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atural  Landscapes 

of  the 

United  States 


*Vs 


UNITED  SI* 

NATHM 

AMD  OTHER  ARtAS  AD» 


MOLOKAI 
'"C?^-.     ■  HAWAII 

q'^^'national  park 


HAWAII   NATIONAL   PARX^^ 
HAWAIIAN    ISLANDS 


Front  Cover:   Glacier  National  Park 

Inside  Cover:    The  National  Park  System  and  Other  Areas 
Administered  by  the  National  Park  Service 


Ocotillo,  sahuaro,  and  other  succulents  in  a  typical  desert  land- 
scape, Tucson  Mountains  Recreation  Area,  Arizona. 


Natural    Landscapes 
of  the  United  States 


BY 

J.  FRANCIS  MACBRIDE 

CURATOR  OF  PERUVIAN  BOTANY 


CHICAGO  NATURAL  HISTORY  MUSEUM 
POPULAR  SERIES 

BOTANY.  NUMBER  27 
1950 


PRINTED   IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA 
BY  CHICAGO  NATURAL  HISTORY  MUSEUM  PRESS 


Copyright  1950  by  Chicago  Natural  History  Museum 


White  pine 


Principal  regions  of  natural  vegetation  in  North  America. 


6  . 


Natural   Landscapes 

of   the    United   States 


The  great  naturalist  Darwin  said  that  every  traveler 
ought  to  be  a  botanist,  because  plants  make  up  a  large 
part  of  every  landscape.  Certainly  if  the  traveler  knows 
something  about  the  vegetation  of  the  scene  he  views, 
his  interest  and  enjoyment  are  immeasurably  increased. 

Principal  Types  of  Vegetation 

As  may  be  seen  on  the  accompanying  map  (see  map, 
p.  6),  the  botanical  division  of  the  United  States,  while 
not  as  simple  as  the  political  one  of  Gaul,  can  in  the  most 
general  way  be  based  on  the  three  main  types  of  natural 
vegetation  which  everyone  recognizes:  namely,  woods, 
grassland,  and  desert.  These  vary  greatly  in  appearance 
with  the  kinds  of  trees  and  other  plants  that  predominate 
in  any  given  area;  furthermore,  they  often  merge  with  one 
another.  Some  of  the  more  conspicuous  variations  of  the 
three  types  of  vegetation  will  be  characterized  by  naming 
a  few,  a  very  few,  of  the  plants  that  comprise  them — in 
the  main  only  the  trees  or  other  plants  so  striking  and 
large  that  they  may  be  seen  from  a  moving  automobile. 

Originally  a  large  portion  of  our  country  was  covered 
with  forests  (see  map,  p.  8).  Today  these  forests  are  much 
more  limited  and  often  protected  by  state  or  federal  laws 
as  part  of  our  national  heritage.  A  brief  description  of 
these  forests  may  well  serve  as  a  starting  point  for  our 
sightseeing  trip  through  the  eyes  of  a  botanist. 


Caeh  dot  reprtsants 
10.000  ocrts 


Maps  showing  virgin  forests  (1620)  and  present  forest  areas. 

<  8  * 


Northern  coniferous  forest  on  Isle  Royale,  Lake  Superior,  Michigan. 


First,  it  may  be  noted  that  the  forests  consist  of  two 
principal  kinds:  coniferous  (trees  that  bear  cones  and 
usually  have  needle-like  evergreen  leaves)  and  deciduous 
(trees  that  lose  their  broad  leaves  completely  at  some 
seasons,  becoming  entirely  bare).  Although  the  leafy  or 
broad-leaved  trees  may  be  evergreen  in  the  subtropical 
areas,  coniferous  and  deciduous  forests  are  in  many  places 
more  or  less  mixed. 

Coniferous  Forests 

Northern  Coniferous  Forest 

Let  us  begin  our  journey  with  a  visit  to  the  coniferous 
forests.  Of  these,  three  rather  distinct  geographical  types 
are  recognized.  The  largest  area  is  occupied  by  the 
northern  coniferous  forest,  known  in  frontier  folk  lore  as 
having  been  the  home  of  Paul  Bunyan  and  his  fabulous 
Blue  Ox.    This  forest  sweeps  across  Canada  from  Alaska 

-  10- 


Northern  coniferous  forest  in  Glacier  National  Park,  Montana. 


11 


to  the  Atlantic,  extending,  a  little  west  of  the  Great  Lakes, 
into  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin  and  as  far  south  as  central 
Michigan,  thence  eastward  through  Pennsylvania  and 
upper  New  York  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  South  of  this  area 
it  merges  with  the  deciduous  forest  that  originally  clothed 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  river  valleys,  and  together  they 
form  a  distinctive,  if  narrow,  belt  of  mixed  timber  (see 
map,  p.  6).  The  chief  components  of  this  forest,  except 
the  jack  pine,  extend  far  down  along  the  Appalachians. 

These  northern  coniferous  forests  (mostly  Canadian) 
are  striking  in  their  uniformity.  For  hours  on  end  one 
may  journey  across  nearly  pure  stands  of  evergreens — 
white  and  red  (or  Norway)  pine,  hemlock,  jack  pine,  and 
balsam  fir — and  often  the  trees  grow  so  closely  together 
that  there  is  room  only  for  small  stands  or  isolated  in- 
dividuals of  other  kinds,  such  as  tamarack,  alder,  willow, 
or  poplar  and  aspen. 

Atlantic  and  Gulf  Coastal  Plain  Forests 

Similarly,  the  coastal  plain  that  extends  roughly  from 
Long  Island  to  Florida  and  along  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to 
a  few  hundred  miles  beyond  the  delta  of  the  Mississippi, 
is  characterized  by  nearly  pure  stands  of  pines,  southward 
especially  longleaf  and  slash  pines.  The  pine  forests  of 
the  southern  states,  well  known  for  their  yield  of  "naval 
stores,"  resin  and  turpentine,  are  now  being  exploited  as 
a  source  of  material  for  the  manufacture  of  newsprint  and 
kraft  paper.  Toward  the  interior,  other  species,  such  as 
the  loblolly  pine,  are  frequently  associated  with  oaks  and 
other  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs. 

In  this  area,  rolling  pine  lands  with  little  or  no  ground 
cover  except  grass  (using  the  term  broadly)  extend  for 
great  distances  and  because  of  this  barren  appearance  are 
commonly  known  as  pine-barrens.  On  the  other  hand, 
southward  and  westward  into  Mississippi  and  Louisiana 
a  rich  flora  of  herbs  may  be  present  in  such  forests.  The 
pine  lands,  varying  in  type  from  one  region  to  another, 
may  be  wet  or  may  contain  swamps  such  as  the  Great 
Dismal  Swamp  of  Virginia  or  the  Okefenokee  Swamp  of 

.  12  - 


Stand  of  virgin  longleaf  pine  in  Choctawatchee  National  Forest,  Florida, 
characteristic  of  the  coastal  plain. 


southern  Georgia.  They  may  also  merge  with  deciduous 
forests,  as  in  Florida,  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  and  Tennessee, 
or  be  found  as  isolated  stands  in  areas  where  another  type 
of  vegetation  predominates. 

Western  Coniferous  Forest 

But  the  greatest  expanse  of  coniferous  forests  in  this 
country  is  found  in  the  West  (see  map,  p.  6).  Several 
pines  and  spruces,  the  hemlock,  the  great  fir  and  the  canoe 

.  13  . 


'Big  trees"  in  Sequoia  National  Park,  California. 


14 


cedar  range  from  Alaska  and  western  Canada  southward 
nearly  throughout  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  along  the 
coasts  of  Washington,  Oregon,  and  California  to  the 
Sierras.  In  the  California  mountains  they  are  over- 
shadowed by  the  redwood  and  by  the  "Big  Tree,"  or  giant 
Sequoia,  known  at  least  by  picture  throughout  the  civilized 
world.  The  visitor  to  the  groves  of  the  giant  Sequoia  in 
the  well-watered  Sierra  Nevada  will  see  dense  coniferous 
forests  composed,  in  part,  of  yellow  pine,  sugar  pine, 
Douglas  and  red  firs,  and  some  hemlock. 

Throughout  the  coastal  fogbelt  of  northern  California 
and  Oregon  the  redwood  is  often  accompanied  by  the 
Douglas  fir  and  the  great  fir.  At  lower  levels  the  latter 
may  be  associated  with  other  evergreens,  like  juniper  or 
cypress  trees.    In  the  higher  mountains  one  finds  the  white- 


Redwoods  in  Bull  Creek  Flat,  near  Dyerville,  California. 


\ 


m>  - 


Monterey  cypress,  well  known  along  the  California  coast,  in  Monterey  Bay. 


barked  pine,  and  on  Mount  Shasta,  above  the  yellow  pine, 
is  found  a  particularly  noteworthy  timber  composed 
mostly  of  tall  and  stately  fir. 

A  well-known  conifer  of  the  California  coast  is  the 
Monterey  cypress.  The  wind-contorted  trees,  many 
seemingly  clinging  to  the  rocky  bluffs  of  Monterey  Bay, 
are  confined  to  a  narrow  strip  of  territory  only  a  few  miles 
long.  Also  rare  and  interesting  as  a  relic  of  an  earlier 
age  in  southern  California  is  the  Torrey  pine. 

But  the  heaviest  coniferous  timber  occurs  in  the  mild 
and  rainy  belt  of  Washington  and  western  Oregon;  that  is, 
through  the  Olympic  Mountains  and  the  Cascades. 
Particularly  in  the  region  west  of  Puget  Sound,  the  Douglas 
fir  may  attain  a  height  of  a  hundred  feet  or  more  and  the 
forest  floor  may  be  so  dark  that  only  mosses,  ferns,  and 
an  occasional  shade-loving  shrub  can  live.     With  it,  or 

.  16  - 


alone,  are  found  the  canoe  cedar,  the  coast  hemlock,  near 
the  coast  a  spruce,  and  the  Lawson  cypress,  while  on  the 
mountains  the  firs  flourish  with  some  admixture  of  Engel- 
mann's  spruce.  In  the  western  ranges  of  Oregon  and 
Washington,  the  pines  and  the  western  larch  are  found. 
Although  the  character  of  these  great  forests  of  our  ex- 
treme northwest  must  of  necessity  be  described  briefly 
and  only  the  names  of  a  few  of  their  trees  are  listed,  the 
reader  may  be  assured  that  walking  within  them  and 
acquainting  himself  with  their  grandeur  and  beauty  will 
be  a  cherished  experience. 

Less  stupendous  but  often  varied  and,  in  their  own 
setting  always  beautiful,  are  the  vast  coniferous  forests 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  extend  from  the  Panhandle 
of  Idaho  and  western  Montana  nearly  to  the  Mexican 
border,  with  an  outlying  area  in  the  Black  Hills  of  South 
Dakota.  They  are,  however,  confined  to  slopes  high 
enough  to  acquire  considerable  moisture  from  the  westerly 
winds,  and  vary  greatly  in  degree  of  development  and  in 


Oak  woodland  in  the  Sierra  foothills,  near  Mother  Lode  Highway. 


Mountain  forest  near  Mount  Shasta. 


the  size  of  the  trees,  even  for  the  same  species.  The 
juniper  is  often  the  last  tree  extending  into  the  semi-desert 
conditions  of  the  lower  valleys  and  plains;  in  the  South- 
west it  is  sometimes  associated  with  a  pretty,  compact, 
one-needled  pine,  and  together  they  form  veritable  forests 
many  miles  in  extent.  In  the  central  Rockies,  as  in 
Colorado,  the  forests  may  be  separated  by  open  grassy 
areas  which  have  been  called  "parks"  and  furnish  succulent 
grazing  for  great  flocks  of  sheep. 

Often  these  forests  cover  large  areas  with  pure  stands 
of  well-grown  trees.  Whether  adorning  the  high  plains 
around  the  Grand  Canyon,  or  climbing  the  hills  among 
the  mountains  of  Idaho,  the  yellow  pine  is  easily  recognized 
by  its  cinnamon-colored  bark  that  breaks  off  in  irregular 
plates  of  jigsaw-like  shapes,  its  columnar  trunk  frequently 
rising  150-200  feet  to  the  tufted  branches,  its  habit  of 
growing  in  scattered  groups  or  patches,  and  also  by  its 

.  18  - 


"floor,"  often  clean  except  for  a  covering  of  its  own 
needles  of  years  before. 

Almost  a  weed,  the  lodgepole  pine  often  grows  in  dense 
patches  and  is  spindly  in  shape,  like  our  crowded  weeds, 
as  for  example  in  Yellowstone  Park.  Yet  it  may  be  a 
stout  tree  if  growing  alone  on  some  outcropping  rock. 
A  lover  of  cold  atmosphere,  it  is  thoroughly  at  home  at 
lower  levels  in  Canada,  but  recedes  into  the  mountains 
southward,  as  far  as  southern  California. 

Many  other  conifers  are  often  mixed :  the  Douglas  fir, 
the  spruce  (as  Engelmann's)  and  several  pines,  partic- 
ularly the  Idaho  white  pine.  One  of  the  most  striking 
evergreens  because  of  its  gray-blue  color — one  often  seen 
in  contrast  with  other  species  along  brooks  or  in  ravines — 
is  the  Colorado  blue  spruce.  Near  the  timber  line  occurs 
the  gnarled  and  stunted  white-stemmed  pine,  whereas  the 
Douglas  fir  and  the  western  larch  predominate  in  wet 
lowlands  at  the  base  of  the  mountain.     Larches  and 


One  of  the  open,  grassy  areas  known  as  "parks,"  scattered  among  the 
forests  of  the  Rockies.     Gunsight  Mountain  in  the  background. 


!  '•*  "'IMS 

1 1 

Virgin  lodgepole  pine  in  Medicine  Bow  National  Forest,  Wyoming. 


spruce  usually  grow  on  low  and  moist  ground,  while  pines 
prefer  the  mountain  slopes.  However,  an  alpine  larch  is 
found  only  at  the  timber  line. 


Deciduous  or  Hardwood  Forest 

Let  us  now  leave  the  coniferous  forests  and  continue 
our  journey  through  the  deciduous  forest,  especially  the 
great  hardwood  forest  of  the  east-central  United  States. 
As  shown  (map,  p.  6),  it  extends  approximately  from  the 
New  England  states  to  the  Mississippi  or  slightly  beyond, 
and  southward  to  eastern  Texas.  It  is  best  seen  south 
of  the  Ohio  River,  in  such  places  as  the  Cumberland  and 
the  Great  Smoky  Mountains  of  Kentucky,  West  Virginia 
and  Tennessee.  To  the  east  and  south,  in  northern 
Georgia,  Alabama,  Mississippi  and  Louisiana,  it  merges 
with  the  coastal  plain  pine  forests  and  to  the  west  with 

-  20  - 


Stand  of  Colorado  blue  spruce  in  the  Colorado  Rockies. 
.  21  • 


At  the  timber  line,  Long's  Peak,  Colorado. 


prairies  along  a  line  marked  roughly  in  the  north  by  the 
Mississippi  River.  In  the  south  it  extends  into  Ar- 
kansas, Texas  and  Oklahoma.  Northward,  many  of  its 
hardier  elements,  together  with  certain  coniferous  trees, 
form  the  mixed  forest  of  the  tier  of  states  between  New 
England  and  Wisconsin  and  south  along  the  Appalachians. 
This  mixed  forest  is  characterized  by  white  pine,  hemlock, 
maple,  beech,  and  birch.  Elsewhere,  as  in  the  southern 
coastal  plain,  the  pines  sometimes  are  mixed  with  live 
oak,  magnolia  and  cypress  or,  as  in  California,  the  live 
oak  and  the  juniper  meet.  In  the  Rockies,  poplars  and 
alders  may  join  clumps  of  spruces  on  lowland  hummocks, 
while  in  other  parts  of  the  country  the  mixture  of  trees 
present  varies  with  local  conditions. 


Central  and  Eastern  Region 

Although  the  deciduous  forest  was  originally  very 
extensive,  it  was  later  largely  cut  down  to  make  room  for 

.  22  ■ 


farming,  except  for  some  sizable  tracts.  The  woods  that 
most  Americans  probably  know  most  intimately  are  the 
small  remnants  of  this  forest,  most  commonly  seen  as 
farm  woodlots  throughout  the  east  and  the  midwest. 
The  commonest  trees  are  oak,  hickory,  pignut,  maple, 
beech,  walnut,  ash,  birch,  red  or  sweet  gum,  locust,  linden 


Typical  Kentucky  woodland  bordering  the  Cumberland  River,  an  area  of 
maximum  development  of  the  deciduous  forest. 


* 


i 


* 


i 


*! 


^**-"J^^^^B 


* 


■"•i*.^ 


3'  WCM 


Rhododendrons  in  Great  Smoky 


tains  National  Park,  Tennessee. 


Spruce,  fir,  white  pine,  and  hardwoods  on  th' 


•pes  of  the  Presidential  Range  in  New  Hampshire. 


Oaks  and  maples  at  Turkey  Run  State  Park,  Indiana. 


and  sycamore,  in  former  times  the  chestnut,  and  south- 
ward the  tulip  tree.  Many  ancestral  homes  were  con- 
structed of  the  enduring  walnut  and  oak;  many  hickory 
logs  supplied  the  fireplace  heat.  Familiar  and  loved  by 
many  is  the  steep  slope  shaded  by  the  gray-branched 
beech,  a  rolling  sunny  stretch  of  scattered  oak  or  hickory, 
creeks  bordered  by  maple,  ash,  walnut,  and  witch-hazel. 
If  you  have  not  yet  seen  these  woods  and  the  shrubs  and 
wild  flowers  they  harbor,  a  fresh  and  delightful  travel 
experience  awaits  you.    Over  and  over  again  these  and 

-  28  - 


many  other  species  are  found  with  different  shrubs  in 
varying  combinations  throughout  this  vast  area. 

Transition  Zone  to  Grasslands 

In  the  states  bordering  the  west  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  from  Minnesota  to  Texas,  the  transition  from 
the  midwestern  woods  to  the  Great  Plains  and  Prairies 
is  marked  by  poplars  and  cottonwoods,  especially  along 
the  streams,  or  by  oaks  interspersed  with  much  grassland. 
Certain  kinds  of  oak,  red  swamp  maple,  and  hickory,  as 
well  as  other  trees,  may  meet  the  pine  barrens  in  Georgia, 
Tennessee  and  Arkansas,  or  those  along  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
may  contain  an  occasional  magnolia  or  ash,  and  even 


Prickly  pear,  buffalo  grass  and  side  oats  in  a  field  near  Dalhart,  Texas. 


29 


reach  into  the  swamp  lands  of  cypress  and  white  cedar. 
Here  one  can  only  hint  at  the  almost  endless  variations 
in  kinds  and  mixture  of  trees  as  the  conditions  of  tempera- 
ture and  moisture  change,  as  for  example  in  the  sandhills 
between  the  Dakotas  and  Texas. 

Southern  Region 

The  traveler  to  Florida  finds  the  predominantly  sandy 
soil  of  the  peninsula  covered  with  a  vegetation  continuous 
with  that  of  the  southern  coastal  plains,  consisting  of 
southern  pine,  live  oak,  cypress,  and  cabbage  palms,  and 
frequently  marked  by  Spanish  moss  growing  on  trees. 
Citrus  groves  and  rows  of  planted  casuarinas,  so-called 
Australian  pines,  furnish  an  exotic  touch.  As  the  tip  of 
the  peninsula  is  approached,  a  different  type  of  vegetation 
appears,  consisting  of  West  Indian  elements,  such  as 
gumbo-limbo,  satinwood,  fiddle-wood,  figs  and  stoppers, 
with  royal  and  thatch  palms  on  limestone  soils,  seagrape 
and  sea  lavender  along  the  beaches,  and  mangrove  swamps 
along  muddy  shores.  The  many  tropical  plants  en- 
countered, such  as  the  poinsettia  or  Christmas  flower,  the 
poinciana,  the  bougainvilleas,  the  so-called  crotons,  are, 
of  course,  introduced,  as  are  the  coconut  and  other  exotic 
palms. 

The  Everglades,  a  subtropical  marsh  in  Florida,  are 
dotted  with  low  islands  supporting  broad-leaved  trees  and 
shrubs.  In  places  the  level  stretches  of  sawgrass  are 
interrupted  by  deep  sloughs  densely  filled  with  water 
plants.  In  the  hammocks,  isolated  clumps  where  accumu- 
lated humus  supports  hardwoods,  the  most  magnificent 
tree  is  the  live  oak,  with  widely  spreading,  moss-covered 
branches  harboring  various  climbing  plants,  ferns,  and 
orchids.  Oak,  magnolia,  yellow  poplar,  and  redgum  are 
usual  components  of  the  flora  of  the  numerous  hammocks, 
scattered  from  one  end  of  Florida  to  the  other.  The  great 
swamp  formations  are  either  pure  stands  of  cypress  or, 
farther  north,  mixed  stands  of  cypress  and  tupelo  gum. 

.  30  - 


* 


Cabbage  palms  and  Caribbean  pines  in  flatwoods,  near  Marco  Junction, 
Collier  County,  Florida. 


Mangrove  swamp  in  the  Ten  Thousand  Islands,  Florida. 


JL^ferf"? 


X* 


m  ••- 


'    ! 


Live  oaks  covered  with  Spanish  moss  along  a  creek  in  Florida. 


Grasslands 

As  we  journey  across  the  country  anywhere  between 
Canada  and  Texas,  from  one  forest  area  to  the  other, 
we  must  pass  through  a  broad  belt  of  open  land.    The 

.  32  - 


Bald  cypress  with  "knees,"  Reelfoot  Lake,  Tennessee. 


Prairie  and  Great  Plains  states  from  the  Dakotas  to 
Texas  are  the  natural  grasslands  of  North  America  and 
represent  a  characteristic  American  landscape.  Originally 
covered  with  grasses  and  herbs,  they  supported  herds  of 
antelope  and  buffalo,  the  latter  in  numbers  that  now  seem 
fantastic.    To  the  west,  in  Montana,  Colorado,  Wyoming, 

-  33  . 


Characteristic  prairie  landscape,  a  gulch  near  Rock  River,  Wyoming. 


and  New  Mexico,  they  merge,  sometimes  imperceptibly, 
into  drier  slopes  that  may  be  more  or  less  covered  with 
shrubs,  the  forerunners  of  the  foothill  vegetation  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  true  prairie  lacked  trees,  except 
along  the  larger  streams.  Westward,  these  outposts  of 
the  deciduous  forest  consist  of  willows,  cotton  wood,  and 
alder. 


Western  or  Sagebrush  Regions 

In  the  basin  west  of  the  Rockies,  the  so-called  steppes 
with  which  the  prairie  merged  pass  into  semi-desert  areas 
characterized  by  a  mixture  of  low  shrubs,  grasses  and 
other  herbaceous  plants.  In  the  northern  part  of  these 
valleys,  between  the  mountain  ranges,  as  from  Idaho  and 
Washington  to  Colorado,  Utah,  and  northern  Nevada, 
the  characteristic  shrub  is  sagebrush,  sometimes  mixed 
with  or  replaced  by  rabbit  brush.  Except  in  spring,  when 
a  small-grass-herb  covering  appears,  the  surface  of  the 
ground  is  quite  bare.     Cottonwoods  and  willows  grow 

.  34  . 


along  the  rivers,  and  higher  up  the  sagebrush  often  con- 
tinues into  stands  of  timber,  such  as  those  of  yellow  pine. 
To  the  settlers,  sagebrush  was  important,  as  often  it  was 
their  only  fuel.  Many  love  its  peculiar  fragrance,  which 
is  particularly  pungent  after  the  spring  rains. 

In  some  parts  of  the  Great  Basin,  as  the  sagebrush 
area  is  called,  stretches  of  bunch  grass  and  many  perennials 
cover  the  rolling  slopes  before  the  timber  appears.  On 
the  salty  flats  characteristic  of  this  region  and  extending 
for  miles  and  miles,  the  sagebrush  is  replaced  by  several 
shrubs  capable  of  enduring  the  saline  quality  of  the  soil. 
These  are  greasewood,  Suaeda,  and  rabbit  brush.  Some- 
times saline  pools  appear  and,  as  the  season  matures,  they 
are  bordered  with  dense  mats  of  salicornia,  bright  red 
in  color  and  visible  from  far  away. 


Natural  meadow  near  Rock  River,  Wyoming. 


Juniper  trees  on  south-facing  slope  of  valley  in  Utah,  and  chaparral  of 
little  sagebrush  on  the  opposite  side. 


Dry,  steep  hills  in  the  Rockies  and  elsewhere  are 
covered  by  another  characteristic  association  of  plants, 
known  in  California  as  "chaparral."  It  consists  of  a  dense 
growth  of  "bush"  chiefly  of  various  broad-leaved  ever- 
greens, such  as  species  of  manzanita  and  "mountain 
mahogany"  in  California,  or  of  dwarf  oaks  and  "mountain 
mahogany"  in  the  Rockies. 


Southwestern  Desert 

Although  continuous  with  the  sagebrush  area  of  the 
Great  Basin,  the  so-called  deserts  of  the  southwest,  at 

>  36  - 


least  in  southern  Texas,  Arizona,  and  westward,  are 
characterized  by  a  totally  different  climate  and  a  com- 
pletely different  type  of  vegetation.  There  millions  of 
plants  appear  in  flower  after  the  rainy  season,  and  in 
reality  most  of  the  deserts  harbor  a  rich  plant-life.  Three 
types  of  these  subtropical  deserts  can  conveniently  be 
recognized:  the  California  desert,  marked  by  the  creosote 
bush;  the  succulent  desert,  chiefly  of  Arizona  and  Cali- 
fornia, characterized  by  the  abundance  of  cacti;  and  the 
thorn  or  small  tree  desert,  of  California,  Nevada  and 
Utah.  The  real  appeal  of  the  desert  itself  cannot  be 
doubted,  regardless  of  how  it  is  divided  according  to  the 
plants  growing  in  the  different  areas.  Whether  the 
traveler  is  visiting  the  desert  in  northern  Arizona,  at  the 


Chaparral  near  Anza,  Riverside  County,  California. 


37 


Slopes  with  creosote  bush  in  Death  Valley,  California. 


Sagebrush  in  northern  Arizona. 


Z&&&&2& 


edge  of  that  vast  eroded  area  of  a  thousand  tints,  appro- 
priately named  the  Painted  Desert,  or  crossing  a  zone  of 
the  bizarre  Joshua  trees  scattered  sentinel-like  down  the 
long  slopes  of  southwestern  Nevada,  or  in  a  seemingly 
endless  tract  of  mesquite  and  acacia,  covering  much  of 
Arizona,  California  and  other  areas,  or  feeling  lost  in  the 
fantastic  atmosphere  created  by  a  forest  of  the  great 
columnar  cacti,  the  sahuaro,  his  sense  of  beauty  will  be 
quickened,  his  interest  aroused! 

The  more  conspicuous  plants  that  attract  attention  in 
traveling  through  some  of  the  vast  floor-like  deserts  of 
the  southwest,  especially  through  southern  Arizona,  are 
the  resinous  evergreen  shrub,  the  creosote  bush,  the  acacia 
or  catclaw,  "huishchu,"  the  mesquite,  agave  and  yucca, 
various  cacti  such  as  the  barrel  and  columnar  types,  and 
the  branched  flat-pointed  opuntias  that  are  known  as 
chollas. 

In  certain  areas  some  small  trees  occur,  chiefly  the  palo 


Joshua  trees  In  Arizona. 


The  changed  landscape;  farms  now  occupy  land  once  covered  by  forests. 
Scene  near  Palouse,  Washington. 


verde,  so  called  because  of  its  green  bark,  and  the  iron- 
wood,  palo  hierro. 


Man-made  Landscapes 

Although  traveling  across  the  country  no  longer  im- 
plies real  hardship,  our  forefathers  often  found  it  difficult, 
if  not  hazardous,  to  penetrate  the  unknown  extensive 
areas  then  covered  by  dense  virgin  forest.  Gradually 
large  sections  of  these  forests  were  cut  and  the  land  was 
made  usable.     Today  much  of  this  land  is  cultivated, 

.  40  * 


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41 


presenting  an  entirely  different  appearance.  Many  native 
and  introduced  plants  now  grow  here  under  the  watchful 
eye  of  the  farmer.  While  some  farmland  may  support  a 
variety  of  crops  in  certain  areas,  one  crop  may  often  be 
best  suited  to  the  local  conditions.  Thus  we  come  to 
speak  of  the  midwestern  corn  belt  and  the  cotton  belt  of 
the  south,  although  we  know  that  both  corn  and  cotton 
are  also  grown  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  Conversely, 
the  observant  traveler  will  note  that  not  all  land  in  any 
one  belt  is  planted  to  the  principal  crop.  The  uniformity 
of  great  forest  expanses  is  never  seen  where  agriculture 
has  taken  over  the  land.  Rather,  we  see  various  patterns 
resulting  from  different  kinds  of  farming  (see  map,  p.  41). 
The  landscape  thus  created  by  man  in  the  wake  of  the 
original  vegetation  has  become  as  much  a  part  of  our 
country  as  its  large  cities,  towns,  and  farms. 

Here  we  may  fittingly  conclude  our  travelogue  devoted 
to  some  of  the  more  striking  formations  of  plants,  especially 
of  forests,  seen  in  the  various  parts  of  the  country.  It  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  remark  that  the  picture  presented  is 
fleeting  and  impressionistic.  But  we  hope  that  your 
interest  has  been  aroused  and  that  your  future  trips  will 
thereby  be  enriched. 


I  wish  to  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  to  Dr.  B.  E. 
Dahlgren  and  others,  who  helped  me  in  preparing  this 
leaflet.  Dr.  Theodor  Just  has  generously  shouldered  most 
of  the  responsibility  in  the  final  selection  of  illustrations 
and  the  ultimate  form  of  the  text. 


42 


Acknowledgments 


The  illustrations  accompanying  this  travelogue  were  selected 
from  among  those  contained  in  the  files  of  the  Department  of  Botany, 
Chicago  Natural  History  Museum,  and  various  published  or  private 
sources.  Permission  for  the  use  of  these,  granted  by  the  following 
individuals,  governmental  agencies  and  publishing  companies,  is 
herewith  gratefully  acknowledged. 

Chicago  Natural  History  Museum:  figure  on  page  13. 

B.  E.  Dahlgren,  Chicago  Natural  History  Museum:  figures  on  page  31. 

Carl  Epling,  University  of  California  at  Los  Angeles:  figures  on 
pages  15,  16,  17,  18,  37. 

Edward  H.  Graham,  Soil  Conservation  Service,  Washington,  D.C.: 
figure  on  page  36. 

Elliot  Lyman  Fisher,  Asheville,  North  Carolina:  figure  on  pages  24,  25. 

Theodor  Just,  Chicago  Natural  History  Museum:  figures  on  pages  10, 
22,  33,  38. 

E.  J.  Kraus,  University  of  Chicago:  figures  on  cover  and  frontispiece, 
and  on  pages  11,  14,  21,  28,  32,  40. 

Susan  Delano  McKelvey,  Boston,  Massachusetts:  figure  on  page  39. 

National  Parks  Service,  Copyright  Fred  H.  Kiser,  Washington,  D.C.: 
figure  on  page  19. 

Charles  E.  Olmsted,  University  of  Chicago:  figures  on  pages  29,  38. 

R.  J.  Pool,  University  of  Nebraska:  figure  on  page  6. 

State  Board  of  Horticulture,  Laramie,  Wyoming:  figures  on  pages  34, 
35. 

United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Yearbook  of  Agriculture, 
1928:  figure  on  page  42. 

United  States  Department  of  the  Interior,  National  Parks  Service: 
figure  on  inside  cover. 

United  States  Forest  Service:  figures  on  pages  8,  9,  20,  23,  26,  27. 


.  43 


Helpful  Books  for  the  Traveler 


General 

Boerker,  R.  H.  D.  1945.  Behold  Our  Green  Mansions.  A  Book 
about  American  Forests.  University  of  North  Carolina  Press, 
Chapel  Hill. 

Readable  account  of  American  forests  and  their  importance 
in  modern  life  and  economy.    Good  illustrations. 

Graham,  E.  H.  1944.  Natural  Principles  of  Land  Use.  Oxford 
University  Press,  New  York. 

Excellent  explanation  of  the  scientific  principles  and  modern 
methods  of  land  use.    Profusely  illustrated. 

Matoon,  W.  R.    1936.    Forest  Trees  and  Forest  Regions  of  the  United 
States.    U.  S.  Dept.  Agr.,  Misc.  Publ.  217. 
Very  useful  and  reliable  guide. 

Van  Dersal,  W.  R.  1943.  The  American  Land:  Its  History  and  Its 
Uses.    Oxford  University  Press,  New  York. 

Very  informative  and  well-written  book  on  the  American  scene, 
its  history,  development  and  future. 


Botanical 

Bowers,  N.  A.  1942.  Cone  Bearing  Trees  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Whittlesey  House  Field  Guide  Series. 

Convenient  pocket  guide,  well  illustrated. 

Brown,  H.  P.  1937.  Trees  of  the  Northeastern  States.  Christopher 
Publishing  House,  Boston. 

Detailed  descriptions  accompanied  by  fine  drawings. 

Eliot,  W.  A.  1938.  Forest  Trees  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  G.  P.  Putnam's 
Sons,  New  York. 

Good  descriptions  and  many  illustrations. 

Harlow,  W.  M.  1942.  Trees  of  the  Eastern  United  States  and  Canada. 
Their  Woodcraft  and  Wildlife  Uses.    McGraw-Hill,  New  York. 

Convenient  pocket  manual  with  brief  descriptions  and  illus- 
trations. 

Harlow,  W.  M.  and  Harrar,  E.  S.  1941.  Textbook  of  Dendrology 
Covering  the  Important  Forest  Trees  of  the  United  States  and  Canada. 
Second  edition.    McGraw-Hill,  New  York. 

Good  descriptions  and  illustrations  of  the  important  species  of 
trees.    Detailed  bibliography  of  the  literature  dealing  with  trees. 

-  44  - 


Harrar,  E.  S.  and  J.  G.    1946.    Guide  to  Southern  Trees.   Whittlesey 
House  Field  Guide  Series. 

Convenient  pocket  guide,  well  illustrated. 

Jaeger,  E.  C.     1941.     Desert  Wild  Flowers.     Stanford  University 
Press. 

Kirkwood,  J.  M.    1930.    Rocky  Mountain  Trees  and  Shrubs.    Stan- 
ford University  Press. 

Good  descriptions  and  illustrations  of  the  woody  plants  grow- 
ing in  this  area. 

McMinn,  H.  E.  and  Maino,  E.     1935.     An  Illustrated  Manual  of 
Pacific  Coast  Trees.    University  of  California  Press,  Berkeley. 

Detailed  descriptions  and  illustrations  of  the  trees  growing  in 
the  Pacific  Coast  Area. 

Peattie,  D.  C.    1934.    Trees  You  Want  to  Know.    Whitman  Publish- 
ing Co.,  Racine,  Wisconsin. 

Smallest  pocket  guide,  beautifully  illustrated  with  colored 
figures  of  the  most  common  trees. 


-  45 


Ind 


ex 


Acacia,  39,  40 
Agave,  40 
Alder,  12,  22,  34 
Ash,  23,  28,  29 
Aspen,  12 

Beech,  22,  23,  28 
Birch,  22,  23 
Bougainvillea,  30 
Bunch  grass,  34 

Cactus,  barrel,  40 

Sahuaro,  39 
Casuarina,  30 
Catclaw,  40 
Cedar,  canoe,  15,  17 

white,  29 
Chaparral,  36 
Chestnut,  28 
Cottonwood,  29,  34 
Creosote  bush,  37,  40 
Croton,  30 
Cypress,  15,  22,  29,  30 

Lawson,  17 

Monterey,  16 

Desert,  36-40 

Ferns,  30 
Fiddle-wood,  30 
Figs,  30 
Fir,  balsam,  12 

Douglas,  15,  16,  19 

great,  13,  15 

red,  15 
Forest,  coniferous,  10-19 

deciduous  or  hardwood,  10,  20- 
28 

Grassland,  29,  32 

Greasewood,  35 

Gum,  red  or  sweet,  23,  30 

tupelo,  30 
Gumbo-limbo,  30 

Hemlock,  12,  13,  15,  22 

coast,  17 
Hickory,  23,  28,  29 
Huishchu,  40 


Joshua  tree,  39 
Juniper,  15,  18,  22 

Landscapes,  man-made,  42 
Larch,  alpine,  19 
western,  17,  19 
Linden,  23 
Locust,  23 

Magnolia,  22,  29,  30 
Mangroves,  30 
Manzanita,  36 
Maple,  22,  23,  28 

red  or  swamp,  29 
Mesquite,  39,  40 
Mountain  mahogany,  36 

Oak,  12,  22,  23,  28,  29,  30 

dwarf,  36 

live,  22,  30 
Opuntia,  40 
Orchids,  30 

Palm,  cabbage,  30 

coconut,  30 

royal,  30 

thatch,  30 
Palo  hierro,  40 

verde,  40 
Pignut,  23 
Pine,  Australian,  30 

Idaho  white,  19 

jack,  12 

loblolly,  12 

lodgepole,  19 

longleaf,  12 

red  (Norway),  12 

slash,  12 

southern,  30 

sugar,  15 

Torrey,  16 

white,  12,  15,  22 

yellow,  15,  16,  18,  35 
Plains,  Great,  29 
Poinciana,  30 
Poinsettia,  12,  30 
Poplar,  22,  29 

yellow,  30 
Prairies,  29 


-  46  - 


Rabbit  brush,  34,  35  Stoppers,  30 

Redwood,  15  Suaeda,  35 

Sycamore,  28 
Sagebrush,  34,  35 

SaRcornia  35  Tamarack,  12 

Satinwood  30  Transition  zone,  29-30 

§£££2o  Tulip  tree,  28 

Spanish  moss,  30  billow   12',34 

Spruce,  13,  17,  22  Witch-hazel,  28 

Colorado  blue,  19 

Engelmann,  17,  19  Yucca,  40 


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