 
events,  the  Company  has  acquired    a 
large  accession  of  new  subjects,  who  are 
not  only  peaceable  in  themselves,  but 
have  been   suooesafully  employed    in 
maintaining  the  peace  of  the  country, 
and  who,  being  warmly  attached  to  qb 
by  the  superior  benefits  they  have  re- 
ceived from  their  civilization,  may,  in 
case  of  public  exigency,  be  usefully 
employed  in  the  defence  of  our  terri- 
tories against  foreign  invasion." 
>  Now  the  property  of  Mr.  M*CalL 
'  This  lady  was  the  widow  of  Crom- 
well Lockhart  of  Lee,  eldest  son  of  the 
great  ambassador  Sir  William  Lockhart, 
who  married  Bnbina,  daughter  of  John 
Sewster,  Esq.,  by  Anna,  sister  of  Oliver 
Cromwell,  the  Lord  Protector. 
*  Baronage  of  Scotland. 


Intb.]  BOGLE'S  EAELY  YEARS.  oxxriii 

The  rest  were  Martha,  Bobert,  Mary,  Elizabeth,  John,  Anne,  and 
George  the  youngest,  who  was  bom  on  the  26th  of  November, 
1746.  They  were  brought  up  together  at  Daldowie,  and  in 
one  of  his  early  letters  from  Calcutta  to  his  sister  Anne, 
whose  pet  name  was  Ohuffles,  George  Bogle  recalls  the  happy 
days  of  their  childhood.  "  Throwing  myself  back  in  my  great 
chair,  I  am  transported  to  the  nursery  at  Daldowie.  The 
picture  of  Julius  Cassar  recalls  to  my  mind  the  shows  which 
you  remember  we  used  to  make.  You  two  stools,  how  often 
have  I  ate  bread  and  milk  upon  you,  or  played  at  catch 
honours  or  comet!  Need  I  ask  you  if  you  remember  one 
night  that  the  beds  were  to  be  filled  with  fresh  chaff  and 
afterwards  lay  upon  the  floor,  what  diversion  we  had  in 
tumbling  one  another  from  the  top  of  the  drawers  ?  Do  you 
remember  how  we  broke  open  the  window,  at  the  bottom  of 
one  of  the  beds,  to  get  at  some  shells  ?  Never  shall  I  wish  for 
anything  so  much  as  I  did  to  get  at  those  shells,  which  we 
could  always  see  and  never  get  at.  All  was  one  continued 
scene  of  health  and  pleasure.  This  gave  way  to  the  life  of 
a  schoolboy,  and  away  I  was  hurried  to  Haddington,  where 
I  passed  happy  years ;  but  my  pleasures,  although  very  great, 
were  different  from  those  in  the  nursery.  The  last  were 
perhaps  the  most  unmixed  of  the  two,  but  a  boy  learns  to 
despise  them  and  affects  more  manly  diversions.  During  this 
Latin  and  Greek  period,  I  from  time  to  time  paid  annual  visits 
to  the  nursery,  and  was  generally  there  when  it  was  adorned 
with  the  brown  maiden  and  her  scarlet  girdle.  After  this 
I  lived  in  Glasgow,  and  generally  passed  the  Saturday  nights 
in  the  nursery.  Away  I  was  whirled  up  to  London.  What 
expectation  and  curiosity !  It  was  so  great  that  I  hardly  felt 
grief  at  parting  with  my  friends.  And  I  quitted  the  nursery 
for  many  years,  and  I  hcui  just  time  to  hurry  down  to  Scotland 
to  take  farewell.  I  was  only  there  three  weeks,  but  let  me  not 
pa,ss  them  over  like  the  other  weeks  of  my  existence.  Every 
hour  of  them  was  marked  with  joy  at  meeting  with  so  many 


cxxxiv  BOGLE  ENTERS  T»E  COMPANY'S  SERVICE.  [Iittb. 

friends  whom  I  so  tenderly  loyed,  and  who  retamed  my  fond- 
ness, and  they  ended  with  heartfelt  regret  at  parting  with  such 
friends,  with  so  distant  a  prospect  of  meeting  them  again.** 

He  was  never  to  see  them  again.  He  decided  upon  adopt- 
ing the  career  of  a  merchant,  and  it  was  settled  that  he  should, 
after  completing  his  education,  either  go  into  his  brother 
Robert's  counting-house,  in  London,  or  to  his  brother  John,  who 
was  established  as  a  merchant  at  Falmouth,  on  the  Bappa- 
hannock  river,  in  Virginia.  After  leaving  Glasgow,  he  attended 
Edinburgh  University,  studying  logic  and  other  branches  of 
education,  from  November,  1760,  to  April,  1761.  He  was  then 
sent  to  Mr.  Kinross's  school,  at  Enfield,  and  in  December,  1764, 
he  accompanied  a  sick  friend  to  the  south  of  France,  who  died 
at  Toulouse,  in  January,  1765.  Young  Bogle  travelled  in 
France  until  the  following  June,  when  he  was  summoned  to 
London  by  his  eldest  brother  Bobert,  of  the  firm  of  Bogle  and 
Scott,  whose  counting-house  he  entered  as  a  clerk.  Here  he 
remained  for  the  next  four  years,  acquiring  much  experience  in 
business,  and  in  1769  his  friends  obtained  for  him  an  appoint- 
meift  in  tbe  service  of  the  East  India  Company. 

George  Bogle  at  the  age  of  twenty-three  found  himself  on 
board  the  '  Yansittart,'  Indiaman,  commanded  by  Captain 
Lewin,  with  letters  of  credit  to  a  considerable  amount,  and 
introductions  to  the  principal  people  in  Bengal.  He  embarked 
on  the  25th  of  January,  1770,  but  did  not  get  clear  of  the 
Channel  until  the  24th  of  February.  After  touching  at  the 
Cape,  at  Johanna,  one  of  the  Comoro  Islands,  and  at  Madras, 
the  *Vansittart'  arrived  in  the  -Hugli,  and  ou  the  19th  of 
August  George  Bogle  landed  at  Calcutta. 

The  young  civilian  arrived  in  Bengal  at  the  time  of  the 
great  famine  of  1770,  and  the  misery  he  witnessed  left  a  deep 
impression  on  his  mind.  Writing  to  his  father,  in  September, 
he  says :  "  Last  year  the  crops  failed  to  an  extent  never  known 
before  in  the  memory  of  man,  which  has  reduced  the  inhabitants 
to  the  utmost  distress.     This  town  was  better  provided  than 


INTB.]  THE  FAMINE  OF  1770.  oxxxv 

most  others,  and  yet  it  has  suffered  amazingly.  The  Governor  * 
and  Council  had  a  magazine  of  grain  with  which  they  fed 
fifteen  thousand  every  day  for  soipe  months,  and  yet  this 
could  not  prevent  many  thousands  from  dying  of  want,  and  the 
streets  from  being  crowded  with  the  most  miserable  objects. 
There  were  sometimes  150  dead  bodies  picked  up  in  a  day,  and 
thrown  into  the  river.  In  the  country  the  distress  was  greater, 
as  it  was  farther  removed  from  the  sea  and  not  so  easily  supplied 
from  distant  countries.  Whole  families  perished  of  hunger, 
or  fed  upon  leaves  of  trees,  or,  contrary  to  their  religion,  ate 
animal  food ;  some  even  subsisted  on  the  dead  carcasses.  Their 
distress  is  unparalleled,  and  it  shocks  one  to  think  of  it.  A  million 
and  a  half  of  people  are  said  to  have  famished  in  the  provinces 
that  belong  to  the  English.  There  is  one  thing  that  must  amaze 
everyone  that  has  been  used  to  a  free  country.  There  is  an 
indolence  and  indifference  about  them  that  is  astonishing,  and 
despair  rather  increases  it.  They  have  died  without  a  single 
effort  to  obtain  grain  either  by  force  or  even  by  toil  and  labour. 
What  mobs  and  commotions  there  would  be  with  us  were  grain 
to  increase  to  three  times  its  price !  and  in  many  places  it  was 
a  hundred  times  what  it  usually  is."  In  a  subsequent  letter, 
written  on  October  24,  1770,  he  reverts  to  the  subject  of  the 
famine  again  :  *'  The  distress  has  put  a  stop  in  some  manner  to 
trade,  for  gi*ain  was  one  of  the  best  articles  to  export  from  this 
country,  and  was  the  means  of  bringing  money  in  return ;  and 
the  death  and  ruin  of  such  a  number  of  inhabitants  must 
necessarily  hurt  the  manufactures  of  cotton,  which  Bengal  is 
famous  for  all  over  the  world.  I  hope,  however,  that  things 
will  soon  begin  to  revive,  and  that  the  inhabitants,  as  soon  as 
they  are  relieved  from  their  distress,  will  return  with  spirit  to 
their  industiy  and  manufactures."  In  December  he  wrote  that 
**  the  price  of  grain  is  very  much  fallen,  and  the  people  are  again 
living  in  plenty,  and  contented." 

Writers,  on  their  arrival  at  Calcutta,  were  appointed  as 

*  Kr.  Cartier. 


cxxxvi  BOGLE  IN  THE  REVENUE  DEPARTMENT.  [Ihtb. 

afisistauta  in  the  different  offices,  and  Bogle  was  placed  in  that 
of  the  Select  Committee  which  transacted  all  political  business, 
so  that  he  early  got  an  insight  into  the  situation  of  the  Ck>m- 
pany's  possessions,  and  into  its  foreign  relations.  Meanwhile 
he  diligently  studied  Persian,  and  within  the  first  year  he  was 
able  to  read  and  converse  in  that  language. 

In  February,  1772,  when  young  Bogle  had  been  eighteen 
months  in  Calcutta,  Warren  Hastings  anived  from  Madras  to 
succeed  Mr.  Cartier  as  Goyernor  of  Bengal ;  but  he  did  not 
take  his  seat  as  President  of  the  Council  until  the  following 
April,  having  carefully  investigated  the  state  of  affairs  in  the 
interval,  and  found  all  the  departments  in  a  deplorable  state  of 
confusion.  The  new  Governor  at  once  began  to  inaugurate  a  more 
efficient  system  of  administration.  Among  other  appointments, 
Mr.  George  Bogle  received  the  post  of  Assistant-Secretary  to 
the  Board  of  Bevenue,  under  Mr.  Higginson,  on  the  10th  of 
October,  1772;  and  in  the  same  month  he  accompanied  the 
Governor  and  some  of  the  Members  of  Council  on  a  tour  of 
inspection  to  Cossimbazar,  with  a  view  to  making  a  settlement 
of  the  land  on  leases,  of  five  years.  They  went  first  to  Kishan- 
garh,  where  they  remained  about  a  month,  and  thence  to 
Cossimbazar,  where  the  revenue  business  detained  them  for 
nearly  three  months.  This  employment  was  very  advantageous 
to  young  Bogle,  as  it  furnished  an  opportunity  for  him  to 
become  better  known  to  Warren  Hastings,  and  at  the  same  time 
gave  him  a  practical  insight  into  revenue  business.  He  described 
his  appointment  as  '^attended  with  much  trouble  and  small 
advantages,  but  it  is  highly  agreeable  to  me  from  placing  me 
immediately  under  the  eye  of  the  Governor  and  Council." 

His  letters  at  this  time  to  his  father  and  sisters  are  full  of 
the  warmest  expressions  of  affection,  and  betoken  a  strong  home 
feeling,  which,  however,  in  no  way  lessened  his  official  zeal  and 
efficiency.  This  is  especially  shown  in  the  letters  to  his  favourite 
sister  Anne,  whom  he  calls  by  the  old  pet  name :  '^  Your  letters, 
my  dear  Chuffles,  are  the  very  nutmeg  of  delight,  so  long,  so 


Intb.]  BOGLE'S  CHARACTER  OF  WARREN  HASTINGS.       cxxxvu 

particnlar  about  everything  my  friends  are  doing.  I  have  read 
them  oyer  again  and  again,  and  find  new  beauties  in  them 
every  day.  They  are  just  as  if  you  were  chattering,  with  this 
advantage,  that  they  cannot  give  me  a  headache  and  I  can  stop 
them  if  I  chose,  which,  you  know,  is  not  always  an  easy  matter 
with  your  ladyship.  They  want,  however,  the  snap  of  the 
fingers  and  the  hearty  laugh.  The  good  news  of  all  my  friends 
gives  me  the  most  sincere  delight.  God  grant  I  may  long 
continue  to  receive  such  comfortable  news !  My  heart  overflows 
with  gratitude  to  Heaven,  but  it  is  not  unmixed  with  regret." 
He  then  writes  of  the  projected  improvements  at  Daldowie, 
dwelling  fondly  on  all  the  details  and  on  all  the  well-remem- 
bered places  round  his  home  on  the  Clyde. 

In  1773,  his  brother  Eobert  suffered  great  commercial 
losses,  his  father's  estate  became  encumbered,  and  George 
Bogle  generously  resolved  to  save  money,  year  by  year,  so  as 
to  aid  in  freeing  his  relations  from  their  embarrassments,  and 
in  paying  off  the  debt  on  his  beloved  home  at  Daldowie.  On 
the  9th  of  Marcli,  1773,  he  was  appointed  to  the  office  of 
Begistrar  to  the  Sadr  Diwani  Adalat,  the  Court  of  Appeals 
for  the  natives;  and  soon  afterwards  Secretary  to  the  Select 
Committee.    At  this  time  he  thus  writes  of  the  Governor : 

**Mr.  Hastings  is  a  man  who  is  every  way  fitted  for  the 
station  which  he  holds.  He  possesses  a  steadiness,  and  at 
the  same  time  a  moderation  of  character;  he  is  quick  and 
assiduous  in  business,  and  has  a  fine  style  of  language,  a  know- 
ledge of  the  customs  and  dispositions  of  the  natives,  whose 
tongue  he  understands,  and,  although  not  affable,  yet  of  the 
most  ready  access  to  all  the  world.  During  his  administration 
many  abuses  have  been  reformed,  and  many  useful  regulations 
have  been  established  in  every  department  of  government. 
The  natives  are  possessed  of  a  code  of  laws  far 'more  ancient 
than  Justinian,  which  have  been  handed  down  through  a 
succession  of  ages,  are  interwoven  with  the  system  of  their 
religion,  and  are  framed  to  suit  the  manners  of  the  people  for 


CJEXXYUl 


FRIENDSHIP  FOB  ALEXANDER  ELLIOT. 


[Ihtr. 


whom  they  are  intended.  To  revive  these  laws  is  at  present  a 
principal  object  with  Mr.  Hastings,  and  some  progress  has  been 
made  in  translating  them  into  English.  This  work,  when 
finished,  will  do  great  credit  to  Mr.  Hastings,  and  will  furnish 
an  excellent  guide  to  the  decisions  of  the  Courts,  while  it 
pleases  the  people,  who  are  attached  to  their  own  laws  and 
usages." 

George  Bogle  was  now  very  high  in  the  favour  of  Warren 
Hastings,  who  had  not  only  a  good  opinion  of  his  abilities  and 
official  aptitude,  but  a  warm  personal  friendship  for  himself. 
The  latter  feeling  was  fully  reciprocated  by  the  young  Scot, 
as  it  was  by  most  of  the  youthful  administrators  who  were 
honoured  by  the  confidence  and  friendship  of  the  Governor. 
Among  them  aU,  however,  none  were  more  devotedly  loyal  to 
their  chief  than  George  Bogle  and  his  bosom  friend  Alexander 
Elliot,  the  younger  brother  of  Sir  Gilbert^ 

When  George  Bogle  was  appointed  as  Envoy  to  the  Lama 
of  Tibet,  on  the  13th  of  May,  1774,  Alexander  Elliot  officiated 
for  him  as  Secretary  to  the  Select  Committee,  and  Begistrar  to 
the  Sadr  Diwani  Ad&lat;  and  the  most  afiectionate  letters 
passed  between  them  during  this  separation.  The  Envoy  also 
wrote  home  constantly  in  the  course  of  his  journey  to  the 
unknown  table-land,  and  his  warm  heart  was  full  of  recollec- 
tions of  his  distant  home.  Writing  from  Tassisudon,  the 
capital  of  Bhutan,  in  August,  1774,  to  his  sister  Elizabeth, 
he  says :  "  It  is  true,  Bess,  what  you  say ;  the  country  people 
who  live  among  their  friends  and  relations  are  strangers  to  the 


^  Alexander  Kynynmond  Elliot  was 
the  thiid  son  of  Sir  Gilbert  ElUot,  Bart., 
by  Agnee  Murray  Kynynmond,  heireas 
of  Helgand  and  Kynynmond.  HiB 
eldest  brother,  Gilbert,  became  first 
Earl  of  Minto,  and  was  Governor- 
General  of  India.  The  second  brother, 
Hugh,  was  Governor  of  Madras.  Sir 
Gilbert  Elliot,  the  eldest,  was  bom  in 
1751.    He  was  Viceroy  of  Corsica  in 


1795,  created  Baron  Minto  in  1797, 
President  of  the  Board  of  Control  in 
1806,  and  Governor-General  from  1807 
to  1812.  In  1813  he  was  created  Earl 
of  Minto  and  Yiscoant  Melgnnd,  and 
he  died  in  1814.  Alexander,  the  tliird 
son,  entered  the  East  India  Company, 
and  became  a  dear  friend  of  George 
Bogle,  and  a  favourite  of  Warr«n 
Hastings. 


INTB.]  LETTERS  FROM  TIBET.  cxxxix 

pangs  of  parting,  and  to  the  solicitnde  of  absence.  Bnt  they 
never  feel  the  joy  which  your  letters  give  me,  and  the  tear 
which  now  starts  from  my  eye  is  worth  an  age  of  their  vegetable 
-affection.  Yet  I  would  have  wished  to  have  passed  the  two 
months  with  Bobin  at  Daldowie.  If  the  three  little  weeks  I 
spent  there  ^  gave  me  so  much  pleasure,  what  must  I  have 
enjoyed  with  the  addition  of  his  company!  But,  alas!  our 
destinies  have  wove  for  us  a  different  web.  We  are  scattered 
over  the  face  of  the  earth,  and  are  united  only  by  hope  and  a 
tender  remembrance.  While  you  are  passing  your  cheerful 
evenings  with  friends  and  relations  at  Daldowie ;  while  Bobin, 
with  his  negroes  (and  happy  are  they  that  are  under  him),  is 
planting  the  sugar  cane;^  while  I  am  climbing  these  rugged 
mountains,  there  is  a  secret  virtue,  like  the  magnet,  which 
attracts  us  together,  and  cheers  and  solaces  us.  Beyond  this 
hangs  a  cloud  which  we  cannot  penetrate."  His  letters  from 
Tibet  are  also  fiill  of  amusing  stories,  and  they  repeat  the 
contents  of  his  journal  in  a  somewhat  different  style  for  each 
of  his  sisters. 

When  Bogle  left  Tibet,  and  the  moment  of  separation  came, 
the  Teshu  Lama  took  from  his  own  neck  three  charmed  strings 
of  beads  forming  one  necklace,  and  presented  them  to  his  friend, 
telling  him  that  the  ladies  upon  whom  he  bestowed  them  would 
be  protected  from  all  evil.  Bogle  gave  the  lower  string,  with 
the  pendant  ornaments,  to  his  sister,  Mrs.  Brown,  and  it  is  now 
in  the  possession  of  her  granddaughter,  Miss  Brown  of  Lanfine. 
The  upper  string  he  gave  to  his  cousin,  Mrs.  Morehead,  who 
bequeathed  it  to  the  eldest  daughter  of  her  son  Robert,  now 
Lady  Lowther.^ 

'  Before  starting  for  India.  George  Bogle,  being  a  daughter  of  John 

'  Bobert  Bogle  had  settled  in  the  Sinclair  Lockhart,  of  Castlehill,  whose 

island  of  Grenada  as  a  sugar  planter.  sister  Ann  was  George  Bogle's  mother. 

'  See  'Memorials  of  the  Life  and  At  p.  892  of  the  '  Memorials/ quoted 

WritingsoftheBeT.  Robert  Morehead/  above,  there  is  a   notice   of   George 

edited  by  his  son,  Charles  Morehead,  Bogle,  foUowed  by  several  letters  to 

M.D.  (Edinburgh,  1875),  p.  43,  note.  him  from  Mrs.  Morehead.    Her  son, 

Mrs.  Morehead  was  a  first  cousin  of  the  Rev.  Robert  Morehead,  was  bom  in 


cil  THE  LAHA'B  NECKLACE.  [Ihtb. 

A  wood  engraving  of  the  Teehu  L&ma'e  charmed  oecklati-e 
is  here  preseoted.  The  centre  etring  was  of  bright  blue  and 
green  glass  beads,  and  it  is  now  lost.  The  npper  and  lower 
strings  are  formed  of  highly-polished  beads  of  Tibetan  camelian, 
red,  with  en  orange  tint,  and  nearly  opaque.    To  the  lower  one 


a  variety  of  ornamenta  are  attached.  One  of  these  consiBts  of 
three  beads  strung  together,  the  colour  and  size  of  green  peas, 
terminating  with  a  camelian  drop  set  in  gold.  Two  strings  are 
of  dull  pink  glass  beads.  At  one  end,  suspended  by  flat  silk 
braid,  are  two  ornaments  of  transparent  blue  glass ;  one  flat 

1777,  and  died  in  1842.    He  married  a  Sir  Chailpa  Lowther,  Bart,  ot  Swil- 

dster- in-law  of  Lord  Jeffrey,  and  had,  llngtoD,  near  XjOeds.    It  is  to  ber  that 

witb  otlier  cluldren  (one  of  whom  wu  the  upper  string  of  beads  of  the  neok- 

Ivrice  Acting  Governor  of  Uadras),  a  laoeoftha Tesba Lama waa bequeathed 

daughter  latbella,  married,  in  1884,  to  b;  her  grandmother. 


r       \ 


"^    ■<- 


^U. 


\    A  » 


^Ui/.'^7 


fct.  » 


44^0<^ 


//  ^ 


-4^1^^ 


4f^«^m   ^'jf^^*^    ^ 


^^'^i 


> 


Ibptb.] 


APPROVAL  OF  BOGLE'S  PROCEEDINGS. 


exit 


ovaly  set  in  gold,  the  other  pear-shaped  aud  unset ;  two  clouded 
chalcedony  beads  the  size  of  marbles,  and  two  long  vase-shaped 
beads  of  camelian.  At  the  other  end,  also  suspended  by  flat 
silk  braid,  are  one  oval-shaped  flat  bead,  and  three  beads  the 
size  of  marbles,  all  of  dull  red  glass,  and  one  camelian  vase- 
shaped  bead.  A  number  of  small  gold  chased  rings,  some 
having  stars  in  the  centre,  form  connecting  links  here  and 
there.  A  large  white  chalcedony  was  the  centre  bead  of  the 
upper  string. 

On  his  return  Mr.  Bogle  received  a  letter  from  the  Governor- 
General,  of  which  the  following  is  an  extract : 

"I  am  perfectly  satisfied  and  pleased  with  every  circum- 
8t€ince  of  your  conduct,  and  equally  so  with  the  issue  of  your 

commission I  have  many  thanks  to  make  for  your 

journal,  which  the  world  must  have.  Its  merit  shall  not  be 
lost  where  I  can  make  it  known.  I  have  not  yet  read  your  last 
section,  having  had  it  only  half  an  hour. 

"  I  am,  with  the  heartiest  affection, 
"  Dear  Bogle,  yours, 

"W.  Hastings. 

**  P.S. — Since  writing  the  above  I  have  read  through  the 
last  chapter  of  your  journal.  I  am  pleased,  exceedingly  pleased, 
with  all  your  proceedings ;  and  have  had  the  satisfaction  of 
discovering,  while  I  read  it,  the  place  of  your  late  residence, 
Teshoo  Loombo,  in  an  old  map  of  Tartary."  * 


>  It  iB  an  mtereBtlng  queetion  ia 
yrhAt  old  map  of  Tatary  Warren  Has- 
tingB  fonnd  the  name  Teshoo  Loombo. 
It  does  not  occur  on  the  map  of  D'An- 
▼ille  m  Dn  Halde.  But  the  word  Tache 
Zimbou  (in  the  right  plaoe  for  Teshu 
Lumbo)  was  found  in  two  maps  in  the 
British  Museum  by  Mr.  Major,  who 


kindly  made  a  search  for  me.  One  is 
by  Hermann  Moll,  with  this  title :  "  To 
the  Bight  Honourable  William  Cowper, 
Lord  High  Chancellor  of  Great  Britain, 
this  Map  of  Asia,  according  to  the 
newest  and  most  exact  observations,  is 
most  humbly  dedicated,  by  your  Lord- 
ship's most  humble  servant,  Hermann 


cxiii 


THE  FRANCIS  FACTION. 


[Intr. 


When  George  Bogle  returned  from  Tibet,  in  1775,  he  found 
a  sad  change  in  the  state  of  affairs.  Warren  Hastings  had,  it  is 
true,  become  the  first  Governor-General ;  but  in  October,  1774, 
the  new  Council,  consisting  of  Philip  Francis,  General  Clayering, 
and  Colonel  Monson,  had  arrived  at  Calcutta,  and  their  factions 
conduct  had  deprived  the  great  statesman  of  all  power  and 
authority,  and  reduced  him  to  a  cipher.  The  two  others  were 
mere  tools  in  the  hands  of  Francis,  who,  with  complete  ignor- 
ance of  Indian  affairs  and  overweening  self-conceit,  combined 
a  malignant  pleasure  in  using  his  power  to  inflict  petty  annoy- 
ances on  the  Governor-General,  especially  by  injuring  those 
whom  he  had  trusted.  The  country,  at  a  very  critical  period, 
was  thus  thrown  into  a  state  of  dangerous  anarchy,  in  which  it 
remained  for  nearly  two  years,  until  the  opportune  death  of 
Colonel  Monson,  in  September,  1776,  once  more  gave  Warren 
Hastings  a  majority  at  the  Council  Board. 

During  this  period  young  Bogle  was  placed  in  a  most 
difficult  position.  In  July,  1775,  Alexander  Elliot  went  home,^ 
partly  to  advocate  the  cause  of  his  beloved  chief,  and  to  take 
care  that  the  truth  was  known  respecting  the  trial  of  Nuncomar ; 
for  Francis  was  busily  disseminating  the  most  unscrupulous 
misrepresentations,  and  truth  had  little  chance  of  being  heard 


Moll,  geographer."  Lord  Gowper  was 
Chancellor  from  1714  to  1718,  and  died 
in  1724.  The  other  map  is  entitled : 
^  Asia  Ck)rrected  from  the  Observations 
communicated  to  the  Royal  Society  at 
London,  and  the  Boyal  Academy  at 
Paris,  by  John  Senex,  F.R.S.,  London. 
To  Sir  George  Markham,  Baronet,  this 
map  is  dedicated,  by  his  humble  ser- 
vant, John  Senex.**  Sir  George  Mark- 
ham  died  in  1736.  Both  Moll  and 
Senex  probably  copied  from  the  map  of 
China  of  1705,  by  Delisle,  on  which 
the  name  Tassoo  Loomboo  occurs  in  the 
right  place.  But,  curiously,  it  does  not 
appear  on  Delisle*s  map  of  Asia  of 
twenty  years  later.  Any  cne  of  the 
above  three  maps  may  have  been  before 


Warren  Hastings,  when  he  read  Bogle's 
journal. 

*  In  the  summer  of  1776  Alexander 
had  returned,  and  for  a  short  time  all 
the  children  of  Sir  Gilbert  and  Lady 
Elliot  were  reunited  under  their  roof  at 
Twickeuhsm.  Gilbert  had  just  entered 
Parliament  with  every  prospect  of  ob- 
taining a  position  there;  Hugh  and 
Alexander  were  already  high  in  the 
confidence  of  the  governments  they 
served.  Alexander  wrote:  "I  have 
visited  the  mill,  and  the  rivulet,  and  the 
Thames,  the  spots  where  we  flrst  learned 
to  love  each  other,  and  now  only  you 
(Hugh)  are  wanted  to  make  us  per- 
fectly happy."  Alexander  returned  to 
India  in  1777. 


IKTB.]  THE  FRANCIS  FACTION.  oxliii 

where  £Etlflehood  and  slander  enjoyed  such  powerfdl  patronage. 
Writing  to  his  sister,  Mrs.  Brown,  at  this  time,  Bogle  says :  **  A 
particular,  I  may  say  a  bosom  friend  of  mine,  a  son  of  Sir 
Gilbert  Elliot,  is  going  home,  and  as  we  are  warmly  attached  to 
the  same  interest,  we  are  employed  from  morning  to  night  in 
going  to  one  place  or  another,  or  in  conjuring  over  what  is  past 
and  what  is  to  come.  This  scene  altogether  forms  a  strange 
contrast  to  my  peaceful  existence  in  Tibet.'* 

Francis  and  his  clique  had  deprived  George  Bogle  of  all  his 
appointments.  Writing  to  his  brother  Robert,  in  1775,  he 
says:  ''The  other  day  Mr.  Hastings  proposed  me  for  a  high 
office.  He  was  seconded  by  Mr.  Barwell,  but  it  was  carried 
against  me  by  the  other  three  members.  So  that  at  present, 
when  I  expected  to  reap  the  fruit  of  all  my  labours,  I  am  dis- 
appointed. The  particular  favours  with  which  Mr.  Hastings  has 
honoured  me,  leaye  me,  however,  in  these  times,  in  no  suspense 
as  to  the  line  I  am  to  take.  There  is  only  one  honourable 
course.  Tet  I  do  not  despair.  I  have  got  myself  some  credit. 
I  have,  I  think,  no  enemies ;  and  I  must  hope  for  the  best. 
These  disputes,  I  trust,  will  soon  be  settled  by  an  order  from 
England,  and  that  Mr.  Hastings,  whose  able  and  spirited 
administration  has  raised  the  Company's  affairs  to  the  most 
flourishing  situation  they  were  eyer  in,  will  meet  with  that  sup- 
port which  his  services  deserve.  As  I  am  not  called  at  present 
to  aet  in  any  public  employment,  I  propose  to  dedicate  my  time 
entirely  to  the  service  of  Mr.  Hastings,  and  to  improving  myself 
in  the  Persian.  The  factions  in  Calcutta  render  society,  beyond 
the  circle  of  one's  intimate  friends,  very  unpleasant,  and  I 
intend,  therefore,  to  lead  a  quiet  life,  and  see  what  turn  things 
will  take." 

On  20th  of  January,  1776,  George  Bogle  thus  writes  to  his 
father:.  ''As  Mr.  Hastings  has  always  patronized  me,  my 
success  in  this  country  depends  in  a  great  measure  upon  his 
fate.  His  colleagues,  who  came  out  last  year,  have  taken  every 
means  in  their  power  to  ruin  him.     However,  his  merit  is  so 


cxliv  DIGNIFIED  CONDUCT  OP  WARREN  HASTINGS,  [Ism, 

great,  and  he  has  done  so  much  for  the  Company^  and  put  their 
a£fair8  in  Bengal  in  so  flourishing  a  state,  that  I  hope  he  will 
be  supported.  Should  things  turn  out  otherwise  it  will  be  a 
severe  stroke  upon  me.  My  Tibet  journey  has  turned  out  as 
well  as  I  could  wish,  and  although  my  connection  with  the 
Governor-General  renders  me  not  very  acceptable  to  the  new 
members,  they  have  given  me  all  credit  for  it.  I  am  at  present^ 
however,  without  any  office,  except  my  employment  about  Mr. 
Hastings,  and  have  no  near  prospect  of  getting  any  post"  The 
factious  majority,  however,  so  far  acknowledged  the  value  of 
Mr.  Bogle's  work  in  Tibet,  as  to  grant  him  a  sum  of  15,000 
rupees,  besides  his  expenses.  By  almost  every  ship,  in  spite  of 
his  want  of  employment,  he  contrived  to  send  home  small  remit- 
tances to  his  father,  towards  paying  off  the  debt  on  Daldowie. 

On  March  26,  1776,  he  writes :  "  Mr.  Hastings  bears  this 
attack  [of  the  Francis  clique]  with  a  calmness  and  equanimity 
which  raises  his  character  in  the  eyes  of  everybody;  and 
although  to  pay  court  to  him  is  the  sure  way  to  give  umbrage 
to  his  opponents,  who  are  possessed  of  all  power,  yet  the  respect 
that  is  felt  for  his  character  preserves  his  levies,  now  when  he 
is  stripped  of  power,  as  crowded  as  ever.  As  regards  myself, 
fidelity  is,  in  my  opinion,  a  virtue  of  all  others  the  most  indis- 
pensable, and  there  is  only  one  heau  ehemm  to  take.  Thus 
you  will  observe  that  my  fortune  depends  on  Mr.  Hastings.  If 
he  succeeds  I  have  everything  to  hope  for.  If  he  falls  I  must 
betake  myself  to  some  other  line,  more  independent  of  the 
Supreme  Council." 

At  length  the  death  of  Colonel  Monson,  on  September  25, 
1776,  deprived  Francis  of  his  majority,  and  put  an  end  to  his 
factious  misrule.  The  Governor-General  was  restored  to  power, 
and  on  the  12th  of  November  George  Bogle  was  appointed,  in 
conjunction  with  Mr.  David  Anderson,  to  superintend  an  office  for 
the  preparation  and  arrangement  of  the  necessary  materials  for 
forming  a  new  settlement  of  the  Company's  provinces,  at  the 
expiration  of  the  existing  leases.     He  entered  upon  this  impor- 


Ivm]  CHARACTERS  OF  HASTINGS  AND  FRANCIS.  oxW 

tant  work  with  zeal  and  assiduity.  "  It  is  a  work,"  he  writes  to  his 
fetther,  '*  which  will  engross  my  whole  time,  and  require  my 
greatest  exertions  to  execute  my  part  of  it"  The  information 
collected  by  Mr.  Anderson  and  Mr.  Bogle  was  invaluable ;  and 
there  were  not  two  gentlemen  better  qualified  at  the  disposal 
of  GoTemment,  both  on  account  of  their  talents  and  their 
business-like  habits.^  Bogle  also  managed  the  Company's  law 
business,  as  Commissioner  of  Lawsuits,  during  about  fifteen 
months,  a  very  difficult  and  harassing  service. 

Meanwhile  an  attempted  revolution  by  the  Francis  clique 
was  thwarted.  On  the  24th  of  November,  1777,  Bogle  writes  to 
his  father :  '*  You  will  have  learnt  the  consequences  which  the 
unexpected  accounts  of  Mi.  Hastings'  resignation  produced  in 
this  settlement ;  the  assumption  of  the  government  by  General 
Clavering;  the  refusal  of  Mr.  Hastings  to  relinquish  it;  the 
appeal  of  both  parties  to  the  Judges ;  their  opinion  in,  favour  of 
Mr.  Hastings ;  the  Greneral's  suspension  of  his  claim ;  the 
apparent  quiet  that  succeeded,  and,  finally,  the  death  of 
Greneral  Clavering,  on  the  30th  of  August.  This  event  has 
relieved  Mr.  Hastings  from  a  great  part  of  the  opposition  to 
ivhich  he  had  been  so  long  exposed.  How  far  it  will  give 
stability  to  his  government  must  depend  on  the  supreme  power 
in  England.  Independent  of  partiality,  if  I  can  divest  myself 
of  it,  I  hope,  for  the  sake  of  the  British  nation,  that  Mr. 
Hastings  will  be  confirmed  and  his  hand  strengthened.  He  is 
possessed  of  talents  which  it  may  be  difficult  to  equal,  and  of  a 
mind  more  just  and  disinterested  than  is  commonlv  to  be  found 
in  a  man  who  has  passed  so  many  years  in  public  business. 
The  remaining  member  of  the  majority,  Mr.  Francis,  is  of  a 
more  pliant  disposition  than  General  Clavering,  and  regulates 
his  conduct  more  from  policy  and  less  from  passion." 

Alexander  Elliot  returned  to  India  in  1777,  and  was  warmly 
welcomed  by  the  Gk)vemor-General  and  by  his  friend  Bogle. 
But  his  early  promise  was  cut  off  by  an  untimely  end.    He  was 

>  Oleig'B  '  Memoirs  of  Warren  HastiDgs/  ii.  p.  123. 

k 


exlTi 


DEATH  OF  ALEXANDEB  ELLIOT. 


[Ihtb. 


on  his  way  to  Nagpore,  charged  with  an  important  misaiony 
when  he  died  of  feyer,  in  1778,  in  Orissa,  where  he  was  buried, 
and  Warren  Hastings  caused  a  monument  to  be  erected  oyer 
his  graye.^  He  touchingly  alluded  to  his  young  friend  in  a 
fine  paraphrase  of  Horace's  Ode  xyi.  lib.  2  {OHam  Divos)^ 
which  he  wrote  on  his  way  home  from  Bengal  in  1785 : 

"  An  early  death  was  Elliot's  doom. 
I  saw  his  opening  yirtnes  bloom, 
And  manly  sense  nnfold : 
Too  soon  to  fade  I    I  bade  the  stone 
Record  his  name  midst  hordes  unknown, 
Unlmowing  what  it  told.** ' 

Bogle  wrote :  "  I  cannot  pass  over  the  name  of  poor  Elliot 
without  a  heayy  heart,  I  neyer  had,  I  never  can  have,  so 
strong  an  esteem — I  should  say  veneration — for  anyone  as  I  had 
for  him,  and  I  was  happy  beyond  everybody  in  his  friendship. 
I  had  not  a  thought  that  I  concealed  from  him.  He  had  none 
that  he  concealed  from  me.  But,  alas  I  he  is  gone  for  ever." 
In  three  short  years  the  friend  who  wrote  these  lines  was  to 
follow  young  Elliot  to  the  grave,* 


>  Bir  Gilbert  EUiot  wiote,  in  1781  : 
'*  The  hononr  paid  by  the  Govemment 
to  my  brother's  memory  is  extremely 
affecting  to  ns,  and  gives  ns  the  highest 
satisfaction  of  which  this  snbjeot  is 
capable;  and  the  share  which  the 
friendship  of  Mr.  Hastings  has  taken  in 
it,  at  the  same  time  that  it  adds  so 
mnch  to  the  honour  intended  to  my 
brother,  reflects  some  part  of  it  on  the 
warmth  and  sincerity  of  his  own  cha- 
racter, and  demands  the  aflfection  and 
gratitude  of  all  those  who  knew  my 
brother."  It  is  melancholy  to  reflect 
that  all  this  was  insincere,  and  that  Sir 
Gilbert,  in  five  short  years,  became,  in 
conjunction  with  Burke  and  Sheridan, 
one  of  the  most  virulent  traducers  of 
his  brother's  best  and  truest  friends, 
for  whom,  in  this  letter,  he  expresses  so 
much  gratitude  and  affection. 
*  It  is  addressed  to  Mr.  Shore,  after- 


wards Lord  Teignmouth,  and  was  pub- 
lished in  the  '  Asiatic  Journal  *  (First 
Series),  vi.  p.  619. 

'  Sogle  was  one  of  Alexander  Elliofs 
executors;  the  other  was  Mr.  daiid 
Alexander.  This  led  to  a  correspond- 
ence with  Sir  Gilbert  Elliot,  com- 
menced by  Bogle  in  a  letter  dated 
December  7,  1778,  announcing  hia 
friend's  death.  On  February  10, 1781, 
Sir  Gilbert  writes :  "  Give  me  leave  to 
entreat  some  portion  of  that  affection 
and  confldence  which  my  poor  brother 
possessed,  and  which  I  have  occasion  to 
know  he  valued  so  highly.  On  my 
part  I  can  freely  offer  you  my  heart. 
Our  poor  Alick  had  prepared  us  all  for 
such  a  union,  and  it  is  now  become 
both  a  duty  iu  some  degree  to  our 
common  friend,  and  a  consolation  in 
our  common  loss."  Bogle  did  not  live 
to  receive  this  letter. 


Into.]  BOGLE'S  APPOINTMENT  TO  BANQPUB.  oxlvii 

Warren  Hastings  had  no  intention  of  losing  the  results  to 
be  deriyed  from  Bogle's  first  mission  to  Tibet,  and  the  friend- 
ship he  had  formed  for  the  Teshu  Lama.  He  resolved  to  con- 
tinue the  same  policy,  with  a  view  to  establishing  free  com- 
mercial intercourse  between  Tibet  and  Bengal.  On  the  19th 
of  April,  1779,  Greorge  Bogle  was  *^  appointed  to  proceed  again 
to  Bhutan  and  Tibet,  for  the  purpose  of  cultivating  and  im- 
proving the  good  understanding  subsisting  between  the  chiefs 
of  those  countries  and  the  Government,  and  to  endeavour  to 
establish  a  free  and  lasting  intercourse  of  trade  with  the 
kingdom  of  Tibet,  and  the  other  states  to  the  northward  of 
Bengal."  ^  In  the  course  of  the  summer  news  arrived  that  the 
Teshu  Lama  had  undertaken  a  journey  to  Peking,  and  the 
mission  was  consequently  postponed.  Mr.  Bogle  then  wrote 
the  important  memorandum,  proposing  to  meet  the  Lama  at 
Peking,  which  is  printed  at  p.  207.  In  September,  1779,  Mr. 
Bogle  was  appointed  to  succeed  Mr.  Purling  as  Collector  of 
Bangpur,  where  he  was  on  the  high  road  to  Bhutan,  and  in 
a  position  to  encourage  commercial  intercourse,  and  to  super- 
intend the  annual  fair.  He  writes  to  his  sister  Anne :  ''  I  am 
at  length  fetirly  out  of  Calcutta  again,  and  although  not  in  my 
Bhutan  hills,  I  am  within  sight  of  them.  Yet  I  felt  a  pang  at 
leaving  Mr.  Hastings,  for  whose  character  and  abilities  I  hare 
a  respect  bordering  on  veneration.^'  To  his  brother  Robert, 
who  by  this  time  had  returned  home  to  Daldowie,  he  writes,  on 
18th  of  January,  1780 :  "  I  have  schemes  and  prefects  for  intro- 
ducing new  articles  of  commerce  through  Bhutan,  and  of  per- 
fecting what  has  already  cost  me  so  much  trouble.  The  narrow- 
minded  jealousy  of  the  Bhutanese  opposes  obstacles,  but  my 

>  His  monthly  aUowances  during  this  service  were  to  have  been : 

SlkkARs. 

Lieut-Colonel's  pay  and  double  batta      1488 

Fizedsalaiy 1000 

Contingencies,  including  servants,  interpreters,  &c.      ..      500 

2988 

k  2 


oxlviii  CORRESPONDENCE  WHILE  AT  RANGPXfR.  [Ihtr. 

situation  here  leads  me  at  least  to  make  an  attempt.  It  is  pro- 
bable, when  I  have  settled  the  business  of  Bangpnr,  that  I  may 
take  a  month's  trip  into  the  hills.  But  I  shall  regret  the 
absence  of  my  friend  the  Teshu  Lama,  for  whom  I  have  a 
hearty  liking,  and  should  be  happy  again  to  have  his  fat  hand 
on  my  head.*'  He  had  already  transmitted  25002.  of  his 
savings  towards  paying  off  the  debt  on  Daldowie,  and  in  this 
letter  he  expresses  a  hope  of  being  able  to  send  home  15002.  a 
year  in  future.^  This  generous  conduct  could  not  have  been 
adopted  without  much  self-denial ;  and  was  a  practical  proof  of 
his  affectionate  disposition  and  loye  for  his  relations  and  his  old 
home. 

During  his  residence  at  Rangpiir,  George  Bogle  received 
many  letters  from  Warren  Hastings,  Mrs.  Hastings,  Sir  Elijah 
and  Lady  Impey,  which  show  the  intimate  terms  of  friendship 
he  was  on  with  them.  The  Governor-General,  especially, 
discussed  all  the  public  news  with  his  young  friend,  and  in  one 
letter  says  how  much  he  is  missed  at  Calcutta,  especially  in 
draughting  despatches  to  the  Directors.  On  the  27th  of 
January,  1780,  the  Governor-General  writes:  ^I  hare  missed 
you  much,  for  I  am  a  very  bad  law  casuist,^  and  our  letters 
home,  though  they  contain  abundance  of  good  matter,  and  are 
well  ex[^essed,  yet  want  that  method  and  entireness  which 
fix  the  subjects  on  the  memory."  Hastings  frequently  sent 
him  packets  of  seeds :  on  one  occasion  some  seeds  of  hyson  tea, 
"  to  aid  your  benevolent  plan  of  introducing  the  luxuries  and 
elegances  of  our  world  into  that  of  Bhutan."  On  the  Ist 
of  March,  1780,  Warren  Hastings  wrote  a  letter  to  Bogle,  in 
which  he  enters  very  fully  upon  the  properties  of  Bhutan 
cinnamon,  which  he  correctly  suspects  to  be  a  cassia,  and  asks 

>  He  sent  home  altogether  4500/.  ment  aiiA  the  Judges  wiH  be  foand  in 

'  He  was  in  the  thick  of  his  battle  chap.  vii.  of  the  '  Memoirs  of  Sir  Elijah 

with  the  Judges.    He  calls  it  ''a  serious  Impey,*  by  his  son.   An  aooount  which 

and  decided  war,  which  gives  me  much  cannot  be  so  designated  is  given  in 

uneasiness."    A  true  aooount  of  the  Macaulay's   'Essay  on  Warren  Has- 

misunderstanding  between  the  Govern-  tings.' 


* 

IMTB.]  GOBRESPONDENCB  WHILB  AT  BANGPI&.  oxUz 

him  to  procure  samples  of  the  branches  and  roots  for  analysis. 
He  adds,  '^You  would  wonder  that  I  conid  write  to  you  on 
such  trifles,  if  you  knew  what  mighty  concerns  pressed  upon 
my  mind.  But  I  do  not  think  this  altogether  a  trifle ;  and  if 
it  was,  trifles  are  a  relief  to  me." 

On  the  14th  of  March,  1780,  Bogle  wrote  to  his  father  that 
Mr.  Barwell,  the  second  in  Council,  who  uniformly  supported 
the  Goyemor-General,  had  sailed  for  England.^  In  that  year 
Bogle  held  a  fair  at  Bangpiir.  **  There  was  a  great  concourse 
of  Bhutan  merchants,  who,  having  been  excused  all  duties  and 
left  to  the  freedom  of  their  own  will  in  buying  and  selling, 
went  away  very  well  satisfied."  This  measure  had  a  most 
satisfactory  efiect,  and  the  Bangpur  fair  was  continued  for 
many  years. 

The  last  letter  written  by  Mr,  Bogle,  that  has  been  pre- 
served, is  dated  at  Bangpur,  on  the  28th  of  October,  1780,  and 
is  addressed  to  his  father.  The  old  man  wrote  to  his  son  on  the 
5th  of  December  of  the  same  year,  from  Daldowie,  saying, 
**  Accept  of  these  few  lines  from  your  aflTectionate  parent,  now 
running  his  eightieth  year  in  good  health,  and  who,  with  the 
highest  gratitude,  very  often  reflects  on  the  substantial  great 
favour  you  laid  him  under  in  clearing  off  the  debt  on  Daldowie, 
by  which  it  may  be  continued  in  the  family." 

On  the  16tii  of  January,  1781,  the  Collector  of  Bangpur 
received  the  following  letter  from  the  Grovemor-General : 

"  Dear  Bogle, — It  is  determined  to  dissolve  the  Provincial 
Couircfls,  and  to  appoint  a  Committee  of  Bevenue  at  Calcutta, 
which  will  have  the  immediate  charge  of  all  the  collections  in 
the  provinces.  This  Committee  will  consist  of  Anderson, 
Croftes,  and  yoursell  Perhaps  a  fourth  will  be  added.  If  you 
axe  pleased  with  your  appointment  to  it,  come  immediately  to 

>  On  the  foUowing  17th  of  Aagurt,      went   home,    leftving    the   Goyemor- 
Warren  Hastings  fonght  his  dnel  with      General  in  fuU  poflBeasion  of  the  field. 
Francis,  and  soon  afterwards  Francis 


ol  DEATH  AND  CHABAGTER  OF  MB.  BOGLE.  [Intb 

Calcutta.     If  you  are  not,  stay  where  you  are,  and  I  will  nomi- 
nate another ;  but  I  should  be  sorry  to  lose  you. 

"  Tours  affectionately, 

"Wabren  Hastings." 

On  the  receipt  of  this  letter  George  Bogle  proceeded  to 
Calcutta  without  delay,  to  enter  upon  his  new  duties.  There 
he  was  attacked  by  a  fatal  illness,  and  died  on  the  3rd  of 
April,  1781,  at  the  early  age  of  thirty-four. 

The  character  of  George  Bogle  is  shown  by  the  facts  of  his 
life  here  briefly  stated,  by  his  letters,  and  by  the  journal 
and  other  documents  relating  to  the  Tibet  mission.  His  selec- 
tion to  fill  post  after  post  of  responsibility  and  difficulty,  by  so 
sagacious  an  administrator  as  Warrejb  Hastings,  is  a  sufficient 
proof  that  Bogle  was  an  able,  zealous,  and  hard-working  public 
servant  His  letters  show  that  he  was  an  affectionate,  warm- 
hearted, and  generous  man ;  and  his  journal  in  Tibet  is  that  of 
a  singularly  calm  and  cautious  diplomatist,  possessed  of  an 
inexhaustible  fund  of  patience  and  good  humour.  The  friend- 
ship he  formed  for  the  Teshu  Lama  and  his  family,  which  was 
evidently  much  more  than  a  mere  passing  feeling,  is  an 
interesting  trait  in  his  character.^ 

Robert  Bogle  eventually  succeeded  his  father  at  Daldowie, 
but  all  the  brothers  and  sisters  died  unmarried  except  the 
eldest,  Martha,  who  married  Mr.  Thomas  Brown  of  Langside.' 

^  The  foUowing  notice  of  the  death  extensive  knowledge  of  the  soienoe  of 

of  George  Bogle  appeared  in  one  of  the  oommeroe,  and  of  the  affairs  of  the 

Glasgow  papers  at  the  time :  Hononrable  Company  in  the  East  is  an 

*' We  hear  from  Bengal  that  George  incontestable  proof  of  the  first;*  as 


Bogle,  Esq.,  Chief   and  Resident  of  aoconnt  of  Tibet  and  of  his  jonmey  as 

Rnngpoor,  son  of  George  Bogle,  Esq.,  enyoy  to  that  undesoribed  country  pre- 

of  Daldowie,  N.B.,  died  at  Calcutta,  on  sented  to  the  Royal  Society  wiU  be  a 

the  3rd  of  April,  1781.     In  him  the  permanent  and  hononrable  monmnent 

East  India  Company  has  lost  a  dis-  of  the  last*' 

interested,    inteUigent,    and    upright  *  Mr.  Robert  Bogle  of  Daldowie,diod 

servant.     His  relations   have    reason  on  the  lOth  of  August,  1808.    Hiss 

long  to  lament  his  amiable,  kind,  and  Anne,  George's  fovourite  sister,  died 

affectionate  disposition,  and  the  world  at  Daldowie,  on  the  18th  of  Septem- 

a   generous,    ftiendly,    and    valuable  ber,  1824  ;  and  Martha  (Mrs.  Brown), 

member  of  society.    His  courage  and  on  the  23rd  of  August,  1820. 


IHTB.]  LETTER  OF  HASTINGS  TO  DR.  JOHNSON.  di 

Dr.  Thomas  Brown,  the  eldest  son  by  this  marriage  (a  physician 
in  Glasgow),  was  of  Langside  in  Benfrewshire,  where  Mary 
Queen  of  Scots  was  -defeated,  and  of  Lanfine  in  Ayrshire.    He 
married  Marion,  sister  of  Lord  Jeffrey.    Their  son,  Thomas 
Brown  of  Waterhaugbs  and  Lanfine,  was  the  author  of  *  Borgia, 
a  Tragedy,'  and  other  poems,  and  was  a  man  of  ability  and 
literary  attainments.    At  one  time  he  contemplated  the  pre- 
paration of  the  Bogle  manuscripts  for  pablication,  and  con- 
sulted his  uncle,  Lord  Jeffrey,  on  the  subject.    But  he  neyer 
found  time  to  carry  out  his  intentioiL      He  died  in  1873, 
and  was  succeeded  by  his  sister,  Miss  Martha  Brown,  now  of 
Lanfine. 

George  Bogle,  if  he  had  been  spared,  had  fally  intended  to 
pubUsh  the  journal  of  his  mission  to  Tibet ;  and  the  letter  from 
"Warren  Hastings,  already  quoted,^  shows  that  the  Governor- 
General  considered  that  this  interesting  narrative  should  be 
given  to  the  world.    In  another  letter,  to  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson, 
dated  the  7th  of  August,  1775,  Mr.  Hastings  referred  to  the  same 
Sfubject,  and  enclosed  a  copy  of  Bogle's  journal.   **  When  I  read 
the  account  of  your  visit  to  the  Hebrides,"  he  continues,  *'  I 
could  not  help  wishing  that  a  portion  of  that  spirit  which  could 
draw  so  much  entertainment  and  instruction  from  a  region  so 
little  befriended  by  nature,  or  improved  by  the  arts  of  society, 
could  have  animated  Mr.  Bogle,  the  author  of  this  journal,  but 
I  flatter  myself  that  you  will  find  it  not  unworthy  of  perusal.    I 
confess  I  received  great  pleasure  from  it,  and  I  assure  myself, 
that  whatever  originality  you  may  discover  in  the  description 
of  the  countries  and  inhabitants  of  which  it  treats,  you  will  at 
least  be  pleased  with  the  amiable  character  of  the  Lama.   I  am 
airaid  it  may  look  like  an  ill  compliment,  after  having  desired 
your  acceptance  of  this  production,  to  tell  you  that  I  have 
endeavoured  to  prevail  on  the  writer  to'  put  it  into  a  more 
connected  form,  and  to  send  it,  with  some  additional  materials, 
to  England  for  publication.    If  it  would  not  be  assuming  too 

'  See  p.  cxli. 


olii 


PBOJEGTS  FOR  PUBLICATION. 


[Ihtb. 


great  a  liberty,  I  should  request  to  be  favoured  with  your 
opinion  upon  the  propriety  of  this  intention/'  ^ 

In  1777,  Mr.  Stewart,  F.B.S.,  returned  from  India,  and  in  a 
letter  to  Sir  John  Pringle,  dated  March  20, 1777,  he  gave  an  in- 
teresting account  of  Bogle's  mission  to  Tibet,  saying  that  he  had 
reason  to  believe  that  the  Envoy  would  himself  give  a  relation 
of  his  journey  to  the  world,  but  that  in  the  meanwhile  he  pre- 
sented a  few  particulars  such  as  his  recollection  of  Mr.  Bogle's 
letters  and  papers  enabled  him  to  draw  up.  Mr.  Stewart's 
letter  was  read  at  a  meeting  of  the  Royal  Society,  on  the  I7th 
of  April,  1777.^  This  is  the' first  and,  until  now,  the  only 
account  of  Bogle's  mission  that  has  seen  the  light 

The  untimely  death  of  Greorge  Bogle,  the  weighty  affairs 
which  fully  occupied  the  time  of  the  Governor-General  during 
the  next  four  years,  and  the  long  persecution  to  which  he  was 
subjected  after  his  return  home,  prevented  the  project  of 
publishing  the  narrative  of  the  Tibet  mission  from  being 
carried  into  effect.  But  copies  of  the  documents  relating  to 
it  remained  in  the  possession  of  Warren  Hastings  until  his 
death.'  Mr.  William  Markham,  the  eldest  son  of  the  Arch- 
bishop of  York,  arrived  in  India  in  1778,  and  was  Private 
Secretary  to  Warren  Hastings  during  the  time  that  the 
measures  connected  with  an  intended  second  mission  to  Tibet 
were  under  consideration,  in  1779.  He  took  great  pains  to 
collect  information  on  the  subject,  and  preserved  copies  of  por- 


'  Oleig's  '  Memoirs  of  Warren  Has- 
tings/ ii.  p.  19.  Dr.  Johnson  died  in 
1784,  before  the  return  of  Warren  Has- 
tings to  England. 

*  Printed  in  the  '  Philosophical  Trans- 
actions'  for  1777,  Tol.  Ixvii.  part  ii. 
pp.  465-488,  with  the  title,  *'An  Ao- 
count  of  the  Kingdom  of  Thibet,  in  a 
Letter  from  John  Stewart,  Esq.,  F.B.S., 
to  Sir  John  Pringle,  Bart.,  F.R.S."  The 
letter  is  followed  by  a  translation  of 
the  Teehu  Lama's  letter,  at  p.  1. 

The  letter  of  Mr.  Stewart  was  trans- 
lated into  French,  and  published  with 
three  other  short  narratiyes  of  travels. 


by  •*  Bryltophend,"  in  a  small  Tolome. 
(Pekin,  1789,  et  se  tronye  k  Paris.) 

'  Mr.  Gleig  published  an  extract 
from  the  Letter  of  Instmotions  to  Mr. 
Bogle  (p.  7  of  this  volume),  and  the 
Memorandum  of  Priyate  Gommissioiis 
(p.  8).  But  it  would  appear  that  Mr. 
Gleig  had  had  a  copy  of  the  whole 
journal  in  his  possession,  for  he  spealm 
of  not  being  justified  in  giying  a  de- 
tailed account  of  the  mission,  as  if  he 
could  haye  done  so  had  he  seen  fli» 
C  Memoirs  of  Warren  Hastings,'  i. 
p.  40.) 


Ihtb.] 


PROJECTS  FOR  PUBLICATION. 


oliu 


tions  of  Mr.  Bogle's  journal  during  the  first  mission,  especially 
those  in  which  the  conversations  with  the  Teshu  Lama  are  re- 
corded.^ Mr.  Markham's  copy  was  deposited  in  the  library 
at  Becca,  his  seat  in  Yorkshire,  and  its  discovery  originated 
the  investigations  which  led  to  the  preparation  of  the  present 
volume.* 

Among  George  Bogle's  papers  there  is  a  short  memorandum, 
probably  the  last  thing  he  ever  wrote,  desiring  that  all  his 
letters  may  be  sealed  up  and  sent  to  Mr.  Anderson.  It  ends : 
''The  letters  directed  to  Anderson  and  Alexander  I  request 
may  be  sent  in  the  securest  manner.  Farewell."  These  two 
civilians  were  probably  Bogle's  executora,  and  the  whole  of  the 
papers  appear  to  have  been  transmitted  to  Daldowie.  Mr. 
Bobert  Bogle  always  intended  to  publish  them,  but  he  put 
it  off  from  year  to  year  owing  to  the  di£Sculty  in  meeting  with 
anyone  qualified  to  correct  and  arrange  them  properly  for  the 
press.  At  last  he  became  acquainted  with  Mr.  Alexander 
Dalrymple,^  the  well-known  geographer  to  the  East  India 


>  Fonning  chapter  xiy.  of  the  pre- 
sent Yoliime,  p.  180. 

*  William  Markham  was  bom  in 
1760 ;  was  sent  to  Westminster  School, 
and,  like  VTarren  HastingB  before  him, 
got  bead  into  coUeg;e.  He  went  out  to 
India  in  1777,  as  Private  Secretary  to 
the  Governor-General,  a  post  which  he 
held  for  three  years,  and  early  in  1781 
he  was  appointed  Besident  at  Benazee, 
during  a  most  critical  period,  indnding 
the  revolt  of  Oheyt  Sing.  There  are 
three  interesting  letters  from  Warren 
Hastings  to  Mr.  Markham,  at  Benares, 
in  Gleig's  'Memoirs,'  ii.  pp.  484,  591. 
In  1788  Mr.  Markham  retnmed  to 
England,  and  rendered  the  most  effi- 
cient assistanoe  to  his  revered  chief 
daring  the  whole  of  his  tedions  trial. 
There  is  a  letter  from  Warren  Hastings, 
preserved  at  Becoa,  expressing  the 
warmest  gratitode  for  this  loyal  aid. 
Mr.  Markham  died  at  Beooa  Hall,  his 
seat  in  Yorkshire,  in  January,  1815, 
leaving  eight  children. 


*  Alexander  Dalrymple,  the  seventh 
out  of  sixteen  ohUdren  of  Sir  James 
DahTmple,  was  bom  at  New  Hailes, 
on  the  24th  of  July,  1737.  He  went 
out  to  Madras  as  a  writer  in  1752,  and 
acquired  much  nantioal  experience 
dnring  a  voyage  to  the  Eastern  Archi- 
pelago in  1759.  In  1776  he  was  ap- 
pointed a  Member  of  Council  at  Madras^ 
and  finally  retnmed  home  in  1777.  In 
1779  he  was  appointed  Hydrographer 
to  the  East  India  Company,  and  was  a 
most  nntiring  and  indnstrions  work- 
man. He  translated  and  published  a 
valuable  coUection  of  voyages  in  the 
Pacific,  gave  innumerable  tracts  to  the 
world,  and  produced  many  hundreds  of 
useful  charts  and  plans  of  harbours. 
He  also  brought  out  the  *  Oriental 
Bepertory,'  in  two  vols.  In  1795  he 
was  appointed  Hydrographer  to  the 
Admiralty,  but  was  dismissed  in  1808. 
This  unjust  treatment  broke  the  old 
man's  heart,  and  he  died  the  same 
year. 


oliv  PRESERVATION  OF  THE  BOQLE  MANUSCRIPTS.       [Ihtr. 

Company  of  that  day,  who  voluntarily  offered  his  assistance. 
In  a  letter  from  Bobert  Bogle  to  Dalrymple,  dated  at  Daldowie, 
the  28th  of  January,  1792,  an  arrangement  for  handing  over  the 
manuscripts  was  made ;  and  it  seems  that  a  volume,  contain- 
ing a  copy  of  the  reports  of  Greorge  Bogle's  conversations  with 
the  Deb  Bajah  and  the  Teshu  Lama,  was  actually  entrusted  to 
Dalyrmple.  But  no  publication  ever  took  place,  and  at  the 
sale  of  Dalrymple's  library  this  Bogle  manuscript  was  bought 
by  Lord  Yalentia.  At  the  Arley  Castle  sale  it  was  purchased  by 
Messrs.  Boone,  of  whom  the  Trustees  of  the  British  Museum 
bought  it  in  1838.  It  is  now  in  the  British  Museum.  It 
would  appear  from  the  notice  in  the  Glasgow  paper,^  that 
another  copy  was  presented  to  the  Boyal  Society.  The  only 
document  relating  to  Bogle's  mission,  which  has  been  preserved 
among  the  records  at  Calcutta  and  in  the  India  Office,  is  the 
report  on  the  trade  of  Tibet.^ 

Searches  have  frequently  been  made  for  the  complete 
journal  of  George  Bogle,  and  for  other  papers  relating  to  his 
mission  to  Tibet,  both  in  India  and  in  this  country,  but  without 
success.  At  length,  thanks  to  the  liberal  kindness  of  Miss 
Martha  Brown  of  Lanfine,  the  representative  of  the  family, 
and  to  the  care  of  Mr.  Gairdner  of  Eilmamock,  who  judiciously 
sorted  and  arranged  the  great  accumulation  of  papers,  the  com- 
plete narrative  of  George  Bogle's  important  mission  to  Tibet  is 
now  presented  to  the  world. 

*  Note  at  p.  oL  '  Comprised  in  chapter  xiii.  of  this  yolnme. 


Intb.]  birth  and  education  of  MR.  MANNING.  cJv 


BIOGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 


OF 


THOMAS   MANNING. 


Thomas  Manning  is  the  only  Englishman  who  has  ever  visited 
Lhasa  and  seen  the  Dalai  Lama.  He  was  the  second  son  of  the 
Rererend  William  Manning,  Hector  of  Diss,  in  Norfolk,  and  was 
bom  at  his  father's  first  living  of  Broome,  in  the  same  county, 
on  the  8th  of  November,  1772.  Owing  to  ill  health  in  early 
life,  he  was  obliged  to  forego  the  advantages  of  a  public  school ; 
but  under  his  fiftther's  roof  he  was  a  close  student  of  both 
classics  and  mathematics,  and  became  an  eager  disciple  of  the 
philosophy  of  Plato.  On  his  recovery  he  went  to  Caius  College, 
Cambridge,  and  studied  intensely,  especially  mathematics. 
While  at  Cambridge  he  published  a  work  on  algebra,  in  1796 
(two  vols.  8vo),  and  a  smaller  book  on  arithmetic.  He  passed 
the  final  examination,  and  was  expected  to  be  at  least  second 
vn^ngler,  but  his  strong  repugnance  to  oaths  and  tests  debarred 
him  from  academic  honours  and  preferments,  and  he  left  the 
University  without  a  degree.  At  Cambridge  Manning  was  the 
friend  of  Person.  He  also  made  the  acquaintance  of  Charles 
Lamb,  with  whom  he  regularly  corresponded. 

After  he  had  lived  at  Cambridge  for  some  years,  he  began 
to  brood  over  the  mysterious  empire  of  China,  and  devoted  his 
time  to  an  investigation  of  the  language  and  arts  of  the 
Chinese,  and  the  state  of  their  country.  He  resolved  to  enter 
the  Celestial  Empire  at  all  hazards,  and  to  prosecute  his  re- 
searches till  death  stopped  him,  or  until  he  should  return  with 
success.    To  enable  him  to  undertake  this  hazardous  enterprise. 


cM  MANNING  GOES  TO  CHINA.  (Tntb. 

he  studied  the  Chinese  language  under  the  tuition  of  Dr.  Hagar, 
in  France,  and  afterwards,  w^th  the  aid  of  a  Chinese,  in  London. 
When  the  English  travellers  were  seized  by  Napoleon  on  the 
breaking  out  of  war  in  1803,  Manning  obtained  leave  to  quit 
France,  entirely  owing  to  the  respect  in  which  his  undertaking 
was  held  by  the  learned  men  at  Paria  His  passport  was  the 
only  one  that  Napoleon  ever  signed  for  an  Englishman  to  go  to 
England  after  war  began.^ 

In  the  collection  of  Charles  Lamb's  letters  there  are  thirty- 
three  to  Thomas  Manning,^  and  those  attempting  to  dissuade 
him  from  undertaking  his  Chinese  enterprise  are  very  humor- 
ous. On  the  19th  of  February,  1803,  Lamb  wrote  to  his  friend, 
^SS}^  ^^^  ^  S^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^^  visiting  Independent  Tatary 
out  of  his  head.  He  tells  Manning  that  the  reading  of  Chaucer 
has  misled  him,  with  his  foolish  stories  about  Cambuscan  and 
the  ring,  and  the  horse  of  brass.  ''  Believe  me,"  he  continues, 
*'  there  are  no  such  things.  'Tis  all  the  poet's  invention.  A 
horse  of  brass  never  flew,  and  a  king's  daughter  never  talked 
with  birds.  These  are  all  tales.  Pray  try  and  cure  yourselfl 
Take  hellebore.  Pray  to  avoid  the  fiend.  Bead  no  more  books 
of  voyages ;  they  are  nothing  but  lies." 

But  Manning  was  quite  resolved.  On  the  31st  of  March» 
1806,  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  the  President  of  the  Boyal  Society, 
addressed  a  letter  to  the  chairman  of  the  Court  of  Directors, 
explaining  the  objects  of  Manning's  undertaking,  and  his  con- 
viction that  unless  he  could  assume  the  manners  and  dress 
of  the  Chinese  with  the  utmost  exactness,  and  speak  their 
language  with  purity  and  a  proper  accent,  he  could  never  suc- 
ceed. He  desired,  therefore,  to  proceed  to  Canton,  in  the  first 
instance,  to  acquire  these  difficult  accomplishmenta ;  and  Sir 
Joseph  Banks,  believing  that  Mr.  Manning  was  likely  to  succeed, 
requested  the  Directors  to  assist  his  earnest  endeavours  to  accom- 
plish this  great  purpose.    Sir  Joseph  concluded  his  letter  thns : 

'  *  Notes  and  Queries,'  Second  Beries,  x.  143. 

3  There  are  a  few  more  in  Talfourd.    '  Final  Memorial^.' 


IHTB.]  MANNING  GOBS  TO  CALCUTTA.  clvii 

**  For  my  part  I  take  a  deep  interest  in  the  feite  of  this  very 
amiable  young  man,  both  on  account  of  his  mild  character  and 
the  energies  of  his  mind,  and  I  shall  feel  infinite  obligation  to 
youy  Sir,  and  to  the  Court,  if  my  application  has  any  effect  in 
deciding  them  to  grant  the  favour  he  solicits."  ^ 

Thus  strongly  recommended,  Thomas  Manning  went  out  to 
China  in  one  of  the  Company's  ships,  in  1806,  and  took  up  his 
abode  in  the  English  factory  at  Canton.  Auber  mentions  that, 
in  February,  1808,  Manning  made  a  trip  from  Canton  to  Cochin 
China.  Charles  Lamb  continued  to  correspond  with  his  ''  old 
adventuring  friend,  who  had  gone  to  wander  among  the  Tartars," 
during  the  time  of  Manning's  residence  at  Canton,  which  lasted 
from  1807  to  1810. 

The  Select  Committee  at  Canton  addressed  a  letter  to  Lord 
Minto,  the  Governor-General  of  India,  dated  19th  February, 
1810,  in  which  they  introduced  Mr.  Manning,  who  was  about  to 
proceed  to  Calcutta,  and  who  had  been  permitted  to  reside  in 
the  Company's  factory,  at  Canton,  during  the  previous  three 
years.  ^  The  object  of  this  gentleman's  visit  to  China,"  they 
said,  '^has  been  to  qualify  himself,  by. studying  the  Chinese 
language  and  customs,  to  explore  the  country.  In  these  pur- 
suits he  has  made  considerable  progress,  but  finding  his  ulti- 
mate views  impracticable  from  this  quarter,  he  proceeds  to 
Calcutta,  and  will  personally  explain  his  future  plans.  As  we 
consider  Mr.  Manning  eminently  qualified  for  the  task  he  has 
undertaken,  we  anxiously  hope  your  lordship  will  not  consider 
it  improper  to  afford  Mr.  Manning  every  practicable  assistance 
in  the  prosecution  of  his  plcms,  and  this  we  beg  to  solicit  in  his 
behalt" 

Accordingly,  Mr.  Manning  proceeded  to  Calcutta,  and  the 

-  ■  This  letter  is  preseryed  among  the  Peter   Aaber.    (London,    1834.)    Mr. 

records  of  the  India  Offioe.  It  is  printed  Anber  mentions  Ifanning  as  one  of 

in  full,  together  with  the  reply  of  the  many  doctors  who  applied  to  go  to 

Court  of  Directors  granting  the  per-  China  in  1806,  through    Sir   Joseph 

mission  sought  for,  in '  China :  an  Out-  Banks,  with  a  view  to  exploring  the 

line  of  its  Gtovernment,  Laws,  Ac.,*  by  interior. 


olTiii  THE  JOUBNEY  TO  LHASA.  [Ims. 

Gk)vemoi^Gen6ral  in  Council  replied,  on  the  16th  of  June, 

1810,  *'  We  shall  not  fail  to  pay  due  attention  to  your  recom- 
mendation of  Mr.  Manning  by  affording  him  every  practicable 
assistance  in  the  prosecution  of  his  scientific  pursuits."  But 
the  great  statesman  who  opened  up  friendly  intercourse  between 
Bengal  and  Tibet,  in  the  days  of  Bogle  and  Turner,  was  shelved 
at  Daylesford.  In  his  place  was  one  of  the  managers  of  his 
prosecution,  and  the  days  of  small  half  measures  had  arrived. 
Mr.  H.  T.  Prinsep  remembered  Manning  at  Calcutta,  as  wear- 
ing a  &ncy  dress,  which  he  said  was  that  of  a  Tatar  gentleman  ; 
but  with  his  broad  English  face  and  full  flowing  beard,  as  look- 
ing as  little  like  a  Tatar  as  any  son  of  Adam  one  might  meet 
in  London.  He  was  fSSted  and  lionized  at  Calcutta,  and,  after 
a  few  months,  set  out  with  his  Chinese  servant  to  Rangpur, 
and  thence  started  on  his  expedition.^  He  appears  to  have 
received  little  or  no  aid  from  the  Government ;  to  have  been  left 
entirely  to  his  own  resources  without  ofBcial  recognition  of  any 
kind,  and  all  the  credit  of  his  extraordinary  journey  is  solely 
due  to  himself.  Whether  his  disguise  was  effectual  or  not,  he 
succeeded  in  reaching  Lhasa,  a  feat  which  no  official  has  ever 
yet  achieved.  He  resided  there  for  several  months,  had  inter- 
views with  the  Dalai  Lama,  and  returned  to  Lidia  safely  in 

1811.  He  wrote  from  thence  a  long  and  interesting  account  of 
his  expedition  to  Dr.  Marshman,  which  unfortunately  does  not 
appear  to  have  been  preserved.  It  concluded  by  saying  that, 
having  lived  for  some  time  on  terms  of  good  fellowship  with 
the  Lamas,  and  made  arrangements  for  penetrating  farther  into 
those  unknown  regions,  the  Emperor  of  China  had  sent  for  his 
head ;  but  as  he  preferred  to  retain  it  on  his  shoulders,  he  had 
made  the  best  of  his  way  back.  He  had  hoped  to  have  been 
able  to  proceed  by  Sining  to  China ;  but  what  he  actually  did 
was  sufficient  to  place  him  in  the  first  rank  of  English 
travellers.     His  journal,  fragmentary  though  it  be,  tells  the 

*  Manning's  journey  to   Lhasa   is  Manning  is  also  mentioned  in  the  oor- 

mentioned   in    *  Tibet.   Tartary,    and  respondence  of  Mr.  David  Soott,  among 

Mongolia,'  by  H.  T.  Prinsep  (London,  the  Knch  Bahar  records. 
1852,  2nd   edition),  pp.  17  and    94. 


IMTB.]  JOINS  LOBD  AMHEBSrS  EMBASSY.  clix 

story  in  gafficient  detail;  though  it  consists  merely  of  hasty 
jottings,  sorely  needing  the  revision  of  the  author. 

He  appears  to  have  been  disgusted  with  the  official  treat- 

■ 

ment  he  received ;  and  when  he  returned  to  Calcutta,  he 
would  give  no  one  any  particulars  of  his  journey.  After  a 
short  stay,  he  went  back  to  Canton  by  sea,  and  again  took  up 
his  residence  in  the  factory.  Charles  Lamb  continued  to 
correspond  with  him,  often  urging  him  to  come  home.  On 
the  25th  December,  1815,  he  writes :  "  Still  in  China !  Down 
with  idols — Ching-cbang-fo .  and  all  his  foolish  priesthood. 
Come  out  of  Babylon,  O  my  friend  1 " 

In  1817,  Thomas  Manning  joined  Lord  Amherst's  Embassy 
as  Chinese  interpreter,  and  proceeded  to  Peking.^  The  Am- 
bassador objected  at  first  to  his  beard,  as  incongruous  in  a 
British  Embassy,  bat  consented  to  his  joining  the  mission  on 
his  agreeing  to  change  his  Chinese  dress  for  an  English  one. 
On  the  voyage  home,  H.M.S.  *  Alceste,'  carrying  the  Embassy, 
was  wrecked  in  the  Straits  of  Gaspar,  and  its  members,  reaching 
Batavia,  were  taken  home  in  the  *  Caesar,'  of  London.  In  July, 
1817,  Manning  had  an  interview  with  Napoleon,  at  St.  Helena, 
reminding  the  Emperor  that  he  was  the  only  Englishman  to 
whom  he  had  granted  a  passport  in  1803.  Sir  John  Davis, 
who  was  a  member  of  Lord  Amherst's  mission,  thus  writes  of 
Mr.  Manning : 

*'  I  knew  Manning  well,  and  liked  him  much.  His  eccen- 
tricities were  quite  harmless,  and  concerned  only  himself  per- 
sonally. His  beard  was  merely  continued  from  his  first  adoption 
of  it  previous  to  his  journey  to  Lhasa,  and  gratified  his  natural 
indolence.  He  was  not  liable  to  the  ridicule  of  the  great 
epigrammatist: 

Kcd  rpdyos  WKdoyw  ^fkrroxot  iffri  HKdrvp,' 

'  If  a  beard  of  dimensioiiB  true  wisdom  declare, 
Then  Plato  his  claimB  with  a  he-goat  most  share.' 

'  Bee  '  Journal  of  Lord  AmherBf  b  Embassy  at  Maoao ;  aud  at  p.  61  his 

^Smbaasy  to  China,'  by  flenry  Ellis,  name  oocurs  as  one  of   the  Ohinese 

(London,  1S17.)    At  p.  58  Mr.  Man-  Secretaries,  in  a  list  of  members  of  the 

ning  is  mentioned  as  having  joined  the  Embassy. 


olx  EOGENTBIC  LIFE.  [Iktr 

He  was  seldom  serious,  and  did  not  often  argue  any  matter 
gravely,  but  in  a  tone  of  banter  in  which  he  humorously 
maintained  the  most  monstrous  paradoxes,  his  illustrations 
being  often  highly  laughable.  I  found  him,  in  1813,  on  my 
arrival  in  China,  established  as  a  guest  of  the  East  India 
Company's  establishment,  where  the  table  and  library  were 
excellent,  and  quite  to  his  taste.  He  was  a  very  pleasant 
companion  during  the  Embassy  to  Peking,  but  did  not  keep  a 
journal,  or  at  least  never  published  one.  He  did  everything  in 
his  own  odd  and  eccentric  way.  Being  one  day  roused  by  a 
strange  shouting,  I  went  out  and  discovered  it  was  Manning, 
who,  wishing  to  cross  the  water,  and  finding  nobody  who  would 
attend  to  him,  commenced  a  series  of  howls  like  a  dog,  supple- 
mented by  execrations  derived  from  the  Chinese  vernacular. 
This  led  our  attendant  mandarins  very  naturaUy  to  infer  that 
he  was  mad,  and  they  lost  no  time  in  conveying  him  over  the 
river  to  the  other  side,  which  was  all  he  wanted.  I  was  sorry 
to  part  with  him  in  1817,  at  the  termination  of  the  Embassy, 
when  he  returned  home,  but  have  never  seen  him  since,  nor 
read  anything  of  his  concerning  China.  His  great  firiend  and 
companion,  Samuel  Ball,  a  member  of  the  Athenaeum  Club, 
died  lately,  at  an  age  bordering  on  one  hundred.'* 

Thomas  Manning  returned  to  England,  after  an  absence  of 
nearly  twelve  years,  apparently  a  disappointed  man.  He  was  in 
Italy  from  1827  to  1829,  and  then  went  to  live  in  strict  retire- 
ment at  Bexley,  whence  he  removed  to  a  cottage  near  Dartford, 
called  Orange  Grove.  He  led  a  very  eccentric  life.  It  is 
said  that  he  never  furnished  his  cottage,  but  only  had  a  few 
chairs,  one  carpet,  and  a  large  library  of  Chinese  books.  He 
wore  a  milky  white  beard  down  to  his  waist.  Mr.  Manning 
revised  the  proof-sheets  of  the  *  Reports  on  the  Poor  Laws,* 
published  by  order  of  the  House  of  Conmions,  and  did  other 
work  of  the  same  kind,  but  he  never  published  any  of  the 
results  of  his  Chinese  labours.  Auber,  however,  says  that  he 
drew  up  a  paper  of  observations  on  the  consumption  of  tea  in 


INTB.]  DEATH  OF  1£B.  MANNING.  dxi 

Bhutaiiy  Tibet,  and  Tatary.  In  1838  he  had  a  paralytic  stroke, 
and  in  the  same  year  he  remoyed  to  Bath,  where  he  died  on 
the  2nd  of  May,  1840,  aged  sixty-eight.  He  was  buried  in  the 
Abbey  Ghnroh,  at  Bath,  on  the  8th  of  the  same  month.^ 

Manning  left  behind  him  a  collection  of  letters,  and 
numerous  writings  in  Chinese,  but  no  manuscripts  of  his  own 
sufficiently  advanced  for  publication.  His  brother  presented 
his  Chinese  library  to  the  Boyal  Asiatic  Society.^ 

Through  the  kindness  of  the  Bey.  C.  B.  Manning,  Mr. 
Thomas  Manning's  nephew,  who  is  now  Bector  of  Diss,  the 
rough  notes  of  the  remarkable  journey  to  Lhasa  haye  been 
placed  at  my  disposal,  and  are  now  printed  for  the  first  time. 

>  MoBt  of  the  above  details  of  Mr.  was  written  by  Mr.  A.  J.  Diiiikin»  of 

Manning's  life,  after  his  letnm  from  Dartford. 

China,  are  from  the  *  (Gentleman's  Ma-         '  It  is  still  there,  in  a  separate  case, 

gaune,'  xiv.  N.  S.  p.  97.     This  article  and  caUed  the  **  Ifanning  GoUection." 


NARRATIVE 


OF  THE 


MISSION  OF  MR.  GEORGE  BOGLE  TO  TIBET 


(1774). 


NARKATIVE 


OF  THB 


MISSION  OF  MR.  GEORGE  BOGLE  TO  TIBET 

(1774). 


CHAPTER  I. 

MISSION   TO   TIBET. 

LETTER  FROM  THE  TEBHU  LAHA — AMISSION  TO  TIBET — APPOINTMENT  OF  MR.  BOGLE 

— ^mS  IXBTRUOnONS. 


1. 

Letter  from  the  Tbshu  Lama^  to  Warren  Hastings. 

(Received  March  29, 1774.) 

The  affairs  of  this  quarter  in  every  respect  flourish,     I  am  night 
and  day  employed  in  prayers  for  the  increase  of  your  happiness  and 


*  This  was  a  letter  of  mediatioD,  sent 
at  the  request  of  the  Goyemment  of 
Bhutan.  In  1772  the  Bhutanese,  under 
Deb  Judhur,  descended  into  the  plains, 
and  overran  Kuch  Bahar.  This  aggres- 
sion threatened  the  peace  of  BangpiSr 
and  adjacent  parts  of  Bengal.  Warren 
Hastings,  therefore,  resolved  to  drive 
the  mountaineers  back  into  their  fast- 
nesses. A  battalion  of  native  infantry 
vns  employed  on  this  servica  But  the 
invaders  made  a  desperate  resistance. 
They  defended  the  fort  of  Bahar,  which 
was  stormed  and  taken  by  Captain  John 
Jones,  at  the  head  of  his  troops,  nearly 
one -fourth  of  the  detachment  being 
killed  or  wounded.  Captain  Jones  him- 
self was  wounded.  Soon  afterwards  a 
night  attack  was  made,  at  Chichakotta, 
on  a  small  detachment  under  Lieutenant 
Dickinson  and  Mr.  Purling,  of  226 
rank  and  file,  by  3000  Bhutanese,  who 
were  beaten  off  with  great  loss.  (See 
Letters  from  Warren  Hastings  to  Sir 
George  Colebrooke  and  to  Mr.  Purling. 
'  Memoirs,'  i.  pp.  279  and  295.)  Even- 
tually the  invaders  retreated  into  their 


own  mountainous  country,  followed  by 
our  troops.  Captain  Jones  occupied 
the  Dalim-kotta  Diiar  (Daling)  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills,  and  took  the  fortress 
of  Dalim-kotta  by  assault  in  April, 
1773.  Our  troops  also  defeated  the 
Bhutanese  at  Chichakotta,  and  drove 
them  up  to  Buxa-Diiar.  But  the  troops 
were  decimated  by  disease.  The  malaria 
proved  fatal  to  Captain  Jones  and  many 
other  officers.  The  Bhutan  Govern- 
ment was  however  thoroaghly  alarmed, 
and  entreated  the  Teshu  Lama  of  Tibet 
to  interpose  in  their  favour.  The  Lama 
sent  a  deputation  to  Calcutta,  consist- 
ing of  a  Tibetan  named  Fauna,  and 
a  Hindu  pilgrim  named  Purungir 
Gosain,  who  were  entrusted  with  this 
letter  from  the  Teshu  Lama.  It  is 
given  in  the  introduction  of  *  Turner's 
Embassy,'  p.  ix.  Captain  Turner  speaks 
of  it  '*  as  an  authentic  and  curious 
specimen  of  tiie  Lama's  good  sense, 
humility,  simplicity  of  heart,  and,  above 
all,  of  that  delicacy  of  sentiment  and 
expression  which  could  convey  a  threat 
in  terms  of  meekness  and  supplication." 

B 


2  LETTER  FROM  THE  TE8HU  LAMA.  [Ch.  L 

prosperity.  Having  been  informed  by  travellers  from  yoor  quarter^ 
of  yonr  exalted  &me  and  reputation,  my  hearty  like  the  blossom  of 
spring,  abounds  with  gaiety,^  gladness,  and  joy;  praise^  that  the  star 
of  yoor  fortune  is  in  its  ascension ;  praise  ^  that  happiness  and  ease  are 
the  surrounding  attendants  of  myself  and  family.  Neither  to  molest 
nor  persecute  is  my  aim ;  it  is  even  the  characteristic  of  my  ^  sect  to 
deprive  ourselves  of  the  necessary  refreshment  of  sleep,  should  an 
injury  be  done  to  a  single  individual.  But  in  justice  and  hxmianity 
I  am  informed  you  far  surpass  us.  May  you  ever  adorn  the  seat  of 
justice  and  power,  that  mankind  may,  under  the  shadow  of  your 
bosom,  enjoy  the  blessings  of  happiness  and  ease.*  By  your  favour, 
I  am  the  Bajah  and  Lama  of  this  country,  and  rule  over  numbers '  of 
subjects,  a  particular^  with  which  you  have  no  doubt  been  made 
acquainted  by  travellers  from  these  parts.  I  have  been  repeatedly 
informed  that  you  have  been*  engaged  in  hostilities  against  the  Deb 
Judhur,^®  to  which,  it  is  said,  the  Deb's  own  criminal  conduct,  in 
committing  ravages  and  other  outrages  on  your  frontiers,  has  given  ^^ 
rise.  As  he  is  of  a  rude  and  ignorant  race  (past  times  are  not  desti- 
tute of  instances  of  the  like  misconduct,^'  which  his  own^^  avarice 
tempted  him  to  commit),  it  is  not  unlikely  that  he  has  now  renewed 
those  instances ;  and  the  ravages  and  plunder  which  he  may  have 
committed  on  the  skirts  of  the  Bengal  and  Bahar  provinces  have 
given  you  provocation  to  send  your  vindictive"  army  against  him. 
However,^^  his  party  has  been  defeated,  many  of  his  people  have  been 
killed,  three  forts^*  have  been  taken  from  him,  and  he  has  met  vrith 
the  punishment  he  deserved ;  and  it  is  as  evident  as  the  sun  your 
army  has  been  victorious,  and  that,  if  you  had  been  desirous  of  it, 
you  might,  in  the  space  of  two  days,  have  entirely  extirpated  him, 
for  he  had  not  power  to  resist  your  efforts.    But  I  now  take  upon 

»  Turner's  version  has  country,  "  Turner  has/aw/te. 

«  Turner  has  satisfaction,  "  Turner  omits  own, 

*  Turner  has  praise  be  to  God,  "  Turner  has  avenging, 

*  Turner  has  praise  he  to  Him,  w  Turner  has  nettertheless. 

^  Turner  has  our.  ><  Dalim-kotta,     Ghichakotta,    and 

'  Turner  has  peace  and  affluence,  Buxa.    The  last  was  taken  by  Liea- 

7  Turner  has  a  number,  tenant  Dickinson  and  "  young  Purling,** 

B  Turner  has  circumstance,  of  the  Warren  Hastings  correspondencew 

*  Turner  omits  been,  who  lost  some  men  in  the  retreat,  owing 
1^  Turner  has  Dih  Terria  throughout,  to  the  indiscretion  of  a  native  oflSoer. 

and  Deh,  This  man  would  fight  the  6hutane6e,who 

"  Turner  has  gave.  rolled  down  stones  on  the  rear-guard. 


Cb.  l]  lbtteb  from  the  teshu  lama.  3 

me  to  be  his  mediator^  and  to  represent  to  you  that,  as  the  said 
Deb  Bajah  is  dependent  npon  the  Dalai  Lama,  who  rnles  in  this 
country  with  unlimited  sway  (but  on  account  of  his  being  in  his 
minority,  the  charge  of  the  goyemment  and  administration  for  the 
present  is  committed  to  me),  should  you  persist  in  offering  further 
molestation  to  the  Deb*s  country,  it  will  irritate  both  the  Lama 
and  all  his  subjects  against  you.  Therefore,  from  a  regard  to  our 
religion  and  customs,  I  request  you  will  cease  ^  all  hostilities  against 
him,  and  in  doing  this  you  will  confer  the  greatest  favour  and 
firiendship  upon  me.  I  haye  reprimanded  the  Deb  for  his  past 
conduct,  and  I  hare  admonished  him  to  desist  from  his  evil  practices 
in  future,  and  to  be  submissive  to  you  in  all  matters.^  I  am  per- 
soaded  that  he  will  conform  to  the  advice  which  I  have  given  him, 
and  it  will  be  necessary  that  you  treat  him  with  compassion  and 
clemency.  As  to  my  part,  I  am  but  a  Fakir,  and  it  is  the  custom 
of  my  sect,  with  the  rosary  in  our  hands,  to  pray  for  the  welfsure  of  ^ 
mankind,  and  for  the  peace  and  happiness  of  the  inhabitants  of  this 
country ;  and  I  do  now,  with  my  head  uncovered,  entreat  that  you 
may  cease  all  hostilities  against  the  Deb  in  future.  It  would  be 
needless  to  add  to  the  length  of  this  letter,  as  the  bearer  of  it,  who 
is  a  Gosain,  will  represent  to  you  all  particulars,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  you  will  comply  therewith.  Li  this  country  ^  worship  of  the 
Almighty  is  the  profession  of  all.  We  poor  creatures  are  in  nothing 
equal  to  you.  Having  a  few  things  in  hand,  I  send  them  to  you 
by  way^  of  remembrance,  and  hope  for  your  acceptance  of  them. 


2. 

MiKXTTE  BY   WaBBEN   HASTINGS. 

May  4,  1774. 

The  President  acquaints  the  Board  that,  since  he  laid  before 
them  the  letter  &om  the  Teshu  Lama  of  Tibet,  he  has  written  an 
answer  to  it,  and,  among  other  things,  has  proposed  a  general  treaty 
of  amity  and  commerce  between  the  two  states  of  Bengal  and 
Bhutan.*  He  begs  leave  to  observe  that  such  a  treaty  has  ever  been 

>  Turner  has  ceate  from,  ^  Turner  has  the  worship, 

*  Turner  has  things,  *  Turner  has  as  token, 

'  Turner  has  all  mankind,  *  Bhci,  the  native  name  of  Tibet, 

B   2 


LETTER  FBOM  THE  TESHU  LAHA. 


[Ch.  I. 


a  fBiTonrite  object  with  our  Honourable  Masteis,  and  that  they  have 
repeatedly  recommended  the  establishment  of  an  intercourse  with 
that  country.  The  present  jnnctare  appeared  to  him  the  most 
&Yonrable  which  has  yet  occurred  for  pnrsning  these  views. 

The  letter  from  the  Lama  invites  ns  to  friendship,  and  the  late 
jBnal  arrangement  of  the  disputes  on  the  frontier  renders  the 
country  accessible  without  danger  either  to  the  persons  or  effects 
of  travellers.  Therefore,  no  sooner  was  the  treaty  for  the  affidrs 
of  Euch  Bahar  ^  signed  and  ratified  than  he  thought  seriously  of 
canning  this  project  into  execution;  and  conceiving  it  to  be 
most  proper  that  a  European,  and  servant  of  the  Company,  should 
be  entrusted  with  the  n^otiation  in  preference  to  any  native,  he 
wrote  immediately  for  the  necessary  passports  for  such  a  person, 
which  he  informs  the  Board  he  has  now  obtained.  The  person 
he  has  made  choice  of  for  this  trust  is  Ifr.  George  Bc^le,  a 
servant  of  the  Company,  well  known  to  this  Board  for  his  in- 
telligence, assiduity  and  exactness  in  affisdrs;  and  the  Preeddent 
farther  expects  to  draw  much  advantage  in  the  conduct  of  the 
business  &om  the  coolness  and  moderation  of  temper  which  he 
seems  to  possess  in  an  eminent  degree.  He  proposes  that  Mr. 
Bogle  should  set  out  without  loss  of  time,  and  will  charge  himself 
with  famishing  him  proper  instructions  and  despatches.  He  hopes 
the  Board  will  approve  of  his  choice,  and  as  Mr.  Bogle  undertakes 
this  difficult  and  hazardous  commission  without  any  immediate  pros- 
pect of  advantage,  and  with  great  uncertainty  as  to  its  success,  he 
would  recommend  to  the  Board  that  he  be  continued  in  possession 
of  the  appointments  which  he  now  holds  at  the  Presidency,  and 
permitted  to  act  by  deputy  till  his  return,  or  till  it  sh^  be 
thought  proper  to  dispose  of  him  another  way.    The  President 


^  He  alludes  to  the  treaty  between 
the  East  India  Company  and  the  Deb 
Bajah  of  Bhutan,  signed  on  April  25, 
1774.  The  English  agreed  to  relin- 
quish all  the  lands  which  belonged  to 
the  Deb  Bajah  before  the  commence- 
ment of  his  war  with  the  Bajah  of 
Knch  Behar;  but  for  the  possession  of 
Chichakotta  the  Deb  Bajah  was  to  pay 
an  annual  tribute  of  fl?e  Tangun 
ponies.    The  Deb  Bajali  agreed  to  de- 


liver up  the  Bajah  of  Kuch  Bahar  au4 
his  brother,  whom  he  had  made  pH-^ 
soners.  The  Bhutan  merchants  were 
allowed  to  go  with  their  caravans  to 
Bangpiir  every  year  without  paying 
duties.  The  Deb  Bajah  promised  never 
to  cause  incursions  to  be  made,  and  to 
give  up  any  inhabitants  of  the  Com- 
pany's territories  on  application.  (See 
<  Aitcbison's  Treaties,'  i.  p.  143.) 


Ch.  I.]  .      APPOINTMENT  OF  MB.  BOGLE.  5 

foriher  acquaints  the  Board  that  he  has  nominated  Mr.  Alexander 
Hamilton,  assistant-surgeon  on  the  establishment,  to  accompany 
Mr.  Bogle  on  this  expedition. 

The  President  has  only  further  to  observe  that  he  is  far  from 
being  sanguine  in  his  hopes  of  success,  but  the  present  occasion 
appears  too  fietyourable  for  the  attempt  to  be  neglected.  He  also 
can  assure  the  Board  that  the  information  which  he  has  been  able 
to  procure  of  the  people,  the  country,  and  goyemment  of  Tibet, 
giyes  considerable  encouragement  to  it.  They  are  represented  as  a 
simple,  well-disposed  people,  numerous  and  industrious,  living  under 
a  weU-r^ulated  goyemment,  having  considerable  intercourse  with 
other  nations,  particularly  with  the  Chinese  and  northern  Tatars, 
and  possessing  at  home  the  principal  means  of  commerce,  gold  and 
silver  in  great  abundance.  For  the  more  particular  satisfiaction  of 
the  Board  he  subjoins  to  this  minute  the  substance  of  this  infor- 
mation, which,  being  on  record,  will  also  exhibit  to  our  Honourable 
Masters  the  grounds  of  the  present  undertaking,  whatever  may  be 
its  success,  and  enable  them  to  judge  how  &x  it  may  be  advisable  to 
prosecute  it  on  any  future  occasion. 

He  also  annexes  to  this  an  account  of  such  goods  as  he  has 
ordered  Mr.  Bogle  to  provide  for  presents  to  the  Lama,  or  as 
samples  of  the  commodities  which  this  country  is  capable  of  supply- 
ing, and  he  moves  that  the  Board  should  order  the  amount  to  be 
paid  out  of  the  treasury. 


3. 

Letteb  fbom  Wabben  Hasting  to  the  Goubt  of  Dibectors. 

The  President,  having  received  a  letter  from  Teshu  Lama,  who 
is  the  guardian  and  minister  of  the  Dalai  Lama,  the  sovereign 
and  high-priest  of  all  Tibet,  thinks  it  a  proper  opportunity  to 
open  intercourse  between  these  countries  and  Bengal,  through  Mr. 
G.  Bogle,  whose  merits  and  abilities  we  have  frequently  noticed 
to  you,  andjrifc  by  his  patience,  exactitude,  and  intelligence 
seemed  pecifKly  fitted  for  Uie  duty.     Accordingly,  Mr.  G-.  Bogle 


6  APPOINTMENT  OF  MB.  BOGLE.  [Oh.  I. 

will  be  sent  to  the  Lama,  with  a  letter  and  presents  and  different 
samples  of  goods,  to  see  which  would  sell  best  there.  Mr. 
Hamilton,  assistant-sorgeon,  is  to  accompany  him,  but  the  great 
length  of  the  jonmey  and  the  natural  diflScnlties  which  Mr.  Bogle 
has  to  encounter  from  the  severity  of  the  climate  and  the  mdeness 
of  the  country  will  make  it  a  long  while  before  we  shall  hear 
from  him. 


4.     • 
Appointment  of  Mb.  Bogle.' 


FoBT  William,  13M  May,  1774. 

Sm, — ^Haying  appointed  you  my  deputy  to  the  Teehu  Lama, 
the  sovereign  of  Bhutan,^  I  desire  you  will  proceed  to  Lhasa,  his 
capital,  and  deliver  to  him  the  letter  and  presents  which  I  have 
given  you  in  charge. 

The  design  of  your  mission  is  to  open  a  mutnal  and  equal 
communication  of  trade  between  the  inhabitants  of  Bhutan  and 
Bengal,  and  you  will  be  guided  by  your  own  judgment  in  using  such 
means  of  negotiation  as  may  be  meet  likely  to  effect  this  pnrpoee. 

You  will  take  with  you  samples  for  a  trial  of  such  articles  of 
commerce  as  may  be  sent  from  this  country  according  to  the 
accompanying  list,  marking  as  accurately  as  possible  the  charge 
of  transporting  them. 

You  will  inquire  what  other  commodities  may  be  successfully 
employed  in  that  trade.  And  you  will  diligently  infoim  yourself 
of  the  manufeustures,  productions,  goods,  introduced  by  the  inter- 
course with  other  countries,  which  are  to  be  procured  in  Bhutan, 
especially  such  as  are  of  ^reat  value  and  easy  transportation,  such 
as^ld.  saver,  precions  sl^es.  mnsk,  rhnbarb.'  mnnft,'  &c. 

The  following  will  be  also  proper  objects  of  your  inquiry 
— the  nature  of  the  road  between  the  borders  of  Bengal  and 
Lhasa,    and .  of   the    countries    lying   between ;    the    communi* 

*  The  word  Bhutan  is  here,  and  in  •  Biwend. 

other  places,  used  by  Warren  Hastings  '  Rubia  mungista,    A  madder  used  aa 

for  Bhotf  the  native  name  of  Tibet.  a  dye,  and  also  for  medicina]  poxpoaee. 


Ch,  L]  INSTBUCTIONS  to  MB.  BOGLE.  7 

cations  between  Lhasa  and  the  neighbonring  conntries,  their 
gOTemment,  reyenue,  and  manners. 

Whaterer  observations  yon  may  make  on  these  or  any  other 
subjects,  whether  of  useful  knowledge  or  curiosity,  I  desire  you 
wiU  oommmucate  to  me  from  time  to  time,  reporting  the  bucocib 
of  your  negotiations. 

The  period  of  your  stay  must  be  left  to  your  discretion.  I 
wish  you  to  remain  a  sufficient  time  to  fulfil  the  purposes  of  your 
deputation,  and  obtain  a  complete  knowledge  of  the  country  and 
the  points  referred  to  your  inquiry.  If  you  shall  judge  tiiat  a 
residence  may  be  usefully  established  at  Lhasa  without  putting 
the  Company  to  any  expense,  but  such  as  may  be  repaid  by  the 
advantages  which  may  be  hereafter  derived  from  it,  you  will  take 
the  earliest  opportunity  to  advise  me  of  it ;  and  if  you  should  find 
it  necessary  to  come  away  before  you  receive  my  otders  upon  it, 
you  may  leave  such  persons  as  you  shall  think  fit  to  remain  as 
your  agents  till  a  proper  resident  can  be  appointed,  and  you  will 
apply  to  the  Lama  for  his  permission  and  the  necessary  passports 
for  the  person  who  may  be  hereafter  deputed  in  this  character. 

You  will  draw  on  me  for  your  charges,  and  your  drafts  shall 
be  regularly  answered.  To  these  I  can  fix  no  limitation,  but 
empower  you  to  act  according  to  your  discretion,  knowing  that 
I  need  not  recommend  to  you  to  observe  a  strict  frugality  and 
economy  where  the  good  of  the  service  on  which  you  are  com- 
missioned shall  not  require  a  deviation  from  these  rules. 

I  am,  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

Mr.  Gboboe  Boolb.  Wabbbn  Hastings. 

P.S. — I  hare  appointed  Mr.  Alexander  Hamilton,  assistant- 
surgeon,  to  attend  you  on  this  deputation. 


8  IN8TBUOTION8  TO  MB.  BOGLE.  [Oh.  I. 


5. 

Private  OoiofissioNS  to  Mb.  Bogle. 

Fort  William,  16tA  May,  1774. 

1.  To  send  one  or  more  pair  of  the  animala  called  tus/  which 
produce  the  shawl  wool.  If  by  a  dooley,  chairs,  or  any  other  con- 
triyance  they  can  be  secored  &om  the  fiitigaes  and  hazards  of  the 
way,  the  expense  is  to  be  no  objection. 

2.  To  send  one  or  more  pair  of  the  cattle  which  bear  what  are 
called  cowtails.^ 

3.  To  send  me  carefully  packed  some  fresh  ripe  walnuts  for 
seedy  or  an  entire  plant,  if  it  can  be  transported ;  and  any  other 
curious  or  valuable  seeds  or  plants,  the  rhubarb  and  ginseng' 
especially. 

4.  Any  curiosities,  whether  natural  productions,  manu&ctures, 
paintings,  or  what  else  may  be  acceptable  to  persons  of  taste  in 
England.  Animals  only  that  may  be  useful,  unless  any  that  may 
be  remarkably  curious. 

5.  In  your  inquiries  concerning  the  people,  the  form  of  their 
goyemment,  and  the  mode  of  collecting  their  revenue,  are  points 
principally  meriting  your  attention. 

6.  To  keep  a  diary,  inserting  whatever  passes  before  your 
observation  which  shall  be  characteristic  of  the  people,  the  country, 
the  climate,  or  the  road,  their  manners,  customs,  buildings,  cookery, 
&c.,  or  interesting  to  the  trade  of  this  country,  carrying  with  you 
a  pencil  and  a  pocket-book  for  the  purpose  of  minuting  short  notes 
of  every  fact  or  remark  as  it  occurs,  and  putting  them  in  order  at 
your  leisure  while  they  are  fresh  in  your  memory. 

7.  To  inquire  what  countries  lie  between  Lhasa  and  Siberia, 
and  what  communication  there  is  between  them.  The  same  with 
regard  to  China  and  Kashmir. 

*  2Vfo  is  the  wool  of  the  shawl  goat.  China  for  fevers.    Properly,  Jm  -  fan. 

'  Yaks.  There  is  also  an  American   ginaeng 

'  A  drug,  the  ruot  uf  an  araliaceous  (Panax  quinquefolmm). 
plant  {Panax  girumg),  much  used  in 


Ch.  L]  INSTBUOTIONS  to  MB.  BOGLE.  9 

8.  To  aaoertain  the  value  of  their  trade  with  Bengal  by  their 
gold  and  silyer  ooiiis,  and  to  send  me  samples  of  both. 

9.  Every  nation  excels  others  in  some  particular  art  or  science. 
To  find  out  this  excellence  of  the  Bhatanese. 

Wabren  HASTiNae. 

10.  To  inform  yourself  of  the  course  and  navigation  of  the 
Brahmaputra,  and  of  the  state  of  the  countries  through  which 
it  runs.  W.  H. 


6. 

Mehobandum  on  Tibet,  by  Wabben  Hastings. 
[Aecompanyinff  the  Instructions  to  Mr,  Bogle?^ 

Tibet  is  a  cold,  high,  mountainous  country.  The  inhabitants 
approach  more  in  figure  to  the  Persians  and  other  inhabitants  of 
Western  Asia,  than  to  any  of  their  neighbours,  Chinese,  Hindus,  or 
Tatars. 

It  should  seem  that  Tibet  consisted  of  a  great  variety  of  tribes 
more  or  less  addicted  to  the  pastoral  life.  At  times  they  appear  to 
have  united  into  powerful  confederacies,  and  become  formidable 
to  their  neighbours.  At  other  times,  when  divided,  they  fell  a 
prey  to  irruptions  of  Tatars,  or  to  the  policy  and  power  of  the 
Chinese.  The  Caucasus  formed  a  barrier  on  the  south  that  pro- 
tected reciprocally  both  Hindustan  and  Tibet  from  any  dangerous 
hostilities  in  that  quarter. 

In  the  fourth  century,  the  Tatar  confederacy  of  the  Typa  sub- 
dued the  north  and  east  of  Tibet.  In  the  eighth  and  ninth  centuries, 
when  the  Tatar  confederacy  of  the  Turks  became  feeble,  the  power 
of  those  nations,  which  now  acknowledge  the  supremacy  of  the 
Dalai  Lama,  was  very  great.  Sometimes  they  penetrated  into  the 
heart  of  China,  but  at  other  times  the  Chinese  took  advantage  of 
their  divisions  to  recover  what  had  been  lost. 

In  1102,  the  chief  of  Great  Tibet  seems  to  have  resided  at 
Lhasa.  He  at  that  period  found  it  necessary  ^to  become  lama,  in 
order  to  strengthen  his  authority  over  the  different  tribes  that  had 


10  MEMORANDUM  ON  TIBET.  [Gh.  I. 

raised  him  to  be  iheir  leader,  and  for  the  same  reason,  it  is  said, 
that  he  submitted  to  become  a  Tassal  of  the  Chinese  empire  in 
1125. 

In  the  thirteenth  oentory,  the  Tatar  confederacy  of  the  Moghnls 
under  Manga  Khan  oyerran  Tibet,  and  soon  after  Enblai  Ehan, 
who  was  Emperor  of  China  as  well  as  chief  of  the  Moghnls,  divided 
it  into  provinces,  and  gave  the  title  of  King  to  the  Lama  of  Lhasa. 
The  Moghnl  princes  being  expelled  from  China,  the  Emperor 
Yonglo,  of  the  dynasty  of  Ming,  which  succeeded  them,  gave  the 
title  of  King,  in  1373,  to  eight  more  lamas  in  Tibet.  In  1426, 
these  took  the  title  of  Grand  Lamas ;  and  then,  or  some  time  after- 
wards, the  Lama  of  Lhasa  took  the  distinguishing  title  of  Dalai 
Lama.  At  least,  we  find  the  Chinese  Emperor  Kang-hi  appointing, 
in  1705,  a  Dalai  Lama,  who  is  said  to  be  the  sixth  in  succession 
who  had  borne  that  title. 

It  was  in  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  that  the  Dalai 
Lama  of  Bhutan,^  or  Greater  Tibet,  first  named  a  Typa  ^  Lama  for 
the  administration  of  civil  affairs.  The  late  intercourse  opened 
between  the  Presidency  of  Bengal  and  Bhutan  shows  that  the  office 
of  Typa  remains  and  actually  engrosses  the  authority  of  the  state. 
It  is  not  likely  that  the  Dalai  Lama  retains  the  power  of  nomi- 
nating to  this  office. 

Although  the  Chinese  historians  ascribe  to  their  emperors  the 
power  of  nominating  the  Dalai  Lama,  it  does  not  follow  that  this 
nomination  is  more  than  a  bare  acknowledgment  or  confirmation 
of  his  appointment  by  the  lamas  or  Tibetan  tribes.  It  may  like- 
wise not  be  improbable  that  the  Typa  Lama  is  chosen  by  the 
priests.  It  is,  at  least,  generally  said  tiiat  the  chiefs  of  the  Tibetan 
tribes  that  acknowledge  a  sort  of  supremacy  in  the  Dalai  Lama 
are  all  elected  by  the  priests,  or  lamas,  the  nobility  at  the  same 
time  having  some  influence  in  the  transaction. 

A  curious  enough  precaution  gainst  hereditary  succession  in 
the  chie&hip  is  ascribed  to  these  tribes.  No  sooner,  it  is  said,  is  a 
new  chief  chosen,  than  his  wife  and  children  are  for  ever  separated 
from  him.   I  have  never  heard  what  is  done  with  them,  nor  whether 

1  Or  Bhot.    (See  note  at  page  6.) 

*  The  Typa  Lama  is  the  guru  or  teacher  of  the  youQg  Dalai  Lama. 


Ch.  I.] 


MEMOBANDUM  ON  TIBET. 


11 


the  chief  is^  after  his  eleTation,  debarred  the  use  of  women.  If  the 
institution  is  true,  it  seems  to  indicate  a  yery  high  advance  in 
political  establishments.  Bade  men  haye  no  apprehension  of  losing 
their  independence;  people  only  become  jealons  of  their  liberty 
when  they  grow  doubtful  of  their  resolution  to  retain  ib 

The  religion  and  hierarchy  established  in  Tibet  is,  howeyer,  a 
ipatter  of  much  greater  curiosity.  We  are  told  that  the  Dalai  Lama 
is  held  to  be  an  incarnation  of  the  legislator  prophet,  or  god  Buddha 
or  Fo,  who  oyer  all  Hindustan  giyes  his  name  (like  Thauth  or 
Mercury,  the  prophet  legislator  and  god  of  the  Egyptians)  to  the 
planet  Mercury,  and  to  the  fourth  day  of  the  wedc.  When  the 
Dalai  Lama  dies,  a  child  is  said  to  be  pitched  on  as  possessing 
certain  marks  which  show  that  the  soul  of  the  deceased  has  been 
transmigrated  into  him ;  and  the  diyinity  and  identity  of  the  new 
manifestation  of  the  god  is  of  course  acknowledged. 

Among  the  different  Tatar  tribes  which  are  of  this  religion, 
there  are  persons  called  Eu-tchuck*tus,^  who  are  likewise  esteemed 
liying  Fos.  It  is,  howeyer,  said  that  though  each  tribe  pays  a 
particular  respect  to  its  own  Eu-tchuck-tu,  the  divinity  of  tiiose  of 
other  tribes  is  not  the  less  acknowledged,  and  it  is  even  pretended 
that  the  Eu-tchuck-tus  admit  a  superiority  in  the  Dalai  Lama,  so 
that  his  excrements  are  sold  as  charms  at  a  great  price  among  all 
the  Tatar  tribes  of  this  religion.  I  have  already  mentioned  that 
no  less  than  eight  Lamas  in  Tibet,  besides  the  Lama  of  Lhasa,  have 
the  title  of  Eing,  and  are  called  Grand  Lamas.^  But  I  do  not  know 
whether  these,  too,  are  esteemed  incarnations  of  the  divinity,  or 
what  subjection,  if  any,  they  pay  to  the  Dalai  Lama. 


>  The  Kutuktus  ase  the  highest 
order  of  Buddhiai  eodesiastics  next 
to  the  Dalai,  haying  diyine  incama- 
tion  of  the  second  class.  Mr.  Brian 
Hodgson  apprehends  that  Kutuktu  is 
the  Tatar  equivalent  for  the  divine 
Lama  of  the  Tibetan  tongue.  A  Ku- 
tuktu is  the  high-priest  of  Mongolia, 
residing  at  Urgu.  The  office  is  elective 
within  certain  Tibetan  families  residing 
near  Lhasa.  (See  *  Geographical  Moga^ 
zine,'  for  March,  1875,  p.  87;  also, 
'  Konvean  Journal  Asiatique/  iv.  p.  120.) 


'  Of  the  eight  personages  referred  to 
by  Warren  Hastings,  Mr.  Hodgson 
thinks  that  four  belong  to  Tibet  and 
four  to  the  Tatar  regions  beyond  Tibet. 
There  have  always  been  two  divine  in- 
carnations in  Tibet,  the  Dalai  and 
Teshu  Lamas ;  and  since  the  Mongols 
became  supreme  in  China  and  the 
regions  around  it,  their  policy  has  been 
to  increase  this  plurality  of  divinities. 
Thus  they  have  sanctioned  the  claims 
of  several  Kutuktus,  in  addition  to  the 
divine  liunas  already  existing. 


12  HEMOBANDUM  ON  TIBET.  [Ch.  I. 

Any  information  with  regard  to  the  antiquity  and  to  the  creed 
of  this  religion,  as  well  as  to  the  authority,  civil  and  ecclesiastical, 
of  the  lamas,  could  not  fail  to  be  extremely  interesting. 

It  would  also  be  durable  to  have  any  facts  relative  to  the  state 
of  Tibet  with  respect  to  China  and  Tatary.  I  have  been  told  that 
a  large  river  forms  a  boundary  between  China  and  Tibet,  which  was 
carefnlly  guarded  by  the  troops  of  both  countries ;  and  that  Tibet 
received  European  commodities  by  the  valley  of  Kashmir.  But  I 
have  learned  nothing  satisfiEUstory  on  these  subjects,  not  so  much  as 
whether  Kashmir  and  Lesser  Tibet  are  at  present  dependent  on 
Bhutan  ^  or  Greater  Tibet,  or  whether  the  Dalai  Lama  is  still  a 
vassal  to  China. 

It  is  said  that  in  Tibet  it  is  very  common  for  one  lady  to  have 
several  husbands.^  I  should  wish  much  to  know  if  this  practice 
obtains  in  all  the  ranks  of  society,  and  whether  those  husbands  who 
all  have  intercourse  with  one  woman  have  not  likewise  other  women 
that  are  their  wives,  with  whom  likewise  they  hold  an  intercourse 
in  common.  We  have  instances  in  other  countries  where,  though 
each  man  in  a  family  had  a  wife  that  was  properly  his  own,  all  tiie 
men  in  the  &mily  had  likewise  an  intercourse  with  all  the  women 
in  it  Perhaps  this  may  be  the  case  also  in  Tibet ;  and  if  we  knew 
anything  of  the  laws  of  succession  in  Tibet,  or  to  whom  the  children 
of  a  wife  with  several  husbands  were  understood  to  belong,  one 
might  be  able  to  discover  how  the  fact  stood,  though  we  had  no 
direct  information  with  regard  to  it. 

The  history,  government,  and  religion  of  Tibet  are  no  doubt 
more  interesting  objects  of  inquiry  than  its  climate  or  topographical 
and  physical  characters;  yet  these,  too,  are  highly  curious.  The 
great  rivers  of  the  south  and  east  of  Asia  appear  to  issue  from  its 
mountains.  It  is  probably,  therefore,  the  highest  land  in  the  old 
continent,  and  this  circumstance,  together  with  the  difficulty  of 
access  to  it,  give  it  a  striking  analogy  to  the  valley  of  Quito,  in 
South  America,  which  is  the  highest  land  in  the  new  continent, 
and  whose  climate  and  situation  M.  de  la  Condamine  has  exhibited 
in  so  interesting  a  point  of  view.  Though  Lhasa  is  situated  in  a 
more  southern  latitude  than  Alexandria,  in  Egypt,  we  are  told  that 

^  Or  Bhot.    (See  note  at  page  6.)  *  Bee  page  74,  and  note. 


Ch.  I.]  MEMORANDUM  ON  TIBET.  18 

people  sent  by  Colonel  Gamioing  had  to  travel  to  it  through  snow 
80  late  as  the  month  of  April.  Any  obeeryations  made  in  snch  a 
country  by  a  thermometer  would,  therefore,  be  valuable. 

I  have  preferred  stating  what  I  know  of  the  subject  to  putting 
mere  interrogatories.  By  this  means  I  flatter  myself  it  will  be 
better  perceived  what  information  I  want,  and  what  information  is 
desirabla 


14  KUOH  BAHAB.  [Ch.  U. 


CHAPTEE  II. 

FROM  KUCH  BAHAB  TO  TAS8ISUD0N.' 

The  Goyemor  haying  occasion  to  send  a  person^  with  some 
despatches  to  the  Lama  of  Tibet,  thought  proper  to  pitch  upon  me, 
and  I  readily  accepted  of  the.  commission.  I  was  glad  of  the 
opportmiity  which  this  journey  through  a  country  hitherto  un- 
frequented by  Europeans  would  giye  me  of  showing  my  zeal  for 
the  Cbyemor's  sendee,  at  the  same  time  that  it  gratified  a  fondness 
I  always  had  for  trayelling,  and  would  afford  me  some  respite  from 
that  close  and  sedentary  business  in  which  I  had  for  some  years 
been  engaged.  I  was  to  be  continued  in  my  o£Sces  at  the  Pre- 
sidency, and  allowed  to  act  by  deputy  during  my  absence;  and 
Ifr.  Hastings  was  also  pleased  to  assure  me  that  whateyer  might 
be  the  issue  of  this  commission,  I  might  depend  on  the  continuance 
of  his  &your. 

I  was  detained  in  Calcutta  till  the  middle  of  May,  1774,  when  I 
set  out  with  Mr.  Hamilton,  the  surgeon,  who  was  appointed  to  attend 
me.  It  was  then  the  hottest  season  of  the  year ;  the  thermometer 
was  often  aboye  the  degree  of  blood  heat,  and  the  sun  being  almost 
yertical,  it  was  necessary  to  trayel  chiefly  during  the  night  time. 
I  passed  through  Murshidabad  and  the  provinces  of  Dinajpur  and 
Bangpiir,  and  reached  Bahar,  the  north-east  boundary  of  Bengali 
on  the  last  of  May.  As  the  rains  were  ready  to  set  in,  I  stayed 
there  only  a  few  days ;  and  haying  made  the  necessary  preparations, 
I  hastened  to  proceed  on  the  journey. 

The  counixy  about  Bahar  is  low.  Two  kee^  beyond  Bahar  we 
entered  a  thicket  formed  of  reeds,  brushwood,  and  long  grass  closely 

>  Or  Tad-ohojong.  Eden  has  Tassisaht^'unj.  Scblagintweit  makes  it  Chxh- 
sMt-chhos-jonj — "the  holy  town  of  the  doctrine."  It  is  probable  tliat  Tun- 
sudon,  as  given  by  Bogle,  is  oorrect.    MacGregor  has  Tasiohozong. 

'  Here  Mr.  Bogle's  own  narrative  commences. 

*  A  kos  is  about  two  miles. 


Ch.  II.]  THE  MISSION  ENTERS  BHUTAN.  15 

interwoyen ;  frogs,  watery  insects,  and  dank  air :  one  can  hardly 
breathe.  This  continues  five  kos ;  towards  the  end  there  are  sal  ^ 
and  large  forest  trees.  Two  miles  farther  on  we  crossed  the  river 
which  separates  the  Each  Bahar  country  from  that  of  the  Deb 
Bajah,  in  sal  canoes  &stened  together.  I  was  now  arrived  at  the 
foot  of  that  chain  of  hills  which  stretches  along  the  northern 
frontier  of  Bengal  and  separates  it  from  Tibet.  In  old  maps,  I 
believe,  they  are  called  the  Nagracut,^  in  late  ones  the  Tibet-  or 
Bod-la^  mountains.  As  none  of  the  Company's  servants,  and  I 
might  almost  say  no  European,  had  ever  visited  the  country 
which  I  was  about  to  enter,  I  was  equally  in  the  dark  as  to  the 
road,  the  climate,  or  the  people ;  and  the  imperfect  account  of 
some  religious  mendicants,  who  had  travelled  through  it,  however 
unsatisfactory,  was  the  only  information  I  could  collect.  We  passed 
the  forts  of  Bowani-ganj,  and  Ghichakotta/  lately  destroyed,  and 
arrived  at  some  new  houses,  in  one  of  which  we  were  accommodated. 
The  house  was  thatched,  the  floor  of  lath  of  bamboo,  and 
raised  four  feet  from  the  ground ;  the  walls  of  reeds,  tied  together 
with  slips  of  bamboo ;  and  the  stair  a  stump  of  a  tree,  with  notches 
cut  in  it.  It  had  much  the  look  of  a  birdcage,  and  the  space  below 
being  turned  into  a  hogstye  contributed  little  to  its  pleasantness. 
There  was  not  a  bit  of  iron  or  rope  about  it.  The  houses  for  the 
three  next  stages  were  in  the  same  style.  The  head  man  of  the 
village  and  some  of  the  neighbours  got  tipsy  with  a  bottle  of  rum. 
A  female  pedlar  sojourned  with  him ;  good  features  and  shape,  fine 
teeth,  and  Bubens*  wife's  eyes ;  whole  dress  one  blanket  wrapped 
round  her,  and  fastened  over  the  shoulders  with  a  silver  skewer. 
She  drank  rum  too.  Men,  women,  and  children  sleep  higgledy- 
piggledy  together.    The  country  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  subject  to 

>  iS/lorearofrtufa,  a  valuable  timber  tree.  present  mape  of  British  Sikkim  the 

'  Nagorkote  Pass,  north  of  Purneah,  name  appears  as  Nagri, 

is  shown  on  Renneirs  Bengal  Atlas  of  '  Bod  is  the  native  name  of  Tibet, 

1781.    In  his  Memoir  he  mentions  a  and  la  means  a  pass.    **  The  Pass  into 

place  oalled  by  Giorgi  Nogliocot^  and  Tibet" 

by  the  Bengalis  Nogarcot,  as  a  pass  ^  Captain  Turner  followed  on  the 

leading  from  Bhutan  to  Kathmandu  same   route,   by  the   Buza-Diiar,  in 

(p.  224).    In  the  itineraries  collected  1783.    Chichakotta  was  at  the  Bhutan 

by  Mr.  Hodgson  (*  Bengal  Selections/  frontier.    He  describes  it  as  an  oblong 

zxvii.  p.  121, 1857),  Nagri  Kot  is  men-  square  encompassed  by  a  high  bank 

tioned  as  an  old  fort  in  ruins  on  the  and  thick  stockade.    The  latter  was 

road  from  Pumeah  to  Nepal.    In  the  obliterated  in  1864-65. 


16  BUXA-DUAB.  [Ch.  U. 

the  Deb  Bajah,  is  in  general  inhabited  by  a  people  who,  although 
they  aasociate  and  intermix  with  the  natiyes  of  Bhutan,  are  plainly 
of  a  different  race,  and  resemble  the  Bengalis  in  colour,  in  shape, 
and  features.^ 

Set  out  early.  The  chain  of  mountains  which  stretches  along 
the  northern  frontier  of  Bengal,  18  miles  distant,  seemed  oyer 
onr  heads.  As  we  approached  the  hills  there  were  strong  marks 
of '  a  change  in  the  climate  and  fisu^  of  the  country ;  forests 
crowded  with  sals,  pines,^  and  trees  different  from  and  more  robust 
than  those  in  Bengal ;  rivnlets  clear,  and  mnning  on  sand,  pebbles, 
and  sfcones.  The  road  became  uneven;  and  we  reached  tiie  foot 
of  the  hills  at  about  two  o'clock ;  walk ;  ascent  at  first  easy ;  way 
through  a  wood ;  some  fine  groves  of  first-rate  trees ;  grows 
steep ;  narrow  path  zigzag  up  the  hill ;  what  a  road  for  troops ! 
about  four  miles  to  climb ;  many  little  springs  to  drink  at ;  from 
the  bottom  of  the  hills  to  their  summit  covered  with  wood ; 
variety  of  well-grown  trees  of  the  largest  size ;  some  grand  natural 
amphitheatres,  with  the  noise  of  waterfalls.  We  arrived  at  Buxa- 
Duar^  towards  evening ;  situated  on  a  hill,  with  much  higher  ones 
above  it,  glens  under  it,  and  a  3-feet  wall  of  loose  stones  about  it ; 
a  fine  old  banian  tree ;  ^  that's  all.^ 

The  commander  (Pasang  Eatam,*  mdgo  Buxa  Subah)  being  at 
Bahar,  I  was  visited  by  his  dewan  vrith  presents,  a  white  Pelong ' 
handkerchief  (the  general  nazir  throughout  Bhutan),  butter,  rice, 

^  The  Ddars  are  ohieflj  inhabited  engraying  of  Buxa-Difar,  from  a  draw- 
by  Rajbangsis,  an  agiicoltoral  oadte  in  ing  by  bis  companion,  Captain  Davis. 
Bangpifr,  of  the  Koch  tribe.  ^  Katam  is  the  title  of  offioe,  and 

'  The  pine  no  longer  exists  here,  if  it  Pasang  is  the  name  we  render  Buxa. 

ever  did.  Bat  it  should  be  Pas^aka.   Tomer  gives 

'  Diiar  is  simply  the  English  word  a  curious  account  of  the  origin  of  the 

Door,     The  door  or  entrance  to   the  word  Buxa,  at  p.  41.    The  Katam  of 

mountains.     Buza-Diiar  is  1809  feet  Bogle  is  the  Geatcng  of  Turner,  p.  41. 

above  the  sea.  The  correct  form  is  Jadu^  as  given  in         / 

^  This  tree  still  exists.   On  the  mom-  the  narrative  of  Kishen  Kant  Boae,  at         ^ 

ing  of  the  20th  of  March,  1865,  Colonel  p.  193. 

Haughton  found  a  party  of  artillery-  7  The  Tibetans  call  the  English  in 

men  cutting  it  down,  and  his  inter-  India  Peling  (^Pelonj\  a  word  signifying 

vention  saved  it.  stranger  (Hue's  'Tibet,'  p.  276).    A 

'  Turner  makes  the  distance  from  Pelong  handkerohief  is  one  from  India, 

Chichakotta  to  Bnxa-Dilar  as  20  miles.  or  from  Europe  coming  through  India. 

fle  here  gives  an  account  of  the  method  P  is  used  by  the  Chinese  for  F^  and 

of  making  a  spirit  (rom  rice  or  wheat.  /  for  r.    So  that  Peling  may  be  nothing 

called  choug.     Facing  p.  39  he  has  an  more  than  Frhujy^  or  Fermghi  (/Van*). 


Ch.  no  ASCENT  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS.  17 

milk,  and  some  coarse  tea.  We  were  detained  a  ddy  for  want  of 
coolies. 

On  the  9th  of  Jnne  I  entered  the  hills,  and  heing  now  out  of 
Bengal  and  heyond  the  Company's  jurisdiction,  I  was  famished 
with  a  passport  from  the  Deb  Bajah,  who  is  the  chief  of  the 
country.  The  following  part  of  the  journey  was  a  perfect  contrast 
to  the  former. 

The  only  way  of  transporting  goods  in  this  hilly  country  is  by 
coolies.  The  roads  are  too  narrow,  steep,  and  nigged  for  any  .other 
conyeyanoe,  and  the  rivers  too  stony  and  rapid  for  boats,  l^ere  is 
no  particular  class  of  people  who  follow  this  profession.  The  carriers 
are  pressed  from  among  the  inhabitants,  receiye  an  allowance  for 
yictnals  at  the  pleasure  of  the  person  on  whose  service  they  are 
employed,  and  are  reliered  by  others  procured  in  the  same  manner 
at  the  next  village  by  order  of  the  head  man,  without  which  not  a 
oooUe  is  to  be  had.  This  is  a  service  so  well  established  that  the 
people  submit  to  it  without  murmuring.  Neither  sex,  nor  youth, 
nor  age  exempt  them  from  it.  The  burden  is  feustened  under  the 
arms  upon  their  backs,  with  a  short  stick  to  support  it  while  they 
rest  themselyes.  Naturally  strong,  and  accustomed  to  this  kind 
of  labour,  it  is  astonishing  what  loads  they  will  carry.  A  girl 
of  eighteen  travelled  one  day  15  or  18  miles,  with  a  burden  of 
70  or  75  pounds  weight.  We  could  hardly  do  it  without  any 
weight  at  alL 

We  were  provided  with  two  tangun  ponies  ^  of  a  mean  appear- 
ance, and  were  prejudiced  against  them  unjustly.  On  bett^  ac- 
quaintance they  turned  out  patient,  sure-footed,  and  could  climb 
the  monument.  Many  a  time  afterwards,  when,  on  the  edge  of  a 
precipice,  I  was  mounted  on  a  skittish  young  horse,  with  a  man 
holding  him  by  the  head  and  another  steering  him  by  the  tail, 
have  I  thought  of  them.  We  had  to  cross  the  mountain  Picha- 
konum,^  which  hangs  over  Buxa-Duar;  the  way  a  narrow  path, 
extremely  steep,  which  went  winding  round  the  side  of  it;  the 

^  Tangban  or  Tangnn,  a  strong  little  '  This  is  the  Peachokum  monntain 

pooy  of  Tibet  and  Bhutan.    They  are  of  Tomer  (p.  44).    He  describes  it  as 

cBlied  Tangun,  ynlgarly  Tannian,  from  an  ascent  of  two  hours,  whence  there 

Tstngastan,  the  general  appellation  of  is  a  glorious  view.     MaoGregor  has 

the    mountainous   region  of  Bhutan.  Potichakam. 
(See  *  Hookers  GUmalayan  Journal.') 


18  BHUTANE8E  AND  BENGALIS.  [Gb.  II. 

upper  part  payed  with  stones  of  bastard  marble^  put  togeiher  like 
ill-formed  steps.     Midday,  cold  and  chiUy;  rery  high  predpices,  ' 
bat  not  frightful,  because  covered  with  trees.     Indulged  in  the 
pleasure  of  tumbling  down  stones. 

The  road  led  almost  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  before  we 
crossed  it  I  turned  to  take  another  look  at  Bengal    It  is  impoesihle 
to  conceive  any  change  of  country  more  abrupt,  or  any  contrast 
more  striking.    To  the  southward  the  atmosphere  was  clear.    The 
eye  stretched  over  a  vast  tract  of  land,  and  the  view  was  bounded 
only  by  the  circular  horizon.    This  part  of  the  view,  however,  is 
striking  only  because  it  is  extensive.    There  are  no  hills,  spires,  or 
other  objects  to  distinguish  it.     The  country — one  continued  flat — 
is  marked  only  by  its  being  cleared  or  woody,  by  the  course  of  the 
rivers,  or  by  some  smoking  villages.     Whether  it  be  that  I  am 
partial  to  hills  or  not,  I  beheld  the  opposite  part  of  the  prospect  with 
much  greater  pleasure.    The  rapid  descent,  the  deep  glens,  the 
hills  covered  with  trees  the  most  lofty  and  luxuriant,  the  town  of 
Buxa-Ddar  immediately  below  at  a  great  distance,  and  behind 
nothing  but  mountains  with  their  tops  hid  in  the  clouds.    It  was 
lucky  for  them,  as  I  fiancied  them  much  higher  than  they  really  are. 
We  were  then  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest.    What  fine,  baselesB 
fabrics  might  not  a  cosmographer  build  on  this  situation,  who, 
from  a  peat  or  an  oysteif-sheU,  can  determine  the  different  changes 
which  volcanoes,  inundations,  and  earthquakes  have  produced  on  the 
f)Eu»  of  this  globe.    He  would  discover  that  the  sea  must  once  have 
covered  Bengal,  and  washed  the  bottom  of  these  mountains,  which 
were  placed  as  a  barrier  against  its  encroachments.    But  instead  of 
following  out  these  antediluvian  reveries,  which  make  the  head 
giddy,  one  had  better  see  to  what  uses  nature  now  puts  them,  and 
how  she  fits  the  inhabitants  for  their  respective  sitoations.    The 
natives  of  Bengal,  weak  and  thin-skinned,  are  ill  suited  to  bear 
fatigue  or  cold.    Their  country  is  cut  through  with  rivers  and 
creeks  to  carry  their  goods  for  them.    The  earth  produces  its  fruits 
with  an  ease  almost  spontaneous,  and  every  puddle  is  full  of  fish. 
The  Bhutanese,  of  a  constitution  more  robust  and  hardy,  inhabit  a 
country  where  strength  is  required.   They  have  everything  to  tiancH 
port  on  their  backs ;  they  are  obliged  to  make  terraces,  and  conduct 
little  streams  of  water  into  them,  in  order  to  cover  their  rice  fields. 


Oh.  n.]  RIVEBS  AND  CA8GADEB.  19 

and  to  bmld  houses  with  thick  stone  waUs,  to  secure  themselves 
from  the  oold.  The  one  cannot  endnre  heat,  the  other  cannot  suffer 
cold ;  and  so  these  mountains  are  set  np  as  a  screen  hetween  them. 
They  shelter  Bengal  from  the  northerly  winds  which  blow  over 
Tatary,  all  the  way  from  Novaya  Zendya,  and  give  them  moderate 
winters;  and  they  serve  to  keep  off  the  hot  southerly  monsoon  frx)m 
the  Bhutanese,  and  preserve  them  cool  when  the  sun  is  within  six 
degrees  of  them.  The  climate  accordingly  changes  in  the  most 
rapid  manner,  and  Muri-jong,  which  is  not  above  two  days'  journey 
from  the  entrance  into  the  hills,  produces  apricots,  peaches,  apples, 
pears,  mulberries,  and  even  oaks.    But  I  am  getting  into  the  clouds. 

At  the  place  where  the  road  crosses  the  mountain,  standards  or 
banners  are  set  up,  of  white  cloth,  with  sentences  written  upon 
them.  They  denote  something  religious,  and  are  common  at  the 
tops  of  hills.  The  prospect  within  the  hills  is  confined — not  above 
25  miles;  country  all  equally  dad  with  wood.  There  were  not 
above  six  or  eight  villages  to  be  seen  on  the  brow  of  the  mountain, 
with  little  patches  of  wheat,  barley,  or  Indian  com ;  the  road  all 
down  hill.  We  went  down  much  against  the  grain,  for  we  must 
dimb  it  all  up  again ;  first  place  we  came  to  Jaigugu. 

Only  three  birdcage  houses,  and  two  Nepal  dogs.  I  planted  ten 
potatoes.^  Through  these  hills,  and  about  a  mile  below  Jaigugu,^ 
runs  Pachu-Ohindxu^  to  the  south-east.  From  all  the  laws  of 
hydrostatics  it  seems  a  plain  deduction  that  a  more  level  road  might 
be  made  by  following  the  course  of  this  river  than  by  going  over 
the  mountains.  If  the  last  is  done  to  render  the  entrance  into 
the  country  difficult  it  is  very  politic.  A  branch  of  this  river 
was  near  us  all  the  way  to  Tassisudon:  it  runs  so  fast,  and 
dashes  so  over  stones,  that  it  is  half  a  cascade.  The  road  to  Muri- 
jong  consists  of  steep  descents  and  ascents  the  whole  way ;  a  few 
distant  villages.  There  had  been  a  heavy  shower  of  rain.  Three 
or  four  fine  waterfiEJls  were  passed ;  one  fell  perpendicular  about 
40  feet  from  the  top  of  a  rock;  another  a  stream  foaming  and 

>  Warren  HastingB  desired  Mr.  Bogle  from    Bnza  -  Diiar    to    Jaigogu    (or 

to  plant  some  potatoes  at  every  halt-  Cfygoogoo)  is  12  miles. 

jng  place,  in  order  that  a  valuable  *  Formed  by  the  miion  of  the  two 

new  product  might  be  introduced  into  rivers  Pachu  and  Ohinohn,  the  latter 

Bhutan.  flowing  past  Tassisudon,  the  former  by 

'  According  to  Turner,  the  distance  Paro. 

0  2 


20  VEGETATION  OF  BHUTAN.  [Ch.  U. 

tombling  oyer  large  stones ;  another  embosomed  in  a  fine  groye, 
with  arches  formed  by  the  trees  and  rocks.  There  were  wooden 
bridges  oyer  all  the  riyulets  which  ran  from  them. 

We  arriyed  at  Mnri-jong  ^  as  they  were  beating  the  eyening 
tom-tom.  It  consists  of  twenty  houses,  some  of  them  stone ;  many 
inscribed  banners ;  ^  and  a  good  deal  of  arable  land  and  cattle.  I 
planted  fifteen  potatoes. 

To  Chiika  a  long  stage,  and  difficult  road ;  a  good  deal  of  rain 
— ^it  does  not  Ml  from  the  clonds,  but  comes  upwards.  The 
yillages  increase  in  number.  There  is  a  grand  cascade>on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  riyer.  We  climbed  a  rock  that  hangs  oyer 
Pachu  -  Ghinchu  ^  by  steps,  almost  perpendicular ;  the  horses 
scrambled  up  too.  We  passed  through  a  passage  cut  in  a  small 
rock  near  the  top,  and  came  in  sight  of  Chiika,^  mth  its  iron  bridge, 
situated  in  a  yalley — the  first  we  had  seen.  This  yillage  is  in  a 
different  district  from  Buxa-Diiar. 

From  Chiika  for  the  rest  of  the  way  to  Tassisudon  the  country 
opens  gradually.  The  mountains  are  still  yery  high,  but  being 
more  sloped  haye  more  arable  land,  and  being  at  a  greater  distance 
from  one  another,  leaye  room  for  yillages  in  the  hollows  between 
them.  On  the  former  part  of  the  journey  there  were  nothing  but 
glens,  now  there  are  yalleys.  But  the  sides  of  the  mountains  are 
more  bare ;  there  are  few  large  trees,  mostly  fir  ;^  the  rood  is  m<xe 
leyel,  except  at  two  or  three  places ;  and  we  can  ride  the  greatest 
part.  The  country  seems  populous,  and  well  cultiyated;  houses^ 
stone  and  clay,  two  and  three  stories  high;  temples;  and  on  the 
two  last  stages  rice  fields. 

It  would  be  tedious  to  mention  eyery  stage.  A  list  of  them  is 
subjoined.  There  are  about  ten,  fifteen,  or  twenty  large  houses 
at  each. 

It  grew  colder  eyery  stage  till  we  reached  Kepta.*    There  the 

*  Mnrlcliom  of  Turner.  Bather  more  *  Chuka,  or  Suka,  the   passage   or 

than  4000  feet  above  the  sea.   (Griffith,  crossing  of  the  river.    4449  feet, 

p.  151.)    MacGregor  says  3788  feet.  ^  Pinus  exoelM^  P.  Smithiana,  and  zho- 

'  At  the  present  day  these  banners  dodendrons  are  mentioned  by  Griffith, 

are  texts  of  Buddhist  scriptures,  printed  p.  1 50. 

on  calico  from  wooden  blocks.  '  Chupia  of  Turner,  and  Chq>cka  of 

»  Turner  calls  it  the  river  Tchin-  Pemberton.    7984  feet, 
tcliieu.    He  gives  an  engraving  (p.  53) 
of  a  beautiful  waterfall. 


^H.  II.]  BRIDGES.  21 

thermometer  was  at  5SP  morning  and  evening,  and  wonld  creep 
to  64''  in  the  heat  of  the  day.  Thus  it  was  daring  the  three  days 
we  stayed  there.  At  Tassisudon  it  was  abont  61°  in  the  morning, 
and  68°  to  70°  at  midday. 

Most  of  the  trees  and  plants  are  imknown  to  me.  Bengal 
trees  are  chiefly  met  with  on  the  other  side  of  Chuka — plantain, 
jack,  bamboo,  thick  and  crabbed  blackwood.  European  trees  and 
plants  are  mostly  on  this  side ;  some  I  have  already  mentioned; 
others  are  walnnt,  elderberry,  holly,  willow,  ash,  aspen-leaf,  sweet 
brier,  roses,  brambles,  juniper,  wormwood,  sage,  thistles,  southern- 
wood, strawberries,  primroses,  ground  iyy.  The  people  cultivate 
turnips,^  leeks,  shallots,  water  melons,  musk  melons,  cucumbers,  and 
brinjals. 

After  the  variety  of  uses  to  which  the  bamboo  is  applied  in 
Bengal,  one  would  hardly  think  it  possible  to  discover  any  other ; 
but  the  people  in  that  part  of  the  country  where  it  grows  have 
discovered  two  more.  It  answers  as  a  vessel  to  hold  anything  in, 
and  as  a  pot  to  boil  anything.  This  last  operation  is  performed 
by  covering  the  bottom  with  clay,  and  then  putting  on  the 
fire.  - 

The  bridges  are  either  entirely  of  wood  or  entirely  of  iron.* 
The  wooden  bridges  are  very  common,  and  are  from  30  to  70  feet 
long.  On  each  side  of  the  river  four  or  six  piles  are  built  slopingly 
into  piers  of  bare  stones,  so  as  each  to  project  about  a  third  of  the 
way  over.  The  centre  beams  rest  upon  the  tops  of  these,  which  are 
first  joined  together  with  a  cross  beam  dovetailed,  and  this  forms 
the  support  of  the  planks.  When  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  bridge 
very  strong,  short  piles  are  placed  under  the  others,  like  the  spring 
of  a  chaise.  All  the  parts  are  &stened  together  with  wooden  pins, 
so  that  there  is  not  a  bit  of  iron  about  them.  At  Chuka  the  river 
is  very  rapid  and  broad,  and  an  iron  bridge  is  hung  over  it.' 
Five  chains  are  stretched  from  one  side  to  the  other,  and  covered 
with  laths  and  mats  of  bamboo,  which  form  the  floor.  Two  other 
chains  are  extended  across  the  river  at  about  seven  feet  perpen- 
dicular above  the  outermost  of  those  on  each  side,  and  joined  to 

*  Bhutan  produces  probably  the  best  tumips  in  the  world. 

^  That  is,  chain  bridges.    (See  Turner,  p.  54.) 

'  Turner  gives  an  engraving  of  this  bridge,  facing  p.  55. 


22 


LIST  OF  STAGES. 


[Ch.  n. 


them  with  twisted  rattans.  It  is  147  feet  long,  and  6  feet  broad. 
As  soon  as  one  steps  upon  it,  it  moves  from  one  end  to  the  other. 
Near  Lnmbolong  there  is  a  bridge  formed  with  two  chains. 

There  is  another  way  of  passing  riyers,  by  means  of  two  ropes 
stretched  across,  with  two  hoops  hnng  upon  them,  which  serve  to 
support  the  feet  or  knees,  while  the  hands  hauling  on  the  ropes 
slide  the  hoops  along.  The  hoops  are  of  one  piece  of  rattan,  and 
are  often  60  or  70  feet  in  length. 


LIST  OF  STAGES. 


Bogie. 


Ko0. 
10 
13 
8 
10 
10 


1.  Bahar  to  Ohicbakotta,  about 

2.  Cbiobakotta  to  BuxarDifar    . . 
8.  Bnza-DiSar  to  Jaigngn  . . 

4.  Jaiguga  to  Mnri-jong    . . 

5.  Muri-jong  to  Chdka 

6.  Ghiika  to  Kepta      9 

7.  Kepta  to  Paku        5 

8.  Paku  to  Lumbolong  4 

9.  Lumbolong  to  Wangoka       ..       4 
10.  Wangoka  to  Tassisudon . .  3 

Computed 76 


19 


Pemberton  and  2\imer. 

MUm. 

Babar  to  Gbichaootia 20 

Cbichaootta  to  Buza     18 

G?^agoo}*^  ^"^^^°°^       ••      •• 

Muricbom  to  Gbiika      18 

Gbifka  to  Cbupcha  (Kepta) . .      . .  17 

Chupeba  to  Pangm        11 

Panga  to  Nomnoo 8 

Komnoo  to  Wangoka     10 

Wangoka  to  Taflsisudon       ....  8 


BfUes 


129 


JfacGreg<)r, 

Buxa  to  Tobinobu-la  (4869  feet)       ..      ..       6 

Tapeee  (3003  feet)       9 

Muricbom  (3788  feet)        6| 

Gboonkar      9 

Gbiika  (4449  feet)       9 

Pinaka 8 

Gbupcba  (7984  feet) 9 

Panga  (7511  feet)        ll 

Somloo 8 

Oolaka  (7120  feet)      10 

Tasi-obo-zong  (7271  feet) 8 


93i 


Gh.  hi.]  80ENEBY  BOUND  TASSISUDON.  28 


CHAPTEE  III. 

TASSISUDON,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  BHUTAN. 

We  were  acoommodated  ia  a  good  house  near  the  palace ;  and  soon 
found  it  so  cold  that  I  was  glad  to  hang  my  room,  which  was  a 
wooden  balcony,  with  Bhutan  blankets.  The  window  looked  to  the 
river,  and  commanded  the  best  prospect. 

The  palace  of  Tassisndon^  is  situated  in  a  valley  about  five 
miles  long  and  one  broad,  entirely  sarronnded  with  high  moun- 
tains. The  river  Ghinchn  gallops  by;  the  low  grotmds  near  it 
being  covered  with  rice,  and  well  peopled.  Villages  are  scattered 
on  the  brow  of  the  hills.  The  least  steep  places  produce  wheat. 
Immediately  behind  Tassisudon  there  is  a  very  high  mountain, 
rising  into  Lo  tnrrete.  which  are  clad  mth  mK^almJt  to  the  top ; 
and  some  soUtary  cottages,  the  retreat  of  dervises,  are  here  and 
there  dropped  as  from  the  clouds.  In  these  airy  abodes  they  pass 
their  days  in  counting  their  beads,  and  look  down  with  indifference 
on  aU  ihe  business  and  bustle  of  the  world,  from  which  they  are 
entirely  excluded. 

The  character  of  a  fakir  is  held  in  great  estimation  in  this 
country.  It  is  not  confined,  however,  to  these  seK-denying  sons  of 
abstinence.  The  statesmen  and  the  provincial  governors,  when 
weary  of  power  or  dismissed  from  office,  assume  the  name  and  garb 
of  a  fisikir.^  They  retire  to  their  houses,  or  to  a  castle  they  have 
built  on  the  top  of  some  mountain;  but  instead  of  that  poverty 
and  those  acts  of  mortification  which  are  the  proper  characteristics 
of  the  hermit's  life,  they  are  surrounded  by  their  families  and 
servants ;  they  indulge  themselves  in  the  daintiest  victuals  under 
the  salvo  of  killing  no  living  creature,  and  eating  no  animal  food 

^  7271  feet  above  the  sea,  acoording  confounds  the  Buddhist  monk  with  the 

to  Pemberton.  Hindu  mendicant,  amongst  Europeans 

'  The  Qovemment  being  hierarchical,  kuown  as  a  fakir.    The  term  is  properly 

the  officials  are  nominally  of  the  orders  only  applicable  to  Muhanunadans. 
of  Buddhist  priesthood.    Bogle  here 


24  ABRIVAL  OF  THE  DEB  RAJAH.  [Oh.  U 

on  the  day  on  which  it  was  slain,  and  being  generally  allowed  to 
carry  their  effects  along  with  them,  may  be  considered  among  the 
most  opulent  class  of  inhabitants.  Deb  Seklu,  after  a  prosperous 
reign  of  eighteen  years,  named  his  successor,  and  E^>ent  the  rest  of 
his  days  in  this  peaceful  retirement. 

One  day  we  ascended  the  high  mountain.  We  set  out  early  in  the 
morning,  and  reached  the  summit  at  about  three  o'clock  The 
palace  of  Tassisudon  with  its  gilded  turrets,  the  windings  of  the 
Chinchu  with  its  wooden  bridges,  the  fields  below  coyered  with  rice 
and  with  villages,  the  tops  of  distant  mountains,  and  the  lofty 
castles  of  fakirs^  formed  the  prospect.  We  met  with  some  wild 
cherries  and  one  currant  bush,  and  got  down  after  it  was  dark. 

The  Deb  Bajah  was  absent  on  our  arrival.  His  return  to  Tassi- 
sudon was  in  this  wise.  At  about  ten  o'clock  the  balconies  of  the 
palace  were  covered  with  priests,  who  are  all  clad  in  red  cloth,^  the 
manufacture  of  Bhutan ;  and  4  long  brass  trumpets,  6  castanets, 
4  tabors,  and  4  fifes  were  sounded  at  intervals.  At  eleven,  30  match- 
locks were  fired  on  the  road  he  was  to  pass,  and  the  salute  was 
repeated  when  he  came  up  to  them.  The  procession  consisted  of 
12  led  horses;  120  men  dressed  in  red,  with  blue  soHtaires;  30 
matchlock  men;  30  archers;  30  horses  laden  with  cloths  and 
other  furniture ;  40  men  on  horseback,  some  of  them  with  bushy- 
Gaps  ;  the  chief  dewan,  with  a  bushy  party-coloured  standard ; 
6  musicians ;  the  Deb  Bajah  on  horseback,  covered  with  a  scarlet 
cloak,  a  large  yellow  hat  like  a  cardinal's,  a  choura  burdar^  on  each 
side  of  him,  and  behind  a  man  carrying  a  small  white  silk  umbrella 
vnth  different  coloured  fringes.  As  they  came  near  the  palace 
everybody  except  the  Bajah  alighted ;  the  men  vnth  bushy  caps 
pulled  them  off,  and  walked  up  to  the  gate.  At  different  parts  of 
the  road  which  he  had  to  pass,  fires  were  lighted,  and  the  people 
prostrated  themselves  before  Urn.  In  the  whole  cavalcade  there 
were  about  400  persons. 

Two  days  afterwards  the  Deb  Bajah  sent  for  me.  If  there  is 
any  satisfaction  in  being  gazed  at,  I  had  enough  of  it.     I  dare  to 

'  No  doubt  Buddhist  monks  are  re-  Gtelukpa  sect,  which  is  now  domiuaDt 

ferred  to.  in  Tibet,  uses  the  yeUow  oolour. 

3  This  colour  denotes  the  older  or  '  That  is,  one  who  carries  a  flyflap 

Nyanginapa  sect.    The  more  recent  or  formed  of  the  tail  of  the  yak. 


Ch.  mj  INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  DEB  RAJAH.  25 

say  there  were  3000  spectators.  I  was  led  through  three  courts, 
and  after  chmbing  two  iron-plated  ladders,  which  serve  for  stairs  in 
this  part  of  the  world,  arrived  in  an  antechamber  hung  round  with 
arms.  Here  I  waited  some  time  before  I  was  conducted  into  the 
presence  chamber,  through  a  dark  entry  and  down  t^o  steps.  The 
Bajah  was  seated  on  his  throne  or  pulpit  (for  that  is  what  it  is 
like),  raised  about  two  feet  above  the  floor.  He  was  dressed 
in  the  festival  habit  of  a  gylong  or  priest,  being  covered  with 
a  scarlet  satin  cloak,  and  a  gilded  mitre  on  his  head.  A  man  kept 
twirling  the  umbrella  over  him.  The  pulpit  was  gilded,  and  sur- 
rounded with  silver  ewers  and  vases,  and  the  floor  was  covered 
with  carpets.  His  officers  to  the  number  of  twelve  were  seated 
on  cushions  close  to  the  wall.  After  making  my  bows,  which, 
according  to  the  ceremonial  of  this  country,  ought  to  have  been 
prostrations,  and  laying  my  presents  before  him,  I  was  conducted 
to  a  cushion  prepared  for  me  in  the  middle  of  the  apartment 
Several  copper  platters  with  rice,  butter,  treacle,  tea,  wabiuts, 
Eashmirian  dates,  apricots,  cucumbers,  and  other  fruits  were  set 
before  me,  together  with  a  little  wooden  stool.  All  this  passed 
in  silence.  Then  a  man  entered  with  a  silver  kettle  full  of 
buttered  tea,  and  having  poured  a  little  into  his  pahn  and  drunk 
it  ofi*,  filled  a  dish  for  the  Bajah,  and  went  round  to  all  his  officers. 
Now  every  Bhutanese  carries  a  little  wooden  cup  for  such  occasions, 
black  glazed  in  the  inside,  wrapped  in  a  bit  of  doth,  and  lodged 
within  the  tunic,  opposite  to  the  heart  and  next  the  skin;  but 
not  being  so  well  provided,  I  got  a  china  cup.  After  all  the 
dishes  were  filled,  the  Deb  Bajah  said  a  grace,  in  which  he  was 
joined  by  all  the  company ;  and  then  he  opened  his  mouth  and 
spoke  to  me.  When  we  had  finished  our  tea,  and  every  man  had 
well  licked  his  cup  and  deposited  it  in  his  bosom,  a  flowered  satin 
gown  was  brought  me.  I  was  dressed  in  it  as  a  khilat;  a  red 
handkerchief  was  tied  round  me  for  a  girdle,  and  I  was  carried  to 
the  Bajah,  who  bound  my  head  with  another,  and  squeezing  my 
temples,  put  Eomething  on  my  head,  which  I  afterwuds  found  to 
be  tiie  image  of  the  god  Sakya,^  and  muttered  some  prayers  over 

^  Sakya  was  the  name  of  Buddha      often  added;    and  the  OBual  fonn  is 
most  used  in  the  north,  and  Gk)tama  in      Sukyamuni. 
Ceylon.    Muni  (Saint,  or  Holy  Man)  is 


26  THE  LAKA-RIMBOCHE.  [Oh.  HI. 

me.  He  then  tied  two  silk  handkerchiefe  together^  and  tlirew 
them  oyer  my  ahonlders.  I  was  conducted  to  my  cushion;  we 
had  two  or  three  more  dishes  of  tea,  as  many  graces,  a  cnp  or 
two  of  whisky,  and  hetel-nut.  I  then  retired.  The  walls  of  the 
presence  chamber  were  hmig  round  with  Chinese  landscapes  mixed 
with  their  deities  painted  on  satin.  The  ceiling  and  pillars  were 
covered  with  the  same  devices,  and  at  the  lower  end  of  the  room, 
behind  where  I  sat,  there  were  three  or  four  images  placed  in  niches. 
Before  them  were  censers  burning  with  incense,  and  lamps  with 
butter;  little  sQver  pagodas  and  urns,  elephants'  teeth,  flowers, 
&c.,  the  whole  ornamented  with  silks,  ribbons,  and  other  gewgaws. 
Among  these  I  must  not  omit  to  mention  a  soUiary  print  of  Lady 
Waldegrave,^  whom  I  was  the  means  of  rescuing  out  of  the  hands 
of  these  idols;  for  it  happening  to  strike  some  of  the  household 
that  she  would  make  a  pretty  companion  to  a  looking-glass  I  had 
given  the  Deb  Bajah,  she  was  hung  up  on  one  of  the  pillars  next 
the  throne,  and  the  mirror  on  the  other. 

The  palace  is  a  very  large  building,  and  contains  near  3000 
men,  and  not  a  woman.  Of  these  about  1000  may  be  gylongs, 
some  of  the  former  chiefs  adherents,  who  are  kept  in  a  kind  of 
imprisonment,  and  the  rest  the  Bajah  and  Lama's  officers,  and  all 
their  train  of  servants.  A  tower,  about  five  or  six  stories  high, 
rises  in  the  middle,  and  is  appropriated  to  Lama-Bimboch6.^  He 
dwells  near  the  top.  His  apartments  are  famished  in  the  style  of 
the  Bajah's,  but  better.  Li  the  former  chiefs  days  nobody  could 
see  him,  bat  times  are  altered.  His  reception  was  like  the  Bajah's, 
only  no  khUai  or  whisky.  On  our  arrival  he  lived  in  a  castle  on 
a  httle  mount  behind  the  palace.  His  apartments  ware  finished 
while  we  were  there,  and  a  large  image  oi  Sakya  was  gilded  and 
set  up  in  his  presence  chamber.  When  he  came  down  the  Bajah 
went  out  to  meet  him.  After  the  first  visit  he  used  to  receive  us 
without  any  ceremony,  and  appeared  to  have  more  curiosity  than 
any  man  I  have  seen  in  the  country.     One  day  Mr.  Hamilton  was 

*  This  was  Maria.  Olegitimaledaugh-  who  died  in  1834;  and  of  the  Prinoes 

ter  of  the  Hon.  Sir  Edward  Walpole,  Sophia  of  Gloaoeeter,  who  was  bom  in 

E.B.  As  Dowager  Goonteas  Waldegravc  1773,  and  died  in  1844. 

alie  was  married,  in  1766,  to  the  Duke  of  '  Sohlagintweit  has  Runpoch^;  but 

Glouoester,  brother  of  (George  IIL,  and  Bogle  is  right.    This  is  the  Dharma 

was  mother  of  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  Bajah  of  the  Hindus. 


Ch.  m.]        SERVICES  AND  DANCES  OP  THE  PRIESTS.  27 

shomDg  him  a  microsoope,  and  went  to  catoh  a  fly;  the  whole 
room  was  in  confusion,  and  the  Lama  frightened  out  of  his  wits 
lest  he  shonld  have  killed  it.  We  used  to  get  dinners  at  the 
Lama's — hoiled  lioe,  with  sugar  and  butter,  and  a  stew  of  bits  of 
kid,  with  slices  of  cucumbers,  and  well  seasoned  with  red  pepper — 
it  is  called  ffioffu.  He  partook  of  the  dessert,  which  consisted 
of  fruits  and  sour  curds  cut  like  pieces  of  leather,  and  Med  with 
butter  and  honey.  He  has  got  a  little  lap-dog  and  a  mungoos, 
which  he  is  very  fond  of.  He  is  a  thin  sickly-looking  man  of  about 
thirty-fiye  years  of  age. 

The  palace  is  divided  into  courts,  flanked  with  galleries,  sup- 
ported on  wooden  piUars  running  round  them,  like  the  inns  in 
England.  The  difierent  officers  have  each  their  apartments.  The 
gylongs  live  in  a  large  church,^  besides  which  there  is  a  smaller 
one  where  they  officiate,  and  where  the  larger  images  are  kept. 
These  images  are  mostly  decent  and  well-proportioned  figures, 
sitting  cross-legged.  There  is  a  large  gallery  above  the  church, 
painted  with  festoons  of  death's-head  and  bones,  wheie  folks  go  to 
see  the  ceremonies.  I  went  once  or  twice  myself;  and  the  Bajah, 
thinkmg  I  was  fond  of  it,  used  to  send  for  me  to  church  by  break 
of  day  and  at  all  houref,  and  congratulated  me  greatly  on  my 
good  fortune  in  happening  to  be  at  Tassisudon  during  the  grand 
fiBstival.  All  the  goyemors  of  proyinces  repaired  there  to  the 
presence,  and  there  were  dances  every  day  in  one  of  the  courts 
of  the  palace.  About  twenty  gylongs,  dressed  in  various  coloured 
satin  cloaks  and  gilded  mitres,  were  seated  on  a  bench,  with  each  a 
large  tabor  or  drum,  resting  on  a  stick  which  they  held  in  one 
hand,  and  in  the  other  a  crooked  rod  of  iron,  with  a  knob  at  the  end 
of  it,  with  which  they  beat  time  to  a  priest,  who  was  placed  in  the 
midst  of  them,  with  two  silver  cups  which  he  struck  against  each 
other.  A  yellow  satin  curtain  was  drawn  before  the  door  of  the 
lesser  church,  from  behind  which  run  out  six,  eight,  ten,  and 
sometimes  a  score  of  priests  in  masquerade  dresses,  with  visors  like 
horses'  heads,  like  beaks  of  birds,  or  other  grotesque  figures.  They 
danced  and  capered  with  whimsical  gestures,  the  burden  of  which 
was  to  throw  down  their  heads  till  the  red  tuft  of  hair  touched  the 
ground,  and  then  suddenly  toss  it  up  again.    Between  the  acts  we 

^  Vihary  or  monastery.    The  leaser  building  is  the  chaiiya  or  church. 


28  MANNEBS  AND  CUSTOMS.  [Gb.  III. 

had  smging  by  the  peasants,  and  abundance  of  antic  tricks  by  two 
or  three  merry  Andrews. 

The  walls  of  the  palace  ^  are  between  two  and  three  stories  high, 
aod  bmlt,  as  all  walls  in  this  country  are,  inclining  inwards. 
What  with  stairs,  pillars,  galleries,  and  roofe,  there  is  an  immense 
quantity  of  timber  about  it.  The  building  of  it  stripped  naked 
several  mountains.  The  roofs  are  of  planks  two  or  three  deep,  and 
kept  down  by  stones;  and  the  load  of  beams  and  open  wooden 
woik  which  is  used  to  support  them  gives  the  upper  parts  of  the 
palace  the  look  of  the  centres  of  Blackfriars  Bridge.'  The  roof 
of  the  Lama's  tower  is  entirely  gilt,  is  ornamented  with  dragons, 
&c.,  and  rises  like  the  top  of  a  Chinese  temple. 

The  palace  gates  are  shut  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening,  after 
which  nobody  is  allowed  to  go  out  or  in.  The  inhabitants  seldom 
stir  out,  except  once  in  eight  or  ten  days,  in  a  string  of  500  or  600, 
to  bathe  in  the  Ghinchu.^  They  seem  to  lead  a  joyless,  and,  I 
think,  an  idle  life;  for  so  much  authority  is  given  into  the 
hands  of  the  provincial  governors  that  very  Uttle  is  done  at  the 
Sadar.^  They  have  little  connection  with  foreign  states,  Teshu 
Lama  excepted,  and  less  intercourse  with  strangers. 

Among  a  people  where  there  is  no  pre-eminence  of  birth,  and 
no  finery  in  dress,  there  cannot  well  be  much  pride.  The  Bhutanese 
seem  to  have  none  of  it,  and  live  among  their  servants  and  dependents 
on  the  most  familiar  footing.  One  day  the  Governor  (Jong-pen)* 
of  Tassisudon  asked  me  to  a  match  at  quoits.^  All  his  own  people 
were  of  the  party.  They  are  very  dexterous  at  it,  and  I  soon  gave 
over  a  diversion  where  I  could  get  no  credit,  and  betook  myself  to 
shooting  wild  pigeons.  After  it  was  over  we  sat  down  upon  the 
ground  to  dinner.  When  we  had  drunk  a  dish  of  tea,  and  eaten  three 
hard-boiled  eggs  a-piece,  a  basket  full  of  boiled  rice  was  brought,  and 
dj'^tributed  in  handfols,  together  with  boiled  pork  cut  into  steaks, 

'  See  the  plate  in  *  Turner.'    This  '  Tnmer  gives  an  engraving  of  this 

palace  is  said  to  have  been  built  bj  Deb  bathing  procession. 
Jndhur,  and  was  burnt  down  during  a  *  That  is  the  court  or  chief  place, 

civil  war,  a  few  years  ago.    It  is  now  '  Jong,  a  castle.    Pen^  head  or  chief, 

rebuilt.  '  See  Pemberton,  p.  86,  where  he 

'  Beg^n  in  1760,  and  opened  in  1769.  describes    the    gfuue    as    played   in 

Bogle  would  have  seen  the  centerings  Bhutan, 
in  the  arches  before  he  left  England. 


Ch.  I£L]  a  funeral  PILR  29 

hogs'  hearts,  and  ffiagu.  We  ate  off  cloths,  and  with  onr  fingers,  and 
when  the  repast  was  finished  had  a  cup  of  whisky  and  some  froit. 

They  say  there  is  HtUe  ceremony  at  the  Bhntanese  marriages. 
The  parties  satisfied  with  each  other  have  no  occasion  for  the 
sacerdotal  benediction,  and  the  priests,  condemned  to  celibacy 
themselves,  will  not  be  instrumental  in  breaking  it  in  others. 
Polygamy  is  not  allowed;  divorces  are,  where  there  are  no  children. 

The  Bhutanese,  like  their  neighbours  in  Bengal,  bum  their  dead. 
One  of  the  priests  in  the  palace  happening  to  die,  I  went  to  see  the 
ceremony.  It  was  the  third  day  after  his  death.  I  found  about 
forty  priests  assembled  in  a  tent  on  the  side  of  a  rivulet  which  runs 
by  the  palace,  and  employed  in  chanting  their  prayers,  while  some 
workmen  were  cutting  timber  and  forming  the  funeral  pile.  As 
they  objected  to  my  remaining  near  the  tent,  I  crossed  the  brook, 
and  ascended  a  little  bank  which  overlooked  the  place  where  the 
obsequies  were  to  be  performed.  At  about  20  yards  from  the  pile 
a  temporary  booth  was  erected,  from  which  tea  was  occasionally 
distributed  to  the  clergy,  and  some  large  pots  that  were  boiling  on 
the  fire  seemed  to  promise  a  more  solid  repast.  The  priests  con- 
tinued at  different  intervals  to  recite  their  offices  in  a  low  voice, 
accompanying  them  with  the  tinkling  of  bells  and  the  sound  of 
tabors  and  trumpets,  and  some  old  women,  placed  at  a  distance, 
were  counting  their  beads  and  repeating  their  Om  mani  padmi 
hums  I  ^  When  night  came  on,  the  body,  wrapped  in  a  linen  sheet, 
was  silently  brought,  and  at  the  same  instant  that  it  was  laid  on 
the  pile  a  shrill  pipe,  like  a  cat-call,  was  sounded.  All  this  passed 
in  the  dark.  Then  a  relation  of  the  deceased  came  with  a  Hghted 
brand  in  his  hand,  and  set  fire  to  the  pile.  Two  of  the  priests  fed 
it  with  fresh  wood ;  another,  dressed  in  white,  threw  in  from  time 
to  time  spices,  salt,  butter,  oil,  betel  leaf,  and  twenty  other  articles, 
and  the  rest  joined  in  a  flourish  with  trumpets,  bells,  and  tabors, 
while  each  of  these  different  rites  were  performing.  The  fire 
burned  slowly,  a  heavy  shower  of  rain  came  on,  and  I  returned 
home  without  waiting  till  the  conclusion  of  the  ceremony.    It  is 

^  The  &voorite  prayer  of  the  Tibetan  in  the  Dalai  Lama.    The  lotns  is  the 

BnddhistB.     It  means  "  Oh  the  jewel  symbol  of  highest  perfection,  and  the 

in  the  lotnsi  Amen."     It  is  an  inyo-  inTOcation  is  an  allusion  to  Padma- 

oation  to  Padmapani,  who  is  incarnate  pani's  genesis  from  that  flower. 


so  POSITION  OF  WOMEN.  [Oh.  HP 

nsnal,  I  am  told,  to  collect  the  ashes  on  the  third  day  after  the 
funeral,  and  carrying  them  in  solemn  procession  to  throw  them  into 
the  river  Ghinchn. 

The  barbarous  Hindu  custom  of  women  burning  themselyes 
with  their  husbands  is  unknown  in  this  country.  The  Bhutanese 
wives  never  give  such  heroic  proofe  of  their  fortitude  and  affection, 
and  this  difference  in  their  conduct  naturally  arises  from  the 
manners  peculiar  to  each  country. 

The  practice  of  burning  has  been  considered  by  some  as  a 
political  institution  to  deter  women  from  poisoning  their  husbands, 
and  by  others  as  proceeding  solely  from  excessive  love.  The  first 
opinion  seems  as  groundless  as  it  is  ungenerous,  and  the  last 
is,  perhaps,  too  refined  for  this  iron  age.  Mankind  are  neither  so 
good  nor  so  bad  as  they  are  generally  represented.  Human  life  is 
a  stream  formed  and  impelled  by  a  variety  of  passions,  and  its 
actions  seldom  flow  from  single  and  unmixed  sources. 

A  Hindu  woman,  married  at  an  early  age,  and  immured  within 
the  walls  of  a  zenana,  is  unacquainted  with  all  those  pleasures  and 
avocations  to  which  a  liberal  education  or  the  free  intercourse  of 
society  gives  birth.  A  fondness  for  dress  and  the  management  of 
her  fisunily  occupy  her  whole  attention,  and  the  solaces  of  conjugal 
and  maternal  affection  are  the  only  source  of  her  enjoyments.  She 
lives  but  for  her  husband  and  her  children,  and  every  passion  of 
her  soul,  heightened  by  the  force  of  the  climate,  is  centered  in 
them.  On  the  death  of  her  husband,  by  devoting  herself  to  the 
fiames  she  performs  an  action  meritorious  in  the  highest  degree, 
and  which  reflects  the  greatest  honour  on  herself  and  her  fiunily. 
If  she  survives  him  she  is  confined  to  her  room,  condemned  to  per- 
petual widowhood,  obliged  to  lay  aside  all  gaudy  apparel,  and  to  feed 
on  the  most  abstemious  diet.  ^  Alas ! "  says  she,  *^  a  life  so  gloomy 
and  joyless  is  not  worth  preserving — is  not  to  be  supported."  Her 
heart  sinks  in  despair,  and  is  overwhelmed  vnth  grief  and  affec(a<m 
for  her  husband.  Now  zeal  for  the  honour  of  her  children  and  the 
desire  of  distinguishing  herself  combine  with  this  indifference  for 
life.  She  forms  the  feital  resolution  while  under  the  first  impres- 
sion of  these  different  passions,  and  mounts  the  faneral  pUe  before 
they  have  had  time  to  spend  their  force. 

But  the  institution  of  castes  and  every  other  hereditary  dis- 


Gh.  m.]  TROUBLE  WITH  SEBVANTB.  81 

tmction  being  unknown  in  Bhntan,  the  eleyated  sentiments  which 
spring  from  a  conscionsness  of  saperiority  are  never  felt.  The 
women  in  particnlar  are  degraded  by  this  levelling  system.  As  the 
Bajah,  the  priestsy  and  all  the  offioers  of  govemment  lead  a  lifa  of 
celibacy^  they  are  married  only  to  landholders  or  hnsbandmen. 
They  are  employed  in  the  most  laborious  offices,  they  are  dirty  in 
their  persons,  they  nse  strong  liquors,  they  are  bred  np  in  the 
greatest  liberty,  they  mix  with  the  lowest  class  of  people ;  they  are 
allowed  to  enter  into  a  second  marriage,  and  the  death  of  a  husband 
opens  to  them  no  such  dismal  prospect 

At  Tassisudon  a  peasant  came  to  visit  me  who  had  been  taken 
prisoner  in  Bahar  Fort,  and  after  being  kept  some  months  had  been 
sent  back  safe  and  sound  to  his  own  country.  He  had  come  two 
days'  journey  to  teU  me  the  story,  and  to  present  me  with  a  goat,  a 
roll  of  butter,  and  some  rice  as  a  mark  of  his  gratitude.  He  paid 
me  several  visits  afterwards,  and  gave  me  a  bow  and  arrows.  It 
would  be  a  pity  to  omit  his  name,  it  was  XJchong ;  nor  the  officer's, 
who  released  him,  it  was  Captain  Jones.^ 

Servants  are  so  much  used  to  usurp  a  degree  of  authority  in 
Bengal  that  it  was  difficult  to  restrain  them  from  asffriming  it 
towards  the  Bhutanese.^  But  what  threatenings  and  even  punish- 
ments could  not  do  was  brought  about  by  an  old  woman.  On 
some  difference  with  one  of  my  people,  she  took  up  a  stone  and 
offered  to  knock  a  servant  down.  After  this  there  were  no 
more  complaints. 

Some  stages  from  Tassisudon  we  were  joined  by  a  servant  sent 
by  the  Deb  Bajah  to  facilitate  our  journey.  He  was  like  a  jemi- 
dar  of  harkaras.  Having  a  dispute  about  my  horse  with  the 
head  man  of  a  small  village,  he  wanted  to  strike  him,  and  in 
endeavouring  to  wrest  a  bow  from  one  of  the  bystanders  he  hit 
him  a  blow  in  the  scuffle.  In  a  moment  half-a-dozen  arrows  were 
pointed  at  his  breast,  and  he  escaped  the  fate  of  St.  Sebastian  only 
by  getting  out  of  the  way. 

Whenever  a  Bhutanese  offers  anything  to  eat  or  drink  he  first 

>  See  ante,  note  at  p.  1.  large  Tillage  to  submit  and  return  to 

*  In  1863,  in  Jyntea,  Colonel  Hangh-  their  homes,  his  labour  was  nearly  frus- 

ton  tells  me  that,  haying  with  great  trated  by  the  oondnct  of  the  only  ser- 

difficnlty  induced  the  people  of  a  very  vant  he  had. 


82  TEMPLES  AND  PRAYING  WHEELS.  [Ch.  IIL 

tastes  it  himself,  or  makes  one  of  his  people  do  bo,  to  remove 
mistrust.  This  suggests  a  bad  idea.  But  forms  and  customs  often 
outlive  the  state  of  society  which  gave  birth  to  them. 

Every  man  in  the  palace  is  dressed  in  a  darkish  red  woollen 
doth.^  They  are  remarkably  dirty  in  their  persons,  even  to  the 
Bajah's  dewans.    He  himself  is  an  exception. 

The  horses  are  unshod  tanguns,^  with  hoofs  as  hard  as  iron ;  all 
stallions,  extremely  vicious  when  young,  and  ill  broke  in.  The 
saddle  is  of  wood,  with  a  peak  8  or  9  inches  high,  which  the  rider 
holds  on  by,  and  which  keeps  him  from  slipping  off  in  descents. 
The  stirrups  are  remarkably  short.  The  bridle  is  generally  tied 
round  the  nose,  and  the  horses  led.  They  use  mules  for  very  steep 
or  difficult  paths.     They  are  brought  from  Teshu  Lama's  country. 

In  about  the  middle  of  August  droves  of  cow-tailed  cattle  ^  were 
brought  to  Tassisudon.  During  the  hot  months  they  are  kept 
among  the  coldest  mountains.  All  the  butter  is  made  of  their  milk, 
and  is  very  rich  and  good.  Their  beef  is  lean  and  coarse.  The 
Bhutanese  hang  it  up  to  dry,  and  often  eat  it  when  one  would  think 
the  smell  sufficient.  Their  principal  food,  however,  is  pork  and 
dried  fish  from  Bengal  mixed  with  their  rice.  Their  bread  is  made 
of  unsifted  flour.  They  use  a  great  deal  of  butter,  and  I  got  as 
much  in  presents  as  would  have  set  me  up  for  a  tallow-chandler. 

There  are  numbers  of  temples  on  all  the  roads.  One  kind  is  a 
long  wall,  with  stones  inscribed  Om  mani  padmi  hum  I  all 
round,  and  small  basso-relievo  figures,  with  gilt  faces  cut  in  black 
marble,  and  placed  in  the  middle  and  at  each  end.  Sometimes 
they  have  Om  mani  padmi  hum  written  on  a  barrel  and  turned 
round  by  water.^  Another  kind  of  temple  is  a  house  about 
16  feet  square,  and  they  take  a  most  effectual  way  to  preserve  it 
unpolluted  by  giving  it  no  doors  or  windows.^  In  every  house 
there  is  a  small  altar  for  the  household  gods,  which  they  set  out 
with  chanks  *  and  flowers,  and  daily  offer  up  their  devotions  to 
them. 

*  Sign  of  belonging  to  the  Nyangi-  *  This  ia  the  real  temple  or  chaitya^ 
napa  sect    (See  note  at  p.  24.)  which  is  solid. 

*  Only  ponies.    There  are  no  horses  >  Large  shells  iBtuxmum)  frtmi  the 
in  Bhutan.    (See  note  at  p.  17.)  Gulf  of  Manar  and  Bay  of  Bengal,  used 

*  Yaks.  by  the  Hindus  for  sounding  in  worship, 

*  Praying  wheels.  and  by  their  women,  cut  into  bracelets. 


Oh.  rV.]  THE  LAMAS.  33 


CHAPTEE  IV. 

HISTORY  AND  GOVERNMENT  OF  BHUTAN. 

Ik  ancient  times  this  hilly  conntry  was  parcelled  out  among  a 
nnmber  of  independent  chieftains.  A  lama  from  the  north  nnited 
them  nnder  one  government,  and  introduced  his  religion  among 
them.  His  death  gave  birth  to  three  lamas.  His  body  fell 
to  the  share  of  one ;  his  heart  to  another ;  and  his  mouth  or 
word  to  a  third.  Upon  the  death  of  these  holy  men,  their  souls 
pass  into  the  bodies  of  children,  who,  after  a  strict  examination 
into  their  identity,  are  recognized  ;  and  thus  a  succession  of  saints 
under  yarious  forms,  but  animated  by  the  same  spirit,  have  con- 
tinued, at  different  intervals,  to  enlighten  this  comer  of  the  world. 
The  periodical  return  of  the  lamas  to  the  earth  is  undeterminate. 
At  present  there  are  only  two,  viz.  the  body  and  the  heart.  The 
word  died  about  twelve  years  ago,  and  having  never  since  appeared, 
it  is  uncertain  whether  his  soul  may  not  be  swallowed  up  in  that 
ineffable  spirit,  of  which  it  is  only  an  emanation. 

The  lamas  are  first  in  rank,  and  nominally  first  in  power. 
They  enjoy  a  joint  and  coequal  authority ;  and  in  all  their  deUbera^ 
tions  are  assisted  by  the  clergy. 

The  apparent  wisdom  of  this  system  is  evident.  In  other 
governments,  to  qualify  a  person  for  the  supreme  administration 
requires  a  course  of  study  and  observation  too  long  for  human  life ; 
and  after  all,  the  waywardness  of  subjects  will  dispute  his  com- 
mands ;  but  in  Bhutan  the  chief  magistrate  is  instructed  by  the 
experience  of  ages,  and  his  orders  carry  with  them  all  the  weight 
which  on  this  account  they  deserve. 

But  the  time  and  attention  of  these  holy  men  being  engaged  in 
the  duties  of  religion,  the  executive  part  of  government  is  entrusted 
to  a  person  styled  Eushu  Debu.^ 

>  The  Gk>yernmeat  of  Bhutan,  ts  of  chief.  That  chief  being  by  profes- 
Tibet,  and  of  Japan,  is  a  theocracy,  as-  sion  a  recluse,  the  active  duties  are 
signing  the  first  place  to  the  spiritual      discharged    ordinarily  by   a    deputy. 


34  PRIESTS,  OFFICIAL,  AND  PEASANTS.  [Oh.  IV. 

The  various  occnpations  to  which  the  wants  of  a  refined  and 
lozarions  people  give  rise,  are  litUe  known  in  this  ooontrj.  The 
number  of  mechanics  is  inconsiderable ;  there  is  hardly  any  dis- 
tinction of  professions.  The  same  arm  which  at  one  time  is 
employed  in  tilling  the  ground,  at  another  is  lifted  up  in  its 
defence;  and  the  arrow  which  has  killed  the  wild  goat  or  the 
musk  deer,  is  now  pointed  against  the  breast  of  an  enemy.  Every 
family  is  acquainted  with  most  of  the  useful  arts,  and  contains 
within  itself  almost  all  the  necessaries  of  life.  Even  clothes^ 
which  is  a  considerable  article  in  so  rude  a  climate,  are  generally 
the  produce  of  the  husbandman's  industry.  At  one  season  he  and 
his  sons  carry  the  fruits  of  their  ground,  and  barter  them  for  the 
wool  of  Teshu  Lama's  country.  This  is  spun,  dyed,  and  wove 
into  cloth,  by  his  wife  and  daughters ;  the  &mily  are  clad ;  and 
what  remains  is  either  disposed  of  to  his  neighbours,  or  trans- 
ported, at  a  different  season,  with  his  musk  and  horses,  to 
Bangpur,  and  exchanged  for  hogs,  salf  fish,  coarse  linen ;  or  for 
dyes,  spices,  broadcloth,  and  other  articles  which  may  enable  him 
to  carry  on  his  trade  to  Tibet  with  greater  advantage. 

The  inhabitants,  therefore,  may  properly  be  divided  into  three 
classes:  the  priests,  the  servants  or  officers  of  government,  and 
the  landholders  and  husbandmen.  The  priests  are  formed  from 
among  the  body  of  the  people.  They  are  received  at  an  early 
age;  instructed  in  the  arts,  and  initiated  in  the  mysteries  of  the  pro- 
fession for  which  they  are  destined.  When  admitted  into  orders, 
they  take  a  vow  to  live  chaste,  to  kill  no  Uving  creature,  and  to 
abstain  from  eating  animal  food  on  the  day  on  which  it  is  killed. 
The  second  class  comprehends  ministers,  governors  of  provinces, 
collectors,  and  all  their  train  of  dependents.  These,  though  not 
absolutely  prohibited  from  mairiage,  yet,  finding  it  a  bar  to  their 
preferment,  seldom  enter  into  that  state.  They  are  taken,  like 
the  priests,  from  fEimilies  in  the  country;  are  bred  up  in  the 
palaces  under  the  patronage  of  some  man  in  office,  by  whom  they 
are  fed  and  clothed,  but  receive  no  wages ;  they  seldom  arrive  at 

Bat  the  subordinates  of  the  one  or  of  or  the  other,  which  it  always  ia  now- 

the  other  will  in  fact  govern  aooording  adays   bj  China,  and  all  the   mor« 

to  their  relative  energy  and  ability,  and  easily  because  of  the  plnrality  of  the 

often  according  as  the  weight  of  foreign  soi-disant  divinities, 
influence  is  thrown  into  the  one  acale 


Gh.  IV.]         INFLUENCE  OF  THE  PRIESTS  IN  BHUTAN.  35 

places  of  trust  or  consequence  till  &r  advanced  in  life ;  and  having 
passed  through  aU  the  different  gradations  of  service,  it  is  no 
uncommon  thing  to  see  a  minister  as  expert  in  mending  a  shoe  or 
making  a  tunic,  as  in  settling  the  business  of  the  nation.  The 
landholders  and  husbandmen,  although  by  &r  the  most  numerous 
daas,  and  that  which  gives  birth  to  the  other  two,  are  entirely 
excluded  from  any  share  in  the  administration.  They  live  at 
home,  cultivate  their  lands,  pay  taxes,  serve  in  the  wars,  and  beget 
children  who  succeed  to  honours  to  which  they  themselves  could 
never  aspire. 

Among  these  different  classes,  the  priests,  in  point  of  poUtical 
importance,  hold  the  first  place ;  and  independent  of  that  influence 
which  their  holy  character  and  superior  learning  give  them  over 
the  minds  of  a  superstitious  people,  enjoy  privileges  so  extensive 
that  the  chief  power  appears  in  fact  to  reside  in  their  order.  The 
lamas,  though  nominally  supreme  in  the  government,  yet,  as  they 
owe  their  appointment  to  the  priests,  are  tutored  by  them  from 
their  earliest  in£mcy,  and,  deriving  all  their  knowledge  of  pubUc 
affidrs  &om  them,  are  entirely  under  their  management.  The 
right  of  electing  the  Deb  Bajah  is  vested  in  the  superiors  of  their 
order,  jointly  with  the  lamas.  He  is  bound  to  consult  vnth  them 
as  to  peace  or  war,  and  in  general  to  take  no  measure  of  con- 
sequence without  their  advice  and  approbation.  He  is  accountable 
to  them  for  the  exercise  of  his  power,  and  holds  it  only  during 
their  pleasura  Their  sacred  profession,  so  &r  from  disqualifying 
them  from  the  conduct  of  civil  affitirs,  is  the  means  of  advancing 
them  to  it.  They  are  often  appointed  to  the  government  of  pro- 
vinces, employed  as  ministers,  or  entrusted  with  other  offices  of  the 
first  consideration  in  the  state.  The  chief  is  frequentiy  chosen 
&om  the  sacerdotal  order,  or  if  from  among  the  lay  officers  is 
immediately  received  into  it.^  As  the  priests  are  taken  from  among 
the  subjects  at  large,  and  keep  up  an  intercourse  vnth  their  re- 
spective fiunilies,  they  naturally  retain  an  influence  in  every  part 
of  the  country,  and  in  all  their  measures  are  sure  to  be  supported 
by  the  people.     The  late  revolution  in  the  government  affords  a 

*  TLe  above  la  not  clear.  It  may  are  cited  at  p.  87  infra,  quoad  the 
help  to  make  it  so  to  compare  the  pas-  social  aspect  of  the  case,  for,  in  a  politi- 
sages  in  Mr.  Hodgson's  book,  which      cal  view,  the  Nepal  example  holds  not. 

D  2 


36  GOVERNMENT.    REVENUE.  [Ch.  IV. 

striking  proof  of  their  authority;  and  by  accnstoming  the  people  to 
look  np  to  them  for  the  redress  of  their  grievances,  serves  also  to 
confirm  it.  The  institution  of  castes  and  every  other  hereditary 
distinction  being  unknown  in  this  country,  offices  of  power  are  the 
oidy  source  of  pre-eminence;  and  this  system  of  equality,  while  it 
prevents  the  violent  commotions  to  which  the  rivalship  of  pride 
and  ambition  gives  rise,  leaves  no  competitor  to  dispute  the  dominion 
of  the  priests.  Thus  the  power  of  the  clergy,  founded  on  deep- 
rooted  prejudices  and  pretensions  of  divine  origin,  interwoven  in 
the  nature  of  the  constitution,  and  supported  by  the  uniform  spirit 
of  an  order  that  never  dies,  is  likely  to  be  as  permanent  as  it  is 
considerable. 

But  although  the  Deb  Bajah  is  liable  to  be  deposed  by  the 
clergy,  instances  of  this  seldom  occur ;  and  his  authority  in  the 
internal  government  of  the  country  appears  to  be  very  complete. 
The  appointment  to  offices,  the  collection  and  management  of  the 
revenue,  the  command  and  direction  of  the  military  force,  and  the 
power  of  life  and  death,  are  vested  in  him.  The  scantiness,  how- 
ever, of  his  revenue,  which  it  is  difficult  to  increase,  the  want  ot 
mercenary  troops,  the  nature  of  the  country,  the  free  spirit  of  the 
people,  and  his  own  advanced  age  when  he  is  raised  to  the  govern- 
ment, are  strong  obstacles  to  his  becoming  independent. 

The  provincial  governors  are  entrusted  with  a  very  ample  joris- 
diotion.  The  police  of  the  country,  the  levying  of  taxes,  and  the 
administration  of  justice,  are  committed  to  them.  Complaints  against 
them  are  seldom  preferred  or  attended  to ;  and  their  judgments  are 
revised  by  the  chief  only  in  capital  cases,  or  others  of  great  con- 
sequence. They  are  not  continued  long  at  one  station.  They  live 
in  a  large  palace,  are  surrounded  by  priests  and  officers,  and  their 
durbar  is  an  epitome  of  the  court  of  the  chief. 

The  taxes,  moderate  in  themselves,  are  rendered  still  lese 
oppressive  by  the  simple  manner  of  gathering  them.  Every 
family,  according  to  its  substance,  is  rated  at  a  particular  som^ 
which  is  often  received  in  produce;  and  this  mode  of  collection, 
however  repugnant  to  the  refined  ideas  of  European  policy,  leaves 
them  unencumbered  with  a  heavy  expense  for  tax-gatherers,  and 
precludes  the  necessity  of  employing  a  numerous  body  of  subjects 
in  a  vocation  so  useless  to  the  state  and  so  vexatious  to  the  people. 


Ch.  IV.]  CABEEB  OF  DEB  JUDHUB.  87 

Afl  the  public  reyeziae  is  small,  the  expenses  of  goyeniment  are 
proportionally  moderate.  The  officers  receive  no  salaries;  the 
troops,  composed  of  the  inhabitants  trained  to  the  nse  of  the  bow, 
and  bonnd  to  follow  the  standard  of  their  chief,  are  supported  at  a 
trifling  charge;  and  pomp  and  luxury  being  unknown,  the  ex- 
penses  of  the  court  are  inconsiderable.  The  principal  drains,  then, 
upon  the  pubUc  treasury,  are  an  annual  payment  to  Teshu  Lama, 
and  the  establishment  of  a  numerous  body  of  priests,  whom  it  is 
much  the  interest  of  the  chief  to  gratify. 

The  simpUcity  of  their  manners,  their  slight  intercourse  with 
strangers,  and  a  strong  sense  of  religion,  preserve  the  Bhutanese  from 
many  vices  to  which  more  polished  nations  are  addicted.  They  are 
strangers  to  falsehood  and  ingratitude.  Theft,  and  every  other 
species  of  dishonesty  to  which  the  lust  of  money  gives  birth,  are 
little  known.  Murder  is  uncommon,  and  in  general  is  the  effect  of 
anger,  not  of  covetousnesa  The  celibacy  of  a  large  part  of  the 
people,^  however,  is  naturally  productive  of  many  irregularities,  and 
the  coldness  of  the  climate  inclines  them  to  an  excessive  use  of 
spirituo™  liquors. 

Deb  Judhur^  was  raised  to  the  government  about  seven  years 
ago.^  Having  been  employed  in  different  enterprises  against  the 
neighbouring  chiefe,  and  having  filled  the  highest  offices  in  the 
country,  he  acquired  a  considerable  degree  of  wealth  and  import* 
anoe  before  his  succession  to  the  chiefship,  and  owed  his  election 
more  to  intrigue  and  a  dread  of  his  power  than  to  the  free  choice 
of  the  clergy.  A  rooted  enmity,  founded  on  a  natural  opposition 
of  interest,  took  place  between  him  and  Lama-Bimboche.  The 
executive  power  was  in  his  hands;  the  supreme  authority  and 
control  were  claimed  by  the  other.  His  bold  and  restless  spirit 
was  unable  to  brook  the  cautious  maxims  of  priests,  and  he  endea- 
voured by  every  means  to  render  himself  independent  of  their 
authority.  With  this  view  he  strengthened  his  connection  with 
Teshu  Lama  and  the  Bajah  of  Nepal ;  he  endeavoured  to  secure 

>  The  extent    and    nature   of  this  Tibet,'  pp.  51,   52,  63,   64,  and   139 

celibacy,     and    more    generally    the  et  seq. 

nature    of   the    claadfication    of   the  '  The  ruler  who  invaded  Kuch  fiahar, 

people    in   a  Buddhist   country,  will  andcameintooollision  with  the  British. 

be   better  understood  by  reference  to  (Bee  note  at  p.  1.) 
Mr.  Hodgson's  book  '  On  Nepal  and  '  That  is,  in  about  1767. 


38  FALL  OF  DEB  JUDHUK.  [Ch.  IV. 

the  friendship  and  protection  of  the  Emperor  of  China,  by  ciicn- 
lating  his  seal  in  the  country ;  he  kept  the  Lama  in  a  state  ahnost 
of  imprisonment ;  he  transacted  the  most  important  business  with- 
out the  adyice  of  the  priests ;  he  seldom  employed  them  in  any  of 
the  departments  of  goyemment,  and  he  engaged  in  wars  with  his 
neighbours,  and  filled  his  cofiers  with  the  booty  which  he  thereby 
procured.  But  his  administration,  although  more  spirited  than 
that  of  most  of  his  predecessors,  was  &r  from  being  popular.  The 
inhabitants,  obliged  by  the  custom  of  the  country  to  'serve  without 
pay,  were  harassed  with  his  military  enterprises,  from  which  he 
alone  reaped  advantage ;  the  law  by  which  upon  the  death  of  an 
officer  of  government  his  money  and  effects  escheat  to  the  Bajah 
was  by  him  carried  rigidly  into  execution;  and  the  clergy,  excluded 
from  all  share  in  public  affidrs,  and  treated  with  neglect,  encou- 
raged the  general  discontent,  which  was  kept  from  breaking  out 
only  by  the  boldness  and  activity  of  his  measures. 

At  length  he  attempted  the  conquest  of  Euch  Bahar.  His 
undisciplined  militia  was  unable  to  cope  with  regular  troops ;  but 
being  unaccustomed  to  ill  fortune,  he  continued  the  war  in  opposi- 
tion to  the  remonstrances  of  the  clergy  and  his  most  experienced 
counsellors,  and  exerted  every  effort  to  render  it  more  successful. 
The  burdens  which  these  extraordinary  services  imposed  upon  the 
inhabitants  were  rendered  still  more  insupportable  by  an  unfore- 
seen accident.  The  palace  of  Tassisudon  was  burned  to  ashes; 
and  Deb  Judhur,  in  order  to  render  himself  famous  by  rebuilding 
it  in  one  year,  pushed  on  the  work  with  a  severity  little  suited  to 
the  distressed  situation  of  the  country.  The  people  everywhere 
gave  vent  to  their  complaints ;  and  the  Lama's  party,  seizing  the 
opportunity  of  his  being  absent  with  the  army,  deprived  him  of 
the  government,  issued  orders  to  seize  his  person,  and  elected  the 
present  chief  in  his  stead.  He  received  the  news  of  this  revolution 
while  at  Buxa-Duar  with  Teehu  Lama's  messengers,  and  immediately 
betaking  himself  to  flight,  escaped  by  a  bye  road  to  the  neighbour* 
hood  of  Lhasa.  One  or  two  of  his  principal  officers  were  taken  and 
put  to  death.  The  rest  of  those  who  were  most  obnoxious  followed 
their  master's  fortunes. 

By  this  revolution  Lama-Rimboche  and  his  party  regained  that 
influence  in  the  government  to  which,  by  the  constitution,  they 


Oh.  rV.]      INSUBREOTION  IN  FAVOUR  OF  DEB  JUDHUR.  38 

consider  themselTes  entitled.  The  chief,  whom  they  had  raised 
and  supported,  snbnutted  implicitly  to  their  pleasure ;  the  Emperor 
of  China's  seal  was  suppressed,  and  the  war  in  Bahar  immediately 
discontinued.  Many  of  the  priests,  however,  continued  attached  to 
Deb  Judhur,  who,  tiiough  jealous  of  the  power  of  their  order,  was 
often  liberal  to  individuals;  and  they  were  dissatisfied  with  an 
admiiiistration  that  was  parsimonious  as  well  from  the  genius  of  the 
persons  who  conducted  it  as  the  situation  of  their  affairs.  For  the 
wealth  and  effects  of  Deb  Judhur,  either  from  the  fear  of  driving 
him  to  extremity,  or  of  giving  offence  to  Teshu  Lama,  under  whose 
protection  he  had  taken  refuge,  remained  untouched ;  the  public 
treasury  has  been  exhausted  by  the  war,  and  the  country  from  the 
same  cause  was  little  able  to  replenish  it.  Buch  as  had  held  offices 
under  the  former  government  were  equally  disaffected.  At  first 
several  of  them  had  been  continued  in  their  employments  by  the 
Lama ;  but  afterwards,  either  from  a  suspicion  of  their  fidelity,  or 
in  order  to  provide  for  his  own  friends,  they  were  dismissed,  and 
allowed  to  retire  to  their  houses.  There  they  carried  on  a  secret 
correspondence  with  the  exiled  chief  and  the  priests  in  his  interest, 
and  concerted  the  plan  of  an  insurrection. 

The  Lama,  though  ignorant  of  the  circumstances  of  this  con- 
spiracy, was  no  stranger  to  Deb  Judhur's  pretensions  to  the  govern- 
ment. He  had  received  letters  from  him  asserting  his  claim, 
warning  him  upon  no  account  to  tench  his  property,  and  desiring 
him  to  quit  the  house  which  he  had  built,  as  he  intended  to  return 
to  take  possession  of  it,  and  to  cut  down  his  com  as  soon  as  the 
harvest  v^as  ready.  The  Bajah  of  Nepal  had  refused  to  acknow- 
ledge the  present  chief ;  and  Lama  Shabdong,^  a  child  of  seven  years 
old,  who  had  been  revived  by  Teshu  Lama  about  twelve  months 
before  as  a  check  upon  Lama-Bimboch6,  v^as  tutored  to  declare 
for  Deb  Judhur's  restoration,  and  to  refuse  all  sustenance  unless  it 
was  agreed  to.  Everything,  however,  was  still  quiet  in  the 
country,  when  the  Bajah  set  out  for  a  castle  about  a  day's  journey 
from  Tassisudon,  accompanied  by  Lama  Shabdong,  whom  he  was 
afraid  to  leave  in  the  palace  surrounded  by  the  malcontent  priests. 

'  Pemberton  gives  Lam  Suddoon  as  Sheptan  was  the  first  Lama-Rimbocb^ 
one  of  the  titles  of  the  Dharma  Rajah  and  this  child  was  probably  intended 
or  Lama-Bimboch^  p.  114.    Dnpgain      as  an  avatar  of  some  portion  of  him. 


40  ARGUMENTS  OF  THE  CONTENDING  FACTIONS.      [Oh.  IV. 

The  night  after  his  departure  was  pitched  npon  by  the  oon- 
spiratora  for  executing  their  designs,  and  they  hoped,  by  surprising 
the  palace  and  getting  possession  of  the  Lama  and  the  superiors  of 
the  clergy,  to  strike  at  once  a  decisive  blow.  The  former  governors 
of  Tasaasudon  and  Targa/  with  about  250  men,  were  to  have 
made  the  attack  from  without,  while  their  associates  within  set 
open  the  gates,  and  otherwise  fieusilitated  the  attempt.  But  their 
scheme  being  discovered,  and  several  of  the  priests  immediately  put 
to  death,  they  hastened  to  Simptoka,^  a  castle  about  five  miles  fix>m 
Tassisudon,  and  made  themselves  masters  of  it  without  resist- 
ance. Here  they  found  arms,  ammunition,  provisions,  and  some 
treasure ;  and  being  next  day  joined  by  about  sixty  priests,  who 
found  means  to  escape  from  Tassisudon,  they  had  the  boldness 
to  advance  almost  to  the  gates  of  the  palace. 

As  soon  as  the  Deb  Bajah  was  informed  of  these  particulars  he 
returned  to  Tassisudon  and  prepared  to  oppose  the  insurgents. 
He  has  assembled  men  from  every  part  of  ^e  country;  he  has 
collected  in  the  palace  a  large  magazine  of  stores ;  he  has  burnt 
some  villages  which  were  favourable  to  the  enemy ;  and  his  prin^ 
cipal  officers,  with  a  considerable  body  of  troops,  are  now  endea* 
vouring  to  reduce  Simptoka.  This  enterprise,  however,  may  cost 
him  some  trouble ;  for  the  place,  although  not  fortified,  is  strong 
by  its  situation,  and  may  stand  out  for  some  time  against  an 
attack  earned  on  with  swords,*bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few  match- 
locks. 

But  while  each  party  thus  has  recourse  to  arms  in  support  of 
their  cause,  they  neglect  not  to  urge  their  respective  titles  by  dint 
of  argument.  The  friends  of  Deb  Judhur,  after  expatiating  on  his 
great  abilities,  contend  that  the  government  of  this  country  is  held 
for  life ;  that  the  instances  of  a  chief  being  deposed  are  so  few,  and 
attended  with  such  peculiar  circumstances,  that  they  cannot  be 
construed  into  a  precedent ;  that  besides,  supposing  such  a  power 
is  really  vested  in  the  clergy,  it  is  in  the  whole  body,  but  that  Deb 
Judhur  was  expelled  by  only  one  of  the  lamas  and  a  junto  of  the 
priests,  without  being  heard  in  his  defence,  while  he  was  absent^ 

*  Tho  Targa  Penlo  was  goveraor  of      Eden  spells  it  Simtoka,  and  deaoribes. 
Central  Bhutan.  it  as  a  little  fort. 

'  Symtoka  of  Turner  (see  p.  125). 


Ch.  IV.]     ARGUMENTS  OF  THE  CONTENDING  FACTIONS.  41 

and  upon  unjust  pietences ;  that  the  rebuilding  of  the  palace  is  a 
service  which  the  subjects  are  undoubtedly  bound  to  perform ;  and 
its  being  expeditiously  finished  was  equally  convenient  to  the  Lama 
and  the  priests  as  to  the  chief;  that  so  far  from  his  persisting  in 
the  war,  he  had  applied  to  Teshu  Lama  for  his  mediation  to  bring 
about  a  peace,  and  was  actually  employed  for  that  purpose  at  the 
time  of  the  revolution. 

Lama-Rimboch6's  party,  on  the  contrary,  insist  that  as  the 
privilege  of  electing  the  chief  resides  in  the  Lama  and  the  clergy, 
they  certainly  have  a  right  to  control  his  conduct  and  to  remove 
him  for  maladministration  ;  and  that  the  history  of  this  country 
furnishes  examples  of  their  having  opposed  and  even  put  the 
chief  to  death.  They  enlarge  upon  the  severity  and  oppression 
of  Deb  Judhur's  government,  his  disregard  of  their  advice,  and, 
to  crown  aU,  they  urge  that  he  endeavoured,  by  introducing  a 
foreign  seal  into  the  country,  to  render  this  state,  naturally  free 
and  independent,  a  proviace  of  the  Chinese  empire. 


42  INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  DEB  RAJAH.  [Ch.  V. 


CHAPTER  V. 

BHUTAN :  NEGOTIATIONS. 

1. 
InTEBVIBW  WITH  THE  DbB   KaJAH.^ 

On  the  day  fixed  to  receiye  me  I  walked  to  the  palace  of  the  Deh 
BajaL  If  theie  is  any  pleasure  in  being  gazed  at,  I  had  enough 
of  it  Being  the  first  European  they  had  ever  seen  in  these  parts, 
the  windows  of  the  palace  and  the  road  that  led  to  it  were  crowded 
with  spectators.  I  dare  say  there  were  3000.  After  passing  through 
three  coarts,  and  climbing  two  iron-plated  ladders,  I  was  carried 
into  an  antechamber  hong  round  with  bows  and  arrows,  swords, 
matchlocks,  cane-coiled  targets,  and  other  implements  of  war,  and 
filled  with  a  number  of  priests,  servants,  &c.,  squatted  down  in 
difierent  places.  Having  waited  here  about  half  an  hour,  I  was 
conducted  to  the  Bajah.  He  was  seated  upon  a  throne,  or  pulpit, 
if  you  please  (for  that  is  what  it  is  hke),  raised  about  two  feet  from 
the  ground.  At  entering  I  made  him  three  low  bows,  instead  of  as 
many  prostrations,  with  which,  according  to  the  etiquette  of  this 
court,  I  ought  to  have  approached  him.  I  then  walked  up  and 
gave  him  a  white  satin  handkerchief,  while  my  servants  laid  my 
presents  of  spices,  cloths,  cutlery,  &c.,  before  him ;  after  which  I 
was  conducted  to  a  cushion  prepared  for  me  at  the  opposite  end  of 
the  room.  As  all  this  passed  in  a  profound  silence,  I  had  now  time 
to  get  over  a  kind  of  flurry  which  it  had  occasioned.  In  the  mean- 
time several  copper  trays,  with  rice,  butter,  treacle,  tea,  walnuts, 
apricots,  cucumbers,  and  other  fruits,  were  set  before  me,  together 
with  a  httle  stool  and  a  china  cup.  But  it  is  time  I  should  make 
you  acquainted  with  the  company,  and  let  you  know  where  you  are. 

>  This  aoooant  of  the  interview  is  the  second  acoonnt  which  Mr.  Bogle 

from  a  letter  of  Mr.  Bogle  to  his  sister,  gave  to  his  sister,  as  being  fuller  and 

The   interview    is   described    in    the  more  graphic. 
Journal  (see  p  24).    I,  however,  insert 


Ch.  v.]  INTEBVIEW  with  the  deb  rajah.  43 

The  Deb  Bajah  was  dressed  in  liis  sacerdotal  habit  of  scarlet 
cotton,  with  gilded  mitre  on  his  head,  and  an  nmbrella  with 
fringes  twirling  over  him.  He  is  a  pleasant-looking  old  man 
with  a  smirking  conntenance.  On  each  side  of  him  his  prin- 
cipal officers  and  ministers  to  the  nnmber  of  a  dozen  ^  were  seated 
upon  cushions  close  to  the  wall,  and  the  rest  of  the  company 
stood  in  the  area  or  among  the  pillars.  The  panels  of  the  room 
and  also  the  ceiling  were  covered  with  Chinese  sewed  landscapes 
and  different  colonred  satins;  the  pnlpit  was  gilded,  and  many 
silver  and  gilt  vases  abont  it;  and  the  floor  all  around  was  laid 
with  carpets.  At  the  opposite  end  of  the  apartment,  and  behind 
where  I  sat,  several  large  Chinese  images  were  placed  in  a  kind  of 
niche  or  alcove,  with  lamps  of  butter  burning  before  them,  and 
ornamented  with  elephants'  teeth,  little  silver  temples,  china-ware, 
silks,  ribbons,  and  other  gewgaws.  Among  these  I  must  not  forget 
a  solitary  print  of  Lady  Waldegrave,^  whom  I  had  afterwards  the 
good  fortune  to  be  the  means  of  rescuing  out  of  the  hands  of  these 
idols ;  for  ''it  happening  to  strike  some  of  the  courtiers — whether 
the  upholsterer,  the  chamberlain,  or  a  page,  I  cannot  pretend  to 
say — that  Lady  Waldegrave  would  make  a  pretty  companion  to  a 
looking-glass  I  had  given  the  Bajah,  she  was  hung  up  on  one  of 
the  pillars  next  the  throne,  and  the  mirror  on  the  other ;  and  as  I 
wotdd  wish  to  give  you  the  best  and  latest  accounts,  you  may 
depend  upon  it  that  things  continue  still  in  that  posture,  agreeable 
to  the  arrangement  I  found  at  my  second  visit. 

Li  came  a  man  carrying  a  large  silver  kettle,  with  tea  made 
with  butter  and  spices,  and  having  poured  a  little  into  hia  hand  and 
drank  it,  he  filled  the  Deb  Bajah  a  cup,  then  went  round  to  all  the 
ministers,  who,  as  well  as  every  other  Boot,  are  always  provided 

1  The  oonncil  of  permanent  ministers,  6.  Deb  Zimpen  (Chief  Secretary  to 

in  Bhutan,  is  caUed  Lenehen,  and  con-  the  Deb), 
data  of  ten  members :  7.  Jum  Kaling  (Chief  Jndge). 

1.  Lampa  Zimpen  (Chief  Secretary  8.  Paro  Penlo  (Goyemor  of  West 
to  the  Lama-Rimboch^).  Bhutan). 

2.  Donai  Zimpen  (the  Dewan).  9.  Tongso  Penlo  (Goyemor  of  East 

3.  Timpn    Jongpen    (Goyemor    of  Bhutan).  | 
Tassisudon).                                                    10.  Targa  Penlo  (Governor  of  Central  j 

4.  Punakh    Jongpen   (Governor   of  Bhutan). 
Punakh)  *  See  note  at  p.  26. 

5.  Angdu  Forung  Jongpen  (Gover- 
nor of  Angdu  Forang). 


44  LETTER  FROM  THE  TESHU  LAMA.  [Gfl.  Y. 

with  a  little  wooden  cup,  black  glazed  in  th^  inside,  wrapped  in  a 
bit  of  cloth,  and  lodged  within  their  tunic,  opposite  to  their  heart 
and  next  their  skin,  which  keeps  it  warm  and  comfortable ;  and  last 
of  all  the  cup-bearer  filled  my  dish.  The  Bajah  then  said  a  grace, 
in  which  he  was  joined  by  all  the  company.  When  we  had  finished 
our  tea,  and  every  man  had  well  licked  his  cup,  and  deposited  it  in 
his  bosom,  a  water  tabby  gown,  Uke  what  Aunt  Eatty  used  to  wear, 
with  well-plated  haunches,  was  brought  and  put  on  me ;  a  red  satin 
handkerchief  was  tied  round  me  for  a  girdle.  I  was  conducted  to 
the  throne,  where  the  Deb  Bajah  bound  my  temples  with  another 
satin  handkerchief,  and  squeezing  them  hard  betwixt  his  hands, 
muttered  some  prayers  over  me,  after  which  I  was  led  back  to  my 
cushion.  We  had  next  a  cup  of  whisky  fresh  and  hot  out  of  the 
still,  which  was  serred  round  in  the  same  manner  as  the  tea,  of 
which  we  had  also  two  more  dishes,  and  as  many  graces ;  and  last  of 
all  betel  nut. 

During  these  different  refreshments  a  great  deal  of  complimen- 
tary conversation  passed  between  me  and  the  Deb  through  the 
means  of  an  interpreter,  which,  however  brilliant  and  witty,  I  will 
not  here  set  down.  At  taking  leave  the  Bajah  tied  two  handker- 
chief together,  and  threw  them  over  my  shoulders  by  way  of  a  sash. 
Thus  attired,  I  paid  two  or  three  visits  to  some  of  the  officers  in 
the  palace,  and  walked  home,  like  Mordecai,  in  great  state  to  my 
lodgings. 


2. 

Bbports  to  Wabben  Hastikqs. 

Tassibudon,  July  16,  1774. 

Some  days  before  I  reached  Tassisudon  a  messenger  from 
Teshu  Lama  arrived,  and  delivering  a  Persian  letter,  informed  me 
that  he  had  charge  of  another  from  his  master  to  you,  and  of  some 
presents  which  would  arrive  in  the  evening. 

Being  without  a  munshi,  and  Utile  accustomed  to  the  character 
in  which  it  was  written,  the  Lama's  letter  cost  me  some  pains  to 
decipher.     He  begins  with  his  ''  having  heard  of  my  arrival  at 


Ch.  v.]    OBJECTIONfi  TO  MR.  BOOLE  PBOCEEDINO  TO  TIBET.     45 

Kuch  Bahar  on  my  way  to  him,  and,  after  some  formal  expressions 
of  satisfiBU^tion,  informs  me  that  his  country  being  subject  to  the 
Emperor  of  China,  whose  order  it  is  that  he  shall  admit  no  Moghul, 
Hindustani,  Patau,  or  Fringy,  be  is  without  remedy,  and  China 
being  at  the  distance  of  a  year's  journey  prevents  his  writing  to  the 
Emperor  for  permission ;  desires  me  therefore  to  return  to  Calcutta, 
and  if  I  have  any  effects  (mal)  to  carry  them  with  me,  but  to  retain 
the  letter  in  my  hands,  and  that  he  will  afterwards  send  a  person 
to  Calcutta/'  As  I  cannot  make  out  some  of  the  words  at  the  end 
of  the  letter,  I  beg  leave  to  refer  you  to  the  original,  which  I  have 
now  the  honour  to  enclose. 

The  Goeain,  who  was  down  in  Calcutta,  received  also  a  letter 
from  the  Lama,  in  which  the  reason  assigned  for  delaying  my 
journey  was,  as  he  told  me,  the  great  distress  his  country  was  in  on 
account  of  the  smallpox,  which  had  obliged  him  to  quit  his  usual 
place  of  residence  and  retire  to  the  northward. 

These  two  objections,  however  different,  admitted  of  the  same 
interpretation.  Teshu  Lama  was  averse  to  my  visit,  and  the 
violence  of  the  smallpox,  or  an  order  of  the  Emperor  of  China, 
served  for  a  pretence  as  well  as  any  other.  But  from  what  cause 
this  proceeded  I  cotdd  not  then  discover.  The  messenger  could 
give  me  no  information.  He  was  one  of  the  people  who  had  been 
sent  by  the  Lama  to  Euch  Bahar.  He  had  gone  from  thence  to 
Patna  and  Cbya,  and  as  he  was  returning  home  said  he  was  met  by 
some  of  the  Lama's  people,  who  delivered  to  him  the  despatches 
to  convey  to  me.  The  account  he  gave  of  the  remainder  of  his 
journey  was  equally  unsatisfactory,  and  he  reported  the  place  of  the 
Lama's  residence  to  be  at  a  much  greats  distance  than  was  consis- 
tent with  the  receipt  of  his  letter,  written  after  the  news  of  my 
arrival  at  Euch  Bahar  had  reached  him.  I  determined  to  come  to 
no  resolution  before  I  had  seen  the  Deb  Bajah. 

Li  the  evening  the  Lama's  people  pressed  me  much  to  receive 
the  sillcs,  &c.,  which  he  had  sent  as  presents,  and  to  take  charge  of 
his  letter  to  you.  But  as  this  would  have  been  giving  up  the 
point,  and  would  have  left  me  little  room  to  combat  those  difficulties 
which  I  must  endeavour  to  overcome,  I  excused  myself,  and  begged 
they  would  accompany  me  to  Tassisudon. 

The  Deb  Rajah  was  then  about  15  miles  from  this  place, 


i6  OBSTACLES  TO  PBOGRBSS.  [Gh.  V. 

employed  in  the  performance  of  some  religions  duties.  I  wrote  to 
him  with  the  news  of  my  arrival,  and  waited  two  days  for  his 
answer.  He  mentioned  ^ihe  occasion  of  his  absence;  that  he 
would  be  glad  to  see  me,  and  had  given  orders  for  my  accommoda- 
tion." I  entered  Tassisudon  next  day,  but  his  confidential  people 
being  with  him,  all  business  was  suspended  until  his  return,  which 
v^as  not  before  the  4th  instant. 

When  I  considered  the  situation  in  which  the  Deb  Bajah  stood 
with  respect  to  the  Company,  I  built  great  hopes  on  his  ready 
assistance  to  remove  the  objections  to  my  journey,  and  that  his 
connection  with  Teshu  Lama  would  render  it  effectual  But  I  was 
soon  undeceived ;  for  the  Sajah,  at  my  second  visit,  adopted  and 
even  magnified  the  afiair  of  China ;  advised  me  to  lay  aside  all 
thoughts  of  prosecuting  my  journey ;  and  seconded  Teshu  Lama  s 
desire  that  I  would  return  to  Calcutta.  This  produced  many 
remonstrances  on  my  part.  I  had  frequent  conversations  with  him 
and  his  ofSicers,  and  left  nothing  undone  to  interest  him  in  my 
behalf;  but  I  could  succeed  no  further  than  to  obtain  a  letter  from 
him  to  the  Lama,  which  was  given  vrith  so  much  reluctance  that  I 
am  not  sanguine  about  its  good  effects. 

In  this  situation  my  hopes  of  seeing  Teshu  Lama  were  chiefly 
founded  on  the  Gosain.  As  my  journey  had  been  undertaken  upon 
his  assurances,  he  was  engaged  in  honour  to  see  it  accomphshed, 
and  I  endeavoured  to  strengthen  this  principle  by  more  powerful 
motives.  While  he  remained  at  Tassisudon  he  could  be  of  no 
service,  and  I  readily  consented  to  his  proceeding  to  the  Lama. 

The  messenger  renewed  his  solicitations  that  I  would  take 
charge  of  his  master^s  despatches,  and  I  advised  him  to  proceed  to 
Calcutta.  He  could  not,  he  said,  without  orders.  I  excused 
myself  from  receiving  them  on  the  same  grounds,  and  they  are  to 
remain  with  the  Deb  Bajah  until  I  am  fSavoured  with  your  com- 
mands. The  Lama's  letter  to  you,  from  a  Bhutan  copy  which  was 
read  to  me,  contains  nothing  more  than  the  prohibition  of  the  Court 
of  China  with  respect  to  Fringies.  By  declining  to  receive  it  I 
preserve  a  stronger  hold  upon  the  Lama,  keep  the  negotiation  open, 
and  leave  you  at  liberty  to  act  as  you  may  think  proper. 

The  Gosain  set  out  yesterday,  in  company  with  the  measenger 
and  the  Bhutanese,  who  was  down  in  Calcutta,  and  carried  the  Bajah's 


Cb,  v.]  detention  at  TA88I8UDON.  47 

letter,  with  a  few  lines  from  me  to  the  Lama.  They  are  obliged, 
they  6ay»  to  travel  by  an  indirect  road  on  account  of  the  smallpox, 
and  may  be  twenty  days  before  they  arrive  with  the  Lama ;  but 
they  assure  me  of  an  answer  in  less  than  two  months. 

The  Bajah  urged  my  return  to  Bengal  as  strongly  as  he  decently 
could,  but  the  expectation  of  answers  from  the  Lama  and  from 
Calcutta  afforded  me  reasons  to  prolong  my  stay. 

I  b^  therefore  to  be  informed  of  your  pleasure  in  the  event  of 
the  Lama  persisting  to  refuse  me  admittance  into  his  country,  as 
well  as  in  regard  to  his  letter  and  presents. 


TABBOfwoVf  August  20,  1774. 

I  wish  it  was  in  my  power  to  explain  with  more  certainty  the 
Lama's  motives  for  refusing  me  admittance  into  his  country.  I 
am  persuaded  it  proceeds  from  a  suspicion  of  Europeans.  I  can 
perceive  this  disposition  in  the  Deb  Bajah.  On  the  journey  I  was 
sometimes  led  over  rocks  and  mountains,  with  a  plain  road  running 
parallel  on  the  side  of  the  river.  The  Gosain  and  his  baggage  were 
once  carried  the  one  way,  I  the  other.  My  servants  are  not  suffered 
to  purchase  the  smallest  article  but  through  the  Bajah's  people. 
Some  persons  who  visited  me  before  his  arrival  have  been  forbidden 
since.  His  extreme  solicitude  about  my  departure,  besides  other 
circumstances  too  trifling  to  mention,  are  all  strong  symptoms  of 
this  jealousy.  Now,  as  Teshu  Lama's  country  and  this  are  con- 
tiguous, the  language  and  faith  the  same,  the  Bajah  acknowledges 
the  Lama  to  be  his  religious  superior,  and  sends  him  annually 
money  and  produce,  which  the  one  styles  a  donative,  the  other 
a  tribute.  In  accounting  for  the  conduct  of  two  persons  so  inti- 
mately connected,  one  may  almost  venture  to  decide  from  analogy. 
One  day  in  conversing  with  the  interpreter  he  said  to  me,  I  believe 
unwittingly,  '^  that  he  did  not  imagine  Teshu  Lama  would  allow 
me  to  enter  his  country,  as  the  neighbouring  Bajahs  would  advise 
him  against  it.*' 

I  have  been  obUged,  on  account  of  this  jealous  eye  with  which 
all  my  actions  are  viewed,  to  pursue  a  conduct  very  inconsistent 
with  the  purposes  of  my  mission,  and  to  appear  little  inquisitive, 
particularly  about  the  country  or  its  trade,  lest  it  should  have  raised 


48  REMOVAL  OP  THE  OBSTACLES  TO  PROGRESS.       [Oh.  V. 

np  fresh  obstacles  to  my  journey  to  the  Lama.  His  servants,  how- 
ever, being  now  gone,  and  my  continuance  here  for  two  months 
certain,  I  am  no  longer  under  the  necessity  of  following  the  same 
plan.  But  this  place  is  very  little  favourable  to  my  commercial 
inquiries.  It  is  monkish  to  the  greatest  degree.  The  Bajah,  his 
priests,  his  officers,  and  his  servants,  are  all  immured  like  state 
prisoners  in  an  immense  large  palace,  and  there  are  not  above  a 
dozen  other  houses  in  the  town. 

Upon  my  leaving  Dinajpiir,  Mr.  Lambert  gave  me  a  letter  to 
Muhammad  Taki,  the  Dewan  at  Bangpdr,  who  came  to  visit  me. 
In  speaking  about  Bhutan,  he  sent  for  a  merchant  who  had  been 
all  over  the  country  as  far  as  Lhasa,  Efpoke  the  language,  and  who, 
he  said,  would  go  with  me  if  I  chose  it  I  put  a  good  many  ques- 
tions to  him,  and  he  seemed  an  intelligent  man;  but  afraid  of 
hampering  myself  with  the  Gosain,  I  did  not  ask  him  to  accom- 
pany me.  It  has  since  occurred  to  me  that  this  person  may  be  a 
useful  agent.  His  residence  in  Bengal  will  serve  to  secure  his 
fideUty,  and  in  any  scheme  for  extending  .the  communication  and 
intercourse  between  that  country  and  Bhutan,  it  would  be  easy  to 
give  him  such  encouragement  as  would  make  it  his  interest  to 
promote  it.  The  trade  between  Lhasa  and  the  low  country  is,  as  I 
am  informed,  principally  carried  on  by  the  vray  of  Patna  and 
Nepal  through  the  means  of  Moghuls  and  Kashmiris,  in  which, 
as  he  can  have  no  concern,  he  would  have  no  scruples  in  endeavour^ 
ing  to  discover  new  sources ;  and  the  narrow  traffic  in  which  he 
himself  is  now  engaged  must  lie  very  wide  of  those  distant  and 
extensive  channels  which  you  wish  to  open. 

Should  this  proposal  meet  with  your  approbation,  might  I  re- 
quest you  would  be  pleased  to  issue  your  orders  to  Muhammad  Taki 
to  encourage  this  person  to  proceed  to  me,  and  to  despatch  him 
without  delay.  I  have  taken  the  liberty  to  vmte  to  Taki  on  the 
subject,  but  have  no  reason  to  think  that  either  he  or  the  mer- 
chant will  enter  heartily  into  it  unless  they  know  that  it  is  your 
pleasure. 

In  my  former  advices  I  did  myself  the  honour  to  acquaint  you 
with  the  obstacles  which  Teshu  Lama  raised  to  my  journey,  on 
pretence  of  an  order  from  the  Emperor  of  China  forbidding  the 
admittance  of  Fringies  into  his  country.    I  am  now  happy  to 


Ch.  v.]  PEKMITTED  to  proceed.  49 

infonn  yon  that  he  has  at  length  consented  to  my  proceeding,  and  I 
propose  to  continue  my  joamey  as  soon  as  I  have  the  pleasure  of 
hearing  from  yon.  On  this  occasion  I  have  no  letters  from  the 
Lama  myself,  but  the  Deb  Bajah  informs  me  that  the  Gosain  and 
the  Bhntanese  who  were  down  in  Oalcntta  are  sent  by  the  Lama 
to  wait  my  arrival  on  the  borders  of  his  country.  Having  received 
no  letters  from  Oalcntta  except  immediately  upon  my  arrival,  I  am 
afraid  of  some  miscarriage,  and  therefore  forward  these  few  lines  by 
a  harkara. 

Tabbisudqn,  September  18, 1774. 

A  few  days  before  the  receipt  of  your  orders  the  Deb  Bajah  ^ 
read  to  me  a  letter  from  the  Teshu  Lama,  informing  him  that  he 
had  written  to  Lhasa,  the  residence  of  the  Dalai  Lama,  on  the 
subject  of  my  passports,  and  had  obtained  their  consent  to  my 
proceeding  on  the  journey,  provided  I  came  with  only  a  few 
attendants ;  and  that  he  (the  Lama)  had  therefore  sent  back  the 
Oosain,  who  had  been  down  in  Calcutta,  to  wait  for  me  on  the 
borders  of  his  country. 

From  several  circumstances  I  am  persuaded  the  former  objec- 
tions to  my  journey  took  thdir  rise,  or  at  least  were  cherished  by 
the  Deb.  Even  after  the  Lama*s  permission  he  endeavoured  to 
diasuade  me  from  proceeding.  I  believe  there  is  no  great  cordiality 
between  the  two.  The  Lama's  mediation  in  regard  to  the  peace 
was  procured  during  the  government  of  his  predecessor,  who,  upon 
his  expulsion  in  February  last,  fled  to  him,  and  is  now  in  his 
country.  The  present  chief  is  jealous  of  this,  as  well  as  apprehen- 
sive of  the  Nepal  Bajah  taking  him  by  the  hand,  and  would  be  glad 
if  the  Teshu  Lanut  would  give  him  up,  when  I  imagine  there  would 
be  little  scruple  of  throwing  him  into  the  Pachu-Ohinchu,  as  was 
done  with  a  chief  who  was  deposed  about  forty  or  fifiy  years  ago. 


Tassibiidon,  October  8, 1774. 

I  have  been  honoured  with  the  receipt  of  your  commands  of 
the  9th  August  by  the  merchant  from  Bangpur. 

Li  several  conversations  with  the  Deb  Bajah  and  his  officers  I 
represented  to  them  your  wish  to  extend  the  intercourse  between 


50  PROPOSALS  FOB  THE  EXTENSION  OF  TRADE.        [Ch.  V, 

Bengal  and  the  northern  nations,  and  the  adYantages  which  would 
thence  arise  to  this  state ;  that  Bhntan,  being  the  channel  of  com- 
mnnication,  wonld  natorally  share  in  the  benefits  of  an  extensiye 
commerce ;  that  on  your  part  yon  wonld  be  ready  to  afford  all 
enoonragement  and  protection  to  the  trade  from  this;  and  that 
a  mutual  intercourse  between  the  two  countries  would  serve  to 
strengthen  and  cement  that  amity  and  good  understanding  which 
is  now  happily  established.  In  answer,  I  received  assurances  of  the 
Bajah's  wish  to  cultivate  your  friendship ;  that  I  was  now  on  my 
way  to  the  Teshu  Lama,  and  that  on  my  return  he  would  listen 
favourably  to  any  proposal  from  you. 

^  From  the  information  I  have  been  able  to  gather  concerning 
the  trade  between  these  countries  and  Bengal,  I  am  led  to  think 
that  Teshu  Lama  will  be  more  disposed  to  promote  its  extension 
than  the  Deb  Bajah,  and  that  if  I  can  succeed  in  gaining  the 
former's  consent,  he  may  be  brought  to  exert  his  influence,  which 
is  very  considerable,  with  the  latter;  that  as  my  deputation  is 
immediately  to  the  Lama,  who  is  undoubtedly  the  religious  superior 
and  pretends  to  a  paramount  authority  also  in  the  temporal  affidrs 
of  this  state,  he  will  naturally  expect  that  he  should  be  considered 
as  the  principal  in  these  negotiations ;  and  the  present  unsettled 
state  of  this  ooimtry  is  abundantly  unfavourable  for  concluding 
them  here.  For  these  reasons  I  intend  to  try  my  success  at  the 
Lama's  court  before  I  push  the  Deb  Bajah  any  further. 

The  adherents  of  Deb  Judhur,  the  former  chie^  have  made  an 
insurrection  in  his  favour,  which,  although  at  present  not  formidable, 
occupies  folly  the  attention  of  the  Bajah  and  his  officers.  I  have 
therefore  taken  leave,  and  propose  to  continue  my  journey  north- 
wards to-morrow. 

I  have  been  solicited  here  to  request  that  you  would  be  pleased 
to  issue  your  order  that  the  annual  caravan  from  this  country  to 
Bangpur  may  meet  with  every  assistance  and  protection,  and 
have  free  liberty  to  trade  according  to  ancient  custom.  As  the 
peace  has  been  so  lately  concluded,  it  would  be  a  satis£Eu;tion  to  the 
Bajah  to  receive  your  '^arwana}  to  this  purpose  before  the  departure 
of  the  caravan. 

>  A  permit  or  custom-hoaae  pan. 


Ch.  v.]  the  caravan  to  BANGPlfR.  51 

TAe»isuix>N,  Ootolber  11,  1774. 

The  merchant  from  Bangpur  arrived  here  a  few  days  after  my 
address  of  the  18th.  I  hope  to  benefit  considerably  by  his  know- 
ledge of  the  language  and  commerce  of  these  countries. 

The  annual  caravan  from  this  to  Bangpiir  is  principally  an 
adventure  of  the  Deb  Bajah,  his  ministers,  and  provincial  governors. 
Each  of  them  sends  an  agent,  with  his  tanyans/  musk,  cowtails, 
coarse  red  blankets,  or  striped  woollen  cloth  half-yard  wide.  The 
other  Bhutanese  go  under  their  protection.  The  returns  from 
thence,  consisting  chiefly  of  broadcloth,  spices,  dyes,  Malda  cloths, 
go  almost  wholly  into  Teshu  Lama's  country  either  as  tribute  or  in 
trade.  In  the  last  case  they  are  converted  into  Pelong^  handker- 
chiefis,  flowered  satins,  tea,  salt,  wool,  &c. 

This  traffic  is  very  benefidal  to  the  Bajah  and  his  people,  and 
ihey  are  jealous  of  it.  One  can  show  them  the  advantages  their 
country  may  receive  &om  an  extension  of  commerce;  but  it  is 
more  difficult  to  make  their  own  interest  appear  in  it.  But 
Teshu  Lama,  I  believe,  has  no  such  warp.  His  territories,  being 
the  heart,  ought  to  benefit  by  a  large  circulation  of  trade  and  the 
resort  of  strangers ;  and  unless  his  dependence  upon  China  should 
stand  in  the  way,  I  would  fsdn  hope  for  some  success  with  him. 
As  to  what  you  were  pleased  to  propose  about  making  Tassisudon 
the  central  point  of  communication  with  Lhasa,  I  consider  it  only 
as  a  dernier  ressort^  and  as  my  way  is  now  open,  I  have  not  men- 
tioned it  until  I  can  see  what  is  to  be  done  otherwise. 

The  more  I  see  of  the  Bhutanese,  the  more  I  am  pleased  with 
them.  The  common  people  are  good-humoured,  downright,  and,  I 
think,  thoroughly  trusty.  The  statesmen  have  some  of  the  art 
which  belongs  to  their  profession.  They  are  the  best-built  race  of 
men  I  ever  saw ;  many  of  them  very  handsome,  with  complexions 
as  &ir  as  the  French.  I  have  sometimes  been  tempted  to  wish 
I  could  substitute  their  portrait  in  the  place  of  my  friend  Paima's. 

The  Deb  Bajah,  with  aU  his  court  and  the  inhabitants  of  the 
neighbouring  villages,  in  imitation,  I  suppose,  of  their  Scythian 
ancestors,  migrate  from  this  place  in  about  two  months  hence. 
Their  winter  quarters  are  at  Punakha,  two  days'  journey  to  the 

*  TaDgun  poniea    (Bee  note  at  p.  17.)  '  See  note  at  p.  16. 

£   2 


52  COLLECTION  OP  PLANTS  AND  SEEDS.  \Cb,  V. 

south-east,  and  the  climate  there  is  so  mnch  hotter  that  it  prodnoes 
mangos,  pine-apples,  Ac,  and  they  say  cassia.  The  palaoe,  I  am 
told,  is  larger  than  the  one  here,  and  well  finished.  I  am  to  see  it 
on  my  retnm. 

There  are  few  trees  in  this  part  of  the  country;  bnt  I  have 
abandance  of  promises  from  the  great  men  of  getting  me  seeds,  and 
have  employed  a  Bhntanese  on  purpose.  As  to  plants,  I  leave  them 
till  my  retnm,  when  the  sap  will  be  down,  except  a  slip  of  sweet 
brier  which  goes  by  this  opportunity.  There  are  plenty  of  cow- 
tailed  cows,  but  the  weather  is  too  hot  for  them  to  go  into  BengaL 
I  have  not  been  able  to  get  a  live  musk  goat,  but  have  sent  a  skin, 
likewise  a  sentimental  cup,  or  the  skull  of  a  Lama  guru. 

The  weather  is  growing  very  cold ;  the  thermometer  under  50^ 
in  the  mornings.  I  have  had  great  benefit  from  the  shawl  doth 
you  were  so  good  as  to  give  me.  Lama-Bimboche  has  now  pre- 
sented me  with  his  yeUow  satin  gown,  lined  with  lambskins,  and 
the  Deb  Bajah  with  about  a  dozen  of  blankets,  so  that  I  am  well 
fortified. 

I  took  the  liberty  of  recommending  the  Deb  Bajah's  desire  to 
have  your  panvana  for  the  caravan  proceeding  to  Bangpur,  and 
I  have  been  applied  to  here  by  the  Pare  Penlo^  that  his  agent  may 
go  to  Dinajpur,  according  to  ancient  custom.     I  am  aware  that 
some  of  the  Bhutanese  would  wish  to  proceed  farther,  and  even  to 
Calcutta.     The  late  war  has  enlarged  their  minds.    They  hope  to 
purchase  many  articles  of  trade  on  better  terms  there,  and  I  believe 
also  they  would  be  glad  to  get  some  firearms.    As  it  is  my  duty  to 
lay  before  you  whatever  occurs  to  me  on  the  business  upon  which  I 
am  deputed,  I  beg  leave  to  submit  to  you  that,  although  you  allow 
their  caravan  to  proceed  to  Bangpur  and  Dinajpur  as  formerly,  as  a 
proof  of  your  inclination  to  protect  their  trade,  that  any  new  con- 
cessions ought  to  be  on  stipulation ;  and  I  confess  the  privil^e  of 
sending  their  agents  into  the  interior  parts  of  Bengal  is  one  engine 
I  hope  to  avail  myself  of  with  some  advantage.    I  shall  have  need 
of  them  all  to  bring  me  to  a  point  in  which  their  own  particular 
interest  is  concerned. 

The  trade  between  Bangp^  and  Bhutan  may  extend  to  abont 
two  or  two  and  a  half  lakhs  a  year ;  that  through  Nepal  amoimtBy 

»  The  Governor  of  Wegtem  Bhutan. 


Ch.  v.]  ENOOURAQEMENT  of  trade.  58 

I  am  told,  to  three  or  four  times  that  siun.^  Sach  husbandmen  as 
join  the  caravan  for  Bangpur  pay  for  this  permission.  There  are 
two  or  three  houses  at  Bangpur  which  carry  on  a  trade  through  this 
country  to  Lhasa — ^the  merchant  who  has  joined  me  is  one  of  them. 
They  are  restricted  from  broadcloth  and  some  other  articles.  Their 
dealings  may  yearly  amount  to  about  a  kkh  of  the  above  sum. 


S. 

From  Wabbeh  HAsnxas  to  the  Bajah  of  Bhutan, 
DATED  28th  November,  1774. 

I  have  repeatedly  beard  from  Mr.  Bogle  the  news  of  your 
welfiure,  which  gave  me  the  greatest  pleasure.  That  gentleman 
also  informs  me  in  the  strongest  terms  of  gratitude  of  the  many 
kindnesses  and  civilities  you  have  shown  to  him.  This  also  calls  on 
me  for  my  acknowledgments,  as  I  consider  every  assistance  you 
have  given  to  Mr.  Bogle  as  an  obligation  conferred  on  myself. 
Accept,  therefore,  of  my  sincerest  thanks.  Agreeably  to  your  desire 
communicated  to  me  through  Mr.  Bogle,  I  enclose  you  a  parwana 
for  the  encouragement  of  any  of  your  subjects  who  may  wish  to 
travel  with  caravans  to  Bangp^  and  other  districts  under  the 
Company's  authority  for  the  purposes  of  trade.  It  is  my  earnest 
desire  that  the  friendship  between  you  and  the  Company  may  be 
strengthened  daily.  I  have  directed  Mr.  Bogle  to  settle  on  his 
return  such  articles  between  your  subjects  and  the  Company's  as 
may  be  most  agreeable  to  you  and  for  your  benefit  I  shall  write 
you  more  fully  on  all  these  subjects  by  the  return  of  the  caravan. 

I  send  you  a  piece  of  doth  as  a  token  of  friendship,  and  request 
that  you  will  frequently  make  me  happy  by  the  news  of  your 
welfare. 

Panoana  enclosed  in  the  foregoing. 

Notice  is  hereby  given  to  all  the  merchants  of  Bhutan,  that  the 
strictest  orders  have  been  issued  to  the  officers  at  Bangpur  and 

>  It  reached  a  total  of  33  lakhs  in  hands  of  Nevan,  Kashmms,  and  mer- 
1881,  according  to  Mr.  Hodgson's  re-  chants  of  Benares  and  Patna,  and  is  so 
port  to  Government.     It  was  in  the      stUl. 


64  BNOOURAGEMENT  OF  TRADE.  [Oh.  V. 

Ghoraghat  ^  dependent  on  the  Subah  of  Bengal  (the  paradise  of 
nations),  that  they  do  not  ohstrnct  the  passage  of  the  Bhutan 
merchants  to  those  places  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  their 
trade  as  formerly,  but  that  they  afford  every  assistance  to  their 
caravans.  They  are  therefore  required  not  to  entertain  the  least 
apprehension,  but  with  the  greatest  security  and  confidence  to 
come  into  Bengal  and  carry  on  their  traffic  as  formerly.  Placing 
an  entire  reliance  on  this,  let  them  act  agreeably  thereto. 


4. 

From  Warren  Hastinos  to  the  Bajah  of  Bhutak,  wmri'itN 

THE  6th  of  Januaby,  1775. 

I  have  received  your  letter  and  understand  the  contents.  It  is 
my  most  earnest  desire  to  increase  and  establish  the  friendship 
between  you  and  this  government  on  the  firmest  footing.  Nothing 
shall  be  wanting  on  my  part  to  promote  tHis  end.  I  am  particu- 
larly desirous  that  your  subjects  should  be  encouraged  to  come  into 
Bengal  for  the  purposes  of  trade,  in  consequence  of  which,  at 
Mr.  Bogle's  desire,  I  sent  you  a  pairwana  for  their  encourage- 
ment. I  have  lately  heard,  from  report  only,  that  some  obstruc- 
tions have  been  made  to  the  trade  in  cotton  between  your  subjects 
and  those  of  this  government,  in  consequence  of  which  I  have 
written  the  strongest  injunctions  to  have  them  removed :  by  this 
you  will  be  convinced  of  my  desire  to  promote  your  advantage  to 
the  utmost,  not  only  on  this  but  on  every  other  occasion.  With 
respect  to  the  accounts,  I  will  take  another  opportunity  of  writing  to 
you  concerning  them.  As  the  distance  between  us  is  so  great  that 
many  obstructions  to  the  trade  of  your  subjects,  and  causes  of  com- 
plaint may  arise,  of  which  I  may  be  wholly  ignorant,  and  as  I  wish 
to  prevent  any  such,  it  would  be  proper  that  a  vackil  should  reside 
here  on  your  part  to  deliver  your  letters  to  me,  and  to  lay  before 
me  any  representations  you  may  have  to  make  to  me. 

I  seud  you  a  pair  of  shawls,  as  a  token  of  friendship,  of  which 
I  beg  your  acceptance. 

^  Or  the  hone-ferry ;   a  town,  once      tributary  of  the  Tista,  in  the  Dinajpifr 
of  great  importance,  on  the  Knratia,  a      district  of  Bengal. 


Cu.  VI.J  THE  DUARS.  55 


CHAPTER  VI, 

SUGGESTIONS  RESPECTING  BHUTAN  AND  ASSAM. 

The  country  that  has  been  the  scene  of  our  military  operations  ^ 
against  the  Bhntanese  extends  over  a  distance,  as  troops  march,  of 
abont  85  miles.'  A  great  part  of  this  tract  consists  of  ahnost  im- 
penetrable jangles  and  immense  forests  of  sal  trees,  and,  taken  at 
the  rate  of  9  kos  from  the  mountains,  forms  that  strip  that  by 
the  treaty  is  ceded  to  the  Bhntanese.  This  country  is  intersected 
by  numerous  nullahs  and  small  rivers,  deep  and  rapid.  The  great 
rivers  are  the  Tista,  Manshi,  Tursa,  and  Baidak.  All  these  rivers, 
the  Tista  excepted,^  run  in  a  south-eastern  direction  into  the  Brah- 
maputra, and  are  navigable  for  six  months  of  the  year  as  high  as 
-within  10  kos  of  the  foot  of  the  mountains ;  but  their  not  com- 
municating with  the  Ganges  renders  the  fine  timber  on  their 
banks  but  of  little  value.  The  produce  of  this  strip,  where  culti- 
vated, consists  of  rice,  mustard  seed,  tobacco,  some  opium,  and 
about  40,000  maunds  of  fine  cotton  annually ;  to  the  eastward  it 
yields  some  black  pepper  and  munga  silk.^  The  country,  however, 
is  extremely  populous.  The  trade  carried  on  with  the  Bhntanese  is 
by  way  of  barter.  They  pay  little  or  no  revenue  to  the  Deb  Bajah, 
and  living  easy  under  his  government,  are  much  attached  to  the 
Bhutan  interest ;  and,  indeed,  from  the  nature  of  their  situation, 
ihey  can  never  be  independent  of  it. 

Our  troops  having  acted  in  this  tract^  of  country  was  the  reason 
of  their  having  suffered  so  much,  as  it  is  low  and  unhealthy  through 
the  whole  year.  The  water,  however,  is  in  general  very  good ;  but 
the  great  moisture  of  the  air,  and  the  great  and  sudden  changes  of 
the  weather,  occasion  the  frequency  of  intermittent  fevers  of  the 

'  Bee  note  at  p.  1.  in  Assam,  at  p.  112  of  Mr.  Geoghegan's 

«  The  Bengal  Dilars.  '  Report  on  Silk  in  India.* 

'    '  Bnt  see  Memoir  on  'Indian  Sur-  ^  The  tract  here  described  is  com- 

veys,'  p.  260.  prised  in  the  western  portion  of  the 

<  Anthera  Assama.      See  a  full  ac-  Bengal  Dilars. 
count  of  the  cultivation  of  munga  silk 


56  FUTURE  MILITARY  OPERATIONS  [Ch.  VL 

most  obstinate  kind.  It  is  to  be  remarked  that  the  Bhntanese  ^  are 
as  subject  to  them  as  our  troops,  and  never,  if  they  can  avoid  it, 
remain  in  the  low  country  during  the  rains. 

I  would  beg  leave  to  recommend,  should  there  ever  be  occasion 
again  to  employ  troops  against  the  Bhutanese,  a  different  mode  of 
carrying  on  the  service  to  that  which  was  followed.  Acting  on  the 
defensive  serves  only  to  protract  the  service,  and  from  the  number 
of  small  detachments  necessary  to  form  the  chain  of  posts  for  cover- 
ing so  extensive  a  frontier,  such  a  course  occasions  great  expense 
to  Government,  extreme  fiEttigue  to  the  troops,  and  gives  the  enemy 
every  advantage  they  could  wish,  especially  as  they  can  depend  on 
ample  supplies  from  the  country  between  their  poets  and  the  hilla, 
and  have  always  a  secure  retreat  in  them. 

For  these  reasons  acting  offensively  is  to  be  preferred.  There 
are  two  ways  in  which  this  may  be  done ;  either  by  penetrating 
into  their  country  at  once,  or  else  by  seizing  and  garrisoning  the 
passes  of  Ghichakotta,  Buxa-Diiar,  and  Bepu-Biiar;  for  though 
they  reckon  eighteen  passes,  these  are  the  principal  ones.  Three 
companies  would  be  sufficient  to  garrison  each  of  them,  and  a  flying 
detachment  of  five  companies  would  answer  the  purpose  of  supplying 
provisions  or  exchanging  the  garrisons  if  necessary.  The  passes  of 
the  Ghamurchi  and  Bepu-Diiars  are  the  most  practicable,  although 
that  of  the  Buxa-IHar  is  the  most  frequented,  owing  to  its  central 
situation,  and  being  opposite  to  Bulrampur  and  the  nearest  to 
Bangpur.  The  troops  should  be  ready  early  in  November  to  take 
possession  of  these  posts ;  and  I  am  firmly  of  opinion  the  Bhutanese 
would  submit  to  any  measures  we  should  think  proper  to  dictate  to 
them ;  but  in  case  they  proved  obstinate,  there  would  be  time  to 
follow  the  other  alternative,  by  entering  their  country  and  finishing 
the  expedition  before  the  rains  set  in.  If  there  were  two  complete 
battalions  employed  on  this  service,  I  think  it  would  be  best  to  act 
separately,  entering  the  two  passes  I  have  mentioned  above.  There 
would  be  no  occasion  for  troops  in  Bahar  whilst  they  were  in 
Bhutan,  as  they  would  draw  the  whole  force  and  attention  of  the 
Bhutanese.  The  Bhutanese  have  only  six  hundred  men  in  pay  as 
soldiers ;  but  though  their  government  is  elective,  they  hold  ttieir 

*  Hindi  Bhdt  makes  Bhotia,  equal  taner,  or  Bhutanese,  are  distinct,  and 
the  native  Bod  and  Bodpa,  for  onr  eqnal  the  native  Lho  and  Lhopa.  The 
Tibet  and  Tibetan.    Bhutan  and  Bhu-      two  should  not  be  confounded. 


Ch.  VI.]  AGAINST  BHUTAN.  57 

lands  by  military  service,  and  every  man  in  their  oonntry  is  a 
soldier  when  called  on.  In  short,  the  feudal  system  prevails 
amongst  them  in  its  fall  force.  One  cnstom  amongst  them  is 
remarkable,  and,  I  believe,  pecoliar  to  them.  When  they  rise  to 
any  post  of  hononr  and  tmst  in  their  country  they  are  separated 
from  their  famiUes,  and  never  after  permitted  to  hold  any  inters 
course  with  them,  lest  their  attachment  to  their  children  should 
induce  them  to  attempt  rendering  the  government  hereditary  in 
their  fiemiilies. 

Should  an  expedition  against  them  eyer  take  place,  eyerything 
necessary  should  be  provided  before  the  troops  enter  the  jungles, 
that  they  might  not  contract  those  diseases  incidental  to  that  climate, 
and  which  they  wovli  not  fail  to  do  if  they  remained  any  time 
in  it. 

The  greatest  difficulty  that  would  attend  an  expedition  of  this 
nature  would  be  the  carriage  of  provisions  and  ammunition. 
Twenty-five  or  thirty  days  is  as  little  as  they  could  think  of 
entering  the  hiUs  with,  and  from  the  nature  of  the  service  a  larger 
supply  of  ammrmitioii  would  be  required  than  the  eame  number  of 
troops  would  require  for  any  other  service.  If  guns  could  be  car- 
ried they  would  be  of  great  use.  This  would  be  difficult,  and  if  at 
all  done  must  be  by  elephants. 

But  supposing  all  the  success  that  could  be  expected  should 
attend  an  expedition  into  Bhutan,  I  can  see  no  great  advantage 
that  could  redound  from  it  to  the  Company  further  than  what  they 
now  enjoy — possession  of  Bahar  and  quiet  from  the  Bhutanese. 
The  trade  carried  on  is  scarce  an  object  to  the  Company ;  as  for 
keeping  possession. of  any  part  of  it  if  conquered,  or  forming  a 
settlement  there,  I  consider' it  as  impracticable  unless  done  with  the 
consent  of  the  Bhutanese,  which  I  belieye  vnll  never  be  obtained. 
Attempting  it  by  force  will  never  answer.  The  difficulties  are 
insurmountable,  at  least  without  a  force  and  expense  much  greater 
than  the  object  is  worth.  This  does  not  arise  from  the  power  of  the 
Bhutanese.  Two  battalions,  I  think,  would  reduce  their  country, 
but  two  brigades  would  not  keep  the  communication  open,  and  if 
that  is  cut  off  the  conquest  could  be  of  no  use.  In  all  the  schemes 
that  I  have  heard  of  for  an  expedition  to  Nepal  this  has  been 
overlooked,  on  a  supposition  that  if  a  conquest  was  effected,  all  the 
rest  would  follow,  of  coarse ;  but  that,  I  am  convinced,  would  not 


58  TBADE  THROUGH  AB8AM.  [Ch.  YI. 

be  the  case,  and  when  the  natural  strength  of  the  country  is  con- 
sidered this  will  appear  still  more  forcibly.  For  those  reasons  I  am 
no  advocate  for  an  expedition  into  these  conntries  nnless  the 
people  should  commence  hostilities,  and  then  it  should  be  done 
only  with  a  yiew  to  reduce  them  to  peace  on  such  terms  as  should 
appear  honourable  and  advantageous  to  the  Company;  and  this 
would  be  easily  effected  by  acting  vigorously  for  one  season. 

The  objections  I  have  made  against  an  expedition  into  Bhutan 
hold'  good  with  respect  to  Nepal  and  Lhasa,  for  this  sole  reason, 
that  a  communication  cannot  be  kept  open ;  and  should  our  troops 
march  into  these  countries,  they  must  consider  all  communication 
with  the  low  country  out  of  the  question  till  they  return. 

With  regard  to  our  treaty  with  the  Bhutanese,  I  am  of  opinion 
they  will  adhere  firmly  to  it,  as  they  are,  I  believe,  folly  convinced 
of  their  inability  to  carry  on  a  war  against  the  Company;  and 
I  am  of  opinion  the  battalions  in  Bahar  may  be  withdrawn  if 
wanted  for  other  service,  because  while  the  Bhutanese  continue 
quiet  they  are  not  wanted.  Should  they  recommence  hostilities,  our 
battalions  would  not  be  sufficient  to  reduce  them.  It  would  not, 
however,  be  amiss  to  keep  two  subalterns  with  two  companies  in 
Bahar  fort  for  another  season,  when,  if  the  Bhutanese  strictly 
observe  the  treaty,  they  may  be  recalled. 

An  open  trade  with  Bhutan,  Nepal,  and  Lhasa  has  been  con- 
sidered as  an  object  worthy  the  attention  of  Government,  but  the 
jealousy  of  the  nation  prevents  this  being  obtained  on  pacific 
terms,^  and  the  natural  strength  and  situation  of  these  countries 
render  it  extremely  difficult,  if  not  impracticable,  to  do  it  by  force. 
An  open  and  unrestrained  trade  and  intercourse  with  Assam,  con- 
sidered separately,  is  an  object  of  much  greater  consequence ;  but 
when  it  is  known  that  it  will  include  all  the  advantages  attending 
the  other,  it  must  of  course  become  a  much  more  desirable  object. 
The  Bhutanese,  the  inhabitants  of  the  Oorkha  Bajah's  country,  the 
natives  of  Lhasa,  and  of  many  other  countries  lying  north-west  of 
the  Brahmaputra,  carry  on  a  constant  trade  to  Assam.  A  settlement 
formed  on  the  banks  of  the  Brahmaputra,  near  the  capital,  would 
become  the  mart  for  supplying  all  the  countries  lying  north-west  of 

^  By  anna  and  diplomacy  we  strove      foiled  by  the  malaria,  and,  ainoe  the 
to  uphold  the  old  trade  with  Nepal      conquest,  by  the  jealousy  adverted  ta 
prior  to  the  Gorkha  conquest,  but  were 


Ch.  YI.]  ASSAM.  59 

the  Brahmaputra  as  well  as  those  cotrntries  to  the  eastward  of  that 
riyer;  it  would  open  an  ample  field  for  commerce  in  general^ 
and,  considering  its  northern'  situation,  would  greatly  increase 
the  demand  for  European  commodities,  and  particularly  for  broad- 
cloths. Assam  produces  numerous  and  valuable  articles  for  exporta- 
tion ;  the  jealousy  of  the  goremment  has,  however,  restricted  the 
trade  in  such  a  manner  that  it  is  of  Uttle  advantage  to  Bengal,  the 
whole  amount  not  exceeding  six  or  seven  lakhs  per  annum,  and  this 
mostly  by  way  of  barter ;  and  when  a  4>£Llance  arises  we  pay  it  in 
silver.  By  this  means  the  trade  is  rather  disadvantageous  to  the 
countries  under  the  government  of  the  Company,  especially  as  most 
of  what  we  receive  of  them  is  for  home  consumption.  The  natives 
of  Assam  are  permitted  to  trade  in  the  Company's  territories 
without  let  or  molestation;  the  same  liberty  may  therefore  be 
demanded  in  return  from  their  government,  and,  if  refused,  insisted 
on  with  justice.  Their  jealousy  of  foreigners,  however,  would  pro- 
bably induce  them  either  to  refuse  or  evade  this  request ;  but  it 
might  be  easily  enforced,  without  the  risk  of  failure  that  would 
attend  the  hill  expeditions. 

Assam  itself  is  an  open  country  of  great  extent,  and  by  all 
accounts  well  cultivated  and  inhabited ;  the  road,  into  it  either  by 
land  or  the  Brahmaputra  lies  open.  The  communication  can 
always  be  preserved.  The  advantages  of  a  river  navigable  the 
whole  year,  whether  considered  with  regard  to  commerce  or  war, 
are  obvious,  as  the  great  objection  against  entering  Nepal,  &c., 
arises  from  the  difficulty  of  keeping  open  the  communications ;  so, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  easy  access  to  Assam,  whether  by  land  or 
water,  invites  us  to  the  attempt.^  The  distance  of  a  settlement 
near  the  capital  would  not  be  more,  or  but  very  little  more,  from 
the  Presidency  than  it  is  from  there  to  Patna ;  the  trade  would  be 
carried  on  entirely  by  water,  and  as  the  banks  of  the  Brahmaputra 
are  covered  with  fine  timber,  all  the  boats  and  vessels  necessary 
far  carrying  on  the  trade  might  be  built  on  the  spot,  by  what 
I  learnt  from  the  people  who  had  been  permitted  to  trade  to 
that  country.  The  river  known  to  us  by  the  name  of  Brahma- 
putra is  but  a  branch  of  that  great  river.     It  divides  above  the 

^  In  Mr.  Hodgson's  report  stress  is  the  tea  cultivation  in  and  around 
laid  on  the  advantages  of  the  Assam  Assam  gives  additional  weight  to  all 
roates  into  Tibet ;  and  the  success  of      that  is  urged  in  that  report. 


60  PBOPOSAL  BE8PE0TING  ASSAM.  [Cb.  VL 

capital  of  Aflsanu  The  body  of  the  riyer  rnns  in  an  eastern  diieo- 
tion;  and  it  is  said  the  banks  of  it  are  well  fnmished  with  teak  timber 
of  great  size.  This  wonld  prove  highly  advantageous,  whether  for 
importation,  building  of  yessels  either  for  trade  or  for  pursuing 
our  discoveries  down  that  great  river ;  and  if  pursued  would  open 
a  trade  and  intercourse  with  countries  unexplored  by  Europeans. 
I  think  there  is  little  reason  to  apprehend  a  fieulure  if  the  attempt 
is  made,  for  should  unforeseen  difficulties  arise  with  regard  to 
supply  of  provisions  on  our  first  entering  the  country,  this  might 
easily  be  remedied  by  drawing  them  from  Bengal  for  a  short 
time;  and  I  have  not  a  doubt  but  our  troops  would  meet  with 
ample  supplies  after  they  had  once  passed  the  frontiers  of  Assam. 
The  stores  necessary  for  the  expedition  would  be  conveyed  by 
water,  and  the  boats  so  employed  would  be  sufficient  to  procure  any 
provisions  that  might  be  wanted  on  our  setting  out.  Assam,  as  I 
have  already  observed,  yields  many  valuable  articles  for  exportation. 
Oold  is  a  considerable  article  of  inland  trade ;  Bhutan,  Lhasa,  and 
Nepal  supply  them  both  with  gold  and  silver,  and  when  the 
restrictions  against  exportation  are  taken  off,  it  must  give  the 
balance  of  trade  greatly  in  our  fstvour.^  Supposing  it  should  not 
turn  out  so  great  an  object  as  I  have  represented,  still  it  cannot 
with  reason  be  doubted  that  it  would  more  than  reimburse  the 
Company,  by  the  advantageous  terms  they  would  be  glad  to  give  us 
in  point  of  trade,  setting  all  acquisition  of  territory  out  of  the  ques- 
tion ;  and  I  make  no  d(^bt  but  that,  a  few  months  after  our  entering 
Assam,  the  troops  might  be  paid  and  provisioned  without  making 
any  demands  on  the  Company's  treasury.  It  may  be  objected  that  a 
great  part  of  what  I  have  advanced  is  unsupported  by  proo& ;  but 
it  ought  to  be  remembered  that  in  all  the  valuable  dis(X>verie8  and 
acquisitions  that  have  been  made  these  have  always  at  first  been 
wanting.  We  have,  however,  the  reports  of  those  that  have  visited 
that  country,  and  that  is  more  than  is  usual  in  cases  of  this  nature. 
Probable  conjecture  has  been  found  sufficient  to  stimulate  enterpria- 
ing  spirits,  and  success  has  generally  justified  their  undertakings  of 
this  kind  when  conducted  with  spirit,  resolution,  and  prudence. 

*  There  were  large  receipts  of  gold  Benident,  directed  him  to  report  to  the 

from  Tibet  through  Nepal  up  to  the  Oovemment  the  causes  of  the  oesAtion 

Gorkha  conquest  of  Nepal.    The  lost  of  the  import  of  gold  from  Tibet, 
order  received  by  lir.    HodgeoDi  as 


Ch.  VII.]  THE  JOUBNEY  TO  TIBET.  61 


CHAPTER  VIL 

THE  JOUBNEY  TO  TIBET. 

1. 

From  Tasbisudon  to  Pabi-jong. 

While  I  was  at  Taasisndon  an  insnrrection  broke  out  in  fSayonr  of 
Deb  Jndhnr/  the  fonner  chief ;  and  the  distnrbanoeB  which  this 
oocaaioned  protracted  my  gtay.  The  malcontents,  after  a  fruitless 
attempt  on  the  palace  of  Tassisadon,  seized  Simptoka,  a  castle  in 
its  neighbourhood,  in  which  they  found  arms  and  ammunition. 

There  are  no  cannon  in  this  country.  The  castles  are  built  on 
eminences,  with  lofty  and  thick  walls  which  haye  loopholes ;  the 
windows  are  high,  project  out,. and  are  provided  with  heaps  of 
stones  to  throw  upon  assailants.  The  doors  are  strong  and  secured 
by  bars  of  iron ;  the  entrance  to  some  of  them  is  by  a  covered 
way,  defended  by  towers ;  and  they  want  but  the  mote  and  the 
bridge  to  resemble  the  Gbthic  castles  of  our  ancestors.  There  are 
only  two  ways  of  reducing  them — by  fire  or  by  famine.  The  first 
appears  easy  enough,  for  as  there  are  no  arches,  the  roofii  and  floors 
are  all  of  wood.  But  Bimptoka  having  been  built  by  Deb  Seklu,  a 
yery  popular  Bajah,  and  being  fuU  of  ftimiture  and  effects  belong- 
ing to  the  government,  it  was  resolved  to  blockade  it.  Troops 
were  accordingly  collected  from  the  distant  provinces,  and  three  of 
the  roads  were  stopped  up.  The  fourth,  however,  was  still  open. 
The  Deb  Bajah's  force  increased  every  day.  Deb  Judhur's  party 
saw  no  prospect  of  assistance ;  and  after  a  siege  of  ten  days  they 
abandoned  Bimptoka,  and  bemg  &voured  by  moonlight,  escaped 
oyer  the  mountains  into  Teshu  Lama's  country. 

I  left  Taasisudon  on  the  13th  of  October,  1774,  the  day  of 
their  retreat,  in  company  with  Mr.  Hamilton;  Mirza  Settar,  a 
native  of  Kashmir,  who  had  joined  me  from  Bangptir,  and  spoke 

>  See  anie^  p.  87. 


62  SOLDIERS  IN  BHUTAN.  [Ch.  VII. 

the  language  of  this  country ;  the  Tibetan  Paima,  a  messenger 
of  Teshu  Lama,  who  had  been  sent  for  me ;  and  a  servant  of  the 
Deb  Bajah,  who  was  to  attend  me  to  the  borders  of  his  country. 

Our  way  was  by  Binjipu,  commonly  called  Paro-gaund.^  The 
direct  road  is  over  the  mountains,  and  we  were  to  have  trayelled 
over  it,  escorted  by  a  guard.  This,  howeyer,  was  now  unneces- 
sary, and  we  took  the  low  road  along  the  banks  of  the  Ghinchu. 
It  was  the  same  by  which  we  had  come  from  Buxa-Duar.  We 
passed  Simptoka,  and  came  up  with  a  party  of  the  Deb  Bajah's  men. 
They  halted  at  a  Uttle  village,  and  their  leader  sent  for  us.  Ho  had 
formerly  been  Kalling,^  or  secretary,  to  the  Deb  Bajah,  and  had 
been  lately  promoted  to  the  office  of  Donnai,^  or  Head  Dewan.  He 
enjoys  the  first  place  in  the  chief  s  favour,  and  his  sagacity  and 
superior  abilities  entitle  him  to  it.  In  anything  that  relates  to  the 
government  of  his  own  country,  he  might  be  pitted  against 
many  a  politic  minister.  As  a  philosopher,  he  would  twist  him 
round  his  finger.  Of  a  truth,  an  ounce  of  mother-wit  is  Vorth  a 
pound  of  clergy. 

The  Donnai  was  sitting  on  the  ground  surrounded  by  his  men. 
He  gave  me  part  of  his  carpet.  We  had  a  dram  of  whisky.  He  told 
me  of  the  escape  of  the  insurgents  from  Simptoka ;  that  he  was  in 
pursuit  of  them  by  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  while  another 
detachment  had  taken  the  upper  road.  As  soon  as  we  left  him,  I 
saw  a  village  on  the  top  of  the  mountam  in  flames:  it  was  a  punish- 
ment for  its  attachment  to  the  Deb  Judhur. 

A  soldier  in  Bhutan  has  not  a  distinct  profession.  Every  man 
is  girt  with  a  sword,  and  trained  to  the  use  of  the  bow.  The  hall 
of  every  pubUc  officer  is  hung  round  with  matchlocks,  with  swords 
and  shields.  In  times  of  war  or  danger,  his  servants  and  retainers 
are  armed  with  these ;  the  inhabitants,  assembled  from  the  different 
villages,  are  put  under  his  command,  and  he  marches  in  person 
against  the  enemy.  The  common  weapons  are  a  broadsword  of  a 
good  temper,  vnth  shagreen  handle ;  a  cane-coiled  target,  painted 

*  Faro.    Turner  also  giyes  the  names  *  Aocording  to  Eden  (p.  li2X  the 

of  Parogong,  and  Biujipo^  p.  177.  Donnai  Zimpen  is  the  Dewan ;  Pern- 

'  The  Joom  Hailing,  in  Eden's  List  berton  has  Donnay  Zimpe.    He  holds 

(p.  113),  is  the  chief  judge.     Pern-  the  second  seat  in  the  Council, 
berton  calls  him  Hailing  Zimpe  (p  54). 
Turner  has  GuUum. 


Ch.  VII.]  LUMBOLONG.  63 

with  sizeaks  of  red ;  a  bow  formed  of  a  piece  of  bamboo ;  a  qniyer 
of  a  jtink  of  the  same  tree,  the  arrows  of  reeds,  barbed,  and  often 
oovered  with  a  poison  said  to  be  so  sabtile  that  the  slightest  womid 
becomes  mortal  in  a  few  hours.  Some  few  are  armed  with  a  pike. 
They  put  great  confidence  in  firearms ;  but  are  not  so  cunning  in 
the  use  of  the  matchlock,  as  of  their  ancient  weapons,  the  sword  and 
the  bow.  Their  warlike  garb  is  various  and  not  uniform.  Bome 
wear  a  cap  quilted,  or  of  cane  and  sugar-loaf  shape,  with  a  tuft  of 
horse-hair  stained ;  others,  an  iron-netted  hood,  or  a  helmet  with 
the  like  ornament;  under  these  they  often  put  false  locks  to  supply 
the  want  of  their  own  hair,  which  among  this  tribe  of  Bhutaneee  is 
worn  short.  Sometimes  a  coat  of  mail  is  to  be  seen.  In  peace  as 
well  as  in  war,  they  are  dressed  in  short  trousers,  like  the  Highland 
phikbeg ;  woollen  hose,  soled  with  leather  and  gartered  under  the 
knee ;  a  jacket  or  tunic,  and  over  all  two  or  three  striped  blankets. 
Their  leaders  only  are  on  horseback,  and  are  coyered  with  a  cap, 
rough  with  red-dyed  cowtails.  They  sleep  in  the  open  air,  and  keep 
themselves  warm  with  their  plaids  and  their  whisky.  When  they 
go  to  war  or  to  an  engagement,  they  whoop  and  howl,  to  encourage 
each  other  and  intimidate  the  enemy.  They  are  fond  of  attacking 
in  the  night  time.  As  to  their  courage  in  battle,  those  can  best 
speak  who  have  tried  it.     I  saw  only  some  skirmishes. 

We  arrived  at  Lumbolong  towards  night,  the  14th  of  October. 
Our  room  waa  like  a  large  warehouse,  supported  by  posts.  A 
fire  was  lighted  upon  a  stone  in  the  middle,  and  as  there  are 
no  vents,  we  suffered  as  much  from  its  smoke  as  we  benefited 
by  its  heat.  For  want  of  a  more  polite  entertainment,  I  sent 
for  some  women  who  had  come  with  the  baggage,  and  had  a 
Bhutan  song.  There  is  no  giving  a  description  of  it ;  and  as  I 
know  nothing  of  music,  I  could  not  take  it  down.  It  is  more 
like  church  chimes  than  anything  else.  Some  of  the  notes  are 
lengthened  out  as  long  as  the  breath  will  last,  and  people  used  to 
climbing  mountains  are  &r  from  being  short-winded.  A  battle 
with  fists  between  our  guide  and  the  landlord — the  second  I  have 
seen  here.      What  a  contentious  place  is  Lumbolong ! 

We  left  it  the  next  morning,  and  continued  to  descend  the 
Ghinchu,  till  it  is  joined  by  the  Pachu,^  near  Paku.     Here  we 

1  The  Parchoo  of  Eden,  p.  91. 


64  THE  HABVEST  AT  ES8ANA.  [Ch.  VII. 

crossed  it,  and  entered  the  narrow  valley  tlirongh  which  this  last 
nms  rapidly.  The  mountains  along  which  we  passed  are  bare  and 
rocky,  and  there  are  no  houses  to  be  seen  except  the  dweUings  of 
some  fiakirs.  On  the  opposite  side  is  a  village,  and  some  wheat 
fields. 

A  heavy  shower  of  snow  had  &llen  two  days  before  we  left 
Tassisndon,  and  the  tope  of  all  the  mountains  were  white  with  it.  The 
Bengalis,  when  they  got  np  in  the  morning,  were  much  surprised  at 
the  sight  of  it.  They  inquired  of  the  Bhntanese^  who  told  them  it 
was  white  cloths^  which  Qod  Almighty  sent  down  to  cover  the 
mountains  and  keep  them  warm.  This  solution  required,  to  be 
sure,  some  futh ;  but  it  was'  to  them  just  as  probable  as  that  it 
was  rain,  or  that  they  were  afterwards  to  meet  vnth  water  hard  as 
glass,  and  be  able  to  walk  across  a  river.  When  different  dimes 
exhibit  such  incredible  phenomena  to  the  inhabitants  of  other 
countries,  why  should  not  the  accounts  of  travellers  be  treated  with 
indulgence,  and  even  the  adventures  of  Sinbad  the  Sailor  be  read 
with  some  grains  of  allowance? 

We  arrived  at  Essana  after  midday  on  the  15th  of  October. 
This  is  a  village  situated  in  a  small  but  fruitful  valley.  Every- 
body was  busy  with  the  harvest.  As  soon  as  a  field  of  rice  is 
ripe  the  water  is  drained  off,  and  the  stream  that  suppUed  it 
diverted  into  a  different  channel  It  is  then  cut  down  vrith 
teethless  sickles,  and  is  either  placed  against  the  narrow  ridges 
which  surround  the  fields  and  separate  tiiem  from  each  other^  or 
it  is  laid  fiat  upon  the  stubble-ground.  In  a  few  days  it  is  built 
up  in  little  ricks,  regularly,  but  vTithout  being  bound.  From 
these  it  is  taken  down ;  a  beam  is  raised  breast  high,  and  sup- 
ported upon  two  posts;  under  it  a  large  mat  is  spread,  and  the 
men  and  women,  leaning  upon  it,  tread  out  the  rice  with  their  feet 
A  different  method  is  used  vdth  the  wheat,  which  is  bearded.  It 
is  tied  up  in  small  sheaves.  In  some  places  (Kepta)  they  separate 
the  grain  firom  the  straw  by  burning  it ;  in  others  (Tassisudon) 
they  thrash  it  out  vnth  flails.  The  wheat  is  reaped  in  the 
beginning  of  June. 

In  all  these  different  occupations  of  husbandry  the  heavy 
burden  lies  upon  the  fair  sex:  they  have  a  hard  lot  of  it. 
Besides  all  this,  the  economy  of  the  family  MIb  to  their  share. 
They  have  to  dress  the  victuals  and  feed  the  swine.    They  are  not 


Ch.  VII.J  PARO.  65 

much  troubled  indeed  with  washing  or  scrubbing :  the  fashion  of 
the  country  renders  this  quite  unnecessary.  But  not  unfrequently 
one  sees  them  with  a  child  at  the  breast,  staggering  np  a  hill  with 
a  heavy  load,  or  knocking  com,  a  labour  scarcely  less  arduous. 
And  with  all  this  bitter  dmnght  they  appear  to  hare  few  of  those 
sweetenings  which  might  render  it  more  palatable.  They  have 
none  of  the  markets,  &m,  churches,  and  weddings  of  England ; 
they  have  none  of  the  skipping  and  dancing  of  France ;  they  haye 
none  of  the  devotion  of  the  lower  people  in  other  Soman  Catholic 
countries ;  they  have  none  of  the  baUiings,  bracelets,  &c.,  of  the 
Bengali ;  and  yet  I  know  not  how  it  comes  to  pass,  but  they  seem 
to  bear  it  all  without  murmuring;  and,  having  nothing  else  to 
deck  themselves  with,  they  plait  their  hair  with  garlands  of  leaves 
or  twigs  of  trees.  The  resources  of  a  light  heart  and  a  sound 
constitution  are  infinite. 

Proceeding  up  the  Pachu,  we  arrived  at  Binjipu,  the  capital  of 
the  province,  on  the  16th  of  October.  I  was  lodged  in  a  long  hall 
adjoining  the  temple.  The  palace  is  a  miniature  of  Tassisudon. 
The  valley  is  large,  well  cultivated,  and  filled  with  detached  villages. 
In  one  of  these  there  is  a  bazaar,  the  only  one  I  believe  in  the 
country,  and  two  Kashmiri  houses;  but  there  is  no  calling  it  a 
town. 

The  government  of  Paro-gaund  is  the  most  important  under 
the  Deb  Bajah.  The  person  who  now  holds  it  is  a  cousin  of  Lama- 
Bimboch^,  who,  upon  the  late  revolution,  laid  aside  the  habit  of  a 
£etkir,  which  he  bad  assumed  under  the  former  administration,  and 
returned  to  worldly  affairs.  His  jurisdiction  is  very  extensive. 
Besides, the  districts  firom  which  he  takes  his  title  of  Paro  Penlo, 
the  governments  of  Dalim-kotta,  Lukhi-Buar,  Chamurchi-Duar, 
and  all  the  districts  towards  the  Murungs^  are  under  him.  He 
has  the  power  of  life  and  death  in  his  hands.  He  repairs  ouce  a 
year  to  Tassisudon,  and  pays  a  fixed  annual  revenue  to  the  Deb 
Bajah;  but  delivers  in  no  account  of  his  administration.  He 
retains,  however,  his  office  only  during  pleasure,  and  a  mandate 
from  the  presence  reduces  him  to  the  level  of  other  subjects. 

The  revenue  of  Paro-gaund,  as  well  as  of  most  of  the  interior 

'  The  Murungs  are   forests  at  the      paleee  name  for  the  Terai. — '  Hooker's 
foot  of  the  Sikkim  and  Nepal  moun-      Himnlnyan  Journal/  i.  p.  378. 
tains.    This  is,  in  fact,  the  local  Ne- 

P 


66  THE  VALLEY  OF  THE  PACHU.        [Ch.  VII. 

districts,  is  paid  chiefly  in  grain,  horses,  blankets,  &c.,  and  the 
money  comes  principally  from  Lnkhi-Dnar,  Boxa-Dnar,  and  other 
Dnars  or  outlets  into  the  low  conntry.  Bnt  I  must  not  here 
pretend  to  give  particulars. 

I  was  waked  in  the  morning  with  the  firing  of  guns  and  the  war 
whoop.  I  thought  we  had  not  yet  done  with  onr  fighting ;  but  it 
turned  out  to  be  only  the  head  of  a  rebel,  which  they  weje 
carrying  into  the  palace  in  procession,  with  a  white  handkerdiief  as 
a  flag  before  it. 

I  stayed  two  or  three  days  at  Paro-gaund ;  visited  the  Penlo ; 
received  a  reinforcement  of  blankets  from  him,  and  continued  my 
journey  on  the  19th  October.   I  also  received  a  visit  from  the  DonnaL 

We  were  obliged  to  make  short  journeys  on  account  of  the 
coolies.  We  stopped  at  Duko-jong  ^  on  the  night  of  the  20th, 
and  were  lodged  in  the  castle,  romantically  enough  situated  on 
the  top  of  a  mount.  Under  most  of  the  windows  are  hives  of  bees 
in  the  open  air.    They  have  cold  quarters  of  it 

Our  next  stage  was  Chanon,^  which  we  reached  on  the  2l8t. 
It  consists  of  four  or  five  houses  on  the  banks  of  the  Pachu, 
surrounded  with  turnip  fields,  for  which  alone  it  is  famous. 

The  road  from  Tassisudon  had  been  pretty  level;  we  could 
ride  most  part  of  the  way.  Our  next  stage  was  extremely 
steep ;  keeping  close  to  the  Pachu,  which  dashes  over  rocks,  wet 
with  its  spray.  One  place  was  very  picturesque.  High  perpen- 
dicular rocks  were  overhead.  The  Pachu,  now  reduced  to  a  large 
stream,  running  rapidly  by :  on  the  other  side  a  high  round  moun- 
tain, covered  with  silver  firs  and  pines,  intermixed  with  other 
trees,  red,  yellow,  and  all  those  colours  with  which  a  natural  wood 
is  variegated  towards  the  close  of  autumn.  The  summits  of  the 
hills  were  white  with  snow.  When  we  got  up  to  the  highest  part 
of  the  road,  we  found  the  sides  of  the  mountains  entirely  bare, 
owing,  I  suppose,  to  their  being  exposed  to  the  north  wind.  We 
met  a  flock  of  sheep,  the  first  we  had  seen ;  ^  small,  with  good  wool 

*  Apparently   the    Dukka-jung   of         '  Tibetan  sheep.    They  are  as  nu- 
Tumer,  p.  182 ;    and  Dakya-jnng  of      merons  and  fine  in  Tibet  as  they  aie 


Eden,  p.  91.    In  the  Bhutan  map  of      rare  and  poor  in  Himalaya  or  the 
1874  it  IB  Domgit  Zong.  Cis-niyean  oountries. 

*  The  last  Bhutan  yillage  on  this 
road.    Turner  calls  it  Sana,  p.  184. 


ch.  vn.] 


PARWONG. 


e? 


We  met  also  droves  of  oow-tailed  cattle ;  they  are  used  as  beasts  of 
burden,  and  were  then  carrying  skins,  with  the  wool  upon  them,  to 
Paro-gannd,  where  the  coarse  blankets  are  mostly  mannJGsustnred. 
They  were  €klmost  all  black,  very  rough,  uncouth  make,  a  large  hump, 
short  legs,  and  the  large  bushy  tail  for  which  they  are  noted.^ 

There  are  no  inhabitants  at  Ghdssar,'  a  place  we  arriyed  at 
on  the  22nd  of  October.  There  is  only  a  low  house,  like  a  stable 
without  doors.  We  were  obUged  to  bring  our  pioyisions  and 
fael  from  the  last  stage.  We  required  it  all  to  keep  us  warm. 
The  hills  all  about  were  covered  with  snow;  and  to  mend  the 
matter,  a  heavy  shower  of  it  came  on  in  the  night  time. 

This  was  all  frozen  in  the  morning,  and  most  of  our  road 
to  Pari-jong  was  covered  with  snow.  When  we  got  down  the  hill 
to  the  Pachu,  we  found  the  stones  and  bridges  hanging  with  icicles. 
There  were  no  houses  to  be  seen,  and  only  some  herds  of  cattle 
feeding  on  the  sides  of  the  valley,  which  was  bounded  on  the  north- 
west by  a  hill  between  two  moderate  mountains.  On  reaching 
the  top  we  found  six  heaps  of  stones  with  banners.  They  serve 
to  mark  the  boundary  between  the  Deb  Bajah's  country  and  that  of 
the  Lama,  which  now  lay  before  us ;  plain  and  open  to  the  north ; 
hilly  to  the  west ;  behind,  to  the  east  and  south,  mountains.  I 
arrived  at  Pari-jong  on  October  28. 

I  found  the  Bhutanese,  who  was  down  in  Calcutta,  waiting  for 
me.  I  have  dismissed  the  Deb  Bajah's  servant,  and  am  to  proceed 
towards  Shigatz6  in  a  day  or  two. 


2. 
From  Pari-jong^  to  Dbshbbipqay. 

The  first  object  that  strikes  you,  as  you  go  down  the  hill  into 
Tibet,  is  a  mount  in  the  middle  of  the  plain.     It  is  where  the 

'  Turner  has  GkMsa,  p.  193. 

•  Turner  calls  it  Phari  orParidsong. 
On  the  Bhutan  Map  of  1865  it  is  spelt 
Phak-rhi  or  Phari,  and  is  placed  at  the 
head  of  the  Ghunibi  Valley,  between 
Sikkim  and  Bhutan.  Klaproth  has 
Phari-dzoung  (Phari). 


*  See  Turner's  account  of  the  yak, 
p.  186.  See  also  *  Hooker's  Himalayan 
Journal,'  i.  pp.  212-214.  The  engrav- 
ing given  by  Turner  is  from  a  painting 
by  Stubbs,  the  famous  animal  painter, 
formerly  in  the  possession  of  Warren 
Hastings.  This  picture  is  now  in  the 
Museum  of  the  College  of  Surgeons. 


F  2 


68  PABI-JONG.  [Oh.  VII. 

people  of  Pari-jong  expoee  their  dead.  It  happened,  I  hope  not 
ominously,  that  they  were  carrying  a  hody  thither  as  we  came  down. 
Eagles,  hawks,  ravens,  and  other  camiyorons  birds  were  soaring 
about  in  expectation  of  their  prey.  Every  village  has  a  place  set 
apart  for  tins  purpose.  There  are  only  two  exceptions  to  it.  The 
Lamas  are  burnt  with  sandal-wood,  and  such  as  die  of  the  smaUpox 
are  buried,  to  smother  the  infection ;  so  that  three  of  the  five  kinds 
of  fonerals  (and  I  know  no  moie)  which  the  inhabitants  of  this 
world  use  are  known  to  the  people  of  Tibet. 

As  we  advanced  a  Uttle  farther,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  castle 
of  Pari-jong,  which  cuts  a  good  figure  from  without  It  rises  into 
several  towers  with  the  balconies,  and  having  few  windows,  has 
the  look  of  strength ;  it  is  surrounded  by  the  town.  The  houses 
are  of  two  low  stories,  flat-roofed,  covered  with  bundles  of  straw, 
and  so  huddled  together  that  one  may  chance  to  overlook  them. 
There  is  Uttle  to  be  said  for  them.  The  ceilings  are  so  low,  that  I 
have  more  than  once  been  indebted  to  the  thickness  of  my  skull; 
and  the  beams  being  very  short,  are  supported  by  a  number  of 
posts,  which  are  httle  &vourable  to  chamber-walking.  In  the 
middle  of  the  roof  is  a  hole  to  let  out  the  smoke,  which,  however, 
departs  not  without  making  the  whole  room  as  black  as  a  chimney. 
This  opening  serves  also  to  let  in  the  tight;  the  doors  are  full  c( 
holes  and  crevices,  through  which  the  women  and  children  keep 
peeping.  I  used  to  give  them  sugar-candy,  and  sometimes  ribbons ; 
but  I  brought  all  the  children  of  the  parish  upon  my  back  by  it. 
The  straw  upon  the  top  keeps  the  house  warm.  The  same  style  of 
architecture  prevails  in  the  villages  upon  the  road.  It  has  a  mean 
look  after  the  lofty  buildings  in  the  Deb  Bajah's  country;  bul 
having  neither  wood  nor  arches,  how  can  they  help  it  ? 

There  is  no  walking  out  after  it  is  dark,  on  account  of  the 
number  of  dogs  which  are  then  let  loose;  they  are  of  the  shepherd 
breed,  the  same  kind  with  those  called  Nepal  dogs,  large  size,  often 
shagged  tike  a  tion,  and  extremely  fierce.^ 

The  two  Lhasa  officers  who  have  the  government  of  Pari-jong 
sent  me  some  butter,  tea,  &c.,  the  day  after  my  arrival;  and,  letting 
me  know  that  they  expected  a  visit  from  me,  I  went.  The  inside  of 
the  castle  did  not  answer  the  notion  I  had  formed  of  it.     The  stairs 

*  The  Tibetan  maatiff,  a  noble  animal. 


Ch.  Vn.]  SET  OUT  FBOM  PARI-JONG.  69 

are  ladders  worn  to  the  bone,  and  the  rooms  are  httle  better  than 
garrets.  The  governor  was  dressed  in  a  msset  coloured  tunic  of 
coarse  woollen,  and  a  linen  doth  folded  and  laid  upon  his  bare  head. 
The  other,  who  I  understand  is  a  sort  of  judge,  was  clad  in  coarse 
black  cloth.  They  were  seated  beside  one  another  upon  carpets. 
The  etiquette  is  much  the  same  as  with  the  Dewans  at  Tassisudon. 

Four  score  of  Deb  Judhur's  people  had  taken  refuge  in  this 
fort.  The  Deb  Bajah  sent  to  demand  them,  but  they  were  not 
given  up.  The  conversation  which  passed  on  that  occasion  was,  I 
am  told,  as  full  of  the  principles  of  government  and  the  law  of 
nations,  as  if  it  had  been  conducted  by  G-rotius  and  Puffendorf. 

Pari-jong  stands  in  a  confined  plain,  entirely  surrounded  by 
hills  and  mountains,  except  to  the  north-east,  which  allows  that 
rufSan  wind  free  entrance.  It  is  on  every  account  abundantly 
bleak,  and  bare  and  uncomfortable. 

My  friend  Paima  was  considered  here  as  a  great  man,  and  all 
Teshu  Lama's  vassals  endeavoured  by  their  presents  and  attention 
to  secure  his  interest  at  court.  His  lev^  were  crowded  with 
suitors;  and  the  night  before  our  departure  he  invited  all  his 
friends,  and  gave  them  a  grand  entertainment.  I  knew  nothing 
of  this,  and  sent  for  him  to  play  a  game  at  chess.  My  servant 
found  him  dressed  out  in  the  governor's  khilat,  seated  under  a 
piece  of  green  sUk  for  a  canopy,  surrounded  by  all  the  peasants  and 
peasants'  wives,  singing,  dancing,  and  drinking,  and  as  great  as  a 
prince. 

It  was,  therefore,  the  morning  of  October  27,  1774,  before  we 
set  out.  Our  party  was  now  considerably  increased  by  the  accession  \ 

of  Paima  and  six  other  of  Teshu  Lama's  servants.  Everybody  was 
mounted  on  horseback;  the  horses  being  all  geldings,  low  sized, 
and  quiet,  hardy,  ill-dressed,  unshod.  Having  got  clear  of  all  the 
dogs  and  of  all  the  beggars  at  Pari-jong,  we  journeyed  slowly  over 
the  plain. 

One  of  Paima's  servants  carried  a  branch  of  a  tree  with  a  white 
handkerchief  tied  to  it.  Imagining  it  to  be  a  mark  of  respect  to  me 
and  my  embassy,  I  set  myself  upright  in  my  saddle ;  but  I  was 
soon  undeceived,  for  after  stopping  at  a  tent  to  drink  tea  with  the 
abbot  of  a  monastery  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Pari-jong,  subject  to 
Teshu  Lama,  we  rode  over  the  plain  till  we  came  to  a  heap  of  stones 


70 


CHUMALHABI  PEAK. 


[Oh.  Vn. 


opposite  to  a  high  rock  ooyered  with  snow.  Here  we  halted,  and 
the  seryants  gathering  together  a  parcel  of  dried  oow-dung,  one  of 
them  struck  fire  with  his  tinder-hox,  and  lighted  it.  We  sat  down 
about  it,  and  the  day  being  cold,  I  found  it  yery  comfortable. 
When  the  fire  was  well  kindled,  Paima  took  out  a  book  of  prayers; 
one  brought  a  copper  cup,  another  filled  it  with  a  kind  of  fermented 
liquor  out  of  a  new-killed  sheep's  paunch,  mixing  in  some  rice  and 
flour,  and  after  throwing  some  dried  herbs  and  flour  into  the 
flame,  they  began  their  rites.  Paima  acted  as  chapkin.  He 
chanted  the  prayers  in  a  loud  yoice,  the  others  accompanying  him, 
and  eyery  now  and  then  the  little  cup  was  emptied  towards  the 
rock.  About  eight  or  ten  of  these  libations  being  poured  forth, 
the  ceremony  was  finished  by  placing  upon  the  heap  of  stones  the 
little  ensign,  which  my  fond  imagination  had  before  ofiiared  up  to 
my  own  yanity.  The  mountain  to  which  this  sacrifice  was  made 
is  named  Ghumalhari.^  It  stands  between  Tibet  and  Bhutan, 
and  is  generally  white  with  snow.  It  rises  almost  perpendicular 
like  a  wall,  and  is  attended  with  a  string  of  smaller  rocks,  which 
obtain  the  name  of  Ghumalhari's  sons  and  daughters. 

As  the  water  of  the  Ghmges,  or  of  some  refreshing  brook,  is 
considered  holy  among  the  sunnscorched  Hindus,  so  rocks  and 
mountains  are  the  objects  of  yeneration  among  the  Lama's  yotaries. 
They  erect  written  standards  upon  the  tops  of  them,  they  coyer 
the  sides  of  them  with  prayers  formed  of  pebbles,  in  characters  so 
large  '^  that  those  that  run  may  read,"  and  like  the  Jews  of  old, 
when  they  went  a  whoring  after  strange  gods  of  the  heathen,  they 
get  themselyes  up  into  high  places. 

The  plain  oyer  which  we  had  to  ride  is  coyered  with  grayelly 
sand.  It  produced  nothing  but  some  tufts  of  withered  grass,  which 
afiEbrded  a  scanty  subsistence  to  the  herds  of  cattle.  The  sides  of 
the  hills  to  the  westward  are  perfectly  bare ;  they  appear  like  rocks 
oyer  which  the  sand  and  stones  had  been  heaped,  leaying  here  and 


1  Turner  has  Ohumnlaree,  p.  208. 
This  lofty  peak  is  23,944  feet  above  the 
sea.  Ghmnalhari,  with  many  (  other 
Himalayan  peaks,  was  included  in  the 
triangulatlon  of  tiie  North-East  Hima- 
layan series,  which  was  completed, 
under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  Andrew 
Waugh,  in  1850.     On  the  Surveyor- 


General's  Bhutan  Map  of  1865,  it  ia 
spelt  GhumalaBhi.  Chumalh»-rime«iiB 
holy  mountain  of  Ghuma ;  and  Chama 
may  be  Chu  (water),  ma  (mother>, 
*'Holy  Mountain  of  the  Mother  of 
Waters."  (See  note  at  p.  166  of 
*  Hooker's  Himalayan  Journal,'  vol.  iL) 


Ch.  VIL]  lake  op  SHAM-GHU  PBLLING.  71 

there  the  sharp  points  jutting  out ;  heyond  these  yon  see  the  high 
mountains  in  the  Demo  Jong^  country,  among  which,  I  imagine,  is 
the  snowy  hill  seen  from  Dinajpur  '  and  other  plains  in  Bengal.  For 
seyeral  days  the  country  hore  the  same  bleak  and  barren  aspect, 
answering  to  Churchill's^  description : 

**  Far  as  the  eye  can  reach  no  tree  is  seen, 
Earth  dad  in  mawt  Bcoms  the  lively  green.** 

The  plain  cause  of  this  poverty  of  soil  is  that  God  Almighty  has  so 
ordered  it ;  but  a  much  more  ingenious  reason  may  be  drawn  firom 
the  following  circumstances. 

The  coldness  of  the  climate  renders  fuel  a  yery  essential  article, 
and  as  no  wood  is  to  be  had,  the  Tibetans  are  obliged  to  use  cow- 
dung,  which  is  carefully  gathered  from  the  fields.  This  is  built  up 
in  a  circular  form,  or  put  into  a  pot  with  a  hole  in  the  bottom. 
It  makes  a  cheerfal  and  ardent  fire  when  well  kindled,  and  the 
people  are  abundantly  skilful  in  the  art  of  managmg  it,  which  my 
own  ill  success  has  often  shown  me  to  be  a  very  difficult  science. 

We  arrived  at  Tunno,^  our  next  stage,  about  three  o'clock. 
Some  of  my  servants  who  walked  were  so  tired  that  they  were 
brought  home  on  peasants'  backs,  as  I  had  not  been  able  to  find  horses 
for  them  all.  I  next  day  got  cow-tailed  bullocks,  but  the  Hindus 
would  not  ride  on  them,  because  if  any  accident  should  happen  to 
the  beast  while  they  were  on  him,  they  would  be  obliged,  they  said, 
according  to  the  tenets  of  the  Shaster,  to  beg  their  bread  during 
twelve  years,  as  an  expiation  for  the  crime.  Memo, — Inconvenient 
carrying  Hindu  servants  into  foreign  parts. 

Our  road  next  day  (October  28)  led  us  along  the  banks  of 
the  lake  called  Sham-chu  Felling.^    It  is  fed  by  a  large  mineral 

'  Demo-jong  (or  Damoo-jnng)  is  the  at  Westminster.     The  poets  Gowper, 

Tibetan  name  for  Sikldm.  (See  Gutzlair,  Gnmberland,  Churchill,  Oolman,  and 

'  China  Opened,'  i.  p.  273.)     Henoe  Thornton,    Lord     Shelbume    (Prime 

Deunjong  Maro  for  Sikkimites.    Bat  Minister),  Warren  Hastings,  and  Elijah 

their  own  proper  name  is  Bong.    The  Impey,  were  all  at  Westminster   to- 

Gorkhas,  and  we  after  them,  call  thein  gether.    Churohil)  died  in  1764,  at  the 

Lepchas.  early  age  of  thirty-three.     See  also 

*  This  will  be  the  peak  of  Eangchan  note  at  p.  95. 

jennga    (Kang    clian,    abounding   in  *  Turner  has  Teuna,  14  miles  from 

anow),  28,156  feet  above  the  sea.  Phari,  p.  207. 

'  Charles    ChurchiU,  the  poet  and  <  Bamtchieu  of  Turner,  p.  211.    Chu 

flatirist,   was  an  old    schoolfellow  of  means  a  lake. 
Warren  Hastings,  Mr.  Bogle's  patron, 


72  GAME  LAWS  IN  TIBET.  [Cb.  YII. 

stxeam,  which  iasaes  out  of  the  side  of  a  mountain,  and  ext^ds 
ahont  eighteen  miles  from  the  north  to  sonth.  It  was  half  frozen 
oyer,  and  well  stocked  with  wild  ducks  and  geese.  We  also  met 
with  some  hares,  and  a  flock  of  antelopes/  besides  a  herd  of  will 
animals  called  kyangs/  resembling  an  ass,  and  which  I  shall  after- 
wards have  occasion  to  describe  more  particularly. 

We  should  have  had  excellent  sport,  but  for  my  friend  Paima's 
scruples.  He  strongly  opposed  our  shooting,  insisting  that  it  was  a 
great  crime,  would  giye  much  scandal  to  the  inhabitants,  and  was 
particularly  unlawful  within  the  liberties  of  GhunudharL  We 
had  many  long  debates  upon  the  subject,  which  were  supported  on 
his  side  by  plain  commonnaense  reasons  drawn  from  his  religion 
and  customs;  on  mine,  by  those  fine-spun  European  arguments, 
which  senre  rather  to  perplex  than  convince.  I  gained  nothing 
by  them,  and  at  length  we  compromised  the  matter.  I  engaged 
not  to  shoot  till  we  were  fidrly  out  of  sight  of  the  holy  mountain, 
and  Paima  agreed  to  suspend  the  authority  of  the  game  laws,  in 
solitary  and  sequestered  places.^ 

The  religion  of  the  Lamas  is  somehow  connected  with  that  of 
the  Hindus,  though  I  will  not  pretend  to  say  how.  Many  of  their 
deities  are  the  same ;  the  Shaster  is  translated  into  their  language, 
and  they  hold  in  yeneration  the  holy  places  of  Hindustan.  In  short, 
if  the  religion  of  Tibet  is  not  the  offspring  of  the  Qentoos,^  it  is  at 
least  influenced  by  them.  The  humane  maxims  of  the  Hindu  fiEdth 
are  taught  in  Tibet.  To  depriye  any  living  creature  of  life  is 
regarded  as  a  crime,  and  one  of  the  vows  taken  by  the  clergy  is  to 
that  effect.  But  mankind  in  every  part  of  the  world  too  easQy 
accommodate  their  consciences  to  their  passions,  and  the  Tibetans 
find  no  di£Sculty  in  yielding  obedience  to  this  doctrine.  They 
employ  a  low  and  wicked  class  of  people  to  kill  their  cattie,  and 
thus  evade  the  commandment.  The  severe  prohibition  of  the 
Hindus  in  regard  to  eating  beef  is  likewise  easily  got  over.    The 

*  Probably  the  Ohiru,  or  Antelope  rivers,  and  we  had  good  shootiog  when 
ffodgsoni  of  Abel.  Hue  calls  it  the  we  were  away  from  any  house.  I  killed 
nnioom  of  Scripture.  three  wild  geese  at  one  shot.    Bbt  I 

*  Eqnns  (asinus)  Kyang,  the  .wild  was  afraid  of  giving  offence,  and.  ao 
ass  of  Tibet.  gave  it  up."    (See  paper  cm  the  migra- 

*  In  a  letter  to  his  family,  Mr.  Bogle  lion  of  the  wading  and  swimming  birdg 
says :    **  There  were  plenty  of   wild  in  '  B.  A.  S.  Journal.*) 

ducks  and  geese  in  the   lakes   and  *  See  note  at  p.  88. 


Ch.  VII.]  SHAM-GHU  AND  CALO-OHU  LAKES.  73 

COWS  of  Tibet  are  mostly  of  the  bushy-tailed  kind,  and  haying 
therefore  set  them  down  as  animals  of  a  species  different  from  the 
oow  of  the  8haster,  they  '^  eat,  asking  no  questions  for  conscience' 
sake."  The  general  principle  by  which  they  determine  the  degree 
of  culpability  in  depriving  an  animal  of  life  is  yeryingenions.  Accord- 
ing to  the  doctrine  of  tnmsmigration,  there  is  a  perpetual  fluctuation 
of  life  among  the  different  animals  of  this  world,  and  the  spirit  which 
now  animates  a  man  may  pass  after  his  death  into  a  fly  or  an  elephant. 
They  reckon,  therefore,  the  life  of  eyery  creature  upon  an  equal 
footing,  and  to  take  it  away  is  considered  as  a  greater  or  smaUer 
crime,  in  proportion  to  the  benefit  which  thereby  accrues  to  man- 
kind. According  to  this  doctrine,  *^  the  ox  who  clothes  the  ground 
in  all  the  pomp  of  harvest,  the  sheep  who  lends  them  his  own  coat, 
and  yields  them  milk  in  luscious  streams,"  are  slaughtered  without 
mercy ;  while  the  partridge  and  wild  duck  enjoy  tiie  protection  of 
goyernment,  and  the  trout  liyes  secure  and  unmolested  to  a  goodly 
old  age.  The  musk  goat  ^  is  condemned,  on  account  of  its  perfume. 
The  deer ^  and  the  hare^  are  tried  on  a  double  charge,  and  suffer  for 
their  skin  as  weU  as  their  flesh.  But  I  am  following  out  disquisi- 
tions  foreign  from  my  journey. 

A  stream  of  water  falls  from  the  Sham-chu  into  the  Galo-chu 
Lake,  which  extends  about  ten  miles  east  and  west.  A  large  village, 
named  Galoashur,^  stands  upon  the  bank  of  it,  and  another  stream 
runs  from  it  northwards.  We  kept  close  to  this  stream  for  several 
days :  it  &Us  into  the  Tsanpu  Shigatz^,^  turning  many  mills  on  its 
way.  These  are  constructed  on  the  simplest  plan :  a  duct  is  cut  in  the 
same  manner  as  in  Europe ;  but  the  wheel,  instead  of  being  perpen- 
dicular, is  horizontal,  and  turns  the  upper  millstone,  which  is  fixed 
to  its  axle,  without  any  other  machinery.  There  are  also  several 
bridges  on  this  river,  but  very  different  from  the  wooden  ones  we 
met  with  among  the  mountains.  They  are  walls,  with  breaks  or 
openings  to  let  the  water  through,  which  are  covered  with  planks 
or  large  flags.   In  the  Deb  Bajah's  country  they  choose  the  narrowest 

^  The  muak  goat  is  Moschus  Motcifer  of  Turner,  a  village  placed  on  his  map 

Auct,  between  the  two  lakes.  Galo-chu  is  the 

'  The  Shou  of  the  Bhntanese.  Cervua  lake  of  Galo. 
Aginis  Hodg,  *  That  is  the  Tsanpu,  or  great  river, 

'  Lepw  Oiostolus  Hodg.  which  flows  past  Shigatze'. 

*  Galo  of  Bogle  is  probably  the  Chaloo 


74  A  HAPPY  FAMILY.  [Ca.  VIL 

part  of  the  riyer  to  throw  over  a  bridge:  here  they  take  the 
Inroadest. 

Onr  route  continned  ahnost  due  north  through  yalleys  little 
cnltiTated  and  bounded  by  bleak  and  barren  hills,  between  whose 
openings  we  saw  distant  mountains  covered  with  snow.  Here  and 
there  we  saw  a  few  houses,  with  some  spots  of  rushy  ground,  or  of 
brown  pasture,  but  not  a  tree  or  a  plant  was  to  be  seen,  and  the 
number  of  ruinous  houses  and  deserted  villages  rendered  the  prospect 
more  uncomfortable.  At  Eanmur^  a  few  willows  were  planted 
round  the  village.  We  were  lodged  in  the  temple  at  the  top  of  the 
house,  which  is  generally  the  best  apartment  Towards  evening  we 
had  a  visit  from  a  priest  who  resides  at  Oiansu,  on  the  part  of 
Teshu  Lama,  and  began  an  acquaintance  which  we  had  afterwards 
abundance  of  opportunity  to  improve.  He  was  dressed  in  a  lay 
habit,  consisting  of  a  red  broadcloth  tunic,  with  a  cap  turned  up 
with  furs.  He  sat  about  an  hour  with  us,  and  appUed  to  Hr. 
Hamilton  about  medicines. 

This  village  is  subject  to  Lhasa.  The  house  in  which  we 
lodged  had  lately  changed  its  inhabitants.  Of  fifteen  persons  who 
formerly  lived  in  it  every  one  had  died  last  year  of  the  small- 
pox. 

As  we  generally  set  out  by  sunrise,  we  arrived  early  at  our 
stages.  Dudukpai,  the  next  village,  which  belongs  to  Teshu  Lama, 
had  also  a  good  many  willows  about  it.  The  people  were  all  busy 
building  and  stacking  their  straw,  and  were  singing  at  their  work. 
Our  landlords'  fisanily  seemed  to  be  one  of  the  happiest  in  Tibet 
The  house  belongs  to  two  brothers,  who  are  married  to  a  very 
handsome  wife,^  and  have  three  of  the  prettiest  children  I  ever 
saw.  They  all  came  to  drink  tea  and  eat  sugar-<»uidy.  After  night 
came  on,  the  whole  &mily  assembled  in  a  room  to  dance  to  their  own 
singing,  and  spent  two  hours  in  this  manner  with  abundance  of 
mirth  and  glee.  I  would  stop  to  describe,  but  I  shall  have  an  op- 
portunity afterwards,  and  am  now  going  to  discuss  a  philoeophicsd 
and  much  more  important  subject 

'  Gangamaar  of  Turner,  p.  219.  than  one  is   seldom  at  home.     The 

'  Polyandry  is  common   in  Tibet.  effect  of  the  huge  number  of  persons 

(See   Tnmer,  p.  349.)     See .  Warren  bound  to  celibacy  and  the  poverty  of 

Hastings'  remarks,  at  p.  12.    Several  the  land,  rather  complicate  than  explain 

brothers  marry  one  woman,  but  more  this  custom.    (See  pp.  87  and  57.) 


Ch.  VIL]  position  of  women  in  TIBET.  75 

The  inhabitants  of  Tibet  seem  to  be  of  a  distinct  race  from  those 
in  the  Deb  Bajah's  country.  It  stmok  me  on  my  arriyal  at  Pari- 
jong,  and  eyery  day  s  journey  has  served  to  confirm  it.  The  latter 
were  the  most  robust  and  well-bnilt  race  I  ever  saw.  I  cannot  say 
so  much  for  the  former.  Their  strength,  too,  is  in  the  same  pro- 
portion ;  any  burden  with  which  the  one  will  dimb  the  steepest 
mountains,  must  be  diminished  folly  a  third  to  be  carried  by  the 
other  on  leyel  gronnd.  One  might  seek  for  the  cause  of  this  in 
the  difference  of  soil  and  climate.  I  will  endeayour  to  account 
for  it  on  another  principle,  because  it  may  throw  some  Ught  on  the 
way  of  life  among  each  people. 

Labour  certainly  renders  a  man  strong :  csfls^majpanbus,  a  black- 
smith or  a  carpenter  will  be  stronger  than  a  tailor  or  a  barber. 
I  haye  akeady  mentioned  the  toilsome  life  of  the  Deb  Bajah's  sub- 
jects. The  nature  of  this  country  exposes  its  inhabitants  to  no  such 
hardships.  The  hills,  although  in  many  places  abundantly  steep 
and  high,  are  so  bare  and  sterile  that  they  are  lefb  in  a  state 
of  nature.  The  yalleys  only  are  cultivated,  and  the  roads  lead 
through  them,  which  cuts  off  all  climbing  of  mountains.  Goods 
are  chiefly  carried  on  bullocks  and  asses ;  the  com  is  trod  out  by 
cattle,  and  ground  by  water-mills,  and  the  country  producing  no 
forests,  the  inhabitants  are  freed  from  the  hard  labour  of  hewing 
down  trees,  and  transporting  them  from  the  tops  of  mountains. 

But  however  this  easy  life  may  contribute  to  render  the  men 
less  robust,  it  has  evidently  a  very  fjAvourable  effect  upon  the  women, 
who  are  certainly  more  deUcate  and  joyous  than  their  neighbours  ; 
and  this  freedom  from  intense  labour  gives  likewise  to  the  whole 
body  of  the  people  more  time  for  gossiping  and  other  sociable 
amusements,  which  soften  the  heart  and  cheer  the  temper.  This 
also,  together  with  other  causes  which  it  is  needless  to  mention, 
renders  the  Tibetans  much  better  bred  and  more  afihble  than  their 
southern  neighbours,  and  the  women  are  treated  with  greater 
attention.  In  the  Deb  Bajah's  country,  whatever  a  countryman 
saves  from  his  labour  is  laid  out  in  adorning  his  sword  with  silver 
filigree  work,  or  buying  a  square  box  which  contains  a  little  gilt 
image,  and  is  buckled  to  his  back.  Here  it  is  bestowed  on  purchasing 
coral  and  amber  beads,  to  adorn  the  head  of  his  wife.  The  head- 
dress of  the  women  is  extremely  neat  and  becoming.      I  have 


76  GIAHSU.  [Ca  VH. 

elsewhere  described  it.  Bnt  the  dirtiness  of  their  hands  and  faces 
(many  of  which  deserve  a  better  fate)  is  a  point  which,  as  I  cannot 
attempt  to  excuse,  my  partiality  to  the  Tibetans  will  not  allow  me 
to  enlarge  upon. 

I  must  except,  however,  our  landlady,  who  kept  herself  and  her 
tBJDJlj  as  neat  as  a  Dutch  woman,  and,  saving  her  black  eyes,  she 
had  something  the  look  of  one. 

The  first  part  of  our  ride  next  day,  the  2nd  of  November,  was 
through  the  same  bleak  country  we  had  hitherto  met  with ;  but  the 
valley  in  which  Giansu^  stands  is  extensive,  well  cultivated,  and 
full  of  whitened  villages.  The  hills  on  each  side  draw  dose  towards 
the  north;  between  them  rises  a  high  and  almost  perpendicular 
rock,  upon  the  top  of  which  stands  Giansu  Castle.  It  is  formed 
of  many  walls  and  turrets.  The  tower  is  built  at  the  foot  of  the 
rock  on  the  east  side;  on  the  west,  it  is  washed  by  the  river, 
beyond  which  a  monastery  and  village  are  built  on  the  declivity  of 
a  mountain.  Altogether  it  makes  a  fine  prospect. 

Towards  evening  we  arrived  at  our  quarters,  about  three  miles 
short  of  Giansu.^  They  belong  to  the  priest  who  paid  us  a  visit 
on  the  road.  The  house  is  surrounded  with  willows  and  other  trees. 
It  has  a  number  of  small  windows,  and  the  roof  is  adorned  with 
little  ensigns  and  written  banners.  We  were  lodged  in  the  temple, 
which  was  fuU  of  painted  chests,  matchlocks,  bows,  cushions,  and 
other  lumber.  One  comer  was  hung  with  mythological  paintings 
and  below  a  parcel  of  little  gilt  cross-legged  images,  with  a  lamp 
burning  before  them,  from  which,  as  all  the  family  are  gone  to  bed, 
I  have  taken  the  liberty  to  steal  some  oil  in  order  to  finish  this 
account,  hoping  that  it  will  not  be  imputed  to  me  as  a  sacrilege. 

This  evening  the  Gosain,  who  was  down  in  Calcutta,  arrived 
with  three  of  the  Lama's  servants.  Our  host  arrived  in  the  mom* 
ing.  He  had  applied  to  Mr.  Hamilton  about  an  inveterate  com- 
plaint, and  I  tarried  a  day  on  purpose.  He  is  an  elderly  man,  of 
gentle  and  modest  manners.  He  sat  with  me  most  of  the  afternoon, 
and  I  am  sure  I  drank  above  twenty  cups  of  tea.  As  I  had 
waited  upon  the  Lhasa  officers  at  Pari-jong,  I  offered  a  visit  to  those 

>  Jhansu-jeung  of  Turner.  Giangze  '  The    same     place    that    Tomer 

of  the  Pandit  of  1865 ;   12.895    feet  stopped  at,  which  he  calls  Tehukkn, 

above  the  sea.    Klaproth  has  Gialdz^  p.  225. 
dzonng. 


Ch.  VII.]  QIANSU.  77 

at  Giansn,  bnt  it  was  declined  on  the  pretence  of  one  of  them  being 
absent. 

On  onr  journey  next  day  we  passed  through  the  town  of 
Gainsu,  and  under  the  castle.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the 
houses  as  I  have  before  described  them.  Crowds  of  people  assem- 
bled to  look  at  ns.  These  exhibitions  were  very  irksome  at  first, 
but  I  have  grown  to  be  accustomed  to  them.  I  have  remarked 
that  we  are  much  more  stared  at  and  mn  after  in  towns  than  in 
Tillages,  and  in  villages  than  in  solitary  houses.  Curiosity,  perhaps, 
although  natural  to  mankind,  and  howeyer  the  seeds  of  it  may  be 
implanted  in  them,  requires,  like  music,  to  be  cultivated.  It  gathers 
strength  from  being  exercised ;  it  languishes  and  lies  asleep  when 
there  are  no  objects  to  engage  its  attention. 

We  met  with  no  more  ruinous  houses.  The  villages  came  now 
to  be  more  numerous ;  and  the  low  lands  in  the  valleys,  though 
light  and  sandy,  were  covered  with  barley  stubble.  We  arrived 
at  our  stage  in  good  time ;  and  having  nothing  else  to  fill  up  my 
paper  with,  will  beg  leave  to  give  a  description  of  a  Tibetan  chum. 
I  have  often  admired  the  construction  of  the  Bengal  ones.  I  think 
in  this  country,  howev^,  they  have  improved  on  them.  The 
barrel  which  contains  the  milk  is  put  on  the  ground ;  the  strap  has 
two  cross  boards  at  bottom.  It  is  put  into  the  barrel,  and  the  lid, 
with  a  hole  for  it  to  pass  through,  is  fastened  on ;  a  thong  of 
leather  is  then  put  twice  round  the  staff,  and  the  ends  being 
brought  over  a  small  roller  (which  is  supported  horizontally  by,  and 
turns  round  between,  two  posts)  are  tied  to  two  foot-boards,  one  end 
of  them  raised  about  six  or  eight  inches  from  the  ground,  the  other 
resting  upon  it.  On  this  a  man  stands,  and  moving  his  feet  alter- 
nately up  and  down,  twists  about  the  staff  in  the  chum  with  great 
velocity  and  much  satisfaction.  If  I  could  draw  I  would  give  a 
plan  of  it,  but  I  cannot. 

I  met  here  also  with  a  machine  for  cutting  straw  for  cattle,  but  it 
is  not  worthy  of  description.  As  I  remember  what  a  great  discovery 
the  cutting  of  straw  was  considered  in  England,  I  mention  it  only 
to  show  that  nations  undervalued  by  Europeans  can,  without  the 
assistance  of  Boyal  Societies,  find  out  the  usefiil  arts  of  life,  and  for 
the  rest,  whether  they  be  of  advantage  to  mankind  or  otherwise  is  a 
question  above  my  reach. 


78 


painAm. 


[Ch.  VII. 


We  proceeded  next  morning,  Noyember  5,  along  the  banks  of 
the  river,  now  considerably  increased.  We  saw  a  good  many 
villages  at  a  distance,  and  at  length  came  in  sight  of  Painam/  a 
castle  btzilt  on  a  rock.  The  situation  is  a  good  deal  similar  to  that 
of  G-iansn,  bnt  I  think  finer ;  the  towers  are  more  regular.  Under 
the  rook  there  is  only  a  village.  Deb  Jndhur  passed  the  night  in 
our  neighbourhood,  on  his  way  to  Qiansu,  where  he  was  afterwards 
confined. 

The  valley  to  the  north  of  Pain&m  was  by  far  the  most  populous 
I  had  yet  seen.  The  villages  stand  very  thick.  A  small  town  called 
Ghattong  is  built  on  the  side  of  one  of  the  hills,  and  the  houses 
being  all  whitened  make  a  good  appearance.  We  had  hitherto 
kept  in  the  road  towards  Shigatze,^  but  we  now  turned  to  the  east, 
and  took  that  of  Ghamnamring,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  which 
Teshu  Lama  has  for  some  years  resided,  on  account  of  the  small- 
pox which  lately  raged  in  Tibet.  After  passing  the  valley  we  had 
to  ascend  some  hills  by  a  difficult  and  stony  path,  then  to  descend, 
and  then  ascend  again,  after  which  we  had  a  view  of  the  Tsanpu, 
running  eastwards.  When  we  had  got  half-way  down  the  hill  we 
stopped  at  a  single  house,  where  we  took  up  our  quarters  for  the 
night. 

On  our  way  over  these  hills  we  met  with  a  flock  of  sheep,  which 
had  come  from  the  Dospa  country  (Tushkhind)^  with  a  cargo  of  salt, 
and  were  then  returning  from  Giansu,  loaded  with  barley  and  wheat 
They  were  of  a  large  breed,  with  horns  extended  horizontally.  There 
were  about  twelve  hundred  of  them,  and  each  sheep  carried  two 
bags  of  grain,  which  might  be  about  twenty  or  twenty-five  pounds. 
They  were  very  obedient  to  their  drivers'  whistles,  and  if  any  of 


'  Painom  of  Turner,  p.  229 ;  or  Pena 
Jong  of  the  Pnndit  of  1865.  Elaproth 
has  Banam  zonng,  or  the  "town  of 
cows."  The  river  is  called  Penanang, 
or  Painom. 

'  Here  the  routes  of  Bogle  and 
Tomer  diverged.  Bogle  crossed  the 
Tsanpu,  while  Turner  took  the  direct 
road  to  Teehn  Lnmho. 

^  The  Dospa  is  simply  the  "salt 
country."  2%«5,  (cfos)  heing  Turki  for 
salt,  and  (jmz)  coimtry. 

Tushkhind  has  the  same   sound  as 


Taishkhan  valley  mentioned  in  Wood's 
*  Ozus'(Tule'sed.,  p.l61),in  Badakshan ; 
the  stream  flowing  through  it  being  an 
effluent  of  the  Eokcha.  The  Toican 
of '  Ifaroo  Polo/  between  Kunduz  and 
Badakshan,  is  described  as  being  near 
the  mountains  of  salt.  (See  Golcmel 
Yule's  note  in  his  edition  of  *  Maroo 
Polo,'  i.  p.  146.)  In  his  Report  on  the 
trade  of  Nepal,  Mr.  Hodgson  says  that 
all  Nepal  is  supplied  with  rock-salt  by 
way  of  Tibet. 


Oh.  Vn.]  BANKS  OF  THE  TSANPU.  79 

them  happened  to  get  out  of  the  road  were  easily  brought  back  by 
the  shepherds'  dogs. 

There  are  a  great  many  mshy  fields  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  place  where  we  stopped.  Mr.  Hamilton  had  good  shots,  at 
fonr  hareSy  bat  his  fowling-piece  was  bent  and  he  missed  them. 

On  the  7th  of  Noyember,  after  descending  an  easy  hill,  we 
arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Tsanpn.  It  is  here  about  the  breadth 
of  the  Thames  at  Pntney.  The  channel  is  not  fordable.  Haying 
drank  some  of  its  water,  washed  my  hands  and  fajoe,  and  thrown 
a  mpee  into  it,  we  embarked  in  the  ferry-boat,  of  which  there  are 
seyeral  in  this  place.  They  are  in  the  shape  of  an  oblong  square, 
about  twenty-fiye  feet  long  and  broad.  The  bottom  is  a  float  of 
thick  planks,  closed  in  by  perpendicular  walls  to  the  height  of 
about  four  feet,  with  an  opening  on  each  side,  cut  down  to  about 
two  feet,  which  serves  for  the  entrance.  The  whole  is  bound 
together  with  bars  of  iron,  and  painted  white.  At  each  end  of 
the  boat  is  a  white  ensign  about  a  foot  square.  This  large  hulk 
is  moved  by  an  oar  on  each  side,  which  are  pulled  by  two  men, 
pushed  by  another  standing  opposite  to  them,  and  drawn  by  a 
woman,  who  holds  a  rope  fastened  to  the  end  of  the  oar  which  is 
in  the  water.  It  is  managed  at  the  stem  by  one  man  with  a  large 
headed  oar.  In  our  boat  there  were  twenty-three  persons,  seven 
horses,  one  oow-tailed  bullock,  and  fourteen  asses,  besides  baggage. 
As  the  river  is  iar  from  being  rapid,  we  crossed  it  without  losmg 
much  ground.  Large  herds  of  bullocks  and  flocks  of  sheep  were 
waiting  on  each  side  for  a  passage.  There  is  another  kind  of  boat 
used  in  the  summer  time  for  transporting  goods.  It  is  made  of 
hides,  about  eight  feet  long,  four  broad,  and  two  deep,  the  ribs  of 
willow  poles.  There  were  none  afloat,  but  we  saw  many  of  them 
upon  the  bank  keel  up,  and  one  end  being  raised  a  httle  they  thus 
serve  for  a  habitation. 

After  crossing  the  river,  we  rode  northwards  over  a  large  sandy 
bank,  which  is  overflowed  in  the  rainy  season,  and  entered  a  vaUey 
which  opens  upon  the  Tsanpu.  We  had  fine  sandy  roads  here, 
and  I  ran  some  races  with  Purungir.  The  Tibet  ponies  are  much 
swifter  and  better  blood  than  I  expected.  We  took  up  our  quarters 
at  a  monastery  in  a  small  village.  The  abbot  was  a  short,  sickly- 
looking  man,  but  courteous  and  hospitable.    His  dinner  was  just 


80 


GYLONGB. 


[Ch.  vn. 


ready,  and  he  sent  ns  a  oonple  of  joints  of  most  excellent 
mutton. 

In  the  afternoon  we  walked  ont,  and  sat  down  on  the  banks  of 
the  rivnlet  which  mns  through  the  valley,  and  while  we  were 
looking  at  some  dromedaries,  a  gylong^  or  priest  came  np  to  ns,  and 
sat  down  beside  ns.  The  few  words  of  the  langnage  whidi  I  was 
master  of  were  httle  able  to  snpport  a  varied  and  entertaining 
conversation.  I  understood,  however,  the  priest's  caution  against 
sitting  on  the  ground  and  in  the  sun..  He  was  dressed  in  the 
habit  peculiar  to  his  order,  which  I  have  already  described ;  but  it 
had  seen  many  years'  service,  and  was  now  threadbare.  He  had 
thrown  off  his  hose  to  wade  the  river,  when  our  snuff-box  attracted 
his  notice.  Upon  this,  he  loosened  a  wallet  which  hung  at  his  back, 
and  after  turning  over  some  books  of  prayers,  a  yellow  cloth  coat 
lined  with  lambskin,  a  small  parcel  of  tobacco,  and  another  of  tea, 
he  came  to  a  bundle  of  incense  papers,  and  having  presented  four  of 
them  to  Mr.  Hamilton,  claimed  some  snuff  in  return.  This  exchange 
being  made,  and  having  taken  leave  by  a  salutation  of  thumbs,  which 
is  the  sign  of  the  superlative  degree  of  comparison,  he  laid  his  bundle 
and  hose  upon  his  back,  and,  wading  the  river,  continued  his  journey. 

The  lower  gylongs  here  are  not  so  well  off  as  in  the  Deb 
Bajah's  country ;  they  are  a  much  more  numerous  body,  and  the 
lamas  having  engrossed  all  authority  into  their  own  hands,  the 
priests,  particularly  the  inferior  ones,  are  without  the  political  con- 
sequence enjoyed  by  the  clergy  in  the  neighbouring  kingdom. 

We  set  out  early  in  the  morning,  and  travelled  northwards 
along  the  banks  of  the  rivulet.'  We  passed  opposite  to  Teshu-tzay, 
where  the  Lama  received  his  birth,  and  at  length  came  in  sight  of 
Chamnamring,^  a  castle  belonging  to  Lhasa,  situated  upon  the  top 


'  GyloDg,  a  monk,  or  ordained  priest. 
Bohlagintweit  speUs  it  Gelong;  or, 
exactly  transliterated,  dGto-«long.  It  is 
equivalent  to  the  Hindustani  Bhikahu^ 
a  mendicant. 

*  The  young  Tibetan  explorer,  sent 
by  Colonel  Montgomerie,  in  1871,  from 
Kumaon,  crossed  the  Tsanpu  (Sangpo) 
at  about  the  same  plaoe,  and  ascended 
the  same  valley  as  that  traversed  by 
Mr.  Bogle,  along  the  banks  of  a  river, 
tributary  to  the  Tsanpu,  vhich  he  calls 
the  Shiang-chu.    He  mentions  villages 


in  this  valley  oaUed  Chua,  Dongdot-lo, 
and  Ghom.  At  the  latter  place  there 
is  a  nunnery. 

*  Namling  of  the  explorer  of  1871, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Shiang-ohu.  He 
describes  it  as  a  large  monastery  on  a 
high  hill.  The  name  is  from  Nam  (sky) 
and  Img  (garden),  the  monastery  being 
on  a  lofty  eminence,  with  gardens  at 
its  base.  Elaproth  has  Dgiang  amring 
dzoung,  which  he  interprets  as  "The 
town  to  the  north  of  the  mountains  of 
Amring." 


Ch.  Vn.]  ARRIVAL  AT  DBSHERIPGAY.  81 

of  a  hill,  with  a  small  town  under  it,  built  in  the  form  of  a  square, 
and  enclosed  within  walls.  Having  forded  the  river,  we  entered  a 
httle  cross  valley,  where  we  stopped  to  drink  tea  at  some  tents  pre- 
pared for  us,  and  having  received  white  handkerchiefs  from  a 
Gosain  sent  with  inquiries  by  Teshu  Lama,  we  proceeded  to 
Desheripgay,  a  small  palace  in  which  the  Lama  resided. 


a 


82  DESUEBIPGAT.  [Oh.  VHI. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

AT    DBSHERIPGAY. 

On  the  8th  of  NoYember»  1774,  we  rode  np  to  the  gate  of  the 
palace,  and  walking  into  the  court,  went  up  the  ladders  to  our 
apartments. 

Desheripgay^  is  situated  in  a  narrow  vallej,  and  at  the  foot  of  an 
abrupt  and  rocky  hill.  The  palace  is  small ;  it  is  only  two  stories 
high,  and  is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  rows  of  small  apartments 
with  a  wooden  gallery  running  round  them,  which  altogether  form 
a  small  court,  flagged  with  stone.  All  the  stairs  are  broad  ladders. 
The  roofs  are  adorned  with  copper-gilt  ornaments ;  and  on  the  firont 
of  the  house  there  are  three  round  brass  plates,  emblems  of  Om, 
Han,  Hoong.^  The  Lama's  apartment  is  at  the  top ;  it  is  small, 
and  hung  round  with  different  coloured  silks,  views  of  PotaUa,' 
Teshu  Lumbo,  &c.  About  two  miles  from  Desheripgay  is  the 
castle  of  Ghamnamring. 

Immediately  after  our  arrival,  the  Lama  sent  us  a  pot  of  ready- 
made  tea,  boiled  rice,  four  or  five  sacks  of  flour  and  of  rice,  three  or 
four  dried  sheep's  carcasses,  and  some  whisky.  I  had  also  compli- 
ments of  tea  from  several  of  his  officers,  and  many  visitors  whom 
curiosity  brought  to  see  me. 

My  room  was  small,  but  neatly  furnished ;  it  was  immediately 
above  the  church,  and  I  was  entertained  with  the  never-eeafflng 
noise  of  ^^  cymballines  and  timballines"  from  morning  to  night. 
But  as  soon  as  it  grows  dark  everything  is  still  as  death,  and  the 
gates  are  shut  about  an  hour  after  sunset.  The  night,  of  my  arrival 
they  were  kept  open  on  account  of  my  supper,  as  my  servants  were 

^  This  place  is  not  mentioned  by  the  (mind) ;  Dharma  (matter) ;  Scmgha  (the 

explorer  of  1871.  nnion  of  both  in  the  aenaible  world). 

*  This  IB  the  invocation  of  the  triad,  *  The  monastery  near   Lhaaa,  the 

common  to  Brahmaniam  and  Buddhiam.  residence  of  the  Dalai  Lama. 
But  with  the  latter  it  refers  to  Buddha 


Oh.  Vlir.]  INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  TE8HU  LAMA. 


83 


lodged  withont;  but  I  took  care  there  should  be  no  occasion  for 
this  afterwards. 

A  number  of  Eampas/  who  are  natiyes  of  a  country  about  a 
month's  journey  to  the  north-east  of  Lhasa,  came  to  pay  their 
deyotions  to  the  Lama.  They  were  clad  in  yellow  cloth  gowns, 
and  their  heads  shaven.  On  these  occasions  nobody  goes  empty- 
handed.  Some  of  them  carried  bundles  of  tea,  some  parcels  of  gold 
dust,  others  china,  and  silver  talents.  They  are  a  hard-featured  race, 
and  I  cannot  help  £B.ncying  they  have  some  of  the  Malay  featurea 

Li  the  afternoon,  I  had  my  first  audience  of  the  Lama.  I  have 
elsewhere  put  down  the  conversation  that  passed,  and  will  here  only 
mention  the  ceremonies. 

The  Lama  was  upon  his  throne,  formed  of  wood,  carved  and 
gilt,  with  some  cushions  above  it,  upon  which  he  sat  cross-legged. 
He  was  dressed  in  a  mitre-shaped  cap  of  yellow  broadcloth,  with 
long  bars  lined  with  red  satin;  a  yellow  cloth  jacket  without 
sleeves,  and  a  satin  mantle  of  the  same  colour  thrown  over  his 
shoulders.  On  one  side  of  him  stood  his  physician  with  a  bundle 
of  perfumed  sandal-wood  rods  burning  in  his  hand ;  on  the  other 
stood  his  Sopon  Chumho,^  or  cup-bearer.  I  laid  the  Governor's 
presents  before  him,  deUvering  the  letter  and  pearl  necklace  into 
his  own  hands,  together  with  a  white  Felong  ^  handkerchief  on  my 
own  part,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country.  He  received 
me  in  the  most  engaging  manner.  I  was  seated  on  a  high  stool 
covered  with  a  carpet.  Plates  of  boiled  mutton,  boiled  rice,  dried 
fruits,  sweetmeats,  sugar,  bundles  of  tea,  sheep's  carcasses  dried,  &c., 
were  set  before  me  and  my  companion,  Mr.  Hamilton.  The  Lama 
drank  two  or  three  dishes  of  tea  along  with  us,  but  without  saying 
any  grace ;  asked  us  once  or  twice  to  eat,  and  threw  white  Pelong 
handkerchief  over  our  necks  at  retiring.  After  two  or  three  visits, 
the  Lama  used  (except  on  holidays)  to  receive  me  without  any 


1  Kam  is  the  eastern  division  of 
Tibet,  bordering  on  the  Szechnen  pro- 
yiace  of  China.  But  the  people  re- 
ferred to  were  probably  of  Sokyeul  or 
Sifan,  for  whom  see  Hodgson  *  On  the 
Tribes  of  North  Tibet*'  pp.  65,  82. 

*  Tomer  has  Sopoon  Ghoomboo,  p. 
232.   He  held,  aooording  to  Turner,  the 


second  rank  in  the  court  of  the  Tesbu 
Lama,  was  by  birth  a  Manchu  Tatar, 
and  acquired  the  complete  oonfidenoe 
of  his  master.  Turner  speaks  very 
highly  of  him,  p.  246.  At  the  time  of 
Bogle's  visit  lie  was  not  more  than 
twenty-two  years  of  age. 
*  See  iiott»  at  p.  16. 

<i  2 


8t  CHARACTER  OF  THE  LAMA.  [Ch,  Vm. 

ceremony,  his  head  uncovered,  dressed  only  in  the  large  red  petti- 
coat which  is  worn  by  all  the  gylongs,  red  Bulgar  hide  boots,  a 
yellow  doth  vest,  with  his  arms  bare,  and  a  piece  of  coarse  yellow 
doth  thrown  across  his  shonlders.  He  sat  sometimes  in  a  chair, 
sometimes  on  a  bench  covered  with  tiger  skins,  and  nobody  bnt  the 
Sopon  Ohumbo  present.  Sometimes  he  wonld  walk  with  me  about 
the  room,  explain  to  me  the  pictures,  make  remarks  upon  the 
colour  of  my  eyes,  &c.  For,  although  venerated  as  G-od's  vice- 
gerent through  all  the  eastern  countries  of  Asia,  endowed  with  a 
portion  of  omniscience,  and  with  many  other  divine  attributes,  he 
throws  aside,  in  conversation,  all  the  awful  part  of  his  character, 
accommodates  himself  to  the  weakness  of  mortals,  endeavours  to 
make  himself  loved  rather  than  feared,  and  behaves  with  the 
greatest  affability  to  everybody,  particularly  to  strangers. 

Teshu  Lama  is  about  forty  years  of  age,  of  low  stature,  and 
though  not  corpulent,  rather  inclining  to  be  fat.  His  complexion 
is  fairer  than  that  of  most  of  the  Tibetans,  and  his  arms  are  as 
white  as  those  of  a  European ;  his  hair,  which  is  jet  black,  is  cut 
very  short ;  his  beard  and  whiskers  never  above  a  month  long ;  his 
eyes  are  small  and  black.  The  expression  of  his  countenance  ia 
smiUng  and  good-humoured.  His  &ther  was  a  Tibetan ;  his 
mother  a  near  relation  of  the  Bajahs  of  Ladak.  From  her  he 
learned  the  Hindustani  language,  of  which  he  has  a  moderate 
knowledge,  and  is  fond  of  speaking  it.  His  disposition  is  open, 
candid,  and  generous.  He  is  extremely  merry  and  entertaining  in 
conversation,  and  tells  a  pleasant  story  with  a  great  deal  of  humonr 
and  action.  I  endeavoured  to  find  out,  in  his  character,  those 
defects  which  are  inseparable  from  humanity,  but  he  is  so  uni- 
versally beloved  that  I  had  no  success,  and  not  a  man  could  find  in 
his  heart  to  speak  ill  of  him.^ 

Being  the  first  European  they  had  ever  seen,  I  had  crowds  of 
Tibetans  coming  to  look  at  me,  as  people  go  to  look  at  the  lions 
in  the  Tower.     My  room  was  always  full  of  them  fipom  morning 

^  Tamer  also  teUs  09  of  the  veuera-  derived  a  like  impieaBion  of  the  Dalai 

tion  in  which  the  memory  of  the  Teshu  Lama,  from  whom  he   obtained   the 

Lama  wae  held  in  his  time  (1783),  and  perfect  copy  of  the  Tibetan  cydopndia^ 

quotes  the  above  sentence  from  Mr.  now  deposited  in  the  India  Office*  mod 

Bogle's   Journal,    p.    338.     Through  also  the  relics  of  the  old  Christian  eeta- 

correspondence  with  him  Mr.  Hodgson  blishmeuts  in  Central  Asia. 


Ch.  Vin.]  GRAND  RECEPTION  BY  THE  LAMA.  85 

till  night.  The  Lama,  afraid  that  I  might  be  incommoded,  sent  me 
word,  if  I  chose,  not  to  admit  them ;  bat  when  I  conld  gratify  the 
cnriosity  of  others  at  so  easy  a  rate,  why  should  I  have  refused  it  ? 
I  always  received  them,  sometimes  exchanging  a  pinch  of  snnff,  at 
others  picking  np  a  word  or  two  of  the  kngnage. 

On  the  12th  of  November  a  vast  crowd  of  people  came  to 
pay  their  respects,  and  to  be  blessed  by  the  Lama.    He  was  seated 
under  a  canopy  in  the  court  of  the  palace.    They  were  all  ranged 
in  a  circle.    First  came  the  lay  folks.     Every  one,  according  to 
his  circumstances,  brought  some  offering.     One  gave  a  horse, 
another  a  cow;    some  gave   dried   sheep's   carcasses,  sacks   of 
flour,  pieces  of  doth,  &c. ;  and  those  who  had  nothing  else  pre* 
sented  a  white  Pelong  handkerchief.      All  these  offerings  were 
received  by  the  Lama's  Berronts,  who  put  a  bit  of  oik  with  a 
knot  upon  it,   tied,  or  supposed  to  be  tied,   with  the  Lama's 
own  hands,  about  the  necks  of  the  votaries.     After  this  they 
advanced  up  to  the  Lama,  who  sat  cross-legged  upon  a  throne 
formed  with  seven  cushions,  and  he  touched  their  heads  with  his 
hands,  or  with  a  tassel  hung  from  a  stick,  according  to  their  rank 
and  character.     The  ceremonial  is  this :  upon  the  gy longs  or  lay- 
men of  very  high  rank  he  lays  his  palm ;  the  nuns  (annt)  and 
inferior  laymen  have  a  cloth  interposed  between  his  hand  and  their 
heads ;  and  the  lower  class  of  people  are  touched,  as  they  pass  by, 
with  the  tassel  which  he  holds  in  his  hand.    I  have  often  admired  his 
dexterity  in  distingnishiBg  ttie  different  orders  of  people,  particularly 
in  knowing  the  young  priests  firom  the  nuns,  both  being  dressed  in  the 
same  habit,  and  it  sometimes  happening  that  they  were  crowded  and 
jumbled  together.    There  might  be  about  three  thousand  people — 
men,  women,  and  children — at    this    ceremony.     Such  as  had 
children   upon  their  backs  were  particularly  solicitous  that  the 
child's  head  should  also  be  touched  with  the  tassel.     There  were  a 
good  many  boys,  and  some  girls  devoted  to  the  monastic  order,  by 
having  a  lock  of  hair  on  the  crown  of  the  head  cropped  by  the 
Lama  with  a  knife.^    This  knife  came  down  from  heaven  in  a  flash 
of  lightning.'  The  age  at  which  these  children  are  thus  consecrated 

'  See  Piayrajya-vrata,  or  initiatory  '  In  other  words,  it  was  made  from 

rites,  p.  139  et  aeq,  of  Uodgson'ii  *  Lan-      meteoric  iron, 
guage  and  Beligion  of  Nepal  and  Tiliet.' 


86  DRIED  MEAT.    DANG  I IROUS  MEDICINE.         [Ch.  VIII. 

to  religion  and  chastity  is  nenially  about  seyen  or  eight  years.  After 
the  Lama  retired,  many  people  stayed  behind  that  they  might  kiss 
the  ciyshions  upon  which  he  had  sat.  We  had  two  or  three  of  these 
exhibitions  while  I  was  at  Desheripgay;  bat  haying  giyen  a 
description  of  one,  I  will  forbear  mentioning  the  rest 

Among  all  offerings,  dried  sheep's  carcasses  always  form  a 
principal  article.  They  are  as  stiff  as  a  poker,  are  set  np  on  end, 
and  make,  to  a  stranger,  a  yery  droll  appearance.  I  was  at  some 
pains  to  inquire  about  the  method  of  preserying  them,  as  it  is  a 
practice  common  to  Tatary  as  well  as  Tibet ;  but  I  could  discoyer 
no  mystery  in  it.  The  sheep  is  killed,  is  beheaded,  is  skinned,  is 
cleaned ;  the  four  feet  are  then  put  together  in  such  a  manner  as 
may  keep  the  carcass  most  open.  During  a  fortnight  it  is  eyery 
night  exposed  on  the  top  of  the  house,  or  in  some  other  airy  situa- 
tion, and  in  the  heat  of  the  day  it  is  kept  in  a  cool  room.  After  it 
is  fully  dried  it  may  be  kept  anywhere.  In  this  way  they  preserye 
mutton  all  the  year  round.^  The  end  of  autumn,  when  the  sheep 
are  fitttened  with  the  summer's  grass,  is  the  usual  time  for  killiug 
them;  and  the  difficulty  of  snppoi-ting  the  flocks  in  the  winter 
time  is,  I  beUeye,  the  reason  for  adopting  this  method.  In  the  hot 
and  rainy  season  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  small  quantity  of  salt ;  but 
few  carcasses  are  then  dried.  I  found  the  dried  mutton  generally 
more  tender  than  that  fresh  killed,  but  not  so  juicy  and  high 
flayoured.  The  Tibetans  often  eat  it  raw,  and  I  once  followed  their 
example ;  it  had  much  the  tast«  of  dried  fish.  The  facility  with 
which  meat  is  preseryed  from  putrefaction  in  this  country  may  be 
owing  partly  to  the  coldness  of  the  climate,  partly  to  the  uncommon 
dryness  of  a  grayeUy  and  sandy  soil,  and  partly  to  the  scarcity  of 
flies  and  other  maggot-breeding  insects. 

Mirza  Setter,  the  Kashmiri  who  accompanied  me,  was  lodged 
outside  the  palace.  A  fakir  had  arriyed  from  Lhasa,  and  haying 
brought  him  tidings  of  his  brother,  the  Kashmiri  could  not  do  less 
than  giye  him  a  share  of  his  quarters.  This  morning  (Noyember 
19),  before  I  got  up,  Mirza  came  into  my  room,  and  fell  a  skip- 
ping and  dancing  in  a  manner  yery  unbecoming  his  years  and 
gravity.  He  then  lay  down  and  rolled  himself  on  the  floor,  and 
at  length,  fiBJling  upon  me,  oyerwhelmed  me  with  embraces.     I 

*  Like  the  charqni  of  South  America,  the  *' jerked  "  beef  of  the  buccaneers. 


Oh.  Vni.]  CHARITT  OF  THE  LAMA.  g7 

conduded  him  mad,  and  starting  np,  called  for  my  servants  to 
carry  him  downstairs.  His  solicitude  to  get  rid  of  an  intermittent 
feyer  had,  it  seems>  induced  him  to  take  a  nostrtun  from  his  guest, 
which  had  operated  in  this  extraordinary  way.  However,  wlutt  by 
means  of  a  vomit,  which  Mr.  Hamilton  gave  him,  and  what  from 
some  charmed  vmter  which  the  Lama  sent  him,  he  soon  recoyered* 
But  the  hUr  was  thrown  into  prison,  and  it  cost  me  some  entreaties 
to  procure  his  release.  I  think  he  will  be  cautious  of  acting  again 
in  a  medical  capacity. 

The  palace  was  illuminated  on  account  of  its  being  the  Dalai 
Lama's  birthday.  Lamps  were  placed  all  around  the  balustrades  of 
the  terrace.  The  illuminations  at  the  houses  of  some  nuns,  who 
liye  at  the  top  of  the  hill  which  hangs  oyer  the  palace,  had  a  good 
effect.  We  had  music  and  kettledrums,  but  no  fireworks.  They 
have  them  at  Lhasa. 

Among  the  other  good  quaUties  which  Teshu  Lama  possesses  is 
that  of  charity,  and  he  has  plenty  of  opportunities  of  exercising  it. 
The  country  swarms  with  beggars  who  follow  this  profession  from 
generation  to  generation,  and  the  Lama  entertains  besides  a  number 
of  fietkirs  who  resort  hitiier  from  India.  As  he  speaks  their  language 
tolerably  well,  he  every  day  converses  with  them  from  his  windows, 
and  picks  up  by  this  means  a  knowledge  of  the  different  countries  and 
goyemments  of  Hindustan.  Many  of  them  come  on  commercial 
schemes ;  but  although  very  opulent,  they  continue  to  wear  a  homely 
dress,  and  to  receive  charity  from  the  Lama.  Others  come  on  pretence 
of  pilgrimages  to  the  Lama ;  their  real  object,  however,  being  to 
share  his  bounty.  He  gives  them  a  monthly  allowance  of  tea, 
butter,  and  flour,  besides  money,  and  often  bestows  something  con- 
siderable upon  them  at  their  departure.  The  Gosains,  who  are 
thus  supported  at  the  Lama's  expense,  may  be  in  number  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty,  besides  about  thirty  Mussulman  £a.kirs.  For, 
although  the  genius  of  the  religion  of  Muhammad  is  hostile  to  that 
of  the  Lama,  yet  he  is  possessed  of  much  Christian  charity,  and  is 
free  from  those  narrow  prejudices  which,  next  to  ambition  and 
ayarice,  have  opened  the  most  copious  source  of  human  misery. 
This  charity  to  the  pilgrims  flows,  I  imagine,  partly  from  the 
generosity  of  the  Lama's  temper,  partiy  from  the  desire  of  acquiring 
information,  and  satisfying  his  curiosity  about  Hindustan,  the  school 


88  TIBETAN  DRESS.  [Oh.  VIII. 

of  the  religion  of  Tibet.  But  the  fiaikirs,  in  their  return  to  their 
own  oonntry,  or  in  their  rambles  through  other  kingdoms  of  Asiit, 
naturally  extol  the  bounty  of  their  benefactor,  and  thus  serve  to 
spread  wide  the  &me  of  his  character. 

The  Gentoo^  {bJdib,  as  &r  as  I  can  judge,  are  in  general  a  very 
worthless  set  of  people,  devoid  of  principle,  and  being  separated  by 
their  profession  from  all  those  ties  of  kindred  and  &mily  which 
serve  to  bind  the  rest  of  mankind,  they  have  no  object  but  their 
own  interest,  and,  covered  with  the  cloak  of  religion,  are  regardless 
of  their  caste,  of  their  character,  and  of  everything  else  which  is  held 
sacred  among  the  Hindus.  Their  victuals  are  dressed  by  Tibet 
servants ;  there  is  no  kind  of  meat,  beef  excepted,  which  they  do  not 
eat.  They  drink  plentifully  of  spirituous  liquors,  and  dthough 
directly  contrary  to  their  vows  and  to  the  rules  of  their  order,  above 
one  half  of  them  keep  women.  In  their  deportment  they  t^X  by 
a  strange  combination,  the  most  fawning  and  flattering  servility 
with  the  most  clamorous  insolenca  They  intrude  into  every  com- 
pany, give  their  opinion  in  every  conversation,  and  convey  what 
they  have  to  say  in  a  voice  like  thunder.  They  are  universally 
distiked  by  the  Tibetans,  have  no  protector  but  the  Lama,  and  if 
he  were  to  die  to-morrow  they  would  next  day  be  driven  from  the 
palace.  It  may  appear  strange,  after  giving  them  this  character,  that 
I  should  have  bestowed  a  good  deal  of  money  among  the  fieddis. 
But  I  will  confess  I  did  it  from  worldly  motives,  and  am  {bh  from 
expecting  that  it  wiU  draw  down  the  favour  of  heaven  upon  my 
constituents,  or  serve  **  to  cover  the  multitude  of  my  sins." 

The  Lama  used  to  send  a  priest  to  me  early  every  morning  with 
some  bread  and  tea,  or  some  boiled  rice  and  chopped  mutton ;  of 
which  last,  as  I  always  like  to  do  at  Borne  as  they  do  at  Borne,  I 
used  to  eat  very  heartily.  This  practice  was  continued  till  my 
departure  for  Bengal. 

The  weather  was  very  cold ;  the  water  in  my  room  used  to  freeze 
even  in  the  day  time ;  and  I  seldom  stirred  out  of  the  house,  where 
nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  bare  hills,  a  few  leafless  trees,  and  a  bleak 
and  comfortless  country.  Some  days  after  my  arrival  the  Lama 
had  given  me  a  Tibetan  dress,  consisting  of  a  purple  satin  tunic, 

^  A  Hindu.    A  corrupt  word  derived  from  the  Portuguese  Gimiio,  u  gcutile  ar 
heathen.    (WHboii.) 


Ch.  VIU.]  TIBETAN  DRESS.  89 

lined  with  Siberian  fox  skins ;  a  yellow  satin  cap^  fiEU^ed  round  with 
sable  and  crowned  with  a  red  silk  tassel,  and  a  pair  of  red  silk 
Bulgar  hide  boots.  In  this  I  equipped  myself,  glad  to  abandon  my 
European  habit,  which  wad  both  uncomfortable  and  exposed  me  to 
abundance  of  that  troublesome  curiosity  which  the  Tibetans  possess 
in  a  degree  inferior  to  no  other  people. 

The  Lama  now  prepared  to  return  to  his  palace  at  Teshu 
Lumbo,  which  he  had  been  obliged,  about  three  years  ago,  to  quit 
on  accoxmt  of  the  smallpox. 


90  LEAVE  DESHEBIPGAY.  [Gh.  IX. 


CHAPTEB  IX. 

RIDE  FROM  DESHERIPGAY  TO  TESHU  LUMBO. 

At  length  the  7th  of  December,  the  day  of  our  departure  from 
Desheripgay,  arrived.  The  Lama  sent  to  me  to  know  whether  I 
ohose  to  accompany  him,  or  to  go  on  before,  as  he  had  heard  we 
were  fond  of  riding  fast,  and  it  might  be  irksome  trayelliDg  in  his 
slow  way.  This  question  arose,  I  beliere,  from  the  race  I  had  run 
with  Purungir  upon  the  road.^  There  was  nothing  ill-natured  in 
it.     I  returned  him  for  answer  that  I  wished  to  attend  his  stirrup^ 

We  were  wakened  long  before  day,  and  before  sunrise  the  Lama 
set  out  on  his  journey.  The  road  was  covered  with  cloth  from  his 
apartments  to  the  steps  by  which  he  was  to  get  on  horseback.  He 
was  dressed,  as  usual,  in  a  yellow  broad  cloth  jacket  without  sleeves. 
When  he  came  to  the  steps  he  pulled  off  his  cap,  and  his  sopori^  put 
on  him  one  lined  with  far,  together  with  a  black  silk  flap  with 
fringes  to  keep  off  the  sun's  rays.  He  then  got  upon  horseback,  and 
a  yellow  satin  cloak  lined  with  fur  was  thrown  over  him.  Two 
men  held  his  horse's  head  and  two  others  his  saddle.  The  Lama 
once  got  a  fall,  and  is  a  very  timorous  rider. 

The  sun  was  not  yet  up  and  the  cold  was  excessive.  I  thought 
I  should  have  lost  my  fingers.  When  we  had  gone  about  half  a  mile 
the  people  gave  three  hurrahs,  at  each  of  which  we  turned  our 
horses'  heads  towards  the  palace.  Crowds  of  people  were  assembled 
to  see  and  pay  their  adorations  to  the  Lama.  The  horsemen,  how- 
ever, kept  them  off,  and  they  were  obliged  to  perform  their  three 
prostrations  at  a  great  distance.  Only  such  as  had  erected  little 
altars  with  fires  were  allowed  to  remain,  and  the  smoke  of  these, 
however  disagreeable,  served  to  render  the  cold  less  intense.  In 
this  way  we  proceeded  along  the  western  banks  of  the  Chamnam- 
ring  rivulet.^ 

'  See  p.  79,  and  note  at  p.  1.  '  The  river  Shiang-chu,  aooording  to 

•  Cup-bearer.    (See  p.  83.)  Colonel  Montgomerie's  explorer  of  1871  • 


Oh.  IX.]  TE8HU-TZAY.  91 

Our  line  of  march  was  as  follows : 

A  Tellow  Silk  Standard,  bound  np  in  two  or  three  plaoea  with  white 

handkerchiefa,  carried  by  a  man  cm  horseback. 

Eight  Kettledrums  on  horseback. 

Four  Trumpeters  on  horseback. 

A  Set  of  BeUs  in  a  frame  on  horseback. 

About  Fifty  Horsemen,  some  with  large  yellow  sheepskin  bonnets  and  red 

broadcloth  coats,  others  with  fur  caps  and  satin  gowns. 
Four  Lamas,  or  High  Priests,  in  yellow  tuuics,  with  brown  serge  thrown 

over,  and7el]ow  picked  caps. 

Sopon  Chumbo,  the  Cup-bearer,  or  Favourite. 

The  Tesht  Lama. 

A  Yellow  Satin  Umbrella,  with  strings  of  coral,  carried  on  horseback. 

The  Chanzo  *  Gusho. 
His  Cup-bearer.  The  Treasurer. 

Mr.  Bogle. 

Mr.  Hamilton. 

Cheyt  8ing*8*  and  other  Hindu  vakils. 

The  Pyn  Oushos,  nephews  of  the  Lama. 

About  a  Hundred  Horsemen  of  different  ranks  and  in  various  dresses. 

At  sunrise  we  stopped  at  some  tents  and  drank  tea.  That 
of  the  Lama  was  about  the  size  of  a  captain's,  and  shut  in  with 
walls.  The  Chanzo  Cosho's  was  rather  less.  The  form  of  the 
tents  was  the  same  as  in  Europe.  They  were  of  white  Assam 
canyas,  with  blue  flowers  and  fringes.  I  was  not  in  them,  a 
separate  tent  being  provided  for  me.  Having  halted  about  an 
hour,  we  continued  our  journey  in  the  same  order  as  before,  and 
VTith  the  same  crowds  of  people.  After  passing  the  different  cross 
valleys  which  open  into  that  of  Chamnamring,  we  entered  that 
of  Teshu-tzay,^  and  arrived  at  the  road  which  leads  up  to  a 
monastery  built  on  the  top  of  a  hill.  Everybody  alighted  except 
the  Lama,  who  rode  up  the  hill,  and  then  walked  into  the  house 
upon  cloths  which  were  spread  for  him.  I  was  carried  into  a 
tent  as  before,  and  besides  tea  had  some  cold  mutton,  rice  broth, 
and  fruits.     The  nuns  ^  who  live  here  went  in  procession  to  pay 

*  Turner  has  Chanjoo  Cooshoo.     He  '  The  Rajah  of  Benares,  who  was 

was  brother  of  the  Teshu  Lama,  and,  in  afterwards  deposed  by  Warren  Hast- 

Tumer's  time,  after  the  Lama's  un-  ings. 

timely  death,  regent  of  the  country  *  Oa  the  west  side  of  the  Shiang* 

during  the  minority  of  the  child  Lama.  chu. 

Cnsho  18  perhaps  iTiuAo^,  a  title  of  rank,  ^  The  explorer  of  1872  mentions  a 

religious  and  civil.    Chanzo,  or  Glian-  monastery  inhabited  by  nuns  in  about 

joo,  may  be  Thango-pa,  a  word  meaning  this  position,  but  he  calls  it  Chom. 
"  pure,"  "  holy."" 


92  A  TIBETAN  DANCE.  [Ch.  IX. 

their  respects  to  the  Lama.  Many  of  them  were  young  and  well- 
looking  ;  but  their  dress,  which  is  the  same  as  the  gylongs,  is  yery 
nnheooming,  and  the  loss  of  their  hair  is  a  great  want.  Two  of  the 
Lama's  nieces  are  placed  in  this  convent.  We  stayed  abont  two 
honrs,  and  halted  again  at  an  encampment  two  miles  fiEurther  np  the 
yalley,  to  drink  tea.  About  a  mile  fiEirther  on  we  arriyed  at  Tesha- 
tzay,  the  Lama's  birth-place. 

I  was  lodged  in  a  low  room  in  a  sorry  house,  at  the  foot  of 
the  monnt  npon  which  it  stands.  It  was  the  worst  quarters  I  had 
met  with  in  the  country.  However,  it  was  only  for  a  day  or  two,  so 
I  did  not  mind.  But  the  Lama  sent  a  gylong  overnight  with 
some  fruits,  &c.,  and  he  having  given  a  report  of  my  accommoda- 
tion, the  Lama  sent  to  me  next  day,  and  I  was  removed  into  a 
good  room  in  the  castle,  which  looked  into  a  small  court,  where  the 
dancers,  &c.,  were  to  exhibit.  The  Lama's  nephews  came  and 
passed  the  whole  day  with  me,  and  I  here  began  an  acquaintance 
and  connection  with  them,  which  turned  out  the  most  pleasurable 
of  any  I  made  in  the  country.  I  had  also  a  visit  from  his  nieces,  the 
nuns,  and  the  Teshu-tzay  Debu,  or  Eilladar,^  likewise  paid  me  a 
visit,  and  brought  me  a  present  of  a  handkerchief,  two  or  three  small 
purses  of  gold  dust,  some  fruit,  &e.  I  returned  the  compliment  in 
the  evening. 

I  passed  the  time  in  looking  at  the  dancers,  or  playing  at  chess 
with  some  of  the  Tibetan&  The  court  held  about  thirty  dancers, 
half  of  them  men,  half  of  them  women.  The  men  were  dressed 
in  different  and  party-coloured  clothes,  with  their  large  sheep's- 
wool  bonnets,  a  bit  of  coloured  silk  in  one  hand,  and  a  leather 
machine,  something  in  shape  of,  but  rather  less  than,  a  fiddle  at 
their  side.  The  women  had  their  &ces  washed,  and  clean  clothes, 
abundance  of  rings  upon  their  fingers,  and  of  coral,  amber  beads, 
bugles,  &a,  on  their  heads  and  necks,  and  each  wore  a  small  round 
hat,  covered  with  circles  of  white  beads.  They  formed  a  ring,  the 
men  being  altogether,  the  women  altogether,  and  five  men  were  in 
the  middle  of  it.  They  danced  to  their  own  singing,  moving  slowly 
round  in  a  sort  of  half-hop  step,  keeping  time  with  their  hands,  while 
the  five  in  the  centre  twisted  round  and  cut  capers,  with  many  strange 

'  Killadar,  the  governor  of  a  fort  in  Hindusttmi.    Debu  is  tlio  c<iuivaleut  iii 
Tibttuu. 


Ch.  IX.]  BIRTH-PLACE  OF  THE  LAMA.  93 

and  indescribable  motions.  The  second  part  of  the  entertainment 
was  performed  by  fonr  or  fire  men,  with  winged  rainbow-oolonred 
caps,  who  jnmped  and  twisted  about,  to  the  lashing  of  cymbals 
and  the  beating  of  tabors.  Among  the  rest  was  a  merry  Andrew 
with  a  mask  stuck  oyer  with  cowries,  and  a  clown  with  a  large  stick 
in  his  hand.  These  two  were  more  agile  than  the  others,  and  be- 
tween whiles  carried  on  a  dialogue,  and  the  grimace  and  conversation 
gave  great  entertainment  to  those  who  understood  it.  As  I  was 
not  so  fortunate,  I  was  obliged,  as  I  have  often  been  in  more  polite 
assemblies,  to  seek  for  amusement  in  the  dress  and  physiognomies 
of  the  spectators. 

In  this  manner  did  I  spend  two  days.  Towards  the  close  of  the 
last  the  Lama  seated  himself  under  a  canopy  and  blessed  the  people, 
a  ceremony  which  I  have  already  described. 

The  house  where  the  Lama  was  born  is  built  on  the  top  of  a 
high  bank.  It  is  yery  large,  the  windows  regular,  flat-roofed,  and 
of  goodly  appearance  from  without ;  within,  irregular  and  smoked. 
I  was  not  in  many  of  the  rooms.  All  the  adjacent  villages,  together 
with  the  valley,  which  is  pretty  extensive,  were  granted  to  the  Teshu 
Lama  by  the  Dalai  Lama,  to  whom  they  formerly  belonged. 

We  got  up  before  daybreak,  continued  our  journey  as  soon  as  it 
was  light ;  stopped  at  the  tents  to  drink  tea ;  got  out  of  the  valley 
of  Teshu-tzay  by  the  same  road  that  we  had  entered  it,  and  pro** 
oeeded  towards  the  great  river.  About  eleven  o'clock  we  reached 
some  tents  where  refreshments  of  tea,  cold  mutton,  &c.,  were 
prepared  for  us,  and  arrived  towards  evening  at  our  quarters,  which 
formed  a  Uttle  encampment.  The  Lama's  tent  was  a  large  Ealmuk 
one  enclosed  within  walls,  and  as  he  sent  for  me  soon  after  our 
arrival,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  it  more  narrowly.  It  was 
round,  about  sixty  feet  in  circumference,  and  formed  of  a  number 
of  rods  stuck  into  the  ground,  and  gathered  at  the  top  into  a  hoop, 
which  was  covered  witli  oiled  paper  to  let  in  the  light.  On  the 
outside  it  was  covered  with  white  cloth,  except  the  top,  over  which 
some  very  beautiful  panther  skins  were  spread.  The  entrance  was 
by  a  small  door.  All  the  inside  was  hung  with  crimson  satin,  and 
the  floor  covered  with  carpet.  It  was  very  warm  and  commodious. 
The  Ghanzo  Cosho  was  lodged  at  a  little  distance  in  a  small  tent 
of  a  like  construction,  but  I  was  not  in  it. 


94         RETURN  OF  THE  LAMA  TO  HIS  PALACR     [Ch.  IX. 

My  habitation  would  have  done  better  for  a  milder  dimate. 
The  tent  had  walls  ronnd  it,  and  was  of  double  canyas,  and  in  Euro- 
pean form.  Howeyer,  I  got  a  large  fire,  and  coyered  myself  well 
up  at  night  with  all  my  furs  and  sheep's  clothing.  In  the  morning 
before  we  set]  out  I  looked  at  the  thermometer,  which  was  kept  in 
a  basket  among  linen,  and  found  it  within  two  degrees  of  the 
bottom  of  the  scale. 

We  did  not  stop  till  we  arriyed  on  the  bank  of  the  Tsanpu. 
Here  we  halted  till  our  horses  were  ferried  oyer,  and  had  the  same 
refreshments  as  usual.  About  two  thousand  people  were  assembled 
to  see  and  prostrate  themselyes  before  his  Holiness.  The  Lama 
walked  upon  cloths  to  the  riyer  side.  His  nephews,  who  had  accom- 
panied him,  here  took  leaye.  He  made  me  go  in  the  boat  with 
him,  in  which  were  only  the  Ghanzo  and  the  two  sopans.  The 
boat  I  haye  elsewhere  described.  The  riyer  was  coyered  with 
shoals  of  floating  ice.  On  the  opposite  bank  the  Kashmiri 
merchants  and  great  crowds  of  Tibetans  waited.  They  made  their 
obeisance  at  a  distance.  We  arriyed  at  our  quarters  towards 
eyening.  They  were  like  the  former.  The  Lama  sent  for  me,  and 
obserying  that  my  saddle,  howeyer  well  calculated  for  trayelling  or 
hunting,  was  not  suited  to  the  fashion  of  this  country,  presented 
me  with  a  Tibet  one,  which  had  a  yery  deep  peak  of  iron,  all  stuffed, 
so  that  it  makes  one  look  yery  lofty.  All  the  ironwork  of  the 
saddle  and  also  of  the  bridle  was  gilt.  He  also  gaye  me  a  yellow 
satin  tunic,  fia^ced  with  black  fur ;  for,  says  he,  **  you  are  to  go  into 
my  capital  to-morrow."  These  little  civilities  gained  a  high  yalue 
firom  the  manner  in  which  they  were  done. 

We  stopped  about  three  miles  from  Teshu  Lumbo,  the  crowds 
increasing  as  we  adyanced.  The  Lama  had  a  large  tent  pitched 
for  him,  where  eyerybody  came  to  pay  their  respects  and  receive 
his  blessing.  He  was  dressed  in  his  sacerdotal  habit,  and  seated  on 
his  high-raised  cushions.  I  was  placed  the  second  from  the  Chanzo 
Gusho,  and  next  under  the  Dalai  Lama's  yakiL  We  had  some  tea, 
boiled  roots,  and  rice  with  sugar  at  the  top,  while  numbers  of  people 
passed  before  him  and  received  the  chawa  or  imposition  of  hands. 
The  Shigatz^  Eilladars  ^  cut  the  most  remarkable  figure.  They  were 
dressed  like  women,  but  their  whiskers  and  overgrown  carcasses  left 

*  See  note  at  p.  92. 


Oh.  IX.]        ENTHUSIASTIC  RECEPTION  OF  THE  LAMA. 


95 


no  room  to  mistake  their  aez.  Their  heads  were  hotind  with  white 
turbans  rolled  into  a  square  form  ;  round  tarqnoise  earrings,  abont 
the  size  of  a  watch,  hung  firom  their  ears,  and  fell  npon  their 
shoulders.  They  wore  sUppers,  and  the  rest  of  their  dress  was  of 
blue  satin,  with  their  arms  bare  to  the  elbows.  This  habit  is  worn 
by  aU  the  lay  officers  sabject  to  Lhasa,  on  holidays  and  grand 
occasions.  We  had  much  singing  and  dancing  without  the  Lama's 
tent,  by  gylongs  dressed  in  party-coloured  habits,^  and  also  by  the 
peasants.  The  castle  of  Shigatze,^  which  stands  to  the  eastward 
of  Teshn  Lnmbo,  was  now  above  ns.  It  ia  built  on  a  hill  with 
towers  and  battlements,  and  is  subject  to  Lhasa. 

From  the  resting  place  till  we  arrired  at  the  Lama's  palace  the 
road  was  lined  on  both  sides  with  ranks  of  spectators.  They  were 
all  dressed  in  their  holiday  clothes.  The  peasants  were  singing  and 
dancing.  About  three  thousand  gylongs,  some  with  large  pieces 
of  chequered  doth  hung  upon  their  breasts,  others  with  their 
cymbals  and  tabors,  were  ranked  next  the  palace.  As  the  Lama 
passed  they  bent  half  forwards,  and  followed  him  with  their  eyes. 
But  there  was  a  look  of  veneration  mixed  with  joy  in  their 
•countenances  which  pleased  me  beyond  anything,  and  was  a  surer 
testimony  of  satisfiaction  than  all  the  guns  in  the  Tower,  and  all  the 
odes  of  Whitehead^  could  have  given.  One  catches  affection  by 
sympathy,  and  I  could  not  help,  in  some  measure,  feeling  the  same 
emotions  with  the  Lama's  votaries. 

The  Lama  rode  as  &r  as  he  could,  and  then  walked  slowly 
through  the  purlieus  of  the  palace,  stopping  now  and  then,  and 
casting  a  cheerful  look  among  his  people. 


'  This  irresistibly  recalls  the  doings 
of  the  "  Monk  of  Misrule  "  of  Christen- 
dom in  the  middle  ages. 

*  Or  Digarchi.  Klaproth  has  Jika- 
dze,  meaning  a  fortress  situated  on  a 
mountain. 

'  Here,  again,  Mr.  Bogle's  reading  of 
ChurchiU  crops  up  (see  ante^  p.  71). 
That  satirist,  in  his  *  Prophecy  of 
Famine,'  thus  writes  of  Whitehead,  the 
LfBureate : — 

**  Thus  spake  a  fonn,  by  silken  smile 
and  tone, 


Dull  and  unvaried,  for  the  Laureate 

known, 
Folly's     chief    friend,      Decorum's 

eldest  son. 
In  every  party  found,  and  yet   of 

none." 
Willinm  Whitehead  became  Poet 
Laureate  on  the  death  of  Colley  Cibber, 
in  1757,  and  held  the  post  until  bis 
death  in  1785.  Then  followed  Thomas 
Wharton,  Pye,  Southey,  Wordsworth, 
Tennyson. 


9(1 


TESHU  LUMBO. 


[Ch.  X. 


CHAPTEB  X. 


TESHU    LUMBO.' 

We  passed  by  the  foot  of  Teshu  Lumbo,  which  is  built  on 
the  lower  declivity  of  a  steep  hill.  The  roof  of  the  palace,  which 
is  large,  is  all  of  copper  gUt.  The  building  is  of  dark-ocdoured 
bricL  The  houses  of  the  town  rise  one  above  another;  four 
churches  with  gilt  ornaments  are  mixed  with  them,  and  altogether 
it  presents  a.  princely  appearance.  Many  of  the  courts  are  spacious, 
flagged  with  stone,  and  with  galleries  running  round  them.  The 
alleys,  which  are  likewise  paved,  are  narrow.  The  palace  is  appro- 
priated to  the  Lama  and  his  officei-s,  to  temples,  granaries,  ware- 
houses, &c.  The  rest  of  the  town  is  entirely  inhabited  by  priests, 
who  are  in  number  about  four  .thousand.'  The  views  of  it,  which 
the  Lama  afterwards  gave  to  me,  will  convey  a  better  idea  of  it 
than  any  account  I  can  write.  For  there  is  no  describing  a  place 
so  as  to  give  others  a  just  notion  of  it. 

I  attended  the  Lama  to  his  apartments,  and  as  soon  as  I  retired 
I  was  conducted  to  my  own.  They  are  new,  having  been  built 
and  finished  by  Chanzo  Gusho  during  the  lama's  absence  at 
Desheripgay.  There  was  one  room  for  me,  and  another  for  Mr. 
Hamilton.  I  do  not  think  the  apartment  allotted  to  me  inferior  to 
any  at  Teshu  Lumbo ;  and  although  I  have  little  success  at  these 
sorts  of  descriptions,  I  must  attempt  to  give  some  account  of  it. 
You  enter  by  a  door  formed  of  one  piece  of  wood,  painted  red ;  the 


*  Turner  gives  the  latitude  of  Teshu 
Lumbo  at  2y®  4'  20"  N.,  from  six  meri- 
dian  altitades  of  tho  sun,  and  the  longi- 
tude 89°  r  E.  (p.  293.)  The  •  Pundit ' 
of  1865  gives  the  latitude  of  Shigatze, 
which  is  a  sliort  distance  from  Teshu 
Lumbo,  at  29^  16'  32"  N.,  and  the 
height  above  the  sea  at  11,822  feet. 
Schlagiutweit  spells  the  word  Tashil- 
hiiniK),  but  gives  the  exact  translitera- 


tion as  **6khra  shis  Ihun  po"  (the 
Mountain  of  Grace).  Mr.  Bogle,  ia 
a  vocabulary,  gives  the  meaning  of 
Lumbo  as  **  country.*'  It  should  be 
*•  hill/*  or**  lump." 

*  In  the  small  vaUey  of  Nepal,  Mr. 
Hodgson  tells  us  that^  some  years  agOy 
there  were  5000  Bandyas,  which  term 
seems  to  be  the  equivalent  of  Bogle's 
priest. 


RELIGIOUS  BUILDINGS  IN  THE  TESKU  LUMBO  MONASTERY. 


Ch.  X.]  PALACE  OF  TESHU  LAMA.  '  97. 

hinges  of  iron,  cnnningly  gilt,  having  a  large  ring  of  the  same 
workmanship  in  the  middle,  with  a  white  satin  handkerchief  tied  to 
it,  so  that  yon  may  not  wear  off  the  gilding  in  pulling  the  door 
after  yon.  The  door  tnrns  npon  two  pegs  cnt  out  of  the  planks, 
and  receiyed  into  two  holes  top  and  bottom.  It  is  fastened  by  an 
iron  latch  and  staple,  with  a  lock  of  the  construction  of  Chinese 
ones,  and  about  a  foot  long.  The  room  is  about  fifty  feet  long  and 
thirty  broad,  interrupted  by  nine  square  wooden  pillars,  painted 
red  with  white  streaks,  which  make  them  look  fluted.  There  are 
two  small  windows  with  wooden  shutters  at  the  west  end,  but 
I  never  opened  them,  having  enough  light  from  above,  for  in 
the  ceiling  of  the  room  there  is  an  opening  about  thirty  feet 
long  and  fifteen  wide ;  and  the  south  side  being  covered  only  with 
loose  planks,  laid  slopingly  over,  you  remove  as  many  of  them  as 
you  please  in  the  day  time,  and  shut  them  up  again  at  night.  They 
rest  upon  a  beam,  supported  by  the  two  middlemost  of  the  nine 
pillars,  which  are  much  longer  than  the  others.  The  walls, 
which  are  of  plaster,  are  painted  green,  broken  with  a  few  bands 
of  blue  and  yellow.  The  capitals  of  the  pillars,  and  the  beams 
which  form  the  four  sides  of  the  opening  I  have  mentioned,  are 
curiously  carved,  gilt  and  ornamented  with  festoons  of  dragons  and 
flowers.  The  floor  is  of  chalky  clay,  mixed  with  small  pebbles, 
and  formed  into  a  smooth  and  very  beautiful  terrace,  which,  by  the 
labours  of  a  young  gylong,  who  every  morning  gets  his  feet  upon 
two  woollen  cloths,  and  exercises  himself  for  three  or  four  hours  in 
skating  about  the  room,  will,  in  the  course  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
years,  acquire  a  polish  equal  to  the  other  floors  in  the  palace,  which 
are  not  inferior  to  the  finest  variegated  marble.  Mr.  Hamilton's 
room  was  much  smaller  and  warmer  than  mine. 

From  the  day  of  our  arrival  at  Teshu  Lumbo  till  the  18th 
of  January,  1775,  the  Lama  was  engaged  in  receiving  visits  and 
presents.  Among  the  rest  of  his  votaries  were  a  large  caravan  of 
Kalmuks,  who  offered  up  to  his  shrine  talents  of  silver,  furs,  pieces 
of  silk,  and  dromedaries.  They  remained  about  a  month  at  Teshu 
Lumbo,  and  then  proceeded  to  Lhasa,  where,  having  spent  about 
ten  days,  they  returned  to  their  own  country,  which  was  about 
three  months'  journey  to  the  northward. 

I  was  not  present  on  any  of  these  occasions,  but  remained  at 

H 


d8  CEREMONY  OF  BLESSING  THE  PEOPLE.  [Gh.  X. 

home,  where  I  had  enough  Yigitors  of  my  own;  for  crowdB  of 
gylongs  nfled  to  oome  into  my  room  to  see  me  at  all  hours,  or  get 
upon  the  leads  and  look  down  npon  me.  Among  these  last  came 
the  Shigatz6  Eilladars,  dressed  in  their  feminine  attire.  I  never 
forhade  anybody;  And  after  giving  them  a  pinch  of  snuff  and 
indulging  them  with  a  look  at  the  chairs,  ftc,  which  always  pro- 
duced an  exclamation  of  '*  Pah-pah-pah,  tze-tze-tze !  "  they  used  to 
retire  and  make  way  for  others.  This  continued,  more  or  less,  all 
the  time  I  was  at  Teshu  Lumho. 

The  Lama  went  down  to  the  large  hall  which  adjoins  my 
apartments,  in  order  to  bless  the  people.  It  is  about  sixty  feet  long 
and  fifty  broad ;  the  ceiling  supported  by  a  number  of  high  pillars, 
and  the  walls  adorned  with  mythological  paintings.  The  Lama 
was  seated  upon  a  lofty  throne,  raised  with  cushions,  under  an 
alcove  at  one  end  of  the  room.  There  was  another,  not  so  high,  on 
his  right  hand,  which  belongs  to  Chanzo  Cusho,  who  sat,  however, 
on  a  low  cushion  at  the  foot  of  the  Lama's  throne,  the  Sopon 
Ohumho  standing  beside  it.  Immediately  without  the  alcove  were 
placed  the  four  inferior  Lamas.  I  was  seated  upon  a  cushion  next 
to  them,  and  opposite  to  me  sat  a  Ealmuk  Lama,  lately  arrived 
from  the  Ehalka  Lama,  called  by  the  Hindus  Taranath,^  and 
close  to  him  the  Dalai  Lama's  vakil.  Cheyt  Sing's  vakil  waa 
placed  below  me  and  Mr.  Hamilton,  towards  the  door,  and  after 
him  a  vakil  from  Kashmiri  Mull,  and  other  Hindus.  I  came 
in  soon  after  the  lama  was  seated,  and  having  made  three  profound 
bows,  presented  to  him  my  handkerchief,  which  he  always  reoeives 
with  his  own  hands.  He  spoke  to  me  for  about  two  minutes, 
inquiring  about  my  health,  what  I  thought  of  Teshu  Lumbo,  and 
how  I  Hked  my  accommodation.  After  this  crowds  of  people, 
gylongs,  annis,  Eampas,  Ealmuks,  governors  of  all  the  neighbour- 
ing castles,  men,  women,  and  children  came  to  make  their  offerings 
and  obeisances  to  the  Lama,  bringing  purses  of  gold,  talents 
of  silver,  pieces  of  Chinese  satin,  bundles  of  tea  or  of  fruits,  dried 
sheep's  carcasses,  bags  of  flour  or  of  rice,  small  images  with  a  bit  of 
yellow  satin  wrapped  mantle- wise  over,  them,  books  of  rdigion, 

^  The  Taranath  Lama  is  the  third  other  two.  The  Taranath  resides  Dortli 
Pontiff  of  the  Yellow  Gap  (Geluckpa  of  Tibet,  among  the  Kbalka  tribes  of 
sect) ;  the  Dalai  and  .Teshu  being  the      outer  Mongolia,  near  Urgft* 


Ch.  X.]  A  TIBETAN  FEAST.  99 

bundleB  of  incenfle,  rods  called  pyes^  bells,  and  a  Tariety  of  different 
articles.  Those  of  low  degree  gaye  only  a  white  satin  handker- 
chief! They  went  np  in  their  turn  to  the  Lama's  throne,  who 
touched  their  heads  in  the  manner  I  have  before  described.  The 
yonng  gylongs  immediately  after  the  imposition  of  hands  retired ; 
but  I  could  not  help  observing  with  pleasure  the  attention  which 
the  Lama  paid  to  some  of  the  old  gylongs,  speaking  to  them  for  a 
minute  or  two  with  that  affable  and  engaging  look  which  ^'  wins 
the  hearts  of  men."  Between  whiles  the  Lama,  and  OTerybody  that 
was  seated,  drank  a  dish  of  tea.  I  had  mine  out  of  the  Lama's 
golden  teapot,  an  honour  bestowed  only  upon  Chanzo  Cnsho,  the 
inferior  Lamas/  and  the  yakHs  of  the  Dalai  Lama  and  Taranath. 
There  was  a  company  of  fifteen  young  boys,  from  seven  to  twelve 
years  old,  dressed  in  different  coloured  chintzes  and  kincobs,  with 
white  turbans,  and  small  axes  in  their  right  hands,  who  at  intervals 
danced  before  the  Lama,  to  the  music  of  hautboys,  flutes,  kettle- 
drums, and  bells,  keeping  time  with  their  axes,  wiUi  their  hoppings, 
iheir  twirlings,  and  many  other  motions  which  I  attempt  not  to 
describe.  I  am  told  it  was  an  imitation  of  a  Sadak  ^  dance.  Another 
part  of  the  entertainment  consisted  of  public  disputes,  which  were 
conducted  by  two  and  two  gylongs.  Beligion  was  the  subject  of 
their  debates ;  perhaps  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  or  the  unchange- 
able nature  of  right  and  wrong ;  but  my  ignorance  of  the  language 
rendered  them  quite  unintelligible  to  me.  They  were  carried  on 
with  much  vociferation  and  feigned  warmth,  and  embellished  with 
great  pov^ers  of  action,  such  as  dapping  hands,  shaking  the  head, 
&c.  These  gestures  are  no 'doubt  very  improper  and  ridiculous, 
because  they  are  quite  different  from  those  used  by  European 
orators,  who  are  the  true  standards  of  what  is  just  and  what  is 
graceful.  Dinner  was  afterwards  brought  in.  Six  large,  low 
tables,  covered  with  wooden  painted  platters,  filled  with  Chinese 
and  E^ashmiri  dried  fruits,  sugar,  treacle  cakes,  and  sweetmeats, 
piles  of  platted  biscuits,  dried  sheep's  carcasses,  &c.,  were  set  before 
the  Lama.  Two  tables  garnished  in  the  like  manner  before  the 
Chanzo  Cusho  ;  and  some  bread,  pieces  of  dried  mutton,  plates  of 
fruits  and  sweetmeats,  before  me  and  each  of  the  other  guests. 

>  Turner  says  that  Sadik  was  a  title  of  the  8opon  Chumbo.    It  is  Bynonymocu 
with  Zempi  in  Bhutan,  nnd  means  cup-bearer  (p.  24G). 

11  2 


100  THE  IMAGES  IN  THE  PALACE.  [Cb.  X. 

After  drinking  a  dish  of  tea,  cnps  of  mntton  hashed  and  of  pounded 
rice  and  mutton  boiled  to  a  jelly  were  set  before  ns,  of  which  I 
ate  heartily.  Then  a  joint  of  mutton  boiled  and  another  roasted, 
upon  the  same  wooden  plate,  were  served  up  to  each.  The  meat 
was  tough  and  sinewy,  but  the  Lama  presently  sent  me  a  leg  of 
most  excellent  boiled  mutton  off  his  own  plate,  and  smilingly 
beckoned  to  me  to  eat  of  it.  When  we  had  finished  our  repast,  the 
Sopon  Chuiriho  distributed  the  fruits,  sweetmeats,  dSrc,  according  to 
a  list  which  he  held  in  his  hand,  sending  some  of  them  to  people 
without  the  palace,  and  the  rest  to  the  guests.  Mine  were  all  upon 
silver  dishes.     Then  everybody  retired. 

The  Lama  went  up  by  a  back  stair  to  visit  the  new  apartments, 
and  carried  me  along  with  him.  He  went  first  into  the  gallery,^ 
which  is  on  the  same  floor  with  my  room,  and  walking  up  to  the 
image  of  the  god  Sakya,  which  is  in  the  middle,  fell  down  three 
times  before  it.  I  may  as  well  describe  this  temple  while  I  am 
here. 

It  contains  thirteen  gigantic  figures,  which  would  be  about 
eight  feet  high  standing ;  but  they  are  all,  except  the  image  of  the 
god  of  war  and  another,  sitting  cross-legged.  They  are  of  copper 
gilt,  holding  a  pot  with  flowers  or  fruit  in  their  lapi  They  are 
represented  covered  with  mantles,  and  crowns  or  mitres  on  their 
heads ;  and  altogether,  particularly  the  drapery,  are  far  from  being 
badly  executed.  The  thrones  upon  which  they  sit  are  also  of 
copper  gilt,  adorned  with  turquoises,  cornelians,  and  other  stones 
not  of  iaestimable  value.  The  mouldings  and  ornaments  of  the 
thrones  are  in  a  good  style.  Behind  each  figure  the  wall  is  covered 
with  a  piece  of  carved  work,  like  unto  the  heavy  gilt  frames  of  onr 
forefathers'  portraits,  or  looking-glasses.  Behind  them  are  china 
vases,  some  of  them  very  handsome,  loads  of  china  and  glass  ware, 
the  last  partly  Chinese,  partly  European,  filled  with  grain,  fruit,  or 
gum  flowers ;  a  variety  of  shells,  large  chanks  set  in  sQver,  some 
ostrich  eggs,  cocoanuts,  cymbals,  and  a  variety  of  other  artidee, 
making  a  most  heterogeneous  figure.  Bound  the  necks  of  the  images 
are  strings  of  coral,  ill-shaped  pearls,  cornelian,  agate,  and  other 
stones,  and  their  crowns  are  set  with  the  like  ornaments.  The 
ceiling  of  the  gallery  is  covered  with  satins  of  a  variety  of  patterns, 

*  This  gallery  is  described  by  Turner  at  p.  274. 


Cb.  X.]  A  GAME  OF  GHBSS.  101 

some  Chinese,  some  Ealmak,  some  European  brought  through 
Bussia  and  overland.  The  gallery  is  lighted  on  the  south  side 
by  five  windows,  and  the  walls  between  are  hung  with  paintings  of 
the  different  deities  and  views  of  heaven.  The  opposite  side, 
where  the  images  are,  is  shut  in  all  the  length  of  the  gallery  with 
a  net  of  ironwork.  The  Lama  went  within,  and  as  be  went  along 
sprinkled  rice  upon  the  images.  It  was  a  kind  of  consecration. 
When  he  came  out  we  sat  down  to  tea,  and  the  Lama  explained  to 
me  some  of  the  paintings,  and  marked  the  different  countries  from 
which  the  silks  overhead  had  come.  At  each  end  of  the  gallery 
was  a  large  collection  of  books  deposited  in  small  niches,  or  rather 
pigeon-holes.  Having  finished  our  tea,  we  went  by  a  back  stair 
into  my  room,  which  the  Lama  also  bespattered  with  rice.  After 
examining  the  furniture,  with  a  set  of  chessmen  in  battle  array 
upon  the  table,  he  passed  into  Mr.  Hamilton's  room,  and  having 
there  performed  the  same  rites  of  dedication,  I  took  my  leave 
and  the  Lama  proceeded  to  his  own  end  of  the  palace. 

Next  morning,  the  Lama  repaired  again  to  the  hall,  whither  we 
all  attended  him.  But  why  should  I  repeat  over  the  ceremonies 
of  which  I  have  already  given  so  minute  and  so  tiresome  a 
description  ? 

I  had  a  visit  from  Debo  Patza,  who  is  one  of  the  four  Tibetan 
generals,  and  I  took  care  to  receive  him  in  all  due  form.  He  said 
he  came  by  the  Lama's  orders,  who  told  him  that  as  I  had  come 
from  so  far  a  country,  and  from  the  sovereigns  of  Hindustan,  it  was 
proper  he  should  wait  upon  me.  He  is  a  very  cheerful,  pleasant 
man,  and  after  some  conversation,  and  drinking  a  dish  or  two  of 
tea,  we  sat  down  to  chess.  Although  my  pieces  were  entirely  new 
to  him,  he  fought  a  tough  battle,  and  I  believe,  if  we  had  played 
another  game,  the  general  would  have  gained  the  victory.  But 
he  was  next  day  to  set  out  for  Lhasa,  and  was  afterwards  ordered 
upon  service  into  Demo  Jong's  country  ^  to  oppose  the  troops  with 
which  the  Gorkha  Bajah  had  invaded  it. 

On  the  25th,  Debo  Dinjl  came  also  to  take  leave  of  me.  He 
is  the  governor  of  a  castle  belonging  to  the  Teshu  Lama,  about 
BIX  days'  journey  higher  up  the  Tsanpu;  and  as  nobody  under 
the  Lama's  jurisdiction  is  put  to  death,  all  great  criminals  are  sent 

»  Sikkim. 


102        RECEPTION  OF  AN  ENVOY  FBOM  LHASA.     [Ch.  X. 

to  him,  where,  by  confiaing  them  without  meat  or  drink,  he  soon 
puts  an  end  to  their  existence.  He  had  paid  me  frequent  and 
unceremonious  Tisite  in  my  tente  upon  the  road.  His  looks  and 
his  manners  are  exactly  those  of  an  oyergrown  comitry  farmer, 
smelling  strongly  of  tobacco.  I  conld  not  help  sometimes  thinking 
him  a  little  crack-brained.  He  disooyered  that  the  dress  of  the 
English  was  exactly  that  of  the  Bossians;  for  indeed  the  tcmio 
which  I  wore,  and  also  my  cap,  the  cut  of  which  was  four-square 
instead  of  being  round,  had  been  made  a  present  of  to  the  Lama 
bv  some  Turki  Tatars.^  I  had  no  business  to  undeceiye  him, 
especially  as  I  got  so  much  into  his  good  graces  on  this  account. 
He  said  he  liked  the  Russians  for  their  enmity  to  the  Chinese,  who 
were  a  base,  treacherous,  and  scoundrelly  people.  I  confess  I  was 
a  good  deal  surprised  at  the  warmth  with  which  he  always  reyived 
this  treasonable  subject,  till  I  discoyered  that  he  had  been  in  the 
seryice  of  Wang  Gusho,  the  last  of  the  Tibet  Sajahs,  who  about 
twenty-fiye  years  ago  was  treacherously  put  to  death  by  the 
Chinese  at  Lhasa.^ 

I  had  a  yisit  from  the  Chauduri,^  a  natiye  of  Palpa,^  whom  I 
haye  elsewhere  mentioned,  accompanied  by  other  Hindustanis.  The 
yaUls  of  Cheyt  Sing  and  of  Kashmiri  Mull  also  came  to  see  me, 
and  afterwards  frequently  repeated  their  yisits.  Their  discourse 
has  no  business  to  come  in  here.  But  I  may  be  allowed  to  remark 
that  the  fulsome  compliments  and  cringing  humility  with  which  it 
was  mixed  were  to  me  little  grateful,  in  comparison  with  the  plain 
and  honest  manners  of  the  Tibetans.  For  what  is  conyersationy 
what  is  society,  without  sincerity  ? 

The  Lama  was  to  receiye  the  yakils  sent  by  the  Dalai  Lama 
and  Gesub  Bimboch6°  at  Lhasa,  to  congratulate  him  on  his 
return.  He  asked  me  to  be  present.  The  ceremony  was  in  fhe 
large  church  to  the  south  of  the  palace.     I  was  up  in  the  balcony 

^  This  is  an  infitanoe  of  the  confusion  '  See  p.  172. 

caused  by  the  indiscrimmate  use  of  the  *  Palpa  is  a  tuwti  in  Nepal,  on  the 

word  Tatar  or  Tartar.  right  bank  of  the  Gandak  Kiver,  112 

'  He  was  invited  to  the  house  of  the  miles  from  Kathmandu. 

AmJ)as,  or  Chinese  residents  at  Lhasa,  *  Gesub  Rjpoiboch^  is  the  President 

and  there  strangled,  in  1749.  This  led  of  the  Council  of  Five,  and  head  of  the 

to  a  massacre  of  the  Chinese,  and  to  exccntivo  diurin^  the  minority  of  the 

concessions  fh>m  the  Peking  Govern-  Dalai  liama.    Jiimbochay^  Rimhoch^^  or 

ment.  RimpocJie,  means  **  precious*'*  or  "jewel." 


Ch.  X.]  A  M0NA8TI0  LIFE.  103 

which  looks  into  ii  The  church  was  fall  of  gylongs,  dressed  in 
yellow  caps  and  mantles,  and  seated  as  dose  to  one  another  as 
possible.  When  the  liana  came  in,  he  made  three  prostrations 
towards  the  altar  and  the  image  of  Gtod ;  after  which  he  ascended 
his  throne,  raised  very  lofty  by  steps.  We  had  a  great  deal  of 
praying,  and  some  dishes  of  tea  between  whiles.  Then  came  in  the 
Dalai  Lama's  yakil,  with  a  large  silver  platter  cnrionsly  embossed, 
and  covered  with  rice  divided  into  five  heaps;  and  he,  together 
with  three  others,  stood  with  it  before  the  Lama,  while  he  made  an 
harangue  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour  long.  I  was  in  pain  for  him,  as 
I  thought  once  or  twice  he  would  have  broken  down.  During 
all  this  time  the  Lama  nor  anybody  else  spoke  not  a  word.  When 
he  had  ended,  the  Lama  answered  hun  in  a  short  speech,  and 
taking  up  a  little  of  the  rice,  threw  it  towards  the  altar.  He  then 
received  the  Dalai  Lama's  letter,  together  with  four  or  fiye  small 
images,  as  many  books,  and  some  chanks  set  in  sQver,  all  which  he 
placed  before  him  on  his  throne.  Next  came  in  a  string  of  people 
carrying  gifte;  each  nuui  a  talent  of  rilyer,  a  piece  of  silk,  or 
a  bundle  of  tea.  When  all  the  Dalai  Lama's  presents  were 
finished,  G^sub's  were  brought,  in  the  same  style,  but  of  less  value. 
Altogether  there  were  about  a  hundred  talents  of  silver,  a  hundred 
and  twenty  pieces  of  silk,  and  sixty  bundles  of  tea.  There  were 
also  about  six  talents  of  silver,  ten  piec^  of  silk,  and  four  bundles 
of  tea  given  to  the  Ghanzo  Cusho.  While  all  this  was  passing,  a 
great  number  of  petitions  were,  according  to  the  custom,  thrown 
into  the  church,  each  being  tied  to  a  white  satin  handkerchief. 
The  gylongs  afterwards  handed  them  from  one  to  another  till  they 
reached  the  foot  of  the  throne,  where  they  were  collected,  and  then 
handed  up  to  the  Lama.  I  am  told  they  are  principally  desiring 
prayers  for  sick  people,  or  for  the  souls  of  those  lately  dead.  The 
Lama  read  over  one  or  two  of  them,  after  which  he  said  a  short 
prayer  by  himself,  and  was.  followed  by  another  by  the  gylongs. 
Then  everyone  departed. 

What  can  I  do  to  break  the  thread  of  these  tiresome  ceremonies? 
and  how  can  I  render  the  account  of  the  tedious  and  uniform  life  I 
spent  at  Teshu  Lumbo  agreeable?  It  was  monastic  to  the  greatest 
degree.  Nothing  but  priests;  nothing  from  morning  to  night  but 
the  chanting  of  prayers,  and  the  sound  of  cymbals  and  tabors. 


104  CHESS  AND  CHURCHGOING.  [Ch.  X. 

Every  attention  was  paid  to  me  by  the  Lama.  I  enjoyed  good  health, 
and  a  mind  free  from  care  and  anxiety.  Yet  the  employment  I 
found  in  attempting  to  acquire  the  language,  in  listening  to  the 
stories  of  fakirs  and  Kashmiris,  or  in  carrying  on  a  broken  con- 
yersation  with  the  crowds  of  Tibetans  who  used  to  frequent  my 
apartment,  yielded  an  entertainment  listless  and  insipid  when  cona- 
pared  with  the  pleasures  of  society ;  and  my  life  at  Teshu  Lumbo, 
when  stripped  of  the  little  unmarked  circumstances  which  amuse, 
one  knows  not  why,  and  seen  through  the  dull  medium  of  descrip- 
tion, must  appear  joyless  and  uninteresting. 

I  must  confess  the  pleasantest  hours  I  spent,  before  the  arrival 
of  the  Pyn  Gushos,  were  either  in  my  audiences  with  the  X^ma,  or 
in  playing  at  chess.  The  arrival  of  a  large  party  of  Ealmuks 
frimished  me  with  enough  of  combatants.  Their  method  of  play- 
ing differs  from  ours,  in  the  privilege  of  moving  two  steps  being 
confined  to  the  first  pawn  played  by  each  party ;  in  castling  and 
stalemate  being  unknown ;  and  in  the  game  being  reckoned  equal 
when  the  king  is  left  solus  without  a  piece  or  a  pawn  on  the  board. 
It  is  a  generous  principle.  In  my  first  trials  of  skill  with  the 
Tatars,  I  used  often  to  come  off  loser.  For  when  a  Siberian  sita 
down  to  chess,  he  gets  two  or  three  of  his  countrymen  to  assist 
him ;  they  lay  all  their  great  bare  heads  together  canvassing  and 
considting  about  every  move.  At  length  I  found  out  the  way  of 
managing  them,  and  encountered  them  with  their  own  weapons. 
If  I  could  not  get  a  Siberian  to  enter  the  lists  with  me  in  single 
combat,  I  engaged  an  equal  nxmiber  of  Tatars  on  my  side,  and  we 
used  to  beat  them  hollow.^ 

Soon  after  their  arrival  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  the  Lama  went  to 
visit  the  different  churches,  and  I  was  always  invited  to  be  present. 
A  small  tent  was  pitched  for  me  on  the  leads,  and  I  used  to  pass 
the  first  service,  which  generally  lasted  a  couple  of  hours,  in  drink- 
ing tea,  eating  boiled  mutton  and  sweetmeats,  and  playing  at  chess 
with  the  Ealmuks.  After  this,  I  was  called  to  prayers,  and  sat 
another  hour  or  two  on  a  cushion  next  to  the  Ghanzo  Gusho  in  a 
balcony  which  looked  into  the  church.  The  gylongs  are  all  seated, 
as  I  have  already  described;  the  prayers  are  mostly  chanted  in 

*  See  Turner,  p.  235,  who  says  that  the  rules  of  chess  in  Tibet  are  the  same 
as  ours. 


Oh.  X.]  THE  LAMA'S  RELATIONS,  105 

different,  and  often  not  nnmelodions,  yoices;  and.  the  seryice, 
except  on  particular  holidays,  is  condncted  with  great  decency. 
The  priests  here  are  much  better  taught  than  in  the  Deb  Bajah's 
country,  and  in  repeating  their  offices  have  no  occasion  for  the 
books  which  are  used  at  Tassisudon.  On  some  festivals,  however,  a 
man,  dressed  in  party-coloured  clothes,  and  a  cardinal's  cap  adorned 
with  death's-heads,  used  to  come  in,  and  with  many  strange 
gestures  hop  and  twist  about,  pouring  out  oblations  of  oil,  brandy, 
rice,  &c.,  and  holding  a  human  skull,  a  bell,  a  dagger,  or  an  axe 
in  his  hand.  Between  the  services,  the  Lama  sometimes  sent  for 
me  into  a  small  room  upon  the  leads.  During  my  stay  at  Teshu 
Lumbo,  I  suppose  I  spent  fifteen  or  twenty  days  in  this  manner 
at  church,  for  I  never  failed  to  go  when  I  was  asked. 

I  had  this  day  a  visit  firom  the  vakils  who  lately  came  from 
the  Dalai  Lama  and  Q^sub  Bimboch6.  One  of  them  was  a  priest, 
and  dressed  in  the  habit  of  his  order.  The  other  was  clad  in 
feminine  attire.  They  brought  me  some  small  barrels  and  boxes 
containing  presents  from  Gesub  Bimboche.  Upon  opening  them, 
they  were  found  to  consist  of  Chinese  distilled  whisky,  a  variety  of 
small  cakes  made  by  the  same  people,  a  kind  of  fish  less  than  a 
minnow,  dried,  and  some  dried  mushrooms,  which  they  said  came 
from  Peking.  The  whisky  was  stronger  and  better  than  that  of 
Tibet ;  the  bread  of  very  fine  flour,  but  not  half  baked  nor  even 
kneaded ;  the  fish  we  could  never  find  out  how  to  dress,  but  the 
mushrooms  served  greatly  to  improve  the  simple  and  unsavoury 
economy  of  our  table.  I  received  the  vakfls  in  all  due  form;  they 
stayed  with  me  about  an  hour,  and  left  me  little  satisfied  with  their 
manners  or  conversation. 

The  holidays  at  the  new  year  drew  nigh,  and  the  Lama's  re- 
lations came  from  different  parts  of  the  country  to  pay  their 
respects  to  him.  His  cousin  the  Teshu-tzay  Debo,  with  his  wife 
and  family ;  his  nieces,  the  two  annis  whom  I  saw  at  Teshu-tzay ; 
their  mother  Chum  Cusho ;  their  two  brothers,  the  Pyn  Gushos ; 
and  a  half-sister  named  Durjay  Paumo,  a  female  Imna,  who  is 
abbess  of  a  monastery  near  the  Piate  Lake,^  and  is  animated  by  the 
spirit  of  a  holy  lady  who  died  many  hundred  years  ago.  All  the 
ladies,  together  with  the  Debo  and  his  wife,  were  lodged  in  a  house 

*  Tho  Piato,  also  coUed  Pulti  Lake,  and  Yamdok-cho. 


106  NEW  T£AB  OEBEMONIES.  [Ob.  X. 

aitnated  in  a  groye  of  old  tieeB  under  the  palace^  and  the  Pyn 
OoahoB  in  a  Eabnnk  tent  adjoining  to  it  They  stayed  ahont  two 
months  at  Teahu  Lnmbo,  during  which  time  Mr.  Hamilton  cured 
Dnrjay  Pamno  and  Chum  Gnsho  of  complaints  which  they  had 
long  been  subject  to,  and  I  impioyed  my  connection  with  the  Pyn 
Gushos.  They  used  often  to  come  and  pass  two  or  three  honxs 
with  me.  I  sometimes  went  down  to  their  tent,  where  we  spent 
the  time  in  singing,  smoking,  drinking  ehang,"^  and  playing  upon 
the  flute  or  the  guitar,  at  which  the  eldest  brother  is  a  great  adept. 
We  made  little  excursions  into  the  country;  and  I  afterwards 
accompanied  them  to  their  estate  at  Binjaitzay,  and  spent  five  or 
six  cheery  days  at  their  castle.  The  eldest  broiler  is  about  twenty- 
seyen,  the  youngest  about  twenty-two. 

There  is  another  brother,  who  is  bred  up  to  the  church.  He  is 
a  lama  or  high-priest,'  but  is  not  yet  allowed  to  officiate  on  account 
of  his  youth.  He  used  also  to  come  often  to  see  me,  and  being 
yery  liyely  and  of  great  cariosity,  I  had  much  pleasure  in  showing 
him  anything ;  but  the  decormn  of  his  character  would  not  permit 
him  to  be  of  any  of  our  parties  with  his  brothers.  Lama  Alii  is 
about  sixteen:  short  for  his  age,  but  yery  fair  and  ruddy,  and 
blessed  with  that  fine  temper  which  distinguishes  all  Teshu 
Lama's  £Etmily. 

On  the  first  day  of  the  Tibetan  year,  eyerybody,  except  the 
Lama,  assembled  in  the  large  court  which  is  under  the  pakoe. 
All  the  galleries  which  ran  round  it  were  crowded  with  spectators. 
I  was  placed,  as  usual,  next  the  Ghanzo  Cusho  in  the  highest 
balcony.  The  exhibitions  began  with  dancing  by  merry  Andrews 
in  masks.  Then  a  nmnber  of  banners  were  set  up,  and  a  crowd  of 
gylongs,  dressed  in  yarious  coloured  habits,  ynth  their  cymbals 
and  tabors,  and  with  trumpets,  hautboys,  and  drmns,  marched  in 
procession  round  the  court.  Next,  about  twenty  gylongs,  in  yisors 
representing  the  heads  of  different,  mostly  wild,  animals,  and  in 
masquerade  dresses,  danced  with  antic  motions,  in  the  same  manner 
(but  better  performed)  as  I  had  seen  at  Tassisndon.  After  this^ 
the  figure  of  a  man,  chalked  upon  paper,  was  laid  upon  the  ground. 
Many  strange  ceremonies,  which  to  me  who  did  not  understand 

1  Chitng^  or  Ckhang,  any  fennented  liquor.    (See  '  Jae8chke*B  Dictionary.') 
>  Probably  Khanpo  or  Abbot,  head  of  a  monastery  or  VtAar. 


Ch.  X.]  FORTUNE-TELLING.  107 

them  appeared  whimsical,  were  performed  about  it;  and  a  great 
fire  being  kindled  in  a  corner  of  the  conrt,  it  was  at  length  held 
over  ity  and  being  formed  of  combustibles,  Tanished  with  much 
smoke  and  explosion.  I  was  told  it  was  a  figure  of  the  deyil,  bnt 
am  not  sufficiently  skilled  in  the  Tibetan  mythology  to  enter  into 
particulars.  One  thing  is  certain,  it  was  painted  white  with  regular 
features;  and  whether  or  no  it  was  intended  to  represent  that  beiag 
who  ''goes  to  and  from  upon  the  face  of  the  earth,  seeking  whom 
he  may  deyour,"  I  could  not  help  sometimes  fiemcying  that  it  much 
resembled  a  European. 

I  was  visited  by  the  yakil  of  Prithi  Narayan,^  the  Eajah  of  Nepal, 
who  presented  me  with  two  sheep,  some  rupees,  rice,  spices,  &o. 
The  conyensation  that  passed  I  have  elsewhere  put  down. 

A  good  many  Ealmuks  visited  Mr.  Hamilton.  He  thought 
they  were  come  to  apply  for  some  medicines.  Every  one  presented 
him  with  a  handkerchief,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country. 
They  told  him,  that  having  heard  of  his  great  sldll  in  the  occidt 
sciences,  they  were  come  to  have  their  fortunes  told,  and  at  the 
same  time  stretched  out  their  hands  for  that  purpose.  While  he 
was  hesitating  whether  to  carry  on  the  joke  a  little  feurther,  they 
desired  him  first  to  teU  what  had  happened  to  them  last  year,  and 
then  to  proceed  to  unfold  their  future  destiny.  This  would  go  fax 
to  prove  skill  in  fortune-telling,  and  was  a  test  Mr.  Hamilton 
was  unable  to  undergo.  I  have  often  myself  been  taken  for  a 
conjurer,  and  had  applications  of  the  same  kind  made  to  me,  but  it 
was  only  by  my  particidar  acquaintances.  I  dare  say  a  man  skilled 
in  palmistry  or  a  company  of  gipsies  would  have  a  world  of 
business  in  these  parts;  for  although  I  coidd  not  discover  any 
Shamans  in  the  country,  the  Tibetans  have  great  £uth  in  fortune- 
telling,  which  indeed  seems  to  be  common  to  all  mankind,  except 
our  European  philosophers,  who  are  too  wise  to  believe  in  any^ 
thing. 

The  Teshu-tzay  Debo  paid  me  a  visit,  bringing  two  tables 
covered  with  dried  fruits  and  sweetmeats.  I  offered  to  repay  the 
compliment,  but  he  never  sent  to  me,  and  I  did  not  wish  to  appear 
overzealous  in  cultivating  his  friendship,  as  it  wpuld  have  hurt  my 

^  Pertab  Singh  Sah  Deva,  of  the  Gorkhali  dynasty,  suoceeded  iu  1771  and 
reigned  in  Nepal  tintil  1775.    Prithi  Naroyan  was  his  father. 


108  TIBETAN  LADIES.  [Gb.  X. 

connection  with  the  Pyn  Goshos,  who  are  on  hut  indifferent  terms 
with  him  on  accomit  of  his  wife,  who  belongs  also  to  them.  It  is 
a  strange  story,  but  I  have  no  business  to  mention  it. 

We  spent  the  15th  of  February  with  the  Pyn  Cushos,  at  some  tents 
prepared  for  us  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  a  few  miles  from  Teshu  Lumbo. 
Shooting  at  a  mark,  running  races,  and  seeing  some  of  the  peasants 
dance  and  sing,  formed  our  entertainment,  for  there  is  no  hxmting 
or  killing  animals  so  near  the  palace.  Our  friends  had  prepared  a 
great  feast  for  us,  and  not  knowing  wliat  we  would  like,  took  care 
to  have  every  kind  of  flesh  and  fowl  they  oould  think  of.  After 
dinner,  tables  covered  with  fruits  were  brought  in,  and  they  insisted 
on  presenting  us  with  dresses  and  horses.  Having  drank  plenty  of 
tea  and  chatiff,  we  returned  to  the  palace.  I  rode  the  horse  the 
Pyn  Cushos  gave  me,  which  was  a  Ealmuk,  but  I  did  not  find  it 
so  tractable  as  these  horses  are  said  to  be.  I  had  enough  ado  to 
keep  it  from  nmning  away  with  me. 

I  waited  upon  the  ladies.  The  Chum  Cusho  is  a  cheerful 
widow  of  about  five-and-forty,  with  a  ruddy  complexion,  and  the 
remains  of  having  once  been  handsome.  In  her  younger  days  she 
was  a  nun,  and  her  husband,  the  Lama's  brother,  a  gylong ;  but  they 
happened  somehow  to  form  such  a  connection  together  as  put  an 
end  to  their  state  of  celibacy.  The  Lama  was  much  displeased 
with  his  brother,  and  would  not  admit  him  into  his  presence  for 
many  years.  After  his  death,  Chum  Cusho,  being  passed  the  hey- 
day of  life,  resumed  her  rehgious  character ;  and  having  taken  up 
her  vows  of  chastity,  laid  aside  all  her  ornaments,  dressed  herself 
in  a  homely  garb,  and  set  out  on  pilgrimages  to  visit  the  temples 
in  Nepal,  Palpa,  &c.^  The  Lama  has  since  behaved  to  her  and 
her  children  with  much  kindness.  Her  sons,  the  Pyn  Cushos,  and 
her  daughters,  the  annis,  were  present.  We  had  plenty  of  tea, 
mutton,  broth,  fruits,  &c.,  and  the  old  woman  was  as  merry  as  a 
cricket. 

The  mother  went  with  me  into  the  apartment  of  Durjay  Paumo, 
who  was  attired  in  a  gylong's  dress,  her  arms  bare  from  the  G^ouldeis, 

'  See,  in  Mr.  Hodgson's  account  of  145.)    The  red-vosted  and  oldest  sect 

the  Pravrajya-vrata,  the  statement  of  the  toleiUted  marriage.  The  yellow-vested, 

full  renunciation,  and  of  the  process  by  and  now  dominant  sect  in  Tibet,  does 

which  it  is  modified.  (*  Languages  and  not  tolerate  it. 
Religion  of  Nepal  and  Tibet,'  pp.  139- 


Ob.  X.]      QEKEROUS  FEELING  OF  THE  LAMA'S  FAMILY.  109 

and  Bittmg  cross-legged  upon  a  low  cushion.  She  is  also  the 
danghter  of  the  Lama's  brother,  but  by  a  different  wife.  She  is 
about  seven-and-twenty,  with  small  Chinese  features,  delicate, 
though  not  regular,  fine  eyes  and  teeth ;  her  complexion  fair,  but 
wan  and  sickly ;  and  an  expression  of  languor  and  melancholy  in 
her  countenance,  which  I  believe  is  occasioned  by  the  joyless  life 
that  she  leads.  She  wears  her  hair,  a  priyilege  granted  to  no  other 
vestal  I  have  seen ;  it  is  combed  heuck  without  any  ornaments,  and 
£Etlls  in  tresses  upon  her  shoulders.  Her  chatva,  like  the  Lama's,  is 
supposed  to  convey  a  blessing,  and  I  did  not  M  to  receive  it.  After 
xnaking  my  presents  and  obeisances,  I  kneeled  down,  and  stretching 
out  her  arm,  which  is  equal  to  '^  the  finest  lady  in  the  land,"  she 
laid  her  hand  upon  my  head.  The  entertainment  was  the  same  as 
at  the  mother's.  Durjay  Paumo  spoke  little,  and  but  for  the  old 
woman,  who  was  present,  the  conversation  would  have  been  full  of 
breaks.  I  never  visited  her  but  this  time.  Mr.  Hamilton  used  to 
be  there  ahnost  every  day. 

The  two  nuns  are  as  merry  and  good-humoured  as  their  mother. 
The  eldest,  who  is  about  seven  or  eight  and  twenty,  is  dark  com- 
plexioned  and  hard  featured.  The  youngest  is  about  nineteen; 
remarkably  fair  and  ruddy.  Their  dress  is  the  same  as  that  of  the 
gylongs.  The  head  shaven,  the  arms  bare,  a  red  frieze  jacket, 
reaching  a  little  below  the  waist,  a  piece  of  coarse  red  woollen  doth 
thrown  over  their  shoidders,  a  petticoat  of  red  serge  falling  a  little 
below  the  knee,  and  red  woollen  hose  soled  with  leather,  and  gartered 
under  the  knee.  They,  as  well  as  the  priests,  are  not  allowed  to 
wear  any  kind  of  ornament,  except  it  be  a  few  beads  of  coral 
strung  with  their  rosaries. 

I  may  be  excused,  perhaps,  in  mentioning  a  circumstance, 
which,  although  it  does  not  properly  belong  to  these  memoranda, 
I  cannot,  injustice  to  my  Tibetan  friends,  omit.  From  the  civilities 
which  Teshu  Lama  and  everybody  about  him  had  shown  me,  as  well 
as  from  my  desire  of  conciliating  the  good-will  of  the  Tibetans, 
whose  country  I  believe  no  Englishman  had  ever  visited  before,  I 
resolved  to  make  some  presents  to  the  Lama's  relations;  and 
accordingly  purchased  coral  beads,  which  are  much  valued  in  this 
part  of  the  world.  I  carried  them  with  me  on  my  visit  to  the 
Chum  Cusho  and  her  daughters,  and  had  much  ado  to  procure 


110 


FAMILIAR  INTERCOURSE 


[Ch.  X, 


their  aooeptanoe  of  them.  The  Pyn  Cnshoe  were  still  more  difficnlt, 
and  I  beUeye  I  spent  an  hour  in  tiieir  tent  before  I  oonld  get  them 
to  agree  to  take  my  beads.  '^  Yon,"  said  they,  "  are  come  from  a 
&r  oonntry ;  it  is  onr  business  to  render  your  stay  agreeable ;  why 
shotdd  you  make  ns  presents  ?"  This  drcnmstance  serves  to  set 
the  character  of  the  Tibetans  in  a  stronger  and  more  fityonrable 
light  than  if  I  were  to  write  yolumes  upon  the  subject. 

The  Sokpo^  (Ealmuk)  Lama  came  to  yiait  ma  He  is  one  of 
Taranath*s^  priests,  and  receiyes  the  title  of  Lama,  I  belieye,  only  by 
courtesy.  He  is  a  natiye  of  ladak,  but  has  resided  long  in  Siberia ; 
18  a  yery  pleasant  and  entertaining  man,  and  brought  me  a  pot  full 
of  tea,  and  a  handkerchief.  I  wanted  to  return  his  yisit,  but  be 
excused  himself  on  account  of  his  attendance  on  Teshn  Lama. 
He  remained  some  time  after  the  Ealmuk's  departure  for  Lhasa, 
and  paid  me  another  yisit  before  he  set  out. 

About  this  time  I  undertook  a  work  for  the  lAma  which  gaye 
me  a  good  deal  of  employment  and  a  good  deal  of  trouhla  It  was 
an  account  of  Europe,  and  I  confess  I  found  it  a  yery  difficult  task, 
for  I  had  to  fismcy  myself  a  Tibetan,  and  then  put  down  the 
things  which  I  imagined  would  strike  him.  I  had  abundance  of 
difficulty  also  in  translating  it  into  the  Tibet  language,  being 
obliged  to  use  an  interpreter,  a  kind  of  being  who  is  generally  more 
apt  to  follow  out  roundly  his  own  ideas  than  to  keep  strictly  to 
yours.  I  got  through  France,  England,  and  such  other  countries 
as  I  haye  seen ;  but  haying  no  books  to  assist  me,  I  was  obliged  to 
leaye  it  unfinished.  As  it  was>  it  afforded  a  great  feast  to  the 
Lama's  insatiable  curiosity.^ 

As  Mr.  Hamilton  was  returning  from  Durjay  Paumo's,  he  saw  a 
crowd  of  people,  in  the  midst  of  which  a  young  gylong  was  being 


>  The  Sokpo  occupy  the  eastern  half 
of  Northern  Tibet.  The  Horpo,  who 
are  Turks,  the  western  half.  (See 
pp.  65-82,  of  Hodgson's  *  Languages  of 
Kepal  and  Tibet') 

*  There  are  three  lamas  over  the 
gelvpka,  or  yellow  sect,  of  Tibetan 
Buddhists,  called  Dalai,  Teshu,  and 
Taranath.  The  Taranath  Lama  resides 
in  the  Khalka  country  of  Mongolia. 
Turner  has  Kharka,  p.  315. 


'  A  oopy  of  this  curious  and  interest- 
ing document  lias  been  preserved.  Bir. 
Bogle  describes  Europe  as  it  was  in 
1770 :  the  inns  and  stage-coaches,  the 
highwaymen,  the  duels,  the  parliaments 
of  France,  and  other  Old  World  insti- 
tutions. Doubtless  this  dooomeat  is 
still  studied  in  Tibet,  and  is  the  sonrcts 
whence  the  statesmen  of  that  isoLited 
region  obtain  their  ideas  of  England 
and  Europe. 


Cb.  X.3  with  the  LAMA'S  FAHILT.  Ill 

chastised  for  neglecidng  his  lesson.  He  was  extended  upon  the 
gronnd  and  held  down  by  four  people,  while  a  fifth  was  bastinading 
him.  Let  no  one  who  has  been  at  a  public  school  in  Europe  cry 
out  against  the  Tibetans  for  cruelty. 

The  Pyn  Cnshos  used  often  to  come  and  see  me.  To-day  their 
sisters,  the  nuns,  came  along  with  them.  They  asked  me  to  show 
them  my  Fringy  dress,^  and  we  prevailed  on  the  youngest  sister  to 
put  on  my  coat.  We  had  a  great  deal  of  laughing  and  merriment. 
But  who  can  repeat  the  little  unimportant  trifles  which  gladden 
conyersation  and  serve  to  while  away  the  time  ? 

The  priest,  who  every  morning  came  to  me  with  boiled  rice  and 
tea  from  the  Lama,  was  called  Debo  Dinji  Sampu.  He  was  about 
fifty,  marked  vnth  the  smallpox,  his  eye  mild  and  candid,  and  him- 
self of  great  singleness  of  mind  and  simplicity.  He  came  to  understand 
my  imperfect  attempts  to  speak  the  Tibet  language  tolerably  well, 
and  we  used  to  haye  long  chats  together.  I  grew  very  fond  of 
him,  and  he,  which  showed  his  sagacity,  took  a  great  liking  to  me. 
He  always  kept  a  box  of  excellent  snufif,  and  was  not  niggardly  in 
offering  a  pinch  of  it.  But  vrith  all  Debo  Dinji's  good  qualities, 
he  was  as  averse  to  washing  his  hands  and  face  as  the  rest  of 
his  countrymen.  He  happened  one  morning  to  come  in  while  I 
was  shaving,  and  I  prevailed  upon  him  for  once  to  scrub  himself 
with  the  help  of  soap  and  water.  I  gave  him  a  new  complexion,  and 
he  seemed  to  view  himself  in  my  shaving  glass  vrith  some  satisfac- 
tion. But  he  wraa  exposed  to  so  much  ridicule  from  his  acquaint- 
ances, that  I  never  could  get  him  to  repeat  the  experiment.' 

'  Fringy  and  Feringbi  (Frank)  is  child  in  order  to  judge  of  his  oom- 

the   common   Asiatic   eqniTalent   for  plexion,  which  seemed  singnlarly  clear 

European.  and  white.     The  chUd  struggled  so 

*  Mr.  Hodgson,  in  Nepal,  once  bribed  violently  as  nearly  to  have  a  fft. 
a  Tibetan  mother  to  let  him  wash  her 


112  JOURNEY  WITH  THE  PYN  CUSHOS.  [Oh.  XI. 


CHAPTER  XL 

A  VISIT  TO  A  TIBETAN  COUNTRY  SEAT. 

On  the  11th  of  March,  1775/  the  Pyn  Cushos  were  to  set  out  for  their 
oonntry  seat,  aboat  two  days'  journey  from  Teahn  Lmnbo,  and  asked 
me  to  accompany  them.  I  was  glad  of  an  opportunity  of  yarying 
the  insipid  scene,  and  applied  for  the  Lama  s  permission,  which  he 
readily  granted  me.  We  set  out  about  midday.  I  carried  with  me 
only  one  Hindustani  servant,  resolving  to  live  like  a  Tibetan.  The 
Pyn  CushoB  had  about  a  dozen  servants.  We  arrived  towards 
evening  at  a  village,  in  the  valley  through  which  runs  the  Tsanpo, 
and  took  up  our  quarters  in  the  head  man's  house.  After  drinking 
tea,  dinner  was  brought  in.  A  cup  of  hashed  mutton,  not  unlike 
a  greasy  curry,  another  of  boiled  rice,  a  third  of  raw  beef  beat  into 
a  jelly,  and  highly  seasoned  with  salt,  turmeric,  and  other  spices. 
It  is  far  from  unsavoury,  when  one  can  get  the  better  of  European 
prejudices.  There  were  also  a  joint  of  mutton  well  boiled,  and 
another  just  scorched  on  the  outside  but  raw  within.  It  require 
no  conjuring  to  find  out  on  which  I  made  my  dinner.  There  is 
no  such  thing  as  two  people  cutting  from  the  same  joint  of  meat, 
or  helping  themselves  from  the  same  plate,  so  that  a  separate  set 
of  the  above  dishes  was  served  up  to  each.  After  this  we  had 
fruits  and  sweetmeats,  and,  the  Pyn  Cushos  having  lent  me  a 
pipe,  we  sat  down  to  smoka  We  then  adjourned  to  a  small 
garden,  to  shoot  arrows.  A  tent  was  pitched  with  a  black  cloth  at 
some  distance.  Such  as  hit  the  bull's-eye  had  a  handkerchief  giveai 
them.  I  also  received  one,  though  unmeritedly.  Night  came  on. 
We  returned  and  sat  down  about  a  goodly  fire,  new  kindled  in  the 
middle  of  the  room,  spending  a  couple  of  hours  in  singing,  drinking 
chang,  playi&g  upon  the  guitar,  or  at  chess.  Mr.  Hamilton  and  I 
then  retired  to  another  apartment,  where  a  supper  was  prepared  for 
us,  as  if  we  had  not  tasted  meat  that  day ;  but  afraid  that  vre 

>  The  day  Nunoomar  brought  his  aocusations  against  the  Goyemor-Cteneral. 


Ch.  XI.]  RIDE  TO  ETNJAITZAY.  113 

would  not  relish  Tibetan  victnalB,  the  Pyn  Gnshos  had  ordered 
their  servants  to  ask  our  people  about  our  nsnal  food,  and  had 
prepared  some  eggs,  fish,  and  roasted  fowls. 

Next  morning  we  got  np  before  day,  and  found  the  Pyn  Gnshos 
ready  to  sit  down  to  breakfast,  upon  tea  and  cold  mutton.  As  I  can 
always  eat  at  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night,  I  did  not  fail  to  partake 
with  them.  After  this  we  had  the  ceremony  of  the  master  of  the 
house  presenting  us  with  fruits,  sweetmeats,  and  carcasses,  and 
haying  settled  all  this  in  due  form,  we  set  out  on  our  journey. 
Haying  ridden  about  an  hour  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  Tsanpu. 
The  boats  were  all  on  the  other  side,  and  the  riyer  coyered  with 
shoals  of  snow-mixed  ice.  We  had  to  wait  here  a  couple  of  hours. 
There  was  a  tent  with  tea  prepared  for  us,  and  I  spent  part  of 
the  time  in  sliding  on  the  ice,  with  which  a  neighbouring  pool  of 
water  was  coyered.  As  soon  as  we  were  ferried  oyer,  we  mounted 
our  horses  and  rode  cheerily  np  the  sandy  bank  of  the  Tsanpu, 
stopping  twice  at  tents  prepared  for  us,  to  refresh  onrselyes  with  tea 
and  mutton.  In  the  afternoon  we  came  to  the  foot  of  a  mountain 
coyered  with  red  ochre,  and  dedicated  to  some  wrathful  deity.  Here 
the  Pyn  Gnshos  set  up  the  branch  of  a  tree,  with  a  white  handker- 
chief fastened  to  it.  The  Tsanpu  at  this  place  forms  a  large  sheet 
of  water  immediately  below  the  road.  You  haye  a  yiew  of  its  wind- 
ings for  a  great  way  up  and  down,  and  the  prospect  would  be  yery 
fine  if  there  was  anything  besides  bleak  bare  hills  to  look  at.  The 
winds  in  this  yalley  are  yery  strong,  often  carrying  up  the  dust  in 
columns  to  a  great  height,  or  forming  it  into  hills  of  sand.  Turn- 
ing to  the  right  we  entered  the  yalley  where  the  Pyn  Gushos'  estate 
is  situated,  and  stopped  at  some  tents  set  up  by  a  seryant  of  Gesub 
Bimboche,  who  has  the  care  of  a  house  belonging  to  that  minister.^ 
Among  the  rest  of  our  entertainment  were  excellent  mutton  puffs, 
a  dish  which  I  had  not  before  seen.  Ascending  the  yalley  we 
azriyed  at  Binjaitzay  Gastle  about  an  hour  after  it  was  dark,  haying, 
by  our  stoppings  and  tea  drinkings,  taken  a  complete  day  to  per- 
fonn  a  journey  which  might  easily  be  done  in  six  hours. 

■  Gesab  Bimboohtf  is  the  vicegerent  Dbarma  Rajah  (or  Lnma  Rimboohtf) 

of  the  divine  Dalai  Lama,  who  theo-  represent    the   same   two   offices    in 

retically  does  not  meddle  with  tern-  Bhutan, 
poral  matters.     The  Deb  Rajah  and 


114  HUNTING  THE  MUSK  DEER.  [Ch.  XI. 

I  was  lodged  in  the  room  of  the  church,  which  is  generally  the 
best  in  the  house.  As  the  Pyn  Cashes,  particularly  the  youngest, 
are  keen  sportsmen,  it  was  hung  round  with  matchlocks,  bows  and 
arrows,  swords,  shot-bags,  &c.,  and  one  part  of  the  wall  was  covert 
with  Chinese  paper-hangings.  After  presenting  me  with  loads  of 
fruit,  they  brought  in  supper,  which  made  the  sixth  time  that  I  had 
seen  meat  that  day. 

During  the  five  or  six  days  we  spent  at  Sinjaitzay,  the  Pyn 
Cushos  entertained  us  in  the  most  hospitable  manner,  omitting 
nothing  that  could  contribute  to  our  amusement  They  made 
parties  on  horseback,  shooting  matches  with  bows  and  matchlocks ; 
they  canght  and  bagged  hares,  for  us  to  see  them  retaken  by  the 
greyhounds ;  partridges  and  other  game  for  us  to  eat,  and  one  day 
we  went  out  with  the  nets  to  catch  musk  goats.^  This  req[iure8  a 
more  particular  description. 

After  riding  about  three  miles  from  Binjaitzay,  we  stopped  at  a 
tent  and  sat  there  two  hours  whil^  the  servants  went  up  the  hills  to 
reconnoitre.  I  confess  I  did  not  much  conceit  this  method  of  hunting 
in  a  tent,  and  formed  no  &yourable^esage  of  our  sport.  At  length 
I  prevailed  on  the  younger  brother  to  set  out,  and  letting  loose  the 
dogs  we  rode  along  the  sides  of  the  hills,  but  without  seeing  any- 
thing except  a  covey  of  partridges ;  and  although  the  Pyn  Cushos 
make  no  bones  of  shooting  when  by  themselves,  they  were  afraid 
that  some  of  the  Lama's  people  who  accompanied  me  might  mention 
it  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  so  get  them  into  a  scrape. 

At  length,  when  we  were  about  to  return,  one  of  the  servants 
came  with  the  news  of  having  found  a  musk  goat  asleep  in  a 
quarry.  The  dogs  were  immediately  tied  up.  The  people  with  the 
toils  went  along  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  above  the  place  where 
the  game  lay,  while  we  followed  slowly  after.  The  toils  are  made 
of  cords,  formed  into  a  number  of  nooses  hung  close  to  one  another, 
on  a  rope  which  is  extended  at  about  three  feet  from  the  ground, 
and  supported  by  rods  stuck  in  the  earth  at  intervals  of  about  ten 
or  twelve  feet.  There  is  another  row  of  nooses  similar  to  tliis 
placed  parallel  to  it,  and  at  the  distance  of  about  five  feet.  When 
these  double  toils  were  set  atl  round  one  side  of  the  quarry,  and  at 
about  a  gunshot  from  it,  we  spread  ourselves,  encircled  the  other 

1  Moschus  moschifera.    The  muBk  deer  of  EurnpeftnB,  but  more  like  an  antelope. 


Oh.  XI.]  HUNTING  THE  MUSK  DEER.  115 

side,  and  with  shouts  and  stones  at  length  awakened  the  mnsk  from 
his  profonnd  sleep.  As  soon  as  he  got  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
he  houndingly  made  towards  the  toils,  and  haying  twice  attempted 
to  leap  oyer  them,  thrust  his  head  into  one  of  the  nooses.^  When 
we  came  up  to  him  he  was  quite  breathless  with  struggling,  and  all 
the  skin,  which  is  yery  tender,  was  torn  off  his  neck  with  the  cord. 
We  carried  him  home  and  put  him  into  a  closet  adjoining  to  my 
room ;  but  he  died  before  morning. 

The  musk  is  about  the  size  of  an  antelope,  but  without  any 
horns.  The  bag  of  perfume  for  which  it  is  famous  is  produced  only 
in  the  male,  who  is  also  of  a  colour  more  dark  than  the  female,  and 
distinguished  by  two  tusks  which  fall  perpendicularly  from  his 
upper  jaw.  The  hair  is  speckled  yellow  and  brown  at  the  point, 
and  resembles  the  fledges  of  a  quill  almost  as  much  as  hair.  It  has 
an  amazing  strong  attractiye  quality,  like  amber,  and  sticks  to  your 
fingers  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  shake  it  off.  The  skins  of  the  musks 
which  I  haye  seen  in  the  Deb  Bajah  s  country  are  much  darker  than 
those  in  Tibet ;  they  approach  almost  to  black.  The  common  way  of 
killing  the  musk  is  by  matchlocks  and  bows  and  arrows.  It  is  sadly 
persecuted  by  the  peasants  about  the  beginning  of  winter,  and 
numbers  of  them  seek  protection  on  the  priyileged  mountains 
behind  Teshu  Lumbo.^ 

'  Colonel  Markbam  (p.  95)  says  that  black  on  the  hind  quarters.    The  legs 

snarmg  is  by  far  the  most  oommon  are  long  and  slender,  toes  long  and 

method  practised  fur  the  capture  of  pointed.    The  fur  is  composed  of  thick 

mnsk  deer  in  Ladak.    A  fence,  about  spiral  hairs,  not  unlike  miniature  por- 

3  feet  high,  is  made,  generally  along  cupine  quills,  brittle,  and  very  thickly 

some  ridge,  and  often  upwards  of  a  set.    The  musk  is  only  found  in  adult 

mile  in  length.    Openings  for  the  deer  males.     The  pod  is  neur  the  navel, 

to  pass  through  are  left  every  10  or  15  between  the  flesh  and  skin,  and  is 

yards,  and  in  each  a  strong  hempen  composed  of  several  layers  of  thin  skin 

snare  is  placed,  tied  to  a  long  stick.  in  which  the  musk  is  confined.    The 

•  There  is  an  excellent  account  of  musk  itself  is  in  grains,  or  powder,  of 
the  mask  deer  in  Colonel  Fred.  Mark-  a  dark  reddish-brown  colour ;  and  an 
ham's 'Journal  of  Sporting  Adventures  ounce  is  the  average  yield  of  a  full- 
in  Ladak,  Tibet,  and  Kashmir*  (Bent-  grown  animal.  Tlie  musk  deer  is  found 
ley,  1854),  p.  84.  The  musk  deer  is  all  over  the  Himalayan  chains,  but 
rather  more  than  3  feet  long,  and  stands  generally  at  elevations  at  or  above 
nearly  2  feet  high  at  the  shoulders.  The  8000  feet— generally  in  forests,  and  is 
head  is  small,  the  ears  long  and  erect,  of  solitary  and  retired  habits.  In  many 
The  male  has  a  tusk  depending  from  respects  they  are  not  unlike  hares  in 
each  upper  jaw  about  8  inches  long.  habits  and  economy;  and  they  make 
The  general  colour  is  a  dark  speckled  forms  in  the  same  manner, 
brownish -grey,    deepening  to  nearly 

I  2 


116  BETURN  TO  TE8HU  LUMBO.  [Ch.  XL 

The  partridges  are  considerably  smaller  than  those  in  England. 
Begarding  their  taste  I  cannot  say  anything,  for  the  cook  allowed 
three,  which  Mr.  Hamilton  one  day  shot,  to  fly  away  some  hours 
after  they  were  dead;  and  those  which  the  Pyn  Cnshos  now 
caught  for  me  were  so  tame,  it  would  have  been  a  sin  to  kill  them ; 
so  I  set  them  at  liberty,  which  was  considered  by  the  Lama's 
servants  to  be  a  very  pious  action.  As  to  the  Pyn  Cushos,  they  are 
little  scrupulous  about  this  or  any  yenial  sin,  and,  as  long  as  it  comes 
not  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Lama,  will  do  anything  you  like. 

The  Pyn  Goshos  keep  a  large  parcel  of  all  kinds  of  dogs  at 
Binjaitzay,  and  some  of  them,  parfcicularly  Shamo,  are  great 
fitvourites.  There  is  also  a  wolf  ^  chained  at  the  foot  of  the  stair, 
a  tiger  cat  &stened  to  a  stone  on  the  leads,  besides  other  animals. 

After  supper  everyone  retired  to  his  room  and  went  to  bed, 
thinking  no  evil.  But  about  the  middle  of  the  night  we  were 
alarmed  with  a  dreadful  barking  and  howling  among  the  dogs, 
which  soon  brought  all  the  family  together  upon  the  leads;  Mr. 
Hamilton  and  I  in  our  shirts,  the  rest  with  only  a  blanket  wrapped 
round  them,  it  being  the  custom  for  the  Tibetans,  both  men  and 
women,  to  sleep  naked.  There  was  no  light  but  starlight;  the 
noises  still  continued.  Some  said  it  was  thieves ;  but  as  I  could 
not  think  anybody  would  be  so  wicked  as  attempt  to  rob  the  Lama's 
family,  I  had  nothing  for  it  but  to  conclude  it  was  the  devil.  Li 
the  meantime  a  most  extraordinary  yelling  began  just  under  our 
nose,  which  being  totally  different  firom  anything  I  had  ever  heard, 
would  certainly  have  served  to  confirm  my  notion,  had  not  the 
whole  family,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  burst  out  into  a  fit  of 
laughing ;  and,  Paima  having  managed  to  light  a  lamp  with  his 
tinder-box,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  Mr.  Wolf,  whose  breaking 
loose  had  occasioned  all  this  disturbance,  pinned  down  by  the  tiger 
cat,  with  her  claws  fixed  in  his  dieeks.  And  so,  having  remanded 
him  into  confinement,  each  of  our  motley  group,  after  looking  a 
little  at  one  another,  returned  laughing  to  bed. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  took  leave  of  our  hosts,  set  out  from 
Binjaitzay,  and  reached  Teshu  Lumbo  at  night,  by  excusing  myself 
from  stopping  to  drink  tea  at  various  places,  and  pushing  througli 
a  great  whirlwind  of  dust  towards  the  end  of  our  journey.     At 

*  Luptts  laniger  (Hodgson), 


Ch.  XL]  THE  GOVERNOR  OF  JANGLAOHfi.  117 

night  the  palace  and  all  the  town  were  illuminated,  in  honour  of 
the  last  Teshn  Lama.  It  is  reckoned  very  unlucky  if  the  lamps 
should  be  blown  out,  and  yet  they  were  blown  out  upon  this 
occasion.  However,  the  sons  of  men  can  easily  find  salvos  for  any- 
thing. A  few  extraordinary  prayers,  or  one  or  two  solemnities, 
avert  the  evil. 

In  the  morning  my  friend  Debo  Dinji  Sampu  came  to  see  me. 
He  looked  more  thoughtfal  than  usual ;  and  after  we  had  drank  a 
dish  of  tea  and  exchanged  a  pinch  of  snuff,  he  told  me  the  cause 
of  it — that  he  was  appointed  Governor  of  Janglach6,^  a  castle  of 
some  consequence,  about  three  days  higher  up  the  Tsanpu.  I  con- 
gratulated him  on  his  good  fortune ;  but  it  would  not  do.  He  said 
to  me :  "  I  know  that  many  people  would  solicit  this  office,  the 
obtaining  of  which  gives  me  so  much  uneasiness ;  but  I  have  from 
my  youth  continued  with  the  Lama.  I  have  never  been  employed 
on  any  public  business ;  I  am  not  used  to  writing,  and  have  had  no 
practice  in  accounts.  I  shall  have  a  vast  deal  to  do  in  my  new 
employment ;  I  know  not  well  how  to  set  about  it,  and  am  afraid 
of  getting  into  a  scrape."  As  the  Christian  virtue  of  humble- 
mindednees  is  so  rare,  I  could  not  help  being  pleased  to  meet  with 
it  in  a  Pagan.  What  I  said  to  encourage  Debo  Dinji  produced, 
as  often  happens,  no  effect;  and  he  wanted  me  to  apply  to  the 
Lama  that  he  might  accompany  me,  at  least  to  Tassisudon ;  but  he 
would  not  allow  me  to  mention  it  as  his  desire,  and  I  could  not 
do  it  else.  Soon  after  he  set  out  for  his  government,  having  first 
taken  leave  of  me,  and  presented  me  with  some  purses  of  gold  dust 
and  a  white  handkerchief  at  parting.  I  felt  not  the  same  heart's 
liking  for  the  priest  who  succeeded  to  the  honour  of  bringing  me 
rice  and  tea  in  the  morning,  as  I  had  for  Debo  Dinji.  He  after- 
wards wSB  sent  by  the  Lama  to  attend  me  to  Tassisudon,  and  fell  a 
sacrifice  to  a  strange  climate. 

Some  Chinese  merchants  came  to  Teshu  Lumbo  to  buy  lamb 
skins,  and  a  Kashmiri  brought  one  of  them  to  see  me.  From  his 
manners  I  thought  he  must  be  a  little  man.  His  cap  was  &ucei 
with  black  lamb  skins ;  but  as  I  understood  the  Lama  did  not  wish 

>  TcluLiiglAse,  on  D'Anville's  map.  70  miles  west  of  Teshu  Lnmbo.  It 
Dziang-lodz^  of  Klaproth.  It  is  on  was  visited  by  Colonel  Montgomerie's 
the  sonth  side  of  the  Tsanpu,  about      Pundit  in  1865. 


118  DEPARTURE  FROM  TESHU  LUMBO.  [Ch.  XI. 

me  to  have  any  connection  with  him,  I  sent  him  away.     I  did  not 
find  him  near  80  white  as  I  expected. 

I  was  invited  to  pass  the  afternoon  at  the  Sopon  Chmnbo's, 
where  I  was  treated  with  all  the  things  I  have  so  often  repeated, 
set  off  with  the  most  easy  and  entertaining  conversation.  The 
manners  of  the  Tihetans  are  in  general  very  engaging ;  but  Sopon 
Ghmnbo,  by  travelling  through  Tatary  and  China,  and  by  a  long 
residence  at  the  Court  of  Peking,  has  improved  upon  them 

I  now  seldom  stirred  out  of  my  room,  being  employed  from 
morning  to  night  in  translating  some  papers  which  the  Itfuna  gave 
me  about  Tibet. 

The  severity  of  the  winter  was  now  passed;  the  ice  melted 
&8ter  than  it  froze ;  the  weather  in  the  heat  of  the  day  was  very 
comfortable,  and  I  began  to  turn  my  views  towards  Bengal. 

The  Teshu-tzay  Eilladar's  fieunily  had  left  us,  and  Durjay  Paumo 
had  set  out  for  her  convent.  The  Pyn  Gushos  were  returned  to 
Teshu  Lumbo,  but  it  was  only  to  escort  their  mother  and  sisters 
to  Teshu-tzay.  I  this  day  took  leave  of  Chum  Cusho  and  the  two 
nuns,  not  without  many  blessings  and  much  advice  from  the  old 
woman,  and  many  promises  to  the  nuns  of  writing  to  them  and 
sending  them  lories  and  looking-glasses.  My  parting  with  the  Pyn 
Oushos  was  a  harder  task.  I  never  could  reconcile  myself  to  the 
thoughts  of  a  last  &rewell,  and  however  anxious  I  was  to  return  to 
Bengal  and  to  the  world,  I  could  not  take  leave  of  my  Tibetan 
friends  with  indifference,  and  would  now  find  little  satisfiaction  in 
repeating  the  circumstances  of  it.^ 

The  last  days  of  my  stay  at  Teshu  Lumbo  were  taken  up  with 
these  ceremonies;  all  my  acquaintances  in  the  palace  coming  to 
me  with  pots  of  tea,  little  presents,  kind  looks,  and  kind  ex- 
pressions. 

»  Dr.  Hamilton,  in  a  letter  to  Mr.  (or  Pung)  Cushos  had  recently  died. 

Bogle,  dated  at  Tassisudon  on  May  within  a  few  daya  of  each  other,  just 

30,  1776,  announced   the  melancholy  «fter  having  finished  a  long  letter  to 

news  that  hia  young   hosts  the  Pyn  their  former  guest. 


Ch.  XII.]  PRODUCE.    FOOD.  119 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  TIBET. 

FACE  OF  THE  OOUNTBT  —  FBODUOB  —  FOOD  —  DRESS  OF  THE  PEOPLE  —  PBIEST8 
AND  NUNS  —  HORSES  AND  OTHER  ANIMALS — HOUSES — DISPOSAL  OF  DEAD 
BODIES  —  POLYANDRY. 

This  country,  from  Ladak  to  the  frontier  of  China,  is  called  by  the 
natives  Pn,^  pronounced  as  the  French  do  Dominas,  or  as  the  Scotch 
do  the  Greek  upsHon.  It  is  fall  of  hills :  they  might  be  called 
mountains  if  they  were  not  so  near  to  those  in  the  Deb  Bajah's 
kingdom ;  however,  one  has  few  of  them  to  climb,  the  road  lead- 
ing through  the  valleys.  Save  here  ^d  there  a  monastery  or  a 
nunnery,  they  are  left  to  the  musk  goats  and  other  wild  animals. 
The  country  is  bare,  stony,  and  unsheltered ;  hardly  a  tree  is  to  be 
seen,  except  in  the  neighbourhood  of  villages,  and  even  there  in  no 
great  numbers.  On  the  road  from  Pari-jong  there  are  a  great 
many  ruinous  houses,  occasioned  by  a  war  with  the  Bhutanese  about 
sixty  years  ago. 

The  valleys  produce  wheat  and  barley,  and  peas.  The  first  are 
ground  by  water-mills  of  a  very  simple  construction;  the  last  is 
food  only  for  cattle.  The  peasants  and  the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants 
live  on  flour  made  into  dough,  or  baked  with  oil  produced  in  the 
country;  on  mutton  or  the  flesh  of  the  cow-tailed  cattle.  The 
higher  class  of  people  eat  rice  brought  from  the  Deb  Rajah's 
country,  unleavened  bread  made  into  twisted  rolls  with  butter, 
mutton  soup  thickened  with  pounded  rice,  mutton  boiled  in  joints 
or  cut  in  pieces;  beef,  not  much;  sweetmeats  and  fruits  brought 
from  China  and  Kashmir.  As  to  pork,  so  much  used  for  food  in 
the  neighbouring  kingdom,  there  are  few  swine  in  the  country. 
All  the  world  drink  tea  made  in  the  same  manner  as  in  Tatary. 


3 


*  Feu,  and  the  people  Peu-pa ;  but  is  scanty,  dear,  and  bad,  and  hence  the 

more  commonly  Bod  and  Bod-pa,  certainty  of  a  fine  market  for  India 

'  That  is,  the  brick  tea  of  commerce,  tea,   could   the  trade  prohibition   be 

so  made  up  for  transport.    The  supply  annulled. 


120  DBESS  OP  THE  PEOPLE.  LCh.  XII. 

Among  the  great  people  there  is  a  drmking  of  tea  from  morning  till 
night.  The  lower  class  of  people  and  the  laymen  will  smoke 
eighty  or  a  hmidred  pipes  of  tohacco  in  a  day :  ^  and  they  hold  this 
bat  a  small  quantity  indeed.  They  also  drink  brandy  distilled 
from  wheat,  though  seldom  to  excess.  The  priests  are  forbidden 
the  use  of  both.  They  often  tr^pass,  however,  in  smoking,  not  in 
drinking. 

The  servants  and  peasants  wear  horizontal  caps  made  of  locks 
of  sheep's  wool  dyed  yellow.  They  are  like  the  Scotch  bonnets, 
but  much  larger.  I  never  saw  one  above  three  feet  in  diameter.  The 
women,  in  the  winter  time,  cover  their  heads  with  small  rough  caps 
of  the  same  materials.  Sometimes  they  dye  them  a  deep  blood  red. 
It  has  a  droU  appearance.  Paima's  dress  may  serve  as  a  specimen 
of  that  of  the  inferior  class  of  men.  The  higher  laymen  wear 
tunics  of  satin,  brocaded  or  plain,  lined  with  sheep  and  lamb  skins, 
or  Siberian  furs;  a  round  cap  faced  with  fur,  and  crowned  with  a 
silk  tassel,  and  Bulgar  hide  boots.  Hed  broadcloth  tunics  are  also 
far  from  uncommon.  The  women  wear  a  jacket,  and  petticoat 
reaching  a  little  below  the  knee,  of  coarse  blanket,  of  serge  striped 
or  plain,  or  of  Chinese  satin,  according  to  their  condition ;  Tatar 
stockings  soled  with  leather,  and  gartered  under  the  knee.  When 
dressed  they  have  a  piece  of  cloth  thrown  cloak-like  over  their 
shoulders.  All  ranks  of  them  are  at  great  pains  in  adormng 
their  heads;  plaiting  their  hair  neatly  enough  with  coral  and 
amber  beads,  bugles,  or  pearls ;  they  wear  also  necklaces  of  them, 
where  the  pieces  of  amber  are  sometimes  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg. 
The  quantity  of  the  two  first  kinds  of  beads  that  is  on  the  head, 
even  of  a  peasant  s  wife  or  daughter,  is  amazing.  The  two  last 
sorts  &11  to  the  share  only  of  the  ladies. 

It  is  not;  only  uncomportable  in  this  cold  climate  of  Tibet,  but 
directly  contrary  to  the  custom  of  the  country  for  the  inhabitants, 
whether  male  or  female,  high  or  low,  ever  to  wash  their  hands  or 
face.  It  is,  therefore,  difficult  to  determine  with  precision  the 
comple^on  of  the  Tibetans.  They  are  in  general,  I  think,  much 
darker  than  the  Deb  £ajah*s  subjects.  Paima's  hue,  however,  is 
among  the  blackest  I  have  seen.    They  are  also  far  from  being  so 

>  Of  tobacco  ulso  the  supply  is  scanty  and  dear ;  and  for  this  commodity,  toob  a 
great  outlet  might  bo  found  in  Tibet,  were  the  artificial  obstacles  removed. 


Cu.  XII.]  PRIESTS.    HORSES.  121 

handsome  or  well  made  as  iheir  neighbour  Bhntanese.^  Here  they 
are  seldom  above  the  middle  size;  in  the  Deb  Bajah's  oonntrj 
they  are  seldom  under  it.  Many  canses  might  be  given  for  this 
difference ;  bat  they  are  perhaps  only  theoretical,  and,  at  any  rate, 
this  is  not  the  place  for  them. 

The  gylongs,  or  priests,^  are  a  separate  dass  of  people.  Their 
TOWS  and  their  dress  are  the  same  as  in  the  Deb  Bajah*s  kingdom, 
but  they  are  much  more  numerous ;  they  have  lees  political  power, 
and  the  inferior  ones  are  therefore  worse  clad,  and  fiEire  worse. 
Besides  the  four  thousand  at  Teehu  Lumbo,  and  near  three  times 
that  number  at  Lhasa,  the  gylongs  are  scattered  over  the  country 
in  monasteries  with  land  annexed  for  their  support.  The  annis,  or 
nuns,  have  their  heads  shaven,  and  are  dressed  in  red  woollen; 
they  take  the  same  vows  of  chastity  as  the  priests,  and  live  in 
nunneries.  Their  number  is  not  great.  The  gylongs  and  the 
anniis,  owing  to  a  custom  which  I  shall  afterwards  mention,  con- 
tribute little  towards  increasing  the  population  of  the  state. 

The  people  in  general  are  downright  and  good-humoured,  not 
addicted  to  fawning,  as  in  Bengal ;  but  fond  of  laughing,  dancing, 
singmg,  and  taking  snuff.  In  the  Lama's  palace,  however,  women 
and,  of  course,  merriment  are  excluded. 

The  horses  seldom  rise  above  fourteen  or  fourteen  and  a  half 
hands.  They  are  mostly  white;  seldom  piebald;  strong,  hardy, 
and  not  vicious,  but  ill  treated.  They  run  into  the  opposite  extreme 
from  the  Bengalis.  One  man  will  feed,  I  cannot  say  take  care  of, 
twenty  or  five-and-twenty  horses.  The  goats,  sheep,^  dogs,  and 
cattle,  which  go  down  to  Bengal,  will  give  an  account  of  themselves. 

There  are  plenty  of  wild  ducks  and  geese,  which,  being  rm- 
molested,  are  very  tame,  and  numbers  of  hares ;  but  I  have  seen 
only  one  covey  of  partridges. 

*  That  is,  the  people  of  Bhatan,  or  for  examination,  the  value  of  which 
the  Lhopas.  Mr.  Hodgson  observes  was  placed  at  9d.  per  lb.  The  follow- 
that  it  may  be  questioned  whether  they  iug  is  a  quotation  from  the  prices 
are   handsomer    or    fairer   than   the  current  in  October,  1875 : 

Bodpas,  though  the  SoVpas  of  north-  d^'^**V  d. 

«Mt  Tibet  are  no  doubt  less  hand-  -^^j^^  ^^^  j^dia  wool  0  7    to  l'  6* 

■o™®-  Yellow  and  tinged  ditto  0  6     „  1  3 

•  Or  rather  monks.  Q^y,  black,  and  fawn, 

»  The  wool  of  the  Tibetan  sheep  is         ^^^^        0    2^  „  0  llj 

very  fine.    Mr.  Hodgson  sent  a  sample 


122  BURIAL  OF  THE  DEAD.  [Oh.  XIL 

Some  of  the  bonBes  are  of  stone ;  others  of  brick,  whitewashed 
or  painted.  The  stairs  are  ladders ;  from  the  difficulty  of  getting 
long  beams,  the  rooms  are  fall  of  posts.  They  haye  no  vents,  but 
let  ont  the  smoke  of  their  cow-dnng  fires  by  a  hole  in  the  roof, 
which  answers  also  to  give  light.  The  whole  room  is  abundantly 
dirty.  The  Lama's  present  habitation  is  small.  His  palace  at 
Teshn  Lnmbo  is,  I  am  told,  princely.^  The  ascent  to  the  apart- 
ments here  is  also  by  ladders;  bnt  the  apartments  themselyes 
are  well  painted,  gilded,  and  finished :  they  want  but  windows  and 
stoT66.  The  first  are  only  boards  like  the  frames  of  a  green- 
honse ;  the  last  are  unknown,  and  pots  with  charcoal  are  used  in 
their  stead. 

I  will  mention  only  the  two  customs  that  appear  most  singular. 

As  there  is  little  wood  in  the  country,  they  cannot  afford  to 
bum  their  dead ;  but  they  take  an  equally  effectual  way  of  destroy* 
ing  them.  The  body  is  carried  to  a  neighbouring  mountain,  and 
being  cut  and  beat  in  pieces,  is  left  to  be  devoured  by  the  wild 
beasts.  I  went  to  yisit  one  of  these  sepulchral  mounts,  and 
expected  to  find  it  like  a  chamel-housa  Eagles,  ravens,  and 
hawks  hovered  over  us ;  but  not  a  vestige  of  mortality  could  I 
see.  At  length  I  was  shown  the  spot  where  the  body  is  laid, 
and  could  observe  some  fresh  splinters.  On  the  top  of  this  gloomy 
lull,  an  aged  virgin  had  fixed  her  solitary  abode.  I  wanted  much 
to  see  the  inside  of  it.  At  last,  after  much  rhetoric,  I  got  her  to 
open  the  only  window  of  her  hovel,  and  show  her  wrinkled  £ace  and 
dismal  habitation.  Having  given  us  a  kind  of  liquor  made  of  wheat 
to  drink,  and  muttered  over  many  prayers  for  our  safety,  we  took 
our  leave.  This  female  hermit  subsists  entirely  on  alms,  and  is  held 
in  general  veneration  throughout  the  country. 

I  am  at  a  loss  for  a  name  to  the  other  custom,  unless  I  call  it 
polyandry.  In  most  Eastern  countries  polygamy  is  allowed.  The 
advocates  for  it  compare  mankind  to  the  deer ;  its  enemies  liken 
them  to  turtle-doves.  Montesquieu  and  other  political  writers 
insist  that  it  is  destructive  of  population ;  and  the  women  cry  out 
that  it  is  unjust  and  unreasonable  that  so  many  of  their  sex  should 
be  subjected  to  the  pleasure  of  one  man.     But  in  this  country  they 

*  Mr.  Bogle  must  have  written  this  chapter  at  Deshcripgay,  previous  to  hU 
visit  to  Teshu  Lum)>o. 


Ch.  XII.]  POLYANDRY.  123 

have  their  reyenge.  The  elder  brother  marries  a  woman,  and  she 
becomes  the  wife  of  the  whole  fieunily.  They  clnb  together  in 
matrimony  as  merchants  do  in  trade.  Nor  is  this  joint  concern 
often  productive  of  jealousy  among  the  partners.  They  are  little 
addicted  to  jealousy.  Disputes,  indeed,  sometimes  .arise  about  the 
children  of  the  marriage ;  but  they  are  settled  either  by  a  comparison 
of  the  features  of  the  child  with  those  of  its  several  fathers,  or 
left  to  the  determination  of  the  mother. 


12*  KASHMIRIS.  [Ch.  XIII. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

TRADE  OF  TIBET.' 

The  foreign  trade  of  Tibet  is  very  considerable.  Being  monn- 
tainons,  natnrallj  barren,  and  but  thinly  peopled,  it  requires 
large  supplies  from  other  countries,  and  its  valuable  productions 
furnish  it  with  the  means  of  procuring  them.  It  yields  gold,  musk, 
cowtails,  wool,  and  salt.  Coarse  woollen  doth  and  narrow  serge 
are  almost  its  only  manufactures.  It  produces  no  iron,  nor  firuit, 
nor  spices.  The  naturo  of  the  soil  and  of  the  climate  prevents  the 
•culture  of  silk,  rice,  and  tobacco,  of  all  which  articles  thero  is  a  great 
consumption.  But  the  wants  of  the  country  will  best  appear  from 
an  account  of  its  trade.  In  this  sketch,  however,  I  propose  only 
to  give  the  outlines,  which  I  will  beg  leave  afterwards  to  fill  up  and 
correct. 

The  genius  of  this  Government,  like  that  of  most  of  the  ancient 
kingdoms  in  Hindustan,  is  favourable  to  commerce.  No  duties  are 
levied  on  goods,  and  trade  is  protected  and  free  from  exactions. 
Many  foroign  merohants,  encouraged  by  these  indulgences,  or 
allured  by  the  prospect  of  gain,  have  settled  in  Tibet.  The  natives 
of  Kashmir,  who,  like  the  Jews  in  Europe,  or  the  Armenians  in 
the  Turkish  empire,  scatter  themselves  over  the  eastern  kingdoms 
of  Asia,  and  carry  on  an  extensive  traffic  between  the  distant  parts 
of  it,  have  formed  establishments  at  Lhasa  and  all  the  principal 
towns  in  this  country.  Their  agents,  stationed  on  the  coast  of 
Goromandel,  in  Bengal,  Benares,  Nepal,  and  Kashmir,  famish  them 
with  the  commodities  of  these  differont  countries,  which  they  dis- 
pose of  in  Tibet,  or  forward  to  their  associates  at  Seling,^  a  town  on 
the  borders  of  China.  The  Gosains,  the  trading  pilgrims  of  India, 
resort  hither  in  great  numbers.      Their  humble  deportment  and 

>  A  oopy  of  the  document,  oompristng  Inting  to  Mr.  Bogle*a  mission.  Another 

this   chapter,  is  in   the  archives   at  copy  has  been  preserved  in  the  India 

Oaloutta,  and  it  appears  to  be  the  only  Office, 

one  that  has  been  preserved  there  re-  '  Sining. 


Ch.  XIII.]    TRADE  WITH  BHUTAN,  ASSAM,  AND  CHINA.  125 

holy  chaiBcter,  heightened  by  the  merit  of  distant  pilgrimageB,  their 
accounts  of  unknown  conntries  and  remote  regions,  and,  above  all, 
their  professions  of  high  veneration  for  the  Lama,  procure  them  not 
only  a  ready  admittance,  bnt  great  &yonr.  Thongh  clad  in  the 
garb  of  poverty,  there  are  many  of  them  possessed  of  considerable 
wealth.  Their  trade  is  confined  chiefly  to  articles  of  great  value 
and  small  bulk.  It  is  carried  on  without  noise  or  ostentation,  and 
often  by  paths  unfrequented  by  other  merchants.  The  Ealmuks,^ 
who,  with  their  wives  and  families,  annually  repair  in  numerous 
tribes  to  pay  their  devotions  at  the  Lama's  shrines,  bring  their 
camels  loaded  with  furs  and  other  Siberian  goods.  The  Bhutanese 
and  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  moimtains,  which  form  the  southern 
frontier  of  Tibet,  are  enabled  by  their  situation  to  supply  it  as  well 
with  the  conmiodities  of  Bengal  as  with  the  productions  of  their  own 
states.  The  people  of  Assam  furnish  it  with  the  coarse  manu&c- 
tures  of  their  kingdom.  The  Chinese,  to  whose  empire  the  country 
is  subject,  have  established  themselves  in  great  numbers  at  the 
capital ;  and  by  introducing  the  curious  manujGBustures  and  merchan* 
dise  of  China,  are  engaged  in  an  extended  and  lucrative  conmierce. 
And  thus  Lhasa,  being  at  the  same  time  the  seat  of  government 
and  the  place  of  the  Dalai  Lama's  residence,  is  the  resort  of 
strangers,  and  the  centre  of  communication  between  distant  parts 
of  the  world. 

The  most  considerable  branch  of  commerce  is  with  China.  It 
is  carried  on  by  the  natives  of  that  kingdom,  by  Kashmiris,  and 
by  the  Lama's  agents,  who  proceed  to  Seling,^  and  sometimes  even 
to  Peking.  The  imports  are  coarse  tea,  of  which  the  consumption  is 
immense ;  flowered  and  brocaded  satins  of  various  kinds,  Pelong  ^ 
handkerchiefs,  silk,  thread,  furs,  porcelain  cups,  glass,  snuff-boxes, 
knives  and  other  cutlery,  talents  of  silver,  and  some  tobacco.  The 
returns  are  made  in  gold,  pearls,  coral,  chanks,^  broadcloth,  and  a 
trifling  quantity  of  Bengal  cloths.  The  productions  of  Siberia 
are  imported  chiefly  by  the  Ealmuks,  or  by  the  way  of  Sehng. 
They  consist  of  furs,  red  and  black  Bulgar  hides,  cowtails,  some 

^  Ealmok  is  here  used  as  the  equi-         '  Sioing. 
Talent  for  .  Mauchurians.     They  and         '  See  note  at  p.  16. 
the   Mongolians   resort   annually,    in  *  Shells. 

IftTge  nnmbers,  to  Lhasa  and  Teshn 
Ltumbo,  for  trade. 


126 


TRADE  WITH  NEPAL. 


[Ch.  xin. 


dromedarieB,  bastard  pearls,  and  silver,  and  are  bartered  for  broad- 
cloth, coral  and  amber  beads,  spices,  and  gold.  The  Eashmiris 
natnraUy  engross  the  trade  mth  their  country.  It  is  not  consider- 
able. The  imports  are  chiefly  sugar,  dried  raisins,  and  other  fruits. 
The  exports  are  goat's  wool  and  gold.  The  imports  from  Assam 
are  spices  and  timber,  munga  ^  doties,  and  other  coarse  manufiEictares 
of  silk  and  linen.  The  native  productions  of  the  Deb  Rajah's 
coimtry  brought  into  Tibet  are  rice,  wrought  iron,  coarse  woollen 
cloth,  and  some  munjit,^  which  are  exchanged  for  tea  and  other 
Chinese  commodities,  rock  salt,  wool,  sheep's  skins,  and  narrow 
friezes  for  their  home  consumption.  The  productions  imported  frx>m 
Nepal  are  chiefly  iron  and  rice.  But  as  these  two  countries  have 
been  the  principal  channels  of  communication  between  Bengal  and 
Tibet,  it  is  necessary  to  give  a  more  particular  account  of  them. 

While  Nepal  was  divided  among  the  different  states  of  Eath- 
mandu,  Patan,  Bhatgaon,  and  Gorkha,  and  remained  imder  the 
government  of  rajahs,  independent  of  each  other's  authority,  every 
encouragement  was  given  to  trade.^  A  very  moderate  duty  was 
levied  on  goods ;  the  country,  populous  and  well  cultivated,  easily 
famished  tiie  means  of  transporting  them,  and  the  merchants,  free 
from  spoil  or  exactions,  settied  in  Nepal,  and  contributed  to  enricb 
it  at  the  same  time  that  they  improved  their  own  fortunes.  Some 
dispute  arose  among  these  petty  chiefe;  they  went  to  war,  and 
Prithi  Narayan,^  the  G-orkhali  Bajah,  was  called  in  to  take  part  in  the 
quarrel.  Having  subdued  the  enemy,  he  turned  his  arms  against 
his  ally ;  and  partly  by  treachery,  partly  by  the  exertion  of 
superior  abilities,  has,  after  a  war  of  twenty-five  years,  made  him- 
self master  of  the  whole  of  the  country,  and  united  it  under  one 
government. 


'  The  silk  of  Assam.  (See  note  at 
p.  55.) 

*  See  note  at  p.  7. 

'  The  valley  of  Eathmandu,  in  Nepal, 
was  divided  into  three  sovereignties 
called  Patan,  Bhatgaon,  and  Kath- 
mandu,  each  governed  by  a  rajah. 
But  in  1768  Nepal  was  conquered  by 
the  Gk>rkhas.  Gorkha  is  the  name  of 
a  little  state  about  70  miles  W.N.W. 
of  the  valley  of  Nepal.  Gbrkhali  is  the 
name  of  the  people,  who  are  chiefly  of 


the  Khas  tribe.  The  conquered  people 
of  Nepal  are  the  Newars.  The  former 
are  addicted  to  arms,  the  latter  to  the 
arts  of  peace.  (See  the  account  of  the 
Gk>rkhali  conquest,  by  Father Guiseppe, 
in  the  *  Transactions  of  the  Asiatic 
Society  of  Bengal,*  ii.  p.  307.) 

*  Of  the  Gorkhali  Kings  of  Nepal, 
the  first,  Prithi  Narayan  Sah,  reigned 
from  1768  to  1771 ;  the  second,  Pertab 
Singh  Sah  Deva,  from  1771  to  1775. 


Ch.  Xni.]  TRADE  WITH  BENGAL.  127 

But  although  the  wealth  of  Nepal  furnished  the  Gbrkha  Bajah 
with  the  means  by  which  he  rose,  he  neglected  to  cherish  the  source 
from  whence  it  flowed.  Mistrustful  of  subjects  disaffected  to  his 
government,  he  entertained  a  number  of  troops  on  regular  pay.  He 
disciplined  them,  he  furnished  them  with  firearms,  he  formed  an 
artillery,  and  left  nothing  undone  to  render  himself  formidable.  The 
ordinary  revenue  of  countries  where  a  standing  army  had  hitherto 
been  unknown,  was  unequal  to  these  extraordinary  expenses ;  and 
the  Gorkha  Bajah,  among  other  expedients,  had  recourse  to  im- 
posing high  duties  on  trade  in  order  to  defray  them.  The  mer- 
chants, subject  to  heavy  and  arbitrary  fines  upon  the  most  frivolous 
pretences,  and  obliged  to  purchase  the  protection  of  a  tyrannical 
government  by  presents  scarcely  less  oppressive,  quitted  a  country 
where  they  could  no  longer  enjoy  that  freedom  and  security  which 
are  the  life  of  commerce.  The  Gosains,  who  had  formerly  very 
extensive  establishments  in  Nepal,  having  incurred  the  Gorkha 
Bajah's  resentment  by  the  assistance  which  they  afforded  his  ad- 
versaries, were  driven  out  of  the  kingdom ;  and  many  of  the  most 
wealthy  inhabitants  being  stripped  of  their  possessions,  or  exposed 
to  the  exactions  of  a  conqueror,  likewise  deserted  it  Only  two 
Kashmiri  houses  remain,  and  the  Bajah,  afraid  of  their  also 
abandoning  him,  obliges  them  to  give  security  for  the  return  of 
such  agents  as  they  have  occasion  to  send  beyond  the  boundaries 
of  his  dominions.^ 

The  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet,  through  the  Deb  Bajah's 
country,  used  formerly  to  be  engrossed  wholly  by  the  Bhutanese. 
Two  of  the  Kashmiri  houses,  however,  who  fled  from  Nepal, 
being  unwilling  to  forego  the  gainful  commerce  in  which  they  had 
hitherto  been  concerned,  settled  at  Lhasa,  and  having  obtained 
permission  from  the  Deb  Bajah  to  transport  their  goods  through 
his  territories,  established  agents  in  Bengal.  But  as  they  are  pro- 
hibited from  trading  in  broadcloth  and  some  other  considerable 
articles,  and  as  their  traffic  is  carried  on  to  no  great  extent,  and  all 
other  merchants  are  excluded,  it  by  no  means  compensates  the  loss 

>  Under   the  goTemment  of  Jung  duties  (17  to  20  per  cent.)*  and  by  end- 
Bahadur  an  OBsentiaUy  Bimilar  policy  less  monopolies.    Yet  tlie  exports  and  ! 
preyails  at  Kathmandn,  where,  accord-  imports  of   Nepal,  in   1831,    reached 
ing  to  Dr.  Wright's  semi-official  sketch  33  lakhs. 
of  Nepal,  our  trade  is  cramped  by  heavy 


128  CURRENCY.  [Ch,  XIII. 

which  Bengal  has  sustained  by  the  interraption  of  its  commerce 
through  Nepal. 

The  commodities  of  Bengal  tlsed  also  to  be  conveyed  into  Tibet 
through  the  Mnmng,^  and  a  province  adjoining  to  it  which  is  subject 
to  Lhasa,  and  governed  by  a  chief  styled  Demo  Jong.'  The  fiEJdrs, 
when  expelled  from  Nepal,  generally  freqnented  this  road ;  but  being 
esteemed  unhealthy,  it  was  not  adopted  by  any  creditable  merchants. 
The  Oorkha  Bajah,  however,  having  extended  his  conquests  over 
the  first  of  these  countries,  and  having  lately  invaded  the  other,  all 
intercourse  is  at  present  interrupted. 

Besides  these  different  communications,  there  is  a  road  leading 
from  Benares  and  Mirzapiir  through  the  Mustang^  country,  and 
the  hills  to  the  northward  of  Bulwant  Sing's  territories,^  which  are 
subject  to  rajahs  who  still  preserve  their  independence.  The  more 
valuable  sorts  of  Bengal  goods  are  sometimes  imported  into  Tibet 
by  this  channel.  But  although  the  merchants  travel  in  perfect 
security,  and  receive  every  assistance  from  these  petty  chiefe, 
the  length  of  the  way,  the  difficulty  of  the  road,  through  a 
mountainous  and,  in  several  places,  uninhabited  country,  and  the 
many  intermediate  tolls  upon  the  goods,  render  it  &r  from  eligible. 
Of  late  years  it  has  become  more  frequented,  on  account  of  its  being 
almost  the  only  means  of  communication. 

The  principal  articles  of  merchandise  between  Bengal  and 
Tibet  are  broadcloth,  otter  skins,  nil  (indigo),  pearls;  coral,  amber, 
and  other  beads ;  chank  shells,  spices,  tobacco,  sugar,  Malta  striped 
satins,  and  a  few  white  cloths,  chiefly  coarse.  The  returns  are 
made  in  gold  dust,  musk,  and  cowtails." 

A  knowledge  of  the  current  specie,  and  of  the  proportionate 
value  of  money  in  a  coontry,  is  of  capital  importance  towards  under- 
standing the  nature  of  its  trade.  But  the  intricacy  of  the  subject, 
and  the  variety  of  circumstances  requisite  in  forming  a  just  notion 
of  it,  oblige  me  at  present  to  mention  it  only  briefly.  There  are 
no  mints  in  Tibei  Payments  are  made  in  talents  of  China  and 
Tatary,  in  small  bulses  of  gold  dust,  or  in  the  coin  of  the  former 

>  See  note  at  p.  65.  *  Benares,  of  which  Balwant  Sing, 

'  Or  Dennjong.    Sikkim.  father  of  Gheyt  Sing,  was  rajah. 

*  Mustang  is  on  the  borders  of  Tibet,  *  See  a  fnU  list  of  exports  and  iin- 

by  the  Mnktinath  Pass  of  the  Nepalese  ports  in  Mr.  Hodgson's  Report,  pp.  91, 

Himalaya.  121.    (Trtibner,  1875,) 


Ch.  XIIL] 


CURRENCY. 


129 


rajahs  of  Eathmandn  and  Patan,  which  is  the  established  specie  of 
the  kingdom.^  The  circulation  of  their  rupees,  which  were  of  a 
base  standard,  proved  very  beneficial  to  these  chiefs,  and  Gt>rkha, 
as  soon  as  he  had  firmly  established  his  authority  in  Nepal, 
endeayonred  to  introduce  his  coin  into  Tibet.  For  this  purpose, 
he  sent  a  deputation  to  Lhasa  with  a  large  sum  in  rupees  struck 
in  his  name,  and  desired  the  sanction  of  government  to  circulate 
them  through  the  country.  The  merchants,  aware  of  the  Gorkha 
Bajah's  ill  futh,  refused  to  accept  them,  and  the  government 
returned  him  this  artful  answer:  "  We  are  willing  to  receive  your 
coin,  provided  that  you  take  back  all  the  money  of  Nepal  which 
is  now  in  circulation."  This  condition  was  neither  for  the  Gorkha 
Bajah's  interest  nor  in  his  power  to  comply  with.  Nothing  has 
since  been  done  in  this  important  afiair.  The  old  specie  continues 
to  pass ;  but  the  channel  by  which  it  was  introduced  having  been 
long  stopped  up,  it  has  risen  greatly  above  its  former  value,  as 
weU  in  proportion  to  the  talents  of  silver  as  to  the  gold  dust. 


*  The  Talley  of  Nepal,  before  its 
oonqneet  by  the  Qurkhas  in  1768,  was 
governed  by  three  dynasties  of  rajahs, 
who  all  coined  money.  The  coins  of 
the  Bhatgaon  rajahs  are  disting^aished 
by  a  shell ;  those  of  Patan  by  a  tirsiU 
(trident) ;  and  those  of  Kathmandu  by 
a  sword.  AU  money  nsed  in  Tibet  was 
coined  by  these  rajahs,  which  was  a 
source  of  considerable  profit  to  them. 
The  last  reigning  Rajah  of  BHatgaon 
sent  the  Bhntanese  snoh  base  coins  as 
to  cause  a  decrease  of  nearly  one-half  of 
their  intrinsic  valne.  This  led  to  a 
desertion  of  the  Nepelese  mints  for  a 
tima  But  there  is  no  other  currency, 
and  sOver  mohvn  of  Nepal  are  nsed  in 
Tibet  and  Bhutan,  either  whole,  or  cut 
into  halves,  quarters,  and  eighths.  The 
mahur  is  an  8-anna  piece,  weighing  87 
grains,  identical  with  the  Muhamma- 
dan  half  rupee.  The  silver  for  coin- 
ing is  procured  from  China  in  stamped 


lumps.  There  are,  however,  a  few 
specimens  of  sUver  coinage  struck  at 
Lhasa,  with  the  inscription,  '*  Taang 
pahu,"  or  Tsang  money,  and  the  date  oi 
the  Tibetan  year.  Chinese  brass  money, 
with  a  square  hole  in  the  centre,  is 
also  current  in  Tibet.  (See  '  Prinsep's 
Tables.') 

The  foUowing  memorandum  of 
weights  used  in  Tibet  is  among  Mr. 
Bogle's  papers : 

6 1  mahendra^maHi  *  equal  to  1  tank, 

5  tjnk8  make  1  nega, 

20   negaa   equal    to    1    oaii^   nearly 
equivalent  to  80]^  seers  of  80  sicca 
rupees. 
Gold  weights  of  Tibet : 

1^  mahendra-malli  equal  to  a  mascal, 

8  maacals  equal  to  a  gaitonj  equiva- 
lent to  1|  oz. 


♦  Called  after  the  Newar  dynasty  of 
the  Malls. 


K 


180 


RISE  OF  GBBXTB  BIHBOGHfi. 


[Gb.  XIV. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


NEGOTIATIONS. 


1. 

PouTios  OF  Tibet  and  NsiGHBOUBiNa  Gottntbies. 

About  seTenty  years  ago,  the  Emperor  of  China  acquired  the 
sovereignty  of  Tibet,  in  the  way  that  sovereignties  aie  generally 
acquired,  by  interfering  in  the  qnarreb  between  two  contending 
partiea^  In  consequence  of  a  revolution,  which  happened  about 
twenty-five  years  ago,  the  government  of  Tibet  was  committed  to 
the  former  Dalai  Lama.^  Upon  his  death,  Gesub  Bimboch^'  his 
cup-bearer  or  confidant,  procured  the  supreme  administration  of 
a&irs,  partly  through  his  own  interest  at  the  Court  of  Peking,  and 
partly  by  the  recommendation  of  Teshu  Lama,  who  came  now  to 
be  considered  as  the  first  man  in  the  country.  After  two  years^ 
Teshu  Lama  discovered  the  child  into  whose  body  the  Dalai 
Lama's  spirit  had  passed,  and  gave  notice  to  the  Court  of  China. 
He  was  immediately  recognized  by  the  Emperor.^  Changay 
Lama,  the  high-priest  who  resided  at  Peking,  came  to  visit  him. 


\  Gbinflee  power  was  eBtablished  in 
Lhasa  in  1720,  resident  Political  Agents 
being  appointed.  A  certain  supremacy, 
however,  existed  long  before  that  date. 

'  An  iDsnrrection  against  the  Chinese 
broke  out  in  1749,  which  ended  in  Lob- 
sang  Kalsang,  the  sixth  Dalai  Lama, 
being  establinhed  at  Lhasa,  with  two 
Chinese  Ambas  or  Residents.  The  sixth 
Lama  died  in  1758. 

*  From  time  immemorial  the  oldest 
among  the  occupants  of  the  four  chairs 
of  the  Chemiling,  Tengiling,  Chechu- 
ling,  and  Kenduling  monasteries  had 
the  title  of  Gesub  (or  Geshub)  Rim- 
booh^,  and  was  Regent  during  the 
Dalai  Lama's  minority.    But  now  the 


Gesub  Rimbooh^  or  tanporal  ruler,  is 
chosen  from  the  Dibong  monasteiy. 
He  is  also  called  the  Nomen  Khan. 
See  also  p.  2  3,  and  note. 

*  This  was  Lobsang  Champal,  the 
seventh  Dalai  Lama.  It  was  with  hia 
sanction  that  the  great  emigration  of 
the  Ealmuks  settled  in  Russian  terri* 
tory  took  place,  in  1771,  which  ia 
described  by  De  Quinoey.  Lobsang 
Champal  died  in  1805.  The  eighth, 
ninth,  and  tenth  Dalai  Lamas  were 
murdered  by  the  Regent  in  1815  and 
1887.  The  eleventh  died  in  1855.  The 
present  Dalai  Lama  is  the  twelfth.  He 
was  bom  in  1856.  His  death  has  lately 
been  reported,  but  not  confirmed. 


Gh.  XIY.]  GE8UB  BIMBOGHfi.  131 

and  after  passing  some  months  at  Teshu  Ltunbo,  returned  to 
court  For  many  years  after  Gtesnb's  promotion,  Teshu  Lama  oon- 
tinned  to  have  great  influence  in  the  government;  but  for  some 
time  past  Gesnb  has  endeavoared  by  his  own  interest  to  maintain 
himself  in  office^  and  although  he  appears  to  pay  great  deference  to  the 
Lama's  opinion,  he  consults  him  as  seldom  as  possible.  The  grand 
object  of  Gesub's  politics  is  to  secure  the  administration  to  himself, 
and  aflierwards  to  his  nephews ;  while  Teshu  Lama,  on  the  con- 
trary, is  exerting  all  his  interest  at  the  Court  of  Peking  to  procure 
the  government  for  the  Dalai  Lama,  who  is  now  nearly  of  age,  and 
to  obtain  the  appointment  of  a  minister  devoted  to  himself.  If  he 
can  carry  his  point,  his  influence  wiU  immediately  revive ;  for,  inde- 
pendent of  the  good  understanding  which  subsists  between  all  the 
Eastern  pontiffii,  the  Dalai  Lama  owing  his  promotion  to  Teshu 
Lama,  and  having  been  tutored  by  his  people,  tnll  naturally  pay 
great  attention  to  his  advice  and  opinion. 

The  obstacles  to  my  journey  arose  chiefly  from  Gesub  Sim- 
boch6.^    Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Desheripgay,  Teshu  Lama  gave 
me  one  of  his  letters,  where  he  mentions  '*  that  he  had  heard  of 
two  Fringies  being  arrived  in  the  Deb  Bajah's  dominions,  with  a 
great  retinue  of  servants ;  that  the  Fringies  were  fond  of  war ;  and 
after  insinuating  themselves  into  a  country,  raised  disturbances,  and 
made  themselves  masters  of  it ;  that  as  no  Fringies  had  ever  been 
admitted  into  Tibet,  he  advised  the  Lama  to  find  some  method  of 
sending  me  back,  either  on  account  of  the  violence  of  the  smallpox, 
or  on  any  other  pretence."    It  was  upon  this  letter  that  the  Lama 
ymcote  to  me  to  return  to  Calcutta.    After  the  arrival  of  the 
Gosain,  and  the  receipt  of  the  letter  I  sent  him  from  Tassisudon, 
he  wrote  to  Gesub, ''  that  he  had  from  the  beginning  dissuaded  Deb 
Jndhur  from  going  to  war ;  that  the  government  at  Lhasa  had 
encouraged  him  to  it ;  that  Deb  Judhur  had  been  defeated,  and  a 
great  part  of  his  country  conquered;  that  he,  the  Lama,  had 
written  to  the  Governor,  who  had  not  only  given  over  hostilities, 
but  restored  all  the  Deb  Bajah's  country;  that  as  I  was  sent  by  the 
Governor,  he  thought  it  was  proper  to  receive  me ;  but  if  they,  con- 
trary to  his  opinion,  persisted  in  refusing  their  permission,  and  any 
calamity  should  afterwards  come  upon  the  country,  they  had  them- 

>  He  also  obstructed  the  joumejr  of  Captain  Turner. 

K  2 


132  CHARACTER  OF  THE  TKSHU  LAMA.  [Ob.  XIV. 

selves  to  blame  for  it."  This  letter  procared  me  admittance ;  bnt 
Gesab,  at  the  same  time,  wrote  to  Teshu  Lama  to  prevent  my 
coming  to  Lhasa,  and  repeated  this  in  several  letters  after  my 
arrival.  The  truth  is,  he  is  naturally  of  a  jealous  and  suspicious 
temper,  and  was  besides  afraid  of  giving  umbrage  to  the  Chinese, 
as  jealous  and  suspicious  as  himself.  Gesub,  however,  sent  me  some 
Chinese  brandy,  biscuits,  and  fish ;  and  his  servants,  who  came  to 
congratulate  the  Lama  on  his  return  to  Teshu  Lumbo,  pidd  me 
two  visits.  By  the  return  of  his  people,  I  sent  him  some  trifling 
presents,  for  I  had  no  other  to  send,  and  wrote  him,  or  rather 
the  Lama  wrote  for  me,  a  letter;  but  I  never  received  any 
answer. 

Li  this  situation  I  was  obliged  to  confine  my  negotiations,  for 
extending  the  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet,  entirely  to  Teshu 
Lama.  I  could  not  think  of  going  to  Lhasa  without  such  pre- 
sents to  the  Dalai  Lama,  to  Gesub,  and  to  the  four  ministers,  as 
were  suitable  to  your  character ;  and,  at  any  rate,  Gesub's  jealousy 
put  it  out  of  my  power.  As  to  the  Lama,  I  had  every  reason  to 
think,  both  &om  his  attention  and  civilities  to  me,  and  the  manner 
in  which  he  expressed  his  sense  of  the  &vour  you  had  done  him  by 
concluding  peace  with  the  Bhutanese,  that  he  entertained  the  most 
friendly  dispositions  towards  you;  and  it  was  my  business  to  cherish 
them  as  well  as  I  could. 

Teshu  Lama  is  about  forty  years  of  age.  He  is  of  a  cheerful 
and  affiible  temper,  of  great  curiosity,  and  very  intelligeni  He  is 
entirely  master  of  his  own  affiiirs;  his  views  are  liberal  and 
enlarged,  and  he  wishes,  as  every  great  man  wishes,  to  extend  his 
consequence.  From  his  pacific  character,  and  &om  the  turn  of  his 
mind,  naturally  gentle  and  humane,  he  is  averse  to  war  and  blood- 
shed, and  in  all  quarrels  endeavours  by  his  mediation  to  bring 
about  a  reconciliation.  In  conversation  Jie  is  plain  and  candid, 
using  no  flattery  or  compliments  himself,  and  receiving  them  but 
badly  if  made  to  him.  He  is  generous  and  charitable,  and  is 
universally  beloved  and  venerated  by  the  Tibetans,  by  the  Kal- 
muks,  and  by  a  great  part  of  the  Chinese.  The  character  I  give  of 
him  may  appear  partial;  but  I  received  it  in  much  stronger  oolouis 
from  his  own  subjects,  from  the  Kashmiris,  and  from  the  &kizB; 
and  I  will  confess,  I  never  knew  a  man  whose  manners  pleased  me 


Ch.  XIV.J  his  wish  for  free  intercourse.  133 

80  mnch,  or  for  whom  upon  so  short  an  acquaintance  I  had  half 
tiie  heart's  liking. 

In  consequence  of  my  representing  to  him  your  wish  to  open  a 
free  communication  of  trade  between  the  inhabitants  of  Bengal  and 
Tibet,  he  wrote  to  Gesub  Bimbooh6  on  the  subject.    He  wrote  also 
to  the  principal  merchants,  Kashmiris  aa  well  as  natives.    Many  of 
them,  either  in  person  or  by  their  agents,  came  afterwards  to  visit 
me.   The  Tibetans  excused  themselves  from  sending  gvmasidas  into 
Bengal,  on  account  of  the  heat  and  unhealthiness  of  that  country. 
Several  of  the  principal  Kashmiri  houses,  who  had  been  forced  by 
the  Gorkha  Bajah's  oppressions  to  abandon  this  trade,  assured  me 
that  they  would  send  their  agents  to  Calcutta  as  soon  as  the  rains 
are  over,  and  the  Lama  engaged  to  procure  them  a  passage  through 
the  Deb  Bajah's  territories.     As  the  Gorkha  Bajah  had  invaded  the 
country  of  a  chief  subject  to  Lhasa,  the  Lama  could  make  no  appli- 
cation to  him ;  but  immediately  on  his  death,  he  wrote  to  the  new 
Bajah  of  Nepal,  desiring  him  to  fetvour  and  protect  commerce,  and 
to  allow  all  merchants,  Hindus,  and  Mussulmans,  to  trade  freely 
through  his  dominions, "  for,"  says  he,  "  everybody  is  now  afraid  to 
enter  your  country,  and  it  will  become  poor  and  desolate."     He 
wrote  also  recommending  the  same  thing  to  the  Deb  Bajah,  and 
has  sent  one  of  his  gylongs  to  co-operate  with  me  at  Tassisudon,  in 
my  apphcations  on  this  subject.    In  regard  to  allowing  Europeans 
to  go  unto  Tibet,  it  was  a  point,  although  not  particularly  men- 
tioned in  your  instructions,  which  I  wished  to  have  carried,  as  I 
was  sensible  it  would  have  reflected  great  credit  on  my  commission. 
But  the  jealousy  of  the  hill  people,  of  the  administration  at  Lhasa, 
and  the  circumstances  I  have  already  mentioned,  will,  I  imagine, 
serve  to  show  that  it  was  a  thing  simply  impossible.     If  the 
government  of  Tibet  is  entrusted  to  the  Lamas,  I  should  think 
this  point  may  then  be  urged  with  some  prospect  of  success ;  but 
at  present  I  consider  it  as  out  of  the  question.     As  the  returns, 
however,  for  the   commodities  of  Bengal  carried  into  Tibet   are 
made  principally  in  gold,  any  extension  of  this  commerce  is  so 
much  dear  gain  to  Beugal ;  and  the  channel  through  which  the 
trade  is  carried  on,  although  of  consequence  to  individuals,  is,  I 
humbly  apprehend,  of  very  Uttle  to  the  country.    If  any  English- 
men choose  to  embark  in  this  traffic,  I  do  not  see  why  it  may  not 


134  THE  LAMA'S  INTERCESSION  WITH  OmNA.       [Ch.  XIV. 

be  conducted  by  Asiatic  agents  as  well  as  by  Earopean  ones,  with- 
out running  any  risk  of  disturbing  that  friendship  and  good  under- 
standing which  I  know  you  wish  to  cultivate  with  the  Northern 
powers. 

In  my  address  of  the  5th  of  December,  I  mentioned  the  Lama's 
desire  of  founding  a  religious  house  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges. 
About  seven  or  eight  hundred  years  ago,  the  Tibetan  pontiffs  had 
many  monasteries  in  Bengal,  and  their  priests  used  to  travel  to 
that  country  in  order  to  study  the  reUgioA  and  language  of  the 
Brahmans,  and  to  visit  the  holy  places  in  Hindustan.  The  Mussul- 
mans,  upon  conquering  Bengal,  plundered  and  destroyed  their 
temples,  and  drove  them  out  of  the  country.  Since  that  time  there 
has  been  Uttle  intercourse  between  the  two  kingdoms.  The  Lama 
is  sensible  that  it  will  throw  great  lustre  on  his  pontificate,  and 
serve  to  extend  his  fame  and  character,  if  he  can,  after  so  long  an 
interval,  obtain  a  religious  establishmentin  Bengal,  and  he  is  very 
solicitous  about  this  point.  He  proposes,  also,  to  send  some  of  his 
gylongs,  during  the  cold  season,  to  wait  upon  you  at  Calcutta,  and 
afterwards  to  go  on  pilgrimages  to  Ghiya  and  other  places,  and  has 
written  to  Chidzun  Tamba,^  at  Peking,  who  has  great  interest  with 
the  Emperor,  informing  him  "  that  the  English  are  now  masters  of 
Bengal;  that  you,  their  chief^'have  sbown  him  great  favour;  that 
the  Enghsh  allow  everyone  to  follow  his  own  reUgion  unmolested ; 
and  advising  him  to  send  some  persons  to  wait  upon  you,  and  to 
visit  the  principal  temples  in  Bengal.''  I  own  I  encouraged  all 
this,  in  the  view  of  strengthening  the  intercourse  and  connection 
with  Tibet,  and  thinking  it  would  be  of  advantage  to  the  Company 
to  open  any  channel  of  communication  with  the  Court  of  China; 
and  although  I  am  not  so  sanguine  as  the  Lama  about  the  success 
of  his  endeavours,  however  sincere,  to  obtain  leave  for  yon  to  send 
a  person  to  the  Emperor,  I  do  not  altogether  despair,  by  your 
favour,  of  one  day  or  other  getting  a  sight  of  Peking. 

The  present  Emperor  is  of  a  violent  and  imperious  temper.'    He 

^  The  Guieon  Tamba  of  Hue ;  iden-  be  that  Mr.  Bogle  confuses  the  Gaimn 

tical  with  the  Taranath  Lama  (see  note  Tamba  with  the  Changay  Lama. 

at  p.  98).     He  resides  at  Urga,  but  *  This  was  the  Emperor  Kien-long, 

several  visits  of  the  Turanath  Lama  to  who  succeeded  to  the  throne  in  17S6 


Peking  are  recorded.     (See   Hue,    i.     His  army  subdued  Eastern 

p.  98.)    See,  however,  p.  146.    It  may     including  Kashgar,  Yarkand,  ^nd  Kho> 


Ch.  XIV.] 


FtBST  INTEBVIBW  WITH  THE  LAMA. 


185 


has  oonqnered  Yarkand  by  dint  of  numbers.  He  has,  partly  by 
arts  tinworthy  of  a  great  monarch,  rednoed  the  Kahnnks  to  strict 
subjection.  But  a  petty  Eambn  prince/  between  Yunnan  and 
Tibet,  defended  by  his  monntains,  and  assisted,  I  believe,  by  the 
King  of  Pegu,  has  kept  his  nmnerons  armies  at  lyaj  for  several 
years  past ;  and  the  quarrels  abont  the  bonndaries  and  the  migra- 
tion of  subjects,  between  him  and  the  Court  of  St.  Petersburg,  are 
likely  to  come  to  a  rupture,  when,  I  imagine,  he  will  get  himself 
heartily  drubbed.  The  Lama  is  endeavouring  to  prevent  it ;  but 
the  Chinese  seem  to  be  in  the  wrong,  and  the  Emperor's  haughty 
mind  cannot  stoop  to  make  concessions. 


2. 

CONVEBSATIOKS  WITH  THE  TeSHU   LaMA  AT  DESHEBIPaAY. 

The  day  after  my  arrival  I  waited  upon  the  Lama  with  the 
Governors  despatches,  having  previously  and  without  difficulty 
settled  that  I  should  be  allowed  to  give  the  letter  into  his  own 
hands.  I  delivered  it,  together  with  the  pearl  necklace,  while  my 
servants  spread  out  the  other  presents  before  him.  He  received 
me  with  a  very  courteous  and  smiling  countenance,  and  I  was 
seated  near  him  on  a  high  stool  covered  with  carpet.  He  spoke  to 
me  in  Hindustani,  of  which  language  he  has  a  moderate  know- 
ledge. After  inquiries  about  the  Governor's  health  and  my  journey 
from  Tassisudon,  he  introduced  the  subject  of  the  war  in  Bahar. 
He  blamed  Deb  Judhur  as  the  occasion  of  it.  "  I  always,"  said  he, 
*'  disapproved  greatly  of  his  seizing  the  Bahar  Bajah,  and  going  to 


tan,  and  annexed  it  to  the  Chinese 
Empire.  In  1771  the  fomons  flight  of 
the  Kalmuks  settled  on  the  banks  of 
the  Volga,  from  Russian  tyranny,  to6k 
place.  After  enffering  fearful  hard- 
ships, they  crossed  the  desert  of  Gobi, 
and  reached  Chinese  territory  with 
their  numbers  reduced  from  600,000  to 
250,000.  Kien-lmig  provided  for  them 
with  princely  muuiflcenoe,  and  they 
settled  on  the  banks  of  the  Dy.  Kien- 
nng  also  made  an  nnsnocessfol  attempt 


to  subdue  Burmah.  He  was  more  suc- 
cessful in  Tibet,  where,  in  1796,  his 
troops  defeated  an  invading  Kepalese 
army,  and  his  forces  advanced  to  within 
twenty  miles  of  Kathmandu.  Kieu- 
lung  abdicated  in  1796,  after  a  long 
and  glorious  reign  of  sixty  years,  and 
died  in  1800.  His  son,  Kea-King^ 
reigned  from  1796  to  1821,  and  was 
succeeded  by  Taou  Kwang. 

>  Probably  a    Prince   of   Kam   or 
Eastern  Tibet 


136  DISCUSSION  OF  THE  BHUTAN  WAR.  [Oh.  XIV. 

war  with  the  Fringies;  but  the  Deb  coDsidered  bimself  as  powerful 
in  arms,  and  would  not  listen  to  my  advice.  After  be  was  defeated 
I  wrote  to  the  Govemor,  who,  in  ceasing  hostilities  against  the 
Bhutanese,  in  consequence  of  my  application,  and  restoring  to  them 
their  country,  has  made  me  very  happy,  and  has  done  a  very  pious 
(durm)  action.  Aly  servants  who  went  to  Calcutta  were  only 
little  men,  and  the  kind  reception  they  had  &om  the  Governor 
I  consider  as  another  mark  of  his  friendship." 

I  told  him  that  Bahar  is  separated  from  Bangpur,  one  of  the 
provinces  of  Bengal,  only  by  a  rivulet;  that  the  Bhutanese  from  time 
immemorial  had  confined  themselves  to  their  mountains,  and  when 
they  visited  the  low  countries  it  was  in  an  amicable  manner,  and  in 
order  to  trade;  that  when  many  thousand  armed  men  issued  at 
once  from  their  forests,  seized  and  carried  off  prisoner  the  Bajah  of 
Bahar,  a  petty  prince,  who  could  be  no  object  of  their  jealousy, 
posjsessed  themselves  of  his  country,  and  settled  in  it,  the  Company 
had  just  cause  to  be  alarmed,  and  to  conclude  that,  encouraged  by 
their  success  in  Bahar  to-day,  they  wduld  hardly  be  confined  by  an 
ideal  boundary,  but  attempt  the  conquest  of  Bangpur  to-morrow, 
and  even  extend  their  views  to  the  interior  and  more  fertile  pro- 
vinces of  Bengal ;  that  the  Governor,  although  he  had  heard  much 
of  the  Lama's  name  and  holy  character,  yet  being  totally  unac- 
quainted with  the  Bhutan  nation,  and  having  then  had  no  connec- 
tion witli  their  chief,  had  the  more  reason  for  these  apprehensions, 
and  immediately  upon  an  application  from  the  Bahar  people  for 
assistance,  despatched  a  battalion  of  the  Company's  Sepoys  to  repel 
the  invaders ;  that  he,  the  Lama,  was  well  acquainted  with  what 
followed ;  that  the  Governor  was  extremely  rejoiced  on  the  receipt  of 
his  letters,  inmiediately  suspended  the  war  against  the  Bhutanese,^ 
and  afterwards  concluded  a  peace  between  them  and  the  Company, 
by  which  the  whole  of  their  country  was  restored  to  them ;  being 
happy  to  cultivate  the  friendship  of,a  man  whose  &me  is  known 
throughout  the  world,  and  whose  character  is  held  in  veneration 

>  Tibet  is  a  Peniaa  word.    The  In-  State  which  we  oaU  BhuUm.    To  pze- 

dian  name  for  the  country  is   Bkot,  vent  oonfamon  it  ia,  therefore,  better 

whence  Bhotia  for  a  native  of  Bhot,  to  have  a  separate  name  for  the  people 

Bod  and  Budpa  are  the  native  terms,  of  Bhutan,  and  not  to  caU  them  Bhu- 

Bhuiixnta,  or  **  the  end  of  Shot,"  is  the  teas.    I  have  adopted  Bhutanese. 
Indian  name   for  tlie    Cis-UimalayaQ 


Ch.  XIV.]  BHUTAN  AFFAIRS.  187 

among  so  many  nations ;  that  he  had  therefore  sent  me  to  his,  the 
Lama's,  presence  with  the  letter  and  tokens  of  friendship  which  I 
had  then  the  honour  to  lay  before  him,  and  which  I  hoped  wonld 
find  favour  in  his  eyes.  He  made  no  answer  to  what  I  said. 
Indeed,  I  doubt  whether  he  understood  it  well,  for  I  spoke  in  a 
language  which  he  had  not  been  used  to,  and  the  guttural  B, 
which  I  inherit  from  my  mother,  probably  increased  the  difficulty. 
After  this  I  endeavoured  to  confine  myself  within  the  compass  and 
to  imitate  the  phraseology  of  his  language,  and  so  we  made  it  out 
very  well. 

^^  You  have  no  doubt  heard,"  said  the  Lama, ''  that  Deb  Judhur 
has  been  turned  out  of  his  government,  and  has  fled  to  me :  he  did 
not  manage  the  country  properly,  and  the  Fringies  were  not 
pleased  with  him."  I  replied,  that  the  English  had  no  concern  at 
Deb  Judhur's  expulsion ;  it  was  brought  about  by  his  own  people ; 
and  that  the  Company  only  wished  the  Bhutanese  to  continue  in 
their  own  country,  and  not  to  encroach  upon  Bengal,  or  raise 
disturbances  upon  its  frontier.  ^'The  Governor,"  said  he,  ''had 
reason  for  going  to  war,  but,  as  I  am  averse  from  bloodshed  and  the 
Bhutanese  are  my  vassals,  I  am  glad  it  is  brought  to  a  conclusion." 
He  then  opened  the  Governor's  lett^,  but  it  was  not  at  that  time 
explained  to  him. 

Next  day  the  Lama  was  engaged  in  receiving  the  visits  and 
presents  of  some  Kalmuks,^  and  I  had  an  opportunity  of  waiting 
npon  him.  He  sent  for  me  the  next  morning.  He  was  without 
his  mitre  cap,  and  nobody  was  with  him  besides  the  Sopon  Ghumbo, 
his  confidant  and  £Eivourite. 

He  resumed  the  story  of  Bahar,  and  repeated  the  reasons  for 
the  war  on  the  same  principle.  He  again  expressed  much  satisfsus^ 
tion  at  the  reception  the  Governor  had  given  his  servants ;  he  said 
he  had  sent  another  person  with  them  who  was  of  a  higher  station, 
but  he  had  been  prevented  from  proceeding  to  Calcutta  by  sickness. 
<<I  will  plainly  confess,"  said  he,  ''that  my  reason  for  then 
zefosing  you  admittance  was  that  many  people  advised  me  against 
iL  I  had  heard  also  much  of  the  power  of  the  Fringies ;  that  the 
Company  was  like  a  great  king,  and  fond  of  war  and  conquest ;  and 
as  my  business  and  that  of  my  people  is  to  pray  to  God,  I  was 

1  Sokpas,  of  North-<»8t  Tibet. 


138  ERECTION  OP  A  BUDDHIST  TEMPLE  IN  INDIA.     [Cbl  XIV. 


afraid  to  admit  any  Fringies  into  the  oonntrj.  Bat  I  haye  ednce 
learned  that  the  Fringies  are  a  fair  and  a  just  people.  I  never 
before  saw  any  Fringies,  bnt  am  yery  happy  at  yonr  arrival,  and 
you  will  not  think  anything  of  my  former  refusal.''  I  replied  that 
I  always  attributed  his  refusal  to  the  representations  of  some  ill- 
minded  people,  which  had  made  an  mifftvotirable  impression  on  his 
mind,  as  donds  for  a  time  will  darken  the  snn.  **  The  Governor  is 
above  all  things  desirous  of  obtaining  your  friendship  and  fetvour. 
As  your  opinion  is  so  generally  and  so  justly  regarded  in  this  part 
of  the  world,  he  is  sensible  how  much  the  character  of  the  English 
is  in  yonr  hands,  and  that  their  good  or  bad  name  depends  greatly 
npon  your  judgment  I  have  therefore  represented  these  things  in 
your  presence,  the  truth  of  which  is  known  to  all  the  world." 

In  return,  the  Lama  assured  me  his  heart  was  open  and  well 
disposed  towards  the  English,  and  that  he  gave  no  credit  to  the 
representations  which  had  been  made  to  their  disadvantage  ^'  I 
wish,"  he  said,  ''  to  have  a  place  on  the  banks  of  the  Qanges,  to 
which  I  might  send  my  people  to  pray.  I  intend  to  write  to  the 
Governor  on  this  subject,^  and  wish  you  would  second  my  applica- 
tion." I  replied  that  as  I  knew  how  desirous  the  Gt)vemor  was 
to  cultivate  his  friendship,  I  was  persuaded  on  this  or  any  other 
occasion  he  would  find  him  very  ready  to  gratify  him  as  &r  as  in 
his  power. 

He  inquired  if  we  worshipped  the  Criss,  making  a  cross  with 
his  fingers,  and  adding  that  there  were  formerly  some  Fringy 
padres  at  Lhasa  who  -worshipped  the  Criss,  but  they  bred  disturb- 
ances, and  were  turned  out  of  the  country.^  I  said,  I  had  heard  of 
the  priests  who  had  been  at  Lhasa ;  that  they  were  not  of  my 
country,  spoke  another  language,  and  that  their  religion  differed 
from  mine;  that  the  clergy  of  England  remained  at  home,  and 
travelled  not  into  other  countries;  that  we  allowed  everyone  to 


1  "  This  he  did  after  Mr.  Bogle's  re- 
torn.  A  piece  of  land  was  purchased 
and  given  to  him,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Ganges,  opposite  to  Oalcntta ;  a  house 
and  a  temple  were  oonstructed  upon 
the  spot  by  the  Lama,  under  the  direo- 
tion  of  Mr.  Bogle,  and  people  from 
Tibet  and  Bhutan  constantly  resorted 
to  it  during  the  time  for  which  my 


knowledge  reaches;  I  conclude  Che 
same  to  this  hour."  \_This  it  a  note  on 
the  manuscript,  in  another  hand ;  I  think 
that  of  A,  Dalrymple,'] 

*  What  remained  of  this  Christian 
eetablinhment,  and  of  others  (mostly 
books),  was  presented  to  Mr.  Hodgaoii, 
when  he  was  Resident  in  Nepal,  by  the 
Dalai  Lama. 


Gh.  XIV.]  YAKf L  OF  THE  BENABES  BAJAH.  139 

worship  God  in  his  own  way,  to  which  the  Gosain  or  any  of  his 
people  who  had  heen  in  Bengal  oonld  bear  witness ;  and  that  we 
esteemed  a  good  and  pious  man,  of  whatever  religion  he  might 
be.    He  changed  the  subject,  and  I  was  not  sorry  for  it. 

In  the  afternoon  I  visited  the  Chanzu  Cusho,^  who  is  brother  to 
the  Lama  by  the  same  mother,  but  by  a  diSferent  father,  but  has 
little  of  his  engaging  manners  or  abilities.  The  conversation  was 
short,  formal,  and  uninteresting. 

I  had  been  told  that  Gheyt  Sing's  vakil  had  described  the 
English  as  a  people  designing  and  ambitious ;  who,  insinuating 
themselves  into  a  country  on  pretence  of  trade,  became  acquainted 
with  its  situation  and  inhabitants,  and  afterwards  endeavoured  to 
become  masters  of  it ;  and  that  his  representations,  in  concurrence 
with  other  circumstances,  had  contributed  to  raise  up  obstacles  to 
my  journey. 

He  came  to  visit  me ;  and  as  I  think  it  best  and  most  becoming 
the  character  of  the  Knglish  to  deal  openly  with  every  man,  I 
resolved  to  mention  this  to  him.  I  accordingly  told  him  what 
I  had  heard.  I  said  that  the  English  had  always  been  be&iended 
by  Bulwunt  Sing,  his  master's  father ;  and  if  their  transactions  in 
Bengal  were  unjustifiable,  Bulwunt  Sing  was  equally  to  blame  in 
assisting  them ;  that,  however,  it  was  known  to  the  whole  world 
that  the  English  were  obliged  by  necessity  and  in  self-defence  to  go 
to  war.  I  briefly  mentioned  their  rise  in  Bengal,  enlarged  upon 
the  assistance  Bulwunt  Sing  had  afforded  them ;  the  friendship  tiiat 
had  always  subsisted  between  him  and  the  Company,  and  which 
was  still  continued  with  Cheyt  Sing.  I  added  that  as  I  knew  how 
displeased  the  Governor  would  be  were  I  to  say  anything  un&vour- 
able  of  his  master,  I  was  convinced  Gheyt  Sing  would  disown  him 
in  anything  he  might  say  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  Company. 

He  declared  he  had  not  spoken  anything  against  the  English ; 
that  he  believed  a  vakil  of  Kashmiri  Mull,  who  was  lately  gone  to 
Lhasa,  might ;  that  he  only  told  Teshu  Lama  what  he  knew  of 

>  Chanzu  Cuaho  was  Begent  for  the  wide  fihce  with  nose  a  little  turned  up, 

infant  Lama  at  the  time  of  Captain  smaUhlaok  eyes,  and  high  oheekbonee. 

Turner's  visit  to  Teshu  Lumbo,  in  1783.  There  was  an  agreeable  symmetry  in 

Captain  Turner  deeoribes  him  as  of  his  features,  and  a  sweetness  of  expres- 

middle  size,  rather  of  a  broad  make,  don  in  his  conntenanoe  which  was 

but  not  inclined  to  corpulency,  short,  highly  pieposDOBoing.  (Turner,  p.  242.) 


140 


CORDIALITY  OF  THE  LAMA. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


the  affairs  of  Hindustan,  and  concluded  mth  the  rote  of  Hin- 
dustanis, that  I  was  his  master,  a  great  man,  &c.  I  replied,  that 
as  he  was  sent  to  the  Lama  by  the  Bajah  of  Benares,  I  in  the  same 
maimer  was  deputed  by  the  Governor  on  the  part  of  the  Company ; 
that  it  was  my  duty  to  attend  to  the  character  of  my  constituents, 
and  it  was  the  custom  of  the  English  to  deal  openly ;  that  I  had 
only  reported  to  him  what  I  had  heard,  and  was  gkd  to  find  &om 
him  that  I  was  misinformed. 

After  this  altercation  he  and  I  became  great  friends.  He  used 
to  come  frequently  to  see  me,  and  haying  been  a  great  traveller, 
his  conversation  sometimes  helped  me  to  beguile  a  few  tedious 
hours. 

On  the  15th  of  November,.the  Lama  sent  for  me,  and  desired 
me  to  bring  all  my  people  with  me.  He  repeated  the  assurances  of 
his  good  opinion  of  the  English,  and  expressed  himself  with  respect 
to  the  Governor  in  very  friendly  terms,  accompanied  with  that 
frank  and  candid  look  which  ought  to  be  the  pledge  of  sincerity. 
After  some  observations  on  the  coldness  of  the  climate,  he  caused 
me  to  be  dressed  in  a  purple  satin  gown,  lined  with  fox  skins,  and 
trimmed  at  the  neck  and  cuffs  with  a  scolloped  gold  lace,  which  he 
said  had  come  from  Bussia ;  cap  of  European  flowered  silk  brocade, 
turned  up  with  sable,  and  crovmed  with  a  red  silk  tassel;  and 
a  pair  of  large  red  leather  jack-boots.  He  equipped  Mr.  Hanulton 
also  in  Tatar  costume,  but  his  tunic  was  of  blue  satin ;  and  all  our 
servants,  either  this  day  or  a  few  days  afterwards,  received  tunics 
lined  with  sheep  skins,  and  boots. 

I  next  day  went  to  the  Sopon  Chumbo,^  who  is  a  gi^at 
favourite.  He  has  been  at  Peking,  through  a  great  part  of  Tatary, 
and  even  as  fjax  as  the  borders  of  Kussia,  and  has  a  knowledge  of 
the  languages  of  these  different  countries.    I  made  a  short  visit ; 

bonea,  and  was  withoat  even  the  rudi- 
ment of  a  beard.  Hia  duties  under 
the  Ltima,  as  SacUk,  were  to  receive 
and  communicate  his  master's  ohm- 
mands,  to  arrange  the  celebration  of 
festivals,  to  take  charge  of  the  wardrobe, 
the  treasury,  and  to  act  as  cup-beHrer. 
He  had  travelled  much,  into  China,  to 
Khalka,  and  even  to  the  shores  of 
I^ke  Baikal."    (Turner,  p.  248.) 


'  Captain  Turner  says  that,  ut  the 
time  of  his  visit,  in  1788,  this  tSopon 
Chumbo  was  treated  by  the  Begent, 
Chanzu  Cusho,  more  as  a  colleague 
than  a  subordinate  ofScer.  **  The  singu- 
lar power  he  enjoyed  seemed  to  be  no 
more  than  what  was  justly  due  to  his 
integrity  and  talents.  His  countenance 
was  open  and  ingenuous.  He  had 
small  eyes,  thin  eyebrows,  high  cheek 


Ch.  XIV.]  CAUSES  OF  DECLINE  OF  TRADE.  141 

for  the  Lama  seemed  fully  master  of  his  own  affitirs,  and  had  before 
told  me,  though  I  recollect  not  at  which  conversation,  that  as  I 
could  speak  to  him  without  an  interpreter,  he  wished  me  to  apply 
only  to  him  about  any  business  I  might  have,  and  not  to  trouble 
myself  with  representing  it  through  the  channel  of  his  officers. 

The  Lama  began  enumerating  some  causes  of  the  decline  of  the 
trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet.  He  mentioned,  first,  the  war 
with  Deb  Judhur,  during  which  nothing  was  allowed  to  pass 
through  his  country  to  or  from  Bengal,  and,  said  he,  "  if  I  would 
allow  him  he  would  again  go  to  war  with  his  own  people,  but  I  will 
not  suffer  him  to  quit  Giansu,  where  he  now  is."  He  next 
mentioned  Prithi  Narayan,  the  Bajah  of  Ghrkha,  who,  he  said,  had 
conquered  all  the  countries  in  Nepal,  and  by  his  exactions  and 
oppreeriona  had  obliged  aU  merohante  to  quit  his  country,  as  he 
seizes  upon  their  money  aud  goods  whenever  he  has  occasion. 
"  He  has  now,"  said  he,  ^  taken  possession  of  Bijapur,  on  the 
borders  of  Bengal,  and,  I  am  told,  threatens  to  invade  the  Deb 
Bajah's  country.  As  to  me,  I  give  encouragement  to  merchants, 
and  in  this  country  they  are  free  and  secure." 

I  said  that  as  he  was  so  well  acquainted  with  the  causes  of 
ibis  stagnation  of  trade,  and  as  he  and  the  Company  coincided  in 
their  treatment  of  merchants,  I  assured  myself  that  he  would  apply 
an  effectual  remedy.  He  repHed  that  the  people  of  his  country 
carried  their  goods  only  to  Pari-jong,  where  they  were  received 
and  purchased  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  Deb  Bajah's  country,  and 
by  them  carried  into  Bengal ;  and  that  the  goods  of  Bengal  were 
conveyed  into  Tibet  in  the  same  manner.  I  told  him  that  the 
people  of  the  Deb  Bajah's  country  always  carried  on  some  trade 
to  Bungpiir,  and  were  this  year  to  send  their  horses,  &c.,  as 
usual,  and  I  was  convinced  would  have  no  reason  to  be  dissatisfied 
with  their  reception;  that  this,  however,  was  only  to  a  small 
extent,  was  nothing  equal  to  the  consumption  of  the  two  countries, 
and  bore  no  proportion  to  what  the  trade  was  in  former  times. 
To  this  he  fully  assented,  and  finished  his  conversation  with  in- 
forming me  that  he  expected  one  of  the  ministers  from  Lhasa  in  a 
few  days,  and  that  he  would  introduce  me  to  him,  as  he  wished  me 
to  be  known  to  all  the  principal  people  in  that  country.  From 
this  I  understood  that  something  depended  on  this  man. 


143  DIB0UB8I0N  AS  TO  TRADB.  [Cb.  XIV. 

SeTeral  holidays  and  much  praying  prevented  me  from  seeing 
the  Lama  for  some  days.  He  introdnced  the  subject  of  trade ;  he 
ennmerated  the  different  artides  sent  from  this  oonntry  to  Bengal: 
gold,  mnsk,  oowtails,  and  coarse  woollen  doths.  He  said  that  the 
Tibet  people  were  afraid  to  go  to  Bengal  on  aooonnt  of  the  heat; 
that  he  had  last  year  sent  four  people  to  worship  at  Benares,  of 
whom  three  had  died,  besides  the  person  he  intended  should  have 
gone  to  Calcutta ;  that  the  journey  was  also  uncommon,  and  they 
were  frightened  at  it ;  that  in  former  times  great  numbers  of  the 
people  of  this  country  used  to  resort  to  Hindustan ;  that  the  Lamas 
had  temples  in  Benares,  Gaya,  somewhere  in  Pumeah,  and  at  several 
other  places,  the  names  of  which  Idid  not  know ;  that  their  priests 
used  to  travel  thither  to  study  the  Shaster  and  the  religion  of  the 
Brahmans ;  and  after  remaining  there  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  years, 
returned  to  Tibet,  communicating  their  knowledge  to  their  country- 
men, and  thereby  gaining  great  reputation;  that  about  eight 
hundred  years  ago  Bengal  vras  invaded  and  conquered  by  the 
Mussulmans,  who  destroyed  and  pillaged  the  temples  and  plundered 
the  people,  so  that  such  as  escaped  returned  to  their  mountains 
along  with  some  Brahmans  who  fled  frx>m  the  persecutions;  since 
which  time  the  inhabitants  of  Tibet  have  had  little  connection  vrith 
Bengal  or  the  southern  countries. 

I  told  him  that  times  were  much  altered;  that  in  Bengal 
and  under  the  Company  every  person's  property  was  secure,  and 
everyone  was  at  libcoiy  to  follow  his  own  religion.  He  said  he 
was  informed  that  the  country  under  the  Fringies  was  very  quiet ; 
that  as  I  had  come  so  £eu:  a  journey,  and  had  been  sent  by  the 
Governor,  he  would  be  ashamed  if  I  were  to  return  with  a  fr-uitleas 
errand;  that  as  soon,  therefore,  as  he  arrived  at  Teshu  Lumbo, 
where  he  would  have  his  officers  about  him,  and  likewise  some  of 
the  people  from  Lhasa,  he  would  consult  vdth  them,  and  also 
send  for  some  considerable  merchants,  after  informing  them  of 
the  Governor's  desire,  and  of  the  encouragement  and  protection 
which  the  Company  afforded  to  traders  in  Bengal,  discuss  the 
most  proper  method  of  carrying  it  on  and  extending  it.  ''  Yon," 
said  he, ''  will  also  speak  with  them,  and  we  tnll  see  what  can  be 
done."  I  could  have  nothing  to  say  against  a  proposal  so  reason- 
able, and  I  saw  plainly  he  chose  not  to  take  any  step  before  he 


Ob.  XIY.]  BEFBBENOE  TO  LHASA.  148 

had  ooxamimioalied  this  to  his  own  officers  and  to  the  people  at 

On  the  18th  of  November  I  had  another  audience  of  the  Lama. 
He  talked  of  religion  and  of  the  connection  between  his  Mth  and 
that  of  the  Brahmans ;  that  they  worshipped  three  of  the  Hindu 
gods,  Yishnn,  Brahma,  and  another/  but  not  their  infedor  deities. 
He  then  asked  me  how  many  gods  there  were  in  my  religion.  I 
told  him  one.  He  replied  that  he  had  heard  that  in  my  religion 
Qoi  was  bom  three  times.  I  had  no  mind  to  attempt  an  explana- 
tion of  the  mysteries  of  the  Trinity.  I  felt  myself  unequal  to  it. 
I  told  him,  therefore,  that  according  to  my  fiuth  God  had  always 
existed.  He  obseryed,  charitably,  that  we  all  worshipped  the  same 
God,  but  under  different  names,  and  all  aimed  at  the  same  object, 
though  we  pursued  different  ways.  The  answer  I  gave  him  was 
in  the  same  tolerant  spirit ;  for  I  am  not  sent  as  a  missionary, 
and  after  so  many  able  and  ingenious  Jesuits,  dressed  in  the  habits 
of  apostles  and  armed  with  beads  and  crucifixes,  have  tried  in  vain 
to  convert  unbelieving  nations,  I  am  not  so  arrogant  as  to  believe 
that  my  labours  would  be  successful. 

The  Lama  told  me  that  he  had  written  to  Lhasa  on  the 
subject  of  opening  a  free  commercial  communication  between  this 
country  and  Bengal.  "  I  have  told  them,"  said  he,  *'  that  as  you 
are  come  so  far,  and  from  the  King  of  Hindustan,  they  must  attend 
to  your  business." 

Although  he  spoke  this  with  all  the  zeal  in  the  world,  I  confess 
I  did  not  much  like  the  thoughts  of  referring  my  business  to 
Lhasa,  where  I  was  not  present,  where  I  was  unacquainted,  and 
where  I  had  reason  to  think  the  ministers  had  entertained  no 
fjAvourable  idea  of  me  and  my  commission.  I  represented  to  I^it^j^ 
therefore,  that  I  considered  him  as  the  principal ;  that  during  the 
minority  of  the  Dalai  Lama  the  government  of  the  country  was  in 
his  hands;  and  that  I  trusted  solely  to  him  for  removing  the 
obstacles  to  the  trade  between  this  country  and  Bengal.  He  said 
he  had  also  written  to  encourage  the  merchants  to  trade  to  Bengal. 
I  replied  that  the  merchants,  if  they  found  their  advantage  in  this 
traffic,  would  no  doubt  be  ready  to  follow  it;  but  as  he  had 
informed  me  of  the  difficulties  they  were  exposed  to  in  passing 

>  Siva. 


144  AGGRESSIONS  OF  THE  GORKHA  RAJAH.         [Gh.  XIY. 

through  Nepal,  and  as  he  knew  that  the  Deb  Bajah  did  not  allow 
a  free  trade  through  his  dominions,  I  begged  to  know  by  what  road 
they  coald  go.  He  said  that  formerly  Deb  Jndhnr  wonld  not  suffer 
the  Tibet  people  to  trade  into  his  country;  that  the  Bhutanese 
as  well  as  the  inhabitants  of  Demo  Jong's  country  ^  lying  between 
Pari-jong  and  Murung,^  were  oppressiye  and  lawless,  so  that 
merchants  lay  at  their  mercy.  I  begged  leave  to  represent  to  him 
that  I  had  found  them  very  honest  and  peaceable ;  as  I  knew  his 
influence  over  the  Bhutanese  I  made  no  doubt  but  he  could  procure 
their  permission  for  a  free  trade.  He  observed  that  the  present 
Deb  Bajah  was  an  old  man,  and  spoke  not  very  respectfully  of  him, 
but  added  that  he  would  write  to  him  on  the  subject,  and  I  might 
be  assured  of  his  exerting  himself  in  the  business  I  was  sent  upon. 
It  was  late  and  I  took  my  leave. 

The  Lama  sent  for  me  on  the  6th  December,  and  delivered  me 
some  letters  from  Calcutta  and  Bahar.  At  his  desire  I  opened 
them  in  his  presence.  He  inquired  what  news,  and  particularly  if 
there  was  anything  said  about  the  Gbrkha  Bajah.  I  told  him 
there  was  not  '^  Because,''  said  he,  ^'his  forces  are  employed  in 
attacking  Demo  Jong,  whose  country  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Bengal.  They  have  surrounded  it ;  the  Gorkha  Bajah  has  trained 
Sepoys  after  the  English  manner,  and  given  them  muskets ;  but 
I  am  told  they  are  not  good  marksmen,  and  do  not  hit  above 
once  in  a  hundred  times."  I  said  I  had  been  told  in  the  Deb 
Bajah's  country  that  the  Grorkha  Bajah  was  somewhere  on  the 
borders  of  Tibet  Says  he,  "  They  must  have  meant  Demo  Jong's 
dominions,  which  are  subject  to  Lhasa.  O,"  says  he,  '^I  have 
just  now  a  letter  fix)m  the  Deb  Bajah.  He  is  in  a  sad  plight  about 
Deb  Judhur,  having  heard  that  he  was  about  to  return  to  invade 
the  country,  and  he  writes  me  by  all  means  to  detain  him."  After 
this  he  inquired  about  lightning  in  Bengal.  He  said  in  Tibet  the 
thunderbolts  are  sometimes  of  stone  or  iron,  and  then  showed  me  a 
knife,  with  an  open-worked  handle  of  steel  and  gold,  with  several 
heads  carved  upon  it,  and  some  Chinese  characters  on  the  blade, 
which  he  said  had  Mien  from  the  clouds.  It  was  almost  the  only 
part  of  all  his  conversations  that  was  marvellous.  He  asked  me 
many  questions,  but  it  is  endless  putting  them  down.     As  he  had 

^  Sikkim.  '  See  note  at  p.  &*>. 


I 


Ch.  XIV.]         THE  LAMA'S  RETURN  TO  TESHU  LUMBO.  145 

deferred  my  bnsmesB  till  his  arriTal  at  his  capital,  I  said  nothing  on 
the  subject. 

On  the  7th  of  December  I  had  a  short  interyiew  with  the  Lama. 
He  was  to  set  ont  from  Desheripgaj  next  morning,  in  order  to 
return  to  Teshu  Lnmbo,  his  palace,  from  which  he  had  been  three 
years  absent. 


146  BUDDHIST  TEUPLG  ON  TEE  GANGES.  [Ch.  XV. 


GHAFTEB  XV. 

OONYERSATIONS  WITH  THB  TESHU  LAMA  AT  TESHU  LUMBO. 

At  the  iSrst  meeting  after  his  return  to  Teahii  Lnmbo,  the  Tedia 
Lama  spoke  to  me  of  what  he  had  before  mentioned  as  to  forming 
a  religions  honse  somewhere  on  the  Ganges/  and  I  repeated  my 
belief  of  the  readiness  with  which  his  desire  woold  be  complied 
with.  He  said  he  had  also  written  or  proposed  to  write  to 
Ghangay  Lama,'  the  high-priest  at  Peking,  with  whom  he  was  upon 
the  most  friendly  and  intimate  terms,  mentioning  that  the  FringieB 
were  masters  cS  Bengal,  and  had  shown  him  great  favonr ;  and, 
says  he,  "  I  think  it  probable  he  will  send  some  of  his  pec^le  to 
yisit  the  principal  religions  places.  I/'  added  he,  '^am  bnt  a 
little  man  in  comparison  of  the  Ghangay  Lama,  for  he  is  always  in 
the  Emperor's  presence,  and  has  great  influence  oyer  him.  The 
fJEtvonr  which  the  Emperor  shows  to  me  and  the  Dalai  Lama  is  in 
a  good  measure  owing  to  Ghangay  Lama's  good  offices  at  courL 
I  hope,  therefore,  in  case  he  sends  any  persons,  that  the  Governor 
will  give  them  a  good  reception."  I  encouraged  him  yery  much  in 
all  this.  ^'  At  present,"  said  he,  ^'  I  cannot  say  whether  they  ¥Fill 
come  or  not.  If  they  do,  I  will  send  them  to  the  Deb  Bajah,  and 
from  thence  they  ¥rill  proceed  to  Bengal."  I  said  the  Goyemor,  I 
imagined,  would  be  glad  to  know  some  httle  time  beforehand,  that 
he  might  giye  orders  for  their  journey.  Nothing  else  of  conse- 
quence passed,  and  I  went  to  receive  the  Lhasa  deputies. 

>  Go  hearing  of  the  Lama's  wihh,  name  known  in  this  country,  and  of 

Warren    Hastings   immediately   gave  strengthening  the  friendship  which  is 

the  necessary  orders  ahout  huildiog  a  between  us,  and  yon  wiU  consider  it  aa 

Bnddhist  temple  on  tho  banks  of  the  a  mark  of  the  confidence  and  regard 

Uugli,  and  as.  soon  as  it  was  oolnpleted  which  I  bear  to  you."  Turner  mentioDa 

lie  wrote  and^nformed  the  Lama,  who  this  Buddhist  temple  as  being  opposite 

had  previously  sent  images  to  be  de-  Calcutta,   on  the  banks  of  the  river 

posited  in  it.    Referring  to  the  temple,  (p.  269). 

Waxren  Hastings  says,  in  a  letter  to  '  He  is  called  by  Hue  the  Tohang- 

TesliuLama:  **  By  the  blessing  of  God,  Kia-Fo,  a  sort  of  Grand  Almoner  of 

it  will  be  the  means  of  making  your  the  Imperial  Court  (iL  p.  197). 


Ch.  XV.]  THE  LHABA  DEPUTIES.  147 

There  were  two  of  them.  The  one  was  a  gylong,  the  other  a 
layman  dressed  in  a  feminine  garh,  and  they  came  with  about 
twenty  attendants.  They  brought  with  them  many  boxes,  full 
of  small  dried  fish,  oakes,  flour,  mushrooms,  Ac,  and  some  bamboos 
filled  with  distilled  spirits.  The  layman  spoke.  He  said  they 
were  come  from  Lhasa  to  wait  upon  the  Lama,  and  brought  these 
China  meats  from  Gesub  to  me,  of  which  they  desired  my  ao- 
ceptance;  that,  although  it  was  not  the  custom,  the  Lama  had 
ordered  them  to  wait  upon  me,  as  I  had  come  firom  such  a  distance, 
and  firom  the  chief  of  the  Fiingies.  Li  return,  I  made  acknow- 
ledgments for  the  fiiYOur  which  G^esub  had  shown  me ;  that  I  was 
sent  by  the  Governor  to  pay  his  respects  to  the  Lama,  and  that  I 
was  extremely  happy  and  honoured  by  their  visit 

They  said  the  Fringies  had  shown  great  favour  to  the  Lama 
and  to  them,  by  making  peace  with  the  Bhutanese  and  restoring  their 
country.  I  replied,  that  ther  name  and  character  of  Dalai  Lama 
and  of  Teshu  Lama  were  well  known  to  my  constituents,  and  that 
the  Governor  was  very  ready  to  cultivate  their  and  Gesub  Bim- 
bochf^'s  fiiendship  and  good  opinion ;  that  the  English  were  &r 
from  that  quarrelsome  people  which  some  evil-minded  persons  repre- 
sented them  to  be,  and  wished  not  for  extent  of  territories ;  that  as 
they  were  entrusted  with  the  management  of  Bengal  they  only 
wished  that  it  should  remain  in  tranquillity;  that  the  war  vrith  the 
Bhutanese  was  of  their  seeking ;  that  they,  the  deputies,  being  well 
acquainted  with  government,  could  judge  whether  the  Company 
had  not  cause  to  be  alarmed  when  8000  or  10,000  Bhutanese,  who 
had  formerly  always  confined  themselves  to  their  mountains, 
poured  at  once  into  the  low  country,  seized  the  Bajah  of  Bahar, 
took  possession  of  his  territories,  and  carried  their  arms  to  the 
borders  of  Bengal;  and  whether  they  were  not  in  the  right  to 
oppose  them ;  that  in  the  course  of  the  war  some  of  the  Bhutan 
country  was  taken  from  them,  which,  however,  was  immediately 
restored  at  the  Lama's  request ;  that  so  £Etr  from  desiring  conquest, 
the  boundaries  of  Bengal  remained  the  same  as  formerly;  and 
although  the  English  kept  up  a  large  army,  the  war  with  the  Deb 
Bajah  was  the  first  they  had  been  engaged  in  for  many  years. 
The  layman  gave  a  nod  with  his  head.  He  then  said,  the  Lama 
had  written  to  Lhasa  about  merchants ;  that  the  people  of  this 

L  2 


148  THE  LHASA  DEPUTIES.  [Ch.  XV. 

oonntry  ware  afraid  of  the  heat,  and  proceeded,  therefore,  only  to 
Pari-jong,  where  the  Deb  Bajah's  subjects  brought  the  commodities 
of  Bengal  and  exchanged  them  for  those  of  this  country ;  that  this 
was  the  ancient  custom,  and  would  certainly  be  ol^served.  I  replied, 
that  this  trade  had  always  been  carried  on  by  the  Deb  Bajah's 
people,  who  were  this  year  gone  to  Bengal,  as  usual ;  but,  besides 
this,  there  was  formerly  a  very  extensive  trade  carried  on  between 
this  coxmtry  and  Bengal,  which  my  constituents  were  sorry  to  see 
had  declined  very  much  of  late  years ;  that  it  was  needless  for  me 
to  represent  to  them,  who  were  acquainted  with  the  state  of  afiiEurs, 
the  causes  from  which  this  proceeded ;  that  the  Goyemor  was 
desirous  of  removing  these  obstacles,  and  had  ordered  me  to  repre- 
sent them  to  the  Lama,  who  had,  in  consequence,  written  to  Lhasa 
on  the  subject,  and  I  trusted  that  Qesub  Rimboch^  and  the  govern- 
ment there  would  readily  comply  with  so  reasonable  a  proposal. 
They  answered,  that  G^sub  Bimboch^*  would  do  everything  in  his 
power,  but  that  he  and  all  the  country  were  subject  to  the  Emperor 
of  China.  This  is  a  stumbling-block  which  crosses  me  in  all  my 
paths.  The  Lhasa  people  took  their  leave.  I  offered  to  return 
their  visit.  They  seemed  not  to  wish  it,  but  said  they  would  come 
to  see  me  again. 

On  the  23rd  of  December,  before  the  Lama  went  to  church  he 
sent  for  me.  At  his  desire  I  repeated  to  him  what  had  passed 
between  me  and  the  deputies  from  Lhasa.  I  told  him  that  they 
said  the  ancient  custom  would  certainly  be  observed ;  that  according 
to  the  ancient  custom  Nepal  was  governed  by  its  own  rajahs,  and 
merchants  were  at  liberty  to  trade  through  that  country  between 
Bengal  and  Tibet ;  that  unless  the  government  at  Lhasa  could  re- 
store Nepal  to  its  former  state,  or  order  the  Gbrkha  Bajah  to  treat 
the  merchants  with  indulgence,  I  confessed  I  did  not  see  how  the 
ancient  custom  could  be  preserved.  He  said  he  vras  very  sensible 
that  the  trade  with  Bengal  had  declined  very  mach  of  late  years ; 
that  formerly  the  merchants  used  to  bring  coral,  pearls,  and  broad- 
cloth in  abundance  into  the  country,  which  was  not  the  case 
nowadays;  that  as  to  the  Gorkha  Bajah,  there  was  no  trusting 
him;  that  a  few  years  ago  he  encouraged  some  merchants  to 
settle  in  Nepal,  treated  them  well  at  first,  but  afterwards  cut  off 
their  ears  and  turned  them  out  of  the  country ;  that  he  had  also 


Gh.  XV.]  aggressions  of  the  GORKHA  rajah.  149 

promised  again  and  again  to  him,  the  Lama,  and  to  the  govern* 
ment  at  Lhasa,  that  he  wonld  never  encroach  a  finger's  breadth 
on  their  territories,  bat  now  he  had  attacked  Demo  Jong  s  country,^ 
vrhich  was  subject  to  Lhasa ;  that  he  was  convinced  of  the  reason- 
ableness of  my  proposals  in  regard  to  trade,  and  had  accordingly 
written  to  Lhasa  on  the  subject,  and  had  received  an  answer  from 
thence,  in  which  Gesnb  Bimboch^  mentioned  his  apprehensions  of 
giving  umbrage  to  the  Chinese ;  and  that  besides  the  disturbances 
which  the  Gorkha  Bajah  was  making  in  Demo  Jong's  country, 
and  on  the  borders  of  that  of  the  Deb  Bajah,  rendered  this  an 
improper  time  to  settle  anything  of  the  kind,. but  that  in  a  year 
or  two  he  hoped  to  bring  it  about ;  that  the  Debo,  who  had 
visited  me  and  played  at  chess,  with  two  others,  was  gone  with 
forces  to  oblige  the  Gorkha  Bajah  either  to  quit  Demo  Jong's 
country,  or  fight  with  him.  I  replied  that  as  to  the  Gorkha  Bajah, 
I  did  not  imagine  from  all  I  could  judge  that  he  was  likely  to  be  a 
smaller  man,  but,  on  the  contrary,  a  greater;  that  so  fax  from 
being  satisfied  with  the  conquests  he  had  made,  and  the  extensive 
country  of  which  he  had  got  possession,  he  was  meditating  new 
schemes  of  ambition;  that  he  had  subdued  Murung,  Bijapur, 
and  had  now  attacked  Demo  Jong's  country,  which  gained,  he 
would  make  himself  master  of  the  Deb  Bajah's  dominions,  or 
perhaps  extend  his  views  towards  Pari-jong;  that,  in  short,  the 
Gorkha  Bajah's  views  aimed  plainly  at  conquests.  The  Lama  was 
obliged  to  go  to  church,  but  as  I  was  taking  leave  he  desired  me 
not  to  mention  what  he  had  said  at  my  last  visit  about  the  persons 
from  China,  which  was  a  great  affair  {Burrah  Katim).  I  assured 
him  of  my  silence  in  general,  and  as  to  this  in  particular. 

On  the  28th  December  I  had  an  audience  of  the  Lama,  where 
nobody  but  his  confidant  was  present.  He  expatiated  largely  on 
the  Gk)rkha  Bajah's  war  with  Demo  Jong,  his  treachery  and  breach 
of  promise  to  him  and  to  the  government  at  Lhasa.  I  repeated  to 
him  my  opinion  of  the  Gorkha  Bajah ;  that  his  ambition  and  his 
abilities  made  him  aspire  at  conquests;  that  if  he  succeeded  in 
the  conquest  of  Demo  Jong*s  country,  he  would  attempt  Pari-jong 
or  the  Deb  Bajah's  country,  and  that  having  assumed  the  title  of 
Sing  of  the  Hills  (Parbat-kai-Padshah),  he  wished  to  be  so  in 

>  Sikkim. 


150 


AOGBB8SIONS  OF  THE  GORKHA  RAJAH. 


(Oh.  XV. 


reality;  that  in  judging  of  the  intentions  of  men  their  actions 
ought  to  he  the  criterion ;  and  that  I  could  not  help  bdng  con- 
cerned that  the  Gorkha  Bajah,  after  having  from  a  petty  rajah 
made  himself  master  of  all  Nepal,  after  having  suhdued  Bijapur^ 
and  Murung,^  and  after  having  at  length  attacked  the  tern- 
tories  of  Demo  Jong,  a  vassal  of  Lhasa,  should  be  considered  by 
€^ub  and  the  government  of  this  coimtry  as  more  to  be  trosted 
than  the  English,  who  during  twelve  or  fifteen  years  had  never 
attempted  to  extend  the  boundaries  of  Bengal,  who  had  re- 
stored the  Deb  Ba>jah's  country,  and  who  were  known  to  adhere 
religiously  to  their  engagements.  The  Lama  replied  that  the 
government  at  Lhasa's  eyes  were  opened,  and  that  they  viewed 
the  Qorkha  Bajah's  designs  in  a  very  different  light ;  that  as  to 
the  English,  G^sub  had  received  such  accounts  of  them  as  raised 
his  suspicions;  ^^and,"  added  he,  ''his  heart  is  confined,  and  he 
does  not  see  things  in  the  same  view  as  I  do.''  I  said  I  had  heard 
a  great  deal  of  Gesub's  abilities,  but  I  confessed  in  the  present  case 
I  thought  he  was  blind  to  his  own  interest;  that  I  knew  the  Gorkha 
Bajah  was  afraid  of  the  English ;  that  he  was  sensible  also  how 
firmly  they  adhered  to  their  treaties  and  to  their  friends ;  that  he  had 
seen  Shujau-'d-Daulah's^  country  enjoy  a  state  of  perfect  tranquillity 
during  twelve  years,  merely  from  the  Mahrattas  and  the  other 
powers  of  Hindustan  knowing  that  the  English  would  be  ready  to 
assist  him ;  that  Shujau-d*-Daulah,  when  apprehensive  of  an  inva- 
sion, had  even  sometimes  called  in  the  assistance  of  the  Company's 
troops,  which  had  marched  to  the  extreme  boundaries  of  his 
dominions,  and  had  afterwards,  when  there  was  no  further  ooeasion 
for  their  presence,  returned  to  Bengal;  that  1  confessed  I  saw 
nothing  more  likely  to  make  the  Gorkha  Bajah  desist  from  his  war 
with  Demo  Jong^  and  confine  himself  to  his  own  country,  than  the 
knowledge  of  a  connection  between  the  government  of  this  oouniry 


'  The  Yijapur  of  Bnchanaii  Hamil- 
ton. This  place  was  the  residence  of 
the  Subah  of  the  Mnrung,  and  of  a 
fonner  dynasty  of  prinoes.  It  is  on 
the  high  part  of  the  low  hUls,  over- 
looking the  Murung,  eadt  of  the  Eosi 
river. 

3  Buchanan  Hamilton  describes  the 


Mmung  tm  extending,  in  the  low 
oountry,  from  the  Kosi  to  the  Tiata, 
about  87  miles  from  east  to  west^  and 
48  miles  across.  The  inhabitants  are 
chiefly  of  the  Koch  or  Bajbangai  tribe 
(p.  156).    See  also  note  at  p.  65. 

»  The  Nawab  of  Oudh. 

<  Sikkim. 


Ob.  XT.]  CHINESE  INFLUENCE.  }51 

and  tbat  of  Bengal.  He  seemed  to  be  mttoh  pleased  with  what  I 
had  said,  and  asked  me  if  he  might  write  this  to  Gesob.  I  told  him 
he  mighty  and  that  I  had  no  donbt  that  the  Gbvemor  would  be  ready 
to  employ  his  mediation  to  make  the  Gotkha  Bajah  desist  from  his 
attempts  on  the  territories  subject  to  Lhasa,  and  that  I  had  reason  to 
think,  from  the  Qorkha  Bajah's  dread  of  the  English,  that  it  would 
be  effectual ;  but  I  added  that  if  Gesub,  contrary  to  reason,  and  what 
he  had  seen  of  the  fideUty  and  moderation  of  the  English,  continued 
to  entertain  suspicions  of  them,  I  was  helpless,  and  my  constituents 
were  helpless.  He  said  that  Grub's  appreheni^ons  off  the  English 
arose  not  only  from  himself,  but  also  &om  his  dread  of  giving 
offence  to  the  Chinese,  to  whose  empire  this  country  was  subject, 
and  that  he  wished  to  receive  an  answer  from  the  court  at  Peking. 
I  replied  that  whenever  he  mentioned  the  name  of  the  Emperor  of 
China  I  was  struck  dumb ;  that  from  his  letter  to  the  Governor, 
as  well  as  from  every  account,  my  constituents  considered  him  (the 
Lama)  as  the  chief  of  the  country  during  the  Dalai  Lama  s  minority, 
and  that  although  the  Emperor  was  paramount  sovereign,  every- 
thing was  left  to  his  management ;  that  Gesub  owed  his  promotion 
to  him,  and  followed  his  advice ;  that  the  Governor,  in  his  proposals 
about  trade,  was  promoting  the  advantage  of  Tibet,  as  well  as  of 
Bengal ;  that  in  former  times  merchants  used  to  come  freely  into 
this  country,  that  the  Gorkha  Bajah's  wars  and  oppressions  had 
prevented  them  for  some  years  past,  and  only  prayed  him  to  remove 
the  obstacles  which  these  had  occasioned.  He  replied  that  he  had 
no  doubt  of  carrying  the  point  I  wished,  but  that  it  might  require 
a  year  or  two  to  do  it  effectually ;  that  besides  the  obstruction  to 
trade  which  the  Gorkha  Bajah's  conduct  in  Nepal  had  occasioned, 
his  present  war  with  Demo  Jong^  prevented  the  importation  of 
sugar,  spices,  tobacco,  &c.,  and  that  the  people  of  this  country  com- 
plained loudly  of  it.  After  thanking  him  for  his  intentions  of 
opening  trade  in  the  course  of  two  years,  I  told  him  that,  being 
sent  by  the  Governor  upon  this  business,  I  could  not  help  being 
zealous  for  its  succesis ;  that  it  depended  on  him  whether  I  should 
return  to  Bengal  happy  and  crowned  with  reputation,  or  covered 
with  shame,  which  would  certainly  be  my  portion  if  I  &iled  in  the 
point  which,  by  the  Governor's  orders,  I  had  represented  to  him. 

<  Sikkim. 


152  THE  LHASA  DEPUTOSS.  [Gh.  XV. 

On  the  30th  of  Deoemher,  Gesab  BimbochS's  people  came  to 
take  leave  of  me.  I  mentioned  to  them  that  I  wished  to  haye 
waited  upon  them ;  bat  they  had  decUned  my  visit ;  that,  however^  I 
proposed  to  write  to  Gesnb  Bimboch^  by  them,  and  begged  they 
would  be  so  good  as  to  take  care  of  my  letter.  They  said  if  I 
mentioned  simply  in  my  letter  the  receipt  of  the  Chinese  brandy, 
&c.,  they  would  carry  it,  but  that  if  I  said  anything  of  business,  or 
anything  about  the  Kalmuks  that  might  bring  troubles  on  the 
country  or  on  Gesub,  they  would  not  carry  it.  I  confess  I  was 
much  struck  with  this  answer.  I  replied  that  being  sent  to  Tesha 
Lama  and  hving  under  his  roof,  I  had  asked  his  opinion  about 
writing  to  Gesub,  that  he  had  advised  me  to  it  (through  the 
Gosain),  and  that  I  should  write  nothing  without  showing  it  to 
him  and  receiving  his  approbation ;  that  I  was  concerned  at  their 
expressing  an  apprehension  of  my  writing  anything  that  could 
embroil  Gesub;  that  I  was  come  into  the  country  with  a  pure 
heart  and  wished  its  happiness  and  Gesub  Bimboche  happiness. 
They  desired  I  would  give  them  a  copy  of  the  letter  I  intended 
to  write  to  Gesub.  I  replied  that  I  would  give  the  letter  and  copy 
to  the  Teshu  Lama,  and  if  he  thought  proper  he  would  show  it  to 
them.  I  added  that  I  wished  to  know  the  ground  of  Gesub's 
suspicions,  and  as  I  knew  the  uprightness  of  my  constituents' 
intentions  as  well  as  my  own,  I  was  ready  to  give  him  every  satia- 
fiftction.  Their  answer  was  tliat  they  were  come  to  take  leave  of  me, 
that  much  conversation  was  not  the  custom  of  this  country,  and  so 
wished  me  a  good  journey  to  Bengal.  I  endeavoured  to  get  them 
to  listen  to  me.  I  wished  to  introduce  the  subject  of  trade,  but  it 
was  to  no  purpose ;  so  we  parted. 

This  conversation  gave  me  more  concern  than  any  I  had  in 
Tibet.  I  immediately  applied  for  an  audience  of  the  Lama,  and 
was  admitted.  I  repeated  to  him  what  had  passed.  He  said  the 
people  from  Lhasa  were  little  men  and  knew  no  better.  I  replied 
that  had  I  thought  their  conversation  proceeded  only  from  them- 
selves I  would  feel  little  uneasiness  at  it;  but  I  had  reason  to 
consider  their  sentiments  as  those  of  G^sub's,  and  could  not  help 
being  concerned  that  he  should  suspect  me  of  coming  into  this 
country  to  raise  disturbances;  that  God  was  my  witness  that  I 
wished  him  well,  that  I  wished  the  Lama  well  and  the  country  well. 


Ch.  XV.]  LETTER  TO  OESVB  BIMBOCH^.  158 

and  that  a  snspioion  of  treachery  and  iialsehood  was  what  I  oonld  not 
bear.  I  was  a  good  deal  affected,  and  said  this  with  some  warmth. 
The  Lama  endeayonred  to  remove  my  concern.  He  said  that 
Gesnb  was  nnacqnainted  with  the  character  of  the  English ;  ^^  bat," 
said  he,  ''  at  any  rate  the  Dalai  Lama  will  be  of  age  in  a  year  or 
two,  and  then  Gesnb's  management  will  be  at  an  end."  I  told  him 
that  I  had  before  sent  to  ask  his  opinion  as  to  the  propriety  of  my 
writing  to  Gesnb,  and  having  now  represented  to  him  what  had 
passed  between  me  and  GesnVs  vakils,  I  was  come  to  ask  his 
advice  and  opinion.  Upon  this  I  took  out  the  draft  of  a  letter  I 
intended  to  have  sent  to  Gesnb,  and  read  it  to  him.  ^^  Every 
conntry,"  qnoth  the  Lama,  "  has  its  particular  manner  of  writing. 
If  yon  please  I  will  write  a  letter  for  you."  I  accepted  his  offer.  He 
inunediately  called  in  one  of  his  people,  and  making  him  sit  down, 
dictated  a  letter  in  the  Tibet  language  in  my  name  to  Gesnb  Bim- 
boch6,  explaining  it  to  me  at  the  same  time  in  the  Hindustani  lan- 
guage. To  the  best  of  my  remembrance  it  was  to  the  following 
purpose : 

To  Gesub  Bimbochk. 

[After  some  compliments.] 

'^  I  have  received  the  Chinese  wine,  fish,  mushrooms,  biscuit, 
&c.,  that  you  were  so  good  as  to  send  me  in  great  abundance,  and 
all  very  good  of  their  kinds.  May  your  country  enjoy  tranquillity 
and  yourself  happiness.  I  request,  in  the  name  of  the  Gk)vernor 
my  master,  that  you  will  allow  merchants  to  trade  between  this 
country  and  Bengal.  I  have  sent  you  a  gun,  a  piece  of  broad- 
doth,  and  a  handkerchief,  which  you  will  please  accept  of." 

After  the  letter  was  written  I  took  leave  of  the  Lama. 

Next  day  I  sent  the  letter  with  the  broadcloth,  &c.,  to  G^sub's 
servants  by  one  of  Teshu  Lama's  people,  and  begged  him  to  tell 
them  how  concerned  I  was  for  what  had  passed ;  that  if  Gesub  in 
spite  of  everything  would  entertain  suspicions  of  me,  and  if  they 
would  not  listen  to  what  I  had  to  say  in  order  to  remove  them,  I 
was  helpless ;  that  I  had  sent  a  letter,  &c.,  for  Gesub,  which  I 
requested  them  to  deliver  to  him,  and  in  case  they  wished  to  know 
the  contents,  they  would  apply  to  the  Lama,  who  had  seen  and 
approved  of  it.    They  returned  me  an  answer  that  they  were  sorry 


154  REASON  FOR  NOT  GOING  TO  LHASA.  [Cfl.  XV. 

and  ashamed  at  what  passed  at  otir  last  meeting;  that  thej  would 
deliver  the  letter  to  Gesab,  and  would  fjuthfnlly  mention  to  him 
what  I  had  said.  From  this  I  found  that  the  Lama  had  spoken 
to  them. 

It  may  appear  extraordinary  that,  though  I  was  exposed  to  so 
many  inconvenienoes  from  the  seat  of  government  being  at  Lhasa, 
I  should  never  have  proposed  my  going  thither  to  the  Lama,  and  it 
IS  necessary  that  I  should  give  my  reasons  tot  it.  I  had  every  cause 
to  think,  from  Gesnb  Bimboch^'s  letter  to  the  Lama,  from  the  Lama's 
conversation,  and  &om  other  accounts  which  I  had  received,  that 
Oesub  £imboch6  was  extremely  jealous  of  me ;  that  he  considered 
me  as  come  to  spy  '^the  nakedness  of  the  land,''  and  that  the 
English  had  designs  upon  this  country.  I  was  suspicious  there- 
foro  that  he  would  refuse  my  visit  while  he  continued  in  this  way 
of  thinking,  and  I  entertained  some  hopes  that  the  Lama's  letters 
and  the  ropresentations  of  the  Ghauduri^  (a  man  whose  connection 
with  me  I  shall  afterwards  mention)  would  bring  him  to  entertain  a 
moro  f&vourable  idea  of  me  and  of  my  business.  Another  thing,  I 
could  not  (in  the  character  I  boro  as  being  sent  on  the  part  of  the 
Company)  go  to  Lhasa  without  suitable  presents  to  Gesub,  to  the 
Dalai  Lama,  and,  perhaps,  to  the  Chinese  officers,  and  these  presents 
I  had  it  not  in  my  power  to  make. 

I  visited  the  Lama  on  the  13th  January,  and  he  introduced 
this  subject  himself.  He  said  that  as  I  had  come  so  far  he  would 
be  very  glad  that  I  should  see  Lhasa  also ;  that  Gesub,  however, 
was  averse  from  it,  and  had  written  to  him  to  keep  me  with  him, 
and  that  I  should  not  go  to  Lhasa;  that  he  was  afraid  of  my 
seeing  the  city;  that,  however,  if  I  chose  to  send  any  of  my 
servants  to  Lhasa  he  would  give  them  passports,  and  they  could 
afterwards  give  me  an  account  of  it  and  of  anything  I  wished  to 
know.  It  became  now  necessary  that  I  should  give  an  Miswer 
either  one  way  or  the  other.  I  replied  that  I  was  exceedingly 
concerned  to  find  that  Gesub  still  continued  to  entertain  sadli 
suspicions  of  me,  and  to  imagine  that  I  was  come  with  a  design  o{ 
making  an  unfriendly  account  of  this  kingdom ;  that  I  knew  notiiing 
about  surveying  or  war ;  that  Mr.  Hamilton,  who  was  with  me, 
knew  as  little ;  that  as  to  the  country  of  Tibet,  the  Gosain,  who 

»  See  p.  172. 


j 


Ch.  XV.] 


THE  GE8UB  BIMBOOHfi. 


155 


had  been  down  in  Galcntta,  oonld  tell  him  that  the  Goyemor 
had  plans  of  it^  and  knew  the  nameB  and  sitaatia&8  of  the  prin^^ 
cipal  places,  Lhasa,  Chamnamring,  Shigatze,  JanglachS,  Griansn, 
Painam,  &c. ;  that  although  I  would  own  to  him  that  afiber  coming 
so  far,  and  being  within  a  few  days'  journey  of  Lhasa^  I  would  be 
glad  to  go  to  that  city,  yet  it  was  on  a  yery  different  account  from 
what  Gesub  supposed;  that  my  haying  been  at  Lhasa  would, 
among  my  countrymen,  tend  to  my  credit  and  reputation,  and  I 
conceiyed  also  some  hopes  that  Gesub  Bimboch^,  after  seeing  and 
oonyersing  with  me,  would  alter  his  opinion,  and  that  his  jealousy 
would  be  remoyed.  He  said  it  was  yery  true,  but  Gesub 's  heart 
was  small  and  suspicious ;  and,  to  tell  the  truth,  he  could  not  pro- 
mise that  he  would  be  able  to  procure  his  consent,  but  I  might  send 
one  of  my  people.  "  I  will  giye  you  an  instance,''  said  he, ''  of  the 
narrowness  of  Gesub's  mind.  The  Gorkha  Bajah  has  sent  some 
yakils  with  letters  to  me  and  to  himself ;  they  are  now  at  Kuti,^  the 
frontier  town  of  Nepal :  and  Gesub,  among  other  reasons,  objects  to 
their  coming  into  Tibet  lest  they  should  learn  the  manner  of  the 
Kalmuks  fighting  on  horseback,  which  is  practised  in  this  country 
(describing  it  at  the  same  time  by  motions),  and  should  teach  it  to 
the  Gorkha  Bajah's  people."  I  replied  that  as  to  my  seryants  going 
to  Lhasa,  it  would  be  to  their  credit,  not  to  mine ;  and  as  to  giying 
me  an  account  of  the  city,  it  was  what  I  did  not  wish  to  know,  and 
that  he  might  himself  judge  of  my  indifference  on  this  subject,  from 
my  haying  been  so  long  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  having  neyer  once 
yisited  Shigatze,  a  town  in  its  neighbourhood.  To  tell  the  truth,  I 
had  restrained  my  curiosity  merely  in  order  to  counteract  the  idea  of 
my  haying  come  to  examine  and  pry  into  the  country;  for  Shigatz^ 
is  commanded  by  officers  subject  to  Lhasa.     The  Lama  upon  this 


>  This  place  is  at  the  head  of  the 
Ni-laiu  Pass,  forming  one  of  the  trade 
routes  from  Tihet  to  Nepal,  down  the 
valley  of  the  Butia  Koai.  It  was 
yisited  by  the  native  explorer  who  was 
sent  by  Colonel  Hontgomerle  in  1871. 
He  returned  from  Tibet  by  this  route, 
which  took  him  to  Kathmandu.  He 
describes  it  as  passing  through  a  fear- 
ful gorge,  where  the  road  crosses  the 
river  no  less  than  fifteen  times ;  three 


by  iron  suspension  bridges,  and  eleven 
by  wooden  bridges  24  to  60  paces  long. 
At  one  place  the  sides  of  the  gigantic 
chasm  were  so  dose  that  a  bridge  of 
24  paces  would  span  it.  Along  the 
perpendicular  wall  of  rock  a  path  is 
supported  on  iron  pegs  let  into  the 
face  of  the  rock.  Tlie  path  is  of  stone 
slabs  covered  with  earth,  only  18  inches 
wide,  a  third  of  a  mile  long,  and  1500 
feet  above  the  roaring  torrent. 


156  MR.  BOGLE  DECLINES  TO  RECEIVE  A  MAP.        [Ch.  XY. 

offered  to  give  me  a  map  of  Tibet  from  Ladak  to  the  frontier  of 
China,  with  the  names  of  places  and  their  distances.  This  was  a 
splendid  object,  and  to  obtain  it,  I  was  sensible  would  reflect  much 
lustre  on  my  commission.  But  I  considered  the  Company  could 
have  no  interest  in  this  country  but  that  of  commerce,  and  that  to 
know  a  number  of  outlandish  names  or  to  correct  the  geography  of 
Tibet,  although  a  matter  of  great  curiosity  and  extremely  interesting 
to  geographers  and  mapseUers,  was  of  no  use  to  my  constituents,  or 
indeed  to  mankind  in  general ;  and  that  to  this  I  might  be  sacri- 
ficing objects  of  far  greater  importance,  and  exciting  that  jealousy 
which  had  hitherto  so  cruelly  thwarted  me  in  all  my  negotiations. 
I  replied  therefore,  in  the  same  style  of  indifference,  after  thanking 
the  Lama  for  his  kind  offer,  that  the  situation  of  the  country,  its 
strength,  forces,  &c.,  were  of  no  concern  to  my  constituents ;  that 
the  Company  considered  Tibet  as  at  such  a  distance  firom  Bengal, 
and  separated  by  such  mountains,  the  difficulty  of  which  I  had 
but  too  well  experienced,  that  they  neyer  dreamt  of  any  danger  to 
Bengal  from  that  quarter,  and  the  same  causes,  supposing  the  Com- 
pany even  had  intentions  of  extending  their  territories,  which  their 
conduct  showed  they  had  not,  served  equally  to  ensure  Tibet  from 
any  danger  from  Bengal ;  and  that  in  taking  a  map  of  this  country 
I  would  only  afford  groond  for  GesuVs  suspicions.  He  replied  that 
Gesub  would  know  nothing  of  it.  I  told  him  that  I  could  not 
answer  for  that,  and  at  any  rate  it  was  not  an  object  with  my  con- 
stituents; that  I  would  be  glad  indeed  to  know  the  laws  and 
customs  of  Tibet,  because,  as  every  country  excelled  others  in  some 
of  these  particulars,  it  was  the  business  of  a  traveller  to  inform 
himself  of  those,  and  to  adopt  such  as  were  good  ;  and  I  would  own 
to  him  that  the  Governor  had  desired  me  to  inquire  about  their 
manners,  but  at  the  same  time  to  concern  myself  in  no  way  about 
the  strength  or  forces  of  Tibet.  He  seemed  to  be  well  satisfied 
vrith  what  1  said,  and  told  me  that  he  would  order  his  people  to 
write  down  every  particular  regarding- the  laws  and  customs  of  the 
country  that  I  wished  to  know. 

The  19th  of  January  was  the  first  of  the  holidays  at  the 
change  of  the  year.  I  went  to  see  the  ceremonies  at  church. 
Before  they  began  the  Lama  called  me  into  a  closet,  and  told  me 
that  the  Gorkha  Bajah's  vakils,  who  had  been  so  long  stopped  on 


Ch.  XV.]  THE  QORKHA  RAJAH.  157 

the  borders  of  the  country,  were  arrived ;  that  the  principal  one 
was  a  Gosain,  who  had  formerly  resided  long  in  this  country ;  that 
he  had  bronght  a  letter  fix)m  the  Qt)rkha  Bajah,  in  which  he  said 
everything  was  written,  but  it  was  in  Nagari,  and  he  had  given  it 
to  be  translated,  and  wonid  afterwards  inform  me  of  its  contents ; 
that  the  Gorkha  Bajah  therein  styled  himself  the  King  of  the 
Monntains  {ParhcU-kai-Padshah) ;  that  formerly  he  nsed  to  send 
presents  of  fruit  only,  but  upon  this  occasion  had  sent  more 
valuable  ones.  He  said  he  understood  that  the  Eerant  ^  Bajah, 
upon  his  country  being  seized  by  the  Gorkhas,  had  taken  refuge 
with  Demo  Jong ;  but  having  since,  upon  the  Gt)rkha  Bajah's 
hostilities  with  that  chief,  discovered  the  insecurity  of  his  situation, 
had  fled  towards  Pumeah.  The  Lama  then  asked  my  opinion  of 
the  Gorkha  Bajah,  and  whether  he  had  ever  attacked  the  English 
or  invaded  Bengal.  I  confessed  that  I  knew  very  little  of  him  till 
I  came  into  his  presence ;  that  from  what  he  had  been  pleased  to 
tell  me,  and  from  what  I  understood  of  the  number  of  troops  he 
kept  in  pay,  of  his  every  year  entering  into  some  new  war  and 
making  new  conquests,  and  his  late  invasion  of  Demo  Jong's  terri- 
tories, I  was  of  opinion  that  he  aimed  at  making  himself  master  of 
all  the  hilly  country ;  that  as  I  was  ignorant  of  his  purpose  in 
sending  vakils,  I  could  say  nothing  particular  about  it ;  that  if  at 
the  same  time  he  had  withdrawn  his  forces  from  Demo  Jong's 
dominions,  I  should  think  him  in  earnest  in  his  professions  of 
friendship  and  moderation ;  but  I  confessed  I  did  not  understand  a 
man  who  made  proffers  and  assurances  of  friendship  with  one  hand 
and  a  sword  in  the  other.  **  We  will  see,"  said  the  Lama.  *^  In 
the  meantime  G^sub  Bimboche  has  sent  18,000  men,  under  the 
command  of  Deb  Patza,^  together  with  a  priest  or  inferior  lama,  in 
order  to  be  prepared  either  for  war  or  peace."  He  also  told  me 
that  the  Gorkha  Bajah  was  covered  over  with  blotches  and  sores, 
and  his  health  very  bad.  The  service  began,  and  the  Lama  went 
to  church. 

On  the  19th  I  had  another  audience  of  the  Lama  at  churehy 
and  between  the  services.    He  told  me  that  Gorkha  had  written 

*  EiratB  or  Kirantis,  a  tribe  of  Eastern  Nepal,  next  to  the  Lepchas,  from 
whom  they  are  divided  by  the  River  Amn. 

*  Seep.  101. 


158  LETTER  FROM  THE  GORKHA  RAJAH.  [Gh.  XY. 

not  only  to  him,  bat  also  to  the  Dalai  Lama,  to  Gresub  Bimboch^, 
and  to  Gubshay  Pundita,  who  is  one  of  the  miniaters  at  Lhasa ; 
that  he  mentioned  in  his  letters  having  subdued  Eerant,  Murung, 
&c ;  that  he  also  wrote  that  he  did  not  wish  to  quarrel  with  this 
state,  but  if  they  had  a  mind  for  war,  he  let  them  know  he  was  well 
prepared,  and  desired  them  to  remember  that  he  was  a  Bajput; 
that  he  wanted  to  establish  factories  at  Euti,^  Eerant,  and  another 
place,  upon  the  borders  of  Tibet  and  Nepal,  where  the  merchants 
of  Tibet  might  purchase  the  commodities  of  his  country  and  those 
of  Bengal,  and  desired  their  concurrence ;  that  he  would  allow  the 
common  artides  of  commerce  to  be  transported  through  his  king- 
dom, but  no  glasses  or  other  curiosities,  and  desired  them  to  prohibit 
the  importation  of  them  also ;  that  he  desired  them  further  to  have 
no  connection  with  Fringies  or  Moghuls,  and  not  to  admit  them  into 
the  country,  but  to  follow  the  ancient  custom,  which  he  was  resolved 
likewise  to  do ;  that  a  Fringy  had  come  to  him  upon  some  business, 
and  was  now  in  his  country,  but  he  intended  to  send  him  bac^  as 
soon  as  possible,  and  desired  them  to  do  the  same  with  us ;  that  he 
had  written  also  about  circulating  his  coin,  and  had  sent  2000 
rupees  for  that  purpose.  The  Lama  then  asked  me  about  this 
Fringy  who  was  with  the  Qorkha  Bajah ;  but  being  quite  in  the 
dark  I  could  give  him  no  manner  of  information.  The  Lama  did 
not  at  this  time  desire  my  opinion  upon  the  Gorkba  Bajah's  letter, 
and  I  made  no  remarks  upon  the  subject 

On  the  26th  of  January  I  visited  the  Lama.  It  was  the  first 
day  of  the  Tibet  year.    Nothing  of  business  passed. 

Ou  the  24th  of  February  I  waited  upon  the  Lama  to  take  leave 
of  him  for  a  few  days,  which  I  proposed  to  pass  with  his  nephews 
at  their  estate  at  Binjaitzay,  which  is  about  two  days' journey  from 
Teshu  Lumbo. 

I  returned  on  the  2nd  of  March,  and  had  an  audience  of  the 
Lama  on  the  3rd.  After  congratulations  on  my  return,  and 
questions  about  the  entertainment  his  nephews  had  given  me  at 
Binjaitzay,  he  told  me  the  messenger  he  had  sent  to  Lhasa  was 
returned,  and  had  brought  him  accounts  of  Gesub  being  now  out 
of  danger ;  that  upon  his  illness  the  Chinese  officers  had  consulted 

*  At  the  head  of  the  Ki-lam  Pass  from  Kathmandu  to  Shigatze,  foUowing  the 
coarse  of  the  Bntia  Kosl    (See  note  at  p.  155.) 


On.  XTO  DEATH  OF  THE  GOBKHA  BAJAH.  159 

some  conjarois  oouoenung  his  fote,  who  had  given  an  oracular 
answer ;  that  they  had  despatched  messengers  to  Peking  with  the 
acconnts  of  his'  being  dangerously  ill ;  that  extreme  unction  was 
perfinrmed  on  him,  and  he  remained  several  days  with  his  eyes  fixed 
on  the  ground,  and  in  a  manner  insensible,  but  the  violence  of  his 
disease  having  abated  he  was  able  to  walk  about  the  room,  though 
not  to  apply  to  business.  The  Lama  further  told  me  that  the  report 
of  Gbrkha  Bajah's  death  was  confirmed,  and  that  he  had  received 
letters  from  Lhasa  giving  an  account  of  it,  which  was  corroborated 
by  the  advices  of  Gosains  and  Kashmiris;  that  three  wives  and 
six  concubines  had  burnt  themselves  at  his  funeral,  and  that  Sing 
f  ertab,^  his  son,  had  succeeded  him  in  the  government.  The  Lama 
further  informed  me  that  news  was  received  at  Lhasa  of  the  Chinese 
having  at  length  by  means  of  an  immense  army  subdued  Bibdyen 
Gyripo  (the  rebellious  chief  who,  with  a  few  thousand  brave  adherents, 
had  defended  himself  and  his  hill-bound  country  against  the  united 
power  of  the  Chinese  empire)  ;  that  they  had  approached  almost  to 
the  capital  of  his  province,  by  roads  which  they  made  through  the 
mountains  with  immense  labour,  when  the  Kampa  chief  in  despair 
threw  himself  from  the  walls.^  He  told  me  also  that  the  Dalai 
Lama  was  next  year  to  proceed  to  Peking  to  wait  upon  the  Emperor. 
My  part  of  the  conversation  need  not  be  put  down. 

On  the  18th  of  March  I  had  a  visit  from  the  Nepal  vakil.  I 
told  him  that  I  heard  from  everybody  of  Goikha's  death,  and 
inquired  if  he  had  received  any  accounts  of  it.  He  said  he  had 
none,  and  that  he  had  therefore  not  ordered  the  Newars  (natives  of 
Nepal)  to  shave  their  beards  and  eyebrows.  He  spoke  of  it,  how- 
ever, as  a  thing  there  was  no  doubt  o£  He  said  some  of  the  Gorkha 
Bajah's  Sepoys  had  come  to  Kuti,^  and  that  Gesub  Bimboche  was 
offended  at  it,  and  had  written  to  the  Lama,  who  had  spoken  of 
it  to  him ;  that  he  had  told  the  Lama  that  it  was  to  teach  the 
Bhutanese  troops  their  exercise ;  but  the  Lama  replied  they  wanted 
to  learn  no  new  rules. 

>  The  Bajah  Pertab  Sing  Sah  deya  chuen  proyince,  -who,  though  few  in 

died  in  1775.    HiB  son,  who  reigned  nmnber,  defended  theniBeWes  to   the 

from  1775  to  1816,  was  Girwan  Tudh  last.    The  revenge  the  Emperor  took 

Vikrama  Sah  deva.  upon  the  leader  was  dreadful.    (Gntz- 

'  This   was   a   rebellion   of    some  Uff/Ghina  Opened,' i.  p.  361.) 

Turpan  or  Tibetan  tribes  in  the  8ze-  *  See  note  at  p.  155. 


160  THE  RUSSIANS.  [Ch.  XV. 

I  had  no  opporhinity  of  waiting  upon  the  Lama  till  the  15th  of 
March.  He  told  me  that  he  had  been  so  much  engaged  with  some 
Ealmuks,  and  had  so  much  to  write  on  their  account,  that  he  had 
not  been  able  to  see  me  sooner ;  that  several  years  ago  a  tribe  of 
Tatars,  who  were  subject  to  Russia,  had  gone  over  to  the  Chinese, 
and  that  the  Emperor  of  China  had  formerly  written  to  him  of 
this,  feUcitating  himself  on  his  good  fortune  in  it;  that  the 
Bussians  had  since  sent  four  ambassadors  to  China  to  demand  their 
vassals,  whom  the  Emperor  had  imprisoned ;  and,  as  I  understood 
him,  had  also  confined  some  other  Bussian  subjects  who  were  after- 
wards sent  upon  the  same  errand,  and  to  request  the  release  of 
their  countrymen.  The  Bussians  had  not  yet  begun  hostilities,  but 
he  imagined  they  would  soon  go  to  war  about  it.  I  told  him  that 
as  the  Bussians  were  engaged  in  a  very  heavy  war  with  the  Turks, 
which  I  was  uncertain  whether  they  had  yet  finished,  I  supposed 
they  would  hardly  think  of  entering  into  another  with  the  Chinese, 
and  encountering  two  such  powerful  neighbours  at  the  same  time ; 
but  as  soon  as  they  had  made  peace  with  the  Sultan  of  Bum  I 
made  no  doubt  of  their  resenting  the  conduct  of  the  Chinese  in  a 
very  high  strain ;  that  the  present  sovereign  of  Bussia,  although  a 
woman,  was  extremely  able  and  active)  going  in  person  to  review 
her  forces,  receiving  all  ambassadors,  and  inspecting  every  depart- 
ment of  government  herself;  that  the  Bussians  were  also  a  very 
hardy  and  warlike  people,  and  capable  of  great  efforts,  and  I 
doubted  whether  the  Chinese  would  be  able  to  cope  with  their 
troops,  who  had  been  so  long  accustomed  to  actual  and  very  severe 
service.  He  replied  that  it  was  very  true ;  that  former  emperors 
would  have  weighed  these  circumstances,  but  the  present  one  was 
too  violent  and  too  fond  of  war  to  listen  to  advice,  and  was  besides 
offended  at  the  Bussians  for  the  refage  they  had  accorded  to  the 
Tsungars,  a  tribe  of  Tatars  whom  he  had  subdued ;  that  things 
must  now  take  their  course,  and  he  was  a&aid  that  no  representa- 
tions of  his  or  of  his  friend,  the  Lama  of  Peking,  could  prevent 
a  war. 

On  the  27th  of  March  some  Kashmiri  merchants  came  to  me, 
and  after  presenting  silk  handkerchiefs,  according  to  the  custom  of 
the  country,  informed  me  that  they  waited  upon  me  in  consequence 
of  the  Tjama's  orders ;  that  he  had  written  to  their  constituents  at 


■ 

I 


Cb.  XY.]       interview  with  KABHMIBI  MEBOHANTS.  161 

Lhasa  (for  these  at  Shigatz^  are  only  agents),  acquainting  them 
that  the  Goyemor  had  written  to  him,  and  that  I  had  represented  to 
him  thd  Governor's  desire  of  opening  the  oommeroe  between  Tibet 
and  Bengal,  so  that  merchants  might  freely  trade  between  the  one 
kingdom  and  the  other ;  that  the  trade  which  was  formerly  carried 
on  through  Nepal  by  the  many  Kashmiri  houses  settled  there  had 
been  greatly  obstmcted  by  the  oppression  of  the  Gorkha  Bajah,  and 
that  he,  therefore,  advised  them  to  send  their  gumasUaB  into  Bengal, 
through  the  Deb  Bajah's  country ;  that  the  Governor  had  engaged 
to  give  them  every  assistance  and  protection,  and  that  he,  on  his 
part,  was  always  ready  to  encourage  merchants  and  trade.  Whether 
aU  this  was  in  his  letter,  or  spoken  by  the  Lama  himself,  I  cannot 
say,  for  they  told  me  further  that  they  had  waited  upon  the  Lama, 
and  he  had  desired  them  to  come  to  me.  I  told  them  that  the 
Governor  had  indeed  desired  me  to  represent  to  the  Lama  how 
much  the  trade  with  Bengal  had  declined  of  late  years,  owing  to 
causes  with  which  they  were  well  acquainted,  and  to  request  his 
assistance  in  restoring  it;  and  that  the  Lama  had  been  good 
enough  to  promise  his  best  endeavours  for  that  purpose.  I  then 
explained  to  them  the  steps  which  had  been  taken  in  Bengal  for 
the  ease  of  merchants  by  abolishing  the  ancient  chokies  and 
exactions  upon  trade ;  by  fixing  the  duties  at  only  two  rupees  in 
the  hundred,  and  by  granting  every  protection  and  encouragement 
to  the  merchants;  that  if  they  choose  to  send  gummktas  into 
Bengal  I  could  venture  to  assure  them  of  the  Governor's  readiness  to 
grant  .them  every  security  and  assistance;  that  the  only  difficulty  was 
the  road  by  which  they  were  to  get  to  Bengal ;  that  I  understood 
they  were  all  a&aid  of  trusting  themselves  in  Nepal,  to  which 
Murung^  and  B^pur^  were  now  subject;  that  the  Deb  Bajah's 
country  only  remained,  who  had  granted  permission  of  transporting 
goods  through  his  territories  only  to  one  or  two  merchants ;  that  I 
had  mentioned  the  subject  to  him  but  very  slightly,  reserving  it 
till  after  I  had  waited  upon  and  received  the  order  of  the  Lama,  to 
whom  I  was  sent ;  that,  for  my  part,  I  should  use  every  argument 
and  every  means  with  the  Deb  Bajah  in  order  to  obtain  his  con- 
sent ;  that  I  trusted  to  the  Lama's  seconding  my  applications,  and 
was  in  hopes  they  might  be  crowned  with  success ;  but  could  not 

*  See  note  at  p.  65.  '  See  note  at  p.  150. 

M 


162  THE  KASHMIRI  MBROHANTB.  [Gh.  XY. 

pionuse  ^th  oertainty  as  to  the  determinatiaQ  of  people  with 
whom  I  was  but  little  acquainted* 

They  lepUed,  that  from  the  Lama's  oonyersation  and  assmnnoes 
they  had  little  donbt  of  obtaining  the  Deb  Bajah's  pennission  to 
pass  through  his  kingdom;  and  that  after  the  unsuooessful  war 
which  the  Bhutanese  had  carried  on,  and  haying  their  country 
restored  to  them,  they  imagined  the  Deb  Bajah  would  be  very 
ready  to  comply  with  any  demand  on  the  part  of  the  Company,  as 
he  would  be  afraid,  in  case  of  refusal,  that  the  English  would  again 
invade  his  territory,  and  concluded  with  saying  that  I  might 
threaten  bim  upon  this  score.  I  told  them  I  had  no  power  to  use 
such  language  to  him,  and  that  whatever  I  did  with  the  Deb  Bajah 
must  be  by  peaceable  and  friendly  means ;  that  the  Company,  in 
consequence  of  the  Lama's  letter  to  the  (jovemor,  had  restored  the 
Deb  Bajah's  country,  and  entered  into  a  treaty  of  peace  with  him, 
which,  according  to  the  maxims  of  the  English  Government,  would, 
on  the  part  of  my  constituents,  remain  for  ever  inviolate.  They 
observed  that  the  Gorkha  Bajah  was  nowdead;^  that  they  hoped  his 
son  would  be  more  favourable  to  merchants ;  and  in  case  of  the  Deb 
Bajah's  refusal,  that  the  Governor's  application  to  the  new  Bajah  of 
Nepal,  Sing  Pertab,^  would  certainly  procure  them  a  free  passage. 
I  said  as  I  was  unacquainted  with  Sing  Pertab's  character  or  ttie 
measures  he  intended  to  pursue,  I  could  say  nothing  upon  this  sub- 
ject ;  that  if  he  followed  the  footsteps  of  his  father,  made  promises 
and  oaths  only  to  break  them,  and  engaged  in  perpetual  wars,  it  was 
difficult  for  my  constituents  to  enter  into  friendship  or  negotiations 
-with  him ;  that  if  he  contented  himself  with  the  peacefal  possession 
of  his  own  dominions  the  Governor  could  then  send  a  vakil  and  solicit 
his  protection  and  encouragement  to  merchants ;  but  that  in  this, 
as  well  as  everything  which  regarded  the  hills  which  separate 
Bengal  from  Tibet,  I  imagined  he  would  be  greatly  influenced  by 
the  opinion  of  the  Lama,  whose  character  and  abilities  enable  him 
so  well  to  judge  of  the  measures  to  be  pursued  with  the  chiefe  to 
whom  they  are  subject.    I  then  asked  them  when  they  proposed  to 

1  This  was  Pertab  Sing  Sah  deva,  was  deposed  by  the  nobles  in  1800. 

who  died  in  1775.  Then  followed  Girwan  Yudh  Yikiama 

'  The  deceased  Bajah  was  succeeded  Sah  deya,  who  reigned  ontil  1816. 
by  a  Regent  named  Bahadur  Sah,  who 


Oh.  XV.]   INTERVIEW  WITH  THE  TIBETAN  MERCHANTS.  163 

send  their  gwMisktas  to  Bengal.  They  told  me  after  the  rains, 
and  applied  to  me  for  letters  to  the  people  on  the  borders  of  Bengal, 
as  they  were  entirely  strangers  there.  I  promised  them  letters  to 
some  of  my  aoqoaintances,  and  that  if  they  chose  it  I  would  request 
the  Gbvemor  to  write  to  the  Eilladars  on  the  frontiet  proyinces  to 
afford  them  every  necessary  assistance ;  but  that  in  Bengal  merchants 
were  always  well  received,  and  had  nothing  to  fear.  They  seemed 
to  wish  however  for  passports.  I  recollect  nothing  further  of  con- 
sequence that  passed.  Before  they  went  away  they  desired  that  I 
would  inform  the  Lama  of  their  having  visited  me  in  obedience  to 
his  orders. 

On  the  29th  of  March  about  a  dozen  of  the  principal  Tibetan 
merchants  paid  me  a  visit.  They  deal  principally  in  tea,  some  of 
them  to  the  extent  of  two  or  three  lakhs  a  year,  though  one  would 
not  suspect  it  &om  their  raiment.  They  also  told  me  they  came  to 
me  in  consequence  of  the  Lama's  orders  ;  they  mentioned  having 
received  a  letter  from  him  while  at  Desheripgay,  advising  them  to 
send  gumaMaa  to  Bengal,  and  that  he  had  likewise  spoken  to  them 
to  the  same  purpose  since  his  arrival  at  Teshu  Lumbo.  They  said 
that  being  bom  in  a  cold  country  they  were  a&aid  of  going  into  a 
hot  one ;  that  their  people  would  die  in  Bengal ;  that  they  had  it 
from  tradition  that  about  eight  hundred  years  ago  the  people  of  this 
country  used  to  travel  into  Bengal,  but  that  eight  out  of  ten  died 
before  their  return;  that  the  Kashmiris  and  Gosains  travelled 
into  different  countries,  but  that  they  could  not.  I  replied,  that 
I  could  only  promise  them  the  protection  and  assistance  of  the 
Gbvemment  of  Bengal ;  that  the  climate  was  in  the  hand  of  God; 
and  after  giving  them  an  account  of  the  climate  of  Bengal 
during  the  cold  weather,  I  told  them  that  if  they  were  afraid  of 
sending  their  servants  thither,  the  Kashmiris  and  Qosains  would 
supply  them  with  what  they  wanted,  and  it  was  the  same  thing  to 
B^gal  and  to  the  inhabitants  of  Tibet.  I  enlarged  on  the  Lama's 
desire  of  preserving  peace  in  the  world,  and  of  promoting  the  trade 
of  merchants  and  the  happiness  of  mankind,  and  they  in  their 
turn  praised  the  free  and  equitable  government  of  the  English, 
which  they  said  the  Lama  had  informed  them  of. 

As  some  of  them  were  very  old  men,  I  asked  them  what 
proportion  they  supposed  the  commodities  now  imported  from 

M  2 


164  RETREAT  OP  TIBETAN  TROOPS  FROM  SIKKIM.    [Oh.  XV, 

Bengal  bore  to  that  of  former  times.  They  would  not  mention  any 
fixed  proportion,  bnt  said  that  formerly  great  quantities  of  coral, 
broadcloth,  Ssc,  used  to  come  through  Nepal,  but  now  what  was 
brought  was  principally  by  the  fakirs,  who  smuggled  it  into  the 
country.  They  added  that  as  to  this  country,  people  imagined 
from  gold  being  produced  in  it  that  it  was  extremely  rich,  but  this 
was  not  the  case,  and  that  if  extraordinary  quantities  of  gold  were 
sent  to  Bengal  the  Emperor  of  China,  who  was  sovereign  of  the 
country,  would  be  displeased  at  it.  I  repUed  that  the  trade  between 
Tibet  and  Bengal  was  no  new  thing,  and  had  been  carried  on  for 
many  hundred  years ;  that  the  conquest  of  Nepal  by  the  Gorkha 
Bajeli  had  put  a  stop  to  it ;  and  that  the  Goyemor  only  wished 
to  see  it  restored  to  the  same  state  as  formerly.  They  seemed 
highly  pleased  with  this,  and,  after  desiring  me  to  report  their 
visit  to  the  Lama,  took  their  leave. 

I  paid  a  short  visit  to  the  Lama  on  the  Ist  of  April.    He  said 
that  Ctesub  Bimboche's  administration  was  near  an  end,  and  that 
he  wished,  when  the  Dalai  Lama  came  of  age,  that  the  Governor 
would  send  an  embassy  to  him.    He  said  he  proposed,  if  a  place  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges  was  granted  him,  to  place  the  Gosain, 
who  was  down  in  Calcutta,  there ;  "  and,*'  says  he,  "  if  he  should 
stand  in  need  of  any  small  matter,  I  trust  you  will  supply  him."' 
I  asked  him  about  what  part  of  the  country  he  wished  it  to  be. 
He  said  that  he  would  like  it  to  be  near  Calcutta,  that  the  people 
he  sent  down  might  have  an  opportunity  of  waiting  on  the 
Governor,  but  he  would  leave  it  to  the  Governor  and  the  pundits, 
only  to  be  near  the  Ganges.    He  told  me  that  the  troops  under 
the  command  of  Deb  Patza  had  returned,  as  they  were  unable  to 
proceed  on  account  of  the  great  quantities  of  snow,  which  rendered 
the  road  impassable ;  that  Gesub  Bimboche  was  very  angry  with  the 
commander  and  had  ordered  him  to  return.     He  said  that  he  had 
also  received  a  letter  from  the  commander  of  the  Gorkha  troops, 
mentioning  that  he  intended  to  desist  from  war  on  account  of  bis 
master's  death,  and  proposing  a  truce  for  three  years.     The  Lama 
then   gave   me   a  Persian  paper  coutaining   some   memoranda, 
which  he  said  he  wished  me  to  keep  in  mind.    He  also  gave  me 
some  garden  seeds  and  a  view  of  Teshu  Lumbo.     These  last  gave 
rise  to  a  conversation  which  lasted  till  the  end  of  my  visit 


Ch.  XV.]  GOBKHA  AGGRESSIONS.  165 

On  the  3rd  of  April  I  waited  on  the  Lama  to  take  my  pnhlio 
leave  of  him.  He  sent  first  to  speak  to  me  in  priyate.  I  told  him 
I  had  read  the  Persian  paper  he  had  been  pleased  to  give  me.  He 
recapitcdated  the  points  which  it  contained ;  he  mentioned  what  he 
had  formerly  said  about  the  Lama  at  Peking ;  that  he  hoped  the 
Emperor  wonld  put  the  govemment  of  the  country  in  the  same 
manner  as  formerly  in  the  hands  of  the  Dalai  Lama,  "  and  then,** 
says  he,  *'  I  shall  have  no  difficulty  in  carrying  any  point  that  the 
Govemor  pleases,  and  hope  to  settle  it  so  with  the  Emperor  that  the 
Goyemor  may  send  his  people  to  Peking,  and,  if  he  pleases,  establish 
English  jGeictories;  but  at  present,  while  the  administration  is  in 
CksuVs  hands,  he  and  the  Ambas^  are  excessiyely  jealous  of 
foreigners  coming  into  the  country,  so  much  so  that  he  stopped  the 
admission  of  a  yakil  from  the  King  of  Assam,  and  you  know  the 
difficulty  I  had  about  your  coming.  Li  regard  to  the  house 
which  I  wish  to  haye  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,"  continued  the 
Lama,  '^  I  propose  that  Purungir,  who  was  down  in  Calcutta,  should 
settle  it.  I  do  not  wish  it  to  be  a  large  house,  and  let  it  be  built 
in  the  &shion  of  Bengal."  I  begged  him  to  giye  Purungir 
instructions  about  it,  which  he  said  he  would  do.  "Purungir," 
says  he,  "has  seryed  me  yery  well,  and  I  haye  not  found  him 
guilty  of  BO  many  lies  as  most  other  fakirs,  and  I  hope  the  Qt>yemor 
will  show  him  fSEiyour.  The  old  Gt)6ain,  Suk-Debu,  has  also  asked 
me  leave  to  go  down  to  Calcutta ;  he  will  accompany  you ;  and  I 
haye  also  written  to  the  Goyemor  about  him,  and  I  hope  he  will 
fia.your  him."  I  then  asked  him  about  Bijapik,  whi6h  I  had  men- 
tioned at  a  former  meeting,  and  begged  to  know  his  opinion  as  to 
the  answer  I  should  give  the  Deb  Bajah  in  case  he  spoke  to  me  on 
that  subject,  and  also  that  I  might  represent  it  to  the  Governor. 
"  I  have  already,"  says  he^  "  written  to  Sing  Pertab,  telling  him 
that  his  father  treacherously  and  unjustly  made  himself  master  of 
Bijapur,  and  as  I  have  heard  a  fitvourable  character  of  him,  I 
hope  he  wiU  restore  it  to  the  Deb  Bajah,  its  rightful  possessor.  I 
have  also  advised  him  to  send  a  vakil  to  Calcutta ;  as  yet  I  am 
ignorant  what  answer  he  wiU  return ;  but  if  the  Deb  appUes  to  you 
about  Bijapur,  I  think  you  should  tell  him  that  you  understand  from 
me  that  I  had  written  on  the  subject,  and  in  case  I  receive  no 

>  Chinefle  resident  offldaU. 


166 


TIBETAN  CHRONOLOOY.    RUSSIA. 


[Ch.  XV. 


nnfavoTirable  answer,  then  tiie  Goyemor  may,  if  he  pleaaeei,  write 
to  Sing  Pertab  about  it." 

I  repeated  his  words,  to  be  sure  that  I  understood  them  right. 
He  then  asked  me  if  I  had  any  request  to  make  to  him.  I  said  I 
had  before  mentioned  to  him  how  fond  the  Goyemor  was  of  strange 
animals,  and  he  had  been  so  good  as  to  send  some ;  but  there  were 
two  wild  ones  in  this  country  which  could  not  be  sent  unless  they 
were  reared  and  tamed  when  young,  the  one  was  the  musk  goat, 
the  other  the  tiis,  and  I  knew  how  much  he  would  oblige  the 
Goyemor  by  giying  orders  for  this  purpose,  and  sending  them 
down  to  Bengal  in  the  cold  weather.  Says  he,  "  I  wiU  order  the 
musk  goats  to  be  caught  and  giyen  to  you  on  the  road."  I  thanked 
him,  but  said  it  was  impossible  to  keep  them  aliye  unless  preriously 
tamed.  ''  Well,"  says  he,  "  I  will  giye  orders  about  the  animala, 
and  send  some  of  them  down  by  my  people  after  the  rains ;  and  if 
there  are  any  others  or  anything  in  this  country  which  the 
Goyemor  wishes  to  haye,  write  to  me  about  it." 

My  next  request  was  to  procure  a  list  of  all  the  comets,  with 
the  dates  of  their  appearances,  from  the  earliest  period  of  the 
Chinese  history ;  which,  after  some  inquiries  about  comets,  and 
telling  me  that  they  expected  one  in  six  years,  he  promised  to  do, 
and  to  write  to  the  great  Lama  of  Peking  about  it.  He  told  me 
also  that,  from  the  first  of  the  Chinese  kings  till  Hrondzain  Gambo,^ 
who  reigned  in  Tibet  about  eight  hundred  years  ago,  they  reckoned 
20,000  years.  After  this  he  asked  about  Bussia,  and  if  the  King 
of  England  l^d  much  to  say  with  the  Empress.  I  told  him  he 
had  more  influence  at  the  Court  of  Bussia  than  any  other  prince  in 
Europe,  although  their  kingdoms  were  separated  at  a  great  distance 
from  one  another.  Says  he,  '*  I  am  glad  of  it,  for  in  the  eyent  of 
a  war  between  Bussia  and  China,  I  may  perhaps  be  able,  through 
means  of  the  Company,  to  do  something  towards  bringing  about  a 


*  This  would  be  Srong-tsan-gambo  of 
the  list  given  in  the  Tibetan  grammar 
of  Gsoma  de  Koros,  from  a  work  written 
at  Lhasa  in  1686  (p.  181) ;  who  is  said  to 
hare  been  bom  in  627  ▲.d.  Georgi's 
list,  in  the  *Alphabetum  Tibetanum' 
(p.  297),  oontains  a  similar  name, 
Tzhong-tzheng-'ChambOf  as  of  a  king  who 
is,  however,  said  to  have  lived  much 


earlier,  in  about  60  a.d.  He  removed 
the  seat  of  government  to  the  part  oi 
Tibet  where  Lhasa  was  afte^ards 
founded.  He  built  a  palace  on  the 
hiU  where  the  monastery  of  Potala 
now  stands,  and  died  after  a  reign  of 
ninety  years.  He  is  the  twenty-fooith 
king  of  Tibet  of  Georgi's  list. 


Oh.  XY.]  MISSIONABIES.    ENGLISH  AT  OANTON.  167 

peace,  and  that  is  the  bnsineaB  of  us  Lamas.'*  He  then  laid  before 
me  his  presents  to  the  Governor,  and  showed  me  his  letter  before 
he  sealed  it.  After  this  he  gave  them  to  me  in  charge.  I  asked  if  he 
did  not  intend  to  entrust  them  to  the  Gosain ;  but  he  desired  me  to 
take  them,  and  I  accordingly  accepted  them.  '^They  are  very 
trifling,"  says  he,  ''but  what  can  I  send  from  this  country?" 
After  giving  me  presents  of  some  silks,  purses  of  gold  dust,  sUver 
talents,  &c.,  and  clothing  me  in  a  fine  khilat,  he  took  a  bit  of  red 
silk,  and  tying  a  knot  upon  it  himself  he  threw  it  about  my  neck 
with  his  own  hands.  I  then  had  my  public  leave,  but  was  to  wait 
upon  him  again  in  private. 

On  the  4th  of  April  I  again  waited  upon  the  Lama.  His  room 
was  hung  round  with  festoons  of  painted  paper  intermixed  with  the 
figures  of  his  deities.  It  was  on  account  of  some  religious  holiday. 
He  asked  me  a  great  deal  about  our  religion.  As  I  am  not  sent 
to  convert  unbelieving  nations  it  is  a  subject  I  seldom  enter  upon, 
and  I  gave  such  answers  as  turned  the  conversation.  He  asked 
me  also  particularly  about  the  missionary  Padres,  who  had  been 
in  this  country,  and  when  expelled  had  settled  in  Nepal.^  I 
repeated  to  him  what  I  had  formerly  mentioned,  that  I  imagined 
they  came  &om  Italy,  as  there  were  some  of  that  nation  now  at 
Patna ;  that  their  rehgion  differed  from  ours,  and  ih  nothing  more 
than  in  their  intolerant  spirit  and  desire  of  bringing  all  the  world 
to  their  own  opinions,  whereas  every  religion  was  allowed  in 
England,  and  good  men  of  every  faith  respected.  He  told  me  that 
the  missionaries  were  expelled  Tibet  about  forty  years  ago,  on 
account  of  some  disputes  with  the  {akits. 

After  this  he  asked  me  about  the  English  settlement  at  Canton, 
and  whether  any  Englishmen  had  ever  gone  to  Peking.  In  answer 
I  gave  him  an  account  of  the  trade  between  England  and  China. 
I  told  him  that  I  believed  that  no  Englishman  had  ever  gone  to 
Peking.  ''Not  one?"  says  he.  I  replied  that  many  years  since 
an  English  physician^  had  gone  when  very  young  into  the  service 
of  Bussia,  and  accompanied  an  ambassador  who  was  sent  about 

>  Whence  they  were  expelled  by  the  burg,  in  Russia,  to  Tarions  parts  of  Asia, 

Gorkha  Bajah.  They  went  from  Kath-  by  John  Bell,  of  Antermony/  i.  p.  157. 

mandu  to  Betiah,  in  Ohamparan,  where  This  work  was  published  at  Glasgow  in 

they  now  are  settled  with  their  flock.  1763,  and  was,  no  doubt,  well  known  to 

*  Bell.    See  *  Travels  from  St..  Peters-  Mr.  Bogle. 


168  GENERAL  C50NVERSATI0N  WITH  THE  LAMA.      [Ch.  XV. 

fifty  years  ago  to  the  Emperor,  bat  I  neyer  heard  of  any  other. 
''  I  will  endeavour/'  says  he,  "  through  the  means  of  the  Lama  at 
Peking,  to  get  permission  for  the  English  to  go  to  the  Emperor  ; 
-whether  I  shall  be  able  to  carry  this  point  or  not  I  cannot  say,  but 
I  will  afterwards  write  to  the  Grovemor  how  I  have  succeeded."  I 
expressed  my  acknowledgments  how  much  it  would  tend  to  the 
Company's  satiafEu^tion,  and  how  happy  I  was  conyinced  it  would 
make  the  (Governor. 

''  The  Russians  and  Chinese,"  says  he,  "  are  at  present  on  bad 
terms.  If  any  of  the  former  go  to  Peking,  I  am  told  they  are 
not  admitted  into  the  Emperor's  presence  without  being  searched, 
on  account  of  a  Chinese  man  haying  been  some  time  ago  killed  by 
a  Russian  who  concealed  a  pistol  within  his  sleeve."  After  this  I 
reported  to  him  a  conversation  that  had  passed  between  me  and 
Ghauduri,  on  which  he  made  no  observations,  except  that  the 
Hindus  were  fond  of  appearing  of  consequence,  aiid  scrupled  not 
to  tell  falsehoods.  He  then  showed  me  the  images  and  the  dress 
which  he  intended  to  send  down  to  Bengal  by  the  Gosain,  in  order 
to  be  put  up  in  the  temple  which  he  proposes  to  build  on  the  banks 
of  the  Ganges.  He  desired  me  to  inquire  particularly  about  the 
situation  of  a  town  called  Shambul,  about  which  he  said  the 
pundits  of  Bengal  would  be  able  to  inform  me.  I  recollect  nothing 
further. 

Next  day  I  waited  upon  the  Lama,  Dr.  Hamilton  was  with  me, 
and  he  inquired  a  great  deal  about  the  method  of  treating  the 
smallpox  in  England,  and  described  the  fatal  effects  of  the  disease 
in  Tibet.  It  is  unnecessary  to  insert  what  passed  on  this  subject. 
He  showed  me  about  five  or  six  watches  which  had  come  overland 
to  him.  They  had  chiefly  German  or  Dutch  names  upon  them, 
and  were  all  except  one  out  of  order.  This  gave  rise  to  a  con- 
versation on  watches,  which  it  is  also  needless  to  put  down.  He 
desired  me  to  speak  English,  and  I  repeated  some  verses  of  Gi&y's 
*'  Elegy  in  a  Country  Churchyard."  I  mention  these  things  only 
because  they  serve  to  mark  his  character. 

On  the  6th  of  April  I  again  waited  upon  the  Lama.  Soon 
after  my  entrance  his  servants  who  were  to  accompany  me  came 
in  to  take  their  leave,  and  bad  their  heads  touched  according  to 
the  custom  of  the  country  and  their  respective  ranks.    ^' These 


Ch.  XV.]  JEALOUSY  OF  GESUB  RIMBOCHfi.  169 

people,"  said  he,  '^  are  to  acoompany  yon  as  £ar  as  Buza-Duar,  but 
the  weather  is  now  becoming  so  hot  that  everyone  is  afraid  to 
go  to  Bengal  As  soon  as  the  rains  are  oyer,  I  will  send  down 
some  gylongs  ^  to  Calcutta  to  wait  upon  the  Qoyemor,  and  to  visit 
the  reUgious  places  in  Bengal,  and  will  write  to  the  Governor  by 
them.  I  have  spoken  to  you  about  getting  me  two  Uons'  skins,  a 
crocodile,  and  some  other  things ;  pray  how  do  you  propose  to 
send  them?"  I  said,  I  thought  of  transmitting  them  to  the  Buxa 
Subah,  who  would  forward  them  to  him.  "The  Deb  Bajah's 
people,"  says  he,  "  will  make  mistakes,  and  you  had  better  give 
them  to  my  people  on  their  return  to  Bengal."  He  then  asked  me 
how  I  imagined  the  Governor  intended  to  send  his  despatches  to 
him.  I  said  that  as  to  any  orders  he  (the  Lama)  had  given  me,  or 
any  letters  he  might  have  to  forward  to  him,  that  I  would  £>llow 
his  directions  as  to  the  manner  of  transmitting  them ;  but  I  con- 
ceived the  Governor  could  not  entrust  his  letters  or  presents  but 
to  his  own  servants,  who  would  bring  them  into  his  own  presence. 
Says  he,  '^  I  will  be  plain  with  you.  I  wish  the  Governor  would 
not  at  present  send  an  Englishman.  You  know  what  difficulties  I 
had  about  your  coming  into  the  country,  and  how  I  had  to  struggle 
with  the  jealousy  of  Gesub  Bimboche  and  the  people  ^  at  Lhasa. 
Even  now  they  are  uneasy  at  my  having  kept  you  with  me  so 
long.  I  could  wish,  therefore,  that  the  Governor  would  rather 
send  a  Hindu.  I  am  in  hopes  my  letter  to  the  Lama  will  have  a 
good  effect  in  removing  this  jealousy,  and  I  expect  in  a  year  or 
two  that  the  Government  of  this  country  will  be  in  Dalai  Lama's 
hands,  when  I  will  inform  the  Governor,  and  he  may  then  send  an 
Englishman  to  me  and  to  the  Dalai  Lama.  But  Gesub  is  so  very 
suspicious,  and  looks  upon  you  so  much  as  come  to  spy  the  country, 
that  I  shall  have  great  difficulty  about  another  Englishman 
coming."  I  promised  to  represent  all  this  to  the  Governor,  for  I 
was  sensible  of  the  truth  of  what  he  said ;  but  I  at  the  same  time 
used  some  arguments  in  order  to  show  how  ill-grounded  this 
jealousy  was ;  though  I  must  confess,  while  I  used  them,  I  did  it 

>  Oylong  or  gelung  is  equivalent  to  a  shadow  of  reason  for  supposing  that 

the  Hindustani  hhik»hu,  a  mendicant ;  popular  jealousy  had  or  has  anything 

hhtkh^  alms.  to  do  with  the  matter. 

3  l*hat  is,  the  officials.    There  is  not 


170  WAR  IN  YUNNAN.  [Ch.  XV. 

more  to  enable  him  to  ayail  himself  of  them  with  others  than  from 
any  idea  that  he  harboured  these  nnjnst  suspicions  himself  I 
concluded  by  telling  hinkthat  if  the  Goyemor  had  entertained  any 
intentions  that  were  unfriendly,  he  never  would  have  sent  me 
into  this  country,  and  that  whateyer  faults  the  English  might 
haye,  all  the  world  knew  that  treachery  was  not  among  thenu 
I  promised,  however,  to  represent  to  the  G-ovemor  what  he  had 
desired  me. 

Upon  this  he  asked  me  if  I  had  had  any  further  conversation 
with  tixe  Ghauduri.  I  replied  not ;  that  I  had  told  the  Ghauduii  in 
all  matters  to  apply  to  the  Lama,  who  was  best  acquainted  with  the 
affairs  of  Bengal  and  the  state  of  Hindustan.  He  seemed  pleased 
with  this.  "  Gesub,"  says  he,  "  now  goyems  the  country,  but  his 
administration  is,  I  imagine,  near  an  end.  The  Governor  is  a 
great  man,  and  the  Company  now  are  sovereigns  of  Hindustan.  I 
should  like  to  open  a  connection  between  them  and  the  Emperor  of 
China ;  but  G^ub  was  formerly  and  will  now  be  again  a  little  man : 
it  would  serve  no  purpose  to  do  it  with  him."  These  sentiments 
are  different  from  what  the  Lama  expressed  in  a  previous  conversa- 
tion ;  but  I  imagine  the  reports  of  Gesub's  endeavours  to  continue 
the  government  in  the  hands  of  his  own  family ;  his  intention, 
which  I  am  informed  of,  to  put  Deb  Judhur  to  death  before  the 
Lama  should  know  of  it,  and  perhaps  other  circumstances  of  which 
I  am  ignorant,  had  served  to  render  him  very  cool  Tvith  regard  to 
Gesub. 

The  Lama  then  changed  the  subject.     "I  formerly  told  you," 
says  he,  '^  how  the  Chinese  were  engaged  in  a  war  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Yunnan  with  a  Bajah  to  the  southward  of  it    The 
Emperor  wrote  to  me  to  endeavour  to  procure  inteUigenoe  about 
him,  but  none  of  our  people  are  allowed  to  go  into  those  countries, 
and  I  ms  unable  to  give  him  any  infonnation.    When  yon  return 
to  Bengal  I  wish  you  would  inquire  about  this  Bajah  and  write  to 
me."    I  repUed  that  if  it  was  the  King  of  Pegu  I  did  not  despair 
of  procuring  him  some  intelUgence,  but  if  it  was  any  of  the  in- 
terior Bajahs  who  was  at  war  with  the  Emperor  it  might  not  be  in 
my  power,  but  he  might  depend  on  my  inquiries."    Says  he,  **I 
wonder  you  never  heard  of  this  war  in  Bengal"    I  represented  the 
situation  of  Pegu  with  respect  to  Bengal,  and  how  little  interest 


Ch.  XV.]  FAREWELL  TO  THE  LAHA.  171 

we  bad  in  anything  that  was  passing  in  that  oonntry.  He  asked 
me  if  the  Governor  had  any  connection  with  the  King  of  Pegu. 
I  said  that  many  years  ago  the  King  of  Pegu  had  written  to  the 
Governor,  but  I  did  not  know  of  any  correspondence  since.  Says 
he,  ''It  is  my  business  to  endeavour  to  settle  quarrels  and  to 
make  peace,  and  I  wish  the  Governor  could  put  me  on  a  way  of 
doing  it  in  the  war  I  have  mentioned.  It  is  not  so  violent  now  as 
it  was,  but  they  are  still  on  bad  terms."  He  asked  me  how  many 
years  the  (Governor  would  remain  in  Bengal.  It  was  a  question 
I  could  not  well  answer. 

I  saw  the  Sopon  Ghumbo  next  morning  as  I  went  to  the 
Lama's  apartment.  He  told  me  he  had  represented  what  I  had 
said,  and  the  Lama  would  immediately  give  orders  about  the  musk 
goats  and  tds. 

Teshu  Lama  repeated  his  concern  at  my  departure ;  the  satia- 
faction  he  had  received  in  being  informed  of  the  customs  of  Europe, 
and  concluded  with  many  wishes  for  my  prosperity,  and  that  he 
would  not  fail  to  pray  to  Heaven  in  my  behalf.  He  spoke  all  this 
in  a  manner  and  with  a  look  very  different  trom  the  studied  and 
formal  compliments  of  Hindustan.  I  never  could  reconcile  myself 
to  taking  a  last  leave  of  anybody ;  and  what'  from  the  Lama's 
pleasant  and  amiable  character,  what  from  the  many  &vours  and 
dviUties  he  had  shown  me,  I  could  not  help  being  particularly 
a£fected«  He  observed  it,  and  in  order  to  cheer  me  mentioned  his 
hopes  of  seeing  me  again.  He  threw  a  handkerchief  about  my 
neck,  put  his  hand  upon  my  head,  and  I  retired. 

After  a  short  visit  to  Ghanzo  Gusho  I  mounted  my  horse,  and 
bade  farewell  to  Teshu  Lumbo. 


172 


VISIT  FROM  THE  CHAUDURI. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


CHAPTEB  XVI. 


THE  EPISODE  WITH  THE  CHAUDURI. 


My  coimection  with  tbe  Ghaiidiiri  forms  an  episode  to  the  rest  of 
my  negotiations  at  Teshn  Lnmbo,  and  I  Iiaye  reserved  it  for  this 
place.  It  is  needless  to  enter  into  long  details  about  an  affair 
that  ended  in  nothing,  and  I  will  therefore  relate  what  passed  as 
briefly  as  possible. 

Soon  after  the  Lama's  return  to  his  capital  a  man  named 
the  Ghaudmi  ^  came  to  see  me.  He  was  a  native  of  Palpa,^  or  some 
other  of  the  hilly  countries  subject  to  the  twenty-four  Bajahs. 
His  first  visit  was  merely  of  ceremony ;  a  few  days  afterwards  he 
came  alone.  He  told  me  that  he  had  lately  been  at  Lhasa,  and 
enlarged  much  on  the  confidence  and  favour  which  Oesub  Bimboch^ 
had  shown  him.  He  said  he  had  been  sent  by  Gesub  to  wait  upon 
the  Lama  and  to  visit  me ;  that  Gesub  was  much  pleased  with  the 
Company  having  concluded  peace  vnth  the  Bhutanese,  and  was 
desirous  of  cultivating  the  (Governor's  friendship ;  that  he  proposed, 
therefore,  to  send  him  (Ghauduri)  as  his  vakil  to  Calcutta,  with  a 
letter  and  presents,  and  that  he  was  to  accompany  me  on  my 
return. 

As  the  Lama  had  never  mentioned  this  man's  name  to  me,  and 
as  Gesub's  servants,  who  had  visited  me  the  preceding  day,  had 
desired  me  not  to  attend  to  what  the  fiakir  said,  vrithout  giving  me 


*  A  Ckauduri,  or  Descdi^  in  Nepal,  is  a 
enbordinate  revenue  officer  under  the 
Fowedar,  Next  in  rank  to  the  Rajah 
among  the  Eirantis  in  Nepal,  was  an  offi- 
cial named  the  Ghautariya  (minister), 
whose  title  and  office  were  hereditary. 
Tliis  seems  to  be  tbe  same  word  as  Chau- 
dnri.  (See  Hamilton's  ^  Nepal.')  In 
another  placo,  Hamilton  has  Chaudari 
as  a  zemindar,  acting  as  minister  to 
a  chief  among  the  Kirantis.     In  the 


Gorkha  regime  ChauJtariya  is  the  title 
of  ooUaterals  of  the  royal  iamUy,  who 
are  frequently  but  not  necessarily  mem- 
bers of  the  ministry. 

'  Palpa  is  a  district  in  Nepal,  west 
of  Eathmandu,  formerly  under  a  Bajah 
who  formed  one  of  the  Ghaubisi,  or 
twenty-four  Bajahs.  Tbe  district  has 
long  since  been  subdued  by  the 
Gorkhas. 


Ch.  XVI.]  OVEBTURBS  PROM  OESUB  RIMBOCH^.  173 

any  explanation  of  this  cantion,  I  confess  I  was  snspicioits  of  his 
exceeding  the  extent  of  his  commission,  hut  had  no  doubt  of  his 
having  some  commission.  I  repeated  to  him,  howeyer,  a  great 
many  things  I  had  said  to  the  Lama  about  the  Company's  friendly 
intentions  towards  Tibet,  and  that  if  Gesub  chose  to  send  a  Takfl  to 
Calcutta  I  was  convinced  the  Governor  would  show  him  all  respect 
and  attention;  that  as  to  myself  I  would  be  very  glad  of  his 
company  on  the  road,  but  that  as  I  was  sent  to  Teeliu  Lama,  and 
living  under  his  roof,  and  as  there  was  no  difference  between  Gesub 
and  the  Lama,  it  was  necessary  to  mention  this  to  the  latter.  I 
asked  him  at  the  same  time  whether  he  had  spoken  to  Teshu  Lama 
about  it.  He  replied  that  he  had  had  no  opportunity,  on  account 
of  the  Lama  being  so  much  engaged  on  his  return,  and  seemed 
not  to  like  my  speaking  to  him  about  it,  saying  it  was  needless.  I 
told  him,  however,  that  it  was  the  custom  of  the  English  to  deal 
plainly  and  openly,  and  that  I  could  do  nothing  without  mentioning 
it  to  ihe  Lama. 

I  was  perhaps  wrong  in  this;  and  a  man  more  artful  than 
myself,  knowing,  too,  the  Uttle  cordiaUty  that  there  was  between 
Gesub  and  the  Lama,  might  perhaps  have  carried  on  his  negotia- 
tions with  the  Chauduri  without  communicating  them  to  the  Lama. 
But  I  must  own,  in  my  small  experience  through  life,  I  have 
always  found  candour  and  plain  dealing  to  be  the  best  poUcy,  and 
I  had  no  notion  of  running  the  risk  of  forfeiting  the  confidence  of 
one  who,  I  had  every  reason  to  think,  was  well  disposed  towards  me 
and  my  constituents,  in  order  to  take  the  chance  of  opening,  thrgugh 
an  uncertain  channel,  a  connection  with  a  man  who  I  believed 
entertained  no  very  favourable  sentiments  of  me  or  my  masters. 

The  Chauduri  at  length  consented  to  my  speaking  to  the  Lama 
about  it,  which  I  did,  as  mentioned  in  my  conversation  of  the  4th 
of  April.^ 

After  this  I  had  another  visit  from  the  Chauduri,  who  had  also 
spoken  to  the  Lama,  on  the  subject.  He  repeated  the  Lama's 
answers  in  the  style  of  Hindustan,  not  of  Tibet.  He  said  also  that 
Gesub  wished  much  to  gratify  the  Governor  in  everything ;  that  if 
he  wanted  to  establish  factories  at  Lhasa,  Gesub  was  very  ready  to 
grant  him  permission ;  that  Gesub  had  thought  of  introducing  the 

1  See  p.  168. 


174  THE  OHAUDTJRI  DISCLAIMED  [Ch.  XVI. 

rapeeB  of  Bengal  into  this  oountry,  and  hoped  the  Governor  wonld 
consent  to  it. 

When  I  compared  in  my  mind  all  this  account  of  Gesub's  VBfit 
benevolence,  with  his  objections  to  my  coming  into  the  conntry, 
and  recollected  what  had  passed  between  his  servants  and  me,  my 
suspicions  of  the  Ohaodnri's  veracity  increased.    After  telling  him, 
therefore,  how  happy  I  was  to  hear  of  Gesnb's  good  dispositions, 
which  I  was  convinced  would  be  reciprocal  on  the  part  of  the 
Governor,  I  said  that  I  had  no   order  from  my  constituents 
for    applying    about    {actenes;  that  the  Gh>vemor   had  indeed 
observed  with  concern  the  obstacles  which  the  merchants  who 
traded  between  this  country  and  Bengal  were  of  late  years  ex- 
posed to;  and  that  I  had  by  his  order  represented  them  to  the 
Lama,  who,  I  believed,  had  communicated  them  to  Gesub;  and 
that  as  the  removing  of  them  would  be  of  advantage  to  this  country 
as  well  as  to  Bengal,  I  had  no  doubt  of  his  concurrence  in  so  good 
a  work ;  that,  as  to  the  rupees,  the  Company  hindered  no  person 
from  carrying  them  out  of  the  country ;  and  if  the  merchants  found 
their  advantage  in  it  they  would  no  doubt  bring  them  into  Tibet ; 
but  unless  the  value  of  a  sicca  rupee  was  greatly  increased  beyond 
its  present  price  of  two  mahmdra-mallis^  I  did  not  see  how  the 
merchants  could  find  their  advantage  in  it. 

The  Chauduri  said  he  proposed  in  about  ten  or  twelve  days  to 
go  to  Lhasa ;  that  he  would  represent  to  Gesub  what  I  said  about  the 
freedom  of  trade,  and  that  he  would  engage,  in  four  days  after  his 
arrival,  to  procure  me  a  favourable  answer  from  him,  and  would 
also  write  to  me  himself;  that  after  staying  some  time  with  Gesub, 
and  receiving  his  letter  and  presente  for  the  Governor,  he  would 
return  to  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  accompany  me  to  Calcutta.     I  recol- 
lect nothing  further  material  that  passed,  either  at  this  or  two 
other  conversations,  for  I  was  cautious  in  what  I  said  myself,  and 
an  Hindu  can  say  a  great  deal  without  saying  anything,  only 
that  I  made  him  some  personal  promises  in  case  Gesub  should  send 
him  as  his  vakil  to  Calcutta,  and,  indeed,  at  one  time  I  had  thoughts 
of  making  him  some  presente. 

Meanwhile  the  Lama  had  written  about  the  Chauduri  to  Gesab, 

^  See  note  at  p.  129.    The  mahendra-mallis  are  now  commonly  called  moharSf 
two  of  which  make  a  mohary  rupee,  equal  to  13^  sicca  annas. 


J 


Ch.  XVI.]  BY  THE  GESUB  BIMBOGH£.  175 

and  reoeiyed  an  answer,  which  he  sent  to  me.  In  this  letter 
Gesnb  disclaimed  having  giyen  the  Ghandari — who,  he  said,  had 
gone  to  Teshu  Lnmbo  on  his  own  business — any  commission  to  me ; 
that  he  had  neyer  spoken  about  sending  him  to  Calcutta ;  that  he 
had  no  connection  with  him,  and  only  knew  his  face  by  haying 
seen  him  once,  at  his  country  seat ;  and  desired  the  Lama  imme- 
diately to  send  him  to  Lhasa. 

I  confess  I  was  equally  at  a  loss  to  reconcile  this  letter  with 
the  intelligence  I  had  receiyed;  for  although  I  gaye  Uttle  credit 
to  the  Chauduri's  yaunting  discourses,  I  had  been  informed  by  all 
the  world  that  Gesub  had  made  him  a  present  of  between  four  and 
fiye  thousand  rupees,  and  could  hardly  think  he  would  be  so 
generous  to  a  man  he  had  only  seen  once,  merely  for  his  heaiMS 
yeux. 

The  Chauduri  was  carried  away  to  Lhasa.  I  did  not  see  him 
before  his  departure,  but  assured  him,  through  one  of  his  people,  of 
my  friendly  dispositions  to  him,  and  of  my  services,  in  case  he  per- 
formed what  he  had  promised. 

I  heard  nothing  further  of  the  Chauduri  till  about  a  week 
before  my  departure  for  Bengal,  when  he  arrived  at  Teshu  Lumbo. 
For  several  days  he  did  not  come  to  see  me,  and  I  let  him  know, 
through  a  third  hand,  that  I  was  surprised  at  it.  After  this  he 
visited  me,  when  his  conversation  was  to  let  himself  down  softly, 
and  to  do  away  with  everything  he  had  before  said.  That  Gesub, 
although  well  disposed  to  the  Governor,  was  afraid  of  giving 
umbrage  to  the  Chinese,  and  therefore  ordered  him,  the  Chauduri, 
in  case  he  went  to  the  Ambas,  and  they  should  ask  about  me,  to 
give  them  an  evasive  answer,  and  not  to  let  them  know  that  I  was 
a  Fringy ;  that  the  Ambas,  however,  did  not  ask  him ;  that  Gesub 
had  still  thoughts  of  sending  him,  the  Chauduri,  to  Calcutta 
after  the  rain.  I  said  that  I  had  written  to  Gesub,  but  he  had 
not  thought  proper  to  favour  me  with  an  answer;  that  I  could 
therefore  form  no  judgment  of  his  sentiments  or  intentions;  but 
if  he  proposed  to  send  anybody  to  Calcutta  I  supposed  he  would 
mention  it  to  the  Lama ;  that,  as  to  the  Chinese,  I  thought  Gesub's 
precautions  unnecessary ;  that  I  was  not  come  into  Tibet  as  a  spy, 
but  to  wait  upon  the  Lama ;  that  the  English  were  strangers  to 
duplicity  and  treachery,  and  I  could  not  help  being  surprised  that 


176  END  OF  THE  CHAUDUBI  INTEIQUB.  [Ch.  XVI. 

he  should  be  so  afraid  of  offending  the  Chinese  by  admitting  a 
yakfl  from  the  English,  who  never  had  or  oonld  have  any  quarrel 
with  Tibet,  while  he  permitted  to  go  to  Lhasa  the  vakfl  of  a  man 
who  was  actually  at  war  with  his  vassal,  and  whose  ambition  and 
treachery  he  had  so  often  experienced.  He  said  it  was  very  true, 
but  everybody  was  afraid  of  the  Fringiea  I  knew  this  but  too 
welL  Little  else  passed.  I  was  reserved,  and  so  was  he.  I  had  fall 
opportunity  to  have  reproached  him  for  his  fruitless  promises  about 
procuring  me  an  answer  from  Glesub ;  for  his  confident  assurances 
of  being  sent  with  me  to  Calcutta;  and  so  I  might  have  taken  some 
revenge  upon  him  for  deceiving  ma  But  it  would  have  served  no 
good  purpose;  and  as  I  had  not  and  did  not  intend  to  give  him 
anything,  what  right  had  I  to  upbraid  him?  I  therefore  took 
leave  of  him  with  fair,  but  guarded,  words. 

In  endeavouring  to  account  for  this  strange  intrigue,  I  can 
only  form  two  hypotheses :  either  that  the  Chauduri,  according  to 
Gesub's  account  of  the  matter,  acted  entirely  firom  himself,  and 
hoped,  upon  the  strength  of  his  pretended  commission,  to  ingratiate 
himself  with  me,  to  draw  from  me  some  presents,  and  then,  by 
means  of  this,  to  ingratiate  himself  with  Gesub;  or,  which  I 
think  the  more  probable  of  the  two  (for  I  am  dear  as  to  Gesub 
having  made  him  a  considerable  present),  that  Gesub,  jealous  of  my 
visit  to  the  Lama,  and  desirous  to  know  my  errand,  had  employed 
the  Chauduri  to  sound  me ;  at  the  same  time,  as  he  could  not  avow 
this,  that  he  disclaimed  any  connection  with  him,  and  sunmioned 
him  to  Lhasa  on  pretence  of  punishing  him ;  but,  in  fiact^  to  know 
what  had  passed  between  him  and  me.  Be  it  as  it  may,  the  whole 
matter  ended  in  smoke. 


Ch.  XVILJ  farewell  to  the  lama.  177 


CHAPTEE  XVII. 

'  RETURN  FROM  TIBET  TO  BENGAL  —  NEGOTIATIONS  IN 

BHUTAN. 

As  the  time  of  my  departure  drew  near,  I  found  that  I  should  not 
be  able  to  bid  adieu  to  the  Lama  without  a  heavy  heart.  The  kind 
and  hospitable  reception  he  had  given  me,  and  the  amiable  disposi- 
tions which  he  possesses,  I  must  confess  had  attached  me  to  him, 
and  I  shall  feel  a  hearty  regret  at  parting.  In  spite  of  all  my 
joumeyings  and  wanderings  over  the  face  of  the  earthy  I  have  not 
yet  learnt  to  take  leave,  and  I  cannot  reconcile  myself  to  the 
thoughts  of  a  last  &rewelL 

When  I  look  on  the  time  I  have  spent  among  these  hills  it 
appears  like  a  Mrj  dream.  The  novelty  of  the  scenes,  and  the 
people  I  have  met  with,  and  the  novelty  of  the  life  I  have  led, 
seem  a  perfect  illusion.  Although  my  days  have  been  spent 
without  business  or  amusement,  they  have  passed  on  without  care 
or  uneasiness,  and  I  may  set  this  down  as  the  most  peaceful  period 
of  my  life.  It  is  now  almost  over,  and  I  am  about  to  return  to  the 
hurry  and  bustle  of  Calcutta. 

Farewell,  ye  honest  and  simple  people !  May  ye  long  enjoy 
that  happiness  which  is  denied  to  more  polished  nations;  and 
while  they  are  engaged  in  the  endless  pursuits  of  avarice  and 
ambition,  defended  by  your  barren  mountains,  may  ye  continue  to 
live  in  peace  and  contentment,  and  know  no  wants  but  those  of 
nature.^ 

On  the  7th  of  April,.  1775,  as  soon  as  I  had  taken  leave  of  my 
fiiends  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  I  hurried  dow^  the  hill,  got  on  horseback, 
and  began  my  journey  towards  Bengal.  There  was  a  large  caval- 
esAe  of  us.  For,  besides  Mr.  Hamilton,  myself,  Mirza  Settar,  and 
our  Bengal  servants,  and  Purungir,  the  young  Gosain  who  had 

>  Extract  from  a  letter  from  Mr.  Bogle  to  his  aister,  dated  March  10, 1775. 

N 


178  INCIDENTS  ON  THE  EOAD.  [Ch.  XVU. 

fonnerly  been  sent  to  GaJcntta  by  the  Lama,  and  an  old  Gosain, 
who,  afraid  that  in  passing  through  Nepal  he  might  be  stripped  of 
all  the  wealth  he  had  been  gathering  during  forty  years'  trading 
pilgrimages  from  the  banks  of  the  Indns  to  the  plains  of  Siberia, 
had  obtained  leave  to  pass  in  my  company  through  the  Bhutan 
mountains,  and  Deb  Gylong,  a  priest  of  the  Lama's  household, 
with  Paima,  and  about  ten  Bhutanese  servants,  who  were  to  escort 
me  to  the  frontier  of  Bengal,  there  were  all  the  Kashmiri  merchants 
of  Shigatze,  who  insisted  on  paying  me  the  compliment  of  seeing 
me  fietirly  on  my  journey. 

After  accommodating  matters  with  a  large  party  of  clamorous 
beggars,  we  rode  slowly  over  the  plain  which  stretches  southwards 
from  the  palace,  and  arrived  at  a  large  tent,  where  tea  was  provided. 
Having  drank  two  or  three  dishes,  I  took  leave  of  my  Kashmiri 
Mends,  by  interchanging  handkerchiefs,  compliments,  and  good 
wishes.  The  palace  and  town,  the  monastery  of  Teshu  Lumbo  with 
its  copper-gilt  roofs ;  the  castle  of  Shigatze,  with  the  town  below 
it,  and  the  high  surrounding  hills,  formed  a  fine  prospect  at  this 
distance.  But  the  bleakness  and  barrenness  of  the  country  were  a 
great  drawback ;  for  not  a  single  blade  of  grass  had  yet  sprung,  nor 
a  tree  budded. 

We  reached  the  end  of  our  stage  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  a  large 
village.  Our  landlord  was  a  priest,  and  our  room  set  off  with  an 
image  of  a  former  Lama,  as  large  as  hfe,  and  small  images  with 
lamps  burning  before  them.  All  our  Tibet  attendants.  Deb 
Oylong  excepted,  had  well  refreshed  themselves  at  parting  with 
their  friends  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  and  I  persuaded  some  of  them  to 
deprecate  the  wrath  of  the  Lama's  image  by  lighting  pyes  (perfumed 
torches)  before  it.  However,  drunkenness  is  either  not  a  sin 
among  the  laity  of  Tibet,  or,  as  happens  in  all  cold  countries^  by 
being  often  committed  is  made  light  of. 

On  the  road  to  Painam  we  met  Deb  Patza,  who  was  on  his 
way  to  pay  a  visit  to  Teshu  Lama,  before  he  went  to  join  his 
troops.  He  was  preceded  by  his  wife  and  her  female  attendants, 
mounted  astride  on  horseback.  She  had  her  &ce  half  oorered, 
like  the  Armenian  women.  But  I  was  so  taken  up  in  getting  a 
handkerchief  ready  for  the  General,  that  I  did  not  observe  his  lady 
till  she  was  almost  past.    We  aUghted  on  both  sides.    Jhe  General 


Oh.  XVII]  incidents  ON  THE  ROAD.  179 

oonrteonsly  declined  to  leoeiye  my  handkerchief  till  he  had  given 
me  his.  After  some  mntnal  inqniriee,  he  said  he  had  a  house  in  the 
neighhonrhood,  where  he  wonld  have  been  happy  to  have  receiyed 
me,  and  to  have  played  another  game  at  chess ;  ^  but  expecting  soon 
to  be  again  sent  towards  Nepal,  and  being  obliged  to  wait  on  the 
Teshu  Lama  before  his  departure,  it  was  not  in  his  power.  This 
was  polite.  The  rest  of  the  conyersation  turned  upon  his  late 
expedition  into  Demo  Jong's  country.'  Soon  after  parting  from 
him  we  came  in  sight  of  his  house.  It  stands  in  the  plain  to  the 
north  of  Pain4m,  surrounded  by  willow  and  other  trees.  There  is 
a  long  bridge  at  Pain^m,  which  we  passed,  and  arrived  at  the 
house  where  we  had  formerly  been  accommodated. 

Our  journey  from  Paindm  to  Bengal  was  prosecuted  nearly  by 
the  same  road  which  we  had  before  travelled.  Did  I  intend  by 
these  memoranda  to  enumerate  only  the  names  of  villages,  or  the 
bearings  and  distances  of  the  several  stages,  I  should  have  but  to 
put  down  a  list,  which  might  be  added  to  the  book  of '  Posts  of 
Asia;'  for  the  face  of  the  country  had  suffered  no  change  by  a 
revolution  of  six  months,  and,  although  the  sxm  was  now  within 
twenty  degrees  of  us,  continued  to  exhibit  the  same  inhospitable 
appearance  as  in  the  dead  of  winter.  But  I  have  often  thought 
that  trifling  incidents,  artlessly  told,  serve  to  mark  the  genius  and 
to  convey  an  idea  of  the  manners  of  a  people,  better  than  abstract 
characters  or  studied  descriptions.  The  last  I  will  not  attempt.  If 
the  first  is  sufficient,  I  may  be  able  to  give  them. 

A  blind  man,  with  a  young  wife,  came  into  the  court  and 
serenaded  us.  He  played  on  the  fiddle  underhandwise ;  she  sang ; 
and  both,  assisted  by  a  young  boy,  beat  time,  hoppingly,  with  their 
feet.    The  object  of  this  compliment,  I  fancy,  it  is  needless  to  explain. 

Our  musicians  gave  way  to  a  parcel  of  mendicant  priests.^  It 
may  be  necessary  to  state  that  there  are  two  sets  of  clergy  in  Tibet, 
distinguished  by,  and  classed  under  the  names  of.  Yellow  Caps  and 
Bed  Gaps.^    The  Dalai  and  Teshu  Lamas  are  at  the  head  of  the 

'  See  p.  101.  1355  a.d.,  near  Lake  Kokonor.     His 

'  Sikkim.    Properly  Deun^jong,  Bcholars  adopted  the  yellow  head-^ress 

'  Gylongs ;  or  Bhikshu,  in  SanBcrit.  to  distingulBh  them  from  the  prevailing 

*  The  great  Tibetan  reformer,  Tsong-  red.    Tsongkapa  died  in  1419,  and  was 

kapa,  the  founder  of  the  Yellow  Caps,  buried  in  the  great  C^Idan  Monastery, 

or  Gelukpa  sect,  wns  bom  in  about  near  Lhasa.   He  abolished  the  marriage 

N   2 


180  8EGT8  OF  THE  YELLOW  AND  RED  CAPS.       [Ch.  XVIL 

Yellow  Gaps ;  the  Bed  Gaps  have  their  own  Lamas  and  monasteries. 
In  times  of  old  there  were  violent  disputes  between  them,  in  which 
the  Yellow  Gaps  got  the  victory,  as  well  by  the  assistance  of  the 
Tatars  as  by  their  superior  sanctity.  But  as  I  adhere  to  the  tenets 
of  this  sect,  and  have  acquired  my  knowledge  of  reUgion  from  its 
▼otaries,  I  will  not  here  say  much  upon  the  subject,  lest  it  should 
be  thought  spiteful.  I  may  be  allowed,  however,  just  to  mention 
two  things,  which  must  convince  every  unprejudiced  person  of  the 
wicked  lives  and  false  doctrines  of  the  Bed  Gaps.  In  the  first  place, 
many  of  the  dergy  marry ;  and  in  the  next,  they  persist,  in  opposi- 
tion to  religion  and  common  sense,  in  wearing  Bed  Gaps.  The  priests 
who  now  visited  us  were  of  this  last  sect  There  might  be  about 
eight  of  them.  Each  held  a  staff  in  one  hand  and  a  rosary  in  the 
other.  They  formed  into  a  circle,  and  began  to  chant  their  prayers, 
which,  as  I  understood  they  were  put  up  for  my  welfiare,  I  was  in 
no  haste  to  interrupt.  At  length,  to  show  them  that,  however 
hostile  to  their  principles,  I  bore  them  no  personal  grudge,  I 
dismissed  them  with  a  few  small  pieces  of  silver. 

In  the  night  a  heavy  shower  of  snow  came  on,  and  I  was  glad 
to  get  up  to  save  my  dogs  from  it.  I  had  to  pass  through  the 
room  where  all  the  Lama*s  servants  slept,  and  I  may  as  well  tell 
how  they  were  lying.  Each  man  was  stretched  upon  one  t>lank6t 
or  two,  I  cannot  positively  affirm  whicC.  He  had  thrown  off  aU 
his  clothes,  and  then  covered  himself  with  his  woollen  tunics, 
of  which  everyone  in  the  winter  time  wears  at  least  three.  His 
boots,  doublet,  belt,  and  pouch,  with  the  things  that  were  in  it, 
huddled  all  together,  formed  a  pillow  to  his  chin,  for  they  were  all 
lying  on  their  feuses,  with  their  heads  over  the  top  of  the  bed,  and 
in  this  posture  were  smoking  tobacco  and  chatting  together. 

The  snow  lay  upon  the  road  about  six  fingers  deep,  and  all 
the  hills  were  whitened  with  it.  It  was  a  good  time  for  beggars  to 
ask  charity,  and  there  is  no  want  of  them  at  Pain&m,  no  more  than 

of  priests,  forbade  magio,  and  intro-  The  Dalai  is  an  incarnation  of  At»- 

dnced  the  practice  of  frequent  confer-  lokitesvara,  a  form  of  Baddha,  and  the 

onoes  among  the  Lamas.    His  seot  soon  Teshn  of  Taongkapa  himself.    The  Red 

obtained  a  nnmerical  superiority  over  Gaps  are  now  in  a  minority  in  Tibet, 

the  older  Bed  Gaps  in  Tibet     The  but  they  retained  ascendancy  in  Bhn- 

most  important  of  his  reforms  was  the  tan,  Nepal,  and  Sikkim.   (See  Heeley's 

foundation  of  the  two  spiritual  sucoes-  artiole  on  Tibet,  in  the  '  Calcutta  Be- 

sions  of  the  Dalai  and  Teshu  Lamas.  view,'  No.  czvil  pp.  161,  162.) 


Ch.  XVn.]  OLD  FRIENDS.    A  HOT  SPBING.  181 

in  all  the  towns  and  large  Tillages  in  Tibet.  They  are  yetj  impor- 
tunate, and  make  their  petitions  in  a  shrill,  plaintiye  note,  following 
'yon  a  great  way  on  the  road.  A  trayeller  that  wishes  not  to 
appear  uncharitable,  and  at  the  same  time  does  not  choose  to  bestow 
too  much  money  among  them,  had  best  make  a  good  many  beggars 
assemble  together,  and  giving  a  few  pieces  of  small  coin,  leave  it 
to  them  to  divide  the  alms.  The  Tibet  folks  sometimes  give  them 
little  bits  of  handkerchief,  which  is  giving  nothing;  and  a 
mahendrcHnaUi^  rapee,  which  is  worth  about  a  shilling,  is  the 
lowest  coin  in  the  country. 

Next  day  we  arrived  at  the  house  of  our  former  hospitable 
Oiansu  landlord,  Debo  Tangu,  who  received  us  with  much  kindness, 
and  insisted  upon  our  passing  the  following  day  with  him.  Mr. 
Hamilton's  medicines  had  much  relieved  him  from  his  complaints, 
and  he  was  in  fine  spirits ;  and  as  we  had  seen  him  often  at  Teshn 
Lumbo,  we  were  now  very  intimate.  He  and  I  had  many  long 
chats  together,  which  we  moistened  from  time  to  time  with  tea, 
and  at  night  we  used  to  get  cheery  wood  fires  and  sit  round  them. 

A  Kashmiri,  afflicted  with  sore  eyes,  came  all  the  way  from 
Lhasa  to  Giansu,  to  apply  to  Mr.  Hamilton. 

The  same  good  humour  which  we  had  formerly  met  with  pre- 
vailed at  Dadukpai.  The  wife,  her  twO'  husbands,  the  brother, 
who  is  a  priest,  and  all  the  children  came  in  after  supper,  and  two 
hours  passed  in  listening  to  the  songs  of  the  men,  and  in  seeing 
the  children  dance.  A  maid-servant  of  the  house  also  joined  in  the 
songs ;  but  it  was  a  difficult  thing  to  get  the  wife  to  sing,  which 
often  happens  with  handsome  women.  As  I  could  now  make  it  out 
without  an  interpreter,  I  had  much  more  satisfSaction  in  these 
parties,  and  when  one  is  travelling  there  is  nothing  like  making 
amusement  out  of  everything. 

A  few  miles  before  you  arrive  at  the  next  stage,  there  is  a  hot 
spring  on  the  top  of  a  pebbly  mount.  I  did  not  observe  it  before. 
It  issues  out  of  a  piece  of  rock,  which  is  cut  into  a  small  basin  to 
receive  it.  The  water  is  more  than  blood  heat,  and  brings  up  a 
great  deal  of  air  with  it.  It  does  not  rise  equally,  but  every  half 
minute  bursts  up  in  large  bubbles,  and  with  a  good  deal  of  noise. 

'  See  note  at  p.  129.    The  cx)in  and  weight  are  so  called  from  the  Newar 
dynasty  of  the  Malls  in  Nepal. 


182  BBTURN  TO  TASSISUDON.  [Oh.  XVII. 

There  are  many  of  these  hot  springs  in  Tibet^  particularly  in  the 
province  of  Chamnamring/  called  Ghang.^  I  am  told  coal  is  some- 
times found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  them,  but  in  no  great  quan- 
tity. Some  of  these  waters  are  so  hot  as  to  boil  an  egg,  or  to 
serve  to  dress  victuals.  They  are  much  frequented  by  sick  people, 
and  are  considered  as  a  cure  for  almost  every  disease.  The  Lama 
also  and  the  great  people  sometimes  visit  them,  though  in  perfect 
healtib.     I  have  brought  away  a  bottle  of  the  water,  which  anyone 

that  can  may  analyze. 

♦  ♦  ♦  ♦  ♦     * 

I  arrived  at  Paro  (Binjipu)  in  April,  and  on  the  8th  of  May, 
1775,  reached  Tassisudon.  ^ 

Besides  the  Gk)6ain  whom  the  Lama  formerly  sent  to  Calcutta, 
I  am  accompanied  by  another,  a  merchant,  who  for  many  years 
traded  between  Bengal  and  Tibet.  The  danger  of  returning 
through  Nepal  or  Bijapur,  where  his  wealth  would  be  exposed  to 
the  Gorkha  Bajah's  rapacious  fingers,  has  for  some  time  past 
detained  him  at  Teshu  Lumbo;  and  having  procured  from  the 
Lama  a  recommendation  to  the  Deb  Bajah,  he  is  glad  to  embrace 
the  opportunity  of  proceeding  with  me  to  Bengal 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Tassisudon  we  found  the  Deb  Bajah  and 
Lama  Bimboche  absent  at  their  palace  of  Punakha.  They  arrived 
on  the  16th,  and  next  day  I  paid  the  Deb  Bajah  a  visit  of 

ceremony. 

»  ♦  »  «  « 

Tassisudon,  May  25,  1775. 

I  have  always  considered  it  as  the  great  object  of  my  mission 
to  remove  the  obstacles  which  merchants  are  at  present  exposed  to 

1  These  hot  springs  are  described  50  feet,  producing  so  much  steam  that 

by  Oolonel  Montgomerie*s  Tibetan  ex-  the  sky  is  darkened  by  it,  and  the  noise 

plorer,  who   set    out   from    Namling  was  so  great  that  the  trayellers  oould 

(Ohamnamring),  to  travel  northwards,  not  hear  one  another  speaking.    The 

on  December  26,  1871.    On  the  28th  water  of  these  jets  was  176°  Fahr. 

he  reached  Chutang  Chiki,  where  there  Similar  jets  were  noticed  issuing  from 

are  some  fifteen  hot  springs,  whose  water  the  middle  of  the  adjacent  liTer  Lakii 

was  found  to  be  at  a  temperature  of  Chu,  to  a  height  of  50  feet. 

166°  Fahr.,  boiling  water  at  the  same  *  This  should  be  Taang^  or  Dzang^ 

place  only  rising  to  186°.    The  water  according    to    Elaproth    i^Tzhang    dt 

has  a  smell  of  sulphur.    On  the  30th  Georgi).     The   provinces   of   U   and 

they  came  to  Peting  Chuja,  near  which  Tsang  form  Tibet  proper,  Teshu  Lumbo 

place  there  is  a  large  stony  area  from  being  the  capital  of  the  former,  and 

which  a  dozen  columns  of  hot  water  Lhasa  of  the  latter, 
issue,  and  rise  to  a  height  of  40  or 


Ch.  XVIL]  PARO  as  a  OENTBAL  MABT.  188 

in  izayelling  between  Bengal  and  Tibet,  and  by  thai  means  revive 
and  increase  the  commerce  between  these  two  oonntries.  If  the 
Deb  Bajah  allowed  freedom  of  trade  throngh  his  dominions,  and 
permitted  the  merchants  of  Tibet  to  come  and  purchase  goods  in 
his  country,  I  should  have  had  occasion  only  to  apply  for  the  Deb 
Bajah's  permission  for  merchants  to  bring  the  commodities  of 
Bengal  to  Binjipn  (Paro),  which,  being  the  capital  of  this  country, 
being  situate  on  the  road  from  Pari-jong,  and  having  a  communica- 
tion with  Bengal  by  Lukhi-Diiar,  Dalim-kotta,  and  Buxa-Ddar,  is 
well  adapted  to  be  a  central  market  for  the  merchandise  of  Bengal 
and  Tibet.  But  the  whole  trade  in  the  more  valuable  sort  of  goods 
is  engrossed  by  the  Deb  Bajah  and  his  officers,  who  are,  in  fiust, 
the  merchants  of  Bhutan.^  The  few  Tibetans  who  come  to  Binjipu 
(Paro)  are  allowed  only  to  exchange  the  salt  and  wool  of  tiieir 
country  for  the  rice  of  Bhutan.  Were  I,  therefore,  to  apply  for  per- 
mission for  merchants  to  bring  their  goods  only  to  Binjipu  (Paro), 
without  obtaining  leave  for  those  of  Tibet  to  come  and  trade  to 
that  place,  the  Deb  Bajah  and  his  officers,  men  not  wealthy,  and 
who,  being  engaged  in  the  affitirs  of  government,  carry  on  their 
commercial  concerns  but  to  a  small  extent,  and  without  that  enter- 
prising spirit  which  merchants  possess,  would  in  &ct  be  the  only 
purchasers,  and  the  trade  would  remain  on  much  the  same  footing 
as  formerly,  only  that  Binjipu  (Paro),  instead  of  Bangpur,  would 
become  the  market  for  the  commodities  of  Bengal.  The  consump- 
tion of  Bengal  goods,  except  tobacco,  betel  nut,  and  other  bulky 
articles,  is  very  small  in  the  Deb  Bajah's  country ;  aud  while  the 
people  remain  poor,  and  preserve  their  present  simple  manners,  will 
probably  continue  so.  It  is  no  object  in  Bengal ;  and  their  only 
commodities  for  exportation  are  musk,  horses,  munjit,^  blankets, 
and  some  thin  twilled  cloths.  The  first  three  have  always  been 
monopolized  by  the  rulers  of  Bhutan,  and  they  would  reluctantiy 
pcui  with  them.  The  importation  of  the  last  ought  rather  to  be 
discouraged,  as  it  iaterferes  with  the  sale  of  serge  and  of  coarse 
broadcloths.    In  the  dread  which  the  administration  at  Tassisudon 

*  Mr.  Brian  Hodgson  remarks,  on  under  the  allegations  of  jealousy  of  the 

this  passage,  that  the  engrossing  of  people,  or  of   the  Lamas,  or  of  the 

trade  by  the  officials  is  probably  the  Chinese, 
real  cause  of  those  obstructions  to  inter-  *  See  note  at  p.  6. 

course  which  are  everywhere  covered 


184  PBOPOSALS  FOE  FACILITATING  TRADE.       [Oh.  XVU. 

is  at  present  in  of  another  insurrection  in  &yoar  of  Deb  Jndhnr, 
sapported  by  the  government  at  Lhasa,  it  is  impossible  to  apply 
for  the  Deb  Bajah's  consent  to  allow  Tibetans  a  freedom  of  trade 
to  Binjipn  (Paro)  without  awakening  their  suspicions  of  treachery. 
I  determined  therefore  to  refer  eyerything  in  regard  to  native 
Tibetan  merchants  entirely  to  Teshn  Lama,  and  endeavour  to  pro* 
cure  leave  for  Hindus  and  Mussulmans  to  go  and  come  through 
the  Deb  Bajah's  dominions  between  Bengal  and  Tibet,  leaving  it  to 
them  either  to  dispose  of  their  goods  at  Binjipu  (Paro)  or  carry 
them  into  Tibet 

Having  resolved  all  these  things  in  my  mind,  and  knowing 
the  impracticability  of  obtaining  permission  for  Europeans  to 
trade  into  the  Deb  Bajah's  country,  I  drew  up  the  following  paper : 

**  Whereas  the  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet  was  formerly 
very  considerable,  and  all  Hindu  and  Mussulman  merchants  were 
allowed  to  trade  into  Nepal,  which  was  the  centre  of  communica- 
tion between  the  two  countries ;  ^  and  whereas,  from  the  wars  and 
oppressions  in  Nepal,  the  merchants  have  of  late  years  been  unable 
to  travel  into  that  country,  the  Governor  as  well  as  the  Deb  Bajah, 
united  in  friendship,  being  desirous  of  removing  these  obstacles,  so 
that  merchants  may  carry  on  their  trade  free  and  secure  as  for- 
merly, have  agreed  upon  the  following  articles : 

**  That  the  Bhutanese  shall  enjoy  the  privilege  of  trading  to 
Bangpur  as  formerly,  and  shall  also  be  allowed  to  proceed,  either 
themselves  or  by  their  gumcLshias^  to  all  places  in  Bengal,  for  the 
purpose  of  trading  and  selling  their  horses,  free  from  duty  or 
hindrance. 

''  That  the  duty  hitherto  exacted  at  Bangpiir  from  the  Bhutan 
caravan  be  frofn  henceforward  abolished. 

''  That  the  Deb  Bajah  shall  allow  all  Hindu  and  Mussulman 
merchants  freely  to  pass  and  repass  through  his  country  between 
Bengal  and  Tibet 

'  The  reoordfl  of  the  old  Patna  oom-  regions;  but  he  also  lays  stress  on  tha 

meroial  agency,  and  of  its  subordinate  advantages  of  the   Sikkim,  Bhtttan, 

office  at  Betia,  throw  light  npon  this,  and  Assam  lines,  and  the  growth  of  the 

Mr.  Brian  Hodgson,  in  his  report,  main-  tea  tntde  has  rendered  these  lines  move 

tains  that  Nepal  is  reaUy  the  proper  and  more  important, 

centre  of  conuneroial  intercourse   be-  '  Agents, 
tween  the  Cis  and  Trans-Himalayan 


Ch.  XVII.]       PB0P06ALS  FOR  FACILITATING  TRADE.  185 

''  That  no  English  or  Eoropean  merchants  shall  enter  the  Deb 
Bajah's  dominions. 

^  That  the  exclnsive  trade  in  sandal,  indigo,  red  skins,  tobaoooy 
betel  nut,  and  pan,  shall  remain  with  the  Bhutaneee,  and  that  the 
merchants  be  prohibited  from  importing  the  same  into  the  Deb 
Bajah's  dominions ;  and  that  the  Governor  shall  confirm  this  in 
regard  to  indigo  by  an  order  to  Bangpdr.'* 

The  preamble  is  intended  more  for  the  Tibetans  than  for  the 
Deb  Bajah,  and  I  drew  it  up^  in  this  manner  with  the  view  of  trans- 
mitting it  to  the  Lama.  The  relinqnishing  the  duty  upon  horses, 
which  I  am  told  is  six  annas  in  the  rupee,  was  an  offer  I  had  before 
made,  and  reckoning  it  at  a  much  larger  sum  than  I  find  it  yidds 
to  government,  had  laid  great  stress  upon  it.  The  permission  for 
the  Bhutanese  merchants  to  trade  throughout  Bengal  is  mentioned 
in  a  letter  to  the  Deb  Bajah  from  the  Governor,  of  9th  January.  I 
had  also  proposed  it  in  the  course  of  my  conversations  at  Tassisu- 
don ;  and  the  duty  upon  a  trade  so  beneficial  to  Bengal  may  well  be 
given  up.  I  must  trust,  therefore,  to  the  Governor  granting  dtuiuka  ^ 
to  any  ffumasJUa  whom  the  Bhutanese  may  send  beyond  Bangpur. 
At  present  they  seem  to  have  Uttle  thoughts  of  it ;  but  I  am  con- 
vinced that  after  their  people  arrive  at  Calcutta,  discover  numbers 
of  curiosities  which  they  never  saw  before,  and  find  the  price  of 
broadcloth,  coral,  spices,  &c.,  much  lower  than  at  Bangpur,  they 
will  &11  into  the  practice  of  purchasing  their  goods  at  Calcutta ; 
which  will  probably  have  the  good  consequence  of  increasing  the 
sale  of  English  broadcloth,  and  of  lessening  that  of  France,  of 
which  last  great  quantities  are  now  purchased  by  the  Bhutanese  for 
the  Tibet  markets.  The  rUl,  or  indigo,  is  produced,  I  believe,  only 
in  Bangpur,  and  has  always  been  engrossed  by  the  Bhutanese,  so 
that  the  exclusive  right  of  trading  in  this  article  is  no  more  than 
they  have  always  enjoyed.  The  other  articles  of  sandal  wood, 
red  skins,  &c.,  are  too  bulky  for  foreign  merchants  to  trade  in  them, 
and  I  confess  I  was  ready  to  give  them  up,  in  order  to  secure  broad- 
cloth, which  I  consider  as  the  most  important  commodity  in  the 
trade  of  Tibet  I  have  more  than  once  mentioned  the  impossibiUty 
of  procuring  leave  for  Europeans  to  trade  into  Bhutan,  and  without 
quieting  their  apprehensions  on  this  head,  I  saw  that  I  should 

*  A  passport  or  permit. 


186  OFFER  TO  BHUTAN  OF  FREE  TRADE.         £Ch.  XVIL 

neither  carry  any  point  in  regard  to  trade  with  this  goyemment, 
nor  hope  to  obtain  the  sanction  and  concnrrence  of  the  adminis- 
tration at  Lhasa. 


Fbok  Wabben  Hiffrnros  to  Mb.  Bogle,  at  Tassibudon. 

May  9,  1775. 

I  am  happy  to  learn  that  yonr  visit  has  proved  so  acceptable  to 
the  Lama,  and  flatter  myself  it  will  be  productive  of  the  good  con- 
sequences proposed  from  yonr  jonmey  to  him.  I  have  given  the 
necessary  orders  to  the  Custom  masters  at  Hngli  and  Morshi- 
dabad  for  passing  at  those  places  the  boats  which  yon  or  the  6t)sain 
who  is  accompanying  yon  from  the  Lama  may  bring  with  yon. 

I  recommend  it  to  yon  to  nse  yonr  ntmost  endeavours  during 
yonr  stay  at  Tassisudon  to  settle  conditions  with  the  Sajah  for  the 
establishment  of  an  entire  freedom  of  trade  between  his  country  and 
Bengal.  The  annual  caravan  may  continue  its  trade  to  Bangpur 
on  the  customary  terms.  To  effect  this  purpose  you  may  even 
consent  to  relinquish  the  tribute  or  duty  which  is  exacted  from  the 
Bhutan  caravan  which  comes  annually  to  Bangpur.  To  that  place 
all  their  goods  for  trade,  of  whatever  kind,  may  come  at  all  times, 
free  from  any  duty  or  impost  whatever,  and  exempt  from  stoppage ; 
and  in  like  manner  all  goods  shall  pass  from  Bengal  into  Bhutan 
firee  from  duty  and  molestation.  The  caravan  pays  to  Grovemment 
about  2000  rupees,  but  it  is  probable  that  the  right  of  levyihg  it 
may  serye  as  a  cover  to  much  greater  exactions,  and  that  the 
surrender  of  this  privilege  may  therefore  be  considered  by  the  Bajah 
as  considerable.  This  is  to  be  the  groundwork  of  your  negotiations. 
Ton  will  build  such  improvements  on  it  as  your  own  judgment  and 
occasion  may  dictata^ 

You  will  probably,  in  the  course  of  your  conversations  with  the 
Bajah  on  this  subject,  be  able  to  discover  how  his  personal  interests 
may  be  affected  by  the  proposed  scheme;  a  proper  attention  to 
which,  and  an  encouragement  of  any  hopes  of  advantages  he  may 

'  By  the  only  oommercial  treaty  with  to  be  6  to  8  per  cent,  in  1831,  and  it 

Nepal  (March  1,  1792),  now  obsolete,  has  lately  been  stated  at  17  to  20  per 

the  duty  on  imports  from  both  countries  cent.;   while  the  British  Gtoyemment 

was  fixed  at  2\  per  cent.    The  Nepal  leyies  no  duty  on  goods  imported  from 

duty  was  reported  by   Mr.  Hodgson  the  Himalayan  frontier  countries. 


Ch.  XVn.]  OPENING  OF  TRADE  WITH  BHUTAN.  187 

entertain  (proYided  his  particular  profits  to  be  derived  from  it  'will 
not  interfere  with  or  obstruct  the  general  plan),  may  greatly 
fJEMolitate  your  negotiations ;  and  for  this  purpose  you  will  be  equally 
solicitous  to  remove  his  objections,  and  calm  his  apprehensions  of 
detriment  to  his  interests  or  danger  to  his  country,  should  any  such 
arise  in  his  mind. 

The  great  object  of  your  mission  is,  as  I  have  explained  it  in 
my  letter  to  the  Deb  Bajah,  to  open  a  communication  of  trade 
with  Tassisudon,  and  through  that  place  to  Lhasa  and  the  most 
distant  parts  of  Tibet.  The  advantages  of  such  a  plan  to  the  Deb 
Bajah  himself  cannot  escape  him.  His  capital  will  become  the 
centre  of  a  commerce  the  most  extensive  and  the  most  lucrative,  if 
properly  improved,  of  any  inland  trade  perhaps  in  the  world,  and 
will  derive  the  greatest  benefits  from  it^  by  being  the  medium  of 
communication  between  the  countries  of  Tibet  and  Bengal  This 
country  is  too  poor  to  be  an  object  of  conquest,  and  the  expense 
and  difficulty  of  maintaining  the  possession  of  it,  if  it  were  subdued, 
would  be  an  insuperable  objection  to  the  attempt.  To  these  you 
will  add  such  other  arguments  as  your  own  experience  and  recollec- 
tion may  suggest  to  you  to  engage  the  Bajah's  acquiescence  in  your 
plan,  and  his  steady  support  of  it  hereafter.  The  only  obstacle 
that  can  oppose  your  success  is  the  jealousy  of  this  Government. 
This  you  will  find  no  difficulty  in  removing,  and  in  convincing  him 
that  it  is  repugnant  to  every  interest  of  the  Company  to  look  to 
any  other  connection  with  his  country,  than  that  of  making  it  a 
mart  or  channel  for  a  feur  and  honourable  commerce,  which  will 
conduce  as  much  to  his  interest  as  ours.  Enclosed  I  send  you 
copies  of  two  letters  which  I  have  written  to  the  Bajah  since  you 
left  him,  which  you  may  make  use  of  as  arguments  of  the  sincerity 
and  earnestness  of  my  professions.^ 


From  Mb.  Boglb  to  Wabben  Hastings. 

KucH  Bahab,  June  9,  1775. 

I  was  made  very  happy  by  the  letter  you  honoured  me  with  of 
the  9th  ultimo,  and  would  have  certainly  continued  some  time 
longer  with  the  Deb  Bajah,  who  pressed  me  to  it,  but  the  Lama's 

^  See  pp.  53  and  54. 


188  EXCLUSION  OF  EUBOPEANS.  [Ch.  XVU. 

Gosain  being  anxious  to  get  down  to  Calcutta,  and  myself  oat  of 
order,  with  the  rains  ready  to  set  in,  when  I  would  have  found  it 
almost  impossible  to  trayel,  prevented  me,  and  will,  I  hope,  plead 
my  excuse. 

r  have  settled  matters  with  the  Bajah  in  the  best  manner  I  could, 
though,  I  am  a&aid,  not  according  to  your  wishes.  There  was,  I 
beg  leave  to  assure  you,  no  possibility  of  obtaining  his  consent  to 
allow  Englishmen  to  travel  into  his  country.  The  account  I  have 
given,  in  a  separate  addreas,  of  his  own  jealousy,  and  of  his  situation 
with  respect  to  China,  will  serve  to  show  this,  and  I  know  it  to  be 
all  well  founded.  The  Tassisudon  people,^  who  are  all  very  cautious 
and  reserved,  among  the  objections  they  at  first  started  to  my 
proposals  never  once  mentioned  the  name  of  Europeans,  but  used 
their  apprehensions  of  its  breeding  disturbances  and  misunder- 
standings; that  it  had  never  been  the  custom;' and  that  it  might 
give  offence  to  the  Emperor  of  China,  and  such  like  pretexts, 
to  oppose  my  arguments  and  applications  about  trade.  Nay, 
when  I  first  offered  to  satisfy  them  about  Europeans,  which  I 
knew  to  be  the  great  bar,  they  pretended,  insincerely,  that  they 
had  no  objections  particularly  to  the  English  trading  into  their 
country;  that  they  would  even  be  glad  of  it,  and  accompanied 
all  this  with  so  many  professions,  that  I  at  first  thought  I  had 
given  up  this  point  without  gaining  any  advantage.  My  subse- 
quent conferences,  however,  soon  undeceived  me.  In  short,  I  am 
convinced,  if  I  had  gone  strongly  upon  the  article  of  Europeans, 
either  in  Tibet  or  at  Tassisudon,  that  I  should  have  increased 
their  jealousy,  and  have  been  obliged  to  return  without  doing 
anything. 

I  am  afraid,  as  I  have  not  been  able  to  carry  this  pointy  that 
my  commission  will  gain  me  but  Uttle  credit  with  the  world ;  yet  I 
cannot  help  flattering  myself  that  it  will  be  attended  with  not 
inconsiderable  advantages  to  Bengal.  If  the  Company  think  that 
commerce  cannot  be  pushed  with  spirit,  or  carried  to  any  extent,  with- 
out the  establishment  of  factories  and  the  employment  of  English 
agents,  they  have  only  to  consider  what  the  trade  of  Bengal  was 
before  Europeans  had  anything  to  do  with  it ;  or,  which  is  more  to 
the  purpose,  to  reflect  what  the  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet 

1  That  \By  the  offlcialB. 


Ch.  XVn.]        NEGOTIATIONS  WITH  THE  DEB  RAJAH.  189 

was  while  Nepal  ^  continaed  free  and  independent.  I  am  sure  if 
your  connection  with  Teshn  Lama  and  the  Deb  Bajah  serves  to 
bring  it  back  to  that  point,  the  benefit  to  Bengal  will  be  very  great. 
Bnt  I  ask  pardon  for  presnming  to  trouble  you  with  my  ideas  on 
a  subject  you  are  so  fully  master  of .  As  to  myself,  after  having  so 
long  had  the  honour  and  satisfaction  of  serving  you,  I  am  only 
anxious  that  I  may  not,  on  this  occasion,  suffer  in  your  good 
opinion. 

I  hope  you  wiU  be  pleased  to  approve  of  my  reasons  for  not 
adhering  strictly  to  the  letter  of  your  instructions.  I  am  convinced 
things  will  soon  come  into  the  channel  you  seem  to  wish,  and  that 
the  merchants,  deterred  by  the  length  of  the  journey,  and  the 
opposition  of  dimate  between  Lhasa  and  Calcutta,  will  fall  into  the 
way  of  selling  and  exchanging  their  commodities  either  at  fiinjipu^ 
or  at  Pari-jong,  the  frontier  town  of  Tibet.  But,  without  securing 
to  them  a  freedom  of  going  and  coming  from  Bengal  to  Tibet, 
I  was  afraid  that  the  Bhutanese,  having  everything  in  their  hands, 
would  be  able  to  fix  the  prices  of  goods,  and  the  trade  would 
become  trifling  and  languishing.  When  the  Deb  Bajah's  fears  of 
another  insurrection  blow  over,  I  should  think  permission  for  the 
native  Tibetan  merchants  to  come  to  Binjipu  may  be  easily 
obtained ;  but  this  must  be  done  through  the  Lama. 

I  could  think  of  no  way  so  effectual  to  engage  the  Bajah's 
steady  support  and  protection  of  traders  as  imposing  a  small  duty 
upon  their  goods.  I  threw  out  this  in  my  conversations  before 
the  receipt  of  your  commands ;  but  it  was  not  taken  up,  and  so  I 
dropped  it. 

A  few  days  before  I  left  Tassisudon,  the  Deb  Bajah  pressed 
me  very  mudi  about  some  indulgence  he  wants  to  solicit  for  the 
Bajah  of  Bahar ;  but  as  I  understood  nothing  of  the  matter,  and 
he  did  not  seem  to  understand  it  well  himself,  I  would  make  him 
no  promises,  but  advised  him  to  represent  it  to  you  by  his  vakfl. 
He  then  asked  me  to  represent  it  also,  which  I  promised  to  do, 

>  By  Nepal,  in   this  work,  Nepal  all  the  nnmeroiiB  little  states  between 

proper  is  always  to  be  nnderstood,  or  the  Mechi  and  Sntlej,  including  the 

the  great  valley  which  was  conqnered  Klranti  country,  elsewhere  adverted  to 

from  the  peaceful  commercial  Newars  by  Bogle, 

by  the  martial  Gorkhas,  who,  before  *  Paro. 
the  end  of  the  last  century,  had  reduced 


190  RETURN  TO  BENGAL.  [Ch.  XVII. 

after  I  shall  know  what  it  is ;  and  yentnred  to  assnre  him  of  your 
listening  to  any  reasonable  application  from  him ;  but  &rther  than 
this  I  wonld  not  do  or  say. 

The  Deb  Bajah's  vakil  aocompanied  me  from  Tassisndon  ^to 
Bnxa-Duar.  I  have  pushed  on  to  Bahar,  in  order  to  prepare  things 
for  the  reception  of  him  and  the  Lama's  Gosains,  and  I  expect 
their  arrival  here  to-morrow  or  next  day. 

I  never  received  the  letter  you  were  so  good  as  to  write  me 
by  the  way  of  Nepal.  I  saw  a  vakil  of  Crorkha  Bajah  two  or 
three  times  at  Te^n  Lmnbo,  but  he  said  nothing  abont  it«  I 
was  supplied  with  what  money  I  wanted  by  the  old  Gosain  who 
now  accompanies  me,  of  which  I  will  afterwards  lay  the  accounts 
before  you. 

I  gave  the  Deb  Bajah  a  strong  character  of  the  Arab  horses, 
and  he  is  much  pleased  with  your  present,  which,  however,  is  not 
yet  arrived  here.  He  seems  abundantly  desirous  of  cultivating 
your  friendship,  but  in  such  a  way  as  may  not  give  umbrage  to 
Lhasa. 

I  am  sorry  for  the  mortality  among  the  cattle,  because  it 
occasions  the  delay  of  a  season.  I  have  given  Paima  a  particular 
memorandum  to  get  some  more  goats  and  cows  sent  down  after  the 
rains;  also  to  put  the  Lama's  people  in  mind  of  the  tus,  which 
he  promised  to  procure  for  you ;  though,  being  a  wild  animal,  I  am 
afraid  it  will  hardly  live.  We  caught  many  musk  goats,  but  they 
all  died  in  a  few  days. 

I  am  copying  out  the  memoranda  about  my  journey,  which 
I  shall  have  the  honour  to  send  you  from  Sahib  Grs^j  or  Dinajptir; 
the  other  papers  I  beg  leave  to  defer  laying  before  you  till  my 
arrival  in  Calcutta,  wh^i  I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  explaining 
them  to  you  in  person. 


Ch.  XVin.]  DESOBIPnON  OF  BHUTAN.  191 


OHAPTEE  XVni. 

GENERAL  REPORT  BY  MB.  BOGLE  ON  HIS  RETURN  FROM 

TIBET. 

To  THE  Hon.  Wabrbn  HAsriNas,  Governoe-Gbnbral,  &c. 

Hon.  Sir, — The  commission  for  opening  a  free  intercourse 
1}etween  the  inhabitants  of  Bengal  and  Tibet  with  which  you  were 
pleased  to  entrust  me  being  now  finished,  I  beg  leave  to  lay  before 
you  an  account  of  the  course  and  issue  of  my  negotiations. 

But  as  the  state  of  the  countries  which  I  lately  yisited  is  little 
known,  it  may  not  be  improper  to  premise  some  circumstances 
r^arding  their  situation  and  goyemment.  In  doing  this,  however, 
I  shall  endeavour  to  avoid  entering  into  those  minute  details  which 
might  sweU  this  address  to  an  improper  length. 

The  range  of  mountains  which  stretches  from  the  Murung 
country  to  the  banks  of  the  Brahmaputra  and  the  north-east  frontier 
of  Bengal  i8  inhabited  by  a  people  knomi  in  Bengal  by  the  name 
of  Bhutanese.^  These  mountains  are  divided  by  glens  or  deep 
valleys,  with  rapid  rivers  rmming  through  them.  They  are  covered 
with  the  loftiest  trees,  and  the  snow  lies  upon  the  tops  of  some  of 
them  all  the  year  round.  The  valleys  and  least  steep  parts  of  the 
mountains  are  cultivated,  producing  wheat,  barley,  and  rice,  suffi- 
cient not  only  for  the  support  of  the  people,  but  even  to  form  a 
considerable  article  in  their  commerce  with  their  northern  neigh- 
bours. 

About  two  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago,  this  country,  which  I 
shall  distinguish  by  the  name  of  Bhutan,  is  said  to  have  been  united 
under  one  government  by  Noanumgay,  a  disciple  of  the  Lamas  of 

>  The  Trans-niyean  people,  whom  we  They  are  very  numerouB  both  in  the 

call  Tibetan   and  Bhotias,    are  well  mountains    and    in    the   terai.     (See 

known  by  the  latter  name  in  the  plains  Hodgson's  *  Languages  and  Religion  of 

of  India.    Bnt  the  Cis-nivean  people,  or  Nepal  and  Tibet,*  pp.  ia-15,  29-44, 

Himdlayan  tribes,  are  never  so  called.  and  45-65.) 


192  GOVEBNMENT  OP  BHUTAN.  [Ch.  XVIII. 

Tibei  Before  that  time  it  was  parcelled  out  among  a  nnmber  of  petty 
and  independent  chief taina^  who  were  engaged  in  perpetual  wars  and 
commanded  fierce  and  barharous  yassals.  Noanumgay,  by  forming 
laws  and  introducing  religion,  in  concurrence  with  other  causes, 
rendered  the  people  obedient  to  a  strict  and  regular  administration. 
He  was  reyerenoed  by  his  subjects  during  his  lifetime  as  a  great 
Lama,  and  is  still  worshipped  by  his  descendants.  His  fame,  how- 
ever, is  confined  to  Bhutan,  and  his  spirit  is  considered  only  as  an 
emanation  from  the  pontifb  of  Tibet. 

Upon  his  death  his  soul  was  supposed  to  be  divided  into  equal 
portions,  and  to  animate  three  different  children,  who  were  regarded 
as  Lamas,  and  the  supreme  power  was  jointly  vested  in  them, 
assisted  by  the  clergy,  to  whom  they  owed  their  elevation.  The 
same  ingenious  device  famished  them  with  successors,  and  this  form 
of  government  still  continues.  One  of  these  Lamas,  named  Lama 
Giassa-tu,  died  about  twelve  years  ago,  and  the  person  into  whom  his 
soul  passed  is  not  yet  discovered ;  another,  Lama  Shabdong,  is  a  boy 
seven  years  of  age,^  so  that  the  whole  authority  of  this  priestly 
government  at  present  resides  in  Lama  Bimboche.^  The  executive 
administration  is  entrusted  to  an  elective  officer,  styled  Gusho 
Debo,  who  is  known  in  Bengal  by  the  name  of  the  Deb  Bajah. 

The  abilities  of  Deb  Judhur,  tiie  last  person  who  held  this  office, 
enabled  him  to  render  himself  independent  of  the  Lamas  and  the 
clergy,  and  he  ruled  Bhutan  during  five  years  with  an  absolute 
sway ;  but  the  oppression  of  his  government,  his  violent  measures 
in  regard  to  Bahar,  and  the  unfortunate  war  with  the  English  in 
which  this  engaged  him,  afforded  the  clergy  an  opportunity  of 
deposing  him,  of  driving  him  into  exile,  and  of  electing  a  new  chief 
in  his  stead.  Upon  this  revolution  Lama  Bimboche  came  to  be 
considered  as  supreme,  and  regained  that  authority  in  the  government 
to  which  by  the  ancient  constitution  he  thinks  himself  entitled. 

The  kingdom  of  Bhutan  is  tsa  from  being  populous.  The 
natives  in  the  interior  part  of  the  country  are  generally  above  the 
middle  size,  of  a  robust  and  muscular  make,  and  of  a  light  copper 

*  See  p.  39.  Geysey,   and   Lam-Bimbochy.     (See 

*  Known  in  Bengal  as  the  Dharma  '^BemarkBontheBeligiousInstitaticfia 
Bajah.  The  three  Lamas  of  Bhutan  of  the  Inhabitants  of  Bhutan,**  *  Tzana- 
are  oalled  by  Mr.  Davis,  the  companion  actions  of  B.  A.  B.*  vol.  ii.  4to.) 

of  Captain  Turner,  Lam-Sebdo,  Lam- 


M 

M 

B  s 
I  i 


r 


Ch.  XVm.]  BHUTAN  AND  TIBET.  193 

complexion.  They  are  of  a  hasty  and  qnarrelsome  temper,  and 
addicted  to  the  use  of  spirituous  liquors.  Theft  and  robhery,  except 
in  time  of  public  disturbances,  are  little  known.  The  higher  class  of 
people  are  formal  and  ceremonious  in  their  manners,  fond  of  long 
speeches,  and  although  often  acute  and  judicious  in  the  affairs  of 
their  own  state,  yet  having  almost  no  intercourse  with  strangers, 
are  reserved  and  difficult  in  business. 

The  country  is  defended  by  the  inhabitants,  who  are  all  trained 
to  the  use  of  the  bow  or  of  the  matchlock,  and  its  steep  mountains 
and  arduous  roads,  leading  over  precipices  and  covered  with 
thickets,  form  a  barrier  which  an  enemy  might  find  it  difficult  to 
surmount. 

The  revenue  of  Bhutan  is  paid  chiefly  in  rice,  butter,  and  other 
articles,  which  are  consumed  by  the  priests  and  servants  of  govern- 
ment, or  hoarded  up  in  storehouses.  The  low  countries  which  they 
possess  on  the  borders  of  Bengal  yield  some  money,  and  the 
custom  by  which  upon  the  death  of  a  public  officer  his  estate 
escheats  to  the  government,  opens  another  source  of  revenue. 
But  the  people,  although  enjoying  aU  the  necessaries  of  Ufe,  are 
possessed  of  little  wealth,  and,  indeed,  have  little  occasion  for  it. 
The  taxes  upon  the  inhabitants  are  Ught;  their  possessions  are 
hereditary ;  they  hold  their  lands  upon  military  tenures,  being  bound 
to  fight,  to  carry  burdens,  and  to  perform  other  services  for  the 
government. 

The  kingdom  of  Tibet  lies  to  the  northward  of  Bhutan.  The 
frontier  town  is  Pari-jong.  Tibet  is  called  by  the  natives  Pu — pro- 
nounced as  in  French.  Tibet  is  full  of  mountains,  inferior  in  height 
to  those  in  the  Deb  Bajah's  country,  though  they  take  their  rise 
from  a  more  elevated  plain,  which  are  intermixed  with  more  extensive 
valleys.  As  Bhutan  is  the  most  woody  country  I  ever  saw,  Tibet  is 
the  most  bare  and  unsheltered;  except  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
villages,  a  tree  is  seldom  to  be  seen.  The  hills  are  covered  with 
sand,  stones,  and  gravel.  The  soil  of  the  villages,  though  poor,  is 
rather  better,  and  produces,  with  good  management,  wheat,  barley, 
and  some  peas,  but  no  rice. 

The  cUmate  is  extremely  cold ;  the  lakes  and  rivers  are  covered 
with  ice.  The  thermometer,  in  the  month  of  December,  at  Oham- 
namring,  which  is  in  latitude  31°  39',  and  about  half  a  degree  to  the 

o 


194  POLITICAL  EVENTS  AT  LHASA.  [Oh.  XVUI. 

northward  of  Lhaeuty  used  sometimes  to  be  j^thin  3^  of  the  bottom 
of  the  scale,  or  29°  under  freezing  point ;  and  even  in  the  middle  of 
April,  and  in  a  more  southern  sitnation,  heavy  showers  of  snow  fell, 
and  standing  water  froze.  The  great  elevation  of  the  comitry  aboye 
the  sea,  and  the  northerly  winds  which  blow  oyer  Tatary,  probably 
occasion  this  seyerity  in  the  climate. 

The  Tibetans  are  of  a  smaller  size  and  of  a  make  much  less  robust 
than  their  southern  neighbours.  Their  complexion  is  naturally  as 
Mr  as  the  people  in  the  south  of  Europe,  and  many  of  them  haye 
colour,  some  are  quite  ruddy:  they  are  of  a  mild  and  cheerful 
temper.  The  higher  rank  of  people  at  the  Lama's  court  are  poUte, 
and  entertaining  in  conyersation,  with  which  they  neyer  mix  any 
compliments  or  flattery. 

Tibet  was  formerly  independent,  being  goyemed  by  a  succession 
of  hereditary  kings.  About  sixty  years  ago  the  ministers,  con- 
spiring together,  put  their  king  to  death,  and  assumed  the  adminis- 
tration into  their  own  hands.^  Mewan  Gusho,  his  cupbearer,  eecapel 
towards  Ladak,  and  haying  spent  some  years  in  engaging  the 
interest  of  the  neighbouring  cbiefs,  returned  with  a  powerful  army, 
defeated  the  ministers,  and  engaged,  in  consideration  of  protection, 
to  hold  his  crown  under  the  Emperor  of  China.  After  a  wise  and 
prosperous  reign  of  thirty  years  he  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
Wang  Gusho. 

The  Ijamas  had  long  before  this  established  themselves  and 
their  religion  in  Tibet.  By  the  liberality  or  superstition  of  its 
kings,  or  by  their  influence  with  the  Tatars,  who  often  invaded  the 
country,  they  procured  grants  of  lands  and  villages,  where  they 
founded  temples  and  monasteries.  They  were  considered  aa 
sovereign  pontifls,  and  adored  as  Gt)d's  vicegerents.  PilgrimageB 
were  made  to  them  from  difie^ent  parts  of  Tatary,  ofierings  of  con- 
siderable value  were  presented  to  them,  but  they  enjoyed  not  that 
degree  of  temporal  power  which  the  imprudence  of  Wang  Cusho 
enabled  them  to  obtain. 

The  tyranny  and  oppression  of  his  administration,  the  murder 
of  his  brother,  and,  above  all,  his  intention  of  becoming  independent 
of  Ghina,  were  represented  by  the  Dalai  Lama  in  the  strongest 

*  This  was  when  an  anny  of  Dsangarians  invaded  Lhasa  in  1717,  and  kiUed 
the  Gesnb  Bimboch^,  orBegent  (Nomen-khan),  named  Latsan. 


Oh.  XVm.]  CHINESE  SUPREMACY  AT  LHASA.  195 

colours  to  the  Court  of  Peking,  which  accordingly  issued  orders  to 
its  officers  at  Lhasa,  and  Wang  Gnsho,  betrayed  by  fidse  promises, 
suffered  death  while  he  expected  to  be  honoured  with  marks  of  the 
Emperor's  favour.^  The  tumult  raised  by  his  dependents,  in  which 
a  great  number  of  the  Chinese  were  slain,  was  soon  quelled.  Their 
attempt  to  place  his  son  in  the  government  was  defeated  by  the 
timidity  and  flight  of  the  mother,  and,  according  to  the  severe 
policy  of  the  Chinese,  every  branch  of  the  family  was  extirpated. 

In  consequence  of  this  resolution  the  Lamas  acquired  fresh 
power  and  rose  to  political  consequence.  The  Emperor,  either 
in  consideration  of  the  Dalai  Lama's  pacific  character,  or  as  a 
reward  of  his  fidelity,  committed  the  administration  into  his  hands, 
and  his  mild  and  popular  government  continued  to  the  end  of  his 
life.  Upon  this  event,  which  happened  about  eighteen  years  ago,^ 
Teshu  Lama,  the  next  in  dignity,  came  to  be  considered  as  the  chief 
man  in  the  country.  His  character  and  abilities  had  secured  him 
the  fiEiTour  of  the  Emperor,  and  his  representations  had  great  weight 
at  the  Court  of  Peking.  About  two  years  after  the  Dalai  Lama's 
death  he  discoTered  the  child  into  whose  body,  according  to  their 
belief,  the  soul  of  the  departed  Lama  had  passed,  and  placed  him  in 
the  chair  of  Potala,  and  his  influence  with  the  Emperor  procured 
for  Gtesub  Bimboche,  the  cupbei^rer  of  the  former  Lama^  the 
executive  administration  during  his  minority. 

Two  Chinese  viceroys,  with  a  guard  of  a  thousand  soldiers,  are 
stationed  at  Lhasa,  and  are  changed  every  three  years.  The 
Emperor  of  China  is  acknowledged  as  the  soyereign  of  the  country; 
the  appointment  to  the  first  offices  in  the  state  is  made  by  his 
order,  and,  in  all  measures  of  consequence,  reference  is  first  had  to 
the  Court  of  Peking;  but  the  internal  government  of  the  country 
is  committed  entirely  to  natives ;  the  Chinese  in  general  are  con- 
fined to  the  capital,  no  tribute  is  exacted,  and  the  people  of  Tibet, 
except  at  Lhasa,  hardly  feel  the  weight  of  a  foreign  yoke. 

The  executive  administration  is  in  the  hands  of  Gesub  Bim- 
boche and  four  other  ministers,  styled  Eahlons.  The  goyemors  of 
forts  and  provinces  are  appointed  by  them,  and  the  revenue  is 
collected  by  persons  sent  annually  from  Lhasa.     But  as  the  Dalai 

»  This  was  in  1749. 

'  This  Dalai  Lama's  name  was  Lobsang  Kalsang.    He  died  in  1758. 

o  2 


196        PARALLEL  BETWEEN  THE  LAMAS  AND  POPES.  [Ch.  XVHI. 

Lama  is  now  nearly  of  age/  it  is  expected  that  the  Emperor  of 
China  will  invest  him  with  the  supreme  anthority  which  his  pre- 
decessor enjoyed. 

The  inflnence  of  Teshn  Lama  in  the  goyemment  proceeds 
chiefly  from  the  veneration  that  is  paid  to  his  character  and  the 
weight  of  his  abilities.  The  Emperors  of  China  being  of  Tatar 
extraction,  profess  the  religion  of  the  Lamas,  and  reverence  them 
as  the  head  of  their  fedth ;  and  the  present  monarch  undertakes  no 
expedition  without  consulting  Teshu  Lama,  and  sending  him 
offerings  to  engage  his  prayers  for  its  success.  The  influence 
which  an  able  pontiff  may  derive  from  this  is  obvious,  and  although 
Gesub  Bimboch6  is  jealous  of  it,  yet  he  is  obliged  to  pay  attention 
to  the  advice  of  Teshu  Lama. 

Any  one  that  would  give  himself  the  trouble,  might  draw  a 
striking  parallel  between  the  Lamas  and  the  ancient  Boman  Pon- 
tiff. The  situation  of  the  former,  with  respect  to  the  monarchs  of 
China,  might  well  be  compared  to  the  protection  and  authority, 
which  the  successors  of  St.  Peter  derived  from  the  German 
emperors.  Their  pretensions  to  infallibility,  the  veneration  in  which 
they  are  held  by  the  people,  the  wide  extent  of  their  spiritual  dominion, 
reaching  over  all  Tatary  and  a  great  part  of  China,  are  perfectly 
similar.  But  this  influence  over  the  minds  of  the  people,  possessed 
by  both,  has  been  exercised  by  the  Lamas,  perhaps,  in  a  manner 
more  conducive  to  the  happiness  of  mankind.  The  oblations  of 
their  followers  are  voluntary ;  their  government  is  mild  and  equit* 
able ;  they  enter  into  no  wars,  but,  on  the  contrary,  often  exert 
their  authority  in  settling  the  quarrels  among  contending  states* 
Li  their  private  character  they  are  decent  and  exemplary,  and,  if  I 
may  judge  of  others  by  one  under  whose  roof  I  lived,  they  are 
humane,  charitable,  and  intelligent. 

The  religion  of  the  Lamas  is  either  derived  from  that  of  the 
Hindus,  or  improved  by  it.  They  retain,  therefore,  the  greatest 
veneration  for  the  Granges  and  the  places  held  holy  in  Hindustan. 
Before  that  country  was  invaded  by  the  Mussulmans,  the  Lamas 
had  monasteriefl  and  other  reUgious  foundations  in  Ben^d,  to  which 
the  Tibetan  clergy  used  to  xesort  in  order  to  study  the  doctrines  and 
learning  of  the  Brahmans.  But  the  conquest  of  the  Moghul  put 

'  This  was  Lobaang  Champal,  who  died  in  1805. 


Ch.  XVUI.]  trade  THEOUGH  NEPAL.  197 

end  to  the  intercotusa  The  Lamas'  temples  were  plundered  and 
destroyed,  and  their  people  driven  out  of  the  country ;  since  which 
there  has  been  little  connection  between  the  inhabitants  of  Tibet 
and  Bengal 

The  trade,  however,  which  nsed  to  be  carried  on  between  the 
two  countries  was  formerly  very  extensive,  and  the  returns  being 
made  in  gold  dust,  musk,  cowtails,  and  other  valuable  articles,  it 
was  highly  beneficial  to  Bengal.  I  formerly  took  the  liberty  to 
represent  to  you  the  causes  which  of  late  years  have  occasioned  the 
decline  of  the  trade,  and  I  now  beg  leave  to  lay  before  you  an 
account  of  the  steps  that  I  took  to  remove  them. 

Although  Teshu  Lama  is  not  entrusted  with  the  actual  govern* 
ment  of  the  country,  yet  his  authority  and  influence  appear  fuUy 
equal  to  accomplish  the  views  which  you  entertain  in  regaid  to  the 
encouragement  of  trade.  His  passports  to  merchants  and  travellers 
are  obeyed  universally  throughout  Tibet.  He  is  reverenced  by  his 
own  people,  he  is  respected  by  his  neighbours,  and  his  mild  and 
pacific  character  seems  peculiarly  suited  to  promote  commerce.  I 
found  in  the  Lama,  therefore,  the  readiest  disposition  to  co-operate 
with  you  in  removing  the  obstacles  to  a  free  trade,  and  in  adopting 
such  measures  as  might  increase  the  intercourse  between  the 
country  and  Tibet. 

The  tyrannical  and  fedthless  character  of  the  Gorkha  Bajah,^ 
and  his  invasion  of  the  territories  of  Demo  Jong,^  a  Bajah  subject 
to  Lhasa,  left,  however,  no  room  for  any  negotiations  with  him 
towards  reviving  the  trade  through  Nepal.  But  immediately  upon 
the  news  of  his  death,  which  arrived  while  I  was  at  Teshu  Lumbo, 
the  Lama  wrote  to  his  successor,  Sing  Pertab,  advising  him,  in  the 
strongest  manner,  to  allow  merchants  to  trade  through  his  country. 
His  letter  on  this  occasion  was  short,  and  I  may  be  excused  perhaps 
in  inserting  a  translation  of  it : 

"To  SiNO  Pbrtab,— 

"  [After  a  number  of  titles]  I  have  heard  of  the  death  of 
your  fiftther,  Prithi  Narayan.  As  this  is  the  will  of  God  you  will 
not  let  your  heart  be  cast  down.  Ton  have  now  succeeded  to  the 
throne,  and  it  is  proper  that  you  attend  to  the  happiness  of  your 

*  Prithi  Narayan.  '  Sikkiniy  or  Deun-jong. 


198  NEGOTIATIONS  FOR  OPENING  TRADE.       [Ch.  XVUI. 

people,  and  allow  all  merchants,  as  Hindus,  Mussulmans,  and  the 
four  castes,  to  go  and  come,  and  carry  on  their  trade  freely,  which 
will  tend  to  your  advantage  and  to  your  good  name.  At  present 
they  are  afraid  of  you,  and  no  one  will  enter  your  counby.  What- 
ever has  been  the  ancient  custom  let  it  be  observed  between  yon 
and  me.  It  is  improper  that  there  should  be  more  on  your  part, 
and  it  is  improper  that  there  should  be  more  on  mine." 

The  Lama  wrote  also  to  the  merchants  at  Lhasa  and  Tesha 
Lumbo,  the  two  principal  towns  in  Tibet.  He  informed  them  of 
the  security  and  protection  which  merchants  enjoy  at  Bengal,  and 
advised  them  to  send  gumashtas^  thither.  The  Kashmiri  and 
(josain  merchants  afterwards  assured  me,  that  in  consequence  of 
the  encouragement  and  assistance  which  the  Lama  had  offered 
them,  and  the  promises  which  I  gave  them  of  freedom  and  security 
in  Bengal,  they  proposed,  in  case  they  could  obtain  leave  from  the 
Deb  Bajah,  to  pass  through  his  country,  to  send  ffimuxshtaa  to  Calcutta 
to  purchase  goods,  as  soon  as  the  rains  were  over ;  and  a  wealthy 
Gbsain  merchant,  afraid  to  travel  through  Nepal,  actually  embraced 
the  opportunity  of  accompanying  me  to  Calcutta.  The  Tibet 
merchants  also  came  to  visit  me.  But  at  the  same  time  that 
they  expressed  their  desire  of  complying  with  the  Lama's  com- 
mands, they  enlarged  upon  the  heat  and  unhealthiness  of  Bengal, 
and  declared  their  apprehensions  of  travelling  into,  what  they  con- 
sidered, a  distant  and  unknown  country. 

Prejudices  of  this  kind  are  to  be  cured  only  by  habit,  and  your 
compliance  with  the  Teshu  Lama's  desire  of  founding  a  monastery 
and  temple  on  the  banks  of  the  Gkmges  will  probably  tend  to 
remove  Uiese  strong  prepossessions  against  the  climate  of  Bengal, 
and  to  produce  an  intercourse  with  the  northern  nations.  The  safe 
return  of  the  people  whom  the  Lama  proposes  to  send  next  winter 
to  visit  the  holy  places  in  Bengal  will  serve  to  inspire  their  country- 
men with  confidence ;  the  fondness  of  the  Tibetans  for  everything 
strange  or  curious,  strengthened  by  religion,  will  probably  lead 
many  others  to  undertake  so  meritorious  a  journey;  and  these 
pilgrimages,  like  the  Hajj  at  Mekkah,  may  in  time  open  a  consideir- 
able  mart  for  the  commodities  of  Bengal. 

Nor  is  the  benefit  which  Bengal  may  derive  from  the  resort  of 

*  Agents. 


Ch.  XYin.]         CHARACTER  OF  THE  TESHU  LAMA.  199 

Tibetans  the  only  adyantage  which  the  Company  may  obtain  by 
their  connection  with  Teshn  Lama.  He  has  written  to  the 
Changay  Lama,  who  is  the  high>priest  at  the  Court  of  Peking,  and 
in  great  &yonr  with  the  Emperor,  advising  him  to  send  his  people 
to  visit  the  temples  in  Hindustan.  He  has  also  promised  to  nse 
his  best  offices  with  the  Emperor  of  China  to  procure  leave  for  the 
Company  to  send  a  deputation  to  Peking.  The  first,  I  am  con- 
vincedy  will  take  place;  and  although,  from  the  cautions  and  jealous 
policy  of  the  Chinese,  I  am  not  too  sanguine  as  to  the  last,  yet  the 
advantage  of  opening  even  an  indirect  communication  with  the 
Court  of  Peking  is,  I  humbly  apprehend,  an  object  of  some  impor- 
tance to  the  Company. 

I  could  have  wished,  while  I  was  in  Tibet,  and  within  a  few 
days'  journey  of  Lhasa,  to  have  proceeded  to  that  city,  in  order  to 
have  formed  a  connection  with  Oreeuh  Bimboch6,  and  the  rest  of  the 
administration  there.  But  their  jealousy  rendered  them  averse  from 
it.  I  could  not  have  seen  them,  considering  the  pubhc  character 
I  bore,  without  a  considerable  expense  for  presents ;  and  while  the 
Company's  views  in  a  communication  with  Tibet  are  only  to  an 
extension  of  commerce,  \  am  inclined  to  think  that  Teshu  Lama's 
influence  is  fully  sufficient  to  accompUsh  them. 

After  passing  five  months  in  Teshu  Lama's  palace  I  returned  to 
Bhutan.  The  Lama  at  the  same  time  wrote  to  the  Deb  Rajah  on 
the  subject  of  merchants,  and  sent  one  of  his  people  to  assist  me  in 
my  negotiations  at  Tassisudon. 

But  I  had  now  to  prosecute  my  commission  under  circumstances 
very  different  from  what  I  had  experienced  in  Tibet.  Teshu  Lama, 
accustomed  to  an  intercourse  with  strangers,  fond  of  negotiation, 
and  attentive  to  everything  that  can  raise  his  character,  entered 
warmly  into  views  which  coincided  with  his  own.  He  had  long 
wished  for  an  opportunity  of  forming  a  connection  with  some  of 
the  powers  in  Hindustan.  The  authority  of  the  Company  was  well 
known  to  him,  and  he  had  already  got  great  reputation  by  the 
peace  which  his  mediation  had  procured  for  the  Bhutanese.  His 
desire,  therefore,  of  cultivating  a  friendship  which  tended  to 
increase  his  influence,  led  him  zealously  to  second  your  application, 
while  his  endeavours  for  the  ease  and  convenience  of  merchants 
served  to  extend  his  fame.    As  he  speaks  the  Hindustan  language. 


20Q 


NEGOTIATIONS  IN  BHUTAN. 


[Ch.  XVIII. 


and  poasesseB  a  great  degree  of  candour  and  a&biliij,^  he  conversed 
Yrith  me  freely  on  every  snbject,  and  desired  me  to  make  my  appli- 
cation immediately  to  him.  He  communicated  to  me  the  opposition 
which  the  government  at  Lhasa  had  made  to  my  jotimey ;  he  gave 
me  their  correspondence  to  read ;  he  explained  to  me  the  letters 
which  he  wrote  to  them  abont  trade,  and  told  me  plainly  what 
conld  be  accomplished  and  what  ootdd  not. 

The  Deb  Bajah,  on  the  contrary,  secluded  from  any  connection 
with  foreigners,^  is  difficult  of  access,  stiff  and  ceremonious  in  his 
manners,  and  indecisive  in  business.  He  is  guided  entirely  by  his 
officers,  who  are  reserved,  suspicious,  and  evasive ;  and  in  every 
matt^  of  consequence  the  humour  of  several  hundred  priests  is  to 
be  consulted,  and  the  opinion  of  Lama  Rimboch^,  who,  without 
experience  or  abilities,  considers  himself  as  supreme  in  the  govern- 
ment, is  to  be  received. 

The  administration  at  Tassisudon  accordingly  made  many 
objections  to  allowing  merchants  to  pass  through  Bhutan,  insisting 
that  it  had  never  been  the  custom  for  strangers  to  come  into  their 
kingdom ;  that  the  inhabitants  were  of  a  hot  and  violent  temper, 
and  the  country  woody  and  mountainous^  and,  in  case  of  a  mer- 
chant being  robbed,  it  might  occasion  disputes  and  misunder- 
standings between  them  and  the  Company's  government.  I  will 
not  here  take  up  your  time  with  a  repetition  of  the  arguments  I 
employed  in  combating  their  objections,  and  in  endeavouring  to 
convince  them  of  the  benefit  which  their  country  would  derive 
from  the  resort  of  merchants ;  for  I  was  sensible,  while  I  used  them, 
that  the  opposition  of  the  Bhutanese  ^  to  my  proposals  proceeded 
from  motives  which  they  industriously  concealed.  They  were 
apprehensive  that  the  admission  of  foreign  merchants  into  their 


'  In  a  similar  light  the  DaUi  Lama 
showed  himself  to  Mr.  Hodgson  when 
Besident  in  Nepal ;  and  Mr.  Hodgson 
remarks  that  such  dispositions  might 
be  utilized  now  that  time  has  demon- 
strated that  we  have  no  purpose  to 
serve,  save  such  an  extension  of  com- 
merce as  must  benefit  the  Him&laya 
and  Tibet  far  more  than  oureelves,  and 
moreover  render  the  continuance  of 
peace  between  as  more  secure,  through 
the  inevitable  effects  of  mutually  bene- 
ficial and  kindly  personal  intercourse. 


'  Yet  the  Deb  was  the  secular  chief. 
Mr.  Hodgson  makes  the  following  re- 
mark on  this :  *'  The  Dharma  (Lama 
Bimboch^),  or  spiritual  chief,  ahouid  be 
the  secluded  one,  not  the  Deb  Bajsh. 
Again,  the  Teshu  Lama,  though  he  is 
also  the  spiritual  chief,  is.  repreaented 
by  Mr.  Bogle  as  the  active  and  intel- 
ligent administrator  in  regard  to  inter- 
national relations.  This  shows  that 
talent  and  energy  will  assert  themselves 
despite  theoretical  bars.*' 

'  The  officials,  not  the  people. 


Ch.  XVIIL] 


NEGOTIATIONS  IN  BHUTAN. 


201 


country  wotild  lessen  the  profits  which  they  at  present  deriye  from 
their  trade  with  Tibet,^  and  they  were  still  more  afraid  that  by 
allowing  strangers  to  come  into  Bhutan  they  would  open  a  door  to 
the  introduction  of  Europeans. 

Neither  of  these  reasons,  howeyer,  were  oyer  ayowed,  or  eyen 
mentioned  by  the  Bhntanese,  bnt  they  were  on  this  aooonnt  more 
difficult  to  oTeroome.  Without  quieting  their  scruples  about 
Europeans,  I  foresaw  that  it  was  impossible  to  obtain  a  com- 
munication with  Tibet  through  their  country,  or  to  procure  the 
aid  and  concurrence  of  the  ministry  at  Lhasa  in  encouraging  and 
extending  the  trade  with  Bengal.  I  therefore  gave  up  a  point 
which  it  was  impossible  to  carry,  and  gave  them  assurances  that 
no  European  merchants  should  enter  Bhutan. 

Some  time  after  my  arrival  at  Tassisudon  I  received  your  com- 
mands of  the  9th  of  May,  in  which  you  direct  me  to  endeavour  to 
render  the  Deb  Bajah's  capital  the  centre  of  communication  be- 
tween Bengal  and  Tibet  As  I  found  it  necessary  to  deviate  in 
some  measure  .firom  the  letter  of  these  orders,  I  hope  you  will 
believe  that  it  proceeded  only  from  my  desire  to  accomplish  more 
effectually  the  purpose  of  my  commission,  and  that  the  following 
reasons  will  serve  to  justify  my  conduct. 

If  the  Deb  Bajah  allowed  freedom  of  trade  through  his  domi- 
nions, and  permitted  the  merchants  at  Tibet  to  come  and  purchase 
goods  in  his  country,  I  should  only  have  had  occasion  to  have 
appHed  for  permission  for  merchants  to  bring  the  commodities 
of  Bengal  to  Binjipu,^  which,  being  the  capital  of  Bhutan,  being 
situated  on  the  road  from  Pari-jong,  and  having  a  communication 
with  Bengal  by  Lukhi-Duar,  Dalim-kotta,  and  Buxa-Duar,  is  well 
adapted  for  a  central  market  for  the  merchandise  of  Bengal  and 
Tibet.  But  the  whole  trade  in  the  more  valuable  sorts  of  goods 
is  engrossed  by  the  Deb  Bajah  and  his  officers,  who  are  in  fact  the 
merchants  of  Bhutan.^  The  few  Tibetans  who  come  to  Binjipu  (Paro) 


*  This  18  the  real  source  of  the  diffi- 
culty still,  as  ever,  experienced  by  us, 
while  trying  to  open  and  liberate  the 
Himalayan  and  trans-Himdlayan  trade. 

•  Paro. 

'  Mr.  Hodgson  observes  that  this  is 
generally  the  case,  and  holds  true  to 
the  present  day.     But  he  says  that 


there  is  no  popular  jealousy  either  in 
Nepal,  Tibet,  or  Bhutan;  and  the 
Dalai  and  Teshu  Lamas,  could  they  be 
got  at,  may  well  be  supposed  not  to  share 
the  unfriendly  sentiments  attributed  to 
them,  but  rather  to  be  ready  to  promote 
what  is  evidently  calculated  to  benefit 
the  people. 


202  NEGOTIATIONS  IN  BHUTAN.  [Oh.  XYHI. 

are  allowed  only  to  exchange  the  salt  and  wool  of  their  country  for 
the  rice  of  Bhutan.  Had  I,  therefore,  procofed  permission  for  mer- 
chants to  bring  their  goods  only  to  Binjipn  (Paro)  without  obtaining 
leaye  for  those  of  Tibet  to  come  and  trade  to  that  place,  the  Deb 
Bajah  and  his  officers — ^men  not  wealthy,  and  who  being  engaged  in 
the  affidrs  of  government  carry  on  their  commercial  concerns  but 
to  a  small  extent,  and  without  that  enterprising  spirit  which  mer- 
chants possess— would  in  feict  haye  been  the  only  purchasers,  and 
the  trade  would  haye  remained  on  much  the  same  footing  as  for- 
merly,  only  that  Einjipu  (Paro)  instead  of  Eangp^  wonld  have 
become  the  market  for  the  commodities  of  Bengal.  The  consumption 
of  Bengal  goods,  except  tobacco,  betel  nut,  and  other  bulky  articles, 
is  yery  small  in  the  Deb  Bajah's  dominions,  and  while  the  people 
remain  poor,  and  preserve  their  present  simple  manners,  will  pro- 
bably continue  so.  It  is  no  object  to  Bengal,  and  their  only  com- 
modities for  exportation  are  musk,  horses,  munjit,^  blankets,  and 
some  thin  twilled  cloths.  The  first  three  have  always  been  monopo- 
lized by  the  rulers  of  Bhutan,  and  they  would  reluctantly  part  with 
them ;  the  importation  of  the  last  ought  rather  to  be  discouraged. 

In  the  dread  which  the  administration  at  Tassisudon  was  then 
in  of  an  insurrection  in  &vour  of  Deb  Judhur,  supported  by  the 
administration  at  Lhasa,  I  could  not  have  applied  for  permission  for 
Tibetans  to  trade  freely  to  Binjipu  (Paro)  without  awakening  sus- 
picions of  treachery,  and  I  therefore  judged  it  best  to  refer  every- 
thing in  regard  to  the  merchants  of  Tibet  entirely  to  Teshu  Lama. 

After  many  tiresome  conferences  and  fruitless  negotiations,  in 
which  I  was  assisted  by  Teshu  Lama's  people,  I  at  length  obtained 
the  Deb  Bajah's  consent  to  allow  Hindu  and  Mussulman  merchants 
to  pass  through  Bhutan  under  some  restrictions  and  concessions, 
which  I  have  now  the  honour  to  submit  to  you,  together  with  the 
reasons  upon  which  they  are  grounded. 

I  transmitted  a  copy  of  those  articles  to  the  Lama  firom 
Tassisudon,  requesting  him  at  the  same  time  to  give  them  all 
advantages  with  the  government  at  Lhasa,  and  to  write  to  the 
Deb  Bajah  on  the  subject.  I  have  since  received  a  letter  from  him, 
written  in  answer  to  the  accounts  which  his  people  sent  him,  of  the 
difficulties  that  the  Deb  Bajah  started  to  my  proposals,  of  which  I 

*  Madder. 


Cb.  XVIU.]     TBADE  between  bengal  and  TIBET.  203 

beg  leaye  to  lay  before  yon  a  traDslation,  as  it  strongly  marks  the 
eameetness  and  zeal  with  which  the  Lama  interests  himself  in  the 
success  of  the  different  objects  of  my  commission. 

In  regard  to  procuring  permission  for  Europeans  to  trade  into 
Tibet,  it  was  a  point  which  I  have  ahready  mentioned  impossible  of 
obtaining.  In  former  times,  when  Europeans  were  settled  in  TTin* 
dustan  merely  as  merchants,  there  would  haye  been  no  difficulty  in 
establishing  factories  and  freedom  of  trade;  but  the  power  and 
eleyation  to'  which  the  English  have  now  risen  render  them  the 
objects  of  jealousy  to  all  their  neighbours.  The  opposition  which 
was  made  to  my  proceeding  into  Tibet,  as  well  as  the  many  diffi- 
culties I  had  to  encounter  in  the  execution  of  my  commission,  arose 
from  this  source.  The  government  at-  Lhasa  considered  me  as  sent 
to  explore  their  country,  which  the  ambition  of  the  English  might 
afterwards  prompt  them  to  inyade,  and  their  superiority  in  arms 
render  their  attempt  successful.^ 

I  was  at  much  pains  during  my  stay  among  the  inhabitants  of 
Bhutan  and  Tibet  to  remove  their  prejudices ;  but  I  am  convinced 
they  can  be  effectually  conquered  only  by  the  opportunities  which 
a  greater  intercourse  and  more  intimate  acquaintance  with  the 
English  may  afford  them  of  observing  their  fidelity  to  engage- 
ments, and  the  moderation  of  their  views,  and  by  an  interchange 
of  those  good  offices  which  serve  to  beget  confidence  between 
nations  as  well  as  between  individuab.'  The  increase  of  influence 
which  Teshu  Lama  will  derive  from  the  government  of  Tibet  being 
committed  to  the  Dalai  Lama,  and  other  circumstances  which  your 
connection  with  him  may  enable  you  to  improve,  will  perhaps  open 
the  way  to  a  privilege  which  at  present  I  could  not  obtain. 

I  will  now  beg  leave  to  submit  to  you  my  ideas  on  the  nature 
of  the  trade  between  Bengal  and  Tibet,  and  on  the  measures  which 
appear  most  likely  to  revive  and  extend  it. 

The  most  important  commodity  in  this  traffic  is  broadcloth ; 

^  Mr.  Hodgson  remarks  on  this  para-  *  On   this   Mr.  Hodgson  obsenres : 

graph :  ^*  Migiit  not  the  experience  of  "  The  worst  of  it  is  that  under  the  pre- 

the  long  period  that  has  since  elapsed  sent  system  no  room  is  afforded  for 

be  now  effeotoally  urged  the  other  way,  the  operation  of  any  snoh  interchange, 

at  Kathmandn,  Lhasa,  Teshn  Lnmlx\  and  sooner  or  later  stolid  indifference 

and  Tassisudon  ?    One  and  aU  owe  begets  spasmodic  violence  and  war." 
mnoh  to  onr  good  faith  and  peaceful 
policy." 


204  ENGOUBAGEMENT  OF  TRADE.  [Gh.  XYIH. 

all  the  Tibetans  of  a  station  elevated  above  the  populace  are  fond 
of  wearing  gowns  of  it^  and  it  fimtf  also  an  article  of  their  com- 
merce witii  the  neighbouring  tribes  of  Tatars.  The  sale  of 
broadcloth,  howeyer,  from  the  causes  which  I  have  already  men- 
tioned, has  greatly  decreased  of  late  years,  and  eyen  of  what  is  now 
consumed  a  large  portion  is  of  French  mannfetctnre.  I  had  occa- 
sion to  bny  seyeral  pieces  in  Tibet  to  giye  away  in  presents,  and, 
except  once,  I  neyer  could  meet  with  any  English  doth. 

The  article  of  next  importance  is  coral  beads ;  great  quantities 
of  these  are  used  in  Tibet,  and  from  thence  also  sent  into  Tatary. 
The  want  of  supplies,  and  the  consequent  enhancement  of  the  price, 
haye  affected  this  commodity  in  the  same  manner  as  the  former. 

I  will  not  here  particularize  the  different  kinds  of  merchandise 
which  haye  hitherto  been  exported  from  this  country  to  Tibet,  but 
beg  leaye  to  refer  you  to  the  accompanying  list,  in  which  I  haye 
put  down  the  prices  of  the  principal  articles,  together  with  the 
expense  of  transporting  them.^  I  must  obserye,  howeyer,  that  most 
of  them  were  not  to  be  had.  The  Bhutan  carayan,  on  its  return 
from  Bangpur,  would  no  doubt  carry  a  supply  of  goods  bcm, 
Bengal,  but  in  no  degree  equal  to  what  the  consumption  of  the 
country  used  formerly  to  take  off. 

But  besides  the  articles  hitherto  employed  in  the  trade  with 
Tibet,  there  appears  room  to  introduce  or  extend  the  sale  of  many 
new  ones.  The  inhabitants  are  fond  of  everything  that  comes 
frx)m  a  strange  country,  and  eyen  the  lowest  dass  of  people  possess 
a  curiosity  seldom  to  be  met  with.  This  promises  a  good  opening 
for  the  sale  of  cutlery,  glassware,  and  many  other  European 
manufactures. 

The  most  eligible  and  effectual  way  in  my  opinion  of  extending 
the  sale  of  British  broadcloth  in  opposition  to  that  of  France,  of 
increasing  the  sale  of  those  goods  which  haye  usually  been  ex- 
ported to  Tibet,  and  of  opening  a  mart  for  new  artides  of  com- 
merce, is  to  encourage  the  resort  of  Kashmiris,  Gosains,  Bhutanese, 
and  Tibetans  to  Calcutta  during  the  winter  time ;  ^  by  making  a  sale 

'  See  and  compare  the  liiits  and  re-  "  Even  so.    Let  the  trade  be  in  tbe  ac- 

marks   in   Mr.   Hodgson's   Report  of  customed  hands,  and  those  hands  be 

1831 ;  and  *  Languages,  &c.,  of  Nepal  rendered  more  effectually  operative  by 

and  Tibet,'  pp.  91-121.  tbe  co-operation  at  Calcutta  of  Engliah 

^  Mr.  Hodgson  remarks  upon  this :  merchants.'* 


Cfe.  XVIIIJ      SUGGESTED  NEGOTIATIONS  IN  NEPAL.  205 

of  English  broadcloth  at  that  season  they  will  be  enabled  to  procnre 
it  at  the  lowest  rate ;  and  by  granting  them  passports  and  escorts 
to  the  northern  frontier  of  Bengal,  they  will  be  engaged  to  purchase 
the  Company's  cloth  in  preference  to  any  other ;  while  the  yariety 
of  unknown  merchandise  which  they  will  here  find  will  naturally 
create  a  desire  of  carrying  them  with  them  on  their  return  to  their 
own  country. 

To  remoTe  the  dread  which  the  natiyes  of  Bhutan  and  Tibet 
entertain  of  this  climate  may,  no  doubt,  require  time  and  use.  But 
when  curiosity,  religion,  and  interest  conspire  to  prompt  them  to 
yisit  Bengal,  nothing  further  appears  necessary  but  the  encourage- 
ment and  protection  of  goTemment. 

The  Kashmiri  and  Qt)sain  merchants  who  propose  to  come  to 
Calcutta  during  the  next  winter  will,  when  furnished  with  Teshu 
Lama's  passports,  find  no  difficulty  in  travelling  through  Tibet ; 
and  the  Deb  Bajah,  from  the  assurances  he  has  giyen  me,  will,  I 
am  persuaded,  readily  grant  them  a  passage  through  his  kingdom 
from  Pari-jong  to  the  frontier  of  Bengal.  But  as  the  road  has 
neyer  yet  been  frequented  by  merchants,  it  may  be  necessary,  on 
their  arrival  on  the  borders  of  Bahar,  that  they  should  receive 
countenance  and  assistance,  and  that  orders  for  that  purpose  should 
be  issued. 

The  opening  of  the  road  through  Nepal,  and  obtaining  the 
abolition  of  the  duties  and  exactions  which  have  lately  been 
imposed  on  trade  in  that  country,  appears  an  object  of  great  impor- 
tance towards  establishing  a  free  communication  between  Bengal 
and  Tibet.  The  death  of  Prithi  Narayan,  the  late  Bajah  of  Nepal, 
seems  to  afibrd  a  fftvourable  opportunity  of  efilBcting  this  point. 
Teshu  Lama  is  ready  to  second  your  endeavours  for  that  purpose ; 
and  a  proper  management  of  the  different  interests  which  prevail 
among  the  chie&  ^  on  the  borders  of  Nepal  will,  I  am  convinced, 
easily  accomplish  it.  The  steps  which  it  may  be  proper  to  pursue 
it  becometh  not  me  to  point  out.  But  I  may  be  excused,  perhaps, 
in  suggesting  the  advantage  which  you  may  derive,  in  all  your 
negotiations  with  the  people  who  possess  the  mountains  to  the 
northward  of  Bengal,  by  taking  your  measures  jointly  with  Teshu 

>  AU  the  states  between  Sikkim  and  Kumaon  have  long  been  merged  in  the 
Gorkha  kingdom  of  Nepal. 


206  CONCLUSION.  [Ch.  XVm. 

Lama.  His  acqnaintanoe  with  the  state  of  those  countries  renders 
his  opinion  of  mnch  weight,  and  the  inflaence  which  his  holy 
character  giyes  him  among  the  different  chiefs,  heing  employed 
only  to  settle  disputes  and  promote  harmony,  may  enahle  yon  to 
accomplish  by  negotiation  and  peacefol  means  what  that  jealousy 
of  the  people  and  the  strength  of  their  situation  might  otherwise 
render  it  difficult  to  obtain. 

When  a  road  is  opened  through  Nepal  as  well  as  Bhutan 
nothing  further  appears  to  me  necessary  towards  accomplishing  the 
business  upon  which  I  haye  lately  been  employed.  In  matters  of 
commerce  I  himibly  apprehend  that  fireedom  and  security  is  all 
that  is  required.  Merchants,  left  to  themselyes,  naturally  discover 
the  most  proper  manner  of  conducting  their  trade,  and,  prompted 
by  self-interest,  carry  it  on  to  the  greatest  extent. 

The  disadvantages  to  which  the  novelty  of  my  journey  and  the 
jealousy  of  the  natives  ^  subjected  me  may,  perhaps,  entitle  me  to 
indulgence.  I  have  executed  my  commission  to  the  best  of  my 
abiUties,  and  I  now  wait  in  solicitude  for  the  judgment  which  may 
be  passed  upon  my  conduct. 

*  Mr.  Bogle,  here  and  elsewhere,  in  speaking  of  the  jealousy  of  the  natives, 
evidently  means  the  native  official$  only. 


Oh.  XIX.]  JOURNEY  OP  THE  LAMA  TO  PEKING.  207 


CHAPTER  XIX, 

JOURNEY  OP  THE  TESHU  LAMA  TO  PEKING,  AND  HIS  DEATH. 
TROJECT  OP  MR.  BOGLE  POR  MEETING  THE  LAMA  AT 
PEKING. 

(Memorandum^  written  m  /Wy,  1778.) 

The  amount  of  the  debts  of  the  Chinese  merchants  to  English 
individuals  is  from  a  million  and  a  half  to  two  millions  sterling. 
Among  the  creditors  are  Mr.  Bouchier,  Sir  Bobert  Harland^  Sir 
John  Lindsay,  and  most  of  the  gentlemen  who  have  gone  from 
Madras,  as  well  as  Mr.  Boddam  and  others  at  Bombay.  They  can 
get  no  redress :  have  no  channel  of  applying  for  it.  They  have 
sent  a  Mr.  Gordon  to  England  with  a  representation  to  endeayonr 
to  interest  the  Government,  and  perhaps  through  them  the  Court 
of  Bussia;  but  have  little  prospect  of  success,  or  at  best  distant. 
Besides  this,  the  Company's  business  is  often  harassed  and  op- 
pressed, and  its  conductors  are  entirely  without  any  channel  of 
communication  or  representation  to  the  Court  of  Peking. 

The  Emperor  of  China  is  now  seventy  years  of  age.^  He  is 
of  the  Tatar  religion,  of  which  the  Lamas  are  the  head.  The 
Ohangay  Lama,  who  is  older  than  him,  and  resides  at  Peking,  is 
said  to  have  much  influence  over  him.  He  has  expressed  a  great 
desire  to  see  Teehu  Lama  before  his  death,  and  has  at  length,  after 
repeated  applications,  prevailed  on  him  to  go  and  meet  him.  The 
Emperor  has  fixed  on  a  place  about  a  month  s  journey  on  this  side 
of  Peking,  and  Teshu  Lama  sets  out  about  two  months  hence  to 
travel  through  Tatary.  The  journey  will  take  up  about  eight 
months,  so  that  he  may  arrive  with  the  Emperor  about  May  next. 
He  will  stay  at  least  three  or  four  months ;  that  is  to  August.' 

^  This    was   the   famous   Emperor  Gosain,  accompanied  the  Teshu  Lama 

Kien-lung  who  sncoeeded  in  1736,  and  on   his    visit    to    China,    and    wrote 

reigned  until  1796.  (See  note  at  p.  134.)  an   account   of   it,    a    translation   of 

'  Mr.  Bogle's  old  friend,  Pnrungir  which  was  published  by  Mr.  A.  Dal- 


208 


DEATH  OF  THE  TE8HU  LAMA. 


[Ch.  XIX. 


When  I  was  in  Tibet,  the  Lama  promised  to  endeayonr  to  pro- 
onre  for  me  passports  to  go  to  Peking.  He  has  not  yet  sncoeeded, 
but  has  sent  a  man  to  assure  me  that  he  will  exert  himself  to 
procure  me  at  least  a  passport  by  the  way  of  Canton.  I  propose 
to  write  him  that  I  shall  prepare  myself  either  to  go  by  land  over 


rymple,  in  the  *  Oriental  Beperiory* 
(u.  p.  145).  After  severai  most  preaa- 
ing  inyitatioDB  from  the  old  Em- 
peror, the  Lama  at  length  resolved 
to  undertake  the  jonmey,  but  not  with- 
out sad  forebodings.  He  set  out  from 
Teshu  Lumbo  on  the  15th  of  July,  1779, 
attended  by  1500  troops  and  followers. 
After  forty-six  days  he  reached  Duohu, 
on  the  banks  of  a  river  of  the  same 
name.  After  twenty  days  more  he  came 
to  Thnk'thaung,  and  nineteen  days  more 
brought  him  to  Kumbu  Giemban,  a 
large  city,  where  he  remained  fonr 
montlis,  owing  to  the  snow.  He  then 
set  out  again,  and,  after  fifteen  days, 
came  to  the  city  of  Tumdautabe,  where 
he  was  met  by  Ghi-wang,  a  son-in-law 
of  the  Emperor.  Nine  days  more  were 
occupied  in  the  journey  to  Nissaur,  and 
two  days  more  brought  him  to  Taub^^n- 
kaikan,  and  sixteen  days  more  to  Ghau- 
raunsuburgan,  where  he  halted  two 
days.  Another  twelve  days  were  con- 
sumed in  reaching  Khaurambu,  and 
six  more  brought  the  Lama  to  Taigau- 
gumban,  where  he  was  met  by  the  £m- 
peror*B  first  son.  In  thirty-four  days 
more  they  arrived  at  Sining,  where  the 
Lama  was  met  by  another  son  of  the 
Emperor,  who  informed  him  that  the 
Emperor  himself  had  advanced  to  a 
country  seat  called  Jiawosekho,  about 
twenty-four  miles  from  Sining.  (See 
and  compare  the  stage  route  of  the 
Nepalese  Embassy  to  Peking,  in  No.  27, 
of  the  *  Selections  from  the  Records  of 
the  Government  of  India,'  p.  83.  Siling, 
or  Sining,  is  the  capital  of  Tangut,  or 
Sokyeul,  and  is  the  converging  point 
of  all  the  trade  routes.) 

During  the  whole  of  this  long  jour- 
ney sumptuous  provision  was  made  for 
the  Lama's  comfort,  and  crowds  of  de- 
votees thronged  to  receive  his  blessing. 


At  the  first  interview  the  Emperor 
met  the  Teshu  Lama  at  a  distance  of  at 
least  forty  paces  from  his  throne,  and 
seated  him  on  the  uppermost  cushion 
with  himself,  and  at  the  right  hand. 
When  the  Lama  withdrew,  he  was  con- 
ducted to  a  magnificent  palace,  about 
a  mile  from  that  of  the  Ehnpeior,  which 
had  been  specially  erected  for  his  abode. 

In  a  subsequent  intiTview  the  Lama 
mentioned  to  the  Emperor  that  there 
was  a  great  ruler  in  Hindustan,  on  the 
borders  of  his  country,  for  whom  he 
had  the  greatest  friendship ;  and  that 
he  wished  the  Emperor  to  know  and 
regard  him  also.  Purungir  G^osain 
was  then  called  in  and  interrogated. 
He  said  that  the  ruler's  name  waa 
Hastings,  and  described  the  ridies  and 
military  resources  of  India. 

After  some  time  the  Emperor  and 
Teshu-  Lama  set  out  for  Peking,  and 
the  Lama  was  lodged  in  a  very  magni- 
ficent  house  outside  the  walls  of  the 
city,  and  for  several  months  there  were 
constant  interchanges  of  visits  between 
the  Emperor  and  the  Lama  To  the 
inexpressible  grief  of  the  Emperor  and 
the  whole  people  of  China,  the  Lama 
was  seized  with  smallpox,  and  expired 
on  the  evening  of  November  12, 1780, 
aa  he  sat  at  prayer  between  two  large 
pillows,  resting  his  back  against  the 
waU.  His  death  was  remarkably  tran- 
quil. 

The  body  was  placed  in  a  coffin  of 
pure  gold,  in  the  form  of  a  temple  fixed 
on  poles,  and  the  Emperor  ordered  it  to 
be  conveyed  to  Tibet  in  charge  of  the 
Lama's  brother.  The  gold  temple  was 
placed  within  a  copper  temple.  The 
return  journey  occupied  seven  months 
and  eight  days  from  Peking  to  the 
mausoleum  at  Teshu  Lumbo. 

There  is  an  extract   from  another 


THE    TOMB    OF    THE    TESHU     LAMA. 


Ch.  XIX.]      MR.  BOGLE'S  PROPOSED  VISIT  TO  PEKING. 


209 


Tatary,  if  he  thinks  it  possible  to  procure  me  passports,  otherwise 
to  go  by  sea  to  Canton  in  the  fnU  confidence  of  his  sending  me 
some  person  from  himself  to  Canton  with  passports,  so  that  I 
might  get  to  Peking  while  the  Lama  is  with  the  Emperor.  I  pro- 
pose also  to  send  back  a  Gosain  who  is  in  great  &your  with  the 
Lama,  and  whom  he  has  sent  down  to  Calcutta  so  as  to  be  with 
him  before  he  sets  ont  from  Tibet;  and  that  this  man  who  is 
much  attached  to  me,  together  with  one  of  my  servants,  should 
accompany  the  Lama  to  China,  and  come  and  meet  me  at  Canton. 
The  Changay  Lama,  who  is  at  Peking,  is  a  native  of  Tibet,  and 
understands  that  language,  of  which  I  have  some  knowledge,  so  as 
not  to  be  at  the  mercy  of  interpreters. 

If  I  succeed  in  procuring  passports,  I  shall  then  be  in  a  situa- 
tion to  urge  any  points  at  the  Court  of  Peking  with  the  greatest 
advantage.  But  even  if  I  should  be  disappointed,  I  do  not  think  it 
is  possible  for  me  to  fail  in  procuring  a  channel  of  communication 
with  the  Court  of  Peking,'  and  in  finding  some  person  stationed  at 
Canton  through  whom  representations  can  be  made. 

In  order  to  pave  the  way,  it  is  necessary  that  some  presents 
should  be  got  ready  that  may  be  acceptable  at  Peking.  •  Large 
pearls,  large  coral,  some  best  birds'  nests,  some  Arabian  horses,  and 
some  muslins,  should  be  prepared.  Most  of  these  articles  are  the 
same  as  make  the  best  remittances  to  China,  so  that  in  case  of  the 
negotiation  fetiling  they  could  be  sold  there  without  any  loss.    But 


letter,  written  from  Peking  by  a  mis- 
sionary named  Amiot,  and  dated  Au- 
gnst  17,  1781.  He  says  that  the  Pan- 
tcban  Lama,  as  he  calls  the  Tesha 
Lama,  or  Panchen  Rimbooh^,  reached 
China  in  very  good  health,  after  a 
journey  of  extraordinary  length;  but 
that  on  arriving  at  Peking  he  was 
seized  with  the  smallpox  and  died. 
M.  Amiot  gives  a  translation  of  the 
remarkable  letter  written  by  the  Em- 
peror Kien  Lung,  then  in  his  seventieth 
year,  to  the  Dalai,  announcing  the  death 
of  the  Teshu  Lama.  "  Although  I  am 
well  aware,"  writes  the  Emperor,  **  that 
to  come  and  to  go  are  but  as  the  same 
thing  to  the  Pan-tchan  Lama,  yet  when 
I  reflect  that  he  made  a  most  long  and 


painful  journey  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
doing  honour  to  me,  and  that  after 
having  fulfilled  that  object  it  was  not 
his  fate  to  return  in  tranquillity,  as  I 
had  hoped,  to  the  place  of  his  usual 
abode,  thidi  reflection  is  distressing  to 
me  beyond  aU  expression."  ('  Oriental 
Repertory,'  ii.  p.  273.) 

^  Mr.  Hodgson  remarks  upon  this: 
^'What  has  since  been  done  there  as 
regards  the  seaboard  trade,  seems  to 
prove  that  quiet  persistent  explanation 
might  succeed  in  removing  the  existing 
obstacles  to  free  social  and  commercial 
intercourse  between  the  Cis  and  Trans 
Him&layans,  by  natives  and  such  of 
them  as  have  an  immemorial  prescrip- 
tive right  to  such  free  intercourse.'* 


210  MB.  BOGLE'S  PROPOSED  VISIT  TO  PEKING.      [Ch.  XIX. 

the  peisons  interested  in  the  reooyery  of  these  debts  are  so  numerous 
and  unconnected  that  it  is  difficult  to  get  them  to  oontribnte  towards 
this,  and  still  more  so  to  do  it  with  such  secrecy  as  to  prevent  the 
scheme  from  being  known,  which  would  put  the  people  at  Canton 
on  their  mettle  to  counteract  it. 


JOURNEY 


OF 


MR.  THOMAS  MANNING  TO  LHASA 


(1811-12). 


p  2 


JOURNEY 


OF 


MR.  THOMAS  MANNING  TO  LHASA 

(1811-12). 

l^I^e  foot-notes  with  the  initials  T.  M,  are  by  Mr,  Manning:  the  others  are  editorial.] 


CHAPTEB  I.     . 

JOURNEY  FROM  CANTALBARY  TO  PARI-JONO. 

I  ABBiYBD  at  Gantalbary^  on  Friday,  the  7th  of  September,  1811, 
and  at  Tazigong  on  Tuesday  following;  and  left  Tazigong  on 
Friday  morning,  on  what  I  cdl  the  14th.' 

Mr.  Boy  left  me  halfway  to  Cantalbary :  Balangham  soon  after. 
The  magistrate  sent  out  horses  and  mnsic,  and  I  had  a  strange  entry 
into  Cantalbary,  where  I  spent  a  good  deal  of  money.  All  left  me 
bat  one  Chaprasi.  Eight  miles  next  day.  The  Bhntanese  lord  it 
oyer  their  Hindu  subjects ;  and  eyen  my  slaye  was  imperious,  but 
it  might  be  because  I  trayelled  by  authority.  One  of  my  Bhutan 
friends,  according  to  promise,  came  and  met  me,  not  on  the  frontier, 
but  at  Bhitu  Bari,^  on  the  10th,  and  took  me  with  him  to  a  yillage 
on  a  hill  about  six  miles  from  the  mountains,  pleasantly  situated 
among  orange  and  lime  trees.  Thence,  next  day,  I  rode  to  a  torrent. 
The  horses,  they  said,  were  not  to  go  any  &rther ;  an  unexpected 
trouble.  The  Soubah  of  the  yillage  came  to  meet  me,  and  salam 
me  on  the  other  side.  I  walked  with  him  through  water  and 
oyer  cruel  stones  aboye  a  mile,  which  brought  me  to  a  wretched 

*  Or  Eathal-bari,  a  town  fonnerly  on  1811,  irere  on  a  Saturday,  not  a  Friday, 

the  ftontier  of  Bhutan,  63  mUes  north  He  must,  therefore,  have  reached  Tazl- 

of  Rangpiir.  gong  on  the  13th. 

'  The  7th  and  14th  of  September,  in  'I  cannot  find  this  place  on  any  map. 


214 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  PARO. 


[Ch.  I. 


pigsty  of  a  place,  and  they  said  I  was  to  stay  there  that  night.  It 
was  still  morning,  or  about  noon.  I  declared  I  woTald  not,  but  would 
go  on  to  Tazigong.  I  got  porters  for  my  things,  and  set  off,  I 
and  my  Chinaman^  and  my  guide,  on  foot.  The  road  passed  over 
the  bed  of  a  torrent  with  cruel  stones,  and  I  was  sometimes  up  to 
my  middle  in  water.  At  last  it  turned  out  by  acknowledgment 
to  be  eight  good  miles ;  seven  on  the  plain,  and  one  up  the  hill. 
I  was  tired  when  I  arriyed  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  it  was  steep 
and  stony,  and  my  feet  were  sore ;  but  we  could  not  stop  more  than 
half  an  hour.  I  toiled  up  slowly,  and  with  considerable  difficulty, 
When  I  got  to  the  top,  my  servant  had  palpitation,  sweated  pro- 
fusely, eruption  broke  out,  and  next  day  he  said  his  skin  peeled 
away.  I  told  him  it  would  do  him  good,  and  prevent  fever.  Next 
day  I  bargained  for  people  to  carry  us  in  our  chairs. 

10th  Sept.,  we  reached  Tazigong.^  I  saw  but  one  house :  stayed 
two  days.  Here  the  Ghaprasi  left  me.  On  the  15th  I  reached 
Dune,^  and  was  lodged  at  the  upper  end  of  a  large  long  room.  On 
the  16th,  after  passing  over  a  swinging  bridge,  I  came  to  Enji,  and 
was  lodged  in  a  large  three-storied  house.  On  the  17th  and  18th 
I  was  at  Dumgong,*  in  a  very  large  solid  built  house,  which  seemed 
to  be  a  sort  of  receptacle  for  merchandise  and  travellers.  There 
was  a  chapel  in  it,  with  images.  ' 

On  the  19th  I  reached  Matakah.  I  came  in  thoroughly  wet, 
and  dried  my  clothes  on  my  body.  Afterwards,  upon  walking 
across  the  room,  I  was  seized  with  a  violent  palpitation.  The  insects 
disturbed  me  all  night.  I  saw  a  lad  gnawing  a  turnip,  and  called  to 
him  immediately,  and,  showing  it  to  my  conductor,  asked  the  name, 
and  told  him  to  give  me  plenty  of  it.  I  thus  got  an  excellently 
well-dressed  stew  with  turnips. 

Leaving  Matakah  on  the  20th,  we  walked  up  a  'mountain,  and 


*  A  Chinese  servant  whom  Mr.  Man- 
ning brought  from  Canton.  After- 
wards he  nsnally  calls  the  Chinaman 
'*  Munsbi."  He  was  detained  at  Lhasa 
when  Mr.  Manning  was  sent  back. 

*  Mr.  Manning  appears  to  have  en- 
tered Bhutan  by  the  Laki  Dilar  or  Tazi- 
gong, and  to  have  gone  direct  to  Pare. 
This  is  a  route  never  taken  by  any  Eu- 
ropean before  or  since,  being  to  the  west- 


ward of  that  travelled  over  by  Bogle  and 
Turner.  It  follows  the  courses  of  the 
rivers  Tursa  and  Dun-chu,  and  then 
crosses  a  ridge  to  Paro.  For  details  of 
this  route  see  *  MacGregor/  p.  19, 

'  Dnna  or  Dunarjong,  in  the  vaUey  of 
the  Dun-chu. 

*  Dumgong  and  Enji  are  not  on  the 
maps. 


Ch.  I.] 


PARO. 


215 


slept  upon  it,  there  being  no  village  or  house.  Wet,  wet ;  always 
rain. 

On  the  21st,  we  ascended  still  higher ;  and  after  a  fearfolly  long 
walk  np  the  steep,  descended  down  to  Wharai — a  toilsome  day's 
worL  I  find  going  np  hill  does  not  agree  with  me,  perhaps  because 
naturally  I  am  going  down  hill.  Wet  above,  wet  below;  hard 
stones  all  the  way. 

At  Paro-jong  I  was  lodged  in  a  guardhouse,  with  no  window, 
and  much  smoke.  I  was  not  permitted  to  go  out,  nor  to  visit  the 
bazaar  close  by. 

In  riding  over  the  lofty  bridge  into  Faro,^  if  the  horse  curvets, 
it  must  go  slap  down  thirty  feet  into  the  rocky,  stony  stream ;  but 
that  danger  is  imaginary.  I  could  not  persuade  them  to  give  me 
any  fish. 

On  the  evening  of  October  16  1  left  Paro,  having  been  hurried 
to  write  six  letters  in  six  minutes,  though  the  servants  afterwards 
were  not  ready  for  three  hours. 

At  night  I  found  that  my  Chinese  servant  had  changed  our 
silver  spoons  into  pewter.  I  told  him  I  would  not  go  on  till  I  got 
my  spoons.  Now  the  Ghaprasi  I  am  in  charge  of  is  a  partner  in 
iniquity.  He  could  procure  the  spoons  in  an  instant,  for  we  had 
only  gone  four  miles.  But  no,  he  thought  to  persuade  me  to  go 
on,  and  said  the  spoons  would  come  after.  I  was  obstinate.  On 
the  17th,  ten  o'clock,  twelve  o'clock,  and  nobody  went  back  to  Paro. 
At  last  my  slave  went,  and  returned  with  one  silver  and  one  pewter 
again.  I  swore  I  would  have  the  other,  or  go  back  myself  and 
speak  to  the  magistrate.  This  frightened  my  rascal :  he  sent  the 
slave  again,  and  he  brought  back  the  other.  It  was  not  the  value, 
but  the  example.  I  am  in  bad,  bad  hands.  The  Dewan  kindly 
sent  yesterday  the  Chinaman  and  a  lama  (who  came  a  child  from 
China  by  chance  of  war,  and  had  almost  forgotten  his  tongue)  to 


*  The  bridge  at  Paro  is  a  handsome 
stractnre,  made  of  large  pine  beams 
built  into  either  bank,  and  projected 
one  over  the  other  till  a  sufficiently 
narrow  space  is  obtained  to  admit  of  a 
platform.  The  entranoee  to  the  bridge 
are  paved  with  large  slabs  of  stone,  and 
at  each  end  is  a  large,  strongly-built 


stone  tower,  in  which  a  guard  remains 
at  night,  under  the  warder  of  the  bridge. 
The  bridge  is  very  neatly  boarded  with 
deal  planks.  The  gates  are  lined  with 
iron  plates  and  studded  with  nails.  The 
road  from  the  bridge  to  the  fort  is 
paved  throughout.    C  Eden,'  p.  89.) 


216  AT  PARI-JONG.  [Ch.  I. 

see  how  we  were^  and  whether  everything  was  right.    This  was  a 
great  relief  to  ns,  and  I  sent  a  civil  message  back. 

18th.  This  morning  I  went  to  salani  the  petty  magistrate  of  the 
place,  and  gave  him  a  rupee  and  a  looking-glass.  He  was  vastly 
civil  We  are  now  come  on  about  six  miles.  The  Chinaman  is  as 
cross  as  the  devil,  and  will  not  speak.  We  are  lodged  in  a  loft,  open 
shed-like,  but  a  snuggish  place  to  sleep  in.  Snow-&ll  in  sight. 
Charming  weather.  Strange  sensation  coming  along:  warm  and 
comfortable.  Horse  walking  in  a  lane  between  two  stone  walls. 
The  snow !  Where  am  I  ?  How  can  I  be  come  here  ?  Not  a 
soul  to  speak  to.  I  wept  almost  through  excess  of  sensation,  not 
from  grief.  A  spaniel  would  be  better  company  than  my  Chinese 
servant.    Plenty  of  priests  and  monks  like  those  in  Europe. 

19th.  I  found  out  at  night  why  my  servant  was  cross.  He  fell 
off  his  horse,  and  thought  I  took  no  notice  of  it.  I  did  not  see  it. 
I  visited  a  priest,  and  he  is  to  pray  for  my  welfare,  going  and 
coming.  I  cannot  persuade  them  to  let  me  taste  the  fish,  though 
I  offer  money. 

20th.  Uphill.  In  a  deserted  house  at  night :  could  not  sleep 
for  the  insects  and  rats.    Good-for-nothing  horse. 

21st.  We  arrived  at  Pari-jong.  Frost  Frost  also  two  days 
before.    I  was  lodged  in  a  strange  place,  but  so  are  the  natives. 

23rd.  I  went  to  visit  the  religious  resident  at  Pari-jong.  I  sold 
cloth,  but  they  cannot  reckon.  They  cheated  me  of  two  paranies, 
even  if  at  their  own  prices.  All  cheats.  A  woman  spoke  Chinese, 
and  interpreted  for  us.  On  2l8t,  the  two  magistrates  came  to 
look  at  us,  and  ask  questions.  I  took  them  for  idle  fellows  (by 
mistake),  and  paid  no  respect  to  them. 

24th.  I  visited  the  magistrate,  and  took  his  pipe-boy  for  a  girl. 
He  asked  a  good  many  questions,  and  was  very  civil.  He  gave  me 
a  sheep  and  rice,  and  he  invited  us  to  come  again  after  three  or 
four  days,  and  stay  longer. 

27th.  We  were  obliged  to  quit  our  room  to  make  way  for  Chinese 
soldiers  who  are  expected.  The  new  room  had  dirty  floors,  and  was 
rather  cold.  We  cook  for  ourselves.  Dirt,  dirt,  grease,  smoke. 
Misery,  but  good  mutton.  The  Chinaman  was  cross  again.  Note. 
Says  I,  "  Was  that  a  bird  at  the  magistrate's  that  flapped  so  loud  ?'' 
— Ans,  "  What  signifies  whether  it  was  a  bird  or  not  ?"   Where  he 


Ch.  I.]  ARRIVAL  OF  A  CHINESE  MANDARIN.  217 

sat,  I  thought  he  might  see ;  and  I  was  curious  to  know  if  such 
large  birds  frequented  the  building.^  These  are  the  answers  I  get. 
He  is  always  discontented  and  grumbling,  and  takes  no  trouble  off 
my  hands.  Being  younger  and,  like  all  Asiatics,  able  to  stoop  and 
crouch  without  pain  or  difficulty,  he  might  assist  me  in  many  things 
without  trouble  to  himself.  A  younger  brother,  or  any  English 
young  gentleman,  would  in  his  place  of  course  lay  the  cloth,  and 
do  other  little  sendees  when  I  am  tired;  but  he  does  not  seem 
to  have  much  of  the  generous  about  him,  nor  does  he  in  any  way 
serve  me,  or  behave  to  me  with  any  show  of  affection  or  goodwill : 
consequently  I  grow  no  more  attached  to  him  than  the  first  day 
I  saw  him.  I  conld  not  have  thought  it  possible  for  me  to  have 
lived  so  long  with  anyone  without  either  disliking  him,  or  caring 
sixpence  for  him.  He  has  good  qualities,  too.  The  strangeness  of 
his  situation  may  partly  excuse  him.  (I  am  more  attached  to  my 
guide,  with  all  his  faults,  who  has  been  with  me  but  a  few  days.) 
My  guide  has  behaved  so  damnably  ill  since  I  wrote  that,  that 
I  wish  it  had  not  come  into  my  mind. 

29th.  The  Chinaman  shaved  with  a  razor  shaped  like  a  sickle, 
the  edge  being  where  a  sickle's  back  is. 

30th.  The  Chinese  mandarin's  interpreter  arrived. 

31st.  The  mandarin  arrived.  One  of  his  soldiers,  who  is  also 
his  cook,  visited  us.  He  asked  me  if  I  was  a  Mussulman.  I 
answer,  "  No,  I  eat  pork,"  which  I  believe  was  not  interpreted  to 
him.  Chinese  poUteness,  even  in  the  common  soldiers,  forms  a 
great  contrast  with  the  barbarians  of  this  place. 

Nov.  1st.  My  Chinese  servant  visited  the  mandarin  ;  and  after- 
wards I  paid  him  a  visit.  Some  of  his  people  said  I  could  not  sit 
down  before  him.  In  that  case  I  should  not  have  gone.  He  was 
very  civil,  and  promised  to  write  immediately  to  the  Lhasa  mandarin 
for  permission  for  me  to  proceed.  I  gave  him  two  bottles  of  cherry 
brandy,  and  a  wine-glass.  He  asked  me  to  dinner  with  my  China- 
man, who  excused  me.  The  Chinese  lord  it  here  like  the  English  in 
India.  The  Tibetans  stand  before  them.  I  was  applied  to  as  a 
physician,  to  cure  soldiers. 

*  The  building  is  immensely  large,      Pari-jong ;  indeed,  most  of  it  consists  of 
six  or  more  stories  high ;  a  sort  of  for-      miserable  galleries  and  holes. — ^T.  M. 
tress.  At  a  distance  it  appears  to  be  all 


218  ALLOWED  TO  PROCEED  TO  LHASA.  [Oh.  I. 

2nd.  The  soldiers  described  their  Gomplaints,  but  concealed 
their  origin,  supposi&g,  perhaps,  that  I,  as  a  physician,  can  find 
that  out.    True,  by  dint  of  questions.* 

3rd.  Things  are  much  pleasanter  now  the  Chinese  are  here. 
The  magistrate  hints  at  overtures  respecting  opening  a  commercial 
intercourse  between  the  Chinese  and  English  through  Bhutan. 
I  cannot  help  exclaiming,  in  my  mind  (as  I  often  do),  what  fools 
the  Company  are  to  give  me  no  commission,  no  authority,  no 
instructions.  What  use  are  their  embassies  when  their  ambas- 
sador cannot  speak  to  a  soul,  and  can  only  make  ordinary  phrases 
pass  through  a  stupid  interpreter  ?  No  finesse,  no  tournure,  no 
compliments.  Fools,  fools,  fools,  to  neglect  an  opportunity  they 
may  neyer  have  again !  ^ 

4th.  My  medicines  do  wonderfully  well,  and  the  patients  are 
very  grateful.  They  have  petitioned  for  me  to  go  with  the  man- 
darin to-morrow  towards  Giansu,  and  not  to  have  the  misery  of 
staying  here  for  an  answer  from  Lhasa.  The  secretary  and  others 
have  also  asked  for  us,  and  the  mandarin  has  consented.  Some  of 
our  things  are  gone  to-day.  We  go  to-morrow.  This  is  very  plea- 
sant. I  hear  of  several  patients  in  Giansu  already.  Tout  miettx, 
though  it  is  a  great  trouble.  The  magistrate  of  the  place  has 
neglected  lately  to  supply  us  with  provisions,  but  the  Chinese  send 
us  plenty  of  excellent  vegetables. 

*  Mr.  Manning  then  details  his  treat-  port  by  the  Goyemment  of  L[idia,  le- 
ment  for  each  patient.  oommending  him  to  the  good  offices  of 

*  One  would  gather  from  this  that  the  antboritles,  without  other  official 
Mr.  Manning  was  given  a  simple  pass-  recognition. 


Oh.  IL]  leave  PAEI-JONG.     INTENSE  COLD.  219 


CHAPTER  II. 

FROM  PARI-JONG  TO  GIANSU. 

We  left  Pari-jong  early  in  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  November. 
I  expected  to  haye  set  out  after  breakfast ;  but  we  were  called  up 
before  four  in  the  morning,  as  they  wanted  our  things  and  our 
beds.  Bitter  frost.  The  wine,  or  rather  beer,  I  had  ordered  over 
night  arrived  just  as  we  were  setting  off.  There  was  no  wine  to 
drink,  as  it  must  be  heated  first.  Before  dayUght  I  heard  the  gun 
go  off:  the  signal  that  the  General  had  left  the  place.  I  went 
down  to  the  street,  and  found  the  head  Tibetan  interpreter  and 
his  second  waiting  for  us.  We  mounted  at  dawn  of  day,  and 
scampered  over  the  plain.  Snow  all  round  on  the  mountains— a 
strange  sight.  Sharp  frost.  About  three  miles  off  we  passed  the 
mandarin's  flag.  He  had  stopped  there  to  settle  some  cause  and 
take  refreshment.  Soon  after  he  overtook  us.  I  salamed  him  as 
he  passed,  and  we  went  on  in  company.  We  came  to  a  tomb  of 
stones  with  stakes  at  top,  adorned  with  hundreds  of  bits  of  cloth. 
A  raven  sat  crouching  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  stakes.  The 
mandarin  alighted  and  prostrated  himself  to  the  ground,  as  did 
some  of  the  soldiers,  others  not — we  not.  It  is  the  tomb  of  a 
holy  man.  They  call  it  Piisa.  I  was  surprised  to  find  the  ice  so 
strong.  The  sides  of  running  brooks  would  bear  our  horses  well ; 
but  this  was  only  the  first  or  second  day;  afterwards,  the  land 
lying  lower,  the  frost  waa  much  less  severe.  After  riding  about 
25  miles  we  found  two  tents  pitched;  one  for  the  General  and 
one  for  me.  Here  we  had  boiled  mutton.  I  went  up  to  the 
General,  and  thanked  him  for  his  kindness  in  permitting  me  to  go 
on  vdth  him,  and  stayed  about  twenty  minutes;  then  on  again. 
Soon  afterwards  the  sun  became  obscured,  and  a  terrible  cut- 
ting wind  blew  upon  us.  I  was  not  sufficiently  clothed  against 
this.  I  had  a  thick  heavy  cloak  on,  which  one  of  the  soldiers 
had  lent  me.     The  aide-de-camp  had  also  lent  me  a  sheepskin 


220  A  NIGHT  SCENE.    BAD  HORSE^EAB.  [Gh.  U, 

nnder-cloak^  which  I  thought  too  much,  and  had  packed  up  with 
my  things.  I  was  so  braised  and  bit  and  cnt  by  this  wind, 
that  when  we  came  to  onr  resting  place  I  was  in  a  slight  fever. 
I  lolled  on  the  cushions  before  a  good  fire,  but  could  not  recover 
thoroughly  till  next  day.  At  night,  ten  or  fifteen  of  the  in- 
habitants of  the  village  settled  themselves  in  the  dirt  around 
our  fire,  and  the  scholar  of  the  place  made  out  their  shares  of 
expense  for  provisions  for  the  General  and  his  party,  including  us. 
It  was  a  curious  scene.  A  shoe-shaped  pan,  with  a  bit  of  cotton 
lighted  in  the  bottom,  and  two  or  three  lumps  of  tallow  laid  over, 
was  the  lamp.  The  clerk  held  the  paper  in  one  hand  and  the  pen 
in  the  other.  One  man  flared  the  light  as  dose  to  him  as  he 
could,  sloping  it,  and  shoving  in  the  tallow  with  his  finger  as  the 
light  grew  dim.  Another  put  the  inkstand  in  his  way  when  he 
looked  about  for  a  dip.  They  were  eager  and  noisy.  Afterwards 
they  introduced  the  dice,  using  their  hands  for  a  box,  and  gambled 
for  their  shares  and  perhaps  for  money.  Afterwards  they  con- 
tinued gambling  till  late  in  the  evening.  I  saw  the  hayta  (wedy 
peety),  a  strange  appearance  in  the  air,  strongly  resembling  the 
flight  of  innumerable  birds.  It  i6  the  conflict  between  the  extreme 
cold  and  burning  heat  of  the  sun.  It  deceived  me  at  first,  and 
my  servant  afterwards.  I  frequently  saw  the  same  appearance 
afterwards,  but  never  so  strong.  There  are  very  few  birds  in 
Tibet.  I  heard  now  and  then  the  weety-peety  cry  of  a  few  small 
birds  among  the  stones  and  rocks,  and  on  the  waters  were  flocks 
of  wild  ducks  (very  tame)  and  other  wild  fowl,  but  not  more  than 
may  be  seen  on  all  lakes,  meres,  and  broads.^ 

The  next  day  I  was  still  a  little  unwell,  and  they  told  us  that 
the  cold  and  wind  would  still  be  severe ;  which  proved  untrue,  as  it 
was  pleasant  the  whole  day,  except  when  the  passage  between  the 
mountains  became  narrow,  and  then  it  was  uncomfortably  hot. 
They  gave  me  a  vicious  horse.  While  lengthening  the  stirrup  he 
kicked,  and  bit  at  me.  Now  I  must  observe,  once  for  all,  that  the 
common  horse  furniture  in  these  regions  is  detestable.  ShriveUed 
bits  of  leather,  full  of  knots,  for  the  stirrup  leather ;  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  untie  them,  and  when  done  will  not  take  a  new  bend. 
Again,  if  one  can  be  altered,  it  is  a  great  chance  if  the  other  side 

^  A  Norfolk  word,  ahowmg  where  Air.  Manning  hailed  from. 


Ch.  II.]  A  BUNA  WAY  HOBSE.  221 

admits  of  it ;  and  as  for  making  the  two  sides  equal  lengths,  it  is  a 
great  chance  if  after  half  an  hour  it  can  be  effected.  Consequently, 
setting  off  at  daylight  in  a  hurry,  among  Tibetan  servants,  whose 
language  I  did  not  understand,  and  in  the  bitter  cold,  I  generally 
went  with  one  leg  long  and  one  short.  The  bridle  was  often  so 
short  that  I  could  barely  reach  it ;  and  I  managed  to  hold  by  the 
leading  rein,  which  always  accompanies  the  bridle  in  these  parts. 
Often  the  bridle  broke  in  the  middle  of  the  road ;  sometimes  the 
stirrup  leather ;  sometimes  the  saddle,  high  behind  and  before,  was 
so  short  that  I  sat  in  pain,  unless  I  twisted  myself  unequally. 
After  walking  the  horse  ten  miles — our  pace  was  generally  a  walk, 
and  upon  the  ayerage  we  did  not  go  three  miles  an  hour,  conse- 
quently, although  our  journeys  were  12, 14,  20,  and,  at  the  most, 
30  miles  per  day,  we  were  from  many  dawns  till  evenings'  dose  on 
our  horses — my  knees  ached  so  much  in  consequence  of  the  short 
stirrups,  that  I  was  forced  to  ride  side-saddle  fashion. 

These  and  other  petty  inconveniences  I  shall  in  future  pass  over ; 
they  would  be  as  little  entertaining  to  the  reader  as  they  were  to  me. 
But  to  return  to  my  vicious  horse?  He  happened  to  have  remark- 
ably bad  furniture.  In  lengthening  the  stirrups  they  made  them -so 
long  that  I  could  scarcely  reach  them  with  my  toes.  I  mounted  him 
vnthout  his  playing  any  tricks,  and  thought  myself  secure ;  but 
whether  it  was  the  unusual  length  of  legs  he  felt  at  his  belly,  and 
the  unusual  mode  of  riding  that  made  him  impatient,  or  whether  it 
wna  his  natural  temper  alone,  I  do  not  know :  he  grew  headstrong, 
and  would  not  keep  his  place,  but  pressed  forward.  He  fatigued 
me  very  much.  A  soldier  offered  to  change  with  me,  but  I  thought 
he  would  be  a  good  goer  after  he  had  had  a  little  run.  I  put  him 
ahead,  and  gave  him  two  or  three  notices  with  my  heels  that  he 
might  go  his  own  pace.  He  changed  his  form  instantly ;  set  his 
head  and  ears,  and  at  once  -sprang  forward  in  a  fall  runaway 
gallop,  with  the  most  furious  and  awkward  motion  I  ever  ex- 
perienced. I  could  not  have  imagined  he  had  ever  been  so  fleet. 
The  bridle  was  of  little  use.  I  pulled  and  sawed  at  it  as  hard  as  I 
dared ;  I  could  easily  have  broken  it.  I  expected  every  minute  my 
stirrup  leather  would  break,  though  I  pressed  as  lightly  as  I  could; 
but  what  was  worse,  the  road,  which  at  first  was  tolerable,  grew 
worse  and  worse,  and  I  saw  we  were  coming  to  the  fearful  bog  we 


222  THE  CALOOHU  LAKE.  [Oe.  II. 

had  passed  the  day  before,  which  was  full  of  concealed  holes, 
frozen  knobs  of  earth,  flakes  of  ice,  and  had  proved  troublesome  to 
walk  our  horses  over.  I  reckoned  upon  a  serious  fall,  but  I  believe 
he  had  had  enough.  A  man  driving  cattle  stood  still,  in  his  waj, 
upon  my  clamorously  invoking  his  assistance,  and  my  horse  made 
that  a  pretence  for  Jailing  into  a  trot.  I  turned  his  head  towards 
my  companions,  who  were  now  nearly  a  mile  off.  When  they  came 
up  they  insisted  on  my  changing,  which  I  refused,  until  I  saw  they 
were  a  Uttle  angry,  upon  which  I  dismounted  and  exchanged  for  a 
quiet  creature,  who  was  as  willing  to  keep  behind  as  the  other  was 
to  run  ahead.  What  with  the  violence  of  the  exercise,  the  weight 
of  .my  clothes,  and  the  remains  of  my  fever,  I  felt  myself  a  good 
deal  agitated ;  by  degrees  I  recovered,  and  felt  no  ill  consequences 
after  it. 

This  day  we  approached  the  edge  of  a  lake  or  sea,  and  here 
a  cushion  was  spread  for  the  General,  and  another  for  me,  and 
tea  was  served.  I  had  eaten  but  little,  and  had  preserved  some 
bits  of  cold  meat  in  my  wooden  cup,  which  I  drew  out  of  my 
bosom  and  ate,  and  it  now  proved  very  acceptable  to  my  stomach. 
The  lake^  was  frozen;  at  least  that  part  we  were  next,  and  would 
certainly  have  borne  me.  My  skates  were  not  many  miles 
off,  but  I  was  not  well  enough  to  regret  the  losing  this  oppor- 
tunity of  showing  my  skill.  We  stopped  but  a  few  minutes 
and  proceeded  on  to  where  the  lake  becomes  a  river,  in  a  narrow 
pass  between  the  brown,  dry  mountains;  here  it  waa  open  in 
the  middle,  and  running  briskly.  There  were  many  jBbae,  fet 
wild  ducks  on  it,  which  were  very  tame,  and  let  us  come  close 
to  them.  The  people  of  Tibet  never  disturb  them:  they  eat 
no  birds,  but,  on  the  contrary,  let  the  birds  eat  them.  The 
sun  here  was  burning  hot.  There  were  a  few  miserable-looking 
houses  scattered  about,  looking  like  ruins  of  villages,  as  the  Tibet 
houses  often  do,  and  a  few  patches  of  arable  land.  We  passed 
on  through  the  defile  to  a  large  village,  where  we  two  were  shown 
into  a  strange  cavern  of  a  house,  and  told  it  was  our  lodging.  It 
was  low,  long,  dark,  narrow,  black,  windowless,  and  full  of  smoke. 
I  sat  sometime  on  the  wall  beside  the  house,  breathing  the  pure 
air  and  enjoying  the  sunshine,  before  I  ventured  to  explore  it.    At 

*  This  is  the  Calochu  of  Mr.  Bogle.    (See  p.  73.) 


Cb.  n.]  A  SMOKY  LODGING.  223 

last  I  crept  in,  and  when  I  arrived  at  the  fisuiher  end  fotind 
cushions  and  a  good  fire,  and  the  good  woman  of  the  honse  pre- 
paring the  pot.  Though  it  seemed  at  first  so  narrow,  it  was 
in  fact  a  wide,  large  room,  supported  hy  pillars,  leaving  an  alley  in 
the  middle,  and  against  the  pillars  were  a  great  many  packages, 
which  concealed  the  sides,  and  left  nothing  visible  but  the  alley, 
which  I  took  at  first  for  the  whole,  room.  There  seemed  to  be 
several  families  belonging  to  it,  and  at  night  several  women  and  girls 
came  in,  who  undressed  themselves  in  the  sides,  and  spread  their 
beds,  long  after  I  was  laid  down  and  quiet.  I  now  and  then  took 
an  impertinent  peep,  but  the  smoke  was  so  thick  and  the  Ught  so 
bad,  that  I  could  discern  nothing.  Every  time  they  opened  the 
door  there  came  a  stream  of  cold  air  upon  me,  which  prevented  my 
sleeping,  and  they  were  not  all  retired  till  very  late.  Gettmg  up 
and  going  to  the  door  I  found  two  guards  lying  before  it,  in  the 
open  air,  seemingly  very  comfortable  and  composed.  I  have  often 
seen  this  since,  and  learned  that  it  is  by  no  means  a  miserable 
situation.  A  European  is  not  at  first  aware  of  the  thickness  of 
their  clothing  and  covering.  He  figures  to  himself  a  miserable 
man  in  the  streets  or  fields  in  England,  on  a  bitter,  sharp  frosty 
night  in  January,  and  shudders. 

This  night,  as  well  as  many  others,  I  slept  in  my  clothes.  It 
was  a  great  trouble  to  me  to  undo  my  bedding,  which  was  but  ill 
contrived;  and  to  get  up  in  the  morning  before  daylight,  and 
arrange  it  again,  and  cord  it,  in  a  place  where  I  had  scarcely  room 
to  stir,  and  where  the  smoke  was  so  thick  that  the  slightest  exertion 
made  me  breathe  quick  and  almost  suffocated  me,  and  where  all 
was  dirt  and  dust,  was  painful  even  to  think  of,  so  I  often  lay  in 
my  clothes,  as  I  had  done  many,  many  nighta  at  Pari-jong. 

The  next  day  the  valley  opened  a  little.  A  stream  flowed  in  the 
middle.  There  were  stumps  of  herbs  and  brown  grass,  but  still 
not  a  single  tree  or  shrub  to  be  seen.  I  saw  deer  feeding  at  a 
distance.  We  made  a  very  short  stage,  and  put  up  at  a  sort  of 
caravanserai  which  seemed  to  be  destined  to  receive  the  mandarins  and 
other  public  officers.  Our  room  was  a  little  sort  of  balcony  open  in 
the  side  towards  the  south.  A  cloth  was  stretched  against  the  open 
side,  which  moderated  the  cold  in  the  night.  Here  a  sheep  was 
killed,  to  be  carried  along  for  next  day's  provisions,  as  the  place  we 


224  HOT  SPRINGS.  [Ch.  II. 

were  to  lodge  at  was  miserably  podr;  and  Sid  in  the  morning 
brought  me  a  cup  of  stewed  lights,  in  order  to  ingratiate  himself, 
for  he  wanted  to  become  onr  servant,  and  to  go  with  ns  to  Lhasa, 
which  he  afterwards  did. 

We  continued  along  the  barren  valley,  seeing  no  diversity,  but 
the  ever-varying  shapes  of  the  still  more  barren  mountains,  whose 
colour,  where  it  was  not  actually  sand,  slate,  or  granite,  was  a  melan- 
choly pale  mouldy  green,  produced  no  doubt  by  the  scaly  covering  of 
dried  stems  and  withered  herbage,  xmtil  we  came  to  two  or  three 
houses,  one  of  which  was  an  edifice  raised  from  the  ground,  and  the 
others  were  sunk  into  the  ground,  having  their  roofs  level  with  the 
top  of  the  slight  eminence  in  which  they  were  sunk.  The  mandarin 
lodged  in  the  house;  we,  in  one  of  these  cellars,  which  I  found 
snug  and  warm  enougL  A  pot  of  young  growing  onions  at  one 
comer  of  the  room  was  the  greenest  thing  I  had  seen  for  a  long 
time.  We  had  the  room  to  ourselves.  The  corporal  came  to  see 
us,  as  he  always  did,  and  asked  us  if  we  wanted  anything,  and  sat 
and  chatted  for  a  few  minutes. 

The  next  morning  the  Qeneral  did  not  rise  so  early  as  usual. 
The  sun  was  up  and  lively  before  we  mounted  our  horses.  Lounging 
about,  waiting  for  the  Qeneral,  I  was  very  near  walking  against  a 
great  dog  that  lay  curled  up,  and  which  I  took  for  a  sack,  until 
somebody  called  to  me  and  bid  me  beware.  My  horse  was  so  weak, 
BO  tottering,  and  so  stumbling,  and  trembled  so  whenever  he  set 
his  foot  on  a  stone,  which  was  about  every  other  step,  that  I 
could  hardly  keep  up  vnth  the  company.  With  great  care  I  got 
him  on  gently  tluree  or  four  miles ;  after  which  both  he  and  the  road 
improved.  We  passed  some  hot  springs ;  ^  one  of  which  the  soldia:s 
called  me  to  look  at.  I  saw  the  steaming  water,  but  had  no  time 
to  examine  it.  I  asked  whether  it  was  medicinal.  They  said  it  was 
famous.  We  then  passed  a  strange  strait  between  the  mountains, 
where  the  water  seemed  to  flow  uphill.  We  went  upon  masses  of 
stones  for  a  long  way ;  afterwards  the  road  opened  into  a  little  area, 
fiUed  with  religious  piles  of  white  stones,  and  with  a  sort  of  open 
temple  in  it,  where  was  carved  a  strange  gigantic  figure.'  From 
this  we  descended  down  to  the  river,  which  was  now  considerable, 
and  my  eyes  were  refreshed  with  the  sight  of  a  few  trees,  and  some 

»  See  p.  181 ;  and  Turner,  p.  220.  *  See  Turner,  p.  222. 


Oh.  IL]  discomforts  OF  TRAVELLING.  225 

slight  appearance  of  caltiyaidon.  We  forded  the  river,  and  trotted 
np  to  a  pleasant  snnshiny  yillage,  where  the  people  were  bustling 
about,  and  where  we  were  to  lodge.  The  Munshi  and  I  were  shown 
into  a  little  apartment  on  the  first  floor,  which  opened  upon  a  spa- 
cious flat  roof  or  terrace,  defended  by  a  parapet  wall  I  was  now 
so  eaten  up  byUttle  insects,  which  I  shall  not  name,  that  I  was 
compelled  to  set  aside  shame,  and  sitting  down  on  a  terrace  but- 
tress in  the  sunshine,  dismiss  as  many  of  my  retinue  as  I  could 
get  sight  of.  Shame  prevented  me  at  Pari-jong  from  performing 
the  operation  otherwise  than  partially  and  by  stealth,  for  there  I 
was  scarcely  ever  alone  for  a  single  minute ;  and  shame  still  more 
strongly  prevented  me,  on  the  road,  in  the  houses  where  we  lodged, 
before  curious  strangers,  men,  won^en,  and  children  around  me.  I 
BufiGared  a  good  deal  from  these  little  insects,  whose  society  I  was 
not  used  to.  I  shall  say  no  more  of  them  than  that  I  did  not  get 
thoroughly  rid  of  them  until  some  time  after  my  arrival  at  Lhasa. 


ABRIYAL  AT  GIAK6U.  [Gh.  HI' 


CHAPTER  m. 

RESIDENCE  AT  GIANSU. 

Thb  next  morning  we  were  off  early,  though  we  had  but  a  short 
stage  to  Oiansu.  I  had  a  very  pleasant-going  horse  with  a  hand- 
some oonntenanoe.  I  was  tempted  to  bn j  him,  but  was  checked  by 
the  prudent  consideration  that  he  might  encumber  me  at  Lhasa^ 
and  too  much  disencumber  my  lean  pnrsa  Half-way  towards 
Qiansn  we  were  met  by  the  snb-mandarin  and  the  Tibetan  man- 
darin, with  their  retinues,  come  out  to  meet  and  honour  the 
(General  and  give  him  a  meat  breakfieugt.  From  his  table  the 
soldiers  brought  us  two  or  three  yery  palatable  viands,  which  we 
did  justice  to.  Our  room  was  one  extremity  of  a  stable,  parted  off 
for  us  by  a  doth,  in  the  Asiatic  manner.  The  word  stable  might 
suggest  for  a  moment  the  idea  that  we  were  treated  with  indignity, 
but  not  so.  The  house  was  filled  with  official  people;  we  being  but 
an  appendix  to  the  General,  could  not  dine  witii  them.  Not  to 
separate  me  from  the  rest,  consisting  of  servants  and  soldiers,  would 
really  have  been  treating  me  with  indignity ;  besides,  our  luggage 
required  a  separate  room ;  but  to  settle  the  matter  at  once,  there 
really  was  not  any  room  in  the  house  better  than  this  same  corner 
of  a  stable.  It  was  the  freest  from  dirt  and  the  smoothest  paved 
I  had  seen  for  some  time.  There  were  good  cushions  with  the 
little  table  before  them  to  hold  pans  of  parched  flour;  and 
though  we  heard  the  horses  kick  at  the  other  end,  we  did  not 
see  tiiem,  except  when  curious  impertinents  lifted  up  the  doth. 
After  diimer  we  all  rode  gallantly  forth  towards  Giansu,  where  we 
soon  arrived.  Upon  approaching  the  town  we  met  several  China- 
men, and  my  companions  underwent  the  troublesome  ceremony  ci 
dismounting  and  exchanging  salutations  with  them.  My  M unshi 
admitted  that  this  Chinese  custom  was  one  that  might  be  advan- 
tageously dispensed  with. 

Oiansu  is  a  large  town,  half  situated  on  a  hill  and  half  at  the 


Oh.  IU.]  CHINESE  APPEARANOE  OF  GIANSU.  297 

foot  It  makes  a  good  appearanoe  until  yon  are  close  upon  it^  when 
the  handsome  white  stone  houses  are  converted  into  dirty  white 
walk,  and  the  windows  into  belfiry  holes.  There  is  an  abundance  of 
water  flowing  about  it,  which  they  do  not  seem  to  know  how  to  keep 
off  the  road.  There  is  not  a  blade  of  anything  green  to  be  seen; 
but  there  are  cornfields  around  and  a  few  trees,  and  in  summer 
time  I  should  judge  it  to  have  a  gay  appearance.  like  every  place  I 
have  seen  in  Tibet,  it  appears  a  little  area  surrounded  by  mountains 
without  any  visible  outlet.  These  mountains,  both  at  Oiansu  and 
other  places,  are  many  of  them  absolutely  barren  from  foot  to 
summit,  as  is  the  greater  part  of  the  vaUey  between  them.  At  the 
time  I  saw  them  they  had  so  entirely  lost  their  green  livery  as  to 
present  the  same  dismal  prospect  as  their  neighbours. 

We  went  to  the  area  before  the  mandarin's  house  and  tribunal,  to 
inquire  where  we  were  to  lodge.  Here  I  was  struck  with  the  appear- 
ance of  everything  being  perfectly  Chinese.  The  same  neatness,  the 
same  folding  doors  and  paved  yard,  the  same  figures  of  mandarins 
in  ancient  dresses  smugly  painted  on  the  folding  doors,  the  same 
Chinese  characters  pasted  up,  the  same  style  of  building,  and,  in 
short,  an  exact  conformity  to  the  Chinese  models. 

While  standing  here  there  came  up  a  man  in  a  turban,  who 
addressed  me  in  Hindustani.  I  thought  it  better  to  seem  to  know 
almost  nothing  of  that  language.  Indeed,  I  had  not  occasion  to 
feign  much,  for  though  I  know  its  construction,  and  can  hammer 
out  a  few  phrases  in  it,  and  when  speaking  with  a  native  of  Hin- 
dustan above  the  common  class,  and  who  is  perfect  master  of  it,  can 
manage  to  hold  a  little  conversation ;  yet  I  do  not  pretend  to  know 
the  luiguage,  and  when  asked  if  I  can  speak  it,  I  always  answer. 
No.  From  those  who  spoke  to  him  in  broken  Tibetan,  and  ex- 
plained to  us  in  Chinese,  I  learned  that  he  was  from  Kashmir, 
which  I  also  heard  him  say  in  Hindustani. 

The  General  appointed  us  a  Uttle  lodge  in  the  courtyard  of  the 
principal  house.  Here  again  I  seemed  to  be  in  China.  We  took 
possession  of  our  apartment,  which  was  clean  and  papered,  with  a 
papered  window,  and  door  opening  to  the  south.  Whatever  we 
reqtdred  was  soon  supplied  us  by  the  Chinese  soldiers  who  had  been 
under  my  Munshi,  and  1^  others  who  meant  to  apply  to  me.  One 
1>rought  rice,  one  brought  meat,  another  brought  us  a  table,  another 

Q  2 


228  CLOTHING  FOR  COLD  WEATHER.  [Ch.  HL 

brought  a  littld  paste  and  paper  and  mended  a  hole  in  the  window, 
another  brought  ns  a  present  of  a  pen  and  candles.  There  were 
many  inquiries.  Every  Chinaman  in  the  town  came  to  see  ns  and 
salute  us.  Two  tomb-like  brickwork  structures  against  the  wall, 
with  good  thick  cushions  on  them,  were  the  places  to  lay  our  beds 
on,  and  here  I  slept  much  more  comfortably  than  I  had  done  for 
a  long  time ;  while  the  cold  was  much  less.  The  level  of  Giansu 
is  much  lower  than  that  of  Pari-jong,  and  lower  than  that  of  any 
place  between.  The  rivxdet  flows  the  whole  way  towards  Giansu 
with  considerable  rapidity. 

I  had  suffered  so  much  from  smoke,  my  breath  was  so  affected 
by  it,  and  my  hands  and  face  were  so  stained  by  it,  that  Idetermined 
to  live  without  a  fire.  We  scarcely  believe  in  England  that  it  is 
possible  to  be  comfortable  in  sharp  frosty  weather  without  a  fire, 
but  it  is  very  possible  and  very  practicable :  there  only  needs  good 
warm  clothing  firom  head  to  foot ;  for  how  is  it  that  we  are  comfort- 
able in  bed  in  cold  weather?  A  Chinaman's  or  Tibetan's  cold- 
weather  clothing  may  be  considered  as  a  moving  bed ;  but  what 
makes  it  more  easy  in  Tibet  than  it  would  be  in  England  is  the 
extreme  dryness  of  the  air,  and  the  fervent  sunshine,  which  streams 
forth  all  day  from  a  cloudless  sky.  This  mode  of  clothing  and 
being  without  a  fire  is  inconvenient  in  some  respects.^  If  the 
hands  be  employed  in  writing  or  otherwise,  they  become  pinched 
with  cold ;  everything  they  touch  feels  like  ice.  In  taking  exerc^ 
the  body  becomes  too  hot,  and  particularly  the  feet;  many,  I 
beUeve,  on  this  account  use  too  scanty  clothing  for  their  feet.  These 
partial  heats  and  colds  occasion  frequent  rheumatic  fevers.  Again, 
the  Chinaman,  with  his  smug  shaved  head,  has  his  ears  and  part  of 
his  head  entirely  exposed,  for  of  course  he  wears  the  same  shaped 
cap  here  as  in  China ;  he  can  no  more  change  his  clothing  to  adapt 
himself  to  Tibet  than  an  Englishman  can  to  adapt  himself  to  India.' 

'  The  rich  have  oooaaionaUy  a  large      the  abBurdity  of  the  English  dzeas,  by 
pan  of  oharcoal  set  in  the  room.   There      gravely  obserring  how  lobky  it 


is  no  wood  in  the  oonntry,  consequently  the  Rnssians  had  no  settlemeat  Hiere, 

the  oharooal,  which  is  brought  from  a  for  their  for  dresses  would  be  an  in- 

distance,  is  very  dear. — T.  M.  tolerable  nuisance  to  them.    The  per- 

'  Generally  speaking,  a  Chinaman's  Bons  to  whom  I  addressed  it  oonld  not 

dress  is  much  better  adapted  to  variety  say,  "  Oh,  they  would  leave  them  off^'* 

of  climate  than  a  European's.    When  because  they  would  be  aware  that  I 

in  India  I  used  frequently  to  rally  should  say,  *'No  more  than  yon  your 


CH.m.] 


PREJUDICES  BESPEOTINa  DRESS. 


229 


This  exposure  of  the  ears  and  head  to  the  cold  wind  is  also,  I  beUeye, 
the  cause  of  rheumatic  pains  and  toothache. 

We  went  out  to   present  ourselyes  to  the  General,  who  was 
yastly  ciyil  and  polite.    He  invited  us  to  dinner  for  the  next  day. 


neokoloth.*'  The  warmth  and  thick- 
nesB  of  a  Earopean's  oloth  ooafc  is  not 
ao  great  an  evil,  though  evil  enough 
in  a  hot  cUmate,  as  the  tightness  of  his 
clothing,  which  occasions  throhbing, 
and  a  stifling  sensation  of  heat  and 
sweat,  and  probably  may  be  very  in- 
jnrions  to  the  health.  He  will  deny,  I 
know  by  experience,  that  his  clothes 
are  inconvenient,  bat  his  natnral  effiirts 
to  relieve  himself  l)etray  the  contrary. 
When  he  comes  home  in  the  evening, 
though  he  be  not  going  to  bed  for  an 
hour  or  two,  does  not  he  take  off  his 
neckcloth  and  unbutton  his  breeches^ 
knees,  with  a  pleasing,  inarticulate 
expression,  denoting  that  he  is  some- 
what relieved — that  his  blood  has  room 
to  circulate.  As  I  myself  have  used 
both  kinds  of  dothing,  the  European 
and  the  Chinese,  In  hot  climates,  I  can 
with  confidence  assert  that  the  dif- 
ference in  comfort,  particularly  while 
sitting  still,  is  very  great  indeed,  and 
in  favour  of  the  Chinese  dress.  And 
the  same  is  true  in  very  cold  weather ; 
but  in  taking  exercise  in  moderate 
weather  or  in  cold  weather  there  is  an 
advantage  on  the  side  of  the  European 
dress. 

Women  in  Europe,  if  there  be  a 
bush  or  branch  in  the  way,  or  other 
mere  nothing  of  an  impediment,  or  if 
anyone  stamps  on  their  robe,  or  only 
the  foot  of  a  chair,  betray  a  slight 
uneasiness,  and  often  give  vent  to  some 
expression  of  discontent.  I  have  often, 
when  dressed  in  long  slight  robes, 
caught  myself  in  a  similar  state  of 
mind,  and  using  similar  actions  and 
expression,  and  have  observed  to  my 
companions  that  now  I  understood 
thoroughly  what  the  evil  was  that 
women  often  seem  to  make  so  much  of 
and  men  make  so  slight  of.  This  is 
one  of  the   inconveniences   of  loose 


robes  that  descend  to  the  feet.  It 
seems  to  me  not  refining  too  far  to 
say  that  this  habitual  fear  of  entangle- 
ment, and  the  fiEu^ility  with  which  the 
dress  can  be  laid  hold  of,  tend  to  take 
off  from  a  man's  boldness. 

To  invent  a  new  drees  is  a  matter  of 
great  difficulty:  to  alter  a  national 
dress  is  perhaps  a  still  greater  dif- 
ficulty. The  inconvenience  which  a 
European  suffers  from  his  dress  in  India 
he  attributes  to  the  cUmate;  or  if  he 
does  allow  that  a  cloth  coat  is  hot,  yet 
he  says,  *'for  gentlemen  to  meet  in 
society  without  cloth  coats  would  be 
highly  improper;  that  custom  cannot 
be  changed."  He  adds,  '*  The  natives 
would  not  respect  us  in  any  other 
dress;"  as  if  it  was  the  cut  of  a 
European's  coat  that  held  the  natives 
in  subjection,  and  not  the  Europeans. 

The  natives  respect  the  Europeans, 
in  spite  of  their  dress,  for  their  vigour 
of  body  and  mind.  I  am  persuaded  they 
would  honour  them  more  if  their  dress 
was  less  monstrous ;  as  it  is,  no  doubt 
respect  and  fear  are  associated  with 
that  dress ;  they  would  soon  be  associ- 
ated with  any  other  the  Europeans 
chose  to  adopt.  The  mUitaiy  gentle- 
men I  have  conversed  with  in  India 
seem  still  more  certain  of  the  abso- 
lute necessity  of  wearing  tight  oloth 
uniforms.  They  reject  with  scorn 
and  contempt  the  idea  of  making  any 
change,  and  consider  the  men  that  pro- 
pose a  change  as  very  ignorant  of  the 
duties  of  a  soldier.  The  slender-limbed 
sepoy  cannot  sit  down  without  un- 
buttoning his  pantaloons.  If  he  wants 
to  pick  up  anything  off  the  ground  he 
is  obliged  to  convey  it  to  his  hand  with 
his  foot ;  he  cannot  stoop  for  it  as  the 
other  natives  do ;  yet  he,  too,  is  proud  of 
his  dress,  and  would  not  willingly 
change  it  I  suppose.— T.  M. 


230  GIYILITIES  FBOH  THS  MANDARIN.  [Ch.  IU. 

and  recommended  me  what  clothes  to  purchase.  He  advised  me  to 
adopt  the  Chinese  dress  completely.  Nothing  indeed  was  wanting 
now  bat  to  put  on  my  Chinese  boots  which  I  brought  from  Canton, 
and  purchase  a  Chinese  hat. 

Next  day,  according  to  appointment,  we  dined  with  the 
Cteneral.  The  sub-mandarin  was  invited  to  meet  us.  I  soon 
found  out  that  the  General  was  no  better  than  an  old  woman ; 
and  it  was  not  long  before  my  Munshi  adopted  the  same  opinion. 
I  called  him  8ai-po-ti,  a  title  which  my  Munshi  afterwards  always 
used  when  speaking  of  him ;  but  he  was  very  much  of  a  gentle- 
man, and  very  civil  and  polite  to  me.  He  was  of  a  good 
Szechuen  fiimily,  and  by  the  mother's  side  a  Tatar.  The  sub- 
mandarin  I  perceived  to  be  rather  vulgar  and  awkward,  but  he 
seemed  a  well-disposed  man,  and  I  thought  him  sensible.  I  after- 
wards learnt  that  he  had  risen  from  the  ranks  entirely  by  his 
merit.  The  General  gave  us  a  tolerably  good  dinner,  but  his 
cookery  was  but  indifferent.     I  thought  his  wine  excellent. 

He  was  greatly  taken  with  my  beard,  and  seemed  as  if  he  never 
could  sufficieutly  admire  it.  He  adverted  to  it  both  then  and  after- 
wards on  other  occasions.  He  named  such  and  such  a  mandarin, 
such  a  one  he  thought  had  better  moustaches ;  in  fact,  I  had  kept 
mine  cut  short;  in  India,  for  convenience  of  eating  soup  and  drink, 
and  they  were  not  yet  full  grown.  Afterwards,  when  I  had  combed 
my  beard  and  adjusted  it  properly,  and  he  saw  its  tapering  shape 
descending  in  one  undivided  lock,  he  again  expressed  his  admiration, 
and  declared  he  never  had  seen  one  nearly  so  handsome.  The 
General  likewise  approved  of  my  countenance  and  manner;  he 
pretended  to  skill  in  physiognomy  and  fortune-telling.  He  foretold 
very  great  things  of  me.  He  also  foretold  good  things  of  my 
Munshi,  but  said  he  was  rather  hard  and  unacconunodating. 
Whether  he  saw  it  in  his  face  or  in  his  actions,  or  knew  it  by  what 
was  told  of  him  by  the  soldiers,  I  cannot  tell ;  he  certainly  hit  the 
mark. 

The  sub-mandarin,  learning  I  was  fond  of  flour  victuals,  for 
I  had  eaten  so  little  of  that  food  since  I  left  Bangpur  that  I  had 
quite  a  craving  for  it,  politely  invited  me  to  a  pastry  breakfast 
He  called  it  a  slight  pastry  breakfast ;  but  besides  flour-made  viands 
in  meat  gravy,  there  were  excellent  little  sausage  dumplings^  and 


Ch.  UL]  visit  to  a  TIBETAN  MANDAHIN.  SS81 

other  preparations  of  meat,  and  good  wine.  The  oooldng  was 
better  than  at  the  General's ;  in  short,  I  thought  this  breakfietst 
yery  much  to  the  purpose.  I  made  him  a  present  of  a  little 
cherry  brandy,  and  he  afterwards  made  me  a  present  of  a  few 
oandles. 

I  went  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  Tibet  mandarin,  who  lived 
in  a  sort  of  castle  on  the  top  of  a  hill.  The  Mnnshi^  would  not 
go  with  me ;  the  reason  he  gave  was  -because  there  were  no 
horses  sent  for  us.  The  distance  was  about  a  mile  I  I  belieye  it 
was  that,  as  a  Chinese,  he  b^;an  now  to  think  himself  a  man  of 
consequence ;  in  fiust,  he  began  to  display  his  pride  and  act  ^th 
a  haughty  demeanour  towards  the  Tibet  people,  which  afterwards 
became  doubly  conspicuous,  and  obliged  me  to  counterbalance 
it  by  being  over  civil  The  mandarin  was  evidently  puzzled  how 
to  return  my  visit,  as  he  could  not  visit  me  without  visiting  the 
Munshi.  It  was  ill  behaviour  in  the  Munshi  not  to  go  with  me, 
as  he  was  professedly  my  interpreter ;  but  I  liked  much  better  to  go 
without  him,  as  I  could  speak  more  freely ;  for  if  he  was  present, 
every  question  I  put  or  observation  I  made  must  pass  through  him, 
and  if  his  mMime  crossness  did  not  approve  the  question  or  obser- 
vation, it  was  with  some  peevish  word  or  gesticulation  either  refdsed 
to  be  passed  or  else  garbled  into  another  thing.  I  had  a  Chinaman 
with  me  who  spoke  Tibetan.  He  was  one  of  my  patients  and  a  good- 
natured  fellow.  I  was  ushered  into  a  very  large  lofty  room,  with 
an  immense  window  to  the  south,  full  of  papers  and  records,  and 
scribes.  The  mandarin  after  a  few  minutes  came  in,  and  tea 
was  brought  We  sat  together  on  cushions,  and  discussed  Calcutta 
and  Tibet,  for  about  half  an  hour,  when  I  took  my  leava  He  inti- 
mated  that  he  would  call  on  me  the  next  day,  and  would  send  me 
some  eatables.  I  had  made  him  a  trifling  present  He  sent  some 
rice  and  a  useful  piece  of  cloth,  but  did  not  come  himsel£  Another 
mandarin  came  in  his  stead  (inferior,  I  believe),  and  made  some 
apology ;  I  forget  what 

I  had  great  success  with  my  medicines.  I  had  so  many 
patients  now,  both  indoors  and  outdoors,  that  my  time  was  fully 
occupied.    My  outdoor  patients  gave  me  the  advantage  of  having 

*  This  18  the  Ohinaman  who  oame  with  Mr.  Manning  from  Ganton ;  elaewhere 
Galled  his  Ghinfloe  flenrant 


2S2  MB.  HANKING  AS  A  PHYSICIAN.  [Gh.  UL 

to  take  daily  exercise  (either  the  patient  or  one  of  his  Mends 
always  sent  me  a  horse  and  guide),  and  of  seeing  the  internal 
economy  of  their  houses.  I  attended  one  Chinaman  who  was  very 
ill  of  a  continued  fever  he  had  had  for  several  days.  I  gave  him 
antimony.  Whether  it  was  the  antimony  or  whether  it  was  that 
his  fever  was  come  to  a  crisis  I  know  not ;  but  after  two  days  his 
head  was  clear,  his  fever  gone,  and  he  was  so  persuaded  it  was  the 
effect  of  my  medicines,  that  when  I  saw  him  again  he  went  down 
on  his  knees  to  me  and  bowed  his  head  to  the  ground,  in  thankful- 
ness. Another  Chinaman,  very  poor  and  living  in  a  miserable 
manner,  had  an  intermittent  fever,  as  had  also  his  wife.  I  cured 
both  of  them  clearly  and  satisfactorily.  I  gave  them  opium, 
Fowler's  solution  of  arsenic,  and  afterwards  left  th^m  a  few  papers 
of  bark.  The  mother-in-law  also,  who  had  the  complaint  of  old 
age,  I  cheered  up  with  a  little  comforting  physic;  and  she  considered 
herself  under  great  obligations  to  me.  With  various  other  patients  I 
had  more  or  less  success.  There  were  some  of  the  old  rheumatic  com- 
plaints that  baffled  my  skill,  and  would  not  yield  to  the  physician 
of  a  few  days.  The  water  at  Qiansu  is  extremely  bad,  except 
what  is  fetched  from  a  considerable  distance.  I  advised  all  my 
patients,  as  well  as  others,  not  to  sparea  few  pence  or  shillings,  but 
always  to  send  for  the  good  water.  I  was  persuaded  that  the  ordi- 
nary water  drank  day  after  day  gave  them  pains  and  swellings. 
They  were  of  the  same  opinion  too ;  it  was  the  general  belief  of  the 
place ;  but  the  facility  with  which  the  water  was  come  at,  and  the 
apparent  innocence  of  a  cup  of  tea  made  with  it,  beguiled  them ; 
and  I  am  afraid  my  admonition  has  had  but  little  effect.  I  several 
times  meditated  putting  on  my  skates,  but  the  want  of  a  large 
sheet  of  ice,  the  trouble  of  going  out  to  seek  a  place  that  would  at 
all  suit  my  purpose,  and  my  incessant  occupation  in  seeing  patients 
and  making  up  pills,  prevented  me  from  carrying  my  wishes 
into  effect. 

I  now  made  a  present  of  a  small  rouleau  of  silver  to  the  secre- 
tary, and  another  to  the  sergeant  or  aide-de-camp.  They  accepted 
here  what  they  refused  at  Pari-jong,  but  I  believe  would  not  have 
been  discontented  if  I  had  given  them  nothing.  Upon  examining 
my  luggage,  which  had  stood  unmolested  two  or  three  days,  I  had 
the  misery  to  find  all  my  clothes  and  parcels  converted  into  solid 


Gh.  ni.]  THE  GENERAL'S  ABVIGE.  233 

lumps  of  ice.  This  was  owing  to  the  carelessness  of  the  box 
driyers,  who,  in  passing  the  river,  had  neglected  to  heaye  up  the 
baskets,  and  had  suffered  their  bottoms  to  trail  in  the  water. 
Nothing  had  escaped  except  my  Mnnshi's  box.  I  had  in  Bhutan 
giyen  away  some  of  my  boxes  as  they  became  empty,  and  had 
exchanged  all  the  rest  for  light  wicker  baskets,  which  are  more 
conyenient  for  the  porters.  I  had  not  reseryed  one  box  for  myself, 
but  had  allowed  my  Munshi  to  retain  his,  which  was  an  excellent 
large  Calcutta  trunk,  Ught  and  water-tight,  and  contained  all  his 
things.^ 

I  had  ^reat  trouble  in  thawing  and  drying  my  things ;  many 

The  General  often  came  to  see  me ;  for  like  many  other  generals 
he  had  nothing  to  do,  and  was  glad  of  a  morning  lounge.  I  used 
to  receive  him  in  my  sunshiny  courtyard,  rather  than  in  my  room, 
which  was  somewhat  littered.  There  he  sat  with  me  and  smoked  a 
pipe  or  two,  and  chatted.  We  sat  in  my  two  chairs,  and  the  rest 
(the  soldier  and  attendants)  stood  the  while.  Upon  seeing  my 
linen  hung  out  drying,  he  mightily  wondered  why  I  had  brought 
so  much  light  clothing.  He  called  it  much,  though  in  &ct  it  was 
very,  little ;  six  or  eight  grass-cloth  gowns  and  two  gauze  gowns, 
and  a  few  light  drawers,  were  all  that  could  be  deemed  useless  in 
Tibet  at  that  season ;  for  shirts  I  still  wore,  though  perhaps  he  was 
not  aware  of  that,  and  took  my  eight  or  ten  Madras  longcloth 
shirts,  which  were  flapping  on  the  lines,  for  so  many  light  summer 
jackets.  He  advised  me  by  all  means  to  leave  these  things  at 
Giansu,  and  not  encumber  myself  with  them  to  Lhasa.  But  this 
was  idle  advice,  even  if  I  had  meditated  going  no  £Eurther  than  to 
Lhasa  and  speedily  returning  again ;  for  though  they  seemed  to 
occupy  much  space  when  spread  out  drying,  when  folded  up  they 
really  made  altogether  but  a  very  small  parcel,  and  added  nothing  to 
the  apparent  quantity  of  my  luggage.  He  repeated  this  advice  on 
other  days,  but  I  seemed  not  much  to  hear  what  he  said,  and  turned 
it  off  as  well  as  I  could ;  and  lucky  it  was  that  I  did,  as  afterwards, 
at  Lhasa,  when  no  money  came  to  me  from  Bangpur,  it  was  by  the 

*  It  waB  also  very  convenient  (with      never  offered  it  to  me  for  that  purpoee. 
the  help  of  a  chair,  Ac.)  for  him  to      — T.  M, 
spread  his  bed  upon,  and  sleep  on.    He 


284  A  NEW  SEBYANT.  [Gb.  IH. 

sale  of  these  and  other  things  that  I  managed  to  keep  my  pot 
boiling. 

I  had  now  another  CShinese  servant.  1  had  asked  the  Grenend  at 
Pari-jong  to  allow  me  to  have  one,  and  I  belieye  he  immediately 
made  up  his  mind  what  man  to  allot  me,  though  he  pretended  he 
wonld  consider  and  look  out  He  could  not  keep  the  secret  so  dose 
but  that  I  had  many  intimations  what  his  intentions  were.  There 
was  a  fidlow  with  him  in  the  capacity  of  cook  or  cook's  helper,  who 
had  fixed  himself,  I  know  not  how,  upon  the  General  at  Lhasa,  and 
followed  him  to  Gianso.  He  gave  the  man  no  wages,  I  understood, 
but  suffered  him  to  ]ire  with  him,  and  now  he  was  very  glad  to  get 
rid  of  him,  and  pay  him  out  of  my  pocket.  The  fellow  was  a  noto- 
rious scamp,  and  two  dollars  per  month  would  have  been  very  hand- 
some wages  for  me  to  give ;  for  as  to  the  pretence  that  he  was  an 
excellent  cook,  it  was  nothing  to  the  purpose,  as,  in  the  first  jdaoe, 
I  did  not  want  a  servant  in  such  an  exalted  capacity ;  and  in  the 
second  place,  the  fellow  in  fiict  knew  nothing  at  all  about  cooking* 
It  was  intimated  to  me  one  morning,  that  the  General  had  fixed  <m 
a  servant  for  me,  and  if  I  would  step  over  to  his  house  he  would 
send  for  the  man,  that  I  might  see  if  he  suited  me.  So  I  found 
I  was  to  go  through  the  £urce  of  pretending  not  to  know  who  it  was ; 
of  saying,  *'  Ob,  that  is  the  man,  is  it,  General  ?  And  what  does  he 
ask  for  wages  ?"  There  certainly  was  some  obligation  the  Creneral 
v^as  under  to  this  fellow  which  induced  him  to  ask  me  six  dollars  per 
month  for  him.  I  hesitated,  and  expressed  my  surprise  at  the  man's 
asking  so  much,  saying  that  it  was  more  than  my  slender  means  could 
afford  (the  General  knew  that  I  was  very  bare  of  money  at  present, 
and  that  I  hoped  for  a  remittance  from  Bangpur).  I  offered 
two  dollars.  The  General  said  that  was  too  littla  We  spUt  the 
difference,  and  settled  it  at  four  dollars.  I  acquiesced  with  good 
humour,  as  I  saw  the  (General  had  made  up  hia  mind  and  had  his 
reasons.  I  told  my  Munshi  that  it  was  a  great  deal  too  much ;  but 
whatever  the  General  had  determined  I  should  have  given  without 
discomposure.  The  General  further  stipulated  that  he  should  have 
two  months'  pay  in  advance ;  to  which  I  also  agreed  with  alacrity. 
My  Munshi  would  not  allow  that  it  was  high  wages  for  the  man, 
though  high  for  our  pockets.  He  thought  him  an  excellent  cook, 
and  was  not  undeceived  for  a  long  time.     There  was  a  good  body 


Oh.  m.]  DINNER  WITH  A  PATIENT.  285 

of  a  Tibetan  woman  in  our  kitchen  at  GiamrUy  who  was  aoonstomed 
to  Chinese  cookery,  and  she  and  he  together  certainly  made  very 
palatable  dishes ;  bnt  as  soon  as  we  left  Gianso,  I  found  out  that  our 
&mous  cook  did  not  understand  even  the  elements  of  his  profession.  I 
communicated  my  discovery  to  Munshi,  but  finding  he  took  it  crossly, 
and  was  inclined  to  quarrel  about  it,  I  dropped  the  subject  and  never 
said  another  word  about  it  until  we  parted  with  the  fellow ;  even 
when  my  Munshi  had  found  it  out  for  himself,  which  seemed 
to  be  soon  after  we  arrived  at  Lhasa,  and  was  partly  occasioned,  I 
believe,  by  excellent  dishes  we  ate  at  a  mias,  where  comedies  were 
acting,  and  none  of  which  our  great  cook  could  imitate.  Even  then, 
when  Munshi  strongly  expressed  his  dissatis£Eu^tion  with  him,  I  made 
no  observation,  except  simply  and  coolly  agreeing,  with  a  yawn,  that 
he  knew  nothing, about  cookery.  I  had  nothing  new  to  say  upon 
the  subject.  This  fellow,  good  for  nothing  as  he  was,  made  himself 
useful.  He  had  a  full  share  of  impudence,  and  claimed  things,  too, 
on  the  road  which  a  more  modest  man  would  have  let  go  by.  In 
drying  and  folding  up  my  linen  he  saved  me  infinite  trouble.  The 
Chinese  are  all  expert  at  little  domestic  offices :  folding  up  clothes, 
pasting  up  a  hole  in  the  paper,  making  up  parcels,  driving  a  nail 
where  it  is  wanted,  tacking  and  stitching.  They  certainly  are 
taught  these  things  in  their  in&ncy.  For  my  part,  I  never  could  to 
this  day  fold  up  a  shirt  or  other  vestment.  A  handkerchief  or  sheet 
I  can  manage,  but  nothing  further ;  everything  else  I  roll  up,  so 
that  if  I  had  to  put  together  my  Chinese  dresses  after  I  had  dried 
them,  I  should  have  made  a  very  clumsy  parcel. 

One  of  the  soldiers  who  had  been  my  patient  both  at  Pari-jong  and 
here  at  Giansu,  for  pains  all  over  his  body,  the  remains  of  a  former 
ill-cured  complaint,  and  who  now  was  much  relieved,  begged  hard  that 
I  and  my  Munshi  would  dine  with  him.  He  had  a  pleasant  apart- 
ment, and  gave  us  a  comfortable  dinner,  not  sparing  his  wine,  and 
knowing  that  I  was  fond  of  wheat  flour  had  plenty  of  farinaceous 
food  served  up.  We  were  waited  upon  by  his  wife — a  good- 
dispositioned  tidy  body,  who  was  also  my  patient  for  a  trifling 
complaint,  and  to  whom  the  soldier  seemed  much  attached.  A 
Chinaman  would  think  it  ill  manners,  indeed,  to  permit  his  wife  to 
sit  down  with  his  guests.  Nor  should  a  young  wife,  in  strict  pro* 
priety,  appear  at  all  among  the  guests ;  but  among  the  lower  orders, 


236  A  CHINESE  GEKEBAUS  OOKGEBT.  [Ch.  IIL 

and  particularly  here  in  Tibet,  where  the  women  have  greater  free- 
dom allowed  them,  and  where  the  Chinamen's  wiyes  are  in  fstct  bat 
ooncnbines/  who,  except  perhaps  in  a  few  rare  instances,  are  left  be- 
hind when  the  husband  returns  to  China,  they  are  not  so  scnipnlons. 
I  had  made  the  yoimg  dame  a  present  of  a  looking-glass  and  other 
trifling  articles  upon  entering  the  honse,  and  had  giyen  a  piece  of 
money  to  their  little  boy,  by  which  I  had  much  gratified  both 
them  and  the  husband. 

A  strange  rustic,  from  the  province  of  Szechuen,  lodged  for 
a  day  or  two  in  the  apartment  on  the  opposite  side  of  our  court- 
yard. He  was  on  his  way  to  Hontsong,^  to  see  his  father,  who  was 
a  high  mandarin  there.  He  was  a  gross,  clumsy,  ruddy-faced  young 
man,  about  twenty,  and  I  should  have  taken  him  for  some  fanner  s 
son.  He  was  silent  and  seemed  uneasy,  perhaps  from  &mily  dis- 
tresses ;  and  all  the  observation  he  communicated  to  us  respecting 
his  travels  was,  that  the  country  he  passed  through  was  detest- 
able. He  came  over  several  times,  and  sat  a  little  while  with  ua, 
but  scarcely  spoke.  He  gave  me  some  very  good  macaroni,  and 
I  upon  that  made  him  a  Uttle  present.  Through  his  stupidity  I 
thought  I  saw  tokens  of  a  good  disposition  in  him,  and  perhaps  he 
was  far  from  being  stupid  by  nature. 

I  had  heard  that  the  (General  was  fond  of  music,  and  no  bad 
performer.  I  took  an  opportunity  one  day,  while  he  was  smoking 
his  pipe  in  my  courtyard,  of  introducing  the  subject,  and  paying  my 
court  to  him  by  requesting  the  fiivour  of  hearing  his  music  This 
brought  me  an  invitation  to  take  an  evening  repast  and  wine  with 
him,  which  was  just  what  I  liked.  He  gave  us  a  very  pretty  con- 
cert ;  several  of  his  soldiers  were  performers,  and  after  the  concert 
we  all  supped  sociably  together.    He  himself  performed  alternately 

*  Although  the  damaels  of  Tihet  are  interim  keep  house  by  themselyeB,  or 

said  to  he  in  general  more  free  of  their  with  their  mother  or  nearest  relations, 

favours  than  is   consistent  with    the  To  judge  by  their  oountenanoe  and 

rules  of  strict  chastity,  yet  these  con-  demeanour,  I  oertainfy  give  full  credit 

oubines  are  universaUy  allowed  to  be  to  the  praises  I  have  heard  bestowed 

faithful  and   well  behaved.      I  have  on  them. — T.  H. 
heard  many  of  them  praised  by  their  '  Some  plaoe   to  the  westward  of 

Chinese  husbands  for  their  good  con-  Giansu   occupied  by  Chinese  troops, 

duct.    When  their  husbands  return  to  Probably   Jonka-jong,  the   important 

China,  they  look  out  for  an  opportunity  position  oommanding  the  Kirong  Paas 

of  maidng  a  similar  engagement  with  into  Nepal.    Bee  farther  on. 
some   other   Chinaman,   and    in   the 


Oh.  in.]  POSTAL  DIFFICULTIES.  237 

on  several  instmments,  and  with  considerable  taste.  Two  of  ths 
soldiers  acted  a  musical  scene  from  a  drama,  while  he  accompanied 
them  on  the  Chinese  guitar.  The  whole  was  done  in  a  very  good 
style.  The  Chinese  music,  though  rather  meagre  to  a  European, 
has  its  beauties,  and  has,  like  most  other  national  music,  its 
peculiar  expression,  of  which  our  musical  notation,  which  we  vainly 
imagine  so  perfect,  conveys  no  idea  whatever.  The  General  insisted 
on  my  giving  him  a  specimen  of  European  (or  Calcutta)  music  on 
the  Chinese  flute.  I  was  not  acquainted  with  the  fingering  of  that 
instrument,  but  I  managed  to  produce  something  which  he  politely 
praised.  He  made  me  play  several  times,  always  makmg  polite 
remarks.  I  constantly  hesitated,  assuring  him  the  flute  with  him 
waj9  in  better  hands ;  which  was  true,  and  which  gave  him  pleasure 
to  hear.  I  tried  a  few  country  dances,  but  perceived  that  that 
quick  kind  of  music  was  not  very  gratifying  to  their  ears.  I  spent 
a  pleasant  evening,  and  stayed  until  past  my  usual  bedtime. 

The  Governor's  polite  and  kind  behaviour,  and  particularly  his 
permitting  me  to  come  on  with  him  to  GHansu,  instead  of  miserably 
waiting  at  Pari-jong,  had  opened  my  heart,  and  I  waa  determined 
to  show  my  gratitude  by  making  him  a  handsome  present.  I  had 
nothing  vrith  me  that  would  suit  that  purpose ;  therefore,  through 
my  Munshi,  I  ascertained  what  he  would  like  to  have  from  Cal- 
cutta, and  determined  to  write  for  it.  The  same  opportunity  would 
serve  for  giving  my  friends  an  account  of  where  I  was,  and  request- 
ing a  reinforcement  of  money,  and  of  some  trifling  articles.  I 
wished  much  to  send  a  special  messenger,  and  assured  the  General 
there  was  no  other  way  so  certain ;  but  he  thought  it  sufficient 
to  forward  my  letter  by  way  of  a  despatch  to  Pari-jong,  with 
special  orders  to  the  magistrates  to  have  it  expedited  through 
Bhutan.  I  had  great  difficulty  in  persuading  the  interpreter  to 
give  me  the  General's  address  in  Tibetan  language;  He  could  not 
undersland  where  the  difficulty  was  of  addressing  a  letter  from 
Bangpur  to  Giansu;  not  aware  that  the  word  Giansu  is  utterly 
unknown  in  Bengal,  aa  is  the  Tibet  appellation  for  Chinaman 
(Gnmmu).  He  and  his  scribe  boggled  at  it  above  an  hour,  pro- 
ducing various  scraps  of  paper,  some  nothing  to  the  purpose,  some 
containing  a  long  story  and  definition,  as  it  were,  of  Giansu;  and 
my  Munshi  began  to  be  cross^  and  would  not  £Amiliarly  illustrate  the 


288 


ILL  HUMOUR  OF  THE  MUNSHI. 


[CB.UI. 


matter  to  them  nor  willingly  suffer  me  to  do  so.  At  length,  after 
yarions  attempts,  the  eyes  of  their  nnderstandings  opened  to  what 
I  wanted,  and  they  produced  a  proper  address,  which  I  enclosed 
in  my  letter.  The  (General  s  wish  was  to  have  fine  broadcloth, 
of  a  particular  (violet)  colour,  sufficient  for  the  very  ample  robes 
for  a  high  mandarin:  he  meant,  he  said,  to  make  a  present  to 
certain  great  officers  in  Szechuen ;  he  also  wished  for  a  pound  or 
two  of  opium. 

I  had  learnt  now,  to  my  great  sorrow  and  discomfort,  that  the 
chief  mandarin  at  Lhasa  was  the  identical  Tatar  chieftain*  who  had 
been  disgraced  at  Canton  for  his  management  during  the  Bengal  ^ 
expedition  to  Macao.  That  he  was  a  man  of  a  particular  sus- 
picious temper,  detested  at  Lhasa,  and  that  he  certainly  would 
give  us  all  the  trouble  in  his  power.  I  slightly  alluded  to  this 
in  a  letter  to  England,  but  putting  a  good  &ce  upon  the  matter ; 
for  though  I  was  annoyed  I  was  not  cast  down.  The  answer  from 
the  Lhasa  magistrate  to  my  request  to  be  permitted  to  proceed  to 
Lhasa  arrived  a  few  days  after  we  had  been  at  Giansu.  It  was 
very  favourable,  and  handsomely  worded,  ordering  me  to  be  pro- 
vided with  everything  necessary,  and  to  oome  on  without  delay. 

The  evening  of  the  day  the  answer  arrived,  the  secretary  paid 
us  a  visit.  He  attributed  the  favourable  issue  greatly  to  the 
excellent  words  he  had  inserted  in  the  petition.  Being  pot- 
valiant,  he  let  his  tongue  run  on  too  freely,  and  boasted  of  his 
services  rather  more  than  he  would  have  done  if  he  had  been  sober. 
My  Munshi,  instead  of  laughing  it  off,  b^an  to  be  spleened,  and 
could  hardly  keep  his  temper.  He  could  not  bear  anyone  should 
repeat  the  same  thing  twice,  or  dwell  upon  frivolous  circumstances* 
With  my  patients,  for  example,  he  was  perpetually  in  ill  humour 
and  crossly  checking.  I  told  him  it  was  natural  for  sick  people  to 
indulge  in  descanting  upon  their  complaints,  and  to  attach  im- 


'  If  I  waa  to  qualify  that  seDseless 
expedition  ?rith  the  epithets  I  think  it 
deflerves,  I  might  seem  harsh. — T.  M. 

When  the  projects  of  Napoleon  as- 
sumed threatening  proportions,  the 
English  Goyemment  reeolyed  to  take 
under  its  protection  the  colonies  of  its 
aUy  PortugaL  Madeira  and  Goa  were 
garrisoned  by  British    troops,  and  a 


force  was  sent  from  Bengal,  by  Lord 
Minto,  to  garrison  Macao.  The  For- 
tnguese  did  not  oppose,  but  the  Chinese 
made  objections,  and  the  dispute  went 
on  until  an  expedition  was  fllted  out 
to  attack  Canton,  which  was  abandoned 
just  at  the  very  moment  it  ought  not. 
(See  Sir  John  Davis's  'China,*  ii. 
Chap.  III.) 


Oh.  m.]  ILL  HUMOUB  OF  THE  MUNSHI.  289 

portanoe  to  trifles  very  tedious  to  listen  to ;  that  there  was  no 
occasion  to  be  very  attentive  to  their  repetitions  and  idle  details ; 
but  that  I  as  their  physician,  and  he  as  my  interpreter,  ought  to 
be  attentive,  kind,  and  complacent.  Mmishi  said  it  was  not  his 
natore ;  he  oonld  not  bear  to  hear  people  talk  in  that  manner.  He 
had  been  very  angry  with  me  once  at  Pari*jong,  upon  my  saying 
that  Pnti,  the  woman  who  interpreted  for  ns,  and  sold  ns  wine, 
was  a  great  fooL  I  could  not  at  the  time  imagine  in  what  I  had 
offended  him.  I  could  not  suppose  he  was  in  love  with  the  lady ; 
for,  though  she  was  not  old,  she  was  wrinkled,  and  foolish  and 
dirty.  He  now  informed  me  that  what  annoyed  him  on  that 
occasion  was,  recollecting  that  not  an  hour  before  I  had  made  the 
same  observation. 

The  General  talked  sometimes  of  his  military  exploits  and  toilsi 
and  assured  my  Munshi  how  much  more  hardy  and  active  and  en- 
during the  soldiers  were  in  his  young  time  than  now.  I  suppose 
the  General  told  him  some  anecdotes  over  twice,  or  oftener,  for  I 
observed  towards  the  end  of  our  stay  at  Giansu,  and  afterwards,  he 
spoke  more  harshly  and  crossly  of  the  General  than  I  thought 
there  was  any  occasion  for.  He  was  angry  with  me  but  once 
durii^  onr  stay  at  Giansu.  when  np<m  some  trifling  occasion  he 
broke  out  with  such  bitterness  and  fury  as  was  scarcely  endurable. 
I  begged  of  him  not  to  eat  me  up,  as  I  wished  to  proceed  farther 
on  my  journey ;  and  then  for  the  first  time  opened  my  mind  to 
him  on  the  unfortunate  state  of  his  temper,  and  lamented  my  ill 
luck  in  having  a  person  with  me  to  whom  I  was  so  afraid  of 
putting  a  question,  that  I  was  perpetually  deterred;  it  being 
necessary  for  me  fi^t  to  go  round  about,  and  with  civil  speech  and 
preface  bring  him  into  the  humour  to  listen  to  it  and  answer  it. 
That  this  necessity  was  a  grievous  burden  to  me;  that  I  never 
used  the  same  precautions  with  any  English  gentleman,  what- 
ever was  his  rank.  He  answered  these  remarks  without  much 
asperity ;  only  observing  that  he  wondered  why  I  brought  him  with 
me  from  Bangpur ;  that  I  should  have  done  better  for  myself  to 
have  left  him  behind.  When  these  fits  were  over  his  behaviour 
returned  to  its  usual  cross  level,  and  I  to  my  usual  serenity ;  never 
on  any  occasion  taunting  him  with  what  had  passed,  or  making 
any  allusion  to  it  whatever. 


240  CHINESE  WARM  CLOTHING.  [Ch.  IH. 

The  General  now  determined  a  day  for  ns  to  depart  from 
GhangOy  and  mentioned  in  his  deepatches  to  Lhasa  what  day  we 
might  be  expected  there.  It  was  not  to  be  diynlged  or  known  at 
Lhasa  that  we  had  come  on  with  him,  but  it  was  to  be  supposed 
that  we  had  waited  at  Pari-jong  for  the  answer  from  Lhasa ;  so  that 
the  question  for  the  Generals  sagacity  to  solve  was  what  day  we 
ought  to  leaye  Giansu,  so  that  our  arrival  at  Lhasa,  and  supposed 
departure  from  Pari-jong,  might  quadrate  with  the  usual  equation  on 
these  roads  between  time  and  space ;  and  I  doubt  but  his  solution 
was  perfectly  correct,  as  I  never  heard  of  any  objection  being 
started  as  to  our  arrival  at  Lhasa  being  too  soon  or  too  late. 

The  tailor  soldiers  now  brought  home  our  clothes.  My  robe 
was  prodigiously  heavy.  It  was  an  ample  ooarsish  red  wooUen- 
doth  robe  with  fur  cuffs ;  it  was  lined  with  cotton  doth,  and  upon 
the  cotton  cloth  was  stitched  a  dressed  sheepskin  with  all  the  wool 
on.  I  had  also  bought  stockings  of  the  same  kind  of  sheepskin, 
under  which,  if  I  pleased,  I  could  put  one  or  two  pairs  of  common 
worsted  or  botton  stockings,  and  over  all  draw  my  Chinese  boots, 
so  that  I  was  able  to  keep  my  feet  cosey  whatever  weather  might 
ensue.  I  had  a  sort  of  fur  tippet,  and  a  quilted  cap  to  defend  my 
face  and  ears,  and  which  I  found  very  useful  at  Lhasa,  always 
wearing  it  in  the  streets  during  the  very  cold  weather  when  I 
went  out  to  visit  the  Grand  Lama  or  mandarins  early  of  mornings; 
although  by  so  doing  I  perhaps  provoked  the  laughter  of  the 
Chinese,  among  whom  it  is  v^  unfiashionable  to  wear  anything 
over  their  ears,  except  on  journeys,  that  I  dare  say  they  wonld 
rather  have  their  ears  drop  off  in  the  streets  with  cold  than  cover 
them.  Even  the  little  plush  beaver  hats  they  wear  in  the  house, 
which  the  common  people  wear  also  abroad,  are  so  turned  up  as  to 
cover  only  the  tops  of  their  heads.  I  bought  one  at  Lhasa  for  ihe 
house,  and  wore  it  turned  down  comfortably,  spite  of  the  remon- 
strances and  smiles  of  my  Munshi  and  servant,  who  assured  me  it 
was  not  worn  so.  I  told  them  my  ears  were  of  more  consequence 
to  me  than  the  fashion. 


Ch.  IVJ 


JOKES  WITH  THE  CHINESE  SOLDIERS. 


241 


CHAPTER  IV. 


JOURNEY  FROM  GIANSU  TO  LHASA. 

On  the  morning  of  our  departnre  our  friends  came  about  us  to 
assist  us  and  see  that  all  was  right  and  tight.  We  called  on  the 
General,  who  afterwards  had  the  politeness  to  come  down  to  our 
lodging  to  see  that  we  wanted  for  nothing,  and  to  give  such  orders 
as  he  thought  might  be  useful  to  us.  After  that  we  chatted  half 
an  hour  with  the  soldiers.^  I  made  a  few  jokes  to  make  them 
laugh.  To  the  soldier  I  had  dined  with  I  gave  in  charge  mj  large 
fine  light  bamboo  Cochin  China  umbrella  hat.  For  the  joke's  sake 
he  put  it  on.  It  was  impossible  for  him,  as  a  Chinaman,  to  wear  such 
a  thing ;  and  I,  to  increase  the  hilarity,  putting  on  a  serious  face, 
begged  of  him  to  take  care  of  it  for  me,  and  not  wear  it  out.  This 
joke  was  so  good  that,  with  slight  variations,  it  bore  repeating 
three  or  four  idmes.  At  last  we  took  leave,  mounted  our  nags,  and 
trotted  off. 

Our  horses  were  stout  and  good,  and  I  expected  to  have  had 
them  for  aU  day.  The  General  had  promised  that  he  would  take 
care  that  the  magistrate  should  give  us  a  passport  of  the  best  sort, 
and  such  as  would  make  the  village  we  lodged  at  provide  us  horses 
for  the  day.  I  have  no  doubt  he  intended  it  to  be  so,  and  gave  such 
orders,  but  he  did  not  look  dose  enough  to  it.  The  magistrate 
merely  continued  us  on  the  same  passport  we  came  wiiJb  from 


*  The  word  soldiers  may  suggest  the 
idea  that  we  were  among  rough  and 
fierce  companions  at  Giansu,  but  not 
so;  though  their  title  was  military, 
their  appearance,  demeanour,  and 
manners  were  perfectly  civil.  The 
soldier  tailor  had  the  delicate  skin, 
the  indoor  gestures  and  actions, 
the  gentle  voice,  unwarlike  mien  of 
a  real  tailor;  and  the  rest,  if  their 
appearance  was  not  quite  so  much 
a  contrast  to  their  profession  as  his 


was,  yet  had  all  of  them  the  civil 
manners  and  gentieneas  and  unmilitary 
carriage  of  body  of  so  many  tradesmen, 
or  tradesmen's  clerks.  Yet  these  men 
oaght  to  be  among  the  best  of  the 
Chinese  soldiers.  They  guard  the 
frontiers;  they  have  occasional  skir- 
mishes with  the  Nepalese  and  Bhu- 
tanese.  The  enemies  they  have  to 
contend  with  are  still  inferior,  I  believe, 
and  have  less  military  art  among 
them.— T.  M. 


242 


MILITARY  POSTMEN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


Pari-jong.  Whether  it  was  that  this  arrangement  ifvas  really  much 
more  conyenient  to  him,  or  that  he  was  offianded  at  my  Mmuhi's 
want  of  respect,  and  determined  to  treat  ns  slightingly,  I  cannot 
say.  We  had  not  gone  three  miles  out  of  the  town  before  onr 
sturdy  horses  and  bluff  cattle  were  exchanged  for  sorry  jades,  lean 
kine,  and  half-starved,  tottering  asses,  scarcely  able  to  bear  the 
burdens  imposed  on  them.  One  of  the  horses  was  without  a 
bridle  —  this,  they  said,  was  of  no  consequence,  he  was  very 
gentle ;  the  saddle  of  the  other  was  so  small  and  narrow  from  head 
to  stem,  besides  being  imperfect  and  having  a  great  braiss  bump  in 
the  middle,  as  to  cramp  me  and  render  my  ride  uncomfortable. 
We  got  on  very  slowly ;  the  sun  was  scorching  hot,  and  from  the 
nature  of  the  soil  reflected  strongly  against  our  &ces.  One  side  of 
mine  was  completely  blistered ;  and  though  the  stage  was  short, 
when  we  arriyed  at  our  resting' place  I  was  really  indisposed,  from 
fatigue  of  uneasy  posture,  heat,  and  yexation. 

Our  lodging  was  at  the  postmaster's.    At  every  stage,  bom 
Szechuen  through  Lhasa  and  Shigatz^  to  Hontsong  ^  and  the  borders 
of  Nepal,  is  stationed  at  least  one  Chinese  soldier,  to  forward  the 
despatches.     These  post-houses,  though  from  the  barrenness  of 
the  country  they  are  miserably  famished,  yet  compared  with  the 
ordinary  Tibet  men's  houses,  they  are  elegant  and  comfortable. 
The  Chinese  are  really  civilized,  and  do  not  live  like  cattle ;  and  it 
is  a  comfort,  after  having  lodged  in  smoke  and  dirt  with  the  native 
animals  of  Tibet,  to  take  shelter  in  a  Chinaman's  house,  where  you 
are  sure  of  urbanity  and  cleanliness  at  least.    Our  host  was  a  great 
coxcomb.    He  was  young  and  rather  handsome  in  his  person  (and 
had  a  handsome  Tibet  wife),  and  affected  great  elegance  in  bis 
manners  and  diction.    This  character  amused  me;  I  had  never 
seen  it  before  among  the  Chinese,  though  upon  inquiring  of  my 
Munshi  he  said  it  was  not  uncommon  in  China.^ 


*  Clearly  Jonka-jong,  the  important 
Qhineae  poet,  at  the  head  of  the  Eirong 
Pubs,  leading  to  Nepal. 

*  Almost  ^1  the  Chinese  in  Tibet  are 
from  the  provinoe  of  Szechuen,  and  a 
great  many  of  them  are  Mubammadans. 
Onr  fool  of  11  servant  was  a  Hnhamma- 
dan.  This  coxoomb  was  a  Huhammadan. 


For  the  mo^t  part  they  are  totally  igno- 
rant of  the  dootrines  of  their  religioo, 
and  only  acquainted  with  some  of  its 
external  rites.  Our  serrant  knew 
nothing  further  of  it,  I  believe,  than 
that  Muhanmtadans  circumcise,  and 
abstain,  or  rather  ought  to  abstain. 
from  pork  and  wine. — T.  M. 


ch.  rv.] 


MOUNTAINS  OF  THE  CENTRAL  CHAIN. 


243 


The  next  day  our  ride  was  more  pleasant  and  not  so  hot  Oar 
road  seldom  lay  fisur.  from  the  riyer,  which  flowed  through  the  valley 
towards  Oiansn,  for  hoth  this  day  and  the  preceding,  and  part  of 
the  next,  we  gradually  ascended  to  a  higher  leyeL  We  again 
lodged  at  the  post-house,  which  was  large  and,  comparatively 
speaking,  magnificent.  Oar  host  was  quite  a  different  character 
from  the  last,  heing  the  reverse  of  a  coxcomb,  careless  in  his 
speech,  and  not  talkative.  By  something  particular  in  his  civility 
I  knew  that  he  wanted  my  medical  assistance :  it  was  for  his  child, 
who  had  an  ulcer  in  an  awkward  place  behind.  I  left  them 
lotions,  and  directions.  They  were  very  thankftil,  and  his  wife 
or  yateu  catened  ^  me. 

We  were  off  very  early  the  next  morning,  after  having  taken  by 
candle-light  a  good  meat  repast  which  our  host  gave  us,  and  which 
our  cook  had  been  busy  in  helping  to  prepare  for  hours  before  day- 
light. It  was  a  bitter  cold  morning.  We  had  now  drawn  near  a 
set  of  snowy  mountains.  One  of  these  mountains  we  partly  wound 
round.  On  coming  to  the  side  where  the  streams  descend  from  it, 
our  veay  lay  over  masses  of  ice,  which  our  horses  scrambled  over 
with  some  difficulty.  In  general,  the  Tibet  horses  are  very  sure- 
footed upon  the  ice,  making  but  few  slides.  We  afterwards  passed 
at  an  inconsiderable  distance  &om  a  small  glacier,^  which  descended 
down  to  the  level  of  the  road  we  were  on.  Munshi  and  our 
servant  now  pushed  forward,  whQe  I  continued  to  jog  on  with  the 
conductor,  who  did  not  seem  inclined  to  leave  the  cattle  drivers. 
Upon  coming  to  a  village  where  there  was  a  considerable  ascent 
and  descent,  I  found  my  Munshi  waiting  for  me.  He  had  let  the 
foolish  servant  trot  on  by  Imnself.  He  had  done  prudently,  as  it 
was  at  this  village  we  were  to  stop  and  refresh.    Here  I  found  that 


^  Oaten  means  bow  down  the  head 
to  the  ground ;  it  is  the  name  for  the 
Chinese  prostration  before  high  man- 
darins. In  salating  the  Grand  Lama 
I  always  gave  him  three  oatens.  The 
Ohinamen  in  general,  I  believe,  give 
liim  only  one. — T.  M. 

'  The  Pundit  of  1866  also  noticed  a 
l^lacier  between  Giansn  and  the  Yam- 
«iok-cha  Lake.  He  calls  it  a  very  large 
one.    This  is  the  great   range  of  the 


central  Himalayas,  from  whioh  several 
of  the  main  tributaries  of  the  Ghinges 
and  Brahmaputra,  and  one  bmnoh  of 
the  Ganges  itself,  take  their  rise.  The 
Lidus,  Sutlej,  and  Brahmaputra  break 
through  it  from  north  to. south;  and 
the  Painam,  or  Penanang,  along  the 
valley  of  which  Bogle,  Turner,  and 
Manning  travelled,  from  south  to 
north,  flowing  to  the  Brahmaputra. 

B  2 


244 


THE  PALTI  LAKE. 


[Ch.  IV. 


the  fame  of  my  medical  skill  was  not  promulgated  on  the  road  by 
my  servant,  bat  had  preceded  me,  and  been  conveyed  &om  station 
to  station  by  couriers  or  other  travellers  &om  Giansu.  Almost  as 
soon  as  I  entered  the  postmaster's  honse  I  predicted  to  my  Mimshi 
that  he  wonld  apply  to  me  as  physician.  It  was  for  himself  and 
for  his  pretty  wife.  I  felt  both  their  pulses  with  due  gravity, 
inspected  their  eyes  and  oountenances,  inquired  into  particulars, 
and  gave  them  piUs,  and  directions.  Our  servant,  after  proceeding 
some  way  alone,  found  out  his  error,  returned  and  mounted  the  hill 
again,  time  enough  to  help  in  preparing  our  repast.  Pursuing  our 
course,  and  gradually  descending,  the  valley  at  length  opened  into 
a  large  stony  plain,  at  the  end  of  which  stood  a  considerable 
town^  on  the  margin  of  an  extensive  lake,^  or  Httle  sea,  as  it  is 


'  Probably  Piahte-jong  of  the  Pandit 
of  1866. 

'  The  Chinese  name  for  these  pieces 
of  water  is  slaitz.  Slai  signifies  sea, 
and  tz  (son)  is  in  this  case  a  sort  of 
diminntive.  If  the  word  sealet  was 
current  in  our  language,  it  wonld  serve 
to  translate  slaitz.— T.  M. 

This  was  the  famous  ring-like  lake 
of  Palti,  which  has  appeared  on  aU 
maps  since  the  days  of  D'AnvUle.  The 
peculiar  lake  of  Pulti,  Plate,  or  Yam- 
dok-chu,  with  its  great  central  is! and, 
like  a  large  ring,  first  appeared  on  the 
map  prepared  by  D'Anyille,  from  the 
survey  d  the  lamas,  under  Jesuit  in- 
struction, which  was  published  by  Du 
Halde  in  1735.  It  has  been  repeated 
on  all  subsequent  general  maps.  Giorgi, 
in  his  *  Alphabetum  Tibetanum '  (1762) 
says,  that "  Palte  Lake,  otherwise  called 
Jangso  or  Tamdso,  according  to  native 
report  is  of  very  great  size,  so  that  a 
man  could  not  journey  round  it  under 
eighteen  days.  It  is  three  days'  journey 
from  Lhasa.  From  the  middle  of  the 
lake  rises  a  continuous  chain  of  hills 
and  islands.  On  the  southern  side  is  a 
monastery,  the  abode  of  a  great  queen, 
who  is  bom  a  second  time,  called  Tor- 
eepano.  She  is  honoured  as  a  real 
goddess  by  the  Indians  and  Nepalese, 
who  worship  her  under  the  name  of 
Bovani.  The  Tibetans  believe  a  cer- 
tain holy  spirit  is  re-bom  in  its  divine 


essence  in  this  hideous  female,  just  as  in 
the  Grand  Lama.  Whenever  she  issues 
from  her  house,  or  from  the  island, 
or  journeys  into  the  city  of  Lhasa,  a 
procession  precedes  her,**  &o^  Ace 

Mr.  Bogle,  it  will  be  remembered, 
made  the  acquaintance  of  this  female 
divinity ;  and  Dr.  Hamilton  cured  her 
of  an  illness,  and  visited  her  constantly. 
(fiee  pp.  105, 108,  and  109.) 

Mr.  Manning  is  the  only  English- 
man who  ever  saw  Lake  Palti,  and  it 
appears  from  the  text  that  he  was  not 
aware  that  the  hills  on  the  opposite 
shore  formed  an  island. 

Gn  the  1st  of  January,  1866,  the  Pun- 
dit, trained  and  sent  on  his  travels  by 
Golonel  Montgomerie,  arrived  at  the 
banks  of  the  Palti,  or  Tamdok-eha 
Lake,  at  a  small  post  caUed  Piahte-jong. 
He  describes  the  breadth  of  the  lake  aa 
varying  from  two  to  three  miles,  and 
says  that  it  is  reported  to  be  very  deep. 
In  the  centre  of  the  lake  there  is  m,  hill, 
at  the  foot  of  which  are  situated  a 
number  of  villages.  The  circumfereDoe 
of  the  lake  is  about  45  miles;  it  is 
crossed  in  wicker  boats  covered  with 
leather.  The  Pundit  rode  along  tbe 
banks  from  Piahte-jong  to  tbe  village 
of  Demalung,  from  which  point  the 
lake  stretches  to  the  south-east  about 
20  miles,  and  then  turns  west 

This  is  the  Pundit's  account  of  the 
lake,  extracted  from  his  diary.      He 


Oh.  IV.]    MUNSHrS  WANT  OF  APPRECIATION  OF  SCENEBY.       245 


called.  From  the  opposite  or  farther  margin  of  the  lake  rose 
diminntive  monntaiiis  in  a  continued  chain,  which  bounded  the 
whole  prospect  in  front.^  It  was  near  dose  of  day  when  we  reached 
this  town.  We  had  difficulties  in  procuring  a  lodging.  Our  guide 
had  left  us  to  go  to  the  magistrates.  Our  serrant  had  formerly  had 
some  quarrel  with  or  had  offended  the  Chinaman  stationed  here, 
and  did  not  choose  to  apply  to  him.  We  rode  up  one  way,  and 
down  another,  and  loitered  about,  until  at  last  we  were  shown  into  a 
wretched  place,  where  the  apartment  had  walls  only  on  three  sides, 
the  fourth  being  open  like  a  coachhouse,  without  doors.  Moreover, 
we  were  told  they  could  give  us  nothing  to  eat  or  drink.  As  we 
had  money  in  our  pockets,  there  was  no  danger  of  starving  in  a 
large  town,  not  to  mention  that  we  had  provisions  in  our  wallet — 
mutton  and  butter,  besides  a  piece  of  excellent  pickled  pork  that 
the  General  had,  among  other  things,  given  us  for  prog  on  the 
road.  So  I  left  them  to  settle  the  dispute  as  ^they  liked,  and  sat 
down  on  the  roof  of  the  house  to  enjoy  the  view  of  the  lake  at 
sunset. 

My  Munshi  did  not  seem  to  have  much  relish  for  prospects ; 
he  never  made  a  single  observation  on  any  one  (or  indeed, 
scarcely  on  any  other  subject)  during  our  whole  journey.  I  once 
brought  him  to  acknowledge,  coldly  acknowledge,  the  beauty  of 
one.  It  was  the  opening  to  our  view  of  the  valley  of  Paro.  The 
living  crystal  stream  purely  flowing  and  sparkling  through  the 
valley  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach ;  the  cornfields  and  pasturages ; 
the  sunbeams  checked  by  the  branches  of  trees ;  the  houses,  here 
collected  into  villages,  there  scattered  into  single  &rms ;  the  wooded 
hills,  with  cattle  grazing  on  their  brows ;  the  bold  spires  and  clif& ; 
blue  tops  of  distant  mountains — I  made  him  confess  that  this  was 
a  charming  sight  after  the  dreary  forests  and  moimtains  we  had 
passed  enveloped  in  mist  and  rain. 


further  reported  to  Ck>1onel  Montgo- 
merie,  that  he  was  informed  that  the 
lake  encircled  a  large  island,  which 
rifles  into  low,  rounded  hills,  2000  or 
8000  feet  high,  and  covered  with  grass 
to  the  top.  Between  the  hilU  and  the 
margin  of  the  lake  seTeral  yillages  and 
a  white  monastery  were  yisible  on  the 
island.    The  Pundit  was  told  that  the 


lake  had  no  outlet,  but,  he  says,  its 
waters  were  perfectly  fresh.  Mr.  Man- 
ning, on  the  contrary,  says,  in  the  text, 
that  the  water  of  the  lake  is  very  bad. 
The  Pundit's  obseryations  make  the 
lake  13,500  feet  abore  the  sea ;  and  the 
island  rises  to  16,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
'  These  are  the  hills  of  the  large 
island  in  the  centre  of  the  lake. 


246  TRAVELLING  ARRANGEMENTS.  [Ch.  IV. 

Our  conductor  afterwards  made  his  appearance,  and  told  us  his 
mission  was  at  an  end ;  he  was  now  to  return  to  Giansu.  This 
surprised  us ;  we  expected  he  was  to  go  with  us  to  Lhasa.  I  gave 
him  a  small  gratuity,  for  which  he  wad  yery  thankful,  and  went 
away.  But  now  I  found  I  had  been  too  hasty  in  my  donation ; 
yet  it  was  with  the  concurrence  of  my  prudent  Munshi.  I  should 
have  deferred  it  until  he  had  delivered  us  and  our  luggage  into  the 
hands  of  some  other  conductor ;  for  we  soon  found  that  we  were 
left  destitute ;  nobody  to  provide  us  horses  and  cattle.  My  Munshi 
and  I  consulted  together,  and  agreed  that  it  was  best  for  him  to  go 
to  the  Chinaman's  house,  show  him  our  pass,  explain  our  case,  and 
ask  his  assistance.  Upon  going  into  the  street,  Munshi  found  our 
old  conductor  surrounded  by  the  townspeople,  who  clamorously 
pressed  upon  him,  and  seemed  almost  to  be  coming  to  blows  with 
him.  He  was  representing  our  case  and  trying  to  serve  us ;  but 
these  townspeople,  it  seems,  had  no  inclination  to  forward  us  on  to 
Lhasa.  Whether  it  was  that  they  thought  their  cattle  better 
employed  for  other  purposes,  or  that  they  wished  us  to  honour  their 
town  with  our  residence,  I  cannot  say.  I  suspect  the  former. 
However,  Munshi  went  to  the  Chinaman,  who  came  and  presently 
settled  the  matter  for  us.  He  sat  down  in  one  of  our  chairs,  and 
affecting  all  the  decisive  gravity  and  authority  of  a  magistrate, 
determined  what  horses  we  wanted,  and  provided  us  a  con- 
ductor, to  whose  care  we  entrusted  all  our  goods  and  chattel& 
I  had  no  suitable  present  at  hand  to  give  the  Chinaman  for  his 
good  services,  and  money  might  have  offended  his  worship ;  so  we 
wrapped  up  two  or  three  pieces  of  silver  in  paper,  and  Munshi 
went  again  to  his  house  and  presented  it  to  his  wife.  This  was 
gratefully  received  as']a  full  recompense  foe  his  trouble,  and  ensured 
his  future  services,  in  case  anything  further  should  happen  to 
annoy  us.  We  ate  our  suppers,  hung  up  an  old  cloth  over  part  of 
the  room  to  keep  out  a  little  of  the  wind  during  the  night,  spread 
our  beds,  and  went  to  sleep. 

Our  people  came  very  late  the  next  morning,  and  were  a  long 
while  in  getting  our  things  off;  and  we  had  not  gone  six  miles 
along  the  lake  before  we -changed  horses.  We  stopped  at  a 
respectable  farmhouse,  where  the  family  had,  I  thought,  very 
pleasant  faces,  and  great  kindness  of  manner.    They  were  the 


Gh.  rV.]  TRAYELUNG  ALONG  THE  8H0BBS  OF  LAKE  PALTL  247 

first  Tibet  people  I  had  seen  that  I  at  all  wished  to  be  ac- 
quainted with.  As  the  weather  was  rather  cold,  the  old  man  of 
the  house  ordered  a  pan  of  ooals  into  onr  room,  for  ns  to  warm  our 
fingers  and  noses.  I  was  sorry  I  oonld  not  talk  with  him.  As  for 
using  the  medinm  of  my  servant,  who  spoke  bad  Tibetan  fluently 
enough,  it  would  haye  been  to  no  purpose.  His  impertinent, 
insolent  manner  did  not  at  all  harmonize  with  ours.  I  was  vexed 
and  pained  to  see  him  encroach  upon  their  kindness,  and  imperiously 
demand  their  services,  as  it  were,  keeping  the  attendants  waiting 
with  the  broth-pot,  after  he  had  enjoyed  a  plentiful  repast,  and  had 
as  much  remaining  in  his  cup  as  he  meant  to  eat ;  when  with  a 
single  word  he  might  have  let  them  go  and  finish  the  pot  by  them- 
selves, while  it  was  warm  and  good.  Though  I  could  not  speak,  I 
tried  to  express  by  my  manners  and  countenance  that  their  kindness 
was  not  thrown  away  upon  me ;  and  as  in  these  cases  there  is  un- 
doubtedly a  great  sympathy,  I  trust  they  partly  understood  my 
sentiments. 

We  now  wound  round  the  lake  to  a  village  on  the  other 
side,  where  we  changed  again.  Here  the  people  were  miserably 
poor.  The  scholar  of  the  village  read  our  pass,  and  found  that 
they  were  bound  to  provide  us  meat;  but  they  pleaded  their 
poverty,  and  begged  us  to  be  contented  with  che-broth  and 
parched  flour.  Their  plea  was  not  in  vain.  I  knew  it  to  be  no 
fiction ;  the  whole  country  had  been  afflicted  with  bad  crops  for 
successive  years,  and  this  year  a  cruel,  killing,  latter  troet,  vnth 
hail,  desolated  their  fields,  and  blighted  a  great  portion  of  their 
com.  We  travelled  on,  still  winding  round  the  lake,  in  a  narrow, 
stony  path  between  that  and  the  mountains,  and  in  the  afternoon 
I  found  we  were  exactly  opposite  to  the  town  we  had  set  off  firom 
in  the  morning,  at  no  great  distance,  separated  from  us  only  by  the 
width  of  the  lake.  I  could  not  help  thinking  that  a  ferry-boat 
might  very  advantageously  be  added  to  this  town's  appurtenances. 
But  it  seems  no  boats  whatever  are  used  on  this  lake ;  and  though  it 
is  stored  with  fish,  which  are  a  great  reUef  to  the  poor  in  the 
summer  time,  when  they  come  into  the  shallows  and  towards  the 
shore,  and  suffer  themselves  to  be  caught,  yet  they  have  no  nets, 
I  vTas  told,  or  method  of  taking  them  out  of  the  deeps;  so  that  it  is 
only  during  a  few  months  of  the  year  that  they  avail  themselves  of 


248  PLAYFUL  BAYENS.  XCh.  IV. 

the  ample  provision  Nature  had  laid  before  them.  The  water  of 
this  lake  is  said  to  be  very  miwholeeome ;  it  is  not  drank  by  the 
inhabitants  of  the  snrronnding  villages,'  though  I  fonnd  they  per- 
mitted their  cattle  to  water  at  it.  I  was  told  they  have  a  custom 
of  throwing  their  dead  into  it,  which  I  have  no  reason  to  disbelieve. 
The  nnmber  of  wild  fowl  in  the  lake  is  very  inconsiderable.  From 
what  I  saw  and  heard  of  Tibet,  &om  its  barrenness,  and  from  the 
natnre  of  the  soil,  if  soil  it  may  be  called,  I  shonid  jndge  that  it 
cannot  possibly  support  large  flocks  of  birds.  I  do  not  know  from 
what  data  or  what  observations  Mr.  Tnmer  drew  a  contrary  con- 
elusion.  Turning  my  head  back  towards  the  west,  I  had  a  noble 
view  of  a  set  of  snowy  mountains  collected  into  a  focus,  as  it  were ; 
their  summits  empurpled  with  the  evening  sun,  and  their  majestic, 
graceful  forms  ever  varying  as  I  advanced  'into  new  positions. 
Though  I  kept  a  long,  long  lingering  eye  upon  them,  yet  I  heartily 
wished  that  I  might  never  see  them  again.  My  lips  almost  spon- 
taneously pronounced  this  wish  repeatedly,  as  I  apostrophized  them 
in  my  mind.    Fruitless  wish  ! 

Our  resting  place  was  a  small  town '  on  the  borders  of  the 
lake,  embellished  and  rendered  conspicuous  by  a  lofty,  massive 
castle,  the  residence  of  the  magistrate,  who,  they  said,  was  a 
woman,  and  of  whom  they  complained  as  capricious  and  tyran- 
nical.^ I  was  amazed  for  a  long  time  with  observing  the 
numerous  ravens  that  were  playing  about  the  castle  and  floating 
over  the  lake.  I  did  not  know  that  they  were  so  social,  so  frolic- 
some, and  so  joyous.  They  wantoned  about  in  a  thousand  different 
manners  and  postures,  sometimes  pursuing  each  other,  and  making 
a  mock  fight ;  sometimes  separately ;  sometimes  rising ;  sometimes 
falling  with  dosed  wings ;  sometimes  floating  awhile  in  the  air  on 
their  backs;  sometimes  lying  edgewise;  sometimes  whirling  round 
the  building  with  vast  rapidity;  and  aU  with  an  eagemeas  and 
joyousness  of  motions  and  cries  and  screams  that  showed  the  over- 
flowings of  happy  sensations  too  plainly  to  be  mistaken.    Many  of 

*  If  the  water  is  bo  brackish  there  is  *  This,  doubtless,  is  the  female  in- 

no  reason  for  doubting  the  report  of  carnation  of  Giorgi,  whose  acqnauii- 

the  Pundit  of  1866,  that  the  IiJce  has  ance  Mr.  Bogle  and   Dr.   Uanulfam 

no  outlet  made.     (See  pp.  108,  109,  and   the 

'  Probably    the   Demalung   of   the  foregoing  note  on  the  Palti  Lake.) 
Pundit  of  1866. 


Oh.  IV.]  THE  MUNSHI  GRUMBLING.  249 

the  rayons  about  this  lake,  and  many  in  Lhasa,  emit  a  peculiar  and 
extraordinary  sound,  which  I  call  metallic.^  It  is  as  if  their  throat 
was  a  metal  tube,  with  a  stiff  metal  elastic  musical  spring  fixed  in 
it,  which,  pulled  aside  and  let  go,  should  give  a  vibrating  note, 
sounding  like  the  pronunciation  of  the  word  poinff,  or  Bcroong^  with 
the  lips  protruded,  and  with  a  certain  musical  accent.  The  other  is 
similar  to  that  of  the  ravens  in  Europe,  yet  still  has  something  of 
the  metallic  sound  in  it.  Whether  there  be  two  species  of  ravens 
here,  or  whether  it  be  that  the  male  and  female  of  the  same  species 
have  each  their  peculiar  note,  I  cannot  say. 

Munshi,  who  had  been  to  the  postmaster's  to  consult  and  talk 
with  him,  came  in  and  informed  me  that  there  was  no  meat  to  be  had 
in  this  place ;  that  we  must  make  shift  with  what  we  had  with  us. 
This  gave  me  no  concern;  it  scarcely  made  any  impression  on  me; 
but  somehow  at  supper  he  fancied  I  was  discontented,  and  opened 
with  cross  speeches,  saying  we  were  not  great  mandarins,  he  could 
not  command  things.  I  laughed,  and  assured  him  (which  was 
really  true)  that  I  did  not  perceive  any  deficiency  in  our  supper. 
It  was  as  good  as  usual,  was  it  not  ?  What  had  we  at  other  times 
superior  to  it  ?  Thus,  as  I  was  provoked  to  it,  obliquely  hinting 
my  contempt  for  our  servant's  cookery.  In  fact,  we  this  night  had 
some  of  the  General's  excellent  bacon  simply  fried ;  we  had  eggs, 
we  had  flour  food,  butter,  and,  if  I  recollect  right,  there  was  a  little 
bit  of  mutton.  A  very  little  satisfies  me.  I  am  not  at  all  anxious 
about  my  meals,  but  my  palate  is  very  discriminating  ^th  respect 
to  the  qualities  of  things,  whether  wheat,  or  rice,  or  meat,  and 
also  with  respect  to  the  cookery ;  and  I  prefer  a  boiled  egg  and 
salt  to  an  ill-dressed  ragout. 

We  had  still  six  or  eight  miles  more  along  the  margin  of  the 
lake,  after  which  we  were  to  leave  it  to  the  right,  and  cross  over  a 
mountain.  We  sauntered  along  to  the  village  at  the  foot  of  this  moun- 
tain. Our  servant  came  slowly  after  us :  he  was  miserably  mounted, 
and  always  impatient  and  brutal  with  his  horse.  He  had  thrown 
him  down  and  broken  our  China  cups.  We  found  no  horses  ready  for 
us  at  the  village ;  they  were  to  seek  and  fetch  up  from  a  considerable 
distance.  The  consequence  was  we  were  obliged  to  wait  a  long 
time,  and  set  forward  a  fall  hour  later  than  we  ought.    The  height 

*  The  raven  of  the  Arctic  regions  {Chrvw  oorax)  also  gives  out  a  bell-like  croak. 


250  ON  THE  BANKS  OP  THE  TSANPU.  [Ch.  IV. 

of  the  mountain  was  trifling.     After  a  mile  and  a  half  or  two 
miles  easy  ascent  we  were  at  the  top ;  bnt  the  level  of  the  valley 
on  the  other  side  was  considerably  lower  than  the  one  we  departed 
from.    The  descent  was  long,  tedious,  and  in  many  places  trouble- 
some.^   It  was  dark  and  silent   night  before  we  reached  the 
village  we  were  to  lodge  at,^    Our  conductor  was  far,  far  behind, 
with  the  baggage.     Our  servant  rode  about  from  house  to  house 
vainly  endeavouring  to  find  a  place  for  us.    After  about  half  an 
hour  the  Chinese  postmaster  came  out  and  escorted  us  to  our  desti- 
nation.   Whether  it  was  that  my  Munshi,  tired  of  the  servant's 
folly,  had  applied  to  him,  or  whether  it  was  that  he  heard  us 
tramping  and  talking  in  the  streets,  I  did  not  inquire.     Bebg 
warmly  clothed  I  had  a  perfect  nonchalance  on  these  occasions,  and 
if  we  had  stayed  two  hours  in  the  street  I  should  not  have  been 
impatient  or  discomposed.     We  were  ushered  into  a  sort  of  open 
gallery.    The  night  was  fine^and  calm,  though  frosty ;  the  house 
was  full  of  smoke,  and  I  was  glad  we  were  not  invited  into  it. 
The  master  of  the  house  took  our  passport  in  hand,  which  consisted 
of  about  ten  lines.     Our  servant  held  one  of  our  candles  to  it. 
With  an  audible  voice  the  good  man  hammered  through  it  again 
and  again,  and  in  the  course  of  about  half  an  hour  he  seemed  to 
have  spelt  out  and  acquired  some  notion  of  its  general  purpose, 
and  gave  it  back  into  our  hands.     At  one  end  of  the  gallery  I 
found  a  lofty-walled,  square  chamber,  open  at  top,  in  which  was 
piled  plenty  of  dean  straw.     I  made  myself  a  nest  and  lay  down 
and  took  a  nap  while  supper  was  preparing.     I  intended  passing 
the  night  there,  but  after  lying  about  an  hour,  I  found  a  certain 
damp    and  chilliness    descending    from   the   sky  above,  which, 
together  with  the  remonstrances  of  my  servant,  who  was  more  used 
to  the  climate  than  I,  dissuaded  me  from  it.     We  chose  a  spot 
under  cover,  where  there  was  a  wall  behind,  and  on  one  side,  and 
the  house  in  front,  which,  though  not  absolutely  contiguous,  formed 
a  sort  of  third  wall.    The  fourth  side  was  partly  sheltered  hj 
beams  and  rails.     I  ordered  plenty  of  straw  to  be  brought,  pulled 
my  red  woollen  nightcap  over  my  ears,  lay  down  in  my  dothes, 
and  slept  as  usual.     Though  I  felt  no  immediate  ill  consequences 

*  The  Pundit  of  1866  callfl  this  the  Khamba-la  MouDtain,  and  sayfi  it  is  the 
boundary  between  the  prorinces  of  U  and  Tsang. 

'  Probably  the  Khamba  Barchi  of  the  Pundit  of  1806. 


Ch.  IV.]  GROSSING  THE  TSANPU.  251 

from  thus  sleeping  exposed  to  the  frosty  night  air,  I  believe  it  to 
be  injurious  to  a  European,  who  cannot  endore  to  entirely  cover 
np  his  &ce  and  head.  I  afterwards,  at  Lhasa,  had  a  pretty  severe 
attack  of  the  acute  rheumatism,  which — ^though  ft  might  partly  be 
occasioned  by  frequent  alternations  from  heat  to  cold,  from  broiling 
sunshine  to  frosty  shade,  and  by  the  exposure  to  early  morning 
cold,  to  which  I  was  subjected  during  the  first  part  of  my  residence 
at  Lhasa — I  cannot  but  partly  attribute  to  these  partial  and  im- 
perfect night  shelters. 

We  were  now  in  the  valley  in  which  the  town  of  Lhasa  stands, 
distant  from  it  about  fifty  or  sixty  miles.^  No  part  of  Tibet  that  I 
have  seen  is  so  pleasant  as  the  part  we  passed  through  in  our  next 
morning's  ride.  The  valley  was  wide,  a  lively  stream  flowed  through 
it,  houses  and  villages  were  scattered  about,  and  under  the 
shelter  of  moimtains,  on  the  farther  side,  was  a  large  white  town, 
pleasantly  situated,  and  affording  an  agreeable  prospect.  The 
place  was  not  destitute  of  trees  nor  of  arable  land,  and  an  air  of 
gaiety  was  spread  over  the  whole,  and,  I  thought,  on  the  faces  of 
the  people.  We  stopped  while  horses  were  preparing  imder  a 
shed  in  a  large,  clean,  pleasant  paved,  yard,  like  an  inn  yard  in 
England.  We  had  good  cushions  set  out  for  us,  and  were 
served  with  suehi,  with  a  cheerfulness  and  alacrity  I  had  not 
before  witnessed.  They  also  brought  us  a  joint  of  good  mutton  to 
put  in  our  wallet  We  trotted  on  until  we  came  to  a  town  standing 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.^  From  this  town  we  descended  down  to 
the  sandy  shore,  and  found  a  large  and  good  ferry-boat  ready  to 
waft  us  over  the  stream,^  whose  width  here  was  considerable.  We  ^ 
all  went  over  together,  men,  cattle,  and  baggage.  The  reminis- 
cences occasioned  by  the  motion  of  the  boat  brought  on  a  fit  of 
European  activity.  I  could  not  sit  still,  but  must  dimb  about, 
seat  myself  in  various  postures  on  the  parapet,  and  lean  over. 
The  master  of  the  boat  was  alarmed,  and  sent  a  steady  man  to 
hold  me  tight.  I  pointed  to  the  ornamented  prow  of  the  boat,  and 
assured  them  that  I  could  sit  there  with  perfect  safety,  and  to  prove 
to  them  how  commodiously  I  was  seated,  bent  my  head  and  body 
down  the  outside  of  the  boat  to  the  water's  edge ;  but  finding,  by 

*  The  yalley  of  the  Tsanpn,  or  Bnhmaputra. 

'  Probably  Ghaksam  Ghori  of  the  Pundit  of  1866. 

*  The  great  river  TsaDpu,  or  Brahmaputra. 


252  A  DAWDLING  COOK.  [Ch.  IV. 

their  renewed  instanoes  for  me  to  desist,  that  I  made  them  uneasy, 
I  went  back  to  my  place  and  seated  myself  quietly.  As  the  boat 
drew  near  shore  I  meditated  jnmping  out,  but  was  pulled  back  by 
the  immense  weight  of  my  clothes  and  dumsiness  of  my  boots.  I 
was  afraid  of  jumping  short  and  haying  the  laugh  against  me. 
Our  conductor  trotted  forward  to  a  village  standing  at  some 
distance  from  the  road,  and  ordered  out  fresh  cattle  for  us.  We 
changed  expeditiously ;  after  which  I  cantered  away  with  the  con- 
ductor, who  did  not  pull  up  till  we  arrived  at  the  end  of  our  day's 
journey.^ 

The  house  was  occupied  by  Tibet  military  going  to  Lhasa, 
to  be  examined  for  promotion,  but  there  was  a  vacant  upper  room 
for  us,  from  the  terrace  of  which  I  inspected  what  was  going 
forward  in  the  yard.  I  saw  the  soldiers,  their  bows  and  their  clumsy 
muskets.  The  principal  officer  had  a  strong  horse,  sumptuously 
furnished,  which  soon  after  our  arrival  was  led  out  for  him ;  and 
he  and  his  escort  set  forward.  Upon  this  we  went  down  to  a 
lower  room,  more  convenient,  and  near  the  cooking  place.  The 
postmaster  of  this  village  or  town  came  to  visit  us,  and  proved  to 
be  of  the  same  province  as  my  Munshi,  who,  upon  that  score,  invited 
him  to  dine  with  us.  He  was  a  grave,  well-behaved  man,  but  his 
company  was  not  very  entertaining.  At  night,  after  I  was  in  bed, 
I  heard  our  servant  chopping  away  and  preparing  things  for  our 
next  morning's  breakfast  until  a  very  late  hour.  To  answer  the 
preparations  he  made  he  ought  to  have  served  us  up  a  sumptuous 
repast.  I  could  not  help  laughing,  upon  seeing  provided  next 
morning  nothing  but  one  dish  of  minced  meat  and  some  wheat- 
flour  biscuits.  He  was  extraordinarily  slow  in  his  operations.  I 
have  afterwards,  at  Lhasa,  seen  him  the  whole  day  in  preparing  two 
common  dishes  for  the  evening;  and  when  we  hired  another 
servant,  who  was  to  go  on  errands  and  go  out  with  us,  and  give 
the  cook  time  to  get  through  his  vast  operations,  he  absorbed  him, 
too,  into  the  kitchen,  and  the  day  was  not  long  enough  for  both 
working  conjointly.  I  am  persuaded  if  we  had  hired  four  servants 
he  would  have  employed  them  all  from  morning  till  night  in  the 
kitchen,  preparing  his  two  or  three  nothings. 

The  following  day's  journey  was  rather  long.    It  was  divided 

1  Probably  Ghabonang  vUlago  of  the  Pundit  of  1866. 


Oh.  IV.]  THE  BIDE  TO  LHASA.  258 

into  four  stages.  At  the  end  of  the  first  stage,  I  was  struck  with 
the  sight  of  a  child  lying  neglected  and  apparently  in  convulsions. 
Groing  up  to  it,  I  found  that  the  sunheams  had  now  entered  the 
shed  where  it  lay,  and  were  shining  fiercely  upon  its  hce  and 
eyes.  I  brought  my  cushion,  and  placed  myself  so  as  to  intercept 
the  rays,  when  the  conYulsive  motion  ceased,  and  the  little  &ce 
assumed  a  serene  smile.  At  the  end  of  the  next  stage  I  do  not 
recollect  that  anything  remarkable  occurred.  I  saw  a  fat  country 
fellow  standing  before  a  magistrate  telling  his  story,  or  making 
some  complaint:  he  held  his  hat  in  his  hand,  and  was  scratch- 
ing his  head  as  naturally  as  countrymen  do  in  like  situations  in 
England.  The  third  stage  was  short.  My  Munshi  begged  of  the 
conductor  to  let  him  proceed  on  to  Litong,  the  close  of  a  day's 
journey,  without  changing  his  horse.  To  this  the  conductor 
assented ;  upon^  which  he  and  the  seryant  trotted  off.  He  was 
desirous  to  get  in,  in  time  to  see  after  horses  for  our  early 
departure  next  morning,  as  he  was  particularly  anxious  to  be  in 
Lhasa  the  next  day  before  noon.  Indeed,  he  seemed  to  consider 
that  absolutely  necessary,  and  that  if  we  did  not  appear  before  the 
great  maudarins  before  noon,  we  should  be  guilty  of  a  fault  which 
they  would  hardly  forgive.  I  rallied  the  notion  in  various  ways, 
but  in  vain.  The  Chinese,  certainly,  have  a  pernicious  dread  of 
their  manclarinH :  it  occasionally  upsets  their  senses. 

As  I  was  in  no  hurry,  I  determined  to  wait  for  the  conductor, 
with  which  he  seemed  pleased.  After  Munshi  was  off,  I  went 
into  the  house,  and  was  served  with  some  excellent  suchi  and 
parched  flour.  This  seemed  to  be  a  sort  of  religious  house.  I  saw 
no  fiamily,  but  a  great  masculine  woman  made  her  appearance  now 
and  then  before  the  door,  whom  I  took  to  be  a  nun.  She  might 
be  the  lady  abbess  for  aught  I  know.  There  were  whirligigs  set 
up  in  the  house,^  which  the  conductor  piously  twirled  as  he  passed 

'  These  whirligigs  are  oylinders  turn-  about  with  them,  and  are  almost  oon- 

ing  freely  on  an  axis,  within-side  are  stantly   taming ;    the  other   a   fixed 

seotenoes  and  prayers.     Turning  the  whirligig,  moving  on  a  vertical  axis, 

whirligig  is  equivalent  to  reciting  the  These  are  of  various  sizes,  some  as  big 

sentence,  and  is  a  substitute  for  it,  for  as  a  clock-case,  some  about  the  size  of 

the  use  of  those  who  are  so  ignorant  as  a  quarter  peck.    In  the  avenues  of  the 

not  to  be  able  to  recite.    They  are  of  temples  there  are  hundreds  of  them  in 

two  kinds :  one  a  hand  whirligig,  which  a  row,  which  good  souls  twirl  one  after 

the   pious   vulgar    perpetually    carry  the  other  as  they  pass  along.    Those 


254  THE  RIDE  TO  LHA8A.  [Ch.  IV. 

them.  I  do  not  know  whether  it  was  expected  of  me  to  twirl  these 
machines.  I  certainly  never  did  all  the  time  I  was  in  Tihet ;  for 
though  I  am  a  great  conformist  in  certain  ways,  take  me  in 
another  Une  and  I  am  a  most  obstinate  non-conformist,  and  wonld 
sooner  die  than  swerve  a  tittle. 

As  soon  as  our  horses  were  ready,  and  the  baggage  was  adjusted 
to  the  cattle,  my  gaide  and  I  set  forward  briskly.  We  tinkled  ^ 
oyer  the  stony  plain,  and  through  the  broad  and  shallow  streams  of 
water,  until  we  came  to  a  sort  of  rocky  hill,  which  we  must  ascend 
and  descend.  Here  the  guide  dismounted,  and  seemed  to  expect 
that  I  should  do  the  same ;  but  my  boots  had  hurt  my  heels,  and  I 
was  determined,  if  possible,  to  ride  over  this  hilL  Upon  coming  to 
bad  places,  he  two  or  three  times  looked  back,  and  intimated  to  me 
that  I  had  better  lead  my  horse.  I  still  persisted,  but  at  last,  in 
the  descending  part,  we  came  to  an  absolute  staircase.  The  guide 
looked  at  me,  and  smiled.  I  smUed  and  shook  my  head,  con- 
fessed myself  foiled,  and  dismounted.  When  we  had  gained  the 
level  plain,  we  again  pushed  on;  but  the  sun  was  set,  and  the 
shades  of  night  coming  on  before  we  could  reach  Litong.  Here 
I  found  Munshi  in  dole  and  wrath.  He  had  sent  out  the  servant, 
as  soon  as  they  arrived,  to  seek  for  the  man  whose  business  it 
was  to  provide  and  take  care  of  us.  He  had  been  out  above  an 
hour,  and  he  was  not  yet  returned.  I  had  none  but  the  old  rec^pt 
for  him — ^patience.  He  came  back  shortly  after,  and  informed  us 
that  the  said  man  happened  at  this  time  to  be  so  drunk  that  he 
could  neither  stand  nor  go.  This  was  a  great  mortification  to  my 
Munshi.  He  feared  we  shoxdd  be  ofif  late  the  next  morning,  and, 
in  truth,  the  sun  was  up  long  before  we  set  ofif. 

We  had  not  gone  many  miles  before  we  were  met  by  a  respectable 
person  on  horseback,  who  dismounted  and  saluted  me;  then,  mount- 
ing again,  rode  on  with  our  guide.  Upon  inquiry,  I  found  this  was 
a  person  sent  out  by  the  Grand  Lama  or  his  people,  or  by  the  Tibet 

who  use  the  hand  whirligigs  acquire  the  adopt  the  rosary,  as   it  would  he  a 

hahit  of  twirlini?  them  mechanically.  means  of  procuring  me  respect  and 

It  isthesame  with  the  chaplets  of  beads,  good  treatment  in  Bhutan  and  Tibet 

I  have  seen  a  man  with  his  hands  be-  But  this  was  one  of  the  points  in  which 

hind  him  regularly  shoving  on  his  beads  I  could  not  conform. — T.  M. 

with  his  thumb,  and  all  the  while  talk-  *  The  guide's  horse  has  a  bell  at  his 

ing  about  other  matters,  or  even  dis-  neck,  which  when  he  moves  keeps  up 

puting.    I  was  advised  in  Bengal  to  a  perpetual  tinkling.— T.  M. 


Ch.  IV.]  THE  PALACE  OF  POTALA.  255 

magistrate  of  Lhasa,  to  welcome  and  hoDonr  me,  and  conduct  me  to 
the  metropolis.  We  hurried  into  the  town  where  we  were  to  change 
horses,  but  our  haste  was  fruitless.  There  we  were  obliged  to  wait 
until  our  baggage  came  up  long,  long  after  us,  and  until  it  was 
adjusted  upon  fresh  cattle.  If  we  now  had  galloped  all  the  way  to 
Lhasa  the  sun  would  haye  been  in  the  south  before  we  could  haye 
been  in  the  august  presence  of  the  Tagin.^  This  was  exceeding 
discomfort  to  my  Munshi,  but  great  comfort  to  me.  I  much  dis- 
liked the  idea  of  hurrying  to  Lhasa,  and  without  any  kind  of 
refreshment  going  before  the  mandarins,  sweltering  and  heated,  my 
bootiS  hurting  me  eyery  step  I  set;  and  I  could  not  comprehend 
what  crime  it  was  for  trayellers  like  us  who  coxdd  not  command 
prompt  attendance,  arriying  an  hour  sooner  or  an  hour  later. 

As  there  was  no  use  in  hurrying  now,  we  proceeded  calmly  on. 
As  soon  as  we  were  clear  of  the  town,  the  palace  of  the  Grand 
Lama  presented  itself  to  our  yiew.  It  seemed  dose  at  hand,  but 
taking  an  eye  obseryation  upon  the  change  of  certain  angles 
as  I  adyanoed  eighty  or  one  hundred  paces,  I  sagaciously  informed 
my  Munshi  that  it  was  stiU  four  or  fiye  miles  ofif.  As  we 
approached,  I  perceiyed  that  under  the  palace  on  one  side  lay  a 
considerable  extent  of  nmrshy  land.  This  brought  to  my  mind 
the  Pope,  Home,  and  what  I  had  read  of  the  Pontine  Marshes.  We 
passed  under  a  large  gateway  whose  gilded  ornaments  at  top  were 
so  ill  fixed  that  some  leaned  one  way  and  some  another,  and 
reduced  the  whole  to  the  rock  appearance  of  castles  and  turrets  in 
pastry  work.'  The  road  here,  as  it  winds  past  the  palace,  is  royally 
broad;  it  is  leyel  and  free  from  stones^  and  combmed  with  the 

*  Tagin  means  great  ihrd.   It  is  an  When  the  mass  is  very  great  and 

appellation  given  to  high  mandarins  compact,  whatever  defects  there  may 

of  a  certain  rank  in  China.    At  Lhasa  be  in  the  detail,  the  effect  of  the  whole 

there  were  at  this  time  actually  in  office  is  always,  I  believe,  grand  and  imposing, 

only  two  Tagins. — T.  M.  This  is  the  case  with  the  palace  of  the 

'  The  least  deyiation  from  symmetry  Grand  Lama,  which  has  no  beauties  or 

and  correctness  in  certain  parts  of  arohi-  symmetry  in  detail,  but  as  a  whole  has 

teoture,  and  where  the  mass  of  building  a  striking  ftnd  grand  effect.    Even  the 

is  not  enormous,  soon  destroys  the  effect  Tuilleries,  than  which  when  examined 

of  the  most  magnificent  plans,  and  re-  pert  by  part  nothing  can  be  more  ugly 

daces  them  to  mere  gingerbread  build-  or  misshapen,  yet  yiewed  as  a  whole 

ings.    That  seyere  and  correct  accuracy  strikes  the  eye  as  a  majestic  mass.^ 

which  we  Europeans  luherit  from  the  x.  M. 
Greeks  is  unknown,  I  believe,  in  Asia. 


8Se  ABBIVAL  AT  LHASA.  [Ch.  TV. 

view  of  the  loft;  towering  palace,  which  forma  a  majestic  monntain 
ot  building,  haa  a  magnificent  effect.  The  road  abont  the  palace 
swarmed  with  monks ;  its  nooks  and  angles  with  beggars  lounging 
and  basking  in  the  bod.  This  again  reminded  me  of  what  I  have 
heard  of  Borne.  T&j  eye  was  almoet  perpetoally  fixed  on  the 
palace,  and  roving  otst  its  parts,  the  disposition  of  which  bmng 
iiiegalar,  eluded  my  attempts  at  analysis.    As  a  whole,  it  seemed 


PoTALA.    Tas  Paucb  o'  th>  Daui  Luu. 

(/rom  Kircher't '  China  niiulrata.'^ 

perfect  enoagh ;  bnt  I  could  not  comprehend  its  plan  in  detail. 
Fifteen  cs  twenty  minntes  now  brought  oa  to  the  entrance  of  the 
town  of  Lhasa. 

If  the  palace  had  exceeded  my  expectations,  the  town  as  lar 
fell  short  of  them.  There  is  nothing  striking,  nothing  pleasing 
in  its  appearance.  The  habitationB  are  begrimed  with  smnt 
and  dirt.  The  aTennes  are  fnU  of  dogs,  some  growling  and 
gnawing  bits  of  hide  which  lie  about  in  profusion,  and  emit  a 
chamel-honse  smell;  others  limping  and  looking  livid;  othwB 
ulcerated ;  othen  starred  and  dying,  and  pecked  at  by  the  ravena ; 
some  dead  and  preyed  upon.  In  short,  everything  seems  mean  and 
gloomy,  and  excites  the  idea  of  something  unreal.  Even  the  mirth 
and  laughter  of  the  inhabitaats  I  thought  dreamy  and  ghostly. 
The  dreaminess  no  doubt  was  in  my  mind,  but  I  never  could  get 


Oh.  IV.]  ARRIVAL  AT  LHASA.  257 

rid  of  the  idea ;  it  strengthened  upon  me  afterwards.  A  few  turns 
through  the  town  brought  us  into  a  narrow  by-lane,  and  to  the 
gate  of  a  courtyard,  where  we  dismounted,  and,  passing  through 
that  yard,  entered  another  smaller  one  surrounded  by  apartments. 
We  mounted  a  ladder,  and  were  shown  into  the  room  provided 
for  us. 


s 


S58  VISIT  TO  THE  MAKDABms.  [Oh.  Y. 


CHAPTEB  V. 

LHASA.* 

Our  first  care  was  to  provide  ourselves  with  proper  hats.  The 
General,  indeed,  had  given  ns  a  handsome  Ught  one,  but  his  was  a 
small  Ciceronian  head  (in  shape,  I  mean),  and  neither  I  nor  my 
Munshi  could  get  his  hat  on,  and  the  Munshi  informed  me  that 
if  it  was  enlarged  the  marks  of  alteration  would  render  it  unfit  to 
wear.  I,  indeed,  as  a  foreigner  might  wear  it  so,  but  he  as  a 
Chinaman  among  his  countrymen  would  not,  except  in  the  house. 
Notwithstanding  this,  he  afterwards  had  it  altered  into  an  excellent 
hat  for  himself,  and  wore  it  perpetually.  The  hatter  took  our 
measures  and  lent  us  two  hats  for  the  interim.  We  learnt  that 
this  was  the  time  of  reviewing  the  Chinese  troops.  There  was  a 
small  encampment  by  the  side  of  the  town,  where  the  mandarins  daily 
inspected  the  exercises.  The  great  men  were  still  in  their  tents  and 
would  not  return  to  their  tribunals  and  be  at  leisure  to  see  us  before 
the  evening.  Thus  the  load  of  guilt  which  pressed  so  heavy  on 
my  Munshi's  conscience  was  washed  away  with  a  single  word. 

I  v^as  sorely  afraid  lest  the  Tatar  mandarin  should  recollect 
having  seen  my  face  at  Canton,  or  should  recollect  my  name,  or 
remember  having  heard  of  an  Englishman  of  my  description, 
strangely  residing  at  Canton,  and  suspected  of  wanting  to  get  into 
the  country.    Besides,  he  had  Canton  servants  with  him,  who  were 
still  more  likely  to  have  seen  and  heard  of  me.    I  put  on  my 
China  spectacles  to  disguise  my  eyes  as  much  as  I  could,  and  a^way 
we  went  to  the  tribunals.    It  was  a  long  way  to  walk  with  a  sore 
heel.    I  was  very  much  heated.    I  inwardly  grumbled.    Coining 
into  their  presence  I,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  performed  the 
ceremony  of  ketese.    My  Munshi  was  a&aid  I  should  dislike  the 

*  The  Pundit  of  1866  reached  Lhasa  suRonnded  by  monntains.    It     ia    in 

on  January  12,  and  remained  until  29°  39'  17"  N.,  and  11,700  feet    above 

April  21.    He  says  that  city  is  two  and  the  gea,  according  to  the  Pundit, 
a  half  miles  in  circumference,  in  a  plain, 


Ch.  v.]  uncomfortable  lodgings.  259 

ceremony  ;  he  knew  how  averse  the  Europeans  are  to  bending^  bnt 
I  had  no  objection  whatever,  insomuch  that,  on  the  contrary,  I  was 
always  asking  when  I  conld  keiese  or  kneel ;  and  if  there  was  an 
option  between  one  kelese  and  three,  I  generally  chose  to  give  three. 
To  the  Tibet  mandarins  I  sometimes  knelt  down,  or  made  as  if  I 
knelt,  though  this  was  displeasing  to  my  Munshi.  He  wished  this 
mark  of  respect  to  be  paid  only  to  Ohinamen.  In  &ct,  the  com- 
mon Chinese  nse  no  ceremony  with  the  Tibet  mandarins.  They 
are  not  to  pay  them  the  due  reverence,  and  to  ojBfer  them  an  inferior 
kind  would  be  a  sort  of  insult.  I  being  indifferent  towards  either 
side  was  desirous  of  treating  both  as  equally  as  possible. 

There  was  no  danger  of  the  Tatar  mandarin  recognizing  my 
person.    The  old  dog  was  purblind,  and  could  not  see  many  inches 
beyond  his  nose.    They  asked  a  few  questions,  made  polite  inquiries 
after  my  health,  and  accommodations  on  the  road,  and  intimated  it 
was  they  who  had  provided  my  lodgings.    I  wish  they  had  omitted 
this  intimation :  it  meant  nothing,  being  mere  empty  words,  as 
they  had  no  concern  whatever  with  my  lodging  nor  with  the  meat 
and  rice  which  were  offered  me  upon  my  arrival.    AU  these  things 
were  provided  by  the  people  under  the  Grand  Lama  or  by  the 
Tibet  mandarins.    But  afterwards,  when  I  found  our  room  exces- 
sively cold  and  inconvenient,  and  was  unwell,  and  wished  to  change 
and  have  some  other  room,  which  could  have  been  done  without  any 
difficulty,  my  Munshi  thwarted  me  and  absolutely  refused.     The 
great  mandarins  had  given  us  this ;  to  change  would  offend  them  ; 
whereas  they  did  not  care  one  farthing  where  I  lodged,  provided  I 
paid  for  what  I  hired;  but  such  is  the  superstitious  dread  the 
Chinese  have  of  their  mandarins.     Our  room  was  large ;  had  two 
small  unpapered  windows  to  the  north  and  west;   no  sunshine 
entered  at  them :   in'  the  middle  of  the  roof  was  a  very  large 
aperture  (four  feet  square  or  more)  through  which  the  freezing 
wind  came  eddying  day  and  night.    I  was  obUged  to  spread  my  thin 
tedding  on  a  rongh,  stony,  uneven  floor — ground,  for  I  cannot  call 
it  a  floor.    There  were,  indeed,  two  stout  cushions  given  us,  but 
they  were  of  unequal  thickness.    I  did  not  know  how  to  adjust 
tuhem.    My  Munshi,  who  was  expert  at  these  little  operations,  had 
not  the  complaisance  to  teach  me  or  assist  me,  but  took  them  on  my 
first  rejection  for  his  own  bed,  though  his  bedding  was  much 

s  2 


260  DIFFICULTIES  IN  TALKING  CHINESE.  [Ch.  V, 

thicker  than  mine;  and  besides  that,  he  spread  it  on  his  large 
smooth  box,  helped  ont  and  lengthened  with  a  chair  or  other  con- 
trivance.   Neither  did  he  quickly  comply  with  my  request  of 
haying  proper  cnshions  made  for  me,  bnt  suffered  me  to  lie  in  tins 
uneasy  manner  many,  many  nights.    Eveiy  order,  every  transaction 
necessarily  passed  through  him.    He  begged  me  not  to  speak 
much  Chinese,  or  to  seem  to  know  the  characters ;  it  might  bring 
him  into  great  trouble.    I  thought  this  reasonable,  and  agreed  to 
it.     Consequently  from  the  first  everybody  addressed  themselves  to 
me  through  him ;  and  if  at  any  time  I  did  try  to  act  indepen- 
dently I  was  referred  to  my  Munshi,  and  b^ged  to  explain  to 
him.     I  certainly  spoke  Chinese  very  imperfectly,  nor  was  it  likely 
I  should  improve  if  nobody  would  converse  with  me.    I  was 
accustomed  only  to  the  Peking  pronunciation.     I  very  well  xmder- 
stood  what  the  mandarins  said,  but  the  common  vulgar  Chinese  at 
Lhasa,  speaking  the  Szechuen  dialect,  using  frequent  cant  phrases, 
provincialisms,  and  idiomatic  expressions,  pronouncing  rapidly  and 
slovenly,  how  could  I  possibly  understand  them  readily  ?  A  French- 
man or  other  European  will  accommodate  himself  to  a  foreigner ; 
will  repeat  a  phrase,  give  an  equivalent,  or,  according  to  his 
abilities,  explain  a  word.     Not  so  a  Chinaman ;  if  you  misunder- 
stand a  single  word  the  sentence  is  lost :  he  will  neither  alter  it  nor 
explain  it.     It  is  not  for  want  of  urbanity:  he  has  not  that 
custom :  he  immediately  concludes  that  there  is  an  invincible  bar 
to  your  conversing  with  him.    To  this  unaccommodating  way  was 
joined  the  unfounded  prepossession  that  I  was  almost  entirely 
ignorant  of  the  Chinese  language,  so  that  with  respect  to  speaking 
Chinese  I  laboured  under  great  disadvantages  at  Lhasa. 

My  Munshi  had  at  first,  in  a  peevish  manner,  declared  that  he 
could  not,  and  would  not  continue  to  teach  me  at  Lhasa :  he  was 
afraid.    I  took  him  at  his  word,  and  though  afterwards  we  had  good 
and  perfectly  safe  opportunities,  and  I  believe  that  he  was  desirous  <^ 
using  them  in  order  to  improve  himself  in  English ;  yet,  as  he  made 
no  overtures,  I  made  none,  and  during  the  whole  time  we  were  at 
Lhasa  we  scarcely  exchanged  a  single  word  in  Chinese,  or  ooirrezBed 
on  the  subject  of  that  language.     He  was  so  cross  and  unaocomxno- 
dating  and  ill  behaved,  that  I  avoided  all  conversation  with  hdm  as 
much  as  possible,  in  order  that  no  quarrel  might  ensue.    Wh«i  we 


Ch.  v.]  visit  to  the  TIBETAN  MNISTEBS.  2tfl 

changed  onr  lodging,  and  I  had  a  room  to  myself,  as  I  was  at  first 
ill  of  a  rheumatic  fever,  and  ate  nothing  scarcely,  we  were  separate 
the  whole  day,  and  I  afterwards  continued  the  custom  of  taking 
our  meals  separately.    We  lived  on  good  terms.    He  used  every 
evening  after  my  supper  to  come  into  my  room  and  sit  awhile  with 
me,  and  ask  me  to  explain  a  few  English  phrases  to  him,  which  I 
always  did  with  the  greatest  readiness.     I  read  Chinese  by  myself. 
He  saw  me  sometimes  turning  over  one  of  their  inconvenient 
dictionaries,  and  labouring  hard  for  what  he  could  have  furnished 
me  with  in  an  instant.    I  could  see  that  he  thoroughly  understood 
our  relative  situation,  my  reserve  and  alienation  ;  but  how  could  I 
subject  myself  to  the  humiliation  of  a  refusal  or  improper  answer  to 
'  a  request  that  I  had  morally  a  right  to  put  to  him  authoritatively  ? 
He  should  have  asked  me  whether  I  widied  to  continue  my  studies 
with  him.    The  smallest  concession  on  his  part  would  have  brought 
me  to  amicable  terms.    I  had  lent  a  little  Chinese  novel  to  a  China- 
man at  Giansu,  who  took  care  to  forget  to  return  it ;  and  though 
my  Munshi  wrote  to  him,  and  we  knew  that  the  letters  reached 
him,  he  had  the  incivility  to  keep  it,  and  not  answer  the  letters. 
This  was  a  great  vexation  to  me,  as  it  was  a  book  which  had  been 
recommended  to  me.    I  brought  it  with  me  on  purpose  to  read  it 
at  Lhasa.    It  would  have  amused  me,  and  improved  me  in  the 
Chinese  idiom.   I  had  no  other  familiar  work  with  me  but  what  I 
had  read  over  and  over  again. 

We  went  the  following  morning  to  pay  our  respects  to  the  two 

head  Thalungs  ^  in  their  tents.    We  sat  down  on  cushions  and 

drank  suehi.    They  asked  me  whether  our  lodging  was  convenient. 

This  was  a  good  opportunity  of  intimating  that  it  was  rather  cold, 

and  that  I  wished  to  hire  another.    They  made  some  civil  answer 

in  words,  of  course,  which  neither  bound  them  nor  me  to  anything, 

saying  I  had  better  rest  a  little  while ;  that  they  would  provide  me 

another,  and  pay  for  it.    I  wished  to  be  explicit  on  that  point,  and 

to  let  them  know  that  I  intended  to  pay  for  whatever  I  had ;  but 

fiomehow  my  Chinaman  was  backward  in  explaining  my  wishes, 

and  now  seemed  to  be  furnished  with  a  new  dread  of  changing 

-without  consulting  the  mandarins  and  magistrates,  though  I  am 

>  The  four  principal  Tibet  magistrateB  at  Lhasa  hare  the  title  of  Thalnng. 
3?hiB  word  is  used  both  by  the  natives  and  by  the  Ghineae. — ^T.  M. 


262  THE  MILITARY  MANDARINS.  [Cu.  V. 

sore,  from  the  Thalnng's  manner,  that  he  would  have  had  no  objeo- 
tion  to  my  hiring  a  lodging ;  only  thought  himself  bonnd  to  make 
a  fisdnt  offer  of  publicly  providing  eyerything  for  me  I  wanted. 

I  inquired  of  the  Thalung  when  it  would  be  proper  for  me  to 
salute  the  Grand  Lama.  He  saidi  had  betterfirst  rest  and  refresh 
myself  a  few  day&  This  was  very  agreeable  to  me.  I  was  muddled 
and  dirty.  My  fiMse  and  forehead,  haying  been  exposed  to  the  scorch- 
ing sun  during  our  eight  days'  journey  from  Giansu,  were  fiery  rod, 
particularly  on  the  right  side,  so  as  greatly  to  disfigure  me.  Besides, 
I  wanted  a  little  time  to  prepare  and  brush  up  my  presents.  We 
employed  part  of  the  interim  in  presenting  ourselyes  before  yarious 
mandarins  and  magistrates. 

At  two  or  three  miles'  distance  from  the  town  were  stationed 
soldiers  and  three  military  mandarins.      The  highest  of  them 
asked  the  question  whether  I  had  eyer  been  at  Canton.    I  said 
to  my  Munshi,   ''What  shall  I  say?"      He  answered  for  me. 
No ;  I  had  never  been  there.    I  was  inclined  to  speak  the  whole 
truth  from  the  first,  and  declare  myself  an  Englishman,  for  I 
had  been  guilty  of  no  offence;  but  Munshi  earnestly  dissuaded 
me  from  it   Perhaps  he  was  right.    The  second  of  these  said  mili- 
tary manclarins  was  of  the  same  rank  as  the  general  at  Giansa, 
and  was  a  relation  of  his.    He  was  very  civil  and  polite :  lie  invited 
me  to  sit  down,  and  ordered  tea  to  be  brought  me.     My  Munshi 
seemed  mad  as  the  devil  that  I  should  be  invited  to  sit  down  and 
he  not.    The  mandarin  was  inclined  to  converse  and  ask  ques- 
tions.    Munshi  gave  such  snappish  monosyllabic  answers  as  really 
alarmed  me.     I  could  not  have  thought  that  his  ill  temper  could 
so  entirely  get  the  better  of  him.    If  he  had  gone  there  alone  he 
would  not  have  sat  down.    I  was  a  foreigner,  appeared  as  a  respeci- 
able  character ;  was  his  superior  in  age ;  was  entitled  to  respect 
from  my  beard.     I  cannot  see  that  he  had  any  plausible  grounds  of 
o&nce  and  discontent.    I  only  presume  that  his  sudden  fit  of  rasfci- 
ness  and  ill  humour  was  occasioned  by  the  circumstance  I  meation, 
as  it  came  on  the  moment  I  was  seated.    I  took  no  notice  of  it  to 
him  then  nor  afterwards,  nor  he  to  me.    He  recovered  by  d^rees 
while  riding  home. 


Oh.  YI.]  'presents  FOB  TH£  DALAI  LAMA.  168 


OHAPTEB  VI. 

VISIT  TO  THB  GRAND  LAMA. 

Qbt  the  17tli  of  December,  181 1,  in  the  morning,  I  ascended  the 
moontain,  as  they  phrase  it,  to  salnte  the  Ghnnd  Lama  and  make 
my   offering.      I  had  but  a  trifle  to   present  him  with,  not 
mnch  more  than  a  third  part  of  the  fine  broadcloth  I  had  destined 
for  him,  and  that  portion  I  had  with  the  utmost  diffictdty,  and 
by  conyeying  it  secretly  into  my  Mnnshi's  box,  saved  from  the 
rapaciotisness  of  the  Bhntanese.     Two  pair  of  china  ewers  that 
I  meant  to  decorate  with  (artificial)  flowers,  and  present  him, 
were  nnfertnnately  left  behind  at  Griansn.    I  had  a  pair  of  good 
brass  candlesticks  which  I  had  cleaned  and  furbished  np,  and 
into  them  I  put  two  wax  candles  to  make  a  show.    To  speak 
the  truth,  these  candlesticks  belonged  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany.   They  were  what  were  lent  me  for  my  use  at  Oanton,  and 
upon  leaving  that  place  I  had  honestly  left  them  to  be  returned 
to  the  stores.    But  afterwards  my  fidthM  old  China  servant,  taking 
the  opportunity  of  a  parcel  that  was  sent  me  from  Canton  to  Cal- 
cutta, stowed  them  into  the  box  with  other  things  that  he  thought 
might  be  useful  to  me,  and  I,  finding  they  were  thus  forced  upon 
me,  carried  them  off  with  me  to  Lhasa  without  scruple,  and  I  am 
persuaded  that  afler  this  my  acknowledgment,  the  Honourable 
Company  will  not  only  acquit  me  of  fraudulent  practices,  but  will 
be  very  well  pleased  with  what  has  befiEkllen  their  candlesticks,  and 
with  the  high  and  honourable  use  I  made  of  them.    I  had  intended 
to  offer  the  Grand  Lama  a  sum  of  silver  in  the  coin  of  Tibet,  but 
was  told  that  the  small  sum  I  could  offer  him,  unless  it  was  in 
foreign  coin,  would  not  make  a  handsome  appearance.    Luckily,  I 
had  with  me  thirty  new  bright  dollars  which,  with  as  many  pieces 
of  zinc,  I  carried  about  with  me  for  the  purpose  of  showing  galyanic 
experiments.     Upon  showing  these  at  Giansu  the  Chinamen  were 
eager  to  buy  them  as  belt  ornaments,  and  I  found  that  a  few  of 


264  THE  PALACE  OF  POT  ALA.  [Oh.  VI. 

them  wotdd  be  oonsidered  as  a  handsome  offering  to  the  Grand  I^ma. 
Aooordinglj  I  allotted  twenty  for  that  purpose,  and  eox  for  the 
Tf-ma-fii,  or  Hn-lu-tu,  which  are  names  given  to  the  head  magis- 
trate, or  king,  as  he  is  sometimes  called,  of  Tibet.^  This  Tf-mn-fa 
is  a  Lama:  he  ranks  above  the  Tajin  or  head  Chinese  manda- 
rins, though  they  take  every  opportnnity  of  encroaching  upon  his 
dignity,  and  in  &ct  treat  him  as  an  eqnal.  Besides  these,  I  had 
some  genuine  Smith's  lavender  water,  with  which  I  filled  two  large 
handsome  phials  for  the  Grand  Lama  and  one  for  the  Tf-mu-fo. 
I  had  also  a  good  store  of  Nankin  tea,  which  is  a  rarity  and  a 
delicaoy  at  Lhasa^  and  not  to  be  bought  there. 

We  rode  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  which  the  palace^  is  built, 
or  out  of  which,  rather,  it  seems  to  grow ;  but  having  ascended  a  few 
paces  to  a  platform,  were  obliged  to  dismount.    From  here  to  iiie 
hall  where  the  Grand  Lama  receives  is  a  long  and  tedious  ascent. 
It  consists  of  about  four  hundred  steps,  partly  stone  steps  in  the  lodkj 
mountain,  and  the  rest  ladder  steps  from  story  to  story  in  the  palace. 
Besides  this,  from  interval  to  interval  along  the  mountain,  wherever 
the  ascent  is  easy,  there  are  stretches  interspersed,  where  the  path 
continues  for  several  paces  together  without  steps.    At  length  we 
arrived  at  the  large  platform  roof,  off  which  is  built  the  house,  or 
hall  of  reception.    There  we  rested  awhile,  arranged  the  presents, 
and  conferred  with  the  Lama's  Chinese  interpreter.    This  inter- 
preter was  not  an  absolute  stranger  to  us ;  he  had  been  to  visit  us  at 
our  lodging.    He  was  a  Chinaman  by  the  father's  side  and  a  Tibe- 
tan by  the  mother's.    He  had  resided  many  years  at  Peking  and  in 
Chinese  Tatary.     He  spoke  many  languages,  but  having  never 
learned  to  read  or  write  in  any  one,  was  utterly  unlearned.    He 
was  a.  strange,  melancholy  man,  severe  in  his  manner,  and  extraor- 
dinarily sparing  in  his  words,  except  when  he  made  a  narration  or 
continued  speech,  and  then  he  was  equally  profuse.    Whether  it 
was  avarice  or  poverty  I  do  not  know,  but  notwithstanding  he  had  a 

>  This  is  the  Gesab  Bimboch^  of  Tankyaling,  Ghamnlmg,  and  Chuchiir 

Bogle  and  Turner,  and  the  Nomen-  ling ;  but  that  now  he  is  chosen  ftooL 

khan  of  Huo.    The  Pundit  of  1866  says  the  Dibong  monastery  only.   (Bee  note 

tbAt  this  dignitary  was  formerly  chosen  at  p.  130.) 

from  among  the  Lamas  of  four  monas-  *  Potala. 
teries  round  Lhasa,  called  Kontyaling) 


Cb.  VI.]  AUDIENCE  OF  THE  DALAI  LAMA.  265 

good  place,  he  seemed  straitened  in  his  circuuistanoes.  They  say 
he  lavished  his  money  on  women;  for  though  he  had  the  title  of 
Lama  and  wore  the  lama  dress,  he  was  not  bonnd  to  celibacy.  He 
had  a  wife  and  son.  • 

The  Tf-mn*fQ  was  in  the  hall  with  the  Qrand  Lama.  I  was 
not  informed  of  this  until  I  entered,  which  occasioned  me  some 
confosion.  I  did  not  know  how  much  ceremony  to  go  through 
with  one  before  I  began  with  the  other.  I  made  the  due  obeisance, 
touching  the  ground  three  times  with  my  head  to  the  Grand 
Lama,  and  once  to  the  Ti-mu-fu.  I  presented  my  gifts, 
delivering  the  coin  with  a  handsome  silk  scarf  with  my  own  hands 
into  the  hands  of  the  Grand  Lama  and  the  Tf-mu-fu.  While  I 
was  ketesing,  the  awkward  servants  contrived  to  let  fall  and  break 
the  bottle  of  lavender  water  intended  for  the  Ti-mu-fu.  Of  course, 
I  seemed  not  to  observe  it»  though  the  odoriferous  stream  flowed 
dose  to  me,  and  I  could  not  help  seeing  it  with  the  comer  of  my 
eye  as  I  bowed  down  my  head.  Having  delivered  the  scarf  to  the 
Grand  Lama,  I  took  off  my  hat,  and  humbly  gave  him  my  clean- 
shaved  head  to  lay  his  hands  upon.  The  ceremony  of  presentation 
being  over,  Munshi  and  I  sat  down  on  two  cushions  not  far  from  the 
Lama's  throne,  and  had  mchi  brought  us.  It  was  most  excellent, 
and  I  meant  to  have  mended  my  draught  and  emptied  the  cup,  but 
it  was  whipped  away  suddenly,  before  I  was  aware  of  it.  The  Lama's 
beautiful  and  interesting  £ace  and  manner  engrossed  almost  all  my 
attention.  He  was  at  that  time  about  seven  years  old :  had  the 
simple  and  unaffected  manners  of  a  well-educated  princely  child. 
His  face  was,  I  thought,  poetically  and  affectingly  beautiful.  He 
viras  of  a  gay  and  cheerful  disposition ;  his  beautiful  mouth  perpetu- 
ally unbending  into  a  graceful  smile,  which  illuminated  Ids  whole 
countenance.  Sometimes,  particularly  when  he  had  looked  at  me, 
his  smile  ahnost  approached  to  a  gentle  laugh.  No  doubt  my  grim 
beard  and  spectacles  somewhat  excited  his  risibility,  though  I  have 
afterwards,  at  the  New  Year's  festival,  seen  him  smile  and  unbend 
freely,  while  sitting  myself  unobserved  in  a  comer,  and  watching 
his  reception  of  various  persons,  and  the  notice  he  took  of  the  strange 
variety  of  surrounding  objects.  We  had  not  been  seated  long  before 
he  put  questions  to  us  which  we  rose  to  receive  and  answer.    He 


2^  AUDIENCE  OF  THE  DALAI  LAHA.  [Gh.  VI. 

addressed  himself  in  ihe  Tibet  tongne  to  the  Chinese  interpreter ;  the 
Chinese  interpreter  to  my  Mnnshi ;  my  Munshi  to  me  in  Latin. 
I  gave  answer  in  Latin,  which  was  oonrerted  and  conyeyed  back  in 
the  same  manner.  I  had  been  long  accustomed  to  speak  Latin  with 
my  Munshi.  There  was  no  sentiment  or  shade  of  sentiment  we  could 
not  exchange.  Thus,  though  the  route  was  circuitous,  the  communi- 
cation was  quick,  and  the  questions  and  answers  delivered  with  an 
accuracy  which  I  have  reason  to  believe  seldom  happens  in  Asia 
when  interpreters  are  employed.  The  Lama  put  the  usual  questions 
of  urbanity.  He  inquired  whether  I  had  not  met  with  molesta- 
tions and  difficulties  on  the  road ;  to  which  I  promptly  returned  the 
proper  answer.  I  said  I  had  had  troubles,  but  now  that  I  had  the 
happiness  of  being  in  his  presence,  they  were  amply  compensated. 
I  thought  of  them  no  more.  I  could  see  that  this  answer  pleased 
both  the  Lama  and  his  household  people.  They  thus  found  that  I 
was  not  a  mere  rustic,  but  had  some  tincture  of  civility  in  me.  A 
small  present  of  dried  fruits  was  brought  and  set  before  me.  They 
motioned  to  my  servant  to  take  it  off,  and  we  withdrew.  For 
withdrawing  it  is  not  the  custom  to  use  any  ceremony,  other  than 
not  turning  the  back  upon  the  prince  until  after  two  or  three  steps, 
and  even  this  is  not  essential,  I  believe.  Upon  going  out  of  the 
hall  into  the  area  the  interpreter  bid  us  sit  down  a  moment  under 
the  gallery  while  he  went  back  to  speak  to  the  Qrand  Lama.  He 
returned,  and  asked  me  if  I  had  anything  particular  to  say  to  the 
Lama.  I  answered,  I  had  a  request  to  make.  I  begged  of  the 
Grand  Lama  to  give  me  books  respecting  his  religion  and  ancient  his- 
tory, and^to  allow  one  of  his  learned  lamas  who  undefstood  Chinese 
to  assist  and  instruct  me.  Whether  my  Munshi  was  not  earnest 
enough,  or  whether  it  was  the  fault  of  the  interpreter,  or  whether 
it  was  that  the  Lama  or  his  people  did  not  like  to  comply  with  this 
request,  I  know  not ;  but  the  Lama  afterwards  presented  me  with 
what  he  told  me  was  the  most  essential  part  of  their  prayers  and 
meditations.  I  could  get  no  other  books,  nor  anyone  to  explain  to 
me  and  instruct  me.  The  answer  the  Lama  sent  me  was  raiher 
indefinite.  At  present  he  had  no  proper  copy  of  what  books  he 
wished  to  giye  me.  He  would  have  one  prepared  and  delivered  to 
me  afterwards.  I  was  extremely  affected  by  this  interview  with  the 
Lama.    I  could  have  wept  through  strangeness  of  sensation.  I  was 


Ch.  VI.]  VISIT  TO  A  MAD  MANDABIN.  267 

absorbed  in  reflections  when  I  got  home.  I  wrote  this  memoran- 
dum (see  great  book).^ 

I  strove  to  draw  the  Lama ;  and  though  yery  inexpert  with  the 
pencil,  I  produced  a  beautiful  bee,  but  it  did  not  satisfy  me.  I 
drew  another  which  I  could  not  make  handsome,  yet  there  was  in 
some  respects  a  likeness  in  it  which  the  other  wanted.  From  the 
two  together,  and  instructions  from  me,  a  skilful  painter  might 
make  a  good  picture  of  him. 

I  had  now  a  great  many  applications  made  to  me  as  a  phy- 
sician. As  I  took  no  fee,  people  came  with  the  most  trifling  com- 
plaints, and  some  inyented  a  complaint,  perhaps  merely  to  have  a 
lounge  and  see  me.  It  was  great  trouble.  I  was  obhged  to  give 
every  one  something,  and  the  making  up  of  so  much  physic  was  a 
heavy  burden  upon  me.  There  was  a  great  mandarin  who  had  been 
long  unweU,  and  unable  to  discharge  the  duties  of  his  office.  He 
was  a  little  insane,  his  servants  said.  They  wished  me  to  see  him. 
I  found  him  not  a  little  insane,  but  good  humoured.  He  was  un- 
combed, xmwashed,  beshmed  with  his  own  spittle  and  dirt,  storming 
and  scolding,  and  almost  intractable.  I  was  very  ready  to  attend  him 
as  physician.  If  I  could  make  a  cure  of  him,  my  Munshi  said,  it 
would  be  nothing  to  ask  him  to  get  me  admitted  to  Peking :  he  was 
of  a  great  and  rich  family.  His  servants  also  said,  if  I  could  cure 
him  I  might  have  whatever  I  asked  for,  and  a  grand  Chinese  title 
bestowed  upon  me;  but  first  it  was  necessary  to  ask  the  Tatar 
mandarin  whether  he  approved  of  my  being  called  in.  Now,  the 
Tatar  dog  and  the  crackbrained  mandarin  were  bitter  enemies. 
The  Tatar  wished  for  nothing  better  than  the  death  of  the  other. 
He  was  applied  to.  He  said,  as  I  did  not  profess  myself  certain  of 
curing  him,  it  was  better  not  to  make  the  attempt.  He  neither 
gave  his  consent  nor  refused  it,  I  believe;  so  the  mandarin's 
servants  begged  of  me  to  visit  their  master  by  night.  They  would 
send  me  a  horse  and  guide.  The  mad  mandarin  seemed  rather  to 
take  a  liking  to  me ;  he  had  me  sit  down,  ordered  tea  for  me,  told 
me  long  unintelligible  stories,  and  when  I  oiBfered  to  go  was  uneasy, 

>  From  great  book :   Itst  Dec,  17th  Very  happy  to  hare  Been  him  and  his 

of  tenth  Moon.  This  day  I  sainted  the  blessed  smile.    Hope  often  to  see  him 

Grand  Lama !    Beautiful  youth.    Face  again. — T.  M. 
poetically  affecting;  could  have  wept. 


268  ATTENDANCE  ON  A  MAD  MANDABIN.  [Ch.  VI. 

and  bid  me  sit  awhile.  Sometimes  lie  broke  out  into  exclamations 
against  his  servants,  and  ordered  them  out  of  the  room.  They 
treated  him  very  ill,  I  thought ;  they  langhed  at  him  in  his  hear- 
ing, and  made  various  irritating  speeches  to  him  for  the  pleasore, 
it  seemed,  of  hearing  him  storm.  Sometimes  he  broke  ont  into 
inyectives  and  abuse  against  the  Tatar,  and  ordered  his  imaginary 
attendants  to  take  him  and  kill  him.  I  found  he  had  not  a  single 
trusty  servant  or  attendant  about  him.  His  nearest  friends  were 
foolish  young  serving  men.  It  was  difficult  to  give  him  physic ; 
and  the  ignorance  and  stupidity  of  these  men  made  it  the  more  so. 
If  he  had  had  an  old  woman  about  faim  I  could  have  managed 
better.  After  I  had  attended  him  two  or  three  times,  his  people 
thought  him  better.  I  thought  so  too :  he  was  more  composed,  and 
his  eyes  were  less  wild.  I  gave  him  then  a  few  grains  of  calomel, 
but  I  could  not  make  out  f]X)m  his  stupid  people  whether  he  had 
taken  it  or  not.  They  said  he  had,  but  as  no  effect  ensued,  I  did 
not  believe  them.  I  gave  him  another  small  dose,  and  upon  that 
his  mouth  was  affected.  To  see  what  might  be  the  cause,  I  made 
them  give  him  physic  in  my  presence,  and  found  that  they  suffered 
him  to  retain  a  part  in  his  mouth  and  leave  the  rest  at  the  bottom 
of  the  cup.  A  few  grains  of  calomel  rubbed  against  the  palate 
with  the  tongue  will  quickly  excite  soreness  of  the  gums.  His 
gums  swelled  and  bled  a  little,  and  he  had  a  slight  salivation*  He 
was  cast  down,  and  much  quieter  than  before.  His  servants  were 
now  a&aid  of  giving  him  more  physic.  I  did  not  press  it.  I 
still  continued  to  visit  him — by  stealth,  if  in  the  daytime — stepping 
into  another  near  house  first,  and  sending  to  inquire  if  any  of  the 
Tatar's  spies  were  about  the  premises,  waiting  till  they  were  gone, 
when  an  accident  put  an  end  to  my  attendance. 

A  Chinaman  under  confirmed  dropsy  had  applied  to  me.  I 
administered  calomel,  and  two  or  three  small  doses  of  digiinlia. 
The  swelling  somewhat  subsided;  his  health  and  spirits  were 
better. 

One  morning  his  boy  came  to  our  lodging,  just  as  we  were  going 
out,  and  said  something  to  our  servant,  who  did  not  explain  it  to 
me.  I  thought  he  came  to  inquire  whether  there  was  any  physic 
for  his  master,  as  he  was  an  idle  lad,  frequently  moving  backwards 
and  forwards  between  my  lodging  and  his  master's.    I  was  that 


Oh.  VLJ  death  OF  A  PATIENT.  269 

day  going  out  to  the  military  show  I  have  before  mentioned,  to  see 
plays  acted.    There  was  a  large  temple  at  the  station,  dedicated 
to  the  God  of  War ;  and  after  the  Chinese  exercises  were  over,  it 
was  cnstomary  to  make  certain  thank-offerings  in  this  temple,  and 
act  plays  before  it.    It  was  also  considered  as  a  sort  of  farewell  to 
that  portion  of  Chinese  soldiers  whose  time  of  foreign  service  was 
expired,  and  who  were  in  a  few  days  to  leave  Lhasa  in  order  to 
retnm  to  their  native  country.    Here  I  stayed  all  day,  some  of  the 
minor  mandarins  inviting  me  and  my  Mnnshi  to  partake  of  their 
dinner,  which  was  excellent.     When  I  came  home  in  the  evening  I 
was  taken  nnwelL    I  was  feverish,  and  had  pain  in  my  limbs. 
I  had  been  too  much  exposed  to  the  cold,  and  had  sat  vnth  my  ears 
uncovered  the  whole  day.    I  was  obliged  to  go  to  bed.    Presently 
after  comes  the  sick  man's  boy  again,  begging  me  to  go  to  his 
master.  Now  I  heard  what  I  ought  to  have  been  told  in  the  morning. 
The  sick  man  had  that  morning  found  himself  much  better,  and 
had  indulged  himself  in  eating  an  enormous  quantity  of  beef.    This 
beef  disagreed  with  him,  and  he  was  in  great  pain  and  uneasiness. 
This  was  the  story  of  the  morning.     If  the  case  had  been  stated 
to  me  I  should  have  gone  to  him  immediately.     Now  I  was  in 
bed,  ill.     It  was  night  and  cold.    The  very  action  of  rising  and 
dressing  myself  in  my  cold  exposed  room  would  be  hazardous  for 
me.    What  to  do  I  Aid  not  know.   To  go  to  him  was  impossible;  to 
give  him  anything  strong  without  first  seeing  him  I  dared  not.     I 
considered  that  above  twelve  hours  had  elapsed  since  he  had 
eaten  this  beef.    I  thought  a  moderate  dose  of  calomel  was  the 
best  thing  I  could  send  him.    I  had  no  rhubarb  by  me.    The  next 
morning,  as  the  barber  was  shaving  my  Munshi,  I  being  still  in 
bed,  he  informed  us  the  man  was  dead.    I  was  very  much  vexed, 
though  I  had  nothing  on  my  consdenca     I  did  not  inquire  into 
particulars.     I  believe  he  had  risen  in  the  night  and  the  exertion 
was  too  great  for  his  strength. 

When  I  got  up  I  went,  by  appointment,  to  visit  the  crazy 
mandarin,  calling  first  at  the  house  of  rendezvous.  The  master 
of  it,  who  was  one  of  my  patients,  said  nothing  about  his  com- 
plaints. I  understood  him  at  once.  He  did  not  wish  to  have 
any  more  of  my  physic.  This  was  very  welL  He  was  above  sixty, 
paraljrtic,  growing  blind,  and,  in  short,  having  all  the  infirmities 


270  CONFESSIONS  OF  THE  BiAD  MANDARIN.  [Ce.  VI. 

of  age  coming  on.  Such  a  patient  oonld  do  me  no  credit,  nor 
could  I  do  him  much  aerrice.  This  man  had  a  beard  of  abont  an 
inch  and  a  half  long,  consisting  of  abont  twenty  or  thiriy  hairs. 
He  was  never  a  minute  without  feeling  and  adjusting  this  trifling 
appendage  to  his  chin.  He  had  a  comb  perpetually  suspended  at 
his  breast,  which  every  now  and  then  he  applied  and  drew  through 
the  spare  hairs  without  any  resistance.  These  short  hairs  would 
no  more  entangle  than  the  five  fingers  of  his  hand ;  but  this  was 
his  constant  occapation.  He  must  have  thought  me  very  neglectful 
of  my  long  tangling  beard.  He  never  saw  me  touch  it,  except  by 
accident ;  and  as  for  comb,  I  did  not  carry  one  about  me.  After  I 
had  sat  here  a  little  while,  one  of  the  crazy  mandarin's  servants  came, 
and  said  I  could  not  see  his  master  that  morning ;  the  head  servant 
was  out,  and  the  others  dared  not  act  without  his  being  present. 
This  again  I  understood,  and  was  glad  to  find  an  opporiiunity  of 
discontinuing  my  visits.  Though  I  was  afterwards  sent  for  when 
the  effects  of  the  calomel  in  his  mouth  were  over,  and  they  found  he 
was  not  hurt,  yet  I  never  would  go  again.  He  needed  physic; 
but  he  had  no  friend,  no  good  attendant.  They  neither  knew 
what  to  give  him  to  eat  nor  drink,  nor  how  to  administer  the 
most;  trifling  medicine.  About  a  month  after  I  heard  he  gradually 
grew  worse  and  worse,  came  to  the  last  stage  of  derangement,  and 
not  long  after  died.  His  guilty  conscience  accused  him  during 
his  illness.  In  his  mad  fits  he  confessed  the  bribes  he  had  taken, 
mentioned  the  sum,  and  offered  to  restore  it.  As  the  story  of 
these  bribes  is  rather  curious,  and  the  events  connected  with 
them  had  considerable  influence  at  Lhasa,  I  shall  relate  the  whole 
according  to  the  best  information  I  could  obtain. 


Ch.  VII.]  AN  UPRIGHT  MAGISTRATE.  271 


CHAPTEB  Vn. 

STORY  OF  THE  RIOT  —  EXECUTION  OP  A  GOOD  MANDARIN. 

The  year  before  I  yisited  LhaBSy  a  Chinese  soldier  had  a  dispute 
with  a  lama  about  the  right  to  pass  the  bridge  without  paying 
toll.  The  lama  was  the  bridge-keeper,  and  refused  to  let  him  pass 
— ^pushed  him  back,  perhaps.  A  scuffle  ensued.  The  Chinaman  drew, 
his  sword  and  stabbed  the  lama,  so  that  he  died  of  his  wounds. 
Now,  to  kill  a  lama  is  heinous  in  Tibet.  Murmurs  and  dis- 
content arose;  and  one  evening  a  yery  large  body  of  lamas 
(who  were  joined  by  others)  proceeded  to  a  street  where  lived 
a  number  of  Chinese  shopkeepers,  broke  down  and  dismantled 
about  forty  shops,  and  laying  hold  of  one  unfortunate  Chinaman, 
who  for  some  cause  or  another  had  neglected  to  get  out  of  the  way, 
stoned  him  to  death.  The  matter  was  now  serious  indeed.  The 
murder  of  a  Chinaman  by  a  Tibetan  might  call  down  heavy 
vengeance  from  the  Chinese  government.  The  Tibet  mandarins 
dreaded  having  the  afiGur  represented  to  the  Emperor.  They 
exerted  themselves  to  bribe  the  great  mandarins  to  hush  it  up. 
They  succeeded  with  the  three  principal  ones — with  the  Tatar,  with 
the  afterwardfl  cmy  mandarin,  and  mth  another  since  deposed  and 
degraded— but  fiedled  with  the  fourth.  This  fourth,  according  to  the 
Chinamen,  had  an  excellent  character ;  was  the  only  upright  man- 
darin in  Lhasa.  He  was,  they  say,  a  really  learned  man,  and  was 
raised  to  his  rank  solely  by  his  merit.  This  mandarin  declared  that 
a  riot  of  this  nature  could  not  be  passed  over  unrepresented  to  the 
Emperor  in  other  than  its  true  colours.  The  Tibet  magistrates  had 
hired  or  trepanned  a  poor  fellow  to  have  his  head  shaved  and 
assume  the  di^ss  of  a  lama,  and  to  be  given  up  as  the  culprit  who 
had  occasioned  the  death  of  the  Chinaman,  When  this  supposi- 
tious culprit  was  brought  before  the  upright  mandarin,  he  declared 
it  was  a  mockery,  and  refused  to  go  through  the  business.  He 
would  not  sign  his  name  to  the  papers  that  the  other  three  sent  to 


272  A  JUDICIAL  MUBDEB.  [Ch.  VU. 

Peking,  but  declared  that  he  woxdd  stand  alone  and  himself  represent 
the  matter  &ithMlj  to  the  Emperor.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  This 
was  dangerous  to  the  others.  Would  they  oome  over  to  the  side 
of  truth  ?  No ;  the  bribes  prevailed,  and  they  conspired  against  the 
life  of  this  upright  magistrate.  They  suborned  some  wretched 
Chinaman  to  depose  that  he  lent  out  the  public  money  at  interest. 
He  was  treasurer.  They  accused  him  to  the  Emperor  in  the  most 
aggravating  manner,  as  if  he  was  the  occasion  of  discontents  at 
Lhasay  and  they  stopped  and  suppressed  the  letters  he  sent  to 
Peking.  It  is  said  the  Tatar  was  the  chief  instigator,  and  per- 
suaded the  other  two  to  lend  their  names.  The  Emperor  in  wrath, 
sent  an  order  for  his  immediate  execution.  The  soldiery  and  the 
Chinamen  were  in  consternation.  He  was  beloved,  they  say,  and 
universally  esteemed.  They  petitioned  for  him  in  a  body,  but  in 
vain :  he  fell  a  sacrifice  by  the  hands  of  the  executioner  to  intrigue 
and  revenge.  At  Lhasa  these  scandalous  proceedings  of  the  man- 
darins greatly  alienated  the  reverence  of  the  Tibet  people  for  the 
Chinese  and  Chinese  government.  It  is  said  they  were  much  more 
humble  in  presence  of  the  Chinese  a  year  or  two  ago  than  now. 
This  humility  and  reverence  may  be  brought  back  again,  I  suppose ; 
no  doubt  it  fluctuates,  and  depends  on  the  character  of  the  resdent 
mandarin.  The  Emperor  was  soon  informed  of  his  error.  The 
Szechuen  Tsinto  delivered  in  memorials  on  the  subject  The 
Lhasa  mandariufl  were  accused.  One  was  soon  deposed  and  ordered 
to  Peking,  where  he  was  utterly  disgraced  and  stripped  of  his 
honours  and  titles,  and  reduced  to  the  level  of  a  common  China- 
man. The  Tatar  was  under  continual  apprehensions  of  beiog 
served  the  same.  He  had  other  charges  against  him  besides  this  of 
disguising  the  riot  and  fEtlsifying  the  character  of  the  beheaded 
mandarin.  He  often  bewailed  his  fate,  and  his  apprehensions  were 
not  groundless ;  for  the  second  or  third  month  of  my  residence  at 
Lhasa  came  the  decree  ordering  him  to  give  up  his  seals  of  office  as 
soon  as  the  mandarin  should  arrive  who  was  to  supersede  him,  and 
then  to  go  immediately  to  Peking.  The  Chinese  did  not  conceal 
their  satisfaction  at*  this  decree ;  they  hope  and  expect  he  will  be 
disgraced  and  degraded  as  soon  as  he  appears  before  the  Emperor. 
The  above  is  the  account  given  by  the  Chinese  and  collected  by 
my  Munshi.    The  story  was  related  to  me  somewhat  differently 


Oh.  VII.]        BAD  CHARACTER  OF  CHINESE  AT  LHASA.  273 

by  Tibetans,  of  whom  I  afterwards  made  inqnirieB.  They  stated  the 
dispute  not  to  be  about  a  bridge,  but  about  something  else  that  the 
Chinese  soldier  demanded,  and  for  which  he  could  show  no  licence. 
They  said  that  it  was  notoriously  true  that  the  executed  mandarin 
lent  out  the  public  money,  and  they  belieyed  that  the  after  depo- 
sition of  the  second  mandarin  was  not  occasioned  by  the  steps  they 
had  taken  to  get  him  condemned.  Both  these  accounts  may  be 
true  in  the  essentials.  The  executed  mandarin  very  likely  lent  out 
the  public  money  at  interest,  and  yet  his  fault  was  aggravated  to 
the  Emperor,  because  he  would  not  sign  his  name  to  their  fictitious 
account  of  the  riot.  The  Tibetans  speak  less  unfayourably  of  the 
Tatar  than  the  Chinese  do.  He  is  impartial,  they  say,  in  little 
causes  and  disputes  between  a  Chinaman  and  a  Tibetan.  This 
conduct  would  naturally  gain  him  the  ill-will  of  the  Chinese — who, 
being  the  master  nation,  no  doubt  wish  to  be  on  the  right  side  in 
all  appeals — apd  the  good-will  of  the  Tibetans.  The  Chinese  say, 
he  is  severe  and  harsh  with  them,  and  favours  the  Tibetans,  and 
there  are  stories  that  justify  this  accusation  of  excessive  severity, 
whether  Chinese  or  Tibetan.  I  never  heard  anyone  speak  posi- 
tively well  of  him,  or  deny  that  he  was  a  bad  man.  From  every- 
thing I  heard  I  could  safely  draw  this  conclusion :  that  the  great 
mandarins  at  Lhasa  were  generally  rogues  and  scoundrels. 

Some  say  it  was  these  transactions  that  first  unsettled  the  senses 
of  the  mandarin,  who  afterwards  grew  crazy.  He  alluded  to  them 
in  his  illness,  and  was  at  bitter  enmity  with  the  Tatar.  He  abused 
him  to  his  face  when  officially  visited  by  him,  and  behind  his  back 
also.  I  have  myself  heard  him  more  than  once.  I  have  mentioned 
before  that  he  stated  the  sum  he  had  received  in  silver : ''  I  had  but 
800  taels ;  here,  take  them  back,"  he  frequently  exclaimed.  His 
share  of  the  hush  money,  they  say,  was  300  taels,  and  three 
valuable  cap-button  jewels.  Lhasa  being  a  miserable  place  to  live 
in,  for  a  great  mandarin  to  be  sent  there  is  considered  a  sort  of 
banishment,  and  there  seldom  come  any  except  culprits.  The 
Tatar  was  a  culprit  at  Canton.  His  successor,  I  hear,  is  likewise 
from  Canton,  and  has  there  been  guilty  of  some  fault,  though  the 
Chinese  give  him  a  good  general  character.  The  crazy  mandarin 
was  a  culprit.  After  he  became  insane,  and  grew  worse  and  worse, 
the  others  advised  the  Emperor  of  it,  and  asked  leave  for  him  to  go 


274  CHINESE  OFFICIALS  AT  LHASA.  [Ch.  VH. 

homa  The  Emperor  answered,  it  was  sham  madness:  he  only 
was  uneasy  at  being  separated  so  long  from  his  family,  and  anxious 
to  get  home ;  that  he  had  not  yet  expiated  his  offence,  and  should 
stay  three  years  longer.  The  answer  aniyed  a  few  days  after  the 
poor  man  was  dead. 

It  is  very  had  policy  thns  perpetually  to  send  men  of  bad 
character  to  gorem  Tibet.  It  no  doubt  displeases  the  Grand  Lama 
and  Tibetans  in  general,  and  tends  to  prevent  their  affections  from 
settling  in  feyour  of  the  Chinese  goyemment.  I  cannot  help 
thinking,  from  what  I  have  seen  and  heard,  that  they  would  view 
the  Chinese  influence  in  Tibet  overthrown  ynthout  many  emotions 
of  regret ;  especially  if  the  rulers  under  the  new  influence  were  to 
treat  the  Ghrand  Lama  with  respect,  for  this  is  a  point  in  which 
these  haughty  mandarins  are  somewhat  deficient,  to  the  no  small 
dissatisfaction  of  the  good  people  of  Lhasa.  I  myself  have  heard 
Lhasa  men  inveigh  against  them  for  their  disrespectful  deportment 
before  him. 

The  Tatar  mandarin,  hearing  that  a  great  many  Chinamen 
came  to  me  for  medical  advice,  signified  his  displeasure  to 
his  people;  and  though  he  did  not  forbid  anyone  to  come, 
many  were  thus  deterred,  to  my  great  relief;  for  now  only 
such  came  as  had  any  real  complaint  sufficient  to  justify  them. 
My  Tibet  patients  increased,  and  I  was  very  successful,  particularly 
in  coughs,  indigestion,  and  slight  disorders  of  the  eyes.  Numbers 
of  the  monks  are  afflicted  with  indigestion  and  disorders  of  the 
alimentary  canal,  occasioned,  as  they  themselves  know,  by  feeding 
principally  on  parched  barley  flour.  This  parched  barley  flour  they 
moisten  in  their  cups  with  stichi,  make  up  into  a  dough  cake,  and 
thus  eat  it  in  its  crude  state.  A  large  quantity  of  it,  I  know  by 
experience,  is  difficult  to  digest ;  besides,  what  the  poor  people  get 
is  often  made  of  bad  and  blighted  barley,  and  is  doubly  injuriona 
Disorders  in  the  eyes  are  very  frequent  in  Lhasa.  Some  attribute 
them  to  the  cold  winds,  and  to  remaining  too  long  in  the  temples 
I  think  there  is  some  other  cause :  something  in  the  water  or  in 
the  salt  they  use. 


Ch.  VIIL]  VISITED  BY  SPIES.  276 


CHAPTER  VIIL 

RESIDENCE  AT  LHASA. 

We  were  not  many  days  in  Lhasa  before  I  found  we  had  spies  about 
ns.  One  day  came  several  Chinamen  from  the  tribunals,  and  among 
them  a  little  mandarin.  He  was  vastly  civil,  vastly  inquisitive. 
One  begged  me  to  write  a  sentence  for  him  in  my  character,  which 
I  willingly  did.  They  made  Munshi  go  over  the  whole  story; 
where  he  came  from,  and  what  places  he  had  passed  through.  As 
soon  as  they  were  gone  I  said  they  were  spies ;  and  the  next  day 
the  little  mandarin  came  again,  and  put  more  questions  to 
Munshi,  and  confessed  he  was  sent  by  the  Tatar.  Afberwards 
there  used  to  come  people,  one  man  at  a  time,  of  evenings. 
Munshi  received  them  in  his  room,  while  I  sat  quiet  in  mine. 
They  would  stay  a  most  unreasonable  time,  and  at  coming  and 
going,  as  if  by  mistake,  open  my  door,  and  take  a  survey,  to  see  if 
I  conspired  with  anyone  of  nights.  They  never  found  anyone  in 
my  room ;  my  patients  I  always  bid  come  by  day,  and  nobody  else 
at  that  time  visited  me.  I  always  knew  by  the  opening  of  my 
door  what  sort  of  man  Munshi  had  with  him.  Certainly  my  bile 
used  to  rise  when  the  hounds  looked  into  my  room.  Sarcastic 
speeches  in  English  and  Latin  came  to  my  tongue's  end,  but  I  was 
not  sufficiently  master  of  Chinese  to  turn  them,  without  being 
gross.  It  was  better  for  me,  perhaps,  to  say  nothing.  When  I 
observed  to  my  Munshi,  **  You  have  had  a  dpy  with  you  this  evening," 
he  generally  allowed  it  was  true ;  but  some  of  them,  he  said,  came 
with  firiendly  intentions,  or  simply  to  chat.  I  begged  of  him  to 
beware  of  all  night  friends  that  stayed  an  unreasonable  time.  I 
believe  he  was  very  cantiom 

The  Tatar  mandarin  detested  the  Europeans.  They  were  the 
cause,  he  said,  of  all  his  misfortunes.  He  frequently  betrayed  his 
apprehensions  of  me.  Sometimes  he  said  I  was  a  missionary,  and 
at  other  times  a  spy.    '^  These  Europeans  are  very  formidable ;  now 

T  2 


276  SUBJECTED  TO  INTERROGATORIES.  [C3h.  VIIL 

m 

one  man  has  come  to  spy  the  oonntry  he  will  inform  others. 
Numbers  will  oome,  and  at  last  they  will  be  for  taking  the  conntiy 
from  ns."    Though  I  passed  for  a  Calcutta  man,  we  could  not 
conceal  that  Calcutta  (in  Bengal)  was  under  the  English.    Inge- 
likus  (English  kingdom)  was  a  detestable  sound  in  his  ear&     The 
bright  comet  which  had  appeared  for  so  many  months  was  con- 
nected with  my  coming,  and  foreboded  something  bad,  he  thought. 
He  inquired  of  the  Lhasa  astronomers  whether  it  was  visible  in 
my  country;  they,  either  from  ignorance  or  designedly,  answered 
it  was  not.     This  information,  I  suppose,  took  a  little  weight  off 
bis  mind.     A  story  got  about^  and  came  to  our  ears  more  than 
once,  that  we  were  both  of  us  to  be  examined  by  torture.    Though 
I  never  for  a  moment  apprehended  being  put  to  the  question,  yet 
the  word  was  unpleasant,  and  it  proved  with  what  ill-will  and 
jealousy  we  were  viewed  by  one,  at  least,  of  the  great  mandarins. 
The  other  Tajin,  we  were  told,  sometimes  joined  with  the  Tatar  in 
his  invectives  against  the  Europeans,  and  his  suspicions  of  us,  and 
sometimes  softened  his  observations.    The  Tatar  would  have  seen 
me  executed  with  the  greatest  pleasure,  I  be  ieve;  and  the  other 
would  have  looked  on  without  objection  or  remorse.     The  third 
mandarin  (a  great  rogue)  declared  his  opinion,  sometimes,  that  we 
were  not  well  treated  to  be  thus  examined  and  cross-examined ;  for 
my  Munshi  had  been  several  times  before  the  Tajin  to  be  interro- 
gated, though  always  with  the  appearance  of  civility ;  and  after 
some  days  a  paper  was  brought  and  shown  him  for  his  approval, 
.containing  the  substance  of  his  answers,  his  declaration  of  who  he 
was,  and  where  he  had  been.    This  was  to  be  sent  to  the  Emperor. 
I  being  a  foreigner  the  interrogations  did  not  come  directly  to 
me,  but  my  name  and  declaration  of  myself  were  included  in  them. 
Thus  we  were  announced   to  the  Emperor.    Various  were  the 
reports  as  to  the  wording  of  this  communication ;  some  said  it  "was 
a  simple  statement ;  others  without  aggravation ;  others  said  that 
Munshi  was  denounced  as  having  left  his  country  and  fled  to 
foreigners,  and  conspired  with  them.    The  fault  they  could  lay 
hold  of  was  his  having  left  Canton,  and  gone  to  a  foreign  kingdom 
vrithout  leave.    This  in  strictii^ss  is  an  offence,  but  the  magnitude 
of  it  depends  upon  the  good  or  ill-will  of  the  mandarins  who  take 
cognizance  of  it    It  is  committed  by  thousands  yearly,  and  Hie 


Ch.  Vra.]         HOPES  OF  CONTINUING  THE  JOURNEY.  277 

mandarina  wink  at  it ;  but  they  have  a  rod  in  their  hands,  which 
they  can  use  if  they  think  fit.  The  mandarin  at  Giansu  spoke  of 
this  emigration  as  a  thing  of  oonrse,  and  that  oonid  not  be  avoided. 
China  was  overstocked  with  men;  employment  full,  and  people 
would  go  where  they  conld  get  a  livelihood.  If  the  mandarinfl  at 
Lhasa  had  been  good-natured,  this  flying  the  kingdom  would  not 
have  been  brought  into  question.  Munshi  might  have  been 
suffered  to  go  back  with  me,  with  orders  to  return  to  Canton,  or  we 
might  .both  have  had  our  routes  assigned,  through  Szechuen  to 
Canton,  for  me  to  proceed  from  Canton  to  Calcutta.  The  second 
Tajin  mentioned  this  sometimes  in  his  conversations  with  Munshi. 
He  said,  "  You  had  better  not  go  back  by  Calcutta,  and  over  the  sea." 
Munshi  confessed  he  had  great  horror  of  the  sea,  and  should 
prefer  going  immediately  to  his  own  country  through  Tibet ;  but 
he  had  promised  the  Lama  (meaning  me)  to  come  and  return  with 
him.  These  were  the  conditions :  how  could  he  leave  the  Lama  to 
go  back  alone?  The  mandarin  said,  the  Lama  might  go  by 
Canton  likewise.  ^'But,"  says  Munshi,  ''he  is  a  foreigner;  I 
thought  it  was  contrary  to  hy  ^  (custom)  for  a  foreigner  to  enter 
China."  ''Oh,''  says  the  mandarin,  "that  is  nothing;  that  can 
easily  be  got  over."* 

Thus  I  had  hopes  of  being  invited  (or  ordered)  to  return  by 

China ;   their  jealousy,  I  hoped,  might  lead  them  to  wish  me  not 

againtovisitthepass;sofStan:norreturn  by  Nepal    I  was 

asked  sometimes  by  Chinamen  whether  I  should  return  by  Szechuen, 

and  my  Munshi  had  that  question  often  put  to  him.      Some 

thought  I  should  return  that  way;  others  the  way  I  came.    I 

always  answered  cautiously :   "  Szechuen !  oh,  that  is  a  long  way 

about,  and  I  am  a  foreigner ! "    For  we  could  not  always  tell 

who  were  spies  and  who  not;  nor  was  it  easy  to  penetrate  into 

what  the  mandarins'  real  intentions  and  wishes  were.    They  might 

have  information  from  Canton,  from  the  missionaries  or  others, 

that  I  had  been  there,  for  the  purpose  of  entering  China ;  and  their 

civil  speeches  might  be  a  snare  laid  for  me.    And  here  I  must 

observe  how  unfortunately  things  turned  out  for  me.    To  proceed 

>  By,  approved  oflage,   rites,  &o. —      enough.    It  ib  only  the  Europeans  that 
T.  M.  are  strictly  barred  out.— T.  M. 

*  The  Asiatics  enter  China   easily 


278  APPBEHENSIONS  OF  DANGEB.  [Ch.  VIII. 

to  Lhasa  with  doBign  of  getting  into  China  was  not  altogether  a 
hopeless  errand.  If  there  were  many  chanoes  against  me,  there  were 
some  for  me.  (jh>od-natured  mandarins  ;  success  in  administering 
medicine  to  some  great  personage ;  the  introdaction  of  ihe  vaccine ; 
fftvotir  with  the  Grand  Lama;  a  douceur  to  some  merchant  or 
petty  officer,  and  permission  to  travel  with  the  Tibet  merchants  to 
Soling  ^ — ^manoeuvres,  may  he  imagined,  which  would  have  favoured 
my  design,  and  which,  though  not  very  probable,  were  possible.  I 
was  never  confident  of  success.  I  had  sufficient  hopes  to  make  the 
journey  seem  not  unreasonable,  and  I  ventured  the  trial. 

The  reports  of  the  manner  in  which  he  was  mentioned  to  the 
Emperor,  though  uncertain,  made  my  Munshi  very  uneasy.  He  tried 
to  get  a  sight  of  the  recorded  copy  of  the  letter,  but  was  unable.  If 
he  really  was  represented  as  a  runaway,  associating  himself  with 
foreigners,  a  decree  might  come  ordering,  or,  at  least,  authorizing, 
his  execution.  Nor  did  he  think  it  at  all  impossible  that  I  might 
have  the  same  fsAe.  It  would  be  strange  for  a  foreigner  to  come  to 
a  place  by  permission,  and  afterwards,  without  having  committed 
any  ofifence,  to  be  punished  in  that  manner.  But  the  Tatar  was  a 
strange  man  ;  had  already  at  Lhasa  done  strange  things ;  not  only 
the  persecution  and  execution  of  the  upright  mandarin,  but  many 
other  unreasonable  actions.  He  hated  the  English  and  all  that  were 
in  any  way  connected  with  them.  If  he  had  the  power  put  into 
his  hands,  who  could  say  that  he  would  not  use  it ;  and  whaii 
resource  could  I  have?  All  this  was  very  true,  and  very  un- 
pleasant. 

I  never  could,  even  in  idea,  make  up  my  mind  to  submit 
to  an  execution  with  firmness  and  manliness.  The  sight  of  the 
despotic  pomp  of  mandarins  at  Canton,  where  I  was  perfectly 
secure,  has  almost  turned  me  sick.  What  I  read  of  their  absolute 
power,  not  only  in  China,  but  in  various  Asiatic  coimtries,  baa 
always  appalled  me.  I  put  myself  in  imagination  into  the  situation 
of  the  prisoner  accused ;  I  suppose  myself  innocent ;  I  look  round ; 
I  have  no  resource,  no  refuge ;  instmments  of  torture,  instruments 
of  execution  are  brought  by  florid,  high-cheeked,  busy,  grinning, 
dull-hearted  men  ;  no  plea  avails ;  no  kind  judge  to  take  my  part, 
as  in  England,  but,  on  the  contrary,  because  I  am  accused  (and 

*  Sluing. 


ch.  vm.j 


APPBEHENSIONS  OF  DANGER. 


!B79 


perhaps  by  my  judge)  I  am  presmned  guilty.  They  haiehly  and 
inequitably  examine,  not  to  discover  whether  I  be  guilty  or  not, 
but  in  order  to  force  out  the  conclusion  that  I  am  guilty.  I  am 
before  evil-minded  men,  void  of  conscience,  who  proceed  according 
to  the  forms,  and  violate  the  spirit  of  justice — no  honest  jury,  who 
will  incline  to  mercy  when  the  man's  character  is  good,  and  when 
the  imputed  crime  is  not  heinous  in  its  own  nature,  but  only  by 
the  accidental  regulations  of  society.  If  one  is  before  a  generous- 
minded  man,  who  is  wantonly  exercising  his  power,  one  may 
appeal  to  what  is  noble  in  his  nature,  and  excite  a  flame  that  will 
dissipate  his  malice  and  dark  suspicions;  but  these  evil-minded  men, 
who  outwardly  are  perfect  politeness,  and  inwardly  are  perfect 
selfishness, have  no  touchwood  in  their  heart;  nothing  for  the  spark 
to  catch  hold  of;  one  may  as  well  strike  fire  against  the  barren  sand 
as  appeal  to  their  hearts.  This  friendlessness,  this  nothingness  of 
the  prisoner  is  what  sickens  me  to  think  of.^  I  had  rather  be 
eaten  up  by  a  tiger  than  fiskll  into  such  a  situation  and  be  con- 
demned. I  own  I  push  this  dread  too  &r.  Death  is  death ;  the 
form  ought  not  to  make  so  great  an  impression;  but  this  super- 
stition, to  which,  perhaps,  my  mind  is  by  its  natural  texture  prone, 
has  grown  upon  me  by  reading  and  meditation.  I  have  often  striven 
to  rectify  my  sensations,  often,  often,  at  Lhasa ;  but  the  associations 
are  too  strong  to  be  thoroughly  disengaged,  though  I  hope  and 
believe  I  can  so  far  master  them  as  to  be  able  to  submit  to  any  £ftte 
without  acting  like  a  coward.  I  mention  my  weakness  in  order  to 
point  out  that  the  occurrences  at  Lhasa,  those  which  I  have  already 


'  There  are  two  other  ideas  which 
aggravate  the  uDeasineas.  First,  the 
idea  of  possible  loopholes  to  escape  at, 
which,  when  tried,  all  fail,  and  yot  can- 
not be  given  np,  but  still  present  them- 
selves to  the  mind  as  possible ;  as  when 
a  child  is  detained  by  an  ill-natured, 
grown-up  person  in  order  to  be  terrified, 
in  a  place  with  many  outlets ;  he  sees 
the  way  to  escape  and  cannot  give  up 
the  idea.  He  creeps  to  a  door;  the 
other  is  looking  out  of  a  window,  or 
pretending  not  to  think  of  the  child ; 
but  in  a  moment  with  his  long  legd 
fitalks  up  to  him,  and  bars  his  exit  with 


his  hand  against  the  child's  breast.  At 
another  time  he  is  absolutely  on  the 
threshold,  almost  firee — he  is  pulled 
back  by  the  coats.  As  often  as  he 
tries  to  escape,  so  often  are  his  hopes 
dashed,  and  still  the  fictitious  security 
and  carelessness  of  the  other  delude 
him.  Secondly,  the  idea  of  the  apparent 
folly  of  losing  his  life  in  this  manner 
may  have  been  no  folly.  Balancing 
the  object  against  the  probable  danger, 
it  may  have  been  a  fair  venture;  but 
those  who  regret  his  loss  will  never 
think  so.  This  he  knows,  and  the  idea 
is  vei7  painful. — T.  M. 


280  ALTERCATION  WITH  A  PATIENT.  [Ch.  VIU. 

mentioned,  and  others  which  will  hereafter  appear  in  this  narrative, 
were  sufficient  causes  of  uneasiness  to  me.  I  did  not  enter  upon 
my  journey  without  some  apprehensions  of  danger.  Bhutan  was 
dangerous.  Those  who  ought  to  know  declared  they  would  not, 
upon  any  account,  trust  themselyes  into  the  hands  of  the  Bhutaneee 
in  the  manner  I  was  going  to  trust  myself.  These  declarations 
made  an  impression  on  me.  I  balanced,  I  examined  in  my  mind 
over  and  oyer  again  what  the  danger  was.  I  concluded  there  was 
some,  but  not  sufficient  to  justify  me  in  abandoning  my  object, 
which  was  a  moral  view  of  China ;  its  manners ;  the  actual  d^ree 
of  happiness  the  people  enjoy ;  their  sentiments  and  opinions,  so  bi 
as  they  influence  life ;  their  literature ;  their  history ;  the  causes  of 
their  stability  and  vast  population ;  their  minor  arts  and  con- 
trivances; what  there  might  be  in  China  worthy  to  serve  as  a 
model  for  imitation,  and  what  to  serve  as  a  beacon  to  avoid. 

The  unpleasant  reports  and  consequent  uneasiness  I  have  been 
describing  belong  to  all  that  period  of  our  residence  at  Lhasa,  firom 
a  few  days  after  our  arrival,  to  the  receipt  of  the  Emperor's  answer 
to  the  mandarins'  report  of  us.  I  shall  now  go  back  and  narrate  in 
order  such  other  events  as  occurred  worthy  of  notice. 

I  had  at  my  first  coming  signified  that  I  gave  my  advice  and 
medicines  gratis  in  all  cases  except  for  certain  specified  diseases; 
for  these  I  would  be  paid  twenty  coins.    This  I  let  them  suppose 
was  on  account  of  the  deamess  of  the  medicines  to  be  used  in 
these  cases.     I  had  but  my  sitting,  sleeping,  and  eating  room 
to  receive  my  patients  in,  and  they  came  at  all  times  in  the 
morning.    Some  applied  with  whom  I  began  a  course.     They 
did  not  pay  me  the  first  day.     I  supposed  they  had  not   the 
money  ready  in  their  pockets.     But  after  two  or  three  days, 
finding  nothing  forthcoming,  upon  my  explicitly  declaring  that 
I  had  not  changed  my  plan,  they  dropped  off.     One  man,  after 
three  or  four  days,  brought  me  three  coins  wrapped  up   in  a 
piece  of  paper.     This  I  refused,  telling  him  he  knew  it  was  not 
according  to  my  conditions.   He  remonstrated,  saying  he  would  pay 
me  as  his  case  proceeded ;  that  it  was  very  hard  to  pay  before-hand. 
I  said  I  did  not  take  money  for  the  cure,     I  would  have  twenty       . 
coins  first ;  cured  or  not  cured,  it  was  the  same.    He  asked  me  if  I       J 
was  certain  I  could  cure  him.   I  said  I  was  not  Then  he  continued 


Ch.  Vni.]  ALTERCATION  ,WITH  A  PATIENT.  281 

his  remonstrance  in  a  tone  of  mnrinur  and  dissatisfaction  which 
began  to  be  very  disagreeable.  I  told  him  I  had  no  ways  injured 
him ;  if  he  thonght  fit  to  be  off  he  was  welcome  to  the  physic  he 
had  taken.  I  should  not  receive  anything  for  it.  I  did  not  at  all 
wish  for  patients  of  that  sort.  He  might  go  to  some  other 
physician,  and  act  as  if  I  was  not  at  Lhasa.  No :  he  wished  to  go 
on  with  my  medicines ;  bnt  I  was  very  hard.  The  more  gentle 
and  forbearing  I  was,  the  more  impertinent  he  grew.  He  began  to 
thmnp  the  table  and  pnsh  the  money  towards  me,  appealing  to 
other  Chinamen  who  were  now  come  in,  and  who  were  listening 
to  the  dialogue.  My  Mnnshi  was  growing  angry.  So  was  I. 
At  last  he  struck  or  pushed  the  table  with  a  violence  that  endangered 
the  oversetting  a  box  containing  phials  of  medicine,  and  various 
pills.  I  could  bear  it  no  longer.  I  snatched  up  his  dirty  paper 
of  money,  flung  it  out  of  the  door,  and  bid  him  go  after  it.  He 
turned  pale  with  anger;  he  advanced  towards  me  in  a  menacing 
manner.  I  was  on  my  legs  in  a  moment  and  fronted  him  firmly. 
I  told  him  if  he  came  near  me  with  his  insolence,  by  heaven  1 1  would 
knock  him  down.  I  believe  I  spoke  English  or  Latin  in  my  anger; 
but  he  pretty  well  understood  me ;  he  faltered,  and  was  glad,  I 
beUeve,  to  have  the  other  Chinamen  interfere.  One  laid  hold  of 
him,  another  fetched  him  the  money.  The  most  respectable  among 
them  came  to  me,  begged  me  to  be  pacified  and  to  sit  down,  which 
I  did.  The  man  poured  out  a  torrent  of  abuse  against  me  and  my 
Munshi,  very  little  of  which  I  understood.  They  soon  had  him 
out  of  the  room.  As  he  passed  my  window  he  renewed  his  abuse, 
and  dropped  a  word  or  two  about  going  to  the  mandarin.  But  in 
this  my  Munshi,  who  was  now  completely  angry,  meant  to  be 
beforehand  with  him. 

I  afterwards  found  that  my  conduct  was  considered  as  very 
bold ;  to  fling  a  Chinaman's  money  out  of  the  door :  I  not  being 
a  Chinaman.  My  Munshi  did  not  blame  me:  he  said  it  was 
going  too  fiir.  I  said  I  had  borne  him  with  the  greatest  patience 
and  good  humour,  but  the  more  I  forbore  the  more  insolen  the 
grew.  It  was  not  in  a  European's  nature  to  forbear  further 
than  I  did.  I  do  not  think  that  my  boldness  (if  boldness  it  was, 
for  really  I  saw  none  in  it)  did  me  any  harm.  The  story  was 
soon  known  to  all  the  Chinamen  in  Lhasa,  I  suppose ;  and  I 


282  NEW  LODGINGS.  [Gh.  VHI. 

have  heard  one  tell  it  to  another  adrerting  to  me  with  marks  of 
respect.  Those  who  were  eye-witnesses  clearly  saw  that  I  was  not 
afraid  of  the  man,  but  should  give  him  as  good  as  he  brought,  if  he 
had  the  insolence  to  touch  me ;  and  they  certainly  did  not  think 
the  less  handsomely  of  me  for  that.  I  never  afterwards  had  any 
fracas  at  Lhasa  with  any  man,  Chinese  or  not. 

The  next  morning  my  Munshi  went  to  complain  of  him  at  the 
tribunal  The  sub-mandarin  said  it  was  too  small  an  offence  to  be 
punished;  that  he  would  admonish  the  man  privately,  and  order  him 
to  come  and  ask  our  pardons.  Whether  ordered  or  not  the  man 
never  came,  nor  was  I  at  all  desirous  that  he  should.  I  saw  no 
more  of  him. 

A  soldier  and  his  wife  occupied  two  rooms  contiguous  to  oura ; 
his  time  was  expired,  and  he  was  one  of  the  party  about  to  return 
to  China.     We  agreed  to  take  these  two  rooms  as  soon  as  he  went, 
and  after  some  altercation  with  the  woman  of  the  house  (who  was 
a  cross-patch),  and  a  reference  to  the  Thalung,  we  hired  them  at 
the  same  easy  rent  as  the  soldier  lived  under,  viz.  four  coins 
(28.  8(2.)  per  month.     The  whole  building,  in  h/ot,  belonged  to  the 
magistrates,  only  the  woman  who  had  the  care  and  management  of 
it  had  the  privilege  of  taking  a  small  rent.     We  continued  on  our 
great  room  as  hitherto,  and  which  we  afterwards  exchanged  for  a 
smaller  one,  close  to  the  two  others,  to  the  mutual  accommodation 
of  the  woman  of  the  house  and  ourselves.     My  Munshi  and  I  had 
now  each  of  us  a  room  to  ourselves,  but  I  was  obliged  for  a  long 
time  still  to  he  on  the  hobbly  floor,  as  my  bedst-ead,  though  boarded 
in  the  middle,  was  now  built  up  with  mud,  which  dried  very  slowly, 
and  I  was  afraid  to  lie  in  it  while  any  dampness  remained.     I 
opened  a  window  to  the  south,  which  my  predecessor,  from  some 
superstitious  motive,  had  blocked  up.     The  sun  now  for  a  month  or 
two  shone  in  upon  me  good  part  of  the  day ;  but  afterwards,  as 
the  spring  advanced,  coming  into  the  south  higher  and  higher,  his 
rays  fell  shorter  and  shorter  on  my  floor ;  and  before  April  arrived, 
as  the  wall  was  thick  and  the  window  had  a  small  penthouse  over 
it,  he  entirely  ceased  to  appear  for  a  single  moment  in  my  room. 
I  was  unwell  during  the  time  our  new  rooms  were  getting  ready. 
Munshi  and  the  servant  were  very  busy  for  two  or  three  days,  plaster- 
ing and  papering  up  the  rents  and  bad  places.     As  they  prepared 
the  room  for  me  so  I  took  it,  never  afterwards  making  any  altera- 


Oh.  Vni.]  UNABLE  TO  TAKE  OBSERVATIONS.  283 

tioBS  or  adorning  it,  thongh  it  was  still  in  a  miserable,  tattered  con- 
dition. Not  so  my  Mnnshi :  he  embellished  his  in  yarious  ways, 
nntil  it  reminded  me  of  a  little  milliner's  back  parlour.  A  glass  here, 
something  suspended  by  a  ribbon  there ;  oyer  all  a  watch,  seal,  and 
ribbon  hung  gracefully  on  a  little  peg.  The  Chinese  are  very  fond 
of  little  decorations,  and  yery  dexterous  in  disposing  them  nattily. 
I  had  a  small  sextant  with  me,  and  an  excellent  timepiece  watch, 
and  I  much  wished,  now  the  sky  remained  clear  and  cloudless, 
to  take  a  few  observations ;  but  the  aperture  of  my  window  was 
too  small,  and  I  was  too  subject  to  interruption.  Our  lodging 
had  indeed  a  commodious  flat  roof,  where  I  could  have  taken 
them  easily  enough ;  but  it  would  have  been  madness  in  me  to 
suffer  anyone  to  see  me  looking  at  the  heavens  through  an  astro- 
nomical instrument.  I  might  perhaps  in  the  night  time  have 
observed  some  of  the  stars  without  being  observed  myself,  but  it 
was  hazardous,  besides  I  was  now  very  ill  with  the  acute  rheu- 
matism, fits  of  which  came  on  every  evening,  and  lasted  until  towards 
morning.  There  was  nothing  I  could  do  for  geography  that  would 
compensate  the  risk  I  must  run.  It  was  not  for  the  sake  of  finding 
the  latitude  and  longitude  of  Lhasa  that  I  wished  to  take  observa- 
tions, for  they  are  pretty  well  ascertained ;  but  for  the  sake  of  regu- 
lating  my  watch,  and  having  a  point  to  set  off  from,  m  caae  I 
should  go  towards  Szechuen,  whereby  I  might  determine  nearly  the 
situation  of  some  of  the  principal  towns  on  the  road. 

In  the  daytime,  when  these  rheumatic  fits  had  subsided,  my 
general  health  seemed  pretty  good,  and  I  trusted  for  many,  many 
days  that  my  constitution  would  of  itself  shake  off  the  complaiat ; 
but  I  was  forced  at  last  to  have  recourse  to  medicine.  *  Camphor 
and  opium  pills  seemed  greatly  to  relieve  me.  Antimony  I  thought 
serviceable.  I  took  a  dose  of  Dover's  powders,  after  which  I  was 
much  better ;  yet,  I  do  not  know  whether  to  attribute  my  amend- 
ment to  the  medicine,  as  it  operated  under  circumstances  peculiarly 
unfavourabla  It  is  highly  proper  after  taking  Dover's  powders  to 
drink  plentifully  of  diluting  liquor.  I  took  my  dose  before  the  fit 
came  on,  and  after  a  short  time  went  to  bed.  I  ordered  my  half- 
caste  Tibet  lad  to  bring  me  rice  grueL  He  brought  me  two  or 
three  small  basins  fall ;  after  which  he  absolutely  and  obstinately 
refused  to  obey  my  calls.  I  repeated  these  calls  twenty  or  thirty 
times,  raising  my  voice  until  I  could  be  heard  over  all  the  neigh- 


284  TB0UBLB8  WITH  SERVANTS.  [Ch.  Vm. 

bonrhood.  I  began  now  to  be  in  a  perspiration ;  partly  from  anger 
I  belieye,  and  partly  from  the  medicine.  My  Monshi  thrnsts  his 
head  in  at  my  door  with  a  cross  and  discontented  countenance,  and 
tells  me,  with  a  peevish  accent^  that  the  servant  said  I  had  had 
enough !  I  told  him  I  had  taken  medicine,  and  judged  I  had  not 
drank  enough ;  that  I  was  in  a  perspiration,  and  loath  to  get  up ; 
but,  if  I  was  forced  to  it,  I  would  give  the  fellow  a  good  beating. 
"  You  can't  strike  anyone  here  in  Lhasa."  "  Can't  ?  Oh,  we  will 
see." — *•  You  can't,"  with  angry  accent.  "  But  I  will  beat  him." — 
*'  You  can't."  ^  These  words  we  bandied  about  for  a  miuute  or  two. 
I  sometimes  singing  or  chanting  my  responses,  and  he  mocking 
me  aa  closely  as  his  choking  anger  would  permit  him.  What  a 
kind  friend  I  had  in  my  illness !  After  he  was  gone,  I  continued 
for  some  time  to  call  the  servant ;  but  finding  it  in  vain,  I  slipped  on 
my  robe,  and  walked  out  into  the  kitchen.  There  were  both  the 
servants  cowering  over  a  pan  of  embers :  not  gone  to  bed.  I  stepped 
up  to  the  Tibet  lad  who  ought  to  have  answered  my  call,  and 
fetched  him  a  box  on  the  ear  that  roused  him  presently.  He 
started  up  and  ran  away.  It  was  too  cold,  and  I  too  unwell  to 
run  after  him.  I  addressed  myself  to  the  Chinese,  and  sharply 
remonstrated  with  him  for  his  brutality.  I  told  him  if  he  did  not 
immediately  make  me  something  warm  I  would  turn  him  away 
the  next  morning ;  that  I  knew  what  I  was  saying,  and  he  might 
depend  upon  it  I  would  be  as  good  as  my  word.  Then  I  went 
back  to  bed.  I  heard  them  afterwards  unbar  the  gate,  and  go  out, 
so  I  suppose  they  were  short  of  water.  They  soon  brought  me  tea 
in  plenty. 

I  tooE  no  notice  to  Munshi  of  his  beastly,  mulish  behaviour. 
Long,  long  after  I  had  occasion  to  say  something  in  praise  of 
the  Tibet  fellow.  I  observed  that  he  was  not  sulky;  tiiat  after 
receiving  a  scolding  he  was  more  attentive  and  well  behaved. 
After  I  gave  him  that  box  on  the  ear,  he  was  remarkably  sub- 
missive next  day,  atid  ready  to  serve  me.  "When  did  you  ever 
strike  him!"  exckimod  my  Munshi,  in  great  surprise.  "Why," 
said  I  (affecting  great  coolness,  and  speaking  in  a  tone  as  if  I  was 
telling  him  a  story  he  was  unacquainted  with),  ''  one  night  I  had 

*  In  LatiD,  he  used  the  words  ''non  potes."    He  ought  to  have  said,  "doh 
licet."    My  response  was,  **  at  verberabo." — T.  M. 


Ch.  Vra.]  A  LADY  PATIENT.  285 

taken  physic,  and  wanted  something  to  drink.  I  called  him  oyer 
and  oyer  again.  He  would  not  come  near  me.  I  got  up,  went  to 
the  kitchen,  and  fetched  him  a  swinging  hox  on  the  ear."  Munshi 
did  not  answer  a  word.  The  seryants,  I  suppose,  ha4  neyer  men- 
tioned the  hlow  to  him,  and  he  had  thought  I  had  not  dared  to  put 
in  execution  the  threat  I  had  repeated  so  often  and  so  positiyely. 
Now  at  once  he  saw  the  whole  in  its  true  light ;  his  own  miserahle 
peeyishness  no  douht  came  to  his  mind — for  he  was  aware  his 
temper  was  none  of  the  sweetest — and  he  was  ashamed.  I  turned 
the  discourse  to  something  else. 

The  season  was  now  come  when  the  Grand  Lama  annually 
retires  from  the  world  for  a  month  or  more,  and  deyotes  himself 
to  religious  exercises.  The  interpreter  gaye  me  notice,  in  order 
that  I  might  see  him  before  he  withdrew  from  the  public;  but 
upon  my  telling  him  I  should  stay  at  Lhasa  until  the  cold  weather 
was  oyer,  he  said  I  had  better  defer  it  until  the  Lama  came  out 
again.  In  the  meantime  I  recoyer  my  health  perfectly,  and  became 
rather  happy,  strong,  and  well.  One  of  the  Thalungs  about  this 
time  wished  me  to  see  his  mother,  who  had  an  ailment  in  her  eyes. 
I  went  with  my  Munshi.  We  were  receiyed  into  a  handsome 
room,  where  I  sat  vis-orvia  with  the  dcane  for  half  an  hour.  She 
was  still  young,  plump,  and  rather  handsome,  and  her  &ce  was 
washed  dean.  She  had  a  profusion  of  pearls  on  her  head.  Munshi 
said  they  were  real  pearls.  I  thought  from  their  multitude  they 
must  some  of  them  be  artificial.  Her  female  attendant  stood  titter- 
ing and  giggling  about,  turning  away  the  pretty  faces  when  I 
looked  at  them  with  a  smile,  and  again  looking  on  giggling  when 
I  closely  inspected  the  dame's  eyes.  She  had  a  slight  speck 
gathering  in  one  of  them,  and  the  other  was  a  little  clouded.  She 
attributed  it  to  staying  too  long  at  her  deyotions  in  the  temple 
with  the  cold  wind  blowing  about  her ;  for  she  was  yery  deyout, 
and  was  about  to  withdraw  the  yery  next  day,  and  retire  to  her 
chamber  for  a  month's  praying,  recitation,  and  mortification.  I 
told  her  I  would  send  her  a  pill  to  take  that  eyening,  preparatory 
to  a  lotion  for  the  eyes,  which  she  might  use  during  her  retire- 
ment. She  seemed  to  think  it  would  be  a  breach  of  the  rules 
of  mortification  to  use  medicine  during  that  time.  I  tried  to  per* 
suade  her  to  the  contrary.    After  I  had  drank  my  mehiy  as  she 


286  A  VISIT  FBOM  PBETTY  GIRLS.  [Ch.  VOI. 

had  presented  me  with  two  or  three  little  baskets  of  dried  fruits^  I 
took  my  leave.  I  sent  her  the  pill  and  the  lotion,  but  I  fonnd 
afterwards  that  she  nerer  took  them.  I  had  not  promised  that  I 
would  core  her,  and  many  of  Lhasa,  both  Chinese  and  Tibetans, 
are  unwilling  to  take  medicine  unless  they  are  assured  of  receiving 
benefit  from  it.  She  satisfied  her  curiosity,  if  that  was  partly 
her  motive  for  sending  for  me,  and  I  was  very  well  pleased  with 
my  visit.  Just  before  this,  I  had  two  handsome,  weU-dressed, 
clean-washed  lasses  come  to  my  lodging  with  their  mother  to 
consult  me.  I  could  not  find  out  that  there  was  anything  the 
matter  with  them,  except  superabundance  of  health  and  spirits. 
It  was  so  long  since  I  had  seen  female  charms  of  this  order  that 
feeling  their  pulses  rather  disordered  my  own.  I  asked  them 
many  questions — ^not  troublesome  ones.  They  laughed  and  giggled. 
What  they  answered  I  do  not  know.  My  Chinese  servant  was 
interpreter,  and  though  he  spoke  fluently,  and  never  hesitated  at 
explaining  anything  that  was  put  to  him,  he  in  fact  understood 
very  Httle  of  the  Tibet  language.  I  gave  them  all  something  very 
innocent,  and  after  a  few  days  they  came  again,  and  brought  me 
a  present  of  some  excellent  mutton.  They  were  welcome  to  come 
as  often  as  they  liked,  vntbout  bringing  mutton  or  anything  but 
their  own  pretty  faces.  I  understood  they  were  the  family  of 
a  rich  Tibet  merchant. 

One  of  the  Dalai  Lama's  physicians  requested  me  to  see  to  him. 
He  had  an  apartment  in  the  palace.  He  sent  a  horse  for  me  and  an- 
other for  my  Munshi.  We  were  conducted  up  the  back  of  the  moun- 
tain by  a  road,  defended  by  a  parapet  wall,  which  vnnds  up  to  the 
palace,  and  thus  were  saved  the  fatigue  of  ascending  the  mountain 
on  foot.  I  found  the  physician  in  bed,  supported  by  pillows.  He 
had  a  stiff  neck  and  back,  which  he  could  not  straighten,  a  swelling 
in  his  knee,  and  general  debility  of  body  and  mind.  I  found  he 
had  used  fire  for  his  neck.  I  gave  him  a  Spanish-fly  blister,  which 
he  praised,  and  said  was  of  benefit.  I  gave  him  an  oily  mixture  for 
an  inward  complaint,  which  speedily  relieved  him.  But  I  found 
afterwards  that  he  had  taken  only  half  of  it,  and  that  other  medi- 
cines I  sent  him  he  absolutely  refused  to  take,  in  spite  of  the 
remonstrances  of  his  servants.  He  was  childish,  they  said ;  he  did 
not  like  the  taste  or  the  smell.   I  had  used  mint  water:  he  did  not  like 


Ch.  Vin.]  THE  LAMA*S  PHYSICIAN.  287 

that.  I  adyised  him  to  drink  a  small  quantity  of  wine  every  day. 
That  advice  he  consented  to  comply  with.  I  visited  him  three  or 
four  times.  I  had  hopes  of  relieving  him,  and  afterwards  strengthen- 
ing him  with  hark,  of  which  I  had  a  good  store  by  me ;  hnt  it  was 
impossible  in  his  case  to  make  him  np  medicines  that  had  no  taste. 
I  was  compelled  to  leave  him  to  himself.  He  said,  he  would  try 
what  prayers  and  recitations  of  the  Lama  would  do  for  him,  and 
afterwards  send  for  me  again.  I  saw  no  more  of  him.  I  sometimes 
inquired  how  he  did,  and  was  told  he  continued  in  the  same  weak, 
lingering  way.  Long  afterwards,  upon  seeing  one  of  his  acquaint- 
ances, he  occurred  to  my  mind.  *'  How  is  that  physician  ?  "  He 
held  out  four  fingers,  and  signified  that  he  had  been  dead  so  many 
days.  As  it  was  perfectly  well  known  that  he  did  not  take  any  of 
my  medicines  after  the  first  dose,  which  was  of  real  service  to  him, 
not  the  slightest  blame  was  attached  to  me :  it  was  lamented  that  he 
had  been  so  childish  as  to  see  me  and  not  trust  himself  to  my  care. 
I  found  that  my  patients  often  took  the  hberty  of  swerving  from  my 
directions.  If  there  were  two  pills,  they  would  take  one  perhaps, 
though  they  were  utterly  ignorant  whether  it  was  a  strong  or  a  weak 
dose.  As  for  a  course  of  alteratives,  I  scarcely  ever  could  get  any- 
one to  continue  it  above  two  or  three  days.  Gases  of  complaints  came 
before  me,  some  of  which  would  no  doubt  have  yielded  to  vitriolic  acid 
or  to  mercury,  but  I  could  not  cure  them  with  a  single  pill.  A  few 
who  had  the  sense  to  submit  themselves  entirely  to  my  directions 
were  completely  cured,  and  acknowledged  it  with  gratitude  and 
thanks. 

My  money  now  was  getting  very  low.  I  had  written  to  Bang- 
p6r  for  a  supply,  but  so  long  a  time  had  elapsed  without  an  answer 
that  I  gave  np  all  hopes  from  that  quarter.  I  found  it  necessary  to 
sell  such  articles  of  apparel  and  other  things  as  I  could  spare.  I  sold 
some  silk  and  crape  I  had  brought  with  me,  and  which  had  escaped 
the  hands  of  the  Bhutanese.  I  sold  some  sheets,  a  piece  of  cotton 
cloth,  gauze  gowns,  a  belt  with  stone  clasp,  a  large  tea  box,  hand- 
kerchiefe,  which  I  at  first  meant  to  have  kept;  a  few  empty  bottles; 
two  or  three  bottles  of  cherry  brandy,  which  I  had  offered  to  the 
mandarina  on  my  arrival  and  again  on  tiieir  birthdays,  but  whicA  had 
not  been  accepted ;  a  handsome  opera -glass;  a  fftn ;  in  short,  every- 
thing I  could  muster  up,  except  the  clothes  I  should  probably  want 


288  SECOND  VISIT  TO  THE  DALAI  LAMA.  [Ch.  VHI 

to  use,  and  a  few  keepsake  trinkets^  that  I  was  tiiiwillmg  to  part 
with.  Thns  I  raised  a  reasonable  supply  of  money,  and  reduced  my 
baggage  into  a  yery  small  compass.  I  had  informed  the  mandarins 
and  others  that  I  expected  money  from  Calcutta.  As  it  did  not 
come,  they  knew  I  was  rather  straitened  in  my  drcumstanoes,  and 
if  at  last  I  should  be  forced  to  borrow  it  would  not  seem  strange. 
I  managed  so  as  to  keep  up  a  certain  respectability ;  and  though  I  was 
not  invited  anywjiere  to  dinner  (I  do  not  know  that  it  is  the  custom 
in  Lhasa,  besides  I  was  considered  as  a  Lama),  wherever  I  went 
I  was  treated  as  a  gentleman.  I  was  glad  to  part  with  my  foolish 
dawdle  of  a  Chinese  servant,  who  ate  up  four  taels  of  silver  for 
me  per  month  besides  his  food,  and  this  without  being  of  any 
use.  As  he  saw  me  selling  off  my  things,  and  knew  that  my 
finances  were  low,  he  could  not  be  dissatisfied  or  think  that  I 
treated  the  Gteneral's  recommendation  slightingly.  I  lent  him  a 
small  sum  of  money,  and  he  set  up  as  a  butcher,  but  he  had  neither 
sense  nor  diUgence  enough  to  thrive  in  any  line.  He  spent  the 
money  idly  and  loosely,  and  soon  gave  up  his  new  profession.  Then 
he  sold  d^es  and  sweetmeats;  but  that  did  not  answer.  When  aU 
his  money  was  gone,  and  his  clothes  becoming  ragged,  he  took  some 
opportunity  of  returning  to  his  dear  Szechuen,  which  he  extolled 
as  a  paradise. 

As  soon  as  the  Grand  Lama  came  out  from  his  retirement,  I 
went  again  to  salute  him.  He  was  pale  and  worse  in  health, 
I  thought,  for  his  seclusion.  Nothing  particular  passed  at  this 
interview.  I  took  care  this  time  to  drink  of  his  excellent  suchi  as 
nearly  to  the  bottom  of  the  cup  as  propriety  would  allow.  He 
made  me  a  Uttle  present  of  rice  and  dried  fruits.  From  his  palaoe 
I  proceeded  to  that  of  the  Ti*mu-fu.  The  Tf-mu-fu  received  me 
very  kindly,  asked  me  many  questions,  and  bid  me  come  often.  He 
has  nothing  of  the  prince  in  his  manner,  being  I  think  rather 
vulgar,  and  laughing  too  often  and  too  &miliarly.  He  bears  a  good 
character,  and  I  should  judge  him  to  be  a  very  good-natured  kind- 
hearted  man.  He  gave  me  a  bag  of  rice,  and  excused  himself  for 
having  nothing  better  to  offer  me. 

*  I  afterwards  gave  them  to  the  GraDd      loath  to  go  empty  handed,  and 
Lama  and  Ti-mu-fu  as  a  New  Tear's      forced  to  sacrifice  them. — T.  M. 
offering.    I  had  nothing  else.   I  was 


Ch.  VIII.]  VISIT  TO  THE  TEMPLES.  289 

I  have  not  yet  visited  the  temples.  I  was  very  desirous  of  doing 
it,  but  cotdd  find  no  person  to  go  with  me  who  could  properly 
explain  things.  My  Munshi,  too,  was  desirous  that  I  should  go, 
and  obliquely  asked  me  seyeral  times  whether  I  intended  it.'  I  could 
not  at  first  understand  what  his  motiye  was ;  but  upon  my  declaring 
my  positiye  intention  of  going,  he  told  me  that  the  mandarins 
and  one  of  the  Thalungs  and  their  understrappers  had  several  times 

inquired  of  him  whether  I  had  yet  paid  my  respects  to .^ 

The  mandarins,  he  said,  were  aware  that  the  Catholics  refused  to 
pay  these  respects ;  consequently,  if  I  went  it  would  wipe  off  their 
suspicions  of  my  being  a  missionary.  He  could  not  go  with  me ; 
he  would  not  pay  reyerenoe  to  their  BomtB  if  they  were  to  kiU  him 
for  refusing.  This  speech  had  quite  a  contrary  effect  on  me  to 
what  he  intended.  I  told  him  I  did  not  know  whether  I  should 
or  should  not ;  if  it  was  expected  of  me,  and  if  there  were  ceremonies 
to  go  through  with  the  image,  I  certainly  should  not  go,  unless  I 
found  that  they  were  considered  as  matters  of  course,  and  practised 
by  the  mandarins  and  others  who  professedly  were  non-belieyers  in 
the  religion  of  Tibet ;  that  the  respect  I  had  always  professed  for 
their  religion  was  sincere ;  that  I  had  never  by  any  word  or  action 
pledged  myself  to  anything  further,  neither  would  I.  I  was  very 
glad,  after  inquiring,  to  find  that  this  reverence  to  the  image  was 
practised  by  the  mandarins  as  a  matter  of  course  and  pledged  them 
to  nothing. 

Accordingly,  one  day  I  declared  my  intention  of  going  next 
morning,  and  that  I  would  take  my  Tibetan  servant  with  me,  having 
nobody  better  to  attend  me.  No  sooner  was  I  ready  and  had  stepped 
out  of  my  room,  but  out  popped  my  Munshi  from  his  with  a 
bunch  of  incense,  which  he  whipped  into  the  servant's  hand. 
I  had  half  a  mind  to  go  back,  but  conquered  my  disgust,  and 
seemed  not  to  see  it.  Then  he  asks  me,  "  Have  you  got  a  scarf 
with  you  ?  "— "  For  what  ?  "  *'  To  offer  to  the  saint."—**  Pooh ! " 
says  I ;  *^  I  shall  give  no  scarf  nor  anything  else.  I  know  nothing 
about  it.   I  am  a  foreigner,  and  curious  to  see  and  learn  everything. 

>  This  is  the  n&me  of  iheii  great  manuaoript.  The  great  religioiu  law- 
saint,  or  religiouB  lawgiver.  I  never  giver  of  the  Yellow  Cap  sect,  to  which 
could  rightly  make  out  his  story. — T.M.  the  Dalai  Lama  belongs,  was  Tson- 

The  word  is  not  dearly  legible  in  the  khapa. 

U 


290  VISIT  TO  THE  TEMPLES.  [Ch.  Vm. 

Any  form  and  ceremony  that  is  required  I  shall  go  through,  and 
nothing  further."  I  went  to  the  temple;  but  it  little  answered 
either  my  purpose  or  my  Munshi's.  My  servant,  who  from  his 
childhood  had  been  a  neglected  orphan,  was  ignorant  as  a  beast.  He 
was  nominally  a  Muhammadan,  but  utterly  ignorant  even  of  his 
own  rehgion.  He  so  spleened  me  with  his  brutish  ignorance  and 
hoggish  answers,  that  I  could  not  help  speaking  crossly,  and  this 
before  the  images  of  the  saints.  There  were  hundreds  of  people  in 
the  temple ;  some  gathered  about  me  and  seemed  astounded  at 
my  irreyerent  manner.  There  were  two  large  figures  of  women 
before  the  principal  image.  After  I  had  made  my  salute  to 
him,  which  consisted  of  one  ketese^  I  asked  about  these  figures. 
He  returned  the  same  general  answer  as  for  all  the  rest :  he  said 
they  were  saint  images.  I  again  exclaimed  against  his  ignorance 
in  a  manner  that  did  not  befit  the  place.  Some  idle  people  laughed, 
and  others  stared.  I  was  really  angry  and  yexed  to  think  how 
fruitless  was  all  the  trouble  I  took,  and  how  impossible  it  was  to 
get  anything  explained.  I  took  no  notice  of  the  incense ;  my 
servant  stuck  it  where  he  liked.  I  meani;  to  have  told  my  Munshi 
that  the  saint  thanked  him  for  his  offering  and  hoped  soon  to  see 
him  in  person,  as  he  was  better  pleased  with  his  attentions  than 
with  mine ;  but  Munshi  on  my  return  never  asked  me  a  single 
question  nor  opened  his  Ups  on  the  subject  I  heard  him  question- 
ing the  servant.  I  dare  say  he  was  not  at  all  pleased  with  the 
account  he  heard. 

In  my  way  home  I  called  in  at  a  little  Chinese  temple,  and  also 
made  the  shrine  a  Chinese  salute,  for  I  was  determined  to  show 
myself  impartial  to  the  saints.  My  servant  seemed  surprised.  I 
asked  a  few  questions  of  the  Chinese  sexton,  but  learned  nothing 
curious.  He  offered  to  open  other  doors  and  show  me  all  that  was 
to  be  seen.  I  said  I  had  no  offering  with  me  at  present,  and 
that  I  would  defer  it  till  another  opportunity. 

The  next  day  I  visited  another  large  temple,  but  made  no  salutes 
or  reverences.  This  was  reported  to  Munshi  by  some  Chinamen. 
They  said  what  a  strange  thing  it  was  that  the  Lama  (meaning  me) 
went  to  the  temple  without  an  offering,  and  without  performing 
ceremony.  No  doubt  my  Munshi  made  out  the  best  account  he 
could  for  me  to  the  Mandarines  people,  and  told  them  I  had  wor- 


Ch.  VUI.]  toleration.  291 

shipped  the  saint  in  proper  form.  How  delicate  his  conscience  was ! 
So  anxious  to  damn  my  sonl  in  order  to  shelter'  his  own  carcass ! 
I  had  no  more  objection  to  bowing  to  the  image  than  he  had  to  a 
paper,  a  roll,  or  other  missiye  coming  from  the  Emperor.  When  I 
entered  the  temples  in  Bengal,  if  there  were  natives  abont,  I  always 
made  a  salam.  All  religions  as  they  ate  established  have  a  mixture 
in  them  of  good  and  evil,  and  upon  the  whole  they  all  perhaps  tend  to 
ciyilize  and  ameliorate  mankind :  as  such  I  respect  them.  As  for 
the  common  idea  that  the  founders  of  all  religions  except  onr  own 
were  impostors,  I  consider  it  as  a  vulgar  error.  I  have  expressed 
this  opinion  long  long  before  I  had  any  thoughts  of  visiting  Lhasa. 
But  my  Munshi,  being  a  Boman  Catholic,  of  course  was  utterly 
intolerant  to  all  saints  not  in  his  own  calendar.  We  are  apt  to 
think  the  Muhammadan  religion  eminently  intolerant ;  but  if  it  be 
fitirly  examined  it  will  be  found  much  less  so  than  the  Soman 
Catholic,  both  in  practice  and  in  principle. 

The  new  year  approached:  the  season  of  congratulations,  pomps, 
and  shows.  If  there  was  any  little  present  I  could  make  to  the 
Girand  Lama  and  the  Tf-mu-fu  on  New  Year's  day  I  was  told  it 
would  be  acceptable. 

Thus  &r  written  at  Lhasa.  The  remainder  from  short  notes 
taken  at  Lhasa  and  from  memory. 


V  2 


292 


ANOTHER  VISIT  TO  THE  DALAI  LAMA, 


[Ch.  IX. 


CHAPTEE  IX. 


FRAGMENTARY  NOTES— RETURN  JOURNEY. 


The  TibetaoB  do  not  use  the  Chinese  kalends:  they  have 
astronomers  and  a  calendar  of  their  own.  Their  year  commences 
at  the  same  time  as  the  Chinese  year,  yiz.  the  February  new  moon. 
Their  astronomical  tables  and  precepts  come  from  Chaldng,  they 
say.     If  this  be  true,  they  are  very  old.^ 

Jan,  8  =  16th  of  twelfth  moon.  I  yisited  the  Lama  and  after* 
wards  the  Tf-mn-fa.    He  promised  me  books. 

10th  =  29th  of  twelfth  moon.  I  yisited  the  Lama  nnex- 
pectedly,  and  he  gave  me  sacred  leaves  wrapped  np  in  yeUow  silk. 

Feb.  12  =  Chiz.    New  year. 

As  I  wrote  at  the  time,  I  have  made  obserrations  which  are  in- 
correct, having  been  deceived.  Example :  I  say,  my  servant  took 
an  opportanity  of  returning  to  Szechnen.  He  told  me  he  was 
going,  and  mentioned  some  particulars.  I  afterwards  fonnd  he 
had  deceived  me,  and  still  loitered  in  Lhasa.  Perhaps  his  coming 
to  take  leave  of  me  was  for  the  sake  of  a  farewell  present 

New  year.  I  visited  the  Grand  Lama  on  the  last  day  of  the 
year  and  on  New  Year's  day,  and  gave  him  a  telescope. 

I  determined  to  ask  leave  to  go  back  with  Munshi  and  to 
change  onr  route,  hoping  to  be  asked  to  go  by  Canton. 

^  The  Tibetans  have  derived  their  as- 
tronomical knowledge  both  from  Indian 
and  Chinese  Bonroes.  The  system  formed 
on  the  Indian  principle  is  called  Karsis, 
and  the  mode  of  reckoning  years  in  the 
Chinese  manner  is  called  Naksis.  The 
common  mode  of  reckoning  time  among 
the  people  is  by  the  cycle  of  twelve 
years,  in  which  each  year  is  denominated 
from  an  animal,  in  the  following  order : 


7.  Horse  year. 

10.  Bird  year 

8.  Sheep    „ 

11.  Dog      „ 

9.  Ape       „ 

12.  Hog     „ 

1.  Mouse  year. 

2.  Ox 

3.  Tiger 


»i 


»» 


4.  Hare    year. 

5.  Dragon  „ 

6.  Serpent  „ 


In  books  they  make  use  of  a  cycle  of 
sixty  years.  The  year  is  a  lunar  year, 
with  intercalary  months  for  periods  of 
nineteen  years,  one  month  being  in- 
serted every  third  year.  The  year 
begins  in  February  with  the  appear- 
ance of  the  full  moon.  The  months 
are  called  the  first,  second,  third,  &e^ 
months ;  each  of  thirty  daya. — *  Csoma 
de  Koros.' 


Ch.  IX.]  LAST  DAYS  AT  LHASA.  293 

But  there  are  reasons  why  I  must  not  expect  to  be  asked  thai, 

I  went  to  ask  leaye. 

Decree  arrived. 

Monshi  goes  again  to  see  whether  anything  can  be  done  to- 
day.    Comes  back  in  chains.    I  anxious.^ 

Grand  Lama's  kindness. 

Glad  when  Mnnshi  goes.  Why  ?  Because  he  writes  to  me. 
He  comes  again  to  see  me.     I  give  him  note  upon  Elphinstone. 

Mandarins  send  for  me,  and  give  me  letters  opened.  ''Are 
these  yours  ?  "  GiviL  Promise  good  news.  Adyised  me  to  stay 
awhile. 

Dread  another  decree  !  Dread  missionaries  at  Peking.  Dread 
something  coming  to  light :  that  I  haye  been  at  Canton.  I  am 
told  the  Thalungs  say  I  am  to  go  in  a  few  days. 

Visit  a  magistrate.     He  thinks  I  do  his  eyes  good. 

Apply  again  on  the  19th.    Strangely  put  off. 

Sell  my  empty  bottles. 

Get  my  things  in  order,  to  be  ready  to  set  off. 

Great  cold  again. 

Strange  fever  and  cough :  think  I  am  poisoned. 

Visited  by  an  Armenian,  who  wants  to  go  with  me.    How  can  I  ? 

12th,  or  25th  of  second  month.  Ching  Tf-mu-fu  bids  me  stay 
until  new  Mandarin  comes.     Why  ?     Uneasy. 

2nd  of  third  month.     Very  cold.     Frost.    Clear  sky. 

3rd.  Visit  the  Lama.  Ask  to  go.  Go  to  Tf-mu-fu.  Told  I 
shall  have  good  news  in  a  few  days.     Snow. 

4th.  Snow  remaining  in  the  morning.     Fine  day. 

5th.  Go  to  temple.  See  three  Thalungs,  who  give  me  silk  and 
tea. 

Munshi  bribes  the  treasurer.  Called  upon  by  Chinamen  after 
Munshi  is  gone. 

Bhutan  men  would  have  the  Pari-jong  magistrate  brought  to 
Lhasa.  Bhutanese  at  Lhasa  show  violence.  Surrounded  by 
soldiers.     Obliged  to  lay  down  their  knives. 

*  The  Manshi  was    detained   as  a  Moorcroft  having  been  at  Lhasa  (p.  202) 

Chinese  subject,  while  Mr.  Manning  can  scarcoly  refer  to  Manning's  viait. 

was  dismissed  by  the  route  he  came.  It  is,  I  suspect,  a  pure  inyention. 
The  story  of  the  Abb^   Hue    about 


294  RETURN  TO  BENGAL.  [Oh.  IX. 

AprU  6.  I  took  leave  of  the  Grand  Lama  with  a  sorrowful 
heart.  I  said  I  would  tell  my  king  (Goyemor  of  Bengal)  that  I 
was  well  treated.  His  heart  rejoices.  I  thank  the  Grand  Lama, 
and  promise  that  if  afterwards  a  Lhasa  man  comes  to  Bengal  it 
shall  not  be  forgotten.  I  take  leave  of  Ti-ma-fo.  SorrowfoL 
Beceive  presents.  Go  to  Tajin  and  Tay-Ye,  bnt  do  not  see  them. 
Second  Tajin  gives  me  a  scarf  and  a  piece  of  stuff  for  a  saddle 
carpet.    Make  up  things.    Bather  sorrowfnl. 

7th.  Pat  off  by  the  Tnandarins  until  after  to-morrow. 

Left  Lhasa  on  the  9th  of  third  moon  (19th  of  April).  Arrived 
at  Pari-jong  the  Ist  of  May. 

May  3,  Attendants  ttom  Pari-jong  left  me.  I  then  visited  the 
magistrates. 

May  22.  Conference.  Do  they  think  I  am  a  tradesman? 
How  should  I  know  the  prices  of  things  at  Calcutta,  or  whether 
this  doth  be  prime  or  second  ? 

23rd.  My  collar  to  be  slipped  to-morrow. 

24th  =  fourth  moon.  Off  about  sunset,  aflier  another  foolish 
conference.    Four  miles, 

25th.  Bapasay. 

26th.  Bfda-Balk. 

27th.  Chazi  (two  kos). 

28th.  To  Matakah. 

29th.  Dumgong. 

Slst.  Tazigong. 

June  1.  Village.    Palm  trees. 

2nd.  Open  village. 

3rd.  Eantalbari. 

5th.  Linger  on.  I  declare  I  will  positively  go  to-morrow,  even 
if  on  foot. 

6th.  I  threatened  to  walk,  and  took  up  my  bundle.  They  gave 
me  a  horse. 

June  10,  1812.  Beached  Kuch  Bahar.^ 

*  He  Beems  to  have  returned  by  the  same  way  that  he  came— thai  of  the 
Lakhi  Diiar. 


(    295    ) 


APPENDIX. 


>0t 


I. 

AcOOtJNT   OF   TbAYBLS  OF  JOHANN   GbUXBIB,   Jb8UIT.^ 

Thb  Missioner  set  out  for  China,  as  we  conjecture,  in  the  year  1656. 
According  to  the  first  letter,  he  went  from  Venice  to  Smyrna  by  sea  ; 
from  thence  to  Ormnz  by  land  in  five  months  ;  from  Ormuz  by  sea  in 
seyen  months  to  Makau.^  There  landing,  he  passed  through  China 
partly  by  water,  partly  by  land,  to  Peking  in  three  months.  He 
stayed  in  China  three  years  :  in  one  of  which,  viz.  1660,  he  says  the 
fifky-six  Jesuits  who  were  then  in  that  empire  baptized  more  than 
fifty  thousand  men. 

In  his  return  he  took  a  road  neyer  perhaps  attempted  by  any 
European  before.  Grueber  left  Peking  in  the  month  of  June,  1661, 
in  company  with  Albert  Dorville,  of  the  same  society.  In  thirty 
days  he  came  to  Singan-fu,^  and  in  thirty  more  to  Sining-fu,  cross- 
ing the  Hoang-ho,  or  Yellow  Riyer,  twice  in  the  way. 

Sining  ^  is  a  great  and  populous  city,  built  at  the  yast  Wall  of 
China,  through  the  gate  of  which  the  merchants  horn  India  enter 
Eatay  or  China.  Here  they  stay  till  they  have  licence  from  the 
Emperor  to  proceed  forward.  The  Wall  at  this  place  is  so  broad  that 
six  horsemen  may  run  abreast  on  it  without  embarrassing  each  other. 
Here  the  citizens  of  Sining  take  the  air  (which  is  yery  healthful, 
coming  from  the  desert),  and  recreate  themselyes  with  the  prospect 
as  well  as  other  diversions.  There  are  stairs  to  go  a-top  of  the 
Wall,  and  many  travel  on  it  from  the  gate  at  Sining  to  the  next  at 
Sochew,  which  is  eighteen  days'  journey.  This  they  do  by  the 
Governor's  licence,  out  of  curiosity,  having  a  delightful  prospect  all 
the  way  from  the  Wall,  as  from  a  high  tower,  of  the  innumerable  habi- 


*  From  Astle/s  *  Collection  of  Voy- 
ages,' vol.  iv. 

'  Macao. 

*  The  capital  of  Shensi,  once  capital 
of  China. 

*  On  the  western  frontier  of  Eanrah, 
towards  Kokonor.  It  is  difficult  to  ac- 
count'for  the  crossing  of  the  Hoang-ho 
twice,  between  Singan  and  Sining.  The 


maps  also  place  the  Great  Wall  at  a 
distance  of  15  geographical  miles  from 
Sining,  and  its  continuation  to  Suchau 
in  Kansuh  appears  to  be  broken  by 
palisades.  Besides,  there  is  no  evidence 
on  the  maps  that  the  Wall  runs  south- 
wards from  Sining  to  Quangsi,  Yunnan, 
and  Tibet. 


296 


TRAVELS  OF  GRUEBER. 


[App. 


tations  on  one  side,  and  the  varioas  kinds  of  wild  beasts  which  range 
the  desert  on  the  other  side.  Besides  wild  bulls,  here  are  tigers, 
lions,  elephants,  rhinoceroses,  and  monoceroses,  which  are  a  kind  of 
homed  asses.  Thus  the  merchants  view  the  beasts  free  from  danger, 
especially  from  that  part  of  the  Wall  which,  running  southward, 
approaches  the  more  inhabited  provinces  of  Qnang-si,  Yunnan,  and 
Tibet,  for  at  certain  times  of  the  year  they  betake  themselves  to  the 
Yellow  Biver  and  parts  near  the  Wall,  which  abound  with  thickets,  in 
order  to  get  pasture  and  seek  their  prey. 

This  desert  is  partly  mountainous  and  partly  level,  all  over  sandy 
and  barren,  excepting  that  in  some  places  yon  meet  with  little  rivulets 
whose  banks  yield  good  pasture.  It  begins  in  the  middle  part  of 
India,  and  extends  from  south  to  north,  but  nobody  ever  yet  hath  dis- 
covered its  bounds,  which  may  stretch  to  the  Frozen  Ocean.  Marco 
Polo  calls  this  desert  Lop,  and  speaks  of  its  being  haunted  with 
spirits.  But  Grueber  says  nothing  of  them.  The  Tatars  formerly 
called  it  Beljan,  now  Samo;  the  Chinese  Ealmuk,  others  Eara- 
kathay.  The  Tatars,  accustomed  to  deserts,  dwell  here  in  tents, 
removing  with  their  cattle  wherever  they  can  find  a  river  or  plaoe 
fit  for  pasture.^ 

The  road  from  Sining  as  far  as  Lhasa  is  somewhat  differently 
described  in  different  letters.  In  the  first  we  are  told  that  Grueber, 
passing  out  of  Ohina,  entered  the  sands  of  desert  Tatary,  which  he 
crossed  in  three  days.  Afterwards  he  came  to  the  banks  of  the  Koko- 
nor,  which  signifies  the  Great  Sea,^  being  a  great  lake  or  sea  like  the 
Caspian,  where  the  Yellow  River  has  its  source. 

Leaving  this  sea  behind  him,  he  entered  into  the  coimtry  of  Tok- 
tokay,^  which  is  almost  desert  and  so  barren  that  it  need  fear  no  in- 
vasion. One  meets  with  nothing  but  some  tents  of  Tatars.  It  is 
watered  by  the  Toktokay,  a  very  fine  river,  whence  it  takes  the  name. 
It  is  as  large  as  the  Danube,  but  so  shallow  that  it  may  be  forded 
everywhere. 

Thence,  having  crossed  the  country  of  Tangut,^  he   came  to 


*  The  beginniDg  of  the  Desert  of 
Lop,  Gobi,  or  Shamo,  in  the  micUlie 
part  of  India,  is  also  tinintelligible. 
The  Chinese  call  this  Desert  Ko-pih, 
or  Ta  Ko-pih;  also  8ha-moh,  and 
Han-hai,  or  Sea  t>f  Sand.  Beljan 
(eo  called  by  Hayton  the  Armenian, 
see  Tule's  'Cathay/  czovi.)  may  be  a 
Turki  name  for  it.  Ealmuk  is  derived 
from  the  Mongol  tribe  of  that  name. 
Kara  Kathay  is  Black  Kathay,  the  old 
name  for  Mongolia. 


'  Kokonor  does  not  signify  Or«a<  Sea, 
but  Blue  Sea,  and  it  is  not  the  souroe 
of,  nor  connected  with,  the  Tellov 
River,  yrhich  rises  in  a  distinct  system 
of  lakes. 

'  The  Toktcnai  oulan  mouren  is  one 
of  the  superior  affluents  or  sources  of 
the  Yang  tse  kiang,  or  Monroui  oussoii 
(*  Mag.  Asiatique/  ii.  246,  282). 

*  Tangut  is  here  applied  to  the  high 
plateau  of  Tibet,  north  of  Lhasa.  (See 
Yule's  *  Marco  Polo,  i.  pp.  184,  1''6.) 


App.] 


TRAVELS  OF  GRUBBER. 


297 


Betink,^  a  very  populous  proTince  belonging  to  the  kingdom  of  Baran- 
iola,^  whose  capital  is  Lhasa,  where  at  length  he  arriyed. 

According  to  the  fifth  letter,  or  Eircher's  abstract,  we  are  told 
that  presently,  after  they  had  passed  the  Great  Wall,  they  fonnd  a 
river  stored  with  fish,  on  which  they  sapped  in  an  open  tent.  Then, 
crossing  the  Yellow  Biyer,  they  immediately  entered  that  yast  and 
barren  desert  of  Ealmnk,  inhabited  by  the  Ealmuk  Tatars  (the 
Elnths  or  Tatars  of  Eoko-nor),  who  roye  np  and  down  it  to  rob  the 
carayans,  and  at  certain  seasons  settle  with  their  portable  cities  on  the 
banks  of  the  riyers.  The  Jesuits  often  met  with  their  habitations  in 
the  road,  and  drew  their  figures,  yiz.  a  Ealmnk  man,  clothed  with  a 
leathern  garment  and  yellow  cap ;  a  Ealmnk  woman  in  a  habit  made 
of  a  certain  skin  of  a  green  or  red  colonr,  each  with  a  charm  about 
their  necks  to  preserye  them  from  dangers ;  a  Lama,  that  is  one  of 
their  Tatar  priests  or  bishops.  They  wear  a  white  coat  or  cloak  cast 
backwards,  with  a  red  girdle,  and  a  yellow  coat,  from  the  girdle  of 
which  hangeth  down  a  pnrse;  their  cap  or  hat  is  painted  red. 
Their  habitations  are  tents  made  with  small  sticks  twisted  or  plaited 
together,  and  ooyered  with  a  coarse  woollen  stuff  bound  together 
with  cords. 

From  Sining  they,  in  three  months,  entered  the  kingdom  of  Lhasa, 
which  the  Tatars  call  Barantola.  The  Eing  is  styled  Deya,^  or  Teya, 
descended  from  an  ancient  race  of  the  Tangut  Tatars,  resides  at 
Bntala,  a  castle  built  on  a  high  mountain,  after  the  European  fashion, 
where  he  has  a  numerous  court.  The  great  priest  of  this  country  is 
called  Lama  Eonju,  and  adored  as  a  god.  He  resides  at  Barantola, 
and  is  the  Pope  of  the  Chinese  and  Tatars,  called  by  them  God  the 
Father,  whose  religion  in  all  essential  points  tallies  with  the  Bomish, 
although,  says  the  author,  no  Christian  oyer  was  in  the  coimtry 
before. 

Here  they  stayed  a  month,  and  might  haye  conyerted  many  of  the 
natiyes,  but  for  that  deyilish  God  the  Father  (as  the  author  calls 
him),  who  puts  to  death  such  as  refuse  to  adore  him.     Howeyer,  they 


'  Retink ;  perbaps  the  distriot  of  the 
Jang  Raiting  Monastery,  about  45  miles 
north  of  Lhasa.  (See  map  of  route  to 
Tengri  Nor.) 

'  Barantola.  Bourhan  is  a  synonym 
of  Buddha,  according  to  Hue,  ii.  115. 
Hence  perhaps  the  name  may  mean 
*'  country  of  Buddha."  Klaproth ,  in  his 
notes  to  *■  Delia  Penna/  asserts  that 
Barontala  in  Mongolian  means  the 
right  side,  referring  to  Tibet.  (Soo 
Yule's  *  Marco  Polo/  i.  193.)    This  also 


is  iu  accord  with  the  Mongolian  Dic- 
tionary of  Eovalensky. 

'  See  Klaproth,  *'  Description  du  Si 
Dzang  ou  Tubet/'  *Mag.  Asiatique,' 
If.  212  :  "  On  nomme  It  present  le  pays 
du  Dalai  lama,  indistinctement  Tubet 
ou  Tangut ;  .  .  .  .  le  roy  du  pays  est 

nommd  Diba *'  The  Tepa  Lama, 

who  conducts  the  civil  affairs  for  the 
Dalai  Lama,  appears  to  be  the  same  as 
the  Deva  or  Diba. 


298 


TRAVELS  OP  6BUEBER. 


[App. 


were  kindly  treated  by  the  people  and  King,  who  was  the  brother  of 
that  God  the  Father. 

In  the  Gonrt  of  Deya,  King  of  Tangat,  they  saw  a  woman,  bom 
in  Hami,^  in  Northern  Tatary,  dressed  in  an  nnnsual  habit.  She  wore 
hair  like  knotted  cords,  her  head  and  girdle  adorned  with  cockle- 
shells. They  saw  likewise  some  women  no  less  strangely  dressed, 
who  came  from  the  neighbouring  kingdom  of  Koin.^  The  ladies  braid 
or  cnrl  their  hair  in  the  manner  of  hair  laces  or  small  bands,  and 
twist  it  behind  them.  On  their  foreheads  they  wear  a  red  fillet  beset 
with  pearls,  and  on  the  top  of  their  heads  a  silver  crown,  bedecked 
with  turquoises  and  pearls. 

Grueber  drew  the  pictures  of  the  Grand  Lama  ^  (taken  from  one 
hung  at  the  palace  gate)  and  of  Han,  late  King  of  Tangut  This 
last,  who  had  fourteen  sons,  vras,  for  his  goodness  and  justice, 
reverenced  as  a  god.  He  was  of  a  dark  complexion,  his  beard  of  a 
chestnut  colour  mixed  with  grey,  and  his  eyes  protuberant. 

From  Lhasa,  or  Barantola,  they  came  in  four  days  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  Langur,^  which  being  exceedingly  high,  travellers  can  hardly 
breathe  at  top,  the  air  is  so  very  thin ;  neither  is  it  to  be  crossed  in 
summer  without  great  danger  from  the  exhalations  of  certain  poisonous 
herbs.  Besides,  as  no  waggons  or  beasts  can  pass  it  for  the  rocks  and 
precipices,  they  must  proceed  on  foot  almost  a  month  till  they  come 
to  Euthi,^  one  o$  the  two  chief  cities  of  .the  kingdom  of  Nekbal.^  This 
mountainous  tract  is  plentifully  furnished  with  springs  both  hot  and 
cold,  which  issue  from  all  parts  of  the  mountain,  affording  store  of 


*  Hami  is  one  of  the  Muhammadan 
cities  of  Kansuh,  beyond  the  Great 
Wall,  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  Tian 
Shan  mountains.  The  roads  along 
both  sides  of  the  range  meet  at  this 
point. 

>  This  may  be  Kam,  the  eastern 
division  of  Tibet. 

*  '  The  Dalai  Lama  in  Grneber*s  time 
was  the  fifth  since  the  establishment  of 
the  Yellow  sect  by  Tsong-khapa,  and 
bore  the  name  of  Ngawang  lobdzang 
ghiamdzo.  (See  'Mag.  Asiatiqne,'  ii. 
214.) 

^  This  is  the  range  crossed  by  the 
Laghnlung-la  (pass)  and  the  Dango- 
la.  (See  the  map  of  the  routes  in 
Eastern  Nepal,  by  explorer  No.  9 
under  Colonel  Montgomerie.)  Accord- 
ing to  Brian  Hodgson,  Langur  is  a 


general  name  for  a  mountain  pass, 
equivalent  to  La  in  Tibetan,  and  Skan 
in  Chinese ;  Tagh  in  Turki,  and  Ula  in 
Mongolian. 

*  This  place  was  visited  by  Na  9, 
whose  route  seems  to  have  been  iden- 
tical with  the  missionary's.  It  is  also 
called  Nilam. 

^  This  form  of  Nepal  is  unaccount- 
able. Perhaps  it  is  a  misprint  for 
Nehpal.  The  Chinese  name  is  Palpoa 
(see  D'Anville's  maps).  Acoordingto 
Brian  Hodgson,  the  name  is  derived 
from  N^  the  sender  to  Paradise,  who 
is  Swayambhu  Adi-Buddha ;  and  pala, 
cherished.  It  is  Naipdla  in  Sanscrit 
The  Brahmans  assert  that  Ne  is  the 
proper  name  of  the  Saint  or  Muni  who 
first  settled  the  country. 


App.] 


TBATELS  OF  ORUEBEB. 


299 


fiflh  and  pasture.  From  Enthi,  in  five  days,  they  came  to  the  city 
Nesti,^  still  in  Nekbal,  where  provisions  are  so  plentifdl  that  thirty  or 
forty  hens  are  sold  for  one  crown« 

From  Nesti  they  came,  in  five  days'  jonmey,  to  Eadmendn,^  the 
metropolis  of  Nekbal,  where  reigns  a  potent  king.  From  Eadmendu, 
in  half  a  day's  time,  they  came  to  the  city  Nekbal,^  called  also  Baddan 
by  the  natives,  the  regal  city  of  the  whole  kingdom. 

The  first  letter  relates  that  Nekbal  is  a  month's  journey  in  extent, 
and  has  two  capital  cities,  Eatmandir  and  Patan,  separated  only  by  a 
river.  The  Eing,  called  Partasmal,^  resides  in  the  first,  and  his  brother, 
Nevasmal  (a  yonng  handsome  prince),  in  the  latter.  He  had  the 
conmiand  of  all  the  troops  in  the  country,  and  while  Graeber  was 
there  had  a  great  army  in  the  field  to  oppose  a  petty  king,  named 
Yarkam,  who  made  frequent  incursions  into  his  dominions. 

The  Jesuit  presented  this  prince  with  a  telescope,  wherewith 
having  discovered  a  place  where  Yarkam  had  fortified  himself,  he 
desired  the  prince  to  look  that  way,  which  he  did,  and  seeing  the 
enemy  so  near,  cried,  ^  Let  us  march  against  them  ! "  not  considering 
that  the  seeming  approach  was  the  effect  of  the  glass.  It  is  not  easy 
to  express  how  pleased  he  was  with  this  present.  He  likewise  gave 
the  Eing  other  curious  mathematical  instruments,  with  which  he  was 
so  taken  that  he  determined  not  to  let  them  go,  but  that  they  promised 
him  faithfully  to  return.  In  that  case,  he  promised  both  to  erect  a 
house  for  their  use,  endowed  with  ample  revenues,  and  grant  them  full 
power  to  introduce  the  Christian  law  into  his  kingdom. 

In  this  country,  when  a  man  drinks  to  a  woman,  the  company  pour 
in  the  liquor  eha  or  the  wine  three  times  for  the  parties,  and  while 
they  are  drinking  affix  three  pieces  of  butter  to  the  hrint  of  the  cup, 
which  those  who  pledge  them  take  off  and  stick  on  their  fore- 
heads. 

They  have  a  most  cruel  custom  in  these  kingdoms ;  for  when  they 
judge  their  sick  people  to  be  past  hopes  of  recovery,  they  carry  them 


>  This  IB  the  Listi  of  No.  9,  at  the 
soathem  entranoe  of  the  remarkable 
gorge  by  which  the  snmmlt  of  the 
Southern  Himalaya  is  carossed  in  com- 
ing from  Kuti. 

*  Kathmandn. 

>  Nekbal  city,  or  Baddan, "  the  regal 
city  of  the  whole  kingdom."  Althongh 
Kathmandn  has  become  the  residence 
of  the  Gorkha  conquerors  of  Nepal,  and 
Bhatgaon  is  described  by  Eirkpatrick 
a»  a  superior  place,  the  old  capital,  and 


the  favoorite  residence  of  the  Brahman 
priesthood,  still  the  Baddan  of  the  mis- 
sionary is  Lalita  Patan,  another  con- 
siderable city  in  the  same  valley  as 
Eathmandu. 

*  Pratap  malla,  king  of  Eathmandu, 
and  Toga  Narendra  malla,  king  of 
Patan,  1689.  (See  Prinsep's  Tables  of 
the  Bajas  of  Nepal,  p.  116.)  There  is 
no  account  of  the  petty  king  Yarkam, 
probably  Vikrama. 


300 


TRAVELS  OF  ORUEBEB. 


[App. 


into  the  fields,  and  casting  them  into  deep  ditches  fall  of  dead 
corpses,  there  leave  them  to  perish,  and  their  bodies,  when  dead,  to  be 
devonred  by  birds  and  beasts  of  prey,  esteeming  it  an  honour  to  have 
living  creatures  for  their  tombs. 

The  women,  out  of  a  religions  whim,  never  wash,  but  daub  them- 
selves with  a  nasty  kind  of  oil,  which  not  only  causes  them  to  stink 
intolerably,  but  renders  them  extremely  ugly  and  deformed. 

From  Nekbal  in  a  journey  of  five  days  you  meet  with  the  city 
Hedonda,^  a  colony  of  the  kingdom  of  Moranga,^  inclosed  in  Tibet 
From  the  names  of  Dominic,  Francis,  and  Antony,  still  in  use  with 
the  natives,  it  appeared  that  Christianity  had  been  planted  there  in 
times  past. 

In  the  first  letter  we  are  told  that  in  Moranga  he  saw  no  towns, 
but  only  houses,  or  rather  huts,  made  of  straw,  and  among  them  a 
custom-house.  The  King  pays  yearly  to  the  Great  Moghul  a  tribute  of 
250,000  rix  dollars  and  seven  elephants.  From  Hedonda  (crossing 
the  kingdom  of  Maranga),  in  eight  days  they  came  to  Mutgari,^  the 
first  city  of  the  Moghul's  empire.  From  Mutgari  is  a  journey  of  ten 
days  to  Batana,^  or  Patau,  which  is  a  city  of  Bengal,  on  the  Granges. 
From  Batana,  in  eight  days  they  came  to  Benares,  a  populous  city  on 
the  Ganges,  famous  for  an  academy  of  the  Brahmans,  where  persons 
are  instructed  in  their  religion  and  sciences.  From  Benares,  in  eleven 
days  they  came  to  Eatampur,^  and  from  thence  in  seven  more  to  Agra. 
So  that  from  Peking  thither  was  a  journey  of  214  days,  but  reckoning 
the  time  which  the  caravans  rest,  it  will  come  to  about  fourteen 
months.  Here  Dorville,  the  companion  of  Grueber  in  his  travels^ 
died.  The  author's  travels  from  Moranga  are  related,  with  some 
variation,  in  the  first  letter.  It  is  there  said  that  from  thence  he 
entered  India  and  came  to  Minapor,^  the  metropolis  of  the  country, 
where  he  crossed  the  Ganges,  twice  as  broad  as  the  Danube.    Thence 


'  Hitounda  of  Brian  Hodgson,  a 
town  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
44  koB  from  Keariah,  a  port  on  the 
Gandak,  and  19^  kos  from  Eathmandu. 
Mercbandiae  is  conveyed  by  bullocks 
from  the  river  to  Hitounda,  whence  it 
is  carried  over  the  mountains  by  ath- 
letic porters  (^Bengal  Selections,'  Ko. 
xxvii.p.22.    1857). 

*  Probably  the  Murung  or  Terai,  the 
swampy  region  between  the  mountains 
and  the  plains.  If  there  is  no  dis- 
crepancy in  connection  with  Radok, 
which  is  said    to  be    the    capital  of 


Moranga,  the  reference  may  be  to 
Bohtut,  a  district  of  the  Nepalese 
goyemment  of  the  Terai,  the  principal 
place  of  which  now  appears  to  be  Knt^ 
tioul.  (See  *  Eirkpntrick's  Nepal/  40, 
41,  and  the  map  of  Nepaul,  1855.) 

*  Mntrari,  *'the  first  city  of  the 
Moghul's  empire"  (reached  by  the 
missionaries).  This  is  Motihari,  in  the 
district  of  Sarun. 

*  The  city  of  Patna,  on  the  Gaagte& 
^  No  place  more  likely  than  Cawn- 

pore. 

*  Dinapiir. 


App.]  travels  op  GBUEBER.  301 

he  trayelled  to  the  city  Patna,  and  from  Patna  in  twenty-five  days  to 
Agra,  the  chief  royal  seat  of  the  Moghul's  empire,  eleven  months  after 
he  had  left  China. 

This  first  letter  furnishes  ns  also  with  an  accoont  of  his  travels 
from  Agra  to  Europe,  and  several  other  particulars  not  to  be  met  with 
in  EjTcher's  Memoirs.  From  Agra  he  got  in  six  days  to  Delhi,  and 
from  Delhi  in  fourteen  to  Lahore,  on  the  Bavi,  which  is  as  broad  as 
the  Danube,  and  falls  into  the  Indus,  near  Multan.  At  this  last  place 
he  embarked  on  the  Indus,  and  in  forty  days  journeyed  down  to  Tata, 
the  last  city  of  Hindustan,  and  residence  of  a  Viceroy  called 
Laskarkan.  Here  he  found  many  English  and  Dutch  merchants. 
From  thence,  sailing  to  Ormuz,  he  landed,  and  passing  through  Persia, 
Armenia,  and  Asia  Minor,  came  to  Smyrna,  where,  putting  again  to 
sea,  he  arrived  first  at  Messina,  and  then  at  Bome,  fourteen  months 
after  he  had  left  Agra. 

He  had  not  been  long  at  Bome  before  he  received  orders  to  return 
to  China.  Accordingly  he  went  into  Germany,  and  from  thence  to 
Poland,  with  a  design  to  cut  out  another  new  road  through  Bussia, 
having,  by  the  Emperor's  means,  obtained  passports  from  the  Dukes 
of  Curland  and  Muscovy.  But  when  he  arrived  on  the  borders  of 
Bussia,  news  came  that  the  King  of  Poland,  in  conjunction  with  the 
Tatars,  had  invaded  the  Grand  Duke's  dominions.  Fearing,  therefore, 
that  it  would  be  difficult  to  get  to  Moscow,  called  by  the  Tatars 
Stoliza,  he  thought  it  best  to  return  to  Venice,  which  he  did  just  at 
the  time  the  Emperor  was  sending  Count  Lesly  on  an  embassy  to  the 
Porte.  In  the  train  of  this  lord  he  travelled  to  Constantinople, 
designing  to  take  his  way  through  Natolia,  Persia,  and  the  Indies ; 
but  on  his  arrival  he  was  seized  with  a  violent  flux  and  pains  in  the 
stomach,  so  that,  being  unable  to  proceed,  he  returned  by  sea  to 
Leghorn,  and  thence  to  Florence.  Here  his  disorder  abating,  he 
repaired  to  Venice,  in  order  to  pass  through  Friuli  to  Vienna,  and  so 
to  Constantinople,  once  more  to  attempt  getting  to  China  by  that 
road.    But  how  he  succeeded  we  do  not  find.  ^ 

The  author,  in  1665,  when  he  set  out  on  his  return  to  China,  was 
about  forty-five  years  of  age,  of  an  afihble  temper  and  extremely  civil, 
joining  to  other  good  qualities  the  German  sincerity,  which  rendered 
his  conversation  perfectly  agreeable.  The  variations  found  in  the 
letters  seem  to  be  owing  to  the  defects  of  the  author's  memory,  and 
mistakes  of  those  who  took  the  relation  from  his  mouth.  With  regard 
to  the  Chinese  and  Tatars,  he  has  explained  some  things  more  fully 
than  other  authors  have  done,  as  well  as  related  others  in  a  different 
manner. 


302  JOUBNEY  OF  DE8IDEBI.  [Arr. 

Tablb  of  Latitudib  obsbbtkd  on  thi  Joubztkt.' 

O  I  H 

Sining 86  10  0 

LJiasa,  or  Baraatola 29      6  0 

Khatmandu        27      5  0 

HedoDda      26  36  0 

Batana,  on  GaDges 24  44  0 

BenarM,  on  Gbngefl 24  50  0 


IL 

A  Letter  from  Father  Ippolito  Dendert^  MMonary  of  ffte  Sodeiy  of 
JetUB,  to  Father  Udebrando  Qrasti^  a  Mieeionary  of  the  eame  Soeietjfj 
in  the  Kingdom  of  Mysore.  {Translated  from  a  French  trandation 
hy  Du  Hcdde  in  the  '  Let^es  Edijiantee,'  vol  xy.  p.  184.) 

Lhasa,  April  10,  1716.' 

Rbybbxnd  Fathbb, — The  peace  of  our  Lord  be  with  you.   Having 
been  appointed  to  the  Tibetan  mission,  I  left  Goa  on  the  20th  of 
Noyember,  1718,  and  arriyed  at  Snrat  on  the  4th  of  Janoary,  1714. 
Being  compelled  to  sojourn  here  awhile,  I  took  advantage  of  my 
leisure  to  learn  Persian.    On  the  26th  of  March  I  set  out  for  Delhi, 
whither  I  arrived  on  the  11th  of  May,  and  where  I  joined  company 
with  Father  Manuel  Freyre,  who  had  been  appointed  to  the  same 
mission  as  myself.    On  the  23rd  of  September  we  together  began  our 
journey  towards  Tibet.  *  We  went  by  way  of  Lahore,  which  we 
reached  on  the  10th  of  October,  and  where  we  had  the  pious  satis&e- 
tion  of  administering  the  sacraments  of  repentance  and  the  Eucharist 
to  some  Christians,  who  were  bereft  of  any  spiritual  pastor.    We  left 
Lahore  on  the  19th  of  October,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  days 
reached  the  foot  of  the  Caucasus. 

The  Caucasus  is  a  long  range,  consisting  of  remarkably  steep  and 
lofty  mountains.  After  crossing  one  mountain  you  encounter  a  seooDd 
still  higher ;  this  is  in  turn  succeeded  by  a  third,  higher  than  either 
of  the  two  former  ones ;  and  the  fisurther  yon  go  the  higher  you  climk» 
till  you  reach  the  highest  of  all,  named  Per-PangiaL^ 

*  These  latitadee,  acoording  to  the  latest  authorities,  shonld  be  as  follows:— 

O  I         1 


86 

89 

20 

Jesuit  surveys. 

27 

26 

0 

Pundit. 

29 

89 

17 

Pundit 

25 

85 

0 

ludiaii  surv^. 

27 

41 

28 

i» 

25 

17 

0 

n 

*  Pir  PuDJal,  a  pass  on  the  first  range  of  the  Himalaya,  which  is  crosnd  ia 
going  to  Kashmir. 


Apr.]  JOURNEY  OF  DESIDERI.  303 

The  Gentiles  hold  this  mountain  in  great  awe;  they  bring 
offerings  to  it,  and  in  their  superstition  worship  a  yenerable  old  man, 
whom  they  belieye  to  be  guardian  of  the  region.  Herein  is  doubtless 
contained  a  reminisoence  of  the  fable  of  Prometheus,  who,  according 
to  the  poets,  was  bound  in  chains  to  the  Caucasus. 

The  summits  of  the  highest  mountains  are  always  coyered  with 
snow  and  ice.  We  took  twelye  days  to  trayerse  these  mountains  on 
foot,  crossing  at  times,  with  incredible  difficulty,  impetuous  torrents, 
which,  formed  by  the  melting  of  the  snow,  dash  down  with  extreme 
yiolence  amid  rocks  and  boulders.  The  torrents  which  we  had  oyer 
and  anon  to  stem,  and  the  rocks,  made  it  an  extremely  difficult  business 
to  get  across,  and  often  was  I  compelled  to  hang  on  by  the  tail  of  a 
bullock  to  avoid  being  carried  away  by  the  force  of  the  stream.  I  do 
not  speak  of  the  extreme  cold  I  had  to  suffer,  through  not  haying 
tfikken  the  precaution  to  obtain  clothing  suitable  for  so  rude  a  climate. 

This  country  of  mountains,  though  in  other  respects  so  inhos- 
pitable, is  pleasing  through  the  number  and  variety  of  its  trees,  the 
fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  different  races  which  inhabit  it.  Some 
petty  States  here  are  dependent  on  the  Moghul.  The  roads  are 
nowhere  impracticable  for  a  horseman  or  for  a  jampan,  a  sort  of 
palanquin. 

On  the  10th  of  March  ^  we  arrived  at  Kashmir.  The  enormous 
quantity  of  snow  which  falls  during  winter,  and  which  absolutely 
closes  up  the  passes,  obliged  us  to  remain  there  for  six  months.  An 
illness,  apparently  caused  by  the  first  hardships  I  had  undergone, 
reduced  me  to  the  last  extremity.  I  did  not  fail  in  continuing  my 
study  of  Persian,  and  in  making  inquiries  respecting  Tibet;  but 
though  I  took  every  pains,  I  could  only  learn  about  two  Tibets.  One 
extends  from  the  north  to  the  west,  and  is  called  Little  Tibet,  or 
Baltistan.  It  is  a  few  days'  journey  from  Kashmir,  and  its  inhabi- 
tants and  its  princes  are  Muhammadans  and  tributaries  of  the  MoghuL 
However  fertile  this  country  may  be  in  other  respects,  it  is  sure  to  be 
barren  as  far  as  preachers  of  the  Gospel  are  concerned ;  for  a  long 
experience  has  taught  us  only  too  surely  to  expect  but  little  fruit  in 
countries  where  rules  the  impious  Muhammadan  race. 

The  other  Tibet,  which  is  called  Great  Tibet,  or  Bhutan,  extends 
from  the  north  to  the  east,  and  is  rather  more  distant  from  Kashmir. 
The  route  thither  is  pretty  well  frequented  by  caravans,  which  go 
every  year  in  quest  of  wool,  and  as  a  rule  runs  through  defiles.  The 
first  six  or  seven  days'  journey  are  not  very  trying ;  but  as  one  goes 
on  travelling  becomes  very  difficult,  through  the  wind,  the  snow,  and 
the  excessive  rigour  of  the  biting  frosts,  to  which  must  be  added 

*  Maroh  appears  to  be  written  in  mistake  for  November. 


304  JOURNEY  OF  DESIDERI.  [App. 

having  to  rest  at  night  on  the  hare  ground,  and  at  times  on  snow 
and  ice. 

Great  Tihet  hegins  at  the  summit  of  an  enormous  snow-dad 
mountain,  called  Eantel.^  One  side  of  the  mountain  belongs  to 
Kashmir,  and  the  other  to  Tibet.  We  had  left  Kashmir  on  the  17th  of 
May,  1715,  and  on  the  30ih,  the  festival  of  our  Lord's  Ascension,  we 
crossed  the  mountain  and  entered  Tibet.  Much  snow  had  fallen  on 
the  path,  which  winds  between  mountains  as  far  as  Leh,  or  Ladak,  the 
fortress  where  the  King  resides,  which  are  the  very  picture  of  desola- 
tion, horror,  and  death  itself.  They  are  piled  one  atop  of  another, 
and  so  close  as  scarcely  to  leave  room  for  the  torrents  which  course 
impetuously  from  their  heights,  and  dash  with  such  deafening  noise 
against  the  rocks  as  to  appal  the  stoutest  traveller.  Above  and 
at  their  foot  the  mountains  are  equally  impassable ;  you  are  there- 
fore forced  to  make  your  way  about  half  way  down  the  slope,  and 
the  path,  as  a  rule,  is  so  narrow  as  barely  to  leave  room  for  you  to 
set  down  your  feet ;  this  obliges  you  to  pick  your  way  with  extreme 
care.  A  false  step,  and  you  are  precipitated  down  the  abyss  with 
the  loss  of  your  life,  or  at  the  least  with  broken  limbs,  as  befel  some 
of  our  fellow-travellers.  Were  there  bushes  you  might  ciiug  by 
them,  but  these  mountains  are  so  barren  that  neither  plants  nor  even 
a  blade  of  grass  grows  thereon.  Would  you  wish  to  cross  from  one 
mountain  to  another,  you  must  pass  over  the  foaming  torrents  between, 
and  there  is  no  bridge,  save  some  narrow,  unsteady  planks,  or  some 
ropes  stretched  across  and  interwoven  with  green  branches.  Often 
you  are  obliged  to  take  off  your  shoes  in  order  to  get  a  better  foot- 
hold. I  assure  you  that  I  shudder  now  at  the  bare  remembrance 
of  these  dreadful  episodes  in  our  journey. 

Trying  as  the  climate  is,  there  is  no  food  save  the  flour  made 
from  haUUf^  which  is  a  kind  of  barley.  The  people  of  the  country  eat 
it  unprepared ;  but  we  generally  made  a  broth  of  it,  and  it  was  no 
small  thing  for  us  to  get  enough  wood  to  cook  it. 

One's  eyes  are  terribly  tired  with  the  reflection  of  the  ami's  rajs 
from  the  snow,  which  dazzles  and  nearly  blinds  them.  I  was  obliged 
to  bandage  mine,  and  admit  only  just  enou^  light  to  see  my  way. 
Then,  every  other  day  or  so,  we  encountered  customs  officers,  who, 

>  Acoording  to  Vigne,  the  summit  of  quinua  of  Peru.     It  is  oultivated  at 

Bultul  (Zoji  la  pass)  is  the  Mount  heights  of  more  than  5000  feet,  chieflf 

Kantul  of  tiie  old  maps.    It  is  north-  for  its  grain,  but  the  leaves  are  alsi> 

east  of  Srinagar  (Kashmir),  on  the  road  used    as    a    pot-herb.     (See  *  Punjab 

to  Baltistan  (Little  Tibet).  Plants,'  by  J.  L.  Stewart,  M.D.,  Laboie, 

*  A  chenopodiumj  something  like  the  1869,  p.  179.) 


Afp.]  JOUBNET  of  DE8IDERI.  805 

not  oontent  with  demanding  the  nBnal  dues,  exacted  all  they  pleased 
by  any  right  they  fancied. 

In  these  monntainons  r^ons  there  are  no  large  towns.  There  is 
no  particular  coinage,  that  of  the  Moghnl  being  chiefly  used ;  each 
piece  of  money  is  worth  five  Boman  Giaglii.  Trading  is  nsnally 
carried  on  by  exchange  of  goods.  The  journey  from  Kashmir  to 
Ladak  we  made  on  foot,  and  it  lasted  forty  days,  so  that  we  reached 
the  last-named  place  on  the  25th  of  Jane.  The  kingdom  of  the 
second  Tibet  begins,  as  I  have  already  remarked,  at  Mount  Eantd,^ 
and  extends  north-eastwards.  There  is  only  one  Gyampo,  or  soye- 
reign  ruler ;  the  present  one  is  called  Nima  Nangial,  and  he  has  a 
tributary  king  below  him.  The  first  races  one  meets  are  Muham- 
madans ;  afterwards  they  are  Gentiles,  but  less  superstitious  than 
idolatrous  nations  usually  are. 

Here  is  what  I  learnt  of  the  Tibetan  religion.  They  call  God 
Konciok ;  and  they  appear  to  have  some  notion  of  the  Holy  Trinity, 
for  at  times  they  call  him  Eonchok-chik  (one  God),  and  at  other  times 
Eonchok-sum  (three  Gk)ds).  They  use  a  kind  of  chaplet,  oyer  which 
ihey  repeat  these  words  :  Om,  Aa,  hum.  This  they  explain  by  saying 
that  Om  signifies  knowledge  or  an  arm,  that  is,  power;  ha  is  the 
word,  and  hum  is  the  heart  or  loye,  and  that  these  three  words  mean 
God.^  They  also  worship  a  being  called  Urghien,  who,  so  they  say, 
was  bom  seyen  hundred  years  ago.  When  asked  if  he  be  Qod,  or  man, 
some  reply  that  he  is  both  Qod  and  man,  that  he  has  neither  father 
nor  mother,  but  that  he  was  bom  of  a  flower.  Neyertheless  they  haye 
statues  representing  a  woman  with  a  flower  in  her  hand,  and  her  they 
call  the  mother  of  Urghien.  Many  other  personages  do  they  worship 
and  treat  as  saints.  In  their  churches  you  may  see  an  altar  coyered 
with  a  cloth  and  ornaments ;  in  the  middle  of  the  altar  is  a  kind  of 
tabernacle,  wherein,  as  they  say,  Urghien  dwells,  though  there  are 
some  who  assert  he  is  in  heayen. 

The  Tibetans  haye  priests,  called  lamas.  They  are  clad  in  a 
uniform  different  from  laymen;  they  neither  plait  their  hair  nor 
carry  earrings,  as  other  men,  but  wear  a  tonsure  like  our  eccle- 
siastics, and  haye  to  obserye  perpetual  celibacy.  Their  occupation  is 
to  study  the  books  of  the  law,  which  are  written  in  a  tongue  and  in 
characters  differing  from  those  ordinarily  in  use.  They  recite  certain 
prayers  in  choras;  and  theirs  it  is  to  celebrate  rites,  to  present 
offerings  in  the  temple,  and  to  light  the  sacred  lamps  there.  They 
offer  up  wheat,  barley,  paste  and  water,  in  little  yessels  of  scrupulous 
eleanlinees.    Where  an  offering  has  been  made,  the  remainder  of  the 

»  See  ante,  p.  304.         •  Om  mani  padmi  lium.    (See  pp.  1,  29,  32,  387.) 

X 


306  JOUBKEY  OF  DESIDERI.  [App. 

food  is  eaten  as  if  it  weire  oonsecrated.  The  lamas  are  greatly 
respected ;  as  a  mle,  they  live  together,  shut  out  from  all  profane 
intercourse ;  they  hare  local  superiors,  and  also  a  general  superior, 
whom  the  King  himself  treats  with  great  veneration. 

The  King  and  many  of  his  court  look  upon  us  as  lamas  of  the 
faith  of  Jesus  Christ,  who  have  come  from  Europe.  When  he  saw  us 
reciting  our  prayers,  he  was  curious  to  see  what  books  we  were 
reading,  and  he  eagerly  inquired  the  meaning  of  the  various  figures 
therein  depicted.  After  having  carefully  examined  them,  some  of  them 
said  among  themselves,  **  iVuru,"  that  is,  very  good.  They  remarked 
two  things :  firstly,  that  their  book  was  very  like  ours.  This  simi- 
larity I  fiuled  to  perceive ;  but  one  thing  I  am  certain  of  is,  that 
though  many  may  know  how  to  read  their  mysterious  books,  not  one 
can  explain  them.  The  second  observation  they  made  was :  ^  Oh  1  if 
you  knew  our  language,  or  if  we  understood  yours,  what  pleasure  it 
would  give  us  to  hear  you  expound  your  religion."  This  proves  that 
this  people  is  well  disposed  to  taste  of  Christian  truths. 

The  Tibetans  are  naturally  gentle,  but  uncultivated  and  ooarse. 
There  are  neither  arts  nor  sciences  among  them,  though  they  are  not 
wanting  in  intelligence.  They  have  no  communications  with  other 
nations ;  no  sort  of  meat  is  forbidden  to  them ;  they  do  not  hold  the 
doctrine  of  the  transmigration  of  souls,  and  do  not  practise  polygamy ; 
three  points  in  which  they  di£Eer  widely  from  the  idolatrous  natives 
of  India. 

As  you  may  have  learnt  from  what  I  have  said,  the  climate  is 
very  severe,  and  winter  prevaQs  nearly  all  the  year  round.  The 
mountain  tops  are  always  covered  with  snow ;  the  soil  yields  only 
wheat  and  barley;  trees,  fruits,  and  vegetables  being  rarely  seen. 
The  houses  are  small,  narrow,  and  built  of  stones  piled  in  rude 
fashion  one  above  the  other.  They  use  nothing  but  woollen  Btu£k  for 
their  clothes.  While  we  were  at  Ladak  we  had  no  other  lodging  but 
the  hut  of  a  poor  Eashmirian  who  lived  on  charity. 

Two  days  after  our  arrival  we  went  to  call  on  the  Lompo,  who  is 
next  in  rank  to  the  King,  and  commonly  called  his  right  arm.  On 
the  2nd  of  July  we  had  our  first  audience  of  the  King  himsdf,  who 
received  us  seated  on  his  throne.  On  the  4th  and  8th  we  were  again 
summoned  to  his  presence,  and  he  then  treated  us  more  fiuniliarly. 
On  the  6th  we  paid  our  respects  to  the  Grand  Lama.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  several  other  Lamas,  one  of  whom  was  a  son  of  Lompo,  and 
another  a  near  relative  of  the  King.  They  received  us  most  honour- 
ably, and  presented  us  with  some  refreshments,  as  is  the  custom  o£ 
the  country. 


App.]  journey  op  DB8IDERI.  307 

These  honours  and  tokens  of  Mendship  did  not,  howeyer,  drive  all 
anxiety  from  us.  The  wool  trade  serves  to  draw  many  Muhammadans 
from  Kashmir  to  Ladak.  Some  of  these,  prompted  either  by  jealousy 
or  hatred  of  the  very  name  of  Christians,  told  the  King  and  his 
ministers  that  we  were  in  reality  rich  merchants,  with  pearls, 
diamonds,  rubies,  jewels  of  various  sorts,  and  other  valuable  com- 
modities in  our  possession.  An  oBLcer  of  the  court  came  to  our 
lodgings ;  everything  was  opened  before  him,  and  the  report  he  made 
thereon  excited  the  King's  curiosity.  His  Majesty  ordered  to  be 
brought  unto  him  a  basket  and  a  leather  bag,  in  which  we  carried  our 
smaller  efiects,  such  as  linen,  books,  writings,  some  instruments  for 
self-mortification,  chaplets,  and  medals.  The  King  examined  every- 
thing, and  then  openly  declared  that  it  gave  him  greater  pleasure  to 
inspect  goods  of  this  sort  than  to  see  pearls  and  rubies. 

A£Burs  were  in  this  state,  and  I  was  thinking  of  tarrying  in  a 
country  where  I  had  resolved  to  suffer  whatever  it  might  please 
Providence  to  inflict  upon  me;  I  was  in  the  highest  degree  over- 
joyed at  having  found  a  settled  State,  where  I  could  labour  towards 
the  salvation  of  men's  souls ;  I  was  already  beginning  to  learn  the 
language,  with  the  hope  of  seeing  some  of  my  teaching  bring  forth, 
even  among  these  barren  rocks,  fruit  acceptable  in  the  sight  of  Him, 
when  we  learnt  that  there  was  a  third  Tibet.  After  several  consulta- 
tions, it  was  decided,  against  my  wish,  that  we  should  go  thither  and 
discover  it  The  journey  takes  usually  from  about  six  to  seven 
months,  and  the  route  lies  through  countries  of  deserted  aspect,  and 
scantily  peopled.  This  third  Tibet  is  more  exposed  to  the  incursions 
of  the  border  Tatars  than  the  other  two  Tibets. 

We  left  Ladak  on  the  17th  of  August,  1715,  and  we  arrived  at 

Lhasa,  whence  I  have  the  honour  to  address  you,  on  the  18th  of 

March,  1716.     I  leave  you  to  imagine  what  I  had  to  suffer  during 

this  journey,  what  with  snow,  ice,  and  the  excessive  cold  of  these 

mountains.    Shortly  after  our  arrival,  certain  tribunals  of  the  country 

occasioned  us  a  good  deal  of  annoyance.    Thanks  to  God,  this  storm 

was  appeased  in  the  following  manner.     I  was  passing  by  the  palace 

to  attend  one  of  the  tribunals,  when  the  King,  who  was  seated  in  a 

balcony  with  one  of  his  ministers,  happened  to  be  informed  who  I  was. 

Oar  case  had  been  made  known  to  this  minister,  who  is  a  thoroughly 

jnst  and  equitable  man,  and  he  took  occasion  to  represent  to  the 

prince  the  wrong  that  was  being  done  to  us.    The  King  immediately 

sununoned  me  to  his  presence,  and  gave  orders  that  we  should  be 

no  more  troubled. 

A  few  days  after  I  called  upon  the  minister  referred  to,  and  he 

X  2 


808  JOURNEY  OF  DESIDERL  [App. 

good-naturedly  rebuked  me  for  not  haying  yet  presented  myself  to 
the  Eong.    I  excused  myself  on  the  ground  that  the  custom  of  the 
country  did  not  allow  people  to  approach  those  in  authority  without 
malring  them  some  present,  and  that  I  had  nothing  worthy  of  so 
great  a  monarch's  acceptance.    My  excuse,  though  genuine,  was  not 
listened  to.    I  was  obliged  to  obey,  and  repaired  to  the  pahioe.  More 
than  a  hundred  people  of  consequence  were  awaiting  audience  in  the 
halL    Two  officers  took  down  their  names,  according  to  custom,  and 
carried  the  paper  in  to  the  Eling,  who  immediately  gaye  orders  for  my 
admittance  together  with  a  Grand  Lama.    The  Lama's  present  was  a 
handsome  one,  while  mine  was  quite  insignificant ;  but  neyertheless 
that  of  the  Lama  was  deposited  at  the  entrance,  according  to  custom, 
while  the  King  ordered  mine  to  be  brought  to  him,  and  to  show  how 
pleased  he  was  with  it,  kept  it  by  him.    This  in  the  court  is  con- 
sidered an  exceptional  mark  of  fayour.  He  made  me  sit  down  opposite 
to  him  and  quite  close,  and  for  the  space  of  two  hours  plied  me  with 
innumerable  questions,  without  speaking  a  word  to  the  others  present. 
At  last,  haying  made  my  final  compHments,  he  bade  me  good-bye. 
On  seyeral  occasions  after  my  first  yisit  I  stroye  to  take  adyantage  of 
the  Eing*s  kindly  disposition  and  to  discourse  of  our  holy  religion, 
and  of  the  mission  I  wished  to  undertake  in  his  kingdom,  but  un- 
fortunately I  had  no  opportunity  of  doing  this.    This  monarch  is  of 
Tatar  race,  and  some  years  ago  he  conquered  this  country,  whidi  is 
not  yery  fur  from  Ohina,  for  it  takes  only  four  months  to  trayel  hence 
to  Peking.    Not  long  since  an  enyoy  came  thence,  and  he  has  since 
returned  to  Peking. 

Haying  giyen  you,  Beyerend  father,  this  brief  account  of  my 
trayels,  and  of  what  has  happened  since  my  arriyal  in  the  capital  of 
the  third  (proyince  of)  Tibet,  it  only  remains  for  me  to  entreat  the 
aid  of  your  prayers.  After  undergoing  so  much  suffering,  I  need 
them  sorely  to  sustain  me  in  the  labours  of  the  ministration  to  which 
by  Diyine  fayour  I  haye  been  called,  all  unworthy  though  I  be.  In 
the  hope  of  sharing  the  blessings  of  your  holy  offices,  I  subscribe 
myself,  &c., 

Ipfoijto  Dksidsbi. 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PKNNA.  S09 


III. 
BBIEP  ACCOUNT  OP  THE  KINGDOM  OP  TIBET, 

BT 
PrA   PrANOESOO  ObAZIO   DELLA  FiNNA   DI  BlLLI,^ 

1780.2 

The  word  Tibet  is  a  Tatar  oormptioii,  the  proper  term  being  Thobot, 
or  Tangat  katzar.  Tangat  means  dwellers  in  houses,  and  katzar 
ooontry  or  kingdom ;  so  tiie  whole  expression  signifies  "  the  kingdom 
of  dwdlers  in  houses,"  the  Tatars  dwelling  in  tents  of  felt,  or  of  a 
coarse  material  woyen  from  the  hair  of  the  yak  or  hairy  ox,  and  the 
Tibetans  in  honses.  Tibet,  in  the  language  of  the  country,  is  called 
Fodt,  and  the  inhabitants  Podt  ba,  while  in  the  language  of  Nekpal  it 
is  called  Seen,  and  a  Tibetan,  Seena.  In  Hindustani,  Tibet  is  called 
Butant,  and  a  Tibetan  Butia.     The  capital  of  Tibet  is  called  Baron- 

'  thala  in  the  Tatar  tongue.  Baron  signifies  right,  tha  towards,  and  la 
south ;  BO  the  whole  means,  on  the  right  hand,  southward.  In  the 
Tibetan  tongue  it  is  called  Lhana^  which  meons  Land  of  God. 

According  to  the  royal  ministers,  who  are  expressly  charged  with 

the  duty  of  keeping  count  of  the  numbers  of  the  population  of  the 

whole  kingdom,  the  total  amounts  to  thirty-three  millions,'  of  whom 

690,000  are  soldiers.    The  families  of  those  provinces  which  have 

to  furnish  youths  to  be  monks  are  exempt  from  supplying  soldiers. 

The  provinces  of  U  and  Tzang  together  contribute  130,000  soldiers, 

at  the  rate  of  one  for  every  three  fEunilies.    The  state  of  Eham 

contributes  360,000  soldiers  at  the  same  rate,  while  those  of  Ngari 

and  Chang  maintain  100,000  each,  at  the  rate  of  one  for  each  family. 

From  the  states  of  Hor  and  Amdoa  no  soldiers  are  taken,  from 

motives  of  mistrust,  as  the  first  are  adherents  of  the  Tatar  rather 

than  the  Tibetan  cause,  and  usually  speak  the  Tatar  language,  while 

the  second  dwell  on  the  confines  of  China  beyond  the  Great  Wall,  and 

speak  more  Tibetan  than  Tatar  and  Chinese.    The  provinces  of 

'  FianoiB  Horace  were  the  author's  in  a  different  position,  twenty  miles 

baptismal  names.     Penna  di  Billi  is  W.N.W.  of  Urbino. 

the  name  of  the  district  where  he  was  '  Published  by  Klaproth,  from  the 

bom.   It  is  situated  in  the  march  of  An-  autograph  manuscript  of  the  author. 

cona,  about  twenty  miles  from  Maoerata.  '  Klaproth  thinks  this  an  exaggera- 

K.ei  th  Johnston's  *  Gazetteer '  places  it  tion,  and  would  fix  it  at  five  millions  only. 


310 


HORACE  DELLA  PBNNA. 


[App. 


Eombo  and  Takpo  fomiBh  soldiers  in  the  same  way  as  the  other  states. 
The  figures  I  have  omitted  to  notice,  and  mast  give  them  conjec- 
turally.  I  think  that  together  they  may  supply  140,000  soldiers, 
one  from  every  three  families.  The  kingdoms  of  Brukpa'  (in  Hin- 
dustani, Laltopiyala),  Lata  or  Ladak,  and  Nekpal  are  now  subject  to 
and  hare  voluntarily  made  themselves  tributary  to  Tibet,  after  the 
Emperor  of  China  had  made  himself  master  of  it. 

The  foUowing  are  the  kingdoms  and  provinces  of  Tibet:  the 
kingdom  of  Lata  or  Ladak,  which  to  the  west  abuts  on  Kashmir,  to 
the  south  the  Mogol,  to  the  'east  Ngari,  and  to  the  north  Tatary  and 
(I  believe)  the  Usbek  Tartars. 

Ngari  is  divided  into  three  provinces,  Ngari  Sankar,  Ngari  Furang, 
and  Ngari  Tamo.    Ngari  Sankar  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  Lata,  on 
the  north  by  Tatary,  and  (I  believe)  by  Gaskar  or  Easkar,  on  the 
east  by  Ngari  Purang,  and  on  the  south  by  the  Mogol.      Ngari 
Furang  is  bounded  by  Ngari  Sankar  on  the  north,  and  for  two  points 
on  the  west,  on  the  north  by  Tatary,  on  the  east  by  Ngari  Tamo,  and 
on  the  south  by  the  Mogol.    Ngari  Tamo  is  bounded  on  the  west  by 
Ngari  Furang,  on  the  north  by  Tatary,  on  the  east  by  the  province  of 
Tzang,  and  on  the  south  by  the  Mogol.     The  province  of  Tzang 
is  bounded  by  Nekpal  on  the  west,  on  the  north  by  Ngari  Tamo, 
on  the  south  by  Lho  ten  ke  and  Bregion,^  and  on  the  east  by 
the  province  of  U.    Towards  the  west  the  furthermost  town  of 
Tzang    is  called  in   Hindustani    Euti    or  bitch,   and  in   Tibetan 
Gnialam  and  Tzongtu,  which  means  the  place  whither  the  merchants, 
resort  to  bargain  with  one   another.     The   easternmost  place   is 
called  Eambala,  which  is  the  name  of  a  great  mountain,  on  the 
slopes  of  which  are  many  (inhabited)  places,  and  in  the  plain  at 
the  foot  to  the  south  is  a  great  lake  called  landro,^  which  is  eighteen 
days'  journey  round,  according  to  those  who  have  made  the  cironit, 
but  within  are  some  hiUy  islands.     The  same  lake  has  no  outlet 
that  I  know  of,  and  during  a  day  and  half's  march  round  it,  I 
can  vouch  that  I  saw  none ;  w  hile  as  regards  the  remaining  portion, 
I  have  the  authority  of  those  who  have  made  its  circuit    To  pass 

inhabited  by  some  men  who  pasture 
herds  of  yaks.  BCany  fishermen  alao 
live  there :  their  boats  are  of  leather. 
The  lake  is  very  full  of  fish,  but  its 
waters  are  salt  and  bitter.  See  the 
*<  Description  of  Tihet,"  in  the  second 
vol.  of  my  '  Magasin  Asiatiqae '  (Paris, 
1826,  8yo.X  p.  285,  and  '  Nouyean  Jam- 
nal  Asiatiqae/  vol.  iv.  p.  295.    (KL) 


»  Bhutan.    (C.R.M.) 
•  Sikkim.    (Klaproth.) 


*  Probably  the  correct  spelling  is 
Yang  dhro,  warm  and  extensive.  The 
Tibet  name  is  Phal  dhi  yn  mthso,  or 
the  lake  of  the  turquoises  of  Fhal-dhi, 
a  town  or  village  to  the  north  of  the 
lake.  In  the  middle  of  the  lake  are 
three  mountainous  islands,  named  Mi- 
naba,  Sangri,  and  Yabotu,  which  arc 


App.] 


HORACE  DELIA  PENNA. 


811 


Mount  Eambala  one  has  to  ascend  oertainly  for  half  a  mile,  and  then 
to  descend  for  five  good  miles,  after  which  one  comes  upon  a  very 
large  river  called  Chasnm,  Tzampo,  or  Tzangchn,^  which  rises  in 
Ngari.  It  passes  three  days'  journey  distant  from  Lhasa,  and  con- 
tinues its  course  under  the  fortress  of  Sgikakungar,^  and  before 
arriving  at  Takpo  Oini  it  loses  itself,  during  a  whole  day's  journey,  in 
Lhoga ;  ^  they  say  also  that  it  flows  under  a  mountain,  because  after 
passing  this  mountain  one  comes  upon  the  river  again ;  from  Takpo  it 
passes  by  Eombo,  and  they  say  that  it  joins  the  Ganges  towards  Ragmati 
or  Shategang.  The  capital  of  this  province  (Tzang)  is  called  Sgigatze.* 
The  kingdom  of  Bregion,  or  Bramashon,^  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  province  of  Tzang,  to  the  south  by  Mon  Altibari  and  Brukpa, 
or  Laltopivala,  to  the  east  and  south  by  Lhoba,  to  the  east  by  Eako 
and  Eombo,  and  to  the  west  by  Maronga  and  Nekpal. 

The  province  of  U  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  Tzang,  on  the  east 
by  Sharbigonti,  on  the  south  by  Ldha  and  Takpo,  on  the  north  by 
Chang,  while  its  extreme  points  are  Eambala,  Sharbigonti,  Talung, 
and  Eatren,  in  the  west,  east,  and  north  respectively.  The  capital  of 
U  is  Lhasa,  and  near  this  city  flows  the  river  Tsangchu,  which  rises 
in  Sharbigonti,  and  joins  the  river  Chasum,  near  Chuchur,  three 
days' journey  from  Lhasa.  XJ  signifies  ^'middle,"  as  this  province  is 
in  the  middle  of  Tibet ;  and  Lhasa,  which  is  situated  in  the  middle 
of  the  province,  is  called  the  navel  of  the  wealthy  kingdom  of  Tibet. 

The  province  of  Ohang  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  Ngari,  on  the 
north  by  Eokonor,  on  the  east  by  Eham,  on  the  south  by  U.  In  the 
province  of  Chang  is  situated  the  duchy  of  Dam,  which  is  eight  days 
distant  from  Lhasa,  and  in  Dam  there  is  nothing  else  but  the  palace 
belonging  to  the  King  and  his  court,  the  remainder  of  the  inhabitants 
(which  are  mostly  Tatars  and  the  other  Tibetans)  dwelling  in  tents 
of  felt  and  of  cloth  woven  out  of  hair.  Two  days  distant  from  Dam  is 
Nak  chu  ka,  where  is  the  last  fortress  of  Tibet,  but  no  other  dwellings 
except  tents,  as  before  mentioned.     In  this  place  there  flows  a  large 


>  This  river  is  generally  oalledTsang 
po  tsiD,  or  the  pure  water.    (Kl.) 

'  A  fortress  on  the  right  of  the 
Tsangchu  and  to  the  north-east  of 
Lake  Yang  mtso.  Bobbers  are  gene- 
rally drowned  in  the  river,  but  some- 
times as  an  act  of  favour  they  are  sent 
to  Bgikaknngar,  or  Ji-ka-ghong-kar, 
where  the  unhealthinees  of  the  spot 
usually  kills  them  within  a  year.  (El.) 

'  L'ho  ka^  or  L'ho  k'ha  pha,  is  the 


name  of  some  cannibal  mountain  tribes 
north  and  north-east  of  Assam.  (EI.) 

*  One  of  the  largest  towns  of  Tibet, 
situated  about  one  kos  north-east  of 
Tashi-lumbo.  The  river  Churerku, 
which  is  very  deep  and  about  three 
hundred  paces  wide,  flows  two  or  three 
hundred  yards  distant.  It  is  crossed 
by  an  iron  bridge  on  eight  arches,  called 
Sambachur,  or  the  eastern  bridge.  (Kl.) 

5  Sikkim.  (C.  R.  M.) 


812  HOBACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

riTer  oalledNak  oha,^  which  means  black  water,  and  has  given  the  name 
to  the  place.  For  abont  forty  days'  jonmey  there  are  no  more  houses  to 
be  seen,  bat  only  tents  and  nnmerons  herds  of  yaks  or  hairy  oxen,  flocks, 
and  horses ;  trayellers  can  buy  nothing  to  eat  but  meat  and  batter, 
and  are  obliged  to  carry  everything  else  with  them.  After  traversii^ 
this  country  one  reaches  a  very  large  river  called  Bicha,^  which,  as 
Signer  Samuel  Van  der,'  a  native  of  Fleshingh,  in  the  province  of 
Zeland,  in  Holland,  has  written  of  it,  is  so  large,  that  to  cross  it  in 
boats  of  skins  he  embarked  in  the  morning,  and  landed  on  an  island 
in  the  evening,  and  coold  not  complete  the  passage  across  till  the 
middle  of  the  following  day.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  river  there  is  a 
large  population,  whic^  live  in  tents.  At  the  distance  of  about  a 
month's  journey  hence  one  comes  to  Zoloma,*  the  people  of  which 
also  live  in  tents,  and  after  five  days'  journey  more  one  reaches 
Eokonor,  which  is  the  northernmost  limit  of  Tibet  in  this  direction. 

The  province  of  Takpo  is  pretty  extensive,  and  is  divided  into 
seven  districts,  among  which  are  Takpo  Ghini,  where  the  Capuchin 
missionaries  have  a  hospice,  and  Takpo  Ohara,  which  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  U,  on  the  south  by  Eombo,  on  the  east  by  Eham,  and 
on  the  west  by  Tzang. 

The  province  of  Eombo  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Takpo,  on  the 
east  by  Eham,  on  the  west  by  Bregion  and  Lhobei,  and  on  the  south 
by  Lh6  k*haptr^,  Lho  meaning  south,  Ji^ha  mouth,  and  ptrd  cut,  because 
in  infancy  the  lips  of  the  children  are  cut  and  coloured  red,  yellow, 
blue,  and  otherwise  in  the  incisions. 

Eham  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  Bikum,  Takpo,  and  Eombo,  on 
the  north  by  Eokonor  and  Chang,  on  the  east  by  Tarchenton,  China, 
and  Amdoa,  and  towards  the  south  by  Bengal,  Siam,  or  Pegu  and 
Tonquin.  The  state  of  Eham  is  divided  into  the  following  twelve 
provinces:  (1)  Tzava  Eham,  which  is  bounded  on  the  west  by 
Bikum  and  Takpo,  on  the  east  by  Pombor  Eham,  and  on  the  soa^ 
by  Lh6  k'haptr^.  (2)  Pombor  Eham,  which  is  bounded  on  the  west 
by  Tzava  E^ham,  on  the  east  by  Mingara  Eham,  on  the  south  by 
Bengal,  and  on  the  north  by  Bichu.  (3)  Mingara  Eham,  which  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  Pombor  Eham,  on  the  east  by  China,  and,  it 
is  believed,  by  the  province  of  Chentofu  and  Amdoa,  on  the  south, 
as  far  as  it  is  believed,  by  Pegu,  and  on  the  north  by  Eokonor. 
(4)  Eetong  Eham,  which  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  Eombo,  on  the 
east  by  Tzava  Eham,  to  the  south,  as  &r  as  is  known,  by  Pega  cat 

'  The  upper  Lu-kiang.    (El.)  *  "  The  junction  of  three  rivers," 

*  The  Munii-ussu,  or  Upper  Yang-      where  the  road  from  Sining  to  Lhaaa 

tse-kiang.  (Kl)  oroeses  the  upper  Hoang-ho.  (Kl.) 

»  Van  de  Putte.    See  p.  Ixii  of  In- 

roduction. 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  813 

Siam,  and  on  the  north  by  Eokonor.  (5)  Ohnngbn  Eliam,  which  on 
the  west  is  bonnded  by  Talung,  on  the  east  by  Chamto,  on  the  south 
by  Shopado,  and  on  the  north  by  Ghang.  (6)  Eonchudom  Eham, 
which  on  the  east  is  bounded  by  Eemorang,  on  the  west  by  Chang, 
in  the  direction  of  Dam,  on  the  north  by  Eokonor,  on  the  south  by 
Bha,^  which,  whether  it  belong  to  Pegu  or  Tonquin,  is  unknown. 
(7)  Ghamto  Eham,  (8)  Eemorong  Eham  are  proyinoes,  of  which 
not  only  the  boundaries,  as  in  the  case  of  the  other  four  proyinces, 
but  even  the  names  of  places  are  uncertain,  as  information  could  not 
be  procured  from  those  who  knew,  and,  through  the  jealousy  of  the 
Tibetans,  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  copy  a  map  in  the  palace  of 
Yaranga  (?)  or  Lhaprang. 

The  King  of  Tibet  is  also  ruler  oyer  the  state  of  Amdoa,  men- 
tioned aboye,  which  is  bounded  on*  the  east  by  Ohina,  on  the  north  by 
Eokonor  and  Chang,  on  the  west  by  Eham,  and  on  the  south  by 
Tonquin,  Pegu,  or  Siam,  as  fiEir  as  is  known ;  but  this  is  not  known  for 
certain,  as  the  Tibetans  haye  yery  little  knowledge  of  those  countries 
and  the  states  neighbouring  them.  Amdoa  is  diyided  into  the  follow- 
ing proyinces,  Chenisgungba,  larba,  Ara,  Margniu,  Tzator,  Tariong, 
Tebo,  Ngaba,  Sunggiu,  Eorlung,  Chusang,  Samblo,  Tongor,  Eung- 
bung,  and  they  say  that  there  are  others,  but  there  was  no  opportunity 
afforded  us  of  ascertaining  these  matters,  owing  to  the  necessity  for 
not  awakening  suspicions. 

In  all  these  proyinces  there  are  cities,  estates,  castles  built  of 
stone  and  other  durable  materials.  The  natiye  tongue  is  Tibetan,  but 
they  speak  also  Tatar  and  Chinese,  and  possess  a  high  class  of 
intellect.  In  my  time  nearly  all  the  lecturers  and  lunas  of  the 
uniyersity,  masters  of  the  Supreme  Lama,  and  the  Grand  Lamas  who 
haye  been  bom  again,  came  from  Amdoa,  a  proyince  from  which  they 
do  not  draft  soldiers,  as  mentioned  aboye.  ' 

Between  Tatary  and  the  proyinces  of  Chang  and  Ngari  are  the 
people  of  Hor,^  who  are  of  mean  intellect,  wear  their  hair  in  tresses 
and  dress  in  the  Tatar  fibshion ;  they  liye  in  tents,  and  speak  both 
Tatar  and  Tibetan,  but  the  former  with  greater  facility.  In  the  pro- 
yince of  Tzang  there  are  two  large  and  «eyeral  small  rivers.  One 
rises  in  the  Langur  mountain  and  flows  as  far  as  Sekia,  and  then 
turning  south  trayerses  the  state  of  Bregion  or  Bramashon,  and 
Bengal,  where  it  joins  the  Ganges  under  the  name  of  Ponchu.^  The 
other  riyer,  called  Sanchu,  comes  from  the  north,  it  is  belieyed  from 

1  Bha  Ib  the  oonntry  of  Bha,  or  Bha-  Tibetans  to  the  people  of  the  Turk 
tang  (plain  of  cows).  (El.)  race  in  Central  Asia.  (El.) 

'  Hor,  according  to  M.  Osozna  de  '  The  Tista,  which  howeyer  does  not 

Koros,  is  the  name   applied  by  the      rise  in  Mount  Langur,  but  in  some 

mountains  to  the  north.  (Kl.) 


814  HOBAOE  DELLA  PENNA.  [Afp. 

Chang  larzi,. flows  to  the  south  of  Sgigatse,  passes  Giantze  and  Pari, 
leaying  Bregion  on  the  west,  and  joins  the  Ganges  in  BengaL^ 

The  boundaries  of  Tibet  on  the  ecust  meet  those  of  China  and 
Tarchenton.^  This  state  or  provinoe,  I  believe,  joins  China  beyond 
the  Great  Wall.  In  ancient  times,  when  the  Grand  Lania  was  both  the 
spiritual  and  temporal  ruler  in  Tibet,  the  Emperor  of  China  always 
gave  him  supreme  authority  oyer  it,  but  when  the  Emperor  gained 
possession  of  Tibet,  in  1720,  he  reserred  the  chief  power  for  himself. 
This  country  produces  abundantly  several  species  of  tea,  with  which 
it  supplies  the  whole  of  Tibet,  which  on  the  south  is  bounded  by 
Bengal,  Lho  ten  ke,  Altibari,  Mon,  Brukpa,  Lhoba,  Lho  k'haptrd, 
Shapado,  Bha  (to  whom  this  belongs  is  not  known),  and,  as  far  as 
can  be  told,  with  Pegu,  Siam,  and  Tonquin;  on  the  west  by 
Kashmir,  a  part  of  the  Mogol,  Nekpal,  and  Moronga ;  on  the  north 
by  Usbek,  Gaskar,^  and  Giongar^  Tatary,  and  it  is  believed  by 
Tarkand  and  Eokonor.  Giongar  is  derived  from  Qion,  left,  and 
ibor,  hand;  and  Eokonor  from  Koho^  blue,  and  noTy  lake;  these 
being  Tatar  words.  In  the  Tibetan  tongue  Eokonor  is  called  Tzoka, 
which  is  derived  from  Tzo,  lake,  and  ^a,  dwellers.  Eokonor  is 
also  called  Tzo  ngonbo,  which  means  blue  lake,  the  water  being 
blue.  The  Tibetans  pretend  that  this  lake  belongs  to  them,  and  that 
the  limits  of  Tibet  adjoin  those  of  the  town  of  Shilin  or  Shilingh. 
From  this  lake  there  issues  no  river.  The  five  rivers  which  the  old 
maps  show  as  issuing  from  a  lake,  whether  it  be  the  above-named 
landro  or  lantzo,  which  is  three  days'  journey  west  of  Lhasa,  or 
Eokonor  lake,  which  is  about  one  day's  journey  from  Shilin,  on  the 
confines  of  Tibet,  these  being  the  only  two  lakes  in  that  country,  are 
absolutely  imaginary,  as  no  river  at  all  issues  from  those  lakes ;  but 
there  are  other  large  rivers,  as  mentioned  above,  viz.  Tzangchu,  in  the 
province  of  Tzang,  and  Nakchu  and  Bichu,  in  the  state  of  Chang,  as 
well  as  two  others  which  I  have  forgotten.  These  fSacts  are  derived 
from  well-informed  persons,  who  also  state  that  the  Ganges  rises 
in  Ngari  towards  Tatary. 

It  appears  fitting  here  to  record  what  has  been  told  to  me  by 
those  who  have  travelled  through  and  beyond  Tibet. 

The  river  Erchis  divides  Muscovy  from  the  whole  of  Tatary. 
Towai'ds  the  confines  of  the  latter,  between  the  west  and  south, 
dwell  the  Turkut  ^  Tatars,  who  voluntarily  became  subjects  of  Mus- 

*  Klaproth  says  there  is  some  con-  *  Dzungar.     (El.) 

fusion  here.  *  These  are  the  Torgod    Kalmaks 

*  A  large  fortified  town  not  in  the  who  left   Russian   territory  to  place 
maps.  thoraselvcs  in    subjection    to    ChiDa. 

*  Kaskar  or  Kashgar.    (Kl.)  (Kl.) 


I 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  FENNA.  315 

covy,  on  oondition  of  being  proyided  with  the  means  of  eustenance, 
their  own  conntry  being  barren.  They  profess  the  same  religion  as 
the  Tibetans,  a  fact  which  I  know  from  this,  that  in  1780  their  king 
died,  and  his  queen  and  son  sent  some  nobles  with  an  escort  of  800 
men  and  plenty  of  money  and  other  gifts  to  Lhasa,  to  make  prayers 
and  offerings  to  the  Grand  Lamas  and  convents  for  the  benefit  of 
the  late  king's  soul.  They  went  by  sea,  landed  in  China,^  and 
from  thence  jonmeyed  to  Lhasa,  which  they  reached  in  October, 
1731,  and  where  I  had  several  conversations  with  their  chiefs,  car- 
ried on  by  means  of  Tibetan  interpreters,  their  own  language  being 
Tatar  and  a  little  Mascovite,  while  they  are  not  entirely  ignorant 
of  Christianity. 

In  the  map  Eabnl  is  inserted,  bat  the  name  is  called  Eamal. 
About  a  month's  journey  from  it  is  Turfan.  Easkar  is  a  kingdom, 
the  capital  of  which  is  called  Easkar,  and  is  distant  three  days' 
journey  on  horseback  south  from  Yarkand.  Andigen  is  a  city  and 
kingdom,  distant  from  Easkar  a  month's  journey  southward. 
Tarkand  is  the  name  of  the  kingdom,  and  the  capital  is  called  Tark- 
and.  The  people  of  Yarkand,  Easkar,  and  Usbek  are  for  the  most 
part  of  the  Muhammadan  religion,  and  speak  Turki.  Samarkand, 
Bokara,  and  Balak  are  nearly  wholly  Muhammadan,  and  speak  Per- 
sian, while  the  people  of  Turfan,  between  Yarkand  and  Eamul,  are 
mostly  Muhammadans,  and  speak  Turki.  Turfsm  belongs  to  Giongari, 
and  Eamul  to  China.  The  people  of  Andigen,  Turfan,  and  Eamul 
profess  Muhammadanism,  but  those  of  Andigen  -speak  Tatar,  and  the 
other  two,  Turfan  and  Eamul,  Turki  and  Tatar.  From  Shilin  or 
Shilingh  to  Eamul,  the  merchants  with  their  caravans  take  forty  days 
on  the  road,  and  twelve  from  Eamul  to  Turfan,  whence  their  route 
runs  in  a  north-west  direction.  Tarsy,  a  district  of  Amdoa,  is  a  good 
day's  journey  from  Shilin. 

Begarding  the  situation  of  our  five  religious  houses,  I  may 
mention  that  the  first  is  at  Chandemagor,  in  Bengal,  in  latitude 
22^  20'  north,  where  the  sun  is  in  the  zenith  on  the  8rd  June  and  9th 
July.  The  second  is  that  of  Patna,  in  the  kingdom  of  Behar,  twenty 
days  distant  from  Chandemagor,  and  in  latitude  26°  80'  north.  The 
third  is  in  Nekpal,  at  Eadmandu  or  Batgao,  in  latitude  27""  80'. 
The  fourth  in  the  capital  of  Tibet,  in  Lhasa,  in  latitude  80""  20'.  The 
fifth  at  Trongnge,  in  Takpo,  about  80°  north  latitude. 

*  Evidently  an  error.  The  Embassy  traversed  Mongolia.  The  Kalmak  king, 
who  was  called  Ayuka  Khan,  died  in  1731.    (KI.) 


316  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  .  [App. 


A  Short  Account  of  the  Cfreai  Kingdom  of  Ttbet^  <u  far  cu  regards  the 
Pontion  of  the  Country  and  its  Products ;  the  Food  and  Drink  of 
its  People;  its  Commerce;  the  Manners,  Politics,  and  Temporal 
Btile  of  the  People  ;  the  Administration  of  Justice  ;  and  a  Succinct 
Abstract  of  the  Qreat  Chaos  of  Tibetan  Laws. 

The  Kingdom  of  Tibet  and  its  ProducU.—The  kingdom  of  Tibet  is 
moQntainons  tliroaghout,  and  between  the  mountains  there  are  plains, 
where  are  built  cities  and  castles  in  the  southern  parts,  and  groves 
of  willows  and  stnnted  trees  haye  been  planted,  the  mountains  being 
destitute  of  everything  except  shrubs. 

Towards  the  south,  in  the  provinces  of  Takpo,  Eombo,  and  Eham, 
there  are  forests,  but  in  all  the  mountains  in  the  provinces  of  Ngari, 
Tzang,  U,  and  Chang,  there  are  no  shrubs,  but  only  a  few  trees, 
too  few  indeed  to  supply  beams  for  building  houses,  so  that  they  only 
take  the  branches  of  the  trees  for  fuel,  and  sell  them  at  an  extremely 
high  price,  as  their  usual  practice  is  to  bum  the  dung  of  horses,  oxen, 
and  other  animals.  The  climate  is  extremely  cold,  and  the  sammits 
of  the  mountains  are  covered  with  snow  all  through  the  year.  Owing 
to  the  great  altitude  and  the  rudeness  of  the  bleak  winds  which 
there  prevail,  the  ground  for  six  months  is  hard  as  rock,  and  the 
climate  and  soil  being  cdike  inhospitable,  no  poisonous  animal  is  to 
be  found. 

Sowing  takes  place  in  the  beginning  of  May ;  they  gather  little 
wheat,  little  being  sown,  much  barley,  and  some  peas  whidi  they 
bruise  (as  they  do  not  cook  them),  and  give  to  horses  and  cattle,  the 
latter  crop  being  gathered  in  September.  These  harvests,  as  well 
as  that  of  rape  (from  the  seeds  of  which  oil  is  made),  yield  sixty- 
fold,  and  in  good  seasons  eightyfold.  The  people  sow  nothing  else, 
except  some  small  red  turnips,  radishes,  garlic  in  large  quantity,  and  a 
few  very  small  onions.  In  the  southern  parts  nothing  else  is  found, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  nuts,  some  small  peaches,  and  wild  apples 
(in  Trongnge  there  are  some  wild  vines  which  yield  a  few  grapes),  and 
a  few.  different  sorts  of  flowers,  make  up  the  total  of  the  fruits  of  the 
earth. 

For  clothing  purposes  they  have  only  cloth  of  wool,  serge,  or  yam, 
blankets,  which  are  at  the  most  a  palm  and  a  half  wide,  and  skins 
with  the  hair  on.  There  are  many  gold  mines  in  the  provinces  of  U, 
Tzang,  Chang,  Takpo,  Eombo,  and  Eham,  and  silver  (as  far  as  is 
known)  in  the  province  of  Eham.    There  are  also  mines  of  iron, 


App.]  HOBAOE  BELLA  PENNA.  817 

copper,  and  another  mineral,  of  a  white  colour,  like  tin,  which  is 
called  iikzay  and  is  worked  into  a  sort  of  brass  by  being  mixed  with 
copper ;  of  snlphnr,  vitriol,  oinnabar,  cobalt,  tm^noise  stones,  a  yellow 
substance  called  patday  borax,  rookHsalt,  a  white  mineral  earth,  nsed 
in  the  houses  instead  of  lime ;  another  species  of  earth,  bright  and 
corrosive,  nsed  instead  of  soap,  to  eradicate  stains  and  cook  food 
qnickly ;  square  stones  of  three  kinds,  the  colour  of  iron ;  of  silver  and 
of  gold ;  mountain  crystals,  which  are  used  for  flints,  and  alabaster ; 
rhubarb  and  other  medicines  are  to  be  found.  There  are  numerous 
mineral  springs,  and  medicinal  springs,  both  hot  and  cold,  which, 
however,  are  not  good  for  drinking  purposes,  owing  to  their  being 
mixed  with  the  aforesaid  minerals. 

There  are  horses,  a  few  oxen  like  ours,  but  extremely  small,  oxen 
peculiar  to  the  country  with  long  hair,  which  are  used  as  beasts  of 
labour,  mules,  sheep  in  abundance,  goats,  cows,  which  yield  plenty 
of  milk,  from  which  butter  is  obtained  in  large  quantities,  but  not 
cheese,  which  they  know  not  how  to  make,  small  pigs,  whose  flesh  is 
not  unlike  the  other  flesh  they  eat,  a  great  number  of  very  large  dogs, 
and  a  few  fowls.  As  regards  wild  animals,  there  are  a  few  hares,  a 
large  quantity  of  musk  rats,  marmots,  a  few  stags  and  goats,  and  hairy 
oxen.  The  birds  comprise  sparrows,  a  few  larks,  ravens,  falcons,  eagles 
and  other  birds  of  prey,  wild  ducks  and  geese  in  abundance.  There 
is  also  plenty  of  flsh,  but  from  the  first  day  of  the  year  to  the  end  of 
the  seventh  month  all  fishing  is  prohibited,  while  tibe  killing  of  birds 
is  always  prohibited. 

Food, — ^The  Tibetans  drink  a  quantity  of  tea,  made  with  milk, 
butter,  and  salt,  and  leave  a  little  tea  in  the  cup,  in  which  they  make 
a  paste  with  barley  meal,  and  afterwards  eat  it.  For  dinner  and 
supper  they  make  tiie  barley-meal  paste  with  tea  or  water,  and  eat  it 
with  meat  or  fish,  which  they  eat  raw,  or  with  dried  meat  without 
salt.    Well-to-do  people,  however,  live  rather  better. 

Commerce.— 'The  above-mentioned  minerals,  woollen  cloth,  yarn, 
woollen  blankets,  musk,  and  the  foregoing  animals,  paper  made  in 
Takpo  and  Pari,  in  the  south  of  the  province  of  Tzang,  are  all,  as  far 
as  Tibet  is  concerned.  From  other  kingdoms,  as  well  as  from  Ohina, 
come  porcelain,  glass  in  small  quantities,  fabrics  of  raw  and  prepared 
silk,  brocades,  white  and  coloured  cotton  fabrics,  sewing  silk  and 
thread,  tea  in  small  quantities  (the  greater  part  coming  firom  the  state 
of  Tarchenton),  and  other  things.  From  Nekpal  come  cotton  cloths, 
wrought  brass,  and  copper.  From  Mogol  come  white  and  figured 
doths,  silk,  and  embroidered  stufib,  brocades,  scarlet,  corals  and 
amber  (these  last  three  articles  from  Europe),  small  diamonds,  and 


S18  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

other  things.  From  other  kingdoms  come  other  goods ;  and  I  belieye 
that  the  merchants  must  make  great  gains,  as  they  will  borrow  monej 
at  interest  from  120  to  140  per  cent.,  and  give  a  pledge  in  addition, 
in  order  to  seonre  their  loan. 

Morality, — ^The  Tibetans,  speaking  as  a  mle,  are  inclined  to 
yindictiyenees ;  bat  they  know  well  how  to  dissemble,  and  when 
opportmiity  ofifers^  will  not  fail  to  revenge  themselves.  They  are 
timid,  and  greatly  fear  justice ;  so  that  when  they  commit  some 
crime,  throngh  timidity  and  dread  of  jostioe  they  know  neither  how 
to  apply  a  remedy  nor  to  take  to  flight,  and  if  taken  before  a  judge, 
at  the  first  or  second  examination  they  confess ;  and  if  they  do  not 
make  open  confession,  they  nevertheless  betray  their  guilt  by  the 
confusion  in  which  they  involve  themselves.  If,  however,  they  are 
protected  by  some  great  lord,  they  lay  aside  all  fear,  and  become 
arrogant  and  proud.  They  are  greedy  of  money ;  and  yet  they  show 
admiration  for  those  who  are  independent  thereof  and  disinterested. 
They  are  also  somewhat  given  to  lust ;  but  this  is  more  owing  to  their 
atrocious  laws  than  to  any  real  inclination  thereto.  They  are  addicted 
to  habits  of  intoxication  and  to  drinking  barley  beer,  and  a  kind  of 
brandy  (mixed  with  the  beer  referred  to),  which  does  not  differ  greatly 
from  the  beer  which  the  Tatars  make  from  the  milk  of  mares,  and 
which  is  like  water  in  appearance  and  taste,  but  is  of  considerable 
strength.  They  are  but  slightly  loyal  to  their  chiefs,  and  are  fond  of 
new  forms  of  government  and  revolutions,  as  it  would  appear  from 
the  Tibetan  histories ;  but  the  causes  of  the  most  recent  disturbances 
were  the  monks.  They  are  also  dirty  and  nasty,  and  without  refine- 
ment ;  but  from  their  intercourse  with  the  Chinese  in  1720  they  have 
begun  to  be  a  little  more  cleanly  and  civilised. 

Notwithstanding  the  above-mentioned  objectionable  qualities  and 
blameable  habits  of  the  Tibetans,  they  have  some  good  points,  among 
which,  being  generally  intelligent  (although  not  equal  to  the  people 
of  the  state  of  Amdoa,  who  are  extremely  quick),  they  are  gentle  and 
humane  and  amenable  to  reason,  the  laymen  submitting  to  the  precepts 
of  the  land  more  readily  than  the  monks,  who  are  most  obstinate  in 
defence  of  their  sect,  but  who,  when  convinced,  abandon  their  opposi- 
tion and  even  their  former  tenets ;  as,  when  convinced  by  the  ail- 
ments brought  by  the  Capuchin  missionaries  against  magic,  they  ceased 
to  practise  it  any  further.  They  (more  especially  the  laymen)  are 
much  given  to  piety  and  devotion  and  to  almsgiving,  and  in  these 
pious  works  they  take  no  count  of  money  or  riches,  more  especially 
when  they  wish  to  pray  for  the  souls  of  the  dead ;  while  in  almsgiving 
they  are  not  less  generous,  but  even  institute  solemn  prayers  and  many 


App.] 


HORACE  DELLA  PENNA. 


319 


saorifioes,  calling  together  many  monlcB  for  those  spiritnal  dnties, 
and  they  consider  it  a  great  crime  to  keep  back  the  smallest  coin  be- 
longing to  the  deceased.  The  monks  also  do  not  fail  to  give  alms  and 
do  other  works  of  charity  to  the  deceased. 

As  &r  as  I  have  seen  and  heard,  and  judging  from  my  knowledge 
of  the  country,  there  is  great  modesty  obseryed  in  the  dress  and 
behayionr  of  women,  in  their  appearance  in  public,  and  in  their  own 
houses  in  priyate  throughout  the  kingdom,  Lhasa  and  some  other  com- 
mercial towns  being  excepted,  as  the  yariety  of  the  nations  which  there 
meet  has  brought  about  rather  more  liberty.  At  dances  women  dance 
with  women,  and  men  with  men,  and  it  would  be  considered  a  great 
scandal  were  a  man  and  a  woman  to  dance  together. 

The  Poliiical  and  Temporal  OovemmenL — Before  1706  the  Grand 
and  Supreme  Lama^  was  master  of  all  Tibet,  but  in  order  that  he 
might  be  able  better  to  attend  to  the  spiritual  rule,  he  kept  as 
protector  of  the  kingdom  a  Tatar,  of  the  fisunily  of  the  chief  of  the 
thirty-two  petty  rulers  of  Kokonor,  Talakuchy,^  to  whom  he  gaye  the 
name  of  King,  a  dignity  which  descended  from  &ther  to  son,  while  in 


>  Lama  means  that  there  is  no  one 
higher,  and  it  is  applied  to  the  superior 
of  a  convent.  These  lamas  are  of 
various  kinds.  Some  are  called  lamas 
bom  anew,  and  these  are  supposed 
at  death  to  pass  from  one  body  into 
another.  The  Grand  Lamas  belong  to 
this  category,  and  are  many  in  number, 
each  of  them  haviDg  several  monas- 
teries nndor  him,  the  superiors  of  which 
are  elected  by  the  Grand  Lama,  either 
for  their  virtues  or  as  a  mark  of 
favour;  and  from  this  post  they  are 
not  removed  during  lifetime,  except  for 
very  grave  offences,  albeit  sometimes 
they  are  transferred  from  an  inferior 
convent  to  a  higher  one,  from  which 
cause  they  are  called  elected  lamas, 
and  not  lamas  bom  anew.  The  Supreme 
Grand  Lama  cannot  exercise  authority 
over  the  monks  of  the  convents,  who 
depend  on  the  other  Grand  Lamas  to 
create  them  lamas  of  the  university. 
The  Grand  Lamas,  however,  are  not 
subject  to  the  supreme  one,  although 
he  and  (at  the  present  time)  his  de- 
puty take  precedence  of  them,  and  in 
differences  between  them  the  Supreme 
Lama  or  his  deputy  is  he  who  decides. 


These  people  hold  and  believe  that 
the  bodies  of  these  lamas  are  in- 
structed by  the  soul  of  one  of  the 
Ghanchub,  which  are  numerous,  as 
mentioned  above.    (Delia  Penna.) 

Lama,  or  bZama  as  it  is  written  in 
Tibetan,  signifies  priest  or  superior 
priest.  In  the  torm  Taiai  lama,  talai  is 
a  Mongol  word  meaning  sea  or  ocean, 
and  is  a  translation  of  the  Tibetan 
rGhia  mtao  of  the  same  meaning,  a 
title  which  has  long  been  adopted  by 
the  upper  members  of  the  Buddhist 
hierarchy.  (Kl.) 

'  The  celebrated  Guchi  Khan  turu 
baikhu.  He  was  the  first  of  all  the 
Dzungarian  chiefs  who  received  a  title 
at  the  hands  of  the  Manchu  dynasty  of 
China.  Under  the  Dalai  Lama  of  the 
fifth  generation,  great  troubles  arose  in 
Tibet  Tsang-pa  Khan,  chief  of  the 
nomad  tribes  in  the  country,  endea- 
voured to  do  away  with  Buddhism.  The 
diba  or  viceroy  of  the  kingdom  invoked 
the  aid  of  Guchi  Khan,  who  came,  and 
having  beaten  Tsang-pa  Khan,  placed 
his  own  son  Dayan  Khan  on  the  throne 
of  Tibet.  (KL) 


820 


HORACE  DELLA  PENNA. 


[App. 


default  of  male  iBBUo,  the  Sapreme  Grand  Lama  elected  some  other 
member  of  the  same  family,  giving  him  as  appanage  the  whole  of  the 
province  of  Chang  both  for  reyenne  and  rule.  This  king  resided 
daring  the  summer  at  Dam,  and  the  winter  at  Lhasa,  in  the  palace  of 
Eaden  khang  sar,  and  it  was  his  duty  to  defend  the  kingdom,  with  his 
own  Tatar  and  the  Tibetan  soldiery  of  the  kingdom,  from  the  invasion 
of  foes,  extending  his  political  rule  only  over  the  aboye-named  Tatars, 
but  for  military  purposes  and  in  times  of  war  over  the  Tibetan 
soldiers  as  well. 

The  Supreme  Grand  Lama  had  also  another  Tibetan  of  great  rank, 
chosen  for  his  ability,  nobility,  intelligence,  and  wisdom,  to  whom  he 
gave  the  name  of  Tiari ;  and  the  authority  conferred  on  him  by  the 
same  Supreme  Grand  Lama  in  the  political  rule  of  the  whole  kingdom 
was  so  great,  that  the  same  Tatar  king  had  to  give  way  and  place  in 
public  meetings  to  the  Twrt,  without,  however,  being  subject  to  him. 
This  Tisri,  in  public  meetings  and  on  the  occasion  of  visits  from  the 
Supreme  Grand  Lama,  had  to  dress  in  the  garb  of  a  monk.  The 
Tisri  alone  had  the  right  of  electing  the  four  KhalongBy  or  ministers 
of  state,  on  whom  he  conferred  the  power  of  electing  the  governors 
subordinate  to  the  governors-general  of  provinces,  and  of  chief  towns 
throughout  the  kingdom,  these  being  elected  by  the  Tisri  alone, 
similarly  with  all  the  other  principal  ministers  and  upper  officers  of 
the  whole  kingdom,  while  he  reserved  to  himself  the  power  of  life 
and  death,  and  other  matters  of  great  import,  which  he  could  not 
entrust  to  the  authority  of  the  ministers  of  state  or  governors-general, 
or  other  chief  officers.  By  this  organization  of  the  ministry  and 
temporal  offices,  the  Sapreme  Grand  Lama  managed  to  avoid  being 
burthened  with  any  political  matters,  except  appeals  to  him  against 
the  decision  of  the  Tisri,  and  to  devote  increased  attention  to  spiritual 
matters  and  laws. 

The  last  Supreme  Grand  Lama,  absolute  ruler  of  Tibet,  by  name, 
Lotzang^ncen-txang-yang-ghiamizhOf  which  means  "  great  and  best 
heart  and  sea  of  the  musical  or  concerted  song  of  Tzang"  (which  is  a 
place  of  the  Lha^  or  gods),  although  he  was  possessed  of  great  and 
conspicuous  abilities,  was  liberal  almost  to  prodigality,  and  a  lover  of 


>  Lhoj  gods,  those  who  receive  the 
reward  of  their  good  deeds  by  trans- 
migration into  other  bodies  in  plaoes 
of  delight,  which  number  in  all  thirty- 
two,  and  to  one  of  which  (according  to 
the  amonnt  of  their  good  deeds)  the 
passage  is  effected.  The  books  of  their 
laws  say  that  they  can  sin,  but  not 


perform  meritorious  actions,  and  in  pro- 
portion to  their  sins,  past  or  presoii, 
they  then  transmigrate  into  beasts,  or 
into  Tantali,  or  into  hell ;  and  if  they 
have  no  sin  they  become  men  again. 
The  Lha  in  places  of  delight,  are  in- 
voked and  revered.     (Delia  Penna.) 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  321 

magnificenoe,  nevertheless  lived  in  very  dissolute  fashion,  and  neither 
the  Tisri,  whose  name  was  Sangkie  Ghiamtzho,  nor  the  Tatar  king, 
Ginkir  Khan,  nor  the  Emperor  of  China,  nor  the  King  of  Gionkar, 
nor  the  Ohiefs  of  Eokonor,  through  their  ambassadors,  could  prevail 
on  him  to  abandon  his  wicked  ways.  In  this  year  1706  there  were 
great  dissensions  between  the  king,  Ginkir  Khan,  and  the  Tisri  Sangkie 
Ghiamtzho,  which  finally  resulted  in  the  king,  Ginkir  Elhan,  causing 
the  Tisri  to  be  assassinated.  After  the  event  the  above-named  Su- 
preme Grand  Lama  still  continued  his  dissolute  life,  and  the  king, 
Ginkir  Ehan,  being  unable  to  endure  it  any  longer,  determined,  with 
the  consent  of  the  Emperor  of  China,  to  depose  him.  Wherefore, 
pretending  that  the  Emperor  of  China  had  summoned  him  to  his  pre- 
sence, for  the  sake  of  honouring  him,  from  the  convent  of  Brepung  or 
Brebon,  whither  the  monks,  being  all  armed  and  numbering  above 
60,000,  had  forcibly  conducted  him  for  safety,  the  valour  of  the  King's 
arms  tore  him  from  the  hands  of  the  priests  and  led  him  to  Dam,  where 
(as  is  conunonly  reported)  the  Eling  caused  him  to  be  decapitated. 
But  the  historical  work,  called  Naue  c*iu  len  i  k*hyJ^  hun  ka  sgiuso^  in 
referring  to  it  says  that  in  order  to  attend  very  carefully  and  hear 
with  joyful  heart  the  registration  of  events  (that  is  in  this  book),  he 
was  sent  to  China,  and  on  the  road  died  of  dropsy,  and  this  happened 
towards  the  end  of  the  year  1707,  in  which  year,  on  the  12th  June, 
our  first  Capuchin  missionaries  from  the  march  of  Ancona,  forming 
the  Tibetan  mission,  arrived. 

After  these  events  the  king,  Ginkir  Khan,  made  as  Supreme  Grand 
Lama  the  lama  of  the  monastery  of  Chapohri,^  named  Ngawang  yi  shie 
ghiamtzOy  into  whom,  as  the  Chokhiongs  pretended,  not  the  soul  but 
the  breath  of  the  former  one  had  passed. 

In  the  year  1709  there  arrived  five  ambassadors  from  the  Emperor 
of  China,  who  bore  his.  commands  to  all  the  Tibetans  to  recognize  the 
above-named  lama  as  the  true  Supreme  Lama,  and  the  King  Ginkir 
Khan  as  the  true  and  lawful  King  of  Tibet,  which  was  done  by  all. 

It  must  be  mentioned  that  the  soul  of  the  deceased  Supreme  Lama, 
according  to  the  foolish  notion  of  the  Tibetans,  had  passed  into 
the  body  of  a  child,  son  of  a  Tibetan  monk  who  had  been  driven  out 
of  the  monastery  of  Brepung  or  Brebon,  in  the  city  of  Lithang, 
province  of  Kham,  and  who,  they  say,  was  thus  bom  again.  He 
was  bom  in  1706,  and  the  report  then  spread  that  the  Grand  Lama 
was  bom  again,  so  that  a  great  number  of  monks  and  scholars  came 
to  recognize  him  ;  but  as  the  Emperor  of  China  wished  the  one  nomi- 

»  Id  e&t,  "  iron  mountain."    (Kl.) 


322 


HORACE  DELLA  PENNA. 


[App. 


nated  by  the  Tatar  king,  and  whoee  appointment  had  been  confirmed 
by  him,  to  hold  the  spiritual  power,  he  caused  the  child  and  all  his 
fEunily  to  be  taken  and  goarded,  and  this  was  done  with  the  aid  of 
5000  soldiers.  He  was  placed  in  the  fortress  of  Shilin  or  Shilingh, 
and  kept  there  till  1720,  in  which  year  the  Chinese  army,  com- 
posed of  107,000  Chinese  soldiers  and  30,000  Tatars,  retook  the 
metropolis  of  Lhasa,  and  made  themselves  masters  of  the  whole  of 
the  kingdom  of  Tibet,  on  the  20th  September,  and  overthrew  com- 
pletely the  Gionkar  Tatars,  who  had  treacherously  invaded  Tibet, 
and  with  the  connivance  of  a  great  part  of  its  people,  had  plundered 
the  country,  and  taken  Lhasa,  in  November  and  December,  1717. 
The  Chinese  having  thus  retaken  Tibet  and  Lhasa  from  the 
Gionkar  Tatars,  replaced  in  possession  on  the  6th  of  October,  1720, 
the  said  newly-born  Lama,  in  whom  alone  the  Emperor  of  China 
vested  the  spiritual  rule,  and  appointed  to  the  temporal  and  political 
rule,  as  subordinate  to  the  Grand  Lama,  the  king,  Telchin  bathur,  in 
place  of  Ginkir  Khan,  who  had  been  slain  in  the  defeat  of  all  the 
family  of  Gionkars. 

In  1727,  by  order  of  the  Grand  Lama,  of  his  father,  of  the  three 
ministers  of  state,  and  of  many  nobles  of  the  kingdom,  the  king,  Tel- 
chin bathur,  was  assassinated  in  the  royal  hall  on  the  &th  of  August. 
Li  1728  the  Emperor  of  China  sent  another  army  of  over  40,000 
soldiers,  ordered  all  those  implicated  in  the  crime  to  be  arrested,  and 
on  the  1st  of  November  caused  seventeen  of  the  ringleaders  to  be 
executed  most  cruelly,  and  many  others  who  could  not  fly,  and  were 
concerned  in  the  murder,  were  sent  into  China.    On  the  23rd  of 
December  in  the  same  year,  1728,  the  Grand  Lama  and  his  father 
were  led  away,  with  their  respective  retinues,  and  placed  in  a  fortress 
near  Chen-to-fu ;  and  the  same  Emp&ror  selected  as  spiritual  ruler 
instead  the  much-respected  and  powerful  Lama  of  the  monastery  of 
Chotin,  in  the  same  province  of  U,  four  days'  journey  from.  Lhasa, 
His  name  was  Kiesri-riboche,  and  he  resided  in  the  palace  of  Putala,^ 
or  at  Brepung,  as  all  the  other  Grand  Lamas  used  to  do.     In  1729 
the  Emperor  of  China  appointed  as  king  of  the  said  Tibet,  and 


1  Pntala  is  the  name  of  the  palatial 
residence  of  the  Grand  Lama,  an  ex- 
tremely high  edifice.  Pntala  is  bnilt 
(m  a  little  hill,  on  the  slopes  of,  and 
aronnd  which,  there  are  monasteries. 
The  Grand  Lama  never  sits  on  the 
altar,  but  close  to  it,  whether  in  church 
or  in  the  palace,  where  there  is  a  chapel 
with  an  altar.    The  Grand  Lama  rises 


to  his  feet  and  touches  heads  when  the 
King,  Grand  Lamas  who  have  been 
bom  again,  ambassadors  firom  other 
kings,  and  similar  personages  Tisit  him. 
The  late  Grand  Lama  had  400  monks, 
elected  by  himself;  this  one  has  200, 
but  they  are  monks,  not  lamas,  and 
from  these  are  chosen  the  lamas  of 
monasteries.    (Delia  P.)        ^ 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  323 

tributaiy  to  him,  the  present  mler  Mi-vang,  whom  God  prosper  and 
render  happy,  so  that  he  may  embrace  the  holy  Catholic  faith,  to 
which  he,  as  well  as  all  his  family  and  subjects,  are  well  disposed. 

The  same  Emperor  of  China,  in  appointing  king  the  aboye-men- 

tioned  Mi-Tang,  entrasted  to  him  also  the  temporal,  judicial,  and 

political  authority,  as  he  had  done  with  his  predecessor  Telchin 

bathnr,  thns  depriving  the  Grand  Lama  entirely  of  all  the  temporal 

sway,  so  that  at  the  present  time  the  king  auctoritate  propria  elects 

the  fonr  Ehalonga,  or  ministers  of  state,  the  Teba^  or  Deba  chinbo, 

which  is  the  title  given  to  the  governors-general  of  the  provinces  and 

chief  towns,  as  well  as  all  the  other  ministers  and  npper  ofElcers  and 

chiefs,  giving  them  all  authority  in  political  and  criminal  matters, 

and  in  all  military  causes  which  are  neither  capital  nor  grave. 

In  the  selection  of  these  governors-general,  ministers,  and  upper 

officials,  he  consults  the  said  four  ministers  of  state,  with  whom  and 

the  other  ministers  the  king  holds  counsel  three  times  a  week. « 

In  the  absence  of  the  king  the  first  minister  of  state  presides, 

but  he  takes  no  action  on  the  deliberations  without  the  approval  of 

the  king.    The  latter  does  not  decide  any  case  of  importance  or  in-* 

volving  life  and  death  without  taking  the  advice  and  counsel  of  these 

ministers  of  state,  the  nobles  of  his  court,  and  a  secret  council.    The 

ministers,  too,  with  the  other  councillors  meet  together  every  other 

day  to  discuss  other  causes  of  an  ordinary  character.     It  devolves  on 

the  ministers  of  state  to  choose  the  other  governors,  ministers,  and 

subordinate  officers,  the  subalterns  and  dependents  of  the  governors 

of  provinces,  and  of  the  chief  ministers  and  officers,  so  that  at  the 

present  day  the  Supreme  Grand  Lama  has  nothing  left  to  him  but  the 

spiritual  rule.    As  regards  the  monks,  if  they  are  professed  monks, 

and  for  grave  offences  are  expelled  their  monasteries,  they  are  punished 

by  the  same  tribunal  which  punishes  those  who  are  not  professed ;  if 

however  they  are  not  guilty  of  a  grave  offence,  the  priests  are  punished 

by  the  chief  lama  of  the  monastery,  or  the  Deputy  Supreme  Grand 

Lama,  who  at  the  present  day  rules  instead  of  the  Supreme  Grand 

Lama,  who  is  confined  in  the  fortress  near  Chen-^fu,  as  mentioned 

elsewhere. 

Administraium  of  Justice, — The  Tibetan  judges,  who  are  three, 
award  the  punishments  prescribed  in  their  books,  which  may  be 
called  law  books,  and  which  assign  penalties  for  misdemeanors  in 
criminal  matters  as  well  as  in  civil  disputes.  There  are  besides  other 
books  which  treat  of  similar  matters,  in  the  shape  of  glosses  upon 
them,  but  the  commentators  have  taken  no  heed  of  others  which  treat 
of  religion. 

Y  2 


324  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

Tliere  is  a  right  of  appeal  from  the  ohiefiB,^  who  are  ordinaiy 
judges,  to  other  officials  who  reriew  causes,  from  the  reviewers 
of  causes  to  the  ministers  of  state,  and  from  these  (at  the  present 
day)  to  the  king ;  and  when  the  Supreme  Lama  was  absolute  in  tem- 
poral matters,  and  appointed  the  Tisri  to  dischai^  these  duties,  they 
had  recourse  to  him,  and  then  in  case  of  need  to  the  Grand  Lama  him- 
self;  but  with  this  caution  from  the  ministers  or  chamberlains,  not  to 
refer  the  criminal  cases  of  those  condemned  to  bodily  punishment, 
whether  by  flogging,  cutting  o£f  the  hand,  or  death,  unless  they  wished 
the  culprits  to  be  pardoned,  as  they  were  sure  of  receiving  pardon. 
They  accordingly  brought  them  before  him  only  when  they  wished  to 
pardon  them,  the  Grand  Lama  being  the  fountain  of  mercy.  The 
above-named  three  judges  meet  together  in  their  courts  at  fixed  hours, 
both  in  the  morning  and  evening.  Li  the  morning  neither  merchant 
nor  tradesman  can  sell  anything  until  the  said  judges  open  the 
greater  bar  of  their  palace,  which  remains  open  by  the  market-place ; 
towards  midday  they  shut  it  up,  and  all  shopmen  must  shut  up  their 
g^ods  and  return  after  dinner,  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  mornings 
provided  only  that  there  is  at  least  one  judge  in  the  palace. 

I  have  not  read  many  books  of  justice,  and  will  only  mention  what 
little  I  have  read  and  seen  practised. 

In  civil  causes  it  is  necessary  to  produce  writings,  proofs,  or  testi- 
monies, and  according  to  these  sentence  is  given ;  thus,  if  they  deposit 
their  writings,  proofs,  and  testimonies  to-day  (imless  the  writings  be 
long  and  require  much  deliberation)  to-morrow  they  give  judgment^ 
and  they  first  decide  the  case  which  is  first  brought  before  them,  there 
being  no  need  of  feeing  the  judges  or  other  officials,  as  they  are  all 
salaried  by  the  royal  chamber ;  and  if  a  pecuniary  fine  be  adjudged, 
they  set  it  apart  to  be  handed  over  to  the  ministers  of  state  at  the  end 
of  the  year,  as  shall  be  told  hereafter ;  if,  however,  there  be  nether 
writings  nor  proofs  nor  testimonies,  in  small  cases,  such  as,  for 
instance,  in  the  case  of  a  disputed  loan,  the  judges  cause  dice  to  be 
produced  in  their  presence,  and  he  who  scores  highest  is  considered  to 
have  the  right  on  his  side.  In  matters  of  importance  they  give  judg- 
ment in  two  ways :  one  is  by  placing  two  stones,  one  white  and  the 
other  black,  in  a  vessel  of  boiling  oil,  and,  without  seeing,  by  causing 
one  of  the  stones  to  be  taken  out  by  the  hand.  If  the  stone  be  white 
and  the  hand  uninjured,  that  man  is  in  the  right,  without  the  other 
party  having  to  dip  his  hand ;  if  on  the  other  hand  he  first  encountera 

>  Chiefs,  who  are  the  judges  of  the  their  own  residence,  as  mentioned  in 

oommon  men,  and  who  dispense  justice  the  other  paper  on  the  adminiatFatioa 

in  oases  that  come  before  them.    In  of  justice.    (Delia  P.) 
Lhasa  there  are  three,  who  meet  in 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  825 

the  black  stone,  even  if  he  does  not  injure  his  hand  (for  this  ordeal  they 
make  nse  of  a  certain  secret  or  magical  ar^),  he  is  adjudged  liar,  and 
the  other  must  insert  his  hand  likewise.  The  other  method  of  giving 
judgment  is  to  heat  a  long  ronnd  bar  of  iron,  and  when  red  hot  to 
cause  the  hand  to  be  drawn  along  the  whole  of  the  bar,  and  if  the 
hand  be  not  iignred  the  right  is  on  his  side. 

In  criminal  cases  of  a  different  character,  abnse,  blows,  and  the 
like,  a  fine  and  a  beating  are  inflicted  ;  and  if  the  culprits  have  no 
money,  they  doable  the  nmnber  of  blows,  the  same  practice  being 
observed  in  the  case  of  the  women.  The  practice  in  flogging  the 
men  and  women  is  to  place  them  on  their  faces  on  the  gronnd,  and  to 
inflict  the  requisite  nmnber  of  blows  with  long  sticks  on  the  bare 
buttocks.  But  if  the  accused  was  drunk  at  the  time,  there  is  no 
penalty.  If  he  has  struck  a  blow  and  the  blow  be  not  fatal,  impri- 
sonment and  a  certain  number  of  blows  are  adjudged,  Hie  penalty  being 
lessened  if  the  accused  was  intoxicated ;  if  the  blow  proves  mortal 
and  the  injured  party  dies  after  a  certain  number  of  days,  the  accused  is 
shot  to  death  with  arrows,  or  thrown  into  the  river  with  a  gieat  stone 
round  his  neck.  If  the  death  is  immediate  on  the  quarrel,  they  pre- 
serve the  corpse  and  take  and  bind  the  murderer  to  it,  and  after  twenty- 
four  hours  bury  both  the  dead  and  the  living  together.  In  quarrels 
where  spectators  see  weapons  of  offence  drawn,  they  are  bound  to 
interfere,  and  should  they  fail  in  doing  so,  they  are  liable  to  fine  as 
well  as  those  who  take  part  in  the  same.  If  masters,  either  in  their 
senses  or  when  intoxicated,  strike  their  subordinates  or  servants,  even 
if  they  should  kill  them,  there  is  no  penalty  attached  thereto ;  they 
are  merely  held  in  bad  repute  and  lose  their  good  name,  so  that  they 
cannot  be  promoted  to  any  dignities. 

At  the  end  of  the  year  the  three  judges  of  Lhasa  present  the 
account  and  proceeds  of  all  fines,  and  by  order  of  the  king  those  for 
civil  cases  are  placed  in  the  royal  chamber,  and  those  derived  from 
criminal  cases  are  set  apart  as  presents  to  the  monks  for  the  sacri- 
fices and  prayers  offered  up  by  them.  The  judges  under  the  governors- 
general  observe  the  same  practice,  and  submit  their  account  to  the 
king  direct. 

In  cases  of  rape,  if  one  be  a  monk  and  the  other  a  nun  employed 
outside  of  a  convent  as  servant  to  those  within  and  to  beg  alms  for 
theni,  or  if  it  be  a  nun  of  a  convent  which  has  not  a  dauiura^ 
Buoh  nun  is  expelled  the  service  of  the  convent  and  sent  home, 
wbioh  is  reckoned  a  great  dishonour.  If  she  be  a  professed  nun,  the 
dishonour  is  very  great,  and  she  cannot  marry  even  though  she 
might  find  a  suitable  match.     If  the  monk  has  taken  the  vows,  he  is 


826  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

expelled  his  oloth,  and  for  some  years  he  is  sent  into  the  monntains 
among  wild  i^Tiimnlg ;  if  neither  he  nor  the  nnn  be  professed,  and  if 
they  are  willing  to  marry,  there  is  no  penalty ;  but  if  they  do  not 
marry,  the  monk  is  expelled,  and  bastinadoed  in^nblio,  and  banished 
from  that  part ;  and  if  the  ravisher  of  a  nnn  be  a  layman,  he  ib 
branded  on  the  forehead  and  banished  from  the  kingdom. 

Begarding  adnltory,  the  same  penalty  is  awarded  to  the  adulterer 
that  the  hnsband  exacts  from  the  adnltress ;  and  if  he  should  refuse 
to  take  her  back  she  returns  to  her  home  dishonoured,  but  if  he 
consents,  she  returns  to  live  with  him.  And  ooQoeming  divoroe,  if 
they  go  before  the  judge,  the  judge  examines  both  sides,  and  if  the 
woman  be  in  the  right,  the  husband  is  bound  to  restore  to  her  all  her 
dowry,  and  to  give  her  besides  four  analy  of  barley  (eyety  analy 
weighs  about  two  Boman  pounds,  24  ounces  French  weight)  for  eveiy 
day  of  their  married  life  up  to  the  date  of  divorce ;  if  the  man  be  in 
the  right,  the  woman  forfeits  all  her  dowry  and  returns  to  her  former 
home.  As  regards  other  offences  against  the  Sixth  Commandment, 
there  are  penalties  attached  to  them,  but  I  have  neither  read  nor  have 
I  been  informed  concerning  them. 

With  regard  to  theft,  when  the  thief  is  caught  he  is  cast  into 
prison,  and  when  he  has  confessed  his  crime,  if  the  property  be 
recovered  it  is  handed  over  to  the  owner;  if  the  goods  have  been 
sold,  the  receiver  thereof  forfeits  both  the  goods  and  the  money,  the 
property  being  handed  over  to  the  rightful  owner ;  if  the  money  be 
recovered  from  the  thief,  the  judge  claims  it  for  the  royal  chamber ; 
if  he  has  spent  it,  he  who  has  received  it  is  bound  to  restore  it  and 
hand  it  back  in  the  same  way  for  the  royal  chamber ;  if  the  thief 
has  stolen  money  in  coin,  it  is  restored  to  its  owner,  and  the  judge 
inflicts  a  fine  on  the  thief  for  the  chamber,  and  if  he  be  poor  the  corporal 
punishment  is  doubled.  If  the  thief  has  stolen  but  little,  and  it  is 
his  first  offence,  they  imprison  him  and  give  him  a  flogging ;  if  he  baa 
stolen  much,  and  from  private  individuals,  the  flogging  and  imprison- 
ment are  doubled.  If  on  the  occasion  of  his  first  offence  he  has  stolen 
much  or  little  from  the  royal  chamber,  or  in  the  royal  palace,  or 
in  the  monasteries  or  temples,  he  is  thrown  into  the  river,  but  ofles 
as  an  act  of  mercy  they  cut  off  both  his  hands ;  if  he  has  stolen  for 
the  second  time  they  cut  off  his  left  hand,  if  for  the  third  time  both 
the  hands,  and  then  cast  him  into  the  river ;  and  if  they  do  not  cast 
him  into  the  river,  as  an  act  of  me:ccy  they  send  him  alive  to  the 
fortress  of  Sgikakungar,  four  days  south  of  Lhasa,  where,  throng 
bad  treatment  and  fatigue,  they  do  not  often  live  beyond  a  year  at 
the  most,  while  there  are  few  that  even  reach  the  place. 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  327 

If  the  thief  be  a  monk  and  the  theft  be  oommitted  in  his  own 
monastery,  for  small  thefts  the  superior  of  the  monastery  inflicts 
punishment,  and  for  great  thefts,  the  Supreme  Grand  Lama,  or  in  his 
absence  the  Deputy ;  but  at  the  present  time  for  a  theft  of  conse- 
quence, or  for  other  crimes  committed  by  monks,  the  king  tries  the 
cause.  If  a  monk  steals  from  laymen,  ^m  temples,  or  from  other 
people  of  consequence,  and  to  a  considerable  amount,  he  is  first 
expelled  the  monastery,  and  then  the  judges  cast  him  into  prison,  and 
when  the  property  is  recovered  they  send  him  to  tend  wild  cattle  on 
the  mountains,  either  for  life  or  for  a  period,  or  else  he  is  flogged  and 
sent  into  banishment.  It  is,  howeyer,  wrong  that  the  buyer  of  the  stolen 
property,  although  he  may  not  know  that  it  is  stolen,  and  may  have 
paid  a  proper  price  for  it  according  as  the  thief  may  ask,  from  whom 
it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  whether  it  be  stolen  or  not,  should  lose 
all  the  money  he  has  paid  ;  and  still  worse  that  they  should  belieye 
the  thief,  who  may  say  that  he  has  sold  the  property  to  such  an  one, 
although  it  may  be  untrue,  and  (as  has  happened  several  times  to 
my  knowledge)  an  innocent  man  is  compelled  to  give  up  the  property 
or  its  money^s  worth. 

There  are  many  other  penalties  for  divers  other  crimes,  but 
I  do  not  recollect  them,  and  I  have  not  brought  with  me  the  book 
which  treats  of  the  administration  of  justice  and  the  penalties  awarded 
to  criminals.  In  the  case  of  strangers  they  considerably  diminish  tho 
penalties.  The  tortures  they  inflict  as  a  mark  of  disgrace  or  other- 
wise are  flogging,  dipping  them  naked  up  to  the  head  in  cold  water, 
and  then  drawing  them  out  and  beating  them  with  thongs  of  leather, 
and  then  plunging  them  ih  again  and  repeating  the  process  several 
times ;  wounding  them  slightly  with  knives,  and  smearing  the  wounds 
with  salt ;  binding  them  naked  to  a  post  in  the  public  square,  and 
leaving  them  there  all  day;  or  else  fixing  them  naked  in  a  frame 
or  gibbet  of  wood.  They  also  inflict  other  tortures  which  I  do  not 
remember,  until  they  extort  a  confession  of  their  crimes  from  the 
criminals. 

It  is  also  the  custom,  if  as  a  special  favour  the  corporal  punish- 
ment is  commuted  into  a  flne,  and  the  culprit  through  his  poverty  be 
unable  to  discharge  it,  for  five  or  six  principal  folk  who  are  charged 
with  the  duty  of  begging  alms,  to  collect  all  sorts  of  goods,  till  the 
desired  amount  is  reached,  and  the  judges  take  the  same  goods  until 
they  are  sufficient  to  satisfy  them  completely,  and  set  free  the 
culprit. 

Another  custom  is  for  twelve  other  people  of  consequence,  who 
are  appointed  for  the  purpose,  and  charged  with  the  duty,  to  go  to  the 


328  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [Afp. 

king,  and  beg  ofif  as  a  favour  some  criniinal  oondemned  to  die  or  to 
sufier  some  severe  bodily  ponisbment,  and  if  the  king  be  disposed  to 
show  mercy  he  grants  an  audience  to  these  gentlemen,  and  when  he  is 
unwilling  to  show  mercy,  he  refuses  them  audience,  on  some  pretext  or 
other.  The  above-named  gentlemen  of  rank,  when  anyone  is  eon- 
demned  to  death,  go  with  many  persons  of  consequence  and  many 
people  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  temple  many  times,  and  also  when 
the  condemned  man  is  led  to  suffer  punishment,  the  ministers  of 
justice,  together  with  the  culprit,  make  the  circuit  of  the  temple, 
followed  by  many  people. 

Tibetan  Laws. — The  books  of  Tibetan  laws,  which  they  look 
upon  as  gospel,  consist  of  eight  hundred  large  volmnes,  called 
K^JutgiuTf  which  means  translated  precepts,  that  is,  precepts  translated 
from  the  Hindustani  into  the  Tibetan  tongue.  This  K'hagmr  has 
its  commentaries,  which  consist  of  more  than  four  hundred  books, 
and  they  have  many  other  books  of  history  and  philosophy,  in 
which  are  many  things  which  the  teachers  of  religion  and  the 
people  hold  as  articles  of  faith.  In  this  very  volmninous  law  of 
the  K'hagiur  they  are  told  that  there  are  eight  millions  of  worlds 
actually  existing  besides  our  own  visible  and  palpable  one.  This 
last  and  another  world  only  owe  their  creation  to  the  agency  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  other  invisible  worlds;  but  the  manner  in 
which  these  two  worlds  were  created  being  a  lengthy  matter,  and 
it  being  desirable  to  follow  the  same  brevity  as  previously  observed, 
I  omit  recording  it.  All  the  other  worlds  are  ab  ceiemo  a  parte  anie^ 
and  one  a  parte  post,  as  shall  be  mentioned.  The  souls  of  all  livii^ 
beings  are  eternal  a  parte  ante  et  a  parte  post,  the  law  is  a&  ceiemo 
and  a  parte  ante,  but  not  a  parte  past,  because  when  all  transmigra- 
tions are  at  an  end,  and  the  living  conveyed  into  paradise,  as  shall  be 
told  presently,  all  law  is  at  an  end. 

This  law  teaches  that  in  some  of  the  fabled  worlds  there  is  no 
law,  and  in  all  the  other  worlds,  where  there  is  law  there  is  also 
paradise,  which  they  believe  to  be  eiiam  a  parte  ante,  et  a  parte  post,  as 
they  believe  all  the  souls  of  the  living  beings  to  be,  excepting,  how- 
ever, this  visible  world  of  ours,  where  they  do  not  admit  of  a  para- 
dise, but  instead,  thirty-two  places  of  bliss,  to  some  of  whioh  ax« 
conveyed  those  who  have  attained  the  position  of  saints  in  this  world, 
where  there  are  Lka,  who  are  like  gods.  They  imagine  these  places 
to  be  in  the  air  above  that  great  mountain  about  160,000  leagues 
high  (the  Tibetan  league  consists  of  five  miles),  and  32,000  leagues  in 
oircnit,  which  is  made  up  of  four  parts,  being  of  crystal  to  the  east, 
of  the  red  precious  stone  called  peimaraca  ^  (which  I  believe  is  ruby) 

*  Sanscrit,  padmardga,  ruby.    (Kl.) 


App.] 


HORACE  DELLA  PENNA. 


829 


to  the  west,  of  gold  to  the  north,  and  of  the  green  precious  stone 
called  hendruie  ^  to  the  sonth.  In  these  abodes  of  bliss  they  remain 
as  long  as  they  please,  and  then  pass  to  the  paradise  of  other 
worlds. 

According  to  their  law,  in  the  west  of  this  world  there  is  an 
eternal  world,  a  parte  ante  and  a  parte  post^  where  there  is  a  paradise, 
and  in  it  a  saint  called  Ho  pahme^  which  means  saint  of  splen- 
dour and  infinite  light.  This  saint  has  many  disciples,  who  are  all 
Chafkg  chiib,*  These  Chang  chub  have  not  yet  become  saints,  bnt  they 
possess  in  the  highest  degree  five  virtues,  called  Ohinba,  Tzultrim, 
Szopa,  Tzontro,  and  Samden,  which  mean  great  charity,  both  temporal 
and  spiritual,  perfect  obserranoe  of  laws,  great  patience  in  whatever 
event  may  occur,  great  diligence  in  working  to  perfection,  and  the 
most  sublime  contemplation.  These  Chang  chnb  have  finished  their 
course,  and  are  exempt  from  ftoiher  transmigrations,  passing  only 
from  the  body  of  one  Lama  to  that  of  another ;  but  the  Lama  is 
always  endowed  with  the  soul  of  the  same  Chang  ehuh,  although  he 
may  be  in  other  bodies  for  the  benefit  of  the  living  to  teach  them 
the  law,  which  is  the  object  of  their  not  wishing  to  become  saints, 
because  then  they  would  not  be  able  to  instruct  them.  Being  moved 
by  compassion  and  pity  they  wish  to  remain  Chang  chub  to  instruct 
the  living  in  the  law,  so  as  to  make  them  finish  quickly  the  laborious 
course  of  their  transmigrations.  Moreover,  if  these  Chang  chub  wish, 
they  are  at  liberty  to  transmigrate  into  this  or  other  worlds,  and  at 
the  same  time  they  transmigrate  into  other  places  with  the  same 
object. 

The  transmigration  of  the  soul  of  any  living  being  from  one  body 
to  another,  as  remarked  already,  is  a  point  of  primary  importance  in 
the  Tibetan  laws,  and  for  these  transmigrations  there  are  six  places 
assigned. 

Firstly,  those  of  the  Lha  or  of  gods.  These  places  are  almost  in- 
numerable, although  they  only  assign  them  here  thirty-two ;  just  as  they 
forget  the  shape  of  the  Tibetan  world  in  the  description  of  the  great 
mountain  in  the  middle  of  the  said  world.  Besides  these  places,  the 
same  law  says  that  there  are  places  of  transmigration  for  the  Lha  in 


^  Banscrit,  vaiduryya,  or  lapis  lazuli. 

*  Chang  chvb  meanB  the  spirit  of 
those  who,  on  account  of  their  perfec- 
tion, do  not  care  to  become  saints,  and 
train  and  instruct  the  bodies  of  the  re- 
born lamas,  as  for  instance,  the  Chen- 
retzi,  Sembachenbo,  Isetning  rimboche, 
Ac.,  so  that  they  may  help  tlic  living, 


and  put  an  end  to  their  numerous  trans- 
migrations, as  can  better  be  seen  in 
the  other  written  abstract  of  their  law. 
(Delia  P.) 

The  word  is  written,  in  Tibetan, 
Byang  to'u6,  and  means  *'  accomplished." 
It  is  the  name  given  to  those  beings 
who  have  attained  the  highest  degree 
of  perfection  next  to  Buddha.    (El.) 


830  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

the  Beyen  planets,  and  in  all  the  stars,  where  the  souls  transmigrated 
into  the  Lha  will  receive  the  reward  of  their  good  works  for  a  fixed 
time,  in  proportion  to  their  good  deeds ;  after  which  happy  existence 
the  Lha  go  to  receive  the  punishment  due  to  them  for  their  sins, 
committed  either  before  passing  into  the  places  of  the  Lha  or  during 
their  sojourn  in  those  places,  for  they  admit  the  possibility  of  sinning 
in  the  place  of  bliss  of  the  Lha,  just  as  these  same  Lha  can  sin  and 
not  do  meritorious  actions.  To  receive  their  punishment  they  pass  in 
the  shape  of  other  bodies  into  places  of  punishment,  as  shall  be  told 
anon;  but  if  they  have  not  sinned  since  enjoying  their  reward,  they 
transmigrate  into  bodies  of  men. 

The  second  place  is  that  of  the  Lha  ma  tti,  or  of  demigods,  and  it 
is  the  only  one  where  the  souls  pass  with  other  bodies  to  receive  the 
reward  of  their  good  works.  They  do  not,  however,  have  here  as 
many  pleasures  as  in  the  other  places  of  the  Lha,  which  have  been 
described,  but  much  fewer. 

The  third  place  is  Tudro,  which  is  the  place  of  all  sorts  of 
animals  and  beasts,  where  souls  are  transmigrated  for  venial  sins  and 
mortal  oflfences. 

The  fourth  place  is  that  of  the  lia  or  Tantalus,  whither  they 
migrate  with  other  bodies  to  receive  the  punishment  of  sins  of  a  less 
venial  character,  and  of  graver  mortal  offences. 

The  fifth  place  is  that  of  Qnielva^  or  hell,  whither  the  souls  with 
other  bodies  go  to  receive  the  punishment  for  mortal  sins  which  have 
not  been  expiated  by  pain.  There,  in  proportion  to  the  greatness  of 
the  men,  they  receive  torments ;  in  process  of  time,  which  is  of  ex« 
ceeding  length,  though  not  infinite,  on  completing  their  punishment, 
they  transmigrate,  if  they  have  committed  no  crime,  into  men,  and  if 
they  have  committed  fresh  sins,  they  either  increase  their  punishment 
in  hell  or  pass  into  beasts  and  Tantali. 

In  all  the  above-mentioned  places  every  soul  must  take  a  ftesk 
body,  because,  as  they  say,  the  soul  separated  from  the  body  can 
receive  neither  reward  nor  punishment. 

The  sixth  place,  Oikthen,  is  this  world,  or  rather  mankind  in  it, 
and  this  is  the  best  transmigration  of  all,  since  here  they  can  do 
good  and  work  desei^ving  actions,  and  cancel  sins  by  pain  and  resolu- 
tions ;  while  in  the  other  places  they  cannot  do  this.  The  blind, 
deaf,  lame,  and  crippled,  are  thus  afflicted  on  account  of  some  small 
mortal  sin  of  other  transmigrations  unexpiated  by  pain,  while  ihe 
poor,  menials,  labourers,  peasants,  and  others  who  are  occupied  in 
manual  labour,  servants,  and  slaves,  are  thus  transmigrated  for  the  same 
reason.     Property,  riches,  nobility,  the  authority  of  great  people. 


Afp.]  HORAOE  DELLA  PENKA.  331 

of  princes,  of  the  king,  as  tangbt  in  their  law,  is  dae  to  the  good 
works  done  in  other  transmigrations  for  the  good  of  others.  Thej 
wish  to  be  saints,  as  said  above,  and  even  the  Chang  chub^  according 
to  their  legends,  change  many  times  into  kmgs. 

It  is  an  artide  of  their  £uth  that  anyone  observing  all  laws 
dnring  the  period  of  five  hundred  transmigrations,  without  commit- 
ting any  sin,  becomes  a  saint ;  bat  if  he  commits  sins  they  increase 
proportionately  the  transmigrations  nntil,  by  good  works,  they  become 
saints.  Bat  before  becoming  a  saint,  a  man  most  become  Chang  chuby 
and  in  order  to  become  Chang  ckuh  it  is  necessary  that  in  the  last 
transmigration  he  at  least  be  a  monk,  becaase  scholars  of  whatever 
condition,  rank,  and  eminence,  although  they  may  live  correctly, 
cannot  become  Chang  chvib  withoat  first  becoming  monks  in  their 
last  transmigration,  as  mentioned  above.  In  order  that  the  Chang 
chub  may  become  saint,  it  is  necessary  that  first  he  shoald  have  been 
a  monk  either  in  this  world  or  in  some  other  world,  where  law  exists ; 
and  to  know  those  who  have  become  saints  since  the  restoration 
of  law,  it  is  not  necessary  that  it  should  be  declared  by  some  action, 
but  he  is  recognized  as  sach,  when,  in  the  last  transmigration  he  has 
thirty-two  signs  in  his  own  body  and  eighty  qualities,  and  by  these  he 
is  recognized  as  saint  and  adored.  The  signs  are  as  follows :  The  mark 
of  a  wheel  in  the  palms  of  the  hands  and  feet,  a  soft  skin  of  gold 
colour,  a  small  twisted  mark  like  a  ring  in  the  forehead,  the  fingers 
and  toes  webbed  as  in  ducks,  &c.^  The  qualities  comprise  walking 
like  an  elephant,  flying  like  a  bird,  walking  as  upright  as  a  pole, 
and  walking  always  with  the  right  foot  first. 

From  all  these  saints  united  there  proceeds  one  being,  and  this  is 
the  god  which  the  Tibetans  worship ;  by  increasing  the  saints  the  being 
becomes  greater,  and  when  all  mankind  have  become  saints,  the  being 
will  not  be  able  to  grow  any  greater.  Its  name  is  Sankia  Elionchoa,^ 
which  signifies  '^  the  best  of  all,"  or,  ^  god  proceeding  from  saints," 
and  it  comes  to  be  considered  as  the  first  person  by  them,  distinguish- 
ing as  they  do  the  people  who  are  really  distinct  one  from  the  other, 
and  all  three  constitute  one  being,  or  best  and  perfect  substance. 

The  second  person  they  call  Cho  Elionchoa,^  Gk)d  of  Law,  because 
these  saints  had  restored  the  law  to  its  pristine  state ;  and  as  they 
had  given  the  law^  and  it  came  from  god,  it  has  thus  become  god. 

The  third  person  is  called  Eedim-Elionchoa,^  which  signifies  the 

'  In  the  Mongol  history  of  Sanaog         *  ''The  very  preoioaa Buddha.'*  (Kl.) 
fietsen  the  Bame  thing  is  said  of  the  ^  ^  The  veiy  precious  law."    (El.) 

hands  and  feet  of  the  fint  king  of  Tibet,  *  "  The  very  precious  assemblage  of 

who  came  horn  Hindustan.    (Kl.)  the  virtuous,"  i.  e.  the  clergy.    (Kl.) 


3S«  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

« 

assemblage  of  all  the  monks,  which  is  god,  because  the  saints,  haying 
restored  the  law,  have  consequently  restored  the  laws  and  mles  of  the 
monks,  and  as  all  these  saints  were  monks,  and  have  as  it  were  the 
very  essence  of  the  same  monks,  they  call  it  Eedon-Elionchoa. 

The  law  teaches  that  all  these  three  persons  are  really  distinct, 
but  that  the  essence  is  one.  The  essence  of  this,  their  god,  is  united 
to  a  body,  and  this  body  is  made  of  a  precious  stone  like  crystal  or 
diamond,  and  they  add  this  body  because,  as  said  above,  the  mind 
alone  can  neither  enjoy  nor  suffer. 

To  this  god  of  theirs  alone  they  attribute  pity,  sympathy,  and 
all  other  perfections  joined  to  the  highest  degree  of  piety,  but  not 
justice  or  punishment,  because  they  consider  those  to  be  opposed  to 
pity.  These  acts  of  compassion  on  the  part  of  their  god  do  not 
operate  extra  se  upon  human  beings,  but  only  within  him,  because,  al- 
though they  do  not  believe  him  to  be  a  punisher  of  evil,  they  do  not 
look  upon  him  as  a  rewarder  of  good,  holding  as  they  do  that  good  and 
evil  proceed  from  the  good  and  bad  actions  of  human  beings,  and  in 
consequence  that  this  power  is  the  cause  of  all  acticms  which  really 
proceed  from  men's  hearts,  and  not  from  god,  who  has  within  himself 
compassion  only  for  the  troublous  and  lengthy  course  of  the  trans* 
migrations  referred  to. 

The  Tibetan  law  admits  the  presence  of  god,  but  through  miiZli- 
pUeaHonem  eorporum  et  animarum,  so  that  when  one  invokes  him,  or 
prays  to  him,  or  offers  sacrifices,  he  is  immediately  present,  though 
invisible,  and  seen  only  of  those  who  have  become  Chamg  ekuby  and  if 
he  reveals  himself  to  anyone  else,  it  is  because  of  the  goodness  of 
that  man's  heart,  being,  as  he  is,  omniscient  and  knowing  the  hearts 
of  all.  All  the  good  which  this  god  can  do  is  to  impart  good  inspi- 
rations to  the  heart,  through  which  men  can  do  good  if  they  wUl, 
unless  they  be  hindered  by  the  force  of  evil  done  in  other  trans- 
migrations. 

This  law  teaches  that  the  essential  part  of  the  beatitude  of  pan^ 
disc  (and  paradise  they  call  Teva  ehenbo^^  or,  Teva  tzeme^  which 
would  mean,  place  of  greatest  or  immeasurable  peace)  consists  in 
being  free  from  the  slightest  trouble,  and  in  having  all  imaginable 
joys,  and  in  being  ever  in  amplexibus  et  illec^is  absque  eonsufnatione. 

To  the  place  of  purgatory  (to  call  it  by  our  own  term),  the  law 
consigns  those  animals  and  Tantali  into  which  men  have  been  trans- 
formed, and  who  are  suffering  punishment,  by  which,  so  they  say,  they 
purge  their  venial  sins  and  mortal  offences,  believing,  however,  that 
during  that  period  they  can  sin,  but  do  no  good.    If  they  do  not 

»  "  The  highest  beatitude/'    (Kl.) 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PBNNA.  333 

commit  fresh  sins  in  this  purgatory  the  punishment  is  at  an  end,  and 
thej  retnm  again  into  men. 

They  believe  also  in  a  hell,  reserved  for  mortal  sias,  for  the  expia- 
tion of  which  they  assign  eight  places  of  torment  by  fire,  and  eight 
other  places  of  cold  and  other  torments.  The  judge  of  hell  is  a 
Chang  chub,  called  Ghenrezi,  but  as  judge  of  hell  he  is  called  Shinche 
chio  kiel,  which  means  most  upright  and  just  king  of  law.  This 
judge  of  their  hell  holds  in  his  hands  a  very  smooth  mirror,  in 
which  he  sees  all  the  works  and  sins,  according  to  which  he  judges. 
Each  man  has  a  Lha  as  guardian  and  as  his  advocate  to  repre- 
sent to  the  judge  the  good  actions  of  the  culprit.  The  Lha  at  such 
times  places  in  the  balance  the  white  balls,  while  on  the  other  side 
there  is  a  Dre  (which  is  a  sort  of  demon),  who  shows  the  wicked 
actions,  and  according  to  the  number  of  the  mortal  sins  he  places  in 
the  other  scale  of  the  balance  black  balls ;  and  according  as  the  sins 
or  the  good  works  prevail  he  is  judged.  Of  these  kinds  of  demons 
there  are  two  sorts. 

The  first  are  called  Dre,  who  are  no  other  than  men  and  women, 
who  from  too  great  love  of  this  world,  or  of  riches,  or  corruptible 
beauty,  or  the  like,  do  not  on  death  experience  any  transmigration, 
but  remain  in  Pario,  which  is  the  separation  of  the  soul  from  the 
body  for  seven  days,  this  being  also  an  article  of  their  faith ;  as, 
according  to  their  law,  when  men  and  women  die,  the  soul  remains 
separated  from  the  body  for  seven  days  before  transmigration,  and  on 
the  conclusion  of  those  seven  days  the  soul  transmigrates  according 
to  its  good  or  bad  actions. 

The  above-named  souls  of  the  men  and  women  remain  in  Farto, 
or  are  separated  from  the  body,  on  account  of  the  worldly  lusts  re- 
ferred to  above,  not  for  seven  days,  but  for  a  long  series  of  years, 
wandering  through  the  air  enraged  and  disconsolate,  and  happy  only 
when  they  can  injure  men,  after  which  their  satisfik^tion  is  turned  into 
madness  at  not  having  inflicted  greater  injury,  and  on  all  mankind. 
When  their  term  is  expired  they  migrate  to  the  hell  called  Narme^  and 
become  a  sort  of  demon  called  Dre,  as  has  been  said,  being  appointed 
ministers  of  justice  in  hell,  and  as  they  torment  the  condemned  souls, 
so  the  more  are  they  tormented  by  the  others. 

The  other  sort  of  demon  is  called  Tu,  which  are  also  men  and 
women  who  migrate  to  the  place  of  the  Lha,  called  Dokham  or  Dope 
kham,  and  who  have  no  other  object  than  perpetually  to  injure  others. 
When  these  return  to  transmigrate  into  men  they  become  very  wicked, 
and  always  work  mischief  to  others.     The  chief  of  this  place,  Dok- 

»  "  The  Are  of  suffering."    (Kl.) 


834  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

ham,  is  called  Earob  vang  chn,  and  every  day  he  shoots  five  arrows 
thronghont  the  world,  which  are  Ngctrkiel,  pride;  Dochia,  Inznry; 
Shekingy  wrath  ;  PraJtoa^  envy ;  and  ThimUy  sloth  ;  and  those  who  are 
stmck  by  these  weapons  are  enrolled  under  his  rule,  and  become 
wicked  men.  If  this  chief  should  transmigrate  into  the  world  or  into 
others  in  the  person  of  some  king,  in  that  time  the  kingdom  will 
always  be  troubled,  whether  by  war,  or  famine,  or  pestilence,  and 
sach  a  king  will  always  oppress  greatly  his  subjects.  This  kind  of 
demon  called  Tu,  as  well  as  its  children,  is  a  tempting  demon,  and 
tempts  men  in  the  world  to  sin. 

The  last  saint  that  restored  the  Tibetan  law  is  called  Shahia 
Thupbay  which  means  the  powerful  one  of  the  Shakias,  which  is  the 
name  of  his  family.  In  Hindustani  he  is  called  Shakia  Muni,  son  of 
King  Sezang  Shakia,  of  the  city  of  Serkiasgy,  in  the  kingdom  of 
Bengal,  bom  through  an  enormous  aperture  in  the  right  side  of  his 
mother  Lha  mo  tzu  prul,'  a  prodigious  goddess,  and  brought  up  by  a 
Lha  called  Eiachin.^  He  was  washed  in  tepid  water  from  heaven, 
and  soon  became  a  gold  colour ;  and  according  to  a  story  told  to  me  in 
1780,  he  first  came  into  the  world  959  years  before  Christ,  or  2696 
years  ago.  This  Shakia  Thupba  restored  the  laws,  which  they  say 
had  then  decayed,  and  which  consist  now,  as  said  elsewhere,  of  106 
volumes,  in  which  volumes  the  disciples  of  Shakia  Thupba  wrote  all 
the  contents  of  these  books  after  the  death  of  their  master,  just  as 
they  had  heard  it  from  his  mouth.  They  say  that  there  were  first 
800  volumes,  but  that  the  heretics  (who  were  the  Bracmans  and  their 
followers,  of  whom  they  say  they  converted  many  to  their  laws) 
burned  192. 

In  this  kingdom  of  Bengal  and  its  confines,  and  some  other  places, 
Shakia  Thupba  propagated  his  law.  These  volumes  divide  them- 
selves into  two  kinds  of  laws,  one  of  which  comprises  60  books,  which 
are  called  laws  of  Dote,  and  the  other,  which  consists  of  88  volmnes, 
are  called  Khiute. 

In  the  first  60  volumes,  called  Dote,  the  life  of  Shakia  Thupba  is 
recorded,  with  all  his  titles,  and  the  deeds  and  miracles  done  through- 
out his  life,  which  lasted  161  years,  how  his  death  occurred,  and  all 
that  is  here  briefly  referred  to  is  told,  as  well  as  what  the  rule  of  the 
monk  is,  together  with  the  different  grades  of  dignity,  the  offices  and 
functions  of  the  monk.  For  novices,  a  stage  which  is  of  some  years' 
duration,  there  are  five  commandments ;  and  for  those  who  have  finished 
their  novitiate,  and  up  to  the  time  of  their  profession,  which  every 
monk  is  at  liberty  to  take  or  not,  there  are  ten  commandments ;  and 

»  The  goddess  of  illusion.    (Kl.)  »  The  Indra  of  the  Hindus.    (Kl.) 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  336 

for  those  who  have  made  their  profession  there  are  254  oommand- 
ments,  beside  three  vows  of  chastity,  obedience,  and  poverty;  but 
poverty  as  among  the  monks,  whose  possessions,  if  any,  go  to  the  monas- 
tery on  their  death.  The  role  is  the  same  for  the  nnns;  and  it  is 
recorded  in  the  said  books  that  Shakia  Thupba  did  not  wish  to  lay 
them  down,  as  he  said  that  these  nnns  had  prejudiced  greatly  the  pnre 
rites  of  the  monks,  as  afterwards  happened,  as  their  writers  say,  which 
they  extol  as  a  truthful  prophecy  of  this  saint  of  theirs,  who,  however, 
to  please  his  disciples,  who  were  importuned  by  the  women,  instituted 
the  rule  as  mentioned.  Of  the  monks  there  are  some  who  have  no  clau- 
sura^  and  can  go  out,  but  into  whose  monasteries  no  woman  may  enter. 
These  monks  have  also  monasteries  with  a  clauwra,  so  that  women 
cannot  enter  without  the  licence  of  the  superiors ;  and  the  monasteries 
of  the  nuns  have  also  a  clawmraf  so  that  neither  scholars  nor  monks 
may  enter,  excepting  he  who  has  the  special  care  of  the  monastery  by 
order  of  the  superior  to  whom  the  care  of  it  properly  belongs. 

There  are  also  the  three  ways  of  perfection  of  the  beginners,  the 
proficients,  and  the  perfected,  which  comprise  as  it  were  methods  of 
purging  oneself,  repentance  for  sins,  because  they  recognize  contrition 
and  a  resolve  to  correct  one's  ways,  and  a  kind  of  confession  almost 
like  that  of  St.  Augnstine.  All  the  monks,  and  nearly  all  the  scholars, 
choose  for  themselves  a  lama  or  monk  for  spiritual  father,  and  the 
penitent  acknowledges  having  sinned  before  his  spiritual  father,  and 
his  spiritual  father  offers  up  a  prayer  for  the  remission  of  the  sin 
which  he  has  confessed.  The  spiritual  father  is  called  Shiakpaho  at 
that  time,  which  means  one  who  pardons ;  he  who  confesses  is  called 
Shiakiul,  which  means  penitent ;  and  the  act  is  called  Tholshia,  or  con* 
fession.  The  second  grade  after  this  is  to  attend  to  the  acquisition  of 
the  moral  virtues ;  and  third,  to  take  part  in  the  contemplation  of  the 
delights  of  a  future  life,  free  from  all  the  affiurs  of  this  present  life, 
pitying  the  innumerable  miseries  of  men,  and  being  subject  to  a 
laborious  course  of  transmigrations. 

There  are  also  common  commandments  for  all  monks  as  well  as 
scholars,  but  for  a  monk  to  transgress  them  is  a  much  more  serious 
a&ir  than  for  a  scholar.  They  are,  firstly,  not  to  kill  (that  is, 
either  man  or  any  sort  of  animal) ;  secondly,  not  to  commit  fornica- 
tion ;  thirdly,  not  to  steal ;  fourtibly,  not  to  complain  ;  fifthly,  not  to 
lie ;  sixthly,  to  love  one's  father  and  mother ;  and  besides  these  six 
precepts,  one  is  enjoined  to  watch  the  three  doors,  of  the  heart,  the 
tongue,  and  the  body,  which  would  mean  thoughts,  words,  and  works. 
To  husbands  there  is  enjoined  another  obligatory  precept,  which  is, 
that  they  shall  not  approach  their  wives  in  the  daytime,  but  only  at 


336  HORACE  BELLA  PENNA.  [App. 

night,  and  only  as  often  as  the  law  allows,  and  not  more.  Having  fixed 
the  duties  of  married  folk,  it  is  fit  to  explain  the  rest.  The  law  of  the 
Dote  ordains  that  those  about  to  marry  shall  not  take  blood  relations 
or  connections  unless  the  seventh  degree  be  passed,  and  yet  it  is  true 
that  these  great  lords  and  nobles  do  not  observe  this ;  and  in  the  mar^ 
riage  tie  among  people  of  no  great  means  there  is  a  very  bad  abuse  not 
ordained  by  the  law,  but  introduced  by  the  abuse  of  it,  that  as  many 
brothers  as  live  in  one  house  take  one  wife  for  all,  and  attribute  the 
offspring  to  him  by  whom  the  woman  says  she  was  with  child ;  but  this 
seldom  occurs  with  noble  folk  or  those  in  easy  circumstances,  who  take 
one  wife  alone,  and  sometimes,  but  rarely,  more»  The  nuptials  are  cele- 
brated thus :  after  having  made  the  matrimonial  contract,  and  arranged 
a  day  for  the  wedding,  the  bridegroom  goes  with  his  own  relations  to 
the  house  of  the  bride,  where  he  will  find  the  relations  of  the  bride,  and 
the  father  or  the  nearest  relation  of  the  bridegroom  asks  her  whether 
she  will  take  his  son  or  relation  for  husband,  and  if  she  says  yes,  he 
places  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  head  of  the  bride ;  the  father  or  nearest 
relation  of  the  bride  asks  the  same  question  of  the  bridegroom,  and 
having  both  their  consents  he  places  a  piece  of  butter  on  his  forehead, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  bride.  These  rites  having  been  performed  the 
marriage  is  completed,  after  which  they  aU  go  to  visit  the  temple 
and  go  round  it,  and  return  to  the  bride's  house,  where,  for  fifteen 
days,  they  remain  feasting,  go  about  the  city  in  company  witii  the  rela- 
tions and  friends,  engage  in  conversation,  and  congratulate  each  other. 
At  the  end  of  the  fifteen  days  the  bridegroom  conducts  the  bride  to 
his  home. 

In  this  law  of  Dote  there  are  prayers  and  methods  of  praying 
which  the  monks  use,  and  modes  of  sacrificing,  which  consist  in 
making  pyramids  of  barley  paste  and  rosettes  of  butter,  white,  yellow, 
red,  blue,  green,  or  other  colours,  and  fastening  them  to  that  part  of  ihe 
pyramid  which  is  seen.  They  then  place  them  on  the  altars,  if  held 
in  the  temple,  or  on  the  little  altars,  which,  as  well  as  chapels,  all  the 
scholars  and  monks  have  in  their  own  houses  and  rooms  with  their 
idols.  These  sacrifices  are  offered  up  every  day  with  some  prayera, 
both  in  the  temples  and  houses,  but  only  by  monks  appointed  to  the 
office  of  sacrificial  duties.  On  other  solemn  occasions  they  sacriiloe 
with  songs  and  music,  and  the  instruments  are  of  several  kind& 
Some  are  like  a  sort  of  large  flute,  others  like  trumpets,  being 
twisted  and  excessively  long.  There  are  also  great  conch  shells, 
rattles,  drums,  tambourines,  &c.  The  songs  are  figured  and  with  nol86> 
and  the  above-named  instruments  harmonise  with  them.  There  is 
also  the  sacrifice  done  by  fire,  and  many  things  are  thrown  into  il 


App.]  HORACE  DELLA  PENNA.  337 

This  18  ft  long  rite,  and  it  is  oelebiated  with  songs  and  mnsio  and 
much  solemnity,  bat  not  often.  They  also  make  many  other  offerings 
every  day,  both  in  the  temples  and  honses  of  monks  and  laymen, 
sach  as  plain  water  and  water  oolonred  with  flowers,  beer,  and  other 
things  (beer  they  always  plaoe  on  the  heads  of  men),  all  the  first 
fruits,  and,  before  meals,  a  little  of  what  is  served  up.  The  pyramids, 
when  offered  up,  are  given  to  the  poor,  the  beer  to  the  monks  and 
scholars,  and  the  water,  flowers,  &o.,  are  thrown  away  on  the  following 
day,  and  renewed  if  it  is  desired.  There  are  many  prayers,  but  the 
•  commonest  among  monks  and  scholars  is  this :  Mom  mani  jpeh  me 
Amn,^  which  is  a  summary  of  magic  prayer,  having  a  great  meaning 
attached  to  each  letter.  The  meaning  woold  take  too  long  to  explain, 
and  is  therefore  omitted. 

The  monks  and  laymen  have,  if  they  please,  two  sorts  of  fiusts, 
called  Niunne  and  Nienne,  meaning  a  rigorous  and  a  plain  fast 
respectively.  The  first  they  observe  rigorously  for  four-and-twenty 
hours,  neither  allowing  themselves  to  spit  nor  to  smoke ;  and  if  any- 
one wishes  to  observe  it  for  three  days  consecutively  (as  many  do),  they 
take  every  four-and-twenty  hours,  in  the  morning,  only  three  cups  of 
plain  tea,  in  the  Tibetan  fashion.  The  other  sort  of  fast,  Nienne,  is 
not  so  strict,  as  in  the  evening,  if  they  do  not  eat,  they  may  drink. 
But  these  fasts  are  held  more  for  the  scholars  than  the  monks.  The 
professed  monks  are  ei^oined  during  their  lives  to  eat  nothing  after 
dinner,  though  they  may  drink,  beer  alone  being  excepted,  and  even 
this  is  forbidden  to  all  monks  to  drink  unless  it  be  offered  up  or  saori* 
ficed.  They  are  advised  by  their  law,  the  monks  more  especially,  to  ob-r 
serve  every  year  a  period  of  spiritual  seclusion,  for  ten  or  fifteen  days, 
one  month,  or  more,  according  to  their  wish.  The  well-to-do  scholars 
and  the  great  lords  keep  it  in  the  monks'  monasteries,  and  the  King 
sometimes  in  the  monasteries  and  sometimes  in  the  principal  palace ; 
and  at  the  time  of  seclusion  no  one  does  business  with  them,  except 
when  absolutely  necessary.  Another  monk  has  the  duty  of  supplying 
the  wants  of  those  in  seclusion,  without,  however,  speaking  to  them, 
except  by  signs ;  and  if  they  are  in  their  rooms,  except  for  such  brief 
time  as  they  confer,  they  attend  to  the  reading  of  their  books,  to 
prayers,  and  meditations  on  the  miseries  of  human  existence;  and 
whoever  wishes  to  confer  with  them  must  first  obtain  permission. 

In  the  processions  which  they  make  during  the  year  the  priests 
carry  a  sort  of  surplice,  little  differing  from  ours,  and  the  Supreme 
iLama,  as  well  as  all  the  Ghrand  Lamas  and  re-bom  Lamas,  and  all  the 

>  ^  Om  mampadmi  hwn,'*    (See  pp.  1,  29,  82,  805.) 

Z 


338  HORACE  DELLA  PJBNNA.  T  c      [App. 

superior  Lamas  of  the  monasteries,  cany  priests'  capes,  just  like  ours, 
worn  simplj  over  the  religions  dress.  Thej  have  a  sort  of  cro8S 
which  they  hold  in  yeneration. 

This  is  a  very  hrief  acoonnt  of  the  law  called  Dote,  hj  observing 
which  they  think  they  proceed  more  snrely,  though  more  slowly,  on 
acoonnt  of  the  nmnber  of  transmigrations  which  they  have  to  expe- 
rience before  becoming  saint. 

The  other  part  of  the  thirty-six  volumes  of  the  law  Ehiute  gives 
precepts  for  practising  magic,  and  other  foul  matters  of  luxury  and 
lust;  and  the  monks  and  followers  of  this  Ehiute  have  monasteries 
and  a  temple,  and  rooms  for  the  Lama  or  superior  of  the  convent,  but 
the  monks  eat  and  drink  in  common  in  the  said  temple.    I  have  not 
read  this  infamous  and  filthy  law  of  Ehiute,  so  as  not  to  stain  my 
mind,  and  because  it  is  unnecessaiy.    For  to  confute  it  one  must 
know  in  the  abstract  of  what  it  treats,  and  there  is  little  good  or 
indifferent  that  is  not  mixed  up  with  much  more  witchcraft,  magic 
incantations,  and  obscenity.    For  the  monks  of  this  unworthy  law  it 
is  enough  that  they  learn  by  heart  twenty-five  papers  to  attain 
the  doctor's  degree ;  but  for  the  other  monks  of  the  Dote  to  become 
doctors  they  must  study  philosophy  for  twelve  years,  and  for  six 
months  in  every  year  they  have  daily  discussions.    After  the  twdve 
years  have  passed  they  are  examined  and  attain  their  doctorship. 
This  law  of  Ehiute  is  the  shortest  road  to  holiness,  but  it  is  uncertain 
and  rough,  because  those  who  observe  well  the  precepts  of  this  law, 
and  practice  that  which  it  teaches,  can  become  saint  in  one  life  with- 
out any  other  transmigrations,  but  if  they  do  not  observe  them  weU 
they  increase  their  transmigrations,  and  very  often  go  to  the  hell 
Narmej  where  they  must  remain  longer  than  all  the  others,  or  are 
tormented  more  than  all  the  others. 

There  is  also  in  Tibet  another  law,  called  Urkien,  which  is  worse 
than  wicked,  and  consists  entirely  of  magic  and  obscenities.  Its 
lawgiver  has  also  instituted  monks  and  nuns,  but  different  from  those 
of  Shakia  Thupba,  as  the  nuns  of  this  Urkien  are  the  wives  of  the 
monks,  who  have  more  than  one.  In  this  law  of  Urkien,  as  well  as 
in  the  other  two  of  Shakia  Thupba,  they  teach  you  to  make  crowns 
of  human  bones,  to  use  human  skulls  for  magic  goblets,  as  also  out 
of  the  shin  and  arm  bones  to  make  pipes,  or  trifles  with  which  to 
carry  on  incantations,  sorceries,  and  every  sort  of  magic. 

If  the  monks  are  asked  they  visit  the  sick,  being  treated  and  fed 
with  great  liberality  by  the  laymen.  If  the  sick  man  is  expiring  or 
has  breathed  his  last,  one  of  the  monks  appointed  to  the  task  is  called 
to  extract  the  soul  from  the  body  by  the  top,  by  removing  some  haizs 


App.] 


HORACE  BELLA  PEKKA. 


339 


from  the  summit  of  the  head,  aa  it  is  an  article  of  their  faith  that  the 
soul  does  not  issue  from  the  top  of  the  head  for  a  good  transmigration 
unless  it  be  extracted  by  one  of  the  appointed  monks,  in  the  manner 
described,  becanse  if  it  were  not  extracted  so  it  would  issue  from  the 
lower  part  of  the  body,  and  would  take  an  evil  transmigration. 

This  rite  being  performed,  and  divers  prayers  having  been  re- 
cited by  the  said  monk,  with  the  assistance  of  the  friends  and 
relations  of  the  deceased,  they  consult  the  Ghokhiong  ^  as  to  what 
hoar  the  dead  man  must  be  carried  to  one  of  the  places  set  apart 
for  the  remaining  rites,  and  take  him  thither  with  the  above-men- 
tioned people  accompanying,  and  many  others  reciting  divers  things ; 
and  when  they  have  arrived^  they  celebrate    other  rites,  placing 
the  naked  corpse  on  a  great  stone.     Then  a  professed  scholar, 
taking  for  himself  all  the  clothes,  breaks  the  corpse  to  pieces  with 
a  great  bar  of  iron,  and  distributes  it  among  the  dogs  in  presence 
of  all  the  company.    After  the  mastiffs  are  satisfied,  the  relations 
of  the  deceased  gather  up  the  most  clean-picked  and  the  largest 
bones,  and  make  a  bundle  of  them,  throwing  all  that  is  left  by 
the  dogs  into  the  neighbouring  river,  near  which  are  the  places  set 
apart  for  this  inhuman  rite.    The  men  during  the  time  of  mourning 
never  dress  in  silk,  but  only  in  wool ;  and  the  women  take  from  their 
hats,  and  from  every  other  part  of  their  dress,  the  pearls  and  other 
precious  ornaments,  which  according  to  the  fashion  of  the  country 
they  are  accustomed  to  carry  at  other  times.    They  let  down  their 
hair  and  bind  it  upon  their  hats  for  six  moliths,  and  for  another  six 
months  they  wear  it  dishevelled  below  the  hat.    If  the  deceased  is  of 
the  first  degree,  for  a  year,  and  if  of  an  inferior  rank,  for  less.     The 
relations  carry  the  above-mentioned  bundles  of  bones  home.    They 


>  t.  e, .  defender  of   the  law.     Thia 
official  is  elected  by  the  people  by  order 
of  the  Supreme  Grand  Lama,  whom  he 
afiaists,  with  the  concurrence  of  the 
King,  minifiters  of  state,  great  lords, 
and  many  people,  in  the  temple,  on  the 
oocaaion  of  a  festival.    He  is  chosen 
for  his  great  experience  in  art  magic. 
After  being  elected  by  the  above-men- 
tioned personages,  and  acknowledged 
by  the  people,  he  is  consulted  by  the 
people  in  all  private  matters,  and  for 
hifl  oracular  replies  in  questions  re- 
lating to  the  future.      At  the  four 
seasons  of  the  moon  he  goes  out  in 
public  to  make  the  Kora,  or  circuit  of 
the  great  temple,  being  dressed  in  a 


costume  peculiar  to  himself,  with  a 
retinue  of  servants,  who  carry  stand- 
ards, knives,  and  arrows ;  and  walking 
proudly,  poising  himself  on  the  tips  of 
Mb  toes,  while  from  time  to  time  he 
hurls  knives  and  arrows,  according  as 
he  is  more  or  less  possessed,  and  he 
who  is  struck  goes  and  throws  himself 
at  his  feet  and  places  them  on  his  own 
head.  The  said  Kora  having  been 
made,  he  returns  to  his  house  and  puts 
on  the  dress  of  a  monk,  if  he  be  a 
churchman,  and  that  of  a  layman  if  he 
be  such.  They  elect  many  of  these 
CTumg  chub  in  other  cities  and  inha- 
bited places.    (Delia  P.) 

Z  2 


840  HORACE  DEIXA  PBNNA.  [App. 

hang  them  up  in  the  room  where  the  deoeased  was,  and  there  for 
many  days  they  employ  monks  to  pray  and  sacrifice  for  the  departed, 
that  he  may  not  suffer  in  his  transmigratiol^y  distributing  largely 
according  to  their  means  to  the  monks  and  the  {k>or.  sudi  goods  and 
money  as  the  deceased  possessed. 

On  the  anniyersary  of  the  death,  the  relations  and  friends,  with 
the  monks  who  were  invited,  grind  to  powder  the  above-mentioned 
bones,  and  carry  them  to  the  river,  and  for  some  days  afterwards 
the  monks  offer  up  prayers  and  sacrifices  as  before^  in  the  house  of 
the  deceased. 

The  corpses  of  some  nobles,  with  the  permission  of  the  Supreme, 
or  Yice-Orand  Lama,  are  burned. 

Those  of  the 'Kings,  the  Supreme  or  Vice-Grand  Lamas,  are  burned 
with  sandal  wood,  as  well  as  the  other  Grand  Lamas.     Those  of  the 
monks  and  nuns  are  carried  to  the  mountain  tops  as  food  for  the 
birds  of  prey.     The  giving  of  the  corpses  tO  the  dogs  is  done  as  an 
act  of  charity,  so  that  afteor  death  they  may  be  useful  to  the  living. 
Those  of  the  monks  are  given  to  birds,  because  they  believe  that  the 
monks  transmigrate  into  birds  and  other  flying  creatures,  on  whom 
they  confer  acts  of  charity  by  giving  them  the  flesh  of  their  own 
bodies.     And  this  is  all  that  can  be  told  briefly  respecting  so  prolix 
and  intricate  a  sul^ject  as  that  contained  in  the  confused  chaos  of 
Tibetan  law. 

Fba  Fsakoesco  Obazio  Dblla  Fknita  di  Bilu, 

Capuchin  Missumary  of  the  March  of  Anoona,  now  Prefect 

of  the  Mission  of  Itbet 


(    841    ) 


INDEX. 


Agriculture  in  Bhutan,  64 ;   in  Tibet, 

74, 316;  machine  for  cutting  straw,  77. 
Alexander,  Claud,  of  Ballochmyle,  cxxxi ; 

executor  of  A.  Elliot,  cxlyi  (n) ;  and  of 

G.  Bogle,  cliii. 
Amba,  Chinese  residents,  at  Lhasa,  xlriii, 

165,  175,  195  (jKe  Keshen). 
Amhari  Fala-kottah,  Ixx,  Ixxii,  c. 
Amdoa,  State  of,  309,  313,  318. 
Amiat,  Father,  his  account  of  the  death 

of  the  Teshu  Lama,  209  (n). 
Amitabha,  a  Dhyani  Buddha,  incarnate 

in  Tsong-khapa,  xlvi. 
Am-machn  river,  in  the  Chnmbi  valley, 

xxxY,  xxxrii  {tee  Chumbi). 
Anderson,     David,    friend     of    Warren 

Hastings  and   G.  Bogle,  cxxxi,  cxlix, 

cliii. 
Andes,  comparison  with  the  Him&laja, 

xli,  12. 
And  rada,  Antonio,  a  Jesuit,  his  jonmey 

from  India  to  China,  Ivi. 
Annf,  a  Buddhist  nun,  I,  121  (we  Nnn). 
Antelope,  72. 

An,  WestemTibet,  xxvi  (n),  309  (sm  Nari). 
Ari-jong,  ex. 
Arrowsmith,  Aaron,  his  map  of  Tibet, 

cxxvi. 
Amn  river,  xxr,  xxxii,  xxxvi,  Ixxvii,  cxv. 
Asoka,  Buddhist  king,  xliii. 
Ass,  wild,  72. 
Assam,  annexation  of,  lead  to  increased 

connection  with  Bhutan,  Ixxxi,  c ;  trade 

with  Tibet,  cxix,  58,  59;  description, 

routes,  59 ;     suggested  expedition  to, 

68 ;  a  vakil  from,  refused   admission 

at  Lhasa,  165. 
Austen,  Major  Godwin,  accompanied  Mr. 

Eden's  mission,  c ;  his  survey  and  map 

of  Bhutan,  cxxix. 
Avalokiteswara,  a  Buddhisatwa,  incarnate 

in  the  Dalai  Lama,  xlvii. 

Baomatti  river,  xxxrii. 

Bahadar    Sah,   Regent   of  Nepal,  Ixxvi, 

Ixxviii. 
Bahar  (jue  Euch  Bahar). 
Baidak  river,  55. 


Baisi  rajahs  in  Nepal,  xxxv. 

Banks,  Sir  Joseph,  K.B.,  introduces  Mr. 
Manning  to  the  Chairman  E.  I.  C,  elvi. 

Banners  of  Buddhists,  20,  70. 

Barantola,  297  (n),  297,  309. 

Barwell,  Mr.,  his  loval  support  of  Warren 
Hastings,  cxliii ;  leaves  India,  cxiix. 

Battu,  xli,  304. 

Bees  in  Bhutan,  66. 

Beegars,  87. 

Bell,  Dr.,  the  first  Englishman  at  Peking, 
167  (n). 

Benares,  Ixxviii ;  Mr.  Markham,  resident 
at,  cxxxi  (n) ;  Jonathan  Duncan,  resi- 
dent, cxxxi  (n) ;  trade  route  from,  128, 
142  (jue  Cheyt  Sing). 

Bengalis,  comparison  with  Bhutanese, 
18 ;  astonishment  at  sight  of  snow,  64 
(see  Servants). 

Berghaus'  map  of  Central  Asia,  cxxix. 

Bhatgaon,  liv,  126,  299  (n). 

Bhei  river,  xxxv. 

Bhim  Sen  Thappa,   minister   in  Nepal, 

Ixxx,  Ixxxvii. 
*Bhotia  Koei,  xxt,  xxxvi. 

Bhutan,  correspondence  opened  with 
rulers  of,  xxi ;  rivers  of,  xxxv,  xxxviii ; 
extent  of,  xxxvii ;  tribes  of.  Hi ;  tradi- 
tions as  to  origin,  Iv ;  missions  sent  by 
Warren  Hastings  to,  Ixviii,  Ixx,  Ixxii ; 
frontier  disturbances,  Ixxxi ;  mission 
of  Kishen  Kant  Bose  to,  Ixxxii ;  Pem- 
berton's  mission,  Ixxxiii ;  history  of  our 
connection  with,  xdx ;  Eden's  mission, 
c ;  war  with,  ci ;  treaty,  d,  4  (n) ; 
maps  of,  cxxviii ;  confusion  in  the  name, 
6  (n) ;  history  of;  33,  192  ;  provincial 
governors,  36;  taxes,  36;  change  of 
government,  39 ;  titles  of  councillors, 
43  (n) ;  advantages  to,  of  opening  com- 
munications, 50 ;  IMars  naturally  sub- 
ject to,  55 ;  recommendations  in  event 
of  war  with,  56,  57 ;  trade  with  Assam, 
58 ;  soldiers  of,  62 ;  their  «rms,  63 ; 
boundary  of,  and  Tibet,  67;  Teshu 
Lama  on,  135.  Books  on,  sm  Turner, 
Pemberton,  Eden,  Rennie,  MacGregor 
(fM  Brukpa). 


342 


INDEX. 


Bhutanese,  war  in  Kifch  Bahar,  1  (n), 
oomparison  with  Bengalis,  18,  25;  ac- 
count of,  34,  192  ;  position  of  women, 
30,  64,  65  ;  classes  of,  35  ;  character, 
37, 193 :  favoarable  account  of,  51 ;  in- 
creased desire  to  trade,  52 ;  permit  to 
trade  at  Rangpiir,  53 ;  trade  with  people 
of  Diiars,  55  ;  will  adhere  to  the  treaty, 
58 ;  their  singing,  63 ;  robust  and  well- 
built,  75 ;  ,mono}X)l7  of  trade  hj  offi- 
cials, 183;  uegotiationfl  with,  184-186  ; 
position  of  their  country,  193. 

Bichu  river,  312. 

Bijapiir,  zzxvi ;  seized  by  the  Gorkha 
Kajah,  141,  149,  161,  165,  183. 

Black,  Charles  £.  D.,  Esq.,  acknowledg- 
ment of  assistance  from,  viiL 

Blake,  Ensign,  accompanied  Captain  Pern* 
berton  to  Bhutan,  Izxxiii. 

Blanford,  W.  T.,  Esq.,  exploration  of  Sik- 
kim,  ciii. 

Bod,  native  name  of  Tibet,  xxri,  6,  10, 
15  (n)  {or  Bhot). 

Boddam,  Mr.,  a  creditor  of  China,  207. 

Bod-la,  pass  into  Tibet,  15. 

Bogle,  Anne,  sister  of  George  Bogle,  cxxxiii, 
cxxxvi ;  death  of,  cl  (n). 
,  Elizabeth,  cxxxyiii. 

,  John,  brother  o^  cxxxiii ;  a  mer- 
chant in  Virginia,  cxxxIy. 
,  George  (elder)  of  Daldowie,  cxxxii ; 
grateful  letter  to  his  son,  cxlix. 

— ,  George,  mission  to  Tibet,  ili,  v,  Ixvii, 
cxx ;  materials  for  a  narrative  of  his 
mission,  v,  xxii ;  birth  and  parentage, 
cxxxii ;  early  recollections,  cxxxiii ;  edu- 
cation, cxxziv  ;  goes  to  India,  account 
of  the  Bengal  famine,  cxzxv;  in  the* 
Revenue  Board,  oxxxvi ;  his  character  of 
Warren  Hastings,  cxxxvii ;  letters  from 
Tibet,  cxzxix ;  necklace  presented  to,  by 
the  Teshu  Lama,  cxxxix;  flill  approval 
of  his  proceedings,  cxli ;  deprived  of  his 
appointments  by  the  Francis  clique, 
cxliii;  loyalty  to  Warren  Hastings, 
cxliii,  cxliv ;  appointed  on  a  Revenue 
Settlement  Commission,  cxlv ;  his  grief 
at  the  death  of  A.  Elliot,  cxlvi ;  col- 
lector at  Rangpiir,  cxlvii;  veneration 
for  Warren  Hastings,  cxlvii;  genero- 
sity, cxlvili ;  death  and  character,  cl ; 
intentions  to  publish  his  papers,  cliii ; 
selected  as  Envoy  to  Tibet,  4,  5 ;  in- 
structions to,  6 ;  sets  out  from  Calcutta, 
14;  journey  to  Tassisudon,  14-22; 
plants  potatoes  at  each  station  in 
Bhutan,  19 ;  arrives  at  Tassisudon,  23 ; 
interviews  with  the  Deb  Rajah,  24^  42 ; 
difficulties  as  to  his  proceeding  to  Tibet, 
48,  49 ;  advice  in  the  event  of  another 
Bhutan  war,  56 ;  leaves  Tassisudon,  61 ; 


reaches  Paro,  63 ;  arrival  at  Pari-jong, 
67  ;   journey  through  Tibet,   70-77 ; 
crosses  the  Tsanpu,  79;  rides  a  race 
with  Purungir,  79 ;  arrival  at  Desherip- 
gay,  81 ;  first  audience  of  the  Teshu 
Lama,  83 ;  adopts  a  Tibetan  dress,  88 ; 
departure  from  Desheripgay,  90  ;  badly 
lodged,  92 ;  acquaintance  with  the  Pyn 
Cu&os,  92 ;   his  tent,  94 ;  arrival  at 
Teshu    Lumbo,  95;    his    rooms,    96; 
visited  by  gylongs,  98  ;   plays  at  cheis 
with  a  general,  101 ;  his  monastic  life 
at  Teshu  Lumbo,  103 ;  amusements  and 
employment,  104 ;  his  constant  church- 
going,  105;  his  pleasant  intercourse  with 
the  Pyn  Cushos,  106;  visits  and  is  blessed 
by  an  abbess,  109 ;  writes  an  account 
of  Europe  for  the  Lama,  110;  visited 
by  nuns,  111 ;  his  visit  to  the  country 
seat  of  the  Pyn  Cushos,  112-118 ;  takes 
leave  of  the  Lama  and  his  relations,  118; 
Gesub  Rimboch^i  raised  obstacles  to  his 
journey,  131 ;  reason  for  not  going  to 
Lhasa,   132-154;    conversations   with 
the  Lama,  135-160 ;  interview  with  the 
Lhasa  Deputies,  147 ;  letter  to  Gesub 
Rimboche,  153 ;  restrains  curiosity  to 
prevent  suspicion,  155,  156  ;  interview 
with  merchants,  161-163 ;  receives  a 
paper  of  memoranda  from  the  Lama, 
164 ;  takes  leave  of  the  Lama,  165, 173, 
177;  recites  English  poetry  for  the  Lama, 
168  ;  leaves  Teshu  Lumbo,  177 ;  nego- 
tiations in  Bhutan,  184,  190,  200,  202  ; 
project  of  going  to  Peking,  208,  209. 

Bogle,  Martha  (Mrs.  Brown),  cxxxiii,  d  ; 
death  of,  cl  (n). 

,  Mary,  cxxxiii. 

y  Robert,  of  Daldowie,  cxxxiii;  of  the 

firm  of  Bogle  and  Scott,  cxxxiv ;  com- 
mercial loss  sustained  by,  cxxxvii ;  at 
Daldowie,  cxxxix ;  a  sugar  planter  in 
Grenada,  cxxxix  (n)  ;  letter  to,  cxlvii  ; 
succeeds  his  father  at  Daldowie,  cl ;  in- 
tention of  publishing  his  brother's 
papers,  cliii. 

Borax  trade,  cxvi,  cxvii,  cxix. 

Bouchier,  Mr.,  a  creditor  of  China,  207. 

Bowani  Ganj  fort,  15. 

Brahmaputra  river,  xxiii ;  tributaries, 
xxvii ;  upper  valley  of,  xxix ;  identity 
with  the  Tsanpu  of  Tibet,  xxx ;  ques- 
tion of  the  course  of,  9,  191 ;  aifflu^kts 
of,  55 ;  mart  for  Assam  trade  on  tke^ 
58 ;  route  to  Assam  by,  59  (aee  TsanpoX 

Bramashon,  a  name  of  Sikkim,  Ixiv,  311, 
313. 

Bridge  at  Chuka,  20 ;  description,  21 ;  at 
Phuncholing,  over  the  Tsanpu,  cxi. 

Brown,  Mrs.  (see  Bogle,  Martha). 

,  Thomas,  Esq.,  of  Lanfine,  cli. 


INDEX. 


ais 


Brown,  Miss,  of  LanfiiMy  kindnos  in  pre- 
senting   ike    Bogle    MSS^    t,    cIit; 
poswttor  of  pert  of  the  Teahu  Lama's 
necklace,  cxzziz. 
Bmoe,  Colonel,  negotiator  of  peace  with 

Bhutan,  cii. 
Brakpa,  a  name  for  Bhutan,  Izir,  311. 
Buddha  (DhTani),  zItI,  11  (sm  Sakya). 
Buddhiam  in  India,  zliii,  72, 143;  pilgrims 
from  China,  zliv ;  Tibetan  form  o^  xIt, 
328 ;  sects,  zlrii,  24  (n),  1 79 ;  sacerdotal 
orders,  1 ;  monasteries,  1 ;  serrices,  li ; 
literature,  li ;   serrices  in  Bhutan,  27 ; 
ioTocation  of  '*  Om  mani  padaii  hum," 
29,  32 ;  erection  of  a  temple  in  India, 
138,  164,  165,  168. 

Bnddhisatwas,  xlr,  xlrii,  zlyili,  xciz. 

Bal-cho  lake,  cxTii. 

Bnlrampur,  56. 

Burial  {see  Interment). 

Buria-Gandak  rirer,  xxt,  zxxt. 

Bnri-Rangit  river,  xxxyii. 

Buri  Gum&h  Diiar,  occupation  by  Engliah, 
Ixxxii. 

Burlton,  Captain,  explores  the  Dihong,xxx. 

Buxa-Dtfar,  Ixix,  Ixxii,  Ixxxiii ;  seized  and 
occupied,  ci ;  Bhutanese  driren  up  to, 
1  (n),  2  (n) ;  Mr.  Bogle  arriyes  at^  16, 
17 ;  Deb  Judhur's  flight  from,  38 ;  sug- 
gestion as  to  occupation  of,  56 ;  route 
from,  62 ;  under  soremment  of  Paro 
Penlo,  65, 66 ;  trade,  183, 201 ;  return 
to,  190. 

Caloashub  Tillage,  73. 
Galo-chu  Uke,  73,  222. 
Gampbell,  Dr.  Archibald,  notice  of,  Ixxxix ; 
his  residence  at  Darjfling,  xc ;  his  writ- 
ings, xdi  (n);  his  opinion  respecting 
Bhutan,  c 
Campbell,  Sir  George,  interriew  with  the 

Sikkim  Rajah,  cir,  cxxii. 
Cantalbary,  213,  294  (ue  Kantalbari> 
Canton,  167. 

Capuchins  in  Tibet,  lix,  Ixt,  315,  321. 
Celibacy  in  Bhutan,  37. 
Central  Chain  of  the  Him&Iaya,  xxxi,  243 
(n) ;  crossed  by  Bogle,  74 ;  crossed  by 
Manning,  224. 
Chaitya,  27  (n),  32  (n). 
Chamnamring,  xxiz,  78,  80,  82,  91,  155, 

182 ;  cold  at,  193  {see  Namling). 
Ghamurchi  Difar,  annexed,  c;    pass  of, 

56,65. 
Chang,  a  fermented  liquor,  106,  108. 

,  proTinoe  of,  182  (see  Tsang). 

Ofanngay  Lama,  xlix,  130,  146,  199,  207. 

Changchenmo  pass,  xxiii. 

Changzed  Rabu,  Dewan  of  Sikkim,  civ. 

Chnnon,  66. 

Chanzo  Cusho,  brother  of  the  Teshu  Lama, 


Izxiii,  91  (n%  93,  94^  96,  98,  99,  103, 
104,  106,  139  (hX  171. 
Charta  Tsanpu  river,  ex. 
Chaubisi  Bajah,  country  in  Nepal,  xzrvi, 
Chaudnri  visits  Mr.  Bogle,  102,  168,  170, 

172;  intrigue  of,  172-176. 
Chayanpur,  xxxvi. 
Chepang  tribe,  in  Nepal,  lii. 
Chess,  92,  101,  104. 

Cheyt  Sing's  vakil,  91,  102;  conduct  of, 
139. 

Chichakotta,  night  attack  of  Bhutanese 
on,  1  (n),  2  (n) ;  Mr.  Bogle  arrives  at, 
15  ;  suggested  occupation  of,  56. 

Chidzun  Tamba,  134. 

China,  Manchu  dynasty  of,  Iv  ;  survey  of, 
by  the  Jesuits,  Ixi;  trade  with  Tibet, 
cxviii,  125;  necessity  for  negotiation 
with,  to  remove  obstructions  to  enter- 
ing Tibet,  cv,  cxx,  208,  209 ;  seal  of 
the  Emperor  circulated  in  Bhutan,  38  ; 
policy  of  keeping  out  Europeans,  Ixxix, 
xcvii,  cv,  45,  46,  48,  148,  151,  164 ; 
sovereignty  over  Tibet,  xlviii,  130,  322 ; 
wars  of  the  Emperor  Kien-lung,  134 
(nX  135,  207  ;  rebellions  against,  159 ; 
threatened  war  with  Russia,  160, 166 ; 
fear  of,  in  Bhutan,  188 ;  influence  of 
Teshu  Lama  with  Emperor  of,  196 ; 
creditors  of,  207. 

Chinese,  Buddhist  pilgrims,  xliv ;  invasion 
of  Nepal  by,  Ixxvi,  Ixxvii;  defeat  of 
invadera  from  Ladak  by,  xcv ;  troops 
in  Tibet,  xcix;  merchants  at  Teshu 
Lumbo,  117;  at  Lhasa,  195;  general 
at  Pari-jong,  217,  230 ;  advice  of,  223 ; 
concert  given  by,  237 ;  soldiers  cured 
by  Mr.  Manning,  218 ;  obliging  conduct 
of,  227  ;  jokes  with,  241 ;  character  of, 
241  (n). 

Chinchu  river,  xxxviii,  24 ;  ceremony  of 
bathing  in,  28 ;  route  along  course  of, 
62  ;  junction  with  the  Pachu,  63. 

Cochuling  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  1,  zcvi, 
cxiii. 

Cho-la  pass,  xxzvii,  xciii,  civ. 

Cholamii  lake,  xciii. 

Chom,  cxvi,  77. 

Chomorang-la  pass,  cxiv. 

Chomtodong  lake,  xxxii,  cxv. 

Chronology,  Chinese,  166. 

Chua,  cxvi. 

Chilka,  suspension  bridge  at,  20. 

Chum  Cusho,  the  Teshu  Lama's  sister,  105; 
cured  by  Dr.  Hamilton,  106 ;  account 
of,  108 ;  takes  leave  of  Mr.  Bogle,  118. 

Chumalhari  peak,  xxviii,  xxxi,  xxxvii, 
xcii,  70,  72. 

Chumbi  valley,  xxxvii,  ci,  civ,  czxii. 

Chumnling    monastery,   near  Lhasa,    1, 


XCV1,  cxui. 


344 


INDEX. 


Chapka  («m  KepU). 

Chnrchill,  the  poet,  71  (and  n),  95  (n> 

Chosul-jong,  cxii. 

ClevUnd,     Aog^ostus,    cirilixer  of    th« 

Southals,  notice  of,  cxxxi  («). 
Clothing  (sM  Drew). 
Coinage  {tee  Currency). 
ComeU,  application  to  the  Lama,  for  a  list 

of,  166. 
Condamine,  M.  de  la,  zli,  12. 
Cornwallis,  Lord,  Qovemment  of,  policy 

as  to  Nepal  and  Tibet,  Ixxvi. 
Crawford,  Major,  hia  geographical  work 

in  Nepal,  cxzri. 
Camming,  Colonel,  13. 
Currency,  cxviii  (n),  128,  129. 
Cnsho  Debo,  192  {aee  Deb  Rajah). 

Dalai  Lama,  Bucceseion  founded,  xlvii ; 
an  incarnate  Buddhisatwa,  xlrii ;  Lob- 
sang  Kalsang  installed,  xlriii;  his 
death,  xcr;  Dalai  Lama  pacifies  the 
Khalkas,  xlix ;  letter  to  Lord  Com- 
wallis,  Ixxviii ;  to  Mr.  Hodgson,  Ixxxri ; 
sadden  deaths  of,  xcy  ;  lists  of^  xcviii 
(«) ;  rumoured  death  of,  xcviii ;  visit 
of  the  Pundit  to,  cxiii,  49;  illumi- 
nations on  birthday  of,  87 ;  Takils 
from,  94,  102,  103,  105;  notes  on, 
130,  131 ;  suggested  embassy  to,  159, 
164,  165,  169  ;  at  the  head  of  the  Yel- 
low sect,  179;  inrite  intervention  of 
China,  194,  195;  interview  of  Mr. 
Manning  with,  265,  288,  292 ;  Horace 
delta  Penna's  account  of,  320. 

Daldowie,  cxxxii ;  early  days  of  G.  Bogle 
at,  cxxxiii ;  projects  for  improyements 
at,  cxzxrii ;  G.  Bogle  pays  off  debt  on, 
cxxxTii,  cxlviii,  cxlix. 

Dalgu-cho  lake,  xxxii. 

Dalim-kotta,  occupied  by  the  English,  d, 
1  (n),  2  (n) ;  under  the  Paro  Penlo,  65 ; 
trade  by,  183,  201. 

Dalrymple,  Alexander,  proposal  to  edit 
Bogle's  MSS.,  cliii ;  notice  of,  cliii  (n). 

Damniargan-la  pass,  czyii. 

Dancing  in  Tibet,  92. 

Dango-la  pass,  xxxii. 

lyAnville,  opinion  as  to  course  of  Brah- 
maputra, XXX ;  maps  of,  zxxi,  Ixi,  cxxiv. 

Darjfling,  formation  of  hill  station  at, 
Ixxxix;  Dr.  Campbell  at,  xc;  Dr.  Hooker 
on,  xc ;  deputy  commissioners  of,  cii ; 
a  centre  of  trsde,  cxiz. 

Davis,  Sir  John,  acknowledgment  of  as- 
sistance from,  vii ;  reminiscences  of  Mr. 
Manning,  clix. 

Davis,  Captain  Samuel,  with  Turner's 
mission ;  his  sketches,  Izzi ;  notice  of, 
Ixxi  (n). 

Dawaln-giri  peak,  xxxv. 


Dayabung  peak,  zzzv. 
Deb  Rajah  of  Bhutan,  Iv,  Izzzii,  Izzziii; 
missions  to,  Ixviii,  Ixxii ;  treaty  with, 
cii,  cii  (n) ;  passport  from,  17 ;  return 
of,  to  Tassisudon,  24 ;  interview  with 
Mr.  Bogle,  24, 42 ;  election  of,  35, 192  ; 
opposes  intrigaes  of  Deb  Judhur,  40 ; 
suspicions  of,  47  ;  obstructive  conduct 
of,  49,  50,  200 ;  trading  of;  51, 133, 
161,  198,  201 ;  letters  to,  53  ;  tribute 
paid  to,  by  the  Faro  Penlo,  65,  69. 

Deb  Gylong  returns  with  Mr.  Bogle,  178. 

Deb  Judhur,  of  Bhutan,  invasion  of  Kuch 
Bahar,  1  (n) ;  his  career,  37,  192 ;  de- 
position, 38  ;  intrigues,  40,  50,  61,  62, 
69 ;  confined  at  Giansn,  78,  131,  135, 
141, 144 ;  dread  of,  in  Bhutan,184, 202. 

Deb  Seklu,  reign  of,  24,  61. 

Debo  Tangu,  Mr.  Bogle's  host  at  Giansn, 
181. 

Debang  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  1,  xcvL 

Debo  Dinji  Sampu,  101 ;  attends  on  Mr. 
Boele,  111;  made  Governor  of  Jong- 
lacK  117. 

Debo  Patza,  a  Tibetan  general,  plays  at 
chess  with  Mr.  Bogle,  101 ;  his  retreat 
fVom  Sikkim,  164 ;  meets  Mr.  Bogle  on 
the  road,  178. 

Demalung,  a  village  on  the  Palti  lake, 
244  (n),  248  (n). 

Demo  Jong  (or  Sikkim),  71,  101,  128, 
149,  151,  157,  li9,  197;  invaded  by 
the  Gorkhas,  144. 

Desgodins,  Abbi^  account  of  Tibetan  trade, 
cxviii. 

Desheripgay,  palaoe  of  the  Teshn  Lama, 
81,  82 ;  departure  of  Mr.  Bogle  from, 
90, 96, 145 ;  interviews  with  the  Luna 
at,  135, 163. 

Desideri,  Hippolito,  Jesuit,  journey  to 
Lhasa,  vii ;  notice  o^  Iviii ;  discovery  of 
manuscript  jonrnals  of^  liz;  iraveb 
of,  302-308. 

Dewangiri,  Ixxziii;  guns  captured  at,  d; 
centre  of  trade,  czix. 

Dharma  Rajah  {see  Lama  Rimbocli^ 

Dhiins,  zzziv. 

Dhyani  Buddhas,  zlv,  xlvi. 

Dihong  river,  xxix ;  explored  by  frapiain 
Burlton,  xxz. 

Dickinson,  Lieut., attacked  at  Ckicfaakotia, 
1  (*X  2  (n). 

DinajpAr,  Mr.  Bogle  passes  throngik,  14| 
48 ;  Paro  Penlo  desires  to  send  a  tzsMl- 
ing  agent  to,  52 ;  peak  seen  frooB,  71, 
301  (n). 

Dingri  Maidan,  xxxii,  Izzvii,  czw  (jar 
Tengri  MaidsA). 

Dogs  of  Tibet,  68,  114,  116,  224,  339. 

Dogras,  invasion  of  Tibet,  by  an  arvay  ci, 
czv. 


INDEX. 


845 


Dokpas,  czTi. 

Dongdot-U  pass,  ciri. 

Doakia  pass,  xxri,  xxzvii,  cii. 

Donnai,  title  of  head  Dewan  in  Bhutan, 

62,  66. 
Doryille,  Father,  companion  of  Gmeber, 

lyi,  295 ;  death  of,  300. 
Dospa  coantry,  78. 
Dre8s,TibeUn,  88,120, 228, 316 ;  prejudices 

respecting,  229  (n) ;  warm  clothing,  240. 
I^ungarians,    army    of,   invades    Tibet, 

xlviii,  319  (n). 
Ddars,  xxxir ;  description  of,  xxxyii,  55 ; 

names  of  the,  xxxviii,  cii  (n)  ;  occupa- 
tion of,  Ixxxii,  c,  cii ;  cession  of,  cii ; 

maps  o^   cxxix,   16  (n);    trade  with 

Bhutan,  55  ;  suggestion  respecting,  56  ; 

chief  source  of  revenue  to  the  Pare 

Penlo,  66  (see  Buxa,  Repu,Chamurchi, 

Lakhi). 
Ducks,  oxiii,  72,  121,  222,  817. 
Ddd  Kosi  river,  xxxvi. 
Dudukpai  in  Tibet,  a  happy  family  at, 

74,  181. 
Du  Halde,  editor  of  the  *  Lettres  Edifi- 

antes,'  Iviii  (n),  Ixii  (n) ;  maps,  cxxv. 
Duko-jong,  66. 

Dukpa,  Red  Cap  sect  in  Tibet  (which  see), 
Dumgong,  214^  294. 
Dune,  or  Duna-jong,  214. 
Duncan,  Jonathan,   treaty  with   Nepal, 

Ixxvi ;  notice  of,  cxxxi  (n). 
Dupgain  Sheptdn,  first  Lama  Rimboche' 

of  Bhutan,  Iv. 
Durjay,  Paumo,  Abbess  of  a  convent  near 

the  Palti  lake,  105,  106 ;  visit  of  Mr. 

Bogle  to,  108,  109 ;  frequent  visits  of 

Dr.  Hamilton  to,  109. 
Duties  on  merchandise  passing  through 

Nepal,  Ixxvi  (n),  xcix,  126,  127  ;  none 

levied    in    Tibet,    124;    abolished    at 

RangptCr  fair,  184. 

Eden,  HoNonRABLB  Ashlet,  in  Sikkim, 
xci;  his  mission  to  Bhutan,  c;  inso- 
lence of  Bhutan  Durbar  to,  ci ;  report, 
ci  (n). 

Edgar,  J.  Ware,  Esq.,  C.S.I.,  Deputy- 
Commissioner  at  Darjiiing,  ciii;  visit 
to  the  Rajah  of  Sikkim,  civ ;  conversa- 
tion with  Tibetan  officials,  cv,  cvi, 
cxxi ;  views  on  Tibetan  trade,  cxx. 

Eleuths  (see  Dsungarians). 

Elliot,  Alexander,  friend  of  Warren  Hast- 
ings, cxxxi,  cxxxviii ;  visit  to  England, 
cxiii;  return  to  India,  cxlv;  death, 
lines  by  Warren  Hastings  on,  cxlvi. 

Elwes,  Captain,  exploration  of  Sikkim 
by,  ciii. 

Esfluia,  a  Bhutan  village,  harvest  at,  64. 

Everest,  Mount,  xxxvi. 


Fa-Hian,  xliv. 

Fitch,  Ralph,  his  notice  of  trade  between 

India  and  Tibet,  liv. 
Flags  (see  Banners). 
Francis,  Philip,  factious  conduct  ot,  cxIii, 

cxliii ;    his  character,  cxlv ;    duel  of, 

with  the  Governor-General,  cxlix  (n). 
Freyre,  Manoel,  companion  of  Desideri, 

Iviii. 
Fuel,  stored,  in  Tibet,  71,  316. 
Funeral  rites  at  Tassisudon,  29 ;  in  Tibet, 

122,  339. 

Gairdnefi,  Mr.,  of  Kilmarnock,  arranged 
the  Bogle  manuscripts,  vii,  cliv. 

Gaissar,  67;  Gaissar  Lama  in  Bhutan, 
192. 

Ga-la  pass,  ex. 

Galdan  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  founded, 
xlvi,  xlvii,  1 ;  abbot  of,  xcviii ;  visited 
by  the  Pandit,  cxii. 

Gandak  river,  xxxv ;  Saft  Gandaki,  xxxv. 

Ckingri  mountain  (or  Kailas),  xxv. 

Gardner,  Honourable  E.,  resident  at  Kath- 
mandu,  Ixxxiv. 

Gassa-tu  (see  Gaissar). 

Gawler,  Colonel,  operations  in  Sikkim, 
xcL 

Gaya,  45,  134,  142. 

Gedun  monks,  1. 

Tubpa,  Tibetan  reformer,  founder  of 

Teshu  Lumbo,  xlvii;  incarnate  Budd- 
hisatwa,  xlvii. 

Geese,  72,  121,  317. 

Gelupka  sect,  24  (n),  179  (see  Yellow 
Caps). 

Gesnb  Rimboch^  Regent  at  Lhasa,  xlviii, 
Ixv,  cxiii,  102,  195 ;  his  opposition  to 
English  missions,  Ixix,  131 ;  Si-fan's 
long  tenure  and  deposition,  xcv,  xovi ; 
rise  to  power,  130, 131 ;  written  to  by 
the  Teshu  Lama,  as  to  trade  with 
Bengal,  133,  148,  152 ;  letter  to,  from 
Mr.  Bogle,  153;  offended  at  aggres- 
sions of  Gorkhas,  159 ;  jealousy  of 
foreigners,  131,  165,  169  ;  intrigue 
with  the  Chauduri,  172-176  (see 
Nomen-Khan). 

Getshul,  a  Buddhist  neophyte,  1. 

Ghagra  rivw,  xxxv. 

Ghattong,  78. 

Ghoraghat,  54. 

Giansu  (Giangze),  xxviil,  cxi,  74,  76, 165, 
181 ;  castle  of,  76-78 ;  Deb  Judhur 
confined  at,  78 ;  landlord  at,  181 ;  Mr. 
Manning's  residence  at,  226-242;  de- 
scription of,  227,  814. 

Gillespie,  Greneral,  killed  in  Nepal  war, 
Ixxxi.    > 

Ginseng,  8. 

Giorgi,    author  of  'Alphabetum   Tibet- 


846 


INDESX. 


anum,'  xliii  (n) ;  notice  of,  Iz  (n) ;  his 
account  of  Lake  Palti,  244  (n). 

Gogra  river  (see  Ghagra). 

Gold,  remarks  of  Tibetan  merchants  on 
trade  in,  164. 

-^—  mines,  316  (see  Thok-jalung). 

Gonpas,  Tib«tan  monasteries,  1  (see  Monas- 
teries). 

Gordon,  Mr.,  agent  of  the  creditors  of 
China,  207. 

Gorkhas,  liii  (n) ;  conquest  of  Nepal,  Ixvi ; 
invade  Tibet,  Ixxri,  xcrii ;  defeated  by 
Chinese,  Ixxrii;  as  soldiers,  Ixxxyi; 
Gorkha  Rajah,  58 ;  invasion  of  Sikkim, 
101;  subdued  Nepal,  126;  duties  levied 
by,  127 ;  coinage,  129 ;  Teshu  Lama 
writes  to,  for  encouragement  of  trade, 
133, 197 ;  seixes  Bijapiir,  141 ;  aggres- 
sions of,  144,  149,  157 ;  letter  to  the 
Teshu  Lama,  158;  death  of,  159;  ob- 
structs trade,  161 ;  contemplated  pro- 
posals to,  for  encouraging  trade,  162; 
called  upon  by  the  Teshu  Lama  to  re- 
store Bijapiir  to  Bhutan,  165 ;  vakil  of, 
107,  190  (see  Nepal,  Prithi  Narayan, 
Ran  Bahadar,  Bahadar  Sah). 

Gosain's  trading  pilgrims  of  India,  124, 
125,  204 ;  driven  out  of  Nepal,  127, 
163  (see  Purungir  Gosain). 

Griffith,  Dr.,  accompanies  Pemberton  on 
his  mission  to  Bhutan,  Izxxiii. 

Grneber,  Father,  visits  Lhasa,  his  narra- 
tive, vii,  295-302 ;  account  of,  Ivi. 

Guatiula  pass,  civ. 

Gug^,  occupied  by  Zorawar  Sine,  xcv. 

Guggun  Sing,  Minister  in  Nepal,  Ixxxvii. 

Guiseppe,  Father,  narrative  of  the  Gorkha 
conquest,  Ixvi. 

Guison  Tamba,  Hue's  name  for  the  Tara- 
nath  Lama  (whom  see}. 

Gulab  Sing,  conquest  of  Ladak,  zcv. 

Gnrung  tribe,  lii. 

Gutzlalr,  Dr.,  notice  of,  zciv. 

Gyalba  Rimboch^  a  title  of  the  Dalai 
Lama,  xlvii. 

Gyalpo,  title  of  kings  of  Tibet,  xlvii  (see 
Gesnb  RimbochQ. 

Gylongs,  or  monks,  1;  in  Bhutan,  27; 
Mr.  Bogle's  conversation  with  a,  in 
Tibet,  80,  85;  crowds  of,  visit  Mr. 
Bogle,  98 ;  crowds  in  church,  103 ; 
masquerading  at  the  new  year,  106; 
chastisement  of  a  young  gylong,  110 ; 
position  and  numbers,  121 ;  to  go  to 
Calcutta  and  visit  religious  place,  169. 

Haludat,  Sir  Fbederige,  proposal  re- 
specting Bhutan  aggressions,  c. 

Hamilton,  Dr.  Alexander,  correspondence 
with  Mr.  Bogle,  v ;  mission  to  Bhutan, 
Ixix ;  to  accompany  Mr.  Bogle's  mission, 


6,  7,  14 ;  alarm  of  Buddhiste  at  his 
offer  U  kill  a  fly,  26 ;  applied  to  for 
medicine,  74,  76 ;  gives  snuff  to  a 
gylong,  80 ;  interview  with  the  Lams, 
83  ;  cures  a  Kashmiri,  87 ;  lodging  at 
Tediu  Lumbo,  96,  97  ;  rooms  visited  by 
the  Teshu  Lama,  101 ;  cures  the  Lama's 
relatives,  106,  244  (n);  asked  by 
Kalmuks  to  tell  their  fortunes,  107; 
last  visit  to  the  Lama,  168;  leaves 
Teshu  Lumbo,  177. 

Hamilton,  Dr.  Buchanan,  his  work  on 
Nepal,  Ixxiz  (n);  map  of  Nepal  by, 
cxxvii. 

Hares,  72,  73,  121. 

Harland,  Sir  Robert,  a  creditor  of  China, 
207. 

Harvests  in  Bhutan,  64  (see  Agriculture). 

Hastings,  Marquis,  declares  war  upon 
Nepal,  Ixxxi. 

Hastings,   Warren,  iii  ;  his  missioDB  to 
Tibet,  v;   his  policy  with   regard  to 
Tibet,  xxi,   Izviii,   Ixxv,  czxi ;   corre- 
spondence with  Bogle,  v,  cxlviii;  in- 
quiries of,  respecting  the  source  of  the 
Tsanpu,  zxx,  9 ;  his  encouragement  of 
surveys,  xl  (n);    school   of  adminia- 
trators    created    by,    cxxxi;    Bogle's 
character  of,  cxxxvii ;  full  approval  of 
Bogle's  proceedings  in  Tibet,  cxli ;  his 
position  during  the  supremacy  of  the 
Francis  clique,  cxliii ;  magnanimity  ot^ 
czliv;   duel  with   Francis,  cxliz  (a); 
letter    to    Dr.    Johnson    on    Bogle's 
journal,  cli ;  letter  of  the  Teshu  Iaida 
to,  1 ;  resolres  to  drive  back  the  Bkv- 
tanese  1  (n);  his  minute  proposing  an 
embassy  to  Tibet,  3 ;  his  appointment 
of  Mr.  Bogle,  6 ;  commissions  to  Mr. 
Bogle,  8 ;  his  memorandum  on  Tibet« 
9 ;  instructions  to  Mr.  Bogle  to  plant 
potatoes  in  Bhutan,  19  (n) ;  letter  to 
the  Deb  Rajah  for  the  encouragement 
of  trade,  53 ;  complies  with  the  Lama's 
request  for  a  temple  near  Calcutta, 
146   Tn);    desire   to  procure   strange 
animals,  166 ;  instructions  to  Mr.  Bogle 
to  negotiate  for  free  trade  in  Bhutan, 
186. 

Hatia  pass,  xxxvi. 

Haughton,  Colonel,  acknowledgment  of 
assistance  from,  vii;  Commissioner  of 
Eiich  Bahar,  ciii. 

Heeley,  Mr.  Wilfred,  his  article  on  Tibet^ 
xl  (n),  cvii  (n). 

Him&layan  region,  general  descriptioB, 
zxiii,  zzzix;  Northern  Chain,  xxi^r; 
Central  Chain,  zxv,  zzxi;  SontJiem 
Chain,  zxxiv;  comparison  witli  the 
Andes,  xli ;  zones  of  elevation,  zzxi'r. 

Hitounda,  300  (n). 


INDEX. 


347 


Hodgson,  Mr.  Brian,  acknowledgment  of 
assistance  from,  Tii ;  his  description  of 
the  Himalaya,  xxxiv;  on  the  hydro- 
graphy of  Nepal,  zzxix ;  on  the  cis- 
nivean  Himilayan  races,  lii ;  his  opinion 
of  Gorkha  soldiers,  liii;  services  to 
Buddhistic  literature,  Ixxxt;  manrel- 
lous  industry,  IxxxTi ;  political  ser- 
yioes,  Ixxxvii ;  his  physical  map  of 
Nepal,  cxxTii. 

Holdich,  Captain,  R.E.,  surreys  of  part  of 
the  Bhutan  frontier,  cxzix. 

Hooker,  Dr.  J.  D.,  acknowledgment  of 
assistance  from,  vii ;  his  view  from  the 
Donkia  pasii,  xxxiii ;  his  travels  in 
Nepal  and  Sikkim,  Ixxxvi,  zcii;  his 
journals,  zciii;  his  map  of  Sikkim, 
cizvii. 

Bor  tribes  in  the  north  of  Tibet,  xxiv, 
309,  313. 

Horses  in  Tibet,  121 ;  trade  in,  183  (see 
Tanguns). 

Horsok,  xxiv. 

Hot  springs,  cxvi,  18 1,  182,  224. 

Hrondzain  Cambo,  king  of  Tibet,  166. 

Hue,  Abbd,  his  description  of  Tibetans, 
xlii;  account  of  the  Guison  Tamba, 
xlviii ;  his  account  of  Urga,  xlix ;  visit 
to  Lhasa,  xciv,  xcvi;  expelled  from 
Lhasa,  xcvii ;  his  works,  xcvii  (n). 

Hiuen  Thsang,  xliv. 

lANDBO  lake,  310  (n)  (see  Palti). 
Impey,  Sir  Elijah,  correspondence  with 

G.  Bogle,  V,  cxlviii. 
Incarnations  (see   Buddhisatwas,  Lamas, 

Tsong-khapa,     Padma      Pani,    Gedun 

Tnbpa,    Amitabha,    Avalokiteswara)  ; 

female  incarnation,  1. 
Interment,  custom  in  tibet,  67, 122,339, 

340. 

JAiauan,  19. 

Jalpaish,  Ixxii,  c. 

Jang  Bahadar,   of  Nepal,  Ixzxviii,  xciz, 

czxii. 
Janglach^  xxvii,  cxi,  117, 155. 
Jammn,  Gulab  Sing  of,  conquest  of  Lsdak, 

ZCT. 

Jansen,  Commodore,  of  the  Hague,  ac- 
knowledgment of  assistance  from,  vii. 

Jaschk^,  Mr.,  Moravian  missionary,  cvii ; 
hia  works  on  the  Tibetan  language, 
cviii  (n). 

Jeffrey,  Lord,  sister  married  to  Dr.  Brown 
of  Lanfine,  cli. 

Jelep-la  pass,  iv,  xxxvii ;  visit  of  Mr. 
Edgar  to,  civ,  cvi,  cxxi. 

Jesuits'  travels  in  Tibet,  Ivi,  Ivii,  Iviii, 
295-308 ;  their  survey  of  China,  Ixi. 

Jetsam  tampa  (see  Guison-tnmba). 


Johnson,   Dr.  Samuel,   letter    to,    from 

Wan*en  Hastings,  on  Bogle's  journal, 

cli. 
— ,  Mr.  E.  J.  S.,  survey  of  Sikkim, 

cxxviii. 
Jones,  Captain  John,  in  command  in  the 

Bhutan  war,  1  (n%  31. 
Jonka-jong,    important    Chinese     post, 

Ixxix,  ex. 
Jumla,  XXXV. 

Kahlo^s,  ministers  at  Lhasa,  xcv,  320, 
323. 

Kailas  peak,  xxiv. 

Ka-la  pass,  cxi. 

Kala  Panday,  minister  in  Nepal,  Ixxxvii. 

Kali  river,  xxv,  xxxv,  lii,  Ixxxi. 

Kalling,  secretary  to  the  Deb  Rajah,  62. 

Kalmuks,  their  offerings  to  the  Teshu 
Lama,  97,  137  ;  play  at  chess  with  Mr. 
Bogle,  104 ;  visit  Dr.  Hamilton,  107 ; 
tr»de  carried  on  by,  125 ;  veneration 
for  the  Teshu  Lama,  132;  conquered 
by  the  Chinese,  138 ;  manner  of  fight- 
ing on  horseback,  155 ;  business  with 
the  Teshu  Lama,  160,  314  (n).    ~ 

Kam,  or  Eastern  Tibet,  xxvi  (n),  309,  312. 

Kambachen  pass,  xcii. 

Kamba-jong,  xciii. 

Kambala  mountain,  310  (see  Ehamba-la). 

Kambu,  135. 

Kampas  arrive  at  Desheripgay,  83 ;  chiers 
suicide,  159. 

Kangchan  peak,  xxxvi. 

Kanglachan  pass,  xxxvi. 

Kanmur  in  Tibet,  74. 

Kantel  peak,  304. 

Kantalbari,  213,  294. 

Karakorum  Range,  xxiii. 

Kamali  river,  xxv,  xxxv. 

Kashmir,  visited  by  Desideri,  303. 

Kashmiri  merchants,  liv,  Iv,  ex,  8,  48, 
61,  86,  94,  117,  119,  204;  establish- 
ment in  Tibet,  124 ;  carry  on  trade  be- 
tween Tibet  and  China,  125,  126; 
settled  at  Lhasa,  127 ;  their  praise  of 
the  Teshu  Lama,  132  ;  willing  to  trade 
with  Bengal,  133.;  visit  to  Mr.  Bogle, 
160;  their  trade  obstructed  by  the 
Gorkha  Rajah,  161 ;  take  leave  of  Mr. 
Bogle,  178,  181. 

Kathmandu,  xxxvi,  liv;  reached  by 
Grueber,  Ivii ;  approach  of  Chinese 
army  to,  1  xxvii;  British  residents  at, 
Ixxxiv  (see  Nepal),  126,  129  (nX  299. 

Kien  Lung,  Emperor  of  China,  long 
reign,  Ivi,  134,  207  (n%  209  (n). 

Kept^  20,  64. 

Kerantis  (see  Kirantis). 

Keshen,  Chinese  resident  at  Lhasa,  xcvi,  cv. 

Khalka  Lama  (see  Taranath). 


di8 


INDEX. 


Khalkaa,  zliz. 

Khaliunl>»>la  pass,  zzriii,  czTi. 

Khalongs  {see  Kahlons). 

Kham  {see  Kam). 

Kkamba-la  mountain,  czii,  250  (ii),  310. 

— ^  barchi,  cxii. 

Khas  tribe  of  Nepal,  liii. 

Khatong  district,  xxxvi. 

Khoro-U  pass,  cxii. 

Khotan,  journey  of  Mr.  Johnson  to,  xxir, 
xWv. 

Ki-chan  (see  Keshen). 

Ki-chu  river,  xxix,  cxii. 

Kiepert,  maps  of  Central  Asia,  cxxix. 

Killadars  of  Teshu-tzay,  92 ;  of  Shigatze, 
94,  98 ;  on  the  Bengal  fVontier  to  assist 
merchants,  163. 

Etnloch,  Captain,  march  towards  Nepal, 
Ixri. 

Kirati,  country  in  East  Nepal,  xxxvi,  lit, 
157,  158. 

Kircher,  author  of  'China  lUustrata,' 
notice  of,  Irii. 

Kirong,  Ixxrii ;  pass,  cix. 

Kishen  Kant  Bose,  mission  to  Bhutan, 
Ixxxii,  ciii. 

Kisu,  birth-place  of  Teshu  Lama,  Ixxiii. 

Elaproth,  M.,  opinion  as  to  the  course  of 
the  Brahmaputra,  xxx;  on  Van  de 
Pntte,  Ixiii  (n) ;  notice  of,  xciii ;  map 
of  Central  Asia,  cxxix. 

Knox,  Colonel,  mission  to  Nepal,  Izzviii. 

Kokonor  lake,  xlvi,  296  (n),  311 ;  mean- 
ing of  the  word,  314. 

Kongra^lama  pass,  xxxvii. 

Kontyaling  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  1,  xcri, 
cxiii. 

Koros,  Csoma  de,  on  Tibetan  literature,  li ; 
account  of,  Ixxxviii ;  works,  Ixxxix  (n). 

Kosi  river,  xxxv,  xxxvi,  Ixxxi,  xcii. 

Kuch  Bahar,  Iv ;  commissioners,  ciii ;  in- 
vasion of,  by  Bhutanese,  1  (n),  31,  38, 
192;  treaty  for  the  affairs  of,  4  (n); 
the  arrival  of  Mr.  Bogle  at,  14, 45, 56, 58. 

Knen-lun  mountains,  xxiv. 

Kumaon,  xcv. 

Knshu,  Debu,  33  (see  Deb  Rajah). 

KuBunda,  tribe  of  Nepal,  lii. 

Kuti  pass,  xxxvi,  liv,  Ivii,  Ixxvi,  cix,  cxv, 
155  (n),  158,  159,  298,  310. 

Eutuktus,  1,  11. 

Eyang,  a  wild  ass,  72. 

Kyli  (see  Kisu). 

Lachen  river,  zzxvii,  xciii. 

Lachung  river,  zxxrii,  xciii. 

Ladak,  conquest  by  Gulab  Sing,  liv,  xcv ; 
rajahs  o^  related  to  the  Teshu  Lama, 
84,  110,  119;  flight  of  TibeUn  nobles 
to,  194;  subject  to  Tibet,  310. 

Lagulnng-la  pass,  xxxii,  cxv. 


Lahaul,  Moravian  mission  in,  cvii. 

Lakes  (see  Chomtodong,  Bulcho,  Dslgn- 
chu,  Calo-chu,  Shamtso  Felling,  T»- 
grinor,  Kokonor,  Mansarowar,  Palti). 

Ukki  Diiar,  Ixxx,  65,  66,  183, 201. 

LaliU  Patan  (see  Paten). 

Lamadong,  cxv. 

Lama,  survey  of  Tibet,  xxiv. 

Lamas,  1;  arts  of,  lii;  in  Tibet,  11, 194, 
196,  305 ;  in  Bhutan,  33,  192 ;  mean- 
ing of  the  word,  319. 

Lama  Rimboche,  or  Dharma  Rajah,  in 
Bhuten,  Iv,  Ixxxiii;  his  recepti<m  of 
Mr.  Bogle,  26,  27 ;  regains  his  influence, 
38,  41,  192. 

Lama  Shabdong  in  Bhuten,  39,  192  (see 
Dalai,  Teshu,  Taranath,  Changay). 

Lambert,  Mr.,  at  Dinajpiir,  48. 

Lance,  Captain,  accompanies  Eden's  missiom 
to  Bhuten,  c 

Latter,  Major,  in  the  Nepal  war,  lus 
treaty  with  Sikkim,  Ixxxi. 

Lha,  Tibeten  gods,  320  (n),  329,  330. 

Lhasa,  v,  vi,  xxii,  xxvii,  Ixxx,  6,  7, 8,  9, 
10,  12,  49,  58,  74,  83,  97,  102,  124, 
155,  169,  173,  176,  181,  200;  situa- 
tion,  xxix ;  foundation  of,  xlv ;  moDa»- 
teries  in  the  neighbourhood,  1,  cxiii; 
visit  of  Friar  Odoric  to,  xlvi ;  visit  of 
Grueber,  Ivi ;  of  Desideri,  Iviii ;  of  the 
Capuchins,  lix ;  of  Van  de  Putte,  Izii ; 
of  Hue  and  G^bet,  xciv ;  of  Mr.  Man- 
ning, Ixxx,  255 ;  the  Pundit's  account  ol^ 
cxii,  cxvii ;  merchants  at,  cxii ;  popula- 
tion, cxiv;  trade,  48,  127,  143;   de- 
puties from,  having  an  interview  with 
Mr.  Bogle,  147,  152;  tomult  at,  195; 
Chinese  at,   195;   Mr.  Manning's   re- 
sidence at,  258-293 ;  Grueber  at,  398 ; 
Desideri  at,  307  ;  meaning  of  the  woid, 
309,  311. 

Lhopa,  natives  of  Bhutan,  lii. 

Likhu  river,  xxxvi. 

Limbu  tribe,  lii. 

Lindsay,  Sir  John,  a  creditor  of  CSkiaa,  207. 

Lingtei  plain,  xxiv. 

Literature,  Tibeten,  li,  328. 

Litong,  near  Lhasa,  253. 

Lob-nor,  inland  system  of,  xxiii. 

Lobsang  Champa!  Dalai  Lama,  xcv  ;  deatk 
of,  xcv,  xcviii  (»),  130  (n\ 

Lobsang    Kalsang,    Dalai    Lana,     zlviii, 
xcviii  (nX  130  <n). 

Lohit  river  (see  Suhanshiri). 

Loprarcachu  river,  xxv,  xxxv,  zzrrii. 

Lova  Ghat,  where  the  Gandah  river  ajatses 
converges,  xxxv. 

Lowther,  Lady,  possessor  of  part  ot  the 
Teshu  Lama's  necklace,  czzziz. 

Lukhi  Ddar  (see  Lakki),  65,  66,  laS,  ^il. 

Lumbolong,  22,  63. 


INBK2L 


849 


Macao,  Bengal  expedition  to,  238. 

MacGregor,  Colonel,  Militaiy  Report  on 
Bhutan,  ci  (n). 

Machu  rirer,  zzzriii. 

Maddock,  Sir  H^  Resident  of  Katbmandu, 
Ixzxiy. 

Magar  tribe,  lii. 

Mabendra-malli,  money  in  Tibet  and 
Nepid,  129,  174,  181. 

Major,  R.  H.,  Esq.,  acknowledgment  of 
aasistance  from,  Tii. 

Hal  dynasty  of  Nepal,  liii. 

Manchu  dynasty  in  China,  ly. 

Manning,  Rev.  C.  R.,  Rector  of  Diss,  his 
kindness  in  lending  his  uncle's  journal, 
vi,  clxi. 

Manning,  Thomas,  journey  to  Lhasa,  t, 
Ixxx,  civiii ;  bis  journal,  vi,  xxii ; 
birth  and  education,  civ ;  letters  to, 
from  Charles  Lamb,  clvi,  clix;  goes 
to  China,  clrii;  joins  Lord  Amherst's 
mission,  clix ;  eccentric  life  and  death, 
clxi ;  set  out  on  his  journey  to  Tibet, 
213;  practising  as  a  doctor  at  Pari- 
jong,  218;  allowed  to  trarel  with  the 
Chinese  General,  219;  describes  a 
night  scene  in  a  Tibetan  post-house, 
220 ;  run  .away  with,  221 ;  dines  with 
the  Chinese  General,  his  beard,  200 ; 
success  as  a  doctor,  231 ;  remarks  on 
dress,  229  (n),  233,  240;  engages  a 
new  servant,  234 ;  dines  with  a  patient, 
235 ;  jokes  with  Chinese  soldiers,  241 ; 
leaves  Giansu,  242 ;  crosses  the  Tsanpu, 
251 ;  describes  Potala,  255 ;  reaches 
Lhasa,  256 ;  his  uncomfortable  lodgings, 
259;  difficulties  in  talking  Chinese, 
260;  audiences  of  the  DaJai  Lama, 
265,  288;  visits  to  patients,  267,  268, 
285,  287 ;  visited  by  spies,  275 ;  fear  of 
death,  278 ;  altercation  with  a  patient, 
280 ;  unable  to  take  observations,  283 ; 
troubles  with  his  servant,  214,  215, 
238,  239,  248,  249,  284;  visited  by 
pretty  girls,  286;  visits  the  temples, 
289;  leaves  Lhasa,  294. 

Mansarowar  lake,  Ivi,  cix. 

Manshi  river,  55. 

Mantang,  xxxvi,  cxvii. 

Maps  of  jyAnville,  Izi,  cxxv  ;  of  Samuel 
Van  de  Putte,  Ixiv ;  Dr.  Hooker's,  of 
Sikkim,  xdii,  cxxviii;  early  maps  of 
Tibet,  cxxiv;  of  Nepal,  cxxvi;  of 
Sikkim,  cxxviii ;  of  Bhutan,  cxxviii. 

liariam-la,  xxv,  xxvii,  xcv,  cxiv. 

Markham,  William,  of  Becca  Hall,  Re- 
sident of  Benares,  cxxxi ;  secretary  to 
Warren  Hastings,  clii ;  copy  of  part  of 
Bogle's  Journal  in  his  library,  cliii; 
notice  of,  cliii  (n). 

Markham,  General  Frederick,  C3.,  cxxxi 


(n) ;  his  description  of  the  musk  deer, 
115  (n). 

Marley,  General,  in  the  Nepal  war,  Ixxxi. 

Marsyanghi  river,  xxxv. 

Mastiff  of  Tibet  68  (n). 

Mataber  Sing,  of  Nepal,  Ixxxvii. 

Matkah,  214. 

Matichu  river,  xxxix. 

Mendicants  in  Tibet,  87,  88. 

Merchants  (swTrade,  Kashmiris,  Tibetans). 

Me  wan  Cusho,  194. 

Milamchi  river,  xxxvi. 

Mills  in  Tibet,  73. 

Minagaon  river,  xxxv,  xxxviii. 

Minerals  in  Tibet,  317. 

Minto,  Lord,  clvii  {see  Elliot,  Sir  G.). 

Mirza,  Settar,  a  native  of  Kashmir,  ac- 
companies Mr.  Bogle,  bis  extraordinary 
conduct,  86 ;  returns  with  Mr.  Bogle, 
177. 

Mirzapilr,  trade  route  from,  128. 

Missionaries,  Jesuit,  Ivi;  Capuchin,  lix, 
315 ;  Moravians,  cvii. 

Moing  river,  xxxvii. 

Monass  river,  xxv,  xxxv,  xxxix,  lii. 

Monasteries  round  Lhasa,  1,  cxiii  (n),  (see 
Teshu  Lumbo,  Potala,  Sakya-jong). 

Monastic  order,  consecration  of  children 
to,  85,  335. 

Monk,  1  (aee  Gylong). 

Montgomerie,  Lieut.-Colonel,  F.R.S.,  vii ; 
explorers  employed  by,  xxiv,  xxxi,  Ixii, 
xcvi,  cvii,  cxiv,  cxvii,  cxxviii. 

Moravian  mission  in  Lahaul,  cvii. 

Morehead,  Mr.,  correspondence  with  G. 
Bogle,  vii. 

Morton,  Major,  Deputy  Commissioner  in 
British  Sikkim,  clii. 

Muhammad  Taki,  48. 

Muktinath  pass,  xxxvi,  cix,  cxvii,  128  (n). 

Mukwanpiir,  map  of  Sir  D.  Ochterlony's 
advance  towards,  cxxvi. 

Munga  silk,  55,  126. 

Munjit  (madder),  6,  126,  183. 

Manshi,  Mr.  Manning's  Chinese  servant, 
his  illness,  214;  dishonesty,  215; 
Chinese  General's  opinion  of,  230 ;  ill 
humour,  238,  239  ;  want  of  apprecia- 
tion of  scenery,  245  ;  grumbling,  249, 
284 ;  put  in  irons  at  Lhasa,  293. 

Murijong,  19. 

Murmi  tribe,  lii. 

Murshidabad,  14. 

Msrung,  xxxvi,  Ixxvi,  65,  65  (n) ;  trade 
route  through,  128;  conquered  by 
Gorkhas,  149,  158,  161,  191. 

Muru  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  1,  cxiii. 

Musk,  trade  in,  cxiz,  6,  115  (n),  183. 

Musk  deer,  52,  73, 119, 114, 115  (n),  166. 

Mustang  country,  128. 

Mutton,  86,  104,  112. 


850 


INDBX. 


Nagracut,  note  on,  15  (n). 

Nakchn  river,  312. 

Namling,  czyi,  80  (n)  ($ee  Cbiimmimruig). 

Nanda-deri  peak,  xzzt. 

Nari,  province  of  Tibet,  309, 310  (8ee  An), 

Narichu  river,  xxvii  (n). 

Nayakot,  xxv,  xxxv,  Ixxxvi. 

Narayani  river,  xxv,  xxxv. 

Navang  Lobsang,  first  Dalai  Lama,  xlvii. 

Necklace  of  the  Teshu  Lama,  presented  to 
Mr.  Bogle,  cxxxix. 

Nepal,  rivers,  xxxv ;  valley  o^  zxxvi ; 
trade  under  the  Newars,  liv ;  war  with 
Tibet,  xcvii ;  hydrography,  zxxix;  tribes 
of,  lii ;  British  residents  in,  Ixxxiv ;  in- 
vasion of^  Ixxvi,  Ixxvii ;  treaties,  Ixxviii, 
Ixzix ;  war  with,  Ixxxi ;  peace  with 
China,  Izzvii,  Ixxxi ;  present  state,  xcix, 
cxxi ;  explored  by  Pundits,  cix,  cxv, 
czvii ;  maps  of,  cxxvi,  cxxvii ;  subject 
to  Tibet,  310  {aee  Gorkha> 

Newar  tribe  of  Nepal,  lii,  Iv,  159. 

Nilam  pass,  xxxvi,  cxv  {see  Knti). 

Ninjinthangla  peak,  cxvii  (as;  Nyenchhen- 
tang-la). 

Noanumgay,  first  Lama  in  Bhutan,  191. 

No-la  pass,  zxzii,  xxxvi,  ex. 

Nomen  Khan,  title  of  Regent  of  Tibet, 
xlviii  (tee  Gesub  Rimboch^). 

Northern  Chain  of  the  Him&laya,  xxiv. 

Nuns  (annl),  1,  85,  91,  98, 105,  111,  118. 

Nnnigay,  Dewan  of  Sikkim,  expelled,  zci, 
cv. 

Nyanginapa,  sect  (Red  Caps),  24,  32  (n). 

Nyenchhen-tang-la  mountains,  zziv,  zzv, 
czvii. 

OCHTERLONY,  Sir  David,  campaign  against 
Nepal,  Izzxi ;  map  of  his  routes,  cxxvi. 

Odoric,  friar  of  rordenone,  the  first 
European  to  visit  Lhasa,  xlvi,  Iv. 

Pachu  river,  junction  with  the  CJhinchu, 

63 ;  course,  65,  66,  67. 
Pachu-Chinchu  river,  xxxviii,  19,  20. 
Padma  Pani,  a  Buddhisatwa  incarnate  in 

Qedun-tubpa,  zlvii. 
Paima,  a  Tibetan,  sent  to  Calcutta  by  the 

Teshu  Lama,  1  (n),  51 ;   accompanies 

Mr.  Bogle  to  Tibet,  62 ;  holds  levies  at 

Pari-jong,  69;  conducts  a  service   in 

honour  of  the  Chumalhari  peak,  70; 

objecting  to  shooting,  72 ;  dress,  1 20 ; 

returns  with  Mr.  Bogle,  178. 
Painam  (Pena-jong),  zxviii,  Izziii,  czi,  78, 

165,  178,  180. 
Paku,  63. 

Palpa  in  Nepal,  Ixzzi,  102,  108,  172. 
Palti  lake,  xxxi,  1,  czii,  106  (n),  244  (n), 

247  (see  landro). 
Panchen   Rimboch^,   title  of  the  Teshu 

Lama,  xlvii,  czi. 


( 


Paper,  Tibetan,  li  (n). 

Parbatiyas  of  Nepal,  liii. 

Pari-jong,  zzzvii,  Izziz ;  conversation  of 
Mr.  Edgar  with  Governors  of,  cv,  67, 68, 
69,  141,  201 ;  threatened  by  Gorkhas, 

-  149 ;  trade  of,  183, 189 ;  Mr.  Manning 
at,  216,  314. 

Paro,  Mr.  Eden  at,  ci ;  route  to,  62 ;  Mr. 
Bogle  at,  65,  182;  trade  route  by, 
201 ;  Mr.  Manning  at,  Ixzz,  215. 

Paro-gaund  (see  Paro). 

Paro  Penlo,  Iv,  Izzziii,  c,  di  (n),  52; 
jurisdiction,  65. 

Partridges,  72,  114,  116,  121. 

Patau,  in  the  Nepal  valley,  liv ;  death  of 
Horace  della  Penna  at,  Iz  ;  conquest  by 
Gorkhas,  Izvi,  126;  currency  of,  129; 
lUlians  at,  167,  299  (n). 

Patna,  liv,  45,  59. 

Passes  (see  Changchenmo,  Chomorang- 
la,  Cho-la,  Damniargan-la,  Dango-la, 
Donkia,  Ga-la,  Guatin-la,  Uatia,  Jelep- 
la,  Ka-la,  Kambachen,  Kanglachen, 
Kirong,  Eongra-lama,  Khalamba-la, 
Euti,  Lagnlung-la,  Mariam-la,  Mukti- 
nath,  Nilam,  No-la,  Photu-la,  Taku-la, 
Tinki-la,  Tipta-la,  TakUkhar,  Tankra- 
la,  Walangchiin,  Yak-la,  Tangmachen); 
in  Bhutan,  zzziz. 

Peaks,  K  2,  zziii  (n)  (tee  Cliumalhari, 
Dawalagiri,  Nanda-deri,  Dayabung, 
Mount  Everest,  Kangchan,  Ninjin- 
thangla). 

Pechi,  Regent  of  Tibet,  zcvi;  death  of, 
zcvii. 

Pegu,  135;  King  of,  170, 171. 

Peking,  125,  159,  165,  168;  great  Lama 
of,  165,  166,  167,  194,  207;  Luna 
promises  to  ask  leave  for  English  to  go 
to,  168,  198;  proposed  visit  of  Mr. 
Bogle  to,  209. 

Pelong  handkerchie&,  16  (n\  51,  83,  85. 

Pemberton,  Captain,  zzziz;  mission  to 
Bhutan,  Izzziii;  his  map  of  Bhutan, 
czzviii. 

Penna,  Horace  della,  vii ;  notice  of,  liz ; 
death  of,  Iz ;  narrative  by,  309  et  seg. 

Peting,  czvi, 

Pertab  Sing  of  Nepal,  159,  162,  165. 

Phillimore,  Charles  B.,  Esq.,  acknow- 
ledgment of  assistance  from,  viL 

Photu-la  pass,  zzzii. 

Phuncholing,  bridge  over  the  Tsanpa  at, 
czi. 

Pichakonum  mountain,  17. 

Polyandry,  4  (n),  17,  32  ;  in  Tibet,  79, 
336. 

Pon  religion,  zliii. 

Ponies,  4  (n),  17,  32;  in  Tibet,  79. 

Postmen  in  Tibet,  242. 

Potala  palace,  near  Lhasa,  zlviii,  ],  cziii ; 


INDEX. 


851 


sketch  of,  Wii,  82,  255,  256 ;  visit  of 
Hr.  Manning  to,  264,  322  (n). 

Potatoes  at  Lhasa,  cziv  (n) ;  planted  by 
Mr.  Bogle  19  (n). 

Prayer  wheels,  li,  32  (n),  253  (n),  297. 

Prithi  Narayan,  Gorkha  conqueror  of 
Nepal,  his  vakHs,  107,  190;  conquests, 
126,  141 ;  death,  197, 205  (sm  Gorkha, 
Nepal). 

Priyadarsi  inscriptions,  zliii. 

Puini,  Carlo,  discovery  of  Desideri  manu- 
scripts by,  lix. 

Punakfaa,  winter  capital  of  Bhutan, 
zxxviii,  Ixxii,  Ixxxiii,  c,  51,  182. 

Pundits,  explorer  of  1866,  xcvi,  cviii; 
his  account  of  Lhasa,  cxii ;  visit  to  gold 
mines,  cxiv ;  exploration  of  No.  9,  cxv ; 
of  Pundit  D  round  Tengri-nor,  cxvi; 
in  Nepal,  cxvii ;  through  Tawang, 
cxviii ;  their  maps,  cxxx. 

Purling,  Mr.,  1  (n),  2  (n). 

Purungir,  Gosain,  embassy  to  Tibet,  Ixxii, 
Ixxv,  1  (n) ;  race  with  Mr.  Bogle,  79, 
90,  165;  with  Captain  Turner,  Ixxii. 

Patala  (see  Potala). 

Pyn  Cushos,  nephews  of  the  Teshn  Lama 
visit  Mr.  Bogle,  92;  take  leave,  94; 
arrive  at  Teshu  Lumbo,  105,  106; 
their  entertainment  at  Mr.  Bogle's, 
106, 108,  110,  113-118;  friendship  be- 
tween Mr.  Bogle  and,  118;  news  of 
their  death  116  (n). 

Quito,  analogy  of  Tibet  to  province  of,  12. 
Quoits,  game  of,  in  Bhutan,  28. 

Raka-tbanfu,  cx,  cxi. 

Balung,  cx. 

R&moch^  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  1,  cxiii. 

Rangchu  river,  xxxvii. 

Banjit  river  (see  Bnri  Ranjit). 

Rangpiir,  fair  at,  xxi,  Ixix,  Ixx,  cxlix,  50, 

51,  53,  141,  184,  202;  Mr.  Bogle  at, 

cxlvii,  14,  48,  56,  61. 
Rapti  river,  xxxv. 
Rating  Lama,   xcvi;   retires  to  Peking, 

xcvii. 
Ravens,  gambols  of,  248,  317. 
Red    Cap    sect  (Ihikpa   or    Shammar), 

monastery  of,  xxviii,  xlvi;    in  Nepal 

and  Bhutan,  lii,  Ixi;   Sikkim,  Ixxxii, 

24,  179. 
Regis,  Father,  surveyor  in  China,  Ixi. 
R«nnell,  Major,  opinion  as  to  the  course 

of  the  Bralimaputra,  xxx,  xl  (n) ;    his 

atlas  of  Bengal,  cxxv. 
Rennie  Dr.,   ^k   on  Bhutan,   cii  (n), 

cxxix. 
Jie^M  Dilar,  56. 
^ibdyen  Gyripo,  a  rebel  against  China, 

159. 
Rimbochd  (see  Lama,  Panchen,  Gesub). 


Rinjaitzay,    country    seat    of   the    Pyn 
Cushos,  113;  night  alarm  at,  116, 158. 
Rinjipu  (see  Paro),  65,  182,  183,  201. 
Rivers,  see 


Am-machu. 

Marsyanghi. 

Arun. 

Matichu. 

Bagmatti. 

Milanchi. 

Baidak. 

Minagoan. 

Bhei. 

Moing. 

Bhotia  Kosi. 

Monass. 

Bichu. 

Nakchu. 

Brahmaputra. 

Narichu. 

Buria  Gandak. 

Narayani. 

Buri  Ranjit. 

Pachu. 

Charta-tsanpn. 

Pachu-chinchu. 

Chinchu. 

Rangft. 

Dihong. 

Rapti. 

Dild  Kosi. 

Sankos. 

Ghagra. 

Sarda. 

Kali. 

Sarju. 

Kamali. 

Seti  Gandak. 

Kichu. 

Shiang-chu. 

Kosi. 

S^ubanshiri. 

Lachen. 

Tambur. 

Lachung. 

Tirsnli  Gandak. 

Likhu. 

TisU. 

Lohit. 

Tongchu. 

Lopra-cachu. 

Tsanpu. 

Machu. 

Tursa. 

Manshi. 

Wang-cbu. 

Ronson,  Mr.  W.,  acknowledgment  of  as- 
sistance from,  viii. 

Rudock,  xxiv. 

Run  Bahadar  of  Nepal,  Ixxviii ;  murdered, 
Ixxxi. 

Russians,  Consul  at  Urga,  xlix  (n),  cxxii 
(n);  threatened  war  with  China,  160, 
166,  168;  embassy  to  Peking,  167. 

Sadak  dance,  99  (n). 

Sakya,  xliii ;  name  of  Buddha,  25 ;  image 
of,  100  ;  birth  of,  334. 

Sakia- jong,  xxviii,  xlvi,  lii,  cxv. 

Salt  trade,  cxvi,  cxix,  78. 

Sankos  river,  xxxv. 

Sanson,  Nicolas,  maps  of,  cxxiv. 

Sara,  monastery  near  Lhasa,  1,  cxii.  ' 

Sarda  river  (see  Kali). 

Sarju  river,  xxxv. 

Saunders,  Mr.  Trelawney,  acknowledg- 
ment of  assistance  from,  vii ;  on  Hima- 
layan nomenclature,  xxv ;  maps,  xxxix, 
cxxx. 

Saunders,  Dr.,  in  Turner's  mission  to 
Tibet,  notice  of,  Ixxi. 

Sawe  on  the  Tsanpu,  cxiii. 

Schlagintweit,  £mil,  on  Tibetan  Budd- 
hism, li  (n). 

Scott,  Mr.  David,  judge  at  Rangpiir; 
sends  Kishen  Kant  Bose  on  a  mission  to 
Bhutan,  Ixxxii,  ciii. 


8S2 


INDEI^. 


Sects  (Mtf  Red  and  Yellow  Caps). 

Seline  (see  Siaing). 

Sera  {wee  San). 

Servants,  troables  with,  31,  71  (eee  Man- 

shi). 
Seti-Qandak  river,  zxxy. 
Shabdong  Lama  in  Tibet,  192. 
Shambal,  168. 

Shammar,  Red  Cap  sect  (ufhich  Me). 
Sham-chu  Felling  lake,  71,  73. 
Sheep,  as  beasts  of  burden,  cxvi,  66,  78  ; 

dried  carcasses  of,  86 ;  wool  of^  121  (n). 
Sherwill,   Captain,    surveys  in  Sikkim, 

czxviii. 
Shiang-chn  river,  zxviii,  cxvi,  80. 
Shigatx^  xxviii,  cxi,  cxv,  cxvi,  67, 73,  78  ; 

killadars  of,  94,  98  ;  castle.  95  ;  posi- 
tion, 96  (n),  165,  178,  311. 
Shiptoka  (see  Simptoka). 
Shishmaroff,  M.,  Russian  Consul  at  Urga, 

zlix,  cxxii. 
Shotang,  cxiii. 
Shun-che,  founder  of  Manchu    dynasty, 

Iv. 
Siberia,  8,  104 ;  trade,  105. 
Sienwar  tribe,  lii. 
Si-fan,  (see  Gesub  Rimboch^). 
Sikkim,    xxxv,  xxxvii,  Ixxvi,  Izxxi ;    Ra- 
jah's residence    at    Chumbi,   xxxvii; 

lepchas  of,  Iv,  Ixxxii ;  Rajahs,  Ixxxii ; 

Dr.  Campbell  on,  xc,  civ,  cvi ;  war  in, 

xci;   exploration,  ciii;   maps,  cxxviii, 

71  (n),  101  {see  Demo-jong  and  Bra- 

mashon). 
Simpson,   Dr.,    accompanies    Mr.  Eden's 

mission  to  Bhutan,  c 
Simptoka,  c;  occupied  by  adherents  of 

Deb  Judhur,  40,  61,  62  (or  Shiptoka). 
Sining,  liv,  Ivi,  Ixi,  124,125. 
Sing  Pertab  of  Nepal,  159,  162,  165,  197 

(see  Gorkha  Rajah). 
Sirtipifr,  siege  of,  by  the  Gorkhas,  Ixvi. 
Smallpox,  78,  89. 
Sok  tribe  in  North  Tibet,  xziv. 
Sokpo,  110  (n). 
Soldiers  of  Bhutan,  62;  their  arms,  63 

(see  Gorkhas) ;    at  bhigatze,  cxi ;    at 

Giansu,  cxii ;  at  Lhasa,  cxiv ;  Chinese, 

in  Tibet,  xcix,  241  (n). 
Sopon  Chumbo,  Teshu  Lama's  cupbearer, 

Ixxiii,  83,  84,  90,  98, 117, 137,  140  (n), 

172. 
Southern  Chain  of  the  Him&laya,  xxxiv. 
Stewart,  John,  Esq.,  F.R.S.,  paper  by,  on 

Mr.  Bogle's  mission,  clii. 
iStrahan,  Lieut,,  survey  of  Bhutan,  cxxix. 
Streams,  mineral,  72  (see  Hot). 
Subanshiri  river,  xxv,  xxxv. 
Suk-Debu,  165. 
Sumhur    Lama,    a    Tibetan    traitor    in 

Nepal,  Ixxvi. 


Sund  F6,  Chinese  general  who  invaded 

Nepal,  Ixxvi. 
Surveys  of  Tibet  by  lamas,  xxiv,  xxix, 

xxxi ;  account  of^  Ixi. 
Sweti-ganga  river,  xxxv. 
Szechaen  trade  with  Tibet,  cxviii. 

Tadum  monastery,  ex. 

Taklakhar  pass,  xxxiil,  xcv. 

Takpo  province,  812. 

Taku-la  pass,  xxxii,  xxxvi. 

Tamba-Kosi  river,  xxxvi. 

Tambur  river,  xxxvi,  xcii. 

Tankra-la  pass,  cv. 

Tangun  ponies,  tribute  of,  4  (n) ;  expe- 
rience of,  17,  32,  79. 

Tangut,  a  name  of  Tibet,  xxvi,  296,  309. 

Tankyaling  monastery,  near  Lhasa,  1, 
xcvi,  cxiii. 

Taranath  Lama,  history  of,  xlviii,  xlix, 
cxx,  98  (n),  110  (n). 

Tashirak,  cxv. 

Tas&isudon,  xxxviii,  Ixix,  Ixxii,  c,  14  (n\ 
19;  sts^  to,  22;  arrival  of  Mr. 
Bogle  at,  23;  palace,  26,  28;  palace 
burnt  and  rebuilt,  38;  attempt  on  by 
Deb  Judhur's  party,  61 ;  Mr.  Bogle 
leaves,  6 1 ;  mode  of  harvesting  near, 
64 ;  return  of  Mr.  B(^le,  negotiations 
at,  200,  201. 

Tawang  State,  xxxvii;  friendly  relations 
with,  cii ;  journey  of  a  Pundit  throogh, 
cxviii ;  trade,  cxix. 

Tazigong,  213. 

Tchanglas^  (see  Janglach^. 

Tea,  trade  in,  cxix ;  plantations,  Ixxxvi, 
xci ;  Mr.  Edgar's  report  on,  ciii  ;  uni- 
versally drunk  in  Tibet,  119,  317. 

Temples  in  Tibet,  1 ;  at  Lhasa,  cxii,  389; 
in  Bhutan,  32;  on  the  Ganges  (me 
Buddhism). 

Tengri  Maidan,  defeat  of  Nepalese  at, 
Ixxvii  (see  Dingri). 

Tengri-nor  lake,  xxiv,  cxvi,  cxvii. 

Tents  of  the  Lama,  9 1 ,  93 ;  of  Mr.  Bogle,  94. 

Terai,  xxxiv  (n)  (see  Murung). 

Terpaling  monastery,  Ixxiii. 

Teshu  Lama,  succession  of,  founded,  xlvii ; 
Turner's  interview  with,  Ixxiii ;  aid  ol^ 
in  deposing  a  usurper  at  Lhasa,  xcvi ; 
installation,  Ixxv ;  flight  ofj  Ixxvi ; 
Hue's  account  of,  xcvi ;  visits  of  tke 
Pundits  to,  cxi,  cxv;  presents  a  neek- 
lace  to  Mr.  Bogle,  cxxxix;  letter  to 
Warren  Hastings  interceding  for  Bhtt- 
tan,  1, 41 ;  embassy  to,  6  ;  letter  from, 
to  stop  Mr.  Bogle,  45,  48 ;  disposed  to 
encourage  trade,  50,  51,  54;  abeettt 
from  his  capital,  owing  to  smallpox, 
78 ;  reception  of  Mr.  Bogle  at  De- 
^heripgay,  135;   description   of,   132; 


INDEX. 


858 


character,  84,  182 ;  hU  parentage,  84; 
reception  of  the  people,  85,  93;  hie 
charity,  87  ;  leayes  Desheripgay,  90 ; 
cnwees  the  Tsaopo,  94;  arrival  at 
Teshn  Lombo,  95 ;  his  reception,  95, 
97;  ceremony  of  blessing  the  people, 
98;  Tisits  Mr.  Bogle's  room,  100;  re- 
ception of  the  I>Uai  Lama's  yakil, 
103;  his  religions  services,  105,  106: 
arrival  of  his  relations,  106 ;  political 
influence,  130;  friendliness,  132,  199; 
his  exertions  to  open  trade  between  Tibet 
and  Bengal,  133,  134,  198 ;  his  desire 
to  erect  a  Buddhist  temple  in  India, 
138,  146,  164,  165,  168,  169;  fiire- 
well  to  Mr.  Bogle,  118, 165,  171,  177  ; 
cordiality,  140;  discussions  with,  re- 
lating to  trade,  142 ;  conversations  on 
religion,  143,  167 ;  desire  to  mediate 
between  China  and  Russia,   166;   his 

{>romise  to  ask  for  permission  for  Eng- 
ish  to  go  to  Peking,  168,  198,  208; 
visits  Emperor  of  China,  207 ;  death, 
208  (ft) ;  letter  to  the  Gorkha  Rajah, 
197 ;  head  of  the  Yellow  Cap  sect,  179. 

Teshu  Lumbo,  xxvii ;  founded,  xlvii ;  de- 
scribed by  Turner,  Ixxiii;  sacked  by 
the  Gorkhas,  Ixxvi ;  Pandit  at,  cxi,  82 ; 
arrival  of  Mr.  Bogle  at,  95 ;  descrip- 
tion o^  96 ;  position,  96  (n) ;  Mr. 
Bogle's  rooms  in  the  palace,  97;  de- 
scription of  gallery  in  the  palace,  100, 
164;  view  of,  178. 

—  Tiay,  birth-place  of  the  Teshu  Lama, 
80;  arrival  at,  91,  92;  Killadar,  or 
Deboo^92,  106,  107,  118. 

Thevenot,  Melchisedek,  notice  of,  Ivii  (n). 

Thok  Jalung  gold  mine,  xxiv,  cxiv. 

Tibet,  policy  of  opening  communications 
with,  xxi ;  northern  boundaiy  of,  xxiv ; 
survey  of,  by  the  Lamas,  xxiv,  Ixi ; 
name,  xxvi,  6,  609;  divisions,  xxvi, 
309-313;  the  physical  aspect,  xxvii, 
316 ;  comparison  with  Peru,  xli ;  inha- 
bitants, xlii ;  ancient  religion,  xliii ; 
language,  xliii ;  Buddhism  in,  xlv ; 
Chinese  supremacy  established,  xlviii, 
Iri ;  government,  319  ;  literature,  li ; 
passes  to,  closed  by  the  Chinese,  Ixxix ; 
invasion  of,  by  Dogras,  xcv ;  embassies 
to,  Ixviii,  Ixix,  Ixxii ;  former  trade  with 
India  and  Nepal,  liv,  Ix;  war  with 
Nepal,  xcvii ;  recent  history  o^  xcvii, 
194;  Mr.  Edgar's  report,  cv ;  works  on 
the  language  of,  cvii  (n) ;  trade  with 
Kashmir,  ex;  trade,  cxviii,  50,  51, 
1 24—129, 184, 317 ;  a  memorandum  on, 
by  Warren  Hastings,  9 ;  face  of  the 
country,  119;  productions,  119;  Mr. 
Bogle's  farewell  to,  1 17  ;  climate,  193 ; 
at^riculture,  316;  minerals,  317;  mo- 


rality, 318 ;  administration  of  justice, 
323 ;  UwB  of,  328 ;  funeral  ritee,  339. 

Tibetans,  dress,  88,  120;  compared  with 
Bhutanese,  75 ;  position  of  women,  75, 
319;  curiosity,  77,  85;  dancing,  92; 
ceremonies, .  1 06 ;  veneration  for  the 
Teshu  Lama,  132;  merchants,  163; 
sects,  179 ;  character,  318. 

Tinkl-la  pass,  cxv. 

Tinki-iong,  cxv. 

Tipta-la  pass,  xxxvi,  cxv. 

Tirsnli-Oandak  river,  xxv,  xxxv, 

Tisri,  Minister  in  Tibet,  320. 

Tlsto  rivet,  xxxv,  xxxvii,  55,  313  (n). 

Tonchu  river,  xxxix. 

Tongso,  xxxix. 

Finlo,  capture  of  guns  by,  c. 

Torcepano,  goddess  of  the  Palti  Uke, 
244(a). 

Trade  of  Tibet,  cxviii,  50,  124,  125,  127, 
128,  133, 141,  161-163, 197,  203,  317  ; 
between  Nepal  and  Tibet,  under  the 
Kewars,  liv;  with  Bhutan,  Ixix;  be- 
tween Rangpiir  and  Bhutan,  51, 52, 55, 
58 ;  use  of  sheep,  66,  78 ;  salt  trade, 
cxvi,  cxix,  78 ;  injured  by  the  Gorkha 
Rajah,  127,  161,  162;  routes  for,  128; 
causes  of  decline,  between  Bengal  and 
Tibet,  141 ;  discussions  with  the  Teshu 
Lama  as  to,  142 ;  discussions  of  Mr.  Bogle 
with  Kashmiri  and  Tibetan  merchants, 
161, 163  ;  Chinese  jealousy  of,  164;  Mr. 
Bogle's  suggestions  to  secure  freedom 
of  transit  through  Bhutan,  184-190. 

Treaties  with  Nepal,  of  1792,  Ixxvi ;  of 
1802,  Ixxix;  of  1816,  after  the  war, 
Ixxxi ;  of  1855,  xcix ;  of  1860,  xcix ; 
terms  of  treaty  between  Nepal  and 
China,  Ixxvii ;  between  Nepal  and  Tibet, 
xcvii;  with  .Bhutan  in  1774,  4  (n); 
treaty  of  1866  with  Bhutan,  ci ;  cession 
of  Darjfling  by  Sikkim,  xc ;  treaty  with 
Sikkim  of  1861,  xd;  treaty  of  1860 
between  Russia  and  CSiina,  cxxii  (n). 

Tsang,  province  of,  xxvi,  xxxiii,  309. 

Tsanpu  river,  valley  of,  xxvii ;  Pundit's 
joui*ney  down  valley  of,  cix,  ex,  cxii, 
73;  first  view  of,  by  Mr.  Bogle,  78; 
ferry,  79 ;  crossed  by  the  Teshu  Lama, 
94 ;  by  Mr.  Bogle,  79,  94,  1 13 ;  crossed 
by  Mr.  Manning,  251 ;  by  Delia  Penna, 
311  (sM  Brahmaputra). 

Tsong-khapa,  the  great  Tibetan  reformer, 
xlvi,  lix,  cxii. 

Tumlung,  capital  of  Sikkim,  civ. 

Turner,  Captain  Samuel,  mission  to  Tibet, 
Ixxi ;  account  of,  Ixxi  (n) ;  his  work, 
Ixxiv ;  his  remark  on  the  Teshu  Lama's 
letter,  1  (n);  his  account  of  Buxa- 
Ddar  15  (n) ;  his  report  on  the  abun- 
dance of  birds  in  Tibet,  248. 

2  A 


854 


INDEX. 


Tana  river,  xxzr,  55. 
Tils,  8. 

Tushkhind*  78. 
Tfpa  Lama,  10. 

U,  proYince  of,  in  Tibet,  xzvi,  zzxiii,  309, 

311. 
UchoDg,  a  Bhatanese,  his  gratitude,  31. 
Udelgiri,  Assam,  trade  mart,  cziz. 
Urga  Karen,  residence  of  the  Taranath 

Lama,  xlix ;  Rassian  Consol  at,  cxxii. 

VAxiiA  (see  Chey  t  Sing,  Dalai  Lama,  &c.). 

Van  de  Putte,  Samuel,  Dutch  traveller 
in  Tibet,  account  of,  Ixii ;  his  premature 
death,  Ixiii ;  his  map,  Ixiv ;  authorities 
for  the  account  of,  Ixv,  312  (n). 

Veth,  Professor,  of  Leyden,  acknowledg- 
ment of  assistance  from,  vii. 

Wake,  Mr.  V.  C,  Deputy-Commissioner 

of  British  Sikkim,  ciii. 
Waldegrave,  Lady,  portrait  of,  at  Tas- 

sisudon,  26,  43. 
Walker,  Colonel,  superintendent  of  the 

Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India, 

system  of  exploring,  cviii,  cxviii. 
Wallanchdn  pass,  xxxvi,  xcU,  cxv. 
Wandipore,  Ixxii. 
Wang  Cusho,  Tibetan  king,  murdered  by 

Chinese,  102,  194. 
Wangchu  river,  xxxviii. 


Whftrai,  215. 

Whitehead,  poet  laureate,  95. 

Wilcox,  Captain,  his  opinion  as  to  the 

course  of  the  Brahmaputra,  xxx. 
W0I4  night  alarm  caused  by,  116. 
Women,  their  position  in  Bhutan,  30, 64, 

65;  in  Tibet,  11,  75;  polyandry,  12, 

122,  123. 
Wood,  General,  in  Nepal  war,  Ixxxi. 
Wool,  staple  of  Tibet,  cxix. 

TUE-LA  pass,  xxxvii,  civ. 

Take,  laden,  ex,  cxi,  8,  32,  67  (n), 

Tamdok-chu  lake  (tee  Palti). 

Tangma  valley,  xxxvi,  xcii. 

Tangmachen  pass,  xcii. 

Tarkand  river,  xxiii. 

,  occupied  by  Chinese,  135. 

Tellow  Cap  sect  (Gelupka),  xlvii,  xlix, 
lii,  Ui,  24  (»).  179. 

Tule,  Colonel^  C.B.,  acknowledgment  of 
assistance  from,  vii ;  explanation  of  the 
name  Tangut,  xxvi;  on  the  Pon  re- 
ligion, xliii  (n) ;  on  Odoric  of  Poide- 
none,  xlvi. 

Tumilla,  xxxv. 

Yunan,  135, 170. 

Tung-ching,  Emperor  of  China,  bdL 

Zanskab,  Csoma  de  Koros  in,  Izxzviii. 
Zorawar  Sing,  invasion  of  Tibet,  defeat  by 
the  Chinese,  xcv. 


LODOR:  PRIVTSD  BT  WIXXIAM  OXfOWBB  AHD  SOWB,  STAMIORD  BnMWt  AM) 


}{j,0-^[l 


s 


« 


t 


^%-;i 


??aD; 


?<■«:» 


*^^j 

^ 


;:« 


«3 


■./te-<'}r*,:*j 


'iSV'"-" 


■iiir 


'►I, "J 


.1 


-  i: 

'■-!-■ 

'    *    » 


r  I