UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
AT LOS ANGELES
UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AG
FARMERS'
BULLETIN
ASHINGTON, D. C. 685 OCTOBKR 12, 1915
Contribution from the Bureau of Plant Industry, Win. A. Taylor, Chief.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
By W. F. FLETCHER,
Scientific Assistant, Office of Horticultural and Pomological Investigations.
CONTENTS.
Page.
Introduction 1
Botanical classification 2
Natural distribution of the persimmon 2
General description of the persimmon 3
Possibilities of improvement 5
Present status of the native persimmon 6
Page.
7
19
20
21
21
Selected and cultivated named varieties 24
Propagation of the persimmon
Cultivation of the persimmon
Diseases and insect pests
Uses of the persimmon tree
Uses of the persimmon fruit
INTRODUCTION.
The persimmon seems to have been the first native American fruit
> be described and praised by the early explorers. De Soto learned
its food value in 1539, and in 1557 published an account of it at
JEvora, Portugal. Trie following year, 1558, Jan de Laet described
j the persimmon in his work on Virginia. John Smith's narrative of
the settlements and resources of the New World, written during the
first years of the seventeenth century, included a long discussion of
the persimmon. In his reference to this fruit, where he says "If it be
not ripe, it will draw a man's mouth awrie with much torment," he
so well characterizes the puckering, astringent effect of the tannin
[contained in the immature fruit that no other comment is necessary.
The persimmon tree has received more criticism, both adverse and
[favorable, than almost any other known species. Those who have
discussed the food value of the fruit, from the earliest chroniclers to
recent writers, have prophesied that the tree would soon be accorded
a place in our gardens and orchards. Those people, on the other
j hand, who have been acquainted only with the immature fruit or
I with the young sprouts in cultivated fields have had nothing to say
NOTE. This is a general bulletin, intended for those to whom knowledge of the production, prepara-
tion, and uses of the native persimmon is of value.
OF
COLLEGE Of
BERKELEY, CAUFQP*
'FARMERS' BVLLETJ-N 686.
in its favor and have bent their energies toward its destruction rather
than its propagation and cultivation.
There are several factors which are responsible for the slow progress
of persimmon development in this country. One reason for the
neglect of this fruit seems to be the erroneous yet oft-repeated state-
ment that persimmons are unfit to eat until they have either been
touched by frost or frozen. Although this statement has been
corrected by nearly every one who has studied the subject, neverthe-
less throughout the regions where persimmons are grown many of the
best fruits are lost each year because they ripen and fall before frost
or before they are supposed to be edible. The truth of the matter
is that freezing is as detrimental to the quality of persimmons as to
the quality of any other fruit. If persimmons are not edible and
free from astringency before frost, it is because the variety is a late
one and the fruit has not yet matured.
The development of the persimmon, whether for orchard or orna-
mental purposes, has been retarded by the difficulty encountered hi
propagating and transplanting it. One grower has characterized it
as the only tree that he could not kill in his cultivated fields and the
only one that he could not make live in his garden. Failure in
transplanting is usually due to a lack of knowledge concerning the
characteristic root development of the persimmon. Under natural
conditions, the roots penetrate much deeper into the soil than those
of most other fruit trees, and unless great care is exercised when the
tree is taken up it is almost impossible to get more than a small
percentage of the root system, thus reducing the chance of making
the tree live when transplanted.
From tune to time valuable trees have been, discovered, cared for,
and even in some cases transplanted or propagated. Most of these
have been soon neglected or destroyed, until there are comparatively
few varieties of marked value available for general distribution.
Both De Soto and Jan do Laet when describing the ripe fruit of
the native persimmon call it a "delicious little plum," and John
Smith and other writers of the seventeenth century speak of it as a
plum with the flavor of an apricot. This use of the word "plum"
doubtless directed the attention of many people to the native species
of Prunus, which include our wild cherries and plums.
BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION.
The persimmon belongs to the ebony family (Ebenacege) and is
known to botanists as Diospyros virginiana. It is the only member
of the family which is indigenous to any extensive portion of this
country.
NATURAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE PERSIMMON.
Roughly speaking, the persimmon is indigenous to the south-
eastern quarter of the United States, being found in large numbers
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
in the fields and forests of that section. The more favored localities SI_
^ in Iowa and eastern Nebraska produce many fruits, but very
trees are found west of central Kansas. Scattering specimens
- Connecticut and on Long Island mark the present northeastern
limit of the species. A few trees in Rhode Island, New York, and
Michigan which produce fairly well indicate that the northern limit
of cultivation may be extended
whenever economic conditions (that
is, the value of the fruit for food or
of the tree for ornamental purposes)
seem to warrant.
The zone of greatest productivity
and adaptability, wherein appear
by far the largest number of prom-
ising types, extends from Maryland,
Virginia, and the Carolinas west-
ward through Missouri and Arkan-
sas. The persimmon thrives equally
well on the sands of the Coastal
Plain, the shales of the Allegheny
Mountains, the muck of the river-
bottom lands, and the chert of the
Ozarks.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP THE
PERSIMMON.
HABIT OF GROWTH.
Throughout the habitat of the
. persimmon there is a wide variation
I in the size and growth of the trees
J and in the form, size, color, and
number of seeds of the fruit. The
tree characters seem to indicate
{wo types, upright and drooping,
and these tree typos are closely
Allied with the fruit types.
^ When grown in the open, persim-
mon trees rarely reach a height of
50 feet. In a dense forest growth they sometimes reach 70 or 100
^ feet, but that is uncommon. The characteristic checking of the
3 bark of an old tree, which is shown in figure I, aids one to recognize
jthe species. The top of the tree is usually roundish or conical in
R form. Large trees are often somewhat irregular, owing to the
breaking of limbs by heavy crops of fruit; moreover, it is a character-
istic of productive trees to prune themselves by dropping many of the
fruit-bearing twigs. The branches are always spreading, often
FIG. 1. An old persimmon tree which shows
the characteristic checking of the bark.
233215
FARMERS' BULLETIN 685.
coming out almost at right angles to the trunk and then drooping
more or less, especially after the tree has borne a few crops.
The leaves are elliptical or slightly ovate in form, acuminate at the
apex, measuring from 3 to 6 inches in length and 1 to 3 inches in
width, with a short petiole. In color, they are a dark glossy green
on the upper surface and a grayish green underneath. Trees differ
markedly, however, in habits of growth, as is shown in figures 2, 3,
and 4.
FLOWERING HABIT.
The flowers resemble little four-lipped urns of wax, from one-fourth
to three-fourths of an inch in length, the color varying from a greenish
yellow to a milky
white. They are
borne on short stalks
and appear from the
last of April in the
extreme South until
the middle of June
at the northern limit
of the persimmon
habitat.
The trees are gen-
erally dioecious; that
is, the pollen-bearing
and fruit-producing
flowers are borne on
separate trees. The
pistillate or fruit-
producing flowers are
borne singly, while
the staminate or pol-
len - bearing flowers
are generally pro-
duced in threes. The
pollen is very light
and powdery, and
while it is generally distributed by the bees that frequent the trees
in great numbers during blossoming time it can also be carried to
great distances by the wind.
FRUIT CHARACTERS.
The fruit is a true berry, containing sometimes as many as eight
seeds in. its pale, translucent flesh. It varies in form from oblate to
oblong and in diameter from three-fourths of an inch to 2 inches,
"-*>*
FIG. 2. A persimmon tree of the upright type which produces large,
oblate fruits and is here used as a dooryard tree.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMOX.
There is a wide range in color, varying from yellow to pale orange
and even to a dark red, with many varietal markings, often blushed
and covered with a bluish bloom. When green, persimmons are gen-
erally very astringent and puckery, because of the large quantity of
tannin contained in the flesh, but when thoroughly mature and ripe
the flavor is rich and sweet, and the consistency varies between that
of a baked apple and a soft custard. The fruits of many late varieties
turn a rich dark red (
and partially dry on
the trees, somewhat
resembling dates in
appearance and fla-
vor.
POSSIBILITIES OF IM-
PROVEMENT.
The season of the
native persimmon is
probably longer than
that of any other wild
fruit, both locally and
over the country as a
whole. In many sec-
tions the earliest and
the latest varieties
may be found grow-
ing side by side, or
at least within a few
miles of each other.
The Bureau of Plant
Industry has records
for both early and
late varieties from the
southern part of Georgia and Florida. In the District of Columbia
there are some trees which ripen their fruit in August and others on
which it hangs until February.
Generally speaking, the best fruits are neither the earliest nor the -
latest, but rather those that ripen just before the beginning of the
tree's dormant season. The latest varieties are still immature when
the leaves fall or when they are killed by frost, and they must com-
plete the ripening process within themselves instead of drawing
nourishment from the tree until they have grown to maturity.
The largest as well as the best fruits are those that ripen about the
time the trees shed their leaves. The early varieties are nearly all
medium in size, and the late varieties which hang on until cold weather
OF SUBTROPICAL tK)*flCULTUf*
COLLEGE OF A3RICULTIH*
BERKELEY, CALIFOWK
FIG. 3. A persimmon tree of upright habit of growth which pro-
duces fruit of the pjriform type, ripening in midseason.
6
FARMERS' BULLETIN 685.
are generally small. Seedless fruits, as a rule, are smaller and earlier
than those with seeds produced on the same trees.
The wide variations shown by the fruit hi size, color, season of
maturity, and tendency to seedlessness, and by the trees hi size,
shape, and vegetative vigor indicate the possibility of greatly im-
proving the native persimmon. Up to the present time one essential
factor has been overlooked in all attempts at breeding better varieties.
That factor is the parentage of the male or pollen-bearing trees.
Without a knowledge of the characters represented in the male
parent there is no certainty as to the results of the crossing and no
possibility of the line breeding which is essential to the rapid develop-
ment of improved varieties. Definite efforts should be made in
breeding work to se-
cure pollen - bearing
trees of known par-
entage. They should
be selected from
among trees grown
from seed produced
on the most desirable
fruit-bearing trees.
PRESENT STATUS OF
THE NATIVE PER-
SIMMON.
Throughout the re-
gion where persim-
mons are found in
abundance the fruit
is considered as being
"good for dogs, hogs,
and 'possums." Oc-
casionally a family
is mentioned as hav-
ing lived for several
months upon the fruit
from a single large
tree. Twenty or thirty nurserymen are selling seedling trees for
ornamental planting and half a dozen others have selected named
varieties of special merit which they offer for the production of
fruit.
In some of the large cities and towns within the persunmon habitat,
the wild fruit can be purchased during the autumn and early winter
from the dealers who occupy the open stalls in the public markets.
A few enterprising growers adjacent to large cities have built up a
demand which they find themselves unable to supply.
FIG. 4. A persimmon tree which has a drooping habit of growth and
produces fruit of the oblong type.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON. 7
The methods of utilizing the persimmon are at present rather
limited. Fresh fruit is used in various ways in making a few forms
of bread or pone, in preparing certain homemade beverages and
sweetmeats, and as forage for the hogs and dogs which get most of
their living from the woods.
The object of this publication is to set forth the best methods of
propagating and cultivating persimmon trees, to call attention to the
many trees worthy of propagation, to indicate the food value of the
fruit, and to enumerate various ways in which persimmons may be
prepared.
PROPAGATION OF THE PERSIMMON.
As is the case with most tree fruits, the persimmon does not repro-
duce its varietal characteristics through the seed, and other methods
of propagation are, therefore, necessary to perpetuate desirable vari-
eties. Propagation of the persimmon by the methods commonly em-
ployed with tree fruits is more difficult than for such fruits as the
apple or the peach. The methods described below have been found
successful in actual practice.
SEEDAGE.
The seeds of the persimmon are scattered by mammals and birds
and in the natural sequence of events reach the ground in the fall or
winter without becoming dry. They are lightly covered with grass
or leaves and are subjected to the varying temperatures of winter,
always remaining moist. The following spring the seeds sprout as
soon as the soil becomes warm enough, provided that the conditions
accompanying the rise in temperature do not dry them unduly.
Seeds which fall under the trees are usually too much exposed to the
atmosphere and dry too much to admit of germination.
Seeds that are gathered for propagating purposes should be strati-
fied at once. If they are allowed to dry out it is often necessary to
soak them for two or three days before they are planted ; the water
being renewed each day at a boiling temperature.
The seed bed in which persimmon seedlings are grown should be
located on well-drained land where the soil is rather light and well
supplied with humus. The ground should be plowed deep with a
subsoil plow unless the subsoil is friable enough to permit the ready
penetration of the long taproots which characterize the growth of
persimmon seedlings.
The seed may be planted either in the fall or spring, after being
treated as described above. It is commonly planted in shallow drills
and lightly covered with soil to a depth of one-half inch or a little
more.
FARMERS' BULLETIN GPS.
ROOT CUTTINGS.
The roots of persimmon trees sprout readily when the top is re-
moved or when the main stem meets with serious injury. This is
illustrated in figure 5, which shows the development of sprouts on
the roots of a seedling tree two months after the removal of the top.
During this period the
seedling had been in
a propagating bed in
a greenhouse, under
artificial heat. This
illustration also offers
an explanation for the
occurrence of the large
clumps of similar trees
that are to be found
in many abandoned
fields. At some time
the original tree was
cut off near the surface
of the ground and the
roots sent up sprouts
which, being undis-
turbed, developed into
trees bearing similar
fruit.
Roots the size of a
lead pencil or larger
can be used in propa-
gating the persim-
mon. They should be
cut into pieces 6 or 8
inches long, the ends
FIG. 5. A 2-year-old seedling persimmon tree which has been grafted. Sealed with grafting
It has been in a propagating bed in a greenhouse under artificial "wax hot beeswax, Or
pitch, in order to pre-
vent the decay that
develops rapidly in the soft, spongy wood, and the cuttings should
then be buried over winter in sand or in a nursery row. They will
grow readily the following spring, provided the moisture supply is
plentiful until they become weh 1 established.
WOOD CUTTINGS.
Cuttings of the branches may be treated in much the same way as
root cuttings. Small twigs are unsuitable for purposes of propaga-
heat for two months. The sprouts on the roots show how easily
the roots may be used as a means of propagating the variety.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON. 9
tion (1) because they lack sufficient substance k> produce the
callus and' root formation and (2) because it is extremely difficult
to prevent the organisms of decay from entering the soft, porous,
1-year-old wood. The cuttings should be waxed or pitched at both
ends and buried until well callused and the roots have started.
They may then be planted in a nursery row and vegetative growth,
encouraged.
Wood 2 or 3 years old may be selected for cuttings, but care must
be exercised to procure good, strong buds. The cuttings may be
taken at any time after the trees become dormant in the fall and
may be placed in cold storage or in sand until wanted. -It is most
important, however, that the ends of the cuttings should be dipped
immediately into melted wax in order to exclude the air. If they
have been exposed for even a few hours they should be retrimmed
and waxed before being put in cold storage or sand.
Those who have trees bearing exceptionally fine persimmons will
find the different methods of grafting admirally adapted to top-
working the worthless trees about the place with the better varieties,
thus changing them to useful fruitfulness.
Top-worked, or grafted, portions of old trees will bear two or three
years earlier than trees which come from buds or grafts on 1 or 2
year old stocks. These seedling stocks, budded or grafted with
a selected variety, will bear one or two years earlier than those pro-
duced from cuttings.
The scions to be used in chip budding, cleft grafting, and whip
grafting should be cut during late winter." All scions should be kept
cool and moist until used. The budding and grafting should be
done as soon as the trees which are to be grafted start to grow.
Because of the similarity in the operations of budding and grafting
they are here treated together under the general heading of graftage.
The various methods which have been found to be best adapted to
the persimmon are here discussed.
SELECTION- OF SCION'S AND BUD STICKS.
When selecting scions or bud sticks care must be exercised, just as
when propagating by wood cuttings, to procure wood with strong,
well-developed buds. On twigs of the last season's growth the best
buds are generally near the base, where they are supported on more
mature wood than those near the tip. In wood more than a year
old, most of the buds near the tip have already produced branches,
thus making this portion of the twig unsuitable for use in budding
or grafting.
The method employed in budding persimmons largely determines
the character of the wood that should be selected as a source of buds.
2352 Bull. 68515 2
10
FARMERS ' BULLETIN 685.
For the common shield or T bud, the basal half of the new growth
is preferable because the bark is thinner than that on .older wood
and the buds fit closer and better than where wood with older and
thicker bark is used. Moreover, the buds near the base of the new
wood are better than those toward the tip, because the latter are so
irregular in outline that it is difficult to fit them closely to the stock.
When the chip-bud method is used it is essential that the bud
stick have sufficient body to allow the removal of the bud with a
clean, solid chip adhering thereto. A bud stick should never be
larger than the stock on which the buds are to be worked. If it is
too large in relation to the size of the stock which is to receive the
bud, the chip will be so broad and flat that it can not be properly
fitted into any notch which it is
possible to make in the stock.
For annular or patch budding,
the most satisfactory buds are
those taken from wood that is
2, 3, or even 4 years old. Such
buds are but lightly attached to
the wood and have a good body
of bark, which makes them easy
to handle and not liable to dry
out. Buds taken from near the
base of large, vigorous, new shoots
will also give good results.
The various methods of bud-
ding and grafting that have
FK.6.-The different steps in shield or T budding: proved satisfactory in propagat-
a, Cutting the bud; 6, preparing the stock; c, in- m cr the persimmon have been de-
serting the bud; d, tying. ., , . , ., . ,,. .
scribed in detail m publications
of the Department of Agriculture relating to other fruits and to nuts.
For convenience in the present connection, extracts from these pub-
lications are inserted below.
SHIELD OR "T" BUDDING. 1
The height at which buds are inserted [where small seedling stocks are used] varies
with the operator. In general, the nearer the ground the better. The cut for the
reception of the bud is made in the shape of a letter T. (Fig. 6, 6.) Usually the
crosscut is not quite at right angles with the body of the tree, and the stem to the T
starts at the crosscut and extends toward the root for an inch or more. The flaps of
bark caused by the intersection of the two cuts are slightly loosened with the ivory
heel of the budding knife, and the bud, grasped by the leaf stem as a handle, is placed
under the flaps and firmly pushed in place until its cut surface is entirely in contact
with the peeled body of the stock. (Fig. 6, c.) A ligature is then tightly drawn
about, above, and below the bud, to hold it in place until a imion shall be formed.
Corbett, L. C. The propagation of plants. Farmers' Bulletin 157, pp. 22-23.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
11
(Fig. 6, d.) Bands of raffia about 8 or 10 inches long make a most convenient tying
material. As soon as the buds have united with the stock the ligature should be cut,
in order to prevent girdling the stock. This done, the operation is complete until the
following spring, when all the trees in which the buds have "taken" should have the
top cut off just above the bud.
Shield budding may be done at any time when the trees are in
vigorous growth and when well-matured buds of the current season's
growth can be obtained. This period usually extends from July to
September. When budding seedlings it may sometimes be necessary
to delav the operation until the latter part of the season, in order that
the stock may develop to a satisfactory size; but when top-working
older trees by this method well-
developed buds may be handled
whenever the trees are in a vigor-
ous condition of growth. Figure 7
shows a branch of a young per-
simmon tree on which a shield
or T bud has made considerable
growth.
Some of the precautions which
it has been found important to
observe when propagating pecans
are equally applicable in the prop-
agation of persimmons. The
following directions for budding
pecans according to the various
methods arc therefore presented
here. 1
ANNULAR BUDDING.
FIG. 7. A shield or T bud after considerable growth
The process [of annular budding] is also
known as "ring" and "flute" budding.
It is performed during the midsummer months at such time as the bark is found to slip
(release) most readily. In some seasons this period may be very brief, lasting only a
few days, while in other years the time during which annular budding may be success-
fully performed extends over a period of several months. In the latitude of southern
Georgia it is not uncommon for this method to be successful from as early as May 10
until late in July or even in August.
Annular budding consists merely in transferring a ring of bark to which is attached
a bud of the desired variety from a bud stick 2 to the trunk or branch of another tree in
place of a similar ring of bark previously removed. Specially designed tools have
been devised for the purpose of cutting the rings. Two ordinary propagating knives
having single blades may be fastened together and made to answer the purpose,
although they are less liable to make uniform incisions. Cut a ring of bark from the
stock with one of the tools, slit it with a single-bladed knife, and lift from its bed or
"matrix," us it is technically called. Discard this bark and from the bud stick
i Reed, C. A. The pecan. Bureau of Plant Industry Bulletin 251, pp. 25-31.
* The bud stick is a branch cut from a tree of the variety to be propagated.
12
FARMERS' BULLETIN 685.
remove a similar ring, in the center of which is a dormant bud. The bark of the bud
stick should be slit on the side opposite the bud. Immediately place this ring in the
space left by removing the bark from the stock and wrap at once with waxed cloth,
taking care not to cover the bud (fig. 8).
PATCH BUDDING.
AYhcn the annular method is used it is obvious that the stock and scion must be of
nearly the same size. If the bud stick is slightly larger than the stock a portion of the
bark to which the bud is
attached may be cut away
so that the two ends of
the ring just meet around
the stock. If the bud stick
should be smaller than the
stock, a strip of bark on the
latter may be left in posi-
tion to complete the ring.
In actual practice, rings
which extend only partly
around the stock are most
commonly used. Such
process, however, is not
true annular budding, be-
cause any bark which ex-
tends only partly around
the stock ismerely apatch.
It is to this deviation from
the annular method of
budding that the term
"patch budding "has been
applied. A tool specially
designed for patch bud-
ding consists of four thin
steel blades fastened to-
gether in the form of a
rectangle, five-eighths of
an inch wide by 1 inch
long, and is used as a
punch.
A cut is made in the bark
of the bud stick about half
Ct C ''"B & n o /> ,/L_ an inch in width by three
times as long, in the cen-
ter of which is the bud.
The piece of bark so out-
lined is removed from the
bud stick and laid over
FIG. 8. Annular budding, a, Bud stick from which the bud has
been removed; b, the bud ready for insertion in the matrix of the
stock; c, the slock reidy to receive the bud; d, the bud after being
placed in posit ion and carefully wrapped; e, growth taking place, the
wrapping having been removed; /, growth from the bud supported
by being tied to the stock (<;) above the union. Note the scars above
the union, where the buds were removed hi order to direct the flow
of sap to the new bud.
that of the stock. Using
this as a pattern, incisiona
are then made around it
in the bark of the stock.
The pattern is then removed, the section of bark outlined in the stock is lifted,
and the bark from the bud stick is put in its place. Some varieties of the pecan are
more difficult to bud successfully than others; with such varieties the annular method,
or a near approarh to it, is generally most successful.
"With the average sorts, however, the tendency among the more experienced
nurserymen is much inclined to favor the patch method.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
13
The buds best suited to annular or patch budding are those in the axils of
the leaves at the base of the current season's growth. It is well worth the time
required to clip the leaves away, close to the buds, 10 days or 2 weeks before
the bud is wanted, for by so doing the wound will heal over before the bud is
needed; otherwise a serioils lessening of the vigor of the bud through evapora-
tion may take place.
CARE OF ANNULAR AND PATCH BUDS.
In annular budding the added ring of bark sometimes unites with the stock promptly,
permitting the upward flow of sap to proceed without much interference. When this
is the case the top should be carefully pruned back to such a degree as is necessary to
direct sufficient sap into the new bud to cause it to swell. This pruning should not
be done with too great severity, as an oversupply of sap is liable to accumulate under
the bark of the new bud and cause it to decay, or, as it is termed. " to drown " the bud.
If the tree is young and the
growth has been rapid, pre-
caution should be exercised
in cutting back the top, in
order not to expose the ten-
der bark to the heat of the
sun. A sufficient amount of
foliage should be left as a
protection from the hot sun.
If the supply of sap be lim-
ited, it will be well to cut
out all buds in the top of
the stock, as shown in figure
8. All dormant buds, both
above and below the new
bud, should be rubbed off
as soon as they begin to
swell. The wrapping about
the new bud must be cut as
soon as growth begins. As
the union of a bud with a
stock made by any method
of budding is at first merely
the uniting together of bark
and not of wood, it is neces-
sarily weak during the first
few months. To avoid dan-
ger of breaking out at the
bud, the new tops should be
provided with extra support.
For this purpose side stakes
a
'dormant" budding, a, The bud stick; 6, the
bud ready for insertion; c, the bud inserted in the matrix of the
stock; d, the bud securely tier! in place.
driven into the ground are
sometimes used, but these
are expensive and unneces- FlG - 9. Chip or
sary. By leaving a stub of
the original top 8 or 10 inches
long, entirely denuded of foliage (fig. 8), the new top may be quickly tied to it, and
when no longer needed the dead stub may be cut away close to the union.
CHIP BUDDING.
Propagation by chip budding is performed in the early spring or late in the dormant
period. Because of being done at this season it is also known as " dormant " budding.
DIVISION OF SUHiROPlCAl HOHTICULT
lEGE OF AGRICULTURE
14
FARMERS BULLETIN
With a sharp knife a downward cut is made below the bud on the bud stick to a depth
of perhaps one-eighth of an inch. Raising the knife to a point above the bud, a long
downward cut is made, which meets the lower end of the first cut, and the bud is
removed with a chip attached, as shown in figure 9. A similar chip is removed from
the stock, and the desired bud is put in its place. This should be carefully wrapped
with such material as will hold the cambium layers of the stock and the bud firmly
together on at least one side.
Subsequent treatment similar to that already described for annular and patch bud-
ding should be given young trees propagated in this summer.
Trees of the pecan species are difficult to propagate asexually ; that is, neither buds
nor scions "take" with the readiness of ordinary fruit trees. The inexperienced
FIG. 10. A chip bud on a branch after the bud
inserted had made considerable growth.
operator, therefore, must expect a very low
percentage of living buds as the result of his
first attempts. Skilled propagators, how-
ever, are now so successful that under favor-
able conditions the percentage of failures is
no longer a matter of consequence.
No attempt to bud pecans should be made
on rainy days, or in early mornings follow-
ing heavy dews. Some nurserymen even go
so far as to select their men for budding the
pecan, assigning those who perspire most
freely to other duties. Extremely hot days should be avoided, especially if accom-
panied by drying winds. Moderately cool, cloudy days without wind or rain are the
best for pecan budding.
FIG. 11. Method of using a bud protector on a
chip bud. The protector may be used in a
similar manner in all of the different forms
of budding. A, stock; B, B, waxed cloth
protectors; C, chip bud fitted into notch in
stock; D, protect or in position over the bud;
E, protector and bud wrapped and tied;
F, F, scars of buds removed from stock.
(Adapted from drawing in American Fruit
and Nut Journal, vol. 6, whole no. 94, p. 23.)
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
15
Figure 10 shows a persimmon chip bud which has made consider-
able growth.
PROTECTION OF BUDS.
A very satisfactory means of affording protection to buds inserted
by any of the foregoing methods is shown in figure 1 1 . These waxed
shields are intended as a substitute for the waxed strips previously
mentioned, and their preparation and use has been described as
follows :*
In making the waxed wrappers, old domestic from worn bed sheets or undergarments
may be used . Tear it into strips 2 feet long and 6 inches wide ; then fold it into squares
and dip it into a tin plate of hot, melted beeswax. The wax will strike through
instantly, and then the strips may be held up by one end and the surplus wax allowed
to drip back into the tin plate. When cool, the cloth may be torn into * * *
squares of proper size. No pressing or squeezing is necessary. The beeswax answers
the purpose in every way; its saves the buds, and that is the end in view. These
FIG. 12. Cleft graft: a, Stock being split by spe-
cial grafting tool; 6, scion ready for insertion;
c, scion in place ready for waxing.
wrappers may be left on the buds the
whole season. When the bud shoots are
an inch or so in length, the strings may
be unwound from so much of the wrap-
pers as cover the buds; but tie the upper
end of the wrapper, which is above the
bud, firmly to the projecting stub. The
eyelets 2 in the wrappers will open as the
bud shoots grow, and protection will be
afforded against hot suns and chilly
nights.
CLEFT GRAFTING. 3
This style of graft is particularly
adapted to large trees when for any
reason it becomes necessary to change
the variety. Branches too large to be worked by other methods can be cleft-
grafted.
A branch 1 or 1 inches in diameter is severed with a saw. Care should be taken
that the bark be not loosened from any portion of the stub. Split the exposed end
with a broad, thin chisel or grafting tool (fig. 12, a). Then with a wedge or the wedge-
shaped prong at the end of the grafting tool spread the cleft so that the scions (fig. 12, b)
may be inserted (fig. 12, c).
> American Fruit and Nut Journal, v. 6, no. 94, p. 22.
2 The eyelet referred to is the small hole in the center of the protector shown in figure 11.
a Corbett, L. C. The propagation of plants. Farmer's Bulletin 157, pp. 17-18.
FIG. 13. A cleft graft made on a small branch.
16
FABMEBS BULLETIN 685.
The scion should consist of a portion of the previous season's growth and should be
long enough to have two or three buds. The lower end of the scion, which is to be
inserted in the cleft, should be cut into the shape of a wedge, having the outer edge
thicker than the other. In general, it is a good plan to cut the scion so that the lowest
bud will come just at the top of this wedge, so that it will be near the top of the stock.
The importance of having an intimate connection between the growing tissues of both
scion and stock can not be too strongly emphasized, for upon this alone the success of
grafting depends. To
make this contact of the
growing portions doubly
certain, the scion is often
set at a slight angle with
the stock into which it is
inserted, in order to cause
the growing portions of
the two to cross.
After the scions have
been set the operation of
rleft grafting is completed
by covering all cut sur-
faces with a layer of graft-
ing wax.
Cleft grafting has
given satisfactory re-
sults with the per-
simmon, hoth on the
branches (fig. 13) and
at the crown (fig. 14).
WHIP GRAFTING. 1
Whip grafting is the
style almost universally
used in root grafting. It
has 1 ho ad vantage of being
well adapted to small
plants.
The graft is made by
cutting the stock off diag-
onally one long smooth
cut with a sharp knife, as
shown in figure 15, a.
Place the knife about one-
third of tho distance from
tho end of the cut surface,
at right angles to the cut,
and split the stock in the
direction of its long axis.
Cut the lower end of the
scion in like manner (fig.
15, h), and when the two parts are forced together, as shown in figure 15, c, the cut surfaces
will fit neatly together, and one will nearly cover the other if the scion and stock are of
Fig. 14. A cleft graft made at the crown, the soil which normally
covered the union having been removed in order to Bhow the parts
to better advantage.
i Corhett, L. 0. The propagation of plants. Farmers' Bulletin 157, pp. 18*19.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
17
the same size. A difference in diameter of the two parts to be united may be disre-
garded unless it be too great. After the scion and stock have been locked together, as
shown in figure 15, c, they should be wrapped with five or six turns of waxed cotton
to hold the parts firmly together.
While top grafting may be done in this way (fig. 16), it is in root grafting that the
whip graft finds its distinctive field. When the roots are cut into lengths of 2 to 5 or 6
inches to be used as stocks, the operation is known as piece-root grafting. Sometimes
the entire root is used.
In ordinary propagation by means of whip grafts, the scion is cut with about three
buds, and the stock is naarly as long as the scion. The graft is so planted as to bring^
the union of stock and scion not very far below the surface of the ground.
CARE OF WHIP GRAFTS. 1
" When grafted by the whip-graft method the young trees will require little subse-
quent attention other than pruning and ordinary cultivation. When the root is that
of a very young tree there will be no danger
of the supply of plant food being such as to
induce a growth of top that is too rapid, as is
frequently the case with cleft grafts, espe-
cially in the tops of old trees. While tempo-
rary staking as a support to the union is not
necessary, in numerous cases stakes will be
highly essential to insure erect'growth. The
moisture of the ground causes the wrapping
material to decay in the course of a few
weeks, and it is therefore not necessary to
cut the bands.
The operation of grafting most
fruits is generally successful if per-
formed in the spring when the trees
are still dormant, or even after
growth has started slightly, provided
the scions are entirely dormant. In
the case of the persimmon, however,
much more satisfactory results appear to be obtained when the graft-
ing is delayed until the trees have definitely started into new growth.
The scions must be kept dormant.
In all of the various methods of budding and grafting the per-
simmon it is of the utmost importance that the cut surfaces of both
bark and wood be protected with as little delay as possible from
chemical change due to exposure to the air. Protection is afforded
by covering the wounds with grafting wax, waxed cloth, or similar
devices.
STOCKS AND NURSERY TREES.
The stocks in the nursery row should stand at least 6 inches apart,
to afford space for root development and to give the workmen plenty
of room when the trees are budded or grafted. The young trees
FIG. 15. Whip graft: a, Stock prepared; 6,
scion prepared; c, stock and sciori fitted
together ready for tying.
Reed, C. A. The pecan. Bureau of Plant Industry Bulletin 251, p. 25.
18
FARMEBS BULLETIN 685.
in the nursery should receive fair cultivation, and the roots should
be pruned each year with a tree digger or spade in order to keep the
root system small enough to be handled with ease when the trees are
dug. The 2-year-old roots are always preferable for stocks. Older
roots which are small enough to be easily handled are likely to be
FIG. 16. A whip graft after at-
taining considerable growth.
stunted, and 1 -year-
old roots must be very
thrifty to produce the
desired growth in the
graft.
FIG. 17. Persimmon trees after making one season's growth in the
nursery. These trees were propagated by grafting on seedling
stocks. The bundle on the left is the Golden Gem variety; on the
right, the Miller. The largest trees are 4 to 5 feet tall. The dif-
ference in the size of the trees in the two bundles is due to the differ-
ence in the natural vigor of growth of these two sorts.
Trees which have
been produced under
conditions favorable
for development may
be planted in their
permanent location after they have made one season's growth in the
nursery. Some varieties, however, are much more vigorous than others.
It may be advisable to grow the weaker sorts in the nursery for two years
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON. 19
before transplanting them. Figure 17 shows two varieties of grafted
persimmon trees that have made one season's growth in the nursery.
On account of the very long taproot which persimmon trees ha-
bitually develop, particularly when propagated on seedling stocks,
much care must be exercised to avoid undue injury to the root sys-
tems when the trees are dug from the nursery. Moreover, because
of the deep-rooting habits of these trees a deep soil should be selected
for their permanent location.
CULTIVATION OF THE PERSIMMON.
The transplanting of the young trees may be done at any time
during the dormant period, from late autumn to early spring, when
the roots can be protected from freezing temperatures and evapora-
tion and when the soil is in a suitable condition for handling. If the
trees have been properly taken up without undue injury to the
roots, the tops will need little or no pruning. If, on the other hand,
the root systems have been severely reduced, the tops should be
headed back until the total length of branches and trunks corre-
sponds in a general way to the total length of the main roots. Wounds
on both tops and roots should be waxed as soon as made.
Young persimmon trees have large, deep root systems and should
be planted 2 or 3 inches deeper in the orchard than they were in the
nursery row. In setting them out the soil should be packed thor-
oughly around the roots. A round-pointed wooden tamp is a very
serviceable tool with which to make the earth compact as the hole
is filled up. The planting plan varies with the type of tree desired.
If it seems desirable to grow low-headed trees with the expectation
of producing large fruit that can be readily picked by hand, the per-
manent trees should be placed at least 16 or, better still, 20 feet
apart each way. If, however, a large bulk of fruit is desired as stock
feed to be scraped from the ground or picked up by animals, a fair
degree of success may be expected if the trees are planted 10 feet
apart each way.
TILLAGE.
Probably the persimmon can be more successfully intercropped
than any other fruit tree, owing to the depth of its root system.
Blackberries, dewberries, strawberries, and vegetables thrive very
well among persimmons until the shade becomes too dense. When
the trees shade the ground, it is best to seed down the orchard if it
is to be used as a run for chickens, calves, pigs, or other animals and
the fruit used as stock feed. If it is planned to produce fruit for
market purposes, however, the same cultivation should be given the
ground as in a commercial orchard of peach or other fruit trees.
WOK* Of SBMWWl *> m
COOK' CULTUR
BULLETIN 685.
The pruning of the persimmon varies with the variety. There is
a tendency for the tree to prune itself, as many of the fruit-hoaring
twigs die and drop off with their fruit, thus making the natural
open growth of the trees still more open and reducing to a mini muni
the necessity for pruning. There are two points, however, which
should be borne in mind: (1) The upright tendency of some of the
most vigorous varieties should be checked by pinching off the tender
growing tips as they get out of reach, and (2) those trees that do not
prune themselves sufficiently to keep the top well open should be
thinned by removing entire limbs either main or secondary. This
practice is preferable to opening the tops by thinning out the small
branches and thus leaving the larger limbs bare for a considerable
portion of then 1 length. Thinning admits light and air, and at the
same time a stronger vegetative growth is induced ; the result is that
the size of the fruit is kept uniform and the crops are made more
regular by reducing the tendency to overbear on alternate years.
All wounds should be painted or otherwise covered as soon as made,
in order to prevent the wood from drying or dying back and decay
from entering the body of the trees.
DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS.
The persimmon is exceptionally free from the attacks of diseases
and insect pests. Probably the most important of the insect ene-
mies of the persimmon' is the hickory twig girdler. The following
brief account of the life history and habits of this insect, prepared
for this bulletin by the Bureau of Entomology, may be of interest to
those who anticipate growing the persimmon :
The hickory twig girdler, Ondderes cingulata Say, makes its appearance about the
middle of August and may be found until the first of October. It begins depositing
its eggs about the latter part of August and continues the process well into October..
The eggs hatch in from seven to nine days after deposition, and the young larva begins
to feed on the inner bark and wood at the point where the egg was inserted beneath
the bark. As the larva increases in size it continues to feed on the wood, going deeper
into the twig, and by the time its full growth has been attained it often completely
hollows out the twig for some little distance from the point where it began work.
Some of the larvae attain their full growth and begin transformation to pupae about
the first of August. Others do not make this change until near the middle of Sep-
tember. The pupal stage lasts from 10 to 14 days, when the insects transform to
adults and emerge from the twigs where they have spent their lives. Several days
pass before they begin laying their eggs in the small limbs and twigs.
The injury caused by this insect occurs in the process of oviposition. The adult
gnaws a small hole in the bark, usually just above or just below a bud, and the egg
is inserted benedth the bark by means of the ovipositor. Several eggs are usually
deposited in a twig in this manner, and the insect then begins girdling the twig beneath
the point of oviposition by gnawing out small pieces of the bark. A ring is thus made
around the twig, perhaps a third of the way through, weakening it to such an extent
that it is broken off by the wind during the winter or the following spring. The
trees are often severely injured by having the young growth pruned off in this manner.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON.
21
In order to control this insect the twigs should be picked up from the ground in
June or early July. All twigs which are found at this time have been girdled and
broken from the tree and should be collected and burned in order to destroy the
insects which are inside them.
USES OF THE PERSIMMON TREE.
The largest purchases of persimmon wood are made by the manu-
facturers of cotton-mill supplies, who use the timber in making
bobbins. The wood is well suited for this work, as it is strong,
comparatively light, hard, elastic, and close grained, taking a high
polish. Shoe lasts are also made to some extent from persimmon
wood.
The tree has some value for shade and ornamental purposes. Con-
cerning this use of the native persimmon Mr. F. L. Mulford, land-
scape gardener of the Department of Agriculture, writes as follows:
As an ornamental for lawns the persimmon compares favorably with any of the
shade trees used on private grounds, provided that it does not overhang a sidewalk,
where the dropping of fruits would be objectionable. The broad, glossy leaves on
the gracefully drooping branches give a dense shade from early in the spring until
the autumn is well advanced.
In the early summer the little waxlike flowers fill the air with a delicious fragrance,
somewhat resembling that of the calla lily. When the fruit begins to mature, yel-
lowish and golden clusters appear among the dark-green leaves and add to the beauty
of the tree until they fall. Some of the later varieties are ornamental after the
leaves have fallen and even until well into the winter.
USES OF THE PERSIMMON FRUIT.
The only fruit which equals the persimmon in food value is the
date. This is shown by the analyses presented in Table I.
TABLE I. Comparative analyses of fresh fruits, showing their food values in percentages
of the weight of the fruit. 1
Fruit.
Total
solids.
Ash.
Protein.
Sugars.
Crude
fiber.
Per cent.
13.65
13.59
22.30
15.23
it 06. fid
20.13
'21.83
13.87
2 10. 60
16.97
2 35. 17
15.14
13.79
9.48
Per cent.
0.28
.48
.65
.72
4 1.20
.57
.53
.43
.40
.31
.78
.61
.49
.60
Ptr cent.
0.69
.51
.81
.51
5 1.48
1.34
.59
.48
.70
.36
.88
.40
.53
.97
Per cent.
10.26
4.44
11.72
6.38
56.59
15.51
17. 11
15.91
65.90
8.26
9 31. 74
3.56
3.95
5.36
PIT cent.
0.96
5.21
.62
4.57
'3.80
3.60
' "3." 60
4.30
1.43
4.34
5.90
1.51
Currants
Dates -.
i.r rapes ^ - -
Peaches 7
Pears
Persimmons ">
i Data, with exceptions as noted, from Bureau of Chemistry Bulletin 66, pp. 41-4L 1 .
Average of 11 analyses. See "Chemistry and ripening of the date," Arizona Agricultural Experiment
rition and nutritive value of food," Farmers' Bulletin 142, p. 18.
Adapted from the two publications mentioned in footnotes 3 and 4.
Fats and carbohydrates.
'See "Use of fruit as food," Farmers' Bulletin 293, p. 14.
8 See "The American persimmon," Indiana Experiment Station Bulletin 60 (1896), p. 52.
10 Avera^fof^analyses in " Tha American persimmon," Indiana Experiment Station Bulletin 60 (1896).
22 FABMERS' BULLETIN 685.
Probably the most common use of the fruit is as feed for hogs. As
a rule, the hogs are merely turned loose in lots where persimmon
trees have come up naturally. Some, however, who appreciate the
value of this fruit as stock feed have set out orchards in order to
provide a definite supply for this purpose. If varieties are selected
which ripen in a continuous sequence, the fruit will, in some sections,
furnish forage for hogs from the last of August until early winter. A
small area devoted to persimmons can thus be made a valuable asset
for any general farm located in a persimmon district which includes
hogs among its stock.
The persimmon fruits intended for shipment should, to avoid
bruising, be carefully hand picked while still quite firm, that is, just
as the flesh begins to soften. Fruits which can be delivered direct
to the consumer should not be picked until fully mature and should
also be handled with great care. Fruit of^the later varieties, espe-
cially those of the oblong type, often hang on the trees for weeks,
drying to about the consistency of the commercial date.
Quart and pint size berry boxes are commonly used when packing
the fruit for market, the baskets being handled in the ordinary straw-
berry crates. Larger units would result in bruising the softer fruits
and are therefore not advisable. Crates in which the individual
fruits are placed in separate compartments are suggested for shipping
the better grades of persimmons, and it is believed that a trade which
will fully repay the expense and trouble of this method of handling
can be built up in any town of moderate size. Persimmons which
are placed in storage should be packed in egg crates or similar con-
tainers that hold the fruits separate.
RECIPES FOR USING PERSIMMONS.
Before the advent of the white man, the Indians mixed the pulp
of this fruit with crushed corn and made it into a kind of bread.
Now, there are many ways in which the fruit can be used, but the
different methods are not well known, and many people with fine
trees in their possession are allowing the fruit to waste because they
do not realize its value. The dissemination of knowledge regarding
the use of the persimmon in preparing very palatable food products
should result in much wider use of the fruit. To this end a number
of recipes are included in this publication.
Since heat makes the astringency of the persimmon more apparent,
it is always well to add one-half teaspoonful of baking soda (bicar-
bonate of soda) to each cupful of persimmon pulp in all recipes
where the fruit is subjected to heat. Although it has been proved by
experiment that the soda may be omitted if the fruit is entirely
free from astringency, it is better to use it until one is sure of the
quality of the persimmon pulp.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON. 23
PERSIMMON BREAD.
1 cup of persimmon pulp. Yeast.
1 cup of water. Shortening.
\ teaspoonful of soda. Flour to make a stiff dough.
Set to rise, mold, and bake like other bread.
PERSIMMON CRUMPETS.
Take 1 pint of the sponge of persimm'on bread which has been set over night, add one
egg and enough milk to make a thin batter, set to rise for one hour, then bake on a hot
griddle like griddlecakes. Serve hot with butter or sirup.
PERSIMMON GRIDDLECAKES.
1 cup of persimmon pulp. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
1 egg. \ teaspoonful of soda.
1 cup of flour. Milk to make a thin batter.
Bake and serve as above.
PERSIMMON-PEANUT GRIDDLECAKES.
1 cup of persimmon pulp. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
1 tablespoonful of peanut butter. \ teaspoonful of soda.
1 egg. Milk to make a thin batter.
1 cup of flour.
Bake and serve as above.
PERSIMMON-PEANUT MUFFINS (A GOOD RECIPE FOR CAMPERS).
\ cup of persimmon pulp. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
1 tablespoonful of peanut butter. \ teaspoonful of soda.
1 cup of flour.
Press or cut in pats \ inch thick and bake in a quick oven.
COFFEE FRUIT CAKE.
Boil together 1 cup of molasses and \\ cups of minced dried persimmons for five
minutes. Cream 1 cup of sugar, \ cup of butter and 1 egg, and add to the above.
Stir in three-fourths of a cup of strong coffee and place on a warm stove. Add 2 cups
of flour; \\ teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spice; \\ teaspoonfuls of a phosphate baking
powder, or if preferred, 1 teaspoonful of baking powder and \ teaspoonful of soda.
Bake in a moderate or slow oven 40 minutes to 1 hour.
PERSIMMON CAKE.
1 cup of persimmon pulp. 1 cup of flour.
% cup of sugar. 1 teaspoonful of baking powder.
I e gg teaspoonful of soda.
Butter of size of a walnut.
Bake 40 minutes in a moderate oven. For a soft pudding leave out the eggs. For
a custard leave out the flour and the baking powder.
PERSIMMON PUDDING (CAKE OR PONE). 1
1 pint of fine persimmon pulp. 3 cups of flour.
1 cup of sugar. 1 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon.
1 quart of sweet milk. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.
The American persimmon. Indiana Experiment Station Bulletin 60, pp. 43-54, 189C.
24 FARMERS' BULLETIN 685.
PRESERVED PERSIMMON PULP.
Place equal amounts of persimmon pulp and sugar in glass or earthenware jars or in
coated sanitary cans. (Never use cans of uncoated tin for persimmons.) Mix
thoroughly and set in a cool, light place. Stir occasionally until the air is removed
and seal with paraffin or waxed paper. The cans may be heated over a slow fire,
just enough to drive out the air, and should be sealed at once.
PRESERVED WHOLE PERSIMMONS.
Put a thin layer of sugar in the bottom of a jar; then a layer of whole ripe persim-
mons, then a layer of sugar; and so on until the jar is full. The sugar will soon dis-
solve and form a sirup. Press the upper fruits down under the sirup or add more
sirup to the jars. Seal and store until used. The sirup may be drained off and
the, fruits served like dates, which they will resemble very much in both appear-
ance and flavor.
PERSIMMON LEATHER.
Spread a thin layer of ripe persimmon pulp on waxed paper or on a large platter.
Dry in the sun, in a fruit evaporator, or in the oven of a stove, leaving the oven doors
open. Remove the seeds. Add another layer of pulp, and repeat until the leather
is of a thickness to handle easily. This may be diced or minced and used instead of
raisins or citron in fruit cakes, cookies, or puddings.
PERSIMMON ICE CREAM.
2 cups of persimmon pulp. 1 cup of thick, sweet cream.
Beat together thoroughly and freeze like ordinary ice cream. The fruit must be
thoroughly ripe and nonastringent.
PERSIMMON FRUIT ICE.
2 cups of persimmon pulp. 1 cup of sugar.
Beat to a creamy pulp and freeze.
PERSIMMON TAFFY.
Two cups of the sirup from the preserved whole persimmons. Add 1 cup of sugar
and cook until it forms a hard ball in water. Pour on a buttered platter and pull.
Cut in sticks and squares.
PERSIMMON FUDGE.
2 cups of persimmon pulp. 2 cups of sugar.
Cook over a slow fire, stirring occasionally, until graining begins. Add 1 tea-
spoonful of baking soda and stir over the fire until quite stiff. Spread on buttered
platter or paraffin paper.
SELECTED AND CULTIVATED NAMED VARIETIES.
The native persimmon varieties that have thus far received names
and been disseminated for cultivation have originated as chance
seedlings', being brought into cultivation* from the wild state. With
few exceptions, the fruits of these varieties are of the oblate type.
Brief descriptions of the fruit of some of the better known varieties
follow.
THE NATIVE PERSIMMON. 25
DESCRIPTIONS OF VARIETIES.
Burrier. Origin, central Kentucky, where it ripens rather early; form, oblate;
size, medium; color, yellow; practically seedless; flesh, soft; quality, very good.
Boone (Daniel Boone). Origin, Indiana, where it ripens during October and
November; form, roundish oblate; size, medium; color, yellow, with a dull
blush in the sun; skin, rather tough; seeds, numerous; flavor, sweet but not rich;
quality, good.
Delmas. Origin, Scranton, Miss., where it ripens during October and early Novem-
ber; form, roundish oblate; size, medium to large; color, reddish yellow; skin,
thin and tough; seeds, numerous; flavor, sweet and rich; quality, very good.
Early Bearing. Introduced from Cartersburg, Ind., where it ripens early in Octo-
ber; form, round ovate; size, medium; color, dull yellow; quality, good.
Early Golden. Origin, Illinois, where it ripens in September; form, oblongj'size,
medium to large; color, yellow; skin, thin; seeds, few; flavor, sweet; quality,
very good .
Golden Gem. Introduced from Borden, Ind., where it ripens from August to
October; form, roundish oblong; size, medium to large; color, dark orange to red;
seeds, few; flavor, rich and sweet; quality, good.
Hicks. Origin, Washington County, Ind., where it ripens in October; form, roundish
oblate; size, medium to large; color, dark red; skin, thin and tender; seeds, few;
flavor, rich; quality, very good.
Josephine (American Honey, Honey). Origin near Bluffton, Mo., where it ripens
in September; form, roundish oblate; size, medium; color, bright yellow, changing
to pale translucent; skin, tough; seeds, few; flavor, sweet and rich; quality, good.
Kansas. Introduced from Missouri, where it ripens in September; form, roundish
oblate; size, rather large; color, yellow splashed with red; flavor, rich; quality,
very good.
Miller. Origin, Jackson County, Mo., where it ripens in September; form, roundish
oblate; size, large; color, reddish yellow, translucent; skin, tough; seeds, rather
numerous; flavor, sweet; quality, good.
Ruby (Little's Ruby). Introduced from Cartersburg, Ind., where it ripens during
September and for some time later; form, roundish oblate; size, small to medium;
color, yellowish red, shading to deep red; skin, tender; seeds, few; flavor, sweet;
quality, very good.
Shoto. Introduced from Danville, Ind., where itripens during October; form, oblong
ovate; size, large; color, dull yellow, blushed in the sun; skin, rather tough;
seeds, few; quality, very good.
Smeech. Introduced from Pennsylvania,, where it ripens during October and No-
vember; form, roundish oblate; size, medium; color, dull yellow, splashed with
red; flavor, rich and sweet; quality, very good.
233215
BERKELEY,
PUBLICATIONS OF UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
RELATING TO FRUIT GROWING, ETC.
AVAILABLE FOR FREE DISTRIBUTION.
Grape Diseases on the Pacific Coast. By Xewton B. Pierce. Pp. 14, figs. 3. 1895.
(Farmers' Bulletin 30.)
The Apple and How to Grow It. By G. B. Brackett. Pp. 32, figs. 10! 1909.
(Farmers' Bulletin 113.)
Pineapple Growing. By Peter H. Rolfs. Pp. 47, figs. 4. 1901. (Farmers' Bulletin
140)
The Home Fruit Garden: Preparation and Care. By L. C. Corbett. Pp. 16, figs. 6.
1905. (Farmers' Bulletin 154.)
Cranberry Culture. By L. C. Corbett. Pp. 20, figs. 12. 1903. (Farmers' Bulletin
176.)
Pruning. By L. C. Corbett. Pp. 39, figs. 25. 1903. (Farmers' Bulletin 181.)
Strawberries. By L. C. Corbett. Pp. 24, figs. 15. 1904. (Farmers' Bulletin 198.)
Canned Fruit, Preserves, and Jellies: Household Methods of Preparation. By Maria
Parloa.. Pp. 31, figs. 5. 1905. (Farmers' Bulletin 203.)
Raspberries. By L. C. Corbett. Pp. 37, figs. 25. 1905. (Farmers' Bulletin 213.) -
Fungous Diseases of the Cranberry. By C. L. Shear. Pp. 16, figs. 11. 1905.
(Farmers' Bulletin 221.)
Fungicides and Their Use in Preventing Diseases of Fruits. By M. B. Waite. Pp. 32,
figs. 17. 1906. (Farmers' Bulletin 243.)
Use of Fruit as Food. By C. F. Langworthy. Pp. 38, 1 fig. 1907. (Farmers' Bul-
letin 293.)
The Protection of Orchards in the Pacific Northwest from Spring Frosts by Means of
Fires and Smudges. By P. J. O'Gara. Pp. 24, figs. 11. 1910. (Farmers'
Bulletin 401.)
Irrigation of Orchards. By Samuel Fortier. Pp. 36, figs. 32. 1910. (Farmers'
Bulletin 404.)
Canning Peaches on the Farm. By H. P. Gould and \V. F. Fletcher. Pp. 26, figs. 14.
1910. (Farmers' Bulletin 426.)
Spraying Peaches for the Control of Brown-Rot, Scab, and Curculio. By W. M. Scott
and A. L. Quaintance. Pp. 40, figs. 14. 1911. (Farmers' Bulletin 440.)
Grape Propagation, Pruning, and Training. By George C. Husmann. Pp. 29, figs. 30.
1911. (Farmers' Bulletin 471.)
The Pear and How to Grow It. By G. B. Brackett. Pp. 31, figs. 30. 1915. (Farmers'
Bulletin 482.)
The Profitable Management of the Small Apple Orchard on the General Farm. By
M. C. Burritt. Pp. 22, figs. 8. 1915. (Farmers' Bulletin 491.)
The More Important Insect and Fungous Enemies of the Fruit and Foliage of
the Apple. By A. L. Quaintance and W. M. Scott. Pp. 48, figs. 21. 1912.
(Farmers' Bulletin 492.)
-Sites, Soils, and Varieties for Citrus Groves in the Gulf States. By P. H. Rolfs. Pp.
15. 1913. (Farmers' Bulletin 538.)
Propagation of Citrus Trees in the Gulf States. By P. H.Rolfs. Pp. 16, figs. 9. 1913.
(Farmers' Bulletin 539.)
Culture, Fertilization, and Frost Protection of Citrus Groves in the Gulf States. By
P. H. Rolfs. Pp. 20, figs. 3. 1913. (Farmers' Bulletin 542.)
Growing Peaches: Sites, Propagation, Planting, Tillage, and Maintenance of Soil
Fertility. By H. P. Gould. Pp. 24, figs. 8. 1915. (Fanners' Bulletin 631.)
Growing Peaches: Pruning, Renewal of Tops, Thinning, Interplanted Crops, and
Special Practices. By H. P. Gould. Pp. 23, figs. 19. 1915. (Farmers^ Bulle-
tin 632.)
DIVISION OF SUBTROPICAL
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES
THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below
*
NOv
Form L-9-15rw-3,'34
.
oV f
...
Ut]
re' Hi
. 15
5, pis.
aeSov
of
,18,
I. 64, pi
cts.
aer.
ice 15 c^
hy H.
L) Pri(
U^IVERSKL'Y of CALIFORNIA
AT
Gay lord Bros.
Makers
Syracuse, N. Y.
PAT. JAN. 2 1,1908
ST
UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY
