The natural history of a highland parish, Ardclach, Nairnshire

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MRS. HAROLD HUNTER

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THE NATURAL HISTORY OF A HIGHLAND PARISH.

THE

OF A

I{IGHLAND PARISH

(ARDCLACH, NAIRNSHIRE).

BY ROBERT THOMSON.

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NAIRN: j 4fc.

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED B^ljGEORGE BAIN, 'LEOPOLD STREET.

LIBRARY

757744

UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO

CONTENTS.

Page,

INTRODUCTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . i.

CHAPTER I.— THE FLORA 1

General Aspect of the Parish — Spring Time.

CHAPTER II.— THE FLORA (Continued) . . . . 17

Early Summer — Midsummer.

CHAPTER III.— THE FLORA (Continued) . . . . 53

Autumn— The Ferns— The Grasses— The Mosses-
Fungi.

CHAPTER IV.— THE FAUNA . . 81

Mammalia, Aves et Reptilia.

CHAPTER V. — INSECT LIFE . . . . . . . . 131

CHAPTER VI. — PLACE-NAMES OF ARDCLACH . . . . 152

CHAPTER VII. — GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE

PARISH 195

The Bell Tower— The Old Mill of Remore— Traditions
— Cock Fighting — The Burying Ground — Lochindorbh
— The Princess Stone — Callum Beg.

APPENDIX . . . . . . . . . . . . 265

A List of Plants found in the Parish of Ardclach— A
List of the Macro-Lepidoptera found in the Parish of
Ardclach — Systematic List of Flies — Inscriptions in
Churchyard of Ardclach.

INDEX.

THE PRINCESS STONE.

INTRODUCTORY.

DURING the last few years of my schoolboy life, I and a
companion, David Moir, became deeply interested in the
truths of Astronomy as presented to us in our ordinary text-
books. As the schoolmaster himself had a decided favour
for this branch of science, he occasionally gave us a persual
of an advanced work on this subject from his own library,
In school he even allowed us to spend an hour or two daily
in the practical application of the knowledge thus acquired.
It was, therefore, with no small degree of pleasure mingled
with some pride, that we devoted ourselves for a few months
to the construction of large diagrams in colour, to illustrate
the plan and various effects of the heavenly bodies. From
an artistic point of view our productions were fairly creditable,
and the foundation thus laid proved greatly helpful to me
when extending my knowledge in this department.

After completing about a dozen sheets, we longed for a
telescopic view of the orbs themselves, and cherished the hope
•of being considered real astronomers by our schoolfellows.
Owing to the cost, a suitable instrument was hopelessly
beyond the reach of our united means, and our parents,
though indulgent above many, were neither able nor willing
to gratify such an ambitious desire. As the result of long
and careful consideration, we boldly resolved to attempt the

ii. INTRODUCTORY.

construction of a telescope for ourselves. Having each a
mechanical turn of mind, we managed, with great care and
at some little expense, to fit up a small turning-lathe at our
respective homes, and were soon busy grinding lenses for our
grand project. These were, of course, rather imperfect, and
showed the same defects with which the early makers had to-
contend when they combined their handiwork for similar
purposes. The greater their magnifying power the more they
refracted the light of the celestial bodies, and tinged the
margins with all the colours of the rainbow. By and bye,
we ascertained that second-hand glasses could be had very
cheap from a professional instrument-maker in Aberdeen, and
accordingly we stopped grinding and replaced our own pro-
ductions with articles in every respect more satisfactory.
With a thirty-inch acromatic field glass, somewhat dimmed
with mildew, and a half -inch eye piece, I saw the Rings of
Saturn, Jupiter's Moons, and the Phases of Venus with some
degree of complacency. The ordinary Man in the Moon, too,
had to give place to mountains, valleys and plains all over the
surface. On the 6th December 1882, 1 followed with great
distinctness the Transit of Venus across the sun's disc, and
enjoyed a sight which no one now living will ever see again.

Of the sixty-five British butterflies, from seventeen to-
twenty might be expected to occur in any one locality. With
the exception of Pieris Brassica, they are all comparatively
harmless. For this reason the country people entertain no
feelings of hostility towards them, and generally they are
great favourites wherever they occur. Among our natives,
none are gaudy, but everyone is chaste and pretty. At first
they appeared to me, as to the uninitiated, to be simply
members of one great family, and only divided into septs
according to their colours — red, white, blue, or dark brown.

INTRODUCTORY. 111.

To the former belongs the brilliant Little Copper (Chryso-
phanus Phlseas,) so well known to everybody who takes a walk
by the field or riverside. It was this insect which so much
attracted my attention many, many years ago, that I decided
to turn Entomologist. It is, indeed, a beautiful creature, for
a more intimate acquaintance has only served to intensify my
early admiration. By a succession of broods, it adorns the
woods and moorlands for a great part of the year with its
bright coppery-red wings, dotted here and there with black
spots. During my first season I collected about a dozen
species, and in order to identify them I procured a copy of
Stainton's Manual of British Butterflies and Moths, but my
progress in nomenclature was for some months rather slow.

Next year, 1857, I accepted a kind of locum tenens on the
coast of Kincardine. During the summer months I was a
frequent visitor to the seaside. Wandering about one day,
net in hand, at the foot of the " heughs," I came across a
pretty little butterfly with brown wings dotted with white in
the centre. It was flitting about in considerable numbers
over a grassy slope which ran down to the water's edge, and
appeared to be very fond of resting from time to time on the
flowers of the Rag Weed (Senecio Jacoboea). My find on
that occasion was easily identified. According to Stainton's
Manual the insect turned out to be Polyommatus Artaxerxes
— a Northern species of very rare occurrence in this country.
In the hope of obtaining a few Southern butterflies, by
exchange, I sent a short paragraph to that effect to the
Entomologist's weekly "Intelligencer." But the result was
entirely beyond what I had expected. For more than a
fortnight letters of inquiry and boxes containing insects in
advance came pouring on me at the rate of about a dozen
daily. In all, the number reaching me amounted to one

iv. INTRODUCTORY.

hundred and fifty, the great majority from clergymen of
the Church of England and young entomologists whose note-
paper bore monograms, crests or coats of arms. I was now on
the horns of a dilemma — the commodity I offered was flying
stock, and I had not in my possession even a leg or a wing
for the various applicants. Well, in the circumstances I did
my best, but that was not all I could have desired.

While this correspondence was going on, the local post-
runner was making frequent inquiries at my neighbours as to
what good luck had come the way of the young schoolmaster.
Some said one thing, and some another, but all were convinced
that I had fallen heir to a big fortune in some shape or other.
None ever dreamed of the true explanation.

In 1858, 1 was appointed Free Church teacher in the parish
of Cawdor. Among the natives, my place was known as the
Culcharry School, after the name of the croft on which the
buildings were erected. Having no idea of Gaelic at the
time, the name grated rather unpleasantly on my ear, and I
decided, on the suggestion of a London gentleman born in the
district, to call my new home Viewhill. Accordingly this was
the address which appeared after my name in the " List of
British Entomologists" for the following year. In course of
time a letter came to me one day from the Kev. Dr Gordon of
Birnie, asking about some local insects. I replied, and the-
correspondence thus begun, continued intermittently until
within a short time of his death. By and bye, the minister,
in a letter to his friend Mr Stables, factor at Cawdor Castle,
happened to mention my name as an authority on some point
of local Natural History, and was informed that there was no
such person or place in the parish. In reply, Dr Gordon
stated that as he had received several letters from "Mr
Thomson, Viewhill," it might be worth Lord Cawdor's while to

INTRODUCTORY. V.

consider the propriety of appointing a factor somewhat better
posted up in the details of his Lordship's estate ! Mr Stables,
who was a staunch adherent to the old Celtic place-names,
was not a little puzzled ; but, calling at the post office, he found
that the mystery was easily enough explained there. Soon
after, I received an invitation to dinner at the Castle and was
offered every facility to consult his private collection of native
plants and fossils, as circumstances might require. As the
latter were entirely new and interesting to me, I lost no time
in paying a visit to the limestone quarry at Lethen Bar. At
that time the peculiar nodules were to be found on the
surface in large numbers, and the first one which I opened
showed as perfect a section of the curious Pterichthys cornutus
as could be wished. The others contained fairly good speci-
mens of Coccosteus decipiens and Osteolepis major.

For a time I devoted a good deal of attention to the Geology
of the parish, The coarse Conglomerate in the Cawdor Burn
interested me, and particularly that point below Glengoulie
Bridge, where it is so admirably seen tilted up against the lower
metamorphic rock. Conversing one day with a local farmer,
he advised me to examine an old clay bank on the farm of
Knockloam, where, he said, he had seen in his early years
round stones very like those at Cairn Bar. I at once visited
the spot and found they were still there. On communicating
the fact to Mr Stables, he invited me to meet the Eev. Dr
Gordon, Eev. Mr Joass and himself on the ground and hear
what these gentlemen had to say on the subject. They were
greatly interested in the discovery and settled that the deposit
belonged to the same period as the one at Lethen Bar, although
the contained fossils were less perfectly preserved than those
on the higher level.

Soon after coming to Cawdor I gave up the idea of

VL INTRODUCTORY.

attempting to form a British collection of insects and decided
to make the local one as complete as possible. Owing to the
variety and luxuriance of the food plants there, the field was
particularly rich both in the Macro and Micro-Lepidoptera.
In a few years my cabinet contained specimens of seventeen
different Butterflies, and one hundred and sixty species of
Moths belonging to the district. Most were common, many
frequent, and a few so rare or irregular in appearance, that
the Entomologist might be years before he was fortunate
enough to capture any of them, For a long time, however, I
calculated on finding, each succeeding season, at least one
species as new to my collection. Of course there is a limit to
such additions, and I think I have now pretty nearly reached
it in Ardclach. In 1861, the Kev. Dr Gordon, published in
the Zoologist his " List of Lepidoptera hitherto found within
the Province of Moray," and he noticed in it some fifteen of
my Cawdor insects as being pretty rare North of the
Grampians.

My Ardclach " List " appeared in " The Annals of Scottish
Natural History " for January 1894. The less common
Butterflies recorded there are Argynnis aglaia, Pyrameus
atalanta, P. cardui, and Anthocharis cardamines ; while the
following Moths would be fully valued in any cabinet: —
Smerinthus populi, Orgyia coryli, Venilia maculata, Amphy-
dasis betularia, Hybernia defoliaria, Anticlea derivata, Carsia
imbutata, Acronycta leporina, Scopelosoma satellitia, and
Anarta cordigera. The last species, as far as our Island is
concerned, was supposed to occur only, and that but sparingly,
on the Moor of Rannoch — the Paradise of the British
Lepidoptera.

There is nothing rare or specially noteworthy among the
Hymenoptera of Ardclach. The local species are well

INTRODUCTORY. V1U

represented in my drawers. A goodly number both of the
Coleoptera and Diptera are also included, but having DO access
to the excessively dear standard works on British Entomology,
I found their identification both difficult and tantalizingly
uncertain. A few, however, have been correctly named, and
from past experience I expect that the veil will by and bye
be removed from some of the others also.

It was the heavenly blue of the pretty little viatical Speed-
well, Veronica Chamaedrys, that first captivated my love for
flowers and induced me to begin the study of Botany.
Casually mentioning the fact to the minister's wife, who had
given some attention to plants in her early days, I was
delighted when she offered her Manual for the season. Only
a few weeks after, however, the minister, to my surprise, asked

if I was through with it as Mrs liked to have it beside

her for reference. Rather disheartened T returned the volume
and wrote the Rev. Dr Gordon to recommend a suitable book
for my purpose. He named Irvine's Hand-Book of British
Plants, than which I doubt if there is a better popular work
in the market even yet. Some time after, my friend
remarked that there was an old Linnsean Botany in the manse
which I might have if I was still prosecuting my studies. I
declined with thanks and never again referred to the subject.

The Cawdor Wood, and especially the crannies along the
burn, yield a large proportion of the different ferns which
occur in Nairnshire. It was while searching about the banks
of this stream during the summer of 1863 that I came across
the single specimen which has ever since remained in my
possession without a name. The root was taken down to the
Cawdor greenhouse and under the care of Mr Maitland it
continued to thrive for several years. The new fronds
developed considerably in size, but on the whole, they very

viii. INTRODUCTORY.

decidedly retained their original individuality. I dried a
frond from each season's growth for the three following years,
and preserved them in the cabinet. It ought, t think, to take
rank somewhere among the Lastreas.

It was during a short stay in Strathpeffer, in -September
1867 that the late Mr Macnaughton and myself ascended,
without map or guide, to the summit of Ben Wyvis. When
about half-way up, we rested for a time with a local shepherd
who gave us much valuable information regarding our move-
ments on the mountain. Before parting, he gently tried to
worm out our calling and status in society and inquired where
we hailed from. " Nairnshire," was the somewhat indefinite
reply. " 0, that's the head county of Koss !" — referring, we
thought, to a detached portion near Dingwall. " And what
do you follow after on that side of the Firth?" said he,
*' Like yourself," rejoined my friend, " we take care of lambs."
He paused for a little, and looking more or less incredulous,
added " But they'll all be your own, I'm thinking ?" I assured
him that we were only servants, and that with the exception
of half-a-dozen which belonged to my more wealthy companion,
and a couple to myself, both flocks were the valued property
of our respective masters. When we saw that he was pre-
paring for a more minute analysis of our statements, we
changed the subject, and bidding our friend farewell, continued
the ascent and were soon on the summit. Within a few feet
of the highest point, I found in a sheltered cranny, a curious
plant, which has ever since remained in my cabinet an
unnamed specimen. We saw no others of the same kind.

To the young botanist all was desolate and scorched, but
the surface, on a nearer examination, presented a splendid
field for even an average Bryologist. Moss and lichen in
some of their rarest forms were everywhere abundant, and for

INTRODUCTORY. ix.

long stretches we walked over a stunted form of Bog Moss,
Sphagnum acutifolium, as pleasantly as if we had been
treading on the finest Brussels carpet. As the day was fine,
except about half an hour, when we were enveloped in mist,
we saw at one stretch from the German Ocean almost to the
Atlantic, and on the other, from the Grampians, far over the
hills of Sutherland and Caithness, and returned to the Spa
the same evening tired, but not in anywise fatigued.

After making a good collection of the flowering plants
found in Ardclaeh, I began to give some attention to the
Mosses, but soon discovered, that although this family was
remarkably beautiful and delicate in every particular, the
study presented many difficulties which could only be
overcome by minute observation, together with the use of a
fairly powerful microscope. Throughout the district there
was no lack of specimens. In the wood, on the moor, and by
the wayside, they appeared at every step, yet my undoubted
successes had been few, in comparison with the numerous
species still to be examined and represented in my herbarium.

Having a student friend attending the botany class at one
of the Universities, it occurred to me that through him I
might obtain some corroborative aid in my early stage.
Accordingly, two very common plants — a moss and a lichen —
over whose identity there still hung a thin haze of obscurity,
were posted to him, with the request that he would submit
them to his professor, who, it was to be expected, would name
them at a glance. This my friend did at the earliest
opportunity. " That is Cladonia rangiferina," said the
professor, without the least hesitancy ; " but your moss ; well
I'm not able at this moment to say what it is; but as it
happens to be in full fruit, the identification should be easy.
Leave it with me, and look back again." Next day at the end

X. INTRODUCTORY.

of his hour, the professor intimated that having an important
engagement elsewhere, he was sorry he would have to hurry
away as soon as possible. A week passed, and the student
ventured to call at his private room, but found him so busy
there writing a letter in order to catch the evening mail, that,
as he said, he could not spare a moment for consultation !
Henceforward, neither party referred to the subject. Nor did
it much matter, for by the time the announcement reached
me, the veil had been confidently pushed aside and the
mystery solved,

As it is the unexpected, however, that often happens, so on
the 15th May 1892, the postman handed me a letter addressed,
" Mr Kobert Thomson, Esquire, &c. " With some degree of
curiosity the seal was broken, and inside there was a lengthy
communication from an unknown correspondent : a working
man in Dundee. The writer had evidently only been nominally,
if ever, at any school, and the contents took me some time to
decipher. For Orthography and the rules of Syntax, he had
very little respect, while his caligraphy was scrawling>
irregular and defective.

He had recently written, he said, to a friend of mine in
Inverness, asking if he cared to associate himself
with an amateur naturalist, for the mutual study of the
Mosses. But that gentleman, being fully occupied at the time
with other subjects, replied that he was unable to accept his
offer, and had recommended him to apply to me. On the face
of it, I did not see very clearly where, in either case, the
" mutual " was to come in, but being greatly interested in this
science, and wishing to make as full a collection of the local
species as possible, I concluded that " two heads would be
better than one." In acknowledging his letter, I agreed, and
by an early post, thereafter, despatched three or four mosses,

INTRODUCTORY. XI.

then uuder consideration on my table. By return, they came
back duly classified, with their long Greek and Latin names
all correctly spelt ! This seemed rather strange, and it was
not without some suspicion that his identification was put to
the test. But on referring to a standard manual of British
Bryology, there was no denying the accuracy of the nomencla-
ture, as each agreed in the minutest detail with the relative
technical description of their respective species.

For several years after, a very pleasant correspondence
passed between us. Mosses and other Cryptogamia were
freely exchanged, and more than once did the Ardclach field
produce varieties which greatly interested my friend, while a
splendid Sphagnum, from a pool on the Aitnoch moor, would
have been esteemed a prize by any Bryologist in the land. It
soon apipeared that my correspondent was an enthusiast in
this difficult branch of science, having personally gathered,
and systematically arranged, fully three-fourths of the British
natives. Occasionally, he did hesitate for a day or two over
an immature specimen which had been pulled out of season,
and consequently without the important capsules so necessary
in settling its place among the other members of the same
family. In no case, however, did he fail to name any moss or
lichen submitted to him by me for that purpose. He appeared
to be quite familiar with all technical terms usually employed
by botanists, in their scientific descriptions of the Mosses, and
curiously enough, never spelt them wrong. His letters were
usually long; often amusing, but always full of practical
information. The following is fairly typical of his numerous
communications to me on his favourite subject : —

"DUNDEE, April 1892.

"Mr R Thomson, i am Always quit Plesed to see you Honer
the Humbl Mosses with good Pepper, but the Misscheaff of it

xii. INTRODUCTORY

is you Almost Always fold them up rong So i would like to
See you Just folding your Pakits Like all other Bryological
Brethren. I am sertain Mr Thomson would Just Like to be
Ship Styel in all his ways. Mr Thomson, i wish i were living
beside you i know quite well you would hav far mor to Learn
me than i could to you by a Thousand Miles. But then two
Men on a Mountain, Hill or Glen Bent on the Sam Subject,
would it not be Something Glorious & Grand. Pleese note
this i am going to say. Dont Atemp to stik your Speciments
all on Sheats of pepper — Because that would be of very little
use for an after Examination, or a Cretical refrance at any
time when required. By piking out a single plant out of a
pakit and putting it into a Tea Saser with a spunful of Hot
water it drives out the air from the sels in a minute or two
which you could not do with a Flowring Plant at all. Supose
a Moss plant be 8 or 10 years old you can revive it in a minute
or 2 for the microscoap. Pleas look at the last pakit i sent
you of Pilotrichum antipyreticum. i think i spelt the specific
name " pir " with an i instead of y, now if i did so this is rong
& you must corect it. we must be particklar as to the spelling
the nams of the Mosses right. — Yours faithfully."

In the following pages, I have endeavoured to notice
somewhat in detail, a variety of the more interesting plants
and wild flowers, to be met with in Ardclach. From a
long study of this fascinating science, I have derived not a little
valuable, as well as curious information, and enjoyed in all my
ramblings "O'er hill and dale and desert sod," a real pleasurable
excitement unknown to any save the genuine lover of Nature.
The display of endless modification and striking development,
presented to the botanist's eye, are well fitted to fill the mind
with wonder and admiration. Everywhere, do we meet with
beneficent thought, plan, and skilful adaptation, combined with
perfect harmony throughout the whole. At the same time, the
study is as healthful and exhilarating for the body, as it is
stimulating and pleasing for the mind. It induces the
student to notice with accuracy and system, the various

INTRODUCTORY. Xlll.-

distinctions and resemblances among Natural objects, and
develops a healthy formation of orderly and studious habits
in all the concerns of life. It braces the muscle, brightens
the vision, and leads the soul by a most spiritualising education
to realise, with clearer perceptions, the more immediate
presence of the Unseen and Eternal. It can only be carried on
successfully under the open canopy of heaven, while enjoying
the pure fresh air and the delightful scenery, amid which the
objects of our attention are to be found in their highest
perfection. In their rural haunts, the study of plants is-
equally open to every rank and condition of life, for the

" Flowers that spring by vale and stream,
Each one may claim them for his own. "

To them the landscape is largely indebted for that subtle
charm which fascinates the young botanist and induces him to
love Nature for her own intrinsic value.

From earliest boyhood, the outstanding tendency of my
disposition led me to take a peculiar delight in the study of
birds, insects arid plants, as well as to give an open ear, as
opportunities occurred, to those old-world stories so frequently
related lay the superstitious enthusiast at the rural cottage
fireside. By and by, I began to record for my own information
and amusement, the more striking facts or fancies held forth
in connection with any particular subject ; and, for many
years, this exercise proved a copious source of gratification to
at least my own mind. In this way a few local tales have
been preserved, for, as we live in an age less indulgent of
myth and tale than the bygone, they would almost certainly
have passed with their narrators into oblivion, and been
irretrievably lost. Of the legendary material contained in the
following pages, it is very doubtful if even a small fraction
could possibly be collected within the parish at the present

xiv. INTRODUCTORY.

day. Occasionally, it was found necessary to modify a rough
delineation with a slight dash of shade or colour, but in no
case was this ever done so as to alter, or even obscure, the
original picture.

My pupils often gave me most valuable assistance, both in
Botany and Entomology. Not a season passed, in which they
did not, from time to time, bring me some " strange beast,"
carefully wrapped up in a small box, now and then asserting
that " Nobody ever saw one like it !" and hoping it might be
something new. On examination, it was unquestionably true
that every " beast " proved " strange " in a high degree, but I
usually managed to convince the donors that, with careful
search and watchfulness, others of the same family might be
discovered in congenial retreats within the parish. More
than once, however, they did find rare specimens which I
myself never happened to come across. Professionally, my
Natural History acquirements proved of the utmost service,
in many ways to me, but especially in connection with Class
Subjects and Elementary Science, in stimulating the children
to intelligently observe, within their own environment, much
that is surpassingly perfect and beautiful in Nature,

Though the placen-ames are both interesting and instructive,
they are only such as might be expected to occur in a quiet
pastoral district — none being either historical or transferred.
With a few modern exceptions, the others are all the
descriptive creations of the early settlers, and have been
handed down to us from a remote antiquity. In most cases
the average Gaelic scholar is still able to solve their meaning
at a glance, but those which were so far corrupted as to
present real difficulty, were submitted to several eminent
Celtic Philologists, so that the various readings are believed
to be as nearly correct as possible.

INTEODUCTORY. XV.

Here, I wish to acknowledge the frank and encouraging
aid so cordially bestowed in every way by numerous friends,
many of whom, alas ! have now been " gathered to their
fathers," in Cawdor, Ardclach and elsewhere. To Mr James
Maitland, head gardener, Cawdor Castle, I am still very
grateful for much pleasant botanical intercourse, experienced
in former years. Possessing a wide and scientific acquaintance
with the wild flowers, he stands, head and shoulders, above
any of his other brethren with whom I ever came in contact,
My best thanks are especially due to Alexander Sclanders,
Esq., M.A., M.D., Nairn, who is well known as an excellent
botanist, for the long and practical interest he was pleased to
take in almost every subject which goes to make up this
work. I am also greatly indebted to Percy Hall Grimshaw,
Esq., of the Science and Art Museum, Edinburgh, for the able
assistance he rendered to me in connection with my List of
local Diptera. And not less am I obligated to the exertions
of George Bain, Esq., Editor of the " Nairnshire Telegraph/'
by whose care and scholarly superintendence the " Natural
History of a Highland Parish " has been arranged and
brought into its present systematic shape.

K. T.

CHAPTER I.

SITUATED in Nairnshire, the parish of Ardclach contains an area
of about eighty square miles. Raised on an average some five
hundred feet above sea level, it produces on the higher elevations
not a few plants whose natural habitat is in the region which lies
not far removed from the lower confines of the snow limit. The
general slope is toward the Moray Firth, with every here and
there a pretty steeply inclined gradient as one proceeds from
North to South. The surface is rough and undulating, and
embraces large stretches of pasture and mossy lands.

Throughout these moorland tracts, there is little to disturb the
traveller, save the whirr of the grouse, the frisp of the snipe, or
the nervous wailing of the lapwing during the nesting season.
The soil, in general, is intermingled to such an extent with small
water-worn stones, that the name which the parish now bears was
originally derived from a typical portion — Ardclach, meaning
the Height of Stones.

By means of careful drainage and the application of sand and
lime to the dark mossy products, large areas, formerly considered
sour wastes, have been reclaimed for the benefit of the general
community. For many years afterwards, these fields continued
to yield excellent crops, and even now an important benefit is

2 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

being experienced in a more healthy local climate. The warmth
of the summer sun, formerly lost in evaporating the water from
the shallow pools, is now directly exercised in heating the drained
soil, and warming the air which rests immediately above it.

All over the marshy districts, there is to be found a luxuriant
growth of rushes, sedges, or other wild grasses. No sooner do
the winter snows disappear, than these spots become aglow with
the bright yellow Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris), and its
natural companions, the moisture loving Buttercups. A few
weeks later, and the surface is prettily chequered with a snowy
display of the tasselled silky Cotton Grass. In almost all the
muddier hollows, there are large thickets of the Sweet Gale (Myrica
gale). This is a very small willow-like shrub, the leaves of which
emit a powerful odour especially after rain. It imparts not a
little of those peculiarly pleasant and health-giving properties
which characterise the mountain breezes, blowing across its
favourite retreats.

Scattered irregularly over the undulating moorland, may be
observed an occasional boulder of considerable size, dropt from
some mighty glacier during the remote antiquity of the Glacial
Period. Most are covered with light encrustations of grey
lichens, intermixed at times with a specimen or two of the
beautifully developed mossy tribes. " No words that I know of,"
to borrow the language of Mr Ruskin, "will tell what these forms
are. None are delicate enough, none perfect enough, none rich
enough. They will not be gathered like the flowers for chaplet
or love token ; but of these the wild bird will make its nest, and
the wearied child its pillow. When all other service is vain, from
plant and tree, the soft mosses and grey lichen take up their
watch by the headstone. The woods, the blossoms, the grain-
bearing grasses, have done their parts for a time, but these do
service for ever. Trees for the builder's yard, flowers for the
brides chamber, corn for the granary, and moss for the grave.
Strong in lowliness, they neither blanch in heat, nor pine in frost.

ITS GENERAL ASPECT. 3

Sharing the stillness of the unimpassioned rock, they also share
its endurance ; and while the winds of departing Spring scatter
the white hawthorn blossom like drifted snow, and Summer dims
on the parched meadow the drooping of its cowslip gold — far
above, among the mountains, the silver lichen spots rest, star-like,
on the stone ; and the gathering orange stain upon the edge of
yonder peak reflects the sunset of a thousand years."

These varied patches are the means of relieving many a bold
crag on the bleak hillside, and even converting it into an object
of great beauty. Viewing such scenes, the botanist may truly be
said to be a veritable possessor of the "second sight." Here,
Enchanter like, he exercises an innate power and discovers a
garden spreading itself over the surface of the rugged summits,
where others only see a wilderness of bleak desolation. From
these elevations the rain-water percolates down their sides, and
collects in the lower depressions as dark mossy tarns, which again
send out their peat-stained rills to mingle with the waters of the
Findhorn or Meikle Burn.

In many parts, along the banks of these streams, the dark
alder forms a very suitable skirting, while the general surface of
the brown heath is ornamented with verdant groves of mountain
fern, or relieved, in the lower district through the summer
months, with the golden inflorescence of the Broom and Whin.
The higher areas are interspersed with straggling birches, which,
occasionally collecting into graceful clumps, diffuse a pleasing
influence over the landscape. Especially is this the case when the
sere and yellow Autumn comes slowly through the forest glades,
or along the river margin gradually developing in the leaf that
wonderful initial dissolution which mysteriously lights up the
scene with such an indescribable charm.

Over the wide shallow declivities there is an extensive
accumulation of peaty matter — a sort of very young unburied
coal — often many feet in thickness. These mossy flats, with their
deposits of both ancient and recent formation, have hitherto

4 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

yielded an important supply of valuable fuel to the inhabitants in
the surrounding districts. While digging out the peat, one is
frequently surprised at the number and freshness of the roots,
occurring from time to time in the process. This is particularly
noticeable on the Hill of Aitnoch — the highest elqvation on the
south-east side of the parish. The flat summit appears, from the
stumps and roots still peeping up through the moss, to have been
so thickly set with pine trees, that it must have been a matter of
some difficulty for a stag, or even a fox, to have forced a passage
among them, In general, these did not attain to any considerable
size on account of the poor subsoil. Occasionally a specimen or
two of black oak may be dug up, in favourable situations, rivaling
in dimensions any of the larger denizens from the modern forests.
There is sufficient evidence, however, from the charred surfaces,
to conclude that fire must have been the grand agent employed
for their general destruction. How and when, these virgin forests
came under the power of the devouring element, is still a matter
of speculation. Sometimes no doubt, the rude inhabitants lighted
accidental fires. More frequently, they may have been kindled
with the intention of either annoying an enemy or clearing the
district of wild animals, with the result that the conflagration often
spread far and wide beyond the power of any one either to control
or subdue.

" Although cold are our hills and barren our moors," yet the
agriculturist has taken possession of every available situation, and
at great toil and considerable expense, has managed to bring
large stretches under the influence of his fostering care. The
parish is thus interspersed with a good many fairly sized holdings,
from whose highly cultivated fields the farmer obtains, from year
to year, an average yield of all the ordinary crops except wheat,
which does not succeed at such an altitude.

One of the prettiest and best known botanical favourites reaches
even to the higher elevations of the parish. It is the " Daisie "
of Chaucer and the " wee, modest crimson tipped flower " of the

SPRING TIME. &

poet Burns, Should the season prove at all mild, it may be
noticed in almost any month throughout the year. The Latin
name — Bellis perennis — is fully as suggestive of beauty as its
French synonym, Marguerite, meaning a pearl. In the age of
chivalry, it occupied a prominent place among the Flora in general.
St. Louis of France combined it and the Lily in a beautifully
chaste device for his signet ring. Beholding in the daisy, a fit
representation of his peerless Queen, he saw in the latter a
characteristic emblem of the stainless virtue of his own country.
Though establishing itself in almost every conceivable situation,
it appears to manifest quite a strong attachment to man in all his
wanderings over the temperate regions. During the summer
months, it luxuriates in great profusion owing to the lightness of
the soil on the upland meadows of Ardclach. The florets are so
closely united on a common head that the group is almost
invariably spoken of as a single flower. The outer row is unlike
the rest, terminating as they do on the under side in a white
flag or "ray."

A beautiful old Highland legend exists in reference to the
daisy : — " The virgins of Morven, to soothe the grief of Malvina,
who had lost her infant son, sung to her— 'We have seen, 0
Malvina ! we have seen the infant you regret reclining on a light
mist ; it approached us, and shed on our fields a harvest of new
flowers. Look, 0 Malvina ! among these flowers, we distinguish
one with a golden disc, surrounded by silver leaves ; a sweet
tinge of crimson adorns its delicate rays; waved by a gentle wind,
we might call it a little infant playing in a green meadow ; and
the flower of thy bosom has given a new flower to the hills of
Cromla.' Since that day the daughters of Morven consecrated
the daisy to infancy."

The Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) * foremost of the lovely train/
is often a close companion of the daisy in many of the sacred spots
throughout the country. As it is very doubtfully native, it is
met with only apparently wild, in a few congenial situation g

6 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

where it is almost certain that the bulbs were introduced by
human agency. Thus, it grows in considerable abundance in the
Lethen wood near the Mansion House, but in all likelihood both
it and the companion Daffodil are only survivals of the old Castle
garden. Its presence in the early Spring, while the.icicles are yet
pendant on the houses, is welcomed by all as an emblem of
consolation, and atones, in great measure, for the long dearth of
floral ornamentation during the foregoing months. The perianth,
inclosing six stamens, is a bell-shaped flower which rises from a
true bulb on a single leafless stem, between a pair of pale green
parallel veined leaves. In this last respect the Snowdrop exhibits
a good specimen of the characteristics of one of the great
divisions of the Vegetable Kingdom which includes, among many
others, the palms and grasses of so great importance to mankind.
Both its scientific names are very descriptive, Galanthus being
two Greek words meaning " milk-flower", while nivalis is the
Latin for snowy There is an old belief that the Snowdrop
should be in flower on the second of February. In the Highlands
this seldom happens. In Ardclach, however, we noticed it in
full bloom on that date in 1889. The idea originated with some
of the early conventual botanists who tried to construct a floral
calendar for each day of the year, and dedicated this hardy
firstling to the Virgin Mary on their Feast of Candlemas.

In friendly companionship, here and there over the Lethen
wood, there are numbers of the Lesser Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
in flower about the same time. Notice the bright leathery leaves
of the trailing stems with their handsome blue flowers, and it
ought to be at once recognised.

The Henbit, or Dead Nettle, (Lamium purpureum), is a very
common weed in every garden, and like the daisy, may be found
in flower almost throughout the year. It offers a good example
of the Labiate Order, so called from the form of the corolla, which
presents the appearance of an under lip, but the leaves are devoid
of any poisoned hairs. The stem is square instead of round, as

SPRING TIME. 7

in the real stinging nettle. Several of the species present the
anomaly of being able to produce fertile seed, even before the plants
appear to reach maturity. They are often in fruit by the time
the petals are fully expanded. No wonder that the old farmers
believed in the doctrine of spontaneous generation. The well
known " Dai Nettle " (Galeopsis Tetrahit) of Nairn, so much
dreaded by labourers in the harvest field, is a near relative and
equally abundant.

During the first two months of the year, the flowering plants are
rather scarce, because they refuse to expose their beautiful and deli-
cate forms to the keen severities of the nipping frosts. Gradually,
however, as the days begin to lengthen, " The earth becomes an
emerald, and the heaven a sapphire bright," thus indicating that
summer is close at hand, when the " busy hum of insect crowds,
all full of life and joy," assures us that animated Nature is again
reviving from the Arctic conditions of a cheerless winter.

A very conspicuous March wild flower is the Colts' Foot
(Tussilago farfara), or ** The Son before the Father," as it is called
by the local herbalists. Although plentiful in many parts, it does
not succeed very well in Ardclach, but a few dwarfed specimens
may be met with from time to time, along the larger water courses.
The yellow composite flowers are very showy, and often mistaken
for those of the Dandelion. They are quickly followed by the
downy seeds, so much prized by the Goldfinch, and as cunningly
used in its elegant little nest. As the flowers die away, the leaves
begin to show themselves, carpeting the ground with their large
woolly heart-shaped foliage, and if the crop be not carefully cut
down, it may soon come, in favourable situations, to occupy more
ground than the owner quite cares to bestow upon it.

As implied by the name " tussis," it was formerly much extolled
as a " cough " medicine, with at least one virtue— it did but little
harm. The leaves have been, and possibly still are, largely used
as a British adulteration of tobacco. Indeed, when some of us
were boys and unable to stand the strength of the pure " weed "

$ A HIGHLAND PARISH.

itself, we have, on the quiet, tried to smoke the dried Tussilago,
by way of showing off our little manliness among our admiring
compeers. The name was given to the plant from the shape of
the leaf which was supposed to bear some resemblance to a colt's
foot.

A cousin german, often referred to as " The Sunflower of the
Spring," is the well known Dandelion (Leontodon taraxacum),
which may be found continuously in flower from March to
October. It is a very common wayside plant, and, were it not for
this circumstance, might be considered pretty, from the gaudy
blossoms and the white plumed seed heads which succeed them.
Most people are ready to admit that we have lost a goodly
number of native wildlings as the result of tillage^ but few, who
have not gone into the subject, have any idea how many of the
existing Flora would be lost, were the surface again left
undisturbed by man and the lower animals. According to Sir
J. D. Hooker, " Both the common form of the Dandelion, and the
Shepherd's Purse, which are almost exclusively confined to
cultivation, would be among the first of many to be suppressed.''
When the seed has become fully ripe, it is dispersed by means of
a beautifully constructed downy appendage, known to botanists
as the pappus. A more skilfully arranged contrivance to effect
the purpose intended, is scarcely conceivable. How often may
we witness the weary cow-herd applying to its matured seed
head, and improvising it as a would-be timepiece, in order to
ascertain the tardy flight of the long summer hours according to
the number of puffs which has to be applied with the mouth before
the receptacle is completely cleared and the hour of day thereby
indicated ; thus, puff, one o'clock ; puft, two o'clock, and so on as
in the rhyme : —

41 Dandelion, with head of down, the cow-herd's clock on every town (farm)
Which the laggard puffs amain, to conjure lost hours back again."

From the dotted impressions left on the naked disc, fringed with
its edging of reflexed sepals, they are sometimes known to school

SPRING TIME. 9

girls as their dolls' pincushions. The root has long been
acknowledged by medical men to be possessed of the most
valuable curative properties, but as it is procurable almost
anywhere, and without the least expense, the popular mind has
failed to recognise its sovereign virtues. The honey secreted in
the nectaries is so plentiful, and so easily accessible, that it is nearly
continuously visited by various insects which help materially in
crossing its vital organs. In addition to this fact, its bright
colour, the habit of closing in unfavourable weather, as well as the
power of self fertilization, go far to explain the great profusion
in which it occurs,

Very likety the eye may be attracted by the clear blue of a
small flower, often almost hidden from view by the thick herbage
among which it loves to creep. This is the Ground Ivy (Glechoma
hederacea), — the sole representative of its genus in this country.
It may be readily known by the procumbent trailing stems, which
bear reniform, crenate leaves, with auxiliary labiate flowers. It
is pretty abundant in Ardclach, upon the shady flats along the
riverside. When carefully dried, it forms a splendid specimen for
the herbarium.

Every now and then, on the driest and lightest spots, one is
pretty sure to come across the small white-flowered Whitlow
Grass (Draba verna), faintly starring, especially in sunshine, the
surface with its rosaceous root leaves, crowned on short stems
with the tiny cross-like petals.

By the end of March, the willows at the riverside gradually
begin to put out their sexual flowers — reminding us that the
severities of winter are fast passing away, and that a milder
season is approaching. A little later on, the pendulous catkins
become aglow with a golden radiance, and when fully ripe, shed
down showers of pollen on all aronnd. The humble bee may now
be seen issuing forth with joyous hum, from a long seclusion in
her winter retreat, to obtain upon the willows a scanty supply of
"bread and honey " as her first-fruits, at the same time relying on

10 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the assurance of better times and richer stores in the early future.
A principle known as Salicine exists in the bark, and when
extracted forms a valuable tonic in intermittent fevers. It is
sometimes used as a substitute for quinine.

The Cotton Grass (Eriophorum angustifolium^is one of the first
which comes into flower, but the Summer will be well advanced
before the fleecy heads of woolly cotton constitute such a beautiful
ornament all over the mossy flats.

The Aspen, or Trembling Poplar (Populus tremula) is generally
wild in Ardclach. There is, however, a small grove, in a rich
hollow on the Findhorn, near Glenferness, where the trees have
grown to a great height — the pale spectre-like appearance of the
trunks forming a very striking object as one unexpectedly
approaches them from either direction. The peculiar tremulous
motion of its foliage is caused by the great length of the compressed
leaf-stalks — the least breeze being sufficient to keep them
quivering. There was an old superstition here that the Cross was
made from the wood of this tree, and that it has never been
allowed to rest in consequence of that dreadful circumstance.
A shrewd lady writer on this subject, however, notices that this
calamity can scarcely apply to the leaves, as the Cross could not have
been constructed from them; but, perhaps, she naively adds, "They
struggle to escape from the wicked wood on which they grow."
Every one knows the proverb — " Trembling like an Aspen leaf."
The poet Thomson refers to the occasional still of the Aspen's
leaves during the breathless hush which sometimes precedes a
shower of rain : —

" Gradual sinks the breeze
Into a perfect calm ; that not a breath
Is heard to quiver through the closing wood,
Or rustling turn the many-twinkling leaves
Of Aspen tall,"

The very name of April indicates that, in spite of the chilly
breezes, alternating with sunshine and shower, which accompany
this month, there are now buds and blossoms, bells and flowerets
anew, to embarrass even the most ardent botanist who loves to

SPRING TIME. 11

wander among the "pomp of groves and garniture of fields."
From its appearance and delightful odour, the Common Primrose
(Primula vulgaris) — " Eldest daughter of the Spring," — occupies
a foremost place. The name does not signify the first rose of
Spring, as is often asserted. The old form used by Chaucer is
primerole, which is an abbreviation through the French of the
Italian prima verola, the diminutive of prima vera, the full phrase
being fior di prima vera, or the Flower of the Early Spring. It
may be found abundantly on the sunny banks along the Findhorn,
as well as the grassy slopes of its tributary burns, and is a great
local favourite. The salver-shaped corolla, of a yellowish white,
rises upon a single flowered stalk, through a bushy rosette of
wrinkled green leaves. Although the petals are rather pleasant
to the taste, no grazing animal, except the pig, will touch the
rough foilage of the Primrose. Owing to their soft delicacy and
fine colours of almost every shade except blue, the Primula
family has been cultivated as garden favourites from the earliest
times. This little " nurseling of the Spring " bids fair to become
a historical flower.

Gleaming unobtrusively on every bank and roadside, " Sweeter
than the lids of Juno's eyes," even the least observant can
scarcely fail, during the early Summer months, to notice the
delicate blue of the hardy little Dog Violet (Viola canina). Of
the nine British species, Ardclach produces four. Viola arvensis
is plentiful in cultivated fields, and may be easily known by its
small faint yellow corolla, which is rarely tinged with light
purple. Farmers generally rank it among their weeds. The
Marsh Violet (V. palustris), often mistaken for its brighter sister,
the Dog Violet, occurs in turfy bogs not unfrequently in the
Glenferness woods. The Mountain Pansy (V. lutea), is usually
abundant on the grassy pastures. The flowers are rather peculiar,
and vary from purple, with a yellow spot at the base of the lower
and lateral petals. Occasionally, specimens occur which show a
tendency to run completely into the normal yellow which confers

12 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the name, but the colour is, in general, so distinctly purple that
the young botanist is sure to conclude that, be the specimens what
they may, they cannot be those of the Yellow Pansy. It was the
favourite flower of the great Napoleon.

The elegant little Wind Flower (Anemone nemorosa) may be
found in great profusion in many a sheltered hollow throughout
the parish. Its white corollas, externally tinged with a slight
dash of pink, rise upon a single stalk which produces three deeply-
cut leaves of about equal size, arid at a distance more or less
remote from the flower. In their season, they form good natural
barometers, indicating, as they invariably do, the approach of a
shower, by curling over their slender petals in a curtain-like
fashion so as to protect the tender organs from the dew and wet —

" Come tell me, thou coy little flower,

Converging thy petals again,
Who gave thee the magical power

Of shutting thy cup on the rain ?"

The Lesser Celandine (Ranunculus ficaria) grows abundantly
on the island round Lochindorbh Castle, and occurs in several
isolated spots along the Findhorn, and elsewhere over the parish.
By the non-botanical eye, it is often mistaken for a buttercup.
In addition to its yellow star-like blossoms, which delight in the
open sunshine, it may be easily recognised by the smooth, bright
green, heart-shaped leaves, and the bunch of elongated tubers
attached to the root. The poet Wordsworth in writing of this
wilding, says : —

" There is a flower, the Lesser Celandine,
That shrinks, like many more, from cold and rain,
But the first moment that the sun doth shine
Bright as the sun himself is out again."

The numerous tubercles adhering to the root, lie so near the
surface that they are sometimes washed bare, and even detached
by a violent thunder shower, thus giving rise to an early popular
idea, that it had rained wheat. A careful examination, however,
by the botanist, showed the matter in its true light.

The name itself is interesting. It is derived from the Greek

SPRING TIME. 1$

word for a swallow, because, by means of its virtues, these birds
were reputed to strengthen the defective eye-sight of their young
ones, if it chanced to be impaired in any way before they were
old enough to leave the nest.

In not a few of the drier spots under the crags along the river-
side considerable thickets of the Sloe or Black Thorn (Primus
spinosa) are to be met with. Most people know that the straight
shoots form splendid walking-sticks — the knotty projections on
which greatly helping to give an additional pretty effect. The
famous " shilelagh " of Ireland should, in all cases, be a branch
from the Black Thorn. Care, we may remark, ought to be
exercised in cutting one, lest any of the spines inadvertently
pierce the hand and produce a rather troublesome wound. This
shrub belongs to the Almond Family, and is supposed to be the
original of all our plums and green gages, only highly developed
through a long course of careful cultivation. It usually comes
into blossom, while the cold " black winds of March " are at their
keenest, the white flowers on the leafless stems having a very
cheering effect among the surrounding vegetation To this the
poet alludes in the following beautiful lines : —

" The hope, in dreams of a happier hour.

That alights on misery's brow,
Springs out of the silvery almond flower
That blooms on a leafless bough."

The dried leaves were at one time employed in the adulteration
of tea, and although the article thus blended has, rather jocularly
been named " slow poison," the infusion is said to be equally
wholesome, if not quite as stimulating as that of the genuine
Indian production itself.

In favourable situations, the Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum)
comes into flower about the end of April. It grows sparingly
even to the highest summits over the parish. Locally, the fruit
is known as " Croupans," and the slender wiry branches, set with
imperfect whorls of heath-like evergreen leaves, trail on the
ground and assume a redish hue as they become old. Their

14 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

structure is not a little curious. By the revolute folding of their
edges towards the midrib, they form peculiar hollow cylinders.
The small scarious flowers tend to become " everlasting," while
the berry, esteemed only by the youthful palate, is glossy black,
and produced in small clusters round the stemv Grouse and
other moor fowl find in it a very pleasant variety to their usual
fare. When boiled with alum, it was said to have afforded a good
purple dye, serviceable to our forefathers for home use.

A very conspicuous member of the wet meadows or spongy
burnsides, is the showy Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) with
its characteristic reniform shining leaves. By some it is known
as the Bull's Eye, which is no doubt a corruption of Pool's Eye.
Others again call it the Drunkard, from the excess of water it is
able, in a short time, to absorb and pass through its system.
The usual corolla has been suppressed, but the intense yellow
colouring of the calyx makes ample atonement, and the loss, to
the ordinary eye, is seldom apparent. When the fruit is matured,
the follicle or seed vessel, differing from the usual pod, splits
along the upper edge for the dispersion of its peas. It partakes,
to a considerable degree, of the acridity common to the Order, and
the partially developed flower-buds, preserved in vinegar and salt,
are reputed to be good substitutes for capers.

The moist heathy ground is the favourite abode of the
Common Lousewort (Pedicularis sylvatica). Both this one and
the sister species are rather solitary in their habits, being seldom
found even in small clusters. As the former continues in flower
for fully five months, there can be but little difficulty experienced
in coming across a specimen for examination. The latter,
(palustris), does not appear until after mid-summer, but it is
equally common in Ardclach. They may be readily known by
their bushy habit, the much divided leaves, their angular stems,
and the technical rose-coloured, two-lipped flowers. These plants
are not much esteemed by shepherds, but the early belief that
they produced, as the name implies, the parasitical disease to

SPRING TIME. 15

which the woolly race is liable, is a fancy now proved to be purely
imaginary.

Two spring flowers are great favourites among boys and girls
on account of the undoubted evidence afforded to them by the
yellow impression reflected from the bright petals so distinctly on
the chin, when held about an inch therefrom, that some particular
playmate "is fond of butter." These are the Meadow and
Creeping Butter Cups, (Ranunculus acris, and E. repens). They
become so numerous at times that whole fields are distinctly tinted
with their presence — they insist on being seen whether we will or
not. Both are very troublesome weeds, and as such are well
known to farmers and gardeners. In general they are avoided by
cattle, although sheep and goats are said to feed on them sparingly.
The double variety is referred to in the vernacular as "Bachelors'
Buttons." Ranunculus bulbosus may be readily distinguished by
the reflexed sepals and swollen root, while its half aquatic sister,
the Lesser Spear wort (R. Flammula) with its narrow smooth
leaves, must be sought for in ditches or similar spongy bogs.
Another pretty member is the subalpine Globe Flower (Trollius
Europseus) which grows occasionally by the riverside. It is the
" bonny Lucken Go wan " of Hogg's beautiful sonnet, and is sure
to attract attention from the incurved petals forming an almost
perfect yellow globe about the size of a boy's marble. This is the
flower of which he sings : —

" When the Blewart bears a pearl,
And the Daisy turns a pea,
And the bonnie Lucken Gowan
Has fauldit up her e'e. "

By the end of April the forest trees are all in bud and blossom.
Though less attractive to the ordinary eye, they are more imposing
and useful to mankind in general than the

" Beautiful children of the glen and dell —
The dingle deep ; the moorland stretching wide,
And of the mossy fountain's sedgy side,"

which we have just been considering. Compared with the herbal
sisterhood, they are, no doubt, sombre and dull, but at the same

16 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

time possessed of a peculiar beauty, which is both interesting and
instructive to the earnest student of Natural History. The Ash
and the Birch, the Chestnut and the Oak, are now in full bloom.
But, with the exception of the first, they each bear their fertile,
though obscure flowers, on one part, and the pendulous male
catkins on another. The romantic beauty of a birch glade, when
in the full strength of its inflorescence, is exceedingly characteristic
and appropriate. In any situation its presence is felt as adding
a charm to the scene with its light transparent form waving in
the gentle breeze, and quivering against the sky, but nowhere can
the impressive elegance of its gracefully drooping tassels be more
strikingly witnessed than among the corries and tributary glenlets
.along our own finely wooded Findhorn.

CHAPTER II.

" Hence let us haste into the mid-wood shade,
Where scarce a Sunbeam wanders through the gloom ;
And on the dark green grass, beside the brink
Of haunted stream, that by the roots of oak
Rolls o'er the rocky channel, lie at large,
And view the glories of the circling year."

The fresh outburst into new life and beauty with which Nature
is marked at the commencement of summer, instinctively
stimulates in every one feelings of gladness and sincere welcome.
With the advent of " the merry May " we are all brought more
emphatically into contact with the distant valleys, full to the brim
and overflowing with radiant light from the cloudless skies, and
the softer melodies of the gurgling brooks, leaping from the
surrounding hills in pursuit of their mazy path to the neighbouring
river. Stimulated by the milder breezes, flower and foliage will
soon shoot forth robed in splendour to adorn both shrub and tree,
as well as to scatter golden cups and purple bells o'er every
meadow, woodland, or brown hill side. In due course, the
«arly morn steals slowly over the mountain tops, embalmed with
the odour of countless blossoms rendered still more sweet from
their dewy baptism of the night. The contrast which is so
palpable between this and the foregoing months, no doubt

18 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

originated that intense interest in the young May, which
incited the ancient Romans to do it homage in the annual
observance of their Floralia,and the people of England to celebrate
the same occasion in rural mirth and social enjoyment. And
now we begin with those plants which are bold enough to put
out their blossoms and expose their beauty and delicacy to the
chilling frosts so frequently experienced in the early spring.

The root of the Common Aconite, Monk's Hood, or Wolf's
Bane, (Aconitum napellus), as it is variously called, contains a
most potent poison, so much so that l-50th of a grain of aconitine
will kill a sparrow in a few minutes. It has been, and is liable
to be again, mistaken for horse radish, which it pretty much
resembles, but may be readily distinguished, as it is destitute of
the powerful smell which Aconite always emits. The root is also
shorter, darker and more fibrous, and has been the cause of many
accidental deaths. No caution, therefore, is too great when we
have such terrible agents to deal with.

Altogether the species in this family number about a thousand,
dispersed throughout most countries on the face of the globe.
Few, if any, however can be said to be specially serviceable to
man, except in so far as poisons are valuable when employed as
medicines. All the domestic animals invariably reject them, and
for a good reason too, as any one will find who may have the
curiosity to chew even a small portion of the leaf. This acridity,
which is their prevailing quality, disappears entirely after the
plants have been dried. Should the bruised foliage be applied to
the skin, it produces ugly blisters, and beggars, in some instances,
are said to take advantage of this, and use poltices of the Celery-
leaved Crowfoot (R. sceleratus) to raise sores, in order to stimulate
compassionate benevolence more fully on their behalf.

It may be worth while to notice the essential characteristics of
this Order. The carpels or female parts of the flower never
combine, but remain quite distinct until they fall off; hence the
fruit is said to be apocarpous, or non-adherent. The stamens or

MIDSUMMER. 19

male parts are inserted on the ends of the flower stalks, between
the seeds and the corolla, and are thus hypogynous. If the
student, therefore, meet with any new plants having these
distinctive marks, no matter how different the general appearance,
size, shape, or colour of the flower may be, still it is almost certain
to be a Ranunculus, and ought to be carefully rioted as such.

In the dry loamy spots which occur rather frequently along the
river side, may be found a plant well known to our forefathers.
From the appearance presented by the slender drooping umbels,
some days before they display their tiny flowers, one might be
ready to suppose that they had begun to decay. This is not the
case. They will be erect enough as soon as the blossoms are fully
developed. The plant is the Earth Nut (Bunium flexuosum),
and a beautiful little specimen it is of the Order to which it
belongs. Several fleshy tubers are produced on the common
under-ground stems, and, in favourable situations, a few may be
found even as large as a goose egg.

Among the early Saxons the Earth Nut was considered good
for pigs only — hence the vulgar name. At a later period they
were often eaten by the poorer peasantry, when the usual crops
were under an average. The " nut " tastes pretty much like a
turnip-radish, but it is to be feared that the relish for such
delicacies is rather on the decrease even among the hungry herd-
boys in the present day.

On the dry patches among the heather, or about the foundations
of old walls, may be noticed one of the Pearlworts (Sagina
procumbens), growing in dark green tufts, with the slender thread-
like stems lying along the ground, and forked in the same manner
as its near relative, the Common Chickweed or the "Hen's
Inheritance " (Stellaria media). On very dry sunny spots this
wildling sometimes produces no petals, and bears only five or
three, instead of ten stamens. It may be always identified,
however, by the peculiar line of hairs, which at each joint changes
from one side to another, completing the circle of the stem at the

20 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

fourth time. The leaves give a striking example of the sleep of
plants, closing up as they do on the young shoots at nightfall.

A beautiful representative of the Order is the Greater
Stitchwort, or Fairy Flax (S. Holostea). It occurs frequently
along the riverside, and especially so near the iron girder bridge
at the Parish Church. No bouquet of wild flowers from Ardclach
would be complete without a full share of its large, snowy, starlike
blossoms occupying a prominent position therein. The sharply-
pointed leaves and square stem, often kneeling among the grass,
are sufficient characters for settling its individuality. Two of the
trivial names by which it is sometimes known are Snap Stalks
and Break Bones, from the ease with which the brittle joints
crack and come asunder. A sister plant, the Lesser Stitchwort
(S. graminea), much smaller in every way, but with very similar
flowers is also occasionally to be met with in the parish.

By the end of May the roadsides are fully decked with the
" darling Speedwell's heavenly blue." Few of Flora's fair ones
are more ornamental than the Germander Speedwell (Veronica
chamaedrys), which is often, though erroneously, believed to be the
true Forget-me-not. This is the natural gem among the wild
flowers which first captivated the writer's fancy, and led him to
study Botany as a science. A near relative, the Brooklime (V.
Beccabunga), may from time to time be met with, starring the
bottom of some sluggish stream with its chaste little blossoms
which surpass in brilliancy even the delicate azure of its typical
sister. The Veronicas form a pretty widely extended British
genus, five of which, with the exception of the last, are to be
found in great abundance all over the district. In attempting to
form an aquaintance with the native species, settle the Germander
and there should be no difficulty with the others. Observe how
easily the flower, carrying with it the two stamens, falls off on the
slightest friction, also the opposite cordate leaves, with the double
row of hairs, alternating on the stem at each successive joint, and
there can scarcely be any mistake.

EARLY SUMMER. 21

Another popularly, though falsely allied tribe, is the Mouse
Ears, so named from the form of their leaves. They claim

" That blue and gentle floweret of the brook,
Hopes gentle gem, the sweet Forget-me-not. "

The Myosotis palustris has long been held in universal esteem,
not only from the legend which confers the name, but more so
for its own inherent beauty, as displayed in the pleasing blue
reflected from its handsome little corolla. It is not only greatly
admired by every one in its native retreats, but the leaves and
blossoms are often portrayed upon our choicest ornaments to
heighten the effect of an artificial beauty. Of the family to which
it belongs, three delight to luxuriate in humid meadows, bogs and
ditches, while five are to be met with on the drier areas of the
moor and mountain side. The Myosotis is a beautiful and
gregarious plant, and for many long years has been regarded as
an emblem of the closest friendship and love — " A token flower
that tells what words can never speak so well."

The Herb Robert (Geranium Robertianum), is rather common
and should be looked at but little handled, because the whole
plant leaves a somewhat disagreeable odour, resembling the smell
of the fox, and said to be even vile enough to banish bugs. With
its pink stem, small flowers, and deeply pinnate leaves, it makes
a beautiful specimen for the herbarium. The way in which it
spirally splits up its " cranesbill " when ripe is very pretty and
forms a characteristic peculiar to the whole family. None of the
species is in the least harmful, but their value is almost solely
confined to their appearance as decorative plants when introduced
to the garden or greenhouse. When found growing in exposed
situations, "it often becomes all over red as blood." This
condition, according to the mystical Doctrine of Signatures, was
considered a true indication that it was intended by Providence
as a sure remedy in cases of external and internal bleeding, as well
as an unfailing cure for Erysipelas, or Rose, as it is called in the
local vernacular. The origin of the name is rather uncertain, but

22 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the weight of evidence seems to favour the idea that it was
conferred in honour of Robin Hood, the celebrated English outlaw
of Sherwood Forest.

Every one whose home is in the country knows the Wood
Sorrel (Oxalis acetosella). It is the only British species, but is
so abundant that it may be generally met with carpeting the
woodlands and richer pastures, or sweetly nestling, it may be,
at the base of some weather-beaten stone on the hillside. The
pale green ternate leaves — the Birdies' Biscuits of schoolboy
nomenclature — and the transparent fairy-like bells, composed of
five lilac-veined white petals, are very attractive to the youthful
fancy. The plant contains an agreeable flavouring of oxalic acid
— the same as that found in the garden rhubarb. An infusion of
the leaves is exceedingly refreshing to any one oppressed with a
feverish thirst. This is one of our prettiest natives, and is by
many supposed to be the real Shamrock of the Emerald Isle — the
very wildling from which St. Patrick himself plucked a leaf, and
exhibited it to his converts as a simple illustration of the doctrine
of the Trinity. The story, however, is a late one, not being found
in any of the earlier lives of the saint.

Most of the Trefoils exhibit the curious habit of regularly
going off to sleep. When in this condition they may be observed
with their leaves usually reflexed towards the stem. In the
majority of cases, this strange predilection is the means adopted
by Nature to protect the sensitive parts from the injurious effects
of an extreme reduction of temperature, by radiation of heat into
space during the night season. The leaflets of the Wood Sorrel
respond very freely to the influence of light, and rise or fall
according to the power of the sunbeams. It approaches the
nearest of all the British species to a sensitive plant — not only
closing its petals and drooping its bright green leaves at sunset,
but with every unfavourable atmospheric change. But why
they should adopt the recurved position — so different from the
general plan — and expose the surface instead of the back

MIDSUMMER. 23

of the leaf, does not appear to be as yet very satisfactorily
explained.

The chaste little Woodruff (Asperula odorata), is not very
plentiful in Ardclach, but at the same time there need never
be much difficulty in coming across a bed or two among
the sheltered crannies along the Findhorn. When dry, the
whole plant is delightfully fragrant, and retains its sweetness
for many years, as well in the wardrobe as in the Herbarium —
recalling to mind the pleasant odour of a hay-field. The old
herbalists maintained that there was a charm, even in the name
when spelt by a succession of double vowels and consonants, thus
— W-oo-dd-r-oo-ff-e.

Another modest flower which loves to luxuriate among the
low herbage in the same habitat, is the Wild Strawberry (Fragaria
vesca). The small red fruit — the true ancestor of the queen of
garden delicacies — can scarcely be missed during a stroll along
the valley of the Findhorn about the end of June or beginning of
July. The early appellation was very appropriately that of
Earthberry, because the fruit rests on the ground. It was not,
however, till some time after its artificial development that it
occurred to the gardener that the " berry " would be better
protected if the rows were lined with straw, and thus conferred
the modern name.

Here too, in the character of a wild mountaineer, is to be found
the Rowan, or Quicken Tree (Sorbus aucuparia). It never attains
to a great size, but is airy, light, and adorned with the freshest
foliage. The nearly erect branches bear large tufts of corymbose,
cream-white flowers, but the period of its most attractive beauty
is when these are succeeded by the glowing red berries with
which every bough is laden in the following Autumn.

From the earliest times Rowan trees have been held in the
highest veneration on account of their supposed magical properties,
believed to contain a sovereign remedy against the subtlest spells
of an all powerful and mysterious witchcraft. Less than a century

24 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ago the following rhymes might have been heard in frequent use
among rural peasants : —

11 Kowan tree and red thread, put the witches to their speed."
Or,

" Keep Rowan tree and Woodbine, lest the witches should come in."

For this reason it was often planted near dwelling houses, and
even far up in the mountain glens, its existence at the present
day almost certainly marks the site of an old Highland Shieling.
The Rowan wood was feared by every Evil Power, and that for a
very good reason. The witch, we are assured, who was touched
with a branch of this tree by a christened man, knew full well
that she would thereafter become the certain victim of the Arch
Enemy when he returned to claim his periodical tribute from his
earthly subjects. This belief is referred to in the following

lines : —

' • O pleasant is the fairy land,
And happy there to dwell,
But aye, at every seven years end,
We pay a tiend to Hell."

In my own early days I knew an old woman who never locked
the door of her house, when she went from home, without taking
the precaution to neutralise the malign influences of witches and
warlocks over her goods and chattels. This she did by affixing a
sprig of Rowan to the keyhole, and under no circumstances
whatever would she risk herself abroad without carrying a piece
in her basket or somewhere about her person.

Stumps of this tree have occasionally been found in grave-yards
and within the stone circles of the Druids — relics, no doubt, of
those planted there for the purpose of casting a sacred shade over
the remains of the departed. There is an old superstitious belief
.scarcely yet forgotten among woodmen, that he who cuts down a
Rowan will die within the next six months.

Some fine specimens of the Beech (Fagus sylvaticus), are to be
seen in the grounds near Lethen House. From the graceful habit
of its wide spreading branches, often drooping almost to the

MIDSUMMER. 25

ground, it becomes, in favourable situations, a very ornamental
tree. It is said of the timber that "if a Beech be felled in
midsummer, the wood will last three times longer than that cut in
Winter." The fruit is the well-known Beechmast, which in flavour
resembles the hazel nut, but is not held in any great esteem in
this country. Although vegetation does not thrive very well
under its shade, yet some of the botanist's rarest treasures are
peculiar to a Beech-grove. It bears pruning in a high degree, but,
curiously enough, refuses to cast its withered leaves during Winter,
when, from the frequent application of the woodman's bill, it has
been prevented from assuming the ordinary tree-like form.
There are in the parish a few introduced specimens of the Blood
variety. The original was a single plant found by accident in the
Black Forest of Germany, but what peculiar condition of
environment gave rise to such a permanent deviation from the
normal colour, no one as yet has been able to explain.

The Ash (Fraxinus excelsior), although a native of this country
and of frequent occurrence in the district, has in no case reached
in Ardclach, the magnificent proportions attained by a few
specimens in the neighbouring parish of Cawdor. To an
umbrageous form of great elegance, it unites a graceful arrange-
ment of its boughs with a feathery lightness of foliage, which,
according to Virgil, entitles it to rank as the most beautiful
among the trees of the wood — " Fraxinus in sylvis pulcherrima."
Notwithstanding a mist of gross superstition, in which this tree
has been enveloped from an early period by the common people
in England, it is pleasant to notice that no trace of their absurd
beliefs have ever been met with in this district.

That the Oak (Quercus pedunculata) is king of the forest,
none will dispute. In Ardclach there are no specimens at
present which deserve any special attention. It is evident,
however, from the enormous trunks which have been found
embedded among moss, that this was not the case in former times.
Much of the wood of this buried oak is still seemingly as fresh

26 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

and hard as it was six or eight centuries ago. By many it is
greatly prized as a material for constructing useful and ornamental
articles of household furniture.

The fruit of the oak is the well known acorn or " oak corn >r
which supplied our forefathers with no small amount of their daily
fare, and that too with no unfavourable results, as might be
expected if we credit the poet who sang of those who

" Fed with the Oaken mast,
The aged trees themselves in age surpassed."

Despite the honours which have been heaped upon this tree in
all ages, it has, from time immemorial, been regarded in our own
country as a special conductor of the lightning fluid, as recorded
in the following lines : —

" Beware of the oak ; it draws the stroke ;
Avoid an ash ; it courts the flash ;
Creep under the thorn ; it will save you from harm. "

The moorland and river scenery of Ardclach is indebted for not
a little of its romantic beauty to the airy gracefulness of the Birch
(Betula alba), both erect and weeping. On the Findhorn banks
the presence of its light transparent form quivering against the
sky, adds an additional fascination to the scene. It enjoys a
special charm of its own, and impresses the landscape in these
uplying regions with a richness of verdure which is pleasingly
diversified in all the subtlest shades of living green. In the early
Spring it delights and refreshes the eye, while at the same time it
corrects the dull monotony experienced during the foregoing
Winter. To it we owe that wonderful mixture of ever changing
hue which lends such a pleasing enchantment both to the river
margin and the mountain slope throughout the closing weeks of
Autumn.

Among the many virtues, real or supposed, which were formerly
ascribed to it, was a strong belief that it was possessed of very
valuable stimulant and alterative properties in connection with
the scholastic and domestic training of youth. The man, it was
said, who first planted a birch beside the school door deserved to

MIDSUMMER. 27

be commemorated as an eminent benefactor to the human race. It
is well, however, to be able to say that its ancient reputation has
greatly fallen away, so that it is now, scarcely if at all, feared as
the " afflictive birch, cursed by unlettered idle youth." In
byegone days these poor creatures had good cause to regard it
with dismay, as we learn from an old author who observed,
<( That schoolmasters and parents do terrify their children with
rods made of birch."

When full grown this tree is subject to a curious affection,
which causes dense tufts of twigs to grow out here and
there upon the branches, sometimes in large numbers upon a
single specimen. During Summer these bunches are concealed by
the foliage, but in Winter when the anatomy is more particularly
laid bare, they show conspicuously, looking like a number of
dilapidated nests of the previous nuptial season. They are known
in Scotland as " witches' knots."

The Bird Cherry (Prunus padus), is occasionally placed among
the rarer plants occurring in this country. It is, however, not
only abundant on both sides of the Findhorn, but exceptionally
large and vigorous, Locally, as well as throughout the Lowlands
it is popularly called Hagberry. It may easily be recognised by
the copious sprays of snowy white flowers adorning the river
banks very picturesquely during the month of May. Generally
speaking, it may be considered as a giant shurb or dwarfish tree,
but any one who has seen the fine specimens which luxuriate near
Glenferness House, will admit that, in a congenial situation, it is
capable of developing its stature to a fairly sized tree. The
"cherries," which are really drupes, are small with a sweetish
subacid taste which renders them rather unpleasant to the palate.

By the end of May the Scotch Pine (Pinus sylvestris) is in full
flower. The wild and picturesque beauty of this tree harmonises
so perfectly with the sublime features of its natural environments
that each, even at a glance, appears to have been created to suit the
•other. Here we cannot do better than quote the description

28 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

penned by a late neighbouring proprietor — Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder. He says : — " When its foot is amongst its own Highland
heather, and when it stands freely on its native knoll of dry
gravel, or thinly covered rock, over which its roots wander far, in
wildest reticulation, while its tall, furrowed, gften gracefully
sweeping red and grey trunk of enormous circumference, raises
aloft its high umbrageous canopy ; then would the greatest sceptic
on this point be compelled to prostrate his mind before it in a
veneration, which, perhaps, was never previously excited by any
other tree."

It may be well to notice here the difference in appearance
presented to the eye, between this tree and its sister species, the
Spruce and Larch. The Scotch Fir develops a flat crown of
narrow green leaves, and is in reality a Pine and not a Fir as it is
usually called. The other two are conical in shape, and belong
to the class of true Firs. The Scotch Fir is a slow growing tree,
producing a tough consistent " deal," and has in consequence,
become one of the most valuable of the European Coniferse.

Another evergreen aromatic shrub, pretty frequent in Ardclach
and very characteristic of the woodland and hill side, is the
common Juniper (Juniperus communis). It produces numerous
currant-like cones, locally known as " Aitnoch or Melmot Berries."
As it takes two seasons to ripen the seeds, the flower along with
the green and matured fruit may be found at the same time on
any fertilised bush. The wood is valuable, though seldom, if ever,
of sufficient size with us ; but the " berries " are often collected and
put into spirits for the sake of their tonic properties. Curiously
enough, each of the Highland clans Stewart, Murray, Ross and
Gunn, claims to wear it upon their armorial shields as the
distinctive plant of their respective families.

Towards the end of the month there may be found at the foot
of the Bell Hill on the river side two somewhat rare plants within
the parish. The one is the pretty Loose Strife (Lysimachia
reputed in the writings of the old herbalists as a sure

MIDSUMMER. 29

reconciler of those who were " foolish enough to waste their time
in envy, hatred and malice, by quarrelling over their domestic
affairs." The other is the graceful Melic Grass (Melica nutans),
which is sure to arrest the attention of even the least botanical
when noticed for the first time. From its early appearance, and
the fact that it succeeds well in open situations ought to secure
for it some interest on the part of the farmer. The generic name
is derived from the Latin word Mel, which signifies honey, and is
given to it on account of the sweetness found in the stem.

The Common Holly (Flex aquifolium), appears to be quite at
home as a wildling in the woods throughout the parish. It forms
a beautiful ornament in any situation, and is always a great
favourite during the Winter months. This truly handsome tree —
the only British example of the family — is distinguished by its
upright growth, the prickly leathery evergreen leaves, in addition
to its pink flowers and bright red berries. As it becomes an
almost impenetrable hedge — ever fresh and verdant — it might
with propriety be more widely employed for this purpose, while
at the same time largely improving the general aspect in the
barer agricultural districts. The name " Holly Tree," is said to
have originated in former times from the practice of decorating
the churches with its branches and berries for the religious
services at Christmas.

Another family well represented here is the Lychnis. The
different members ornament alike the meadow as well as the river
bank. One is commonly known as the Ragged Robin, or Cuckoo-
flower (Flos cuculi), because Linnaeus observed that it was always
in full blossom when the cuckoo arrived in Sweden. Its pretty
pink petals look as if they had been accidentally torn ; and they
flutter about in the breeze like the rags of an Irishman's coat after
a turn or two at Donnybrook Fair. The Red (diurna) and the
White (vespertina) Campions are plentiful by the footpaths in the
sheltered hollows along the Findhorn. They produce flowers of
opposite sexes, and, curiously enough, the female of the first and

30 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the male of the second appear to be common, while the male of
the first and the female of the second are rather scarce. The
White Campion — the modest consort of the Red — gets its specific
name from the curious fact that it gives out no smell by day, yet
in the evening, after five o'clock, its flowers emit .a strong and
very pleasant fragance. A fourth member of the same tribe is the
Corn Cockle (L. Githago), locally known as " Papple," and only
recently introduced to the county among seed-wheat from
England.

Perhaps the handsomest of all the British Flora is the Buckbean
(Menyanthes trifoliata) called in Moray and Nairn, the " Water
Triffle." It occurs in large quantities in most of the upland
mossy ponds, and is the sole representative of its genus in this
country. Notice the habitat, the creeping stem with its large
clover-like leaves, as well as the long spikes of feathery rose-
tinted flowers and the identification should be easy. The
exquisite loveliness of its blossoms is entirely due to a beautiful
arrangement of lace-like hairs within the corolla which makes it
impossible for any insect, except those strong enough " to cross "
its vital organs with pollen, to descend and rob the nectaries of
their contained sweets. The leaves, in former times used as a
substitute for hops in the Highlands, are powerfully bitter, and
there is medical authority for the statement that this plant
contains a valuable principle which, when extracted, has often
proved helpful as a tonic to those suffering from weakly
stomachs.

All over the dry pasture lands one can scarcely overlook, in
its season, the humble Milk Wort (Poly gala vulgaris), so named
because cows were supposed, on partaking largely of it among
their food, to yield increased quantities of milk and butter. The
structure of the flower is curious ; nor has its physiology been
hitherto very satisfactorily explained. The petals occur in all the
shades of purple, pink, lilac, and pure white, while the leaves vary
considerably in size on different individuals. Vying even with

MIDSUMMER.

31

the buckbean in chaste beauty, just pull a sprig, place it under a
hand lens, and then say if ever you saw a sweeter fairy gem.
And now advancing along the hillside we exclaim : —

" 0 the Broom, the yellow Broom,
The ancient poets sung it,
And sweet it is in Summer days
To lie at rest among it."

Perhaps there is no other country in which both it and its near
relative the Whin thrive so well as in our own. What brown
knoll or burn side would be complete without the presence of
either or both, dressed in all the magnificence of golden array,
and ever enlivened throughout the warm Summer hours with the
constant humming of the busy bees ? Without doubt the Broom
is the more elegant of the two, although, perhaps, not so gorgeously
rich in the compact mass of brilliant colour displayed by a well
grown whin bush in a favourable situation. The latter forms a verjr
substantial hedge and is extremely pretty when in full blossom.
Should the weather be in any degree mild, flowers may be found
upon it all the year round — hence the proverb, " When the Whin
is out of bloom, love is out of season." Thus it was, that
Linnaeus having never seen a Whin in the full glory of its
inflorescence in his own Northern land, became so enthusiastic
at the spectacle when he beheld it for the first time on Hounslow
Heath, sheeting the moor with its profusion of yellow blossoms,
that he immediately fell on his knees in grateful delight and
thanked God for having created a sight so beautiful. Withal, it
is a delicate plant, and will not stand much severe cold. The
intense frost which occurred in January 1895 almost extinguished
it in Ardclach

Every one knows that hive bees are very fond of visiting the
Broom flowers for the sake of the honey and pollen which they
find so abundantly upon them. In return for these supplies an
important service is conferred upon the vital organs of
the plant. In alighting upon the outstanding petals of any fully
expanded blossom, the weight of the insect combined with its

-32 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

endeavour to reach the honey stores, forces out the pistil as well
as the long and short stamens, in such a mariner that the body of
the bee, after a few visits to successive blossoms, becomes
completely dusted over with broom pollen. Particles of this are,
in due course, transferred to the stigmas of kindred flowers, and
thus exert a valuable interaction, which results in the
gradual modification and development of both.

During some of the oppressively warm days in the month of
August most people have probably had their attention arrested by
the broomy " seed bells crackling in the sun," and may have even
stopped to watch the fairy fusilade, as it was discharged in
honour of the fine weather. After a little careful watching,
perhaps the eye may be able to detect a pod in the very act of
firing off. In one moment it will have twisted up into spiral shape
in the extreme effort of scattering its matured seeds all round.
Should the habitat prove favourable, each will take root downwards
and in a short time become the parent of a future organism, and
thus aid in perpetuating the race for an indefinite period.

These two shrubs are amongst our earliest botanical recognitions.
From childhood, even unknown to ourselves, they continue through
life to retain, with a wonderful tenacity of grasp, a secret hold
upon the affections. Nor do we realise the full power thereof
until we find ourselves secluded, mayhap, in the heart of a great
•city, or settled in some distant clime where either extreme of
temperature proves a complete barrier to their feeblest existence.

With the month of June gay Summer comes in full perfection,
and all Nature rejoices in the rich freshness of her rural beauty.
Some of the wildest and most picturesque scenery in the county
is to be found along the Findhorn in its passage through this
parish. The bed of the stream, from its entrance at the Streeris
to its egress at Daltlich, lies almost continuously between two
natural ramparts. They jut out every here and there in massive
weather-beaten crags, or stretch at times into huge mural pre-
cipices, crested with lichens and shaded with pine, birch, and

MIDSUMMER. 33

hazel, serving to produce the loveliest profusion of light and shade
in every cranny along the mighty trough. Nor are the various
corries and glenlets, running at right angles and pouring in their
tributary torrents, less exquisitely adorned with a soft luxuriance
of trees, bushes, and wild flowers. On all sides, they wave and
smile over shelf and crag and miniature haughs which provide a
.series of cosy nooks where the botanist is sure to fill his vasculum
and reward his search.

The best example is at the Alt-an-airidh Falls. Here the
stream from the neighbouring moor precipitates itself, in a
flickering cascade of broken foam, over an almost perpendicular
rock some fifty feet in height into a thickly wooded amphitheatre.
On reaching the bottom it runs quietly for a short space, when it
enters a narrow gorge, where, struggling and eddying from rapid
to pool, it finally plunges into the river some hundred yards
distant. Standing at the confluence of both waters, and looking
at the main stream in its downward course through an
-exceptionally rough passage, one can scarcely help feeling the
appropriateness of Dr Shairp's " Highland River," from which we
quote a couple of stanzas as being specially descriptive of the
scene before us : —

" Ha ! there he comes, the headlong Highland River !
Shout of a King is in his current strong,
Exulting strength that shall endure for ever.
As lashing down his rocks he leaps along.

( )'er the great boulders, foaming, leaping, bounding,
Thy tawny waters from their loch set free !
Thou callest on the sombre hills surrounding,
To come and join in thine exulting glee."

Amid scenes like these, there is such a display of the " beauteous
sisterhood ' that even on a long Summer day the young student
would be unable to make more than a bowing acquaintance with
.any save the more outstanding individuals, which from every
vantage ground, present their glowing petals for his admiring
.attention.

The Clovers (Trifolium) Red, White and Yellow, are now all

34 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

advancing into full flower, but are so familiar that they need no
description. They form a valuable Summer keep for cattle, as
well as an excellent fodder when dried and stored as hay. Each
of the species, but especially the White, is the delight of bees on

account of the sweet nectar which these insects extract and convert

•

into honey for winter use.

The leaves are rather variable in colour, and often show a dark
spot or whitish horseshoe mark in the centre. These plants, in
common with the Trifoils in general, were venerated in a bygone
generation as potent charms against every evil influence. Cleft
into three sections, they were regarded as types of the Trinity, and
worn by lady, knight, and peasant, to protect them from the
" noisome " spells of witch and wizard. The poet thus alludes to
the ancient practice : —

" Woe, woe to the wight who meets the green knight

Except on his faulchion arm,
Spell-proof he bear, like the brave St. Clair,
The holy Trifoil's charm. "

In withstanding such agencies, a four-bladed clover was par
excellence. " If a man," says an old writer, "walking in the fields,
discovers any grass divided into four parts, he shall in a short
while after find some good thing. Thus the person who carries a
leaf of the four-leaved or cruciform clover about with him will be
successful at play, and have the power of detecting the presence
of evil spirits. The lover may put it under his pillow, and he
will dream of his beloved, or the maiden may, by slipping a leaf
into her cavalier's shoe without his knowledge, as he is about to
set out on a journey, secure his sure and safe return to her
embrace." Like grasses, the clovers play a most important part
in restoring fertility to land which has been exhausted by over
cropping. The leaves gather food — carbonic acid and ammonia—
from the air, which being stored up in the stems and roots,
supply nourishment, after decomposition, for cereals and other
crops which are largely dependent for their support upon the
condition of the soil.

MIDSUMMER. 35

Of the Vetches, about one third of those common to Great
Britain are to be found in Ardclach. The Spring Vetch (Vicia
lathyroides) occurs from time to time on the dry pastures, while
its stronger sisters, the Bush Vetch (V. sepium) and the Hairy
Tare (V. hirsuta) are plentiful in favourable situations. The
Tufted Vetch (V. Cracca), so well known to field labourers, on
account of the " Mice Peas " which they gather from it in the
middle of Autumn is a handsome ornament, with its bright lilac-
purple blossoms so neatly arranged in long crowded ranks, as if
for mutual protection. Should you not have done it before,
carefully remove a single flower from the common peduncle, place
it in the palm of your hand, and you will be delighted with the
perfect miniature image of a fan-tail pigeon which it so wonderfully
resembles. The Heath Pea (Lathyrus macrorhizus) is widely
distributed over the moors, but the taste which obtained in olden
times for the " Gnapperts," as the underground tubers were called}
has long since decayed, and that too, even among the young who
so ofien manifest a strange tendency to revel in abnormal
delicacies.

On the moorland pastures, where the soil is fairly rich, the
Lady's Mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris) is rather abundant. It
grows close to the ground, and bears corymbs of curious yellow
green flowers. Its prettily plaited leaves are objects of great
beauty, even to those who take only a very superficial view of
Nature's perfect ornamentation in each of her many departments.
In the hagiology of the Middle Ages the departed saints occupied
a very prominent place, and the monkish herborizers of those
days intensified their devotion by dedicating many of the
commoner plants to their blessed memories. Accordingly some
pious botanical churchman, struck with the neat and graceful
shape displayed by the leaves of this humble flower, imagined
that he saw in them an exact image of the garment worn by the
Virgin Mary, and so conferred the popular name. If a young leaf
be plucked, immersed in water and examined on either side,

36 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

it shows a perfect rainbow of lovely tints all over the surface.
This peculiarity is always a delightful source of wonder and
admiration to old and young, when the fact has been pointed out
to them for the first time. Its Northern sister, Alpina, found
but sparingly in our altitude, quite eclipses if in the shining
satiny lustre of the deeply cut and finely serrated leaves, which
rival on the under side, the most brilliant productions of the
modern loom.

On the rough ground which fostered the growth of the Lady's
Mantle, one can scarcely fail to come across a bed or two of the
Wild Thyme (Thymus serpyllum), so well known for the pleasant
fragrance which it so " abundantly flings to the winds " as
" morning incense," from its sweetly scented leaves. Springing
beside it among the heath, there is quite another gem almost
wholly confined to these Northern parts. This is the Chickweed
Winter Green (Trientalis europcea). It rises on a slender stem
to the height of some four inches, and throws out a whorl
of smooth green leaves. From their centre, usually one, but
sometimes two, or even three, elegantly formed white flowers
again spring with the utmost grace and delicacy. The simple
laafy, but especially the septenary division of the organs of
fructification, will enable anyone at once to identify this truly
floral beauty.

Perhaps the showiest and most stately of all the British Flora
is the Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) or the Deadman's Bells, as
it is called in Moray and Nairn. The simple, erect, tapering
leafy stems, the large ovate leaves, and especially the campanu-
late flowers in long leafy clusters, distinguish this species almost
at a glance. There is no other representative of the genus in this
country, but it occurs very frequently with a few varieties on
light sandy banks all over the district. When in the full display
of its tasselled inflorescence it forms such a gorgeous spectacle
that travellers are often reminded of similar displays in tropical
countries.

MIDSUMMER. 37

The villain who altered the popular orthography from Folk's-
glove to Foxglove has done much to remove the poetry, as well as
the pleasing associations of fairy land, from our noblest British
wildling. This was the veritable plant from which the "good
folks" were supplied with gloves — delicately tinted silken coverings
fit for the hands of such dainty people. Beautiful though it
undoubtedly is, the leaves and their preparation have a very
bitter taste. The peculiar principle acts with powerful results
upon the human vital organs. In large doses it produces violent
vomiting, which may be beneficial in preventing its absorption into
the system. Although eminently valuable, it ought never to be
administered without the prescription of the medical man, as it
has an awkward tendency to accumulate secretly, and after a
time become suddenly active — producing the most alarming
symptoms, and even death. The following lines are said to
describe its effects : —

" The Foxglove's leaves with caution given,
Another proof of favouring Heaven,

Will happily display ;
The rapid pulse it can abate,
The hectic flush can moderate.
And blest by Him whose will is fate,

May give a lengthened day. '

Though often found growing apparently wild, the common
Elder (Sambticus niger), or Bourtree, as it is called in Scotland,
was almost certainly planted by the early peasantry as a screen
fence about their cottage gardens, now long since forsaken. The fine
flavour of the berries, used as the basis of the famous elder-flower
wine of the last century, has been long known, while the matured
wood is often employed as a substitute for box, in making many
useful articles. The electrician selects its dried pith for his most
delicate experiments, and school boys have from time immemorial
converted the hollowed stems into their simple pop guns. In the
Middle Ages there was a general belief that it not only supplied
the logs of which the Cross was constructed, but that it was the
very tree on which Judas himself committed suicide. Hence the

38 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

following rhymes were often addressed to it : —

11 Bourtree, bourtree, crooked rung,
Never straight, and never strong,
Ever bush, and never tree
Since our Lord was nailed to ye. "

as also the old fashioned lines

" Judas, he japed, with Jewish siller
And si then on an elder tree, hanged himself."

This, tree, as well as the laurel, the mountain ash, the rue and the
peony were planted in gardens and about dwellings as bulwarks
against the dreaded attacks of demons to whom these plants were
supposed to be intolerable.

One of the most abundant of all the wild plants, either in
garden or field or by the wayside is the Shepherd's Purse (Capsella
Bursa Pastoris). It is familiar to the peasantry along the Moray
seaboard as " Witches' Pouches " from the old belief that these
airy beings used its triangularly shaped capsules as the secret
repositories of their enormous wealth. Few plants have been
more strongly endowed with the power of adapting themselves to
the extreme conditions of climate and soil over the world than
this ubiquitous little organism. Thus, in Great Britain, it may be
found in flower throughout a great part of the year, and
consequently the reproductive system may, at almost any season,
be examined at the least possible inconvenience. First come the
blossoms in the shape of a corymb which gradually developes into
a lengthened raceme loaded with the full and empty " purses "
according as the obversely set " pouches " ripen their seeds and
scatter their contents all around. Much of the interest which
might have attached to this plant has been disregarded on account
of the great trouble it causes as a very persistent weed.

The next Order is the curious Orchis Family. There is one
peculiar feature in connection with their vital organs which often
greatly puzzles the young botanist. The stamen and pistil are
consolidated into one common mass and known to science as the
column. The upper surface alone is distinguishable by bein

MIDSUMMER. 39

slightly moist and lies just below the stamen pouches. In some
foreign specimens the irregular petals assume many very grotesque
forms, bearing in several instances not a little real, or fancied
resemblance to animals, insects, and even man himself. The local
species are very prominent objects of beauty and are general
favourites in the districts where they occur. Three are highly
fragrant— Gymnadenia, conopsea, and albida, as well as Habenaria
bifolia which grows in considerable abundance on the Achagour
moors. One can scarcely fail to recognise an orchis after having
once examined any single individual, The sweet odour is at
times even more attractive than the handsomely coloured flower
spikes, but few are of any economic value.

In the lower parts of the parish the Wood Hyacinth (Agraphis
nutans) is to be found, though rather sparingly. The drooping
clusters of bright blue bells each of which is composed of six
separate, but con ni vent parts, form objects of great beauty,
waving over the dark green sward on a breezy day in mid Summer.
The sweet scent emitted from a bed where it grows in profusion
is strong and exceedingly pleasant. In all ages it has ever been
a chief favourite.

In some of the shady dells in Dulsie Wood it may be accounted
a lucky find should we come across the Enchanter's Nightshade
(Circoea lutetiana.) It may be easily recognised by the somewhat
heart-shaped leaves, the two white petals, occasionally tinted
with pink, and its double celled seed vessel. Curiously enough,
it possesses no remarkable properties. Why, therefore, it should
have been called after Circe, Homer's famous sorceress— the
entrance to whose palace was guarded by wolves and lions
transformed from human beings by her baneful arts — is not very
easily explained.

It is gratifying to notice here that the famous Linnsea is,
without doubt, a veritable wildling in the Parish of Ardclach.
On the 29th June, 1890, when accompanied by my friend, Mr
Moir of Bombay, we discovered a bed in full flower in the Dulsie

40 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Wood at an elevation of 664 feet. So far as I have been able to
find, this is the only known habitat in Nairnshire. It is quite
common in Scandinavia, but more especially in Lapland, where
it is often found so lavishly scattered over large districts, that in
some parts the surface is literally covered with it.

This elegant lictle creeper is a beautiful evergreen shrubby
perennial, with slender branches, some two or more feet in length,
which trail along the ground among the thick foliage of the
heather and blaeberry, bearing small opposite broadly ovate
leaves slightly toothed at the top, the prostrate stems every here
and there send up erect filiform flower stalks, which fork near
the summit and produce two gracefully drooping, highly fragrant
bell-like blossoms of a pale pink colour and almost half an inch in
length. The corolla is campanulate, narrow at its base, spreading
upwards, and dividing into five nearly equal lobes, which are
variegated internally with rosy and yellow patches.

The great interest attaching to this plant consists in the fact,
that the Father of Botany selected this humble growth as the
medium through which he desired that his name should be
transmitted to posterity, because he thought its appearance and
lowly habits were very suitable emblems of his own early con-
dition. The modern name, Linnsea, was originally conferred by
Gronovius, a Dutch botanist, who, in honour of his distinguished
friend, substituted it instead of the old genus Nummularia, and,
when in later years the Swedish Government, in recognition of
his splendid talents, raised Linnaeus to the rank of nobility, and
granted him a coat-of-arms, he engraved this tiny blossom on his
seal with the legendary motto, " Tantus amor florum." Accord-
ingly, in fitting sympathy with this fond attachment, we usually
find that the artist has very appropriately represented the great
naturalist as wearing a sprig of his favourite flower gracefully
peeping out in modest beauty from the button-hole of his coat.

The curious Hippuris, or Mare's Tail, is not common, but may
be found sparingly in shallow mossy tarnlets over the moors.

MIDSUMMER. 41

The jointed stem, so like an Equisetum with its whorled oblong
leaves, will greatly help in settling a plant which has often been a
puzzle to the young botanist. There is no flower. Only one little
stamen and a single style are all that it can boast of in this way.

Another aquatic companion with a branched reddish stem
bearing one or two dingy purple flowers, and so resembling a
strawberry, that it may at once be put down as a very near
relative — it is the Marsh Cinquefoil or Potentilla comarum. A
leaf divided into seven pinnae is always a great prize. Placed
under the pillow the sleeper will not only dream of his or her
true lover, but be as certain of a happy union as anything
doubtful can be. So runs the legend.

Near it on the bank of some water course may be found the
Water Avens (Geum rivale), with its dull orange nodding
blossoms, growing about a foot or more high and sending out
large interruptedly pinnate leaves from the root. This is the
Herba benedicta of the old herbalists who tell us that " Where
the root is in the house the Devil can do nothing, but flies from
it ; carried on the person no venomous beast can harm it ; where-
fore, this plant is blessed above all other herbs."

Here comes a rather dwarfed specimen of the Silver Weed
(Potentilla anserina.) The good folk of the Midland English
counties are said to have made a preparation from it which could '
remove those unsightly pits in the skin which were caused by
smallpox. Happily, in our day there is little necessity for any
one putting its reputed virtues to the test. It does not thrive
very well in Ardclach, but in the lower districts of Moray and
Nairn, the edible roots were well known to our forefathers as
" Mascorns," and not so long ago eagerly sought for by boys and
girls whose keen appetites appreciated them as rare dainties.
The yellow flowers bear a great resemblance to Butter Cups, and
the delicately cut leaves are remarkable for their beautifully
white silky gloss on the under side, and hence the trivial name,
Silver Weed.

42 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

By the time the oats are well into blade, not a few fields appear
quite ablaze in one gleam of golden yellow, owing to the presence
of a very pertinacious weed. This is the Charlock or Wild
Mustard (Sinapis arvensis). Although entirely an uninvited guest,
it thrives in perfect safety among the corn, or rather graciously
permits this crop to live beside itself. There is no effectual mode
by which it can be cleared out other than by the impracticable
one of cutting it down from year to year before it has had time
to ripen a single seed.

Growing in close companionship, one may be pretty sure to
meet the Common Spurge (Euphorbia helioscopia). This plant
ought to be of some general interest because it contains an acrid
milky juice peculiar to the Order, somewhat dangerous if applied
to the skin through carelessness, though in particular, it was
famed, and justly so, as a remedy for the easy and effective
removal of warts — a disfiguring and very uncomfortable cuticular
disease much more frequent at one time than it fortunately is now.

The orange coloured Hawk\veeds, a genus so often mistaken
for dandelions, are at times only too abundant in many a hay
field. They received their early name from a prevalent fancy
that eagles, hawks, and kindred birds were wont to use the
juices for the purpose of strengthening their eye sight. But Dr
Withering suggests that the idea may have arisen from observing
the black and yellow mixture which in some of the specimens
very much resemble an eagle's eye in appearance, and hence by
the Doctrine of Signatures, the consequent belief that " like cures
like."

By this time the Meadow Eattle (Khinanthus Crista-galli) is in
full inflorescence, and delights to exhibit its dark spotted stems
bearing their yellow, purple beaked corollas in the same cultivated
localities. Observe the square rough stalks, the sessile serrated
leaves with the spiked flowers, and there should be no difficulty in
settling its identity. The name is derived from the noise made
by the loose seeds in its compressed quickly matured capsule.

MIDSUMMER. 43

June is now fast drawing to a close, but it has been, indeed,
a period of great floral display. Not a few plants which possessed
peculiar beauties have been passed over. The more, however,
that any one studies the subject, the more certain will it be
that these neglected ones too, shall have to yield up their hidden
charms, not only for the pleasure but more to the increasing
wonder and delight of the botanical student.

Truly the " Spirit of Beauty " is now abroad in every meadow,
wood, and vale, and the air is redolent with the perfume of
countless blossoms, rich and varied as the hues of the rainbow
itself. Even the brown moor now rejoices in its verdant spots,
starred with the loveliest wild flowers which deck each bank,
glen, and glenlet, to the less trodden paths among the Aitnoch
Hills. The astrologers of old, who professed from an intimate
acquaintance with the sidereal heavens to reveal the secret things
in human fate, believed that an intimate relation existed between
plants and planets. According to them, there was not a single
species but was an unfailing remedy for one or other of the many
ills to which flesh is liable, or as Shakespeare has it : —

" There are many, for many virtues excellent,
None but for some, and yet all different."

In their selection these herborizers were mainly guided by the
old Doctrine of Signatures — long an undisturbed article of
botanical faith. It taught that every plant bore on some part a
visible sign of its own peculiar virtues. "Though Sin and
Sathan," says an old writer, " have plunged mankinde into an
Ocean of Infirmities, yet the mercy of God, which is over all His
works, maketh G-rasse to grow upon the Mountains, and Herbs
for the use of man, and hath not only stamped upon them a
distinct frame, but also given them particular Signatures whereby
a man may read even in legible characters the use of them." In
accordance with this creed every plant Which produced leaves
more or less shaped like a heart was reputed to be "a singular
good medicine for that organ." Vegetable growths which

44 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

simulated the ears were considered infallible for restoring the
memory and hearing. Thus, the Lungwort's spotted leaves,
as well as the flowers of the Foxglove, clearly showed that
they were designed as remedies in pulmonary complaints, while
the scaly head of the wild Scabious indicated its great value in
leprous diseases when properly prepared. In the same way the
pretty little Eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis), owed its name to
the bright spots and streaks on the corollas somewhat resembling
blood-shot eyes peeping about in all directions. It was, therefore,
in the opinion of the early botanists, good for clarifying the dim
vision brought on by old age. " It has restored sight," says
Culpepper, " to them that have been blind a long tim$ before, and
if it were only as much used as it is neglected, it would half spoil
the spectacle trade." This is the Euphrasy referred to by Milton
when he represents the archangel Michael as purging Adam's
visual nerve, " To nobler sights, for he had much to see." From
the teachings of a later science, however, we learn that the purple
lines converging on the petals are simply Nature's " honey
guides," from the supposed service they render to insects by
enabling them to discover the sweet nectar stored in the cups
beyond.

Coming into flower during this month by the river side there
are two plants rather uncommon in Nairnshire, and, indeed, not
very plentiful over the whole country. These are the Starry
Saxifrage (Saxifraga stellaris), and the Yellow Mountain Saxifrage
(S. aizoides.) By examining the flower of a near relative from
almost any cottage garden — London Pride, or None-so-pretty—
there should be little difficulty in settling each of these remark-
ably pretty wildlings.

Few blossoms are better known or more admired than the Blue
Bell (Campanula rotundifolia.) From its slender gracefulness it
takes a place among our native flora, and even surpasses many a
gaudy specimen in its chaste but beautiful colouring. By the way-
side it is a very frequent companion, and, perhaps, there is not

MIDSUMMER. 45

another flower which makes itself so much at home on the breezy
moorlands as the "nodding hare-bell." In some parts of the
country the inflorescence is called " Witches' Thimbles," and like
all other forms of enchantment they renounce civilization, and
droop and die if removed from their native habitat. In Ardclach
as in other districts, that paradoxical specimen, a white Blue
Bell, is occasionally to be met with.

Many young botanists have been puzzled to find out the round
leaves indicated by the specific name, rotundifolia, but the fact is
that they all wither away soon after the stem appears and before
the flowers have expanded. In every Scotchman's heart the
Blue Bell holds a place second only to his native heather.

This plant too, was a favourite with the fairies — the active wee
folk, who dwelt in the flowers during Summer, and, led by Queen
Mab, trooped out in the evening to dance and enjoy their usual
fun in the pale moonlight —

•' In shape no bigger than an agate stone
On the forefinger of an Alderman."

On these occasions the Hare Bells, by the breath of the gentlest
zephyrs, were said to ring out the most delicate music for their
midnight revels. To the rural peasant, the withered patch in the
green meadow was proof positive that they had been there. But
science, without deference to this romance, has, in these days,
propounded a different theory to account for the formation of the
fairy ball-room.

Eepresentatives of the Bramble family are frequently to be met
with all over the parish. Among them none can mistake the
common Kaspberry (Rubus idoeus), especially when the fruit is
ripe. Jelly from the wild rasp is greatly prized in Nairnshire,
and few will pass its berries on a hot summer day without pausing
to partake. The little Stone Bramble too (R. saxatilis) is likewise
a native, and the slender runners may be often noticed creeping
along the ground by the river side and higher pastures. The
compound drupe when ripe is crimson, arid of a pleasantly acid

46 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

flavour. How many can see the Common Bramble (R. discolor)
and not recall their personal experiences among its very annoying
prickles ? The flowers do not appear on their long tangled stems
till pretty late in the season, but are followed in due course with
their heavily laden clusters, passing from green through dark red
to the purple black of maturity. The fruit is never believed to
be thoroughly ripe until the first frosts of winter set in. Bramble
jelly has a very delicate flavour, and may be found carefully
stowed away in the secret recesses of every goodwife's pantry
throughout the parish.

The plant is a great favourite with entomologists, because so
many insects visit it ; some for the purpose of feeding on the
leaves ; not a few in order that they may suck the flowers ; more
to eat the fruit, and others, such as the dragon-fly and wasp, to
catch their poor victims while they are engaged feeding.

The perennial marshy districts are sure to contain a few very
interesting plants, but their growth is so humble that they are
seldom noticed by other than keen experienced eyes.

" By the lone fountain's secret bed,

Where human footsteps rarely tread ;
Mid the wild moor and silent glen,

The Sundew blooms unseen by men."

From the researches of Hooker and Darwin, most people know
more or less of the carnivorous Dionaea, or flesh-eating plant,
called by Linnaeus, the Miracle of Nature. They may not,
however, be aware that we have, in almost every bog, three
equally wonderful species, any one of which clearly exhibits those
astonishing characteristics so peculiar to the whole race. These
are the Butterwort (Pinguicula vulgaris) ; and the Round and
Long-leaved Sun Dews (Drosera rotundifolia et anglica). The
former derives its popular name from the viscid acid substance
secreted by the leaves, and the two latter from the small dew-like
drops exuded by the red glandular " hairs " which grow at different
lengths on the upper surface and margin of the leaves. This
" dew " is very sticky, and tiny insects — chiefly midges — alighting

MIDSUMMER. 47

imprudently thereon, are caught in the same way that birds are
ensnared on bird lime. Rain drops may fall, or wind blow on it,
but without noteworthy effect — a very necessary provision to
save useless work. The smallest fly, however, stimulates an
increased flow of the fatal secretion, and the struggles of the
victim, in order to regain its freedom, only serve to stir up the
physico-vital energies of the hungry plant. The red " hairs " or
processes immediately begin to bend over the insect, until it is
hopelessly imprisoned and finally starved to death. No sooner
does this occur and the tissues begin to decompose, than the
tentacles commence to prepare a kind of gastric juice which
enables them to appropriate the nitrogenous substances contained
in the dead body, and apply them to the general support. This is
a strange inversion of the Natural Economy — flesh nourishing the
vegetable, instead of the vegetable feeding the flesh. In
experimenting with some of the more vigorous plants, even small
pieces of raw meat are said to have been received and absorbed
into the living organism. This forms a curious connecting link
between the animal and vegetable kingdoms, and is the nearest
approach to anything like a stomach which has yet been observed
among plants. It may be worth noticing that the tentacles
instead of being composed of cellular tissue or simply a
development of the epidermis, contain in their structure spiral
vessels, so that they are prolongations of the fibro-vascular portion
of the leaves, and not of the cellular part only. In these
circumstances it is curious to notice that the roots are employed
almost solely for the purpose of anchorage among the slender
fronds of sphagnum moss, and are therefore less adapted for
sucking up the all important nitrogenous compounds from the soil.
To some extent they cease to perform the usual functions,
delegating this duty, in the most anomalous manner, to their
relative organs, the leaves. The origin and evolution of the
insect catching contrivance is a most difficult question, and is still
a problem for the future.

48 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Although botanists recognise some sixteen species and a few
varieties of wild Roses, yet in Ardclach there are only three.

The Dog Rose (Rosa canina), whose pretty blush blossoms so
exquisitely decorate the woods and roadsides, is very abundant
in all parts. It was so named because the root bark was supposed
to prevent fatal consequences after the bite of a mad dog. In a
wild state it varies considerably in the colouring of its flowers,
— presenting the beautifully graduated shades of deep red, pale,
and almost pure white. The Sweet Briar (R. rubiginosa), or
Eglantine, is chiefly an inmate of the garden or an escape there-
from, and noted for the pleasing fragrance which it exhales from
both flowers and leaves especially after rain. The other is the
Burnet Rose, producing many varieties, and found wild on the
moors at Achagour and Cairnglass. It is remarkable for the
large flower which it bears even when the stems are greatly
dwarfed by poor soil. From a double flowered plant found wild
near Perth, florists have obtained numerous varieties which are
still cultivated in gardens with fine effect.

Those curious pathological excrescences covered with thick
feathery processes looking like bright green and scarlet moss are
familiarly known as " Bedegaurs." They are caused by the
minute puncture and its associated irritation of small winged
insects — Rodites Rosae of the Cynipidse Family — in order to
deposit their eggs in the rudimentary buds. The natural
development is immediately arrested, and a remarkable gall is
gradually formed round the recently deposited egg. Cut one
open towards the middle of Autumn, and in the centre will be
found one or more cells, each tenanted by a small white grub,
which in due course would become transformed into a partheno-
gentic fly and gnaw its way out at the proper time.

Every one has noticed in the corn fields the showily coloured
Blue Bottle, or Centaurea Cyanus. It is greatly admired on
account of the wreath-like circle of outer barren florets so richly
dyed in deep cerulean hues.

MIDSUMMER. 49

The Ox Eye, or Horse Gowan (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum)
has large white flowers, pretty much like an overgrown daisy, and
is often a rather troublesome weed, being perennial with a
creeping brittle root-stock. Its gaudy sister, the Yellow Corn
Marigold (C. segetum) is an annual, and was the source, in former
times, of no small annoyance and loss to the farmers in this
locality, especially along the seaboard of both counties, taking a
prominent place in the old couplet : —

" The Guile, the Gordon, and the Hoody Craw,
Are the three worst foes that Moray ever saw. "

The Sneezewort (Achillea Ptarmica) is pretty frequent near the
arable ground, and is so named from the strong odour emitted by
the whole plant. The scientific generic name is relative to Achilles,
the famous Grecian hero, who is said to have used it for the
purpose of healing the sword cuts of his warriors, and hence one
of its trivial names is the Soldier's Wound Wort. There was a
belief among the Celtic races that if the Milfoil or Yarrow be cut
during moonlight by a young woman with a black-handled knife,
and the same night placed under her pillow, she would certainly
dream of her future husband. The mystic plant had, in the first
place, to be saluted in Gaelic, and the charm is substantially in
the following lines : —

" Good morrow, good morrow, fair Yarrow,

And thrice good morrow to thee,
Come tell me before to-morrow
Who my true love shall be. "

The flower-heads are bigger, and therefore fewer than those of its
companion plant, the well-known Thousand-Leaved Grass (A.
millefolium) from the beautifully segmented character displayed
by the leaves. Both are strongly aromatic and an infusion of the
tender shoots is reputed to be a good remedy for headache. The
root being pungent and bitter, induces, when chewed, a copious
flow from the salivary glands, and was therefore frequently
resorted to as a cheap and perhaps effective cure for toothache.
Here comes a general favourite, decking the margins of the

50 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

streams for many weeks daring the Summer and Autumn months.
It has, very appropriately, been named Queen of the Meadow
(Spirea ulmaria — quod non inter ulmos, strangely enough,
because it does not grow among the elms !) The early name
was Mead wort, that is, the mead or honey wine herb — for the
reason that if " the flowers be mixed with that beverage it imparts
the flavour of the famous Greek wines." The powerful fragrance
of the foam-like cymes gives it a front place in the list of British
wild plants. It also affords a valuable and elegant substitute for
adhesive plaster in the case of slight cuts. " If the fine dust
which may be obtained from the dryed panicles," says a writer on
the subject, " be applied to a small wound or similar sore, it dries
it up, binding the edges together and so heals the surface."

Now for the Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica), so well known
from the envenomed hairs with which it is so abundantly supplied.
Though a somewhat unpleasant, it is withal a rather useful plant.
In the economy of our grandmothers, the young shoots were
highly valued for making " nettle kale," which they averred
required always to be partaken of early every season, in order to
keep the system in a healthy condition during the rest of the year.
Like the potato and arrowroot, the acrid juices become perfectly
harmless after boiling, but the peculiar flavour which remains finds
few to relish it in the present day. According to the legend
even consumption was amenable to the benign influences of its
powerful virtues, for it asserted,

" If they drank Nettles in March, and ate Muggins in May,
Sae mony braw lasses wadna gang to the clay. "

The hairs are constructed on the same principle as the serpent's
fang, being tubular and contain a poison gland at the base from
which the formic acid is ejected into the wound. If possible, the
smaller species (Urtica urens), common in most gardens, is even
more annoying than its more robust cogener, because it lurks quite
unsuspected among the herbage and is only too often felt before
it is seen. Not only were nettles esteemed in former times as an

MIDSUMMER. 51

article of food, but also for the vegetable fibre they yielded for
textile purposes. An old Scotch writer says, " I have eaten
nettles, I have slept in nettle-sheets, and I have dined off a nettle
tablecloth. The stalks of the old nettle are as good as flax for
making cloth, and I have heard my mother say that she thought
nettle cloth more durable than any other species of linen."

On the lower flats shelving out from the hill sides, where there
is always a good supply of damp soil, the Bog Asphodel
(Narthecium ossifragum) may usually be found in great abundance.
Compare the flower with that of the Field Rush and you will be
struck to find that it agrees in all respects except that of colour.
The flower is bright yellow, and beautifully feathered all over the
inside. In former times shepherds, as well as flockmasters, firmly
believed that when sheep ate of it to any extent they always
became affected with a much dreaded disease known to them as
" the liver rot." They assured us that the Asphodel produced a
gradual decay in the bones of the sheep from its nourishing, in
the vital parts, an entozoon which gradually reduced its poor host
to a lingering but certain death. A careful examination into all
the facts has revealed the cause in a purer light. It is now found
that any soil which favours a rapid growth of soft luxuriant
herbage, induces the development of " rot " by enabling the
embryo flukes (distomse) to climb up the grass stems from the
bodies of aquatic Iarva3 in which they passed the early stages of
their existence. When these plants are eaten by sheep, the
cercarise, as they are now called, are carried into the stomach from
which they penetrate into the vital organs where they attain the
full development of an ordinary fluke. ' The parent lays a
countless number of eggs — half a million — but happily for the
comfort of the poor sheep, their life history is very intricate and
beset with hazards. Failures by the thousand, occur at every
step, so that comparatively few ever reach the adult condition.

The Perforated St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum)— a
famous plant in flower lore — is both a common and a beautiful

52 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

wildling in the North. The blossoms are regular, with bright
yellow petals growing compactly on a branching stem. Notice
the curious tiny black dots on the floral margins with the pellucid
markings which appear upon the leaves when they are held
between you and the light. In former times they were believed
to have been produced by the pricks of a needle by His Sable
Majesty through spite at the inconvenient virtues of the plant.
According to the legend it was specially dedicated to St. John
the Baptist, and was reputed to have a peculiar power in nerving
the possessor to overcome the most skilful allurements of Evil
Spirits. Sometimes it was called Fuga Dsemonum or Devilfuge,
because it was regarded as a very dare-devil, and was gathered
on St. John's Eve to be hung up in dwelling houses as a preventive
against thunderstorms and other vile influences. For magical
purposes, it was often burned with no small ceremony in the
annual midsummer fires. The peasantry used to carry it about
on their persons as an antidote again t all kinds of witcheries and
wizardries in a bygone period. They also credited it with
wonderful medicinal properties, though it finds no place in the
pharmacopeia of the regular practitioner in the present day.

CHAPTER III.

By the advent of the month of August we are reminded that the
great Orb of Day has already made considerable progress in retracing
his annual course towards the Winter solstice. The lengthening
nights, accompanied as they usually are, with their crisp, keen
breezes ; the ripening fruits, as well as the gradual lull, day after
day, from the full voiced chorus of our feathered friends — all
serve to admonish us that the season is again rapidly gliding on
from the bright sunny days of Summer to those of a cool, but
pleasantly enjoyable character, commonly experienced in the
succeeding Autumn. In these circumstances, we can scarcely
expect to discover many new additions to the lists of floral
beauty ; still we may be assured that a sufficient number will yet
be found on the hillside and river bank to occupy our attention
and even minister to our delight for several weeks to come.

Chief among these we shall notice a well known friend. There
appears to be considerable diversity of opinion among botanists
of recognised authority as to which of two thistles — the Cotton
or the Spear Thistle — is entitled to the honour of taking rank as
the acknowledged national emblem of our country. As the
former is rare and very doubtfully native in Scotland, we
unhesitatingly pronounce in favour of the Spear Thistle (Carduus

54 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Lanceolatus), which is abundant from Maiden Kirk to John o'
Groats. It is one of the stiffest and most thorny of the family
to which it belongs, being adopted long long ago, and probably
for this very reason, as the badge of the Royal Stewarts. The
description of an old writer is very characteristic*. He says —
" It is set full of most horrible sharp prickles, so that it is
impossible for man or beast to touch the same without great hurt
and danger." Dunbar in his poem entitled " The Thrissell and
the Eois," written in 1503 in honour of the marriage of James
IV. with Margaret Tudor, mentions it as the badge of Scotland ;
and Hamilton of Bargowe expressly states, that the plant was
the " Monarch's choice." For fully a century after, the flower
heads are impressed upon the Scotch coins, all represented with
very little change of figure. This is, no doubt, the one from the
circumstances of its position, to which Burns refers in the
following stanza : —

" The big Bur Thistle spreading wide,

Among the bearded b«re,
I turned the weeder-elips aside
And spared the symbol dear."

According to the legend, this Thistle, like the famous geese of
ancient Rome, is reputed to have saved Scotland from the disgrace
of a national defeat. Ever since, it has continued to be embroid-
ered upon our Standards, while underneath in letters of gold
there is the very appropriate legend as suggested by the British

Solomon :—

" Nemo me impune lacessit."

which ought, as we think, to be translated, not in English, but
by the good old Scotch — " There's nane o' ye daur meddle wi'
me."

Not far away on the drier spots among the heathy pastures,
one may very likely come across a humble silvery looking
Cudweed (Filago Germanica), with its downy white leaves and
hoary stem, some six to ten inches high, bearing a cluster of pale
yellow flowers at the summit. Directly from under this head

AUTUMN. 55

there usually spring two or more secondary branches on opposite
sides of the stalk. In due time these rise to a considerable height
and produce flowers exactly similar to the central one. This
peculiarity obtained for the plant the name of the Herba impia,
from the old botanists, because to them it appeared that the
offspring were impertinently assuming the place of advantage
and honour which belonged to their parents. The Mountain
Everlasting, or Cat's-foot (Antennaria dioica), loving for the
most part to grow in similar habitats, is a very near relative of
the pretty Edelweiss, the famous bridal flower of Switzerland.
As the heads, like it, may be kept for a long time without
undergoing much apparent change, it becomes a fresh favourite
during the Winter months. Especially isjbhis the case when, under
the name of an Immortelle, it goes, in sorrowful affection, to
compose the wreath or love chaplet which is laid on the coffin lid
of some dear departed friend.

One cannot walk far among the moorland pastures at this
season without being attracted by a pretty bluish purple flower
rather under a foot high. It is the Field Gentian (Gentiana
campestris.) In Ardclach there is only one member to represent
the British family of five. It may be readily distinguished in
addition to the habitat by its erect angular stems, opposite leaves,
small azure four cleft flowers, and the tonic principle common to
the genus. Owing to this property it was long used by our
forefathers, ere ever they learned the value of hops, for com-
municating the bitter flavour to beer. It is still employed as a
valuable stomachic in domestic medicine.

In the centre of the corolla there is a curious fringe of hairs
which very much relieves the dull flower tints. The arrangement
is an exceedingly beautiful one, by which the sweet contents in
the nectaries are thoroughly protected from the depredations of
" forbidden guests," or those insects which are so small that their
visits could be of no service to the plant in its all important
work of distributing the fertilising pollen over the tender ovules.

56 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

In addition to their practical use, these minute hairs are, in
numerous instances, a great ornament — decorating the flower, and
thereby rendering it an object of beauty both in the garden and
by the wayside.

For many years after the beginning of the present century,
almost all the cottar houses in this district consisted of old
fashioned black huts, a genuine specimen of which is now rarely
to be met with anywhere. Generally, they were constructed of
neatly-cut square turfs, built alternately upon rude courses of
rough hill stones, and thatched with bracken, heath, or broom,
above a series of outwardly convex rafters, which, resting on the
ground at one end, were united at the other, and held fast by a
strong pin under the ridge. Perhaps the only redeeming
character of beauty noticeable about this " heap of biggit earth "
was the luxuriant crop of House Leek, or Jupiter's Beard
(Sempervivum tectorum), which met the eye on every roof and
greatly helped to relieve the dull and sombre aspect presented by
the exterior. In the Dark Ages when superstition reigned
supreme, an edict was issued by the famous Charlemagne — " Et
habeat quisque supra domum suum Jovis barbam " (and let every
one have Jupiter's Beard on his house.) Such an order only
tended to popularise the custom, and confirm the belief that it
preserved both the inmates and their property from injury during
thunder and lightning storms. The Beard is not native, but
appears to have been originally introduced from the Alps, where
it is still found wild. The leaves, which become thick and
succulent, grow in close rosettes near the ground. The leafy
flowering stems spring from the centre and produce bunches of
light-red star-like blossoms which are as curious as they are
pretty. In Scotland it was known among the peasantry as
Fouets or Fous, while the juice of the bruised leaves had a great
reputation for " Removing corns from the toes and feet, relieving
stings of bees, and curing cuts, burns and scalds."

Even those who are not very botanically inclined must know

AUTUMN. 57

from experience that we possess Burdocks (Arctium commune)
in fair abundance. They are large branching annual plants,
which might be mistaken at first glance for a rough thistle, but
the leaves although broad are neither spinous nor decurrent. The
whole aspect is coarse and somewhat clammy to the touch, while
the globular fruit heads are armed with numerous sharp hook-
like scales, which, in order to a wider dispersion of their species,
have the annoying habit of attaching themselves to anything
soft and movable which may be passing their way. Sheep are
greatly distressed when their fleeces become loaded with burrs,
and children often delight to throw them at their unwary com-
panions, or arrange them along the edges of their garments like
so many rows of massive buttons. Long, long ago, the witty
Greeks used to designate these and such like fruits as " Philan-
thropos," or lovers of mankind, and Shakespeare makes Pandarus
say of his relations : —

" They are burrs, I can tell ye, they
Will stick where they are thrown."

There is scarcely a lea field or grassy roadside all over the
country nowadays which does not produce rather plentifully the
Common Ragweed (Senicio Jacobcea.) , Previous to the rebellion
of 1745 it was unknown in the Highlands. A few of the Genera
are objects of great beauty, and as such are frequently privileged
to occupy an important place even in the greenhouse. The
majority, however, of the ten British species are somewhat coarse
looking plants with erect stems, clothed from the root upwards
with the more or less characteristically torn leaves found upon
this wildling, and bear lax corymbose clusters of bright yellow
composite flowers. None of the domestic animals cares much
for Ragweed, and hence, there is often a considerable loss sus-
tained by the farmer owing to its presence in unusual numbers
over his pastures. It is only within the early memory of
the oldest inhabitants here, that it became anything like
common in this parish, and it is generally known in the North

58 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

by a name not found in any of the standard works on botanical
science.

Soon after the battle of Culloden, we are told that a strange
looking weed was observed to spring up, always in the immediate
vicinity of the various camping grounds occupied "by the English
cavalry, all along the route taken by the Royal Forces as they
pursued the Young Pretender, " The Bonnie Prince Charlie."
The seed was found to have been conveyed among the Southern
oats, and occasionally dropped while the soldiers were feeding
their horses. From the disagreeable smell emitted by the whole
plant, the Highlanders did not take very kindly to the Saxon
intruder. Smarting as they were under the inhuman treatment
inflicted by the jubilant conqueror upon the defenceless inhabit-
ants, the peasantry, in reproachful reference to the heartless
outburst of savage barbarity manifested by William, Duke of
Cumberland, after his first and only victory, contemptuously
named it the " Stinking Willie." Though now fully naturalised,
the stranger is no favourite, and this is the designation by which
it is best known to every man, woman, and child, wherever it
shows itself in this district, even to the present day.

Doubtless, most people have noticed in gardens and damp
fields a very common weed with oblong leaves, showing a dark
central stain, and bearing rosy coloured flowers in compact
spikes. It is the Spotted Persicaria (Polygonum Persicaria),
which as the legend informs us, grew at the foot of the Cross,
and there received its purple blotch from the Sacred Blood which
fell in drops upon the plant during the Cruicifixion. So fixed did
the die become, that neither sun, snow, or rain, through many
generations, has ever been able to wash it off. On the same
authority we have only to put a good handful of it under a
horse's saddle to make him " Travel all the faster, even though
he was quite tired before !"

A very frequent companion is the Devil's-bit Scabious (Scabiosa
succisa.) The deep blue flowers rising above the short stalked

AUTUMN. 59

obovate leaves occur all over the parish. Pull a specimen and
examine the root. At first sight it appears to have snapt in the
centre, and left a portion in the soil. There is nothing wrong,
however, for it is to this " bitten off " character that the plant
owes the specific name, succisa. An old writer says, that through
its agency the Father of Evil, in former times, was in the habit of
working all sorts of malice against our race, but that the Virgin
Mary, out of compassion for them, deprived him of this power.
So deeply grieved was he to think that mankind were again to
have the full benefit of its healing qualities, that in spite, he
" bit off " the lower end and left it as we now find it. The device
would seem to have been perfectly successful, for even the modern
chemist has failed to discover any virtue in the part now left — in
fact, this is said to be the only weed not useful for something.

Who does not remember the happy hours spent in early life
among the hazel nuts 1 During the opening months of Spring,
and even before the snows of Winter had quite disappeared,
the long pendulous tassels bore evidence that brighter days were
near. The nuts are said to ripen with the oats, while the foliage
in the late Autumn like that of the birch and beech, assumes that
rich golden tint which adds materially to the resplendent glory
at this wonderful season.

Among the ancients, there is often reference to a familiar kind
of divination by means of a rod. Nor was the practice altogether
unknown in our own country. Several trees produce wood which
has been considered suitable, but a branch from the Hazel is
beyond all a favourite medium. The Virgula Divina, or
" Wishing Kod," was shaped like the letter Y, and some eighteen
inches in length. When in use, the performer held one diverging
arm in each hand, and moved forward with the unforked part
pointing towards the earth. Should the bearer possess the
requisite " gift," the branch, on crossing a water vein, would
invariably tremble and bend downwards as if responding to
magnetic influences from below.

60 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

In a boggy hollow on the Aitnoch farm, we have gathered some
very fine specimens of the Parnassia palustris or Grass of
Parnassus — a graceful plant which according to popular belief
first appeared on that mountain. To see it in all its loveliness
one must

" Hie to haunts right seldom seen,
Lovely, lonesome, cool and green."

As the habitat is always considerably elevated in this country, it
is familiar only to the fewest number, but the elegantly bright
green leaves on long foot-stalks, with one clasping leaf on the
stem, ought to enable any young botanist to identify this plant
even when the handsome white flowers are absent. If at the
proper time and place, its presence is sure to attract attention
from the snowy corollas, each petal of which is finely streaked
with light greenish lines, already referred to as the " honey
guides." Standing round the inner bases, one can scarcely fail to
observe the curious arrangement of globular headed threads which
so effectively heighten the beauty and charm of an exceedingly
pretty blossom. For a long time their true functions were a
matter of pure speculation among botanists, though it is now
generally admitted that they serve the purpose of protecting the
nectaries from the ravages of those tiny insects which could be of
no service to the plant in fertilising the vital organs.

Where, in all broad Scotland could you expect to find a more
delightful and invigorating scene than on the rolling hill sides, or
breezy moorland flats along the Findhorn, while they are in the
full flush of their purple tints, when

" The moorcock springs on whirring wings
Amid the blooming heather ?"

Surely no sight could be more picturesque or calculated to impress
the mind with a greater sense of freedom and enjoyment than a
few weeks spent, far away from the din of city life, among these
expansive areas spread out in all the display and variety of floral
beauty. In Great Britain, there are only three species of
Heather, and they are all plentiful in Ardclach. The Fine-leaved

AUTUMN. 61

Heath (Erica cinerea) has dark green leaves arranged in threes
along the stem, while the vase-shaped purple flowers are clustered
in regular whorls at the upper end. Then there is that very
beautiful kind : the Cross-leaved Heath (Erica tetralix) which
occurs in the boggier spots, with its leaves grouped in fours, and
the blossoms much the same as the last, but clustered in pretty
wax-like heads at the summit* of the young wiry shoots. It is,
however, the Calluna vulgaris, the true Heather which imparts to
the hill side its chief botanical feature. The flowers differ in form
from the other two. They are not like them pitcher-shaped, but
have divided petals showing open oval blossoms deeply dyed in a
delicate purplish pink colour. It is the only species known.
Now and again isolated plants of the three kinds are found bearing
white flowers so greatly valued by the young cavalier as a delicate
medium by which he often ventures to express growing attachment
to the object of his tenderest affections. The Queen, it may be
remembered, writes in " Leaves from the Journal" respecting an
incident of this kind which occurred to her daughter the Princess
Royal. " During our ride," she says, " up Craig-na-Ban the
Prince Frederick William of Prussia picked a piece of white
heather which he gave to her ; and this enabled him to make an
allusion to his hopes and wishes, as they rode down Glen Girnoch,
which led to this happy conclusion." The Heather is specially
the Highlander's plant, and almost as dear to his heart as the
bagpipe itself. When in Autumn it bursts into full bloom, the
air becomes perfumed with the rich odour of its well stored
nectaries, attracting the bees for miles around from the arable land,
to revel among its sweets. From this floral expanse they extract
a variety of honey, which is slightly darker in shade but richer in
flavour than that obtained from flowers on the cultivated flats.

There was a tradition common among the peasantry that the
Picts who formerly lived in these Northern regions knew how to
brew beer from heather. A popular version, in my early days,
told that the last representatives had encamped themselves within

62 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

a strong hill fortress about fifteen miles from Aberdeen. Here they
were successfully besieged by the dominant Saxons. After some
months the starving garrison surrendered and were all put to
death except the chief and his son. To them the visitors offered
life and freedom upon condition that they would reveal the
process. " If you kill the young man in my presence," said the
father, " and show that you can do it very gently, I shall at once
grant your request," This having been done, the executioners
demanded that he would fulfil his promise. " I am now ready
to die too," was the intrepid reply of the old man. " I was afraid
that threatened cruelty along with the love of life, might have
tempted the lad to tell you all about it, but as there is no fear of
that, I shall be content to follow him by any means you like, for
the mystery is now safe and can never be known."

Few who have paid a visit during August to the Loch of
Belivat — a small moorland tarn — can scarcely fail to remember
the White Water Lily (Nymphsea alba). This plant must,
without doubt, be allowed to take a front rank among the
British Flora. The exceeding purity of these snowy nymphs, as
they reflect their rose-shaped blossoms amid the glossy green
leaves, can hardly be exaggerated. As the rose is admittedly the
Queen of the Garden, so the Water Lily may, with equal propriety,
claim to be the Empress of the Lake. Like the sacred Lotus on
the Nile, the flowers expand their petals as the day advances, but
closing them again at eventide they anew enjoy their midnight
repose in "quivering sleep on the water's breast." As expressed
by Moore : —

" Those virgin lilies all the night,

Bathing their beauties in the lake,
That they may rise more fresh and bright,
When their beloved sun's awake."

The rhizomes creep among the peaty deposit which is accumulat-
ing at the bottom of the loch, and send up numerous, flexible
stalks, several feet in length to the surface where they produce
large, cordate leaves, from four to nine inches in diameter. To

AUTUMN. 63

the taste, they are bitter and astringent, but entirely free from
any poisonous qualities.

Of the two fumitories found in Ardclach, no one need be at a
loss to collect Fumaria officinalis as it grows abundantly on
almost every corn field. It is often a rather persistent weed
where it is not wanted, but usually indicates a good rich soil. In
attempting to prepare a nice specimen for the herbarium you will
soon find that the minutely divided leaves are apparently so
inextricably confused, the one above the other, that the task is
apt to be set aside as one which is likely to prove entirely hope-
less. The White Climbing Fumitory (Corydalis claviculata), is a
rare plant within the parish. We happen to know of only one
bed, but it is so concealed between a thicket of Black Thorn and
an overhanging rocky precipice on the Findhorn as to be rather
difficult to find out. Although generally distributed over the
country, it seems to be less frequent towards the West and North.
It owes its specific designation to the character of the tendrils
with which the leaf-stalks are terminated. The trivial name, on
the other hand, is derived from fumus terrse, or earth smoke,
either on account of the supposed smoky smell and dingy appear-
ance, or from the ancient belief that these plants were produced,
without seeds, from peculiar vapours arising from the soil upon
which they grew. The family was reputed in byegone days to
be possessed of "Remarkable virtues for clearing the skin of
many disorders," and one of the early pastoral poets alludes to
its use as a rural cosmetic.

With September the season of flowers fast draws to a close.
But the tawny Autumn with its cherry cheek and russet brow
seems to have stolen a subtle charm from the previous Summer
to deck, in a new form, its own wonderful panorama of ever
varying Natural beauty. Who among us, in the early Spring,
did not admire the virgin foliage dyed in purest green, ornament-
ing the woodlands and refreshing the eye in restful shades ? The
poor birds, too, welcomed the change from hardship, storm and

64 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

snow. With one glad impulse, the whole community broke out
into grateful song, while many a happy pair began, in hopeful
security, with fussy activity, to construct the family nest in which
to deposit their dearest treasures, under the shelter and conceal-
ment of the leafy branches. In the later Autumn, a scene of
peculiar loveliness gradually steals over the woodland slopes,
draping the whole in richest splendour. As with some magic
touch, the emerald leaves of hazel, birch and beech have all
slowly merged into a pale red, yellow or purple brown, accom-
panied with a thousand tints harmonising in the most wonderful
cominglement of ever changing colour and shade. On the
weighted branches of rowan, gean, or elder tree, the matured
berries hang like so many clusters of coral beads. Moving amid
such scenes the artist becomes quite fascinated as by some
powerful enchantment, while his highest genius totally fails to
depict on the canvas anything save the merest imitation of
Nature's grand masterpiece. But in an absolute sense, this is
not death, as at first sight it seems to be : it is only the benign
repose of conscious power. The mission, therefore, is not closed
when the angry winds have stripped the leaves from the parent
branches and sent their lifeless forms, all crunched and crumpled
up, racing and whirling in skeleton dances, over the fields and
paths even far into the open country. On at last settling down,
these pithless withered things immediately become the prey of
innumerable beetles and other insects, while many stately fungi,
feeding upon them, help in due course, along with the frost and
melting snows, to break up the tissues, and anew make them
ready for further use. Let us glance for a moment at another
most valuable agency. In the quietest way possible, millions of
despised earth-worms are toiling on night and day, incessantly
top-dressing the soil with a very nutritious manure. Their tiny
subterranean passages, constructed for economic purposes, act at
the same time as a complete system of natural drainage, thereby
watering as well as relieving the rootlets from a superabundant

FERNS. 65

moisture. Into these they draw down leaves and other vegetable
matter, where, in due course, the whole, along with any adherent
soil, is pulverised and converted by their peculiar gizzards into a
finer plant-food than ever issued from the laboratory of the
profoundest scientist. Thus, though scarcely recognised, the
poor earth-worm undoubtedly stands in the front rank among
the numerous animals which render the most valuable service to
mankind.

In the Coulmony Burn, on the 3rd November, 1894, we dis-
covered a goodly patch of the very rare Autumnal Water Starwort
(Callitriche Autumnalis.) At present the data regarding it&
area, altitude, and local habitats, are rather indefinite. It is a
small aquatic plant with long slender branching stems, always
remaining submerged even in sluggish streams, though the length
is generally regulated by the depth of the water. The leaves are
opposite, strap-shaped, and notched at the tips. The peculiar
distinctive character resides in the minute white flowers, without
calyx or corolla. Formerly, there was some doubt among
botanists as to the exact place which this wilding was entitled to
occupy in the British Flora, but the difficulty has now been
overcome by assigning an Order to itself and sister species, the
Callitriche verna. This plant may be frequently met with all
over the country, covering ponds and other stagnant pools with
its pretty rossette-epidermal appendages.

From the soft emerald displayed in their finely cut fronds
every one knows and admires the Ferns. Their graceful loveliness
entitles them to take a foremost rank among Nature's most
beautiful objects. They are a flowerless race, and their properties
and uses are not in proportion to their number in the Vegetable
Kingdom. Occupying, though they do, the highest place among
the Cryptogamous Plants, they stand far below any of the
organised forms just described in the foregoing pages. Unlike
them, they are no lovers of the sun ; so wherever shade and

66 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

moisture are to be found, there ferns may be expected to occur.
The most superficial inspection of any individual will well repay
the student for any time or trouble he may devote to its study.
The British natives, excluding varieties, number about thirty-
seven, but they have, undoubtedly, come in for a greater share
of popular attention than most other branches of floral science.
This preference may be accounted for by their attractive greenery,
elegant forms, and graceful bearing, so peculiar to the whole
Family. They form a splendid section in the vegetable orna-
mentation of this world, and are to be found throughout the
Summer and Autumn months sweetly mantling the rocks and
hill sides, or pleasantly hiding their stately forms where the sun's
rays are partially intercepted and mitigated of their full intensity
as they pass through the leafy screen outspread by the overhanging
trees. In addition to the enjoyment to be obtained from a
collection of dried ferns carefully arranged in a convenient
Herbarium, there is the great interest afforded in almost any
condition of life by cultivating them in a small garden plot, or
rearing them in artistic ferneries under the Wardian case, for
window or table decoration.

Of the thirty-seven British natives, about one half occur in
Ardclach. The first is the Common Polypodium vulgare. It
bears lance-shaped fronds, re-cut from the margin as far as the
midrib into lineaform parallel lobes on each side, until the whole
somewhat resembles a fish's dried backbone. Old walls and
shady banks, not far from cultivation, are its favourite haunts.
It may be easily recognised by the large circular golden-tinted
spore-clusters dotted over the upper sections of the matured
fronds. Should it chance to be fairly well protected from the
scorching influences of frost, it remains a pleasing evergreen
throughout the Winter months. The plant is a true parasite,
and as such may frequently be seen preying upon the fallen
trunk of some aged member of the forest — investing its victim
with a " gilded halo, hovering round decay."

FERNS. 67

At two or three spots only, on the river banks, is the Beech
Fern (Polypodium Phegopteris) to be found here. In general it
loves a damp soil, but thrives all the better if under the spray of
some waterfall. From the beautiful arrangement of the numerous
pale green, wedge-shaped fronds, six to ten inches long, the
peculiar herbage presents a striking resemblance to a small dwarf
forest. The identification is easy ; the two lowest pinules are
widely bent downwards and slightly forwards from the plane of
those above, and spring from the midrib at a longer interval than
do the others. Eather delicate and fragile, it soon withers after
reaching maturity, and becomes rusty looking on exposure to
very little frost. How it should have come to receive the name
" Beech Fern " is puzzling, as neither in shape, habit, nor locality,
is it in any way like this tree.

The Oak Fern (Polypodium Dryopteris), is an exceedingly
pretty species, with ternate fronds, and occurs quite commonly
among the damp cliffs by the Findhorn and moist sheltered spots
in the Glenferness fir-woods. With most people it is a great
favourite on account of the soft green colouring of its delicate
fronds. This agreeable tint shows all the better when contrasted
with the shining black reflected from the slender stems. For
grace and elegance, it greatly surpasses all the other ferns in the
district.

Here comes a rank thicket of the splendid Male Fern (Aspidium
Filix-mas) — a very common but beautiful ornament. It grows
abundantly almost anywhere beyond cultivation, such as open
plantations and cool shady hollows by the roadsides. The name
was conferred from the stately appearance so characteristic of
the fully developed fronds, in marked contrast to the more
delicate form displayed by its sister species, the Lady Fern. The
fronds are bi-pinnate, with obtuse serrated lobes. It produces
circular spore-masses near the central nerve, shielded by a scale
or indusium, which rises on a hinge as the germs become ready
for dispersion. About the month of May, observe the peculiar

68 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

growth — shuttlecock fashion — arranged round a central crown,
with the newly liberated apexes depending gracefully, like so
many diminutive shepherds' crooks.

This plant possesses valuable properties. They depend upon
a fixed resinous oil stored up in the root, and are, perfectly safe
and effective. The root, as it is now prepared, is a royal vermi-
fuge. Not only was it recommended in early times by Pliny and
Theophrastes, but it was the celebrated secret remedy for which
Louis XVI. paid 18,000 francs to Madame Nouffer, the widow of
a Swiss surgeon. To this day it retains an honourable place in
the British pharmacopeia.

Take a bite, says the legend, from the first fern you meet in
early Spring, and you will never again suffer from toothache.
This you may the more readily do when it also asserts that the
sap contained the same virtue as the elixir of life, which con-
ferred everlasting beauty and happiness on the person who drank
the ambrosial draught.

In every moist wood and damp shady glen the Lady Fern
{Athyrium Filix-faemina), may be expected to occur even in great
abundance. Nor does it refuse to brave the rude blasts on the
open moors or climb to the highest elevations in the parish.

" Where the copse wood is the greenest,
Where the fountain glistens sheenest,
Where the morning due lies longest,
There the Lady Fern grows strongest. "

The fronds are extremely delicate, and usually fall victims to the
first Autumn frost. They are lance-shaped, with pinnate divisions,
which are again cut up into a double series of lobes, each bearing
three or four pointed teeth.

The fern which occurs most commonly in Ardclach is the
Brake or Bracken (Pteris aquilina.) On the exposed sandy moors
it seldom exceeds eighteen inches in height, although, in warm
shady spots on good soil, the robust fronds sometimes rise to a
height of six or seven feet, and form an almost impenetrable
thicket — permitting little else to grow among its tall stems. In

FERNS. 69

these circumatances, the development is proportionately luxuriant
and compound, with horizontally spreading divisions, presenting
a peculiar aspect of the elegance and beauty, totally different
from the poor starveling on the bare hill side. Brackens should
always be cut, as the stalks are angular and sharp-edged, and
will gash the hand like a knife if broken and plucked incautiously.
Of all the native species this one is the most persistently wild.
Voluntarily, it will grow almost anywhere, either at home or
abroad, but invariably sickens and pines away under the most
favourable artificial conditions.

On ascending the Scottish throne after his imprisonment at
Windsor, it was to this fern that the " Poet King " referred, when
he said — " If I am spared, there is not the wildest spot where
the key shall not keep the castle, and the bracken bush the
cow." It is the same plant to which Scott alludes in his Lady
of the Lake, when he says of the Gael that,

" His whistle garrisoned the glen,
At once with full five hundred men."

Then at a given signal waved from their chieftain's hand,

" Each warrior vanished where he stood,
In broom or bracken, heath or wood."

To the roe-deer it affords a welcome cover in the depth of the
forest, while in bye-gone days it formed an excellent, as well as
an enduring, thatch on many a cosy Highland cottage.

If the stem be cut through, in an oblique direction near the
root, the outline of the pith as it appears on the section is
supposed by some to resemble King Charles's oak at Boscobel.
By others it is maintained that Linnaeus saw in it the heraldic
shape of a spread eagle, and hence his reason for conferring the
specific name, aquilina. Dr Johnson, on the other hand, in his
"Terra Lindisfarnensis," says the figure is very like the deil's
foot, but we are pleased to add, that having no genuine samples
of his Majesty's " tread marks " in this parish, it is impossible to
test the doctor's statement on this subject.

Among the damp rocks at the Lynemore arid Alt-an-Airidh

70 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Falls, the elegant little Green Spleenwort (Asplenium viride),
may be met with rather sparingly. This beautiful evergreen,
unlike the Polypodium vulgare, appears to shun civilisation,
and is frequently mistaken for its commoner sister, the Maiden-
hair Spleenwort (Asplenium Trichomanes), found abundantly on
the ruined walls of Lochindorbh Castle. The two ferns may be
readily distinguished by the colouring along the midrib, which,
on the former is bright green, but purplish black throughout in
the latter. The tiny oval, scarcely cut pinnae, arranged for the
most part alternately on either side, should enable the amateur
botanist to settle its identity with the least possible trouble.

Another very interesting fern is the famous Moonwort
(Botrychium Lunaria), about which so much has been said and
written in former times regarding its reputed magical properties.
In this country it is the only species belonging to the family.
The fronds are produced annually, but die down before the
Winter sets in. It may be easily enough known from these
curiously divided organs, which are separated at about half their
length into two branches — the one bearing regular crescent-
shaped lobules, having a fancied resemblance to a half moon,
while the other is fertile and becomes parted into eight or ten
spurs on which are produced the clustered stalkless spore-cases.
Although widely distributed in this country, it is a local plant,
and as it occurs only occasionally in Ardclach on the dry peaty
heaths, the ordinary finder is almost sure to apprise his first
specimen as something rare or even new, and usually presents it
to the nearest botanist with a request to hear what he has to say
about it. Carefully dissect the young stem near its base, and
you will be struck to find that it incloses the embryo plant of
the next season in a wonderfully developed condition.

The superstitious beliefs connected with this species is of great
antiquity, but in mediaeval times it appears to have reached the
full zenith of its fame, on account of its "Singular virtue for
healing green and fresh wounds, as well as converting mercury

SEDGES. 71

into pure silver." The Moonwort must have been an object in
special request among burglars, thieves, and robbers, since it had
the reputation of undoing at will, the most ingenious contrivances
in locks and bars ever planned to protect life and property among
rich and poor.

" Moonwort," says an old authority on this subject, " is an
herb which will open the locks wherewith dwelling houses are
made fast, if it be put into the keyhole ; as also that it will loosen
the locks, fetters, and shoes, from those horses' feet that go upon
the place where it groweth. This, some laugh to scorn, and those
no small fools neither, but country people that I know call it
Unshoe-the-horse. Besides, I have heard commanders say that
on White Down in Devonshire, near Tiverton, there were found
thirty horse shoes pulled off from the feet of the Earl of Essex's
horses, being then drawn up in a body; many of them being
newly shod, and no reason known, which caused much admiration,
and the herb usually grows upon heaths."

It is to this plant that the Ettrick Shepherd refers when he

says : —

" The first leet night quhan the new moon set,

Quhan all was douffe and mirk,
We saddled our naigis wi' the Moon Fern leif ,
And rode fra' Kilmenin kirk."

Another order of plants very common both upon the dry and
boggy uplands is the Cyperacese or Sedge family. Being very
like the Grasses they are often confounded with that Class, but
may be readily distinguished by the stems, which are solid and
angular, while those of the Grammas are hollow and round. It
is a curious fact, that though they are very nearly allied to the
Grasses, they scarcely, if at all, yield any of the feeding qualities
so valued in that order. Their importance does not depend on
their immediate utility to man, but they frequently form the
chief vegetation in the swamp, and by their continued growth
and decay gradually form a new soil upon which more valuable
plants may be raised at a later period for his benefit. The

72 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ancient Egyptian writing papyrus was the manufactured product
of a sedge luxuriating on the Nile even to the present day. At
the South end of the Loch of Belivat one species covers a
considerable area, and will, no doubt, some day manage to creep
over to the opposite side, and thus convert the whole water
surface into a large fertile meadow.

The Spike Rush (Eleocharis palustris), is to be found in the
same habitat, binding the loose sandy deposit into a compact
mass by its long horizontal rhizomes. Sometimes this plant
contributes largely to the formation of peat. In the Levrattich
mill dam the Bottle Sedge (Carex ampallacea) grows and flowers
very freely. Among the most notable Cyperaceae are the
Few-flowered Sedge (Carex pauciflora), pretty common on the
moors ; the curious looking Flea Sedge (Carex pulicaris) and its
star-like sister, the Little Prickly Sedge (Carex stellulata), each
of which may be observed in the spongy hollows, and even in
favourable circumstances, climbing the mountain side to a height
of 3000 feet.

The Eushes are not numerous here, but the crop in warm
boggy spots is often abundant and occasionally used as litter
about the farm steading. From June to August they are at their
full strength, being generally in blossom during the month of
July. Ascending the vegetable scale these plants are the first
which produce a whorled flower, but without petals. The smooth
green stems contain a large pith formerly used for wicks in the
black " crusie " lamps, now only to be seen as old-fashioned
curiosities in local museums. Centuries ago, and before carpets
were introduced, rushes were largely employed for strewing on
the floors, and to this custom there is frequent allusion in the
early writings. The Baltic Rush (Juncus Balticus) is found a
little South of the old Schoolhouse — its farthest inland station
on the Findhorn. Beside it we noticed the Blunt-flowered Rush
(Juncus obtusiflorus) in the only habitat within the parish.
It is rather scarce in Scotland generally, and only sparingly

THE GRASSES. 73

distributed over England. On the dry moors the Heath Kush
(Juncus squarrosus) is quite at home, but its rough vegetation
affords little or no nourishment to the local fauna. A near
relative is the Great Wood Rush (Luzula sylvatica), which
grows luxuriantly on the damp haughs by the water courses.
The long, soft, grass-like leaves, overtopped by the rush-shaped
stems, bearing terminal double compound flowering panicles,
form a rather striking ornament among the less robust herbage
throughout the Summer months.

THE GRASSES.

As Ardclach is to a large extent pastoral, the natural grasses
occur in great abundance, carpeting the warmer hollows and
alluvial patches in the early Summer with a pleasing shade of
richest green. The number of species, however, is not great.
Of the hundred and thirty common to this country, the Ardclach
group is composed of those individuals which are more generally
distributed than many others which might be selected from
among the British wild grasses. They are found in water as
well as on the land, and almost always in society, though occasion-
ally alone. Their value as fodder for cattle is scarcely less im-
portant than that of grain for human food. The moorland
grazings are valued pretty much in accordance with their pre-
sence or otherwise. Like other plants, grasses choose their soil
— sand being the least favourable. Some thrive only in poor
ground ; others require a rich loam, while a few are adapted to
the lowland meadow and flourish fully in land of the best
quality. Two or three still manage to retain a good position
among the farmer's crops — feeding on the strongest manures —
but are always regarded as troublesome intruders and systematic-
ally rooted out whenever possible. In general, grasses are harm-
less, if not nutritious, but there is a single, Lolium temulentum,
which is decidedly hurtful and has been the cause of much
trouble and many deaths among herds unfortunate enough to
meet with it on their usual pastures.

74 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

The Soft Brome, or Goose Grass (Bromus mollis), is frequently
an unwelcome guest in hay fields, where it sometimes manages to
claim the best of everything to itself. It grows well on light
ground, and although freely eaten by cattle, is not much valued
by the farmer, either for the bulk or quality of the fodder which
it yields. Some even maintain that it possesses slightly injurious
substances.

Wheat Grass (Triticum repens), well known on the farm as
" Quickens," or " White Root," is a very persistent intruder.
Despite rotation cropping and the careful cleaning of the turnip
ground from time to time, its creeping underground stems manage
to hold their place owing to the power of budding at every joint.
In a year or two, if not regularly grubbed and collected, it would
entirely extirpate its less assertive cogeners, the foreign grasses,
sown by man.

In fitting companionship there is the Oat-like Grass (Arrhena-
therum avenaceum), locally known as " Knap Grass " or " Swine's
Arnuts," from the fleshy bulbs developed at the base of the stem.
Although luxuriant in early Spring, it is not very much relished
by cattle from the bitter principle contained in its stalk.

Another species, the Sweet-scented Vernal Grass (Anthox-
anthum odoratum), is a small annual plant quite common on the
moors and by the roadsides. Coming up early, it continues to
send out young leaves till well on in Autumn. It contributes
largely to give the peculiar pleasing smell to new hay. The
active agent is known as coumarin, and is the same substance
which exists in Woodruff and to a still greater extent in the well-
known Tonquin Bean. Although not much valued as a nutritive
grass, yet owing to its presence, cattle often relish a change from
the arable to the natural pastures. For the above reason house-
wives sometimes give it a place in their wardrobes to impart a
pleasant odour to their contents and prevent moths and other
insects from attacking the fabrics.

Growing and flowering freely in rank tufts on waste places and

THE GRASSES. 75

I

by the roadsides, the Cock's Foot Grass (Dactylis glomerata), is
generally distributed during the Summer all over the parish. In
its wild state, it has a rather coarse bluish herbage sending up a
stem about three feet high, with a loose panicle, each of whose
divisions bears a cluster of flowers at the extremity. Springing
with great rapidity and yielding a large quantity of foliage,
it is readily eaten by cattle, horses, and sheep. As the roots
strike to a considerable depth, it is capable of enduring the
Summer drought better than many others. Although seldom
sown where the artificial grasses succeed, it is well adapted for
dry, sandy, exposed soil, and might therefore be expected to
prove of some value in such situations here.

Another hardy elegant little plant is the Bent Grass (Agrostis
vulgaris). " Among the British species it may at once be known
by the glumes, or outer scales of each flower being two in number,
unequal in size, of a membranous texture, and containing but a
single floret ; while the paleae or inner scales are short, very thin,
almost transparent, and two in number, the larger of them
occasionally having an awn on its back." The light soil in
Ardclach appears to be particularly well adapted for its growth,
hence it may be met with anywhere beyond cultivation. Except
that it is relished by his cattle as an agreeable change from the
field, the farmer pays comparatively little attention to its growth.
Although riot regarded as very nutritious, it resists the scorching
Summer sun in a high degree, and thus provides a staple part of
the upland pasturage throughout the grazing season. When
permitted to get into the arable soil it is apt to become a rather
troublesome weed from its creeping vivacious stems. Found in
different situations, it varies so much, both in size and appearance,
that botanists, in some instances, have described these forms as
constituting distinct species.

On the South-East side of the Loch of Belivat there is a
beautiful fringe of the stately Reed Canary Grass (Phalaris
arundinacea), which attains a height of four or five feet in July.

76 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

The large spreading panicle is greenish-white with a tinge of
violet, and is pretty sure to attract attention when seen for the
first time. The strong fleshy roots love to reticulate far into the
wet sandy banks, thus enabling it to send up a rank crop of
juicy leaves, which are readily accepted by Highland cattle as a
pleasant contrast to their usual diet on the surrounding moorland
pasture, The curiously streaked variety so well known to every
one as Ladies' Tresses or Gardeners' Garters, is to be found in
many cottage gardens as an ornamental grass.

Of all the native plants the Meadow Grass (Poa annua), is,
perhaps, the most widely distributed in Great Britain. The
genus has its glumes rather unequal ; the outer palese with three
or five nerves, membranous below, scai^ous at the tip, compressed,
keeled, unarmed, and the styles terminal. The herbage is tender,
sweet, and generally abundant. Springing up rich and green, it
presents itself wherever man in all his wanderings may choose to
pitch his tent. On account of the tonic nutritious qualities every
domestic ruminant grazes it with evident delight. As a weed it
persistently invades the choicest spots within the garden, causing
some trouble to get it rooted out if it is once allowed to get a
firm hold. Should the Winter prove fairly mild, it may be
noticed in fruit struggling on any untrodden spot, here and there
about the doors. During Summer it is said to ripen seed in
four to five weeks from the time of sowing. To this plant we are
indebted for much of that mottled and beautiful appearance on
the hill sides where those waves of emerald green roll silently
into their long glens and relative glenlets, carpeting the whole
with a sweet verdure, while at the same time it brings into
pleasing scenic relief the bolder characteristics produced by crag
and scaur among the upland wilds.

THE MOSSES.

There is an old legend which says : —

" The ferns loved the mountains, the mosses the moor,
The ferns were the rich, and the mosses the poor,"

THE MOSSES. 77

and that formerly each of these plants kept to its own locality ;
but the sun scorched the mosses, and dried the roots of the ferns,
while the wind beat pitilessly upon both, and thus by affliction
they were brought to a sense of duty, and each agreed to help
the other. So the tall ferns shielded the mosses from the sun,
and the mosses protected the roots of the ferns from the wind,
and kept them moist.

Regarding the mosses upon the wall, many are apt to conclude
that very little can be said. Nevertheless, to the student of
nature these lowly forms exhibit a unique beauty, and are objects
of the greatest interest. It is through the silent operation of
these lowly structures for many generations that all our extensive
swamps of bygone years in Ardclach have been transformed into
valuable peaty matter, so largely used even to the present day as
a domestic fuel. Flourishing along the various water courses,
they afford shelter and homes to countless myriads of tiny insects
which roam about in all the fulness of life and joy among the
miniature branches, as do the higher animals under the protective
shade of any undisturbed forest. In the Highlands, Polytrichum
commune, the Golden Maiden Hair Moss, is sometimes made into
neat little brushes, and Sphagnum, when steeped in tar, has been
used for caulking ships. As mosses never take on mildew they are
found useful for packing roots and young trees intended for
exportation, and large trunks found among peat, chiefly composed
of Sphagnum, show its power of preserving wood from decay.

All true mosses have leaves, however small. They are directly
attached to the stem and are always undivided except at the
edges which are finely serrated in a saw-like fashion. Though
they contain no visible pores, yet they are capable of absorbing
water with great rapidity. Very interesting, too, are the repro-
ductive organs. In general the flower has little or no brilliancy
by which to arrest the attention of the careless observer, but when
viewed through a good microscope, they are found to equal, if not
in some cases to surpass in beauty and design, many belonging to

78 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the higher orders. As they arrive at maturity, minute stellar
blossoms, more or less coloured, appear on the summits. These repre-
sent the ordinary stamensand contain the fertilising dust, which when
ripe is scattered in all directions. On the same plant may be seen
another series of pear-shaped bodies, pierced longitudinally from
apex to base with a hair-like canal communicating near the centre
with the pistil or female germ. When this embryo has become
fertilised, it begins to grow with the result that a slender stalk
commences to shoot upwards. In due course a small cup, neatly
fitted with a beautiful lid, is developed on the top. Inside this
•chaste little seed vessel the true spores are contained, and when
fully matured are freely projected all over the soil where, in suit-
able environments, they at once take root arid give rise to a young
succession of the original mosses. Thus, by -what is called
alternations of generations, there are two stages in moss develop-
ment. That is, the child is not the same as the parent but exactly
resembles the grandparent. First, there is the ordinary process
from which the distinctive organs of reproduction are formed, and
thereafter upon a secondary growth, from which the germs proper,
without further fertilisation, give birth to an individual race
similar in every respect to the original parent plant.

FUNGI.

The Fungi are among the most numerous of all plants as to
genera and species, and are developed in size at both extremes.
This may be observed in the striking contrast between the large
fleshy Boleti and the microscopic mould-plants, composed of threads
much too small to be seen by the naked eye. Yet the giant Boletus
is simply a grand massing of the same vegetable tissue constituting
a minute Mucor. Both grow after the same plan, and are propa-
gated by means which are entirely similar. The early botanists
regarded the whole race as Imus nature, and therefore, no plants
at all. Appearing with astonishing rapidity and from unknown
-causes, some even maintained that they afforded the very best

FUNGI. 79

examples of spontaneous generation. Their life history is now
better understood. Feeding as they do on organic substances, and
probably inhaling oxygen gas like animals, they form distinct
exceptions to the general plan of vegetable life. Be this as it may,
they have no power such as that possessed by plants with chloro-
phyll, or green colouring matter, of decomposing carbonic acid
gas and emitting oxygen. Although they grow in their season,
almost anywhere, yet, with the exception, perhaps, of the Common
Mushroom, very few people are able to tell one species from
another. Unfortunately there are no simple reliable characteristics
whereby the edible may be distinguished from poisonous. In
commencing the study of the British Fungi, a good plan is to
settle the peculiar qualities of a few well-known species and grad-
ually extend the number with experience and as circumstances
may permit. To those who care to try, the experimental method
is infallible — Eat the unknown species and if it does you no harm,
it is wholesome, but if it causes sickness or kills you, it is evi-
dently unfit for human food ! The number of really poisonous
fungi in Great Britain is comparatively few, and the list is gradu-
ally being reduced by science and experience. Any specimens,
however, giving out an unpleasant smell, or if the juice changes
colour, especially to blue, when cut, should be regarded as very
suspicious, and set aside for the time being, as dangerous. My
local catalogue is simply an illustration of the fungi occurring in
Ardclach and may be greatly extended in the future.
The Lists are given in the Appendix.

CHAPTEE IV.

THE FAUNA.

Mammalia, aves et Reptilia.

BADGER. — "Brock." (Meles Taxus). — Everywhere this is
rather a scarce animal, but owing to its nocturnal and solitary
habits, is believed in some districts to be rarer than it really is.
The last specimen which we have heard of in the parish was
captured in October, 1888, on the Findhorn, below Coulmony
House. It was kept in confinement by Mr Sinton, gardener,
Glenferness, until the following Christmas, when it managed to
regain its freedom and took to the rough pools on the river at
the " Rock Walk," a short way below the Mansion House. No
traces of it were ever afterwards seen. The remains of an old
badger warren are still distinctly traceable among the soft soil at
Jacob's Banks.

POLECAT.— " Foumart." " Fozzle " of Moray. (Mustella
Putorius). — Some fifty years ago the old people remember
the "Foumart" as a frequent depredator in the hen-house.
While at play on the right bank of the Findhorn, the boys
attending the Ferness Public School, in November, 1891,
succeeded in killing a fine specimen and brought the carcass to
show us what " a big weasel " they had caught. In this parish,
as elsewhere, the Polecat has become extremely rare, if not

82 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

entirely extinct, on account of the relentless war incessantly
carried on against the whole race by the local gamekeepers. In
former times it often proved a very troublesome neighbour both
to the farmer and proprietor, should they attempt to rear a coop
of fowls, or preserve a stock of game within it» reach. Blood,
and brain above all, appear to be esteemed among its choicest
dainties, even in a very rich and extended dietary. Beginning
with the egg, it persecutes all game birds through every stage of
their existence, and is a far more determined enemy to the hare
and rabbit than even the ermine and weasel themselves.

WEASEL. — "Whitret" of Scotland. (Mustella vulgaris).—
This lithe little animal is pretty common here. Although when
pressed by hunger it does not hesitate to attack poultry, hares,
rabbits, and even game birds, yet, when the hen-house is beyond
danger, it is generally looked upon by the farmer as a welcome
visitor about the square and stack-yard, where it is of great service
in destroying mice, rats, and voles, which prey upon his crops.
Active and untiring as a hunter, it tracks the mole and field
mouse by eye and nose, and will even climb trees in search of
birds' eggs. The bite which it inflicts on the back of the head
seldom fails to lay its prey in a few minutes a helpless victim at
its feet.

ERMINE. — "Stoat." (Mustella erminea). — Although scarcely
so frequent as the foregoing species, yet a few specimens are sure
to occur now and again all over the parish. Sometimes, during
a prolonged snowstorm, the Winter fur becomes perfectly white,
excepting the tip of the tail which remains permanently black.
It is still firmly believed by many in Ardclach that both the
Ermine and the Weasel have a peculiar power of influencing
rabbits and small birds by a sort of fascination which so destroys
their sense of danger that the poor creatures allow themselves to
fall an easy prey to an enemy from whom such creatures might
be considered as more than ordinarily safe.

OTTER.— (Lutra vulgaris).— Though of less frequent occurrence

THE FAUNA. 83

now than formerly, the Otter may still be met with along the
whole course of the Findhorn, where, in past years, it lived as in
a stronghold, and often committed great havoc among the salmon.
Like the other Mustelidse, it seems to delight in hunting and
killing many more than it is able to eat. It makes a meal very
daintily off the choicest part of the fish, generally leaving the
greater part of the body untouched. The whole frame is beauti-
fully adapted for movement under water. The eyes are so placed
that whether it is swimming below its prey, behind, above, or
beside it, the victim is seldom out of sight. On land it lives in
burrows, or holes under the roots of trees, but always as near as
possible to the water's edge. As we write (llth April, 1892), a
fine female has just been caught in a trap near the Rock Walk
at Glenferness.

Fox.— "Tod," "Reynard." (Vulpes vulgaris).— The fox and
his predatory excursions to the poultry yard are still well remem-
bered by the old people here. Although a stray specimen or
two from the Cawdor bills may from time to time be seen on the
higher grounds, it is doubtful if there be at present a single den
within the parish bounds. During the early part of the present
century he was very common, finding a safe retreat in the event
of threatened proceedings on the part of an outraged community,
on the island in the ravine opposite Daltra on the Findhorn, as
well as under the impregnable cover at the Black Park on the
side of Cairnbar. During the short Summer nights, in bygone
days, he has often been seen on his way to and from the nesting
quarter on the Loch of Belivat, where he feasted sumptuously for
several weeks in the year on the eggs and young of the black-
headed gull (Larus ridibundus), and kindred water fowl. In his
usual warfare against the lower animals, the fox grants no mercy,
and when, through misfortune, he himself falls a victim to the
spoiler, he is consistent enough to ask none, however serious his
case may be. The local gamekeepers state that the individuals
met with in this district are slightly darker and a size smaller

84 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

than the specimens occurring in the more favoured flats along
the sea-board. This circumstance may account for the old belief,
now almost forgotten, that the former variety was known as the
"sheep fox," while the latter was generally called the " fowl fox."

WOLF. — (Canis lupus). — Although this creatuse has now been
extinct in Great Britain for over one hundred and fifty years, it
is interesting to know that the last specimen is believed, according
to constant local tradition, to have been destroyed in the year
1743, by one Macqueen of Pollochoch, near the head of the Find-
horn. Hearing that a large "black beast" had killed two
children, who, with their mother, were crossing the hills from
Cawdor, the Laird of Mackintosh summoned his retainers to scour
the district, and, if possible, bring the culprit to justice. On the
morning appointed all, except Macqueen, arrived in due course.
After some delay he, too, very leisurely put in his appearance,
and was soundly scolded by his Chief for culpable neglect. At
last he ventured to say, " Ciod e a' chabhag ? " — " What was the
hurry ? " The Laird, heated with anger, impatiently replied.
Thereupon, Pollochoch lifted his plaid and drew out the black
bloody head of the wolf from under his arm. " Sin e dhuibh "-
" There it is for you," — he said, and tossed it on the ground in
the midst of the astonished circle.

MOLE. — (Talpa Europaea). — " Moudewort." — The provincial
name is derived from the Old English, " Mouldiwarp," meaning
to throw up earth. It has sometimes been stated by southerners
that the mole is a rare inhabitant in the North of Scotland, but
in Nairnshire this is not the case. It was at one time so
abundant that mole-catching was a profitable business — the local
functionary having been paid thirty-five shillings for moles
destroyed at twopence per tail, in one season on Glenferness
Mains. This man informs me that, during a pretty long experi-
ence, in addition to the white moles found at Dalless, Cawdor, by
his predecessor, he caught in his own traps one pure albino in
1877 at Milton of Moyness, two grey specimens in 1872 at

THE FAUNA. 8»

Drummin in Edinkillie, and the same year a couple with pale
yellowish bellies, at Carnach in the Streens. Although moles are
kept down here as elsewhere, the farmers are too sensible of the
undoubted benefits conferred upon agriculture by this incessant
labourer, to advocate, as is sometimes done, a policy of complete
extermination towards the whole race.

SHREW. — " Straw Mouse." (Sorex vnlgaris). — Popularly this
little creature is always classed as a near relative of the common
mouse. Few take the trouble to observe that it must belong to
an entirely different family, as shown by the fact that it possesses
insectivorous and not rodent teeth. It is not often seen alive,
but its presence in many a mossy bank is frequently announced
by the sharp excited notes which it utters on the approach of
any real, or supposed danger. Most people have noticed the
mortality to which the race is subject during the Autumn months,
but as yet no satisfactory explanation has been given. Shy and
inoffensive though it is now known to be, it is even to this day
occasionally regarded with not a little of that superstitious dread
which unfortunately, from a very early period, biased the rural
mind against its appearance under any circumstances in, or near,
their dwellings.

WATER SHREW. — (Sorex fodiens). — This species is so seldom
noticed that many have no idea of its existence at all. The fur
is glossy black above and white beneath. It burrows in the
banks of streams and is very aquatic in its habits. Our torn cat
caught a pair in a small stream near the schoolhouse and brought
them home, bub, as in the case of their nearest relatives, he
refused to eat them.

HEDGEHOG. — (Erinaceus Europaeus). — This is, perhaps, the
oldest mammal in Great Britain, and probably the best known of
all the nocturnal animals in this district. It is now by no means
so rare as it was fifty years ago. We bave frequently met with
it in the woods after sundown eagerly searching for its breakfast
among the short herbage. From the fussy habit it has of snuff-

86 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ing and blowing at every object with which it comes in contact
while thus engaged, it often betrays its own presence in very
unexpected places. The food consists chiefly of insects, worms,
slugs, and snails, though in confinement it appears to thrive very
well on porridge and milk. During Winter the hedgehog retires
to a sheltered recess at the base of some tree or similar situation,
where, rolled up in a bed of dried leaves or moss, it hybernates
quite comfortably without any visible store till the return of
milder days in the following Spring. In this county it has no
reputed malpractice for sucking eggs, either in the henhouse or
game-preserve.

BAT. — (Vespertilio Pipistrellus). — Common as the bat is on the
warm evenings throughout the Summer, yet how few have ever
been able to examine one alive, or even think that there are more
than one species. Appearing suddenly from some dark cranny
in the early dusk, and, darting about the house with its peculiarly
irregular flight, it becomes at times rather difficult to say whether
the creature is really a bat or a large moth. Armed though the
whole tribe be with teeth sharp as needles, and scarcely larger
than so many points thereof, no British species can bite so as to
injure even the most delicate skin. Except in the power of
flight, the bat differs entirely from all the rest of its aerial
companions, the birds. It usually produces one, though occasion-
ally two, young ones at a birth, and hybernates during Winter —
coming out of its retreat weak and greatly emaciated to prosecute
a valuable warfare against gnats and midges, which without this
and similar agencies, would become intolerable plagues to us
both by day and night.

SQUIRREL. — (Sciurus vulgaris). — In Nairnshire this frisky
little creature was entirely unknown until about the year
1852, when it appeared and was carefully protected in the
woods along the seaboard parishes. Since that date, how-
ever, it has gradually increased in numbers wherever there was
tree cover. By and bye, the proprietors began to shoot it down

THE FAUNA. 87

on account of the injury it unfortunately caused to the fir and
pine plantations on their estates. Selecting in Spring the most
robust trees, the squirrel sets to work within a few feet from the
top, and generally peels the bark clean off, thereby exposing a
patch from six to ten inches broad round the stem quite bare.
Several branches are often treated in the same way, and according
to the damage inflicted on the plant, it either dies or becomes in
proportion much reduced in value. During the greater part of
the year, the little fellow feeds on acorns, beech and hazel nuts,
as well as the seeds contained in the fir cones. When these are
abundant, there is always less injury done by peeling. It seems
to skip from tree to tree as if for pure enjoyment, but is a great
plunderer of any birds' nests which may fall its way. For the most
part it sleeps rolled up in its drey during Winter, only waking up
occasionally to feed on its hidden stores.

HOUSE MOUSE. — (Mus masculus). — This little freebooter is an
almost universal pest, and well known to every one in this
country as a self-invited guest both in the pantry and stack-yard,
or wherever grain is stored, with the possibility of any convenient
retreat. It is entirely dependent on civilised man, and accom-
panies him in all his wanderings over the earth.

LONG-TAILED FIELD MOUSE. — (Mus sylvaticus). — A common
species in woods, fields, and gardens, where it is often very
destructive. It is rarely found in dwelling houses, and when it
occasionally enters does not seem to explore much, if any, beyond
the ground floor. The female often produces from seven to ten
mouslings at a birth, and she may repeat this number in the same
year. For the size of the animal, the hoards collected in the
under-ground retreats, are sometimes enormous. Cats prey on
field mice equally with the foregoing.

BLACK RAT.— The "Rottan" of Scotland. (Mus Rattus).—
From the close of the fourteenth to the beginning of the present
century, this rat held undisputed sway everywhere. But in our
day none, except the oldest inhabitants, know anything about it

88 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

beyond what may be gathered from works on Natural History
Less decidedly a burrowing species than the Brown Rat, it pre-
ferred living in drains and holes about the floors and foundations
of houses, though it frequently established a comfortable residence
in the dry thatch of those old fashioned turf huts, once so common
all over the country. With the introduction, however, of stone
and lime, slate and concrete, in the construction of rural dwellings,
its favourite retreats were entirely abolished, and the new condition
proved a great misforture to the whole race. For several years
after the arrival of the Brown Rat from the Continent, both ap-
peared equally common, but in the keen struggle which set in for
existence, the larger and fiercer form so completely prevailed in
the end that it is now doubtful if there exists a solitary specimen
of the ancient breed even in the British Isles.

BROWN OR G-REY RAT.— (Mus decumanus).— This bold marauder.
" Whose hand has been against every man, and every man's hand
against him " from time immemorial, is now a fully naturalised
subject in this country. Its habits and astonishing intelligence
are only too well known to everyone but particularly so to the
merchant and farmer. The greatest difficulties are surmounted in
order to obtain some coveted dainty, and much relative damage
is often caused in the execution of its purpose. Rats devour meat
either raw or cooked, but will eat almost anything — grain, eggs,
young birds, and even their own species. Not unfrequently do
they increase about the farm to such an extent that their presence
can be considered nothing less than a plague Feeding for some days
with a mixtnre of meal and plaster of Paris is said to be a most
effectual way of getting rid of very troublesome visitors.

WATER VOLE. — Locally, the "Water Rat " ( Arvicola amphibia).
— Naturally extremely shy, this creature is not very often seen,
and is popularly set down as an aquatic member of the Rat Family.
In this parish it is fairly common on the banks of all the lochs and
burns, where it burrows and breeds in comparative safety. The
feet are not webbed, but it dives and swims freely as well under

THE FAUNA. 89

as on the surface of the water. Owing to its identity being fre-
quently confused with its omniverous cousin, it is often branded
as a bad character, and as such is persecuted, although entirely a
vegetable feeder, as an enemy of the fish pond and the trout
stream. The black variety (Arvicola atra) occurs in the same
habitats but differs in no respect from the above except in colour.

MEADOW, OR SHORT-TAILED VOLE. — (Arvicola agrestis). — At
present (1892) this species is rather more plentiful in the district
than could be desired, especially when we consider the ravages
which are being inflicted through this agency on some of the
Border Counties. It usually burrows near the surface, and often
finds a retreat in the excavations made by some other animal.
In vole infested areas, not only is the vegetation completely des-
troyed, but the meadow lands, during the breeding seasons, are
sometimes so thickly set with nests, — each containing five to seven
young — that considerable difficulty is thereby experienced in
cutting down any surplus crop which the spoilers may have left.
The Vole's natural enemies — the weasel, stoat, owl and crow — are
alone able to keep its increase within due bounds, and lovers of
sport make a great mistake when they reduce these benefactors
to the verge of extinction. A reaction is sure to set in, with more
or less intensity, and that generally from some very unexpected
quarter.

RED VOLE. — (Arvicola riparia). — Rare in this parish, though it
occasionally becomes so plentiful in the lower districts as to be
very destructive to newly planted larches.

COMMON HARE.— The "Maukin" of the Scotch. (Lepus
timidus). — It is not now so abundant over the parish as it for-
merly was. This is, no doubt, owing to the greater privileges
extended by the recent Ground Game Act. Otherwise the extir-
pation of hawks and foxes would have been favourable to a general
increase. During the nuptial season, it is rather pugnacious and
shows no little courage when fighting with rivals within its own
territory. Depending for safety from enemies on great fleetness,

90 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the hare never becomes fat, however well it may be supplied with
food.

RABBIT. — (Lepus cuniculus). — Originally the rabbit is said to
have been introduced to this country from Spain, and previous
to the commencement of the present century, it .was unknown in
Nairn and Moray, where at first the proprietor of Pitgaveriy even
carefully protected it. At Glenferness large numbers occur of
different colours — black, brown, white and grey, but are without
doubt the lineal descendants of former escapes from local domesti-
cation. Previous to the passing of the Ground Game Act, the
rabbit often became an almost intolerable pest to the tenant
farmer, but is now pretty well kept down. It delights in sandy
heaths and light soils, especially where there is a suitable cover so
as to give shelter and protection for itself and young. So rapidly
does the little mammal increase, that, everything going well, for
four years, a single pair might become the honoured ancestors of
a progeny amounting to 1,274,840. Hitherto, all attempts to
produce a cross breed between the hare and the rabbit have
failed.

ALPINE, MOUNTAIN, BLUE OR WHITE HARE.— (Lepus variabilis).
— This species is very abundant along the Monadhliadh Range,
but seldom descends below an elevation of 800 feet on any of the
Findhorn watersheds in Nairnshire. As the Winter approaches,
the Summer fur gradually changes all over from a darkish grey
to a pretty shining white, but the lips and ear tips remain black
throughout the season. This transformation is always more per-
fect in a good conditioned, than in a poor hare — the grey being
as protective a colour in Summer as the white must evidently be
in Winter. On several occasions, as many as six hundred have
fallen in one day to the guns of a tenant shooting party on the
Cawdor moors. The White Hare is not known to burrow in this
district, but when alarmed it will not hesitate to seek concealment
in the first suitable hole, or other hiding place which may con-
veniently present itself. In ordinary cases, it simply scoops a

THE FAUNA. 91

hollow near the top of the hill, deep enough to protect the body
from the passing blast, and lies in it with the tail bankwise and
the head overlooking the newly excavated soil, thus enabling
it, when at rest, to observe the earliest appearance of danger from
whatever quarter it may appear in the valley below. In such a
situation it often lies quite close, trusting to its similarity of
environment, until the immediate presence of the sportsman or
other passer-by, forces it to rise and flee for safety across the
moors. During severe Winters it frequently burrows beneath
the snow, and sometimes forms a retreat large enough for two or
three associates to live in comparative comfort until the return of
more favourable weather,

STAG OR RED DEER. — (Cervus elaphus). — Only a few straggling
individuals from the mountains are now and again to be met
with in this district, under stress of severe weather. In former
times, when the old forest of Lochiiidorbh stretched its broad
wing over the south-eastern section of the parish as far as the
river Findhorn, the Red Deer were plentiful enough. A small
holding, Achendaur, now incorporated with Balinreach, on the
Glenferness estate, was so named by the early inhabitants from
the fierce contests which annually took place on its open meadow,
between the rival stags during the rutting season.

ROEBUCK. — (Cervus capreolus). — This species is chiefly con-
fined in Scotland to the area North of the Grampians. Owing to
the vast extent of surface now planted and forming a suitable
cover, the roe is quite common all over the county. The buck
and the doe seem to remain attached for several years, mayhap,
even for life, while the fawns keep up a friendly intercourse with
the parents long after they are able to cater for themselves.
Except when feeding, or passing from one plantation to another,
it is seldom seen in the open ground. When allowed unduly to
increase in numbers the damage which it does both in the field
and to the young trees is sometimes considerable. Some years
ago two fawns were caught and brought up as pets, on separate

92 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

farms in this parish, but it could scarcely be said that they ever
became perfectly tamed, and at last both succeeded in making
good their escape to their native haunts.

REPTILIA.

In an exact Zoological sense, the two following are not true
Reptiles, since, like all Amphibians, they possess gills or branchiae
in early life, though afterwards they breathe (swallow) air solely
by their lungs.

FROG. — (Rana temporaria). — Of the genus this is the only species
in Nairnshire, but it is widely distributed throughout Great
Britain and generally over the Continent even as far as the
seventieth degree of North latitude. Although entirely aquatic in
the early stages of its history, the adult specimen is seldom seen far
from water in after-life. As a rule the frog may be said to live in
solitude, but during the nuptial season, large numbers congregate
in almost every marsh, often high up on the mountain flats. At
this time the males croak and disport themselves very freely in the
comparatively warm element, and under the impulse of love and
hunger both sexes become especially active after nightfall. The
whole family feel quite at home in the pool, and leap and swim
with wonderful power and grace. In March, every one must
have noticed the small black eggs deposited by the female in a
clear gelatinous mass among still water. After a few days, the
curious little tadpoles are hatched in vast numbers and are
locally known as " laidlacks." At this stage, each individual
appears to be just one enormous head and belly, quite undis-
tinguishable in outline, and terminating in a long flexible tail on
which it depends for motive power. By the time the four limbs
become distinctly visible, the caudal appendage has been com-
pletely absorbed, and meantime the froglet having developed
lungs and a new appetite, it gradually assumes all the character-
istics of a true flesh eater. Henceforward, it lives on worms,
insects, and slugs throughout the Summer, but lies in a torpid

THE FAUNA. 93

condition without air or food during the cold season, among the
mud at the bottom of the pool.

TOAD. — (Bufo vulgaris.) — Of the two British species, this one
is alone found in Nairnshire. Though common and familiar
enough to most people, it is universally disliked from the mistaken
idea that it is dangerous, and "can spit poison." It is, however,
perfectly harmless, and could not injure the tenderest child even
if it should desire to do so. The skin is, indeed, warty, and of a
dirty brown colour, containing an acrid substance (phrynin)
which is very disagreeable to any animal when taken up in its
mouth. Coming out chiefly at night in search of grubs, slugs,
and similar prey, it becomes a most valuable assistant to the
gardener when his plants are young and tender. From the
bright sparkling eyes, there was at one time a firm popular belief
that the toad carried a precious stone in its head. Although
very tenacious of life, there are few in the present day who would
be ready to credit the oft-repeated stories of toads being dis-
covered alive in solid rock, sometimes in formations even older
than those which contain their early geological remains. As the
result of very careful experiments on this subject it is now known
that they can survive in confinement for several months under
very unfavourable circumstances, but in no case for a period
much over a year.

SLOW OR BLIND WORM. — (Anguis fragilis.) — By the un-
initiated this pretty little reptile is invariably set down as a vile
snake, possessing the most deadly poison, because the body and
tail are so gradually merged into one that it presents a very
ophidian-like appearance. The fang, however, so much dreaded,
exists only in imagination. Notwithstanding, almost every year we
hear that one or more " big serpents," sometimes even two feet
long, have been caught and killed in the parish. In every case,
any which have been submitted to us for identification, always
turned out to be just an ordinary slow worm. It is fairly
common on the moors and other dry sandy places. True to its

94 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

natural disposition, it only comes out as a rule after dark in
search of slugs, snails, and such like grub, which are devoured in
great numbers. Thus it ought to be protected for the valuable
service so efficiently rendered both in the garden and on the
farm. On the contrary, the thoughtless diseoverer usually
condemns it to an immediate death, under the impression that
he is acting the part of a public benefactor to the community in
general.

COMMON LIZARD. — Locally, " Heather Ask " — (Lacerta vivi-
para). — This beautiful little creature occurs very generally on the
dry heaths, and sunny banks throughout a wide area over the
North. The colouring is remarkably protective, and corresponds
in a striking degree with the sombre shades of its natural
environment. On warm days it may often be seen darting about
with wonderful agility among the heather, hunting for insects
even more active than itself. Pouncing every now and again
on some poor incautious fly, it only pauses for a moment to
devour its victim, and then jerks itself off anew in search of
another. Like the slow worm, it has the curious habit of snapping
the tail during the spasms of capture, but after a time the lost
part is restored, though in a considerably less perfect condition
than the original. As the specific name implies, the eggs are
hatched before birth, so that the young are born alive, and are
capable of catering for themselves from the first.

VIPER OR ADDER. — (Vipera berus). — This is the only poisonous
snake found in Great Britain. Although said to be occasionally
noticed on the less frequented hills of Nairnshire, we have never
met with a single specimen, nor do we certainly know of any
person or animal having been bitten by an adder in this district
within the last thirty years.

GREAT CRESTED NEWT. — (Molge cristata). — Occurs not un-
commonly in this district.

PALMATED SMOOTH NEWT. — Eft, Water Ask — (Molge pal-
mata) — Almost every ditch, pond or mountain pool, affords

THE FAUNA. 95

numerous specimens of this small lizard-like creature, which,
contrary to the generally accepted belief, is perfectly harmless.
Not being exclusively aquatic, it may occasionally be found on
the moors under stones, or crawling about among the heather and
damp herbage, at times, a long distance from water. The
tenacity with which it clings to life is very surprising. During
severe Winters, it now and again gets frozen up in a block of
ice, but, in due course, comes out again with the genial Spring,
bright and active, and apparently none the worse for an experience
which would have proved fatal to most other animals. But
more wonderful still, like many of the same genus, it shows
extraordinary powers of reproducing lost parts, and that too, even
several times in succession. Once upon a time, as related in the
following local story, a labouring man, while drinking on his
knees from a moorland pool, inadvertently swallowed an " ask."
For days and nights on end, he could feel the " hateful beast "
leaping, crawling, and sometimes even gnawing at his stomach.
Medicines were taken, and every doctor within reach was con-
sulted, but all to no purpose. At last, he met a " Wise Woman "
who told him to eat the fleshy part of seven salt herrings, and
immediately thereafter to lie down and hold his head over a
running stream, where the " ask" might hear the water murmuring
among the stones. This he did, and in a few minutes, to his
great delight, the vile reptile made its way up his throat, jumped
into the current, and instantly disappeared in its native element.
From that day to the present, many in Nairnshire believe that
" asks " are dangerous, and not to be rashly dealt with.

BIRDS.

The birds of Ardclach differ in no material respect from those
which occur in similar inland parishes on the Southern shores of
the Moray Firth. Although the annual average temperature in
this region, is a few degrees lower than that which obtains
along the sea-board, the climate even in Winter is far from severe.

96 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

The existence of not a few rare insects — butterflies and moths—
which were supposed to live only in the South, may be noted as
an example of the general mildness. At long intervals, intense
cold has been experienced, but during the Winter of 1895-96,
very little snow fell, and the thermometer seldom indicated more
than a few degrees of frost. To some extent this may account
for the numerous feathered migrants which annually select this
area for nesting purposes, as well as a contingent of Northern
visitors, which generally arrive on our shores by the end of the
year in order to escape the rigours of an Arctic cold.

In former times, when the great umbrageous pines of the old
Caledonian Forest quite overshadowed the dark frowning pre-
cipices almost throughout the whole course of the Findhorn,
eagles, owls and ravens, found an impregnable retreat beneath
their branches, in the deep rocky gorges through which the
restless current had succeeded in forcing its way to the sea.
Particularly was this the case at the Rock Walk and neighbouring
banks below the Mansion House, where these birds as well as a
strong colony of predatory mammals continued to maintain an
unquestioned independence, long after their less fortunate com
peers had been driven out by gun, axe and fire, from their
ancient haunts in the surrounding country. Before gamekeepers
came into supreme power, hen harriers were the plague and
terror of the farmer's wife. For many years, not a single specimen
has been known within the bounds, and even the peregrine is
becoming very rare. At the present time, a sparrow-hawk, a
kestrel, a straggling merlin, and a few owls, are all that remain
in Nairnshire of a once splendid Fauna of raptorial birds.

For sporting purposes, the broad moors are all well stocked
with red and black grouse, whose natural habitats are entirely
confined to the Highlands of Scotland. In every way they are
carefully protected, while their presence annually brings into the
country a revenue of many thousand pounds. Little do these
innocent creatures themselves know their priceless value, and the

THE FAUNA. 97

great influence they exercise on the community in general. For
them, even the British Parliament usually regulates its Autumn
sittings, and wealthy subjects erect palatial lodges in the remote
glens, and engage armies of keepers and gillies whose sole work
is to try and increase their numbers on the upland wilds by every
means in their power.

Large flights of gulls (Larus ridibundus) regularly leave the
coast and come up to breed in the Lochs of Belivat, Boath, and
sometimes too, on either of the artificial ponds near Glenferness.
Sandpipers and oyster-catchers always visit the Findhorn, and
lay eggs in suitable localities all along its pebbly bed, where they
bring out their young in comparative safety. The former are
true " birds of passage," resting with us for a brief period on their
way further North in Spring, and again while returning to the
South in the following Autumn.

Of the smaller sylvan tribes there are considerable numbers,
and if the benefits they confer on the farmer were better under-
stood, they would be more encouraged than they now are. True,
at times, they do some visible harm to the crops in the garden and
field, but the compensation they secretly render in freeing the
soil and plants from injurious insects, is both manifold arid
effectual. Very few among them have a definite song, but all, in
proclaiming their natural delight, can chirp, twitter or chatter in
an endless variety of pleasant sounds. In most cases these
utterances are sufficient indications to distinguish the individuals
even when unseen. During the Spring and Summer months,
this wonderful power becomes more distinctly marked, as a sweet
impulsive emotion in the males, which often vie with each other
from shade, bush or tree-top, in trying to captivate the esteem
and affection of some shy lady-love, in view of entering upon the
all important domestic duties connected with the happy nuptial
season.

MISSEL THRUSH.— (Turdus viscivorus)— " Stormcock " and
" Hielan' Piet." — The largest of the family, and probably occurs,

98 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

at the present time, in greater numbers along the Moray shores
than in any other part of Great Britain. Locally classed among
the destructive birds, it is regularly persecuted by the gardeners,
who maintain that it often causes considerable loss during the
fruit season. In general, it is very shy and, wary, but when
breeding, it becomes even aggressively pugnacious, clamorous and
bold, beyond most other species in defence of eggs or nestlings.
By the Autumn, they congregate here in large scattered flocks,
ranging over the open country in search of worms, snails, and
insects of all kinds. As the season advances, however, the society
gradually diminishes, and finally breaks up by mid-winter.

SONG THRUSH. — (Turdus musicus)— " Throstle," " Mavis,"
" Mavie." — Resident all the year, and well-known wherever there
is any plantation, or natural brushwood, sufficient for conceal-
ment or convenient shelter. In figure, song, and habits, the
throstle is every inch a veritable thrush, and ranks high as a
British melodist. His lay is pre-eminently happy and strikingly
varied every now and then, with the pretty refrain, " Cheer up,
cheer up, cheer up," which may be taken as the key-note and
purpose of his song during the Spring and Summer months.
Singing at intervals from early dawn to late at night, his evening
carols always appear to be the richest and best, owing, no doubt,
to the calm and witching influence of the gloaming hour.
Differing from every other structure of the kind, the nest is
plastered on the inside with mud, or even cow-dung, which forms
a cork-like lining, and becomes very hard when dry. The mavis
persistently searches the meadows for earthworms, of ten impressing
us by its actions that it relies more on the sense of hearing than
that of sight, for the discovery of its favourite prey.

REDWING. — (Turdus iliacus). — A Winter visitor from Northern
Europe, but generally mistaken for the foregoing species. We
are not aware that any ever remained to breed in this district.

FIELDFARE.— (Turdus pilaris).— This is a better known
migrant than the former — first in October on its way South, and

THE FAUNA. 99

again about the end of April, when returning to its Summer
home in the Norwegian forests.

BLACKBIRD. — (Turdus merula) — " Blackie." — Abundant, and
generally resident throughout the year, but more numerous in the
lower reaches than on the uplands. The gardener and he do not
always live on the most friendly terms, for in addition to slugs,
snails, and insects of all kinds, Blackie greedily devours his
strawberries, cherries, currants, and even gooseberries. On the
slightest challenge he dashes off with a loud aggrieved protest,
and takes refuge for the time in the thickest evergreen shrubbery
that may be conveniently within his reach. Most persons will
agree that our three finest local songsters are the mavis, blackbird,
and lark, although, in the character of their respective strains,
they each differ so widely that there is no possible comparison.
The blackbird sings chiefly in the morning and evening hours, in
a quiet melodious tone. The performance is far from perfect,
though at the same time rich and charmingly delightful. An
albino specimen now and again occurs, but very rarely, purely
and completely so. This condition is supposed to be the result
of some secret disease, and is often associated with a more or less
sickly constitution, but it also happens that an albino appears
as robust and strong in every way as its normally coloured
companions. The blackbird may be easily recognised even at
some distance, or in a bad light, from the peculiar habit of
sharply raising its tail, the moment it settles from flight. In
this parish we can find no proof that the blackbirds ever suck
birds' eggs.

RING OUZEL. — (Turdus torquatus). — There are few localities
in Nairn shire where a pair or more may not be seen at some part
of their sojourn here, but they nest only in the higher area along
the Monadhliadh Range. They are the only thrushes which are
entirely absent from the British Isles during the Winter. After
their arrival in April, the Mountain Blackbirds, as they are
called, begin to come down in July to the gardens, where they

100 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

often do considerable damage, especially among the strawberry
plots. In August 1885, a pair visited the Schoolhouse garden
every day, and freely shared our various fruits.

COMMON WHEATEAR. — (Saxicola oenanthe). — A welcome Spring
visitor. It arrives in Nairnshire from the South about the first of
April, and seems to prefer the moors and stony uplands, to the
cultivated flats. Though widely diffused over the British Isles,
it is rather a local bird. The plumage is clearly marked grey,
black and white, and is sure to attract attention as the owner
flits along, showing from time to time the snowy rump which
conferred the English name in a corrupted form. The nest
is usually made in a hole under a stone, sometimes in a rough
cairn, or occasionally well back in an old rabbit burrow.

WHINCHAT. — (Pratincola rubetra). — This species arrives from
the South about the beginning of May. It is never very common
here, but a pair or two may be seen almost any year, wherever
there is low scrub, or coarse rank herbage on the moors, or
sloping banks along the Findhorn. The nest is usually placed on
the ground, and generally contains five or six eggs of a bluish
green, slightly speckled with dull red.

STONECHAT. — (Pratincola rubicola). — Resident all the year, but
far from common — the parish, probably, seldom containing more
than half-a-dozen pairs or so. When the nest is approached the
parents become greatly excited and show the keenest distress.

REDSTART. — (Ruticilla phoenicurus). — The male is one of the
most beautiful of our small birds, and although rather local as a
Summer visitant in these Northern parts, the redstart has always
been, in our experience, a pretty common species in Ardclach.
For four years, 1891-5, a pair regularly returned on their annual
arrival, about the beginning of May, to the letter box on the
roadside at Airdrie, Glenferness, repaired their old nest, and
reared a brood in perfect safety, amid very unusual surroundings.
The redstart shows considerable fondness for old walls, but is
always a shy bird in the presence of man. It is often rather

THE FAUNA. 101

difficult to distinguish the pretty greenish blue eggs from those
of the hedge-sparrow.

REDBREAST. — (Erithacus rubecula). — This is a very familiar
and welcome visitor at every household over the country. He is
resident all the year round, being as much at home in the wildest
glen, as the finest garden near the city. Of all our feathered
friends the redbreast probably ranks first. Not only is he a
sweet singer, but when almost every other melodist is silent in
Autumn and Winter the robin still warbles his ceaseless strain :
fresh, plaintive, and merry, as in the joyous Spring time. He is
one of the latest as well as earliest of birds — requiring, apparently,
but little time to rest. As any one may observe, each pair claim
a certain well"defined area of ground, which they regard as their
own peculiar property, and jealously drive off every other indi-
vidual of their own species. Strange to say, their young ones,
on attaining ^maturity are heartily persecuted and forced to take
refuge in other parts of the country, sometimes, it is believed even
in regions beyond the sea. Notwithstanding all the pretty
legends in his favour, " Robin " must be set down in all honesty
as a very cantankerous, selfish little gentleman. In order to pick
or guard a grain more than his share, it is often amusing to see
him among his cogeners ruffling his feathers like a spirited bantam
cock, and boldly challenging the biggest bird in the company to
single combat. Should any of them, however, after losing all
patience, decide to resent some repeated indignity, he at once
turns coward and will even flee before the feeble valour of the
tiny wren itself.

WHITETHROAT. — (Slyvia cinerea). — Arriving in this district
about the end of April, the whitethroat may be expected to
occur, though at all times sparingly, in the parish wherever there
are thick hedges or other rough vegetation suitable for nesting
purposes. It usually lays from four to six eggs. Those in my
collection were found in a dense tangle near the Mansion-House
of Glenferness.

102 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

GOLDEN -CRESTED WREN. — (Regulus cristatus). —A widely dis-
tributed species and resident in Ardelach all the year. Although
not really a wren it is generally known by that name, and has
the honour of being the smallest British bird. Concealing itself,
if at all possible, among the thick foliage of pine, fir, or close
shrubbery, it is not a familiar figure. The nest is usually sus-
pended near the end of some tufted branch and contains from
five to eight tiny eggs.

WILLOW- WREN. — (Phylloscopus trochilus). — Of all our Summer
visitors this sweet little warbler is most frequently to be met
with in field and wood from the seaboard even to the summit of
Cam G-las in the South of the County. Although at all times a
trustful bird, its simple plumage renders it less familiar to the
ordinary observer than otherwise it would be. Many nests are
discovered every year in the parish. They are built on the
ground and lined inside with horsehair and feathers, and contain
six or seven white eggs spotted with reddish brown.

WOOD WREN. — (Phylloscopus sibilatrix). — Probably a few
stragglers may occasionally occur in the parish, but we have
never been able to identify a single specimen. Owing to its
restless disposition in the leafy tops of tall oak and beech trees,
the wood wren is not easily distinguished from similar small birds.

SEDGE- WARBLER. — (Acrocephalus phragmitis). — This is rather
a common species along the Moray seaboard, but generally a very
intermittent visitor in the higher parts of Ardelach. We do not
know of its nesting in Glenferness.

HEDGE SPARROW. — (Accentor modularis). — Despite the general
name there is no relation between the hedge chanter and the pert
chattering house sparrow. At almost every homestead it is well
known, as a gentle trustful creature, and thus shares much of the
kindly feeling and favouritism which is universally entertained
for the redbreast, the lark, and the little jenny wren. Specially,
it is a hedge loving bird, and builds its humble nest not only
there but often in a thick, tangled bush or heap of dry brush

THE FAUNA. 103

wood. The eggs are from five to six in number, and of a bright
greenish- blue colour without spots.

DIPPER. — (Cinclus aquaticus). — "Water Ouzel," "Water Craw."
— Differing considerably in appearance, and still more in his
strange habits, from most other British birds, the water ouzel
has been well described as a " big black wren with a white bib."
He is resident from January to December, and occurs frequently
on the Findhorn, Meikle Burn, and other hill torrents in the
parish. He is not gregarious in instincts but he limits himself
to some particular quiet section of the stream, which is jealously
watched and protected as the robin does his chosen area. There
is no truth in the common belief that this bird can walk among
the water at the bottom of the pool with the same ease as it can
on the dry ground. Diving with great facility, even in a rapid
current, the body is propelled in any desired direction by powerful
wing beats against the denser element, but he has to come up
from time to time for the purpose of breathing. It is probably
quite true that he occasionally varies his diet with a few salmon
or trout ova, but certainly not to the extent which about half-a-
century ago raised a persecution in the Laigh of Moray that
well nigh resulted in his extermination. The nest is built near
the water, and usually receives from four to six eggs, which are
of a pure white, without spots.

LONG-TAILED TIT.— (Acred ula rosea).— Entirely a woodland
species and seldom to be met with far from its favourite haunts.
It is resident all the year, and fairly common among the birches
and pine trees in Glenferness. The nest is a wonderful domed
structure in which the mother sits on six to eight eggs with her
long tail turned over her back.

GREAT TIT.— (Parus major.)— " Oxee." — This is the largest
member of the tit family, and is pretty frequent all the year in
the woods and gardens over the parish. Keen and restless from
morning to night in pursuit of insect food, it may often be seen
clinging to the branches in every conceivable position. Though

104 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

it disports a comparatively gay plumage, the dietary is varied,
and at times descends to the coarsest fare — insects, seeds, grubs,
and animal tissue even in a state of high carrion. The nest has
been found in many curious situations, and usually contains seven
or eight eggs, white and spotted with reddish-brown.

COAL TITMOUSE. — (Parus ater ; Parus britannicus). — A very
prominent and familiar species in Ardclach, but best known by
its local name, the " Blue Bonnet." It remains throughout the
year, being chiefly found among the fir and pine woods on the
Lethen and Glenferness estates. The nest, in which is laid from
six to eight eggs, is usually placed near the ground, in a hole in
some rotten tree-stump, a dyke, or any such like suitable place.

BLUE TITMOUSE. — (Parus caeruleus). — Although this is generally
a very common and resident species, it must be set down as rare,
especially in the Southern portion of the county — paying only
straggling visits from the lower reaches to Ardclach.

WREN. — (Troglodytes parvulus). — Bright, happy, and fussy,
the " Jenny Wren " is a kind of natural pet with everybody from
Land's End to John o' Groats. It occurs in considerable numbers
from the sea-shore up to the Aitnoch Hills wherever there is a
stray birch or a dwarf specimen of juniper. A hardy mite, it
remains with us throughout the year and may be observed in the
coldest parts of the country — often singing as gaily during a
severe frost as in Summer, if only the sun is able to show himself
through the clouds. The domed nest is a large and beautiful
structure for such a tiny bird, and always cunningly concealed
by a wonderful adaptation to the local environments. Very
little human interference by straining, or even touching the inside
of the fabric, is sufficient to alarm the parents and cause them to
forsake their dearest treasures at any time previous to hatching.

TREE-CREEPER. — (Certhia familiaris). — Although pretty num-
erous and resident in all the fir and oak woods in the parish, it
is often overlooked owing to its protective colouring, and the
habit it has of climbing the trunk for the most part on the side

THE FAUNA. 105

opposite to the observer. Differing entirely from the other
woodland species, its whole life possesses the least possible variety,
being one continued monotony of searching the rough bark, with
keenest eyes, for spiders, flies, and other insects on which it lives
all the year round. Although the creeper is set down as a very
silent bird, it never fails to utter a low querulous note as it
descends on wing from the higher part of the tree on which it
was travelling, to the root of the next unexplored trunk. Gener-
ally speaking, it builds its pretty little nest in some old pine, with
only a small opening to the interior, and the eggs — six to nine in
number — are so like those of the Titmouse and Willow Wren
that it is always a hard task to distinguish them when mixed in
the cabinet.

PIED WAGTAIL.— (Motacilla lugubris.) " Watery Wagtail."—
This pretty little bird is sparingly distributed over the whole
parish. In the cold season it migrates to the sea-shore, but
returns again in the early Spring. Owing to the clearly marked
black and white plumage it is, perhaps, the most familiarly known
small bird in the county. It frequents lea fields near a running
stream, and follows the cattle for the sake of the flies which prey
upon these animals. Exclusively terrestrial in all its habits, it
runs very gracefully, though somewhat spasmodically, along the
ground, continually jerking the long tail up and down. The
nest is made, as a rule, in some hollow in the ground not far
from the margin of some loch, ditch, or shallow pool. The eggs
are four or five in number, of a pale bluish ground tint and
spotted with greyish-brown.

GREY WAGTAIL. — (Motacilla melanope.) — As this graceful
species chiefly haunts the rocky tributaries of the Findhorn and
similar streams, it may be more abundant in Ardclach than is
generally supposed. From the delicate canary tints on the rump
and breast it is locally known as the " Yellow Wagtail." Every
season, without special searching, we have noticed a few pairs.
The nest is usually built under some rock or bush, not far from

106 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

water, and receives five or six eggs, which are grey in ground
colour, and spotted with pale brown.

MEADOW PIPIT. — (An thus pratensis.) Locally " Titlark,"
" Titling," and " Moss Cheeper." — During Summer the pipit is
as much at home on the lowland pastures of Nairnshire as it is
on our higher damp moors. In shape and plumage it looks like
a small lark, but in reality it is a very near relation of the wag-
tails. It emits a smell so strong that sportsmen are often misled
by their dogs "pointing" it instead of grouse. The nest is
always well concealed in a depression or side of a bank among
thick herbage, and is often selected by the cuckoo as a suitable
receptacle for her single egg.

TREE PIPIT. — (An thus trivialis.) — This is rather a rare species
in Ardclach — appearing from the South about the beginning of
May and leaving again by the end of September. We have not
often seen it, but the eggs have been sent to us several times for
identification. Being a solitary bird, it may not be tolerant even
of its own species to occupy trees in the vicinity of its chosen
abode. The nest is usually built near some favourite tree, and
the five or six eggs have a dull white ground colour and almost
entirely covered with dark brown or purple blotches. The shade
and markings, however, vary a great deal.

GREAT GREY SHRIKE. — (Lanius excubitor.) — A straggling
visitor comes occasionally as far north as the Moray Firth. On
the 25th April, 1892, Mr Sinton, gardener, Glenferness, sent us
for identification a specimen shot at Milton some ten days
previously. It was immediately forwarded to Mr M'Leay,
Inverness, for preservation, but he wrote saying—" Nothing can
be done with the butcher bird. It is much too old." Three
days later, the female shrike was observed flying about at Glen-
ferness House by the factor and gardener. Another bird of the
same species was shot by Mr Sinton in the garden in March,
1889, when shrikes were said to be pretty numerous about Forres.
In common with the other members of the family, this bird

THE FAUNA. 107

impales its prey — mice, lizards, and insects, &c. — on long thorns.
It is not known that any ever remained to breed in the district.
WAXWING. — (Ampelis garrulus.) — A very rare visitor to this
district. The late .Rev. Dr George Gordon, of Birnie, records
in his " Fauna of Moray " that four specimens were seen and two
killed at Glenferness in January, 1869. We have no experience,
however, of the bird in the parish during our time.

SPOTTED FLYCATCHER. — (Muscicapa grisola.) — Although this
species appears to be a common Summer migrant to the lower
reaches of Nairn and Moray, it is far from plentiful in Ardclach ;
indeed, we never had the good fortune to come across its nest.

SWALLOW. — (Hirundo rustica.) — One of the most welcome of
all the Summer visitors. It takes very kindly to the farmer's
square, especially in the lower parts of the county, and becomes
almost a domestic favourite during the breeding season — when it
is seldom disturbed. For a nesting site it frequently selects the
top of a joist in some cart-shed, cattle-fold, or other outhouse
where there is free access. The mud structure is saucer-shaped
and quite open at the top, though seldom far from the roof. The
eggs, which in ground colour are pure white, number from four
to six, but vary considerably in shape and markings.

HOUSE MARTIN. — (Chelidon urbica.) — At present (1896) we
do not know of any house martins building within the parish.
They are very local birds and often intermittent as to their
appearances at the old nesting sites. For many years (1858 to
1873) there were to be seen some half-dozen quarter-cup shaped
nests attached to the cross beams over the entrance to the home
square at Cawdor Castle. They are great favourites on account
of the perfect confidence displayed in rearing their young, in
many cases almost under the eye of the family in the window
corners, where the parents are seldom disturbed by the inmates.
Occasionally, however, an unfortunate pair may be attacked and
dispossessed by the impudence of some lazy but needy sparrow
couple.

108 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

SAND MARTIN. — (Cotile reparia.) — There are several well-
known colonies of this swallow in Ardclach. Arriving early in
Summer, it returns to its old quarters in some soft sand bank, as
at the Bell Tower and Tom an Uin, where the old nest is repaired
or a new burrow constructed according to circumstances. We
seldom see any martins remaining after the first week in
September. The eggs are laid by the end of May, and are from
four to six in number. They are pure white.

GOLDFINCH. — (Corduelis elegans.) — This beautiful bird —
crimson, black, white, and bright yellow — does occasionally pay
a visit to Ardclach. Half-a-century ago it was said to occur
rather plentifully in Moray and Nairn, but it is now less frequently
seen. During the Autumn season it leads a restless gipsy life ;
always roving about over the fields in search of its favourite
thistle seeds. As a songster the goldfinch takes a high rank, and
in this capacity may be oftener seen in confinement than free in
the open country. In August, 1882, I saw a stray male specimen
which stayed for a short time in my garden at the Ardclach
Schoolhouse. It builds an exceedingly neat and pretty nest in
which are laid four or five eggs, greyish white, spotted and
streaked with purplish brown.

SISKIN. — (Chrysomitris spinus.) — An occasional specimen is
to be met with in Ardclach among the fir woods. We ourselves
saw a pair flying about near the Ferness Schoolhouse, in February,
1895. As the nest is always built at a considerable height,
perhaps thirty or forty feet, in some spruce or pine tree, there is
no satisfactory evidence of its having bred in this parish. The
siskin is a pretty, active, musical little bird, but better known as
a captive than in a wild state. The eggs — usually five — are
pale, bluish-green, in ground colour, and spotted with dark
reddish brown.

GREENFINCH. — (Ligurinus chloris) — "Green Lintie." — In the
Southern end of Nairnshire, this is a fairly common and well-
known species. It is abundant along the Moray sea-board —

THE FAUNA. 109

frequenting gardens, shrubberies and hardwood plantations.
Concealing itself among the rich foliage, the green dress renders
its presence less easily detected. The nest is loosely constructed
in hedge or shrub, of straw roots and moss, with wool, hair, and
a few feathers. It generally receives from four to six eggs,
which are white, faintly spotted with purplish red at the larger
end.

COMMON SPARROW. — (Passer domesticus.) — A very familiar
and garrulous chatterer, not to say, even at times a most
impudent bird. In the country as well as in the city, it is
everywhere before our eyes. Omnivorous in taste, it has earned
a reputation for plunder and rapine from the farmer's stores, but
its Spring and Summer services amply repay him for the injuries
done during the Autumn and Winter seasons. In nature and
habits, the sparrow is hardy and adaptive to its environments
beyond most other species. The nest is placed indifferently in
trees, ivy, holes in walls, or, in fact, any safe and convenient
cavity. Three broods are often reared in one year.

TREE SPARROW. — (Passer montanus.) — It can only breed
occasionally in Ardclach. We ourselves have never found the
nest. The eggs, however, are in our local collection, and they
are now and then brought to us by the boys for identification.
To an ordinary observer this bird would almost certainly be
mistaken for a house sparrow and therefore passed over as such.

CHAFFINCH. — (Fringilla coelebs). Local names, " Chaffie,"
"Tree Lintie," Scotch name, " Shilfa."— Without doubt this is
the most abundant of the feathered tribes in Nairnshire. About
the house, by the roadside, and all over the woods it is equally
common. The male is a most beautiful bird, as well as a sweet
songster — one of the likeliest renderings of his short but cheery
lay being, "Toll-toll, pretty-little, d6-ar." The nest is an elaborate
structure of exceeding neatness and great beauty, always com-
pactly and securely built. In this respect it surpasses every other
British fabric of a similar kind. It is usually placed in a shrub

110 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

or tree from a few to fifty feet in height from the ground. Round
as the 0 of Giotto at the rim, the materials are blended so as to
resemble in a wonderful manner the prevailing colour of any
chosen environment of apple tree, hawthorn, oak, or elm. In
addition to the mosses, wool, and slender grasses selected by the
female architect, the lichens chiefly on the outside are Licandora
virellis, Palestina flava, Parmelia stellaris, Parmelia perlata,
Lastria sericea, Oria miora, with, perhaps, a few others of suitable
colouring so as to disguise and protect the structure as much as
possible from every source of danger until the young ones are
fully fledged and able to support themselves. The eggs, too, in
their comeliness, are a fitting ornament for such a pretty little
nest.

COMMON LINNET.— (Linota cannabina.)— "The Lintie," "Rose
Linnet." — The male, when in full nuptial plumage, with red poll,
and rose breast, is, indeed, a very handsome bird. It is scarcely
common in Ardclach, but resident. Owing to its capacity as a
songster, and its power of imitating the notes of other birds, it
is a great favourite for the cage. The nest is often placed among
whins and contains four to six eggs of a pale bluish-white ground
colour, speckled with light reddish brown and purplish red.

LESSER REDPOLL. — (Linota rufescens.) — Rare in Ardclach.
We are not sure that we have ever seen a specimen here.

TWITE. — (Linota flavirostris.) — "Heather Lintie." — Best known
in Ardclach as a moorland species, where it occurs in con-
siderable numbers. The nest may be found in a bunch of heather,
or under it on the ground. The eggs vary in number from four
to six, being pale greenish blue, blotched with reddish brown, and
somewhat inclined to streakiness. In Autumn, it may be seen in
flocks on the stubbles and ploughed lands.

BULLFINCH. — Pyrrhula europsea.) — This is really one of the
handsomest of all the British finches and fairly common in the
Glenferness and Dulsie woods. The full beauty of the male can
only be appreciated where he is most frequently seen, among the

THE FAUNA. Ill

green shades of the clustering leaves. Although he is persecuted
by the gardener, it is highly probable that his apparent destruct-
iveness may solely originate in a search for concealed insects
which at a later stage would completely kill the embryo fruit.
The sexes pair for life, and even the young ones usually remain
in the company of the parent birds during the Autumn and Winter
months. Outwardly the nest is a platform-shaped structure with
a cup-like bed in the middle. It usually receives from four to six
eggs, greenish-blue in ground colour, speckled, and sometimes
streaked with purplish brown, especially at the larger end.

CROSSBILL. — (Loxia curvirostra.)— A year seldom passes in
which the crossbills do not breed in the parish. After the young
are able to accompany the parents, they often assemble in large
numbers to feed upon the seeds contained in the fir cones. The
bill is a curious instrument, being crossed at the points like no.
other British bird, and becomes a wonderful seed extractor By
means of it they cling and climb among the branches like parrots.
When compelled by severe cold or scarcity of food to leave their
Northern home, they become " gipsy migrants," and may, in con-
sequence, be numerous or absent with us in successive seasons.
In the pine woods we have occasionally come across a flock so
busily engaged upon a fallen crop of cones that the birds have
generously permitted us, in watching their operations, to move about
among them as confidently as if we had been an honorary member
of their society. The nest is placed in a pine tree at some
distance from the ground, and contains four, rarely five, eggs,
which are greyish -white, sparsely dotted with several shades of
reddish-brown.

YELLOW HAMMER.— (Emberiza citrinella.)— " Yite," " Yella
Yorlin." — This is one of our best known birds, even vieing with
the canary in the richness of its yellow plumage. Unfortunately
an old superstition, now happily dying out, asserted that " The
yellow yorlin got a drap of the deil's bluid ilka May morning "
in order to streak and scroll its eggs with those curious markings

112 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

which, in the idea of some, procured for it the name of the
" Writing lark." In by gone days, too, the country peasant only
heard in its plaintive little song the words — " Deil, deil, deil tak'
ye," and concluded that it must be on the most familiar terms
with the Evil One. A great improvement,- however, is the
simple rendering which now commends itself to most right-
minded people — "A little bit of bread, and no-o cheese."
Although it resists cold in a high degree, it is a great lover of
heatj though it remains with us all the year. The nest is usually
placed on or near the ground, among rough herbage, and con-
tains the well-known eggs, four or five in number, which are
suffused, streaked, and clouded with dark brown and reddish-
purple. To me the whole clutch is a beautiful sight.

REED BUNTING. — (Emberiza schceniclus.) — At intervals a pair
may be seen almost anywhere over the parish, but never common.
In the Spring time it usually shifts its favourite haunts in the
marshy districts, and during that season we have seldom missed
observing a few individuals on the newly sown oat fields near the
Schoolhouse. From the sparrow-like back, together with the
white collar and black head, its identification ought to be easy.
It usually breeds on the ground, but the last nest we found on
the Black Burn was carefully built among long grass and rank
sedges. The eggs are of a pale reddish-brown colour, boldly
spotted and streaked with dark brown of a rich purple shade.

SNOW BUNTING.— (Plectrophenax nivalis.) "Snow-flake."—
Only a Winter visitor from the colder regions, but it usually
comes in large flocks seeking their food about the stack yards,
fields and waste grounds. There is no instance of their remaining
to breed in the parish, though, it is now known, that they have
nested for many years continuously among the Cairngorms, and
similar elevated summits in Scotland. The nest, lined with red
deer hair, and a few ptarmigan feathers, is placed in a crevice
among loose granite blocks, and contains five eggs, greyish-white,
spotted and blotched with brownish-red and purplish black.

THE FAUNA. 113

STARLING. — (Sturnus vulgaris.) — A well-known bird in this
parish, especially in the localities where it chooses to colonise and
breed. The plumage is richly coloured, and shows, in addition
to the spangling of white and buff, a beautiful gloss which some-
times shines in the sunlight like polished metal. As in the case
of the rook, the starling searches the fields for grubs and worms,
and to the extent of his success, proves himself the farmer's friend.
Xot only is he a clever egg-stealer, but even the newly hatched
young of the smaller birds are readily carried away from such
nests as he can easily find access to. The variety of his notes
has earned for him the reputation of a mimic, but his imitations
though striking, are not very exact. In Autumn the birds
gather in large flocks and execute those wonderful aerial
evolutions, which enable the spectator at once to identify the
performers though at a considerable distance. They build in the
most out-of-the-way places, and should their pale blue eggs be
gradually removed, leaving one or two in the nest, the female will
continue to lay for a long time.

MAGPIE. — (Pica rustica.) — So far as we can learn, the game-
keeper's gun has left Ardclach without a single specimen of this
beautiful bird for the last eight or ten years at least. Previous
to that time it was fairly plentiful in the parish, but abundant in
the lower reaches along the seaboard. On the 1st of April,
1896, a straggler paid a visit for an hour or so to the big pine
tree at Tomnarroch, but was nowhere to be seen on the following
day. In diet it is almost omnivorous : eating worms, snails,
slugs, and eggs, and even carrion, as well as young birds when it
can get them. Notwithstanding a bad reputation, which, we
think, has been greatly exaggerated, the magpie in bygone days
was regarded among the peasantry with peculiar interest and
affection. Its appearance, and the numbers noticed at one time,
were always significant. For example :—

" One's joy, two's grief ;
Three's a marriage, but four's death. "

114 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

In nest building this bird is a notable architect, and the sexes
pair for life. The eggs are usually six in number, of a pale
bluish-green, thickly spotted with olive-brown, and faintly
blotched with ash colour.

JACKDAW. — (Corvus monedula.) — Being a -highly intelligent
and adaptive bird the jackdaw is perhaps as well established
as he ever was among the cliffs of the Findhorn, to which he
appears to claim a hereditary right. Sallying out from these
ancestral abodes, he feeds in the adjacent pastures on worms,
insects, grain, and occasionally on carrion itself. Observing that
something good has fallen to the lot of any neighbouring species,
he does not hesitate to join their company, exercise his genius,
and levy a little blackmail on his less watchful companions.
The nest — often an enormous pile of sticks — is a rude enough
structure, and generally contains from four to six eggs of varying
size. The colour is pale bluish-green, spotted with black, olive-
brown, and violet-grey.

CARRION OR BLACK CROW — (Corvus corone) ; ml HOODED OR
GREY CROW (Corvus cornix) — are in all probability only varieties
of one kind. In Nairnshire, as elsewhere, they are about equally
numerous. Except in the accident of colour, they are identical
in size and language as well as in all the other habits of their life.
The fact that they frequently interbreed and that the progeny
are fertile inter se seems to show pretty conclusively that, barring
the different shades of plumage, these two forms are in no sense
a distinct species. Notwithstanding the incessant war carried on
against them by gamekeepers, they manage to look after their
own interests and retain a pretty strong hold of life. Greedy,
cowardly, and destructive — their great aim in life seems to be
only evil, with the ever present desire of doing as little good as
possible. They go in pairs all the year, and unless at a feast of
carrion, more than two are seldom seen at the same time. The
nest is generally built in a fairly high tree from which the owner
may be able to obtain a good outlook. It is always a large

THE FAUNA. 115

platform composed of sticks or twigs with a warm lining of wool
and hair or other soft materials. The eggs of either bird cannot
with certainty be distinguished from those of the other. Usually
the female lays from four to six of a pale bluish-green, spotted
with different shades of olive brown.

ROOK. — (Corvus frugilegus.) — Owing to the custom of associ-
ating in noisy crowds, the rook is better known than the jackdaw.
Although there is no rookery within the parish area, still the
birds are very plentiful. For years past, in the neighbouring
communities, great numbers of the young, as soon as they are
able to leave the nest in Spring, have to pay the annual blood-tax
to the local farmers in order to prevent an inordinate increase ;
but being an assertive species this bird appears to be quite able
to keep up the struggle for existence under the ever varying and
adverse conditions of life. Without ranking altogether as a
favourite in the district, yet he is in a measure protected and
allowed, during the greater part of the year, to roam freely over
the fields under the impression that he is doing more good than
harm. On these occasions he depends on the habit of posting
sentinels, and is by no means shy : soon learning to distinguish
real from false sources of alarm. The nest, when finished, is a
large structure. It is always placed among others on a lofty tree
beyond the reach of every terrestrial enemy. The eggs, which
show a strong family resemblance, are from four to six in number,
bluish-green, spotted and blotched with greyish-purple and olive
brown.

SKYLARK. — (Alauda arvensis.) — "Laverock." — This well-known
and favourite songster, though we regret to add, the victim of
epicures, is specially .fond of arable or pasture grounds. There
can be little doubt that here, as elsewhere, it is growing scarcer

from year to year. The song — a rapid flow of joyous notes is

permanently registered in every mind, and comes down to us
from Heaven's gate as fast and thick as the rain drops in a
Summer shower. In September the larks begin to assemble in.

116 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

flocks on the stubble fields, but often shift their ground in
accordance with the conditions of climate or their food supplies.
The nest is always made on the ground, and contains from four to
five somewhat variable eggs, greyish white, spotted and clouded
with olive brown.

SWIFT. — (Cypselus apus.) — A well-known Summer visitor,
arriving here about the month of May, and leaving again by the
end of July. The swift spends by far the greater part of his life
pursuing flies and other diptera in a ceaseless race through the
air. Considering the wonderful speed and the number of hours
he visibly passes on the wing — often in the severest weather — it
is not too much to say that he could easily encircle the globe at
least two or three times a month. In this parish we have never
been fortunate enough to find the nest, although there must be
breeding places from time immemorial. It is made of straw and
feathers glued together with the bird's saliva, and contains two
white oblong eggs with a rather rough shell.

NIGHTJAR. — (Caprimulgus europaeus.) — "Goatsucker," " Night-
hawk," " Fern-owl." — A regular Summer sojourner in the parish,
though never occurring in large numbers. Every season, however,
on a fine warm evening a male bird may be heard uttering his
prolonged " churring " note in most of the fir woods over the
district, but the stony ground, more or less covered with ferns,
is a preferably favourite haunt. " When reposing on a branch
this species sits lengthwise, with the head lower than the body."
From year to year, on the bare ground, in, or near the same spot,
the female lays her two creamy white eggs, blotched and veined
in endless variety with brownish black and purplish grey. In
my collection there is an egg-shell from which a healthy gorblet
was hatched in due form. Finding it (1883) beside the nest, in
the Dulsie wood, I carefully gummed the parts together and set
it up as a very interesting specimen among my other eggs.

KINGFISHER,— (Alcedo ispida.)— The Findhorn has long been
a reputed habitat for this beautiful bird, but though it has un-

THE FAUNA. 117

doubtedly occurred here from time to time it cannot be set down
as other than a rare visitor. The late James Falconer, for many
years gamekeeper at Dunearn. informed me that he has more
than once met with it on the river. In the Inverness " Courier,"
of 24th July, 1896, there is a notice, by "Nether Lochaber," of
one which was shot on the Findhorn some days previously. It
is by far the most brilliantly coloured bird in the British Isles.
The nest is a bored or selected hole in a bank near water and
usually contains from six to eight pure white eggs of a globular
form.

CUCKOO. — (Cuculus canorus.) — " Gowk." — The " beauteous
messenger of Spring " is always a welcome as well as a regular
migrant to the parish. Arriving, often during the "Gowk's
storm," about the end of April, the old birds are mostly away by
August. Although a timid bird, its bold figure and barred
hawk-like plumage, give it a fierce, predacious, and deceptive
appearance to the smaller birds. The female makes no nest.
Her egg is laid on the bare ground, and carried either in bill or
claw to the selected nest — usually, a hedge-sparrow's, titlark's or
water- wagtail's. After it is hatched, in order to secure the entire
food supply, the young cuckoo becomes uneasy and restless until
it has managed to eject the rightful owners, and thereby estab-
lish itself as the sole possessor of the nest. It has been pointed
out that this curious habit enables the cuckoo to leave a more
numerous progeny during her short stay in Northern Europe, and
also to migrate earlier than she would otherwise be able to do.

LONG-EARED OWL. — (Asio otus.) — Being a rather silent as well
as a nocturnal species, this bird is probably more plentiful in the
parish than is generally supposed. Frequenting the fir planta-
tions, it builds in the trees and often utilises the old nests of
other birds. The eggs are four to six in number, nearly round,
with pure white shells.

TAWNY OWL.— (Syrnium aluco.)— " Wood Owl."— We think
the Tawny Owl is, or was, pretty numerous in the district, both

118 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

from its hootings and the frequency with which it gets caught in
the keepers' pole-traps. It prefers to build in the hollow trunk
of some decayed tree, especially if hidden by foliage or ivy. The
three eggs in my collection are from a rabbit's burrow on the
Glenferness side of the river. They are pure white, and nearly
round.

COMMON BUZZARD. — (Buteo vulgaris.; — Formerly a common
enough and resident species here, but within recent years has
become a very rare visitor. One was caught in a trap on the
Findhorn island below the Rock Walk on the 1st March, 1887,
and is now preserved in the Mansion House. It preys on small
mammals, reptiles, birds, and occasionally on the larger insects.
The nest is built on a high precipice or tall forest tree, and
usually contains three eggs which are greyish- white, more or less
blotched and streaked with reddish-brown.

SPARROW HAWK. — (Accipiter nisus.) — Formerly a very
abundant species in this district but now greatly reduced in
numbers, being rigorously persecuted by gamekeepers in the
interests of sport. It preys by choice on small birds and even on
domestic chickens, but its flight is always short and near the
ground. In feeding, like the other hawks, it does not seem to
know where the life of its victim is placed. The nest is frequently
that of some other bird, and the eggs — four or five — are pale
bluish white in ground colour, irregularly blotched and spotted
and sometimes zoned with different shades of reddish-brown.

HONEY BUZZARD. — (Pernis apivorus.) — Only an irregular
straggler in the parish. We do not know of any evidence that
it has ever nested here.

PEREGRINE FALCON. — (Falco peregrinus.) — A stray specimen
or two may occasionally be still found in the parish. An eyrie
was built annually for many years near Balnought, in a high
cliff on the Findhorn. From this stronghold we got a pair of
eggs in 1860, taken by the late Hugh Macbean, gamekeeper,
Drynachan Lodge. However swift of wing the quarry may be,

THE FAUNA. 119

it is almost invariably overtaken by the peregrine and struck
down. It makes little or no nest ; the eggs — two to four — being
laid in a slight hollow scratched on the edge of the rock. In
colour they vary from freckled orange brown to rich brick red.

MERLIN. — (Falco aesalon.) — Generally the merlin must be con-
sidered a scarce species in the district, but the keepers seldom
fail to find a nest during the season on one or other of the
Glenferness moors. Although the smallest of the native falcons,
in courage it is second to none, sometimes even striking down
and killing a quarry twice its own weight ; but it preys chiefly
on the smaller birds The nest is a mere hollow, usually con-
taining from four to six eggs of a deep reddish-brown colour
without gloss.

KESTREL. — (Falco tinnunculus.) — " Windhover." — We regret
that owing to a mistaken persecution the kestrel is, without
doubt, a decreasing species, notwithstanding the nesting facilities
among the precipitous cliffs of the Findhorn. When searching
on the wing for prey, it may frequently be observed to suddenly
check its flight, and remain almost perfectly steady in mid air
while examining the area immediately below. Feeding for the
most part on mice and voles, it is an excellent friend to the
farmer and ought to be carefully protected by every one inter-
ested in agriculture. In its breeding habits it often selects a high
tower or the old nest of a crow or magpie, but it loves a recess
on some beetling crag, where it may rear its young in safety.
The eggs — four or five — are yellowish-white, blotched or even
deeply suffused with brownish-red.

CORMORANT. — (Phalacrocorax carbo.) — Only an irregular visi-
tor to the Lochs of Belivat, Aitnoch, and Boath during Summer.
The preserved specimen now (1896) in our possession was shot in
Cawdor in 1864.

COMMON HERON. — (Ardea cinerea.)--" Lang Craiget Heron."
—Although there is no heronry at present in Nairnshire, this
bird is frequently seen in the county. Occasionally a pair may

120 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

be found nesting in a tall spruce along the Findhorri or in any of
the sheltered woods over the district. Generally the heron
breeds in communities, but at other seasons it is a solitary bird,
both on the wing as well as when fishing in its favourite pools.
The three or four eggs are a uniform bluish-green and about the
size of an average hen's egg.

BITTERN. — (Botaurus stellaris.) — A rare visitant to this part of
the country. On the 19th November, 1891, a bittern in rather
poor condition was shot by Peter Robertson, gamekeeper, as it
rose from the bank of the pond near Coulmony. It was sent to
Mr Macleay, Inverness, for preservation. On the 20th June,
1884, another was obtained by Lieutenant Frazer, at Loch
Flemington, neer Fort-George, and sent to the same taxidermist
to be stuffed.

MALLARD.— (Anas boscas.)— " Wild Duck."— Owing to the
increased drainage and cultivation of waste land in the district,
this species, though resident, is not so numerous as in bygone
years. " The tame duck differs from the mallard only in its
heavier body and shorter wings, and in being polygamous instead
of monogamous in its habits." The nest is usually on the ground
near fresh water on the rough moors, although at times it may
be found at a distance from it, in a hedge, a tree, or even in the
deserted nest of some other bird. The eggs are from eight to
twelve in number and of a pale greyish green colour. '

TEAL. — (Querquedula crecca.) — Although at one time plentiful
among our bogs and mosses, the teal can scarcely be said to be
more than frequent now-a-days, but it occurs oftener in Winter
than throughout the Summer. Extensive drainage, both on the
moor and the farm, amply accounts for the general decrease. It
is the smallest as well as the most beautiful and delicate of the
British ducks. Disliking sunlight, it usually comes out after
nightfall, and feeds on aquatic plants, worms, insects, seeds and
slugs. As a rule the nest is built on the margin of a loch, or at
times among heather on the moor at a considerable distance from

THE FAUNA. 121

water, and contains eight or ten eggs of a creamy white or pale
buff colour.

GOOSANDER, — (Mergus merganser.)— " Saw-neb." — Only a
Winter visitor, ascending the Findhorn from the lower reaches.
Almost every season we hear of a pair or two, but are not aware
that any ever remained to nest within the parish boundaries.

RING DOVE.— (Columba pa lumbus.)— " Cushat," "CushieDoo,"
"Wood pigeon." — Quite a common species and about equally
distributed over the parish wherever there is wood shelter. In
the higher districts the numbers seldom, if ever, reach the pest
stage, but at the same time the bird is no favourite with the
farmer. In addition to grain and crops of most kinds, it con-
sumes large quantities of charlock seeds, and those of many other
hurtful weeds. The cushat is the handsomest as well as the largest
of the British doves. When startled in the twilight from its
roosting place in the woods, it rushes through the branches with
great flurry and a loud clapping of wings. The pigeon probably
pairs for life, and the love notes may be heard almost throughout
the year, but they are specially clear and passionate during the
nuptial season. Approaching his bride with much ceremony and
grace, the male cheers her from time to time with the affectionate
assurance, " I do love you, dear Katie," and finishes off his thrice
repeated pledge with " I will love you, dear Katie, yes." The
nest is a rude platform of withered twigs laid across the branches
of a middle sized tree. The eggs are always two in number,
with pure white glossy shells.

STOCK DOVE. — (Columba oenas.) — From the large numbers
occurring along the Moray seaboard a few pairs have penetrated
as far up the Findhorn as Ardclach, but I am not sure that I am
yet (1896) possessed of an undoubted pair of local eggs. The
usual nesting places are in holes in the rock, rabbit burrows, and
stocks of trees — hence the English name. The eggs are two in
number, but of a more creamy tint than those of its near relatives,
the ring and rock doves.

122 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

CAPERCAILLIE.— (Tetrao urogallus.) — The capercaillie, in by-
gone years, was a common inhabitant of the old pine forests along
the Findhorn, but appears to have become extinct throughout the
country about a century ago. In 1837 it was re-introduced from
Sweden and is again plentiful in Perthshire. An unsuccessful
attempt was made in 1882 to rear birds from eggs on the Glen-
ferness estate. On the project being abandoned, I procured a
pair of eggs and mounted them for my collection. From one or
two hatchings, however, about the year 1884, in the Clunas
woods, it appeared that this fine bird was likely to thrive once
more in the district. By 1892 there were several pairs which
were carefully protected by Lord Cawdor, and James Mackillican,
Esq., of Calcutta, the neighbouring shooting tenant. For a few
months in the following year some specimens were noticed in the
Darnaway forest — probably by migration from Clunas — but since
then none has been seen. The nest is a mere hollow, scraped
in the ground under a tree or bush, and contains from six to
twelve eggs of a pale reddish yellow, with brown spots and
blotches.

BLACK GROUSE.— (Tetrao tetrix.)— The sexes of this species
are generally known as the black-cock and the grey-hen.
Although protected in Nairnshire like other game, we fear the
birds are gradually decreasing in numbers. They frequent both
the wood and the moor, but seem most partial to districts of a
mixed character. The male is polygamous and opens the nuptial
season by engaging in several desperate combats with rival cocks
until — winning lady after lady — he secures the proper number
for his private harem. At this time he is full of love and spirit,
and nightly chants his amorous ditties to his admiring wives.
Even in death he is beautiful, for, according to the old saying : —
" The three prettiest dead are, a little child, a white trout, and a
black cock." Each hen makes a slight nest, usually under some
small bush, and lays from six to ten eggs, yellowish-white, with
orange-brown spots.

THE FAUNA. 123

RED GROUSE. — (Lagopus scoticus.) — "Muir-fowl." — Indigenous
only to the British Islands, and preserved to the fullest extent
on the Nairnshire moors. Pairing takes place in the early Spring
— the male wooing his bride with many curious sounds, together
with a strange fantastic dancing performance. He is strictly
monogamous. His partner scratches a scanty hollow under a
tuft of heather, where she lays from eight to ten eggs of a buffish-
white ground colour blotched with dark red or brown.

PHEASANT.— (Phasianus colchicus). — Although there has been
no rearing for some years past (1896) on the estates in this
neighbourhood, yet the pheasant may be said to be frequent in
the parish. As these birds are great wanderers, the numbers
may be kept up from distant preserves. The male takes bo wing
much more readily than the female, which appears to trust her
safety more confidently to similarity of environment than her
gaily attired lord considers it his duty to do. That pheasants
may thrive, there must be good cover and plenty of fresh water,
but when left to themselves, unless the conditions be extremely
favourable, they always decrease in numbers, and gradually
become extinct. The Reeve's pheasants were tried on Glen-
ferness some ten years ago (1896) by the Earl of Leven and
Melville, but finding them worthless as game birds the further
attempt was given up. The nest is on the ground and simply a
rude collection of leaves and grasses, among which eleven or
twelve olive brown eggs are laid.

PARTRIDGE.— (Perdix cinerea.) — " Pair trick." — Owing to the
light soil in the cultivated areas of the parish, partridges occur
very frequently. Living in coveys of some ten to twenty birds,
they usually feed in the early morning, but love to enjoy a noon-
day siesta in the hot sunshine. Before going to sleep at night
the members group themselves in such a manner that a watch is
maintained on all sides against the approach of any night
prowling creature which might be dangerous to the little society.
When the young are hatched both parents are most attentive to

124 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

their tender brood, and in suspicious circumstances counterfeit
lameness so as to direct attention to the possible capture of the
old birds, while in the meantime each chick is finding for itself
some convenient place of safety. The tiest is generally placed
on the ground among corn or under a hedge. In June, 1887, a
trustful partridge built in our garden at Ardclach, within four
yards from the playground gate and close to the road leading to
the Schoolhouse. Here she laid and hatched fifteen eggs in
perfect confidence. The colour is a uniform olive brown.

LANDRAIL. — (Crex pratensis.) — " Corn crake," " Corn scraich."
— Every one knows the incessant nightly crake of this familiar
bird although few have seen it alive. After its arrival in May
the Ardclach farmers believe that all danger to their crops from
frost is over for the season. Meadow lands and corn fields are
its favourite haunts, and one or more pairs are likely enough to
occur on every farm within the parish. Swift of foot and
extremely shy, it is provokingly elusive among the upright
grassy stems, where it can run as rapidly as a partridge over the
smoothest ground. From the locality chosen for the nest, the
young are generally hatched in safety. Seven to ten eggs are
laid of a reddish-white in ground colour and spotted with grey
and rufous brown.

WATER RAIL. — (Kallus aquaticus.) — A very wary little
creature, swimming and diving with ease, but, owing to its
retired nature, not often seen ; yet it is pretty frequent along the
Findhorn and other streams and pools in the parish. It breeds
where it lives, among the coarse aquatic herbage, and lays from
seven to eleven eggs of a pale creamy white, thinly flecked with
reddish-brown and grey.

MOORHEN.— (Gallinula chloropus.)— u Water hen."— Pretty
generally distributed and resident over the parish wherever there
is water conveniences. It occurs on the Lochs of Belivat and
Boath as well as each of the three others south of the Findhorn.
At Littlemill it may frequently be seen feeding on the Black

THE FAUNA. 125

Burn close to the public road, and apparently in nowise put about
at the sound of conveyances or the sight of travellers. When
alarmed, however, it dives, and is able to remain for a long time
under water — often clinging to the weeds so as to permit of its
nostrils alone being above the surface. The nest is usually
placed among the sedges, and contains seven or eight eggs,
reddish- white in ground colour, thinly speckled and spotted with
orange brown.

COOT. — (Fulica atra.) — In Ardclach this is exclusively a loch
bird — almost always on the water — and decidedly less numerous
than the foregoing species. From the pure white naked patch on
the brow it is often known as the " Bald Coot." In general
appearance it is pretty much like a big homely -coloured moorhen,
and, if wounded, will scratch its captor the same as an angry cat.
Coots make a large rough nest of dried sedges, usually raised a few
inches above the water. The eggs are from seven to ten in
number and of a stone colour, minutely spotted with dark brown.

GOLDEN PLOVER. — (Charadnus pluvialis.) — Frequent on the
Southern moors of Nairnshire, where several pairs, on their
annual return northwards, remain for a month or two to breed
every season. After the young are able to fly, the birds assemble
in flocks and migrate to the flat grounds along the seaboard.
The nest, a simple hollow among heather, is scantily lined with
dry grass, and the eggs, four in number, are of a yellowish stone
colour, handsomely blotched and spotted, with rich brownish
black.

LAPWING.— (Vanellus vulgaris.) — " Green Plover," " Teuchet,"
" Peeweet," " Wallochie-weet," and " Peesweep." — Great numbers
visit the parish in the early Spring, and remain to nest in the
marshy pastures and fallow land. The first sound of the
peeweet's familiar cry on the moors, is always hailed with
delight, as a sure sign that dreary Winter has gathered up his
snowy robes for the time, and that milder Summer days are close
at hand. If the nest be approached during incubation, the hen

126 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

steals off and runs away in the most hidden manner possible,
while her lord sets up a series of the most frantic aerial swoops
and twirls, in order to intimidate or allure the intruder away
from their valued treasures. We are pleased to say that,
hitherto, (1896), the eggs have not been gathered in this parish
for the market. In Autumn, the lapwings leave Ardclach for
the coast line, or migrate to the South for the Winter. Few
other birds are so useful to the farmer. They devour snails,
beetles, and several injurious larvae that infest grass, turnips and
oats. As they are chiefly evening feeders, they pick up not a
few nocturnal insects which commit serious harm during the
night. The simple nest usually contains four eggs of an olive
green ground colour, with blackish brown blotches.

OYSTER-CATCHER.— (Haamatopus ostralegus.)— " Sea-pyet."-
Every one is familiar with this noisy bird on its arrival in Spring
all along the Findhorn, but strange to say, many in the parish do
not know even its popular name. Owing to its bright colours —
black and white feathers, orange-red bill and pink legs — some
people regard it as the most beautiful of the shore birds. Oyster-
catchers show a marked preference for gravelly soil, or shingle
beds, often far inland by the river side. Among these the hen
deposits her three eggs, which are so like their natural environ-
ments that a novice may even be looking at her treasures and
not see them. I have a pair of eggs found in a fallow field on
the Mains of G-lenferness, about half-a-mile from the river, and
eleven from the sea. After the breeding season is over, these
birds return to the coast, and many go South for the Winter.

WOODCOCK. — (Scolopax rusticula.) — Formerly the woodcock
was only a Winter visitant in Nairnshire from the great pine
forests of Northern Europe. In 1860, the late Mr W. A. Stables,
Cawdor Castle, showed me in his cabinet, what he believed to be
the first nest with the usual contents ever built in the county.
Since then, owing to the increase of fir plantations, this species
has taken kindly to the country, and a nest in the district is not

THE FAUNA. 127

in any way considered a rarity at the present time. The birds
love to hide themselves through the day in woods and brakes —
the red and mottled plumage so closely resembling the colour of
the usual surroundings, that though visible, they are seldom
distinguishable unless the spectator chances to notice the large
and lustrous black eyes shining through the overhanging foliage.
In cases of supposed danger, it is well known that the mother
will remove her young ones to a place of safety. On the llth of
April, 1896, a nest was found in a sheltered hollow on the
Tomnarroch Burn, with the usual four slightly pyriform,
yellowish eggs, with brown markings. They are now in my
collection.

COMMON SNIPE. — (G-alliriago coelestis.) — Although far from
plentiful in the district, a few pairs may generally be found in
the spongier hollows, and about the grassy flats which margin
the lochs of Belivat and Aitnoch. Severe frost decimates their
numbers by cutting off the usual food supplies. Early in April,
after pairing, the males begin their curious aerial performances
and produce the peculiar sound known as drumming or
bleating, hence the name " heather bleater." This they continue
until the young are hatched. The snipe is a marsh breeder, and
makes a very simple nest, usually in the side of a tuft of bog
grass. Four eggs — large for the bird— are laid, of a yellowish
or greenish white, and blotched with several shades of brown.

COMMON SANDPIPER. — (Totarius hypoleucus.)— The shingly
margins of the Findhorn and Meikle Burn are the favourite
Summer haunts of our local sandpipers, where they are frequent
enough. Although living in pairs in the most secluded spots,
they are lively, restless little creatures, always running or flitting
along the river margin. Both old and young swim with great
ease, and, to escape danger, will dive as readily as a duck or a
water hen. In her anxiety to divert attention from her eggs or
young, the mother often displays wonderful strategy — fluttering
along the surface like a wounded bird. The nest, which is

128 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

generally a fairly substantial structure, is always near the water,
and contains four pear-shaped eggs, but somewhat bigish con-
sidering the size of the .bird. For the most part they are reddish
white, and minutely spotted with two shades of brown.

COMMON REDSHANK. — (Totanus cdlidris.) — A fairly common
Summer species, reaching; the nesting grounds on the moors in
April from the shore. Early in Autumn, or as soon as the young
are able for the journey, they return to the seaside — many going
south for the Winter. The redshank is a very vigilant and
clamorous bird. The nest, usually on a green spot, is a slight
depression scantily lined with dried grass and, mayhap, a few
leaves. Four eggs are laid, of a yellowish-grey ground colour,
blotched and dotted with purplish-brown.

CURLEW. — (Numenius arquata.) — " Whistling Whaup." — The
weird and plaintive " cour-lie " of this bird is a familiar sound
during the nesting season on the open moors and heathery up-
lands of Nairnshire. Flying high overhead, he is persistently
loquacious. The cry is singularly striking, clear, and wild in
character. The most vigilant of the feathered species, he is the
unceasing sentinel of all the associated denizens within his chosen
domains, and few, if any, fail to thoroughly understand his
anxious warnings. The nesting ground is generally on the flat
boggy parts of the moor. In a very simple nest three or four
eggs are laid, of an olive green, blotched and spotted with dark
brown and dusky green.

COMMON TERN. — (Sterna flu viatilis.)— Said to have bred on
the Loch of Belivat with the black-headed gulls, but we have no
personal or other reliable evidence.

BLACK (BROWN )-HEADED GULL.— (Larus ridibundus.)— " Picki-
tar." — A very regular visitor to the parish during the breeding
season, and fairly large colonies have established themselves in
the Lochs of Belivat and Boath, while a few pairs annually nest
on an islet of a shallow lakelet in the Dulsie Wood. For some
years (1870 to say 1875) the gullery at Belivat was protected,

THE FAUNA.

but we regret to say that since then the eggs have been indis-
criminately gathered by any one who cared to wade the marsh
for them. This species is a great benefactor to the farmer.
During the day large numbers follow the plough and pick up
worms and other grub just as they are laid bare in the furrow.
Fond of insect food, they show great aptitude, in the calm
Summer evenings, in catching moths along the river course and
among trees. The Winter dress is so much like that of the-
common gull and kittiwake that it is almost impossible to dis-
tinguish the one from the other when feeding in company along
the sea-shore. As already noticed, the favourite breeding site is-
swamp or loch island, where the nests contain normally three
eggs, which are very variable in ground colour, from olive brown
to pale green, blue, or salmon, blotched with black and dark
brown. I possess a pair, showing a green basis, and one salmon
coloured egg (rather rare) found in the Loch of Belivat in May,
1893.

COMMON GULL.— (Larus canus.)— "Sea Maa," or "Gu."— A
few pairs regularly visit the district, and may occasionally be
seen following the plough in company with the more numerous
black-headed gulls, but during recent years we have not heard of
any nests occurring either on the lochs or moors within the
parish. This is probably owing to the excessive preservation of
game in all its former nesting places among the Nairnshire
uplands.

LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL. — (Larus fuscus.) — This species
comes regularly up from the coast in the end of April, but is
decreasing owing to the incessant war carried on against it by
gamekeepers. There is a small nesting colony on a marshy flat
above the Meikle Lyne. The eggs, three in number, are generally
laid about the middle of May. They show considerable variety
in pattern and are of a light stone colour, spotted and blotched
with blackish-brown and grey.

GREAT BLACK-BACKED GULL. — (Larus marinus.)— A pair or

130 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

two of these rapacious gulls do occasionally visit the parish, but
seldom breed here In May, 1881, however, I got a pair of eggs.
now in my collection, from a nest in a marsh above Lynemore,
Nothing in the way of food comes amiss to them, either on the
moor or the sea-shore. The nest has never more .than three eggs
and often two, while it sometimes happens that only one is laid.
The colour is stone buff, sparingly blotched with dark grey and
umber over the whole surface.

CHAPTEE V.

INSECT LIFE.

Insects form an important section of the Animal Kingdom, and
may be easily distinguished from the higher orders by observing
that their bodies are divided into three well defined parts — caput,
thorax, and abdomen. In the imago, or perfect state, they possess
six legs, and usually four wings, although the second pair, in the
Diptera or fly family, is always very imperfectly developed. The
study is highly educative and one of the most fascinating branches
of natural science. Here, the student enters upon a vast field,
and sees in its various departments one extraordinary vital chain,
linked together by the most ingenious contrivances and beautiful
designs. The body, too, has been strangely modified into almost
every possible form, but in all cases corresponding exactly to the
necessities and habits of each individual, while the brilliancy of
colour, even in the lower forms, rivals the most gorgeous tints
within the domains of Flora herself. In one respect there is a
striking difference. On the death of the flower, its beauty
immediately begins to fade, whereas the adornment of the insect
is, in the vast majority, permanent, and shows as prettily when a
cabinet specimen, as a happy occupant in its own native woods-
and fields.

132 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Even the tiniest midge has a peculiar and interesting life
history, with a distinct sphere in creation — therein fulfilling the
purpose of its existence in the most perfect manner. Not a few
among their countless hosts, by casting in their lot with man,
liave found, through his labours, an improved means of subsis-
tence. Working in secret on his various crops, or personal
property, they too often inflict serious losses, and tax his greatest
ingenuity to save his possessions from total destruction. On the
other hand, we find among them some of our best friends, such as
the bee and the silkworm, as well as the scavenger millions which
•eat up, or bury all kinds of decaying and offensive matter, whereby
the air is rendered fresh and wholesome.

For the study of Entomology, there is no lack of subjects.
Throughout the Summer, every meadow, stream, and bush teems
with insects, imparting life and beauty even to the upland wilds
where the barren sod is seldom trodden by the human foot. The
least observant can scarcely help noticing that butterflies, bees
and moths, like birds, are continually sailing through the air, or
flitting about from flower to flower, in the open field — the former
by day and the latter chiefly at night. On the ground, beetles,
earwigs and grasshoppers, are frequently to be seen running and
jumping in all directions, or busily engaged in the preparation
of their secret burrows or simply enjoying life in the happy
discharge of their all important domestic duties.

Agile and playful beyond comparison, every one must have
observed that the Whirlgigs (Gyrinus natator) seem never to tire
of racing and circling over the glassy pool, while their purely
aquatic brethren are leisurely swimming and diving about in the
shady depths below. Clad in the most brilliant armour, they
sparkle and glitter in the bright sunshine, like living stars in an
azure sky. Now and again there is a pause in the mazy dance,
as if breathing for a little to brace their wasted energies, but in
a moment they are off and as frolicsome as before.

Insects have no respect for persons. They live in the palace,

INSECT LIFE. 133

but enjoy life with the humblest peasant. The Common Fly
(Musca domestica), and its near allies may be found sporting and
dancing in every hall, room and dingy closet over the land ; now
climbing smooth walls or walking across the ceiling without once
slipping a foot, or manifesting the least concern as to the laws of
gravitation. Not less astonishing is another favourite resort.
Ever and anon, they seem to delight in tripping fearlessly along,
in every possible attitude, the polished surface of the window panes.
And, when the family table is set for the usual repast, they
promptly sample the choicest viands the moment they are brought
in, dine on the various meats, and even sip dessert from the
individual inmates themselves, as they sit at meals or enjoy a
quiet nap by the evening fire.

Upon insects, Nature appears to have lavished much of her
inimitable skill with a liberal hand, and bestowed on them the most
delicate touches of an unrivalled pencil. From these, the individual
derives distinctive as well as valuable protective benefits. In
general beetles are despised and avoided as particularly loathsome
and ugly. This is, no doubt, owing to an old delusive prejudice,
for, on examination we find that they are as cleanly, dainty and
orderly in all their ways as any among the higher animals. They
are wonderfully defended by a strong mail covering which, in this
country, usually shines with a lustre like burnished jet. Two, at
least, among our local species,— the Green Tiger and Rose beetles,
(Cicindela campestris, and Cetonia aurata)— are, however, truly
handsome insects, being scarcely less gaudy than many average
specimens from tropical regions.

Among butterflies, the ornamentation is striking and interesting.
With few exceptions they abound in gay colouring, beautifully
embossed in rainbow hues. The wings are curiously studded
over with hieroglyphic figures, streaks, and bands, which are
frequently glossed with such a radiant metallic shimmer that the
effect is often found to be quite indescribable. Not a few are
prettily bespangled with iridescent spots which glitter on the

134 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

surface like mother-of-pearl, while others show markings which
might well stand for Arabic characters in their cruder forms.
Two moths bear tracings so clearly representing certain Greek
letters that the respective owners, on that account, have been
named Plusia gamma and Polia chi. Over the. whole family, the
diversity of embellishment and design which obtains for their
special decoration and protective benefit is simply marvellous.
The resemblance at times is so admirably assimilated to the
objects generally selected for rest and sleep that the insect by
an extraordinary dissimulation practically becomes invisible to a
predaceous enemy. In their ordinary habitats these bright
ethereal creatures are perfect natural gems, stained in azure,
green, or purple designs, and their presence even in the most
desolate wastes, provides an endless source of pleasure and
instruction.

" It may be said," writes an able modern Entomologist, " that
on the expanded membranes of the wings, Nature writes, as on
a table, the story of the modifications of species, so truly do all
changes of the organisation register themselves thereon. More-
over, the same colour patterns of the wings generally show, with
great regularity, the degrees of blood relationship of the species.
As the laws of nature must be the same for all beings, the
conclusions furnished by this group of insects must be applicable
to the whole organic world ; therefore the study of butterflies,
instead of being despised, will some day be valued as one of the
most important branches of biological science."

It has sometimes been affirmed that Entomology cannot be
successfully prosecuted without inflicting much unnecessary suffer-
ing, and, that in all cases the study demands the death of its-
subjects. The latter statement is frankly admitted ; but with
respect to the former, and more serious charge, we assert that the
preliminary pain is infinitely less than that deliberately caused
by the sportsman, the butcher, and the fisher. The truth is, that
unless' the student knew how to kill his captures almost instan-

INSECT LIFE. 135

taneously, his progress in this science would not only be greatly
retarded, but prove utterly worthless. A neglected or tortured
insect would involve much additional trouble to name and prepare,
and become absolutely useless as a specimen in the owner's
cabinet. When the insect loses its life in the hands of the
Entomologist, the natural event is only anticipated by a few days
or weeks at the most, for in countless instances, this is done
independently by birds, fishes and other insects which rely for
daily existence on the numbers they destroy. Still further,
there can be no comparison between the nervous systems of the
higher and lower organisms. Acute though sensation may be at
the head of the animal scale, it gradually becomes less and less
perceptive as we approach the bottom.

In the warm Summer evening^, the Crane Fly (Tipula), is a
frequent visitor in our rooms, where it is sometimes chased as an
unwelcome intruder. In the struggle to elude its pursuer, it has
often to sacrifice a limb or two, but flies away as merrily as if
nothing had happened. Experiment shows that the head of a
wasp will attempt to bite after separation from the trunk, and
the abdomen often succeeds in avenging impending death by
stinging the perpetrator even though it has been some time
removed from the vital nerve centre. But in recent times, through
the general application of choloform or cyanide of potassium, the
Entomologist is enabled to kill his specimens in the most perfect
condition and without imparting the remotest feeling of pain.

THF TRANSFORMATION PERIOD.

The Butterfly did not come into the world as we see it during
the warm Summer months. Like the bird family, it was hatched
from an egg, laid by its immediate ancestor in some carefully
selected spot, surrounded by the necessary food on which it
might feed and crawl about until it became an adult caterpillar.
Strictly speaking, in this condition it is not a simple but a com-
pound organic structure. Akin to the acorn which incloses the

136 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

germ of what might develop a mighty oak, the larva contains the
embryo of the succeeding butterfly. For weeks, and sometimes
for months, this poor creature is confined to the ground, creeping
rather laboriously from place to place, with no other concern than
the gratification of a keen and healthy appetite. During this
stage, it grows and casts off skin after skin until it reaches
maturity. Having become full fed, it ceases to eat, and, by a
wonderful instinct attaches itself with great care, by a silken
ligature, to a leaf or other substance. In this position it under-
goes a curious change and passes into a state of apparent death.
Henceforward, through the Winter months it has a striking
mummy-like aspect. Enshrouded as if for an ancient sarcophagus,
there is no visible mouth, eyes, or limbs, and it indicates to the
touch no other life sign beyond a feeble vibrating action in the
posterior joints. The hibernal resting place, according to the
species, may be in earth, air, or water. If dissected while in this
condition, the organism presents little more than a thickish liquid
mass, in which we fail to discover anything to indicate the higher
order into which it is soon to develop. In due course, however,
the seasons revolve ; and under the influence of the sun's invigor-
ating rays, the exterior vestment is again broken up, and yields
a bright ethereal creature, dressed in rainbow hues of exceeding
delicacy and beauty, but entirely different from its former self
in any of the three previous stages.

Arrayed in full nuptial glory, the Butterfly is one of the most
elegant and serial of beings — almost independent of food, and
capable of enjoying a wider range of pleasures, both on the earth
and in the air. We now look in vain for the late powerful jaws
which cut and masticated its rough vegetable provender ; and
notice that these are replaced by a long and delicate spiral
proboscis, curiously fitted for imbibing the honeyed secretions
from the hidden nectaries of field or garden flowers. The short
clasping and suctorial legs have all disappeared, and, instead, we
observe six well developed limbs springing from the thorax,

INSECT LIFE. 137

each divided, as in the higher orders, into femur, tibia and tarsi.
But stranger still, the twelve almost invisible eyes, on which it
formerly depended for light and guiding, have been transformed,
into two large convex lenses composed of thousands of facets, each
of which, it is supposed constitutes a separate and effective eye I
Its new faculties at this stage are completely matured, and the
perfect insect bursts forth to enjoy the highest perfection of its
nature. Obedient to a strong parental impulse, the bridal mother
in search of a suitable nidus, flits about over the gay meadows
animated with a wonderful anxiety on behalf of her future
offspring, not one of which she is ever destined to see or care for.

Every one must have noticed with admiration, the strong
affection entertained by all the higher animals for their young.
The cat does nob hesitate to attack any strange dog the moment
she considers her kittens to be in danger, and the hen will
boldly face a powerful bird of prey in order to protect her help-
less brood from its murderous talons. Not less wonderful is the
love of offspring which we find implanted in the female breast of
the lowly and despised insect. Both the butterfly and the moth
are doomed to resign life long before their posterity comes into-
existence ; yet with a providence unequalled among the larger
quadrupeds they anticipate their every want with as much care
as if they were permitted to nurse and fondle them during the
earlier stages. Nor is this an easy task, when we consider the
disadvantages which confront them at every point. Throughout
their own larval and pupal experience they could have no possible
conceptions of any future descendants, and how they are able to-
recall, on behalf of their unborn young ones, the place, or kind of
plant whereon they themselves were cradled and fed, is a problem
entirely beyond our human comprehension. Yet this duty is
annually performed with all but infallible precision — every effort
being put forth to discover the proper food in as safe and com-
fortable a position as possible.

In their adult stages, the butterfly and moth are wholly

138 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

dependent on the sweet nectar imbibed from flowers, and,
curiously enough, each parent seems fully aware that this ambrosial
aliment would be absolutely fatal to her little ones. She knows
that they could neither drink nor assimilate it to their physical
condition. From this source, however, her own, simple wants are
easily and amply supplied, and she is, therefore, able to devote
much spare time to the discharge of her important duties. With
an unerring discrimination, the eggs are laid and securely gummed
to the proper substance. The faithful mother, as if now aware
that her life work has been duly accomplished, resigns herself
to the inevitable, and, in many cases, dies even before her ova
are hatched.

In obedience to the same inherent impulse, the Dor Beetle
(Geotrupes stercorarius) may be frequently seen during the warm
Autumn evenings flying about in booming circles as if she were
on the outlook for prey. This, however, is not her primary
object, but discovering a recent patch of cow dung, she suddenly
drops and commences to dig through the damp mass. This done,
the work is continued in a short burrow into the underlying soil.
To the farther end a single pellet is rolled, in which she has
previously deposited an egg, and away she goes again to repeat
the operation according as opportunities may occur until her
ovary becomes exhausted and her object accomplished. When,
in due course, the grub comes out, it finds itself mysteriously
environed with a food in every way suited to its peculiar tastes.
Very soon it grows, arid becoming strong enough to crawl to the
entrance, it gets, in the overlying excrement, all that is required
until it passes through the usual transformations when it, too, if
a female, sets off to construct similar nurseries for succeeding
generations.

The nests of the Common Hill Ant (Formica rufa) are to be
found in every fir wood in Nairnshire, and, considering the size of
the builders, are sometimes astonishingly large. To the outward
appearance they are carelessly formed heaps of pine leaves, tiny

INSECT LIFE. 139-

twigs, short straws, or, in fact, any portable material the ants
may come across in their journeys abroad. The interior, however,
is so wonderfully and conveniently arranged for the requirements
of their domestic necessities that we must allow this species
considerably more than ordinary insect reasoning powers. The
common hill is entirely honeycombed with chambers, cells, and
passages, but the occupants appear to be as familiar with their
endless apartments as we are with the rooms in our own homes,
In their various movements throughout this intricate labyrinth,,
they depend, to a large extent, upon a highly developed sense of
smell ; and are able, in the darkest recesses, to recognise former
members of their own community, even although these may
have been absent for days or weeks on end.

In all their relations, ants are remarkable for their keen
intelligence and curious habits. To maintain the normal strength
of the community, the queens or mother ants are almost ex-
clusively engaged through life in laying eggs all over the common
habitation, but pay no further attention to them. Notwithstand-
ing they are not left heedless. The workers at once pick up
these precious embryos — concealing and guarding them with the
utmost viligance. Not only do they lick and moisten them with
their tongues, but, that they may have as equable a temperature
as possible, they convey them from storey to storey according to-
the state of the weather. On the birth of the baby grubs, the
nurses are more than usually busy. Much time is now spent in
watching and feeding them with half digested food disgorged
right down their tiny throats. They grow rapidly, and in due
time become full fed. Like caterpillars they spin small silken
cocoons in which they go off in a kind of sleep, preparatory to
the final change. While in this condition they are carefully
shifted from time to time so as to favour a healthy development
by a judicious exposure to a warmer or cooler atmosphere.

When the period arrives for these metabolian organisms to
burst their investing wrappers the attendant nurses become

140 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

greatly excited and help in the operation by every possible means
in their power. For a few days afterwards the young strangers
are welcomed, fed and initiated into all the mysteries of the republic,
but, as soon as they are able to share in the general responsibilities,
they are left to cater for themselves and work Jor the common
good. During the Summer months they make long journeys
from the nest, following for the most part, the well beaten tracks
which radiate in all directions through moss, heather and grass.
Owing to the building materials used, the ant hill is so loose and
unstable that it proves a difficult task for the inquiring student to
open up the various cells so as to allow the internal economy to be
examined with any degree of satisfaction.

On removing the outer covering, we can scarcely help noticing
the small white cocoons, commonly denominated " eggs." They
may probably be found clustered here and there all over the
interior; but no sooner do the inmates come to realise the situation
than they manifest the greatest concern, and run about among the
crumbling ruins in order to rescue their dearest treasures from
danger and ascertain the extent of the injury done. In a twinkling
every pupa is picked up and carefully located away among the
secret recesses far beyond the spectator's ken. If possible they
all join in an attack upon the enemy by squirting over him a
miniature shower of very pungent formic acid. The effects are
so painful to the eyes, or offensive in the nostrils that the work
of demolition is often greatly hindered if not even altogether
abandoned.

The Wasp (Vespa vulgaris vel arborea), the hive bee, as well as
the common bombus, all treat their young much in the same
kindly way. In the early Spring the queen wasp — the only
survivor of last year's colony — issuing from her Winter quarters,
sets herself at no small labour to lay the foundation of a new
community. Having selected a fitting locality either under the
ground or on the branch of a tree, according to her species, she
prepares a small " pot " containing four or five inverted cells, in

INSECT LIFE. 141

each of which she deposits a single egg. As soon as the dumpy
larvae are hatched the poor mother finds that she has very little
time to spare. Her young requires unremitting attention, while
the house has to be extended for their future accommodation. No
sooner does she return from a foraging expedition than they all
protrude their heads in a solicitous attitude, like so many hungry
nestlings, for their expected allowance ; after which they quietly
contract into their respective cells. On arriving at maturity
they begin life as workers by undertaking the careful upbringing
of succeeding brothers and sisters, while the mother wasp is
almost entirely relieved of out-door labours and thereby enabled
to attend more particularly to her primary business of egg
laying.

Nor are the hive bees (Apis melifica), less attentive to their
little ones. After swarming, their first care is to fill the new home
with comb, as cradles for succeeding generations, as well as
receptacles for honey and bee bread. In each cell the queen bee
deposits an egg, which, in due course, produces a larva, but neither
she nor any of the drones pay the least attention to them after-
wards. The nursing falls exclusively upon the neuters which, in
addition to collecting all the honey, devote a great part of their
domestic life to this arduous duty.

The gardener's pest, popularly known as the Earwig
(Forficula auricularia), so needlessly shunned by every rank and
class, is a very remarkable creature. As a rule, we observed, that
the insect mother, having laid her eggs, falls a prey to an early
dissolution, and is thus precluded from being able to take an
individual interest in the welfare of her future offspring. The
Earwig, however, forms an interesting exception. Having selected
a damp cranny, mayhap, under a stone, though preferably beneath
some loose bark, she hides her treasures as far as possible from
the faintest sunbeam. Should the situation be casually exposed,
or become too dry, the attentive mother carefully removes them
to a more congenial recess where she continues to bestow on them

142 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the same anxious solicitude— often for days sitting on her clutch
like a brooding hen. Curiously enough, the young ones immedia-
tely after birth become considerably larger than the eggs from
which they were hatched, but excepting in size, the larvae are
scarcely distinguishable, to an ordinary eye, from the perfect
insect. Chicken like, they show a tendency to take refuge under
their mother, and begin to feed in her company upon both animal
and vegetable matter, though they seem to have a preference for
the latter. Should any member within the family circle become
ill and die, the survivors gather round, and, perhaps for sanitary
considerations, eat up the poor remains. Even their affectionate
parent does not escape their cannibalistic propensities ; for when
she too, passes off this mortal scene, they do not hesitate to un-
gratefully repay her watchful care over them during their infancy
by immediately devouring her dead body without the least scruple
or respect !

Not less wonderful is the parental love of the Entomophagae,
or Ichneumon Flies, whose young subsist as parasites upon the
living bodies of other insects. They form a very large family,
and, in their general economy, are so alert that few of the
lepidopterous larvae, even though they feed in concealment, are
quite secure from their relentless attacks. In her search for an
unfortunate caterpiller, the ichneumon mother faces the greatest
dangers, and despite every defensive stratagem, persists until she
has buried, with her long ovipositor one after another, the
requisite number of eggs in her poor victim. By and bye, the
tiny grubs are hatched beneath the skin, and begin to prey
voraciously upon the fatty tissues from which the succeeding
butterfly would have been evolved. So exactly, in each particular
instance, does she estimate the physical condition, that the food
supply never falls short of the demand. Just in proportion aa
the fat is formed and used up do the young ichneumons thrive
and grow, while to the outward appearance, the wretched cater-
pillar looks plump and strong, though in reality it is a veritable

INSECT LIFE. H3

skeleton. The internal feeders, as if fully aware of the
fatal consequences to themselves, carefully avoid the vital
organs, and all seems to go well until the period when the cater-
pillar itself prepares to change into the pupal state for the coming
Winter. As the parasites by this time are completely fed, and no
longer require their peculiar hospitality, they burst through the
skin, leaving their generous entertainer a miserable spectacle of
wreck and ruin. With one impulse they all begin to spin their
yellow silken cocoons, sometimes upon, but always near, the
shrivelled remains, and in due course come forth the same
implacable corsairs as their roving ancestors of bygone genera-
tions.

To mankind, the benefits accruing by these little destroyers
can scarcely be overestimated. They act most effectively in
reducing the swarms of injurious insects which prey upon our
field and garden crops. One good example, among many others,
is the small Microgaster glomeratus, without whose aid it is
doubtful if we could raise a single cabbage. But so successfully
does it hunt up, and impregnate the larvae of the large White
Butterfly that it seems strange that even one specimen should be
left to reach the adult stage and lay eggs at all.

For some two years, the Common May Fly (Ephemera vulgata),
through the foresight of a devoted parent, is an inhabitant of the
pool or sluggish stream. After her eggs are hatched, the soft
banks are skilfully utilised by the larvae as safe and convenient
retreats from aquatic enemies. All along the sides they tunnel
numerous short burrows, usually to the depth of three or four
inches ; then curving round they form a second passage which
leads back again to the water near the original entrance. Con-
cealed within these double recesses, they are not often seen,
except by those who are fond of fishing and know how and
where to search for them. In due course the young Ephemerae
prepare to change into the adult stage. Crawling out of the
liquid element, the pupal skin splits almost as soon as it reaches

144 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

the dry air, setting free the contained insect. In this state they
are known to anglers as the " Green Drakes " and fly slowly and
heavily to some near resting place, where, after an hour or two
in the warm sunshine, the skin again opens up, and the perfect
insects, or the " Grey Drakes," as they are .now called, rise
merrily on gauzy wing into the genial atmosphere to experience,
in reality, a new existence, but only for a very limited period
indeed. Strange to say, these gay and sprightly creatures are
entirely independent of food. In fact, they have no true mouths-
at all. The parts certainly are there, but in such a rudimentary
form as to be quite unfit for feeding purposes. The Ephemerae
have now only one object in life, and in the discharge thereof,
they collect, towards sunset, in dense swarms above, or near the
still water, where, for an hour or two, they reel and flit about in
happy concord, like so many living pearls in a mazy dance.
During these sportive moments the females zealously drop
their eggs into their former element, and thus, without even
seeing their young ones, provide a new race to follow the
generation just passing away. No sooner is this duty accom-
plished, than the poor mothers begin to sicken, and die in the
midnight chill on the very day on which they attained their
perfect condition.

Against the insect tribes countless enemies maintain, for daily
support, an incessant and decimating warfare, and even within their
own peculiar domains, strife and deadly feud continually rage.
As in the Animal Kingdom " Might is right," so among insects,
unless the feeble and artless were defended by some effective
means of security the whole race would be in imminent danger of
becoming extinct. The frequent occurence of protective resem-
blance among them may possibly be explained by their generally
defenceless condition, and the rate at which one generation
follows another. " Occasionally," says Mr Wallace, " the female
is found to be so entirely different from the male of her own
species as to be readily mistaken for an insect belonging to

INSECT LIFE. 145

another tribe less liable to attack than her own. This looks like
a special provision to secure her against dinger, during her slow
flight when laden with eggs, and particularly so, when her atten-
tion is wholly absorbed while in the act of depositing them on
some suitable plant." Large numbers, therefore, assume disguises,
or counterfeit habits, which prove of the highest importance for
their individual safety. That portion of the structure which is
covered by the mask presents, in many cases, a striking contrast
to the others. Not a few insects copy their natural environments
so perfectly, and imitate flowers, leaves, bark, broken twigs, or
knobby snags, that even to the most experienced eyes it becomes
almost impossible to discover their presence when at rest.

The colouring of our common white garden butterflies is so
arranged that no part of their snowy wings is exposed when
asleep. In settling on a blossom to imbibe its nectar, the upper
surface is usually more or less open, and the white shows strongly,
but then the individual is so fully on the alert that the presence
of danger is at once suspected and generally successfully avoided
by a prudent flight. These and other allied insects are very
particular in choosing their sleeping places, and may be often
observed trying one situation after another before finally settling
down for the night.

The beautiful Orange Tip (Anthocharis cardamines) is a very
scarce butterfly in Ardclach, but a single specimen would show
how admirably it is protected by the colouring on the under wing
when reposing among the foliage of the wild parsley or chervil
(Anthriscus sylvestris) — a plant it seldom, if ever, visits except
for sleep. On a dull day, or during an evening walk in the woods,
one may occasionally notice our only blue butterfly (Polyommatus
alexis) swaying securely with closed wings on some grassy
panicle. The protectively spotted undersides so exactly harmonise
with its natural environment that the untrained eye frequently
passes it by quite unobserved. This mysterious mimicry is riot
confined to our British species alone, but is adopted to an extra-

146 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ordinary extent by the defenceless insect tribes over the world,
A common local fly (Vollucella bombylans) mimics, in a very
striking manner, for an aggressive object, our ordinary Bombus
terrestris. From its general appearance, dress, and colour, the
pirated bees seem to be absolutely deceived. Otherwise, should
it venture to intrude among them in its true character as a thief
and a robber, there is little doubt but that it would promptly
have to pay for such presumption with its life. Owing to its
perfect mask, the female fly joins the society of the Bombi in
their domestic retreats, mixes freely with them, but apparently
never arouses the least suspicion among the inmates. The
Vollucella passes daily in to, and out from, the nest where her eggs
have been deposited, and successfully rears in comfort her young
ones in the usual way. What service these parasites render in
return to their generous hosts has never been discovered, but
that they are beneficial, and, perhaps, in some respects necessary,
can scarcely be doubted.

Most people have observed that insects often survive very
severe accidents, and afterwards run away, to all appearance, none
the worse. The wing sheaths (elytra) of the weevils are so-
nearly proof against ordinary foot pressure that they are seldom
injured by it. Others (Tipulae) are so endowed with a robust
vitality that they very quickly throw off the effects of terrible
wounds. Many female moths— for example the beautiful Tiger
Moth (Arctia caja) — will scarcely yield life, short of being com-
pletely crushed until they have deposited their eggs. During the
past season (1896) one of my beetles (Carabus violaceus) revived
after lying under chloroform for twenty-four hours and my single
Ferness specimen of Vanessa antiopa recovered itself though
exposed to the fumes of the same anaesthetic for eight or nine
hours. Another of the carrion beetles (Silpha thoracica), to save
itself from the attack of an enemy, has recourse to a peculiar
attitude. As the thorax is yellowish, it contrasts very strongly
with the black elytra over the abdomen. To counteract this.

INSECT LIFE. 147

prominence it has a curious habit of drawing the head and tail
together so that the upper surface when the insect lies at rest in
this position, has the appearance of a rugged pebble and so, no
doubt, deceives many a hungry insectivorous hunter. The Dor
Beetle (Geotrupes stercorarius) confides in a somewhat similar
stratagem. If touched by the hand or otherwise alarmed it
immediately rolls over and stretches out its legs in the attitude of
death, and remains in this condition until the danger, supposed
or real, has passed away. In this way it tries to deceive the
rooks which are said to prey only on the living body.

Among the caterpillars which produce Lepidopterous Moths,
there is a large and important group known to science as the
Geometrae. Many of these when digesting their food rest for
hours on the bark of the plant on which they have been feeding.
Clinging for support by their posterior legs only, the body is
protruded at an angle of various degrees, and in this position
looks so exactly like a tiny snag, that personally, I have fre-
quently been misled by taking caterpillars for twigs, and twigs
for caterpillars. The colour, too, helps greatly in perfecting the
•artifice. The little creature is so conformed to its natural environ-
ment, that birds and other insectivorae must thereby be often
cheated out of many a dainty morsel, which otherwise would
certainly fall to their share.

Not a few insects depend for safety on the offensive effluvia
arising from their bodies. These smells, however, vary both in
kind and degree. As a convenient proof of this let any one
<jatch a common whirlgig (Gyrinus natator) as it races on the
surface of some mossy pool, and handle it for a little. Very
soon the skin becomes so strongly impregnated with a dis-
agreeable rancid odour that it will require considerable trouble
to completely remove it, and leave the hand again pure and
sweet as before.

Perhaps, among all our local Neuroptera, there is not a more
beautiful insect than the Lace Fly (Chrysopa vulgaris.) Coming

148 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

out only when the day light begins to fade, it may be noticed
floating slowly about with an apparently aimless flight in the still
air. The body is leaf green, while each burnished eye looks very
much as if it were a brilliant combination of tiny rubies and
emeralds. The gauzy wings are ample and glossed all over with
ever changing shades of lovely green or delicate pink, according
to the angle at which the light falls on them. Such an attractive
creature would certainly become an easy prey to its many natural
enemies were it not protected by a peculiarly disagreeable smell
which taints the fingers and renders it very unpalatable to all
save the grossest animal tastes.

The large black ground beetles which may frequently be found
under stones, or fallen trees, all belong to the Carabidae Family.
Popularly they are avoided as ugly ill-omened creatures, but to
any one making a careful and unprejudiced examination, they
are seen to be rather handsome in physical structure, as well as-
active and elegant in all their movements. As the wings, which
normally lie folded under the elytra, are often either entirely
wanting or present only in a very rudimentary state, the owners-
are incapable of flight, and so, to a considerable extent, are at the
mercy of their keen predatory foes. To compensate them for
this absent means of defence, these beetles, when alarmed, have a
rather disagreeable habit of ejecting from their mouths, on their
assailants, a dark fetid saliva, which powerfully defiles the human
skin and renders them most unpalatable prey to a great majority
of insect hunters.

Among the insects which are able in a high degree to take care
of themselves as well as their property from the attacks of power-
ful enemies, are the ordinary bees and wasps. For their size,
they are entitled to take rank as " the bravest of the brave."
Not only are they armed with a formidable weapon of offence, but
endowed with the will to use it. The fiercest animals, from dire
experience exhibit marked signs of unusual anxiety, the moment
they find themselves within sound of either the one or the other.

INSECT LIFE. 149

To the hum of the bee, as it flits from flower to flower in search
of sweet nectar, we listen with delight, but when its cousin the
wasp takes a fancy solely from curiosity to study our personal
appearance, or even explore good naturedly, the arrangements of
our sitting room, we immediately feel rather apprehensive, and
usually seek safety by a prudent retreat. The least irritation,
moreover, either real or fancied on these occasions, is quite
sufficient to rouse its fiery passions, and, heedless of all con-
sequences, it does not hesitate to charge and sting the lord of
creation himself. Nor is such a tiny enemy to be lightly despised.
To a few persons the pain which it is able to inflict is insignificant,
but most people suffer more or less severely ; and instances are
not wanting in which the virus has proved fatal both to man and
beast. The Bible student will remember that, under Providence,
the hornet (Vespa crabra) was sent out among the ancient
Canaanites, in the Israeli tish interest, and effectually subdued
the scattered remnant who sought safety among the mountains
and rocky fastnesses over the Promised Land.

Although, during the Summer months insects are to be heard
continually humming, buzzing, or chirping by meadow, stream,
or wood, yet in the true sense, they have absolutely no vocal
powers whatsoever. The sound is entirely due to the action of
some external organs such as wing or limb. Let these be re-
moved, and with one exception (Death's Head) the insect becomes
forever silent.

When at home, and engaged in the discharge of its domestic
duties, the hive bee produces a low pleasing drone of contentment.
Should the ear be held near to the portal entrance, after night-
fall, this humming sound may be heard in full chorus, as the
assembled inmates move about among the combs after the day's
work ; but whenever a smart tap is applied to the flight-board an
angry response is at once returned. A short pause ensues.
Scouts are immediately dispatched to reconnoitre ; and the
listener would do well to remember the old saying slightly

150 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

altered — that he who taps and runs awa}', may come to tap
another day. But in general they are so engrossed, each in its
special sphere, that the community seldom attempts to molest
any one unless it has been previously interfered with.

Every bee master is well acquainted with the royal premonitory
" quacking " sound set up by the queen a day or two before
swarming. This shrill petulant note is always distinctly heard
above the general hum in the hive. In due course, the " casting "
bees, accompanied by the leader, leave the old home and proceed
to form a new colony. Henceforward, during that season her
Majesty ceases to proclaim her regal state, and settles down to
discharge those all important maternal duties which now devolve
upon her as head of the commonwealth.

The Death's Head Moth (Acherontia atropos) has long been
known to produce an alarm note, which, curiously enough, it was
also able to do while in the pupal stage. Generally, it is a mute
insect, but when gently handled, or placed in confinement, it
gives out a clear plaintive noise someVhat resembling the low
squeaking of a mouse. Hitherto, no one has been successful in
discovering the true cause. Scarcely less striking is the image of
a human skull which is clearly depicted on the thorax. To the
modern Entomologist, these peculiar characteristics are simply
interesting from a scientific point of view, but in a superstitious
age they caused the insect to be regarded with universal terror,
and always acknowledged as a sure " harbinger of famine,
disease, and death " in the district where it occurred.

The common female Gnat (Culex pipiens) is a decidedly un-
welcome companion to discover in the bedroom, when one has
just retired to rest, on a warm Summer night. After once
tasting living blood, she develops that familiar " piping " sound
which, most people have learned to their cost, is only indicative
of an ardent desire to again drink at the physical "river of life."
The deeper notes are produced by the rapid vibration of the
wings but the higher tones are due to minute membranes of the

INSECT LIFE. 151

thoracic entrances of the air-tubes. In proportion as the tem-
perature rises, the keener does her appetite become, while both
the sound and the power of flight are correspondingly increased.
From painful experience, the horse, the ox, as well as other
ruminant animals, at once recognise the dull trumpeting of the
Gad Fly (Tabanus bovinus) and seek safety, if at all possible, by
an immediate retreat. The Blue Bottle, or Meat Fly (Calliphora
erythrocephala) is a peculiarly bold and noisy insect. It enters
a room, in full confidence, with that loud buzzing note so well
known to every one. The female especially, seems to delight in
showing off her wing powers, but, on the first opportunity, will
alight on a piece of cold meat, suck the juices and deposit her
eggs or " fly blows." From these, in a short time, will issue
those white dumpy maggots whose sole business is to eat up the
flesh and thereafter develop into perfect insects. Although in
this respect the Meat Fly is always reckoned a household pest,
yet if she could be induced to confine her attentions to refuse
and putrid matter outside, her services would be of the greatest
value in helping to purify and sweeten the tainted atmosphere.

CHAPTER VI.

THE PLACE NAMES OF ARDCLACH.

" It has beeji truly asserted by the Botanist," says the learned
Mr Taylor, " that the wild flowers of a district among which he
delights to revel have survived the conquest of empires, and even
the devastating forces of nature herself which are fatal to almost
everything else. Invading hosts may reduce a nation to bondage
and completely destroy the crops on which they depend for
subsistence, but the flora of the soil, as well as the local names of
mountain, stream, or lowly home-stead, defy his utmost efforts to
disturb. Seldom is a people completely exterminated. The
proud conqueror leaves ' of the poor of the land ' to till the glebe
anew, and these enslaved outcasts, though they may hand down
no memory of the splendid deeds performed by their country's
heroes, yet retain a most tenacious recollection of the names of
villages and fields which their own ignoble ancestors occupied,
and near which their fathers were interred — and thus, as our
Celtic ancestors, in the ages long gone by have left no written
record, our knowledge of them would be a complete blank, were
it not that the places where they sojourned still bear traces
sufficient to enable us to discover the outlines of their history.
The hills, the valleys, and the rivers are, in fact, the only writing

PLACE NAMES. 153

tablets on which our unlettered forefathers have indelibly
inscribed much of their social condition." And so, to this day,
their names stand up before us as the monumental inscriptions of
the rude generations, long since passed away. Usually, they
consist of the most primitive words, and form the earliest trust-
worthy records of the district to which they refer. From not a
few of the ancient Place Names in our own parish, we are able,
pretty correctly, to guess the amount of arable and pasture land,
the state of agriculture, and even the density of the population,
which, as calculated from these data, is estimated to have been
very small and scantily distributed over the county.

Although Gaelic is now very littls spoken in Nairnshire, yet
some four-fifths of the natives may be set down as purely Celtic.
With few exceptions, every hill, stream, and cosy farm-stead,
bears to have received its distinctive appellation when the
ancient tongue was the common medium of intercourse all over
the land. To the mental perception of our early forefathers each
name was clearly descriptive of the particular object indicated,
but in our day the succinct record conveys no better signification
to the majority than if it were uttered in Chinese or ancient
Sanscrit. Notwithstanding, we often manifest an innate curiosity
to find out the original import, in order that we may muse over
any artificial modifications brought about by an ever advancing
civilisation.

The pleasure to be obtained from this pursuit is greatly circum-
scribed by ignorance of a language which would not only reveal
the true meaning of most topographical names, but even supply
a valuable key to unlock the secrets of many others occurring in
other parts of the world. Not a few local words, such as cairn,
loch, glen, and strath, have become almost part of the English
language, and the addition to this stock would not be very
cumbersome to enable most of us to view a variety of landscapes
with a clearer intelligence which would render the memory of
them more interesting and permanent. As in the Vegetable

154 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Kingdom, the privileged eye of the botanist detects the choicest
flowers even in profusion on the waste moorland or the brown
hill side, so also in this new and varied department of Place
Names, the student of Philology, aided by the Gaelic, finds a rich
and pathetic poetry as warm in feeling and true to Nature as any-
thing that Shakspeare or Milton ever sang.

These proper nouns are, in no case, mere empty sounds. It is
clear that the chief reason for conferring a name in any particular
instance, would be some outstanding peculiarity of position, size,
shape or colour. Laying hold of some general characteristic, the
natives would try to describe it as exactly and concisely as
possible, in order to impress the mind with the object as a whole.
The root, Ard, meaning high, occurs pretty frequently over the
land, and is always intended to contrast one elevated part in
relation to another in the lower reaches near by.

Anything large or extended is usually described by the qualifying
term, " mor," signifying big, as in Lynemore, the Broad Flat ;
Achamore, the Wide Grazing Field ; Craigiemore, the Large Rock.
This termination, as well as its relative, " beg," little, is often
found in Place Names. The two great parish hollows are referred
to by "lag," as the Lakeri and Logie, each of which shows a
peculiar depression in the general surface. With respect to colour,
the early inhabitants thought that black and grey, yellow and red
presented the most striking distinctions, and accordingly a dark
mossy lakelet was usually known to the shepherds of old as,
Lochdhu, the Black Loch. Dalbuie, or the Yellow Haugh, by the
riverside in the Streens, has once again run wild and resumed its
original Summer dress, displaying a profusion of buttercups and
yellow bedstraws as in the early centuries before the virgin soil
was disturbed by the plough. The Altdearg, or Red Burn, as well
as its congener, the Altban or White Rill, derive their names, each
from the prevailing tint of its respective waters. Within a mile,
the Cairnglass, or Grey Heap, was erected, in the early centuries,
uo doubt, to honour and protect the mortal remains of some local

PLACE NAMES. 155

patriot whose deeds of prowess the careless historian has neglected
to record for the admiration of succeeding generations. Although
in bygone days the oaks must have been even common, and often
of large size, as evidenced by the giant trunks still to be found
entombed beneath the superincumbent mosses, yet curiously
enough, there does not appear to be any trace of this tree among
the Ardclach Place Names, except Daldarach, which occurs in the
Kegister of Moray and is supposed to refer to Daltra.

That the fairy folk were greatly honoured though duly feared
in the parish, is clearly shown by the two famous strongholds still
pointed out : the Shean Hillock and the Tullasidh, which by the
evolutionary process of language becomes, in modern times, Dulsie.
During the long Winter evenings, many a weird and w onderf ul
story was earnestly related in credulous ears, regarding the doings
and sayings of these aerial creatures, as well as the pomp and
charming magnificence which obtained within their strange sub-
terranean abodes.

The words employed to describe the stretches of low-lying land
are not very numerous. The term "glen," as in Glenferness, is
in general use over the Highlands, and is applied to almost any
kind of narrow mountain valley. The Gaelic, "dail," a near
relative of the English form, dale, means simply a meadow or
flattened area at the bottom of a hill, and, in many cases, near
water, as it appears in Daltra and Dalbuie along the river margin.
It may be observed that this word is employed in Place Names
with a difference which distinctly indicates a Gaelic or Saxon
origin. In localities, such as Ardclach, where the latter element
was long absent, the "dal" is always found prefixed, as in the
names already mentioned. On the other hand its position as a
postfix, as in Clydesdale and Tweeddale marks a Scandinavian or
Saxon derivation.

Considering the undulating character of the parish, there are
few lochs — Loch-an-Tutach, Belivat and Boath being the chief, As
every one knows the name loch is spelt in three different ways

156 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

within the United Kingdon — England, Scotland and Ireland
having each a form peculiar to itself. Loch is simply a modifica-
tion of "lag," which signifies a depression in elevated land, but
in this case, always filled with water. The word is in common
use and seldom found in any obscure spelling.

Leaving out of count the Lowland herdsmen who came up to
the district from year to year, in bygone ages, and erected their
temporary Summer huts on the various pasture runs, the resident
population, as indicated by the Place Names, must have been very
sparse, indeed. The name, Shenval — the Old Town — would imply
that the rude hamlet which formerly stood near Fleenasmore may
have existed some time previous to the other settled dwellings,,
and may possibly be the oldest inhabited spot in the parish. The
root word, "Bal," enters into the composition of a great many
homestead names, such as, Balmoral, Majestic Town ; Balmore, the
Big Town ; Balinriach, (New Inn), Heather Town ; Balintore, the
Home of the Dewar or Church Officer, and so on.

ACHAGOUR — Achagobhar, the Field, or Pasture of the Goats.
(Ach, a field, and Gobhar, a goat ; akin to the Latin, ager and
caper.) Goats are mentioned in history as domestic animals at
a very early period. From the days of the patriarchs downwards,
and until within a century or two ago, they were kept in greater
numbers than they now are, and contributed not a little to the
wealth and daily support of the rural inhabitants in this country.
They are among the best rock climbers, and adapt themselves
with great facility to every condition of climate and pasture. In
Ardclach, a considerable area was appointed to them in particular.
During the superstitious ages, our forefathers pictured the goat,
not only as the agent by which witches rode through the air to
their midnight revels, but also as the form in which His Sable
Majesty occasionally presented himself to his deluded votaries.

ACHAMORE — Ach a m6r, the Big Field or Pasture Run.

ACHANDAR — Ach nan tarbh, the Field of the Stags. (Akin to the
Latin, taurus, a bull.) Formerly a mooral croft, but now partly

PLACE NAMES. 157

included in the pasture of Balinriach or the New Inn. Long
ago, when this district was largely covered with forest on the
South-East of the Findhorn, it was noticed that the red stags, in
considerable numbers, were annually in the habit of leaving their
Alpine retreats during the rutting season for this woodland glade.
Here, in fierce and prolonged combats, they settled their respective
amorous jealousies, and thereafter returned, in pride and self-
sufficiency, to discharge the duties of life amid their natural
environments on the higher grounds.

ACHAVELGIN — Ach a mheallagan, the Pasture Run of the Bald
Height. Mayhap, the name is derived from, Ach a bhealachan,
the Flat of the Little Pass, and if so, it must refer to the narrow
glenlet which runs from here down to the Laken. This depres-
sion was used from time immemorial as an easy communication
between the upper and lower sections of the parish.

ACHAVRATE— Ach a bhradhaid, the Field of the Sedges. These
plants grow mostly along the margins of shallow lochs and the
muddy parts of marshy land. Few cattle, from choice, care to
browse on any of the genus. Occasionally the poor cottar twisted
them into a serviceable rope for temporary use, but the Bottle
Sedge (Carex ampullacea), was largely used over the Highlands in
the manufacture of a rude kind of horse collar called a " Brecham."

ACHNABEOCHAN — Ach nam beathaicheam (beochan), the Field
or Pasture Run of the Cattle. The district has always been noted
for a rich moorland herbage. Low and well sheltered, it is con-
sidered the best for Highland cattle on the Glenferness estate.
Without the pasture the arable portion of the farm would be of
little value.

ACHNATONE — Ach na toin, the Posterior Field, i.e., at the
Backside (of the moor.) In the same way, Finisterre in Spain.

AIRDRIE— Ard ruith, the High Run of Pasture. Ard, high ;
Aird, height ; akin to Latin Arduus, and Sanscrit Radh, to raise,

AITNOCH — Aitionnach or Aitneachain, the Place or Area
abounding in Juniper. So plentiful did the shrub once grow

158 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

here, that an old man informed me that he remembered two
bachelor brothers who spent a long life in a small black hut not
far from the present farm house. They were said never to have
burnt any other kind of fuel. One long Winter evening, as
Donald and Sandy sat together enjoying, in silence, the warm
glow of their fire, a bright thought came across the mind of the
younger that their worldly comfort would be greatly increased if
they could only arrange to keep a cow. After cautiously detail-
ing the particulars of this happy idea for his brother's approval,
the reply he received was as prompt as it was decisive — " No, no,
Sandy," said he, " where there is a 300 there must be a wife, and
where there's a wife there's sure to be strife ; no, no, my man,
she'll no hear o' ye getting a coo." Gradually a curious change
appears to have taken place. The Ardclach holding is in reality
Little Aitnoch, to distinguish it from the Meikle Aitnoch in the
neighbouring parish of Edinkillie, although the former is now
more than double the size of the latter from the incorporation at
various times of the surrounding crofts of Balacroagh, Balaireish,
Eearple and Sgeodag.

ARDCLACH — Ard chlach, the Height of Stones. Chlach, is the
genitive plural of Clach, a stone ; akin to the Latin arduus and
calculus. This name is quite in accordance with the excessive
number of small stones which are found mixed up with the soil
in all parts. The average elevation of the parish may be about
650 feet. The name appears to have first been applied to the
hill near where the Church stands, and afterwards was extended
to the entire ecclesiastical parish.

ALT AN FUARAN BRAIN — The Burn of the White or Clear
Well.

ALT BADAN — The Burn dotted with clumps of Trees (Birch or
Alder).

ALT DEARG— The Red Burn. The name was conferred from
the water being more or less tinted with the salts of iron found
in the soil surrounding the upper springs.

PLACE NAMES. 159

ALT LUIDH — Alt laogh, the Burn of the Calves or Fawns ; akin
to the Irish laogh, Welsh ilo, and Cornish loch. During the
lambing season the ewes on the Lynemore pasture even at the
present day frequently resort to this kindly hollow before giving
birth to their young.

ALT N AIRIDH — The Burn of the Shieling. In bygone days,
the shady banks of this romantic stream were annually chosen as
the site of a Summer shieling, in connexion with a mode of life
now almost entirely forgotten. This temporary abode was a very
rude structure, erected on the hill pastures by the farmers in the
lower districts, and always composed of the simplest and readiest
materials. Generally speaking, the natives were not very parti-
cular, even in Winter, as to the comfort of the dwelling they
occupied for the greater part of the year, but if the Bothain
Airidh, as it was called, fairly defended the family against wind
and rain, it was considered quite sufficient. When situated far
away among the upland glens, it became necessary for every
member of the household, after planting the potatoes and casting
the peats, to remove thither. On these occasions they drove up
the remainder of their flocks and herds, with as much of daily
store as they considered necessary till the time of their return at
the end of the season. During the day the men spent their time
among the cattle on the hill side, while the women were fully
employed in milking the cows and feeding the calves brought
down to the Buaile in the vicinity of the Bothain, as well as in
the preparation and storage of the dairy produce. Amid these
scenes, lads and lasses passed some of their happiest days, and
here, too, " many a Celtic beauty trimmed her snood and trilled
a song to please her swain," To not a few of the exciting ex-
periences at these hill shielings are we able to trace the original
of some of the finest pastoral songs and old-world traditions.
Many of them occupy a foremost place in a very pleasing
literature, descriptive of the Celtic social condition at a period
not so far removed from the present time.

160 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

BALFREISH — The Town of the Thicket. Bal, or Baile was
originally a Place or a Home ; Phris, the Genitive of Preas, a
shrub.

BALINRIACH — Baile an fh'raoch, the Town of the Heather ;
now generally known as the New Inn.

BALINTORE — Baile an deoradh, the Home of the Dewar. In
the ancient Celtic Church this was an officer, corresponding
somewhat to the modern beadle. His duty was to wait on the
priest and discharge the usual servile functions in connexion with
the local chapel. To his care were entrusted such sacred articles
as the bell, the priest's official staff, and, perhaps, a portion of the
Holy Scriptures. Here then we doubtless have the former abode
of the hereditary church officer attached to one or both of the
early places of worship which stood as circumstances required
near Glenferness or on the Hill of the Doune.

BALMAKIVER — Bal Mac Ivor, the Town of the man named Mac
Ivor. Local tradition affirms that after the marriage in 1510 of
Sir John Campbell, third son of the second Duke of Argyle, to
Muriel, daughter and heiress of John Calder of Calder as the
parish was then called, a retainer named Ivor came from Inverary
to Cawdor in the train of this gentleman. By and bye, in recog-
nition of faithful service, his son, the young Mac Ivor became
tenant of this place and resided in it as long as he lived. For
several generations his descendants continued to occupy holdings
in Highland Boath, and at the time (1645) of the battle of
Auldearn one of these was taxman of Knockaneorn. Having
joined the forces of General Hurry against Montrose, on the
defeat of the Covenanting party, he fled' across the moors towards
Ardclach. An elated dragoon, however, observed him and
immediately gave chase. In the circumstances the chances
appeared to -be all in favour of the horseman. But just as
Macivor was about to fall into the hands of his pursuer, a bright
idea flashed into his mind. The canny Celt being well acquainted
with his native moorlands deliberately ran over the green surface

PLACE NAMES. 161

of a spacious "well ee " which chanced to lie in his way. To the
stranger's eye the spot seemed firm enough, though in reality it
was a most treacherous quagmire and only able to sustain a light
weight. The rider thoughtlessly followed, but he and his horse
sank to their necks among the slimy mire. It was the unexpected
that had happened, and the pursuer was now entirely at the
mercy of the pursued. Macivor at once threw himself upon his
enemy and killed him in the bog. With great difficulty he saved
the poor horse and led him home in high spirits to Highland
Boath. A military steed was ill fitted for a crofter's work, so
he afterwards took him to the Castle and generously presented
him to his proprietor, the Thane of Cawdor. Tidings of this
misfortune having reached the ears of Montrose, a search party
was immediately organised and despatched to the uplands with
strict orders to find the young Macivor and bring him to Aul-
dearn, alive or dead. The whole district was carefully scoured,
but baffled in all their efforts to discover his hiding place, the
heartless troopers determined in some way to avenge the loss of
their late comrade. Therefore, entering the dwelling of a poor
cottar at Balmakiver, they seized <an old man of some eighty
years, and, under the pretext that he sympathised with the
Covenanting side, forthwith hanged him from the end of the
rooftree which, old fashioned-wise, protruded from the gable of
his own house.

BALMORE — Bal mor, the Big Town ; relatively, in former times
to the other small holdings in the neighbourhood.

BALNAGLACK— Bal na glaic, the Town of the Gully.

BALNAULT— Bal nuilt, the Town of the Burn — Burnton.

BALNOUGHT— Bal a nuchd, the Town of the Breast (of the
hill.)

BALVILLE— Bal a bile, the Place of the Large Venerated Tree.
Formerly this was an untilled spot, containing some three acres,
and covered with a natural growth of rowan, birch, alder, and
willow. It was known as " The Bile," from a stately mountain

162 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ash which stood in the centre. The " Bile* Well " still continues-
to pour forth an excellent supply of water as in bygone days. It
was greatly venerated for its wonderful curative virtues. The
custom was to visit the spring alone, if possible, but, in any case,
to preserve a strict silence in both going and returning. The
devotee was required to repeat the Creed with great reverence
while the water was being lifted, and thereafter to tie a linen rag
to the tree beside the well. During the homeward journey
the vessel which held the water had on no account to be
allowed to touch the ground otherwise all the charm was certainly
lost.

BANGKOK — Bean a charr, the Hill of the Large Mossy Flat.
This evidently refers to the extensive tract of peaty formation
on the higher elevation and locally called the Blar mor or Big
Moss. In a deed of 1236 Alexander II. granted this place to
Gilbert Hostiarius and spelt the name, Banchory. Four years
later it occurs in a Cawdor charter as Bendachris.

THE BART — Bard or Braghad, an Enclosure on the Hill. This
word is still in common use meaning a straw collar, such as was
formerly used for a Highland garron. Hence, when this holding
was originally reclaimed from the moor and fenced in, it is said
to have had an oval form, and appeared by contrast with the
brown heather to resemble this old fashioned article.

BATTANFARN — Badan Fearn, the Thicket of Alders. Badan is
the diminutive of Bad, a Grove, and was often applied to a home-
stead near a clump of trees. In the past, the better class of
houses generally had a screen of trees to the windward — chiefly
bourtree, alder, or hazel— hence " Bad " was sometimes applied to
a dwelling. Although the alders have long since disappeared
before the plough, yet the physical formation clearly indicates
that this place formed a suitable habitat for such moisture loving
shrubs.

BATTANYONAN — Bad a neoinean, the Place of the Daisies. The
particular species, in the polite literature of the botanist, is Bellis

PLACE NAMES. 163

perennis, often found in dry mountainous parts. This is a good
example of a really common plant.

" For this small flower to Nature dear,

While moons and stars their courses run,
Twines the whole circle of the year,
Companion of the sun."

About a century ago Battanyonan was a mountain croft, but the
descendants of the moles and partridges which somehow found
their way thither at that time, have continued to thrive here to
the present day.

BELIVAT — Buaile Ichid, the Park, or Feeding Place for the
Cattle of a man named Ichid. An ancient tradition affirms that
this farm includes the old Pasture Run, once in the possession of
a priest in early times. It would appear from the extent of the
enclosure that quantity had been given for quality. Traces of
the old turf wall are still to be seen in some parts of the moor
near the loch, as also a strong spring of excellent water on the
north-eastern boundary of the farm, known to the older inhabit-
ants as Ichid's Well. The priest's house is said to have stood in
the immediate vicinity. The Castle of Belivat, which is believed
to have stood in the hollow a litlle to the north-west of the
present farm house, was destroyed by fire during a deadly feud
between the Koses and Dunbars in the year 1600 A.D. The
family is often alluded to as " The Rebel Race of Belivat." They
were as remarkable for their " hot temper " as for their constancy
in friendship and goodness of heart.

BLAIRLEY — Blar Hath, the Grey Moss. It is often supposed
that the word, Blar, was applied to a field where a battle had
been fought. This is not necessarily the case ; but as the term
originally meant an open space in a wooded country, the Blar
would likely enough be selected as a convenient spot whereon to
try the fortunes of war, and thus come to be better remembered
in the locality in connexion with the event itself than by the
common name for the place whereon the conflict had taken place.
The "liath," in this name was, no doubt, derived from the

164 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

abundance of cotton grass (Eriophorum angustifolium) which
may still be seen ornamenting the surface during the later
Summer months.

BLAIR NA TOW— Blar na daimh, the Moss of the Ox. Tradition
says that local cattle were often lost here by. sinking in the
spongy bog. A small horn, now in the Nairn museum, was found
a few years ago, at this place deeply embedded in the peaty
formation. In shape and size it resembles that produced by the
modern shorthorn breed, but it possesses an inner lining as if the
animal had been about to shed its outer covering. Perhaps this
specimen may have originally belonged to the ancient Bos
longifrons — supposed to have been the species domesticated by
the British aborigines previous to the Roman Invasion.

BOATH— Both, the Place of the Huts. "The Highland Note
Book " says, " this district was usually called " Highland Both "
to distinguish it from the Magna domus lapidea of Both which
the old Deans of Moray rejoiced in and inhabited beside their
benefice of Auldearn." In connexion with the township, we still
have the places where the little community housed their bestial
at the white and black folds.

BRAEVAIL — Braigh bhaile, the Brae Town. Brae is the Angli-
cised form of the Gaelic braigh, the upper part.

BROADSHAW — Broad Schaw or Schagh, the Extensive Wood.
From Middle English Brood, Swedish Skog, Sanskrit Sku. The
original signification of the root seems to be a covering or shelter.
It was, however, often nothing more than a " wide piece of ground,
covered with short scraggy birches " — hence Birkenshaw.

CAIRN OF ACHAGOUR — Car na Ach a Gobhar, the Rocky Hill
on the Pasture of the Goats.

CAIRNBARR — Carn barr, the Monumental Heap of Stones on
the Summit of the Mountain. The highest point stands at 862
feet above the level of tlie sea in latitude 57° 31' 24", and
longitude 30° 44' 38" west. It may have been so named from
these ancient cairns, no doubt raised in memory of the leading

PLACE NAMES. 165

military and sacerdotal chiefs during the period when the
acknowledged seat of the Royal Celtic Court was at Inverness,

CAIRN A CAILLICH — Carn a Caillich, the Hill of the Old
Woman or Nun. On the east side of the hill there is a spot,
reputed to have been, in Celtic times, the residence of a Nun or
Sister of Mercy, and hence the name.

CAIRN A CBRASGIE — Carn a Crasg, the Cairn of the Cross,
that is, at the point where the path crosses the one between
Boath and the Streens. This is a common appellation for a foot-
path across a hill from one place to another. Cognate with the
Latin Crux, a cross, G. Crashach, crosswise.

CAIRN ALT Lui — The Hill of the Calves' (Fawn's) Burn.

CAIRN DHUI — Carn dubhaich, the Black Cairn.

CAIRNGLASS — Carn glas, the Grey Heap of unhewn Stone.
The old cairn which conferred the name was removed (1870)
within recent years by the present tenant (Mr John Mann.) It
stood on a slight elevation in the immediate vicinity of a shean
hillock, or fairy knoll, about a hundred yards to the north-west
of the dwelling house. The shape was a simple conical cairn
about ten feet high, but containing some six hundred cart loads
of small round stones evidently collected from the adjoining
grounds. After the site was cleared, a few pieces of charcoal
were found among a mass of blackened ashes, but no trace of
human remains was observed. It may, therefore, have been
reared as a march cairn, or perhaps the builder intended it to
commemorate the scene of some local conflict about which history
is disappointingly silent.

CAOCHAN A BHODAICH— The Spectre's Brook. This is a small
intermittent stream in the Dulsie Wood. Close beside the county
road bridge over the same, there is a split boulder, known as the
" Clach na Uliadh," or Stone of Treasure. Underneath, the dis-
trict fairies were believed to have concealed their money, from
time immemorial, in a large golden pot. Long ago, we are told,
a farmer named Donald Maclucas was returning at a late hour

166 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

from a Grantown tryst, where he had been detained by his friend

Hugh Macgregor, over a stiff bargain about a lot of Highland

tups. On his way home he had to pass this place alone. As he

approached the spot, he was rather surprised to observe a number

of dainty little workmen busily engaged removing, the earth from

the base of the stone with their picks and spades. In physical

appearance the labourers were considerably smaller than ordinary

human beings, but seemed from their thin and time worn faces to

be well advanced in years. Notwithstanding, each was as bright,

lithe, and active as a sprightly youth of fourteen. He noticed

that they wore no bonnets, and that their glossy auburn locks fell in

luxuriant ringlets well down their little green worsted tunics. It

was a calm frosty evening about the end of December. The half

moon was struggling behind huge banks of fleecy clouds which

glided slowly across the sky, thus causing the knolls and trees on

either side of the road to cast brief, but fitful shadows athwart his

path. " It's a very unusual thing," said Donald to himself, " to

see people working at this late hour," and he paused for a few

minutes, thinking over the kindliest salutation with which to

greet them. To his introductory remark — " This is a fine night,

my friends," none of them turned their heads, or appeared to pay

the least attention. Before he could remember to add anything

further, a terrible wind suddenly rose among the trees overhead,

and bursting down upon poor Donald with great fury, swayed

him from side to side, and almost threw him to the ground.

Steadying himself with great care, he was just able to keep his

footing, but gradually perceiving the true state of matters, he

wisely adopted the better part of valour and hastened to cross the

Spectre's Brook — a boundary line over which none of the fairy

race would even dare to pass. No sooner had he set foot on the

opposite bank than the gale very sensibly decreased in violence,

although it still continued to blow, at irregular intervals, in

furious blasts around his person — thus rendering it a matter of

extreme difficulty for him, in the uncertain gloom, to keep his

PLACE NAMES. 167

feet on the proper tract. To make matters worse he had to hold
down with both hands, his good broad bonnet, which at every
gust threatened to rise clean off his head, as if by the agency of
some unseen power, into mid-air. At length, however, in a state
of great terror and exhaustion he managed to reach his own
house, and it is right to add, that, Donald, as long as he lived,
was never again to be found in the Dulsie wood at such an uncanny
hour, on his way home from a Grantown market,

CAOCHAN DOIR — Caochan tuar, the Bleaching Green Streamlet.
Here the goodwives, who had linen on the neighbouring meadow,
drew the water with which they sprinkled from time to time their
home-made webs.

CAOCHAN RUA — Caochan ruadh, the Eed Brook. This is so
named because the water is charged with the oxide of iron, much
of which is deposited along the bottom in a reddish coagulum.

CARNACH — Cam an nach, the Cairn of the Horses. Only part
of this farm is in the parish of Ardclach. The hill was justly
reputed in former times as a particularly good mooral pasture.
The neighbouring crofters used it as a commonty, to which they
drove their hardy garrons for several months, after the Spring
and Summer work was over. The ruins of the old " feal " dyke
which inclosed the area, are still to be seen in many places along
the hill side. In some parts of the Highlands, it was an ancient
custom for the farmers to drive their horses to a sacred hill on the
summit of which had been erected a great heap of stones. Here
they arranged the animals in a line, and, following the direction
of the sun, they led them in solemn procession three times round
the cairn. According to this Nature Worship, the horses were
supposed to be consecrated to the great Lord of Day. Fires were
often kindled and sacrifices offered to atone for the people them-
selves. The Priest who officiated was called Carneach. For
criminals, it was an expiatory punishment to stand for a limited
time between two contiguous Carn-fires, or to walk barefooted
thrice over their smouldering embers.

168 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

CASTLE FOLLY — Perhaps this name may be a corruption of
Fiodh Hath, the Grey Wood. There is a local tradition, however,
which states that long, long ago, a Lethen proprietor selected this
spot, and began to erect a fine residence thereon. The grounds were
carefully laid out, and the beech trees then planted^re now among
the largest and most ornamental specimens in Nairnshire. A
trifling circumstance is said to have caused the laird to change
his plans. The Lethen jester gravely assured his master that
such " a grand house behind the sun " was only " a Castle Folly,"
and local opinion duly indorsed the statement. In deference,
therefore, to the wisdom of his fool the unfinished erection was
forthwith demolished and a new mansion put up on the sunny
side of the Lethen Burn.

CHAPEL PARK — This is the modern name derived from the
ancient place of worship and burying ground formerly here, but
the native Gaels knew it as Pairc-an-t-Seipeil. Previous to the
Eeformation, Ardclach is not mentioned in the old Provincial
Eecords. Up to that time the only religious meeting houses
were two Celtic or Catholic Chapels on the east side of the
river Findhorn. Both the sites are still (1899) respected — the
one on the Hill of the Doune, and the other on the high level
near Glenferness House.

CLACH-NAN-CON— The Dog's Stone. Tradition says that this
small boulder, near Crony Hillock, was used by Fingal and his
jolly companions in their sporting expeditions in Nairnshire, as a
stake to which they tethered their celebrated hounds during the
time the party rested for lunch. The bygone generation
triumphantly pointed to the base of the stone, and asserted
that, as the mighty hunters' dogs were " Matchless for vigour
and unequalled in strength," the deep abraison all round was
easily accounted for. We now live in sceptical times, but should
a link from any of their chains chance some day to turn up -near
by, it would, no doubt, prove a powerful factor in confirming the
truth of the old story.

PLACE NAMES. 169

CLACH NA ULAIDH— The stone of Hidden Treasure. So far
as we have been able to discover, oral testimony has become
entirely silent with regard to both the period and the peculiar
circumstances from which this stone derived its name. There
can be no question, however, but that treasure was often buried
in out of the way places, either to conceal it from enemies, or
mayhap at times, to gratify the base avarice of its selfish posses-
sors. Even to this day there are many such reputed spots all
over the country. From a very remote age the peasantry
continued to cherish an inherent dread of the various localities
where such wealth was believed to have been deposited, and this
superstitious awe fully served to protect these places from a too
close scrutiny of their assumed contents. As respects the parish
Clach, there is nothing very striking either about its appearance
or size calculated to suggest any special connection with the
supernatural. It would seem, therefore, more likely that the
name may have been conferred in memory of some important
negotiation connected with the well-known " riever " incursions
from the Highland glens. Let it be supposed that one or more
herds of cattle had been " lifted " from the Laigh along the sea
board, and that the robbers were overtaken in force by the
aggrieved owners at this place in the Dulsie wood, and were
offered, and accepted, a sum of money to restore their ill-gotten
booty. What could be more natural than that the block on which
the price was laid, should afterwards be remembered in the
district as the Clach na Ulaidh or stone on which the gold
had been paid down, at the conclusion of a somewhat stormy
interview ?

CLASHGOUR— Clais gobhar, the Goat Hollow. Irish clais,
Manx clash. This long furrow-like depression in the bare moor
was a favourite resort during rough weather for both sheep and

COLINDOUN— Cul in dun, the Back of the Hill Fort. On the
north-east side of the Doune, on a projecting terrace there is an

170 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

oblong patch of uncultivated land, studded with a few old birches.
This ancient spot — some 15 by 20 yards — now surrounded by
arable ground, marks the site of an early Celtic place of worship,
and is known to the present day as the Chapel Yard. The Rev.
Donald Mitchell, minister of Ardclach, in a letter 9f 10th Decem-
ber, 1798, says: — "There is still the remains of a building on
the Hill of Dunearn, together with the appearance of a burying
ground, as also an excellent spring near the foot, still called Tober
na Sagart or the 'Priest's Well'." The church itself was a
plain erection, rough and ugly, no doubt, when compared with
modern structures for similar purposes, but yet consecrated in the
native mind by every holy feeling towards the monk and his
devoted associates. The Father himself, who was held in the
highest veneration, wore a short tunic, arid over it a coarse
woollen wrapper roped tightly round his middle. The fore part
of his head was shaved — a tonsure peculiar to the Celtic Church.
Round the sacred spot ran a dry stone wall or earthen rampart
which inclosed the burying ground, but almost every trace of
both has long since perished. The situation of the Colindown
homesteads was, no doubt, relatively behind this early ecclesiastical
edifice.

CORBIE HAUGH — The old name for Wauk Mill.

COULMONY — Cul mhonaidh, at the Back of the Moorland Hill.
The name is clearly in contradistinction to Brightmony, the
Anglicised form of Bruach mhonaidh, which is situated on the
sloping front of the moorland, relatively to the more populated
part of the county. The " back " of a hill is generally understood
as referring to the north aide, but the Gaelic, " cul," often enters
into names having a southern exposure as here. It is found as
Coull, Cults and Cool.

CRAIGROY— Creag ruadh, the Reddish Rock.

CRONY HILLOCK — In former days this spot was noted for its
annual crop of wild " Cronies " — the trivial name in Nairnshire
for the Tuberous Bitter Vetch (Orobus tuberosus.) Its reputed

PLACE NAMES. 171

virtues date from an early period, as indicated by the generic
name which signifies to strengthen the ox — and, according
to the records of ancient Celtic folk lore, the Crony is one of the
seven sources of human food. " The Highlanders," says an old
writer, "till within the last generation, had a great esteem
for the tubercles of the Bitter Vetch ; they dry and chew
them to give a better relish for their whisky. They also affirm
that they are good against most diseases of the thorax, and that
by the use of them, they are enabled to repel hunger and thirst
for a long time. In Braedalbane and Eoss-shire they sometimes
bruise and steep them in water, and make an agreeable liquor
with them called ' cairm.' They have a sweet taste, something
like the roots of liquorice, and when boiled are well flavoured and
nutritive, and in times of scarcity have served as a substitute
for bread." Shaw tells us that the Crony, in his time, was called
"Carmile." "I have often seen it," he goes on to relate,
"gathered, dried, and used on journies, especially on hills, to
appease hunger, and being pounded and infused in water, it
makes a pleasant and wholesome balsamic drink which is so used
in the Highlands." The young folks in this parish used to dig
for the roots, carry them in their pockets to school, and chew
them in the same way that old men did their tobacco. Their
tastes, however, have greatly changed within recent years and
few now know the Crony even by name.

CULUISH — Cul a ghuibhais, or Cul guith saith, at the Back of
the Fir Wood,

DALBUIE — Dail buidhe, the Yellow Haugh. It was so named,
when in a wild state, from its annually adorning the river flat
with a sheet of bright Yellow Crow Foots — chiefly Kanunculus
repens, known in Gaelic as Buigheag, or the Yellow One.

DALLAS BRACHTY— (Recently disjoined (1891) from Ardclach.)
The first part is from Dal a plain. The second is from Eas or Ess,
literally a waterfall, but by extension is sometimes applied to a rapid
stream. The third part Brachty, is from Gaelic, Braich or Brach,

172 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

malt, and often indicates a place where an illicit still had been
erected. Lachlan Shaw explains this name as Dail-uis, the Watered
Dale. Mr Macbain, Inverness, however, thinks the terminal part is
" ais," " which seems to be first for an older ' asti," and this again
equal to ' osti,' the same as the Celtic * vostis,' a tawn or ' baile '."
An old form was Dolles Brough Tigh, the Fortified Dwelling of
Sir William de Dolles. This gentleman was the proprietor of a
considerable estate here in 1 286, but all trace of his surly Strength
has long since disappeared, and the very site on which it stood is
now quite uncertain. The ruins of an old fortification near the
present village of Dallas must have been a later erection. There
is still documentary evidence to show that all the local families
of Dallas have been derived from this stock. The modern spelling
of the word has only been recently adopted in deference to the
way in which the lineal descendents of Sir William came, in later
times, to pronounce the name. The peasantry, however, still
adhere, at least colloquially, to the older and more correct form
of " Dolles," when applied to the parish.

DALNAHEGLISH— Dail na heaglais, The Haugh of the Church.
There is an almost forgotten tradition that many years before the
Information in Scotland, this picturesque ravine was frequently
resorted to as a convenient trysting place for two very affectionate
sisters then resident in this district. The elder was married to
the proprietor of Carnoch in the Streens, while the younger had
her home in the lands of Glenairnie. From the wild condition
of the country at the time, these two places were considered as
widely apart, and any intercommunication, even on horseback,
was far from easy. As a way of shortening the distance, both
ladies arranged to see each other at stated periods in the house of
a well-to-do crofter who lived in this romantic spot. By and by,
as each was of a devout turn of mind, they concluded that their
happiness would be still further enhanced if they were to begin
their social intercourse with a short religious service in con-
formity with the tenets of their own common Faith. Naturally

PLACE NAMES. 173

the neighbours were asked to join them, and as time went on the
Meetings became highly popular, and the little community began
to long for the return of their respected friends. This was
regularly continued while the ladies lived. Years afterwards
when a church was proposed to be erected, the Lethenand Fern ess
sections of the parish each strongly contended that the building
should be on their own side of the Findhorn. At length, how-
ever, a compromise was happily effected, and it was mutually
agreed to commemorate the ladies' pioneer work, and place the
new structure on this semi-sacred spot. So runs the old story.

DALNEAN — Dail nan eun, the Haugh of the Birds. This is a
beautiful hollow on the left bank of the river, scooped out by the
potency of water in ages long gone by into the shape of a huge
amphitheatre. It is securely sheltered from the chilly influences
of adverse winds, and clothed, as of yore, with tangled thickets
of wild rose, willow, birch, and hazel. This favoured spot con-
tinues to the present day a veritable Birds' Paradise. No sooner
do the first rays of the morning sun, from day to day, during the
Summer months, appear above the eastern horizon, than the
feathered choristers — blackbird and mavis, chaffinch and robin —
which have been enjoying their midnight repose under the leafy
shade, waken up and gradually burst forth into a full voiced
symphony of living song, and maintain it throughout the day
aided by a variety of minor performers, till the merry concert
finally dies away, with pleasing cadence, in the dim twilight of
advancing night.

DALTRA — Dail traith, the Early Haugh. In 1645 it appears
as Daldarrah, the Oak W ood. To the present day this holding
fully maintains the character of its former reputation. The
whole of the arable ground is pleasantly situated in a well-
sheltered depression on the left bank of the Findhorn. Here, in
the first of Spring, grass appears soon after the snow melts, and
oats are usually to be found in stook before that grain, on the
surrounding fields, is nearly ripe. In the Chartulary of Moray,

A HIGHLAND PARISH.

this place is referred to as " The Hermitage Croft," indicating the
official residence of a local recluse, or priest. But times are
changed, and this curious phase of life has long since ceased to
exist among us.

DALTLICH — Dall toll aich, the Haugh full of Holes and Pools.
Near this farm there is a fine bold arch of eighty-two feet span
thrown across the Findhorn, After finishing the mason work,
says a local tradition, the contractor and his men carefully
removed the centring, and went home to dinner, with the
intention of giving the building a few touches here and there
during the following afternoon. On returning, however, to the
scene of operation, what was their astonishment to find that not
a single vestige of their handiwork was to be seen ? The whole
structure had given way, and lay a shapeless mass at the bottom
of the dark pool below ! Every one admitted that it was a sad
calamity, discreditable alike to the good name and practical
ability of both the master and his men. There was no use,
however, crying over spilt milk. The order was immediately
given to clear out the old foundations and begin the work anew.
Some time after the completion of the present bridge, a friend
chancing to meet the contractor, said to him : — " John, you must
have been a good deal out of pocket through that unfortunate
affair of yours." " Well, not so very much as you would think,
man," replied he, "after all, I just had enough to pay expenses,
and a shilling or two to myself, forby." These were the days
in which contractors were able to live.

DROCHAID AN T' SITHEIN— The Bridge of the Fairies. These
shadowy Beings, it was said, had a particular favour, from time
immemorial, for the underfl owing stream, but after the construc-
tion of the public road through this district, they at once
arranged for a new and gorgeous residence beneath the bridge.
Here, then for many years, a gay community lived and revelled
in festive amusement and social mirth. As they were endowed
with very superior intellectual powers, the entrance to their beauti-

PLACE NAMES. 175

ful abode was so artfully constructed that in the day time it was-
totally invisible to the natural eye. One very dark night, we are
told, a belated drover from a Cawdor market, happened to pass
this way. On approaching the bridge, he was greatly astonished
and frightened beyond measure, to observe rays of the most
brilliant light beaming through the rocky foundations, at numerous
rents and cracks which the sharpest eyes in the country had never
before been able to detect. Unfortunately for science, he had
not the courage to stay and make a minute examination, but
fearing to turn his head, or even to draw his breath freely, he
strode on, reaching his home, we are glad to say, in perfect safety
by three o'clock on the following morning.

DRUMLOCHAN — Druim lochan, the Small Loch on the Sow-
backed Eidge. Formerly there was a series of dark mossy
lakelets in the vicinity.

DRUMMORE — Druim mor, the Large Sow-backed Ridge.

DULSIE — Tulla sidh, the Fairy Knowe, or Dail a sidh, the
Haugh of the Fairies. The belief in Fairies has, in every age,
formed a very charming characteristic among the rural peasantry.
The Shian Hill at Dulsie, by the river-side, was unquestionably
the recognised metropolis of the Ardclach fraternity. In the
Highlands generally the race was always referred to as a wander-
ing remnant of the less wicked of the fallen angels who were
permitted to remain on earth. It is true the Prince of Darkness
continued to exercise a theoretical dominion over them, but in
spite of his power and policy, each one claimed to do that which
was right in his own eyes. The fairies never lived alone, or in
pairs, but always in bands, tribes, or social communities. They
were a most ingenious set, and knew full well how to apply
their superior abilities to useful purposes. Every individual
combined all the necessary arts in his own person, and displayed
great expertness in handling the shuttle and awl, needle and
hammer, according to his peculiar requirements for the time
being. Without exception, they were a very merry lot, being

176 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

passionately addicted to dancing and every kind of festive amuse-
ment. Their normal habitation was always a low grassy mound,
or ancient tumulus, over the ashes of the mighty dead, often far
away among the upland moors, but in all cases at some distance
from the busy haunts of men. Occasionally a benighted wanderer
found considerable difficulty in passing a Shian Hillock. The
quiet balmy air, the dimly subdued light, together with the low
pleasing strains of the most enchanting music ; all combined so to
fascinate his ravished senses, and hinder his steps, that it was
often the dawn of the following morning before he was able to
resume his onward journey. From those who were privileged to
get a peep through an illuminated aperture, we learn that inside,
the roof was supported on jasper columns, and that every part
was beautifully decorated in the most splendid and magnificent
manner. There were no visible windows, lamps or candles, they
said, but the light which emanated from sparkling diamonds and
other precious stones, set in the clear transparent rock, cast a
rich luxurious radiance into every nook and corner of the
spacious apartments. Once a year, at least, the assembled inmates
were believed to ride out from the common knoll, in splendid
processions on Hallowe'en, to indulge their fancies in moonlight
revelry, marking the spots where they danced by numerous circles
of green, known in the district as Fairy Kings. In spite, however,
of all their seeming happiness and gaiety there was one dark
cloud that obscured the brightness of Fairydom. From time
immemorial they were bound to pay a periodical tax to the King
of the bottomless pit : —

" O pleasant it is in Fairyland,
And happy there to dwell,
But aye at every seven years end
We pay a teind to Hell."

DuNEARN— Dun earn, the Fortified Mound on the River Earn.
There are about two acres of good soil on the summit, but all
traces of the vitrification have long since disappeared. The late
farmer (Clark) used to tell of the immense quantities of fused

PLACE NAMES. 177

material which he removed in bringing this part under cultivation.
It is said, that, according to the military requirements of the period,
these forts were as complete as any which we now possess. When
threatened by a hostile invasion from a superior enemy, the
inhabitants collected their goods, retired to the nearest hill fort,
and often defied the utmost endeavours of their foes to dislodge
them.

FEMULLACH — Feidh mullagh, the Bog on the Height. .

FERNESS— Fearn innis, the Flat Alder-covered Pasture.
The Statistical Account (1842) of Nairnshire says that these
trees " formerly succeeded well along the banks of the river and
larger burns in Ardclach, attained to a great size, but of late
years they are decaying in this as in other parishes, though the
cause of their ceasing to thrive is unknown." Innis, is cognate
with the Latin, insula, an island, but innis does not always
mean island — it is often applied to a flattish pasture, and has
this signification here, as well as in many other parishes throughout
the Highlands.

FINDHORN — Fionnd Ear and 'n, a contraction of Amhainn or
Avon, the White East River. Fionnd is strictly applicable to
the extensive light sandy accumulations at the mouth. The old
name was Erne, still preserved in the ruined Castle of Erneside
which once protected its banks as an early stronghold. This
may be from Eireann, the genitive of Eire, which is a female
name, and probably that of some ancient Queen. Formerly there
were two ferry boats on the Findhorn within the parish — the one
on the Grantown road where the Logic Bridge now crosses the
river, and the other at the parish church, chiefly for the con-
venience of the Qlenferness worshippers. From source to mouth,
this is a wild and impetuous stream, and many lives have been
lost among its treacherous fords and pools. In consequence,
there is an old belief that the Findhorn claims a victim every
year, but two the following should the previous year have missed
its due. The Rev. Donald Mitchell states that during the thirty

178 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

years when he was minister of the parish, no fewer than thirty-
three persons were drowned in the river between Dulsie and the
old Logie Pool. " It is still a good salmon river, but less than
a century ago these fish were caught so abundantly, that it
became a common practice for servants, when. entering on an
engagement with any family resident on its banks, to stipulate
that they should not be offered salmon at any of their meals
beyond a stated number of days in the week."

FLEENAS— Fluich innis, the Wet Pasture, or Spring Field.
Fliche, water, and Flichneach, oozy or sloppy.

FLEEN ASMOKE— Fluich innis mor, the Big Wet Pasture.

FLEENAS NA GALL— That portion of the Wet Pasture which
was occupied by the Lowlander, in contradistinction to the Gael
or Highlander. An English family named Gairn lived here in
the early part of the nineteenth century. Gall, a stranger or
foreigner, was early applied to the Saxons, and afterwards to
the Norwegian and Danish pirates — hence, Fingalls, the white
strangers, and Dugalls, the black strangers.

FORNIGHTY — For, equal to Fan, a Prominence, and Eitidh, a
Smooth Surface.

GLENAIRNEY — Gleann airneadh, the Glen abounding in Sloes
or Black Thorn (Primus spinosa.)

GLENFERNESS — Gleann fearna innis, the Valley of the Alder-
covered Pasture. Surrounding the Mansion House there- is a
considerable extent of rich haugh land which, in its virgin state,
must have produced a great many wild Alders.

HUERNACH— Locally translated as Hell's Loch. Perhaps it
may be derived from ce, water, and the old Gaelic ifrinn, which
becomes iutharn, meaning infernal. This is a small mossy tarn,
without any apparent inlet or outlet. As its placid waters lie
gleaming and glittering amid the dark brown heather, one can
scarcely help being struck with its pure and gem-like beauty.
Of old it was confidently asserted that no plumb-line had ever
reached the bottom, and that a secret subterranean communication

PLACE NAMES. 179

existed between it and the sister loch, about a quarter of a mile
distant. Many years ago, this was proved on the authority of a
decent moss labourer. One evening, after finishing his day's
work, he left his peat barrow in its waters in order to tighten its
creaking wooden wheel, but, to his great astonishment, it appeared
next morning floating in the middle of the neighbouring Loch of
Belivat.

JACOB'S WELL— This name originated in a very commonplace
way, and dates from the time when the masons were engaged in
the erection of the first mansion house for the late Sir James
Montgomery Cunninghame. The structure, though well advanced
in the Castle Park, was never completed. One of the workmen,
Jacob by name, and a great favourite with all his fellows, dis-
covered the Spring, and made a point every day of going down
at the dinner hour, to drink from its clear crystal fountain. The
others soon learned to copy his example, and to this day Jacob's
Well continues to yield a plenteous supply of the same pure,
refreshing water, of which the Glen masons drank and slaked
their thirst on the warm sunny days of auld lang syne.

KEPPERNACH — Ceapfernach, the Place covered with Alder
Stumps. These trees were plentiful on both farms of this name,
almost within living memory.

KNOCKANDHU— Cnoc an dhu, the Little Black Knoll.

KNOCKANEORN— Cnoc an eorn, the Barley Hillock. Here, the
rising ground from which the name is derived, was a small patch
of arable land near the present farm house, but now forming part
of a sixteen acre field. In those days when drainage was but
little understood, cultivation was chiefly confined to the gentler
slopes. " The principal agricultural improvements," to quote from
the Statistical Account (1842), "recently made in Ardclach, have
been made by Mr Brodie of Lethen, on the Mains of Coulmony,
and upon moorish ground, on the hill called the Shaw, at an
elevation of nearly 800 feet above sea level. In these improve-
ments, the Deanston system of thorough drainage has been

180 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

carried into effect with complete success." A still older writer
says — " Many of the mountains have formerly been tilled ; for,
when the heath that covers them is pulled up, or burned, the
ridges and furrows of the plough are visible."

KNOCK CATTLE — Cnoc achadail, the Sleepy Hill. This is a
height from which the herdsmen obtained a wide view of the
animals, on the lower reaches, under their charge. Here, taking
advantage of the situation, they were often found sound asleep
during the warm Summer days.

KNOCK NA FEADAC— The Knoll of the Whistle. Fead, a
whistle, is cognate with the Latin Fides, a lute. This is a mound
on which the shepherds stood and directed their dogs by whistling,
to collect or arrange their sheep, on the flat below.

KNOCK NA SNEESHIN — Cnoc na t'(s)naoisean, the Hillock
where wayfarers rested to take Snuff. The knoll, now under
cultivation, at Belivat near the Eed Burn, was the spot where, in
by-gone days, the farmers and cottars, weary and footsore, on
their homeward journeys from Nairn, used to rest. Here, in
friendly intercourse, they exchanged hospitalities from their snuff
mulls, rehearsed the local gossip, and even at times, discussed the
social and political aspects of the great questions of the day.
Not unfrequently too, they stimulated their mental powers, and
revived their drooping energies by a " wee drap " from their
private flasks before separating for their respective homes, which
they sometimes, indeed, reached happier than when they left the
town. Many years ago, a worthy couple who lived in the lower
part of the parish, having an addition to the family circle, arranged
that the little stranger should be baptized in the Parish Church,
and, on the appointed day, in the presence of the congregation,
the ceremony was duly performed at the close of the service. It
was a very hot Sunday, and on the way home the baptismal
party sat down to rest on the Sneeshin Hillock, where> they
partook of a slight refreshment, thoughtfully provided by the
goodwife herself. This consisted chiefly of bread and butter and

PLACE NAMES. 181

cheese, liberally seasoned with good " mountain dew." As the
baby had fallen asleep from the soothing effects of progressive
motion, it was carefully wrapped up and laid down on the crisp
heather, beneath a shady broom bush. Gradually the animation
of the party became more and more evident. But when the
generous liquid failed they all agreed that it was time to proceed
homewards. After passing Rehaurie, " Big Bell " suddenly dis-
covered that they had either lost or forgotten the baby. At this
the mother began to cry, and all was now flutter and alarm — each
one blaming the other for the unseemly neglect. To their credit,
they all returned to the Sneeshin Hillock, and there they found
the baby, safe and sound, and none the worse for its strange ex-
perience on the lonely moor.

KNOCK NA VEENIE — Cnoc na feanaig, the Little Hill of the
Hoody Crow. (Corvus cornix.) In former days this was rather
a troublesome bird. Feeding as it did on carrion, but preferably
on sickly lambs, kids and winged game, it usually selected some
lonely elevation from which it was able, in safety, to make
frequent raids to the surrounding districts. But the social con-
dition of man and beast has greatly changed in modern times.
Knock na Veenie has, therefore, long since been deserted by the
Hoody Crow. Indeed, its struggle for existence, in this parish,
is now keener than ever.

LAKEN PRAE Lui— The Birth Hollow of the Calves. This is
a fine sheltered glenlet in the face of Alt Lui to which the ewes
and Highland cattle very often went, as they still do, when about
to give birth to their young.
LAKEN — Lagan, the Little Hollow.

LEONACH — Lian Achadh, a Swampy Meadow-like Pasture.
LEVRATTICH— Sliabh or Slieu Brattoch, the Heathy Slope of
the Flag. According to an old but constant tradition, this was
not only the signal ground, but a convenient rallying place when
it became known that Cateran bands had been seen lurking any-
where along the Findhorn. These rievers were in the habit of

182 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

making the most unexpected descents upon the parish, and
sometimes swept the flocks and herds clean before them from the
unguarded fields and pastures. Such forays required to be
thwarted by every possible strategy. No sooner, therefore, had
the church bell been rung and the flag displayed on, " Leubrattoch
Hill," than bodies of strong men might have been seen hurriedly
converging from all sides to intercept the foe, or force them, if
occasion demanded, to surrender their illgotten booty. An old
friend tells me (1887) that he remembered, when a boy, to have
seen the decayed trunk of a very large rowan tree near the site
of the present farm house, where the legend asserted that a
patriotic leader on one occasion, took up his position, with a local
contingent and successfully repelled a powerful body of western
freebooters — thus saving the rich farmers on the " Laigh " from
a sudden and well-organised attack upon their goods and live
stock.

LITTLE MILL — Here the miller ground his oats for many years
in a small old-fashioned structure in which he had little more
than room to turn. It was named by comparison with the Black
Mill (Mhuilinn Dhu) on the same stream. Not a vestige now
(1899) remains to mark where it stood.

LOCHANTUTACH — The Lochlet of the Tooting Horn. The
moorland tarn thus named, is little more than a good sized mossy
pool, with a soft peaty accumulation, all over the bottom. Along
the margin, on the west side, there occurs a pretty rank sedgy
vegetation, which the Highland cattle, in olden times, loved to
crop, as a pleasant variety to the dry herbage on which they
generally browsed, over the surrounding moor. Occasionally one
or more of the beasts, in attempting to bite the inner growth,
found themselves helplessly stuck in the tenacious deposit. Such
casualties more frequently happened in Spring, when the cattle
were newly turned out to the pasture, from their Winter quarters,
at the neighbouring townships, in a rather lean and weakly con-
dition The common herdsman was, therefore, provided with a

PLACE NAMES. 183

loud sounding bugle horn, with which he instantly raised the
alarm, whenever he observed that an animal was sinking, or had
waded in, beyond its depth. With all speed, the crofters from
Aitnoch and Kerrow, appeared on the spot, and by means of
floats, ropes and other appliances, did all they could to rescue the
poor struggling creature from impending death, by drowning in
the loch.

LOCHDHU — The Black Loch.

LOCH OF BOATH — The old story runs that long, long ago the
site of this lakelet was a valuable peat bog, from which the
people in the district, for many years, derived their Winter fuel.
Gradually, however, the hollow thus formed became filled with
water and was chosen as a favourite abode of the Kelpie and
Water Bull. About the middle (1750) of last century it is said
that the Cawdor Factor decided, for estate reasons, to drain the
loch, and agreed with a well known contractor to dig the trench;
On the day appointed his whole squad duly turned up and
immediately commenced operations. Scarcely had the first sod
been cut, than to their great surprise the sky suddenly lowered,
and immense masses of black cloud very sensibly obscured the
sun-light even at noon day. In a few minutes more, a terrible
thunder storm broke right overhead. Each succeeding peal
which rent the heavens seemed louder than the preceding, and,
for several hours the lightning flashed incessantly on every side —
running along the picks and shovels with awful brilliancy. It
was freely asserted that no one present had ever witnessed such
an outburst of elemental strife. Accordingly the poor labourers
became utterly disheartened ; they struck work, and declared
that for neither Lord nor Factor would they ever again put a
spade to the work, and the loch remains to the present day.

LOGIE — Lag, a Hollow. Here, in the olden time, there lived
a great poacher — Sandy MacTavish by name. For many years
he pursued his illegal craze, but managed very cleverly to baffle
every attempt on the part of his proprietor to bring him to

184 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

justice. One day, however, a keeper came upon him just as he
was secretly removing a fine hare from a trap. At last the fox had
been run down, and the fact was exultingly reported at head-
quarters. In a few days the sheriff officer served him with the
usual summons. Thinking over the case, he wisely concluded
that his only hope lay in respecting the law, and appearing
before a Justice of the Peace at Nairn. On the morning of the
court-day Sandy called on a young wife near by and asked her
to put him to bed for a few minutes in her baby's cradle. This
she laughingly did, and he confidently set off to town, where, as
required, he duly surrendered himself to the civil power. For-
tunately for him the prosecution had only one witness, and on
his Lordship asking him whether he pled guilty or not, he boldly
denied the charge, and swore that he had never committed any
such crime since the time he was rocked in the cradle ! The
Judge seemed greatly puzzled, but the plea was good, and
accordingly he considered it his duty to assolzie the pannel and
set him at liberty.

LOOPMORE — Lubmor, the Big Dubby Marsh.

LUBLEISTER — Lub, a Dub and Seilisdear, the Yellow Flag,
(Iris pseudacorus) — hence the place was known in Gaelic as the
Lily Marsh. In conversing one day at the fireside with the late
tenant — a worthy old Highlander of some four score years — we
suggested that the name of his croft might mean " The Bend of
the Arrow Maker." " No, no," he at once replied, " it was named
from the abundance of a curious water plant called Seilisdear with
long sword-like leaves and grew in a wet bog out there beside
the house. I do not remember ever to have seen it in flower
and cannot tell you its English name, but when I drained and
took in the land, many years ago, it disappeared and has not
been seen in this locality since." At the time we quite agreed
with the good man and still think that his derivation is perfectly
correct.

LURG— Lurga, a Long Sow-backed Ridge. Lairig means hilly

PLACE NAMES. 185

slopes, and Larg or Lurg signifies the base of a hill extending
into a plain.

LYNE — Loin, a Large Sunny Level.

LYNECHORK — Loin a coirc, the Sunny Level of the Oats.

LYNEMORE — Loin mor, the Large Sunny Level. On this hold-
ing there is not only an extensive area of table- land, but also a
Linne, or pool, at the foot of each of the two waterfalls on the
adjacent Leonach Burn.

MAINS OF COULMONY AND GLENFERNESS— The term now so
common in Scotland for the Home Farm, is a corrupted form of
the French word, " Demesne," which originally meant that part
of the estate held and cultivated by the proprietor for his own
immediate benefit when resident in the Mansion House. The
custom dates in Scotland from the time of Malcolm Kanmore,
when estates were usually divided into "Inlands" and "Outlands."
The former, or demesne, lay quite convenient to the Castle. The
fields were tilled and cropped " by bondsmen who are described
in the chartularies as * villani/ * fugitivi,' ' nativi,' and ' cottarii,'
as well as ' cumerlachs ' from their wailings and distress con-
sequent on the conditions of their hard service."

MAOL AN TAILLEAR— The Bald Hill of the Tailor. So named,
it is said, from the solitary croft of a local tradesman, who went
about from house to house in the prosecution of his humble, but
useful calling.

MEATON — Probably a Meadow-like stretch of pasture.

MILTON — The Anglicised form of Baile a mhuillinn, the Mill
Homestead.

MONADHLIADH— The Grey Mountain Chain. In Ardclach,
there is little more than the northern termination, but like the
extended range, it too, consists of numerous deep glens, with
correspondingly lofty pale summits.

NEW INN — The same as Balinriach. The adjective was used
to distinguish the place from the other public houses previously
established in the county. For many years there has been no

186 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

licence here, and the New Inn now exists as a body without the
spirit. That the loss was a great gain, is fully evidenced by the
increased moral and social welfare of every one within the sur-
rounding district.

ORD (THE) — A Hammer of any kind. As ^he Hill seems
roughly to represent an oblong mallet with the thin end jutting
out towards the west, it may have been so named by the roving
Norsemen in their wild incursions along the Moray seaboard.

PATGREENIE — Pat Grainaich, the Sunny Spot.

PATMUSSACH — The Worthless Hillock. This is still a sour
neglected spot, producing a coarse tasteless vegetation which
even the Highland cattle don't much care to eat.

PATNAMAIN— Pat na moin, the Place of the Peat Pots. As
the neighbouring moss still continues to supply the Glenferness
tenants with the staple portion of their fuel, the former character-
istic remains, in many parts even to the present day.

POOL NA BODDACH — Poll na Bhodaich, the Ghost's Pool.
This pool, drumly, dark and deep, lies under the dull shade of an
impending rock which rises on the right bank, just where the
Leven bridge now spans the stream. Situated as it is in close
proximity to the burying ground, and itself the scene of many a
drowning catastrophe, what wonder if the belated traveller at
such a spot felt the air cold and clammy, and, in the awe-struck
silence, became quite " creepy " at the bare possibility of seeing
the White Lady gliding fitfully among the grave stones, or
hearing the Water Kelpie screeching and splashing amid the
dingy element as he approached the cheerless ford from either
side ! Nor was the simple peasant from the upland wilds alone
in his eerie faith, for with the poet : —

" All nations have believed that from the dead,

A visitant at intervals appears.
'Gainst such belief, there's something stronger still
In its behalf, let those deny who will."

There is also an old tradition that soon after the Reformation in
Scotland, all the Roman Catholic images (boddachs) within the

PLACE NAMES. 187

parish chapel were passionately seized by the local Protestant
enthusiasts and thrown into this pool. The sacrilegious act was
long remembered with fear and trembling, and it materially
helped to emphasise the name.

POOL NA CALLICH — Poll na Caillich, the Pool of the Nun or
Sister of Mercy connected with the place of worship which
formerly stood on the site of the present Established Church. A
later name was the Bell Pool.

POOL NA GARROW— Poll na Garbh, the Rough Pool.

PRIPPETS — A corrupted form of Preobaid, a word often applied
to anything Trifling or Diminutive, and was the only name by
which the small croft of Moss-side was formerly known.

REARPLE — Reuth Earball, the Tail of the Common Pasture,

REBANCHOR— Reuth Bein a Charr, the Hill Pasture near the
Mossy Plain at Banchor.

REFOUBLE— Reuth Pobul, the Free Pasture Run. The present
farm is only a very restricted portion of a large stretch of hill
common on which, for many years, the neighbouring taxmen
indiscriminately grazed their sheep and Highland cattle. About
the end of the eighteenth century, however, the tenants were all
limited to an equitable number of animals in proportion to the
annual rent paid for their respective holdings.

REHAURIE — Reuth Samhair, the Summer Pasture.

RELAING— Reuth Leathan, the Broad Pasture.

REMORE — Reuth mor, the Big Pasture.

REROPPIE — Reuth roibhe, the Wet Pasture. Formerly this
was a rather spongy moor, believed by the shepherds to generate
among their flocks that much-dreaded disease known to them as
the "Rot." On ill-drained pastures, during wet seasons, Fluke
Worms (Distomae hepaticae) are bred in large numbers and do
sometimes cause great mortality when conveyed to the ruminant
stomach with the wet herbage to which the larvae are attached in
their early stage. By a wonderful instinct, they soon find their
way to the liver and gall-bladder through the intervening tissues.

188 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Here, by sucking the bile, they gradually drain the life energies
of an innocent host, and thereby, in due course, attain their own
full development.

EUMACHROY — Eomach ruadh, the Red Marsh. Originally the
chalybeate waters, oozing up through the superincumbent soil,
left a reddish coagulum from which the bog received its name.
Many years ago, however, the place was carefully dried and con-
verted into a fairly sized croft.

SCORE — Sgor, a Dingle in a Hill-side, with Sharp Rocks, or a
Waste Stony Part inside a Field. In 1654 the spelling was
Skorghy. Locally the name was applied to a common gusset of
rough scraggy land which lay between the neighbouring farms of
Logie and the Lyne. Within recent years it was brought under
cultivation and erected into a separate holding, which still retains
the early name.

SGEODAG — A Corner Patch. Formerly this was a poor croft
in the vicinity of Aitnoch.

SHENVAL— Seann Baile, the Old Township. This was a small
collection of rude huts which may have been the oldest home-
steads in the parish.

SLAGACHORRIE— The Hollow of the Glenlet. The term was
anciently applied to a semicircular recess occurring among the
hills, though such a depression only varied in shape according to
the local geological formation, but in all cases it was originally
due to the disintegrating influence of some mountain torrent.
Occasionally it means a whirlpool in the sea. Some main-
tain that the name is Slochd a Corrie, the Ravine of the
Kettle, and the following tradition is told in support of this
view : — On that tragic night in 1442, when the Corny n Family
were unsuspectingly put to the dagger at their own table, in
Raite Castle, by the Mackintoshes, whom their hosts had intended
as the real victims, one of the domestics — a covetous young
fellow — is said to have done a crafty deed. Coolly taking
advantage of the terrible death struggle which raged in the great

PLACE NAMES. 189

hall, he very stealthily entered the strong room and emptied the
contents of the various coffers into an old kettle for his own
personal use. Soon after midnight he slipped away from the
Castle, under the cover of darkness, and sped with his heavy
burden across the Hill of the Ord. On reaching this lonely
hollow, he hastily dug a suitable pit, in a secret cranny, and
therein carefully deposited his ill-gotten gear — hoping to remove
it at the earliest possible opportunity. But the fates had decreed
it otherwise ; the lad never returned, and the kettle with all its
precious treasure still remains undiscovered, even to the present
day.

STRANEORN — Sron corn, the Barley Nose. In the Streens this
was a narrow stretch of " haugh " land, along the river side,
which yielded good crops of barley. It always sold for a high
price to the local smugglers, and was generally depended on by
the farmer for the payment of his rent and other necessary
expenses. Such areas were usually styled the " Champion
Fields " because they were able to produce this valuable grain
for two or more years in succession. This was the home of the
famous Callum Beg.

TACHTER — The full name is Loch an Taister-e, the Devil's
Loch — though it is long since dried and the site under cultivation.
In by-gone days, the good people along the Meikle Burn were
very generally addicted to smuggling ; and it was in connexion
with the various rough " Ploys " got up by the " Bothie " loungers
during the long Winter nights that this moorland tarn obtained
its infamous name. About a century ago, there lived near by a
well known character familiarly called " Shaggy Jamie," as he
never shaved his beard or "cropped " his hair. On various occasions
he had expressed among the farm servants, a strong desire to get.
the " Horseman Word," and be initiated into all the wonderful
mysteries of that occult brotherhood. The wish was duly discussed
in the " smiddy " for several evenings, and at last it was agreed to
gratify him in this respect. To his great delight, arrangements,

190 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

they said, wpuld be made for the grand celebration, beside the
Loch an Taister-e, at the following Christmas. As it happened,
the night turned out clear and frosty, and when the party
arrived they found that the axle of an old fashioned cart had
been sunk perpendicularly into the ground with a single wheel
set on the projecting pivot so as to revolve freely in a horizontal
position. On the nave of this primitive device, Jamie was
seriously directed, by the master of the ceremonies, to take his
seat. Thereupon two " friends," chanting some outlandish
gibberish, took their places on either side and gradually worked
up the heartless contrivance to a high degree of circular motion.
As it was impossible for him to put forward any efforts in self-
defence, one of the party kept a constant stream of cold water
trickling over his whole person until they thought he had
enough of it. Cold and senseless, poor Jamie was then helped
down from his mazy seat and forced to take a smart race round
the loch in order to restore his disordered circulation to its normal
condition. This done, the " brethren " separated, never to meet
again for a similar purpose in the parish of Ardclach.

TOM AN UAN — The Knoll of the Lamb, id est, Lamb Hill.

TOM CLACK — The Gossip's Hillock. Here, after the day's
work was over, the neighbouring peasants often forgathered in
friendly " celeidh," and many stories, both weird and pathetic of
local romance, love and adventure were eloquently told around
the fire. But when the narrators, themselves imbued with the
superstitious, thrilled their hearers with many gruesome tales of
ghosts, witches and fairies, it sometimes became an ordeal, from
which even the stoutest hearts recoiled, to face the homeward
journey alone, about the dead hour of midnight.

TOMLACHLAN — The Knoll of Lachlan, now long since for-
gotten.

TOMLEAGH — Tom Hath, the Grey Knoll. This was a barren
spot, and was named from an abundance of the silver lichen
known as the Rein-deer Moss — (Cladonia rangiferina).

PLACE NAMES. 191

TOMLOAN — Tom Ion, the Knoll beside the Spongy haugh
originally formed on both sides of the Black Burn.

TOMNAGEE — Tom na guidh, the Hill of the Wind. The name
was conferred at the suggestion of the late Mr James Brodie,
of Lethen. It was formerly known as Greenloch.

TOM NAM MEAN — The Hill of the Kids. In the Spring time
the nanny goats usually search for a secluded spot in a remote
part of their pasture wherein to conceal and suckle their young.

TOMNARROCH — Tom nathrach, the Serpent Knoll. Without
doubt, the reptile here referred to is the Slow Worm (Anguis
fragilis). It is in no sense an adder, but a true lizard, and occurs
pretty generally all over Nairnshire. Although shy, timorous,
and quite destitute of poison fangs, and as powerless to inflict an
injury as an ordinary worm, yet, curiously enough, it is more
dreaded in some parts of the country than even the viper (Vipera
berus) itself. It particularly enjoys basking on a dry sunny
exposure, and not being very active on a bare surface it was
pretty frequently seen among the upland wilds. This gravelly
" torn " was, therefore, a most congenial habitat, where the early
shepherds and herdsmen, noticing only its serpentine movements
as it wriggled about in search of some suitable retreat, conferred
the name — Tomnarroch — without troubling themselves to examine
very minutely as to whether the creature was a lizard or a
veritable ophidian. We have also heard the following story in
connection with this place. Long, long ago, a rather miserly
peasant, after erecting a rude homestead here, reclaimed a few
acres from the surrounding moor, and settled down as a small
crofter. Like many of his neighbours he had often some difficulty
in getting ends to meet. But one night a bright idea came into
his head. He resolved to store up a crop or two of his hay, in
one big stack, and wait for a year of scarcity, when he hoped to
command the market and obtain what to him would prove a
little fortune. By and bye this crop failed, the price rose, and
the coveted riches seemed almost within his grasp. With a light

192 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

heart he proceeded to the cornyard ; but no sooner had he removed
the thatch than, to his great astonishment, he found that the
stack was one wriggling mass of loathsome serpents ! The whole
colony, not relishing such a rude intrusion into their comfortable
abode, became excited and began to dart out in. all directions,
compelling the poor man and his wife to consider their personal
safety and flee for dear life. The situation was now believed to
be serious in the extreme ; for he not only lost his hay but had to
employ men for several days to search for, and destroy all the vile
reptiles about his premises, before he could settle down in easy
confidence to again discharge the usual duties of his little holding.
In front of the dwelling house there stands a large umbrageous
Scotch fir, Pinus sylvestris, the solitary remnant, in this district,
of the old Lochindorbh Forest.

TOMASHOGGLE— Tom a siagal, the Knoll of the Eye. Less
than a century ago it was popularly believed in the parish that
this hillock was the home of a small colony of Fairy Folk who
lived in gorgeous apartments right under the grassy dome. By
and bye a young married couple rather boldly selected this spot as
their future abode. A rude hut was duly erected on the levelled
surface, and a few acres brought under cultivation in the vicinity,
but owing to the gravelly nature of the soil, rye was the only
cereal that could be successfully raised — hence the name. Some
years after the crofter and his wife had got settled down, we are
told that a trig little fairy appeared in the gloaming to John, as
he was cutting sticks for the evening fire. With a delightful
smile she introduced herself and begged him to loan her a peck
of meal to feed her family in an unexpected emergency. This
he cheerfully did from their scanty store, and when the borrower
returned a few nights after to pay back her debt, she assured the
good man that the meal she had brought him was a special kind
known only to the fairies themselves. " It is prepared," she said,
41 from the finest top grains which we gathered from the strongest
stalks, on the richest oat fields, and mysteriously ground at mid-

PLACE NAMES. 193

night in the Little Mill by one of the cleverest workmen in all
fairydom. It will not only fill your girnel, no matter what size,"
she added, " but continue undiminished as long as you live, on
the sole condition that you and your wife keep the whole trans-
action a profound secret." As the terms were easy, the poor
man promised implicit obedience. Thereupon the fairy, well
pleased, bade him farewell, and instantly vanished into the
surrounding darkness. All went well till the end of the following
harvest, when a few lads dropped in " To crack their nuts and
pu' their stocks, and haud their Hallowe'en." In the midst of the
fun the goodwife remembered that she would need to bake a ban-
nock or two for the company's supper. Taking out the necessary
quantity of meal, she somewhat fretfully muttered — " Botheration
to this fairy meal, I think it will never go done ! " John looked
at her very sternly and said — " Be quiet, woman, and don't blow
away with your mouth what you did not gather with your
hands." But it was enough, the spell was broken, and the next
morning when Janet went to make her husband's porridge she
found that the girnel was quite empty !

TORR — Tor garbh in full, the Rough Hill. This word is found
in all the languages of the East and West. It has various
meanings — tower, castle, mound, hill, rock, and even grave, from
the cairns over the places of sepulture.

WADE'S ROAD — Traces of this old military highway are still
to be seen along the route originally followed within the parish.
In many places the disused track has been repaired and in-
corporated with the modern county roads in the district. In
1724, General Wade was commissioned by the Government to
report on the disordered state of the Highlands. About four
years later, he projected his famous scheme which did so much at
a later period to open a section of the country which had been to
that time almost inaccessible. Except where he met any insur-
mountable difficulty, he made his roads run in a straight line
both up hill and down dale. Mr Burt, a writer in the reign of

194 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

George II., says :— " The roads on these moors are now as smooth
as Constitution Hill. I have galloped on some of them for miles
together in great tranquility, heightened by reflection on my
former fatigue, when, for a great part of the way, I had been
obliged to quit my horse — it being too dangerous to ride and
even hazardous to pass on foot." Shaw, in his " History of the
Province of Moray," appears to have thought them almost
perfect. " They are formed," he writes, "from twenty to twenty-
four feet broad, are annually repaired, have side drains, and
great stones set up on the margins to enable travellers to mount
on horseback, and act as guides in snow and mist. In a word,
by means of these roads, soldiers have a straight and easy route ;
artillery is carried into all the forts, waggons and all kinds of
wheeled carriages can pass from south to north, the weekly posts
make quick despatch — commerce and intercourse are made easy —
convenient lodging is found at every stage, and the Highlands
will be gradually civilized and improved. At Doulasie, in the
parish of Ardclach a bridge of two arches was built across the
Findhorn in the year 1754." The excellence of these roads has
been summed up in the following couplet : —

" If you had seen these roads before they were made,
You would haud up your hands and bless General Wade."

CHAPTER VII.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PARISH.

From the elevated and exposed position of Ardclach, the climate
is comparatively cold, and the Winters are sometimes rather
severe and long continued, but the air is pure and bracing, while
the health of the inhabitants shows a remarkable immunity from
all the more dangerous forms of epidemic diseases. The annual
rainfall does not usually exceed twenty -six inches, and the subsoil
is porous, a condition which allows the superabundant moisture to
be quickly absorbed. Considering the many undulations which
occur over the surface, there are fewer hollows which retain water
enough to constitute what is ordinarily called a lake, than might
be expected. The two largest are the Lochs of Belivat and
Boath. The former covers an area of about twenty-six acres, but
has no visible feeder or known outlet.

As the rock formations on which the superincumbent soil, along
with the accompanying gravelly deposits immediately rest, chiefly
belong to the stratified crystalline series with the associated
granitic masses, there is very little variety in the lithological
character of the district. At several points along the Findhorn,
but especially at Coulmony, Ferness and Dulsie, the stream has
cut for itself deep narrow gorges through the opposing barriers,

196 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

and exposed some splendid sections of the underlying rock.
Occasionally we meet with a granitic out-crop, the arrangement of
whose quartzose crystals is strikingly beautiful amid the darker
coloured grains of mica and hornblend. This stone forms a most
durable building material, and when polished is equal in appear-
ance to the finest specimens of the Aberdeen or Peterhead
varieties.

Detached in varying sizes from the surrounding heights, there
are not a few erratic boulders of the primary formation, sparsely
strewn over the surface of the country. A relative set of travelled
blocks, consisting of loosely compacted liver-coloured conglomerate,
is met with in the middle area of the parish as well as all along
the Lowlands of Nairn and Moray. A good example of this class
may be seen resting rather uncomfortably on the margin of an
open gravel pit on the east side of the Meikle Burn road about
three quarters of a mile above Achavrate. In addition to the
usual large pebbles found embedded in this rock, we notice that
the pink quartzite characteristic is present in great quantities and
that bits of pure white quartz are also numerous. The latest
approved geological opinion is that these stray masses are the
product of an immense glacial ocean — the only possible solution
yet suggested. In this way only, could they have been carried
during the Ice Age, down from the Strath Errick heights on
Loch Ness, near the head waters of the River Nairn, more than
thirty miles distant and deposited on the lower reaches towards
the Moray Firth, as the frozen sheets gradually melted in the
course of their onward flow, in a north-sasterly direction.

In its passage along the parish boundary near Lethen House,
the Meikle Burn has scooped out for itself a pretty deep ravine
through the lowest division of the Old Red Sandstone down to the
basal conglomerate which underlies the well known fossiliferous
deposit, exposing large numbers of curious schistose nodules
which contain many imperfect remains of both the animal and
vegetable life peculiar to the series. These are succeeded at the

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 197

Clune and Braeval by the famous fish bed from which Louis
Agassiz, the Swiss naturalist, obtained some of his finest specimens
to illustrate his valuable work on the extinct races of the Old Red
Sandstone. The fish remains are found imbedded in the heart
of those small elliptically-shaped bodies of limestone which form
the chief characteristic feature of this geological zone. The
nodules themselves are composed of pure lime, and were largely
burned at one time for mortar, as well as a powerful agent in
fertilising newly reclaimed land. In many cases the specimens
exposed by the hammer, are in a wonderful state of preservation,
exhibiting as they do every fin and scale in their proper places,
just as they were developed in the living individual long ages
ago. The following species, among others, have been found
here : — Pterichthys Milleri, P. cornutus, P. oblongus, P. pro-
ductus, Coccosteus oblongus, Diplacanthus striatulus, Cheirolepis
Cummingiae and Osterlepis major.

On the left bank of the Findhorn, near the old Ardclach
Schoolhouse and onward to Belivat and Remore, there occurs a
beautiful series of low sandy accumulations known by the name
of Kaimes or Eskers. It is now generally admitted that they
originated during the ice meltings which brought the period of
intense glaciation in Great Britain to a close. Long after the
frozen summits of the Monadhliadhs, under the influence of the
returning warmth, had begun to thaw, the valley of the Findhorn
continued to be choked up to the level of the surrounding land
by an enormous glacier, whose sea-ward progress was almost
completely arrested by the immovable mass of Cairnbar. Over
this surface there descended a broad current of water loaded with
shingle and fine sand, disintegrated from the upper reaches. At
the bottoms of all the great straits and fissures in the ice sheet,
sand bars were formed in the calm water, but without any of the
large boulders, as during the earlier stages there was no floating
ice. After a time when the cold had disappeared, the land became
submerged to a considerable extent, with a falling temperature ;

198 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

these ridges and gravelly deposits were rearranged and beautifully
moulded by the agency of conflicting currents passing over the
bed of the ocean. Finally, when the land had regained its former
height and the cold returned, the new glaciers which were formed
among the mountains, began to creep down as before, towards the
sea, dropping their load of embedded boulders now and again
over the surface as well as upon the early formed sand hills, as
the ice-raft gradually melted away under a climatic condition
which approached very much to that now experienced in modern
times.

The social state of the people has greatly improved within the
last century. Previously, the peasantry and even well-to-do
farmers knew nothing of the comforts enjoyed by their descen-
dants in the present day. They lived contentedly in little
low-browed, black huts, built of turf and rough hill stones in
alternate layers. The roof was always covered with divots, straw
or heather, while the interior was usually divided into two
apartments termed a " but " and a " ben." For the construction
of these, the surrounding pastures were often greatly impoverished
by cutting and carrying away much of the best soil. The old
Scotch laird, therefore, did not speak without some truth when
he asserted, that " The flaughter spade would do more ill in
Scotland than the Union with England." The roof was supported
on long couples of undressed trees, joined at the ridge
and resting, some ten or twelve feet apart, on a clay floor,
but sunk for a short distance into the wall near the foundation.
The fire was placed on a large hearth stone in the centre. Smoke
rose in clouds, usually penetrating into all parts, and tainted the
clothes and persons of the inmates with its peaty odour, before
it found egress by a hole above, or not unfrequently through the
open door or tiny apertures in the walls, intended for windows.
Everything was black or tawny brown. Being accustomed by
long experience to breathe such a loaded atmosphere, the family
did not appear to feel the least discomfort or inconvenience

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 199

therefrom. On the contrary, they affirmed that it added greatly
to the warmth and general cosiness of the dwelling. The inferior
bipeds and quadrupeds had the freest access to the " fire end."
Accordingly hens and ducks went in and out at their pleasure,
while the pig marched about with great familiarity among pots
and pans in search of any forgotten dainties. Occasionally when
the weather was exceptionally cold, it might be seen stretched
before the fire, enjoying a pleasant sleep on the warm hearth.
The principal bed, in which the good man and his spouse reposed,
was a large square box called a " close bed " from its being
everywhere shut in. It was usually fitted with a pair of sliding
doors, which was generally drawn to, when the parties retired to
rest. In those days, it seems never to have occurred to any one,
that pure air was in the least necessary as a preservative of good
health. Sometimes the domestics occupied the "fire end" only, and
gave up the other apartment for the accommodation of their
cattle, while the poultry roosted anywhere overhead as much for
their protection against the ravages of the fox, as that the cock
should crow the household from their beds in the morning. At
long intervals the refuse and dung in both ends were cleared out
by two strong men, when the house was considered about as good
as new. A strip of ground at the back formed the kail-yard.
Greens and red cabbage occupied a large space, while, as a
valuable domestic medicine, chamomile and hoarhound were sure
to be found in a spare corner. A row of bourtree or willow
was generally planted along one or more sides to ward off any
malign influence, as well as being an effective shelter and protec-
tion to the homestead. In front stood the reserve midden, only a
couple of yards or so from the door. During Winter it was
heaped up with dung and decaying solids, while throughout the
Summer the ugly hollow smelt strongly of its former contents.
Here the hens and pigs held the freest revelry, and sometimes
unwary visitors after nightfall were known to stumble and fall.
A small breed of hardy Highland ponies, called "garrons," were

200 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

kept and worked along with the cow or ox in general cultivation.
The former, which were never shod, carried the manure and other
burdens in basket panniers or " skellachs " suspended one on each
side across the back. Excepting the coulter and share, the ploughs
were entirely made of wood, and so light that thjs farmer or his
servant usually carried one on his shoulder to or from the field as
circumstances might require. To draw it, however, was altogether
a different matter. This required from six to eight black cattle
yoked in a double line with a goadsman walking beside them to
see that each one took its proper share in the draught. They
were supposed to be specially fond of music, and for their
encouragement the driver always whistled a simple melody
peculiar to this kind of field labour. So accustomed did the
animals become to its pleasing influence that they stood when he
stopped, and only started when he recommenced. Harrow tines
were sometimes made of iron, but more commonly of the wood of
the Holy Tree (Ilex aquifolium.) Black and white oats, Scotch
bere, rye and potatoes formed the chief crops, which seldom
yielded more than three returns. The harvests usually extended
far into the Autumn, and in consequence the grain was often
considerably damaged by the early frosts. The value of lime as
a fertilising agent had begun to be spoken about, but the farmers
were unable to afford the expense. Almost the only artificial
light, other than the fire, during the long Winter evenings, was
obtained from splits of moss-fir called " spiacks." On special
occasions a tallow candle was kindled, but it did little more than
serve to modify the darkness by producing a dim and shadowy
appearance over the apartment. Spinning and weaving were
important forms of domestic industry. The " plaiden," prepared
in the parish, had the reputation of being the best in the county.
As a pleasant entertainment after their daily toil, the long even-
ings were often spent by the lads and lasses in visiting at
the neighbouring cottages. Here they sat round the fire and
amused each other by singing ballads, chatting over any local

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 201

gossip, or listening to some new versions of those weird
tales of superstition which exercised such a depressing and
cramping influence on the minds of our forefathers. Witch-
craft, in all its worst forms, was a universal belief. Every
precaution was taken by the peasantry to protect themselves arid
chattels against such a subtle and dangerous agency. A sorceress
of more or less repute resided in every parish, while a district
sometimes even supported a professional witchfinder whose
special duty was to search the locality, and bring all such
escapes from Christianity to merited justice.

Private distillation became illegal by Act of Parliament in 1820,
but for three centuries — fifteenth, sixteenth and seventeenth —
whisky was the favourite drink of the labouring classes. It was
esteemed a panacea for every ill, and the following rhyme was

often sung in its praise : —

" A cogie o' yill and a pickle oatmeal,
An* a dainty wee drappie o' whisky,
Was our forefather's dose
For to swill down their brose,
An* keep them aye cheery and frisky. "

At a later period smuggling, which was accompanied with many
evils, was commonly practised among the crofters all over the
country. About the beginning of the last century an attempt was
made to put it down, and curiously enough when this business
was restricted within the parish to only " five licensed distilleries
and one public house at Dulsie Bridge," the morals of the people,
it was said, became greatly improved !

The Gaelic language appears to have declined in Ardclach at a
much earlier period than in the adjoining parishes. Seventy
years ago, English and Gaelic were generally spoken by the
natives, but to-day we are not sure if there be half-a dozen who
can converse in the latter fairly well, and the number is still
fewer who make even the least pretence to read arid write the
ancient tongue.

The Highland dress of home made tartan, which was formerly
worn along with the distinctive dirk, sporran, and skian-dhu, has

202 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

long since been abandoned for machine-made fabrics and the
modern Teutonic style of attire. The old people attributed the
introduction of rheumatism to the substitution of cotton and linen
instead of the woollen texture called " plaiden," formerly used
for underclothing. They also affirmed that the production of
erysipelas and other kindred diseases in the country was due to
the poisonous principle contained in the potato which began to
form part of the daily fare after the year 1750. Hill mutton,,
when in condition before Winter, and salmon from the Findhorn,.
were occasionally eaten, but the diet on which the poor chiefly
depended was a vegetable one. Porridge and milk, in nearly every
household, were prepared as the morning repast, while potatoes,
sowans, and kale, served with barley cakes and milk, formed the
usual meal at mid-day. A strong compound of pease, barley, and
rye, ground together, and known as Rush, was often given to the
servants, but so difficult was this mixture to digest that many
required to take medicine twice a week, to enable them to con-
tinue its use ! A kind of gruel, called " brochan," was often made
by the goodwife during the forenight, and at supper time, this-
was poured out into a series of wooden bowls and 'handed round
among the family as well as any neighbours who might have
dropped in to enjoy a Highland " ceilidh."

Meat sold in Forres and Nairn at threepence and fourpence
per pound. Fowls could be had for a penny each, while eggs
brought twopence per dozen. The wages of men-servants ran
from £5 to £6, and women got from thirty-six to forty shillings
per half-year. Day labourers had to be content with sixpence to
eightpence each.

In the year 1794, Mr James Donaldson, Factor for the Hon.
William Ramsay Maule of Panmure, in his Report to the Board
of Agriculture for Scotland says : —

" On the great majority of farms in Nairnshire, no stated or
regular rotation of cropping was followed ; and almost the whole
county being unenclosed, the tenants were still accommodated

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 203

with natural pasture for their cattle on the moors near the base
of the mountains. The implements were very imperfect, and,
with few exceptions were fabricated by the tenants themselves.
It is unnecessary to describe the clumsy awkwardness of the
plough, in the construction of which comparatively little iron
was employed. The carts had wheels about two feet in diameter ;
and the " skellach" sledge, a conical basket frame of twigs, was still
commonly used. With regard to roads, the military road from
Strathspey to Fort-George, was in excellent condition. The
other roads were made and repaired under the authority of the
Act 1669, but it is unnecessary to observe that they merit no
commendation. The ploughs were chiefly drawn by oxen,
which, when the crop was laid down, towards the end of June,
were boarded for about three months at the rate of Is 3d to Is 6d
a week each in the glens of the Highlands. The breed remained
unmixed, crossed neither with the Lancashire nor Dutch, and they
exhibited, when in flesh, a more handsome figure than the herds
in the county of Moray. The horses which were reared by the
most attentive farmers, sold at £7 to £10 sterling. Sheep were,
almost without exception, of the small white-faced kind, which
appeared to be the original breed of the county." The real rental
of the County of Nairn was then £8000, but in 1897 it was
£36,632.

Up till about the middle of the nineteenth century the County
standard measure was too large. The Rev. Mr Macbean, minister
of Ardclach, having directed attention to this matter in connection
with an application for additional stipend in the year 1816,
Professor Leslie of Edinburgh was employed by the Teind Court
to test the local firlot and found it 4-2 per cent, larger than the
Linlithgow or Standard Measure. In 1820, the subject was
brought before the Nairnshire Farming Society by Mr Lewis
Dunbar Brodie, of Burgie and Lethen, and after very careful
investigation by their committee, they corroborated the finding
of Professor Leslie. Many years, however, elapsed before the

204 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

various weights and measures were altered, and made absolutely
correct according to the Imperial Standard. Thus, in matters of
commerce, the giving a full and overflowing measure for so long
a period could not be considered a bad characteristic of the
Nairnshire people.

Owing to the geographical position of Ardclach the inhabitants
were rather isolated from the local centres of civilization, and for
this reason their manners and customs were considered somewhat
less polished than those of their more privileged neighbours. In
addition to the two annual holidays at Christmas arid the New
Year, the great popular rejoicings were held in connection with
Baptisms, Marriages, and even Lykewaiks and Funerals. When,
a death occurred in the parish, the relatives and other friends
gathered in the evening at the house of the deceased for the
purpose of " taking about," and watching over the remains
through the nights previous to the interment. This custom
originated in early times, from the natural fear entertained
by the inmates at having to pass the time alone with the
corpse, as well as to prevent the possibility of its being molested,
or even carried away, by fairies and evil spirits. For many
years these meetings were conducted here as elsewhere, with
much unseemly mirth and rough frolics which ill assorted with
the solemn circumstances in which the thoughtless rioters had
professedly met. But all this is now changed, for, during the two
past generations at least, no such improper behaviour has been
witnessed in the district.

As might have been expected, music contributed in no small
degree to the enjoyment of almost every social gathering, and the
instrument most in favour was the national bagpipe. In addition
to the ordinary reels, marches and strathspeys, the pibroch — a
wild and irregular melody — was greatly admired all over the
Highlands. It is remarkable for the simplicity of its rhythmical
modulations, combined with the jumbled flow of its notes
throughout the quicker parts. The exciting pathos of its martial

*
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 205

sounds was reputed to stir up in the Celtic imagination a vivid
rehearsal of the terrible conflict in all its parts — the steady
advance, the clash of arms and the glorious victory, with the
consequent pursuit of the enemy so indelibly associated in the
mind of the Highlander with every scene of military strife.

Previous to the Reformation there is no mention of the parish
as presently constituted, but there is occasional reference to two
places of worship connected with the district. The one was at
Lethen while the other stood on a spot, still known as the Chapel
Park, near the modern Mansion House at Glenferness. The field
is very hard and stony throughout, but on the south side of the
included clump of trees there is a small patch of fine soil, through
which, as the grieve states, " the plough goes as if it were in a
meal girnel." Almost without doubt, this was formerly the
Priest's garden from which the surface stones had been gradually
removed by the successive incumbents. Both sanctuaries be-
longed to the same diocese and were supplied with religious
services by the Dean of Auldearn.

A large boulder, called the Priest's Stone, bearing the figure of
a basso-relievo cross, is said to have been covered over by the
workmen, ahout seventy years ago, when repairing the present
county road leading down the brae to the parish church. Such,
cross-marked stones were very common all over the country.
In 1500 the parish is first mentioned as a vicarage, whereof the
minister of .Rafford was patron. He was succeeded by Brodie of
Lethen. The church was erected about the year 1645, and for
several years Ardclach and Edinkillie were united and served in
turn by the same clergyman. This arrangement, proving unsatis-
factory to the members and adherents, was appealed against, and
the Government, in deference to the wishes of the people, issued
a Decree of date 13th February, 1650, erecting the district as it
now stands into a civil parish. The following was included from
Auldearn : — " The lands of Lethenbar, Fornighty, Fleenas-na-gall,
Achamore, and Achavelgin, belonging to Alexander Brodie of

206 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Lethen, and Middle Fleenas and Achnatone, belonging to William
Rose of Clava, and Hugh Rose, fiar thereof." The present manse
was built in 1744. It was repaired and an addition put to it in
1816, and again repaired in 1841. The Disruption occurred in
1843 and the Free Church was erected in the yeaj following. In
1817 the population of the parish was 1287. The following is
a list of the Protestant ministers since the Reformation : —

Mr William Brown, Reader in 1570.

Mr William Simpson, Vicar in 1588.

Mr Robert Dunbar, Minister of Edinkillie and Ardclach in
1624 ; died in 1638.

Mr David Dunbar, ordained 8th June, 1637, to both parishes,
and translated to Nairn in 1638.

Mr Donald M'Pherson, ordained 1638, and translated to Calder
in 1642.

Mr George Balfour, ordained 1642; died 4th January, 1680.

Mr Patrick Grant, ordained 12th August, 1680 ; died Septem-
ber, 1715.

Mr John Duncansori, ordained 13th September," 1716, and
translated to Petty in 1728.

Mr William Barron, admitted 24th April, 1729; died Feb-
ruary, 1779.

Mr William Shaw, admitted 14th October, 1779, demitted 1st
August, 1780.

Mr Donald Mitchell, admitted 3rd May, 1781; died 22nd
June, 1811.

Mr Hugh Macbean, admitted 10th September, 1812; died
17th September, 1851.

Mr Colin Mackenzie, M.A., admitted as Colleague and Suc-
cessor, February, 1850; died 7th July, 1882.

Mr David Miller, B.D., inducted 2nd February, 1883.

Mr Henry Macleod, ordained and inducted 16th April, 1844 ;
died 19th February, 1876. (Free Church.)

Mr Alexander Macdonald, ordained and inducted 6th August,
1872. (Free Church.)

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 207

In Ardclach, as in most other parishes throughout the High-
lands, there was a worthy band of " Men " who occupied a moral
platform peculiarly distinct from that of the community in
general. From the depth and firmness of their convictions, they
were distinguished in their daily walk and conversation for
sobriety, prudence, and genuine piety. For social and business
customs they had no sympathy whenever these ceased to har-
monise with the approved beliefs and laws of Christian honour.

Their seasons of prayer — secret and domestic — were frequent,
beyond the rules of any prescribed routine, and though their own
estimate of personal spiritual attainments was never high, yet in
their lives, they conscientiously strove, as far as possible, "To
adorn the doctrines of God their Saviour in all things." Their
natural feelings regarding things human were kept so strictly
under control that neither the successes nor calamities of ordinary
life were seen to disturb, in any marked degree, the uniformity of
an almost passionless serenity. As a rule they had only a very
rudimentary knowledge of the branches of secular learning, but a
few individuals were wonderfully intellectual and refined, while
some among them were gifted even to the verge of genius.

Almost the only text books to be observed on their book-shelves
in addition to a " big ha' Bible," were the Confession of Faith,
and the Shorter Catechism, along with a few selected volumes
from the writings of the Puritan Divines. These they privately
studied with reverent care, and often read aloud from them one
or more judiciously chosen portions on the Sabbath evenings to-
their assembled households. Their expositions of Scripture
narratives were frequently solicited by admiring friends and
eagerly listened to. Sometimes their modes of expressing Bible
truths were so profound and terse that they were caught up and
treasured among the people as household words. Usually,
office-bearers in the Church, the "Men" were always
welcome in the sick room, but especially so at the bedside of the
dying. Endeavouring in every way to be living epistles of

208 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Christ, their services were well calculated to cheer and sustain
those who were weaker and less advanced in the experience of
things spiritual. As ordinary members of society, they were
liable to be misrepresented, and their enemies, indeed, sometimes
said that they were straight-laced, narrow-minded, and even
bigots, but they had to allow that the " Men " were at heart honest
and sincere— desiring to serve God up to the full light of their
conscience. Occasionally there may have been a hypocrite among
them, but a counterfeit character was so difficult to maintain in
such a virtuous environment that it was seldom successful for
any length of time.

When the nights were long, the " Men " often spent the evenings
in each others houses for mutual prayer and in friendly " celeidh."
Remembering that they were only " pilgrims and strangers "
here, the affairs of the present world with its trials and sorrows
occupied a very subordinate place, while their hopes and joys
respecting the future inheritance formed the chief topics of their
social intercourse. If, however, secular subjects chanced to be
inordinately introduced at any time, they were usually turned
with sanctifying ingenuity into holy emblems and spiritual
analogies.

According to the general custom of the time, the " Men," as
well as large numbers of church members and adherents, made it
a sacred duty to attend as many Communion services as possible,
both in their own and surrounding parishes. On all such occa-
sions they were everywhere cordially welcomed and hospitably
entertained by private friends, who generously made special
preparations for the purpose. Generally the " Men " tried to be
present on each of the five days, but in any case they seldom
failed to turn up at the Friday fellowship meeting, which was
regarded as peculiarly their own. Indeed, it was here that they
appeared to the beet advantage, as their energies found free issue
in their favourite field of experimental theology. Their chief
object was to cherish mutual comfort and consolation to their

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 209

hearers, but especially as to any who might be concerned or even
despondent with regard to their interest in the Kingdom of God.

Under the presidency of the local minister, who was often
assisted by a brother from another congregation, the meeting was
opened with praise and prayer in the usual way. Thereafter the
Moderator announced that they were prepared to hear any one
who might have a " question " to propose. In a few minutes the
opportunity was embraced, and some one from among the " Men "
rose and read a passage, over which he had probably been pondering
ior some days previously. He stated very briefly that he desired to
know from it the marks which distinguished the real from the
nominal follower of 'Christ. The Scripture text was then commented
upon by the presiding minister so as to indicate the true scope
and meaning thereof. The " Men " were then called upon suc-
cessively " to speak to the question," and after each had expressed
his views and experiences the minister again rose and summed up
all that had been said — approving, modifying, or enlarging
according as he might think necessary. Thereafter he made a
practical application of the whole, and concluded by asking the
one who proposed the " question " to engage in prayer. Then
after praise, the benediction was pronounced and the meeting
came to an end. Among the " Men " of Ardclach we remember
John Mackillican, Achagour ; John Kose, Lynechork; James
Kiach, Fornighty ; George Macdonald, Achavrate ; George Fraser,
Tachter ; Alexander Rose, Fleenasmore, and John Fraser, Little
Mill. These have all joined the majority and the only one now
alive (1900) who "companied" with these "Men" from a very
early period is Mr Alexander Mackintosh, Balville. In many
ways he is a most worthy representative of a class which we
regret to say will soon be known only from the pages of history.

Whilst admiring the beautiful scenery along the banks of the
Findhorn the stranger to this parish is apt to be struck with the
situation and quaint appearance of the little old Belfry which has
been erected on a low sandhill above the manse. Although the

210 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

inhabitants of the parish, even in the neighbourhood, know almost
nothing regarding its real history, yet the peculiarity of its
position is such that it is mentioned in most of the works of the
great writers on Scottish ecclesiastical architecture. According
to an old local tradition " it stands a mile abave the church."
Although this may not be absolutely correct from the latest
measurements, yet we believe it may safely be described as the
highest Belfry in Scotland.

Near the northern end of the adjoining ravine, by the edge of
the river, two hundred feet below, and at a distance of seven
hundred and sixty-four yards by the regular pathway, stands the
Parish Church on the edge of the glebe, from which, the Presby-
tery records inform us, the great Moray Flood of 1829 carried
away an acre. Hemmed in as it is on all sides by a series of
continuous elevations, no sound from a bell erected on the build-
ing itself could possibly be heard save in the immediate vicinity.
Hence the heritors of the period considering the peculiarities of
the situation wisely fitted it on the summit of the little neigh-
bouring Keep, where it could be heard tolling its peaceful chimes
in the quiet of a fine Sabbath morning over a large area of the
surrounding district. In the Presbytery records there is reference
to two bells— a big and a little one. The former is said to
have been a very superior article, but that it was torn down long,
long ago, and thrown into the river by a band of Lochaber rievers
and hopelessly lost.

Strange as it may appear, the Bell Tower does not stand on
Church land at all. There is no authority, so far as we can learn,
by which a Presbytery or heritors were ever empowered to erect
such buildings, and even if they had, it is evident that they could
only have done so on their own property. Accordingly it is sup-
posed to have been originally used as an estate prison, and that the
Laird of Lethen, who was the patron of Ardclach, and a staunch
Covenanter, allowed the Kirk Session to use the building, from
time to time, when it was not otherwise required, first as a place

THE BELL TOWER. 211

of confinement for the moral delinquents in connexion with the
congregation, and thereafter as a " bell house," on account of its
proximity and situation.

Externally it is a compactly built fourteen feet cube, with two
gables and covered by a slated roof — in fact, so far as it goes,
it is just a reduced copy of the ancient donjon so frequently met
with as the central stronghold of those early castles which were
erected in this country after the date of the Norman Conquest.
The summit of the southern gable has been coped with an open
granite Belfry, while the other terminates in an ordinary
chimney. Underneath the former, there is a carved stone bearing
the figures 1655, and one is curious to find out the event to which
they refer. Among the old people there was a pretty constant
tradition that the Bell Tower was once burned to the ground.
In support of this belief there is a statement in the " New
Statistical Account" that, after the battle of Auldearn in 1645,
the lands of Brodie of Lethen were over -run by the Marquis of
Huntly, who " Did utterlie burn the hail lands whereupon there
was above ye number of eight scoire persons, and left not ten of
them to remaine." Again, in 1654 the Earl of Glencairn "burnt
the corns and houses of Lethen." In these circumstances it is
scarcely possible to believe that the " prison-house " would be
allowed to escape in the general destruction. No doubt steps
would be taken as early as possible to have it restored, and the
date 1655 which is the year following, may, therefore, very pro-
bably refer only to that event.

Internally it consists of two apartments, one on the ground
floor, with a low entrance only three and a-half feet high,
and the other above. The upper chamber is reached by a
short stone stair, leading directly from the outside door, only
three feet nine inches in height, and is provided, for the comfort
of the guardian officer, with a fireplace, three single paned lights,
and a recess in the wall for a garderobe. In the event, however,
of an attack being made upon the place for the purpose, as may

212 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

be supposed, of rescuing from confinement some misguided paro-
chial transgressor, the means of defence afforded to the keeper
were, a strong door, barred from within, a set of iron stanchions
inside the windows, with three shot holes of simple construction
piercing the walls on two sides. One of these is placed on
either side of the fireplace already mentioned, and a third so
as to protect the only entrance which overlooks a steep descent
facing towards the east.

Above the chimney piece there is a nicely cut monogram of
three letters, M.C.B., believed to be the initials of Margaret
Clerk or Brodie, daughter of James Clerk of Balbirnie, in Fife-
shire. This lady was the first wife of Alexander Brodie, first
laird of Lethen.

The ground area is almost entirely occupied by a dreary
vaulted deri which has, no doubt, been used from time to time,
both as a baronial and church Keep in which the prisoner might,
indeed, move about freely enough in a bent position in utter
darkness through a small space some ten feet long by seven feet
wide, and about five and a half feet high at the centre of the
arch. From its elevated situation the Bell Tower may also have
been used as a place from which to watch the cattle rievers, who
were wont to make incursions along the Findhorn valley, either
to, or through, the parish. In the Spalding Club there is printed
a copy of a bond of blackmails, dated Nairnshire, 1st November,
1657, by which certain local gentlemen contracted in given
circumstances to protect their Lowland neighbours against the
freebooting of their Western countrymen.

Except as an indication of the zeal of the heritors and minister
of those days in the cause of religion, it is to be feared that the
maintenance of this quaint little pile as " a terror to evil doers,"
did not do much to restrain the various forms of crime and
immorality which were then so prevalent throughout the com-
munity. As a rule the local Kirk Sessions were chiefly occupied
in dealing with cases of heresy and backsliding, rebuking and

THE BELL TOWER. 213

excommunicating any noted offenders whose example they con-
sidered dangerous to the spiritual life of those resident within the
bounds. There is no reason to believe that punishment by means
of " the jougs " was ever exercised here, as in the neighbouring
parish of Cawdor, since no trace of this kind of pillory has ever
been discovered either at the Bell Tower or the door of the Church.
The following particulars are quoted from the records of the
Presbytery — 1st August, 1676, Margaret Taylor, having been
found guilty, was by order of the Presbytery " sent to the prison-
house at the church " of Ardclach. Again, thirty-one years later,
on the 30th March, 1707, James Stewart, for some reason which
is not very definitely stated, appeared before the Session, but
" Eefused either to tell the Session or to purge himself by oath
till he would get the author in this scandall as he alledges.
Therefore the Session has ordered two elders and the officer to-
put him in the steppell till he humble himself to the discipline of
the church."

By the middle of the same century the flow of enthu-
siasm which prompted the heritors to devote the little " prison-
house " to the service of the church appears to have considerably
subsided. For, in 1760, the Rev. Mr Barren 'submitted a list
of repairs necessary to be effected upon " the office-houses,
bell-house, and pulpit," which, it was admitted, were in a ruinous
condition, and elaborate steps were taken to have the expense
estimated. During the course of the following six years negoti-
ations, " as to what further was necessary for finishing the affair,"
were carried on from time to time between the Presbytery and
Heritors with every prospect of ultimate success. The result,
however, only strengthened the truth of the saying that " hope
deferred maketh the heart sick," For at the end of that long
period the minister, from his seat in the Presbytery, reported on
the 21st October, 1766, that "Nothing had been done to the
lattern, school, bell-house, or grass." Yet the good man does
not appear to have lost heart over the business, for there can be

214 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

little doubt that to his persistent efforts the parish is wholly
indebted for the preservation of this ancient and curious structure
— combining the character of Prison and Belfry, which so far as
known at present, appears to be unique in the Scottish field of
ecclesiastical architecture.

Let us now turn to a less authentic aspect of the story as it
has been handed down through the medium of an old and inter-
esting tradition. Long, long ago, when clocks and watches were
little known, except by name, in the rural districts of Scotland,
there was no small stir for weeks on end among the homely
parishioners of Ardclach when the heritors and minister of the
period decided to order a bell for the purpose of inviting their
fellow-worshippers at a regular hour to the House of Prayer.
The commission was entrusted to an eminent bell-founder in the
city of Edinburgh, and every care was taken to inform him that
they would only receive and pay for a first-class article. During
the time that the artisans were busily engaged in the preparation
of the various metals, a mysterious personage of commanding
appearance and gentlemanly bearing, walked into the workshop,
and, addressing the manager, inquired the nature of the business
which so much engrossed his attention. In reply, he was respect-
fully informed that they were about to cast an exceptionally fine
bell for the Parish Church of Ardclach. On hearing this the
stranger became still more interested in all the arrangements, and
having satisfied himself as to the genuine quality and due pro-
portions of the compound, he waited on until he saw the whole
reduced to a perfect state of fusion. Then quietly advancing to
the mouth of the furnace, he drew from his pocket a handful or
two of the sterling coins of the realm, and notwithstanding the
doubt which modern science throws on the wisdom of his
generosity, dropped them one by one — sovereign and shilling —
into the midst of the glowing metal. After attentively watching
the process of casting for a short time longer, he courteously
took his leave of the mastersmith, but without giving him any

THE BELL TOWER. 215

information which might afford the least possible clue either to
his name or status in society. Walking smartly out into the
street, he quickly disappeared among the passing crowd, leaving
his identity a matter of doubt and speculation to the present day.

In due course the bell was finished, sent to Ardclach, and
carefully hung in " the steppell." On trial it proved to be in the
highest degree satisfactory to all concerned, and without an equal
in any of the surrounding parishes. Not only could the rich
jowing of the splendidly toned metal be heard with great clear-
ness over the length and breadth of this extensive parish, but, we
are assured that the gladsome chimes, emitted on a fine Sabbath
morning were often distinctly heard in the good towns of Forres
and Grantown, more than eleven miles away. No wonder that
the parishioners were proud of their bell.

The inhabitants of this parish, however, lived in an age when

" The good old rule, the simple plan,
That they should take who had the power,
And they should keep who can,"

was in full force among the Celtic clans. The Lowland counties,
but particularly those situated like Nairn along the border line,,
were at all times open to the uncertain consequences of a sudden
foray from the Western Highlands. In connexion with these
fierce inroads the Cateran bands were wont to descend, at
irregular intervals, upon the rich pastures on the seaboard of the
Moray Firth, sweep them of their flocks and herds and boldly
drive them away to their own mountain fastnesses, or sell them
with all possible speed at the most convenient markets. In these
circumstances the people of Ardclach were in nowise exempted
from the general order of things. In fact, as the valley of the
Findhorn formed a pretty direct line of communication between
" the bonny land of Moray," where it was said that " every
1 gentleman ' was at liberty to lift his prey," and the south-west,
they required not only to be continually on their guard against
any sudden incursion from one or other of the predatory clans,
but at all times to hold themselves prepared to assume the

216 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

offensive for the purpose of protecting their own, or rescuing the
plundered bestial of any of their neighbours which might be in
course of transit through the parish. On all such exciting
occasions —

" The alarum was rung on the Bell Tower height,

And the Warning was spread around,
That a riever force of intrepid men
Was treading upon parish ground. "

To a canning and rapacious foe whose movements were intended
to be quick and decisive in the district, the result of this intima-
tion was often unfortunate and disappointing in the extreme.
In order, therefore, to place things on a better footing for the
time to come, it was resolved, on the part of a few of the readers,
to attack and destroy the bell-house on the first favourable
opportunity. Accordingly a small detachment of daring spirits
was told off, and sent down to the parish with instructions to
accomplish the deed at all hazards. Stealing along the bed of the
Findhorn they climbed the left bank of the river, and, at the dead
hour of one dark night, began the work of destruction. At no
small trouble and inconvenience to themselves, they at length
succeeded in displacing the fittings and to their great satisfaction
the bell dropt to the ground. The building was at once given
over to the flames and speedily reduced to a bare and blackened
skeleton, enclosing nought but a crackling mass of smouldering
ashes. Away then they hurled the bell, rolling and tumbling and
bumping down the brae and over the rock, dolefully chiming out
its own "coronach," until it reached the waters of the river,
where, in the dark pool at the foot of the crag,

" The bell sunk down with a gurgling sound,
And the bubbles rose, and burst around."

Here it lay for many a year, and might, long ere now, have
become entirely forgotten, were we not assured on the authority
of an ancient Tradition that, when the river descends in angry
flood, it may still be heard, by all those endowed with clairaudient
perceptions, rumbling about among the submerged boulders, and
breathing out as from time to time it chances to be driven

THE OLD MILL OF REMORE. 217

against the rocky masses, a few softly subdued and mystic tones
— a feeble imitation of those once clear and sonorous notes, the
like of which, the Legend as certainly affirms, may never again be
heard pealing among the hills and valleys throughout the parish
of Ardclach.

In the social economy of a period not so remote, the hand
quern was the chief instrument by which the common people in
this parish ground their corn, and prepared a very inferior kind
of meal. From the rude way in which the grain was dried, the
cakes were so dark that the name White Bread was a sufficient
-designation for some time after the introduction of wheaten
bread to distinguish the " aran caneach " or foggy loaf from the
rough bannocks generally used in the daily fare. As a matter of
course, the early meal mill, driven by a mountain torrent, with
all its curious movements — revolving and clanking from morn to
even — became a source of never-ending wonder, and sometimes
even dread, to the simple-minded spectators among the rural
population. No wonder then, if the miller who alone understood
and daily managed such a strange combination, was a personage
of no small consequence in the estimation of his regular cus-
tomers. By a few he was believed to be even somewhat
" uncanny," as being of necessity more or less versed in the
mysteries of the famous Black Art. So greatly did these rude
machines come into favour that Ardclach, in course of time, came
to possess a half dozen of them at least. Occasionally it happened
that one or other of these attained to a higher degree of
popularity and fame than the rest. This was chiefly to be
attributed to the many wonderful stories which were circulated
about them ; and these, in a great measure, depended on the
general shrewdness and force of character inherent in the miller
himself. In addition to this, a romantic situation together with,
perhaps, a comparatively greater complexity and strength of
machinery, helped to account for not a few of the strange things
which were reputed to have happened within the mill.

218 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

By the side of the Red Burn, at the bottom of a deep
sequestered ravine, on a level grassy spot, among birches, hazel,,
and dark frowning pine trees, there stood, fully a century ago,
one of these meal mills. In comparison with any of the present
day, the building was a small unpretending hut^ constructed of
rough hill stones intermingled with turf, enclosing a very simple
combination of mechanical power, and driven by means of the old
fashioned water-wheel now entirely out of date. As might be
supposed, its total capacity was not very great, but, notwith-
standing, the Mill of Remore was after all a very famous one.

In those days the houses were few in the vicinity, and there
were not many men — the miller excepted — who cared to pay a
visit to it after sundown. This was because there were nights,,
when it was certain that not a single human being was inside,
the mill might be heard grinding awa}' as busily as at anjr
time during the day. From the testimony of those who ventured
in the midnight darkness to approach within easy distance, w&
learn that glimpses of numerous tiny lights were frequently to
be seen passing and repassing behind the little hazy windows,
as if all were life and activity in the interior. The nocturnal
labourers, it was said, had their usual abode far ben among the
hidden recesses of Cairnbar, where they lived and carried on, in
a peculiar way, all the affairs of human life. Taking advantage,
however, of the miller's absence, they often left their secret
chambers and took possession of the building for their own
purposes. When the mill stopped before one o'clock, they all
returned laden with provision to the hill side, and re-entered by
a mysterious opening which again closed behind them, leaving no
trace of the roadway to ordinary human vision.

By and bye, one of these fairy creatures became more than
usually bold. In order that everything might be in readiness for
the midnight operations, it was in the habit of making its appear-
ance occasionally some hours previous to the miller's departure.
At these times it manifested great activity in supplying the fire

THE OLD MILL OF REMORE. 219

•with fresh fuel while he was engaged tidying up his day's work
in the other end of the mill. Its shape was that of a dwarfish
man of some four score and ten, with dark wrinkled features, and
bright piercing eyes, all aglow with rougish glee, but lithe and
agile in every limb and movement as a lively youth just entering
on his teens. Such intrusions became a source of considerable
inconvenience and even some little terror to the goodman himself,
and none the less so, when, after finishing its work it would sit
down before the fire to wait the arrival of its boon companions.
After pondering over this matter very carefully for some days he
at last decided to open a small hole in a suitable place behind the
11 ingle," where with his long corn rake in hand he would be able,
at the right moment, to act in secret with alacrity and effect.
Here, one night he accordingly took up his position in the hope of
being able to accord a warm reception to his old friend whenever
it might choose to put in an appearance. Nor had he long to
wait, for, in due course, he saw the fussy little pioneer, as on
former occasions, gliding about among the uncertain shadows of
the ever deepening twilight, and earnestly engaged at its usual
occupation. Having at length heaped on fuel to the utmost
capacity of the fireplace, it sat down on the warm hearth-stone
and fixed its eyes intently on the ruddy flames as they danced
and flickered above the kindling fire. Just when the burning
mass had risen to the highest degree of glowing heat, the miller
cautiously inserted the broad end of his rake, and, vigorously
scattering the blazing embers in all directions, he so completely
overwhelmed the eldritch creature that, quite bewildered and
terribly burnt, it danced and screamed through fear and intense
pain. The situation had become even now more than pleasantly
critical for the poor man, but when the mill door fell wide open
and the place began to fill up with a crowd of excited inquirers,
all flitting about in the obscure light of the apartment, and
manifesting the liveliest interest in the sad condition of their
frantic companion, the miller very naturally gave himself up for

220 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

lost. Nor did he do so without good reason ; for, although he
was able to gather but little from the confused babble of a
multitude of curious voices, yet he very clearly understood from
many a significant look and gesture that they were all engaged
in an earnest consultation as to the best means of inflicting an
adequate revenge. At last the din ceased, and his hope revived.
But when he saw himself the next moment surrounded by the
fiendish host, each of whom was gnashing its teeth in wild-
est rage, the miller naturally closed his eyes under the full
impression that he would never open them again in the present
world. Just as they were advancing, however, in one horrible
phalanx for the purpose of enclosing him in their united grasp, to
their great consternation a cock crew among the rafters of the
building overhead. Their spell was thereby instantly broken, and
in a few minutes more the entire gang, wholly baffled and dis-
enchanted, had totally vanished from the scene. For a time the
air felt thick and oppressive, but a dull wind rose and continued
to blow with " eerie sough," till the morning hours among the
pines and birches on the other side of the burn. In a short time
the miller had so far recovered his senses from a condition of fear
and astonishment that he was able by the light of the rising moon
to take a look round among the machinery and to his great
satisfaction found that he was unable to discover the least trace
of his late intruder or any of its gruesome companions, and from
that day to the present we are happily assured that none of the
shadowy race has ever again been seen either at the old mill of
Eemore, or in any other place in the parish of Ardclach.

In consequence of the physical irregularities which characterise
the general surface of the country in most parts of the North and
West Highlands of Scotland, we find, scattered in all directions, a
series of goodly sized lochs. In addition to these there is a still
greater number of smaller pools and dark mountain tarns which
are to be found stretching along the bottom of our larger glens,
or hidden far and away among the seclusions of the many ghowls

TRADITIONS. 221

and corries which lie high up in the bosom of the distant hills.
Among these, in bygone days, there was popularly supposed to
be found a terrible water animal : half beast, half demon, which,
in obedience to the vagaries of its own peculiar instinct, was
capable of transforming itself into a variety of forms. Two of
the favourite shapes in which it delighted to present itself to the
benighted wanderer among the upland wilds, were those of either
a horse or bull (An t' Each Uisge, 'san Tarbh Uisge) but on very
rare occasions as that of an awful hybrid combining the character
of a fearful serpent with that of a monstrous eel.

Although these water bulls were occasionally to be met with
in the less secluded lochs of the lower districts, yet, we are
informed that they often took up their abode in the secret
recesses of some dark rock-bound linn, formed in connection with
the tortuous windings of a goodly-sized mountain stream but
most likely of all in one of the numerous tarns — mossy, calm,
and unfathomable — which are situated far away among those
Alpine solitudes which are remote from the usual dwellings of
mankind.

At times during the hottest months of Summer a bewildered
traveller in these regions might now and again encounter a stray
individual on the margin of his favourite lake, fast asleep in the
enjoyment of a pleasant " siesta " in the genial warmth of the
noon-day sun. When in the humour for indulging this desire he
invariably chose a kindly hollow, sheltered and grassy, shelving
down to the water's edge, but always facing towards the south.
Many are the tales we have heard of those who had been for-
tunate enough to discover a Water Bull in this condition. Should
the awe-struck beholder manage to muster courage enough, steal
up unobserved, and snatch a few hairs from his shaggy mane ere
ever the brute had time to waken up and grasp his daring victim,
the feat, even though it might prove fatal, would be related, by
ardent believers for years to come, to the admiration and terror
of both old and young at many an eager fireside circle in the

222 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

surrounding district. Should the brave adventurer, however,
succeed in making good his escape in possession of this lucky
tuft, he would, henceforward, be destined to enjoy all the
happinesses of life — have plenty of money, be successful in love,
become the head of a large family of sons, and on every occasion
of war or feud, be sure to obtain the victory over his enemy.
But it was not less certain that any one who benefited for a time
by a voluntary contact with the Evil One in whatever form, was
equally sure to leave the world in connexion with some sudden
and awful calamity.

We are not to suppose that the Water Bull lived a life of
celibacy manifesting no sympathy whatever for his more civilised
congeners whose proper place of abode was on the land. In
the minds of many, there was not the least doubt that he
regularly wandered to some distance from his crystal-paved
retreats to interbreed, at the usual season, with one or more
of the domestic herds which were sent up by the farmers and
cottars from the lower districts to the hill shielings for their
Summer grazings. To the initiated these half demon hybrids
were easily enough distinguished. The peculiar characteristics
were said to have been two notched ears, a pair of soft leathery
dewlaps, the tail short and bushy, as well as a curiously brindled
tide, together with a clear aquatic spread of the fore and hind
legs, each of which, it was observed, terminated in a hoof
unusually black and glossy. They invariably carried the head
liigh above the level of the back-bone, while the eyes, which were
placed rather askance in the skull, were pearly bright and full
sized ; all which gave the animals much of a wild and scared-like
appearance.

An old tradition states that a farmer in Lynemore sometime
about the beginning of the last century one day discovered, among
the young of his Highland cattle, two calves of this breed, which,
as was to be expected, he became especially anxious to rear as
they looked so large, plump and high spirited. Accordingly he

TRADITIONS. 223

gave orders that they should be at once secured and put along
with the cows into the home park, and that every attention
should be paid to them during the time they were being nourished
on their mothers' milk. Thus, all went on well until weaning
time came round when the calves, in due course, were separated
from their dams and driven off to the nearest hill pasture. Next
day he noticed that they had become exceedingly restless and
increasingly fierce and fiery in all their movements. The farmer
immediately called out every one of his servants and ordered
them to drive home the stirks and see to it that they were safely
housed with all speed. The task, however, proved to be entirely
beyond the power of their united efforts, for, run as they might,
away the two creatures scampered across the moor, and over the
Aitnoch Hills with an excited squad of men and women in full
chase. The pursuit was maintained with breathless energy until
the calves arrived at Lochindorbh when the two brutes, which
showed no signs of fatigue, raised their tails to a right angle in
apparent delight at the appearance of the watery element, plunged
into the loch, and were never again seen or heard of.

In the parish of Ardclach there are two fairly sized lochs —
Beli vat and Boath — each of which enjoyed, in a bygone genera-
tion, a considerable notoriety in its own locality as providing a
solitary retreat for one of those dreadful amphibians. The
Belivat Water Bull was an embodiment of no mean character*
His shape, says the legend, was in general that of a greatly over-
grown ox, black as ebony, with cloven hoofs, long spreading
horns, and notched ears. In addition to the roots and leaves of
the water lily, he fed upon the rough sedges and other kinds of
aquatic plants to be found on, or near, the margin of the loch. At
times when his pastures had become more than usually bare, he
has been heard by the good people of Holly Bush on the opposite
brae of Cairnbar, giving vent to his distress in fearful midnight
bellowings, which roused the echoes of the hills for miles and
miles around. On these occasions he was known to be par-

224: A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ticularly fierce and dangerous, and would often wander to
considerable distances from the loch in search of a meal of
human flesh to allay the gnawing cravings with which he was
tortured in such trying circumstances.

Once upon a time, in connexion with an experience of this kind,
when he was suffering from more than an ordinary scarcity, the
Water Bull left his natural element early one lovely afternoon
in the shape of a beautiful, sleek, and docile horse, all ready
saddled and bridled, and waylaying a band of children on their
way across the moor, succeeded in attracting their attention and
thereafter inducing them to leave the right path and run up to
him. Catching hold of him by the bridle, they were rather
inclined for a little to doubt from his beautiful appearance the
reality of their good fortune, but finding the animal in every way
so gentle and accommodating, a few of the boys, very naturally,
resolved to get on his back and enjoy a pleasant ride. Nor did
they find that this familiarity on their part was in any way to be
resented by their new and tractable friend. To their great
delight they found that he was likely to behave himself in every
way to their entire satisfaction. By and bye, in the course of a
lively canter over the moor, he cunningly contrived to approach
the edge of a dark mossy tarn, believed to be not only of un-
fathomable depth but at the same time connected by means of
some mysterious subterranean passages, with the lowest abysses
in the loch of Belivat, which lies in the immediate vicinity.
Making a sudden deflection towards this secret entrance, he
boldly sprang into the lakelet, and immediately sank with his
precious burden beneath the surface of the liquid element, and no
doubt devoured their lifeless bodies one by one at his leisure.
The lamentation on all hands, as might have been expected over
such a sad catastrophe, was both vehement and distressing, and
the black pool, in corroboration of the truth of the tradition, is
to this day occasionally referred to by the older inhabitants as
the Children's Loch.

COCK FIGHTING. 225

Cock-fighting is a very old as well as an exceedingly cruel
sport. It is believed to have been introduced into England by
the Romans nearly two thousand years ago, when it at once
became highly popular among all classes of the community over
the country. From the earliest records we find that the pastime
was a gre.at favourite with school boys, and frequently patronised
even by princes and kings themselves. In later times it was
annually observed in connexion with the religious festival of
Shrovetide or " Brose Day," as it was called in Scotland ; being
one of those indulgences or licensed amusements permitted by
the Church, to the faithful within her pale, before entering upon
the penitential period of Lent. Great interest was specially
manifested among the lads in the various parishes as the day
approached, and every preparation was made in order that the
great fighting match might be as complete as possible in all its
details. During the whole of the previous week, the boys were
chiefly occupied in scouring the district for cocks ; settling for the
election of the two opposing leaders ; and at the same time
endeavouring to decide under whose banner they were themselves
to appear. In the celebration of this barbarous sport Ardclach
formed no exception to the general rule for many a year. Under
the incumbency of the late Mr Falconer, who was parochial school
master from 1790 to 1837, cock-fighting, we are glad to say, was.
discontinued in his school much earlier than in some of the
neighbouring parishes, although it was practised to a considerably
later date in the Society School at Fornighty.

On the morning of the great day, the boys might be seen
eagerly wending their way towards the scene of action, each
youth carrying at least one bird, while the leaders were expected
to bring up a number somewhat in accordance with the social
standing of their parents in the district. When all had assembled
.the scholars entered the schoolroom, which had been previously
prepared, and proceeded to arrange themselves with their re-
spective " captains," on opposite sides of the building under the

226 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

presidency of the schoolmaster himself, who levied a small fee for
each bird, and on these occasions invariably acted as an absolute
umpire in cases of dispute.

One to one the cocks were pitted against each other in
fierce and mortal combat, and as either fell exhausted, or
fled from the conflict, its place was immediately supplied by a
fresh bird from the contingent of the losing party. Thus the
struggle went on for hours until the last unbeaten cock remained in
possession of the blood-stained floor. The " captain " of the side
to which it belonged was thereupon acknowledged victor, and in
the parish of Cawdor the conquering fowl, in most cases all torn
and clotted, which had been the means of obtaining for its master
such a distinguished honour, was itself impressed to share the
dignity of the occasion by having affixed on its poor lacerated
head a small crown, now in Cawdor Castle, bearing the proud
title, " Kex Gallorum."

In many of those encounters, not a few of the birds were found
to decline the contest altogether and chose to effect a disgraceful
retreat, in the vague belief, no doubt, that " They who fight and
run away, may live to fight another day." In this particular
warfare, however, the Fates had pronounced against the principle,
for the vain subterfuge, in their case, proved only a " Leap from
the frying-pan into the fire," as the schoolmaster had not only
the benefit of picking up the carcasses of the slain birds but
the privilege of confiscating for his own use, the whole of the
" fugies," as they were contemptuously called. In some parishes,
although happily, so far as we have been able to learn,
not in Ardclach, these were again subjected in due course
to the heartless doom of being tied with a piece of string
to a stake driven into the playground, and thrown at, with
short clubs, until the victim was either killed outright or so
completely maimed that it became incapable of exciting the
passions of the unfeeling youths who were glorying over the sad
scene.

COCK FIGHTING. 227

The origin of this latter sport is entirely lost in the dark ages
of the past. The Legend, however, accounts for it on this
wise : — During the period when the Danes ruled in England, the
Saxons were held in a state of abject slavery and groaned under
the tyranny of their foreign masters. In one of the towns, the
inhabitants after consultation resolved to make a bold attempt
for freedom. A dozen of their bravest men were chosen, and
volunteered to repair secretly to the town house on a dark Winter
night, endeavour to overpower the guard, and seize the weapons
which were stored in the armoury. Thereafter, on a preconcerted
signal the patriotic party were to issue from their huts and fall
upon the invaders. No sooner had the men succeeded in enter-
ing the building than the noise disturbed the cocks which were
roosting among the rafters overhead, and a loud crowing was the
result. This unusual commotion alarmed the watchmen, who
instantly beat to arms, secured the conspirators and forthwith
had them all put to death. Years after, when the Danes had
been driven from the country, the townsmen, remembering the
sad disaster, are said to have invented the diversion of throwing at
the cocks in the manner referred to, in revenge for the hard
bondage entailed upon their fellow-countrymen on account of the
ill-timed crowing in the guard house.

The day's proceedings were usually wound up at the home of
the victor, where the lads expected to receive a liberal entertain-
ment in the form of a supper and ball at his own expense in
honour of the event. For weeks afterwards the gallantry of the
brave birds which had succeeded in vanquishing the greatest
number of opponents, and were the most severely wounded and
torn up at the moment of victory, formed the favourite subject
of endless exciting narratives by the boys and their friends both
in the school and over the parish.

Several attempts were made from time to time to put down
cock-fighting, but it lingered on until a late period in many parts
of the country. It was, however, finally prohibited in 1849

228 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

under severe penalties contained in Act of Parliament 12 and 13
Viet. c. 92.

Of the many finely wooded hollows which occur at intervals
along the Findhorn, there are few whose picturesque seclusion
will bear the least comparison with that beautiful spot on the
left bank consecrated, we believe, long before the Scottish Re-
formation as the Burying Ground of Ardclach. The immediate
surroundings present a very harmonious combination of woodland,
crag, and grassy slope, while the calm repose is pleasantly relieved
by the sound of the rushing stream over its stony channel towards
the sea.

The soil is the best for all practical purposes that could be
desired. It is a dry alluvial deposit of a small prehistoric lake,
laid down ere yet the river current had succeeding in cutting a
passage for itself through the rocky barrier on the north side of
the church.

After erecting a place of worship in early Christian .times, the
patrons always endeavoured to obtain the remains of some noted
saint. It was considered highly meritorious to have them interred
within the choir area, or, if possible, under the altar itself. Thus
it came to pass that a strong desire would gradually spring up in
the minds of the living, but especially the dying, to have their
ashes laid to rest beside those who were believed to be eminent
for piety and good works. It is, therefore, to the extension of
this practice that we are able to trace the origin of all our
churchyards.

There appears to be no difference of opinion, in this country,
as to the position which a corpse ought* to occupy when placed in
the grave. To await the dawn of a glorious day the remains are
invariably laid on the back in the attitude of restful sleep, and so as
to lie in a line running directly parallel with the length of the
church, the head, if possible, towards the west and the feet point-
ing to the east. This custom is said to have arisen from a free

THE BURYING GROUND. 229

interpretation of two Scriptural passages having a distinct reference
to Christ's second coming :— (1) " His feet shall stand in that day
upon the Mount of Olives which is before Jerusalem on the east,"
and (2) " For as the lightning cometh out of the east and shineth
even unto the west, so shall the coming of the Son of Man be."

The first Protestant Church, founded about the middle of the
seventeenth century, still stands in the centre of God's acre
with the tombs of many departed generations, all quietly sleeping
under the sacred shadow of its grace. Simple and unassuming
though the exterior may be, it is far more in accordance with the
romantic surroundings than any pseudo-Gothic structure could
possibly be.

From the gateway onwards by the left side of the footpath,
there runs a long narrow strip of ground apparently quite
neglected, and distinguished only by the melancholy characteristic
that it is entirely devoid of even the humblest memorials. This
is the Strangers' Area, and contains the mortal remains of several
homeless pilgrims, who, after finding their way into the parish
were suddenly arrested by the Last Enemy and lay down to die
without a known friend to cheer or soothe them in the last hours
of their earthly suffering. One we saw interred here was a poor
mendicant Jew — Joseph Hamil by name — mayhap, born in the
Promised Land, and brought up among those hills, valleys, and
scenes with which we associate memories the most sacred on
earth. Not satisfied, we may rest assured, with his native
prospects, he parted hopefully from his nearest relatives as well
as most intimate acquaintances, and set out with a light heart
into the wide, wide world in search of fortune and happiness.
As he journeyed onward, many and varied, no doubt, were his
successive experiences, but all his most cherished schemes only
ended in privation, loss, and chilling disappointment. At length
losing all self-respect, he adopted begging as a last resource, and,
with no desire to return, he wandered on farther and farther from
the land of his birth. On his way through this parish, his feeble

230 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

frame suddenly gave way, and sinking down on the lonely moor,
he yielded his spirit in a foreign country without a hand to help,
or friend to console him in the last moments of anguish and
suffering. In a few days the poor remains were accidentally
discovered, and hastily conveyed by dutiful, but unsympathetic
officials to the Strangers' Nook. Here, they were laid to rest
beside other unfortunates whose unknown histories were only
different in minor detail. Scarcely had the formal ceremony been
finished than the deceased was forgotten, and left to sleep in
neglected oblivion among the noteless dead till the morning of
the Great and Final Day.

Another blank space close by the outside foundation of the
church, marks the area formerly set apart for the interment of
any unbaptised children. These social waifs were popularly
referred to as the " Tarrans." Poor things, the world gave them
a very cold reception. Buried after sunset in this secluded
corner, the parishioners confidently believed that it would be all
but impossible for any Christian people to inadvertently stray
across their unhallowed remains. Such an occurrence would
have been considered a terrible calamity. It was enough to be
told that their forlorn apparitions had occasionally been seen,
but oftener heard, in the adjoining woods on stormy nights, sadly
bewailing the unfortunate condition of their hapless lot.

Throughout the remaining area, the ground is thickly set with
tombstones of various pretensions, but none sufficiently striking
to merit any special notice, either on account of their design, or
the delicacy of their execution. In several instances the graves
are simply indicated by a green turfy mound, or rude head stone
imperfectly lettered. Few of the lichen-incrusted memorials
appear to have been inscribed with anything beyond the age and
initial letters of the names of the deceased, whose long forgotten
existence they thus struggle to commemorate. One table-stone
of the eighteenth century is decorated with a few common-place
symbols of mortality — an hour-glass, two winged angels, a skull,

LOCHINDORBH. 231

a coffin and a spade, as well as a couple of human femurs placed
crosswise. Nothing of an epitaphian nature occurs, and the
inscriptions are destitute of any special interest to the casual
visitor. They are all concise, but frequently bear strong
testimony to a useful and blameless life on the part of the de-
ceased. From them we learn that the sleepers in general resided
as tenants, or agricultural labourers, within the parish. But one
event happened to every one. After performing their respective
duties with more or less credit, and figuring for a few short
years among their fellows, they all died and were gathered to
their fathers. As a rule, the remains were followed to the grave-
yard by not a few sorrowing relatives and neighbours. The last
resting places of the well-to-do were marked by the most durable
stone in the district, and the hallowed spots for a longer or
shorter period continued to be cherished, and visited from time
to time as circumstances would permit. Sooner or later, however,
the memory of even the most dearly beloved is altogether for-
gotten, and every trace of their existence, except in few cases,
perishes from the community.

The Castle of Lochindorbh, now in ruins, is situated on a small
island less than an acre in extent in the Loch of this name. The
larger water area lies chiefly in the parish of Cromdale, while on
the western side, the remainder trends for a short distance into
Edinkillie. From end to end the surface measures slightly over
two miles by about three quarters of a mile at the greatest
breadth. In general the water is rather shallow, but the dip is
considerably more than the average as we approach the Castle.

All around, the landscape is monotonous, tame and disappoint-
ingly dreary. A mountain tarn shaded with dark frowning pines,
and overhung by rough beetling crags, is grand and impressive,
but here there is neither precipice, rock, nor steep bank, simply
the brown undulating moorland stretching gradually upwards
towards the base of the neighbouring hills. Lying amid this

232 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

uninterrupted quiet, it reflects at the present moment no other
image than that of the sky overhead, and only presents on its
unruffled waters a tinge of the dullest mossy hue. Thus, though
there is little that is picturesque or striking about the environ-
ment of this lonely spot, yet most visitors after a Mttle experience,
come to enjoy the scene, and drink in health from the tonic
mountain breezes. The Castle itself, either from a historical or
antiquarian point of view, is an object of the greatest interest.
It would appear to have been a development of the still older
Castle Roy in Abernethy.

The date of its erection, however, has never been ascertained,
nor do ancient records throw any light on the founder's name.
Tradition, indeed, tells of a wooden structure, perhaps in the form
of a rude crannoge or log peel, as having originally occupied the
site of the present Castle, but no remains have ever been dis-
covered to indicate the likelihood of such an early lake dwelling.
For centuries before, arid even after the Castle comes into view,
the whole district round the Loch formed one continued pine
forest as dark and wild as the most gloomy imagination could
well picture.

At a very early period, however, the Comyns of Badenoch held
a great part of the Northern Highlands with Lochindorbh as
a chief stronghold. The family claims to be descended from
Charlemagne, and derives their name from the ancient house of
de Comines, near Lille, on the French Border. When the Norman
Invasion took place in 1066, A.D., one branch elected to follow
the great Conqueror, and under his influence soon rose to eminence
and power, both in England and Scotland. In the year 1230,
A.D., a Comyn was Lord of Badenoch, and we find him frequently
taking up his abode in this all but invincible fastness. Here, the
semi-barbarous Chief in the plenitude of his unquestioned suprem-
acy administered with a red hand those terrible powers of barony
and regality by which the Royal authority, in the Highlands,
was at times practically superseded. On the death of the infant

LOCHINDORBH. 233

Scottish Queen, the Maiden of Norway, the Black John Comyn
became a candidate for the Throne, as being descended from the
old Celtic dynasty of King Duncan, through the daughter of his
son Donald-bane. Comyn accepted the oaths offered to him by
Edward I. — " The Longshanks " of English history — acknow-
ledging him as Feudal Superior of Scotland. After Baliol was
appointed to wear the vacant Crown, Comyn seems to have retired
in disgust from public life and died soon after at Loehindorbh
about the year 1300, A.D.

Hearing that his troops had been defeated in the north, Edward,
in the exercise of his obstinate will, resolved to invade the rebel
territory, and extend his iron rule from Berwick to John 0' Groats,
Meantime, Sir John Comyn had succeeded to the Loehindorbh
estates, and become the popular Regent. Though aided in this
capacity by Wallace and other patriots, he was unable to collect
a sufficient force to meet the enemy in the open field. The
English army, therefore, was practically unopposed in its advance
through the kingdom, and its progress was marked with blood-
shed and heartless devastation, at every step. The country lying
in the line of his march was deserted by the terrified inhabitants,
who fled to the mountains, forests, and inaccessible morasses over
the Highlands. On his way north, the Lord of Loehindorbh and
his cousin, the Earl of Buchan, meeting the King, had a private
interview with him, and demanded that their other estates which
had been unjustly bestowed upon English nobles, should be
restored. Their propositions were treated at once with an
unceremonious refusal, and in consequence Edward and the
Scottish barons parted in great wrath. Finding themselves
unable to make any headway against the Royal power, they each
retired to their respective strongholds, where they resolved to
defend themselves to the bitter end. On the 25th of September,
1303, A.D., Edward arrived at Loehindorbh Castle from Kiriloss
Abbey, where the monks, in the hope of substantial favour, gave
His Majesty an entertainment such as became their distinguished

234 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

visitor. His object was, by carrying the war into the country of
the Corny ns, to crush them, and bring others of the nobility into
due subjection. Having captured their chief fastness, the King
found himself in a convenient position to despatch troops from
his victorious army to overrun Badenoch and the adjacent dis-
tricts. During his sojourn of nine days, not a few of the vanquished
Chieftains presented themselves before him at the Castle, and on.
bended knee did homage for their estates.

The King and his Court devoted the intervals of public business
to his favourite pastime of hunting, for which the district afforded
ample opportunity. In view of this exciting sport, he had brought
with him from England several packs of deer and wolf hounds.
Spending the day in the great forest, the Royal party, usually
bearing heavy bags, returned at night to their island retreat, No*
sooner was the King descried on his way down the adjacent
wooded slopes than all in the Castle became astir with bustle and
excited clamour. Boats were immediately despatched to the
opposite shores, while the dull battlements and watch-towers were
anon lit up with fir torches on every side. Reflecting their
gloomy shadows on the dark surface of the Loch, the whole scene
was wild and weird in the extreme. Hungry and fatigued with
the day's hunting, the nobles and higher state officials assembled
with all possible speed in the great hall, and under the presidency
of Edward partook of a splendid feast, listening the while to
the minstrels who struck their harps and sang of love, chivalry
and war. The proud Monarch, who sat in pomp and pride, where
nettles and cow-parsley now grow, was the Conqueror of Wales,
the Terror of France and the Scourge of Scotland. But " Old
times are changed, old manners gone," and a melancholy silence
has succeeded to music and dancing, and the screech owl alone is
heard, where the voice of joy and boisterous mirth resounded
under the banner of England as it waved in the chill mountain
breeze. The common soldiery, doomed to a harder fate, were
less carefully provided for. Pitching their rude huts by the

LOCHINDORBH. 235

water's edge, or sheltering themselves as best they could among
the neighbouring pines, they nightly lit up, for their cheerless
comfort, a thousand camp fires, which, sparkling and flickering in
the gloomy darkness, chequered the margin of the Loch with an
inconstant fringe of ruddy light.

During the stirring times which followed, this Fortress is
occasionally mentioned in history. There is reason to believe
that Edward greatly strengthened the defences, if he did not even
rebuild the Castle, between the years 1303, and 1306, A.D. The
ramparts cover the whole island, which seems to be chiefly com-
posed of gravel and shingle. The masonry, which is believed to
have been originally three storeys high, is built of granite, whin-
stone, and slate from the neighbouring hills, indicating an
immense expenditure of time and money. It presents no trace
of Norman architecture, nor, indeed, has any been observed among
the early castles in Scotland. The oldest baronial remains show
a style rather midway between the Classical and the Gothic.
The ruins, which still exist, suggest to the mind a grim old
Strength of the same type as that of Bothwell and Kildrummie.
Like them the walls are blind on the outside, cemented with
" grout," or run lime, and are more than seven feet thick. In form,
Lochindorbh is an irregular quadrilateral, defended by a strong
bell -shaped tower at each of its four angles. One only now
remains. The curtain walls, which are tolerably entire, run down
to the water's edge, if not even stretching into it on the south
and partly on the east side. These are probably Edwardian
additions, and it is curious to notice that on one side there is a
strong arched portcullissed door leading to a large inclosure which
had no ground communication with the Castle itself. By this
means the whole of the island was so occupied that an attacking
enemy could find no place on which to land, while such an
arrangement, in time of peace, afforded ample space both for
cattle and stores. In the event, however, of a body of men being
rash enough to force an entrance, they would have quickly found

236 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

themselves in a death trap with no means of escape, and wholly
at the mercy of the garrison within. Every port, window, or loop-
hole, has the lintels, mouldings and facings of freestone, which must
have been carried from the seaboard somewhere between Nairn
and Forces. The principal gateway, which now appears as a
large breach in the wall, was a pointed arch after the English
style. It, too, contained a portcullis, but there was no barbican or
flanking towers. From the insular position, as well as close
proximity to the water, these defences were considered unneces-
sary. During the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries,
the Loch was a perfect security. No artificial fosse was at all to
be compared to the wet ditch with which it was, and is still
surrounded. Within the enclosed area at the east end of the
Chapel, on the south side, is the usual dungeon keep— a square,
strong erection with a round tower at one end. Here, many a
poor captive has pined and groaned. Lying on a bed of heather
or bracken, in this dark, loathsome cell, the prisoner's sufferings,
were often embittered by hearing sounds of mirth and revelry
prolonged far into the midnight hours. The great hall was, no
doubt, built entirely of wood, as was the case in most of the
castles during that period. According to custom the interior
was hung round with armour, and adorned with numerous
trophies of the chase.

The Water Pit Vault may still be seen grinning with open
mouth in the west wall and dipping well into the surrounding
Loch. It was, we may be well sure, a horrible dungeon, where
many a poor, miserable wretch, after suffering a short confinement,
has passed gladly away into the eternal world. Like an ordinary
draw-well, it originally descended as far under the level of the
Loch as to leave about three feet of water over its paved bottom.
The only entrance was by a narrow aperture from the adjoining
court-yard, into what appeared to be no more than a small recess
covered with large flags on the floor. By raising one of these as
a trap-door, the spectator was able to look down several feet

LOCHINDORBH. 237

through the dim shadows into the dreary vault below. From the
upper chamber, the unhappy victim was lowered by a sturdy
warder into the obscure depths beneath ; always to shiver, and
often to freeze, while standing thigh deep among the water. Shut
up in such a dank hole must have been torture in its most
refined stage. The prisoner could only stand ; any other position
being certain death by drowning.

To a visitor approaching Lochindorbh, the walls, now covered
with lichens, present a yellowish tint, and seem from the low
foundation on which they rest to spring immediately out of the
surrounding Loch. As a Royal Fortress, it was erected with the
view of being able to resist a lengthened and determined siege.
Though strong in war, it was a dull and lonely place of abode in
peace. Buried in the heart of a boundless forest, far away among
the pathless hills, in a broad and cheerless lake, men looked upon
it as all but impregnable to ordinary military tactics. During the
fourteenth century, indeed, it rivalled in extent, and in the
strength of its defences any of the national castles over the
country.

During the interregnum which followed the death of the Maid
of Norway in 1290, the Red John Comyn was one of the Wardens
or Governors of Scotland, and for a time greatly distinguished
himself by his gallant resistance to the English claim. At a
conference which took place in Stirling Castle, he entered into an
agreement with Robert the Bruce to place him upon the throne.
Suspected of betraying their plan to Edward, Comyn fell under
the dagger of Bruce before the High Altar in the Church of the
Minorite Friars at Dumfries on the 4th of February, 1306 A.D.
Two months afterwards, Bruce was crowned at Scone and the
Lord of Badenoch having revolted, Lochindorbh, as well as his
other estates, were forfeited to the nation. In the struggle which
followed, to avenge the murdered Earl, the power of the Comyns
was effectually broken after the battle of Inverury in 1308, and
the name of this great house so utterly sank into obscurity that,

238 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

in the words of a contempory Chronicle, " There was no memorial
left of it in the land, save the orisons of the monks of Deer,"
whose monastry had been founded by William Comyn, Earl of
Buchan, in 1219 A.D.

Sir Andrew Moray of Petty and Bothwell wag a faithful friend
of Bruce's party, and by it was more than once elected Regent of
Scotland during the minority of David II. For a time, Comyn
the Earl of Athole, held the same office under Baliol in the
English interest. Kildrummie Castle, near the head of the Don,
was one of the four fortresses which stood out for the King.
This nobleman laid siege to it while under the charge of Lady
Christian Bruce, sister of Robert, and wife of Sir Andrew Moray.
Her husband, with a considerable force, hastened to relieve its
heroic defender. A severe struggle took place in a neighbouring
wood, where the Earl was defeated and slain under a great oak
tree, and his followers put to flight. His widowed Countess, now
in great alarm, immediately fled with her infant son and heir, for
safety to Lochindorbh Castle. Thither, Sir Andrew pursued her,
but as the place could not be easily taken, he encircled the Loch,
and tried in vain to batter down the walls with heavy missiles
thrown across the lake from the nearest shore. The spot on the
south east bank where the besiegers directed their engines
against the ramparts is still pointed out. Hearing from the poor
Countess herself of this terrible state of affairs, Edward III.
started from Perth at the head of an army twenty thousand
strong, and pushed on to rescue the captive at Lochindorbh. In
these circumstances, the brave Sir Andrew was too prudent to
risk a conflict with such a force, but he did not move his troops
until the English were close upon him, and all his outposts driven
back. In a great panic, the soldiers pressed him to order a retreat
"There is no need for haste," replied the Regent calmly, and
being about to hear mass, would not permit his devotions to be
hindered. At length, when his equerries had brought out his
horse, and every one expected that the march was to begin, he

LOCHINDORBH. 239

turned with great coolness to see that all the girths were tight and
secure. When buckling on his armour, one of the thongs chanced
to break, but he leisurely took a skin from his baggage, cut a
suitable strap and, with his own hand, mended the fracture.
Then arraying his men in close column he mounted his charger,
entered the forest by a well-known road, and retired along the
Findhorn until they came to Sluie, where they forded the river
by a secret pass and were again safe under the ramparts of
Darnaway Castle. Baffled with all his followers to get on his
track, Edward returned to Lochindorbh, and, to the great joy of
the distressed Countess and her son, bore them away in his train
to England. No sooner had the enemy gone south, than the
Regent appeared upon the scene and captured many of the castles
which Edward had garrisoned, with Lochindorbh among them.
Sir Andrew died in his own castle at Avoch, on the Moray Firth,
in 1338, while the war was still raging on all sides. He was a
good patriot and a great loss to his country.

For a short time this Highland Fortress seems to have been
used as a state prison and confined, at least, one personage of
national importance. William Bulloch was a warlike churchman
of unknown parentage, but possesed of great military talent.
Under Edward Baliol, the vassal king, he was appointed Chamber-
lain of Scotland and Governor of the Castles of St. Andrews and
Cupar. In this capacity he was greatly trusted by the English
party. A year or two before his death, Sir Andrew Moray laid
siege to the Castle of Cupar, then defended by Bulloch, but finding
it impossible to make any impression on the Stronghold, he was
obliged to raise the siege. Soon after, however, for an adequate
consideration, Bullock was induced to sell himself to the Scots,
and deliver up the Castle of Cupar. Such a transaction was ill
calculated to maintain implicit confidence in his future official
integrity under Sir Andrew Moray's government. In course of
time, fearing that he had, for selfish reasons, again entered into
secret communication with his English friends, the Regent accused

240 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

him of treason, and ordered him to be deposed from his high
office Immediately thereafter he was thrown into the dungeon
keep at Lochiadorbh, where he was soon forgotten, and ultimately
allowed to die of starvation and neglect.

Shortly after the death of Sir Andrew Moray, the Castle
became the property of the Crown. In recognition of some
important national service David II. bestowed the forest of
Lochiridorbh upon Symon Reed, his Constable of Edinburgh
Castle, on condition that he would deliver to the King as Feudal
Superior three arrows at Inverness, whenever they might be
wanted. The terms appear easy enough, yet the estate does not
seem to have remained long in the Constable's possession. Robert
II. ascended the throne in 1371 A.D., and among his first acts we
find him conferring by Royal Charter the Lordship of Badenoch,
as well as the Castle, Forest and Land of Lochindorbh upon his
fourth son, Alexander Stewart — " In the same manner as the
deceased John Comyn and his predecessors had held the same."

In History, this nobleman is styled the Earl of Buchan, but
from the savageness of his nature, he is better known in the north
as the Wolfe of Badenoch. Few young men were ever better
provided with lands and lordships, both by marriage and Royal
Charter, than he was. Yet, notwithstanding his wide domains,
he speedily quarrelled with the Bishop of Moray that he might
obtain more. As Lord of Badenoch he insisted that all the
Church lands in that province, were held under him. Refusing
to own a superior, the Bishop was summoned to appear at the
Standing Stones of Easter Kingussie. As might be expected, the
finding of the Judges was in favour of the Earl. In return the
Bishop threatened the censure of the Church upon any one who
should venture to enforce the decreets of Court. Next day, in
presence of a large company of local gentlemen, the Bishop and
Wolfe of Badenoch met in Ruthven Castle. Here, the discussion
was renewed, and angry words were freely passed between both
parties. At length his Lordship was persuaded to drop the claim,

LOCHINDORBH. 241

and in proof of good faith in this agreement, all the documents
relative to the process were immediately committed to the flames.
Thus far, all seemed right. But in his domestic capacity the
Lord of Badenoch was unprincipled, heartless and cruel. He ill-
treated his wife, the Countess of Ross, who was forced, on that
account, to leave him. In her absence, he became enamoured of a
woman named Mariota Athyn, who lived with him on the most
intimate terms for many years. By her he had five illegitimate
sons, each of whom in a high degree, inherited the reckless
impetuosity and lawless violence of his father's character. At
last, the Church was invoked to interfere on behalf of his lawful
wife — a proceeding which exasperated the Wolfe of Badenoch in
a terrible manner. Disregarding the bargain in Ruthven Castle,
he seized the Church lands, and, in consequence, was excom-
municated at the High Altar by the Bishop of Moray from the
" Holy Mother Church, to be cut off, like a rotten and diseased
branch, to fall headlong into the Pit, there to be consumed by
eternal fire."

When this anathema was announced to the Earl at Lochin-
dorbh by an accredited monk from Elgin, the cleric was at once
ordered to be arrested and thrown into the Water Pit Vault,
where he remained for some hours. Furious with rage the
Wolfe, having matured his plans, sallied out from his stronghold
in May, 1390, and, at the head of a fierce band rode, by way of
Darnaway, to Forres, and reduced the manse of the Archdeacon
to ashes. This done, he next set fire to one end of the church,
which shared a similar fate. Just as he and his incendiaries were
about to mount their horses and gallop to the hills, they heed-
lessly fired one or two of the adjacent houses. These tenements
being chiefly composed of wood and roofed with thatch, blazed
up with such vehemence that the conflagration threatened for
some time to embrace the whole town.

Nor was this all. The Wolfe, still burning with rage, vowed
that the Bishop must be bearded in his own den. One night,

242 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

therefore, a few weeks later in June of the same year, the
burghers of Elgin had just retired to rest at the usual time, and
the echoes of the Vesper Hymn had scarcely died away within
the long aisles of the venerable Cathedral when a band of armed
horsemen from Lochindorbh was heard entering, the town on the
west side. From the drawn windows along the main street they
were noticed to pull up near the College, and in a short time the
whole city was moved to its very centre with shouts of " Fire !
Fire ! The Wolfe ! The Wolfe !" This name alone was enough
to strike terror into the heart of every man, woman, and child, to
its utmost bounds. Anon, the towers and spire of the Cathedral
were observed to be wrapt in one devouring blaze, while the
interior was lighted up with a brilliant sheet of dazzling flame.
The church of St. Giles, the Maisondieu, together with eighteen
manses of the Canons, in a few hours showed only as blackened
skeletons in the dark uncertain gloom. This terrible deed was
the work of a raving maniac, and an act of purest vandalism for
which no earthly punishment could adequately atone.

Heedless of the misery inflicted on the innocent people, the
Wolfe returned to "his island stronghold at Lochindorbh exulting
in the hope that the interference on the part of the Bishop in his
domestic affairs had been fully avenged. The dull monotony,
however, within the surly fortress only served to sharpen the
stings of conscience, and quicken the gnawings of an ever present
and pitiless remorse. Thus tortured by a cruel mental reaction,
his iron frame began to give way, and gradually he sank into a
state of sullen inactivity. A week or two more, and he was com-
pletely prostrated on a sick bed — the victim of a low but rapidly
consuming fever. To all appearance, subdued and broken, the=
Wolfe of Badenoch lay as a helpless child in the terrible grasp of
the Last Enemy. Fully convinced that he would never rise again,
all his minions deserted him and attended to their own interests.
Chief among these was his guilty paramour, Lady Mariota Athyn,
the mother of his five illegitimate sons. For this woman he had

LOCHINDORBH. 243

shamelessly neglected his own lawful wife, and even braved the
malediction of the Bishop of Moray. And now, in his dire
affliction, instead of watching by the sick bed and trying to quench
his burning thirst, Mariota ranged the Castle, using every possible
opportunity to ransack her Lord's private repositories, in order to
possess herself of their most valued contents, the moment she
found him a powerless corpse. But, " Where there is life, there
is hope"; and so it proved in the case before us. By and by, when
the climax was passed, strength began to return, and with it a
great improvement in his natural character. The Lady Mariota
had now shown herself in her true colours, and the Earl at last
came to appraise her at a proper value. Cowed and disgraced,
she was immured in a distant stronghold, where she spent the
remainder of her life in poverty and neglect. Soon after, the
Wolfe was persuaded to seek by penance, to be again received
within the pale of the Holy Mother Church. To this the Bishop
agreed, and the strange humiliation actually took place in the
Black Friar's Monastery at Perth, in the presence of a great con-
course of the highest dignitaries both in the Church and State.

" There has always," says Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, " been a
very common belief in this country, that when a wicked man
suddenly and unexpectedly reforms his life, the circumstance is a
sure forewarning of his approaching death. It was so with the
Wolfe of Badenoch, for he lived only two or three years after the
great reformation that was so surprisingly wrought in him. That
the Earl did not fail to make good use of the remnant of his life
in wiping off old scores with the Church by making it large
donations from his well-filled coffers may be guessed from the
curious epitaph — " Bonse Memoriae," to his Good Memory — which
still exists in raised black-letter characters round the edge of the
now empty sarcophagus in which his body was deposited in the
Cathedral of Dunkeld. He died on the 20th February, 1394, A.D."

For some forty years from this time there is a pause in the
history of Lochindorbh, but this Castle comes again into promin-

244 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

ence during the early part of the fifteenth century. James II.,
or the Scottish King of the Fiery Face, succeeded to the
vacant Throne in 1437. During his minority, the turbulent
nobility, missing the strong arm of the Poet King, " Did every
one that which was right in his own eyes," and.boldly carried on
their private feuds with an impetuosity and appalling bloodshed
which seemed to defy all constituted authority. Plunder and
rapine, as a consequence, filled the land, while the poor inhabit-
ants were distracted and torn with oppression and terrible misery.
Chief among the rebel Lords was the great Earl of Douglas,
whose overgrown power, for a few years, threatened even the
existence of the Throne itself. Proud, daring, and chivalrous,
William, the eighth Earl, managed to captivate the young King's
affections so entirely that he appeared to exercise almost complete
control over him and his policy in the State. For the greater
aggrandisement of his own family, this nobleman induced James
to confer the vacant Earldom of Moray upon Archibald Douglas,
his third brother. It was not long after when the young King
discovered to his cost that he had done far too much for that
ambitious House, and he therefore resolutely set himself to
correct his early mistakes by every means in his power. Becom-
ing aware of the Royal intention, the Douglas prepared himself to
maintain his position by force of arms. Fierce and prolonged was
the struggle which followed, but in due time the crisis came in the
supper-room at Stirling Castle, where the unsuspecting Earl fell
beneath the dagger of the Fiery Monarch in February, 1452. In
revenge, Archibald, the newly created Earl of Moray, attacked
and set fire to the town of Stirling. Fleeing immediately
thereafter to the Highlands, he strongly fortified the Castles of
Darnaway and Lochindorbh, and raised the standard of rebellion
against the King. The contest, however, was short lived, for
notwithstanding the aid received from the powerful House of
Douglas, he was overthrown and slain at Arkinholme, Dumfries-
shire, in 1455 and all his followers scattered to the winds. Six

LOCHINDORBH 245

weeks later, for this and similar acts of treason, the deceased
Earl of Moray was disgraced and his estates and title forfeited to
the Crown, while James himself took possession of Darnaway
Castle. No sooner had the young King felt the fascination of the
district than he took means to enjoy it. " He chose Darnaway,"
says Cosmo Innes, " for his own hunting seat, and completed the
extensive repairs and new erections which the Douglas Earl had
begun. The massive beams of oak and solid structure of the roof
of the new work described in these accounts are still in part
recognisable in the great hall at Darnaway, which popular tradi-
tion, ever leaning toward a fabulous antiquity, ascribes to Earl
Randolph, but which is certainly of this period."

Almost contemporary with the building of Cawdor Castle, we
find James II. granting a commission under the Great Seal, on
the 5th March, 1455, at Aberdeen, to William, Thane of Cawdor,
his beloved squire, to raze and destroy the House and Fortalice
of Lochindorbh, in a moorland Loch beyond the Findhorn, as its-
situation and strength were considered dangerous to the Royal
power. The Deed itself runs in the following terms : —

" Quia per alias litteras nostras fecimus ordinavimus et de-
putavimus dilectum nostrum Willelmum Thanum de Caldor
nostrum factorem pro dejectione destructione et subversions
domus et fortalicii de Lochindorb prout in eisdem litteris nostris
desuper confectis plenius continetur. Nos heredes et successores-
nostri warrantizabimus et warrantizabunt defendemus et defend-
ent contra omnes mortales dictum Willelmum Thanum de Caldor,
heredes sues et assignatos penes dejectionem et subversionem
dicte domus et fortalicii de Lochindorb."

The work of demolition was duly carried out and the Thane
left the place very much as we now see it.

In the Exchequer Accounts for the year 1458 there is an entry
recording the payment of £24 to Campbell of Cawdor for the
razing of the Castle of Lochindorbh by command of the King two
years before he was killed at Roxburgh. The original is in

246 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

Latin : — u Et Thano de Caldor pro dejectione castri de Lochin-
dorbh de mandate Domini Regis testantibus Domino Episcopo
Moraviensi et thesavrario mandatum ipso Thano fatente receptum
super compotum de anno compoti xxiiii li."

A local tradition asserts that the massive iron, grated door now
on the dungeon keep at Cawdor Castle was carried a distance of
at least thirteen miles across the hills on the shoulders of a
powerful Highlander, known in Gaelic as " Donal gun mhathair, '
or Donald without a mother. For many years the lands of
Lochindorbh formed part of the princely domains of the Earl of
Moray. But by an agreement dated at Darnaway, on the 31st
October, 1608, he sold certain holdings to Sir John Campbell of
Cawdor, " Together with the Loch, buildings, and adjoining
shielings, lying within the Forrestrie of the Knock." Some time
afterwards Lochindorbh was transferred from the Cawdor Estate
by excambion or exchange to the Earl of Sean* eld, in whose hands
it has now remained for many years.

On the edge of the Findhorn, near the Mansion House at
Glenferness, in the centre of a small field there stands an inter-
esting relic of great antiquity, locally known as the Princess
.Stone. It is an erect slab of fine siliceous freestone, equally
durable with marble or granite, arid partially sunk in the soil.
The dimensions, as given by the late Rev. Donald Mitchell,
Minister of Ardclach, in a letter of 10th December, 1798, to Mr
George Chalmers of Auldbar, are, " Eight feet long, two broad,
five inches thick, with five and a half feet above the ground." It
is now obliquely cracked near the middle, but, by the direction of
the Earl of Leven and Melville, it has been recently supported on
each side with an upright jamb of sandstone. It exhibits on both
faces a number of sculptured symbols, all of which have become
very much obliterated by the atmospheric changes acting upon
them through some ten or twelve centuries.

This fine monolith is one of a series of similarly sculptured

THE PRINCESS STONE. 247

pillars, found most commonly in the north-east of Scotland, and
is unmistakably a work of Celtic art, belonging to the early
Christian period which commences in this country about the
middle of the sixth century. The purpose of such monuments
and their characteristic sculptures have been the subject of much
speculation among the antiquaries of our day. The emblematic
figures on the Glenferness stone were all cut strong and beautiful
in " alto relievo " and show considerable artistic skill and taste.

At the upper end, on one side, are still seen what appears to
be the remains of a partially obliterated Celtic Cross, decorated
throughout with the usual interlaced work or chain pattern of
the period, and exhibiting four cup-shaped recessions at the
intersections of the arms of the cross. The two spaces on each
side of the shaft are occupied with one or two involute figures
cut in simple outline. The same style of decoration, with the
divergent spirals and fretwork, slightly varied, is employed over
the rest of the surface all the way down. At the base, in a panel
beneath the Cross, two figures are depicted in the act of embrac
ing each other in mutual reconciliation, and are supposed, in
Christian symbol, to illustrate the doctrine that

" Mercy and Truth are met together :
Righteousness and Peace have kissed each other."

The hieroglyphs on the reverse side are numerous, and were
engraved in a style which does credit to a native artist living
more than a thousand years ago. From long exposure, the
representation atop, is greatly weather-worn, but enough yet
remains to show the figure of a monstrous serpent all coiled and
intertwisted as if writhing under the influence of intense suffering.
Underneath is the likeness of an archer, resting on one knee, in
the act of discharging an arrow from a cross-bow. As the object
originally figured in the space immediately in front is quite worn
off, the completion of the design must now be entirely conjectural.
We can, therefore, only hazard the guess that the spiritual lesson
therein portrayed may have had reference to the faithful pastor

248 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

of that age seeking the conversion of a sinner by " Smiting him
in the form of a hare, a goat, a wild boar, or a stag " with the
" dart of humility," in accordance with the teaching of an old
manuscript of the thirteenth century.

Below, and on the right side is an outline of the crescent symbol,
and a bent rod. On the same side of the monolith, it may be
observed that the grotesque figure of some fabulous creature
occurs twice. It is generally supposed to represent an elephant,
and to have been the mistaken idea of the artist who had only
heard of such an animal, but obviously from his delineation, could
never have seen one. The head, which is long enough to reach
the ground, is provided with a pair of enormous jaws, while the
trunk is made to spring from the forehead and stretch horizontally
over the back towards the tail. But what seems a rather curious
conception to introduce here is, that the body, all over, should be
adorned with an imitation of prettily wrought interlacing or
chain work — the whole being clearly that of some fierce and
crafty monster, designed apparently to symbolise the Father of
Evil himself. The centre is filled in with what, from its size and
complexity, must be considered the leading device. Hitherto
among antiquaries it has been generally known as the " spectacle "
ornament, and consists of a pair of circles at a little distance, but
communicating with each other by a couple of straps. Inside
the circumference of both, there are six smaller rings, or bosses,
arranged round a common one in the centre, now usually
supposed to represent the seven stars. The intermediate space
is traversed by the diagonal portion of the Z symbol while the
sceptre-like ends of the parallel sections are decorated with
elegance and skill. These, together with the whole of the other
associated insignia, are now believed to be intensely Biblical and
to have been inscribed, on this and similar monoliths, for Christian
purposes under the direction of the early preachers of the Gospel.
When entire and unwasted the Glenferness Stone must have been
a very beautiful work of art.

THE PRINCESS STONE. 249

In course of time the race by which these archaic symbolisms
were executed gradually became extinct in the north of Scotland,
while the new comers, although leaving them undisturbed in their
original situations, manifested no further interest in them than as
curious memorials left by the former inhabitants. A century or
two later, and every vestige of their history appears to have been
forgotten. The records were, indeed, intact, but not a single
scholar to reveal their secrets. Nor can we account for the
wonderful preservation to us of the monuments themselves,
through ages of ignorance and superstition, except from the
instinctive veneration with which the popular mind regarded the
hidden truths enshrined behind their mysterious characters.
During a still later period when exaggerated story or pleasing
romance formed the only literature of the natives, we are able to
imagine pretty correctly the peculiar circumstances by which the
well known Legend of a bygone generation came to be connected
with the stone pillar at Glenferness. No doubt, the two human
figures portrayed in mutual embrace on the obverse side suggested
the reference to the local incident in which a Prince and Princess
are said to have lost their lives.

According to the beautiful story of the seventeenth century,
the predatory warfare from which the romantic occurrence is
borrowed must have taken place some time prior to the final
overthrow of the Norse invaders in the year 1010, during the
reign of Malcolm II. Taking up this variety of the tale, we have
to assume that the old castle of Lochindorbh, now in ruins, and
situated on a small island near the side of the lake, was a massive
Strength of considerable importance in the district. All through
the narrative it is represented as a Royal residence, near which
the local forces assembled on the eve of a severe engagement
which occurred in the vicinity of Dunearn, for the purpose of
checking a daring incursion by the restless Norsemen.

" The Raven of Denmark," says the old Legend, " stretched
his broad wing o'er Moray's fair fields." Poising himself for one

250 A HIGHLAND PARISH

fell swoop, he darted down among the industrious inhabitants
along the sea-board, with the intention of settling his wild hordes
in comfortable homes all over the lowlands of that fertile province-
To avert such a calamity the Moray men turned out in great
force, and encountered the Danes a few miles inland from where the
River Findhorn empties itself into the sea. The struggle which
ensued was very unequal : the enemy having not only mustered
in overwhelming numbers, but their bowmen discharged cloud
after cloud of arrows with deadly effect among the Celtic ranks.
All day the sounds of military strife could be heard far and near
as the opposing battalions, shouting their respective slogans,
closed in a hand to hand conflict on the open field. Towards
nightfall the noise of battle began, indeed, to die away, but the
rocky echoes from the Findhorn side were still answering to the
shrieks of the wounded and dying from every quarter. Despite
the Moray men having kept their blood-soaked ground for a long
time, and fought with the determination of patriots who were
resolved to die as hard as possible in defence of the lives and
properties of everyone dear to them, it became sadly evident
towards the evening that the power of the Sea King was to
prevail, albeit the victory had cost him an enormous price : —

" Each fell not till crushed by a hundred foes !
And dire vengeance had soothed their dying throes."

Thus, the fortune of war had proved a terrible calamity to the
brave defenders. Henceforward, a wide district was forced to
lay itself for some time in helpless submission at the conqueror's
feet.

It was not long till the poor rustics had reason enough to
regret the result of the struggle, for we read that " The Findhorn's
dark heights became lighted anon by far fiercer rays." The
Norsemen, unchecked in their wild designs, began to overrun the
whole province even to its southern uplands, harrying and pillag-
ing and burning without mercy. Penetrating into every strath
and glen among the dark blue hills, they inflicted every kind of

THE PRINCESS STONE. 251

atrocity upon the poor defenceless inhabitants. During their
progress along the upper reaches of the river these roving
marauders, to their great surprise, found that once more there
was to be an appeal to the edge of the sword. In due course, the
opposing forces were marching towards a rough grassy flat in the
vicinity of the Doune, a short way below where Dulsie Bridge
now spans the stream. Here King Fergus, who had arrived a
few hours earlier, direct from Lochindorbh with a powerful body
of Highlanders, managed to take up a good position, and was
resolved to make a determined stand for the purpose of stopping,
if possible, the cruel tyranny of his ruthless foe. Before the
enemy's van had emerged from the Glenferness woods, on the
right bank of the river, he succeeded in throwing a select body of
his men behind the screen of a neighbouring thicket as a reserve
contingent for future use. Very soon the two armies stood face
to face — the Findhorn alone lying between them. Scarcely had
the men of Denmark forded the stream —

" Nor yet had they formed on the meadow's side,
When by bursting yells the skies were rent,
With the gleam of arms glowed the firmament,
And down like the lightning's fiery shower
Came King Fergus' force on King Sewyn's power."

The conflict was shortlived. The Moray men not only gained a
complete victory, but by a sudden dash of the reserve party, they
surrounded the staff of the enemy, carrying off the Danish leader,
Prince Harold, to Lochindorbh Castle, where he was safely
placed a prisoner of war within the dungeon keep. Gradually
the invaders were all driven to their ships, and peace and
prosperity once more began to settle down over the whole
province.

Some time after this reverse of fortune had befallen the Throne
of Denmark, King Sewyn sent a special envoy to the Celtic Court
to arrange, if possible, a treaty of peace and endeavour to form a
family alliance by means of an early marriage between the
captured Prince and the young Malvina, King Fergus' only

252 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

daughter. In due time the proposal was communicated and
favourably received at Lochindorbh.

" The Sea Men were for peace, for peace,

The Moray Men were not for war.
Said the Chiefs, « We'll wed our bairns together
And burn and harry and kill no more.' "

The projected union proved highly popular on both sides of the
sea. The whole of the nuptial preliminaries being amicably
settled, all the arrangements appeared to be culminating towards
a proper celebration thereof according to the custom of the
period. Meanwhile the Prince and Princess, who knew nothing
of the great interest which was being manifested on their behalf
by the relative Powers, had become passionately enamoured of
each other. Animated by an ardent attachment to the young
Prince, the fair Malvina, aided by a sympathetic domestic, suc-
ceeded in carrying out a scheme for their secret escape, in view
of a subsequent elopement to Denmark, in one of the Royal ships
then cruising in the Moray Firth. On the evening previous to
the day fixed by her father for the happy surprise and public
ceremonies, the Prince and Princess very unfortunately contrived
only a few hours in advance to make good their escape. Taking
with them the King's favourite grey horse, they managed to cross
the loch in one of the Castle boats, and land on the northern
shore, without raising the least suspicion in the mind of any of
the warders above the portals of the Stronghold. Early next
morning her father cried,

" Go, bring to me my daughter fair,
And fetch me out young Harold here,
And call the Priest to marry them fast
Wi' feasts and dances and a' good cheer ! "

Such a pleasant command produced no small stir among the
inmates of the Castle. In vain did they search the whole place
from dungeon to turret, but no bride or bridegroom was to be
found. " For the Prince was gone and Malvina fair." Mounting
together on horseback by the edge of the water, they had lost no
time on their way through the great forest which then clothed

THE PRINCESS STONE. 253

the district, till they reached the banks of the Findhorn near
Dulsie. At this point, however, they found that all further
progress, in that direction, was completely barred on account of
the flooded state of the river. Taking refuge, it is said, for a
brief space, in a small place of worship then existing on the Hill
of the Doune, they soon discovered from the eastern terrace that
the King, who had been apprised of the real state of matters by
a sharp-eyed little page, was, with a mounted escort, in full
pursuit. Hoping against hope, the ill-fated pair leapt on the
back of the grey horse, and galloped down the hill side to the
water's edge, where the " Speat on Findhorn drumlie rolled " in
fearful torrents to its kindred sea. Here the sensible animal,
unwilling to attempt the impossible, started back and snorted
out his instinctive disapproval of their daring project. There
was no help for it, however, and the prick from the Prince's
dagger sealed their doom. A few minutes later, and the three
were seen to be vainly struggling and plunging against the
powerful currents of the swollen river. From the shore all hope
of rescue by her father's party was out of the question — the grey
steed "Sank wi' his burden in Findhorn's flood," and all was lost.
A day or two after when the stream had partially subsided, the
mortal remains of the two lovers were found lying in mutual
embrace on the grassy holm a short way above the Mansion
House.

" And there did King Fergus and Sewyn weep,
When they found them locked in death's cold shade,
And Findhorn still lingers around their grave,
And sighs for their fate with repentant wave. "

By order of the Royal parents a grave was at once opened on the
spot, and, that in death they should not be divided, the luckless
couple were reverently laid side by side and carefully covered up
in the " house appointed for all living."

In addition to the monolith previously referred to, a rude cairn
of rough water-worn stones, carried apparently from the river
bed, was raised over them and called by the old Highlanders

254 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

11 Uaigh nan Lennan," or the " Cairn of the Lovers." Planted,
no doubt by a sympathetic hand, some time during the last
century, there stands a fine old birch tree on the one side, in
memory let us suppose of the Princess, while a companion
rowan, which grows on the other side, may have been intended
as a fit representation of her gallant admirer, who remained her
devoted friend to the last and voluntarily elected to risk, in her
company, the sad consequences of their romantic scheme, rather
than trust himself to the mercy of her angry father. Both trees
are still fresh and vigorous, and are well fulfilling the object for
which they were planted here.

" And they twa met and they twa plait,

And fain they wad be near,
That a' the world might ken right weel,
They were twa lovers dear."

Callum Beg was a notorious riever, or cattle stealer, who lived
some centuries ago on the small croft at Straneorn on the right
bank of the Findhorn, nearly opposite the farm house of Banchor
in the parish of Ardclach. A few ruins on the edge of the haugh
are said to mark the site of his rude homestead, and a short way
up the adjoining cliff, the dark cave is still pointed out in which
he used to secrete and preserve the meat of a stolen animal which
it might be dangerous for him to store up in the usual way
within the house. The whole surroundings are wild and pre-
cipitous in the extreme : just the kind of natural security one
would expect a Highland freebooter might consider the most
appropriate in which to take up his private abode. Here then
lived Callum Beg, and in this lonely spot schemed those deeds of
plunder and rapine which, in days long gone by, made his name
not only a household word but a kind of terror over the whole
district. From this Alpine retreat, therefore, he was in the habit,
as occasion served, of sallying forth single-handed upon the
farmers of the rich Lowlands, " lifting " a beast, and thereafter
returning with all speed to the seclusion of his mountain eorry

BEG. 255

beyond the risk of immediate discovery. Short though he was
in physical stature, yet he was a veritable giant in strength and
endurance, being able to carry across his shoulders, and that too
for a long distance, a load of booty sufficient to crush any ordinary
man. Throughout the Streens, however, he was a great favourite,
and was always spoken of among the residenters there, as " That
honest man Callum Beg." Not unfrequently did he suit his own
convenience, or carry out a practical joke at the expense of his
neighbour, but for this he made it a point of honour, that every
one of them should receive ample compensation for any temporary
loss sustained through him, since it is said he never " killed a
beast " without sharing it in the most liberal manner among the
farmers and crofters all along the glen.

Born at a time when even the merest rudiments of an education
were little thought of for the children of the poorer classes, Callum
could neither read nor write. Nor did he ever come to see during
the whole of his life that the neglect had resulted in any particu-
lar loss or inconvenience so far as he was concerned. Endowed
with more than an average share of intellectual capacities, he set
himself to study the slippery principles of " The plan, the simple
plan, that they should take who had the power, and they should
keep who can," in so far as he considered the adoption thereof to
be capable of ministering to the immediate necessities of his own
humble establishment. Cunning, shrewd, and venturesome, he
was generally successful in his various exploits, and often
managed to escape detection from the clever way in which he
was able, in pressing circumstances, to disguise his booty and
explain his conduct when suddenly called upon to account for the
ownership of any doubted possession. His life policy was mainly
actuated by a series of uncertain motives — self, falsehood, and
deceit —incentives, however, which in those days were in nowise
held to be in the least inconsistent with the character and pro-
fession of a " gentleman " of the period.

While quite a lad he was fortunate enough to be engaged as

256 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

one of the servants at Cawdor Castle, and discharged his various
duties as herdsman with so marked ability and faithfulness that
he soon attracted the attention, and gradually won for himself
the life-long favour and friendship of his lord and master the
Laird of Cawdor.

Early one Summer morning as Callum was busily employed
looking after a fine herd of Highland cattle on the Home Farm,
he was suddenly surprised by a strong band of fierce Cateranes
from the hills, and made prisoner without much chance of
escape. Losing no time, his beasts were all collected into
a goodly sized drove. In the hope of defeating the least pos-
sibility of an immediate pursuit, the rievers placed Callum himself
before them in the rear of the oxen, and started with the
whole over the moor in the direction of the West High-
lands. What, thought he, was to be done ? The situation, to
all appearance, was dark and cheerless in the extreme. After
some little consideration, as he stepped gloomily behind his late
charge, a happy idea flashed across his mind. He began secretly
to cut off small pieces of his plaid and drop them when unobserved,
one after another at short intervals on the ground in the same
way that school-boys lay down " the scent " with scraps of paper
for the guidance of " the dogs," when they are playing at " hounds
and hares." On the following day, when everybody in and about
the Castle was out searching the whole district, and wondering
what could have become of Callum and his beasts, one of the men
accidently picked up a small bit of tartan rag, which, after a
little examination, was easily identified as part of Callum's well-
known plaid. The artifice had proved entirely successful. The
proper route was thereby plainly discovered and duly followed all
the way up to the wilds of Strathdearn, where the unsuspecting
freebooters were speedily overtaken in a secluded corry all seated,
with their prisoner, round a large fire and feasting with
great hilarity upon the roasted flesh of a prime bullock. After a
severe struggle, in which the pursuers did not lose a single man,

CALLUM BEG. 257

the stolen cattle were collected and driven back by Callum and
his friends to their former pastures at Cawdor Castle. On all
hands it was freely admitted that Callum by his clever strategy
had fully deserved the handsome present which was given to him
by the Laird himself immediately after his return.

In course of time both his parents died in the Streens, and, as
their only son, he naturally became tenant of Straneorn on the
usual terms current in those days. Some time after settling on
the old family homestead he married a young woman with whom
he had formerly become acquainted in the lower district, and so
fully did he manage to imbue her with his own principles and
way of thinking that she turned out a most suitable helpmate, and
in every respect a thoroughly sympathetic friend and adviser.
They began life in their Highland home, as many others, similarly
situated, have done, under the pressure of somewhat straitened
circumstances, but in a few years Callum and his wife had con-
siderably risen in the social scale, and stood well in the eyes of
their neighbours who always spoke of the former to strangers as
a man of sterling character and worth. At first, possessed of
only one poor old white horse, he foresaw that it would be a serious
matter for him, without additional help to lay down his first crop.
Taking the situation, however, into his earnest consideration, in a
few days he had made up his mind how he was to act. Secretly
killing his own beast, he skinned it with great care and quietly
buried the carcass. Next night he walked over to the stable at
Banchor, and, waiting till he found that the whole family were
fast asleep, removed the best brown horse. Returning with it soon
after midnight, he and his wife immediately set about carrying
his plan into effect, and so thoroughly disguised the animal, by
sewing on the white hide with such skill and neatness, that Callum
was enabled to work him day after day in the open field without
anyone even suspecting the trick of which he had been guilty.
Of course, the poor farmer was greatly annoyed and did all in his
power to discover the perpetrator of such a bold deed, but all to

258 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

no purpose. After a time he had made up his mind to bear his
loss and say nothing further about it. What then was Banchor's
surprise one morning some six weeks afterwards, when he was
about to turn out the rest of his horses to the hill grazings, to see
his long lost horse standing as usual in his place, and none the
worse for the friendly help he had just been affording to his canny
neighbour on the opposite side of the river.

A few years after this, Callum bought an old garron at one of
the Cawdor Trysts. On trial he found that he had not only made
a worse bargain than he expected, as the beast was practically
useless, but that the additional loss in " keep " before he could
again be able to dispose of it at another market, would be to him
something considerable. Fortune, however, favours the brave,
and it so happened that his neighbour, the farmer of Dalbuie,
stepped in about an evening or two after, and asked Callum to
come over and help him to kill a fine " mairt " which he had been
feeding for the Christmas. To this he readily gave his consent,
and duly made his appearance at the time appointed. During
the operation everyone present was praising the meat, and telling
Dalbuie what a pleasure it would be in his family throughout the
rest of the Winter months. All the time Callum himself had an
eye upon the beef, and was secretly concocting a plan whereby he
might secure it for his own table. That night he killed his old
horse, removing all the distinctive parts so as to render it as like
the dressed stirk as possible, arid quietly exchanged the carcasses
before morning. A few months afterwards, when both families
had made good progress with their respective " mairts," Callum
invited his neighbour one day to come over and take dinner with
him. " Isn't that good beef, Dalbuie ? " said he, as he placed a
second supply on the good man's plate. " What like was yours
compared with that 1" "0, nothing like it," replied he ; " Ye saw
yourself how well it looked the day we killed it, but, 0 man, it
was awfully teuch."

As the story goes, a somewhat penurious neighbour of his one

CALLUM BEG. 259

day asked Callum to come up to his house and kill a young pig
for him, but as it was only a very small one, he added — " You
know I could not, with such a small beastie, afford to give any of
it away except a hind leg which I shall send down to yourself.
What would you, therefore, advise me to do in order that none
of the other folks about may be expecting me to part with a bit
to each of them ?" " Put the whole carcass," said Callum, " for
the first night into the edge of the Findhorn in front of your own
house. It will not only cool arid firm the meat, but at the same
time help to purify it from any traces of clotted blood which
may remain, and you can just take a walk down to our house
the following day, and say to my wife and anybody else you may
care to tell in the Streens what you did, and assure them that
the pig was stolen." Quite pleased with this plausible scheme,
the poor man complied in every detail with the advice given him,
with the result that next morning the carcass was nowhere to be
found all along the river. Hastening down to Straneorn, he began
to pour forth in doleful lamentations the news of the sad mis-
fortune, but explain as best he could, he entirely failed to convince
either Callum or his wife that his tale was other than the
preconcerted repetition of the one he had undertaken the day
before, to circulate among his neighbours so as to delude them
and save his pork.

One year owing to a deficient corn crop, the poor people
throughout the Streens found that their meal would be done a
month or two before the next harvest. For months, not a peck
was to be had in the mill of Drynachan, and Callum's girnel, too,
was all but empty. Thinking over the matter for some time, he
took his favourite Highland pony, a very sagacious animal, which
had been in his possession for several years, spread a good bag
saddlewise over its back and set out one afternoon for the mill of
Moyness in Auldearn. On his arrival there, he purchased a boll
of meal, but as it was rather far into the evening before he
reached, the miller very considerately asked him to stay over

260 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

night, saying that he would be at liberty, after a good night's
rest, to start as early as he thought proper on the following
morning. To this proposal Callum very readily consented, and
placing his bag of meal in a convenient situation in one of the
out-houses, so as not to be under the necessity, as he said, of
disturbing the miller previous to his usual time of rising, for the
purpose of opening the mill door, he retired to rest in the " butt
end " of the house, about an hour before the other members of
the family went off to their beds. Towards midnight when he
had satisfied himself that all the inmates were fast asleep, ho went
out to the stable, secured the meal on the back of his pony and
thereafter tied the miller's best cow to its tail. Then attaching
a large broom bush to the caudal appendage of the latter so as,
more or less, to blear the footprints of both, he started the two
beasts on their homeward journey to the Streens, and went
quietly back to his bed. Next morning the animals were very
quickly missed, and in consequence there was no small conster-
nation among the domestics as to what had become of the stolen
property. Callum, of course, was at once suspected, but when
the miller found him sound asleep, in the room where he himself
had left him the night before, that idea had to be entirely given
up. Such a misfortune, however, to both parties, could not be
concealed, and the news had to be broken. After hearing the
full particulars, Callum appeared to be greatly distressed, and
began to pour forth a sad lamentation over the great loss that
such an unfortunate calamity would be to him. Then threatening
to hold the miller responsible for the full value of his lost pro-
perty, he left for the Streens, loudly expressing his deep regret
that he had ever thought of buying his meal at the mill at
Moyness.

There was in early times an old Celtic tenure by which the
chief or lord of the tribe claimed entertainment, as circumstances
might require, for himself and his followers in the house of his
tenant for so many nights in the year. In accordance, mayhap,

CALLUM BEG. 261

with the relics of such a custom, we are told that the Thane of
Cawdor was in the habit of putting up from time to time for a
few days at Straneorn when on any of his fishing or hunting
expeditions in the Streens. At all events, Callum was a special
favourite and enjoyed the closest friendship of the Laird, who,
although he had often undoubted cause for being greatly dis-
pleased with him on account of his reckless conduct, yet invariably
overlooked his faults in the same way as an indulgent parent does
those of a spoiled and wayward child. Just before setting out
on one occasion with a band of followers for a week's fishing in
the Streens, his Lordship was very much annoyed at the loss of a
fine bullock which had suddenly disappeared from his herd at
Cawdor Castle, and notwithstanding the most diligent search no
one had been able to give the least account of the beast. In due
course, however, he arrived at the Findhorn, and each day as he
sat down to lunch with Callum, the Laird complimented him on
the prime beef which he always found on his table, but usually
finished up with a sad lamentation over the loss of his own " fine
mairt." At last Callum could stand it no longer and broke out
one day — " I'm sure your Lordship needna be aye making such
a din about that bit stirkie, for I can assure you that by this time
you have had your full share of the brute." " 0 you villain !"
exclaimed the Laird, " I see it clearly now, but did I ever think of
the trick that you have been playing upon me, but I'll not forget
you my man for this." Callum had been dining the Laird and
his servants from day to day upon the meat of his own well-fed
bullock.

Relying on the continued forbearance of the Laird, Callum
seldom scrupled to help himself at the expense of his master when
an opportunity fit and safe presented itself. One day towards
the end of November, he had come down to the Castle to pay his
last half year's rent, but as the night had turned out rather rough
and stormy his Lordship advised Callum to remain where he was,
and said that for the time being he might have a share of the

262 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

grieve's bed. During the night when he found that that
functionary had fallen fast asleep, Callum rose, went out to the
byre and selected a nice fat quey, drove it four or five miles across
the moor to the hill above Banchor, and was back in his bed again
before his companion had wakened from his fiwst sleep. Next
morning as soon as the animal was missed all the servants about
the square became very anxious to clear themselves from any
imputations, and everyone seemed unanimous in the opinion
that Callum must of necessity be the guilty man, but the grieve
most effectually silenced all open insinuations by declaring that
whoever the guilty person was, it could not be " that honest man
Callum Beg," for he had not only been in his house all night but
even slept in the same bed beside himself.

The following incident is related in the History of Nairnshire: —
Callum, we are told, attended all the local trysts with great
regularity, but his movements were invariably watched on these
occasions with some degree of anxiety by the farmers from the
" Laigh " of Moray and Nairn. One day he turned up as usual
at a Forres market, and, while taking a round or two among the
cattle, espied a nice little cow which he believed would suit his
purpose very well. To " lift " her, he concluded there would be
little or no difficulty, but from one marked peculiarity, he was
afraid to do so, for fear of an easy detection. The fact was, the
beast had no tail. After some little reflection, Callum felt himself
once again able to meet the circumstances of the case. Keeping
an eye on her till the darkness had set in, he very cunningly
removed the tail from another animal, and during the night
attached it with great neatness to the end of the stump. Next
morning Callum was seen driving his booty in broad daylight
along the high road between Forres and Nairn. At Findhorn
Bridge, however, he was overtaken by the owner, who accosted
him in somewhat angry tones. " Stop, thief !" cried he ; " that's
my beast that you have got." " How do you make that out,
goodman ? " said Callum. " Because she is like her in every

CALLUM BEG. 263

way," replied the crofter, becoming heated with rage. "That
may be, but you know 'that like a thing was never a thing',''
ejaculated Callum ; then pointing with his stick to the beast
before him, added, " and besides, do you mean to tell me that
your cow had a tail like that ? " The poor man was completely
taken aback, for he could not say that she had. Taking advantage
of his sudden confusion, Callum feigned to consider the matter as
a personal insult, and gave him a little bit of his mind on the
subject. As soon as possible, however, he endeavoured to ter-
minate the interview by advising his accuser to be more careful
in future before he ventured to blame an honest man for having
stolen any of his beasts. Then turning on his heel, he immediately
drove off in triumph, feeling sure that he had now little or no-
serious danger to encounter during the rest of his way home to
the Streens.

In the " Highland Note Book," Dr Carruthers relates a good
story of Callum Beg. Being a dependent and great favourite, the
Laird of Cawdor often interfered on behalf of his wayward
retainer in connection with his forays on the neighbouring estates,
On day Callum, having stolen a good fat sheep, was brought with
it in his possession to appear before the Laird as his feudal superior
and judge. Having a special regard for him, the Laird did not well
know how to act. After thinking over the matter for a short time,
he ordered the culprit and the sheep to be put into the " donjon
keep " of the castle, at the same time giving directions that his
accusers should be amply regaled on bread and ale. During the
time they were thus engaged, the Laird slipt out and enquired of
Callum if he had a good knife. Being answered in the affirmative
— " Then," said he, " I shall send you customers for your wedder."
Callum immediately took the hint and killed the sheep. He cut
it into small morsels, and threw the whole out through the
apertures, constructed in the dungeon wall rather for air than
light, into the front court where there was a pack of hounds by
whom the sheep was speedily devoured. Time having been

264 A HIGHLAND PARISH.

allowed for the accomplishment of this feat, the Laird took his
chair of state and summoned that " obdurate thief," Callum Beg,
into his presence, together with the stolen property and the wit-
nesses. The iron door of the cell was forthwith opened, and the
clansman produced, but not a vestige of the sheep*could be found.
Upon this statement the justice spake, charging the witnesses
with conspiring against that honest man, Callum Beg, and accord-
ingly set the prisoner free ! Callum, however, was not always so
fortunate.

On another occasion he fell into the hands of the Laird of
Kilraak, and was committed to durance vile. His own chief,
the Thane of Cawdor, hearing of the jeopardy in which Callum
was placed, repaired to the mansion of his friend on the first day
of the new year, and seated himself on the great stair in front of
the castle. In due course Kilraak himself made his appearance,
and the usual greetings having passed, he invited his neighbour,
the Laird of Cawdor, into the hall, but he replied that he had
a new year's gift to ask, and unless it were granted he would not
enter the Castle, or even partake of his proffered hospitality. " I
shall grant you every favour in my power," replied Kilraak, " but
the life of Callum Beg." " That," rejoined the other, " is the very
request I came to make, and since it has been denied, it is un-
necessary for me to stay any longer." The Laird accordingly
departed, and the culprit was — hanged. Some years ago, a skeleton
was dug up in the district with a rope round its neck, and the
country people felt certain that it was none other than the
veritable remains of Callum Beg.

Such are some of the Stories and Legends of our Highland
Parish.

APPENDIX.

LIST OF PLANTS FOUND IN THE PARISH OF ARDCLACH.

MUSHROOMS— FUNGI.
EDIBLE FUNGI.

Agaricus rubescens — Ruddy Warty Caps. Under trees.
Agaricus campestris — Common Mushroom. Not in woods.
Marasmius oreades — Fairy Ring Champignon.
Agaricus arvensis — Horse Mushroom.
Agaricus orcella — Sweetbread Mushroom.
Boletus edulis— Edible Boletus.

Hygrophorus pratensis — Buff Caps. A very beautiful species.
POISONOUS FUNGI.
Agaricus muscarius— Fly Mushroom.

Agaricus semilanceatus — Liberty Caps. Often amongst grass.
Agaricus semiglobatus — Dung Slimy Caps.
Agaricus fascicularis — Clustered Yellow Mushroom.
Agaricus aeruginosus — Green Slimy Caps.

Coprinus picaceus — Magpie Mushroom. Nowhere common. In Sep-
tember, 1888, we found a number of very fine specimens in a
disused gravel pit in the wood near Whitemire farm house,
Darnaway.

Agaricus fastibilis — Sham Mushroom.
Russula emetica — Emetic Russule.
Boletus luridus — Lurid Boletus.

266 APPENDIX.

MOSSES— Musci.

Sphagnum cymbifolium— Blunt-leaved Bog Moss. Abundant.
Sphagnum acutifolium — Slender Bog Moss. Plentiful in mossy pools.

Sphaguum subsecundum. In 1893 we discovered this rare moss in a
still pool on the Aitnoch Moor. The stems are sometimes nearly
two feet long. The three species grow in water, and may be
readily known by their pale colour, sometimes almost white.

Anoectangium ciliatum — Hoary-branched Beardless Moss. On an ice
carried boulder, Grantown road, near the 12th milestone.

Grimmia pulvinata — Grey -cushioned Grimmia. This beautiful ever-
green moss is frequent on wall-tops and rocks.

Didymodon purpureus — Purple Didymodon. It is native over the
whole earth.

Trichostomum lanuginosum — Woolly Fringe Moss. On the lofty
mountains it sometimes forms a soft grey carpet many acres in
extent. Lynemore, June, 1892.

Trichostomum heterostichum — Serrated Hoary Fringe Moss. On a
granite boulder near Ferness.

Trichostomum aciculare — Dark Mountain Fringe Moss. Ferness Falls.

Dicranum bryoides — The Lesser Pinnate-leaved Fork Moss. This i»
the little moss which cheered Mungo Park in his hour of difficulty
and despair on the banks of the Niger. A small but variable
species.

Dicranum glaucum — White Fork Moss. Aitnoch Moor, April, 1893.

Dicranum squarrosum — Drooping-leaved Fork Moss. Often near a
clear fountain.

Dicranum pellucidum — Pellucid Fork Moss. Burn and river banks.

Dicranum scoparium — Broom Fork Moss. Generally distributed over
the globe. <&

Dicranum heteromallum — Silky-leaved Fork Moss. Shady sandy
banks.

Polytrichum piliferum — Bristle-pointed Hair Moss. Heathy soil.

Poly trie-hum Juniperinum — Juniper-leaved Hair Moss. Generally
without leaves at the base of the stem.

Polytrichum commune — Common Hair Moss. One of the giants of
the tribe. In size it varies from six to twelve inches.

Polytrichum Alpinum — Alpine Hair Moss.

Polytrichum urnigerum — Urn-bearing Hair Moss. In age the leaves
assume a reddish tinge.

Polytrichum aloides — Dwarf Long-headed Hair Moss. Moist sandy

banks.
Orthotrichum leiocarpum — Smooth-fruited Bristle Moss. Oak trees.

Orthotrichum crispum — Curled Bristle Moss. Oak stems ; rare on

stones.
Bryum ligulatum — Long-leaved Thyme Thread Moss. In woods and

on moist banks. " Pulchrae gentis pulcherrima." Common.

APPENDIX. 267

Bryum punctatum — Dotted Thyme Threa:! Moss. The foliage varies

much.

Bryum hornum— Swan's-neck Thyme Thread Moss. A showy species.
Bartramia pomiformis — Common Apple Moss. An elegant moss.
Bartramia fontana — Fountain Apple Moss. Found perfect about

midsummer, near springs in a turfy soil.
Bartramia arcuata — Curve-stalked Apple Moss.
Fontinalis antipyretica — Greater Water Moss. On stones under

running water.
Hypnum undulatum — Waved Feather Moss. There is a very beautiful

pinnate variety in Ferness Wood.
Hypnum denticulatum — Sharp Fern-like Feather Moss.
Hypnum purum— Neat Meadow Feather Moss. On Banks and under

trees.

Hypnum Schreberi — Schreberian Feather Moss. Rare in Fruit.
Hypnum alopecurum — Fox-tail Feather Moss. Ferness Falls.
Hypnum dendroides— Tree-like Feather Moss. A very graceful species.
Hypnum splendens — Glittering Feather Moss. Sterns glossy.
Hypnum proliferum — Proliferous Feather Moss. Woods and banks.
Hypnum rutabulum — Common Kough-stalked Feather Moss. Common.
Hypnum cuspidatum — Pointed Bog Feather Moss.
Hypnum loreum — Rambling Mountain Feather Moss. Ferness Falls.
Hypnum triquetrum— Triquetrous Feather Moss.
Hypnum cupressiforme — Cypress-leaved Feather Moss.

Hypnum Crista-castrensis — Ostrich-plume Feather Moss. This is the
most elegant of all the Hypna, and a prize for the southern
Muscologist.

•JUNGERMANNIACE^E.

Jungermannia asplenioides. Frequent on damp mossy stones.

HEPATIC^E.

Marchantia polymorpha.

LlCHENES.

Cladonia pyxidata — Fairy Cups.

Cladonia rangiferina — Reindeer Moss. Heathy moors.

Usnea barbata — Jupiter's Beard or Tree Hair.

Parmelia parietina — Yellow Lichen.

Carnicularia Jubata.

Ramalina calicaris.

Ramalina farinacea — Narrow Meally Ramalina.

Sticta pulmonacea. On trunks of trees.

268 APPENDIX.

LYCOPODIACE^— THE CLUB-MOSS FAMILY.

Lycopodium clavatum — Common Club- Moss. " Tod's tails."

Lycopodium annotinum — The Interrupted Club-Moss. Rare. Found
one specimen on the summit of Ben Wyvis in September, 1876.

Lycopodium Alpinum — Alpine Club-Moss. Occasional, Carn Glass.

Lycopodium Selago — Fir Club-Moss. Frequent on the higher heaths,.
Carn Glass.

EQUISETACE^— THE HORSETAIL FAMILY.

Equisetum arvense — Field Horsetail. On damp meadows and similar
places. The fertile frond comes up in April and May ; the barren
fronds afterwards, from a different part of the same root.

Equisetum sylvaticum — Wood Horsetail. Branches compound, usually
deflexed. In shady wet places.

Equisetum limosum — Smooth Naked Horsetail. Commonly found ini
stagnant water. The branched variety is Equisetum fluviatile.
This is the " Paddocks' Pipes " of Moray and Nairn.

Equisetum palustre — Marsh Horsetail. Airdrie Mills. Tomnarroch.
Burn.

FILICES— THE FERN FAMILY.
POLYPODIES.

Polypodium vulgare — The Common Polypody. The fructification is
so conspicuous that popularly it is said to bear flowers on the back
of its fronds. Grows on old walls, stumps and roots of trees.

Polypodium Phegopteris — Mountain Polypodium or Beech Fern.
There are a few patches here and there along the Findhorn.

Polypodium Dryopteris — The Three-branched Polypody or Oak Fern,
Frequent in shady wet places. This is a very handsome species.

ASPIDIE^E.
Lastrea Filix-mas— Male Fern. Common about hedges and ditches.

Lastrea dilatata — Broad Prickly- toothed Fern. Common, and will
grow in almost any soil. A very variable species.

Lastrea Oreopteris — Mountain Male Fern. The spore cases are mar-
ginal and the under side of the fronds is furnished with numerous
yellow glands which are distinctly fragrant when bruised. Frequent
on open heaths in the Findhorn valley.

Polystichum aculeatum — Prickly Shield Fern. This fern is almost an
evergreen and occurs sparingly among the rocks along the river.

Polystichum lobatum var. B. Occasional on the Findhorn.

Polystichum angulare — Soft Prickly Shield Fern. Not common. The
botanist alone is able to distinguish aculeatum from angulare.

Polystichum Lonchitis — Alpine Shield or Holly Fern. Found on the
Findhorn by the late Rev. Dr Gordon and W. A. Stables, but all
the roots have long since been removed to private gardens.

Cystopteris fragilis — Brittle Bladder Fern. Occasional in Nairnshire.
Grows luxuriantly in one damp spot on the rocks below Daltra,
There are one or two specimens on the masonry of Dulsie Bridge
over the pool.

APPENDIX. 269

Cystopteris dentata, var. B. One specimen, found on the Findhorn.
ASPLENIEJG.
Athynum Filix-f cemina — Drooping Lady Fern. c ' Queen of the Ferns. "

Asplenium Adiantum nigrum— Black Spleenwort. One locality on
the river below Daltra. Varies greatly in the size of frond.

Asplenium Trichomanes — Common Spleenwort. Frequent on shady
rocks and abundant on the old walls of Lochindorbh Castle.

Asplenium viride — Green Spleenwort. Grows in the damp crannies
near the Alt n airidh and Lynemore Falls.

PTERIDE.E.

Pteris aquilina— Common Bracken. The largest, commonest, and
most handsome of the British ferns.

BLECHNE.E.

Blechnum spicant vel boreale — Hard Fern. Produces two distinct
kinds of frond — fertile and barren. Common.

OPHIOGLOSSACE^K.

Botrychium Lunaria — Moonwort. This is a famous plant in legendary
lore. Frequent on the dry moors. Bell-tower hill.

GRAMINEJE— THE GRASS FAMILY.

PHALARIDE^E— THE PHALARIS TRIBE.

Phalaris arundinacea — Reed Canary Grass. On the margin of the
Loch of Belivat. It is a very ornamental grass. The striped
leaved Canary Grass is common in gardens but does not occur
wild in Nairnshire.

Anthoxanthum odoratum — Sweet-scented Vernal Grass. Not very
nutritive, but esteemed for its smell which causes much of the
fragrance peculiar to newly mown meadow hay.

Phleum pratense — Meadow Timothy Grass. Occurs in pastures and
grassy places.

Phleum buibosum var. The stem at the base is changed into a fleshy
bulb-like swelling.

Alopecurus pratensis — Meadow Fox- tail Grass. Early and leafy, it
is esteemed a valuable grass.

AGROSTIDE^E— THE AGROSTIS TRIBE.

Agrostis vulgaris — Common Bent Grass. The opposite branches-
diverge even after flowering. A very common viatical plant.
Abundant round the borders of fields and other grassy places.

Arrhenatherum avenaceum — Oat-like Grass. Its presence is an
indication of comparatively poor soil.

Arrhenatherum bulbosum, B var. Farmers think it only too plentiful
here. In dry fields. The bulbs in Scotland are called Swine's
Arnuts, but locally known as Knot Grass.

Holcus lanatus — Meadow Soft Grass. Leaves hairy or downy on both
sides. It often forms a considerable part of the hay crop, and is
sometimes called Pluff Grass.

270 APPENDIX.

Holcus mollis — Creeping Soft Grass. Roots widely creeping. This
grass rather avoids cultivation. Woods and pastures. The roots
are useful for binding dry sandy embankments.

Melica nutans — Mountain Melic Grass. At the foot of the Bell Tower
knoll, near the water's edge. The lax brownish bead-like spiklets
are sure to attract attention. Rare in this parish.

AVENE^E— THE OAT GRASS TRIBE*

Koeleria cristata — Crested Hair Grass. Stems slender, from six to
eight inches. On dry pastures. Frequent.

Avena strigosa — Bristle-pointed Oat. Occasionally found growing
wild among the cereals, but never encouraged. " Havers."

Avena caryophyllea — Silver Hair Grass. A low plant. Six to eight
inches high. Pretty common on dry sandy fields. " Mouse
Grass."

Avena prsecox — Early Hair Grass. Two to six inches high. The
panicle compact, with short erect branches. Frequent.

Aira csespitosa — Turfy Hair Grass. This is a splendid plant with
stems from two to four feet in height. The root leaves usually
form large hemispherical tufts. The variety Aira Alpina would
appear to be produced by the peculiar atmospheric and geographical
influences of the situations where it occurs. Dwarfed specimens
have been found at an elevation of 4000 feet from the sea level.

Aira flexuosa — Wavy Hair Grass. It occurs very frequently on all the
local moors, and usually attracts attention as a tall slender grass.
From the short almost capillary leaves, it might be suitable for
lawns.

FESTUCE^E— THE FESTUCA TRIBE.

Poa annua — Annual Meadow Grass. In Britain this grass is all but
universal. It follows man in all his migrations and may be found
in flower or seed during the greater part of the year. It climbs
the mountain to a height of 3300 feet.

Poa trivialis — Roughish Meadow Grass.

Poa pratensis— Smooth-stalked Meadow Grass. The short truncate

ligule, on the upper sheath, is the best character to distinguish this

plant from the preceding.

<jrlyceria fluitans — Floating Sweet Grass. In stagnant and running

water.
Molinia caerulea — Heath Purple Melic Grass. The sheath of the lower

leaf covers the knots which are all very low on the stem.

•Cynosurus cristatus — Crested Dog's Tail Grass. The panicle close,
with the tiny branchlets on one side.

Dactylis glomerata — Rough Cock's-foot Grass. It is quite common by
the borders of fields and waste places, growing and flowering
almost the whole summer. Striking its roots to a considerable
depth, it stands drought well, and is sometimes cultivated in
Ardclach.

Festuca bromoides— Barren Fescue Grass.

APPENDIX. 271

Festuea ovina — Sheep's Fescue Grass. According to Linnaeus, sheep
have little relish for hills on which this grass is not rather plentiful.

Festuea vivipara, var. c. The spikelet converted into a bud. Com-
mon after an elevation of 800 feet in Ardclach. In this form the
spikelet is converted into a bud.

Festuea duriuscula, var. d. — Hard Fescue Grass. Withstands dry
weather better than most grasses, and helps to form good pasturage.

Festuea rubra — Creeping Fescue Grass. A rich cropper but not very
nutrituous.

Festuca sylvatica — Wood Fescue Grass. We found a few specimens in
the New Inn (Balinriach) Fir Wood at Glenferness.

Bromus mollis — Soft Brome Grass. Locally known as ' ' Goose Grass. ""

Brachypodium sylvaticum — Slender False Brome Grass. This genua
is distinguished from Wheat (Triticum) by the unequal glumes.

TRITICE^E— THE TRITICUM TRIBE.

Lolium perenne — Common Rye Grass. Sometimes the axis is short-
ened, and the spikelets approach so as to form a broad two-rowed
spike. This species is one of the most valued grasses by the
farmer.

Triticum repens — Creeping Wheat Grass. Locally called " Quickens,
or Couch Grass." If the smallest portion containing a joint be
left in the soil, it sends up a fresh bud ; hence the great difficulty
which the farmer experiences in getting rid of so troublesome an
indweller.

NARDE^E— THE MAT GRASS TRIBE.

Nardus stricta— Common Mat Grass. The leaves and stems remain
through the Winter and perish only during the succeeding Spring:
and Summer. It occurs plentifully on barren heaths and moors.

CYPERACE^E— THE SEDGE FAMILY.

CARICE^E— THE CAREX TRIBE.

(These plants are remarkable for the very sharp corners of the stems,

and also for the cutting edges of the leaves).
Carex pulicaris — Flea Carex.

Carex incurva— Curved Carex. Plentiful on the Links at Nairn.
Found one specimen on the moor near the old Schoolhouse.

Carex paniculata — Great Panicled Carex.

Carex stellulata — Little Prickly Carex. Boggy meadows. Pretty
little plant.

Carex curta — White Carex. Rare over the country but rather common
in Ardclach. Occurs in old ditches among sluggish water.

Carex alpicola, var. B. Rare. Found a few plants on the Findhorn.

Carex vulgaris — Tufted Bog Carex. Common.

Carex panicea — Pink-leaved Carex.

Carex sylvatica — Pendulous Wood Carex. Ferness Fir Wood.

Carex flava — Yellow Carex.

272 APPENDIX.

Carex binervis — Green-ribbed Carex.
Carex pilulifera — Round headed Carex.

Carex am pullacea— Slender-beaked Bottle Carex. This is a very com-
mon plant in almost every loch and permanent pool in Ardclach.

SCIRPE^E— THK SCIBPUS TRIBE.

Heleocharis palustris— Creeping Spike Rush. Locn of Belivat.
Heleocharis multicaulis — Many-stalked Spike Rush. Common.
Scirpus caBspitosus— Scaly-stalked Club Rush.

Scirpus flui tans —Floating Club Rush. Frequent in shallow pools
among stagnant or sluggish water.

Scirpus setaceus — Bristle-stalked Club Rush. Muddy habitats.

Eriophorum vaginatum — Hare's-tail Cotton Grass. Said to help
largely in fattening sheep and black game.

Eriophorum angustifolium — Common C9tton Grass. The white tails
produce a very pretty effect on many of the peaty bogs \vithin the
parish.

JUNCACE^E— THE RUSH FAMILY.
Juncus effusus — Soft Rush.

Juncus conglomeratus — Common Rush. These two species are very
similar to each other. This family loves boggy situations in the
colder regions of the world, and are often troublesome weeds to the
farmer. They grow best on rich cold soil. Both plants are
locally known as " Rashes."

Juncus Balticus — Baltic Rush. Plentiful at the Levrattich bend of
the river Findhorn, which is the farthest inland station in
Nairnshire.

Juncus squarrosus — Moss Rush-goose Corn. Common on the light
mossy heaths, forming dense rough tufts.

Juncus bufonius — Toad Rush. Common in shallow ditches.

Juncus obtusiflorus — Blunt-flowered Jointed Rush. Sowerby says : —
" It is found in ditches and wet places. Rather rare. Sparingly
distributed over England ; very scarce in Scotland, but I have
never seen a Scottish specimen." In July, 1887, I discovered a
few plants at the Levrattich bend of the river. One good specimen
was taken for my Herbarium and several left to continue the race.
This is the only station I know of in the North. It has now dis-
appeared from its old habitat.

Juncus acutiflorus— Sharp-flowered Jointed Rush.
Juncus lamprocarpus — Shining-fruited Jointed Rush.
Juncus supinus -Whorl-headed Rush.
Juncus tenuis vel gesneri — Spreading Rush.
Luzula pilosa — Broad-leaved Hairy Wood Rush.

Luzula sylvatica — Great Wood Rush. A very ornamental plant along
the banks of all the local watercourses among trees.

Luzula campestris- Field Wood Rush. Dry pastures. Frequent.

APPENDIX. 273

Luzula multiflora— Many -flowered Wood Rush. Moist turfy soil.
Common.

Luzula congesta, var. b. Clusters in a compact lobed head. Plentiful.

TYPHACEJS — THE BULL RUSH FAMILY.

Sparganium ramosum — Branched Bur-Reed. Black Burn at Little-
mill. The round stems, soft leaves, and globular prickly heads of
fruit well distinguish this genus.

LEMNACEJE— THE DUCK-WEED FAMILY.

Lemna minor — Lesser Duck-weed. An inhabitant of stagnant pools,
often covering the entire surface.

POTAMACE^E— THE POND-WEED FAMILY.

Potamogeton natans — Broad-leaved Pond- weed.

Potamogeton oblonga — Oblong-leaved Pond-weed. Small streams and

ponds.
JUNCAGINACE^E— THE ARROW GRASS FAMILY.

Triglochin palustre — Marsh Arrow Grass. The straight stems, root
leaves, floral spikes, and the angular fruit opening at the base,
showing the triangular seed, should be enough to settle this species.
In boggy places, but not very abundant in Ardclach.

ALISMACEJE— THE WATER PLANTAIN FAMILY.

Alisma plantago— Greater Water Plantain. Bog of Fornighty.
LILIACEJE— THE LILY FAMILY.
HYACINTHEJE.

Agraphis nutans — Wood Hyacinth. Rare in Ardclach.

Narthecium ossifragum — Bog Asphodel. This species has sword-
shaped leaves and bright yellow flowers. Turfy bogs.

ORCHIDACE^E— THE ORCHIS FAMILY.

Orchis mascula — Early Purple Orchis. On damp pastures.

Orchis maculata— Spotted-leaved Orchis. Common. Known in by-
gone days as the " Witch Flower," from the udder and teat-like
appearance of the double bulbous root. Through this organ the
" wise women," versed in the Black Art were believed to draw
whatever milk they required from their neighbours' cows.

Orchis latifolia — Broad-leaved Meadow Orchis.
Gymnadenia conopsea — Fragrant-scented Orchis.

Gymnadenia albida — White Fragrant-scented Orchis. The odour of
the flowers is very agreeable.

Habenaria bifolia — Two-leaved Orchis. Occasional, Ferness, Acha-
gour, on the dry moor.

NEOTTIE^S.

Goodyera repens— Creeping Goodyera. Common in the Dulsie and
Glenferness fir woods, but a rare plant over Scotland.

Listera ovata — Common Twayblade. Greenish flowers. Occurs in
the New Inn (Balinreach) fir wood.

274 APPENDIX.

AMARYLLIDACE^E— THE NARCISSUS FAMILY.

Galanthus nivalis — Common Snowdrop. Though originally an alien
in Britain, this plant is now well established in the Castle Folly
wood near Lethen House, and other parts. It is readily known
by its solitary white pendulous flower, sometimes even peeping
through the snow.

Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus — Daffodil. Lent Lily. . Distinguished by
the yellow flowers growing upon a scape. Here it is chiefly
confined to cultivation, and only apparently wild about former
homesteads.

IRIDACE^E— THE IRIS FAMILY.

Iris Pseud-acorus — Flag Water Iris, or Fleur-de-lis. Rare, if not
even extinct in this parish.

DICOTYLEDONS.

CONIFERS— THE PINE FAMILY.
ABIETINE^: — THE FIR, PINE, SPRUCE, AND LARCH TRIBE.

Pinus sylvestris — Scotch Pine or Fir. This is the most hardy and
valuable of all the pines. A few specimens of the ancient Scotch
forests are still to be found in the ravines along the Findhorn.

Pinus pinaster— Pinaster or Clustered Pine. A noble species Intro-
duced to Glenferness from the sandy plains of Southern Europe.

Abies excelsa — Norway Spruce Fir. When growing singly in rich
soil, apart from other trees, it forms one of the most beautiful
objects that can be imagined, with its long drooping branches
almost touching the ground.

Abies Douglasii — The Douglas Fir. This is a gigantic tree and pro-
duces a heavy firm timber, not in the least liable to warp. It is
an evergreen of very rapid growth. On the river near the church.

Picea pectinata— Silver Fir. Introduced.

Larix Europoea — Larch. In this district it grows well and is a very
profitable tree — being liable to few accidents and transplants with
little risk.

Juniperus communis — Juniper. Like other Coniferae, the fruit is a
cone, composed of scales collected in a spiral form round a common
axis. In medicine they are known as berries, though in the polite
language of the botanist they are termed Galbuli. Locally they
are spoken of as " Aitnach or Melmot berries."

TAXINE.*.

Taxus baccata— Common Yew. Planted as an ornamental tree. The
fruit is only popularly supposed to be poisonous, though the leaves
are certainly very dangerous. It lives to a great age.

SALICACE^ — THE WILLOWS OR CATKIN-BEARING FAMILIES.
(The most Northern woody plant at present known is the Salix arctica.)
Salix alba—Common White Willow.
Salix purpurea — Bitter Purple Willow.

APPENDIX. 275

Salix viminalis — Common Osier.

Salix cinerea — Grey Willow.

Salix caprea — Round-leaved Willow.

Salix re pens — Creeping Willow. Levrattich, Lynemore.

Populus tremula — Aspen. Quaking Ash. The trembling leaves have
always attracted attention and have often been the objects of
superstitious belief and poetical allusion.

Populus nigra — Black Poplar. It loves a damp habitat.
CORYLACE^E— THE NUT TREE, OR HAZEL FAMILY.

Fagus sylvatica — Wood, or Common Beech. The foliage is so dense
that other plants do not thrive under it. The fruit is called
Beech-mast, and contains a nut or seed which when ripe often
falls out, leaving the husk upon the tree.

Castanea vulgaris — Spanish Chestnut.

Quercus pedunculata— Oak. This tree has the reputation of being the
true British Oak whose wood is so frequently used for naval
purposes.

Corylus avellana — Hazel. It climbs well nigh to the summit of our
loftiest mountains.

-flSsculus Hippocastanum — Horse Chestnut. There are no very old
specimens in this country as it was only introduced about 1683.

BETULACE^E— THE BIRCH FAMILY.

Betula alba — Common Birch. It thrives in poor sandy soil. The
finest Weeping Birches in Britain stand on the Findhorn near
Forres.

Alnus glutinosa — Common Alder. Its favourite situation is beside
streams, and locally known as " Arns."

MYRICACE^E— THE GALE FAMILY.

Myrica Gale — Gale. Bog Myrtle. The fruit is covered with resinous
glands and the leaves are pleasantly fragrant when bruised.

EMPETRACE^E— THE CROWBERRY FAMILY.

Empetrum nigrum — Crowberry. The " Croupans " of Nairnshire.
EUPHORBIACEA— THE SPURGE FAMILY.

Euphorbia Helioscopia — Sun Spurge. A poisonous principle resides
chiefly in its milky secretion.

URTICACE^E— THE NETTLE FAMILY.
Urtica urens— Annual Stinging Nettle.

Urtica dioica — Perennial Stinging Nettle. The young sprouts of this
plant were often eaten in Spring by the peasantry in Scotland.

ULMACE^E— THE ELM FAMILY.

Ulmus campestris — Common Elm. Introduced.

Ulnius montana— Broad-leaved Elm. The Wych or Scotch Elm. The
seeds of the elm do not produce plants exactly like their parents.

276 APPENDIX.

POLYGONACE^E— THE BUCKWHEAT FAMILY.

(Distinguished by its scarious stipules and crustaceous fruit)
inclosed by the calyx.)

Polygonum amphibium — Amphibious Persicaria or Bistort. It is a
very showy plant but difficult to eradicate from reclaimed marshy
lands where it has once got a firm hold.

Polygonum viviparum — Alpine Bistort. Generally scarce but frequent
here.

Polygonum Persicaria — Spotted Persicaria. The Legend informs us
that this plant was one of those which flourished on Mount
Calvary, and that the dark spot in the centre of the leaf is a
permanent stain caused by the sacred blood which dropped upon
it during the Crucifixion.

Polygonum aviculare — Common Knot-Grass. The numerous seeds
supply abundant food for small birds during Winter.

Polygonum latifolium — Sub var. Leaves much larger than in the

typical form.

Polygonum convolvulus — Black Bindweed. Cornfields and gardens.
Rumex obtusifolius — Blunt-leaved Dock. " Dockens."
Rumex crispus — Curled Dock. " Dockens."

Rumex acetosa— Common Sorrel. " Souracks." A gregarious plant
often tinging a dry field with a dark red colour.

Rumex acetosella — Sheep's Sorrel. " Souracks."
CHENOPODIACEJE— THE GOOSE-FOOT FAMILY.

Chenopodium album — White Goose-foot. Locally " Melgs."
Atriplex patula — Spreading Orache.

Atriplex angustifolia — Narrow-leaved Orache. Both species are weeds r
and sometimes great pests in gardens and cornfields.

CALLITRICHACE^— THE WATER-STARWORT FAMILY.
Callitriche verna — Vernal Water- Starwort.

Callitriche Autumnalis — Autumnal Water-Starwort. Very rare. I
discovered this plant in the Coulmony Burn, 3rd November, 1894.

HIPPURIDACEJE— THE MARE'S-TAIL FAMILY.

Hippuris vulgaris — Mare's- tail. It grows plentifully in several mooral
pools within the parish.

PLANTAGINACEJE— THE PLANTAIN FAMILY.

Plantago major— Greater Plantain. The " Warba Blades " of Nairn

and Moray. It has a tendency to spring up wherever man decides

to plant his abode, and " the more it is trodden on the better it

grows." In some of our colonies it is known to the natives as the

" Englishman's Foot."

Plantago lanceolata— Rib Grass. Locally " Carle Doddies."
Plantago maritima — Sea Plantain. This species grows plentifully on

the sea shores and sparingly on the higher mountains. Belivat

and Cairn of Achagour.
Littorella lacustris — Common Shore-weed. Margin of the Loch of

Belivat under the shallow water.

APPENDIX. 277

PRIMULACE^E— THE PRIMROSE FAMILY.

Primula veris — Cowslip. Found one specimen apparently wild near
Moss- Side.

Primula vulgaris — Common Primrose. This is a great favourite and
one of the earliest Spring flowers Abundant on the river banks.

Lysimachia nemorum — Wood Loosestrife. Findhorn. Occasional.

Trientalis europaea — European Chickweed Winter Green. The slender
grace of the whole plant is extreme — a special beauty, a real fairy.
Abundant on the dry moors. Generally rare over Scotland.

LENTIBULACE^E— THE BCTTERWORT FAMILY.

Pinguicula vulgaris — Common Butterwort. " Sheep rot." The name
is derived from the sticky nature of the foliage. If the juice be
mixed with milk it acts like rennet and produces curd.

LABIAT^E— THE LABIATE FAMILY.

Mentha arvensis— Field Mint. Often a troublesome weed.

Thymus Serpyllum — Wild Thyme. The whole plant has an agreeable
odour.

Nepeta cataria — Catmint. Cultivated.

Glechoma hederaceae — Ground Ivy. Locally " Grundavy." This is
the Forget-me-not of the early botanists, because it " Left an evil
taste in the mouth, not soon removed."

Lamium amplexicaule — Henbit. A common garden weed.
Lamium purpureum — Red Henbit. Formerly used in medicine.

. Galeopsis Tetrahit— Common Hemp Nettle. The "Dai Nettle" of
Moray.

Stachys sylvatica— Hedge Woundwort. This herb is pungent, and has
a disagreeable smell. Inhabits shady places.

Stachys palustris — Marsh Woundwort. It is no friend to the farmer
as it increases very rapidly and exhausts the soil. This is known
as the " Hound's Tongue "in Moray and Nairn.

Marrubium vulgare — Common Horehound. Chiefly in gardens. In
pulmonary ailments, it enjoys great favour, as a popular remedy.

Prunella vulgaris — All-heal. Its ancient repute is now reduced to a
mere name. Pastures and grassy places.

Ajuga reptans — Common Bugle.

Teucrium Scorodonia — Wood Sage. The smell and taste of this plant
resemble very much that of hops. •" How can a man die, who has
sage in his garden ? "

SCROPHULARIACEJE— THE FIG-WORT FAMILY.

Veronica hederifolia — Ivy-leaved Speedwell. Occasional.

Veronica agrestis — Procumbent Speedwell. Fields and gardens.

Veronica arvensis — Wall Speedwell. A common weed.

Veronica officinalis — Common Speedwell. Heaths and woods. An old
Danish botanist tried to show that this wildling was exactly the
same as the Tea-Plant of China, and it was, at one time, frequently
tried as a substitute.

278 APPENDIX.

Veronica Chamsedrys — Germander Speedwell.

Veronica Beccabunga — Brooklime. Occurs in every country in Europe

Scrophularia nodosa— Knobby-rooted Figwort. Slightly poisonous.

Digitalis purpurea — Purple Fox-glove. The " Dead man's bells. '
Has a powerful influence on the system, and a valuable remedy in
many diseases.

Pedicularis sylvatica — Common Lousewort. In moist heathy places.

Pedicularis palustris — Marsh Lousewort. The Flower is large and
crimson, varying to white.

Rhinanthus Crista-galli — Common Yellow Meadow Rattle.

Melampyrum pratense — Meadow- wheat. The large solitary seeds,
resembling grains of wheat, distinguish the genus.

Euphrasia officinalis — Common Eyebright. This plant is peculiarly
liable to variation —scarcely a character permanent except the
pubescence of the corolla. It objects to submit to cultivation.

SOLANACE^E— THE NIGHTSHADE FAMILY.

Solanum Dulcamara — Woody Nightshade. The specific name refers
to the curious change in taste which takes place when a portion of
the stem is chewed — first sweet, then bitter. It is frequent in the
lower district but rare in the heights. The fruit is known as the
" Mad Dog's Berries."

BORAGINACE^E— THE BORAGE FAMILY.

Anchusa sempervirens — Evergreen Alkanet. Generally rare, but
thrives well at Coulmony House.

Lycopsis arvensis— Ox-tongue. The flowers are small, and purple
before opening ; afterwards sky blue. The whole plant is hispid,
with strong hairs, each rising from a scaly tubercle.

Myosotis palustris — Forget-me-not This is a beautiful plant and has,
for long, been regarded as an emblem of true affection.

Myosotis intermedia — Intermediate Scorpion Grass. Common in hay
fields.

Myosotis versicolor — The small flowers are at first pale-yellow, after-
wards blue.

Echium vulgare — Viper's Bugloss. Rare here. Occurs on the Bell
Tower Hill.

GENTIANACEJE— THE GENTIAN FAMILY.

Menyanthes trifoliata— Bogbean (Buckbean.) " Water Triffle." The

whole plant, but especially the root, is intensely bitter.
Gentiana campestris — Field Gentian. Plentiful on the moors.
APOCYNACE^E — THE PERIWINKLE FAMILY.

Vinca minor — Lesser Periwinkle. Castle Folly Wood.
OLEACE^E— THE OLIVE FAMILY.

Fraxinus excelsior — Common Ash. It is indicative of a very favour-
able season for the farmer, should the oak come into leaf before
the ash. " Fraxinus in sylvis pulcherrima, pinus in hortis " — Virg.
Ligustrum vulgare — Common Privet. Introduced.

APPENDIX. 279

AQUIFOLIACE^E— THE HOLLY FAMILY.

Ilex Aquifolium— Common Holly. A general favourite and largely
used to decorate rooms at Christmas. Although it reaches its most
northerly limits in Scotland, yet it is in this country that it attains
its greatest size and beauty.

ERICACEAE— THE HEATH FAMILY.

Erica cinerea — Fine-leaved Heath. " Cat Heather." On dry heaths.

Erica Tetralix — Cross-leaved Heath. "Bog Heather." Were a
botanist requested to name some one Natural Order as pre-eminent
for beauty, it is probable he would select this one.

Calluna vulgaris — Common Ling. " True Heather." Plentiful on
every moor. There is only one species in this genus.

Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi — Bearberry. The fruit is known as
" Gnashacks " in Nairnshire.

VACCINIACE.3S— THE BILBERRY OR CRANBERRY FAMILY.

Vaccinium myrtillus — Bilberry. The " Blaeberry " of Scotland.

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea — Cowberry. As the true Cranberry (Oxycoccus")
does not occur in Nairnshire, this is the fruit invariably known
by that name.

CAMPANULACE^E— THE CAMPANULATE FAMILY.

Campanula rotundifolia — The Nodding-flowered Harebell. This is the
" Blue Bell " of Scotland. The white flowered variety is to be met
with in Ardclach.

COMPOSITE— THE COMPOSITE FAMILY.

Carduus lanceolatus — Spear Thij- tie. Bur Thistle. The true " Scotch

Thistle."

Carduus arvensis — Field Thistle. A troublesome weed to the farmer.
Carduus palustris — Marsh Thistle. Various shades — purple-red,

cream coloured, or almost white.

Carduus heterophyllus — Melancholy Thistle. Frequent on the Findhorn.
Arctium commune — Bur-dock. The " Burrs " of Nairn and Moray.
Centaurea nigra — Black Knapweed.

Centaurea Cyanus — Blue-bottle. Corn-flower. Locally " Blue
Bonnets." The favourite flower of the late Kaiser William of
Germany.

Achillea Millefolium — Milfoil. Yarrow.

Achillea Ptarmica — Sneezewort. It is so named from its strong odour.

Anthemis arvensis — Corn Chamomile. In gardens and fields. The
wild blossoms are much more effective than the cultivated ones.

Pyrethrum inodorum— Scentless Feverfew. In Cottage gardens.

Pyrethrum Leucanthemum — Great Ox-eye Daisy. " Horse Gowans."

Chrysanthemum segetum— Corn Marigold. This is the troublesome

" Guile " of Nairn and Moray.
Bellis perennis— Common Daisy. Locally "Gowans." "The gold

embossed gem in a setting of silver." The daisy is almost

ubiquitous.

280 APPENDIX.

Artemisia vulgarU — Mugwort. *' Muggart Kail " of Moray.

Filago germanica— Erect Cudweed. The " Herba impia " of the early
botanical writers.

Filago minima— Least Cudweed.
Gnaphalium rectum — Upright Cudweed.

Antennaria dioica — Mountain Cudweed. This plaot is very nearly
allied to the Edelweiss (Leontopodium Alpinum) or Swiss Bridal
Flower. The Pes Cati of the older herbalists.

Solidago Virga-aurea — Golden-rod. Frequent.

Senecio vulgaris — Groundsel. The " Grunny Swally " of Moray. It
is in flower nearly the whole year.

Senecio sylvaticus — Wood Groundsel, Dry banks on the Findhorn.
Senecio Jacobaea— Ragweed Locally known as " Stinking Willie."
Tussilago Farfara — Common Colt's-foot Occasional.

Lapsana communis — Nipplewort. A weed, and a common viatical
plant.

Oporinia autumnalis — Autumnal Hawkbit.

Leontodon Taraxacum — Dandelion. Root valuable in medicine.
Sometimes known as " Horse Go wans."

Sonchus oleraceus — Sow-Thistle. Occasional. An almost universal
plant.

Crepis paludosa — Marsh Crepis.

Crepis virens — Smooth Hawk's-beard A very common weed among
hay.

Hieracium Pilosella — Mouse-ear Hawkweed.
Hieracium murorum — Mural Hawkweed.
Hieracium caesium — Bluish-grey Hawkweed.
Hieracium paludosum— Succory-leaved Hawkweed. Ferness.
Hieracium vulgatum — Common Hawkweed.
Hieracium boreale — Broad-leaved Hawkweed.
DIPSACE^E— THE SCABIOUS OR TEASEL FAMILY

Scabiosa succisa — Devil's-bit Scabious. The flowers are dark violet
varying to flesh-colour and almost white. In cultivation it
becomes more branched than in a wild state.

VALERIANACE^E— THE VALERIAN FAMILY

Valeriana officinalis — Common Valerian. The root has a very strong
smell. The plant is attractive to cats, and rat-catchers use it to
decoy their victims.

RUBIACE^E— THE MADDER FAMILY.
Sherardia arvensis— Field Madder.

Asperula odorata — Scented Woodruff. The whole plant is remarkable
for its fragrance when dried, and retains its scent for several yearn

Galium verum— Yellow Lady's Bed-Straw.

APPENDIX. 281

Galium saxatile — Mountain Bed-Straw. Heaths, very common.
Galium palustre — Marsh Goose-Grass. Watery places, not unf requent.

Galium Aparine— Goose-Grass. " Cleavers. " The " Bleedy Tongues "
of Moray and Nairn. The witty Greeks of old named these plants
" Philanthropos " from the persistency with which their fruits
clung to human garments.

Galium boreale — Cross-leaved Bed-Straw. I discovered this plant on
the 21st September, 1885, near Lord Cawdor's suspension bridge
at Banchor. This is the only habitat known in Nairnshire.
Specimen in my Herbarium.

CAPRIFOLIACEJE— THE HONEYSUCKLE FAMILY.

Sambucus nigra — Common Elder. Generally near dwelling houses.

Lonicera Periclymenum— Common Honeysuckle. Woodbine. It
seems to have a " perceptive power." When the branches shoot
out and come in contact with a suitable support they twine round
it from right to left. If, however, two honeysuckle branches
meet, they twine in opposite directions — the one to the right and
the other to the left. On the banks of the Findhorn.

Linnzea borealis — Two-flowered Linnaea. I discovered a bed of this
plant in the Dulsie Fir Wood near Daltra on the 28th June, 1890
Dried specimen in my Herbarium. This is the only station hi
Nairnshire since 1830, when a plant was found by the late W. A.
Stables in Cawdor Wood.

ARALIACE^E— THE IVY FAMILY.

Hedera Helix — Common Ivy. On the rocks of the Findhorn and old
walls. As it flowers late in Autumn, the umbels are much resorted
to by bees and flies when little other food is to be had.

GROSSULARIACE^E— THE GOOSEBERRY AXD CURRANT FAMILY.

Ribes Grossularia — Gooseberry. Although it frequently occurs wild
in the woods, it is doubtful whether this plant is truly indigenous
to the country. The fruit is vulgarly called a " Grosset." The
common name may be a corruption of " gorseberry."

Ribes rubrum — Red Currant. Usually cultivated.

Ribes nigrum — Black Currant. Gardens. The leaves have a peculiarly

strong smell which is very characteristic. The whole plant is

aromatic.

Ribes sanguineum — The Bloody or Red-Flowered Currant. This is the
most ornamental species of the genus, and flowers early.

SAXIFRAGACE^E— THE SAXIFRAGE FAMILY.

Chrysosplenium oppositifolium — Opposite-leaved Golden Saxifrage.

Saxifraga stellaris — Starry Saxifrage — Occasional on the moist rocks
along the Findhorn.

Saxifraga akoides — Yellow Mountain Saxifrage. Generally a rare

plant, but frequent in the same situations as the former.
UMBELLIFERJE— THB UMBELLIFEROUS FAMILY.

Hydrocotyle vulgaris — Common White-rot. Flowers rarely developed^
Sanicula Europaea — Wood Sanicle. Frequent.

282 APPENDIX.

JEgopodium Podagraria— Gout Weed. " Bishop Weed."

Carum carui — Caraway. Free Church. An escape from cultivation,
and can only be regarded as a naturalised plant.

Bunium flexuosum-Earth-Nut. Pig-Nut. "Knotty Meal." "Cronies.""
It has an aromatic sweet taste, and pigs are very fond of rooting
it up. The tuberous roots are sometimes as large as a hen's egg.

Angelica sylvestris — Wild Angelica. Frequent by tne water courses.
Heracleum Sphondylium — Cow Parsnip.

Anthriscus sylvestris — Wild Chervil. The flower has little or no-
calyx. Abundant on the island of Lochindorbh.

Myrrhis odorato — Cicely or Great Chervil. The odour of the whole
plant is highly aromatic.

ONAGRACE^E— THE EVENING PRIMROSE FAMILY.

Epilobium angustifolium — French Willow-Herb. On the rock walk
below the Parish Church. The flowers have blue pollen.

Epilobium moutanura — Mountain Willow - Herb. Dry uplands.
Common.

Epilobium palustre — Marsh Willow-Herb. Ferness. In sluggish,
streams.

Circoea lutetiana — Enchanter's Nightshade. The supposed properties
which gave rise to this name are purely imaginary. Daltra.

POMACE^E— THE APPLE-TREE FAMILY.

Crataegus Oxyacantha — Common Hawthorn. " Chaws " of Moray.
Pyrus Malus — Apple-tree. Crab-tree. Cultivated.

Sorbus Aucuparia — Rowan-tree. Mountain Ash. " Roddan Tree."
From a remote period the tree has enjoyed a distinguished reputa-
tion as a charm against witchcraft and other evil influences.

AMYGDALACE^E — THE ALMOND FAMILY

Prunus spinosa — Sloe-tree. The original of several domestic fruits.

Prunus padus — Bird Cherry. Plentiful on the Findhorn. " Hagberry. n

Prunus Juliana — Gean.

Prunus Cerasus— Cherry. Cultivated.
ROSACE^E— THE ROSE FAMILY.

Spiraea Ulmaria — Meadow-sweet. The specific name is said to be
derived from " ulmus " — " Quod non inter ulmos crescit! "

Spiraea Filipendula — Dropwort. Rare.

Potentilla Tormentilla— Tormentil. Common on heathy places.

Potentilla anserina — Silverweed. The " Mascorns " of Moray. Fre-
quent.

Potentilla Comarum — Purple Marsh Cinquefoil. In boggy places.
Occasional.

Fragaria vesca — Strawberry. Common along the river banks. It
produces many of the varieties cultivated in gardens.

Rubus idaeus — Raspberry. This is a somewhat difficult genus.

APPENDIX. 283

Rubus discolor— Two-coloured-leaved Bramble. Valued for preserves.
Rubus saxatilis — Rock Bramble. Locally known as " Dog Berries."

Rubus Chamcemorus — Cloud or Roebuck-berry. The " Aiverns" of
Moray. Occurs sparingly on Carn Glas, The Southern summit of
Nairn.

Geum urbanum — Herb Bennet, or Common Avens. Moist shady
places.

•Geum rivale — Water Avens. Grassy places along the Findhorn.

Rosa canina — Dog-Rose. Flowers in three shades — pink, pale rose,
and almost white. This is the species used for making conserve
of roses.

Rosa rubiginosa — Eglantine or Sweet-Briar. Confined to gardens here.
Rosa spinosissima — Burnet-leaved Rose. Achagour, Cairnglass. Rare.

Alchemilla vulgaris — Common Lady's Mantle. It is seldom, if ever,
eaten by cattle.

Alchemilla alpina — Alpine Lady's Mantle. An Arctic species, so
modified as to bear the greater warmth of Britain. Frequent in
the higher elevations.

€RASSULACE^E— THE HOUSE-LEEK FAMILY.

Sempervivum tectorum — House-Leek. Jupiter's Beard. The " Fous "
of Scotland, celebrated as a popular cure for "corns." Brand
says, " It was planted on cottage roofs as a defence against thunder
and lighting." Charlemange's edict was: — " Et habeat quisque
supra domum suum Jovis bar bam."

ILLECEBRACE^E— THE KNOT-GRASS FAMILY.

Scleranthus annuus — Annual Knawel. This uninteresting weed is of
no known use, and occurs in barren sandy places.

PORTULACEJE— THE WA'TEB PURSLANE FAMILY.

Montia fontana — Water Blinks. Water Chickweed. There is but one
species in the genus, and may be found flourishing around almost
every mountain spring to an elevation of over 3000 feet.

LEGUMINIFER^E— THE PEA AND BEAN FAMILY.

Cytisus laburnum — Common Laburnum. Its seeds are highly
poisonous. Hares and rabbits are very fond of it, and yet escape
without serious results.

Sarothamnus scoparius — Common Broom. A white variety is oc-
casionally to be met with here.

Genista anglica — Petty Whin. The " Planta Genista " was the badge
of a long line of English kings from Henry II. Plentiful on damp
moors. It is the ' ' Carline's spurs " of Moray and Nairn.

Ulex Europaeus — Gorse. Whin. " Love is out of season when the
furze is out of blossom." This applies only to mild winters in
Ardclach.

Ononis arvensis— Rest-harrow. Known as "Wild Liquorice " in Nairn.

Anthyllis vulneraria — Common Lady's Finger. "Cats' claws " of
Moray.

284 APPENDIX.

Lotus eorniculatus — Common Bird's-foot Trefoil. An ornamental
viatical plant.

Melilotus vulgaris — "White Melilot. A fine specimen was found in July,.

1891 , near Nairn by Dr Sclanders. It is now in my Herbarium.
Trifolium procumbens — Hop Trefoil.

Trifolium pratense — Purple Clover. Pasture. Very* Common.
Vicia sativa— Common Vetch. Locally called " Fitchacks."
Vicia lathyroides — Spring Vetch. Not common.
Vicia sepium — Bush Vetch. Grassy places along the Findhorn.

Vicia cracca— Tufted Vetch. The " Mice Pease " of Moray and!
Nairn.

Vicia hirsuta — Hairy-podded Tare. Near the Parish Church.
Vicia angustifolia — Var.

Lathyrus pratensis — Meadow Vetchling. An ornamental plant.
Lathyrus macrorhizus — Heath Pea. Vulgarly called " Gnapperts.""
VIOLACE^E— THE VIOLET FAMILY.

Viola palustris — Marsh Violet. In turfy bogs, Glenferness.
Viola canina— Dog's Violet. The light blue flowers are scentless.

Viola lutea — Yellow Mountain Violet. The Purple and Yellow varieties-
occur abundantly in Ardclach.

Viola arvensis — Var. a. In fields and gardens. Petals rarely tinged
with violet.

CRUCIFER^E— THE CRUCIFEROUS FAMILY
Cardamine sylvatica — Wood Bitter Cress.

Cardamine hirsuta — Hairy Marsh Bitter Cress. If the ripe leaves be
laid on moist soil, they will put out buds and produce new plants.

Cardamine pratensis — Lady's Smock. "Cuckoo-Flower."

Nasturtium offieinale — Water Cress. It is a native of rivulets through-
out the world, and, as a salad, has a warm agreeable flavour.

Sisymbrium thalianum — Wall Cress. Sandy fields.

Sisymbrium offieinale — Officinal Hedge Mustard. The whole plant i&
hot and acrid. Rare in Ardclach.

Brassica Napus — Rape or Cole-seed. " Lochindorbh Kale." Till
recently it was abundant among the ruins of the old Castle.

Sinapis arvensis — Wild Mustard. Charlock. Common in fields.

Draba verna — Common Whitlow-grass. In Spring, it ornaments dry
spots and old walls before other flowers make their appearance.

Capsella Bursa-pastoris — Shepherd's-purse. The " Witches' Pouches "^
of Moray. As a weed, it follows man, and springs up wherever he
fixes his abode.

FUMARIACE^E— THE FUMITORY FAMILY.

Corydalis claviculata — White-flowered Fumitory. Rare in this parish.
Fumaria officinalis — Common Fumitory. Fields and gardens.

APPENDIX. 285

PAP AVERAGES— THE POPPY FAMILY.

Papaver dubium — Smooth-headed Poppy. The " Blavers " of Moray.
NYMPH^EACEJE— THE WATER LILY FAMILY.

Nymphaea alba— White Water Lily. One of the noblest of British
plants. Plentiful in the Loch of Belivat.

DROSERACEJE— THE SUNDEW FAMILY.

Parnassia palustris — Grass of Parnassus. The name is derived from
the myth that it first appeared on Mount Parnassus, the home of
Grace and Beauty. Burn of Aitnoch.

Drosera rotundifolia — Round-leaved Sundew. Plentiful on boggy
heaths. Catches insects and uses them for food.

Drosera intermedia — Narrow-leaved Sundew. Findhorn, Levrattich
bend on the river.

HYPERICACEJE— THE TUTSAN FAMILY.

Hypericum perforatum — Perforated St. John's-wort. Frequent.
PYROLACEJE— THE WINTER-GREEN FAMILY.

Pyrola rotundifolia — Larger Winter-Green. Though common in*
Ardclach, this is generally a rare plant.

ACERACE^E — THE MAPLE FAMILY.

Acer Pseudo-platanus — Sycamore. Introduced.
POLYGALACE^E— THE MILKWORT FAMILY.

Polygala vulgaris — Common Milkwort. It occurs in various shades of
blue, pink, and almost white. In dry grassy places.

TILIACEvE— THE LINDEN OR LIME TREE FAMILY.

Tilia Europaea — Linden-tree. Planted on lawns and pleasure grounds.
MALVACEAE— THE MALLOW FAMILY.

Malva moschata — Musk Mallow. Church Brae.
GERANIACE^E — THE GERANIUM FAMILY.

Geranium sylvaticum — Wood Crane's-bill. This is a very conspicuous-
ornament along the banks of the Findhorn.

Geranium pusillum — Small-flowered Crane's-bill. One specimen.
Geranium molle — Common Dove's-foot Crane's-bill.

Geranium Robertianum— Herb Robert. This plant has email bright
crimson flowers and is readily known by its strong unpleasant
smell.

OXALIDACE^E— THE WOOD SORREL FAMILY.

Oxalis Acetosella— Wood Sorrel. The true Shamrock. On a hot
sunny day the leaves are slightly irritable like the sensitive plant.

EL A TIN AC E^E— THE WATERWORT FAMILY.

Elatine hexandra — Small Waterwort. Forms green matted patches-
under shallow muddy water. Ferness.

LINAGES— THE FLAX FAMILY.

Linum catharticnm— Purging Flax. Grassy places. Frequent.

286 APPENDIX.

CARYOPHYLLACE^E— THE PINK FAMILY.

Silene inflata — Bladder Catch-fly. Generally abundant; occasional
here.

Lychnis diurna — Red Campion. When this and the following are
regarded as mere varieties they are named Lychnis dioica.

Lychnis vespertina — White Campion. Smells sweetly in the evening.
Lychnis Flos-cuculi — Ragged Robin. Frequent in marshy ground.

Lychnis Githago — Corn Cockle. Only in cultivation. The " Pap pie "
of Nairn. Introduced among seed wheat from England, into the
Garioch district in Aberdeenshire about the year 1818.

Spergula arvensis — Corn Spurrey. Yarr. A very troublesome weed
which is neither useful nor ornamental.

Sagina procumbens — Procumbent Pearlwort. Old walls and dry
places.

Arenaria serpyllifolia— Thyme-leaved Sand wort.

Stellaria media — Common Chickweed. The "Hen's Inheritance."
Occurs everywhere, and may be found in flower almost all the year.

Stellaria Holostea — Greater Stitchwort. This is the handsomest plant
of the genus.

Stellaria graminea — Grassy-leaved Stitchwort. Common on pastures
and bushy places.

Stellaria uliginosa — Bog Stitchwort. Frequent in grassy ditches.
Cerastiuni triviale— Narrow-leaved Mouse-ear Chickweed.

Cerastium semidecandrum — Little Mouse-ear Chickweed. An early

plant.

Cerastium glomeratum — Broad-leaved Mouse-ear Chickweed.
RANUNCULACE^E— THE CROW-FOOT FAMILY.

Anemone nemorosa — Wood Anemone. March. April.
Ranunculus hederaceus — Ivy-leaved Crowfoot.

Ranunculus aquatilis — Water Crowfoot. Only in the lower parts of
the parish.

Ranunculus Flammula— Lesser Spearwort. The " Wil-fire " of Moray.

Ranunculus acris — Upright Meadow. Crowfoot. It loses its noxious
qualities when dried.

Ranunculus repens — Creeping Crowfoot. The " Sitsiccar " of Moray.

Ranunculus bulbosus — Bulbous Crowfoot. Rare here.

Ficaria ranunculoides — Common Pilewort.

Caltha palustris — Marsh Marigold. Moist Meadows.

Trollius Europaeus — Mountain Globe-flower. "Lueken Gowan."

APPENDIX. 287

A LIST OF THE MACRO-LEPIDOPTERA FOUND IN THE PARISH
OF ARDCLACH.

RHOPALOCERA, OR BUTTERFLIES.

Argjnnis aglaia— A few specimens appear every year on the hillsides and
open woods partially covered with " Pteris aquilina." July.

Argynnis euphrosyne — Occurs in considerable numbers in the Glenferness
Woods, and along the whole valley of the Findhorn. May and June.

Argynnis selene— The flight of euphrosyne is about over before selene
makes its appearance, but the two insects are so much alike that the
Entomologist alone is able to mark the difference. July.

Vanessa urticse — As common as it is beautiful. It is a familiar domestic
visitor, and sometimes hibernates in our rooms during the Winter.
June to September.

Vanessa antiopa — The Camberwell Beauty. One specimen was found at
Ferness on the 26th September, 1896, and is now in my cabinet.
This insect occurs with very great irregularity even in its own habitats.
Some years it may be frequent, after which it will not be seen by any
one for a period of eight or ten years.

Pyrameis atalanta — Variable in its appearance in A rdclach. Several good1
females were taken at Ferness in September, 1884, and again in
August, 1893.

Pyrameis cardui — Took several insects in the garden of the Schoolhouse at
Ardclach in 1882 and 1884, but have not observed any since. The
conduct of cardui is very exceptional and cosmopolitan. It seems to
consider no law binding as to its appearance either in the caterpillar,
chrysalis, or butterfly state.

Erebia medea — Appears in great numbers every year on the banks of the
Findhorn. Forres is the most easterly station, in this district, where
it has been noticed. In the South it is the rarest of the rare. July.

Epinephele janira — Generally abundant in every meadow when the grass is
ready for cutting. July.

Coenonympha davus — Occurs on the moors, but far from common.

Coenonympha pamphilus — Frequent on the heaths and rough pastures, and
ascends to the highest elevations in the parish. May be seen in every
month from May to October.

Thecla rubi — Never plentiful, but may usually be met with in the woods and
on the dry heaths all over the district. The two tails on the hind wings
somewhat resemble antenna?. "When at rest, it keeps them moving
up and down, so as to perplex an enemy with the idea that it has a
watchful head behind as Avell as one before. " The under side of the
wings is green, and, when closed, are scarcely distinguishable from the
young leaves of the birch and bramble on which it often rests. April
to June.

288 APPENDIX.

Polyommatus phloeas — Common in the lower reaches of Nairnshire, but
crosses the Findhorn very sparingly towards the moors. In the season
there seems to be three broods of this beautiful little insect. They
appear in April, June, and September.

Lycoena icarus — Frequent all over Nairnshire. The upper side of the
wings is intensely azure in the males, but dingy brown, more or less
glossed with lilac blue reflections, in the females. May and June.

Anthocharis cardarnines — Plentiful in the valleys beyond the Southern
boundaries of the parish, but rare in the lower districts. Took one
male specimen on the Findhorn 23rd June, 1888. Now in my cabinet.

Pieris napi — Always abundant. May and August.

Pieris rapoe— Plentifully distributed throughout the whole country. This
insect frequently crosses wide stretches of sea from continent to con-
tinent. April to August.

Pieris brassicce — Only too common every year, and very destructive in its
larval condition to the cabbage from which it derives its name. Like
the foregoing relative, it is very fond of migrating from one locality to
another. May to August.

Hesperia tages — Occasional on the dry moors and hill sides. " The flight
of this small butterfly is, indeed, brisk, but without the grace and
business-like activity of the group to which it belongs and is, therefore,
often popularly mistaken for a moth. May.

HETEROCERA, OR MOTHS.

Smerinthus populi — Rare. One specimen, now in my cabinet, was caught

by Willie Scott, Glenferness, 5th July, 1887.
Sphinx convolvuli — Found one specimen resting on sole of our window at

Ferness, 21st September, 1896.
Macroglossa stellatarum — Mrs Thomson found one specimen in our window

at Ferness on 5th July, 1895.

Macroglossa bombyliformis — I caught one specimen, in fine conditiota, on
the 25th May, 1895, at Ferness. Being a fairly common insect in the
North of England, and as the food plant (Scabiosa) is plentiful in thje
district, it might be expected to occur in Nairnshire. Should this be
the case, its presence is amply protected from observation by extra-
ordinary powers of flight, combined with such a striking resemblance
to the humble bees, Bombus fragrans et muscorum, that even to the
practised eye, there is often some difficulty in distinguishing the
individual species when on the wing.

Cossus ligniperda — A worn female specimen was found by Johnnie Mac-
kenzie, Ferness, in the wood which skirts the playground on Monday,
12th July, 1897. He gave it to me and next day she laid her clutch of
eggs on the drying board. That it does occur at this elevation (035
feet) is evident from the half grown larvae (two years old) having been
observed by myself feeding under the bark of birch trees, but the per-
fect insects are so strong on the wing that, hitherto, I have failed to
take any of them.

Hepialus lupulinus — Frequent. The family are all noted for their rapid
flight, and hence called Swif te. June.

APPENDIX, 289

Hepialus velleda — Pretty common. July.

Hepialus humuli — Abundant all over the County. For the most part the
ravages of this insect are confined in Nairnshire to the roots of the
nettle and burdock. During the fine Summer evenings great numbers
are annually caught and devoured on the wing by the Black-headed
Gulls (Larus ridibundus.)

Chelonia plantaginis — Frequent on the dry moors and in open woods. The
moth flies in the hot sunshine. June.

Chelonia caja — The country people always look on this gaudy insect as a
butterfly, and often send a specimen to us in the hope that they have
made a great discovery. All female moths are very tenacious of life
until they have laid their eggs. Indeed, unless the whole body has
been completely crushed, the head and breast may be quite dead, while
the abdomen continues to deposit the germs of a future generation.
The caja mother is a typical example.

Arctia fuliginosa — The larvas, which show great diversity in their colour-
ing, from pure black to light brown, are oftener seen than the perfect
insect.

Arctia menthastri — The caterpillar feeds on almost every plant, and although
the moth is generally common in June, it is rare in this parish

Orgyia fascelina— Occasional on the heaths, but is nowhere plentiful.
Midsummer.

Orgyia antiqua — When the eggs are laid they hatch so irregularly over a
period of some seven weeks, that the caterpillar, chrysalis, and moth
may be found at the same time throughout the Summer and Autumn.

Demas coryli — Occasional. The local caterpillars are usually found
feeding on Betula alba. June.

Trichiura cratsegi — Occasional. August and September.

Bombyx rubi — Frequent on the moors, although the cabinet specimen has
usually to be bred from the caterpillar. June.

Bombyx quercus — This fine insect is rather common, but from its nocturnal
habits and power of flight, it is not often caught on the wing.' May
and June.

Saturnia carpini — Occurs pretty often on the moors. Both the perfect
insect and its beautiful larva are greatly prized when discovered by the
country folk. April.

GEOMETRY OR LOOPERS.

Rumia crataegata — Appears in great numbers throughout the Summer.
The wings are of a bright sulphur yellow and the insect is admitted by
everyone to be a beautiful creature. It is said that there are three
broods in the year.

Venilia maculata— Almost common in the open woods along the river
banks. June.

Metrocampa margaritaria — Occurs in considerable numbers in the woods
among oak, birch, and elm. All the wings are of a delicate pale green,
which fades in a few weeks when placed in the Entomologist's cabinet.
July.

290 APPENDIX.

Ellopia fasciaria— Plentiful in the fir woods where the caterpillar feeds.
The perfect insect soon becomes worn. June.

Selenia illunaria — Rare. April and again in July.

Selenia lunaria — Rare, as its food plant, Prunus spinosa, is not plentiful in
this parish. June.

Odontopera bidentata — Sometimes only too easily captured. May.

Crocallis elinguaria — Occasional, as its favourite food plant, Lonicera
periclymenum, is scarce here.

Amphydasis betnlaria — One specimen taken by Mrs Thomson among birch
on the Findhorn, 15th June, 1889.

Boarmia repandata — Often rather too plentiful. June and July.

Boarmia rhomboidaria — Not so common as the last. June and July. The
two Boarmiae fly rather heavily and near the surface, but when at rest
they are amply protected by their wing markings which are so much
in accordance with their natural environment that they are very apt to
be overlooked even by entomological eyes.

Dasydia obf uscata — In all I have only taken four specimens. July.

Ephyra punctaria— One specimen, 9th June, 1894, Ferness wood.

Ephyra pendularia— Occasional among birch trees. June.

Venusia cambricaria — Has occurred. The food plant, Pyrus aucuparia, is
frequent along the Findhorn valley. June.

Acidalia remutata — Rare.

Acidalia fumata — Rather common. The caterpillar feeds on heath. June.

Acidalia aversata — Pretty frequent as well as its usual variety.

Cabera pusaria — A very prominent moth in the midsummer evenings.

Cabera exanthemaria— Ferness, 25th July, 1900.

Macaria liturata— Frequent in the Ferness fir woods.

Numeria pulveraria— One specimen at Ferness in 1886.

Fidonia atomaria — Plentiful. A Northern insect. May.

Fidonia piniaria — The males are very common in the fir woods, but the
females are seldom seen. May.

Hybernia defoliaria — One specimen at the Ferness Schoolhouse by Mrs
Thomson, 26th November, 1892. It is an exceedingly variable moth.
In the female the wings are reduced to the merest rudiments, being
perfectly useless for any purpose whatever. By no means swift of
foot, a distance of twelve inches would mean quite a journey for her.

Cheimatobia brumata — Sometimes very plentiful in the cold months of
November and December. The female has no effective wings and is
unable to fly. Coming out at night she crawls up the stems of trees
en which she deposits her eggs in great numbers. When the little
caterpillars are hatched they seek out the unopened buds, burrow into
them, and often do much harm to Truit trees. It is when in search of
these that the bullfinch and chaffinch are blamed by the gardener for
picking off and destroying his buds.

Oporabia dilutata — Frequent in a mild season. The wing markings are
exceedingly changeable, and in consequence this insect has borne
several names. November.

APPENDIX. 291

<Jporabia filigrammaria — Occasional. August.

Larentia didymata— Everywhere on the wing in June.

Larentia caesiata — Very numerous, and usually good specimens.

Larentia olivata — Generally distributed, but not common. June.

Larentia pectinitaria — The beautiful green tint on the wings is very
fugitive, but if they be completely covered up when drying it helps to
preserve much of their original colour. June and July.

Emmelesia alchemillata — Very plentiful, and during its season it cornea
out in all kinds of weather.

Emmelesia albulata — Common in open country near cultivation.

Emmelesia blandiata— The caterpillar feeds on Euphrasia officinalis.

Eupithecia centureata.

Eupithecia helveticaria.

Eupithecia castigata.

Eupithecia lariciata.

Eupithecia nanata.

Eupithecia vulgata.

Eupithecia absynthiata.

Eupithecia minutata.

Eupithecia rectangulata.

Lobophora lobulata— This species is occasionally of a pretty green tint

when fresh from its chrysalis. April.
Thera juniperata— Scarcely frequent. October.
Thera simulata - Occasional. April and May.
Thera obeliscata— Occurs in fir woods. Summer months.
Ypsipetes ruberata — Common.
Ypsipetes impluviata — Occasional. May.
Ypsipetes elutata — Common. This is an exceedingly variable moth. July.

Melanthia ocellata— A very beautiful insect, and usually in good condition.
Common. June.

Melanippe subtristata — Frequent. Double brooded. It flies both by day
and night. May and July.

Melanippe montanata — The normal type is not always constant. It is a
pretty species but too common to be generally admired, and flies both
by day and nigh t throughout the Summer.

Melanippe fluctuata — A common garden moth. Summer months.

Anticlea badiata — Occasional. It derives its name from the beauty of its

colouring. April.

Anticlea derivata— Rare. Willie Scott, Glenferness, one 3rd May, 1887.
Coremia munitata — A Northern insect, plentiful in this district. June.
Coremia ferrugata — Frequent. It is double brooded. May and August.
Camptogramma bilineata — Common everywhere throughout the Summer.

The degree of colouring differs considerably.

292 APPENDIX.

Cidaria psittacata — Occasional during a mild Autumn.

Cidaria miata — A few specimens usually turn up every season. October.

Cidaria corylata — Occasional, with its rarer variety, Cidaria albo-crenata.

Cidaria russata, vel truncata, with its pretty yellow marked variety.
Cidaria comma-notata. The typical species is very common. May
and August.

Cidaria immanata — Abundant with its less frequent variety, Cidaria mar-
morata, in which the median area of the fore wings is grayish-Avhite.
When the tj'pical insect is at rest on the bark of a fir tree, it is scarcely
possible, without some wing motion, to detect its presence. July.

Cidaria suffumata — Frequent. May.

Cidaria silaceata — Occasional. The wing markings differ very consider-
ably, but withal it is a beautiful insect. May.

Cidaria ribesiaria — Occasional. June and July.
Cidaria testata — Very plentiful on the moors. July.
Cidaria populata — Common. July.
Cidaria fulvata — A pretty little moth. Frequent. July.

Eubolia mensuraria — Frequent, and may often be found flying in the hot
sunshine. June and July.

Eubolia palumbaria — Less commonly met with on the east side of the
Findhorn.

Carsia imbutata — A very local insect. It occurs on the heath near the
Loch of Belivat. As the reputed food plant, Cranberry (Vaccinium
oxycoccos), does not grow in Ardclach, nor even in Nairnshire, the
caterpillar must thrive on some other wilding.

Anaitis plagiata — Frequent in the Glenferness district. This is a double
brooded species, appearing in June and September.

Chesias spartiata — The upper surface of the fore wings is glossed with a
rich silky sheen. Plentiful where its food plant, Spartium scoparium,
occurs on the west bank of the river Findhorn. September.

Chesias obliquaria — Occasional in the same habitats as the foregoing
species. May and June.

Tanagra choerophyllata — Common on the " haughs " along the river where
the caterpillar feeds on the blossoms of the Earth Nut, Bunium
flexuosum. The moth appears in July.

PSEUDO-BOMBYCES VEL CUSPIDATES.

Platypteryx lacertula— A scarce insect here, although its favourite birch is
general in the parish. June.

Platypteryx falcula— Occasional. May and August.

Dicranura vinula — In Ardclach the caterpillars sometimes almost denude
the Populus tremula. One larva found by Professor Burton, Kep-
pernach, at the river on 29th July, 1889, came out a perfect insect in
the following May, and is now in my cabinet. The caterpillar is a
curious example of grotesque shape and beautiful colouring.

PygoDra bucephala— Occurs in Nairnshire near the borders of this parish.

APPENDIX. 293

NOCTU^E VEL NOCTUAS.

Thyatira batis — The lovely pink colour on the four large wing spots is
very liable to fade unless the insect be kept in the dark.

Cymatophora duplaris — Occasional in the lower reaches of the parish. The
body is rather like that of a Geometer. June.

Cymatophora flavicornis— An early moth but rare here. March.
Acronycta psi. Frequent. June.

Acronycta leporina — This insect is always considered a rarity. One
specimen in Dulsie wood by Mrs Thomson, June, 1884.

Acronycta megacephala — Occasional. June.
Acronycta rumicis — Pretty often found at sugar June.
Acronycta myricae — Almost plentiful in this district. June.

Leucania conigera — The larva; feed chiefly on the farmer's plague, known
as couch grass, Triticum repens. July.

Leucania lithargyria — A very beautiful moth, the delicate tints being so
wonderfully blended. July.

Leucania pallens— Frequent. June, July, and August.

Hydroecia nic titans — Common. It flies by day and night and may often
be found at rest on wild flowers. A few specimens, with little or no
trace of white in the reniform, occur in Nairnshire.

Hydroecia micacea — These insects appear to emerge from their chrysalea
throughout the Autumn months.

Xylophasia rurea — Common. June.

Xylophasia polydon — A very dark variety is frequently met with here.

Neuria saponariae — A moth of great beauty. One specimen in Ferness-
Schoolhouse, 12th July, 1000.

Charceas graminis — Although the perfect insect may be seen frequently
enough on the flowers of " Senecio Jacoboea," the caterpillars do not
bear among us their usual reputation of incorrigible evil-doers.

Luperina testacea— This insect appears to do little or no harm here.

Mamestra brassicae — In the garden the larvae often do considerable damage,
and, despite the vigilant eyes of the cook, are frequently found on the
dinner table among their favourite cabbage.

Apamea basilinea — Although the caterpillars are very destructive among
the wheat fields in the South, they do very little harm in this district.

Apamea gemina — Frequent. The shades of colouring are so inconstant
that the varieties are sometimes mistaken even by Entomologists for
different species.

Apamea oculea — It would be a hopeless task to describe every individual
of this protean insect.

Miana fasciuncula — Usually found flying over hay fields, but never plenti-
ful. June.

Caradrina cubicularis — A rather familiar inmate in most houses.
Busina tenebrosa — Fond of sugar. June.
Agrotis valligera — This variable moth occurs sparingly here.

294 APPENDIX.

Agrotis exclamationis — The caterpillar is an agricultural pest.

Agrotis nigricans — The larvae are scarcely less troublesome than the fore-
going. July.

Agrotis tritici — Frequent at bramble blossoms. July.
Agrotis porphyrea — Occurs almost plentiful among heath.

Agrotis prcecox— Occasional during the Autumn month* It resists the
influence of chloroform in a high degree.

Agrotis pyrophila — Rather local and never common. July.

Tryphoena ianthina— The wing colouring is very rich and less liable to vary
than in any other species of the genus.

Tryphoena orbona — Frequent. July.

Tryphoena pronuba — This large insect is common everywhere.

Noctua glareosa — It comes freely to light, and may be often taken on the
flowers of " Senecio Jacobcea " at night.

Noctua depuncta — This moth is rather local and rare. July.

Notcua augur — Common. July.

Noctua plecta — Common. July.

Noctua C. nigrum — A double brooded species. May and September.

Noctua triangulnm — Rare in this district. June.

Noctua brunnea — May be taken freely in July.

Noctua festiva — The endless varieties of this moth have given me much
trouble in identification. July.

Noctua dahlii — This is a sylvan species and easily caught. July.
Noctua rubi — Common. A double brooded insect. May and August.
Noctua umbrosa — Occasional. August.
Noctua baja — Frequent. July.

Noctua xanthographa — Large numbers may always be take at sugar.
July and August.

Trachea piniperda— Found only in pine plantations. April.

Tceniocampa gothica — This moth occurs on the sallow catkins in March
and April.

Tceniocampa instabilis — A very variable insect. Not common. April.

Anchocelis rufina — Occasional, as its food plant, Quercus robur, is not
plentiful in the parish. September.

Anchocelis litura— Comes freely to sugar. September.

Scopelosoma satellitia — Rare in Ardclach so far as our experience goes.
October.

Xanthia cerago — Occasional. September.

Xanthia silago — This species has a brighter yellowish hue than its fore-
going relative. They appear to be widely distributed though never
plentiful. September.

Euperia fulvago — Two specimens were found at Ferness — 16th August,
1889, and August, 1895. A very local insect.

APPENDIX. 295

Cosmia trapezina — The food plant " Quercus robur," is scarce here.
Dianthoecia cucubali — Occasional. June.

Polia chi — It is decidedly local, but a season seldom passes in this parish
without a few specimens being captured. July to September.

Epunda lutulenta— Rather scarce. September.

Epunda nigra — Frequent, though it seems to be local in its appearances.
Comes freely to light. October.

Epunda viminalis — One specimen at the Schoolhouse, Ferness, 15th August,
1893.

Miselia oxyacanthae — Occasional. September.

Phlogophora meticulosa— Double brooded and generally common, but I
have taken only a few specimens.

Euplexia lucipara — Not very plentiful in Ardclach. July.

Aplecta herbida — Rather an uncommon species here. One was taken at
sugar 10th July, 1896.

Aplecta nebulosa— Rare in Ardclach.

Hadena adusta — Frequent and widely distributed.

Hadena glauca — This is a Northern insect and fairly abundant.

Hadena dentina — Occurs generally throughout Nairnshire.

Hadena suasa — One specimen at sugar June, 1896. I believe this capture-
is the first in the North of Scotland. It is now in my cabinet.

Hadena oleracea — Common in this district.
Hadena thalassina — Occasional.

Hadena rectilinea— This is a beautiful insect and appears to be a Northern
species, not being found farther South than Yorkshire.

Cloantha solidaginis — I found two specimens at Ferness on Rag Weed, 14th
August, 1895. It is an exceedingly local insect, and so far as known
to me, is new to the North of Scotland.

Calocampa exoleta — Although this is a moth universally distributed in
Great Britain, I possess only one specimen taken at Ferness 24th
October, 1887.

Cucullia umbra tica — In this district it comes freely to the flowers of
Lychnis vespertina.

Anarta cordigera — One specimen taken on the moor of Aitnoch, Glen-
ferness, by Willie Scott, Drummore, 26th May, 1885. It is now in my
cabinet. Newman, in his " British Moths " states, that so far as
Great Britain is concerned, it has only been taken at Rannoch in
Perthshire.

Anarta myrtilli — Took one moth in Ferness Wood on the 20th June, 1891,
and another in the Schoolhouse Garden on the 9th May, 1893.

Brephos parthenias — Occasional in the early Spring.

Abrostola urticae — Very plentiful about its food plant, Urtica dioica.

Plusia chrysitis — Occasional.

Plusia bractea — Rare.

Plusia festucae — Occasional.

296 APPENDIX.

Plusia iota — Rare.
Plusia pulchrina — Rare.

Plusia gamma — This destructive insect seldom causes much damage here.
It may be met with from Spring to Autumn, and often ascends our
highest hills.

Plusia interrogationis — Rare.
Amphipyra tragopogonis — Common.

Not having been able to give much attention to the remaining tribes of
the Micro-Lepidoptera we trust it may be considered sufficient to simply
enumerate, " in cumulo," the few species, which, from time to time, have
been observed within the district. Judging, however, by the numbers in
the foregoing lists it might reasonably be concluded that the local field
would amply reward the search of the diligent Entomologist in this difficult
branch of Natural Science.

Hypena proboscidalis, Aglossa pinguinalis ; Pyrausta purpuralis ; Enny-
chia cingulalis ; Hydrocampa nymphajata ; Botys f uscalis ; Pionea
forficalis ; Scopula lutealis ; Eudorea murana, Eudorea lineola ;
Aphomia colonella ; Crambus pratellus, Crambus hortuellus, Crambus
culmullus, Crambus tristellus, Crambus pinetellus ; Chloephora prasi-
nana. Tortrix adjunctana, Tortrix ribeana, Tortrix corylana, Tortrix
unifasciana ; Halonota scutulana. Peronea variegana ; Sericoris
lacunana ; Mixodia schulziana, Mixodia palustrana ; Eupoecilia
angustana. Tinea tapetzella ; Micropteryx purpurella, Micropteryx
uniaculella, Micropteryx subpurpurella ; Swammerdamia caesiella ;
Depressaria costosa, Depressaria umbellana, Depressaria arenella,
Depressaria applana ; GelechiaHuberni, Gelechia instabilella ; Pleurota
bicostella ; Endrosis fenestrella ; Tinagma resplendellum ; Argyresthia
conjugella ; Gracilaria semifascia, Gracilaria elongella ; Coleophora
viminetella ; Chauliodus chaerophyllella ; Elachista kilmunella, Elachista,
zonarielk, ; Lithocolletis vacciniella, Lithocolletis frolichiella ; Cemi-
ostoma spartifoliella ; Alucita polydactyla.

APPENDIX

297

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF FLIES.

ORDER ORTHOPTERA.
FAMILY ACRIDID^E.

Mecostethus grossus, Linn

ORDER NEUROPTERA.
FAMILY LIBELLULID.E.

Platetrum depressum, Linn.
Cordulegaster annulatus, Latr.
vEschna grandis, Linn.
Pyrrhosoma minium, Harr.

FAMILY CHRYSOPID.E.
Chrysopa vulgaris, Schn.

ORDER TRICHOPTERA.

FAMILY PHRYGANID.E.
Phryganea grandis, Linn.

ORDER HYMENOPTERA.

DIVISION TEREBRANTIA.
SUB-DIVISION PHYTOPHAGA.

FAMILY TENTHREDINID^.

Trichiosoma lucorum, Linn.
Nematus ribesii, Scop.
Tenthredo macnlata, Fourc.
Tenthredo mesomelas, Linn.

SUB-DIVISION ENTOMOPHAGA.

FAMILY CYNIPID^E.
Cynips Kollari, Hartig.

FAMILY CHRYSIDIDJE.
Chrysis ignita, Linn.

FAMILY ICHNEUMONID.E.

Amblyteles proteus, Christ.
Pimpla instigator, Fab.

FAMILY BRACONID.E.

Apanteles glomeratus, Linn.

DIVISION ACULEATA.

SUB-DI VISION HYTEROGYNA.

FAMILY FORMICIDJS.

Formica rufa, Linn.
Formica sanguinea, Latr.

SUB-DIVISION FOSSORES.

FAMILY NYSSONID^.
Mellinus arvensis, Linn.

SUB-DIVISION DlPLOPTERA.

FAMILY ECMENIDJB.

Odynerus parietum, Linn.

FAMILY VESPID^B.

Vespa vulgaris, Linn.
Vespa arborea, Smith.

SuB-Di VISION ANTHOPHILA.

FAMILY ANDRENID.E.

Colletes fodiens, Kirby.
Halictus rubicundus, Kirby.
Andrena nitida, Kirby.
Andrena trimmerana, Kirby.

FAMILY

Apatlms vestalis, Fourc.
Bombus muscorum, Linn.
Bombus fragrans, Pall.
Bombus lapponicus. Fab.
Bombus pratorum, Linn.
Bombus lapidarius, Lind.
Bombus terrestris, Kirby.
Apis mellifica, Linn.

ORDER HEMIPTERA.
SUB-ORDER HETEROPTERA.
FAMILY GERRID^E.

Gerris gibbifera, Schum.

298

APPENDIX.

ORDER DIPTERA.

SUB-ORDER ORTHORRHAPHA.

DIVISION NEMATOCERA.

FAMILY BIBIONID.E.
Bibio pomonse, Fab.

FAMILY CULICID.SS.
Culex pipiens, Linn.

FAMILY TIPULID^E.

Tipula gigantea, Schranck.

DIVISION BRACHYCERA.

FAMILY TABANID^.

Haematopota pluvialis, Linn.
Therioplectes tropicus, Linn.
Tabanus bovinus, Linn.

FAMILY

Leptis scolopacea, Linn.
Leptis conspicua, Latr.

FAMILY ASILID^E.
Laphria flava, Linn.

FAMILY EMPID^E.
Empis Aessellata, Fab.

SUB-ORDER CYCLORR
HAPHA.

DIVISION PROBOSCIDEA.

FAMILY SYRPHIDJ-:.

Chilosia praecox, Zett.
Leucozona lucorum, Linn.
Platychirus manicatus, Mg.
Didea alneti, Fin.
Didea intermedia, Loew.
Syrphus ribesii, Linn.
Syrphus glaucius, Linn.
Sphegina clunipes, Fin.

Rhingia rostrata, Linn.

Volucella bombylans, Linn.

Volucella pellucens, Linn.

Sericomyia borealis, Fin.

Arctophila mussitans, Fab.

Eristalis tenax, Linn.

Eristalis intricarius, Linn.

Eristalis arbust&rum, Linn.

Helophilus pendulus, Linn.

Xylota segnis, Linn.

Cbrysochlamys nigrifrons, Eg-
ger. (Only a variety of
Chrysochlamys cuprca, Scop.)

Spilomyia fallax, Linn.

Chrysotoxum arcuatum, Linn.

FAMILY CONOPIDA:.

Conops vesicularis, Linn.

FAMILY TACHINID.I:.

Echinomnia grossa, Linn.
Olivieria lateralis, Fab.

FAMILY SARCOPHAGIDJE.

Sarcophaga carnaria, Linn.
Cynomyia mortuorum, Linn.

FAMILY MUSCID-SS.

Lucilia caesar, Linn.
Calliphora groenlandica, Zett.
Calliphora erythrocephala, Nig.
Callipbora vomitoria, Linn.
Pollenia vespillo, Fab.
Musca domestica, Linn.
Mesembrina meridiana, Linn.

FAMILY ANTHOMYID^E.

Hyetodesia scutellaris, Fin.
Homalomyia canicularis, Linn.

FAMILY CORD Y LURID.*:.

Scatophaga stercoraria, Linn.

FAMILY SCIOMYZID^C.
Dryomyza flaveola, Fab.

APPENDIX. 299

INSCRIPTIONS IN CHURCHYARD OF ARDCLACH.

The subjoined Inscriptions are of local interest : —

" Memoriae ALEXANDER FALCONER, hujusce parochiae preceptoris
guadraginta septem annos. Viri docti probique, sacrum, Ob. A.D. 1837,
JEt. 76."

" Erected in memory of MARGARET BROWN, beloved wife of JAMES
BJACH, Teacher, who died at Fornighty, February 21st, 1870. Also the
said JAMES RIACH, who died there 4th July, 1886, aged 70 years."

" Sacred to the memory of Miss JANE GORDON MITCHELL, who
having, after the death of her mother, devoted the last forty years of her
life to the care of her brother, James Mitchell, born deaf, dumb, and blind,
died universally regretted on the 14th June, 1861, aged 73 years. And also
of JAMES ERROL MITCHELL, who died at Nairn on llth August, 1869, aged
73 years, much beloved, and regarded as a peculiar monument of a merciful
God's protecting care."

" Sacred to the memory of the Rev. COLIN MACKENZIE, M A , for
thirty-two years Minister of this Parish. A sincere Christian, an earnest
preacher, a faithful pastor, and an honest man, distinguished for his kind-
ness to the poor and for his love to all. Born at the Manse of Rogart,
2nd August, 1828 ; died at the Manse of Ardclach, 7th July, 1882. Erected
in affectionate remembrance by his parishioners and friends. Also of his
wife, ELIZA ISABELLA MACKENZIE, who died at Nairn, 19th November,
1884. 'Lord I believe'."

A tablet inside the Church bears the following inscription : —

" In memory of the Rev. COLIN MACKENZIE, for thirty-two years
Minister of this Parish. Died 7th July, 1882. « Blessed are the dead that
die in the Lord.' Erected by his parishioners and friends "

" In memory of the Rev. HENRY MACLEOD, who was born in Rogart,
Sutherlandshire, April 26th, 1805, and ordained and inducted as Free
Church Minister of Ardclach, April 16th, 1844. A man of considerable
mental vigour, a devout and consistent Christian, an agreeable companion,
a wise counsellor, an edifying preacher, and a faithful pastor, laid aside
from public work during the last years of his life. He died at Milton of
Connage, in the Parish of Petty, 19th February, 1876."

" Sacred to the memory of the Rev. HUGH MAC BE AN, for thirty-nine
years Minister of this Parish, who died on 17th September, 1851, aged 73
years ; and of ANNE FRASER, his widow, who died on 23rd November,
1864, aged 72 years. Also of JOHN, ALEXINA, HUGH, ALEXANDER, and
WILLIAM, their children. The three last mentioned are likewise here
interred."

300 APPENDIX.

The following is inscribed on a tablet built into the Nortb wall of the
Church :—

" This stone was placed here by Mr WILLIAM BARRON, Minister, and
his wife JEAN GRANT, in memory of their children whose dust lits here
under, viz., HUGH, and ten more of sons and daughters. 1766."

" This stone is placed here by JAMES BARRON, of* Fort-George, in
testimony of respect for the memory of his parents, the Rev. WILLIAM
BARRON, Minister of Ardclach, who died in 1779, on the 62nd year of his
ministry, aged 86. A pastor eminent for piety, indefatigable in the vine-
yard of his blessed Master, the friend of virtue, the enemy only of vice ;
who walked by faith and died in hope. And in memory of JEAN GRANT,
his mother, who died in 1784, aged 74 years, and twelve of their children.
' I will ransome them from the power of the grave ; I will redeem them
from death '. "

" Erected by the parishioners of Ardclach in testimony of esteem for
the Rev. DONALD MITCHELL, their pastor, who died beloved and lamented
on the 22nd June, 1811, in the 62nd year of his age and 38th of his ministry."

The following is from a tablet inside the Church : —

" Sacred to the memory of the Rev. DONALD MITCHELL. He was a
zealous and edifying preacher of the Gospel, a faithful and diligent
shepherd of souls, in relative duties affectionate and exemplary. This stone
was erected by his parishioners in commemoration of his work and piety,
and in testimony of their respect and love. His mild and blameless life
and his useful labours were closed on 22nd day of June, 1811, in the 62nd
of his age and the 38th of his ministry."

INDEX.

Aconite, Common ... Page 18

Adder, or Viper ... ... 94

Aitnoch, The Hill of ... 4

Alt-an-airidh 33

Ant, The Hill 138

Ash, The 24

Ask, The Heather 94

Aspen, The... 10

Asphodel, The Bog ... 51

Badger, The 81

Baltic Rush, The 72

Bat, The 86

Bedegaurs ... 48

Bee, The Hive ... 141, 148

Beech, The 24

Beech, Fern 67

Bell Tower, The 209

Bent Grass ... ... ... 75

Birch, The 26

Birds 95

Bird Cherry, The ... ... 27

Bittern, The 120

Black Bird, The 99

Black Thorn; The - 12

Blue Bell, The 44

Blue Bottle, Fly, Meat 48, 151

Blunt Flowered Rush ... 72

Bottle Sedge, The 72

Bourtree, The 37

Bracken Fern, Brake ... 68
Bramble, Common The ... 45, 46

Brock, The 81

Brome Grass, The 74

Brooklime 20

Broom, The 31

Buckbeam 30

Bull Finch, The 110

Bunting, Reed, Snow, The 112

Burdoch, The 57

Burnet Rose, The 48

Bush Vetch. The 35

Buttercup, the 15

Butterwort, The 4G

Buzzard, Common, Honey,

The 118

CallumBeg 254

Canary Grass, The Reed ... 75

Capercaillie, The 122

Cat's Foot, The 55

Celandine, The Lesser ... 12

Chaffinch, The 109-

Charlemagne 56

Charlock,^The 42

Chickweed, The Common... 19

Childrens' Loch, The ... 224-

Cinquefoil, The Marsh ... 41

Clovers, The 33

Cock-fighting 225

Cock's Foot Grass, The ... 75

Colts' Foot, The 7

Coot, The 125

Cormorant, The 119

Corn Cockle, The 30

Cotton Grass, The 10

Craig na Ban 61

Crane Fly, The 135

Creeper, The 104

Crossbill, The Ill

Croupans ... IS

Crowberry, The IS

Crow, The Carrion, Hooded

or Grey 114

Crowfoot, The 18

Cuckoo, The 117

Cuckoo Flower, The ... 29^

Cudweed, The 54

Cuiloden 58-

Cumberland, Duke of ... 58

Curlew, The 128

Daisy, The ... 4

Dandelion, The 8

Deadman's Bells, The .. 36

Death's Head, The 150

302

INDEX.

Deer, The Red ... Page 91

Gull, The Black Backed Page

12'.>

Devil's-bit, The

58

Gull, The Black Headed ...

128

Dipper, The

103

Gull, The Lesser ...

129

Doctrine of Signatures ... 21

,43

Dog Rose, The

48

Hagberry, The

27

Dog Violet, The

11

Hairy Tare, The

35

Dor Beetle, The

138

Hare, The Alpine, Blue, or

Dove, The Ring, Stock ...

121

Mountain... * ...

90

Druids, The

24

Hare Bell, The

45

Hare, The Common

89

Earth Nut, The

19

Hawk, The Sparrow

118

Earwig, The

141

Hawk weeds, The ...

42

Edelweiss, The

55

Heath, The Cross-leaved ...

61

Elder, The

37

Heather, The

61

Enchanter's Nightshade, The

39

Heath, The Fine-leaved ...

61

Ermine, The

82

Heath Pea, The

35

Erysipelas ...

21

Heath Rush, The

73

Everlasting, The Mountain

55

Hedgehog, The

85

Eyebright, The

44

Hedge Sparrow, The

102

Henbit, The

6

Fairy Flax, The

20

Herb Robert, The

21

Falcon, The Peregrine

118

Heron, The Common

119

Fauna, The

81

Highland River

33

Few-flowered Sedge, The ...

72

Holly, The

29

Fieldfare, The

98

Honey Buzzard, The

118

Flea Sedge, The

72

Hooded Crow, Carrion or

Floralia. The

18

Grey, The

114

Forget-me-not, The

20

Hooker, Sir J. D

8

Fox, The

83

Horse Gowan, The

49

Foxglove, The

36

House Leek, The ...

56

Frederick William of Prussia

61

Hyacinth, The

39

Frog, The

92

Fumitory, The

63

Ichneumon Flies ...

142

Fungi, The

78

Insect Life ...

131

Flycatcher, The

107

Fly, The House

133

Jackdaw, The

114

Juniper, The

28

Gad Fly, The

151

Jupiter's Beard

56

General Characteristics ...

195

Gentian, The Field

55

Kestrel, The

119

Germander Speedwell, The

20

Kingfisher, The

116

Glen Girnoch

61

Knap Grass, The

74

Globe Flower, The

15

Gnat, The

150

Lace Fly, The

147

Golden Crested Wren, The

102

Lady Fern, The

68

Golden Plover, The

125

Lady's Mantle, The

35

Goldfinch, The

108

Land Rail, The

124

Goosander, The

121

Lapwing. The

125

Goose Grass, The ...

74

Larch, The ...

28

Grasses, The

73

Linnoea borealis

39

Greenfinch, The

108

Linnaeus

31

Grouse, The Black ..

122

Linnet, The Common

110

Grouse, The Red ...

123

Lizard, The Common

94

Ground Ivy, The

9

Lochindorbh Castle

231

Gull, The Common

129 Loose Strife, The

28

INDEX.

303

Lousewort, The ... Page 14

Ox Eye, The ... Page 49

Lychnis, The ....

29

Oyster Catcher, The ... 126

Magpie, The

113

Pansy, The Mountain ... 11

Maidenhair Moss, The Golden

77

Papple, The 30

Male Fern , The

67

Parnassus, The Grass of ... 60

Mallard, The

120

Partridge, The 123

Malvina

5

Pearlwort, The 19

Mammalia, Aves et Reptilia

81

Peregrine Falcon, The ... 118

Marigold, The Marsh

14

Periwinkle, The Lesser ... (>

Marigold, The Yellow Corn

49

Persicaria, The Spotted ... 58

Mare's Tail, The

40

Pheasant, The 123

Marsh Cinquef oil, The

41

Picts, The 61

Marsh Marigold , The

14

Pipit, The 106-

Marsh Violet, The

11

Place-Names (alphabetically

Martin, The House

107

arranged in the body of

Martin, The Sand

108

the work) 152

May Fly, The

143

Plover, The Golden ... 125

Meadow Grass, The

76

Polecat, The 81

Meadow Rattle, The

42

Polypodium, The Common 66

Meadwort, The

50

Prickly Sedge, The ... 72

Melic Grass, The

29

Primrose, The Common ... 11

Melmot Berries

28

Princess Stone, The ... 246

"Men "of Ardclach

207

Merlin, The

119

Queen (in her Journal) .. 61

Milkwort, The

30

Queen of the Meadow, The 50

Mill of Remore. The Old ...

217

Quickens 74

Ministers of Ardclach

206

Quicken Tree, The ... 23

Missel Thrush, The

97

Moon wort, The

70

Rabbit, The 90

Moorhen, The

124

Ragged Robin, The ... 29

Mole, The

84

Ragweed, The 57

Monk's Hood, The

18

Rail, The Water and Land 124

Morven

5

Raspberry, The 45

Mosses, The

70

Rat, The Black 87

Mountain Pansy, The

11

Rat, The Grey 88

Mouse Ear, The

21

Redbreast, The 101

Mous-e, House, Long- tailed,

Red pole, The 110

Field, The

84

Redshank, The 128

Myosotis palustris ...

21

Redstart, The 100

Redwing, The 98

Nettle, Stinging, The

50

Reed Bunting, The 112

Newt, The Great Crested...

94

Reptilia 92

Newt, The Smooth Palmated

94

Ring Dove, The 121

Nightjar, The

116

Ring Ouzel, The 99

Roebuck, The 91

Oak, The

24

Rook, The 115

Oak Fern, The

67

Rowan, The 23

Oat -like Grass

74

Rush Family, The 72

Orange Tip, The

145

Ruskin

Orchis, The...

38

Otter, The

82

St. John's Wort 51

Ouzel, The

99

St. Louis

Owl, The Long-eared and

Salicine 10

Tawny

117

Sandpiper, The 127

304

IN7DEX.

Saxifrage, The Starry and

Yellow

Scabious, The
Scotch Pine, The ...
Sedge Family, The
Shamrock, The
Shepherd's Purse, The
Shrew, The and Water
Shrike, The Great Grey
Silver Weed, The ...

Sisken, The

Skylark, The

Sloe, The

Sloe Worm, The ...
Sneezewort, The ...
Snipe, The Common
Snowdrop, The
Sparrow, The and Tree
Sparrow Hawk, The
Sparrow, The Hedge
Spear Thistle, The...
Spearwort, The Lesser-
Speedwell, The
Sphagnum, The
Spike Rush, The ...
Spleen wort, The ...
Spring Vetch, The...
Spruce, The...
Spurge, The Common
Squirrel, The
Stag, The ... ,...
Starling, The
Stitchwort, The ...
" Stinking Willie "

Stoat, The

Stock Dove, The ...
Stonechat, The
Strawberry, The Wild
Straw Mouse, The ...
Sundew, The
Swallow, The
Sweet Briar, The ...
Swift, The

Teal, The

Tern, The Common
Thrush, The Missel
Thrush, The Song...
Tit, The Great
Tit, The Long- tailed
Titmouse, The Coal and Blue

Toad, The ,

Transformation Period, The

id

Trembling Poplar, The

Page 10

Page 44

Trifoils, The

34

58

Tufted Vetch, The...

35

27

Twite, The

110

71

22

Vernal Grass, The...

74

38

Veronica, The

20

85

Vetches. The •

35

... 106

Violet, the Marsh...

11

41

Viper, The

94

... 108

Virgula Divina

59

115

Vole, The Meadow and

Red 89

13

Vole, The Water ...

88

93

Volucella bombylans

146

49

... 127

Wagtail, The

105

5

Wasp, The

140, 148

... 109

Water Avens, The...

41

... 118

Water Bull, The ...

220

.. 102

Water Lily, The ...

62

53

Water Starwort, The

65

15

Water Triffle, The...

30

20

Waxwing, The ...

107

77

Weasef, The

82

72

Wheatear, The

... 100

70

Wheat Grass, The ...

74

35

Whin, The

31

28

Whinchat, The

... 100

42

Whirlgigs, The ...

132, 147

86

White Campion, The

30

91

White Root, The ...

74

... 113

Whitethroat, The ...

... 101

20

Whitlow Grass, The

9

58

Whitret, The

82

82

Wild Mustard, The

42

... 121

Wild Thyme, The ...

36

... 100

Willows, The

9

23

Willow Wren, The...

... 102

85

Wind Flower, The...

12

46

Winter Green, The

36

... 107

Wishing Rod, The...

59

48

Wolf, The

84

116

Woodcock, The ...

... 126

Wood Hyacinth, The

39

... 120

Woodruff, The ...

23

... 128

Wood Rush, The ...

73

97

Wood Sorrel, The ...

22

98

Worm, The Slow ...

93

... 103

Wren, The Common

... 104

103

Wren, The Golden Crested 102

lue 104

Wren, The Wood ...

... 102

93

'he 135

Yellow Hammer, The

... Ill

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