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DERBYSHtR£ CAMPAIGN SERIES 

SiKKlM EXPEDITION OF 1888J 





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THE 2nd battalion DERBYSHIRE REGIM^T 
IN THE SIKKIM EXPEDITION OF 1888 



THE OTHER VOLUMES OF THE SERIES 

are 

1. The 95th Regiment (the Derbyshire Regiment) in the 
Crimea. By Major H. C. Wylly, with Introduc- 
tion by Majob-General J. F. Maurice, C.B. 

12. The 2ncl Battalion Derbyshire Regiment in Central 
India. By General Sir Julius Baines, with 
Introduction by Colonel H. D. Hutchinson. 

8. The 2nd Battalion Derbyshire Regiment in the 
Egyptian Campaign of 1882. By Major E. A. 
G. GossET, with Introduction by Colonel H. L. 
Smith-Dorrien, B.S.O. 

6. The 2nd Battalion Derbyshire Regiment In the 
Tirah Campaign of 1897-98. By Captain A. K. 
Slessor, with Introduction by Brigadier-General 
Sir R. C. Hart, V.C., KCB. 



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CONTENTS. 



Chapter I. p^^^ 

Natural Features of Sikkim— Beligion and Politics . . 1 

Chaftxr n. 
Gt and H Companies leave Dum-Dum — ^March from Silligori 

to Padong — ^Disposition of the Force .... 4 

Chaftbb III. 
Advance — ^Action of Jeluksoo^Capture of Lingtu . . 14 

chaftsb rv. 

Life at Lingtu — Move to Gnatong — ^Activity among the 

Thibetans 29 

Chaftbb V. 
Attack in force by Thibetans — ^Action of Gnatong— Life 

in the Monsoon — ^Reinforcements ordered up . . 39 

Chaftbb VI. 
Betum to Darjeeling ordered — Sudden orders to return 
to Gnatong — ^More Beinforcements— Headquarters 
Derbyshire Regiment arrive 54 

Chaftbb VII. 
Headquarters leave Dum-Dum — March of C and E 
Companies — Arrival of 2nd Battalion of the 1st 
Gurkhas — Cake Competition 67 

chaftbr vni. 

Final preparations for Advance — Defeat of Thibetans 
and Capture of Jelapla Pass — Capture of Binchin- 
gong — ^Advance to Chumbi — ^Betom to Gnatong . 77 

Chafexb IX. 
Autumn and Winter at Gnatong — Arrival of Chinese 
Amban — Proceed to quarters at Jubbulpore — 
Inspection by Sir F. B<:^l)erts, G.C.B. — Conclusion . 96 

Affbndix a. Boll of Officers and Sergeants . . . 107 

Affendix B. ' General Graham's Despatch . . 106 



INTEODUCTION. 



The immediate cause of the Sikkim Expedi- 
tion of 1888 was the despatch by the Thibetan 
authorities of an armed force of 300 men, 
across the Sikkim Frontier, to occupy a 
position at Lingtu which commanded the 
trade route between Darjeeling and Thibet. 
The circumstances, however, which had led up 
to the outrage, and the consideratione which 
permitted the Government of India to sit quiet 
under it from September, 1886, till March, 
1888, require further explanation ; they were 
in reality the outcome of our relations with 
Sikkim, and of our endeavour to open up trade 
with Thibet, through that country, Oiu" first 
engagement with Sikkim dates from the 
conclusion of the Nepal war, when in 1817 
we restored to Sikkim a great portion of the 
country wrested from it by the encroachments 
of Nepal during the previous forty years — and 
indeed added to it. This engagement distinctly 
affirmed the feudatory position of the Maharajah 
of Sikkim to the British Government. 

In 1835 he ceded to us the district of 
Darjeeling, and was subsequently granted an 
allowance of 6000 rupees a year, increased at 
a later period to 12,000 rupees. In 1849, and 
again in 1860, punitive measures had to be 
adopted in consequence of gross outrages on 



VI. THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

the part of the Sikkim authorities, and the 
latter expedition, under Colonel Crawler, with 
the Honourable A, Eden as political officer, led 
to the adoption of a fresh treaty in 1861. This 
treaty, after providing for the expenses of the 
war, good behaviour, extradition, trade, &c., 
contains some special provisions bearing on the 
subsequent trouble with Thibet. (1) The 
British Grovemment acquired the right to 
make a road through Sikkim. (2) Sikkim 
undertook that its whole military force should 
join and aid British troops when employed in 
the hills, (3) That it should not cede or lease 
territory to any other state without permission 
of the British Grovernment. (4) That no 
armed force belonging to any other state 
should pass through Sikkim without the 
sanction of the British Government. (6) 
That the Maharajah should transfer the seat 
of his Government from Chumbi, in Thibet, 
to Sikkim, and should reside there for nine 
months in every year. 

For the next twenty years things went fairly 
well ; the road from Darjeeling to the Thibetan 
Frontier at the Jelap Pass was^ade under the 
auspices of Mr. (now Sir John) Edgar, and 
traders began to make use of it ; and save for a 
suspicion of some secret negotiation in 1879 
between the Sikkim Minister, with the Thibetans 
and the Chinese Amban (resident), the influence 
of the Thibetans over the Sikkim Government 
seems to have led to no serious apprehensions. 
But the influence was always there, and there 
was always a Thibetanising party among the 



INTRODUCmON, 



Vll, 



Maharajali's entourage* The dynasty, it sliould 
be explained, was possibly of Thibetan extrac- 
tion ; the ruling chief had certainly for several 
generations received his wife from Thibet. 
The family estate, or jaghir, was at Chumbij on 
the Thibetan side of the Jelap. These circum- 
stances led to close relations with Thibet, and to 
the Maharajah spending much of his time there. 
On the other band the Maharajah's own people 
of Sikkim were LepchaSj differing in race and 
language from the Tliibetans, and to them the 
growth of Thibetan influences at Court was 
very unwelcome. To this feeling was due the 
insertion in the treaty of 1861 of the unusual 
provision, that the Rajah should reside for nine 
months in Sikkim and have the headquarters 
of his Government there. And the situation 
can only be understood by bearing in mind that 
there were two parties in Sikkim, one trying 
to bring the Rajah and his policy under the 
influence and sway of the Thibetan officials; 
the other, that of the leading Lepcha families, 
striving to exclude Thibetan influence and 
looking to the Rajah's dependence on the Indian 
Authorities as the main safeguard of the 
situation. 

In 1S80 the Maharajah's wife died. By the 
influence of his mother and relatives living at 
Chumbi, he was betrothed to the daughter of 
a minor Thibetan Official. This lady^ — ^after 
the polyandrous habits of the Thibetans — lived 
during the period of her betrothal with 
the Maharajah's half-brother, TinlS — a pure 
Thibetan — and bore a child by him before she 



Vlll, THE SIKKJM CAMPAIGN. 

had seen the Rajah. She soon, howeverj 
acquired extensive influence over the Bajah, 
aod while the tension between the two partiee 
in the Sikkim State became daily more acute, 
the Thibetan influence rapidly preponderated^ 
till in 1885 the Rajah went to Chumbi and 
remained there for two years, and became 
wholly estranged from his Sikkim advisers. In 
the meantime he had entered into direct 
engagements of subordination with Thibet and 
China ; when the Indian Grovemment withheld 
his pension, he ordered his officials in Sikkim 
to collect all the revenue they could get together 
and to send it to him in Thibet. When 
the Lieutenant-Governor summoned him into 
Darjeeling, he replied by saying that the 
Thibetan and Chinese Governments had for* 
bidden him to obey. He had thus openly 
repudiated his treaty engagements, and it would 
have been, in any case, necessary to take 
measures to enforce them and to strengthen 
the party friendly to us in Sikkim, when the 
question became seriously complicated by the 
direct action of the Thibetans* 

It was known that the making of the road 
to the Jelap, &c., had been viewed with some 
apprehension by Thibet, or at least by the 
predomioating Lama-class in Thibet. These 
latter are great traders, and in their hands lies 
the monopoly of the trade in China tea — -used 
by every man, woman, and child in the country 
— and anything which facilitates external com- 
petition with their very profitable business 
would naturally be unwelcome. On the top of 



INTRODUCTION. 



IX. 



this came — ^in 1885-86— the proposal to send a 
serious commercial mission into Thibet under 
Mr, Macaulay. This proposal commended 
itself warmly to Lord Randolph Churchill^ the 
Secretary of State for India, and Her Majesty's 
Government applied for and receiTcd the per- 
mission of the Chinese (uot of the Thibetan) 
Authorities for the mission to go. Considerable 
preparations were made at Darjeeling and 
created real alarm among the Thibetans, The 
nature and scope of the mission was enormously 
exaggerated ; the Thibetans professed to believe 
that theh^ religion and independence were in 
danger, at all events their pronounced hostility 
so worked on the Chinese Authorities that a 
formal request was made by them to Her 
Majesty*s Government that the missioD should 
be withdrawn; and accordingly withdrawn it 
was. While the negotiations for withdrawal 
were going on in another part of the world, 
the Thibetan Authorities adopted the measure 
spoken of above; they marched 300 men into 
Sikldm territory, 13 miles across the Frontier, 
occupied and roughly fortified a position astride 
the Darjeeling^ — Thibet road, stopped all trade, 
and treated the country as their own. The 
Maharajah at Chumbi neither remonstrated 
nor opposed, nor even reported the outrage to 
the British Authorities; in other words he 
acquiesced as a Feudatory of Thibet. 

To him and to others it must have appeared 
as if the Government of India acquiesced like- 
wise. No steps were taken to turn out the 
Thibetans. At first it was thought, not un- 



X. THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

naturally, that the withdrawal of the mission 
would be followed by the withdrawal of 
the Thibetans. It was not so; they showed 
that they intended to yield to nothing but 
force, and force Lord Dufferin would not 
employ if he could help it. Diplomatically, of 
course, China as the suzerain of Thibet is res- 
ponsible for the actions of its Feudatory and 
negotiates on her behalf ; but in practice China, 
even then, could influence Thibet only to a 
small extent and after applying protracted 
pressure. The Grovernment, however, both in 
Simla and in London, was at that time, like the 
rest of the world, impressed with a belief in 
the reality of the Chinese power, and it was 
decided to endeavour, through the British 
Ambassador at Pekin, to' secure the with- 
drawal of the armed Thibetans, by order of 
the Chinese Emperor. 

In the cold weather of 1886 a handful of 
armed police might have secured this by direct 
action (but it was dilQ&cult then to foresee what 
the consequences of such action might be), and 
probably nothing more would have been heard 
of it. By relying on the powerful Chinese 
Empire we had to postpone all action for a 
year and a half, and then to send a large and 
costly expedition to do what the Chinese 
Government undertook, but neither could nor 
would perform. The British Ambassador in 
Pekin was occupied in negotiating with the 
Tsungli Yamen from February, 1887, for the 
rest of the year. Ultimately, in October, Lord 
Dufferin getting no reply, observed that as the 



INTRODUCTION. XI. 

matter seemed to be of small importance to the 
Chinese Government, be should proceed to 
turn the Thibetans out at once< This was 
answered from Chma with exousesj and further 
requests for delay, which was so far conceded 
that notice, both to the Chinese Government 
and to the Thibetan authoritieSj was given, 
that if the Thibetans had not evacuated 
Lingtu by the 15th March, 1888, force would 
be applied to expel them. The 15th March 
was chosen as the earliest date on which 
military operations at that altitude could be 
conveniently undertaken. As a matter of fact 
preparations were made in January, with the 
best efiect so far as our sympathisers in Sikkim 
were concerned, and five days after the term of 
grace given by Lord Dufferin had expired the 
expulsion was effected- 

This is not the place to deal with the events 
of the campaign, but a few words are necessary 
as to the diplomatic results obtained by the 
exertions of our troops. 

The Thibetans were defeated, driven over the 
Jelapla, pursued to Chumbi, and dispersed at 
the end of September, 1888. On the 5th 
October the Chinese resident or Amban sent 
word that he was coming to make peace. 
After weary weeks of waiting, evasion, 
excuses, and intrigue, he ultimately arrived 
on the 21st December, and negotiations were 

^ carried on ineffectually for about a month. 
Sir M. Durand and Mr. Paul, who were the 
representatives of the Indian Government, 
finally broke off the negotiations at the end 



XU. THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

of January, on the refusal of the Chinese 
representative to relinquish, on the part of 
Thibet, all claim to suzerainty over Sikkim. 
The Chinese resident, however, was bidden 
by his Government to remain where he was : 
Mr. Hart, of the Chinese customs service, was 
sent by that Government to assist him, and 
arrived in March. Negotiations were again 
begun, but all this delay rendered it necessary 
to retain British troops for another year in the 
desolate camp at Gnatong, at an elevation of 
some 12,000 feet above the sea, and only in 1890 
was the convention ultimately signed. The 
agreement provided for the boundary between 
Thibet and Sikkim being settled in accordance 
with our contentions ; for the recognition of the 
British Protectorate over Sikkim, with exclusive 
control over its internal administration and its 
foreign relations ; and in the future, for trade 
facilities, which have, I may add, been 
systematically evaded. So far as Sikkim is 
concerned, the effect has been admirable ; the 
country is progressing peaceably and rapidly, 
untroubled by Thibetan aggressiveness. The 
Maharajah made one more attempt to return 
surreptitiously to Thibet, but was detained by 
the Nepalese, through whose territory he 
attempted to pass, and was ignominiously 
brought back. But the Thibetans — save for 
the lesson they learnt in the fighting at 
Gnatong and on the Tukola — ^were let off very 
cheaply for their wanton aggression. 

STBUART BAYLBY. 



-:f>i. 







\ 

\ ^ 






^IfVIK^V 



■^tvMjnsfll } ^ ^ \ 



CHAPTER I. 



Natural features and esdent of Sikkim — Eellgrion and politics. 



Before proceeding to describe in detail the part the 
2iid Battalion Derbyshire Regiment took in tlie 
military operations known to history aa the Sikkim 
campaigo/which occurred dming 1888, it is as well, 
I think, to give some short description of the country 
and the people of Sikkim. 

Sikkim is an Independent State whose territoiy 
comprises some 3600 square miles of country, wedged 
in between the larger Independent States of Nepal 
and Bhutan, which occupy that large strip of country 
immediately under the great range of the Himalaya 
mountains to the north of Bengal and the North 
West Provinces of India. Sikkim is bounded on the 
north by Thibet, on the south by Bengal, on the oast 
by Thibet and Bhutan, and on the w^est by Nepal ; it 
is, roughly speaking, a parallelogram of about ninety 
miles in length by forty miles in breadth. Situated on 
the southern slope of the Himalayas, Sikkim is an 
extremely mountainous country, containing some of 
the grandest mountain scenery in the world. Its 
boundaries, indeed, are for the greater part in 
perpetual snow, and that most remarkable mountain 
Kinchinjunga, wliich, with Mount Everest in Nepal, 
competes for the sovereignty of the mountain world, 
is on the boundary between Sikkim and Nepal, and 
towers to the immense height of 28,156 feet. The 
country is intersected with deep valleys containing 
rivers and streams draining the snows, which are ever 
in view, on almost all sides. The principal rivers, the 



2 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

Teesta and Ranjeet, have their junction some eight 
miles only from Darjeeling. The mountains rise 
precipitously from the rivers and streams, and there 
is next to no level ground throughout the whole 
country. Owing to the large rainfall attracted by 
the adjacent snows, the mountains of Sikkim are 
densely clothed with rank and luxurious vegetation, 
and the thickest and most impenetrable jungle of 
cane, bamboo, wild plantain, tree ferns, and quantities 
of other exotic trees and plants too numerous to 
mention. SuflSce it to say that it is impossible, where 
paths and clearings have not been made, to move off 
the beaten track in any direction. This dense vegeta- 
tion exists up to 8000 feet, above which the cane and 
bamboo cease, and the evergreen-oak, rhododendron, 
and species of fir tree take their place up to 12,000 or 
13,000 feet, beyond which altitude all vegetation gets 
sparse, and the mountain sides remain exposed, when 
not covered by snow. It will be understood, therefore, 
that the country in which our military operations 
against the Thibetans was to take place, was of a 
nature likely to occasion considerable hardships and 
difficulties to the troops employed. 

China, the nominal suzerain power of Thibet, had 
been frequently approached diplomatically to settle 
our disputes with the Thibetans and to compel them 
to retire to their own frontier; but she either could 
not or would not do anything in the matter. 

Consequently, at the beginning of 1888, after all 
diplomatic efforts had failed, it was decided to enforce 
our rights in Sikkim, and expel the Thibetans by 
force, if needs be, from that country. China was 
politely informed of our intentions, and in February, 
1888, orders were issued by the Government of India 
for the formation of a small force under Colonel 
Graham, R.A., to effect the desired object, and restore 
order once more in Sikkim. 

The Sikkim Field Force detailed under Colonel 
Graham, R.A., who was given the local rank of 



COMPOSITION OF FORCE. 



s 



Brigadier-General, was^ to commence with, composed 
as follows: — 4 ^ns of Mountain Artillery (No» 9-1 
Northern Division R.A.,) under Major Keith; 200 
men 2nd Battalion Derbyshire Infantry, under 
Captain Wylly ; one regimeut, 700 strong, 32nd 
Pioneers (Musbee Sikhs), xmder Ldeut-Colonel Sir 
Benjamin Bromhead; 400 men 13th Bengal Infantry, 
under Ldeut. -Colonel Mitehell ; — with orders to 
assemble at Padong in Sikkim on March 12th 1888, 
and having its base at Silligori, the junction of the 
Eastern Bengal and Darjeelin^ Railways, a place 
some eight miles from the foot of the Himalayas, near 
the debouchure of the river Teesta. The whole force 
numbered some 1300 men, with 4 gmis, and with a 
propoiiionate number of Medical Officers, Transport, 
&c. This force was subsequently increased in 
August, 1888, by two more guns, 9-1 RA. ; 300 men 
of the 2nd Derbyshire Regiment, under Lieut.-Colonel 
McCleverty; and the 2nd Battalion 1st Regiment of 
Gurkhas, 600 strong, under Lieut.-Colonel Rogers; 
and again in October, 1888, by a company of Bengal 
Sappers and Miners, under Captain Sandliich, R.E* 

in penning the history of this campaign, the 
author would wish it to be clearly undei-stood that 
the narrative is dealt with purely from a regimental 
point of view, and that in the following pages the 
object is to descril>e the important part taken in the 
Sikkim campaign by the men of the 2nd Battalion 
Derbyshire (95th) Regiment, who, with the Mountain 
Battery No. 9-1 R.A,, were the only British troops 
who served in this unique and rather tiresome hili 
war ; unique, because it took place at an altitude and 
under climatic conditions imparalleled in the history of 
British Frontier Wars, and irksome on account of its 
long duration and the negative and indecisive action 
of the British Government, due to fear of complica- 
tions mth China. 



CHAPTER n. 

Gt ftnd H Companies Derbyshire Begiment join Sikkim Field 
Foroe — ^Leave Dnm Dam by rail to Silligori — ^Maroh up the 
Teesta Valley to Fadong — Disposition of the Force. 

It was notified in the Indian daily papers on January 
28th, 1888, that two companies of the 2nd Battalion 
Derbyshire Begiment, then stationed at Dum Dum, 
some eight mues from Calcutta, would be sent to 
Sikkim, to form part of the force to quell the 
disturbance there, but it was not until late at night 
on the 25th of February that orders arrived in the 
regiment for two companies, 100 strong each, to hold 
themselves in immediate readiness to depart for 
active service in Sikkim. 

lieut-Colonel Golding, who then commanded the 
2nd Derbyshire Begiment, detailed letters G and H 
Companies to go, and there was great excitement 
amongst the subaltern offices as to who would be 
told off to make up the full complement of three 
officers per com^ny. Letter G Company was 
Captain Harold Wylly's company, and letter H 
Company Captain E. Gosset's company. It was 
finally settled that Lieutenants J. Bowman and H. 
Igralden should be the two subalterns of G Company, 
and Lieutenants G. R Temple and A. Heyman, of H 
Company. All these officers, with the exception of 
Lieutenant A. Heyman, had seen previous active 
service in Egypt in 1882. The companies were made 
up to a hundi^ strong each, all weakly men were 



DEPARTtJBE OF DETACHMENT. 



weeded out, and volunteers from other companies 
taken in their place, so that when the order came 
after a few days for the men to entrain, and the two 
companies marched down to the railway station, there 
was every reason for the regiment to be proud of the 
first instalment of men despatched by it for active 
service in Sikkim, as it would have been hard to have 
found a finer-looking lot of men than the Sikkim 
detachment of the Derbyshire Regiment in the 
Indian Army. 

The two companies of the regiment under Captain 
Goaset left Dum Dum by train at mid-day on the 6th 
of March, 1888, being seen off by the remainder of the 
regiment. Lieut.-Colonel Golding, whose tenure of 
command was about to expire^ made a short and 
stirring speech to the men previous to their marching 
off, and in wishing them " Good-bye " said how proud 
he was that one of his last acts with the 95th was 
to despatch part of his regiment on active service, 
although much regretting at the same time that he 
WSLB unable to accompany them. He complimented 
the men on their fine appearance^ and in wishing 
them God speed felt sure that they would do 
credit to their country and the good name of their 
regiment. 

We proceeded by rail from Dum Dum to Silligori, 
about 350 miles, having to cross the Ganges at Sara 
Ghat by steamer at about eleven at night, which 
necessitated some labour on the men loading and un- 
loading baggage ; and Lower Bengal at the beginning 
of March is tolerably hot. 

Silligori, the base of the operations, was reached 
on the afternoon of tlie 7th of March, where we found 
Captain WyHy, who now took over the connnand of 
the detachment, as being the senior officer. 

Tlie camp was about a quarter of a mile fi*om the 
station, and we were accommodated in huts made of 
grass and bamboo, as we did not receive our tents till 
we reached Padong, a place in Sikkim four marches 



6 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

on. We found this place, Silligori, which is at the 
foot of the Himalayas and is the junction of the 
Eastern Bengal and Darjeeling Railways, much cooler 
than Dum Dum. 

The detachment soon had its baggage in camp, 
and, with a welcome wash after the cramped and 
dusty railway journey, was fairly comfortable. We 
were informed that we should not be required to 
march from Silligori till the 9th March, so had a day 
in camp to spare. This Captain Wylly wisely 
occupied in telling-off and mule-loadinff parades ; very 
necessary proceemngs, as it was found a good many 
men had forgotten how to pack and load mules, 
which were to be our transport. All old campaigners 
know the great importance of packing and loading 
baggage properly to start with on a march in 
mounteinous country, and so prevent frequent halts 
to readjust loads, besides preventing galls to the 
mules and endless bother to the baggage guard; so 
that it always pays to devote great attention to this 
subject previous to a march, as enormous fatigue is 
saved both to men and animals by starting the 
transport with properly adjusted loads. 

Whilst at Silligori the Viceroy, Lord Dufferin, 
passed through on his way from Darjeeling to 
Calcutta. Our Brigadier, Colonel Graham, R.A., with 
his D.A.A.G., Captein Travers, had met the detach- 
ment on its arrival at Silligori, and the General had 
expressed his approbation at the appearance of the 
men. These officers proceeded post haste vid 
Darjeeling to Padong, a place on the borders of 
Independent Sikkim, which was to be the rendezvous 
of the Sikkim Field Force. 

Our route from Silligori to Padong occupied four 
marches, the total distance being fifty-two miles. The 
first three of these marches lay for the greater part 
along the Teesta valley, through which the largest of 
the Sikkim rivers of that name flows, and along 
which there was an excellent cart road, rendering 



MAECH THBOUGH THE TERAI. 7 

wheeled transport possible. This road went as far 
as the Teesta suspension bridge, some eighteen miles 
below Darjeeling, and'was largely used by the tea- 
planters of the Dooars and Teeste valley for conveying 
their produce to the rail head at Silligori. 

On the 9th March the detachment of the Derbys 
paraded at four a.m., and after the mules had been 
loaded, each man was made to swallow two grains 
of quinine, which dose was repeated morning and 
evening for the next three days until we ascended 
above the feverish and malarious regions of the Terai 
and the valley of the Teesta. 

The march this day was to Sibhook, about twelve 
and a-half miles, and at five a.m. the Derbys stepped 
off cheerfidly on their first march of the campaign 
with all the precautions of war, notwithstanding we 
should not arrive in the enemies' country for about 
five marches. The road all the way was pretty level, 
though very dusty, and after proceeding about seven 
miles we entered that belt oi forest extending for 
hundreds of miles along the bottom of the Himalayas, 
and known as the Terai. The vegetation became very 
dense, with immense orchid-dad trees, tall reeds and 
grass, and trailing creepers, in which elephants, tigers, 
bison, and game of all sorts is said to be common. As 
the reeds on each side of the road had been burnt, we 
arrived at the end of our march looking like chimney 
sweeps. We found a clearing had been made in the 
forest at Sibhook for our camp, and bamboo huts 
thatched with wild plantain leaves provided as 
shelter. 

Camp Sibhook is situated at the foot of the 
Himalayas, a few hundred yards from the debouchure 
of the river Teesta, and is surrounded by the densest 
forest, being about as jungly a place as one coidd 
wish for. The river Teesta is here a deep, rapid 
stream, about 150 yards wide at this time of the year. 
The water is of a greenish colour, and very cold, as it 
comes straight from the snows. I think every man 



8 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

availed himself of a cold and refreshing wash in the 
river, though swimming, owing to the strong current, 
was forbidden as dangerous; indeed, the water was 
too cold for any one to think of staying in long. 
Tracks of various wild beasts, including tiger and 
bison, were seen, but the forest was tS) dense to 
admit of anything being shot on foot or without an 
elephant. 

The huts that had been run up for us at these 
camping grounds along the Teesta valley, by the 
Public Works Department, were very rough affairs, 
only affording shelter from the sim. The likelihood 
of rain happening at this time of the year in this 
country being considered as extremely remote, all the 
tents had been forwarded to Padong in advance. The 
unexpected, however, generally happens in these 
cases, and for the next three nights we had torrents 
of rain^ and the huts leaking hke sieves and being 
useless as a protection from rain, all hands got very 
wet and uncomfortable ; our first night on the 
campaign was by no means a happy one, and we all 
wished heartily we had brought tents with us. 

On the 10th of March we proceeded up the Teesta 
valley to a camp called Rongli, distance twelve and 
a-half miles. We were late starting off, as everything 
was wet owing to the previous night's soaking. The 
morning, however, was fine and the sim and exercise 
of mardiing soon dispelled all traces of dampness, and 
the Derbys stepped gaily out, as they well knew how 
to, reaching Rongli in excellent time. The route this 
day, although we were well in the moimtains, was still 
quite level, the road lying along the right bank of the 
Teesta all the way. The scenery was very beautiful, 
and in the early morning, with the wild jimgle cock 
shrilly crowing defiance to his enemy across the 
valley, to be replied to in the same strain, the bright 
coloured parrots and other tropical birds flying about, 
made a peaceful and animated sylvan scene calculated 
to rouse to enthusiasm a naturalist's or an artist's 



MAKCHING IN THE HILLS. 



9 



fancies. Towards midday we found the valley a 
little steamy, the Teesta running for the most part 
through a narrow gorge, with hill9 rising almost 2000 
feet very precipitously from its banks. 

The camping ground at Bongli was a mere 
clearing in the jungle with a few sun-proof huts. 
There was no sickness, sore feet, or falling out 
amongst the men, and the quinine kept off the fever. 
At this camp the officers were most hospitably 
entertained by a tea-planting gentleman of the name 
of Mr. Allies, who very kindly had a most lavish 
breakfast ready for us on oui' amval in camp. 
Needlass to say Ms kind forethought was most 
welcome, and ample justice was done to the good fare 
provided. 

We had more rain at night, but the men were this 
time prepared for it, and managed to effectually 
shelter themselves by waterproof sheets. Large fires 
were kept burning round the camp all night to keep 
off malaria, as this was a feverish-looking place. 

March 11th. — To Kalimpong, a distance of about 
fourteen miles. We found this a very severe march, 
as being our first day at hill climbing A few weeks 
later we should have thought nothing of it The first 
six miles lay alongside the Teesta, which was then 
crossed by a narrow su,spension bridge, where the 
cart road ceases. The suspension bridge is 710 feet 
above the level of the sea, and in the next seven miles 
we had a rise of over 3200 feet to Kalimpong, which 
is 3930 feet above sea level. However, the climb did 
us a lot of good, in getting some of the yellow fat oft^ 
and although the last half of the road was bad and the 
sun was hot, everything was safely in camp by noon. 
Kalimpong is a place of some importance in British 
Sikkim, and there is a large weekly market there on 
Sundays, and also a missionary establishment. We 
found the Imzaar in full swing on our arrival, and 
Tommy w^as able to provide himself with excellent 
fresh eggs, milk, and butter sjalore. In the evening 



10 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

we had a sing-song round a huge bamboo fire to pass 
the time. The large bamboos round here, when 
burnt, make the most alarming reports, by the air 
between the joints getting heated and exploding 
loudly. The sing-song was a success, and such songs 
843 "The Wanderer," "Bald-headed Swell," " Money," 
and the " Unofficial Inspection " were most popularly 
received; songs which I fancy are not often sung 
now-a-days, having gone out of fashion. As usual 
about 10.30 p.m., it came on to rain heavily, and the 
huts were dreadfully leaky, and being placed on a 
slope, caused the rain to wash through them. The 
Missionary Padre sheltered a good many men in his 
place close by, and provided them with tea and 
cheroots, his hospitality being much appreciated by 
the Derbys. 

From Kalimpong to Padong, where the force 
assembled, is fourteen miles along a good road. We 
did not leave Kalimpong till ten a.m., as we were now 
fairly in the mountains, with a cool temperate climate, 
and could therefore march all day; and as the 
morning was bright and sunny, the men's bedding was 
first dried before we set out. The road for the first 
nine miles was a gradual ascent to the top of a ridge 
6100 feet high, and then an easy descent to Padong 
4700 feet mgh. At Padong we found GenersS 
Graham and his staff, together with four guns of the 
Mountain Battery No. 9-1 D, RA., and the left 
wing of the 32nd Pioneers, a regiment composed of 
Muzbee Sikhs, fine hardy men, accustomed to wield 
the pick and shovel. 

We here received our tents, which we were glad 
to get after the leaky huts with which we had to put 
up for the last few nights, for it seemed to rain every 
night pretty regularly. 

We had a good camping ground, and found Padong 
a pleasant enough place, remaining there till the 
morning of the 16th March, when the forward move- 
ment commenced. 



PADONQ. 



11 



From PadoBg, in the early moiiiing, the fort wall 
of Lingtu, which was to be our objective, and was the 
cause of the present trouble, was clearly visible with 
a gooil telescope. It looked mighty high, bleak, and 
cold, being covered with snow, 

Lingtu appeared to be the end of a ridge some 
13,000 feet high, with steep and precipitous sides, 
formed of ma-guses of rock and clothed in snow. The 
forest seemed to end some 2000 feet below it. The 
line of wall the Thibetans had built seemed to be a 
very long one, crowning the height, with a bastion or 
tower at each end, a gate and fort in the middle, both 
flanks of the wall ending in precipitous ground, and, 
at this distance, looked an uncommonly strong spot, 
which would require a lot of taking if resolutely 
defended. There were many long poles on the wall, 
from which fluttered multi-coloured pieces of silk 
and cotton printed with Bhuddist prayers. It being 
one of the beliefs of this religion that prayers can be 
said by proxy, many and ingenious are the contriv- 
ances they have of saying them; by windmills, 
water -millsj pi*ayer - wheels turned by the hand, 
prayera fluttering in the wind, and several other 
devices too numerous to mention. You merely have 
to write the mystic sentence — *' Om mani padmi hun/' 
which means " Oh, the jewel in the lotus/' and is the 
universal Bhuddist prayer, on something, and arrange 
to have it revolved in some machine or other, and a 
prayer is placed to your credit in the world to 
come by each revolution. No respectable Bhuddist 
calculates on doing much good under a few hundred 
thousand prayers daily ; for, you see, 10,000 prayers 
can be quickly said by writing '' Om mani padmi 
hun " on a piece of paper one hundred times and 
spinning it rotmd in a prayer box one hundred times ! 
The lamas or Bhuddist priests, I believe, do a con- 
siderable trade amongst the laity in the prayer line, 
and do it cheap too I 

On the 15th March the troops at Padong were 



12 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

told off into two columns; the first, known as the 
Lingtu column, was to consist of two guns of the 
Mountain Battery, under Major Keith, R.A. ; one 
company of the Derbyshire Regiment under Captain 
Wylly, and 300 of the 32nd Pioneers under Sir B. 
Bromhead There were also another 300 of the 32nd 
Pioneers in advance at a place called Bongli Chu, 
some sixteen miles along the Lingtu road, who had 
been sent on to improve the road and camps. The 
Lingtu column was commanded by General Graham 
in person, and he had his staff and the political 
officers with him. This column was to move on to 
Lingtu direct, drive out the Thibetans, and effect its 
occupation. 

The second column was known as the Intchi 
column, and was commanded by Colonel Mitchell, of 
the 13th Native Infantry, an officer who had been all 
over this country before and knew a considerable 
deal about it and its people. The Intchi column 
consisted of two guns mountain artillery under 
Lieutenant Phillips, one company Derbyshire Regi- 
ment under Captain Gosset, and 300 of the 13th 
Native Infantry, and was to be held in readiness to 
move on Intchi, or elsewhere as ordered. The other 
half of the 13th Native Infantry were to remain at 
Padong as a reserve and guard over stores, &c. 

All hands were eager for the morrow, when we 
were to leave British territory, and soon come in 
contact with the enemy. Many were the rumours 
of the force in front of us, and from the native 
reports we were led to expect considerable resistance, 
so the prospect of a fight seemed hopeful. The 
Thibetans were also said to be adepts at pitfalls, 
surprises, and what were commonly called by the 
men booby traps ; and we heard that masses of stone 
were prepared to be let down on our luckless heads 
on every possible occasion, together with carefully- 

Ereparea and covered pitfalls filled with pointed 
amboos. However, these trifles did not trouble us 



LAST NIGHT IN BRITISH TERRITORY. 13 

at all, our only regret being that both companies of 
the Derbys were not with the lingtu column, which 
would probably see most of ithe fighting, if any, 
about which some people seemed to be sceptical. 



CHAPTER HL 

Advance on Ling^ — ^Action of Jeluksoo— Assault and Capture 
of Lingtu. 

Our first march into the enemy's country com- 
menced on the 16th of March, when we had a short 
march of about eight miles to Rhenok ridge, on the 
opposite side of the valley to Padong. The first part 
of the road for about three miles consisted of a steep 
descent to the river Rushett, 2000 feet above sea 
level, which forms the boimdary between British and 
Independent Sikkim. The road had been made as far 
as the river, being from thence onward a mere track 
through the jungle, and very steep and difficult for 
the transport in places. The order of the march 
was : — G Company of the Derbys leading as an 
advance guard, followed by the two moimte^in guns 
with the remainder of the troops and transport 
bringing up the rear. Having, however, 300 of the 
Pioneers some distance ahead of us, any great pre- 
cautions were unnecessary. There was a rickety 
bridge over the Bushett by which the infantry could 
cross, the artillery and transport having to ford it a 
short way up. These hill rivers are lovely streams at 
this season, with beautiful pools of the clearest water, 
full of fiish, and babbling between huge boulders, and 
surrounded by the most enchanting exotic vegetation. 
They are, however, liable to very sudden rises on any 
rain falling, and soon become impassable torrents, very 
dangerous to travellers. 

We had a steepish climb to the top of Rhenok 
ridge, 5000 feet above sea level, the difference in the 
road in our territory and in native Sikkim being most 
marked. We arrived in good time at our camping 



RHENOK RIDGE. 



15 



ground OB the ridge, and the transport being well up, 
we soon had the tente pitched. It is impossible to 
dresa tents in most places in the hills, and one 
generally has to pitch them wherever you can find 
a small flat piece of ground big enough to hold them, 
and as often as not having to cttt away the hill side 
to make a place for them. The village of Rhenok, 
from which the ridge is named, is about two miles 
below the camp, and at it the road branches off to 
Intchi and Tumlong, the capital of Sikkim. In the 
afternoon the Phodong Lama, one of the leading men 
of the popular party in Sikkim, and friendly to ua, 
came in vtith a motley retinue of attendants armed 
with bows and arrows and short swoi-ds, to interview 
the General. He had a long consultation with him, 
and with Mr. Paul, Deputy-Commissioner of Darjeel- 
ing, and Political Officer with the Expeditionary 
Force. The purport of the interview seemed to be, 
that the Thibetans were in far greater strength than 
was generally supposed, and tliat a large force waa 
awaiting ua at Lingtu, while another party, estimated 
at 700 men, was marching round our left upon Intchi 
to cut in on our flank and threaten our line of com- 
munication. 

On tliis the signallers of the Derbyshire Regiment 
were set to work, and the Intchi column we had left at 
Padong was ordered to move the next day to Rhenok 
Bazaar, which is the junction of the roads leading to 
Intchi and Lingtu. 

On the l7th March we continued our advance a 
short distance of six miles, down hill all the way, to a 
camp called Rongli Chu, on the banks of a river of 
that name which rises somewhere near Lingtu. We 
found 200 of the Pioneers here, and they had built a 
stockade of bamboos round the camp, and had also 
made a rough bridge over the river. 

This camp was only 2500 feet above sea level, and 
we found it somewhat warm and muggy, as it was 
very enclosed by precipitous hills, most densely clad 



16 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

with bamboo jungle. The Rongli river has an evil 
reputation for sudden floods, and much loss to traders, 
both of life and goods, is said to occur here. A party 
of the Pioneers was to be left here, to make a more 
substantial bridge than the present temporary one. 
All the mule drivers and native followers were much 
alarmed at this place owing to one of the former being 
found a short distance from camp hung by the neck 
to a clump of bamboos. It was tolerably certain, 
however, that he must have committed suicide, as 
money was foimd on him, though as fdo de Be \a 
uncommon amongst natives of his class his com- 
panions said it was done by the enemy, and were 
nervous accordingly. 

On the 18th March we advanced to the next camp, 
called lingtam, distance nine miles. We usualfy 
marched off about eight in the morning, to enable 
the men to get a goro meal before starting. From 
Bongli the road climbs up a steep hill till the crest is 
cros^ at 5700 feet, and then drops sharply down to 
the Lingtam stream, 1500 feet l^low. This march 
was a severe one, the road being very steep and 
tortuous, and in execrable repair. Two mules were 
killed by falling over the khud — fortimately not 
belonging to our transport, our mules having so far 
done very well. We were quite in the wilds here, the 
country round being almost totally uninhabited. A 
few clearings are made occasionally, by the natives 
cuttinff down the smaller trees and vegetation on the 
hill side, and after it is dried sufficiently they set fire 
to it, and then sow Indian com on the space thus 
cleared. No further cultivation is required, as owing 
to the richness of the soil a heavy crop soon springs 
up and is harvested, the operation being repeated 
elsewhere next year. 

Our camping groimd at Lingtam is in a hollow, 
the jungle having been cut down to clear a space for 
the tents. The camp was not a very safe one, being 
commanded at close quarters on three sides; and as we 



NEARING THE ENEMY. 17 

were now nearing Lingtu, and expected to come in 
contact with the enemy to-morrow or the next day, 
picquets were carefully placed roimd the camp day 
and night, to guard it against being rushed. Fortu- 
nately lor us, our foes are not provided with arms of 
precision, or they would make it warm for us in some 
of these hill camps. Some 300 of the Pioneers are 
still ahead of us a few miles, improving the road, but 
to-morrow we shall close up on to them. 

March 19th. — ^We were relieved in the morning at 
having had a peaceful night to get away from this 
cvl de sac of a camp. We heard that the Pioneers, 
who were at Keulakha, three or four miles ahead, had 
seen some Thibetans. It would have been quite 
possible for them to have taken us at a disadvantage 
at Lingtam camp, for although we had taken every 
precaution, it was a position that could not be made 
much of from a defensive point of view. 

The march to-day was to Phedomchen, about eight 
miles. On leaving Lingtam the first two miles is 
a steep ascent, and then a drop of 2000 feet to 
Keulakha, where the Pioneers had been encamped 
on the previous night, and whose rear guard we 
caught up as it was moving off. On the road side we 
passed an inscription on the rock in English, Hindus- 
tani, and Thibetan, stating that the present Secretary 
to the Bengal Government had trod that path on the 
8th of January, 1866. After leaving Keulakha, we 
had a steep ascent all the way to Phedomchen, which 
is 7200 feet high. We were delayed on the road by 
a tree, felled across the road by the Thibetans, the 
first visual evidence we had of them. The road 
to-day was very sticky and slippery with wet clay, 
through a forest of large evergreen oak trees, covered 
with moss and orchids, with here and there a magnolia 
tree, with its pure white flowers in full bloom. Some 
of the orchids too were also in flower, and were very 
beautiful. We foimd Phedomchen the best camping 
ground we had come to, being a compact and level 



18 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

piece of ground, with a spring close by, and which 
just held the force comfortably, for we now had all 
the Pioneers with us. 

The General and staff, with an escort of thirty 
Pioneers, moved forward up the Idngtu road in the 
afternoon, to reconnoitre. After proceeding about 
three miles, at a place named Jeluksoo they were 
suddenly fired into from a stockade commandmg the 
path and completely concealed in the jungle. It 
seemed pretty lucky nobody was hit, as fire was 
opened at close quarters. As it was late in the after- 
noon and the strength of the enemy was not known, 
while our force on the spot was weak, it was deemed 
advisable to retire to camp and attack the stockade 
the next morning with a larger force, when a further 
advance could be made on lingtu twelve miles up the 
hill. This, after a few shots being returned by our 
side, was done. 

Two picquets and several guards were posted 
round the camp. In the evening a good many wood- 
cock were noticed flying over the camp, though of 
course no shooting was aUowed ; but future visions of 
wood-cock on toast were duly registered in our minds 
when opportunity would permit. 

March 20th. — The night passed quietly, and after 
a good breakfast we parad^ at 7 a.m., leaving our 
camp standing. Dur small force, of G Company 
Derbyshire Regiment, 80 rifles, imder Captain 
Wylly, with Lieutenants Bowman and Iggulden, and 
100 Pioneers under Colonel Bromhead, Captain 
Lumsden, and Lieutenant Tytler, the whole being 
imder General Graham, proceeded to march up the 
path to turn the enemy out of their stockade. 

The Lingtu road, or path, as indeed all tracks in 
these mounSiins, only admit of men going in single 
file, and the Pioneers led off in that formation, 
followed by the Derbys. After proceeding with the 
utmost caution up the Lingtu road for about one and 
a-half hours, and covering about three miles, the 



IN TOUCH WITH THE ENEMY. 19 

stockade was again arrived at, and the peculiar jackal 
war cry of the Thibetans was heard, together with 
the discharge of their matchlocks, and the shooting 
of a stray arrow or two through the branches of the 
trees. 

The enemies' stockade was found to occupy the 
crest of a steep wooded hill, immediately to our front, 
roimd the left of which the road made a sharp turn, 
past the corner of it, over a steep bit of bamboo-clad 
khud. The road had been completely cut away for 
some fifty yards in front of this comer, and there 
were a couple of stone sangars enfilading it, which 
made any attempt to advance by the road impossible. 
The stockade was a stoutly made concern of tree 
trunks interlaced with one another, and abattis of 
fallen trees and jungle in front of it. Altogether the 
position was a very weU-chosen one for defence, the 
only mistake the enemy made being in not clearing a 
sufficient field of fire in front of it. 

On fire being opened at 8.30 a.m. every one closed 
up to the front as much as possible, and our long 
caterpillar formation was reduced as much as circum- 
stances permitted. The Pioneers under Colonel 
Bromhead dashed at the stockade in front, together 
with No. 1 section G Company Derbys under Captain 
WyUy, and the firing was soon general, our men 
struggling on up the hill with feed bayonets over 
slippery tree trunks and through bushes and bamboos, 
firmg away as they went, and eagerly pushing on to 
get k) dose quarters and use their bayonets. 

The Thibetans had several men in the trees above 
the stockade, and arrows were dropping about every- 
where, but harmlessly, the bow-and-arrow man being 
at a disadvantage m this enclosed country. After 
some faint resistance, the stockade in front was 
carried and the enemy from that part of the position 
retreated, leaving a few dead men behind them, 
Colour-Sergeant Collins, of Q Company, having 
bayoneted one or two, and Corporal McCullough, 



20 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

also of G Company, captured the only prisoner taken. 
The flying Thibetans were hotly pursued by Captain 
Wylly and No. 1 section, and some of the Pioneers, but 
our men were faster on their legs than the natives, 
and soon got some way ahead. 

In the meantime about thirty Pioneers, under 
Captain Lumsden, had advanced along the road to 
the left, and finding it cut away, were unable to get 
along it, the Thibetans sticking to their stone sangars 
and keeping up a heavy &e with their match- 
locks, and also sending showers of arrows. Captain 
Lumsden was shot tlm)ugh the arm in leading his 
men on, and one or two of the sepoys were hit by 
arrows. 

As the sepoys could not get along the road, 
the General, who was watching the fight, ordered 
Lieutenant Iggulden, with a section of G Company 
Derbyshire Regiment, to try and get above and behind 
the sangars, where the Thibetans were still firing. 

After a stiff dimb over mossy rocks, and through 
dense smoke which hung in the bamboos. Lieutenant 
Iggulden led his men to a position over the sangars, 
where he was fired at from a few yards by a Thibetan 
behind a tree, having a very narrow escape: he, 
however, rushed forward, shot his assailant in the 
back as he turned to flee, sending him headlong into 
the road below, and soon had his men firing from 
above and behind into the sangar on the road, at 
a few yards distance, upon which the Thibetans 
hurriedly fled, leaving several dead; a good many 
more plunged into the jungle below, badly woimded. 
The Thibetans at the sangar, finding our men behind 
them, fled precipitately straight down the hill-side, 
where we could not follow them, leaving their arms 
and weapons behind them at the sangar. These the 
Derbys collected, and after calling on the Pioneers to 
cease firing into the sangar, which they were stiU 
blazing at, a further advance along the road was 
made to Jeluksoo, where the two sections of G 



THE STOCKADE AT JELUK. 21 

Company joined hands, and were joined by the half 
company in reserve, imder Lieutenant Bowman. 

Jeluksoo was an open piece of ground forming a 
col, where the Thibetans had encamped; for we 
found two tents and a shanty, and a fair lot of 
provisions, cooking utensils, blankets, &c., here. Soon 
after arriving at this place. Captain Wylly and 
Corporal McCullough came back from the opposite 
direction, having followed the enemy some way 
alone, and getting separated from the remainder of 
the company in the thick jungle. 

The enemy had broken in every direction, leaving 
about half-a-dozen killed on the field. They had, 
however, managed to carry off into the jungle all 
their woimded. The dead found on the fiela were 
evidently pure Thibetans, of a fair complexion, and 
fine big men. After seeing that every one was 
present, having no casualties, and a rest of about 
twenty minutes, it still being only about midday, the 
Derbys, with the rest of the force, marched onwards 
up the hill towards lingtu. The road became very 
steep, with snow in the sheltered spots, and for at 
least a mile, was strewn with arms, blankets, and 
clothing, with pools of blood all along it, showing 
that a good many wounded must have been carried oft 
that way towards Lingtu. 

We were now getting to a considerable elevation, 
and were a good deal troubled with shortness of 
breath, and the exertion of climbing up a path, more 
resembling rough steps, with a rifle and ammunition, 
necessitated frequent halts to recover our wind. 

We had now left behind the oak trees, and 
ascended through rhododendron forest, many of the 
trees of which were a mass of colour in full bloom. 
After proceeding about three miles we reached a neck 
of land called Gamei, about 11,000 feet high, where a 
halt was made, as we had got in the clouds, and all 
view, to a further distance than twenty yards or so, 
was obscured. We waited some time for the mist to 



22 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

dear, which it did not, and as it was past 2 p.m., the 
General did not deem it advisable to attack Lingtu at 
once. The ground all round was covered with snow 
and it was very cold. 

The Pioneers were therefore ordered to remain at 
Gamei for the night and bivouac, while G Company 
Derbys bivouacked at the Thibetan camp below at 
Jeluksoo, where the two mountain guns had also 
arrived; but as yet there was no sign of our own 
baggage coming up. At about 4 p.m. it came on to 
sleet and drizzle, and as we were 9600 feet high, we 
began to feel the cold considerably, for we Imd no 
great coats with us and there was very little cover to 
be obtained. At about dusk a little of our baggage 
arrived and three or four tents were got up. Every- 
body was feeling dead tired, as we had been on our legs 
since six in the morning, with nothing to eat, except 
what we had brought with us, which was not much, as 
we had expected to return to camp by the evening. 

A search party was sent to look for the missing 
baggage at 9 p.m., and found the mules blocked on 
the road about a mile back unable to get on, six or 
seven of them having fallen over the khud witii their 
loads, so they had to return, and we had to bivouac as 
best we could for the night. Most of the men had to 
go without blankets or cover of any sort, and we all 
had a most miserable and cold night. Fires were 
made and we tried to sleep by them, but whilst one 
side got tolerably warm the other got bitterly cold, 
rendering sleep out of the question. 

March 21st. — The first streaks of dawn were 
welcomed by every one, with the prospects of getting 
the baggage in, and obtaining some food. As soon as 
it was light enough to see, lieutenant Iggulden went • 
with a fatigue party fully armed back to where the 
baggage was on the road, and found all the mules and 
kit huddled together at the sangar on the road where 
the fight had taken place. Two of our mules were 
dead down the khud, which was very steep at that 



THE ADVANCE ON LINGTU. 23 

place, and six more mules that had tumbled down* the 
hill side, were recovered at distances from 200 to 500 
feet down, seemingly not much the worse for their 
fall ; though how they survived goodness only knows. 
The temporary road here was very bad, and with 
difficulty passable, and our party had to carry the 
baggage some fifty yards over the worst part of it ; 
this, and recovering the mules from down the khud, 
occupied some time, and necessitated a good deal of 
hard labour. However, after herculean eflTorts, all 
the baggage arrived at Jeluksoo at eight a.m., and the 
Derbys had their breakfast, and got on their warm 
coats, as we had no intention of again experiencing 
the cold and discomforts of last night. 

At ten a.m., after having packed up everything, 
and fortified the inner man with a substantial 
breakfast, G Company moved off to Gamei; the two 
guns of the Mountain Battery having preceded us. 

As G Company had been promised the honour of 
leading the assault at lingtu, every one was as keen 
as mustard to get there as soon as possible. Arrived 
at Gamei, we found the Pioneers under Colonel 
Bromhead drawn up, with the two guns in position 
ready to open fire. As usual, however, up here clouds 
and heavy mist obscured everything to within a few 
yards distance, so the guns were unable to come into 
action. 

After waiting for a quarter of an hour, the weather 
showing no signs of improvement, the Derbys and the 
Pioneers received orders to advance on the fort. We 
therefore advanced very carefully, as the ground in 
front could not be seen, and from the news we had 
received we were led to expect that great masses of 
stone were ready to be let down on our heads. 

The road up from Gamei was a mere track 
through deep snow, some two feet of it covering 
the ground, and in many places where it had 
drifted, it was several feet in depth. After a long 
and fatiguing climb (as one very soon gets blown 



24 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

at lihis elevation) we reached a spot which wo 
calculated must be pretty near the wall of the fort, 
and G Company got orders to move to the left up a 
spur of the hill, whilst the Pioneers kept to the track. 
We now had to plod through the snow up to our 
knees, and had a hard struggle to get through. After 
we had had about twenty minutes of tMs sort of 
work, the walls of the fort towered immediately in 
front of us about 300 yards off, and at the same time 
we heard the bugles of the Pioneers sounding the 
charge. As the gate was open we darted through it 
with a cheer immediately on the heels of the Pioneers, 
who had the best of us and got in first, coming as 
they did by the road ; but we found the fort deserted 
and the Thibetans in full flight across the Jelapla pass 
twelve miles off, leaving little or nothing behind them. 

After assuring ourselves no enemy was near, we 
formed up, arms were piled, and a guard being 
placed, the men were allowed to fall out to look about 
them and hunt for loot. Of course one of our first 
acts was to plant G Company's flag in a commanding 
position on the fort walls together with the Union 
Jack, and to haul down the prayer rags and poles of 
the Thibetans. We found the fortification at lingtu 
to consist of a wall about 300 yards long, from 
eight to ten feet high, and five feet thick, built of 
large stones and rou^y loop-holed. It was protects 
on each flank by a round tower about twenty feet 
high, and loop-holed, and was built along the crest of 
the Lingtu peak. The left flank was secure owing to 
a precipice. The right flank was practicable, but with 
difficulty, as the hill side was very steep and covered 
with rough boulders. The road or path led up to a 
large gate, which was situated towards the left centre 
of the wall, and there was also a stone block house 
commanding the road some 400 feet below the wall. 

We did not think we should have had much 
difficulty in storming the place, as the wall was 
everywhere climbable, and the loop-holes were very 



NIGHT IN FORT LINGTXJ. 26 

badly placed, though it is doubtful if oUr mountain 
guns could have assisted us by doing any hann to so 
thick and massive a wall. 

As it was, it certainly was not nearly as strong a 
position as the stockade at Jeluksoo, which was an 
admirably chosen one for defence, their only mistake 
being in not having cleared the jungle in front 
sufficiently, and so obtaining a good field of fire. 

After all the trouble they had taken in building 
lingtu, it was a great surprise to us, and disappoint- 
ment too, that they had not made some sort oi stand 
there. 

We found lots of rocks placed over the pathway, 
near Lingtu, ready to be rolled on our heads as we 
came up, but none of them had been fired off; the 
rout of yesterday at Jeluksoo having been too much 
for the enemy's nerves. There was a good-sized 
square building, some eighty yards behind the wall 
on the reverse side of the hiU, made of stone and 
roofed with rough pine planks, forming a sort of 
serai. In this there was just room for ourselves and 
the Pioneers, and we made ourselves as comfortable 
as we could in it. It was very cold and uncomfort- 
able, and we were nearly suffocated by smoke from 
the fires, there being no chimneys ; but it was better 
than bivouacking in the open, as here we were 12,600 
feet high, and a W)ve snow level. 

Our baggage arrived very late, and a great deal 
of it missing, as over twenty mules had slipped into 
the snow dnfts and down the khud. However, we 
were better off than on the previous night, and got 
some food and were fairly warm for the night. We 
found nothing of value at Lingtu, the Thibetans 
having carried everything away, except forty or fifty 
loads of tobacco leaf, wool, copper sheeting, and iron 
pans. These articles, being unportable, were of no 
value to us, though, I believe, in Thibet their money 
value would have been pretty considerable. We had 
a guard put on the two gates of the building we were 



26 THE SIKKIM CAlklPAIGN. 

in, and a patrol of Native Infantry was sent out 
every hour to see that all was clear ; the rest of us 
turning in to get as much sleep as was possible under 
the circumstances. 

Thus ended the first phase of the Sikkim Expedi- 
tion, which had carried out its instructions to the 
letter, without loss of life on our side. We had 
commenced our march at sea level, and here we were 
12,600 feet; higher than the troops of any other 
nation had ever operated in. " What will be done 
next ? *' was the question every one wanted answered. 

The road between Lingtu and the Jelapla Pass, 
which is the boundary between Sikkim and Thibet, was 
several feet deep in snow, and yet, if any permanent 
good was to result from the expedition, a display of 
force must be made on the border, and a colunm must 
advance to the very frontier of Thibet. At present 
here we remained in the snows, at a loss what next to 
do. From information taken from prisoners and a few 
villagers who had remained at iSbigtu, it appeared 
that the garrison of Lingtu left as soon as they heard 
that their friends below had been beaten. They had 
imderstood that the troops moving against them were 
Darjeeling policemen, but having discovered their 
mistake, they thought discretion the better part of 
valour, and made off to their own territory across the 
Jelapla, fourteen miles off, which accounted for there 
being no garrison at Lingtu to resist us. 

The following despatch from Captain Wylly to 
the Officer Commanding the Derbyshire Regiment 
on this first phase of the operations speaks for itself : 

"/Vw» The Ofl&cer Commanding Detachment 2nd Derbyshire 
Kegiment. 

"To The Officer Commanding 2nd Derbyshire Eegiment^ 
Dum Dum. 

"Dated Lingtu, Sikkun, 10th April, 1888. 
"Sir, 

"In forwarding sheets of the detachment diary up 
to date, I have judged it expedient to furnish you at the same 



REPORTS. 27 

time with a report of the events of the 20th and 2l8t March, 
similar to that furnished by order to the Officer Commanding 
the Expeditionary Force. 

"20th March. On the morning of 20th ultimo the company 
under my immediate command paraded at 7 a.m., strength 
80 of all ranks, and moved in support of a party of the 32nd 
Pioneers, to help in dislodging tne enemy, said to be holding 
in force a strons stockade at Jeluksoo, some four miles distant 
on the road to lingtu. After proceeding for an hour and a 
half up a very steep road, we heard firing in our immediate 
front, and were ordered to lialt beneath a high bank, below 
which the road made a sharp turn to the left, and upon which 
we afterwM:>ds learnt the stockade was placed. Slugs and 
arrows came close over our heads, and the enemy appearing to 
stand firmer than was expected, a section of my company was 
ordered up, and climbed mto the stockade as the enemy, pur- 
sued by the Pioneers, left it by the rear. Part of the section 
pursued, and the remainder, wheeling sharply to the left, joined 
another section under Lieutenant Iggulden, which had moimted 
the hill above the road, and these charged down with the 
bayonet upon a body of men still holding the sangar dominating 
the road. The enemy now fled at all points, and the column 
being re-formed, advanced to Garnei, a spur or ridge imme- 
diately below the fort at Lingtu. The 32na Pioneers remained 
here, while the detachment returned to Jeluksoo, and here 
passed the night, many tents being deficient, and a large 
number of men having no coats and no blankets, owing to 
the bagcage not getting past the point where the road had been 
cut by the enemy at the sangar. As the men were all in khaki, 
had not tasted food since daybreak, and the elevation of 
Jeluksoo is some 9000 feet, it will be understood that the men 
suffered some hardship, which was, however, borne without 
complaint. 

" 21st March. On the morning following, the detachment, 
strength ninety of all ranks, marched off at 9.30 a.m., and 
procemed to Garnei. Leaving here at 11.30 in dense mist, we 
advanced with all caution up a very steep path in the snow, 
preceded by a very small party of the Pioneers to clear any 
obstructions away. Having advanced in this way for nearly 
an hour, we were ordered to turn off to the left up a very steep 
trackless slope, and in snow often up to the waist. The 
company advanced in sections led by Lieutenant Bowman, and 
we presently heard the Thibetans' war cry, and the Pioneer 
bugles sounding the charge, but we could still see nothing 
owmg to the dense mist. Our leading section now pushed on 
with such expedition tliat it entered the now empty fort close 
upon the heels of the Pioneer advanced party, who had 
throughout kept the road. 



28 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

*' I have brought to the notice of the Officer Commanding 
the Sikkim Ej^editionaiT Force the services of Colour- 
Sergeant Collins and of Lance-Sei^eant McCullough. The 
former has rendered me the most valuable service throughout, 
and has by his example and bearing done much to keep the 
men in good fettle and contented. He also rendered Lieutenant 
Iggulden much service in the sangar on the 20th ultimo. 

<< Lance-Ser^eant McCullough is always first whenever there 
is work or fatigue to be done. He had been on advanced 
picquet the whole night prior to the 20th, he was the first of 
our party into the stockade, joined in the pursuit and took the 
onl^ prisoner taken at Jeluksoo. It will, I am sure, be to you, 
as it is to me, a matter of the utmost gratification that since 
the commencement of the operations, Greneral Graham has 
been loud in praise of the appearance and conduct of the men 
composing the detadiment, and never fails to express his con- 
fidence in them, and his appreciation of the work they have 
done. 

" I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant, 
"(Sd.) Harold Wtllt, Captain. 
** Commanding Detachment Derbyshire Regiment.'' 

During this time the Intehi column had been 
having an unexciting time, camped at Rhenok. The 
rumours of a force of Thibetems approaching from 
that direction were ill-founded, and although the 
country towards Intehi and Tumlong was reconnoitred 
no trace of an enemy was found, so that they passed 
an uneventful time making roads, building bamboo 
huts and furniture, and anxiously awaiting the news 
from lingtu; H Company under Captain Gosset 
being much chagrined at not being up at the front 
with the Lingtu column. 

We were much gratified at receiving the con- 
gratulations of the Commander-in-Chief on the 
success of the operations so far. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Life at Lingta — ^Move to Gnatong — Bnild a defensive post — 
H Company arrives — Forest clearing and daily routine — 
Beconnaissance — Signs of activity amongst the Thibetans. 



Our first night at Idngtu cannot be said to have been 
a very comfortable one, what with smoky attempts to 
keep ourselves warm and freezing draughts, so that 
we were glad tx) turn out at the first streak of dawn 
the next day, and find a clear morning, with a 
wonderful view all around us. Eternal snow 
surroimded lis on three sides, with ranges of lofty, 
rugged, snow-capped mountains stretching in all 
directions except the south. Conspicuous amongst 
these masses of snow, and looking comparatively close, 
towered the glorious peak of Kinchinjunga, over 
28,000 feet high, with its 20,000 feet of ^ttering 
glaciers and dazzling snow bathed in the bright 
morning sun. It was a wonderful scene, and held 
one spell-bound for some minutes admiring the 
vastness and beauty of the perfectly still, white 
landscape. We had not much time, however, for 
admiring scenery, as at about 8 a.m. the clouds rise 
from the dank valleys beneath and soon obscure the 
view, besides which the bitter, keen wind blowing 
straight from the snows soon drives us to action. 
The wag of the Company remarked on turning out 
this morning, and beholding a view he could never 
even have dreamed of, " Ah ! looks pretty, don't it ? — 
as if them Pioneers had been whitewashing ! " — which 
is a way of admiring the snows which would not 
have occurred to every one. 

As our stay at this place may be of some duration, 
the first thing to be done was to clean out the 



30 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

buUding we should have to Kve in, which was choked 
up with twelve months' or more accumulated Thibetan 
filth, and let me here say that the Thibetan will yield 
the palm for personal dirtiness and filthiness to no 
human being in the wide world. 

A fatigue party with mules was also despatched to 
seaorch the snow-drifts for the kit which tumoled down 
the khud yesterday. Another fatigue party is busy 
clearing away the snow, which is very deep all round, 
and making paths and communications about. So 
that during the morning we are busily employed 
and hard at work. In the afternoon all hands are 
employed pulling down the wall along the crest of the 
hill. Lieutenant Iggulden also took a few men for a 
short reconnaissance towards the Jelapla Pass, but did 
not proceed more than a couple of miles over heavy 
snow, finding a few bales of tobacco, scrap iron, and 
copper sheeting by the way, which the Thibetans had 
been unable to carry off. 

As the snow was still far too deep to attempt an 
advance to the Jelapla Pass, which is between 14,000 
and 15,000 feet high and distant about twelve miles, 
there appeared to be nothing else to do but remain 
where we were until the true state of mind of the 
Thibetans could be ascertained, and permanent promise 
to behave themselves obtained from them. For the 
present they had retired into their own country 
beyond the Jelapla Pass, from whence during the 
next six weeks various rumours of their doings or 
intentions of the vaguest description from time to 
time arrived. 

The detachment Derbyshire Eegiment had, there- 
fore, the prospect of a summer in the hills before 
them, and as it does not often fall to the lot of 
Thomas Atkins to pass his time at an elevation of 
over 12,000 feet above sea level, I will describe the 
daily life we led after taking Lingtu, until further 
advances by the Thibetans led to more stirring 
operations. 



LIFE AT LINGTU. 31 

March 23rd. — We spend the time in making our 
quarters more habitable. Some of the Pioneers go 
out under canvas, which gives us more room, the 
guns move back to Phedomchen, this place being too 
trying for the mules, and there being a difficulty in 
obtaining fodder for them, as there are no bamboos at 
this height. Bamboo leaves are given to all mules 
and ponies up here instead of grass, and it makes 
most excellent fodder, every bit as good as grass, 
lingtu is a great place for snowstorms at this time of 
the year, and for the next week or ten days they are 
of daily occurrence. Two of our mules died of cold 
the second night we were at Lingtu, so the remainder 
were sent down to Jeluksoo, which is 3500 feet lower 
down and about five miles by road. 

On a clear day we can see Darjeeling clearlv, as 
well as the Jelapla Pass. Captain Foulerton, or the 
100th Regiment, arrives as signalling officer, and we 
are able to "helio" messages in to our friends at 
Darjeeling when the clouds permit. 

All our men were now served out with a pair of 
blue goggles apiece, as a precaution against snow 
blindness. This is a very necessary precaution too, 
as the reflection of the sun's rays off the snow is most 
dazzling, and produces^snow blindness in a very short 
time. The natives of Thibet suffer a good deal from 
snow blindness, and when not able to get coloured 
glass goggles make spectacles out of fine hair netting, 
and if not able to get either of these they paint the 
eye-lids and cheeks round the eyes black, which they 
say prevents snow, blindness to a great extent. Snow 
blmaness is a very painful thing, and there is nothing 
that makes one's face so raw and makes the skin peel 
off more than marching over snow in a bright sun ; 
this, combined with a cutting cold wind, maSe us all 
look in a short time as if we had had our faces boiled, 
and many were the times the skin of our faces and 
noses peeled during the next few months. As the 
spring was advancing, and on the snow clearing off 



32 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

from lingtu we should be without water on this peak, 
the General intended to move about five miles on to a 
place called Gnatong, which was situated on a ridge in 
an open valley with running streams of water onlx)th 
sides, and was a more sheltered spot than Lingtu and 
about 500 feet lower. 

On the 26th March the Political Officer, Mr. Paul, 
with an escort of twenty-five Derbys under Lieutenant 
Iggulden, visited Gnatong, but found the road still 
very difficult, and had to march over deep snow all 
the way. As we should still have to wait some days 
before we could entrench ourselves at Gnatong, 
General Graham sent all the troops down to Phedom- 
chen, with the exception of G Company Derby- 
shire Regiment, with fifty Pioneers under Lieutenant 
Tytler, who remained at Lingtu. The remainder of 
the Pioneers were at this time busily engaged in 
improving the road up to Lingtu, which sadly stood 
in need oi it. 

On March 30th Lingtu was visited in the evening 
by a very violent thunderstorm, accompanied by most 
terrific thunder, lightning, and hail, some of the latter 
being two to three inches in diameter. The sentries 
had a bad time of it, and three of the sepoys of the 
32nd Pioneers were struck by lightning and were 
frightfully burnt, looking as if they had a red hot 
iron passed down their backs and sides. It is a 
wonder they were not killed outright. 

The whole of the Lingtu fort had now been 
demolished, and nothing now remained of the boasted 
Thibetan stronghold oif Lingtu- peak but a pole 
proudly flying the Union Jack of Old England. 

Supplies had been coming in pretty regularly, and 
an enterprising native had come in with half a dozen 
mule loads of coffee shop stores for Tommy, so we had 
nothing to complain of m the way of grub. 

The death roll on the enemy's side at Jeluksoo 
turned out to be far heavier than was at first supposed. 
Only about half a dozen were found on the field after 



BECONKAISSANCES. 33 

the stockade and sangars at Jeluksoo had been taken, 
but it was known that many had fled badly wounded 
into the adjacent dense jungle. A horrible jungle it 
was too, where a wounded man might have lain for 
weeks and died within a few yards of the road, being 
slowly devoured by leeches, which simply swarm up 
to a certain elevation in Sikkinf Every day bodies 
are being found in the khud round about Jeluksoo, 
and the death roll is mounting up, and nmiour has it 
that the Gyakpen, or command!er of Jeluksoo, and 
about forty of his men are still unaccoimted for. 
Captain Lumsden and the four sepoys who were 
wounded on our side are all doing weU. 

April 3rd. The snow line is gradually descending, 
as although we have snow storms at night, it melts in 
the day, and wild flowers, and a pretty mauve 
primula, are beginning to show themselves in the 
more sunny spots. 

Captain Wylly and thirty of our men with the 
General reconnoitred on 3rd April as far as the 
Tukola Pass, which is some two miles beyond 
Gnatong, and 13,500 feet high, and from which a 
good view of the Jelapla is obtained. T^ey saw 
several Thibetans on the Jelapla Pass through ^eir 

glasses, so that it is evidently occupied. We also 
ear rumours of the gathering of a large force of 
Thibetans in the Chumbi Valley, who send messages 
that they are going to sweep us down to Calctffta, 
but, as Tommy Atkins remarks, " We have come a 
long way to Sikkim (seek^'em), but have not foimd 
'em yet," and we fear we shall not if Government 
won't allow us to enter Thibet. However, as the 
rumours of a Thibetan force being on the other side 
of the border are pretty well authenticated, 200 of the 
Pioneers are moved up and posted at a place called 
Shalambi, half-way to Gnatong, to make the road, 
preparatory to our all moving to the latter place as 
soon as the snow permits. 

We manage to get a few moonal and blood 

D 



34 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

pheasants, but game cannot be said to be plentiful at 
all. Tracks have also been seen of serow and musk 
deer. 

On 6th April General Graham and staff, with an 
escort of thirty rifles of the Derbys, under Lieutenant 
Bowman, go to Gnatong to mark out a site for an 
entrenched encampment. The road between lingtu 
and Gnatong has been considerably improved and 
cleared of snow, so for the next few days we march 
backwards and forwards, spending some six hours a 
day in completing a stone and turf wall round the 
site marked out for the camp. 

The camp at Gnatong is situated on a sloping 
spur between two valleys, that on the north-west side 
being the main one, and from the ridge of the camp 
to the bottom of the valley the ground has a steep 
descent. The valley on the east side is wider and not 
much below the camp, and has a good deal of open 
ground about it. Above the camp, on the north side, 
is a wooded hill, christened "Woodcock Hill." The 
hills all round are fairly wooded with a species of tall 
fir tree, while the higher and more exposed portions 
are covered with a dwarf rhododendron of several 
species, which forms an impenetrable thicket in 
plad^. 

The camp was perhaps the best that could be 
chosen under the circumstances, and was a less exposed 
and' more genial and sheltered place than Lingtu, but 
as a defensive position it had many weak points. It 
was commanded on three sides by rifle-fire to within 
a few hundred yards, and*from the formation of the 
groimd, our lines of communication were liable to be 
cut off. However, the Thibetans, fortimately for us, 
were not well armed and had no great notions of 
strategy, so that the risks of a reverse were minimised. 
The one drawback to Gnatong, at this time, was the 
scarcity of forage for the mules, which had to be 
brought up from a distance of two marches. 

On April 12th we packed up our kit and conveyed 



CAMP DUTIES AND FATIGUES. 35 

all OUT belongings from Lingtu to Gnatong, which 
was now ready for occupation. The two guns had 
also arrived, so we were a compact little force. A stone 
and turf wall had been built round the camp, protected 
by a strong abattis of rhododendron, made on the 
most approved style, and quite calculated to stop any 
sudden rush of Thibetans should they attempt such a 
thing. 

For the next week the time was busily passed in 
reconnoitring, cutting down trees round the camp, so 
as to obtain a clear field of fire, and in improving 
our defences generally. We were, however, much 
hampered by snow, which fell most persistently every 
night for about two or three hours, covering the ground 
to a foot or eighteen inches. This had to be cleared 
out of camp the next morning, and as the snow melted 
in the day time, we lived in a continual state of slush, 
dampness, and discomfort. Many ridge poles of our 
tents were broken by the weight of the snow, which 
we found by experience could only be prevented by 
sending round a fatigue party every half hour whilst 
the snowstorms lasted, to beat the snow off the tents. 
These snowstorms were always accompanied by the 
most terrific crashes of thunder and blinding lightning, 
and used to regularly come on at the same time every 
night, at about nine p.m., and last for a couple of 
hours. 

We had daily rumours at this time of an intended 
attack by the Thibetans, who had been observing our 
movements, some of them having been seen every day 
by our reconnoitring parties. 

Of course, all this time, no military precautions to 
guard against surprise were neglected, and recon- 
noitring parties were out by day and picquets posted 
by night. These duties, owing to the climate and 
snow, were by no means light, and to tramp roimd a 
circle of picquets twice a night up and down steep 
hills, with snow at times up to one's knees, was trying 
work. 



86 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

Every one, however, was wonderfully fit, and the 
spirit and cheerfulness of the men, through all these 
hardships, left nothing to be desired. I think we all 
worked so hard that we had not much time to think, 
though later in the year, as time went on, we chafed 
a litue at the long months of inaction. 

On April 18th an attempt was made to reconnoitre 
in force as far as the Jelapla Pass, and G Company 
Derbys, and fifty Pioneers and two guns were the 
force told off for the work. However, on reaching the 
Tukola, the pass above Gnatong, and some two miles 
from it, it became so dense and misty that, after 
waiting some time for the clouds to roll by, it was 
decide to return to camp and try again the next day. 
Accordingly, on the 19th April a start was made at 
nine a.m., and after one and a-half hours' climb the 
Tukola Pass was reached. From there we made a 
slight descent along the south side of the ridge, and 
ascended again to the Nimla Pass, which is about the 
same height as the Tukola. From the Nimla the 
road descends about 1500 feet to Kupup, which is at 
the mouth of the gorge leading to the Jelapla Pass, 
and some three miles from the top of the pass. There 
is a ^e lake called Bidong Cho below the Nimla 
Pass at the bottom of the valley, almost a mile in 
length. 

On reaching the Nimla, Captain Wvlly and fifly 
men with the guns and Pioneers descended to Kupup. 
Lieutenant Temple and a signalling party were sent 
off to the right, and Lieutenant Igralden and thirty 
men made a detour round by the left, accompanied by 
the D.A.A.G. to the force. Captain Travers. 

Captain Wylly's party came on about twenty 
Thibetans at the mouth of the Jelap gorge, with 
whom they exchanged shots, the Thibetans retiring 
towards the pass. Some more Thibetans were 
observed 1000 yards up the pass. Lieutenant 
Iggulden's party meanwhile worked roimd, getting a 
fine view oi the Jelapla Pass, and descending opposite 



H COMPANY ORDERED UP. 37 

Kupup, joined hands with the main body and Captain 
Wylly. 

As it was getting on in the afternoon, we returned 
to Gnatong at about four i).m., but not before we had 
seen a large number of Thibetans, well over a 
hundred, appear on the top of the Jelap Pass, 
evidently turned out by the firing. We were much 
delighted to hear in the evening that H Company 
was being telegraphed for, and would, therefore, 
arrive in a few days, and the two companies of the 
Derbys would then be together again. 

The reconnaisance of to-day seems to prove that 
the expedition cannot end with the capture of Fort 
lingtu. In the orders of the Government of India 
issued for the expedition, it was distinctly laid down 
that, if necessary for the sake of effect, the force 
might proceed as far as the Jelap Pass, but was on no 
accoiuit to cross the frontier into the Chumbi Valley 
and beyond, unless it were attacked and it was 
necessary to pursue. From to-day's operations, 
however, it appears that we shall most certamly have 
to fight the Thibetans again in order to arrive at our 
frontier boundary, and in that case it is to be hoped 
the bugbear of China will be shelved, and we shall 
be allowed to pursue the Thibetans into the Forbidden 
Land. From present conjectures, there seems to be 
no doubt that the Thibetans hold the Jelapla Pass 
with a force at least numerically our equal, and how 
many more they have in the Chimibi Valley it is 
difficult to estimate with any certainty. Our Political 
Officer, Mr. Paul, assisted by a British-Sikkim official 
called the Tyndook, have spies across the frontier, 
but the news they occasionally bring is contradictory 
and mainly unreliable. The Government of India 
have, however, been communicated with, and in due 
time we shall see the outcome of their deliberations. 

On the 26th April, H Company, under Captain 
Gosset, with Lieutenant Heyman, arrived at Gnatong 
after a very severe march, the road being reported in 



38 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

a shocking state, and the mules falling with their loads 
every few hundred yards. They certainly had bad 
luck, as there was an unusually heavy fall of snow 
the night previous to their arrival, which made the 
roads almost impassable. The men received an 
additional issue oi warm clothing in the shape of a 
Balaclava cap and a pair of mitts per man, for which 
everv one was duly grateful. 

Up to the end of April we continued to have bad 
weather, and the camp is a slough of despond. We 
have made stone and log paths all over it, to enable 
us to keep our feet dry, but we long for a few dry 
days, free from snow, to enable us to get things ship 
shape again. We find wood cutting a great amuse- 
ment, and the Pioneers having got up a good supply 
of American axes, we are rapidly clearing the ground 
to a considerable distance from the fort. We Imve all 
along suffered from a dearth of tools, the regulation 
supply of miserable little shovels and picks we 
started with have long ago broken up, and were it 
not for the Pioneers, who have a good supply of tools, 
we should be unable to get much work done at all. 

We keep our spirits up by sing-songs around the 
camp fire, and an occasional gymkhana when the 
weather permits, but to show the rigour of the 
climate, we lost some twenty head of cattle in three 
days from cold, and the remainder all had to be sent 
back, as it was found impossible to keep them here at 
present owing to the nightly snowfaU. 

A good many of our men suffered from toothache 
owing to the cold touching up bad teeth. But the 
medical department being unprovided with forceps 
any relief is unobtainable. The men have been 
getting a daily ration of one and a half drams of 
rum, whilst the Sikhs of the Pioneers get a dole of 
opium instead, which they say goes a long way 
towards keeping them fit and free from fever and 
ague. 



CHAPTER V. 



More waiting— Attack in force by Thibetans — Action of Gnatong 
— ^Defeat and rout of Thibetan forces — Fiurther inaction — 
Profusion of wild flowers — Life in the monsoon — ^Reinforce- 
ments ordered up. 



We had strong hopes that at the beginning of May 
we should be allowed to " go for " the Thibetans, and 
have no more nonsense about the matter, as the 
Lamas refused to come to terms, and here we were, 
within a few miles of one another, playing at the 
school boy game of " you hit me first, and then I'll 
give you l^ns." No such luck, however. The 
powers that were, ruled that we were on no account to 
unnecessarily attack the enemy who has invaded our 
country, and who continues to return impertinent 
messages to our overtures for an understanding. 
Morever, we are forbidden to aggravate them imduly 
by approaching within three miles of our own frontier 
line on the Jelapla Pass, so that the foe, who has for 
eighteen months occupied our country, and who has 
retired with all speed before our small column, may 
now flourish his antiquated weapons and defy us to 
his heart's content on the top of the Jelapla Pass, 
secure in the edict issued by the Government of India 
that he is not on any account to be thwarted. 

We have nothing to do, therefore, but possess our 
souls in patience and wait on the course of events, 
trusting for some climax to occur to put an end to 
the weary game of sitting still and doing nothing. 
Bumours came at the beginning of May that all 
British troops were to return to the plains, for which 
we were not sorry, as the prospect of further fighting 
seemed remote. These rumours never came to 



40 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

anything, however, so we stood fast and spent our 
time in improving the camp, in making it stronger 
by building a stockade of logs property loop-holed 
with two tiers of fire, by doubling the abattis and 
strengthening it with wire entan^ements, improved 
drainage, further wood clearings, &c., &c. All these 
useful works, with daily reconnaissance, helped to 
pass away the time. Snow was of less frequent 
occurrence, but rain took its place, which in some 
respects was worse. The line of perpetual snow had 
at this time, by the middle of May, descended to about 
14,000 feet, and everywhere on the sunny slopes was 
the most wonderful display of wild flowers, of an 
immense variety. We had about a dozen different 
sorts of rhododendrons and two kinds of azaleas 
which flowered profusely, besides very many small 
species of flowers, several of which were unknown 
to us. The purple flower of the deadly aconite* 
was also common, from a concoction of wmch plant 
the Thibetans poison their arrows. There was also 
a species of rhubarb which grew at a very high 
altitude out of the snow in the form of a pyramid, 
looking in the distance like a yellow flame. Of 
animals this part of the coimtry seems to be 
singularly deficient. There are a few common 
marmots and a tailless rat about, and traces are 
met of musk deer, serow, and leopards, but hardly 
one of these animals hdfe been seen. Lieutenant 
Temple woimded a wolf one day, and Lieutenant 
Iggulden once met a snow leopard going the roimd 
of the picquets on a snowy night, which had no doubt 
been attracted by the offal thrown away from the 
camp. 

About midnight on the 3rd of May we had an 
alarm, and thought at first that the Thibetans were 
on us, but it turned out to be only the tent of 
Lieutenant Tytler, of the Pioneers, which had caught 
fire and flared up in great style. Our men now got a 
dram of lime juice per diem to keep off" scurvy, as 



SUPPLIES. 41 

vegetables are scarce in these parts. They are 
wonderfully fit, and putting on flesh at an alarming 
rate, and, with their beards, would hardly have been 
recognisable by their comrades at Dum Dum. 

On May 16th Lieutenant Heyman went out 
reconnoitring on the Nimla Pass, which is as far 
as we are allowed to go at present, and saw a 
considerable number of Thibetans at Kupup at the 
mouth of the Jelapla Pass. They fired some signal 
shots on seeing Heyman's party, when some more 
Thibetans turned out up the Pass. 

We are fairly well off for supplies at Gnatong, and 
Captain Mansfield, our chief commissariat officer, has 
excellent transport arrangements. We also get good 
supplies of fresh butter and effgs, for which we pay 
one rupee four annas a seer, and eight annas a dozen 
respectively. Our comrades down the line, however, 

fet these articles at less than half this price. When 
[ Company were at Rhenok, the men found plenty of 
edible ferns and edible fungus. The former make a 
most excellent vegetable when properly cooked, being 
not unlike asparagus. You must be careful, however, 
that you do not get hold of the wrong sort of fern or 
fimgus, or the results are rather deadly. Wild rasp- 
berries also abound at the lower elevations, and make 
capital jam. One of our sportsmen shot a doe musk 
deer about this time, the venison of which is very 
good eating. The male musk deer is very much 
sought after in these parts, for the sake of the 
musk pod it carries, and which is worth twenty 
rupees a pod, there being a large export of musk 
pods from Thibet to India. Some of the Sepoys also 
shot a small black bear, the only one which has been 
seen. 

May 18th to May 20th. — We have the usual 
plethora of rain and hail. We manage to keep 
ourselves fairly dry and warm, though it is by no 
means pleasant being confined to our tents when 
raining, and everything gets very damp. A consign- 



42 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

ment of new boots arrives for the Derbys, and not 
before they are wanted, as most of the present stock 
are completely worn out. Our warm jerseys, too, are 
a great comfort, and are capital things to work in. 
What we ought to have are corduroy breeches for the 
men, as we do a lot of nawying work up here, which 
khaki or cloth is hardly suited for. 

There are several small wooden huts on the hills 
towards Kupup, which are more open and down like, 
and are now covered with luxuriant grass, and 
evidently the pasture lands of large herds of sheep 
and cattle in more peaceful times, and it is possible 
that the Thibetans may be anxious to keep these fine 
pastures in their possession more than anything else. 
At any rate, it is the only land here worth having, 
apparently. 

On the 21st of May the Lieutenant-Governor of 
Bengal, Sir Steuart Bayley, arrived at about noon on 
a visit to Gnatong. A guard of honour of H Com- 
pany Derbyshire Regiment, under Captain Gosset, 
was provided for him. He was much struck by the 
fine appearance of our men, and avowed they must be 
picked men, which they were not, though it must be 
said they looked a fine and large lot, their beards 
giving them a much older appearance than if they 
had been shaved. In the afternoon the Lieutenant- 
Governor had a fair sample of Gnatong weather, as it 
hailed hard for about four hours. We went to bed 
early as usual, having orders to provide an escort of 
fifty rifles to accompany the Lieutenant-Governor, 
who wished to go to the Nimla Pass early in the 
morning. Little we dreamed of what was going to 
happen. 

May 22nd. — We were all astir pretty early, as we 
had expected to have a day out as escort to the 
Lieutenant-Governor, and reveille had hardly soimded 
at the first streak of dawn when Captain Travers, the 
D.A.A.G., came hurrying down to our part of the 
camp, which was the lower part of it, and told us ta 



ATTACK ON THE CAMP. 43 

turn out as sharp as possible and man the walls, as 
the Thibetans were advancing in force to attack us. 

The news seemed to be tcS good to be true, and at 
first we could hardly believe it, as little or nothing of 
the enemy had been seen for the past few days, and 
we thought that it only was a little show got up for 
the benefit of the Lieutenant-Governor. Nevertheless, 
we were smart enough in getting to our posts, and 
the walls were manned and every one in his place and 
in the keenest expectation in about three minutes. 
The north-east and south faces of the camp were in 
charge of the Derbys, and were manned by half G 
Company, with daptain Wylly and Lieutenant 
Bowman ; and H Company with Captain Gosset and 
Lieutenants Temple and Heyman; whilst the other 
half of G Company of forty-five rifles was posted as a 
reserve in the centre of the camp near the staff tents 
under Lieutenant Iggulden ; the whole of the Derbys 
being, of course, imder Captain Wylly, the senior 
officer of the Regiment with the detachment. 

All doubts as tx) the genuineness of the attack were 
soon set at rest. Looking towards the Tukola Pass, 
which lay almost due north of the camp and about 
2400 yards in a direct line from it, though con- 
siderably further by road, large numbers of Tmbetans 
could be observed crossing it, and advancing towards 
the camp. They were evidently in considerable force, 
as many hundreds were to be seen at that early hour, 
it then being about half -past five in the morning. 
One of our two gims was dragged up to the ridge 
and got into position commanding the Tukola Pass, 
the other gun remaining at the main entrance on the 
south side of the camp, and commanding some open 
ground towards our line of retreat, where it was 
expected the main attack would finally develop. 

At 5.45 a.m. the gun on the ridge fired the first 
shot at the enemy advancing across the .Tukola Pass, 
and caused them hastily to take cover behind the 
projecting spurs on the hill side. This was the first 



44 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

use made of our artillery against the enemy in the 
campaign so far, as they were \mable, owing to the 
mist, to come into action at Jeluksoo or Lingtu. 

Shortly after this, at about six a.m., large numbers 
of the enemy were seen advancing through the trees 
and rhododendron bushes to our right front, having 
come down by a diflferent way to the right of the 
Tukola Pass. 

These Thibetans soon established themselves on 
the edge of the wood, on the north-east part of the 
camp opposite to where the Derbys were posted, at 
distances varying from six to three hundred yards, 
and commenced a heavy fire on the camp with their 
matchlocks. 

To this our men replied by volleys and indepen- 
dently whenever they caught sight of the enemy. 
There was also a picquet af the Derbys posted on 
the ridge to the north of the camp, which was ordered 
to retire at 6.15 a.m., as large numbers of Thibetans 
were coming down the ridge to where they were 
posted, rendering their detached position unsafe, as 
the woods at that place grew right up to and in rear 
of one side of their post, and they might have been 
rushed and cut off. 

The picquets of the Pioneers held their ground, 
being posted on better ground. One of them was 
about five hundred yards to the right of the south 
entrance of the camp, behind a little hill with the 
stream running round it, and open ground on all sides 
of it for some hundreds of yards. This picquet con- 
sisted of thirty men, and stood its ground pluckily, 
and was extremely useful in j)reventing the enemy 
working his way round the hills to our nght rear. 

The other picquet of the Pioneers was also of 
thirty rifles and held a position on the road to the 
Tukola at the bottom of the ravine to the left of the 
camp, commanding the bridge over the stream in 
the main valley of Gnatong and also a good deal of 
the road leading to the Tukola. This picquet also did 



THIBETAN TACTICS. 46 

splendid work in guarding our left rear, and also 
later on in the day, when reinforced, did much 
execution on the Thibetans, who attacked them with 
considerable vigour in some hundreds. 

The enemy continued to push their attack with 
vigour till seven a.m., their numbers being reinforced ; 
and about this time their fire became extremely 
galling and dangerous, nearly every tent in the camp 
having several bullets through it. Colour-Sergeant 
Denihan of H Company, who was lying sick in his 
tent, was struck by a spent bullet, which passed 
through his belt, giving him a severe blow, but 
luckily not penetrating his body. Many buckets, 
canteens, tin pots, &c., were riddled, and it seemed 
a mercy no one was wounded. All our men 
were, however, under cover manning the walls, 
which accounts for their immunity, as the walls 
were quite bullet proof; otherwise, no doubt we 
should have had many casualties. G and H Com- 
panies continued firing at the enemy whenever seen, 
accoimting for a good many, as was afterwards 
ascertain^. One enormous Thibetan, afterwards 
found to be six feet seven inches, had established 
himself behind a tree only a couple of hundred yards 
from the camp, and for a long time continued firing 
at us, seeming to bear a charmed life against the 
storm of bullete directed at him, being at last knocked 
over by one of H Company. The guns fired shrapnel 
at short range at intervals into the woods, but the 
Thibetans did not seem to mind much, as they had 
good cover behind the large fir trees, and only replied 
by a volley of their peculiar yells whenever a shell 
burst in their vicinity. 

It was a different matter, however, in the open, as 
at about seven a.m. some 300 or 400 Thibetans were 
observed collected together in a mass on the Tukola 
Pass, and the gun on the ridge sent three shrapnel 
shells at them in quick succession, hitting off the 
range exactly, as, looking through glasses, the shells 



46 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

burst just over them, and the way they took to their 
heels and ^ot under cover was a sight to see. It must 
have astonished them considerably having men killed 
by bullets at 2400 yards distance. 

As the enemy showed no signs of retiring, and 
their fire was increasing, at about seven a.m. orders 
were issued for lieutonant Iggulden and the reserve 
to sally forth, by the main camp gate and the Pioneer 
picquet on the right of the camp, and make a detour 
up the minor Gnatong valley, to drive out the 
Thibetans from the wc^ on the north-east part of 
the camp. 

As soon as the reserve imder Iggulden cleared the 
Pioneer picquet, it had tx) advance across some 600 
yards oi open ground before it could obtain some 
slight cover in mododendron bushes. The men were 
extended to four-paces interval, with a support of 
twenty men under Sergeant Windebank, and the open 
ground negotiated at a double, halting half-way to 
get in one volley and obtain a little breath, as it is no 
joke having to go out of a walk for any distance at 
over 12,000 feet. 

As soon as the enemy perceived Iggulden's advance 
they directed the whole of the fire from the woods on 
his party, and ceased firing at the camp, but they 
missed their opportunity in catching him in the open, 
and he soon had his men imder cover and within 400 
yards of the Thibetans. At this period Sergeant 
Seckington was shot dead alongside of Lieutenant 
Iggulden, whilst receiving an order, by a bullet in the 
centre of his forehead. A further advance to better 
cover was made by Iggulden's half of G Company, 
and a small spur in the bed of the stream reached 
within some 300 yards of the wood, from whence his 
fire soon began to tell and many Thibetans were shot 
down, and finding the place too hot for them they 
began to retire up the hill by twos and threes. On 
this a still further advance up the bed of the stream 
was made, the men moving with great dash, and a 



COUNTER-ATTACKS. 47 

hot fire kept up on the enemy, who were now in 
f uU flight. 

At nine a.m. a reinforcement of half H Company, 
with Captain Gosset and Lieutenant Temple, was sent 
put with fresh ammimition to help Iggulden in the 
pursuit, as the latter's ammunition had miled. 

H Company, after joining Iggulden's party, 
advanced straight up the bed of the valley, G 
Company extending and clearing the wood and the 
high ground above Gnatong camp. A good many 
stragglers were accounted for, and the two half 
companies eventually joined hands again at the top 
of the valley, 13,000 feet high, where we had expected 
to have had a good view of the line taken by the 
enemy in their retreat. Unfortimately the clouds 
descended and it became very misty, so that we could 
not tell for a little while which way the enemy had 
gone, though we knew they must have gone some- 
where towards the Tukola Pass on our left. All this 
while we could hear the Pioneers firing heavily on 
the Thibetans some 1500 yards away towards the 
Tukola. Iggulden's half of G Company made a short 
advance to the top of a spur a little farther on, and 
the mist lifting a bit, he saw some 800 yards off a 
large body of 600 or 600 Thibetans drawn up on an 
eminence to his right front, accompanied by three 
mounted men, and presenting a splendid mark, and 
was enabled to pour in upon them, to their utmost 
dismay and astonishment, three or four rapid volleys 
from the whole of his half company, doing tremendous 
execution. At the first volley some twenty or thirty 
men were seen to fall, and one of the horses also went 
down, whilst the masses of the enemy dispersed in all 
directions. Unfortunately, again the dense and heavy 
mist came on before further destruction could be dealt 
to the enemy. 

In vain we waited some time for the clouds to 
clear, but fate favoured the Thibetans and the dense 
clouds saved them from annihilation, as it remained 



48 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

very misty for the remainder -of the day. Further 
pursuit was in consequence given up, as the ground 
was unknown, and the hillsides very difficult with 
snow and tangled rhododendrons and juniper scrub. 
It was then about noon, and every one became very 
cold, as we were standing on snow, and at an elevation 
of 13,000 feet, besides which most of us had got wet 
to our middles advancing up the icy cold stream in 
the morning. Orders then came for us to retire back 
to camp and to coimt the dead and pick up the wounded 
on our way back. This we did, picking up several 
wounded, and reaching camp at about two p.m. pretty 
well tired out after some eight hours* fighting and 
climbing on an empty stomach. 

The 32nd Pioneers looked after the left front of 
the camp and the main Gnatong valley, and had also 
done extremely well. Their picquet at the bottom of 
the ravine had held in check some 400 of the enemy 
until 7 a.m., the time Lieutenant Iggulden's party had 
started out. At about that time they were reinforced 
by twenty-five sepoys under Lieutenant Tytler, as two 
or three of the picquet had been wounded. The whole 
of them fixed swords and advanced up a slight open 
hill to charff e the enemy, led by Lieutenant Tytler ; as 
they neared the crest of the hill they were met by 
about fifty Thibetans led by one of their chiefs, who 
charged down on them. Before they came to close 
quarters the Thibetan chief was shot down, seeing 
which the rest of the men turned and fled. On 
gaining the top of the hill Lieutenant Tytler saw 
some 600 Thibetans in retreat, and he killed a good 
number of them, pursuing them for several hundred 
yistrds up the valley, and had he had more men with 
him he could have effectually continued his pursuit. 
After some little time a further reinforcement of 
fifty Pioneers, under Lieutenant Digan, subsequently 
increased by 100 more, under Colonel Bromhead, 
arrived. These pursued the Thibetans nearly to the 
top of the Tukola, until enveloped in dense clouds. 



THIBETAN ARMS AND EQUIPMENT. 49 

The Koneers lost four killed and seven wounded in 
the engagement. Altogether over 100 dead Thibetans 
were found on the ground, and three times that 
number must have been wounded. 

The plucky way in which the enemy exposed 
themselves to our fire in removing their dead and 
wounded during the engagement, excited our admira- 
tion ; and, in fact, considering the rough muskets they 
used, and how badly armed they were, we all thought 
they fought courageously and well, and they went up 
considerably in our estimation. 

Most of the Thibetans were armed with a match- 
lock, 'fitted with a rest, as their chief weapon, besides 
which they carried a long, straight, clumsy cutting 
sword, a dagger, and a spear for use at close quarters. 
Some few, too, who were not provided with firearms, 
had bows and poisoned arrows, but none of these 
came to close quarters. 

They were clothed with a loose-fitting sort of coat, 
tied in at the waist, made of a light grey woollen and 
hair fabric, some also being maSe of skins of wild 
animals, and had long felt boots reaching to the knees, 
with soles of camel hair, and a roimd felt hat with the 
brim turned up. They also carried charms, prayers, 
and little images enclosed in copper boxes inscribed 
with the mystic Bhuddist prayer, besides curiously 
carved and made powder flasks and bullet bags. 

We had taken about twenty prisoners, most of 
them badly wounded, and from information obtained 
from them, which could be relied on as pretty 
accurate, they stated that the numbers who had 
started at nine the previous evening were 2300 
Thibetan soldiers. They had intended, no doubt, to 
have attacked our camp and surprised us some two 
hours earlier, but, as European commanders have done 
before them, they miscalculated their time. The men 
engaged were nearly without exception soldiers of 
splendid physique, powerfully built and well fed, and 
are believed to be the flower of the Thibetan army, 



50 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

many of them coming from Kliamba, beyond Lhassa, 
some 500 miles away. 

At three p.m. on the afternoon of the fight we 
performed the sad rite of burying poor Sergeant 
Seckington of G Company. Every European and 
officer in the camp turned out, and joined the solemn 
procession which woimd its way slowly to a knoll 
close by the lower side of the camp where his grave 
was laid. He died a soldier's death, serving his 
country with his front to the foe, and his friends and 
relations have good cause to be proud of him. 

The lieutenant-Govemor, Sir Steuart Bayley, got 
more than he bargained for in visiting Gnatong. He 
at least brought us luck in a very pretty fight, as it 
was not improbable that the Thibetans heard of his 
visit and purposely attacked on that day, the chance 
of bagging a Lieutenant-Govemor of Bengal being an 
opportunity not to be missed. Anyhow, he will be 
able to say he has been through an action and under 
fire on his return to Darjeeling. Two or three bullets 
passed through his tent, and it was just as well -he 
was not in at the time. His staff also had lots of 
shots at the enemy, and will no doubt long remember 
the 22nd of May at Gnatong. 

On the 23rd May, G Company, imder Captain 
Wylly, proceeded at dawn to reconnoitre towards the 
Jelapla. They found some dead and two wounded 
men near the Tukola Pass, and just on the reverse side 
of it a place where the Thibetans had encamped. 
They had evidently left in a hurry, as lots of tents, 
coats, hats, provisions, &c., were found lying strewn 
about all over the place. On advancing to the Nimla, 
the Kupup valley was found deserted, but thirty or 
forty Thibetans were observed carrying something up 
the Jelapla Pass, probably wounded. The usual heavy 
mist came on at about 11 a.m., totally obscuring 
everything. It is the great drawback to this place 
that for nine months in the year one is nearly always 
in the clouds. It may be clear at night time and for 



BURYING THE DEAD. 61 

a few hours in the early morning, but towards mid-day 
the heavy clouds roU up from the steamy valleys 
below, and either envelope us in dense mist, or wet us 
to the skin with rain or snow. 

We had a horrible and ghastly task in burying 
the dead on our side of the camp, which took a couple 
of days, as we feared contaminating our water supply, 
and the corpses had either to be burnt or carried some 
distance to the opposite side of the valley. Thibetans 
are about the filthiest barbarians it is possible to find, 
and apparently never wash from year s end to year's 
end, and consequently accumulate an indescribable 
amount of dirt on their persons. 

The Lieut.-Governor and staff returned to Darjeel- 
ing on the 23rd, well pleased with their experience at 
Gnatong. 

On the 24th a further reconnaisance was made by 
H Company under Captain Gosset towards the Jelapla 
Pass, when a great many fires were seen in the pass 
and a goodly number of Thibetans. They are probably 
burning their dead, or else they have established a 
strong post at the pass. 

There is also another pass about three miles to the 
right of the Jelapla Pass, which the Thibetans use 
occasionally. This pass is known as the Pemberingo 
Pass and lies about due north of our camp, and some 
six miles off. It is a steep and difficult pass on the 
borders of Bhutan. A party under Lieutenant 
Iggulden was also sent out to visit the spot where 
they fired the volleys at the Thibetans at the close of 
the action, on the 23rd, and they found a dead pony 
and two or three dead men there, besides many traces 
showing the volleys must have had considerable effect. 
It afterwards transpired that the pony belonged to 
the Thibetan Commander-in-Chief, who was leading 
the column which attacked Gnatong by the north, 
the Thibetans having attacked simulUneously in two 
columns. 

The days following the attack of the Thibetans on 



52 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

the Gnatong camp were pouring wet ones, and there 
were all the signs that the monsoon had set in, not a 
pleasant prospect for us if we had to stay up here, as 
the rainfall in these parts from the month of June to 
September is tremendous, probably not far short of 
180 inches. 

Our prisoners, who have increased in number, seem 
quite cheerful at their fate, though, poor fellows, some 
of them have frightful wounds, the Snider rifle with 
which the Pioneers are armed making a horrible 
woimd. Our doctors do their best and are able to 
gain a first-class experience in gunshot wounds of 
every description of complication. The mossy lichen, 
which hangs from the trees round here in festoons, 
makes an excellent soft substitute for lint, and in a 
few days, with the exception of one or two hopeless 
cases, all the wounded were doing well. 

Tlie prisoners say the best and bravest troops of 
Thibet were opposed to us, and that they suppose that 
now the Lamas themselves will probably form an 
army to oppose us, and naively add, they hope they 
may be there to see what happens when they do. 

The Viceroy wired his congratulations on our 
victory over the Thibetans. We are all now anxious 
to hear what the Government has decided to do next 
Needless to say we are burning to advance into 
Chumbi, and if necessary on to Lhassa. Chumbi has 
the reputation of being a delightful place with a dry 
climate, where we should escape the eternal drenching 
rains of Gnatong. The valley of Chumbi being beyond 
the first high snowy barrier of the Himalayas, most 
of the rainfall descends on the south side, so that 
comparatively little passes into Chumbi. For this 
reason the Rajah of Sikkim passes most of the year 
at his palace at Chumbi, in Thibet, preferring the 
climate and surroimdings there to his damp State of 
Sikkim. 

Towards the end of May we commenced making 
plank huts, as it is evident, if we are to stay on, we 



WAITING ON. 58 

can no longer keep a dry skin in our tents, which are 
getting rotten and worn out with the continual 
montl^' wetting they have had. 

We have l^en expecting a jfurther night attack 
from the Thibetans, and had an alarm on the night of 
the 28th, the Pioneer picquets reporting natives 
coming down the valley, but it proved to be some of 
our Political, Mr. Paul's, spies returning. 

May 31st. — We are still anxiously awaiting the 
decision of Government as to our next move. The 
Jelapla Pass is now free of snow, and occupied by a 
garrison of Thibetans, who are employed in making 
sangars and in other defensive operations. If we stay 
impotently at Gnatong, the Thibetans will surely 
pluck up courage and attack us again. The Lamas, 
who are piff-headed and obstinate, will oblige them to 
do so, and probably construe our supineness and 
inaction into fear of attacking them. They will 
probably also think they did as much damage to us 
in their attack on us at Gnatong as we did to them, 
as their Depens or leaders are not likely to magnify 
their defeat in any way. 

The proper course for us to pursue would be to 
advance to Kupup and farther to attack and drive 
the Thibetans from the Jelapla Pass, and pursue them 
into Rinchingong, a town on the other siae, and even 
to the Bajah's palace at Chumbi. After which we 
could either retire back again after sacking and 
burning what we could, or remain at Chumbi till the 
Thibetans came to their senses, or until plans are 
matured for an advance on Lhassa. The provoking 
and senseless policy of waiting for China to act in 
the matter will never result in any settlement being 
arrived at. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Disappointing decision of Government — The monsoon at Gnatong 
— Field engineering operations — ^H Company and half G 
return to Darjeeling — Increased actirity amongst the 
Thibetans — Half G Company recalled on way back to 
Darjeeling — General and staff return to Chiatong — 
Detachment also return — ^Reinforcements ordered — ^More 
Derbys to the Front — Arrival of head quarters under 
Colonel McCleverty with E and C Companies. 



June 1st. — News is received that no forward move- 
ment is to take place at present, the Government still 
apparently having faith that China would settle the 
dispute between the Lamas and ourselves, as a new 
Amba, or Chinese Ambassador, is said to be on his 
way from Pekin to Lhassa, who is going to wheel the 
Lamas into line, and bring them to reason. The 
power of the Chinese in Thibet is, however, rather 
doubtful; they are nominally the suzerain power 
there, but have not many troops in the country, 
and the Lamas do pretty well as they like, and it 
is not thought that the Amba will be able to coerce 
them, unless backed up by a considerable number of 
Chinese troops. 

Needless to say we are all very much disappointed 
at this decision, as after the determined attack by the 
Thibetans on our camp on the 22nd May, we had all 
made up our minds that the climax had come, and 
that we should not now be long in squaring our 
accoimt with the Lamas. 

However, there was no use grumbling. Diploma- 
tists and politicians seldom agree with soldiers' views 
when waging war, so all we had to do was to do as 
we were told, and keep our opinions to ourselves. 

Campaigns can seldom be finished with one or two 
pitched battles, and in most wars there is a long 



OUTWORKS IN THE JALEP-LA. 55 

period of waiting and manoeuvring before one side 
or the other has had enough, and the final treaty is 
signed. This chapter, therefore, will be devoted to a 
description of the four months waiting in our camp at 
Gnatong, with our enemy only a few miles off, and 
never knowing what the events of the next day 
would bring forth. 

June 1st to 3rd. — The usual reconnoitring parties 
of two officers and fifty men go daily to the Nimla 
Pass, leaving camp at five a.m., and returning about 
noon, and take note of the Thibetan movements on 
the Jelapla Pass. A good number of the enemy have 
been seen lately, and there is no doubt oi their 
intention of opposing our advance when we do make 
one. Large numbers are dailv observed at work in 
the Jelapla Pass, and on our side of it they have run 
up a wall along the ridge of the pass, calculated at 
over 1000 yards long, brides which they have built 
several sangars or stone walls, and a stone fort in 
various defensive positions, half-way down the gorge 
leading from the pass to Kupup, and well within our 
territory. This shows that there must be several 
thousands of them in the vicinity of the pass, as a 
good many fires are always seen burning. As the 
mist generally comes up at about eight a.m., remaining 
for the rest of the day, we have no opportunity of 
seeing them at work in the middle of the day. On 
the 2nd Jime two Thibefen prisoners were sent back 
with a letter for the Delai Lama, or head Thibetan 
official at Lhassa. They were very reluctant to leave 
us, as they had been fed and treated well, and seemed 
doubtful as to their reception on the other side. 
However, our party saw them well into the Kupup 
valley, and they were obliged to go on. 

On 3rd June Captain Gosset left us on a tour of 
road inspection as far as Rongli Chu. Our Political 
started one of his periodical alarms, that the 
Thibetans are to make a night attack in great force 
on us in the next two or three days ; accordingly we 



56 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

strengthened the defences by running wire through 
the abattis, and Lieutenant Iggulden started making 
an inundation on the north side of the camp by 
damming up the stream between two small hills. 
Satisfactory news was received that the Thibetan 
second in command was killed by Iggulden's long 
volleys on the 22nd, and that he was shot through 
the jaw and died on his way back over the Jelap 
Pass. 

June 4th to 6th. — The Thibetans failed to make 
any further attack, and nobody much expected they 
would, as we are rapidly losing faith in our Political's 
information, which has up till now proved utterly 
useless or ten days old. Probably this attack which 
was to have taken place was the one which did 
actually come off on the 22nd of last month. 
Iggulden's inundation on the right front of the camp 
is proving a great success, and we have now a small 
lake some 300 yards long by fifty wide, which would 
effectually damp the ardour of any Thibetans who 
might try to rush •the camp from that direction, the 
water being from four to twelve feet deep and icy 
cold. 

Our bird collector has been getting a large variety 
of small birds; a small variety of humming bird 
which has appeared, with plumage all the colours of 
the rainbow, being especially beautiful. 

On the 6th June, Captain *Gosset returned from his 
road inspection, and reported the road from Gnatong 
to Rongli Chu to be in a very bad state nearly all the 
way. The bottoms of the valleys are now becoming 
feverish and malarious, and Gosset was laid up with 
fever on his return. 

June 7th to 9th. — We so on- working hard at our 
hutting arrangements, and have now completed the 
skeletons of three sets of barracks, each capable of 
holding about sixty men. Two of them are being 
made defensible, the outside walls being made of 
half -sawn logs, pierced at intervals of a yard by 



HUT BUILDING. 67 

loop-holes, and will form part of the outer wall of 
the fort. All the huts are 100 feet long by 18 feet 
wide, side walls 7 feet high, 12 feet high in the 
middle. We are roofing some of them with bamboos, 
which, split up, make excellent and dry thatching, 
put on to a thickness of about a foot. A number 
of Darjeeling sawyers are also coming up, who are to 
turn out planks which will make capital roofing. 
Anything is better than tents now, and we have to 
make the most of the time, when it is not raining, 
to get on with our navvying and work, which is 
pretty heavy, in addition to the daily reconnoitring, 
guards, and picquets. 

On the 8th, Captain Wylly took a reconnoitring 
party to the left of the Nimla Pass, some three miles 
beyond, to try and obtain a view up the valley on the 
other side, and beyond the Jelapla, but he was unable 
to get a complete view of the valley owing to clouds, 
and nothing importfiijut was observed. 

On the 9th, Lieutenant Heyman, who was in 
charge of the morning reconnoitring party, saw over 
1000 Thibetans. They turned out in large numbers, 
lining the whole length of the wall on the top of the 
Jelapla Pass, as sooft as our men put in an appearance 
on the Nimla ; we expect they thought we intended 
attacking them, owing to our unusual movements 
on the previous day. They are, however, quite safe 
as far as we are concemea, as we have the strictest 
orders not to attack them. 

News was received about this time that the whole 
of the European portion of the garrison is to be 
withdrawn to Ghoom, near Darjeeling, during the 
rains, pending further negotiations with the Thibetans, 
and to be ready to return immediately if required. 
We are to move down by half companies, with 
intervals of one day between each party. The 
marches are to be very short, as the transport 
animals are beginning to suffer severely under the 
very hard work they have had, of daily convoys 



58 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

of rations for the troops at the front, over shocking 
mountain roads and in soaking rains. Both mules 
and their drivers are worn to a shadow, and the 
percentage of sick amongst the mules is as high 
as 33 per cent. 

The first party of the Derbys will leave on the 
12th, and the men are much pleased at the prospect of 
soon again reaching the comforts of civilisation and 
the canteen. 

June 10th to 13th. — It has been decided to build a 
stockade round the camp fourteen feet high, and in 
consequence we have stopped work on the huts, and 
all hands are very busy fetching up from the 
surrounding woods logs sawn in half to make the 
stockade with, and soon from all sides men are seen 
marching into camp like some gigantic species of 
caterpillar bearing huge logs on their shoulders. We 
have been served out with a couple of large saws, and 
have a saw pit of our own, wi<Ji Private Butcher as 
boss sawyer. After one or two false starts he soon 
had his saws going gaily, and he and his crew turned 
out some hundreds of feet of sawn logs in a very short 
time. 

By the time the Derbys rettftn to quarters they 
will have learnt a good many wrinkles most of us did 
not know of before. What with carpentering, house- 
building, road-making, wood-felling, draining, and 
many other various occupations connected with field 
fortification, we are all more or less practical engineers 
by now. 

The last day or two we have been blessed with 
fine weather, and the nights have been clear and 
bright, but although we are nearing the middle of 
June we have had frost the last two nights. 

On 12th June Captain Gosset, Lieutenant 
Heyman, and the right half of H Company 
marched out of Gnatong en route for Darjeeling, 
which they reach in eight marches. Lieutenant 
Temple and the left half of H follow on the 14th, 



WITHBHAWAL OT EimOPEANS. 59 

and on the 16 th Lieutenant Bowman and the right 
half of G started down. 

On the 14th June our native spies captured two 
Thibetans on the Tukola ; there were three of them, 
but one escaped. They were in a great fright when 
brought in, no doubt thinking they would be treated 
by us as their people would treat any of us if we fell 
into their hands, which would probably be a boiling in 
oil, or something equally horrible. They said they 
had come to look for food and elotheR, having heard a 
lot of these commodities had been left on the Tukola 
Pass. Further interrogation elicited the news that 
there were 3500 Thibetan soldiers posted on the 
Jelapla and in Chumbi, but that they were much 
disheartened by their late defeat, and were not at 
all anxious for another fight, and besides being very 
short of food, that it was only the fear of incurring 
the wrath of the laiuas that kept them there at alK 

On the 16th two small mountain ffuns of an 
obsolete type arrived, and were handed to the 
Pioneers to take the place of the two guns of 9-1 
R.A, Mountain Battery, which were to return to 
Darjeeling, They are not as accurate or long 
ranging aa the new pattern mountain ncrew gun, 
but are fairly useful up to 2500 yai'ds, and better 
than nothing. 

On the 17th the General and Staft' left for Padong 
after trying the new guns. Several r^mnds were fired 
at a stone Imt some 800 yards off, and when the 
range was found the shooting was fairly good, and 
much better than was expected. It is believed these 
guns were last used in the Abyssinian war, and 
possibly the 1st Battalion of the Derbys, the 45th, 
may have seen them there. On the 18th the two 
guns 9-1 R.A. left, and only the left half of G 
Company and the Pioneers remained in the fort. 

All the new stockMle is now complete and loop- 
holed, with a banquette on the inside about four feet 
high, and may be considered fairly secure against 




60 THB SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

anything that the Thibetans are likely to bring 
against ua It would be next to impossible for them 
to rush it at night, surrounded as it is by a heavy 
abattis, wire entonglements, and an inundation, and 
having also a very steep khud on the north-west side. 

We now get quantities of wild rhubarb, and revel 
in tarts, stews, and jams. The rhubarb is just the 
same as the garden stuff produced in England, only 
much smaller, and the fiW5id taste is very agreeable, 
after being without fresh fruit or vegetables so long. 
The break in the weather still hol^ up, and it is 
bright and sunshiny, and the number and variety of 
wild flowers to be found on the mountain now is 
almost incredible, parts of the hill sides being a blaze 
of colour discernible at a long distance. The follow- 
ing are among the more common flowers met with — 
Polyanthus, and a species of primrose, forget-me-nots, 
anemonies, azaleas, rhododendrons, violets, butter-cups; 
all in several colours, besides a host of other plants 
too numerous to mention, even if we knew haJi their 
names. 

June 20th to 22nd. On the morning of the 20th 
Captain Wylly and lieutenant Iggulden with the left 
half of G Company marched out of Gnatong, being 
the last British troops to go, leaving the fort in the 
sole possession of some 600 of the Pioneers under 
command of Colonel Sir B. Bromhead. 

The first march was quite a short one of five miles 
to lingtu. The road along this path was fairly 
good and level, and the short distance was soon 
accomplished, as we had mules for our transport. 
The men were accommodated in tents, as the serai 
at Lingtu was too dirty to live in. We had heavy 
rain in the afternoon and some of the tents got 
flooded. It rained pretty hard on the morning of the 
21st, but fortunately cleared up at about eight a.m., 
and was soon fine enough for us to make a start for 
Jeluksoo, about five and a-half miles down hill aU 
the way. 



EECALI* OF G COMPANY, 



61 



To-day we had about eighty coolies instead of 
mule traiiRport. They gave i3s some trouble at 
Btarting, as eaeh coolie wanted to gi*ab the lightest 
load, and all began to jabber at once, after the manner 
of natives, A judicious application of the boot and 
bamboo, however, eventnally settled things to every 
one's satisfaction, and the whole crowd were shortly 
on the move with tlieir respective burdens. The road 
doT^Ti to Jeluksoo was very steep and rough, being 
like the dry bed of a torrent in many places. Here 
we found tents pitched, and tlie temperature much 
warmer, having descended 40Q0 feet. 

It rained heavily on the night of tiie 21st, and at 
about tliree a.m. we were awoke by a messenger bearing 
an urgent telegram from the D.A,A,G, at Padong, 
ordering us to stand fast, as an attack was expected 
at Gnatong. We waited anxiously till daylight, and 
at about seven a.m. we received a flag message from 
Lingtu ordering us back to Gnatong with all possible 
speed, as an attack from the Thibetans was imminent. 
As soon as possible, therefore, leaving a small guard 
to bring in our baggage, we started off on onr 
counter-march to Gnatong, taking our ammunition 
with us, eleven miles, with a climb of 4000 feet in it. 
It wa-^ 8.15 a.m. when we left Jeluksoo, and we 
reached Gnatong at about 11.30 a.m. This was a 
remarkable pertormance considering the bad and 
rough state of the road, the steepness of the ascent, 
and the high and trying elevation. The Pioneers 
were much astonished at seeing us back so soon, as 
they did not expect us to aiTive till late in the 
afternoon ; but they little knew the marching power 
of the Derbys, and of the *' fighting forty" in 
particular, for thus the left half of G Company were 
proud to call themselves. Colonel Bromhead had 
kindly got a plank hut ready for us, which just 
accommodated our half company, and was a gi'eat 
improvement to being under canvas. All the men 
had an extra dram of rum, and some warm coats to 



62 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

put on till our baggage arrived, which it did about 
3 p.m., thanks to the exertions of Lance-Corporal 
Webb, who with his very small guard must have had 
very hard work in getting it on so quickly, as it had 
to be tied up and reloaded at lingtu, where they 
changed from coolies to mulea 

The reason of our recall appears to have been that 
yesterday, on the 21st, the usual reconnoitring party 
saw some 3000 Thibetans in the Jelapla gorge 
actively engaged in carrying down stores or some- 
thing towards the Kupup valley. A great swell, 
dressed entirely in white, and with a large escort, 
was also seen going about. These visible signs, and 
our Politicars fiSarming telegrams that an attack was 
to be made on us about the 25th, rendered it advisable 
that the native troops at Gnatong should not be 
unsupported by British. Our only hopes now are 
that our recall will not be for nothing. Every one 
went to bed early, as there is a full moon, and it is 
a likely night for an attack. 

♦ Jime the 23rd to 30th. — Fine morning on the 
23rd but no sign of the Thibetans. The Pioneers had 
some more practice with their two mountain guns, 
and made very good shooting. In the afternoon 
there was a false alarm, that the Thibetans were 
approaching from Shalambi in our rear, between this 
and Lingtu, but it turned out to be only some coolies 
who were mistaken by an excited mule driver for the 
enemy. Much excitement among the sepoys to-night, 
as they think we are certainly to be again attacked. 
The Chinese envoy is due to arrive at Lhassa on the 
25th, and it is said the Thibetans will make a final 
attempt to drive us out, before the Amba puts a 
stop to their further proceedings. It rained hard all 
the 24th and 25th, and our reconnoitring parties 
could see nothing owing to heavy clouds. 

On the 26th two Thibetan warriors came in, 
bearing a letter from the Phari Jpngpen in answer to 
one of our previous letters, and in which he proposed 



A RECORD MARCH. 63 

that a meeting should be held in the Kupup valley, 
between the Phodong Lama and Sikkim Dewan on 
our side, and himself and some other Thibetan 
authorities on theirs; the date to be settled by ua 
These Thibetan soldiers, who were remarkably fine 
well-made men, told us that the Chinese Ambassador 
had arrived at Lhassa. A reply was sent back on the 
27th, and the Thibetans were each made a present of 
fifty rupees and were well fed and entertained on our 
side. They were also allowed to see the fort and 
whatever they liked, which we thought rather a 
mistake. 

On the evening of the 26th, Sergeant McCuUough 
of G Company arrived in camp, having walked in 
from Darjeeling, a distance of nearly eighty miles, in 
two days. This N.C.O. had always evinced the most 
keen aftid soldier-like spirit throughout the expedition, 
and hearing that an attack was imminent at Gnatong 
had marched oflF to rejoin the headquarters of his 
company. The performance of marching forty miles 
a day over wretched hill roads, and up and down 
stupendous mountains, often in torrents of rain, 
saddled with a rifle, ammunition, and accoutrements, 
was a remarkable one, and the spirit animating such 
a deed could not but excite our warmest admiration ; 
though strictly speaking Sergeant McCullough should 
have remained with Lieutenant Bowman's half com- 
pany. However, Captain Wylly could not find it in 
his heart to reprimand such a deed, prompted as it 
was by an overmastering desire to be fii'st in any 
attack on the enemy, and we were glad to have 
McCullough again with us, and hoped he would have 
another opportunity of displaying his courage. 

Such was the spirit, indeed, of the whole of the 
Derbyo, who were always anxious to be the first at the 
enemy, who endured the hardships of cold and dis- 
comforts of life at Gnatong without a murmur, and 
were ready to undergo any duty they were called on 
to do. 



64 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

General Graham and staff returned to Gnatong on 
the 27th, and on the 29th we were able to get a 
glimpse of the Jelapla again, after some three days* 
rain, and found that the Thibetans had built a new 
wall right across the gorge some hundred yards 
nearer Kupup valley than the old fortification, since 
we last saw the place. There were also about twenty 
tents pitched up the pass. On tjie 30th some Bhutias 
brought in a letter from Rinchingong, but the 
contents were not divulged. We have now a great 
many Nepal wood-cutters and sawyers up here, who 
turn out a large number of planks daily, so that 
hutting arrangements are proceeding pretty briskly. 

July 1st to 10th. — We had some more trials at 
night with star shells, which lit up the hill side 
opposite us for about a quarter of a minute, and were 
very successful. I fancy they would considerably 
astonish the Thibetans if they ever make a ni^t 
attack, which they are always threatening to do. We 
also had some target practice with some Thibetan 
matchlocks we had captured, using about seven drams 
of their own powder, and their own bullets, but could 
not make much of them, only managing to hit a six- 
foot square target twice at a hundred yards out of a 
dozen shots. 

On July 5th we had another scare, reports being 
brought in that some 2000 Thibetans were in the 
Kupup valley, and 100 more were advancing on the 
Tukola. Some shots were exchanged between a 
picquet of the Pioneers on the Tukola, but the 
Thibetans did not advance towards Gnatong. It 
turned out from subsequent information that the 
Thibetans had turned out in force to attempt to 
entrap the Phodong Lama, who was to have had an 
interview in the Kupup valley with the Phari Jong. 
However, as General Graham would not allow the 
Lama to attend, the Thibetans were unable to carry- 
out their treacherous design. 

We are all hoping something definite as to our 



IMPROVING DEFENCES. 65 

future policy will soon be arrived at, as the 
Thibetans are getting bolder at our inactivity, and it 
is high time the Chinese Amba interfered, which 
he has had plenty of time to do. But it looks very 
much as if he either did not care to order the 
Thibetans to withdraw or had not the power to do so, 
in which case our hand will be forced, and the 
Government will have to go in for more active 
measures than hitherto. We all hope the remainder 
of the regiment will be ordered up, and that another 
few weeks will see us in Thibet. 

July 10th to 20th.— In addition to the Thibetans 
in the Jelapla, they are now known to occupy the 
Pemberingo Pass, a steep pass about two miles to the 
right of the Jelap, and are fortifying it with sangars, 
in the same way they have the other pass ; one can 
now count seventy of their tents in the Jelap and 
twenty in the Pemberingo. 

We, too, on our side are improving our defences, 
and a series of powerful block houses of great 
strength, to hold a garrison of twenty men each, are 
bein^ built round the fort, on all the commanding 
positions. 

On the 21st, Lieutenant Iggulden, with a recon- 
noitring party, surprised some Thibetans who had 
advanced across the Kupup valley, and fired several 
volleys at fhem at a range of about 700 yards, 
killing seven or eight of them. 

Ji3y 22nd to 31st. — The native spies bring in news 
that there is a considerable movement amongst the 
enemy. Fresh tents are being pitched daily in the 
two passes, and even a few in the Kupup valley, and 
there must be over 300 tents of theirs pitched inside 
our territory, which ought to represent 3000 
Thibetans in Sikkim, and goodness knows how many 
more in reserve on the other side of the passes. 

On the 23rd Captain Wylly fired on a party of 
150 Thibetans who were building sangars in the 
Kupup valley and killed and wounded several. We 
F 



66 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

hear the Darjeeling detachment is to come here again, 
Lieutenant Bowman's half of G Company and four 
guns 9-1 R.A. to come to Gnatong; H Company and 
two guns go to Padong for the present. We also 
hear that we are to be reinforced next month, by two 
more companies of ours and a battalion of Gurkhas, 
preparatory to an advance and attack on the passes, 
news which is hailed with delight. 

Accordingly, we start to work to get huts ready 
to accommodate the other half of G C&mpany. The 
Thibetans here have removed their tents from Kupup, 
probably regarding the plfiW5e unsafe after the experi- 
ence Captain Wylly impressed on them the other 
day. They have, however, increased the number 
of tents in both valleys leading to the passes; 
the Pemberingo valley is crowded with tents and 
looks like a small town. We hear that the 
Thibetan transport is now in first-class working 
order, and that they have 1000 yaks and 500 
mules working supplies up regularly from a place 
called Giantze, a large town in the interior of Thibet, 
where provisions are said to be plentiful. We often 
observe, when on reconnaisance, plenty of mules 
and ponies bringing baggage across the passes, or 
grazing in the valley below, and have great hopes in 
future operations of mounting ourselves on one of 
these. It is also reported that a Thibetan chief of 
the name of " Serkumse " has returned from Khumba, 
a place beyond Lhassa, with a large levy of recruits 
to carry on the war with, and is now at Rinchingong, 
a town on the far side of Jelapla. As reinf orcemente 
are arriving for the armies on both sides, it looks as 
if a crisis is impending. 



CHAPTER Vn. 



Enlargement of Gnatong camp to receive reinforcements — ^Head- 
quarters Derby Begiment with E and C Company leave 
Di|m Dam — Bail to Darjeeling— H Company returns to 
Gnatong— March of C and E Company — ^Arrival of the 2nd 
BattaUon of the 1st Gurkhas — Great cake competition — 
Thibetans still truculent — ^Waiting till the douds roll by. 



We are now entering on a fresh era of this protracted 
campaign, and with the arrival of fresh trobps hope 
that a speedy termination may be brought to the 
weary ^me of sitting still in front of an enemy we 
are spoiling to go for, but are not allowed to. 

August 1st to 10th.— The "fighting forty" of G 
Company work hard to get the new hut they are 
builoing ready for the other half of Q on its arrival. 
It will be the best hut in the place, and has quite a 
noble appearance. On the 22nd August, it being a 
warm day, we had a bathing parade in the afternoon, 
and most of the men had a swim in the inundation, 
which is six to fourteen feet deep in the middle, but 
the water was colder than we expected, and nobody 
cared to stay in long. Afterwards we played f ootbaU 
to warm ourselvea 

On the 5th the right half of G Company imder 
Lieutenant Bowman arrived all sound, l^ey looked 
rather pale by the side of the men who had remained 
here, but no doubt three or four days will soon alter 
that. 

Still busy building more huts, a hospital, and two 
cook houses. We now run up a hut in no time and 
are quite expert at the work, and notwithstanding 
our grumbling we are really probably much happier 
out here than in cantonmente ; and all the busy work 
with hardly ever a spare moment makes the time pass 



68 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

quickly. The men are all wonderfully fit and we 
have had no sickness. 

On the 6th the General and staff accompany our 
reconnoitring party and make a thorough examina- 
tion of the Thibetan frontier. Lieutenant Iggulden 
is busy making a survey of the Gnatong vaUey and 
surroundings up to the Jelapla Pass, which will be 
useful by-and-bye. We are having a break in the 
rains at last, which we hope is a foretaste of the close 
of the monsoon. 

August 11th to 17th. — On the 13th four guns 
9-1 R.A. arrived at Gnatong. We are now preparing 
a camping ground for the remaining companies of 
ours, arid as there is no room in the fort, a new piece 
of ground in the main Gnatong valley, immediately 
below the fort and commanded by it, is to be occupied, 
which vdll hold three companies of owes and the 
Gurkha battalion, or nearly 1000 men altogether. 
It is a difficult place to form a camp on, as the ground 
is very steep and stony, and terraces have to be cut 
out of the lull side, some of the stones to be removed 
being very large and troublesome to get out. 

We hear that the remainder of the Derbyshire 
Regiment will go to Darjeeling, and occupy the 
barracks of the Artillery there, as they have had 
a scare in that place, and a report was circulated 
and obtained credence that 600 Thibetans had 
advanced past us and were preparing to loot Dar- 
jeeling at any moment. The Volunteer band are said 
to have dropped their instruments and fled when 
hearing of it, and many ladies, too, left for 
Calcutta by the next train, thoroughly believing 
the stoiy ; whilst others packed up their goods, and 

Srepared to leave for the convalescent barracks at 
alapahar at a moment's notice. It seems pretty 
certain, however, that a very large force of Thibetans 
are collected on or about the Jelapla Pass, and their 
numbers are estimated at anything from 13,000 to 
17,000, and native rumour exaggerates accordingly. 



ARRIVAL OF REINFORCEMENTS. 69 

Orders were received at the headquarters of the 
regiment for the despatch of two more companies 
of the DerWshire Re^ment on August 10th, and 
lieutenant-Colonel McCleverty decided, therefore, to 
make the four companies at Qnatong the headquarters 
of his regiment, and ordered E and C Companies to 
the front to join G and H. C Company was Captain 
Godley's company, with Lieutenants Granville and 
Lewame as its subalterns. E Company was Major 
Hume's company, having Lieutenant Wilson as sub- 
altern. Captain Godley had already gone to Sikkim 
to take command of H Company, in relief of Captain 
Gosset, who had been ordered home to the depot. 
E Company was on detachment at Barrackpore. 

" C and E Companies, with Lieutenant-Colonel 
McCleverty commanding, Lieutenant Stopford, adju- 
tant, and Lieutenant and Quartermaster Fox, set out 
from Dum Dum and Barrackpore on the 15th August, 
and railed through to Darjeeling, which they reached 
on the 16th, sleeping for the night in the Artillery 
Barracks at Jalapahar, where they arrived very late, 
owing to the train from Silligori to Ghoom breaking 
down, finding the load too heavy for one engine to 
drag up the hill. However, on another engine arriving 
and the train being split in two, the day's journey 
was finished. The men were much pleased at getting 
a free drink on the way up, presented by some 
hospitable and kind-hearted ladies at Kurseong. 

On August 17th C and E Companies made their 
first march, fourteen miles, to Pashok, starting at 
11 a.m. The march was down hill all the way, and 
tried the men's feet considerably. The transport 

S)nies provided were a very indifferent lot, and Major 
ume and E Company on rear guard had a very bad 
time of it, and got drenched to the skin. This was 
their first experience in tuming-in, wet through, 
without a change of kit and getting no dinner till 
aftor tattoo, but they got more used to it before 
reaching Gnatong. 



70 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

August 18th. — ^A march of four miles to the 
Teesta Bridge and ten miles up to Kalimpong. The 
heat of the Teesta valley and long pull up, with 
seventy rounds pouch ammunition, was found very 
trying. Many of the baggage animals had dis- 
appeared, and Lieutenant Lewame and rear guard did 
not leave Pashok till mid-day. 

August 19th. — From Kafimpong to Padong, about 
twelve miles. A fairly steep ascent to 6100 feet and 
then down again to 4700. The huts at Padong were 
found very leaky, and a good deal of difficulty was 
experienced by the cooks in getting dinner ready 
owing to the rain. Here a lot more of the pony 
transport decamped, and they were supplied with 
tents and mule transport. 

August 20th. — A trying march to Dolepchen, said 
to be fourteen miles, but seemed to be a good deal 
longer, and we are all of opinion that the surveyors 
of these roads omitted to consider the comers when 
putting up mile stones; Irish miles are not in it! 
Another general drenching, and consequent discomfort 
to every one. The rear guard of C Company did not 
arrive in camp till eleven p.m., and many of the tents 
were, therefore, never pitdied, men and officers taking 
shelter wherever they could for the night. Many 
kits were left behind owing to insufficient transport, 
and the heavy kit was left behind here under charge 
of the Quartermaster, Lieutenant Fox, and a small 
party. They followed on two days later, but all their 
meat rations went bad and they had to put up with 
biscuits for three days. * 

August 2l8t. — To Keulaka, a pretty march along 
the vfidjey of a river ending up with a very stiff 
climb. Incessant rain again, and the camping ground 
ankle-deep in mud. Our transport was supplemented 
by some more mules, which improved matters con- 
siderably. 

August 22nd. — March to Jeluksoo, five miles 
according to the route, but more like five leagues by 



HEADQUARTERS DERBYSHIRES ARRIVE. ^1 

the actual road. A stiff pull up to 9000 feet. Again 
we arrived at Jeluksoo wet through, and found an 
extra tot of rum necessary to keep out the cold. Our 
sentries here got very energetic, and on one occasion 
in answer to the challenge, the challenged one replied 
* Sepoy ! ' ' Spy ! are you,' said our sentry, ' then 
come along with me to the guard'; and the 
unfortunate man was marched off, and explanations 
followed. 

On 23rd. Having heard that the Thibetans were 
expected to attack Qnatong we made an early start, 
full of courage and with revolvers loaded. We 
climbed up to lingtu by moonlight, and saw the sun 
rising over Kinchinjunga, our first view of the snows. 
A terribly hard climb, but we eventually got to the 
top, though we heard no sounds of the Thibetan 
attack. We descended gently to Gnatong, five miles 
on, and were exceedingly glad to get to the end of 
our journey, though many of us only possessed the 
kit we stood in. At Qnatong C, E, and H Companies 
are encamped on a slope below the fort, and we have 
to run up a wall and abattis round our camp in case 
of attack." 

Such was the itinerary of the march of the E and 
C Companies bringing up the headquarters of the 
Derbyshire Regiment to Gnatong. They had had 
rough times, as marching during a heavy monsoon in 
these mountains is no joke. We now numbered over 
400 men of the Derbyshire Regiment at the front, 
and a further company was ordered later as a reserve 
to Padong, making altogether five full companies 
engaged in the campaign. 

In the meantime, H Company, under Captain 
Godley, with Lieutenants Temple and Heyman, 
marched up to Gnatong from Padong, and camped 
inside the fort until the arrival of the other com- 
panies, when they moved down to the lower 
camp. 

August 18th to 25th. Some Bhutias arrived on 



72 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

the 19th with a letter from the Bhutia Rajah, but 
containing nothing of much importance. They came 
by the Natula Pass as the Thibetans would not allow 
them to come over either the Jelapla or the Pem- 
beringo Passes. 

On the 23rd Captain Wylly went out at two a.m. 
to the Nimla to try and surprise the Thibetaxis, who 
were said to be in the habit of coming at night to the 
Tukola, but was unsuccessful. 

We had a tremendous downpour of rain on the 
evening of the 23rd, which washed away the bridge 
over the East Gnatong stream, and made it extremely 
uncomfortable for the companies that arrived that 
day and were camped below, as many of them were 
without blankets or warm clothes. 

On .the 24th two companies of the 2nd 1st 
Gurkhas arrive and go into camp with our three 
companies in the lower camp. 

August 26th to. 31st. iStart building a mess hut, 
as we shall probably remain here for some time, and 
also hard 'at work fortifying and hutting the lower 
camp. 

Our menagerie up here received an addition of 
two cat bears, one of which was caught by some of 
our men. These animals are curious little beasts 
about the size of a badger. Their head is like that 
of a bear and of a whitish colour, whilst their tail 
and claws are those of a cat. The general colour of 
their bodies is a brightish red, and they have lovely 
long soft fur, which should be valuable if one could 
only get enough of it. We also have a serow and 
musk deer; l^ides an assortment of pi-dogs that 
have turned up in the most extraordinary manner, 
and have attached themselves to the regiment. 

The whole of the Gurkhas are now here, and very 
useful and smart they look. They are a young lot of 
soldiers, having been raised only two years, and are 
very keen for a fight with the Thibetans. 

Our companies that have lately come up from 



RECONNAISSANCE IN FORCE. 73 

Dum Dum are daily hardening themselves by long 
marches, as it takes some little time to get accustomed 
to these hiffh altitudes, and every one on first coming 
up is troubled more or less with shortness of breath. 

September 1st to 4th. — The lower camp is now 
getting quite a settled appearance, surrounded as it is 
by a stone wall some four feet high, with abattis in 
front of it, and connected with the upper fort by a 
loop-holed planked wall. Stone raised paths are now 
laid down, and it is possible to walk about down 
there without going up to one's knees in mud. Each 
company is hutting itself in turn. 

On 4th August, the General took G Company and 
two guns with him to make a thorough examination 
of the Thibetan position in the Pemberingo and Jelap 
Passes, and as the morning was fine a good view was 
obtained. The Thibetans also turned out in some 
force on seeing us, accompanied as we were by the 
General and steff, and several other mounted officers 
who had turned out to have a look at^the place. 
They showed no disposition to attack us, and beyond 
lining their sangars and sending some of their men to 
drive in thirteen of their ponies, which were grazing 
on the shores of the Bedang Chu Lake (and which we 
could have captured had we been allowed to go for 
them), they remained passively watching us. When 
we retired some of their scouts followed at a respectful 
distance, and exchanged some shots with the Pioneers, 
who are now employed repairing the road between 
this and Nimla. The Pioneers have also made a 
direct road to the Pemberingo ridge, which will be 
useful in case the Thibetans attack and we have to 
pursue them. 

September 5th to 8th. — ^All our men go out 
marchmg every morning, training for the coming 
fight in the Jelap. We have started a library to 
enable the men to pass the weary hours when we are 
confined to our tents by torrents of rain, and soon 
have quite a respectable number of books and 



74 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

magazines kindly sent by the ladies of Darjeeling. 
As the good people of Darjeeling seem to take sudi 
a kindly interest in our proceedings up here, the 
bright and happy idea of fostering and encouraging 
their sympathies by organising a cake competition 
inspirea the brain of one of our most popular 
subalterns, and was accordingly acted upon. The 
following were a few of the rules : — " A committee of 
three judges was appointed. The prize was to be a 
handsome gold bangle presented by the mess. Any 
cakes competing to weigh over five pounds. Pointe 
given for size, quality, and appearance. The cakes to 
be numbered in Darjeeling before despatch, so that 
there should be no chance of ^rtiality in giving the 
award. All expenses for carriage to be paid by the 
officers' mess." The idea took on like wild-fire, and 
cakes of all sorts and descriptions soon came 
laboriously up the hill, and there was great excite- 
ment amongst the fair sex at Darjeeling over the 
competition Our Colonel was in fear and trembling 
as to what the results might be to some of the young 
officers, but as they generally manage to pull through 
most ordeals, he trusted nothing fotal would occur. 
As entries for this sporting event did not close till the 
end of September, I will defer a description of the 
result to the next chapter. 

Arrangements for an advance against the 
Thibetans are now complete, and we only pray for a 
cessation of the monsoon, to be made qmte happy. 
Each man will carrv seventy rounds of ammunition 
in his pouch, and a further reserve of sixty per man 
will be taken on mules. Two blankets, a great coat, 
and a waterproof sheet will also be carried on mules. 
It is expect^ we shall bivouac out three nights, going 
as far as Chumbi. 

September 9th to 12th. — ^The field telegraph is 
laid down as far as the Tukola, from whence a cable 
will be run along the ground, following the force as 
far as it goes. 



CAPTURE OF THIBETANS. 75 

We have several amateur photographers up here 
now, and very good views of the place and sur- 
roundings have been obtained. 

On the 12th a small reconnoitring party of 
Gurkhas, under Lieutenant Ryder, went down to the 
valley below Pemberingo, and under cover of the 
clouds and mist surprised a small picquet of the 
Thibetans at the east end of Lake Bidang, who 
were posted in a small sangar there. There were five 
of them, and they were completely cut off from their 
line of retreat. On being called on to surrender by 
Lieutenant Ryder, they showed fight, and tried to 
escape, and in the mSl^e that ensued two of them 
were killed, two escaped, and one was captured and 
brought into the camp. No casualties on our side. 

On the 13th the Gurkhas captured another 
prisoner, and shot two more Thioetans. These 
prisoners were Kham soldiers, and came from some 
way beyond Lhassa; they were men of splendid 
physique. They reported on examination that there 
were 2000 men in the Pemberingo, and 7000 in the 
Jelapla Pass, and that they had a big gun at 
Rinchingong capable of shooting four or five miles. 
They say that the mass of their men are encamped 
some two or three miles on the far side of Jelapla, 
and that ten men occupy each tent. 

We now often exchange shots with small parties 
of Thibetans, but they have learned the range and 
effect of our rifles, and keep at a respectful distance. 
They have ten or twelve guns of sorts in the Jelapla 
gorge, probably wall pieces, and these open fire 
whenever we go near that place, but no one has yet 
seen or heard any of the cannon balls from them. 

We have a clear day on the 15th, and it really 
looks like a break at last. The mules are therefore, 
ordered up to Shalambi, two miles off, and if we only 
get clear weather for a few days, we shall at last 
advance, and hope to finish off th^ war in a week or 
two. 



76 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

The other half battalion under Major Lloyd, 
consisting of A, B, D, and F Companies, proceed to 
Darjeeling on the 17th September, and A Company, 
under Captain Etheridge, moves thence to Padong. 




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76 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

The other half battalion under Major Lloyd, 
consisting of A, B, D, and F Companies, proceed to 
Darjeeliiig on the 17th September, and A Company, 
under Captain Etheridge, moves thence to Padong. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Final preparations for an advance — ^Man lost in the jungle— 
Beconnaisance in force — ^Advance of the whole of the 
Thibetan army to the Tokola — ^Attack and defeat of 
Thibetans — Capture of Jelapla Pass — Pursuit, and capture 
of Binchingong — Advance to Ghumbi — ^Betum to Gnatong 
—Pine weather and festivities. 



September 16th to 19th. — Every preparation is made 
for an advance should there be any signs of a final 
break in the rains, for which we are still waiting, a 
process, combined with the trying weather, which is 
beginning to tell somewhat on our naturally fine and 
even tempers. But it is too risky an operation to 
advance in this weather, and bivouac at 14,000 feet, 
with the chance of finding the morning of the attack 
wet and misty, and having to grope our way over an 
unknown and diflBcult country in the clouds. 

It is the intention of General Graham to bivouac 
for the night on the Tukola, previous to attacking, 
and to advance with the first streak of dawn on the 
Jelapla. We have, therefore, sent out a lot of charcoal 
to the Tukola, in order to prepare some hot cocoa 
before starting on the morning of the attack ; as, no 
doubt, when the day does come off*, it will be a long 
and trying one, and it will be advisable to start on a 
full stomach. 

We are longing to get this afiair finished ; most of 
us have had quite enough of suspense and waiting in 
the discomforts of Gnatong for the last six months. 
On the night of the l7th the Thibetans cut down 
some telegraph posts, which had been carried as far as 
the Nimla. They carried off some wire and insulators, 
but not much damage was done, as they can soon be 
replaced. They are, however, getting bolder, and 



78 THE SIKKIM CAlfPAIGN. 

require a lesson. There is the usual rumour that they 
will attack us on the night of the 20th, when there 
will be a full moon, and that they have been 
reinforced by an army of 6000 Lamas. We all hope 
they will not fail to come, and the more the merrier. 
Our colonel has, we are sorry to say, been very seedy 
since his arrival here. 

September 20th to 23rd. — ^One of our men, Private 
Hope, was found to be missing on the 20th. He had 
gone out shooting in the morning, and as he did not 
return search parties were sent out to look for him. 
It is not likely he is captured by the enemy, as he 
went in the other direction. It is feared he may have 
met with an accident and fallen down the khud. All 
efforts to find him were unavailing, until after 100 
rupees reward had been offered for his discovery. He 
was eventually found senseless by some of the native 
political men on the 22nd, and brought in in a very 
exhausted condition, from some three or four miles 
down the hill side in the Bhutan jungles. He had a 
narrow escape of a lingering death by starvation. 

On the 21st G Company Derbys and two guns 
went to the Nimla to reconnoitre, and discover the 
position of the enemies' guns. They were followed 
by some 400 of the Pioneers to work on the road, with 
a covering party of the Gurkhas. An early start was 
made, and on reaching the Tukola some fifty Thibetans 
were seen on the Nimla. They fired a few harmless 
volleys, and retired by a pass known as the Shaly 
Pass, to the left of the Nimla. On our reaching the 
Nimla, the Thibetans turned out in force, and crowned 
the hill tops on the opposite side of the valley. Half 
G Company went on to the Shaly Pass, and hialf went 
down the road to the Jelap, and fired a few volleys at 
some Thibetans, knocking over a few of them, on 
which all their guns, six in number, opened fire on us. 
They appeared to be posted along the lower wall in 
the Jelap gorge, and one or two up the hill side, on a 
steeply sloping hill on the left of the gorge we had 



ADVANCE OF THE ENEMY. 



n 



christened Tent Hill. Our guns replied from the 
Nimla, firing half - a - dozen shells at the enemy's 
position, one shrapnel bursting just over a gi'oup of 
about fifty of them, scattering them in all directions, 
and no doubt accounting for a good many. It was 
very amusing when we flashed a heliograph on some 
of them, in an interval of sunlight They evidently 
thought something unusual was going to happen, as 
they laid down flat and took cover at once. 

The Thibetans have staiied putting abattis in 
front of their walls, a new departure in field forti- 
fication for them, and no doubt cribbed from us. 

On the 22nd the Thibetans made an attempt to 
surprise our Gurkha picquet» but carae off second 
best. (This picquet goes up daily to the Tukola at 
dai^Ti, and patrols m far as the Nimla.) On reaching 
the Nimla they found themselves nearly surrounded 
by Thibetans, who yelled at them, and opened fire on 
the Gurkhas at about 100 yards off only. The 
Gurkhas stood their groimd and returned their fire, 
dropping two or three of them, who were carried off. 
The whole of the enemy then retired quickly down 
the Kupup road. 

On the 23rd we were to have had a practice mule- 
loading parade, but were obliged to put it off on 
accoimt of heavy rain. 

September 24th.^Early this morning the most 
welcome and unexpected news was circulated, that 
the Thibetans had advanced during the night and 
were threatening the camp with an attack. At first 
none of us were inclined to believe the report, as this 
would be news almost too good to be true, and we 
thought that it was probably merely some more than 
usually enterprising Thibetan reconnoitring party 
taking a look at our fort from the top of the Tukola, 
and that they would soon retire on our morning 
picquet going out 

But on the picquet proceeding out as the light 
became clearer and objects became more distinct, it 



80 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

was soon evident that the enemy were in great force 
and meant business, which they took no pains to 
conceal. 

As the other side of the valley became visible, 
it was seen that the enemy lined the whole of the 
ridge from the right of the dip, leading towards 
Pemberingo, to some 800 yards to the left of the 
Tukola Pass, and what astonished us still more was 
that during the night they had built a huge loop-holed 
wall along the crest, some two miles long, and a large 
party of them were hard at work raising sangars on 
an eminence about 1000 yards nearer the fort, down 
the main Gnatong Valley, leading from Pemberingo. 

It was pretty evident therefore, from the work 
they had done, that many thousands of them must be 
there ; visual evidence too was not wanting, as masses 
of them could be seen through the glasses, drawn up 
behind their lengthy crescent-shaped wall, whilst 
every now and again volleys of their peculiar yells or 
war-cries would come ringing down the valley. 

All was soon bustle and excitement in camp. The 
Thibetans had sold themselves, for we never dreamed 
that they would give up their vantage ground in the 
passes, and advance on Gnatong. They had, however, 
evidently got sick of waiting for us to attack them, 
and had determined on taking the initiative. Our 
patience was about to be rewarded, and we were at 
last about to have a reckoning for these months of 
weary waiting and damp discomfort. 

The morning was unfortunately somewhat cloudy, 
with intervals of sunshine, and the promise of a clear 
day was uncertain. 

At first we were uncertain whether the Thibetans 
intended attacking the fort at once, and accordingly 
the walls were manned, and we prepared to give them 
a warm reception. At about seven a.m. it became 
evident that we should have to go out and attack them, 
and preparations for an advance were therefore made. 
The baggage mules were sent for from Shalambi, 



COUNTER ATTACK. 81 

where they were kept, two miles in our rear, and in 
the meanwhile we packed up our twenty pounds of kit 
each, had our breakfast, and made our final prepara- 
tions before leaving the camp. 

It was 8.30 before everything was complete, and 
a general advance to attack ordered. The plan of 
atteck ordered by General Graham was as loUows. 
The attack was to be made in three columns. 

The right column consisted of G Company Derby 
Regiment, two companies Pioneers, and two Pioneer 
guns, under Major Halkett of the Pioneers. This 
column was ordered to move up the South Gnatong 
valley to a place beyond Woodcock Hill, about one 
and a-half miles off, and whence a good position for 
the guns was obtainable, and to co-operate and 
advance towards Pemberingo on the other columns 
gaining the Tukola. 

The centre column was composed of four com- 
panies of the Pioneers under Colonel Sir B. Bromhead, 
and was to advance straight up the road to the Tukola, 
timing its advance so as to arrive at the enemies' posi- 
tion at the same time as the left or main column. 

The left or main column of attack, under General 
Graham himself, was composed of four guns 9-1 R.A. 
under Major Keith, C, E, and H Companies, with 
headquarters of Derbyshire Regiment, under Lieut- 
Colonel McCleverty, and six companies of the 2nd 1st 
Gurkhas under Colonel Rogers. This column crossed 
the main Gnatong valley> and ascended on the right 
side of it so as to gain a high ridge running towards 
the Tukola, and almost on the same level as it, and 
from which a position could be gained enfilading the 
OTeater part of the Thibetan wall from Tukola to the 
remberingo saddle. This column had the longest 
distance to travel. 

In order to describe the movements of the different 

columns, we will take them consecutively, as they all 

moved out from the fort simultaneously at 8.30 a.m. 

The baggage was left to be loaded by the men left 

G 



82 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

behind to guard the Gnatong fort, consisting of two 
companies Pioneers and a small guard of Derbys and 
Gurkhas under Major Goldney, with directions for it 
to follow on towards the Jelapla when sent for. 

The right column had about the shortest route 
to traverse, and they reached the saddle where they 
had directions to halt at about ten a.m, the two 
7-pounders under Lieutenant Tytler of the Pioneers 
coming into action, and being the first shots fired 
from our side. Their fire was directed against the 
Thibetan sangars down the main Gnatong valley, and 
excellent practice was made, the shells soon causing 
the Thibetans to evacuate that position, and retire 
towards their wall on the Pemberingo saddle. A few 
long range volleys from a section of G Company 
Derbys hastening their movement. 

The mist came on very thick at this time, with a 
slight drizzle, obscuring all view to within a few 
hundred yards, and a hmt of about an hour had to be 
made, waiting impatiently for orders, and longing for 
the clouds to liit and enable us to see what was 
going on. 

The right column could plainly hear the other 
two columns engaged across the valley, from the 
continuous roar of firing and howls of the Thibetans 
in the direction of the Tukola, some 2000 yards off*. 
At about eleven a.m. some Thibetans were observed 
firing at us from some rocks on the right, and Captain 
Wylly and the right half of G Company were 
directed to turn them out. This thejr quickly did, 
and got in a few volleys at them with good effect 
as they retired towards Pemberingo. At about 11.30 
it began to clear, and the enemy could be seen retiring 
from their position. The other two columns were in 
possession of the Tukola, and advancing, part towards 
the Nimla and part towards the Pemberingo, pouring 
in volley after volley on the retreating foe. Major 
Halkett now gave the order to advance, so a descent 
was made into the Gnatong valley, and the path 



FLIGHT OF THIBETANS. 83 

leading to the Pemberingo found. The Pemberingo 
saddle was reached at 12.30, a good many stragglers 
of the enemy being picked off on the way. There 
were a ffreat many dead and wounded at the Pember- 
ingo saddle, and Lieutenant Iggulden captured a fine 
pony, evidently from its trappings belonging to a 
chief of some note. At about 1.30 the centre column 
of the Pioneers arrived at the Pemberingo saddle, as 
they had orders to watch the Pemberingo Pass, 
having left the main body at the Nimla. Orders 
at the same time arrived for G Company Derbyshire 
to join the main body at the foot of the Jelapla with 
all speed, which it accordingly did. 

The centre column, under Colonel Sir B. Bromhead, 
advanced up the main road to the Tukola, and having 
the easiest route to go by, they soon cleared off the 
advanced skirmishers of the Thibetans on their left 
front, and feeling their way cautiously through the 
mist and clouds, became engaged opposite the wall on 
the Tukola at about 10.15 a.m. The Thibetans 
evidently expected the main attack to be made by 
the centre column, as they had some four or five 
cannons or jingalls posted on their wall on the Tukola. 
The fire of these was soon silenced by the Pioneers, 
who fired volleys, and a further advance being made 
to within three hundred yards of the Tukola, a 
heavy independent fire was opened on the wavering 
Thibetans, and the Gurkhas arriving at the same 
time on the left along the ridge joining the Tukola, 
the wall was charged and taken. 

The Thibetans now fled in all directions. The 
Pioneers, leading, went straight on. towards the Nimla, 
accompanied by some Gurkhas, followed by the three 
companies Derbyshire Regiment and four guns of the 
9-1 R.A. The remainder of the Gurkhas, some four 
companies, followed the wall towards Mount Paul and 
the Pemberingo, whither a large number of the 
Thibetans had retreated. 

Colonel Sir B. Bromhead was as usual leading on 



84 THE SIKKM CAMPAIGN. 

his men with his accustomed recklessness and bravery, 
and being mounted on a good hill pony, was first over 
the Tukola, and soon some way ahead of his corps, 
when he saw three Thibetans flying along the road in 
front of him. He piu^ued and overtook them, calling 
on them to surrenaer, and got off his pony to make 
one of them a prisoner, two Gurkhas having come up 
and caught the other two ; when the Thibetan, seeing 
that Colonel Bromhead had not drawn his sword or 
revolver, suddenly drew his own sword, and slashed 
at him, nearly severing his right hand above the 
wrist, stabbed him in the groin, and inflicted a third 
severe cut on the left elbow. The Thibetan was 
bayoneted almost immediately by a Gurkha arriving 
on the scene. All were extremely distressed at the 
frightful injuries to Colonel Bromhead, who had been 
such a good friend to the Derbys, and was the most 
popular man in the camp, and much loved by alL 
The Pioneers, who had pursued as far as the Mmla, 
received orders to return by the ridge over Mount 
Paul to the Pemberingo saddle, and there to join the 
other two companies and watch the Pemberingo in 
case of a counter attack from that direction, whilst 
the assault was delivered on the Jelapla Pass. This 
was done, and joining their two other companies and 
two guns they bivouacked for the night near Mount 
Paul, without further active operations for that day. 

The left and main column proceeded up a spur on 
the left of the lower camp, the Gurkhas m advance, 
followed by the guns ana C, E, and H companies 
Derbyshire Regiment. They had a steep climb of 
1500 feet before they gainea the heights above, from 
which an advance could be made on the* Tukola. 
Having gained the top, going was comparatively easy 
for some 1200 yards to the Tukola Pass. They were 
not lonff in covering this, and the Gurkhas on gaining 
sight of the Tukola, and hearing the Pioneers below 
them firing at it, after pouring in a few volleys, 
charged the wall simultaneously with the Pioneers. 



FINAL ROUT. 



85 



They then followed the wall towards Mount Patil and 
the Pembcringo, where they gained on the Thibetans, 
and got to close quarters with them, doing great 
execution and killing over 2Q0 of them^ pui-sued them 
into the valley below. 

Two of our guns, on reaching Tukola, took up a 
position on the left of it, and fired a few rounds on 
the retiring enemy ; the other two guns and Derby- 
shire Regiment, with the General and headquarters 
staff, continuing on to the Nimla, where the Derbys 
poured in volleys on the flying enemy wherever seen. 

At this phase of the action, the enemy being every- 
where in retreat, the troops were reformed for an 
attack on the Jelapla Pass, where, if the enemy meant 
standing, we might expect the stiflest fighting to 
occur. 

The Derbyshires now formed the advance party, 
followed by the guns and Gurklias, and an advance 
was made to Kupup, at the mouth of the gorge leading 
to the Jelapla Pass. A slight halt was made here to 
give time for the Gurkhas to come up, and dispositions 
for the attack on the pass made. 

The Derbyshire Regiment were to form for attack 
on the left side of the Jelapla stream, with the 
Gurkhas on the right of it with their own supports 
and reserve ; two gnns being posted on a spur 
running from the right of the gorge and commanding 
a good view of the lower and middle walls, the other 
two guns being pasted towards the centre of the 
gorge, and looking further up towards the top of 
the pass. 

At first the enemy seemed inclined to make a 
stand, and opened fire on us with their cannon and 
match-locks from the lower walls, and the heights on 
our left. When, however, our guns opened fire, and 
they saw us steadily advancing in a long line across 
the valley, their hearts failed them, and they fled pell 
mell up the valley and over the pass, leaving all their 
camp standing. Our guns sent shell and shrapnel 



86 THE SIKKDI CAMPAIGN. 

screaming up the frowning goi^ against the first and 
second wall, and the booming of the guns and bursting 
of the shells, with their accompanying reverberation 
and echoes up the stupendous bare rwsky mountains, 
must have struck terror into the Thioetan hordes. 
Their defeat was now complete, and they never gave 
us a chance of getting near them, but fled over the 
pass as fast as their legs could carry them, and faster 
than ours could follow. At 3.30 p.m. we had gained 
the lower wall and camp ; E and H Companies being 
extended, forming the fighting line, supported by C 
and G in reserve. The Gurkhas were similarly 
extended on our left. 

After taking the lower wall, behind which we 
found some 100 tents and a lot of bag^ge, the 
advance was continued against the second line of 
san^ars. The road so far had been of a fairly easy 
gradient, but just before reaching the second line of 
fortifications, it ascended sharply up a steep cliff of a 
couple of hundred feet in height with a gradient of 
one in three, and this would have been an exceedingly 
awkward place to have attacked in the face of any 
opposition, as the front up which a passage was 
possible was very constricted. However, the enemy 
were thoroughly cowed, and with the exception of a 
few wounded Thibetans, not a soul was seen. Here 
were also found about 100 tents, with more baggage 
and provisions. 

The road from this to the top of the pass, 14,390 
feet high, was easy and open. The pass being cleared, 
a halt was made a little further on in a sheltered 
hollow, and preparations made to bivouac for the night, 
as evening was coming on apace, it being six p.m. 
A third Thibetan encampment was then discovered, 
which was not previously known of, being hidden 
from view by a shoulder of the mountain ; and being 
near the top of the pass, seemed to be the main 
Thibetan camp, contaming about 150 tents, fresh 
meat, provisions, clothing, and cooking utensils, &c. 



BIVOUAC ON THE JALEP-LA. 87 

We managed to collect a little fuel for a fire before 
nightfall, and waited, tired out and done to a turn, 
af ^r ten hours climbing and fighting, for our baggage 
to come up. 

Through some mistake of a signaller in rear, and 
the transport officer having been galloping about 
with the General, watching the fight, the baggage did 
not arrive till two a.m., putting the troops to very ffreat 
discomfort and inconvenience, as in the meanwhile it 
had come on to drizzle and sleet, and it is no joke 
bivouacking in the open, or under a cold rock, at an 
elevation of getting on for 15,000 feet, in freezing wind 
and sleet, with nothing but a khaki coat to protect one. 

Most of us were so thoroughly tired out, that we 
lay down and were asleep in five minutes, and 
although we had only about half-an-hour's sleep 
before the cold woke us, the wonderful air of these 
altitudes, and being inured to hardship, we woke 
somewhat refreshed and were able to summon 
strength to go on to the Thibetan camp above us, 
and bring down what tents, blankets, and sheep skins 
we could find, in. which we wrapped oiu^elves and 
laid ourselves down to a well earned rest. We were 
thus enabled to get some sleep and prepare ourselves 
for the morrow, though food we had none. I have 
once before mentioned that the Thibetan is a filthy 
beast, and on waking the next morning we found 
ourselves covered with lice from the skins and blankets 
we had wrapped ourselves in, and for the next two days, 
until we were able to boil oiu: clothes and disinfect our 
hair, we had an unpleasant and scratchy time of it. 

September 25th. — ^The morning broke clear, crisp, 
and frosty, and we were not long in getting some hot 
cocoa and a comfortable breakfast, as we were all 
famishingly himgry. The mules had arrived in the 
small hours of the morning, and the foresight of the 
mess president. Lieutenant Iggulden, was duly appre- 
ciated by the Derby and other officers at the good 
cheer and provender forthcoming. For whatever 



88 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

discomforts we had to undergo, and they were many, 
the Derbyshire Regiment always managed to have a 
good mess going at which to entertain their friends. 

Feeling much refreshed, and thankful that the 
prospect of the day's march did not lead up hill, we 
made a start at eight a.m., our objective being the town 
of Rinchingong at the bottom of the Chumbi valley, 
some eight miles off. C Company of the Derbys, 
under Captain Godley, formed the advanced guard, 
followed by G, H, and E Companies, four guns 9-1 
RA., and six companies of the 2nd-lst Gurkhas. 

The road to the top of the pass was easy, and on 
reaching the summit, 14,390 feet high, we found the 
wall built by the Thibetans along it to be a flimsy 
affair, and nothing like as subste-ntial as the lower 
ones. 

• We are now at an altitude probably never before 
attained by any body of British soldiers, and a short 
halt of a few minutes was made to give us breath 
after the short climb, and to admire the superb view 
laid before us. 

Looking north towards Thibet the panorama of 
valley and mountain was grand in the extreme. The 
atmosphere was beautifully transparent, and the 
bright, grassy valleys of Chumbi, with a glistening 
range of dazzling snow beyond, in the middle of which 
towered, the upright lordly cone of Chumalari, 26,000 
feet high, backed by a sky of the purest azure, formed 
a view not to be surpassed in all the lovely scenes 
of nature's landscapes. 

Sterner matters had, however, to be attended to, 
and the order to advance soon distracted our attention 
from the impressive scene before us. Our ej^^es were 
required for other uses than that of admiring the 
beauty of nature. The path became rough and stony, 
and we were soon descending like an immense 
caterpillar in single file down the steep zig-zag path 
across the frontier of Thibet, and into the forbidden 
land. There was a small deep black mountain lake 



INVASION OF THIBET. 89 

some few hundred feet below the summit of the pass, 
on reaching which the road was fairly level for a bit, 
and then again made a very rapid descent to the 
stream in the valley beneath. 

There was plenty of evidence that parties of 
flying Thibetans were immediately in front of us. 
Smouldering fires and cooking utensils were found by 
the road side, and now and again an occasional shot 
by C Company's scouts would hurry on some fugitive 
who had stayed too long, two or three of them being 
killed. They, however, seemed to be only stragglers, 
as no resistance was oiBTered to our march. 

Our progress was necessarily slow, as, after 
descending some 1500 feet, the road entered a forest 
and the path was bad, besides which caution had to 
be observed to prevent the chance of falling into an 
ambush. 

On nearing Binchingong, the road crossed and 
recrossed the stream several times, and we found the 
bridges over it had been destroyed, and had to cross 
as best we could, by a log or single plank, whilst the 
mules in rear had to ford. 

Approaching Rinchingong, after a descent of some 
5000 leet, several Thibetans were seen coming down a 
spur on the opposite side of the valley, apparently 
from the direction of Pemberingo, whilst a lew more 
were observed on our side. These latter i^^re^soon 
cleared off, and on fire being opened on those on the 
opposite side of the valley, they turned aside to the 
other direction, fleeing into Bhutan. 

The outskirts of Rinchingong village were reached 
at 2.30 p.m., and the village itself was charged with 
fixed bayonets by the two leading companies of the 
Derbyshire Regiment, as it was thought it might be 
occupied by the enemy. No oppositiofi was, however, 
offered, and with the exception of several wounded, 
and an old woman, the village was deserted. 

We found the village of Rinchingong to consist of 
about twenty very substantial two-storeyed houses. 



90 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

well built of stone and plaster, with large and clean 
rooms, not at all resembling the ordinary native mud 
village of India. There were also several other houses 
on the other side of the rapid river Mochu, the bridge 
over which had been destroyed. The whole place had a 
well-to-do look, which was not belied by the contents 
of the houses and their surroundings. Fields of 
turnips, neat little ricks of grain, several cows with 
calves, and a few ponies were among the things 
first observed, whilst the bright and smiling valley of 
Chumbi, with the rushing river Mochu flowing down 
it, formed a pleasant contrast to the dank country on 
our side of the Jelapla. 

The troops were billeted off* in the different houses, 
which we were at liberty to loot, and not a little 
curious spoil was obtained. We found a large 
quantity of arms, gunpowder, and other munitions of 
war about, and Lieutenant Temple with H Company 
discovered a handsome 6-pounder brass cannon, 
since presented to the Battalion by Lord Curzon, 
Viceroy of India. There were many other curious 
objects discovered, and if we could only have trans- 
ported all we found with us, we should not have 
done badly. 

There were three or four Chinese officials on the 
opposite side of the river, who opened communica- 
tion with us, and said they had been sent by the 
Chinese Amba or Resident at Lhassa to stop the fight. 
Fortunately for us their mediations had been of no 
avail with the pig-headed Lamas, or else they had 
arrived too late. They notified that the Chinese 
Amba had left Lhassa, and was on his way here, 
and should arrive in about a fortnight, when the pre- 
liminaries of peace should be at last definitely settled. 

The village was put in a state of defence, 
picquets being placed round it to guard against a 
possible surprise, E Company taking the south and 
east side, with the Gurkhas on the north and west. 
I think we found our quarters that night the most 



m THE CHTJMBI VALLEY. 



01 



comfortable we have occupied since staHing on the 
expedition, and the troopa enjoyed a hearty meal and 
a perfect night'a rest on good clean straw, with a 
soxmd roof over their heads, and in a warmer and 
drier climate than we have experienced for some time. 
In fact no one now wonders at the Rajah of Sikkim's 
preference to hving in this valley to residing in his 
own territory. 

September 26. — After a mast refreshing night's 
sleep we were up at daybreak, and having packed our 
kita and breakfasted, started at nine a.m, to march to 
Chumbi, G Company forming the advance guard. 

Our baggage was sent back about two miles 
towards the Jelapla, to a place where we intended to 
return and bivouac for the night, though we all 
wondered why, having got to such good quarters, we 
were to bolt back to Gnatong again. The TOad to 
Chumhi lay along the bottom of the valley, and was 
close to the river, and level all the way. The 
weather was lovely, the scenery perfect, and every 
one felt in the highest of spirits. Marching along 
the flat seemed almost like treading on air, after 
toiUng up and down rugged and precipitous mountain 
Bides. 

After going about a mile we met the Chinese 
Envoys bearing a white flag. They had crossed the 
river by a bridge higher up, and had come round for 
an interview. Nothmg of impoi^tance occurred during 
the march, A couple of armed Thibetans were shot 
as they bolted out of a village half-way, and a few 
armed men were seen on the other side of the river. 
On nearing Chumbi we were met by the Rajah's 
Diwan, or Prime Minister, who informed us that the 
Rajah s mother was in tlie palace. He gave no news 
of the Rajali, although we had heard that he had 
been in Rinchingong forty-eight hours before. He 
said the Thibetan rout had l^en complete, and that 
2000 of them had fled towards Phari as hard as they 
could go immediately after the battle. 



92 THE SIKKDC CAMPAIGN. 

We found the Bajah's palace at Chumbi to be a 
large three-storeyed rambliiig building, situated dose 
to the right bank of the Mochu, ^mich was here 
panned by a bridge built on the cantilever system. 
The palace walls were surrounded by a row of 
vertically placed prayer wheels, and these ingenious 
contrivances were placed at every convenient spot, so 
that the passer-by might give them a twist without 
trouble, and so add a few thousand extra prayers to 
his own or somebody else's credit 

The troops were drawn up outside the palace, and 
the General and staff and one or two officers entered 
the building, and were received by the Dowager Bani 
and her two grandchildren in state. The original idea 
in marching to Chumbi had been to loot and bum the 
Bajah's palace, but the Political Officer begged that 
this might be foregone and the Bajah given another 
chance to come in, as his mother-in-law and children 
were there with all their people. One could nOt help 
admiring the old lady for her pluck in remaining to 
meet conquering troops, and of whom she could have 
known nothing, and from whom, according to her 
countrymen's usage, little courtesy might be expected. 
The Rani received us sitting, in a large room or 
private chapel, fitted up with a shrine at one end of 
it, gorgeously painted, and got up with embroidered 
scrolls, with a large brass image of Bhudda in the 
centre of it. The Rani herself was a middle-aged 
woman, with a bright and cheerful face, and was also 
wonderfully arrayed, having on a remarkable head- 
dress, going some two and a half feet over her head, 
in the shape of a large horse collar, and studded with 
pearls, corals, and very handsome turquoise, a truly 
wonderful work of art, and somewhat of a burden to 
carry on one's head for any length of time. The Rani 
was about forty-five years of age, and had evidently 
been good-looking when young. She seemed of a 
cheerful disposition, and, accepting the destiny of fate, 
did not appear to mind in the sli^test our ransacking 



LAST NIGHT EST THIBET. 93 

the palace for the Bajah's papers, laughing and 
cracking jokes with her attendants, whilst ever and 
anon she took a sip of the " Craythur," or something 
uncommonly like it, to keep her spirits up. She 
hospitably handed round some of this liquor in 
beautiful small china cups ; on tasting it we found it 
to be a strongish fiery spirit, not unpleasant to the 
taste, partaking somewhat of the character of raw 
whisky. We took away all the papers belonging to 
the Rajah which were likely to be of interest, 
and retired outside the palace, much regretting we 
could not loot the place, which was rich with 
valuable and curious china, costly arms, and all sorts 
of quaint curiosities. Word was left for the Rajah to 
report himself in person at Gnatong during the next 
four days, or it would go badly with him. We have 
not much doubt that he was hidden away in the 
palace or its vicinity, and that had we burnt the 
palace he would have shown up. With a sigh at 
what might have been, we commenced our return 
march, and reached Rinchingong again at two p.m. 

A halt was made here for a short time, after 
which the whole of the troops, with the exception of 
G Company Derbys, went on to their camping ground, 
two miles towards the Jelapla. G Company under 
Captain Wylly remained behind, partly as an escort 
to Mr. Paul, the Political Officer, who wished to have 
a further interview with the Chinese officials, and 
also to destroy several tons of gunpowder which were 
unearthed. We emptied some 300 boxes of gun- 
powder into the river, and Mr. Paul having finished 
his business, we reached our bivouac at about 5.30 p.m., 
bringing along as much loot as we could carry and 
four captured ponies. 

It came on to rain at six p.m. and we were very 
disgusted at leaving Rinchingong, where the troops 
would have liked to have stayed for some time, or 
until peace was concluded. However, we rigged up 
what shelter we could with waterproof sheete slung 



94 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

over a pole on two forked sticks, which made a very 
respectable Tente D'Abri, and we all spent a tolerably 
comfortable night notwithstanding the drizzle. G 
Company was on night picquet, and they captured 
one Thibetan, allowing several others to escape, as 
they did not wish to alarm the camp by firing on 
them. 

September 27th. A damp morning with a cold 
drizzle, and it was in no amiable mood that we turned 
out at daybreak, and prepared for the stiiBT march 
back to Gnatong, with a rise of 5000 feet in the first 
few miles of it over an execrable road. However, 
our worthy commander had decided that a long stay 
at Binchingong was inadvisable, and so a start was 
made at 6 a.m., G Company, Derbyshire Regiment, 
forming the rear guard. The broken bridges over 
the stream had been repaired by the invaluable 
Pioneers, so we got along at a respectable pace, 
though the road was awiul in places for loaded 
mules over the steep places, and the rear guard had 
an arduous day of it. After seven hours' steady 
marching we neared the top of the pass, and reach^ 
the summit at about two p.m. We f oimd it bitterly 
cold, with sleet falling, and a cutting wind blowing. 

It had been intended to bivouac on the pass, but 
the General, finding we had surmounted it so much 
earlier than was expected, and it being the universal 
wish of every one, aetermined to push on to Gnatong 
that day, ana accordingly when G Company, the rear 
guard, arrived at the top of the pass, the other troops 
had proceeded on. Orders had been left for the rear 
guard to follow after seeing all the baggage over the 
pass, and if necessary to bivouac on the pass, should 
they be unable to get on that night, not a pleasant 
prospect, as it continued to sleet, and cold winds chilled 
our very marrow. 

However, by five p.m. all the baggage had got well 
on its way, and G Company was enabled to follow on 
to Gnatong, where it arrived some three hours after 



BACK AT GNATONG. 95 

dark, stumbling and hobbling over the stony path in 
the dark, and tired to death, with aching feet and 
limbs, after fourteen hours marching over rocks, and 
loading and adjusting packs on tired mules. 

We were too done up to do anything more than to 
take off our accoutrements and lie down to sleep like 
inanimate beings till late the next day, when we 
awoke refreshed and ravenously hungry. 

Such was the capture of the Jelapla rass and final 
dispersal of the Thibetan Army from the border of our 
frontier. The advisability of immediately returning 
to Gnatong, as we did, to await further developments 
was open to much doubt, and the consensus of opinion 
at the time was dead against it. Previous experience 
had shown us that the Thibetans regarded our 
remaining passively at Gnatong as a sign of fear 
or weakness on our part, and one would have thought 
that our foes could much more quickly be brought to 
their senses by an occupation of their territory, and if 
necessary a further advance into it to the town of 
Phari, than remaining passively cooped up in Gnatong 
to await the arrival of the Chinese and Thibetans, to 
come in at their own pleasure or not as it suited 
them. 

However, here we were back again in the old spot, 
without even the excitement of a possible enemy for 
some time at least. The Thibetans had no doubt bad 
a lesson, which would last them for the next fifty 
years, as their losses must have been about 1500 
killed and wounded, about 450 of whom were left 
dead on the field. We heard many years afterwards, 
when Major Bower of the I7th B.C. travelled from 
India, through Thibet, to China, that the Thibetans 
still remembered their defeat at Gnatong, where they 
said their losses had amounted to 1800 men, and they 
were proportionately afraid of interfering with a 
white man accordingly, and gave Major Bower and 
his party a respectful passage through their part of 
the country. 



CHAPTER rx. 



Best after our fatigue — ^Autumn at Gnatoiig — ^Arrival of the 
Bajah of Siiddm — Cake competition — Preparations to 
winter at Gnatong--Skating — ^Hat building — ^Arrival of 
Chinese Amban — Christmas festivities — ^The Connaught 
Bangers relieve the Derbys at Gnatong — Proceed to 
quarters- at Jubbulpore — Inspection by his Excellency 
the Commander-in-Chiefj Sir Frederick Boberts^ G.C.B. — 
Condiision. 



The excitement of the prospect of further fighting 
being over, we are now enabled to rest somewhat after 
our recent fatigues, and the duties of day and night 
picquets are not so onerous. The native troops are 
busy burying the dead, and we have about 180 
Thibetan prisoners on our hands, in addition to many 
wounded. A great trade in loot goes on, and many 
of the swords, guns, and illuminated scrolls captured 
at Rinchingong are veiy handsome. The sawyers 
and coolies who followed the troops after the battle 
must have got a great deal of loot, as the dead were 
found stripped of even their clothes on our return 
from Chumbi. 

The monsoon seems to be at last over, and the 
days and nights are clear and crisp, and there is a 
frost at night, with a distinctly autumnal feeling in 
the air. Very much pleasanter than the months of 
wet and damp we have passed through. Our Colonel 
and Quartermaster, Lieut-Colonel McCleverty and 
Lieutenant Fox, have to be sent down to Darjeeling, 
both having been far from fit since their arrival at 
Gnatong. We have the trouble of pulling down the 
walls the Thibetans have built in the Jelapla and 
Pemberingo Passes, and destroying their fortifications. 
We are also much, exercised w£tt they have done 



APPROACH OF WINTER. 97 

with their guns, which it is suspected they must 
have abandoned, and probably thrown down some 
precipice or into one of the mountain tarns. All 
search for them is, however, futile, and beyond the 
gun captured in Rinchingong by H Company, and a 
jingall, or wall piece, also found by H Company, none 
other of their guns are discovered. 

On the 1st of October there was a slight fall of 
snow on the Tukola, which looks like the approach of 
winter. On the 2nd October the JRajah of Sikkim 
came in with a small following. He is a repulsive- 
looking man with a hare-lip, and looked very much 
ashamed of himself. He is to be sent back to 
Tumlong, his capital, where he will be placed under 
surveillance. 

On the 4th October the oflScers of the Derbyshire 
Regiment gave a big dinner to the General and staff 
and heads of departments at their mess hut, to 
celebrate the victory. It was a great success. The 
mess hut was gorgeously decorated with loot, flowers, 
trophies of arms, &c., whilst the mess president's 
catering and the Darjeeling Club champagne were 
undeniable. Many were the right good songs and 
merry jests before we broke up in the small hours 
of the morning. We now have irequent football and 
sports to amuse the men, and a great rifle meeting is 
in contemplation. Camp-fire sing-songs are of weekly 
occurrence, and the rain having ceased, life is more 
enjoyable than formerly. Leave to Darjeeling is 
talked of, and we are managing to make the 
remainder of our stay here as pleasant as possible. 

The cake competition mentioned in a previous 
chapter afforded us a good deal of amusement, and 
was quite a success. There were many cakes sent up, 
an altemoon was set apart, and all the oflScers of 
the force were invited to come and vote on the merits 
of the cakes. Where all were so good, it was hard to 
decide which should get the prize, but eventually it 
was settled to every one's satisfaction which were the 
H 



98 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

three best cakes, and two extra prizes were given on 
account of the imexpected number of cakes that 
arrived. On sending in the numbers into Darjeeling 
to find out who the fair prize winners were, it was 
discovered that the first prize had been won by a 
most popular lady in the regiment, which was quite 
as it ought to have been, and a most popular win. 
Our cake competition proved such a success, that the 
headquarters staff thought that they would go one 
better, and offered a diamond ring for the best hamper 
sent up. After long days of anxious waiting, one 
hamper was said to have arrived, but who the solitary 
competitor was, what the contents of the hamper 
were, and whether she ever got her diamond ring, 
are questions that are still waiting for an authentic 



reply. 



)n the 11th of October the three companies of the 
Derbys at Darjeeling returned to Dum Dum. When 
the headquarters companies at Gnatong will return 
-to India is still a matter for conjecture. In the 
meantime, signs of Mrinter at Gnatong are fast 
coming on, and preparations for improving the 
hutting and making it of a more substential 
form are going on apace. Two engineer officers 
have been ordered up. Captain Stanton and 
Lieutenant Sandbach, and the Derbys are hard at 
work building substantial huts with double plank 
sides filled with moss, and stone ends with fire places. 

We have hard frost every night, ana the 
inundation is nightly frozen, and it is expected we 
shall soon have skating, and anxious inquiries are 
made as to where skates are obtainable in India. 
One of our officers telegraphed to Calcutta for a pair, 
and in due course received by post, to his disappoint- 
ment and disgust, a pair of roller skates, not quite 
the article he required. 

The long- looked -for arrival of the Chinese 
Amban has again been postponed, and we wonder 
when he will really come. In the meantime the 



SNOW AND ICE. 99 

road from Darjeeling to Gnatong has been vastly 
improved by the Public Works Department, and a 
few of us are able to ride our loot-ponies into 
Darjeeling for a ten days' change. 

On the 12th November Major Maxwell arrived 
from Darjeeling to take over command of the 
regiment, Lieutenant -Colonel McCleverty having 
been very ill indeed in hospital. Skating is now a 
great source of amusement, and is in fidl swing, as 
we get twenty degrees of frost nightly. Several pairs 
of skates have been obtained, and the handy Pioneers 
have improvised several more from the backs of 
Thibetan sword blades. Tommy and Jack Sepoy 
may be seen daily disporting themselves on the ice, 
to the wonderment of the native of Sikkim and the 
Bhutia coolie. Some of the small lakes in the 
Jelapla Pass are frozen over like polished glass, 
and the skating on them is as good as could be 
wished for. 

We are all very glad to hear that Colonel 
Bromhead, who had been so badly wounded in the 
last fight, is progressing most favourably, though he 
had to have one hand amputated and the bone in the 
elbow joint of the other arm removed, besides having 
a third dangerous wound in his groin. 

Mr. Ney Elias, another Political Officer, arrives at 
Gnatong to assist to conduct the pending negotia- 
tions with the Chinese Amba, from whom news was 
received that he had left Lhassa on November 1st, 
and should arrive at Gnatong about the middle of 
December. Subsequently news was received by two 
Chinese emissaries who arrived at Gnatong on 
November 24th, saying the Amba had left Lhassa 
on the 19 th November, arriving at Giantze, ten 
marches off, on the 24th November, which would 
make Lhassa only some sixteen marches off, or 
considerably less than most people thought. 

November 25th to 30th. — ^The nights are now 
getting exceedingly cold, with twenty-five to thirty 



100 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

degrees of frost, and all oiir ink, milk, beer, &c., is 
frozen to a solid block in the mornings. 

News is received that we are to l^ relieved by the 
88th Connauffht Rangers, though the date is not as 
yet fixed. We do not envy them, as the rigours and 
discomforts of winter at Gnatong, from our experience 
in March and April, promise to be anythmg but 
pleasant. 

The Pioneers returned to Padong on the 4th 
December, and the gims and headquarters of the 
Gurkhas returned to Rhenok on 8th and 10th 
December. On 12th December A Company Derby s, 
under Captain Etheridge, arrive from Padong, and 
there only remain as a garrison to Gnatong the five 
companies Derbyshire Regiment, two companies 
Gurkhas, and some artificers of the 32nd Pioneers. 

The native troops have begun to suffer from the 
hardships of the climate, and there was a good deal of 
bronchitis and lung complaint amount them. Our 
men have been wonderiully fit, and the cold and 
bracing climate of these lofty altitudes had agreed 
with them extremely well ; our losses from disease had 
been almost nil. We have taken over charge of the 
two small mountain guns from the Pioneers, and now 
have an expert gun detachment under Lieutenant 
Lewame, who are uncommonly smart in handling 
their guns, and make excellent practice. 

December 16th to 20th.— Every one is now looking 
forward to the [arrival of the Amba. Parties (3 
Chinese have been arriving daily, and on 19th 
December some 200 Thibetan coolies arrived bringing 
part of his camp, and commenced pitching it on the 
opposite side of the main Gnatong valley. Some of 
the tents are very picturesque and quaint, with neat 
designs in red and blue worked on them. The round 
tents called "Kebitska" are very roomy and com- 
fortable when pitched, having no centre pole, being 
pitched on a sort of trellis- work frame. 

Early on the morning of December 21st, Chinese 



THE AMBA ARRmES. 



101 



soldiers and Thibetan coolies, with quantities of 
baggage, came streaming over the Tukola Pass, to the 
Amba'a camp, and about nine a.m, the Amba's 
secretary and adjutant, each with an escort with flags 
and guns, aiTived, and notified to Mr. Paul, the 
PoHtical, that the long-looked for Amba himself 
would arrive about two p.m. The Chinese seemed an 
intelligent lot of men, cleaner, better dressed, and of 
a superior type to the Thibetans. They were much 
surprised at the skating going on, and also at looking 
at a wateh, and through a telescope. 

The arrival of the Amba at about 2.30 p.m. was 
a most picturesque and theatrical scene. He was 
preceded by a guard of Chinese soldiers mounted on 
mules, wearing a red uniform and armed with a kind 
of halberd, with triangular-shaped, multi coloured 
flags, with strange devices on them, and the effect 
of the procession winding down the Tukola Pass, in 
the bright sun, backed by the snow-clad mountains 
was very striking, Tlie Amba himself was canried 
in a green sedan chair, lined throughout with silver 
fox skins and carried by about a dozen bearers, 
wMlst botli before and behind the chair were 
long drag ropes, to which w^ere harnessed some 
sixty coolies to assist in canying him up the steep 
hills. 

On nearing his camp he was met by a guai'd of 
honour of Gurkhas under a native officer, and a 
salute of three gims from the fort above. He had also 
a band of his own with him, who blew blasts from long 
copper trumpets, accompanied by an instrument some- 
what resembling in sound a bag-pipe. A hut had been 
prepared for him in his camp, and he was there met at 
the entrance by a sergeant s guard of the Derbys and 
the Political Officer. The Amba is a middle-aged man 
somewhat inclined to corpulency. Refreshments of 
tea, champagne, &c., were provided for him, and the 
usual ceremonies of introduction and inquiries after 
his health, and the comforts of his journey, having 




102 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

been gone through, onr people retired to the fort, 
leaving the Great Man to settle down in his own 
camp. 

The Amba's camp has now a very picturesque 
appearance, looking very gay, with over a hundred 
multicoloured and quaint - shaped tents, whilst the 
number of his followers must be over 1000, with 600 
mules. 

On the following day, the 21st December, the 
Amba paid a return visit in state, accompanied by a 
salute fired by bombs being exploded, and also by his 
band and a pretty-looking young boy of about twelve 
years old, who is always in constant attendance. 

On the 24th Mr. Durand, C.S.I., Foreign Secretary 
to the Government of India, arrives, and negotiations 
are opened and daily consultations take place between 
our oflScials and the Chinese in the old mess house of 
the Gurkhas. The progress of these continuous 
negotiations is kept very dark by the Politicals, though 
two naughty men of one of our companies are said to 
have concealed themselves underneath the hollow 
floor of the mess hut and to have heard a good deal 
more than they were intended to. 

We spent Christmas Day in the time-honoured 
way, and a very merry time we had of it, notwith- 
standing our exile and the great distance and difference 
in surroundings between us and our friends and 
families. Anyhow, searsonable weather was not 
wanting, and great trouble had been expended in 

Sroviding the men with excellent dinners, washed 
own by capital beer obtained from Darjeeling. 
We have had great trouble in building the stone 
end walls of our new winter huts, as the frost cracks 
them, and down they tumble, in addition to which a 
sharp shock of earthquake took place on the 23rd 
December, which did a lot of aamage. However, 
by dint of much skill in building them up, and 
making large buttresses, they are at last made to 
stand up. 



NEW tear's festivities. 103 

We gave a dinner on New Year's Eve to all the 
oflScers at Gnatong, which turned out to be a very 
festive affair. 

In the New Year's honours Mr. Paul, the political 
officer, gets a C.I.E.,and the Tyndook Palgar is created 
a Rajah, for their exertions in the Sikkim campaign. 
We wonder what we soldiers, who have borne the 
brunt of the campaign, are to get out of it, as so far 
the only officer of the regiment who has been 
mentioned in General Gralmm's despatch on the 
action of the 24th September was Lieutenant- 
Colonel McCleverty, commanding the regiment. 
About January 12th there was a rumour that a 
good many Thibetans were again collecting in the 
Chumbi valley. On the Amba being questioned 
about it, and asked if they would again attack us, 
he replied, " No ! Do you think it likely that they 
will return to the top of the hill for the pleasure 
of being shot down?' 

Negotiations have, however, come to a dead lock, 
and the Amba has informed our Politicals that the 
Thibetans will not come to terms, unless we recognise 
their right to the suzerainty of Sikkim, which is, of 
course, impossible. So for the present things are as 
undecided as ever, and it is ten thousand pities we 
did not remain in the Chumbi valley, which would 
soon have brought the Thibetans to their senses. The 
policy of sitting still in warfare with savage tribes 
has never been, nor ever will be, of any go5i what- 
ever in settling disputes. 

On the 12ui January, 1889, a party of Chinese left 
for Rhenok, to see the Rushet river, which the 
Thibetans claim as their boundary. On passing 
Lingtu they remarked, " If the Thibetans were 
unable to stop you at a place like this, it was very 
little use their trying to do so anywhere else." 

On the 16th January a fall of snow lasting 
forty-eight hours altered the complexion of affairs 
considerably, and the Arctic pall which now stretchy 



104 THE SIKKIK CAMPAIGN. 

all around, above, and below us has settled down to 
stay for the next four or five months. 

Our sojourn at Gnatong is, however, fast drawing 
to a close, and after nearly a year of it, we shall step 
off down the hill with a light heart, to the warmth of 
the Indian plains and cantonment life at Jubbulpore. 

We have to dear the snow off the road to Lin|rtu 
to render it practicable, as there is now some five feet 
of it all over the hills in the vicinity of Gnatong. 

On the 6th February two officers of the 88th 
arrive to take over the fort and buildings, and on the 
8th February, 1889, 400 men of that regiment, with 
nine more officers, arrived to garrison the place and 
relieve us. 

On February 9th we marched out of Gnatong on 
our return to India, bidding farewell to ice-bound 
Gnatong with a glad heart. Silligori was reached on 
the 16th, and we found ourselves once again in canton- 
ments at Jubbulpore on the 22nd of February, some 
of the companies having completed almost a year 
at the front and experienced exceptionally hard and 
rough work. For it is fully acknowledged on all 
sides that this comparatively small campaign on the 
Thibetan frontier compares favourably, as regards 
actual hard work and hardship, with any since the 
Crimea. 

On the 23rd February, the day after marching 
into Jubbulpore, the Battalion was inspected by his 
Excellency the Commander-in-Chief in India, General 
Sir Frederick Roberts, G.C.B., K.C.S.I., the regiment 
turning out without a single absentee, in their 
campaigning khaki dress, and in the presence of the 
whole garrison. At the conclusion of the parade his 
Excellency, in the presence of the troops in garrison, 
thus addressed the regiment : — " Officers and men of 
the Derbyshire Regiment, I am very pleased to have 
this opportunity of inspecting you. 1 was not able 
to go as far as Gnatong the other day when I was in 
Sikkim, but from everybody I saw in Sikkim I heard 



RETURN TO QUARTERS. 105 

the most favourable reports of your behaviour — that 
you were cheerful imder great hardships, always 
ready for work, and very well conducted. This I 
heard wherever I went, and I am very glad to tell 
you so, and to congratulate Colonel McCTeverty and 
the Officers of the regiment on having such a well- 
behaved body of men under their command." 

This was a fitting conclusion to our .year's 
campaigning in the lofty altitudes of the Thibetan 
frontier. To receive the high praise of one of India's 
greatest commanders-in-chief was most gratifying to 
us all. Our experience during the Sikkim campaign 
had been unique, for it had never before fallen to the 
lot of British troops to undergo prolonged operations 
at an altitude of over 12,000 feet. The inseparable 
hardships of such a campaign in a most difficult 
country, with its cold in the winter months and 
excessive damp and rain in the summer months, 
cannot be overrated. They had been borne by the 
men with the gr«Bitest cheerfulness and patience, 
often under extremely trying circumstances, for it 
would be difficult to find in the annals of British 
warfare anything more tedious and trying than the 
months of enforced waiting we had to undergo on 
the dreary heights of Gnatong. 

This account of the history of the 2nd Battalion 
of the Derbyshire Regiment in the Sikkim Campaign 
is written irom a purely regimental point of view, 
being intended as a record and account of the doings 
of the Derbyshire Regiment only. Our comrades the 
native troops who served with us bore equally with 
ourselves the attendant fatigues and hardships of the 
campaign, especially that fine regiment the 32nd 
Pioneers, a regiment of Muzbee Sikhs, under that 
splendid old soldier Colonel Sir Benjamin Bromhead, 
who did invaluable work from beginning to end of the 
campaign; as also our gallant friends and comrades 
the 2nd Battalion 1st Gurkhas, imder Ldeut-Colonel 
Rogers, who fought alongside of us in their maiden 



106 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

fight at the final advance over the Jelapla, on the 
24th of September, and with whom we were again, 
ten years later, to renew our acquaintance ana be 
brigaded with in the Tirah Campaign. 

In the appendices will be found a nominal roll 
of the Officers and Sergeants of the Regiment who 
took part in the Sikkim Campaign, together with 
the oiJy despatch published by General Qraham on 
the operations. This despatch treats mainly with the 
final action of the 24th September, subsequent capture 
of the Jelapla Pass, and pursuit into Thibet. 

It was thought that a final despatch, dealing with 
the whole campaign, would have been published, and 
in which mention would have been made of the 
previous actions and nine months hardship endured 
by the troops ; but for some reason or other, although 
it is believed a final despatch vxis duly sent in to 
headquarters, it was never published to the world 
at large, which was certainly disappointing to the 
Officers of the force, who had spent the best part of a 
year at the front and borne the brimt of the hardships 
of the campaign from beginning to end. 



APPENDIX A. 



Roll of Officers, Colonr-SergeantH, and Bergennts who 
took part in the Sikkim Campaign. 

Lieutenant-Colonel J. McCleverty. 

Major T. M, Ma^cwell {did not receive the medal)* 

Major J. W. F. Hume. 

Captain H. C. Wylly, 

Captain P. C. Godley. 

Captain E, A. G. Gosset* 

Captain A. A. Etheridge (died in England in 1896). 

Lieutenant H. J* Bowman. 

Lieutenant L. A. M- Stopford (Adjutant), 

Lieutenant G. E. Temple. 

Lieutenant H. A. Iggulden. 

Lieutenant A. A. I. Heyinan. 

Lieutenant E. Granville fdied at Jubbulpore in 1892). ^^ w'^/H. 

Lieutenant 1. W« G. Eoy {did not receive the medal). ^---^ 

Lieutenant N. A. Lewarne (killed in Tirali Campaign, Nov., 1897). 

Lieutenant W, Fox (Quartermaster). 

No. 85 Colour- Sergreaat W. Heapy..,..., A Company. 

No. 747 Sergeant H. Taylor 

No. 2325 Sergeant J. Finn (no medal)..... ,» 

No, 865 Colour- Sergeant J. H. DorauB C Company. 

No. 833 Sergeant C. Johnson „ 

No. 795 Sergeant J. Milward... ,, 

No. 2375 Sergeant J. Hayirreen {no medal) „ 

No. 951 Golour-SergeAnt J. L. G. McKinnon , E Company. 

No. 1246 Sergeant J. Elliot 

No. 2839 Sergeant J. Parr „ 

No. 1268 Sergeant A. Smith...... 

No. 2483 Sergeant T. Wakefield , 

No. 1956 Colour-Sergeant T. Collina ....G Company. 

No. 2585 Sergeant K. Gray...... „ 

No. 745 Sergeant H. McCullough ....» j, 

No. 2619 Sergeant L. Seckington .,.....# n 

No. 2590 Sergeant W. Packer ,„. ,, 

No. 1053 Sergeant Windehank..... „ 

No. 1750 Sergeant L. Damon.... ,, 

No. 927 Colour-Sergeant D. Denihan .....H Company. 

No. 1897 Sergeant J. Fenton ,„. „ 

No. 2618 Sergeant J. Hegarty „ 

No. 4204 Sergeant J. Hicken , „ 

No. 1419 Sergeant ¥, Priestly « 

No. 2646 Sergeant D. Tansey ,..,....- „ 

No. 323 Sergeant W. Walters „ 

Fifteen officers and 472 non-commisBioned officers and men 
received the Indian Frontier medal, with clasp, for "Sikkim, 
1888." The medah were presented to the regiment by Brigadier- 
General O, Barnard, C.B., commanding the Nerbudda District, 
at a brigade parade, on 7th April, 180O. the two companies on 
detachment at Sanger receiving theirs on 9th April, 1890. 



Sf\ftk 



APPENDIX B. 

BEIGADIEE^ENERAL T. GRAHAM'S DESPATCH. 

GENERAL ORDERS. 

Military Dbpabtmbnt. 
Sinda, the 2nd November, 1888. 

Field Opbbations. 



No. 889. — ^His Exoellenoy the Viceroy and Govemor-Cteneral in 
Connoil is pleased to direct the publication of the subjoined letter 
from title Adjatant-Gbneral in India, submitting, under the orders 
of the Commander-in-Chief in India, a despatch from Brigadier- 
Qeneral T. Graham, commanding the Sikkim Field Force, 
reporting the particuliurs of his defeat of the Tibetan Army 
ill the neighbourhood of Gnathong, in Sikkim, on the 24th 
September, 1888, and the subsequent pursuit to the Chambi 
Timey. 

2. The Gbvemor-General in Coimcil entirely concurs in the 
approval expressed by the Commander-in-Chief of the excellent 
manner in which Brigadier-General Graham has exercised the 
command of the Sikkim Field Force throughout the operations 
in that coimtry, and especially in regard to the skill evinced by 
him in seizing the right moment for assuming the offensive, and 
the vigour and abiUty with which the attack was carried out, 
resulting in the complete defeat and dispersion of the enemy, 
with very small loss to the British troops. 

8. His Excellency in Council desires to convey the cordial 
acknowledgments of the Government of India to Brigadier- 
General Graham and the officers and troops under his command, 
whose conduct, not only throughout the operations but during 
the whole period of the exj^dition, under circumstances of 
unusual climatic severity, merits high comm^idation. 



From Major-General W. K, Elles, C.B., AdjutanUOeneral in India, to 
the Secretary to the Government of India, Military Department, — 
{No, 5570^1, dated Simla, lUh October, 1888). 

I have the honour, by direction of the Commander-in-Chief in 

India, to submit, for the informa- 

No. UU, dated 2nd October, tion of the Government of India, 

^*8. a despatch, as per margin, from 

Brigadier-General T. Grahiam, Com- 
manding the Sikkim Expeditionary Force, detailing the operations 



APPENDIX. 109 

between the 24th and 27th ultimo, whioh resulted in the capture 
of the passes north of Gnathong, leading into Tibet, and the 
complete defeat of the Tibetan forces and their expokion from 
the Sikkim State. 

2. During the months immediately preceding the action now 
described, and since the attack on the post of Gnathong by the 
Tibetans, active operations have been suspended owing to the 
heavy rains, which, in this inhospitable region, preclude the 
movement of troops. 

The duty of the force has in consequence been confined to 
watching the enemy, and checking any material inroad into the 
protected territory of Sikldm. 

The Tibetans during this period had advanced their forces, 
occupying and fortifying the Jalap and Pemberingo i>asses ; and 
latterly, becoming emboldened, they had invaded the Kupup 
vaUey lying at the foot of the passes on the Sikkim side. 

3. Brigadier-General Graham, acting on instructions from 
head-qua^rs, did not interfere with the proceedings of the 
Tibetans, but waited for the breaking up of the rains to expel the 
enemy from the invaded territory. 

His orders were to move when the weather permitted, to expel 
the enemy from the Sikkim State, and to inflict exemplary punish- 
ment on them. He was at liberty to cross the passes into Tibet, 
and to follow the enemy as far as might be necessary to effect the 
above object, bearing in mind that it was not desired to occupy 
Tibet, and that the force was to return to Sikkim as soon as the 
defeat of the enemy had been completed. 

4. The advance of the Tibetans on the night of the 2drd 
September, and the occupation of the Tukola ranges, within 
sight of the fort of Gnathong, together with some improvement 
in the weather, afforded the desired opportunity for action, 
advantage of which was promptly taken. The operations ofthe 
force are fully described in the despatch. 

5. The complete manner in which Brigadier-G«neral Graham 
has given effect to his instructions, the general intelligence which, 
he has displayed throughout the operations in Sikkim, the 
patience eidiibited when inaction was imperative, and the skill 
in seizing the right moment to attack, by doing which he 
completely defeated and demoralized the large Tibetan force with 
a minimum of loss to his own troops, have the entire approval of 
the Commander-in-Chief. 

6. In no less degree do the patience and endurance of the 
officers and soldiers of all ranks during the trying period occupied 
by this campaign, as weU as their bearing in action with the 
enemy, merit praise and commendation. Confined within the 
limits of the Gnathong post and valley, at an elevation of 12,600 



110 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

feet daring the wettest season of the year, and occupied only in 
patrolling in rain and discomfort and observing the encroach- 
ments of the Tibetans, it required no small exercise of zeal to 
maintain a cheerful spirit. 

7. The conduct of the force has nevertheless been exemplary, 
and their discipline and bearing all that could be desired; and 
the Commander-in-Chief has much pleasure in commending 
Brigadier-Q«neral Graham and the force under his command to 
the favourable notice of the Governor-General in Council. 

8. The severe woimds sustained by Lientenant-Colonel Sir 
Benjamin P. '^romhead, Bart., commanding the 32nd Pioneers, 
will, it is feared, deprive the army of his services for some time to 
come. This officer has, throughout the campaign, held the 
position of second-in-command to Brigadier-General Graham, and 
has merited the confidence and approval of his Gtoeral and of the 
Commander-in-Chief. His ExceUency, in submitting this des- 
patch, fully endorses the terms of commendation in which the 
named regimental and staff and departmental officers of the force 
are mentioned by the Brigadier-General commanding. 

9. Betums of casualties during the recent operations are 
appended. 



From Brigadter-Oeneral T. Chraham, Commanding the Sikkim Ex- 
peditionary Force, to the Adjutant-General in India, — (No. 147, 
dated Camp Onathong, 2nd Octoherf 1888). 

I have the honour to forward, for the information of his 
ExceUency the Commander-in-Chief, a report of the operations 
resulting in the capture of the passes leading into Tibet, and the 
defeat of the Tibetan army commanded by Gnabu Depen. 

2. At daybreak on the morning of the 24th ultimo, it could be 
seen from Fort Gnathong that the Tibetans had occupied in force 
the whole range of hills from the Tukola Peak on the west, past 
Mount Paul, to the Trigonometrical point on the east, and had 
also placed an advanced post on an isolated hill in the upper 
Gnathong valley. The greater part of this position, whidi is 
nearly three miles in length, appeared to be strengthened by a 
stone wall some three or four feet in height. The enemy 
announced his presence by loud shouts and the frequent discharge 
of jinjaU, and also some cannon of a larger size, which were 
placed at intervals. Considering that the position could not have 
been occupied until some time after dark the previous evening, I 
estimate that at least 7000 men must have been at work during 
the night. 

3. As it soon became evident that the Tibetans did not intend 
to advance nearer to Gnathong,* I decided to assume the offensive. 



APPENDIX. Ill 

4. Before starting, the men had their breakfasts, and a day's 
cooked rations per man was arranged for, to be carried in their 
haversacks. The mules were also ordered from Shalambi, and 
the men's kits packed ready to be sent on after the 
advancing columns, as well as two days' rations, which had 
previously been made over to regiments in view of an advance. 

5. By 8 a.m. all was ready, and the force advanced to the 
attack in three columns as follows : 

(1.) The Left Column, under my personal command, was 

, ^ « , - composed of the troops shown in 

Left Columnr^Order of march. ^j^ margin. This flolumn was to 

1 company, 2-l8t Ourkha Begi- ^ u«*i.gi**. jlx**o wxi*xu« tt«« wv 
ment (advance guard). advance past No. Iv. block-house, 

2 companies, 2-l8t Ourkha up the south side of the ridge 
"^X/No. 9-1^. Northern leading to the T^tola Peak, which 
Division, Eoyal Artillery. was the key to the enemv^s 

3 companies, 2-ist Ourkha position, as from it the remainder 

"^Sm^nies and headquarters ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^"^^ ^ 

2nd Battalion Derbyshire Eegi- enhladed. 

ment. 

(2) The Centre Column, as per margin^ under command of 

Lieutenant-Colonel Sir B. P. Brom- 

Cmtre Column-Strenqth, head, Bart., 32nd Pioneers, was 

3 companies, 32nd Pioneers. directed to proceed up the main 

Tukola road, keeping level with the 

left column, to which it was to act as a right flank guard. 

(3) The Eight Column, as per margin, under command of 

Major H. C. Halkett, 32nd Pioneers, 
BxgU Colum^Stren^th. directed to proceed to the 

1 company, 2nd Battahon Derby- " ^ -n -^ AT xif ^'^'v^ - r^ " ^ 
shire Begiment. Saddle Back, north-east of Wood- 

2 companies, 32nd Pioneers. cock Hill, and hold its position 
^^ Port guns (worked by Pio- ^y^^j,^^ ^^^ ^ ^j^^ ^o meeting any 

forward movement of the enemy's 
left, and also to deceive him as to our real point of attack. 

6. Major T. H. Goldney, 32nd Pioneers, was left in command of 
the fort, with three companies of his regiment and small guards 
of the 2nd Battalion Derbyshire Eegiment. and 2-lst Gurkha 
Begiment. 

7. At about 9.30 a.m. the guns of the Bight Column came into 
action against the enemy's walls in the centre of the valley, and 
made excellent practice. They were assisted by volleys from a 
section of the Derbyshire Begiment; and about 10 a.m. the 
occupants of the walls were seen retiring rapidly towards Mount 
Paul. 

8. The Centre Column next became engaged, at about 10 a.m., 
having got somewhat ahead of the left column, owing to having 
an easier road to traverse, and also to the mist, which covered the 
whole valley shortly i^ter the advance began, rendering it almost 



112 . THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

impoBaible to maintain communication with the left column. 
About a quarter of an hour later. Colonel Sir B. P. Bromhead 
had made his way without loss to a point on the road some 
900 yards from the Tukola Pass; and here he halted, sending 
Lieutenant Holland with a"BmaU party to the top of the hill on 
his immediate left. 

9. At 10 a.m. the Left Column had reached a peak 800 yards 
from the Tukola, and the guns fired two or three rounds at the 
enemy's fortifications on the Peak, taking advantage of a transient 
glimpse of his position obtained throu^ the mist. At 10.30 the 
GurUias of the advance guard reached the hill occupied by 
Lieutenant Holland's parl^; and both they and the Pioneers 
on the road below opened a hot fire on the enemy, which was 
replied to vigorously all along their line of walls, but with little 
effect, as most of their bullets passed harmlessly over our heads, 
and only two Pioneers were slightly wounded. 

10. Ten minutes later, our men having recovered their breath, 
I directed Captain Robinson, who was in command of the three 
leading companies of Gurkhas, to storm the Tukola Peak, taking 
with lum Lieutenant Holland's party of Pioneers. This was done 
in capital style ; Colonel Sir B. P. Bromhead's party at the same 
time advancing along the road, straight at the pass itself. The 
Tibetans waited untU our men were within fifty yards of them, 
and then turned and fled, their walls being at once occupied by 
the Gurkhas and Pioneers, who opened a hot tire on the fugitives. 
On seeing their right turned, the remainder of the Tibetans 
apparently considered further resistance hopeless, and the flight 
became general along their whole line. 

11. The guns were at once brought into action on the Tukola 
Peak, against the enemy, i^ho w^re retreating over the Nimla 
Pass. Colonel Sir B. P. Bromhead, with uie Pioneers, was 
directed to pursue along the main road, two companies of the 
Gurkhas being with him and the Derbyshire in close support^ 
whilst Lieutenant-Colonel Bogers, with the remainder of the 
Gurkhas, took the direct road along the ridge towards Mount 
Paul, keeping one company in the valley on his left. 

The guns advanced as soon as their fire was masked by the 
advancing infantry; and by noon the whole of the centre and 
right columns was concentrated at the Nimla Pass, with the 
exception of the Gurkhas under Lieutenant-Colonel Bogers, who 
had pursued the enemy over Mount Paul to the entrance to the 
Pemberingo Pass, where they had halted. 

12. I now halted and allowed the men to rest, whilst I prepared 
for the attack on the passes. 

13. I despatched the Pioneers of the Centre Column, who were 
now commanded by Lieutenant Holland, owing to Colonel Sir B. 
P. Bromhead having been severely wounded shortly after leaving 



APPENDIX. 113 

the Tnkola Pass, to join the right column, which had advanced to 
Mount Paul ; and directed Major Halkett to send his company of 
the Derbyshire Begiment to join me, and with the remainder of 
his force hold in check the Pemberingo Tibetans, whilst I attacked 
the Jalap Pass. At the same time I signalled to Colonel Sogers 
to move to the north end of the Bidangcho Lake, and halt until I 
joined him. A message was also sent to the detachment of the 
13th Bengal Infantry at Shalambi to join me as soon as possible. 

14. By 2 p.m. all necessary movements were completed, and I 

moved forward against the Jalap 

Order of March against Jalap Pass. The force advanced in the 

^^*V V. « . order shown in the margin ; and as 

JLH^^<i>-^ "" "^^ *the entrance to the Jalap 

1 company, Derbyshire Begi- Valley was reached, the guns came 
^^^^' ., r. , X XT _xv ^^ action, two on the spur on the 
DWilT'lto^ A&^°1t^ leftbaiJcofthe8tr«Huandtwoon 
escort of 50 Gurkhas). some high ground immediately 

2 companies, Derbyshire Hegi- below, firing first at the lower and 
""s? companies. 1st Gurkha Eegi- forwards at the centee Jalap walL 
ment. At the same time the infantry 

formed for attack in the valley 
itself, the Derbyshire on the left of the road and the Gurkhas 
parallel to them on the right. 

15. The Tibetans replied to the guns but feebly with jinials 
and matchlocks ; and after a few rounds had been fired, I directed 
the infantry to advance. On their approach the enemy retreated 
rapidly, and the lower and centre walls were occupied successively 
almost without opposition. 

16. The force bivouacked in the pass; and as the baggage 
did not come up until after midnight, and the rain came down 
heavily, the men passed an uncomfortable night. 

17. The next morning (25th) the pursuit was continued over 

the pass to !Etinchagong, distance 

Order of march across Jalap Pass. »bout ten miles, the column being 

1 company, Derbyshire Begi- formed as shown in the margin. 

ment (advance guard). But little resistance was encoun- 

^S^compames. Derbyshire Begi- ^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^^ j^^^ 

4 guns. No. 9.1st, Northern shots being fired at the advance 
Diyision,EoyalArtmerT. ^ guard: but our progress was 

j^compames, 1st Gurkha Eegi. ^^^^ impeded by the rough and 

Detachment, 13th Bengiilnfan- precipitous nature of the road, 
try (rear gruard). which was covered with large 

rocks and boulders. The enemy 
had, moreover, broken down three out of the seven bridges over 
which the road passes, thus causing additional delays. 

18. Einchagong was reaehed at 4 p.m., and beyond a few 
shots fired as soon as we came in sight and replied to by the 
advance guard, it was undefended. The enemy's loss was four or 

I 



114 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

fiye killed Ux the Tillage, and several fagitiyes were also shot. 
As we entered the village, a stream of men flying from the 
direction of Pemberingo could be seen 'coming down a ridge to 
the south ; on perceiving us, however, they turned off in the 
direction of Bhutan. 

19. The night was passed without molestation^ though several 
Tibetans, who endeavoured to pass the Derbyshire pioquet, which 
was on the Pemberingo road, were shot. 

20. The next morning (26th) the force proceeded to Chambi, 
three miles up the Mochu Biver, the bivouac for the night being 
at Myatong, two miles on the Jitap side of Binchagong. 

21. The enemy appeared to be completely disorganised and 
thoroughly beaten and dispirited, not a single shot being fired at 
the force during the march to Chambi. 

22. The day following, the 27th ultimo, the force returned to 
Gnathong, a long march of fifteen miles, the ascent to the sxmimit 
of the Jalap Pass being particularly trying both for men 
and animals, and the difficulties of the road being much increased 
by the pouiing rain. 

23. The number of the enemy opposed to us on the 24th 
ultimo was, so far as can be ascertained, about 11,000, of which 
some 8000 advanced to the Tukola Bidge. They posseted about 
twenty jinjals and small cannon, but these were withdrawn early 
in the fight and either hidden or carried a^ay, and frequent 
search pturties, subsequently sent out, have failed to discover 
them. One six-pounder brass smooth-bore field gun, complete 
with carriage, was captured and brought to Gnathong. lArge 
quantities of powder, arrows, and other warlike stores were 
destroyed at Binchagong. 

24. The Tibetan Iqss may be estimated at 400 killed, and at 
least as many more wounded. ' About 200 prisoners remained in 
our hands, but many of those captured across the passes^ being 
wounded, were released. 

25. Our loss was Lieutenant-Colonel Sir B. P. Bromhead, Bart,, 
commanding the 32nd Pioneers, severely woundeSl; one sepoy, 
2-l8t Gurkha Begiment, severely wounded; and two sepoys, 32nd 
Pioneers, slightly wounded. I attach a report of the casualties. 

26. I would further wish to record my high opinion of the 
behaviour of the troops throughout these operations. Not oply 
was the fire well controlled during action, as is evidenced by the 
fact that some eight or nine per cent, of shots fired took effect, 
but during the subsequent pursuit, which involved much hard 
work and more than ordinary exposure to wet and cold, the spirit 
evinced by all ranks could not have been surpassed. Officers and 
men vied with one another in exhibiting a cheerfulness under 



APPENDIX. 115 

difficulties, and a d&teminatioii to overoome them, which I gladly 
take this opportunity of bringing to his Excellency's notice. 

27. In conclusion, I beg specially to mention the following 
officers: 

Lieutenant-Colonel Sir Benjamin P. Bromhead, Bart., com- 
manding the 32nd Pioneers, has, throughout the campaign, been 
of the greatest assistance to me, and on this occasion specially 
was conspicuous by the able manner in which he conducted the 
advance of the centre column. The loss which the force has 
sustained by his being severely wounded can hardly be over- 
estimated. 

My thanks are also due to Lieutenant-Colonel J. McCleverty, 
commanding the 2nd Battalion, Derbyshire Begimeftt; Lieutenant- 
Colonel G. W. Rogers, commaDding the 2-lst Gurkha Begiment ; 
and Major J. Keith, commanding the Boyal Artillery, for the 
manner in which they assisted me in carrying out my plans ; and 
also to Major H. C. Halkett, 32nd Pioneers, for the admirable 
way in which the advance of the right coliunn was conducted. 

Being obliged to leave some officer upon whom I could rely in 
command of the fort, I selected Major T. H. Goldney, 32nd 
Pioneers, for this duty, which he performed in the mofft satis- 
factory manner. 

I would bring especially to notice the conduct of Captain G. 
H. Bobinson, 1-lst Gurkha Begiment (attached to i^e 2-lst 
Gurkha Begiment), and Lieutenant G. L. Holland, 34th Pioneers 
(officiating Adjutant, 32nd Pioneers), during the assault on the 
Tukola, the capture of which decided the fate of the day. On 
the latter officer devolved the command of that portion of the 
32nd Pioneers which formed the Centre Column after Colonel Sir 
B. P. Bromhead was wounded ; and though he has been but a 
short time with the regiment, I was able to see that he had 
thorough control over his men, and kept them well in hand. 

To Captain E. A. Travers, l-2nd Gurkha Begiment, Deputy 
Assistant Adjutant-General of the Expeditionary Force, I am 
deeply indebted. His tact and judgment, his careful attention te 
detail, and the very frequent reconnaissances he has made, have 
been on all occasions of the greatest assistance te me; and I 
would especially wish te record how much I appreciate his 
valuable services. 

To Captain H. Mansfield, Chief Commissariat Officer, my 
special thanks are due, not only for the able and untiring manner^ 
in which he has throughout supervised commissariat and transport' 
matters, but especiaUy for his admirable arrangemente on this 
occasion, owing to which the successful advance of the force te 
Chambi was very largely due. 

The medical arrangements of the f oree were carried out satis- 



116 THE SIKKIM CAMPAIGN. 

faetorily by Surgeon-Major B. H. Carew, Medical Staff, Benior 
medical officer with the Force. 



Return of Casualties in the Sikhim Field Fobcb 
ON the 24th September, 1888. 

Wfmnded. 

Lieutenant-Colonel Sir Benjamin P. Bromhead, Bart,^ 32nd 
Bengal Infantry, severely. . 

Sepoy Gurdit Sing, d2nd -Bengal Infantry (Pioneers), slightly. 
Sepoy Jwali^Sing, d2nd Bengal Infantry (Pioneers), slightly. 
Sepoy Earbir lliapa, 2nd Battdlion, Ist Gurkha Begiment, 
severely. 



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