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Full text of "The national garment cutter book of diagrams. Goldsberry & Doran, proprietors .."

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BOOK OF DIAGRAMS. 



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GOLDSBERRY, DORAN & NELSON, 



i=R,OFK,IE!TOR,S. 



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64:5 Vv^EST LAKE STREET, 



(Chicago, Illinois. 






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LADIES' BASQUE. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side-back, Collar, 
and two Sleeve portions. This Basque is drafted out 
upon the general plan of work. 

Draft Back first ; raise or lower the waist line to 
the desired length. 

Care should be taken to connect waist lines. 



9 



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LADIES' BASQUE— Continued. 



TO DRAFT FRONT. 



The front is drafted upon same plan and by same scale used in drafting Back and Side-back. 
If waist line has been raised or lowered in drafting Back and Side-Back, raise or lower waist line on 
front to correspond. 




H5>J 'l-'^'-'^ 



LADIES' BASQUE— Continued. 



SLEEVE. 



Use the same scale in drafting both upper and lower part of Sleeve that was used in drafting Back, 
Side Back, and Front. This rule has no exception. 



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LADIES' COSTUME. 





Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

It is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, two Sleeve portions, and 
Back and Front Drapery. 

TSE BASQUE 

Is perfectly plain, with collar and cuffs of velvet to correspond with the skirt, which 
is made of velvet. 

THE DRAPERY 

Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. It is in two pieces : 
Front and Back. 

TSE FRONT. 

The right side is laid in three upward-turning plaits, while the left side is laid in 
four backward-turning plaits; press the plaits on the left side, but do not tack them. 

THE BACK DRAPERT. 

Lay six backward-turning plaits on the left side, and also six backward-turning 
plaits on right side, bringing the two together in the center of the back, forming a 
loop in the center of the back, which gives a very graceful drapery without any 
draping. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 



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LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 



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LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 









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GIRL'S COSTUME. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust 
measure. 

It IS in eight pieces: Front, Back, the V 
for the front, Collar, and front of Reverse, 
one-half of Skirt and two Sleeve portions. 

This is very suitable for a school dress. 

THE SKIRT 

Is shirred and sewed to the waist. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 




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CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued. 







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MISSES' WALKING COSTUME. 




THE BASQUE, 

Is drafted by the scale corresponding 

with the bust measure. 

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side 
Back, Vest Front and two Sleeve por- 
tions. 

TO MAME BASQUE 

Like the figure shows, draft the front 
upon the general plan of work. 

Trace from 2i on top measure line 
down to 11 on base line, then from 11 
on base line to 2 on cross measure line 
and down to l-J- on cross measure line 
at the bottom of the basque. Cut this 
out, allowing enough to turn under and 
fasten to the Vest Front. 

THE VEST FRONT 

Is sewed in the first dart and extends 
to 4f on one cross measure line at the 
shoulder. 

THE BACK 

Can be cut plain if preferred. 



13% 13 




MISSES' WALKING COSTUME— Continued. 





LADIES' KILT SKIRT. 





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Use scale corresponding with 
waist measure. 

Is in two pieces: Yoke and 
Plaiting for skirt. 

There are 36 plaits in the 
skirt. But 11)^ are here given, 
the balance are drafted accord- 
ingly- 

Press the plaits carefully and 
sew to the yoke. 

Regulate the length by the 
tape measure. 





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LADIES' COSTUME. 




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TO DItAFT THE BASQUE. 

Use scale corresponding with bust 
measure. 

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side 
Back, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. 

Care should be taken to connect 
waist lines. 

THE DH APERY. 

Use scale corresponding with waist 
measure. 

Is in two pieces: Front and Back. 

The right side of the front draper^■ 
is laid in four upward-turning plaits, 
while the left side is laid in four back- 
ward-turning plaits. 

THE BACK DRAJPEBY. 

The left side is laid in a double box 
plait. 

The right side is laid in seven back- 
ward - turning plaits. They 
marked on the draft. 

The space between 37%^ and S^H 
on base line, is a loop that falls under- 
neath the drapery. Bring 1 5^ on cross 
measure line running from 375^ on base 
line and 12^ on cross measure line run- 
ning from 51^ on base line, together 
at the center of the back. 

This forms a lovely drapery without 
any looping whatever. 



LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 



43 



LEFT SIDE OF BACK DKAPERY 



No.iL 



Double Box Plait 



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11% 
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3V^l_™NT_!6«4 





13 



GIRLS' GABRIELLE WITH BOX PLAITED SKIRT. 




Draft by scale corresponding with bust mea- 
sure. Regulate waist lines and length of 
sleeve as in first basque. Notice the arrows 
closely in drafting. 

If desired, regulate length of skirt by tape 
measure. The skirt is a straight piece of 
goods and may be so cut and plaited to suit 
the taste. 

The distance from 3^ to 6^ at the top of 
the skirt and from 3 to 6% at the bottom, 
forms the outside of one plait. The others 
are laid accordingl3^ 

The draft for the box plaited skirt is given 
on page 15. 

This costume is again shown as a street 
costume on page 14. 






MISSES' STREET COSTUME. 




TO DRAFT 

THE WAIST, 

Use scale corresponding 
with the bust measure. 

Is in three pieces: Front, 
Back and Side Back. 

Is drafted upon the gen - 
eral plan of the work. 

THE JACKET 

Is drafted by scale corre- 
sponding with the bust 
measure. 

Is in five pieces : Front, 
Back, Side Back, and two 
Sleeve portions. 

It has a lap on each side 
of the side back turning 
toward the center of back, 
and finished with three 
buttons on each side. 

THE SKIRT 

Is drafted out by the scale 
corresponding with the 
waist measure. 

Only one-half is here . 
given. 

Is laid in Single Box 
Plaits as shown on the 
figure. 

Can be made of any ma- 
terial. 

THE SASH 

Is of ribbon, or of the same 
material as the suit. 

Regulate the length by 
the use of the tape meas- 
ure. 





BOX PLAITED SKIRT. 



LADIES' OPEN DRAWERS. 



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Use scale corresponding with waist measure. 

Only one-half are given. 

The band can be made any width desired. 

The length can be regulated by the tape measure. 

Allow for the tucks. 




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15 



CHILD'S COSTUME. 




THE POLOmAJSE 

Is drafte'd out by the scale corresponding with the bust measure 
Is in seven pieces, upper and under fronts, upper and under 
backs, collar and two sleeve portions. 

THE UPPER FRONT 

Is drafted out upon the general plan of work, and is laid in three 
folds or plaits, which are located on the cross measure line run- 
ning from 15-3 on base line to 9^ on cross measure line at the 
top, and also on the cross measure line running from 17 on base 
line to 163^ on cross measure line. 

These plaits are carefully folded and pressed and fastened to 
the under front on the line running diagonally from the figure 9 
at the shoulder down to the figure i at the bottom of the draft. 

THE WAIST 

Should be closed on the left side with hooks and eyes. 

THE UNDER FRONT 

Is sewed in the dart iinder the arm, and is made of velvet or any 
contrasting material. 

THE BACK 

Is drafted and plaited upon the same plan. There are three up- 
ward turning plaits in the back drapery. 



mm 




13 V 




CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued. 




10 4 10 




No.l K 
COLLAK 




THE SKIRT 

Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. 

Is in three pieces, Front, Back and Side Gore. 

And is finished at the bottom with two rows of side plaiting three inches wide. 

Any st34e of trimming may be used. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure. 




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LADIES' COSTUME. 



This is a beautiful basque with vest front and single 
front dart. The drapery only of the skirt is given, as 
the under part of the skirt is cut plain with a row of 
narrow plaiting at the bottom. 

TO CUT BASQUE. 

Take measure and follow instructions same as in first 
basque, in cutting this basque. 

The vest part can be of any material desired. 

The skirt is drafted by waist measure. 

In making the basque, if the lining is all that is cut 
as far back as the under arm dart, the vest proper will 
have to be stitched firmly upon the lining. 

The trimming on the side drapery should be a 
straight strip four to six inches wide. 

The sleeve may have a cuff put upon it of same ma- 
terial as vest and trimming on side drapery with very 
pleasant effect. 

The back of the basque i^cut plain and no trimming 
used. 

The collar is a straight band the width desired. 

THE DRAPERY 

Is cut in two pieces : Uack Drapery and Front Drapery. 
Turn eight plaits towards the center in the back 
drapery as shown by the numbers on top measure line. 
Only one-half the drapery is given, and four plaits are 
shown in the part given. 





Turn the first plait by laying the notch at 20% on the center, the next 
plait by placing 143^ on 19^, 7^ on 133^, and 1 on GJ^. This gives the 
plaits on right side. Lay plait on left side the same, and securely fasten 
to the band. 

Lay four plaits at the side in the same manner, according to the figures 
given. 

Turn four plaits in front drapery as shown by the figures. 

Fasten the right side of the drapery with ornaments, leaving it open 
below the last ornament. The left side is fastened all the way down. The 
skirt has a plain narrow plaiting at the bottom. 



18 



LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 








19 



LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 




LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS. 




Collar 
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Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 
Is in six pieces: Right and Left Front, Back, Collar and 
two Sleeve portions. 

The Sash is of Ribbon. 

THE SKIRT 

Is a straight piece of goods or embroidery cut the desired length 
and width. 

The length can be obtained by the tape measure. 






4 5 



13=^4 




81 



GIRLS' PLAITED WAIST AND SKIRT. 




Cut lining first. 

Plait front and back as shown by- 
figures on drafts, making five plaits on 
each side both in front and back. Baste 
the two pieces of J the^^back together 
and lay the goods after plaiting on the 
linings and cut out. 

Ten double box plaits in skirt. 

Plaits can be made from straight 
material without making draft. 




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GIRLS' PLAITED WAIST AND SKIRT— Continued. 



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Ten double box plaits in skirt. Only three are 
given in plate. Others are made the same. 




7%. 4 '4 






LADIES' TEA GOWN. 




THE FLAITING 

For the front is laid in fine forward turning plaits and fastened 
to the lining, and the upper front is blind stitched over it. 

The revers of velvet may be omitted. If preferred lace may 
be used with a very pleasing effect. 

THE BACK 

Is laid in two double box plaits. 

Care sliould be taken to connect waist lines. 
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure. 



Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in seven pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Plaiting for 
Front, Collar and two Sleeve portions. 

The line on the front marked under front is to cut the lining 
out by, and the line marked upper front is to cut the goods out 
by, that the Tea Gown is to be made of. 




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84 



LADIES' TEA GOWN— Continued. 




LADIES' POLONAISE. 




This Polonaise consists of five pieces: Back, Side 
Back, Front and two Sleeve portions. 

Cut back and side back upon the general plan of 
work. 

Cut the right front on the line running diagonal 
from 131^ on the fourth cross measure line down to 

Cut the left front straight as shown by the line 
running from 11}4 on third cross measure line to 17J^ 
on tenth cross line. 

In making up this costume lay two double box 
plaits in back as shown by the figures . 

Joint front and side form, pressing the seams 
carefully. 

Lay four side plaits on each front as shown in 
draft by the points, cut in on space between 171^ and 
18 J^; sew in the four plaits and press carefully. 

Loop up the back with one or two loops as 
desired. 

Drape back and front so the lower drapery is 
even. 

Bring the drapery on side back up in five plaits as 
shown by the lines between 12^ and 32%. The distance 
from 121^ to 19 (on base line), forms one plait, the 
center being at IBJ^, 19 to 24 forming another; but it is 
easier to plait up from the bottom, beginning with 33 to 
28 and ending with 19 to 12%. 

The skirt is a plain skirt with a row of plaiting at 
the bottom. Use any kind of buttons and ornaments 
desired. 

Set the buttons on left front. 

(No instructions are given in running seams, as it 
is deemed unnecessary.) 




26 



LADIES' POLONAISE— Continued. 




.X^xX" ^\- 




97 



MISSES' COSTUME. 




Draft back and side back of 
basque upon the same plan given 
in first basque. 

But do not connect the .three 
points from arms eye on back 
with the curve as there given. 

Connect two points at a 
time. 



DRAFT FBOKT 

by drawing base hne at least three spaces from 
edge of material. Make the draft as shown in 
diagram. 

TO GET BIGHT FRONT 

turn under the material on line i ^ spaces from base 
line. Take a tracing w^heel and trace the line be- 
ginning on the point at i ^ on third cross line out 
to 3^. Follow the line down to 4 on next line be- 
low. Follow this line by tracing down by points 
marked 4, 3^ to 134^ on waist line. 

Turn this back and cut the goods on the tracing 
line outside of base line and to x]^ waist line. 
This gives the right front. 

THE LEFT FRONT 

is cut on the line in draft same as any other plain 
front. 

Instead of cutting diagonal as has been given, the 
basque may be cut full double-breasted by running 
line as much farther back as desired, than is here 
given; then running the line down to top of first 




Any st3'le of diagonal or double-breasted garment 
may be gotten up on this plan, or if preferred the 
cutter may use the plan of draft given in ladies' 
polonaise wath diagonal front. 

Gather the sleeve, making notches, join at 



dart and following first line of dart down to bottom elbow. Collar is a straight band width and length 
of basque. desired. 



88 



MISSES' COSTUME— Continued. 







1^43*4 8_// 




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MISSES' COSTUME— Continued. 



BACK AKD SIDE DBAJPEBT, 




^i.:;Only one-half of each of drapery is here given. Four plaits on each side of waist line of back 

Lay plaits in each piece to correspond with numbers drapery. Three at the side of back drapery, 
given in draft. Lay seven plaits in side drapery. 




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MISSES' COSTUME-Continued. 



ONE-HALF FRONT DBAFERT. 







31 



BOYS' PLAIN WAIST AND PANTS. 



TO DRAFT WAIST. 



Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. 
Is in two pieces: Front and Back. 



TO DRAFT PANTS. 

Use scale corresponding with the hip measure. 

Is in two pieces: Front and Back. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape 
measure. 







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LADIES' WRAP. 





Use scale to correspond with 
bust measure. Sew the sleeve in 
the seam between back and side 
back. Put parts together to cor- 
respond with the notches on the 
different parts. Trim to suit. 

Half inch seams. 



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LADIES' COSTUME. 

Use scale corresponding with the bust 
measure. 

Is in seven pieces : Front, Back, Front Drap- 
ery, RoUing and Standing Collar, and two 
Sleeve portions. 

Is cut with a polonaise back and basque 
front, with a long drapery in front, as shown 
in the figure. 

To make the front of the basque as repre- 
sented here, draft the front the same as any 
other front; tr-ace on the dotted line running 
diagonal from 3^ on ^ cross measure line, 
down to io}4 on base line, turn away and join 
the rolling collar, and let it extend to the center 
of the back. The V in the front is made of 
any material. Either plaited or plain velvet 
combines with any material, and gives the cos- 
tume a very rich and stylish finish. 





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34 



LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 




15%15 



LADIES' SKIRT WITH REEDS. 



Use scale corresponding with the waist measure. 
Is in three pieces : Front, Side Gore, and one-half of Back 
Breadth. 

If but three reeds are used, omit the lower one. 
Regulate the length by the tape line. 



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.36 



CHILD'S COSTUME. 






Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 
Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Vest Front, Collar, and one- 
half of the Skirt. 

THE VEST 

Can be made of the same material as the dress, and the Collar 
made of the contrasting material, if preferred. 

THE SKIRT 

Is laid in single box plaits; the trimming may be omitted. 
Regulate the length by the tape measure. 



5, Half Box Plait ^ 2 



Box Plait 



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37 



LADIES' COSTUME. 




TO CUT BASQUE. 

Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, 
Under-arm Gore, Vest, Collar, and two 
Sleeve portions. 

The vest is sewed in the first dart and in 
the shoulder seam, and can be made of vel- 
vet or any contrasting color. 

The sleeves can be finished at the hand 
with a small round cuff of the same material 
as the vest, with very pleasing effect. 

THE SKIRT 

Is drafted by the waist measure, and is in 
four pieces: Front, Right and Left Sides, 
and Back Drapery. 

The front is made of the same material as 
the vest and cuffs. 

The left side consists of two double box 
plaits. 

The right side has five side plaits turning 
toward the front, as shown on draft. 

The straps across the front are 31/^ inches 
wide. 

The lower one is 7 inches long, and th 
upper one is 51^ inches long; cut the remain 
ing four to correspond, and fasten on fron 
of skirt, as shown by the figure. 

First make a foundation skirt (cut fror 
the plain skirt pattern). Press the plait 
carefully, tack with tape underneath, to sta; 
the plaits, and fasten to foundation skirt a 
the waist with a band; finish bottom o 
foundation skirt with knife plaiting 3 inche 
wide. 

The back drapery is laid in five plait 
turning tow^ard center of back; drape up t'„ 
make bottom even. 





2V4 



«Ne» d 






? COLLAR 



^he%i%i 




^\ & 





A» 


3*^//-2«^ 


A ' 1 


/ !f 


"ifiW 




!ti fq crj 




3 £ \^ 


4:% 


- -8- V-SU 




■ '\ 


No.BX\ \ 




1^' 



t=2^a 



5\ 4' 



10% 
13% 



u% 



s^^iv^ 



38 




ISVa 



21% 



LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 






'^%i^%W 









8^^-81 Q% 



I'y, 



34 



■w- 



-v7- t;; ^7:7 mp V- 

3TS Lf ^>'x5tSl^ "^xlgJ-gOS^^iSg 



8r,|iS 2Z%ZZ %il V18T ^/i§8 %8*8S '^ 



/ii 



S9^i9 ^/^esiios 



c3 






o 

t-9 



Topof Jkirt 



No.BX 



60 






64Va 



J 62^461»457^a56 52*4 



A A A A 



45S 42 40^^37 35% 32 28^^27 23V322 18^4 

A A A A A A -'A /\ A C 



llVa sViG»/4 3i,lf4 



■tsVo 



LADIES' COSTUME— Continued. 



^7'//: 


1 
1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
i 

1 

1 - 

1 o 

i §• 
1 ft 

1 « 

1 a 

1^ 

1 
I 
f 


S 




sc% 


33 -^ 


25 Va 22^*4 
Top of Skirt 

No.B X 


- V ■ V- 






1 

a? 

pi 
<s 


47«/ 


h'^' 


41 

— &. 


/4 


37*4 


32 


27*4 22*^8 


\J\ \2\ 


7 


I, 

'3- 


V-i 



43! 



^^ 



c'b 



P 



H 

O 

© 
W 

w 

w 
w 

><1 



20 3/4 
19% 



14 V4 
13^4 



7% 






EIGHT SIBE BAGS DEAPERY 



^s M 


h- M 


® o 


*! f^ 


^i5 ^S;' 


^^ ^ 



1^ o 



40 



{»> 



LADIES' KITCHEN APRON. 



Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Shoulder-strap, 
Belt, Pocket, and Strap. 

The binding should be held tight, to prevent 
enlarging the neck. 

Regulate length by the tape line. 




LADIES' CUTAWAY JACKET. 




Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, 
and two Sleeve portions. 

Is made of any material, and can be worn with 
any costume. 

Interline the collar with canvas. 

Connect waist lines. 









«e CO 

00^ oBn ijis. 







42 




LADIES' MORNING DRESS. 

Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, 
Back Breadth, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. 

Is drafted upon the general plan of work. 

The back breadth is turned down two inches; 
gather and sew to the back on the curved line 
iSi^ on base line, and the curved line on side 
back 1 21^ on base line. 

Sew the back and side back together first; the 
bottom can be finished with plaiting or gathered 
ruffles. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 



f¥i^. 



^« 



Collar n>s 

\ yp.F X 1 V 






Back Breadth of Sldvl 



A 








r^o.F X 



«ilV. 



37 



litijiP 



;i".si.„„ ~,-^ 



I- No.FX 



t> -' 



!;(1 'od" 'H ^I'-in 



ifc^ of » » at 








CO 


l« 


l« 


o 


OS 


(-* 




»<- 


»* 



H* (Z>CC-<1 



^nT 






4a 



CHILD'S CLOAK. 





l«^4 






l"/* 




Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar and 
two Sleeve portions. 

Lay two single box plaits in the back. 

The front can be finished with buttons, if 
preferred. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 




19 I8V2 



19 18 V2 



INFANTS' HIGH NECK DRESS. 




Use scale corresponding with bust 
measure. 

Is in four pieces: Front, Back, 
Side-gore and Sleeve. 

The upper and the under part of 
sleeve is drafted together, as shown 
in draft. 

Quantity of material required: 36 
inches wide, 2^ yards; wide lace, 
2% yards; insertion, 5 yards. 



o /^ — 




10% 



/N0.JX 



lP%__..6tV4' 





3 1/3 




/VJ 


/ 




L 





Front Gore 



No.JX 



[14 



12^4 





52% 



45 



LADIES' POLONAISE. 




Use scale corresponding with bust 
measure. 

Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar 
and two Sleeve portions. 

The two fronts are cut together, to 
avoid a seam down the front of the 
drapery. 

It is easily drafted if care is taken to 
follow the lines and figures given on 
the diagram. Each piece is numbered. 
Study the draft carefully before com- 
mencing. 

The left side is sewed together with 
the back drapery. 

Lay four upward turning plaits on 
right side, and fastened to the back 
drapery, as shown on the figure. 

The bow of ribbon can be omitted, if 
preferred. 

The back and side back are drafted 
together, as shown on diagram. 

The line running diagonally from 
2i% on base line to 6}4 ^^ waist line, 
extending to 9% on waist line, is laid 
in five side plaits, turning toward center 
of back, and fastened firmly to center 
of back. 

Lay six side plaits on each side, on 
cross measure line, running from 32% 
on base line to 19% on the opposite 
side of draft. When plaited, press 
carefully and tack to tape, to stay the 
plaits. Omit the tacking at the bottom. 





LADIES' POLONAISE— Continued. 



11V4 




23> 

'3 




CHILD'S COSTUME. 




This is a beautiful costume, suitable for either boy or girl. 

Is drafted by bust measure, and is in six pieces: Front, 
Back, Belt, Collar and two Sleeve portions. 

There are three single box plaits in front and back, 
extending to the shoulders, and three under the arm, as 
shown in draft. 

The plaits at top of back are marked on 2 measure line, 
or fourth line drawn from top, for convenience ; and the plaits 
are marked on front on 33^ measure line, for the same reason. 



i\ 


/ 

1 


r 


5S 


1 










© 


1 


\ 


X. 


1" 




X 


■ 




0. 


1 




^ 







4^-4 2^4 *4 



^8V 



-^ • 21^ ^'j V 



48 



CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued. 





GIRLS' COSTUME. 



Use scale corresponding with the bust 
measure to cut the Polonaise. 

Is in six pieces : Front and Vest Front, 
Back, Side Back, Collar, and one-half of 
plaiting for the Skirt. 

THE VEST 

is sewed in the under-arm dart and at the 
shoulders. 

The Vest, Lappel, and Collar can be 
made of velvet or any contrasting ma- 
terial if desired. 

Regulate the length by the use of the 
tape measure. 




Bte^iSiif-lffj^rfii- r I- i-^ r ■->- ■-'„■ -,.'"4:-- y .. .■-■>->-^.--, :^, ;ki.j^-«iat 



14% 



50 



83% 




GIRLS' COSTUME— Continued. 





51 



LADIES' STREET JACKET. 





Use scale corresponding with 
bust measure. 

Is in ten pieces: Jacket Front, 
Vest Front, Back, Side Back, Under- 
arm Gore, Rever for front of Jacket, 
Collar, Cuff, and two Sleeve por- 
tions. 

The jacket can be made of any 
material. 

Lay two double box plaits in the ^^ »-''4 3-Vs e^Vj;''%4 
back. 

The vest is made of velvet. 

The vest front and jacket front 
are joined together with the under- 
arm gore. 




10 



V y ■^^ 



' No.K X 



3 k 



3 2 



»2 Ki 



2^ 



9% 



15 



uvs ;-j,G«/j sVs 1% 



!1% 









52 



CHILD'S COSTUME. 



TO CUT JACKET. 

Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 
Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve 
portions. 

THE SKIRT 

Is drafted by waist measure, and is in two pieces, half of 
s*kirt, and yoke. 

There are two double box plaits in skirt; 5^ are 
given in plate. Others are made the same. 

The Trimming on skirt can be omitted, if desired. 

The length can be regulated by tape measure. 




69 1 



G9ic 



69 66166!. 68'4 ii> ^^&xl^&Vy.&4^:b6%l''i\^» %i^ \i^i\i^^^^ sa'^ •■jy\2'5'^«'jS8V^3ai,^ll>^l'.^^ IBlj U. 


4 i 


S I 


% 


2 'i 


it,A 


Top of Skirt 










4^ 


No.D X 












Plait 

Plait 

Plait 

Plait 










«l-4 


68i66'-.653<68li 60l Stt.'jr Slir.sS-SOi-oOVr 4r^443{^ 48'-41?<89j'88 35V»4Ji88?<,29?s 2G'< a6li38«<83i80ll9k 1? 14 




K<'^ 


45-4 


■'■> 



53 



CHILD'S CLOAK. 




Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, one-half of Skirt, 
Hood, Collar and two Sleeve portions. 

This is a very fashionable Cloak, and can be made 
of any material. 

The Skirt is cut long, and can be plaited if preferred. 

The Cuffs, Collar and Hood lining is made of 
velvet. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape line. 





5% 5 




*^ 



t9 to 



CLOAK BELT 



CO 



NO.l B 



o^." 



•a 



*\" 



Collar 

2f > 



B4 



CHILD'S OLOAK-Continued. 



-< 




XaiHS dO JOX 












© 

Hi 

< 




^ 








^? 










^ 


la 


" 






IS 


»j 








Ol 




I*''* 



(- 5^5 




5'„-l 




GIRLS* APRON. 




5 2i 



This garment is laid off by the bust measure and in 
accordance with the general directions. It is in five 
pieces: Front, Back, Yoke, Pocket and Sash. Gather 
across the top of the back and join it to the yoke from 
one end of each portion of the sash and insert it in the 
under-arm seams as shown by notches. Turn a lap 
on the pocket and attach it in proper place. Any 
style of trimming may be used. One inch is allowed 
on shoulder and under-arm seams; one-fourth inch on 
all others. 13^ space seam on the shoulders. 





$ 



ec 




to 

COM 


y 


>: 


*+- 






^ 


1 




'^ 1 




©■ 


.^ 1 




tl 




>j 


\ 1 




-> 




13 


\ • 




1 






1 \ 1 




66 



LADIES* NEWMARKET WITH CAPE. 




This is again shown on page 58. 

The Cape and rolling Collar are 
given on this page, and drafted by the 
scale corresponding to the bust meas- 
ure. 

This Cape can be made of fur, As- 
trachan cloth, or of the same material 
as the Newmarket. 




,-* as 





SI 




«0 




•>• I>.QO CS 


1-4 


y-k 


IH 


(M 





57 



LADIES' NEWMARKET. 




1*4 



Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, 
and two Sleeve portions. 

Lay six plaits in the center of the back, and finish 
with an arrowhead, made of silk twist, or any kind 
of ornament desired. 

Use large buttons to fasten front and finish the 
sleeves. 













58 



LADIES' NEWMARKET— Continued. 




2%2*'4 




S2 21% 





5» 



LADIES'DWRAP. 




Use scale corresponding with bust 
measure. 

Is in five pieces: Front, Back, under- 
arm Gore, Collar and Sleeve. 

Draft upon the general plan. 

Connect waist lines in putting the 
garment together. 

Fold the sleeve at the figure 13 54^ 
on base line, designated by a star, after 
which join it to the back. Join to the 
star on the cross measure line running 
from 1 5/^ on base line. 

Between the two stars at the top of 
the sleeve on cross measure line run- 
ning from I ^ on base line are to be 
gathered. 

Follow the arrows closely in drafting. 

There is one double box plait in the 
center of the back. 

Any style of an ornament can be 
used. 




*"-<f 



,^\" 



Ko.BX 

Collar 



*^r 




60 



LADIES' WRAP— Continued. 





22 C:^-- 




LADIES' STREET COSTUME. 




Use scale corresponding with 
the bust measure. 

Is in six pieces: Right and Left 
Front, Back, Collar and two 
Sleeve portions. 

This is a beautiful polonaise, 
and easily drafted if care is taken 
to follow the arrows closely. 

Each plait is marked. 

The left Front has seven up- 
ward-turning plaits. 

The right Front has three up- 
ward-turning plaits. 

These two fronts are drafted 
separately, but the material of 
which the Polonaise is to be 
made should be cut double to 
avoid a seam down the front. 

The waist is left open down to 
the figures 25 on base line. 

The Back and Side Back is drafted together. The extra fullness in the back is 
laid in plaits. 

There are two loops, one on each side. 

The Back is draped up until it becomes even at the bottom of the skirt, 

THE SKIRT 

Is cut from the plain skirt given in this issue. Any style of trimming may be 
used on the Skirt. 




Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure. 



62 



LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued. 



^'- 




iQ Ifi'/ fc'afetlliiA _i«_^M' __i <>V8_^Vaisl Iiue_ 

^L—ITl __3, ., _1I__J c e, 

1Q\ 12 4 10% 8% 5V^ I'/j 2 



19 



IG 



24V, 



19 



32 



61 



/« 



08V8 

59 



COLLAR 
NO. 2 A 



^^ 





LADIES' STREET OOSTUME-Continued. 




,3/ ^^■^S*-'\2V4 ., 



12V 11^^ 




64 



CHILD'S APRON. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 
It is in two pieces: One-half of Front and Tie. 
Ribbon can be used for the ties, if preferred. 
Regulate length by the tape measure. 



?% 



9 
Si 



M 

H 

o 



8\k^-^ 



28*/. 







65 



CHILD'S STREET COSTUME. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust 
measure.^ ;!^^^f^ 

Is in seven pieces: Upper and Under 
FrontSj^Back and Front, Collar and two 
Sleeve portions. 

This is drafted upon the general plan of 
work. 

The Front and Side Back are drafted 
together. 

Baste the Front and Back together; get 
the desired length for the skirt by the tape 
measure. It is a straight piece of goods, can 
be either laid in plaits or gathered. This cos- 
tume is gathered. The Back is finished with 
a large bow of ribbon. 

The Upper Front is shirred on 24 cross- 
measure line, and sewed to the Under Front on 
2iJ^ cross measure line. The Upper Front is 
gathered at the neck to fit Under Front. The 
right side is fastened firmly to the Front. The 
garment is closed on the left side with hooks 
and eyes. Lace may be used instead of em- 
broidery, if desired. Regulate the length by 
the use of tape measure. 




20'^^ 



CHILD'S STREET COSTUME— Continued. 



9Va 




H 

o 

P4 

Ph 
P^ 
P 



Waist line 



NO. 2D 



l«S/ I Shirr on this l ine 



fa 

© 

P 



2% 
3/s 



17 



34 



37% 
37% 





P H 
^ P 
P W 



-117 

Vi'alst Hue 



8 I Taclc sMiH^F— 
4f 'to this line 



NO. 2.D 



2/5 



K9% 




or 



LADIES' SPENCER WAIST. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar and two 
Sleeve portions, i % space seams. 

Make belt the desired length and width. 






1^ 



^?Mj 



6 

I ft 




LADIES' DUSTING CAP. 



Use scale 32 to draft this out by. Can be made of any material. 





to tS to K) to 

«9 •-] OS V 1-1 



^ 



Ci to to 



LADIES' SHORT WRAP. 




Use scale correspond- 
ing with the bust meas- 
ure. 

Is in five pieces: 
Front, Back, Under- j„i/ 
arm Gore, Collar and 
Sleeve. 

Follow the arrows j 
closely. 

Connect the waist -^^ 
lines and join the 
notches. 

Close in front with 
hooks and eyes. 
- Any style of trim- 
ming may be used. 





B9 



CHILD'S CLOAK. 





Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in eight pieces: Front Back, Side Back, 
Collar, Cuff, Hood, and two Sleeve portions. Lay 
the plaits in Back and Side Back according to the 
notches. Gather the hood at the top and bottom. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape 
measure. 






ISO. 5 F 




2 /^ 




U'i ' 



i\ 



~V\tL 




7% 



CHILD'S CLOAK— Continued. 



:k 




//<» 


«, I 






If 








1 iS 


#1 \ 


/r 


el \ 


h? 


^«\ 


r 


1 \ 


1 




r 
1 


i\ 


1 


11 


■~-~— .^ 1 




29V 



CHILD'S COSTUME. 




COLLAR 




: 


NO. 5M 




1 


Cut Donble ( 


1 


1^ 









To draft Jacket, Vest and Sleeves, use scale 
corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in eight pieces: two Fronts, two Backs, 
Collar, two Sleeve portions and one-half of 
Skirt. 

This is drafted upon the general plan of 
work. 

The Skirt is drafted by the scale correspond- 
ing with the waist measure. Lay plaits ac- 
cording to the notches. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape 
measure. 




CHILD'S COSTUME— Continued. 





\" 


«s 


1 




i 


1 


ec 


1 


1 S 


1 


1" 


1 
1 






■^ I— -J -* 






<J3 



o 



/j Inch Scam 







•< 






01 


v»* 


w- 


^ 


eo< 


>eo 


' 


.A" 


w^<» 


-"H 


»o< 




-^*' 


osN-* 


oo< 


><X> 


-i^ 


=0^ 


©< 


ft> 


11^ 




«-* 


■* 


s< 


>rH 


e*-* 


>3 




^\* 


• 


as 


e»< 


>»H 


r-i 






01 


M 


J?* 




■* 




>.»l 


?< 


-X** 


M 


>o 


^^ 


01 


»o< 




M 


»r 




ea 


^ 




s< 


O H4 




» M 


»» T^< 


CX2 


ej 09 




to 


fH 




o 




>©9 P>( 

o 




>0 H 


^^ 


05 


«e< 




09 


© 


e^ 


>"* 


06 






-I 


■* 


• 


>•* 
=7^ -J 




^ ' 


^ 




oi^ 




«©< 




^ 


C» 




^■«* 




«\"* 


©, 


>t4 


s^ 


>S 


(S* 




r*< 






W9 


ri^ 


.W9 


"»< 




isr 


>«© 




»o 






i>< 




kO 




^ 




CO 


T-l 


. — — -§< 


«D 


HALT OF BOX PLAIT 




IN FKONT 




•^*' 




^ 


« 



LADIES' CHEMISE. 






*• 


>— 


•i!^ 






^ 2 


ts 


14 




^-^- 


c 














*^ 


I 






^4 




Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Front Yoke, 
Back Yoke, Band and Sleeve. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 






*-^ - — ■ ^ 


\ ' Front Yoke i e^>J 







1 


Ko.G X 


Im 


~=r- 


-^.„.^ 


'^ 


-_.^____ 


-l- 


Sleeve 


1 

1 







/11V4 



Front 



©■ 



ii 



Back 



d 



Al 



flft 



_J35 



IG 



33% 
35 



w 



CHILD'S COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in three pieces : Front, Back, and Sleeve. 

Is drafted out upon the general plan of work. 

Follow the arrows closely. 

No allowance is made for the tucks. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure. 






74 



CHILD'S COMBINATION— Continued. 




75 



LADIES' STREET COSTUME. 





FRONT VIEW. 

TO DRAFT BASQUE. 

Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 

Is in eight pieces — Front, Back, Side Back, two 
Under Arm Gores, Collar and two Sleeve portions. 

This is a French basque, of which there is such 
a demand at present, and gives the most perfect 
shape to the figure for which we are fitting of any 
basque we have. 

The Front may be turned away and insert a vest 
if preferable, and also allowance may be made for 
plaits in the Back. 



THE SLEEVES 

May be finished with a cuff at the hand ifPdesired. 

THE DRAPERY. 

Use scale corresponding with the waist measure. 

Is in two pieces — Front and Back, and is laid in 

plaits as shown on the figure. The pattern for the 

wrap is given in this issue, and is a very stylish and 

dressy wrap. 

THE SKIRT 

Is cut from the plain skirt pattern, given in this 

issue. Regulate the length by the use of the tape 

measure. 

The diagrams for the wrap is given on page 80. 



78 



LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued. 





BACK VIEW. 




K) 


t« 


ts 


>*». 


t« 


l-» 




^« 





LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued. 




QO 

© 



--1 -<1 



^1 CS 


o es 


© © 


Oi to 


x"" ■^'" 


N," x" 


l*-^ » 


th » 





C« 09 


to to 

© QO 


to to 

09 lO 


•a A 



at ta 







19^/a 




LADIES' STREET COSTUME— Continued. 



.x-* 


-<'--'' 


-\ 


N« 




:^''„v 


'T) 


s «s 


r« 


N 


CO 


<M « 


>-< 


<N 51 


*J 


■as 


« 


-i< -i* 



1~ t^ 





- 3Va2% 




COLLAM FOR WRAP. 






PS 

© 



6k 



LADIES' WRAP. 



Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 
It consists of four pieces: Front, Back, Sleeve 
and Collar. 

This is drafted upon the general plan of work. 

Watch the arrows closely. 

Join together according to the notches. 



The sleeves are loose. 

Any style of trimming may be used, and almost 
any material. 

Find collar for wrap on page 79- 

The design of this wrap is given on page 76 and 
77 (Ladies' Street Costume). 






80 



CHILD'S STREET COSTUME. 





Use scale correspouding with the bust 
measure. 

Is in ten pieces : Right and Left Front, 
Yoke and Shirring for Front, Bacls, Side 
Back, Collar, two Sleeve portions and one- 
half of box-plaited Skirt. 

THE FRONT. 

The dotted line running from 33^ on first 
cross measure line down to 4J^ on bottom 
line is the lining for the yoke and shirring 
for vest. After the shirring for the vest is 
gathered at top and sewed to the yoke and 
gathered at the bottom, baste it to the right 
front. Close at the left side with hooks 
and eyes. 

THE BACK 

Is faced with the same material as 
the vest front and looped up to form 
a bow in center of back. Any style 
of trimming may be used. 

THE SKIRT 

Is laid in box plaits. 

Regulate length by the tape meas- 
ure. 



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so 

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11*4 4^ / - - 



Ttr^27 



81 



OHILDS' STREET COSTUME— Continued. 







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82 



LADIES' COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT. 




Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. 
Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Sleeve. 
Is drafted out upon the general plan of work. 
Follow the arrows closely. 
No allowance is made for the tucks. 
Regulate the length b}- the use of the tape 
measure. 






83 



BOYS' SUIT. 




Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. 

Is in eight pieces : Front, Back, Collar, Belt and 
two Sleeve portions, and the two portions for the 
Knee Pants. 

Is drafted on the general plan of work. 

Each plait is marked on the draft. 

Follow the arrows closely. 

THE PANTS 

Are drafted by the scale corresponding with the 
waist measure. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape 
measure. 




_6ii 



SVs SV^ 



6% 



18 V, 





SV-aS 1% 5^4 % 



84 



BOYS' SUIT— Continued. 




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85 



BOYS' SUIT. 




To cut the Coat and Vest 
use scale corresponding with 
chest measure. 

THE COAT 

Is in six pieces : Front, Back, 
Collar, Pocket Lap and two 
Sleeve portions. 

Is drafted out upon the 
general plan. 



Is in two pieces: Front and 



Back. Care should be taken § / {-- ~ 

to follow the arrows in draft- 
ing. 



MEN'S OVERALLS WITH APRON. 




l2«4 A 



;^ 



7^ 



29^/4 



Use scale corresponding with waist measure. 

Is in two pieces: One-half of Overalls and Strap. 

Regulate the length by the use of the tape line. 




87 



BOYS' OVERCOAT. 





Use scale corresponding with bust measure. 

Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Collar, two 
Pocket Laps and two Sleeve portions. 

Is drafted upon the general plan of work. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 





BOYS' OVERCOAT— Continued. 





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BOYS' STREET COSTUME. 




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Use scale corresponding with the bust 
measure. 

Is in ten pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, 
Collar, Cuff, Belt, two Sleeve portions, and 
two portions of the Skirt. 

THE FRONT. 

Lay a box plait down the centre of the front 
and a side plait on each side turning toward 
the centre of front. 

THE BACK. 

Lay a box pl^it down the centre of back and a side plait on 
each side turning toward centre of back. 
Each plait is marked. 




THE SKIRT 

Is drafted by the waist measure. Is in two pieces : Box plaiting 
for front and side plaiting for back part of skirt. Each plait is 
marked. Regulate the length by the tape measure. 



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BOYS' STREET COSTUME— Continued. 



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BOYS' COSTUME. 





15%^,;::::- — 



THE COAT. 

Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. 
Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar, and two 
Sleeve portions. 

This is drafted upon the general plan of work. 

THE VEST. 

Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. 
Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Strap. 

THE FJJiTS. 

Use scale corresponding with the hip measure. 
Is in four pieces: Front, Back, Fly, and Pocket 
Facing. 

Regulate the length by the tape measure. 





BOYS' COSTUME— Continued. 





BOYS' COSTUME-Oontinmed. 







GENTLEMAN'S PRINCE ALBERT COAT. 



corresponding with the chest 



Front, Back, Side Back, 
Front, Collar and two 



Use scale 
measure. 

Is in eight pieces: 
Skirt, Facing for 
Sleeve portions. 

This is drafted out upon the general plan 
of work. 

Follow the arrows closely. 

Regulate the length by the use of the 
tape measure. 

GENTLEMAN'S VEST. 

Take the chest measure over the vest and 
use scale to correspond. Take measure for 
length from center of the back of the neck 
over the shoulder, close to the neck, down in 
front' the length to- be worn, plus one inch 
for seams. This will give correct length 
of vest. 

Make up with or without collar, as desired. 

The front can be cut higher or lower, 
to suit. 

GENTLEMAN'S PANTS. 

Take the measure directly over hip joint — 
this gives the number of scale to use. 

Regulate size if the waist and length of 
leg by the tape line. 

The length of leg can be taken by inseam 
measure, or from the hip-joint to sole of shoe. "■^ 
If the length of leg has to be changed, 
change the knee line one-half the distance. 
Cut the right side of front on the inside line 



on the front for the fly. 
the outer line. 



Cut the left side on 





(iXV 



GENTLEMAN'S SUIT— Continued. 




T^T- 



ZI3 



WAIST BAND 



45 c 





CHILD'S COSTUME. 

This costume, as shown, is suited for 
either boy or girl. Draft by chest meas- 
ure. Only one-half the skirt is given, as 
both sides are alike. 

In making up, use half inch seams. 

IJ^ spaces for hem on Vest. Sew Vest 
on front on line marked on line drawn 
from 2^:^ on top measure line to 4 at the 
bottom of vest. 

Work the button holes in the right side 
of the vest, sewing buttons on the left side. 

There need be no button holes with bu.t- 
tons on either side of vest. If desired, a 
double row of machine stitching may be 
used at each side of the front at edge next 
to vest. 

The front in draft is made so as to omit 
vest, if desired, and make plain front. 

If vest is used, cut goods on line marked 
1}^ at neck, and 2% at bottom. 

If plain do not cut on this line, but use 
base line for front edge. 

The pocket is merely a strip sewed on, 
but the pocket can be put in if desired. 

If made for a girl, omit pocket. 

If desired, narrow braid or machine 
stitching around sleeves to form cuff, gives 
the suit a nice finish. In such cases omit 
the cuff drafted for it. Lay a box plait in 
front of skirt, making the line 61 to 60% 
from the cut edge of plait, placing this 
line at 56 at the top, and on the point at 57 
at the bottom to form plait. Place 55 on 
513^ at top and 553^^ on 51^ at the bottom 
to form next plait ; all others are formed 
in like manner. 

Any other style of plaits desired may be 
used. The skirt is a plain strip of goods 
length and width desired, and can be cut 
without draft being made and plaits laid 
in the goods. 



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BOYS' OVERCOAT. 




r/| 




V/8 



Use scale corresponding with the chest measure over the 
coat. 

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, Pocket 
Lap, and two Sleeve portions. 

This garment is drafted out upon the general plan of work. 

Regulate the length by the tape line. 



s\ 



H 
■W- 

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p-i 



5^ 

o 
12; 



3V4 



J 6k 




BOYS' OVERCOAT-Continued. 



->% 




I7\t-- 





GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT. 



Draft by scale corresponding with Chest measure taken 
over the coat. 

Regulate length and size of waist by tape line. 

Take measure for Sleeve from center of back to knuckle 
joint. 

Deduct width of back piece — less one inch for seams- 
this gives length of sleeves. If length of sleeve by the scale „ 
corresponds with this measure, the length is correct; if not, * 
change the scale line at wrist until it corresponds with tape 
measure, changing elbow line one-half the distance same 2%' 
direction. Regulate length to suit. 







* 



1 



/ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 061 973 5