Full text of "The new British traveller; or, a Modern panorama of England and Wales; exhibiting an account, historical, topographical, and statistical, of this portion of the British Empire, interspersed with biographical particulars of eminent and remarkable persons"

JMTEB10JR, of WATLTHAM ABBEY

Efsex.

I >
'. f '/,>,-:r :
/

THE NEW

BRITISH TRAVELLER;

OR,

MODERN PANORAMA

Cnglanti anfc

Exhibiting, at one comprehensive View,
AN AMPLE, ACCURATE, AND POPULAR ACCOUNT,

HISTORICAL, TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND STATISTICAL,

Or this most important Portion of

THE BRITISH EMPIRE.

DE6CBIPTIVI OF

ITS SEVERAL COUNTIES, CITIES, TOWNS, AND OTHER SUBDIVISIONS; THEIR SITUATION,
EXTENT, CLIMATE, SOIL, AND PRODUCTIONS, NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL:

IMPROVEMENT AND PRESENT STATE OF

THE ARTS, SCIENCES, MANUFACTURES,
AGRICULTURE, CO31MERCE, POPULATION, AND SOCIETY.

Forming a complete Survey of

SOUTH BRITAIN;

COMPRISING AUTHENTIC INFORMATION ON EVERY SUBJECT OF A LOCAL OR GENERAL NATURE,

AND INTERSPERSED WITH

Biographical Particulars of Eminent and Remarkable Persons,

BY JAMES DUGDALE, LL. D.

ILLUSTRATED BY A COMPLETE SET OF CORRECT MAPS; VIEWS OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS,

ANTIQUITIES, &c. &c.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY AND FOR J. AND J. CUNDEE,

IVY-LANE. PATERNOSTEE-ROW,

v.2-

D E RB Y

!M m -!i Mil,-,
* i* tf f J g <

THE NEW

BRITISH TRAVELLER.

DERBYSHIRE.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY.

THE County of Derby is situated nearly in the
centre of the island. It is bounded on the
north by Yorkshire, and part of Cheshire, the
Etherow separating it from the latter ; on the
east it is bounded by Nottinghamshire ; on the south
by Leicestershire, which also surrounds one of its
parishes ; and, on the west, it is divided from Che-
shire and Staffordshire, by theGoyt, the Dove, and the
Trent. On the northern and eastern sides its boun-
dary line must be considered rather artificial than
natural. The longest diameter of Derbyshire, from
north to south, is nearly fifty-five miles ; its breadth
at the northern extremity, is about thirty-three ; but
it contracts as it advances southward, and, near its
junction with Leicestershire, it terminates almost in
a point. Gough, in his additions to Camdcn, esti-
mates its contents at 720,640 acres ; but, according
to the last Population Returns, it contains no more
than 689,280 acres.

The figure of this county is remarkably irregular ;
its sides sometimes swelling into projections, and
sometimes retreating in curves. Its general ap-
pearance is also very^ dissimilar ; its northern and
southern parts presenting a strong contrast : the
former is eminently distinguished by its hills and
vallies, whilst the latter is not remarkable for either.
From this irregularity of surface, the upper and
middle parts of the county are generally denominat-
ed the High Peak, and the Wapentake, or Low
Peak. The mountainous tract of country which
commences from the Low Peak, extends in one great
chain varying in breadth, to the southern extremity
of Scotland. The course of this range, in its pro-
gress through Derbyshire, inclines somewhat to the
west ; but as it advances, it spreads to the north, at
length occupies the whole of the north- west angle,
and also branches off in an easterly direction.

In the southern extremity of the Peak, the ground
rises gradually into hills, which, in their progress
northward, being piled one upon another, form the

very elevated tract called the High Peak. This is
a region of bleak barren heights, and long extended
moors, interspersed with deep vallies, through which
the smaller streams meander. " Here," observes a
contemporary writer, " the scenery is in many parts
romantic and sublime ; but, on the whole, inferior
in picturesque effect to that of other mountainous
countries. Beauty, indeed, is only resident in the
vallies ; the high grounds appearing dreary, and
destitute of entertainment ; and in many situations
not a single house or tree is seen, to divert the eye
of the traveller, or relieve the weariness that arises
from the contemplation of sterility and nakedness.
Unpleasing, however, and even disgustful to the
imagination, as the moors are, they yet serve, by
way of contrast, to heighten the beauty of the dales
and vallies by which they are intersected ; and the
sudden change which these occasion in the appear-
ance of the country, at once surprises and interests :
admiration is excited by the comparison ; and the
mind readily admits that its pleasure would hare
been less perfect, if the preceding scenes had been
more beautiful."

The most considerable eminences in the High
Peak are the Ax-cdge, and Kinder-scout. The
former is situated near Buxton ; and, according to
Whitehurst, it is about 2100 feet higher than the
town of Derby, and 1000 feet above the valley in
which Buxton Hall stands. Kinder-scout rises
near the north-east angle of the Peak : its height
has not been taken ; but, as it overlooks all the
neighbouring eminences, its elevation is thought to
be greater than that of Ax-edge.

In the Low Peak are numerous eminences, of va-
rious height and extent. Alport, near Wirksworth ;
Crich-cliff; and Brassington Moor, which command
very extensive prospects, are the most lofty. From
Alport, on a clear day, the Wrekin, in Shropshire,
may be distinctly seen.

On the eastern side of the county there is a lofty

ridge,

DERBYSHIRE.

ridge, of considerable length and extent : it com-
mences to the south of Hardwick, and continues, in
another direction, to the extremity of Derbyshire,
where it enters the county of York.

The southern part of this county is, in general,
pleasant and well cultivated ; but it presents no par-
ticular variety of scenery. Dr. Aikin, in his " De-
scription of the Country round Manchester," ob-
serves, that " the mountainous part of this county
is distinguished from the rest by the greater quan-
tity of rain which falls in it. At Chatsworth, which
is by no means the highest tract, about thirty-three
inches of rain have been found to fall annually, at a
medium. The High Peak is peculiarly liable to
very violent storms, in which the rain descends in
torrents, so as frequently to occasion great ravages
in the lands ; it is also subject to very high winds.
These causes, together with the elevation of the
country, render it cold, so that vegetation is back-
ward and unkindly. Some kinds of grain will not
grow at all in the Peak, and others seldom ripen till
very late in the year. The atmosphere is, however,
pure and healthful, and the higher situations are ge-
nerally free from epidemic diseases, though agues
and fevers sometimes prevail in the vallies. One
disease is, however, endemic in these parts, and even
as far south as Derby : this is the Bronchocelc, or
Derby-neck : it is an enlargement of the glands of
the throat, and is a degree of the same disease that
is known in the alps, and other mountainous tracts."

RIVERS.] The Crawlow, the Derwent, the Dove,
the Errewash, the Rothcr, the Trent, and the Wye,
are the principal rivers of Derbyshire.

The Crawlow waters the northern parts of the
county, but possesses nothing to entitle it to parti-
cular attention.

The Derwent rises in the mountainous district of the
High Peak, and is soon increased by various tor-
rents, which flow from the dreary waste by which its
source is enclosed. These unite near Hathi-rsage in
one stream, which, taking a south eastern course,
emerges from its native wilds ; and, passing through
Chatsworth Park, soon afterwards receives the wa-
ters of the Wye. It has been remarked, that the
stream of the Derwent is of a dusky colour, which
it derives from the soil it passes through. Its tem-
perature is higher than that of most rivers ; a cir-
cumstance ascribed to the numerous warm springs
which mingle with the current during its progress.
After passing through Chatsworth ^ark, the Der-
went, enlarged by the waters of the Wye, enlivens
the pleasant vale of Dsrlcy, till i's channel is sud-
denly engulphed between those loi'ty rocks, which,
in their winding recesses, enclose the romantic
scenery of Matlock vale. In the words of the
poet :

; Here tl-.p HIGH TOR

Rears Us mighty head, a!ong. \\hosc broad bold base.
Impatient Dervrcnt foam 1 :, among the craggs
' impetuous, till Uis.lyrxe all lost,

Gentle and still, a deep and silent stream,
He scarcely seems lo move : o'er him the boughs
Bend their green foliage, shivering with the wind,
And dip into his surface."

At this part, the scenery on the banks of the Der-
went is highly interesting. From the turnpike-gate,
at Matlock, to the Old Bath, the margin is one
complete incrustation of tuphus, which gradually
acquires such a degree of hardness that most of the
buildings in the vicinity are built with it. The cliff
which bounds the eastern bank, particularly that
part of it called the High Torr, is remarkably bold
and picturesque. The prospect of the cliff from the
Old Bath is also very striking : and that from the
front of Froggat's Hotel, though not the most w ild
and romantic, is the most pleasing to the eye. The
trees, which clothe the opposite steep, exhibit a
beautiful variety of tints, which finely contrast with
the bare and rugged protuberances of the rock,
that advance to meet the view. The Derwent,
murmuring along, forms a gentle curve in front of
the hotel, and the ground here is laid out with par-
ticular taste and attention, though nature prevails,
as if disdaining the controul of art. Emerging
through the rocks at Cromford, the Darwent flows
through several deep vallies, enters the cultivated
j vale which extends to Derby, and, suddenly turning
! to the east, it passes quietly to the wide plain enli-
vened by the Trent, into which it flows, on the Lei-
cestershire border, near Wilnr,

The Dove, which is said to derive its name from
the glossy blue or purple colour of its water, resem-
bling the colour of the bird of the same name, rises
in the Peak of Derbyshire, at a little distance to the
south of Buxton, and, running south-east, divides this
county from Staffordshire, and falls into the Trent,
a few miles north of Burton-upon-Trent. This
river sometimes swells, in the course of twelve hours,
to an amazing height, and frequently carries away
whole flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, ami returns
as suddenly to its natural channel. These inunda-
tions are occasioned by shoots of water, which this
river frequently receives in its course through so
j mountainous a country. The current of the Dove
is supposed to pass through a lime-stone stratum,
which renders the waters so fertile, that, if it over-
flow its banks in the spring, it greatly enriches the
meadows. The country people say in April, Dove's
flood is worth a king's good. The Dove is remark-
able for producing a fish called grayling, and for
trouts, which are said to be the finest in England.
It is thus immortalised in the antiquated verses of
Cotton :

" Thy murmurs, Dpve,
Plea.'ing lo lovers, or men fallen in love ;
With thy bright beauties, and thy fair blue eyes,
Wound like a Parthian, while the b hooter il ies ;
Ol all lair Thetes, none so bright, V

So pleasant lo the taste, none to the sight,
None \itld the gentle angler fudi del'ghl. )

DERBYSHIRE.

To which the bounty of a stream is such,
As only with a swift and transient touch,
T' inrich her sterile borders as she glides.
And force sweet flowers from their marble sides."

The Errewash, which rises in the cold district
near Alfretou, divides this county from Nottingham-
shire, and falls into the Trent eleven miles east-
south-east of Derby.

The Rother derives its origin from several rivu-
lets to the south of Chesterfield, which it passes
in its course ; when, taking a north easterly direc-
tion, it enters \orkshire between Kilmarsh and
Beighlon.

Tlie Trent, which rises in Staffordshire, enters
Derbyshire at a little distance south of Catton ; for
several miles it forms the south-western boundary of
the county ; but taking a more easterly direction
near Newton rfolney, it flows by Twyford and
Swarkston to the confines of Leicestershire, and,
after continuing its course between the counties
for some miles, finally quits Derbyshire near
Barton.

The Wye rises amongst the bleak heights in the
vicinity of Bnxton ; and, receiving in its romantic
course, the waters of several minor streams, it flows
in a south easterly direction, by the town of Eake-

* Akhemillu, vulgaris. Common ladies' mantle, or bears-
foot ; in mountainous meadows and pastu-cs,
common.

slrcnaria vcrna. Mountain chickweed; in (lie Peak about
Wirksworth, and elsewhere.

Bryum hypnoides. Wooly brvum ; on mountainous heaths, at
Matlock Bath.

hypnoidts A variety of the last ; on the mountains

in the Peak.

Byssus saxatilis. Stone Byssus: on limestone rocks.

Campanula lutijolia. Giant throatwort ; in the mountainous
pastures by the hedge sides, plentifully.

Cqfdamme hirsuta. Hairy ladies' smock; about the mouth of
Poole's hole, plentifully.

impatient. Impatient laches' smock; by brooks

in mountainous meadows, and on moist rocks
and stones.

CocMcarea o/icinalis. Common, or garden scurvy grass ; on
the mountains atCastleton in the Peak, about
(he great subterraneous vault or cavern called
Peak's hole.

' officinalis y. Grznlandica: Greenland scurvy

grass ; about the entrance into Peak's hole

Comarum palustre. Purple marsh cinquefoil ; near the ebbine
and flowing well at Tideswell.

Draba murahs. Speedwell-leaved whitlow crass : iii the fis-
sures of rocks, and in mountainous and stony
pastures, especially of a chalky soil.

Empetnm ntgrum. Blackberried heath, crow or crakeberries
on the mountains in the Peak, common.

Enca cinerca. Fine leaved heath ; on the mountains near
nathersedge in the Peak.

Erysimum ehicranthoide*. Treacle wormseed ; near Ashburn
in the Peak.

Geranium lucidum. Shining dove' foot crane's bill ; about
die entrance into Peak's hole

Lichen jubutus. Fennel liverwort ; on the rocks near Danvent

lu the Peak. '

omplMs.^ Purple liverwort; on the rocks in the

VOL. ii. NO. 4fj.

well, and falls into the Derwent, a few miles be-
low.

PLANTS.] The delightful meadows and pastures
in the southern and eastern parts of this county,
produce all the common herbs which flourish in
other parts of the island : those which are noticed
by Camden, as more rare, are given in the noto
below.*

MINES AND MINERALS.] Derbyshire is rich in
mineral produce ; the mines of lead, iron, calamine,
coal, &c. affording employment to many of its inha-
bitants. Some of the lead-mines have been wrought
through a long succession of ages. They were for-
merly of greater value than at present ; as the
veins become poorer, the deeper the mines are exca-
vated. Camden was of opinion, that Derbyshire
was alluded to by Pliny, when he said, " In Britain,
lead is found near the surface of the earth in such
abundance, that a law is made to limit the quantity
that siiail be gotten." However this may be, it is x
ceriain that the Romans had lead works in tiiis part
of the island, as several pigs of lead have been found
here inscribed with Roirian characters. One of these
was discovered on Cromford Moor, in the year 1777,
bearing the following inscription :

IMP. CAES. HADRIANI. AUG. MEI. LVI.

Lijeopodium clavntum. Common clubmoss, or) onthcmoun-

wolvesclaw; / tains near

selago. Fir clubmoss ; on rocks f Uerwent in

, and ) tin, p ej k.

I'olypndium fiiijc famina. Female polypody ; in maishy and

shady places about Wingerworth Common.

" fragile. Brittle polypody ; about Peak's hole.

margiiiale. Marginal polypody; about Huxton,

this plant has not been long known to be a na-
tive of England.
Polytrichum commune. Common polytrichum', or golden

maidenhair; in the Peak.
Prenunthes muralis. Ivy leaved wild lettuce; on old walls

and about the entrance into Peak's hole.
Ilubus idttus. Raspberry bush, framboise, or himibcrry ; in

the hedges in the Peak.
Rumex maritimus. Golden dork; in the meadow by the

roadside leading to Swarston Bridge, which in

floods are overflowed by the Trent.

Saxtfraga hypnoidet. Trifid sengrecn ; on tlie mountains.
T/iahctrcim minus. Lesser meadow rue ; about tlie entrance

into P.-ak's hole.
Thlaspi montunum. Mountain mithridate mustard ; in the

Peak.
Tremelta utriculata. Bladder tremella ; on stones in rivulets,

near Tkh-swell.
Vacciniwn oiycoccus< Cranberries, mossberries, or moorber-

ries; on boggy places iu the Pe.ik.
'*'* idaa. Red whorls, or whortleberries ; in the

mountain* of the Peak, plentifully.
faleriania ojjidmilis ft. Mountain valerian; near Biixton

\Vell, above a stony and thorny pLice callecf

Ashwood. .
J'iola gnmdiflora. Yellow violet, or pansies ; .-bnut Pool's

hole and Eldt-n hole, and ,n the Peak.
tricolor. Pansies, or Heart-east-; in the mountain?

amongst the corn, and upon the mud walls

and fences of stone.

This

DERBYSHIRE.

this was interpreted by the late Rev. Mr. Pegge,
who made some observations on it in the fourth vo-
lume of the Archajologia, thus : " The Sixth Le-
gion inscribe* this in Memory of the Emperor Ha-
drian." Another block of lead was discovered in
the year 1783, in Matlock Bank ; but the meaning
of the inscription was more difficult to be ascertained,
as the words were not only much abbreviated, but
also consisted of compounded letters : these, how-
ever, were in sharp relief, and as perfect as when
newly formed. Mr. Pegge [conjectured the inscrip-
tion might, be thus explained : " The property of
Lucius Aruconius Verecundus, Lead Merchant, of
London." This block measured twenty-two inches
on the lower surface, five in breadth, and weighed
eighty-four pounds. A third block, which weighed
about eighty-nine pounds, was discovered at Mat-
lock, at a period still later. The following letters
were inscribed upon it. :

TI. CL. TR. LVT. BR. EXARG.

These, according to the conjecture of the Rev.
Mr. Clifford, stand for the words " Tiberii, Clau-
diani. Triumviri, Lutudari Ex Argentaria."

It is apparent that the lead-mines of Derbyshire
were known to the Saxons, as a mine near Castle-
ton is called Odin, from the name of one of their
deities : the same circumstance proves it to have
Keen opened prior to the introduction of Christianity.
It appears also, that there were lead-mines in the
Wapentake of , Wirksworth in the year 835 ; for at
that period Kenewara, Abbess of Rcpton, granted
her estate at " Wircesworth" to Humbert, the Al-
derman, on condition that he annually gave lead, of
the value of 300 shillings, to Archbishop Cestnoth,
for the use of Christ Church, Canterbury. The
bus'iu'ss of the lead-mines was doubtless carried to
a considerable extent at the time of the Norman
Survey, as the Domesday Book mentions no less
than seven in this county.

Before we proceed to specify, or describe the re-
spective minerals of this county, it seems proper to
; remark, that veins of lead ore arc distinguished, on
account of their various positions in the earth, by
the technical or local names of " pipe," " rake,"
and " flat" works. The first of these lie between
two rocks, or strata, yet seldom follow any regular
inclination, but fill up fissures, the lines or branches
running parallel to each other, and more or less ho-
rizontally. The branches have a general connection,
or communication, by means of fine slender threads,
or " leadings." The rock which forms the " roofs"
and " soles" of these veins, is sometimes pierced
though by the leadings, which frequently conduct
to a fresh range. These works are always accom-
panied by considerable; portions of clay ; and when
the branches of the vein become imperceptible, the
day is frequently followed as a sure guide to new
veins. The principal pipe veins arc Yate Stoop,
near Winster ; llubberdalo, near Money-ash ; Wa-
tergrove, Milleraine, and Lanehead, at Castjcton.

The veins nre sometimes twenty or thirty yards
wide, and sometimes not more than two inches :
they generally have toadstone, either above or below,
in the neighbourhood.

The perpendicular veins, termed " rake," are
found in the clefts and chasms of limestone ; conse-
quently, instead of extending uniformly between the
same strata, they follow the direction of the cavities,
and sometimes penetrate 150 or 200 yards into the
earth. "NearCastletou," we understand, " they ge-
nerally run from east to west, and are traced, or
discovered, from the surface. They are not exactly
perpendicular, but ' hade,' or incline, about one
foot in ten ; sometimes to the north, and sometimes
to the south. There are veins that have a more
northerly or southerly direction, and are then called
cross veins : sometimes they intersect each other,
and where they unite, they are generally very rich.
Small veins, usually called ' strings,' or ' serins,'
often extend from the rake, and take various direc-
tions : all arc worked as long as they are found pro-
fitable, and the intermediate substances that divide
them are called ' riders.' When the veins are se-
parated, which is sometimes the case, by ' clay,'
' bind,' or ' toadstone,' they are observed, where the
lower parts are again discovered, to be thrown on
one side, according to the ' hade' of the vein, and
are thence said to ' leap.' The principal rake veins
are in the neighbourhood of Castleton, Wirksworth,
Matlock, Winster, and a few other places."

Although the " Flat-works" bear considerable
resemblance to the " pipe," they disagree in some
points. The principal leader, or stem, in the pipe,
is accompanied by many branches, but the " P'lat"
has none ; the latter spreads wider, yet seldom ex-
tends more than 100 yards. It is also found near
the surface, and in the solid rock. It is doubtful,
whether the " pipe" or the " rake" veins are more
prevalent.

Foul air, and water, constitute the greatest im-
pediments to working the mines. To relieve them
from the former, a pipe or tube is generally intro-
duced down the shaft, and extended along the roof
of the gallery to the place where the work is carried
on. To remove the water, many " adits," or, as
they are here termed, " soughs," are driven from
the Derwent to Alport, and called the Hilcar Sough.
It cost upwards of 50,000.'. ; relieves a considerable
number of mines ; and is nearly four miles in length.
Another, and one of the most considerable, at Wirks-
worth, is called Cromibrd Sough. It is full two
miles in length, and was driven at an expence of
30,000/. The proprietors receive a certain propor-
tion of lead ore from the mines ; though the latter
are now beneath the level, and o!' course but ineffec-
tually drained by it. The relieving of the mines at
Wirksworth by this adit, has long been only a se-
condary object ; as the water delivered by it at
Cromtord has proved of immense value. The cele-
brated Sir R. Arkwright employed the stream to
work his cotton mill ; and it is still applied to a

similar

DERBYSHIRE.

similar purpose, haying the great advantage of not
being liable either to considerable increase or dimi-
nution. Another sough, driven from the level of the
Derwent, is called Wirksworth Moor Sough: it lies
to the east of that town, aud is nearly three miles in
length. It has been observed, that a low level in
the limestone drains an extensive tract of country,
all the waters falling into it, from miles around.

Lead ore is divided into four classes, according to
its degrees of goodness. The largest and best sort
is denominated " Bing;" the next in size, and
nearly equal in quality, is called " Pesey ;" the
third is " Smitham," which passes through the sieve
iu washing ; the fourth, which is fine as flour, and
caught by a very slow stream of water, is termed
" Belland :" 'this is inferior to all the others, on ac-
count of an admixtureof foreign particles. All the ore,
as it is raised from the mine, is beaten into pieces,
and washed before it is sold : this part of the busi-
ness is performed by women, who earn about eight-
pence a day. When the ore is properly prepared,
it is carried to the smelting furnaces. These for-
merly were of two kinds, the hearth, and cupola ;
but the latter is now generally used. The hearth
furnace was formed of large rough stones so as to
make an oblong cavity, about two feet deep and
wide, and fourteen long, into whick the fuel and ore
were placed in alternate layers ; the heat being rais-
ed by means of a large pair of bellows, worked by a
water-wheel. The lead produced by this process
was pure, soft, and ductile ; but a considerable
quantity of metal continuing in the stags, these were
smelted in an intense coak-fire ; and the lead ob-
tained by this means was inferior in quality to the
former. The cupola furnace was introduced into
Derbyshire about seventy or seventy-five years
since, by a physician of the name of Wright. It is
of an oblong form, somewhat resembling a long
chest, the top and bottom of which are a little con-
cave. The fire being placed at one end, and a
chimney at the other, the flame is drawn through the
furnace, in which about 1800 weight of ore is strew-
ed at one time, and smelted by the reverberation of
heat, without toucjiing the fuel. The time required
for this process is uncertain, some ores being work-
ed in six hours, while others require nine, according
to the nature of the substances that are attached to
them. The ore which is united with the spar is
most easily fused ; and sometimes a small portion of
this mineral is thrown into the furnace to accelerate
the process. When the flame is applied to the ore,
great care is taken that it may not be intense, as a
strong heat occasions the lead to fly off with the
sulphur.

The lead, when smelted, is poured into moulds of
difivrcnt sizes, according as it is intended for the
Hull, Bawtry, or London markets. Two blocks
make a pig ; ami eight of these, a fodder. In dif-
ferent parts of the county, a large quantity of this
metal is converted into red lead. This process is
performed in an ovea having three divisions ; the

fire is placed in the two outer spaces, and the lead
in the middle. The flames, reverberating on thfi
metal, convert it into a calx, or powder ; which on
a second exposure to the fire, assumes a red colour.
In the former part of the operation particular care is
employed in duly regulating the heat.

The quantity of lead annually obtained from the
Derbyshire mines cannot be correctly ascertained,
but it may be estimated at an average of between
five and six thousand tons. It has been generally
thought that the trade of late years was on the de-
cline, as the increasing depth of the mines renders
them both more expensive and more difficult to be
worked ; but, from the improvements that have been
made in the art of smelting, and the better methods
employed to relieve the mines of water, by the driv-
ing of new levels, and the erecting of some improv-
ed steam-engines, advantages have been obtained,
which, to a certain extent, counterbalance the in-
creased expences.

Though lead ores generally contain a portion of
silver, none in Derbyshire, that have yet undergone
anal v/at ion, yield a sufiicient quantity of that valua-
ble metal to defray the expences attendant on its
separation. The most common lead ore found here,
is " galena," -which in general lies in smaller or
larger veins and masses ; frequently in nodules,
with " cauk," a name here used for barytes. (jia-
lena is frequently crystallized in cubes, with the an-
gles truncated ; also in the octahedron, and its mo-
difications ; it is of a bright lustre, and flaky frac-
ture. Another variety, when broken, is beautifully
bright and foliated : when exposed to the atmo-
sphere, it decomposes, and becomes tarnished. An-
other kind of galena, on account of its hardness and
granulated appearance whfn broken, is called steel-
grained lead ore. This kind appears sometimes
fibrous, not unlike the common compact ore of anti-
mony. Masses of galena frequently contain small
holes, the surfaces of which being nearly black, ap-
pear as if corroded : sometimes carbonate of lead
appears in its various states and forms ; some of the
chrystals appear transparent, others dirty-white,
and some hare a semi-metallic appearance : the
shape chiefly the prism, and the double hexagonal
pyramids joined at the base. Barytes sometivuoS
contain two, three, or four veins of galena., the whole
not more than two inches and a half broad. These
veins are perpendicular, and aifbrd a pleasing re-
presentation of the large -veins of ore. Spherical
nodules of lead ore are not unfrequently found in
caverns in the mines, whither they must have been
conveyed by water : some of them are hollow, and
contain native sulphur. A pulverulent black-lead
ore, sometimes disseminated on the matrix, appears
to arise from th.i decomposition of the galena, occa-
sioned perhaps by their super-oxygenation.

" Slikenside" (shining, as though polished by art,
on one side) " is a singular variety of galena, of a
bright metallic polish, with a reflection almost equal
to that of a mirror. It appears tliiuly plated on one

DERBYSHIRE.

side of a substance called " kevcl," or " kcblc,"
and generally forms the side of a vein, or a cavity ;
but sometimes composes a kind of double vein, the
smooth surface on each side being closely in contact,
though without the smallest degree of cohesion.
When divided by an iron wedge, or pierced by the
miner's tool, it first begins to crackle, then rends
violently, and explodes with a noise as though
blasted with gunpowder. If the miners neglect to
retreat sufficiently early, they are sometimes wound-
ed by these fragments, which cut them as if
they had been stabbed by a chissel in various places.
A satisfactory explanation of this extraordinary phe-
nomenon has never been given : it occurs chiefly at
Haycliff and Lady-Wash mines at Eyam, and the
Odin mine' at Castleton. In the former, an asto-
nishing explosion happened in the year 1738 ; at
which time, Mr. Whitehurst affirms, the quantity of
200 barrels of minerals was exploded at one blast ;
each barrel being supposed to contain nearly four
hundred weight. At the time of explosion, the sur-
face of the ground was observed to shake, as by an
earthquake. A new variety of slikenside, of a me-
tallic lustre, was discovered a few years ago, coated
with blende, of a light stone colour, sometimes dark
brown, or a fine violet fluor matrix.

Corroded, but perfectly malleable, masses of lead
are sometimes found in old mines, which appear
stalactitic. At an early period the miners were ac-
customed to melt the lead ore in the veins, and these
substances may probably have remained there ever
since. The antimoniated lead ore runs interwoven,
in filaments, like network, and is sometimes accom-
panied with indurated bitumen : this kind is rarely
iridescent. A variety is sometimes met with in oc-
tahedrons beautifully iridescent ; the colours are at
first vivid, but become tarnished, and lose their
beauty on being exposed to the atmosphere. This
kind is generally areompamed with crystallized fluor
affixed to its surface. Sometimes a, variety of car-
bonate of lead occurs, which does not adhere to the
galena : masses have been found finely crystallized
on the surface, of a horn colour, semi-transpa-
rent.

Muriate of lead, in perfect crystals, of a beautiful
tra~* Daren t yellow colour, is sometimes found.
What is cH " glass lead," appears as though it
had undergone *U.e action of fire; is transparent,
and occasionally cry^allized ; but otherwise of an
opake waxy white : it is easily melted with a blow-
pipe. Nodules of carbonated lead have also been
discovered, formed in prisms, and sometimes of a
considerable size, acicular, fibrous, and interwoven,
in the loose earth.

Carbonated nodules are also found in loose ferrugi-
nous earth, granular, and of a shining micaceous frac-
ture, easily reducible to a sandy powder : this variety
might be called sandy lead ore. C rystals are likewise
found appearing semi-metallic; sometimes one part of
tk<; same crystal a dull blue colour, the other a trans-
parent horn colour. A singular kiud of carbonated

lead is found, in ferruginous earth, in nodules, -with
hydrophanous steatite, &.C. appearing' like a decom-
posed breccia, in small veins half transparent. Till
within these few years, these ores attracted so little
attention, that they were not known to contain
lead.

An argillaceous variety, " wheat-stone," is found
in a large vein ; it is of a light stone colour, riot
transparent, very heavy, with black spots and con-
tains arsenic : the fracture is earthy, having traces
of small semi-metallic veins, and a few bright metal-
lic scales ; it is extremely easy of fusion, during
which it emits a strong smell of sulphur and arse-
nic. Phosphate of lead, of a green colour, is some-
times found on barytes, in hexagonal prisms, at-
tached to sandstone. Molybdate of lead, of a fine
yellow approaching to an orange colour, sometimes
occurs in the cavities of galena, and of carbonated
lead : this variety rarely appears.

Galena commonly yields from fifty to eighty per
cwt. at the furnace : many arts are employed in the
dressing to make it appear clean and rich, that it
may fetch a higher price. The carbonate of lead
is so filled with heterogeneous matter, that it rarely
yields more than from thirty to fifty per cwt. ; this
does not produce such ductile metal as the galena.

The regulations of the rights of the miners, and
the dues payable for the ore, in different parts of the
mining, district, are numerous and various. The
principal tract of lead is called the " King's-field :"
this denomination comprises the whole Wapentake of
Wirksvf orth, and part of the High Peak. The mine-
ral duties of King's-field have been from time im-
memorial let on lease : the present farmer of those
in the High Peak is the Duke of Devonshire ; and
those in the Wapentake of Wirksworth the Rolles
family. They have each a steward and bar-master,
in the districts they hold of the crown. The stew-
ard presides as judge in the Barmote Courts, and,
with twenty-four jurymen, determines all disputes
which arise from the working of the mines. The
courts are held twice a year ; those of the High
Peak, at Money-ash ; and those of the Wapentake,
at Wirksworth. The chief duty of the bar-master
is putting miners in possession of the veins they
have discovered, and collecting the ore due to the
Lord of the Manor. If a miner discover a new vein
of ore in King's-field, by application to the bar-
master, he may obtain an exclusive title to it, pro-
vided it be not in an orchard, garden, or high-road.
Possession of it is given in the presence of two jury-
men, by marking out in a pipe, or rake-work, two
" meares" of ground, each containing twenty-nine
yards ; and in a Hat work, fourteen yards square.
When, however, a miner neglects to avail himself of
his discovery beyond a limited time, he may be de-
prived of his vein, and the bar-master may dispose
of it to another adventurer. The other parts of the
bar-master's office, the superintending the measure-
ment ot the ore, and receiving the dues of the lessee
of the crown, are attended with some difficulty,

arising

DERBYSHIRE.

arising from the variety of claims, which differ great-
ly.in different places. In general, a thirteenth of
the ore is due in the King's-field ; but seldom more
than a twenty-fifth is taken. There are also a tithe-
tine, and another called cope ; but the latter is paid
by the buyer of the ore. The Dish, or, as it is
sometimes called, Hoppet, by which the ore is mea-
sured, contains sixteen pints in the High Peak ;
but only fourteen in the Low Peak. In the latter,
the Brazen Dish by which the measures of ore are
rejulated, has the following inscription :

" Tliis Dislie was made the iiy day of October the
iiij yere of the Reigne of Kyni* Henry the vm before
George Erie of Shrowesbury Steward of (lie Kyng's
most Honourable household and also Steward of all
the honour of Tutbury by the assent and consent as
well of all the Mynours as of all the Brtnners within
and adioyning the Lordshyp of Wyrkysworlh Percell
of the said honour This iJishe to Uemayne In the
Moole hall at Wyrkysworth hanging by a Cheyne so
as the Mchanntes or Mynours may have rcsorte to
the same att all tyuies to make the trw Mesnre at the
wine."

History has not recorded the origin of the mineral
laws of Derbyshire ; but there is a statement of Ed-
ward the First having directed the sheriff of the
county to call a meeting, at Ashbourn, to such per-
sons as were^ best acquainted with the rights and
customs of the mines ; on which occasion, the miners
petitioned that their privileges should be confirmed
under the Great Seal, as an act of charity to reserve
them from the danger to which they were exposed.
In the reigns of Edward the Sixth and Queen Mary,
several alterations were made in the mineral laws ;
and within the last thirty or forty years various new
regulations have been adopted at the Great Bar-
mote Courts of the High Peak and Wapentake.

Mineralogists have remarked, that the colour and
texture of the iron ore in this county are various.
Those of the argillaceous kind are the most common,
and are principally used in the iron-works. They
form a tUin stratum in the coal countries, and some-
times enclose shells and coralloids. Calcareous, or
sparry iron ores r of a fine brownish red colour,
sometimes bright yellow, scaly, and dirty brown, are
found in amorphous masses near the surface, and
filling insulated places. The calcareous masses
seem predominant. This sort is very serviceable
to mix with other iron ores ; and, in the manufac-
ture of steel, it is particularly useful.

The iron-stone, or oxide of iron, presents itself
throughout the whole district in which coal has beeu
discovered ; the Chinley Hills excepted. The depth
at which it lies from the surface is extremely vari-
ous ; but frequently, from the great dipping of the
strata, it " bassets out to day" as the miners term
it, when any metallic substance appears on the sur-
face. In such cases, a hole is made like the shaft of
a coal-pit, which is gradually enlarged as it is car-
ried deeper, till the cavity assumes the sbape of a
bell. These shafts are seldom sunk lower than fifty

VOL. n. NO. 46.

or sixty feet ; at which depth, fresh ground is bro-
ken, and new openings are made. From this prac-
tice, the laud receives greater injury by working
iron mines, than those of coal ; and it is, therefore,
not judged expedient to dig for iron ore, unless the
beds are very rich. Their thickness varies from two
to twelve inches. The most valuable beds of iron-
stone, which have yet been discovered, are in Morley-
Park, near Heage, in Wingerworth, Chesterfield,
and 5>tavely. The furnaces, at these places, are of
a circular or conical shape, having the fire with a
blast at the bottom. The furnace being prepared
and properly seasoned, the process of smelting be-
gins ; and alternate layers of fuel, ore, and rtsix are
put in continually day and night ; the fire not being
permitted to go out till the furnace wants repair,
which is after a period of some, years. Coak is in
general used for fuel, and limestone is the universal
flux. The ore previously to being smelted is burnt
in beds in the open air, first with coak, and then
with coal slack : it is afterwards broken into small
pieces and screened. By varying the proportions
of ore, flux, and fuel, different kinds of iron are pro-
duced. When the fusion of the iron-stone begins,
the smelted metal passes through the layers of coak
and limestone, and collecting at the bottom of the
furnace is let it out into the beds of sand, moulded
to the forms required. When first obtained from
the ore, the metal is brittle, and wants the due mal-
leability ; to give it this property, it is conveyed to
the forge, where it is wrought into bars. A pig of
iron is three feet and a half long, and weighs one
hundred pounds. This county produces annually
between fifteen and sixteen thousand tons of iron.

An ore of manganese and iron, called " black-
wad," is met with in different states ; generally in
masses not unlike hard balls of soot, which, being
very loose and friable, crumble to powder on expo-
sure to the atmosphere : when broken, capillary
vein* appear, somewhat of a metallic lustre. If
mixed with linseed oil, it becomes ignited in the
space of forty or fifty minutes. This is much
esteemed by painters for its drying qualities ; but its
chief appropriation has been to ship-painting, and
large quantities have been consumed by supplying
the Royal Navy : before it is used it is generally
calcined. Mr. Wedgewood, in an analysis of this
mineral, found twenty-two parts contained nearly
two of indissoluble earth, chiefly micaceous, one of
lead, about nine and a half of iron, and the same
proportion of manganese.

" Blende," " pseudo-galena," or " black-jack,"
is found in amorphous masses, frequently crystal-
lized, and generally accompanied with fluor and ba-
rytes. It rs of a blackish brown colour, approaoh-
ing to a metallic lustre, and partially transparent.
A variety, called ruby-blende, is crystallized on
calcareous spar, and is of a beautiful transparent
red. Another variety, from its "iridescent hues, is
called pigeon-necked blende.

" Pyrites" is found at Ashover, in a bright silver
c coloured

DERBYSHIRE.

coloured ve'n, running beautifully through transpa-
rent fluor ; some other varieties, of a golden colour,
sprinkled over the surface of the fluor, is also found
here. A number of other kinds occur in different
parts of the county : they arc, in general, exceed-
ingly hard, and strike fire with steel. Martial
ochres abound ; the best, of a rich yellow colour,
found in a cavern termed the Water-hull, near Cas-
tleton ; dark brown ochre is found in lead mines
under the High Tor, at Matlock ; and balls of yel-
low ochre are met with in the shale at Hassop.
These pigments are exceedingly durable. Lapis cala-
minarus, or the calamine stone, is found at Castle-
ton, Cromford, Bensall, and Wirksworth. It occurs
at different depths, and, in general, is found near a
rein of lead ore : sometimes the two minerals run a
considerable way by the side of each other, some-
times they are mixed ; but more frequently, one
ceases where the other begins ; and two good veins
never appear in the same place. This ore is gene-
rally found in a bed of yellow or reddish brown clay.
The beds are very similar to pipe-works, and are
formed of lumps of various sizes and irregular
shapes. The calamine is prepared by being first
washed in the current of a small stream, and then
again in sieves in a vessel of water ; where all ad-
ventitious substances, as cauk, spar, and lead ore,
are separated from it. When, by repeated wash-
ings, it is sufficiently purified, it is calcined in a re-
verboratory furnace of almost the same shape as the
cupola ; after this operation it is again picked,
ground to a fine powder, and washed ; and is then
fit for use. About 500 tons are annually prepared
in this county. Its value is from three to four
pounds a tori in its rough state, but when refined it
is sold at nine or ten. By the variety of operations
it undergoes, before it is sold, about eight parts in
twenty are lost.

Coal mines were wrought in this county so early
as the reign of Edward the Second ; as Thomas de
Chaworth, Lord of Alfreton, made a grant, in this
reign, to the monks of Beauchief, giving them li-
cense to supply themselves with any quantity of coal
within the liberties of Norton and Alfreton. Clay,
and some other substances, frequently separate the
vein of coal, which is sometimes found twenty yards
higher on one side than on the other. The pits are
freed from inflammable air by means of a- small
shaft placed within a few yards of that by which the
coal is drawn up : a pipe is conveyed from the
smaller shaft, through the large one, to that part of
the mine in which the men are working ; about a
bushel of burning coals is then suspended in a vessel
in the smaller shaft : by this contrivance the air
becomes rarefied, fresh air rushes to supply its
place, and a complete circulation is obtained in
every part of the miue. Coal is met with in great
abuiiiiance, and at various depths ; the best is com-
monly of a bright black colour, of the smallest spe-
cific gravity, finely laminated, and on being con-
sumed leaves the fewest ashes. Canal or candle

coal is very compact and light, sonarous when
struck, jet black, burning with a luminous flame,
and capable of receiving- a beautiful polish. Mr.
Piikiugton thus describes the peculiar qualities of
coal, according to the places where it is met with, in
this county : " At Hmalley, West Hallam, and
Ilkeston, the coal is of a shining and lamellar tex-
ture. It is neither very heavy, nor solid : at first
it burns very briskly, but soon buries itself in a white
ash. At Heanor, and Shipley, the hard coat is of a
dull, scaly, compact, and solid texture. It takes fir
with difficulty, and b'irns very slowly ; but when
once lighted, it diffuses a lively and durable heat,
and burns a long time before it is entirely consumed.
It is sometimes attended with a strong sulphureous
smell, and yields a reddish brown ash. At Derby,
Ripley, Swanwick, and Alfreton, the hard coal par-
takes of the qualities of the two sorts which have
been described. It is of a scaly, moderately com-
pact, and rather bright texture. It burns with a
strong and regular heat, and lasts a considerable
length of time : it is pretty free from sulphur, and
mostly gives a white or grey coloured ash. At Nor -
manton, and Blackwell, the hard coal agrees in most
of its properties with that which is last mentioned :
the chief circumstance in which it differs is, that it
is harder and more refractory, and therefore more apt
to sparkle and fly in the fire. At Chesterfield, and
Eckington, the hard coal is but little sulphureous,
and yields a large quantity of ashes. That which is
found at Nevvhall, and Measham, is very nearly of
the same kind. The coal near Buxton is shattery,
and exceedingly sulphureous." Pieces of coal are
sometimes found in this county weighing upwards of
four hundred pounds. Leicestershire, Nottingham-
shire, Lincolnshire, and Northamptonshire, are sup-
plied annually with large quantities ; Sheffield also
receives a great quantity ; and the home consump-
tion is very considerable.

Our limits will not permit us to enter into a mi-
nute detail of the remaining mineralogical substances
of this county ; but we shall present such a brief
sketch, as may be interesting to the general reader ;
referring others, for more scientific and copious ac-
counts, to Whitehurst's " Enquiry into the Forma-
tion of the Earth," Bakewell's " Elements of Geo-
logy," Mawe's " Mineralogy of Derbyshire," Mar-
shall's " Review of Agricultural Reports," &c.

Whitehurst has justly observed, that " the book
of nature is open to all men, written in characters
equally intelligible to all nations ; but, perhaps, in
no part of the world more than in Derbyshire ; for
amidst all the apparent confusion and disorder of the
strata in that mountainous country, there is, never-
theless, one constant invariable order in their ar-
rangement, and of their various productions, or im-
pressions, of animal, vegetable, and mineral sub-
stanees."

The uppermost stratum is argillaceous grit, and
its accompanying beds of clay, coal, iron-stone, &c.
Its thickness is various, according as the surface is

DERBYSHIRE.

more or less uneren. This stratum generally indi-
cates iron ore, which is frequently found under it in
lamhue and nodules. The strata of argillaceous
grit and iron are generally incumbent on coal, which
lies in lamina, of various quality and thickness.
Between the layers of coal, and frequently incumbent j
on that substance, are various strata of a schistose
clay, called by the different names of under-soil,
bind, clu;ich, hard-stone, metal, plate, &c. accord-
ing as it is more or loss indurated. All these aro of
unequal thickness ; being sometimes only a few j
inches ; at others, seven feet. Nodules of iron ore :
are frequently found, which easily divide, and show .
very fine impressions of plants, flowers, coralloids, |
and shells. All the strata, indeed, incumbent on !
coal, whether argillaceous stone, or clay, contain a
givat variety of impressions of vegetables ; ami par-
ticularly the bamboo of India, striated, a:id joined at
different distances ; the euphorbia of the East In-
dies ; the American ferns, corn, gnvss, and many
other species of the vegetable kingdom, not known
to exist in any part of the world in a living state.
These vegetable forms, and the strata containing
them, are considered to be a certain indication of
coal, not only in Derbyshire, but in every quarter of
tke kingdom. The stratum of argillaceous grit may
be observed in the vicinity of Smalley, lleynor,
Derby, Heage, Alfreton, Carnfield, Chesterfield,
and many other places. The surface of the country
where it appears, is in general uniform ; the hills"
are nearly regular, and rise by an easy inclination,
forming vales of considerable extent.

The next stratum is coarse silicious grit, compos-
ed of granulated quartz, and quartz pebbles, of va-
rious sizes, but seldom exceeding a quarter of an
inch in diameter : some retain the sharpness of j
fragments newly broken ; others appear to have i
been rounded by attrition. This stratum is about
120 yards in thickness, and variable both in appear-
ance and texture. A particular variety easily di-
vides with a knife, and being an excellent substitute
for slate,, has become an article of commerce. This
stratum is not productive of minerals ; but there are
some instances of lead ore having been found in it. '
It forms long and narrow mountains, rather than j
hills ; it is uppermost at Wirksworth Moor ; Crom-
forcj Moor, near Winster ; the East Moor ; Birch-
over ; Matlock Town ; the Edge-side Hills ; from
Eyam to Castleton, and various other places. No
impressions either of animal or vegetable figures
have been discovered in it.

Shale, or schistus, the third stratum, is of a dark
brown, or blackish colour, bituminous, and appear-
ing like indurated clay. Its thickness varies from
120 to 150 yards. This stratum is not considered
as generally productive of minerals ; though iron-
stone in nodules, and in thin beds, has sometimes
been found in it ; and also veins of lead ore. In its
sparry veins are frequently cavities, called lochs by
the miners, which are encrusted with a great variety
of fine and rare crystallizations of calcareous spar.

In contains no impressions either of animal or vege-
table bodies ; but impressions of marine substances
are sometimes discovered in it. The waters passing
through it are chalybeate, and frequently warm.

Limestone regularly stratified, but varying con-
siderably in thickness, being in some places not
more than four fathoms, yet in others upwards of
200, is the fourth stratum. It seems wholly com-
posed of marine exuviae, and abounds with a variety
of shells, etitrochi, coralloids, madrepores, and many
other species of crustaceous animals. In it are
found the principal veins or fissures which contain
galena, sulphuret, and native oxyde of zinc, a va-
riety of ochres, fluors, barytes, calcareous crystalli-
zations, pyrites, &c. It lies in laminie, more or less
thick, and U frequently separated, at irregular dis-
tances, by a m.irl, containing adventitious sub-
stances ; in some places only a few inches thick ;
but in others two or three feet. This limestone
forms a variety of beautiful marbles ; some black ;
others of a brown red, much used for chimney-pieces,
and different ornaments ; some mottled grey, and
some of a light stone colour. The limestone in the
Peak Forest is regarded as the bust : it is compact,
sonorous when struck; its fracture, scaly bright.
It is much used for the purposes of agriculture, and
burns to a fine white lime, losing nearly thirty per
cent, of the carbonic gas during the operation, which
occupies about thirty hours in a strong fire. On
the surface of this stratum, rotten-stone is some-
times found, particularly near VVardlow Mire and
Ashford : it is generally accompanied with a silici-
ous substance, in nodules, called chert, which is
likewise found in large detached masses, aiut thin
strata, within the limestone. T iiis substance is full
of marine figures, and animal remains : its origin,
has been commonly attributed to a partial dissolu-
tion of the limestone stratum. The forms and ge-
neral appearance of the limestone mountains are
greatly diversified ; they exhibit evident marks of
interior convulsions of the earth, which have dislo-
cated and thrown the strata near the surface into
every variety of confusion. In many parts they'are
perpendicular, and overhanging ; presenting bare
and rugged forms, and pursuing the wildest direc-
tions. Various openings or caverns, locally termed
shakes, or swallows, exist in the limestone : these
are large fissures, the depth and communications of
which cannot be ascertained ; yet they have been
rendered of great service in several mines, through
being made receptacles for the deads, or rubbish ;
arid have also been appropriated as aqueducts to-
carry off the water. This stratum is uppermost at
Winster, Ashford, Eyam, Buxtou Hills, Moneyash,
the southern vicinity of Castleton, and various other
places.

The next stratum is toadstoue ; a substance ex-
ceedingly irregular in appearance, thickness, and
disposition ; not laminated, but consisting of one
entire mass, aud breaking alike in all directions.
" Toadstoue," observes Whitehurst 3 " contains

blauder

DERBYSHIRE.

bladder holes, like the scoria of metals, or Iceland
lava, and has the same chemical property of resist-
ing acids. It does not produce any minerals, or
disfigured stones, representing' any part of the ani-
mal or vegetable creation ; nor are any adventitious
bodies enveloped in it : neither does it universally
prevail, as the limestone strata ; nor is it, like them
equally thick ; but in some instances varies in thick-
ness, from 6 feet to 600. It is likewise attendee
with other circumstances, which leave no room to
doubt of its being as much a lava as that which
flows from Ilecla, Vesuvius, or Etna."* This sub-
stance forms the surface in many parts of the coun-
ty, beginning in the neighbourhood of Matlock, and
dividing the limestone for a considerable distance :
near Buxton, and particularly at Wormhill in that
neighbourhood, it is of considerable extent, uneven,
and rocky ; but far less so than the preceding stra-
tum. The miners in different parts of Derbyshire
distinguish it by the various names of black-stone,
channel, cat-dirt, and black-clay. The same ap-
pellations, however, are frequently given to sub-
stances which scarcely resemble toadstone in any
respect but colour.

After toadstone, limestone again presents itself;
below which no miners in Derbyshire have yet pe-
netrated.

Such is the general disposition of the superior
strata in this county ; but in particular instances,
the order is somewhat diversified. The Rev. Mr.
Pilkington, in his View of Derbyshire, has remark-
ed, that the position of the strata is governed by one
uniform law, their declination being always towards
those parts of the country where gritstone has ap-
peared on the surface : but the degree of their dip-
ping is various and irregular. In some instances
they dip at the rate of six inches in a yard ; in
others, at twelve; and even eighteen in a similar
space. In particular places, this dipping seems to
be much influenced by the vallies ; the strata on one
side being nearly horizontal ; while, on the opposite,
they have an oblique, or even perpendicular, direc-
tion. At Chesterfield and Ileanor, the position of
the strata is extremely peculiar ; they dip for a con-
siderable space towards one common centre, and by
this means form a sort of bason, or deep circular
cavity.

Whichever stratum, however, in the preceding
general arrangement, whether grit, schistus, or lime-
stone, occupies the surface in any part of the coun-
ty, the subsequent beds invariably follow in the or-

* It may be observed generally, that the arguments by
which the vulcanic origin of the toadstone is Mtpperted, are
founded on the supposition of a centra] fire, the expansive force
of which elevated and burst the incumbent strata prior to the
convuls on that threw them into their present state of confusion.
" Fissures be.ng thus opened over the melted matter, the vio-
lent pressure might cause it to ascend till it met with an ob-
struction superior to the impelling- force; and the lava being
thus circumstanced, would consequently have a proportionable
lateral pressure, and might therefore 'penetrate between the

der enumerated. This rule universally prevails,
except with respect to the toadstone, which only
partially occurs. Those situations in which the in-
cumbent beds of argillaceous grit, &c. have not been
found, are supposed to have been the scenes of ex-
treme disruptions of the earth, in which the upper-
most strata have been swallowed up by the yawn-
ing chasms rent in its bosom by contending ele-
ments.

Calcareous concretions are found in abundance in
almost every part of the Peak. There is scarcely a
cavern but what 'is lined with encrustations of this
kind, assuming almost every possible form, and re-
splendent with an amazing variety of colours. The
transparent calcareous spar is astonishingly variable
in appearance ; yet, when minutely examined, is
discovered to originate wholly from one form, the
rhombic ; though its various combinations can hardly
be enumerated. The fluor spar, or, as it is here
termed, Blue John, is frequently confounded with
calcareous spar, from which, however, it differs es-
sentially. It contains an acid, the most penetrating 1
and corrosive of any we are yet acquainted with, and
which is very different from the carbonic. From its
peculiar properties of corroding glass and silicious
substances, it has been employed in France for en-
graving glass plates. When moderately heated, it
becomes phosphorescent ; in a strong heat, it
melts of itself, and emits fumes that are extremely
noxious ; by a certain degree of heat, its blue co-
lour is changed into a fine red, or reddish purple ;
but with a greater heat, all its colours are discharged,
and it becomes white. Its great beauty lias occa-
sioned it to be manufactured into a variety of urns,
vases, columns, &c. The only mountain where it
can be obtained in sufficient abundance and quality
for the purposes of manufacture, is situated to the
west of Castleton, between Mam Tor and the emi-
nences which compose the Long Cliff; but even
there it is less plentiful than formerly, and its price
has been gradually advanced to 40/. per ton. The
mountain itself appears like an assemblage of vast
rocks of limestone, without connection or regularity,
and is full of openings or caverns of immense depth.
The fluor is found in pipe veins of various direc-
tions ; in caves, filled with clay and loose adventi-
tious substances : it appears in detached masses,
bearing every appearance of having been broken
from the limestone, on which it seems to have been
formed ; for it has frequently that substance for a
nucleus, around which it seems first to have crystal-

strata, and force its way till it lost its fluidity by the coldness
of the adjacent beds. "Being thus extended to some distance,
and passing over other fissures, it mi^ht rill them up more or
less, as they happened to be more or less wide, and the lava
more or less fluid." This hypothesis has received the support
of many scientific characters of our own nation ; but foreigners
have not been equally inclined to adopt it. They observe,
that the Derbyshire toadstone is nothing but a somewhat diver-
sified variety of the Swedish trapp, and by no means volcanic
in its origin.

$ lized,

DERBYSHIRE.

li/,ed, and afterwards increased by accumulation :
frequently, however, the centre is hollow. Some of
the pieces of fluor are u foot in thickness, and have
four or five different and distinct veins ; but such
large pieces are very rare : in general, they are only
about three or four inches thick, some having only
one strong vein, while others present many, but
smaller : those which display a geographical figure,
like a coloured map, are more rare and valuable.
The colouring matter has by some been supposed to
be iron : Mr. Mavve imagines it to be asphalt, con-
taining pyrites in a decomposed state ; but there are
many singular varieties which have not undergone
any analysis.

Alabaster, plaster-stone, or gypsum, is found
principally in large masses, filling up cavities, or
insulated places, in the argillaceous grit, at Elvas-
ton, and Chellaston. It never forms a stratum, but
is generally attended with gravel, strong red clay,
and an earthy covering, which frequently contains
innumerable shells. Some kinds are much harder
than others, and of a closer texture, but it is gene-
rally so soft as to be scraped with the nail. Near
the surface it is striated, and sometimes crystallized,
in which state it bears the name of selciiitc ; beneath,
it is more compact : when calcined, which is 'easily
effected, it forms plaster-of-Paris, and greedily ab-
sorbs water, (jypsum is generally veined with red,
but is frequently variegated with tints of blue and
green. Its chief varieties are capillary or hair gyp-
sum, appearing in delicate milky filaments, three or
four inches long, but so tender as to render it nearly
impossible to be procured perfect : in the Cumber-
land mine, near Matlock, specimens of this kind
have been found with the fibres about eight inches
in length : plumose gypsum, like white and ele--
gantly circled feathers, on limestone ; gypsum rock
alabaster ; striated silky alabaster ; selenite in
transparent prisms, and rhombs ; and green sele-
nite, extremely rare. The more compact kinds of
gypsum are frequently used for architectural pur-
poses, as it is less expensive, and works more freely,
than marble, forming elegant columns, pilasters, and
other ornaments for the interior of buildings. It is
also extremely useful, when calcined, for moulds of
figures, and even for the figures themselves, as well
as for flooring, and other economical appropriations.
< jypsum forms an article of commerce ; considera-
ble quantities are conveyed to the metropolis, and to
all parts of the kingdom ; and, of late years, it has
been extensively employed by agriculturists, as a
niost valuable manure.

Several fossils belonging to the argillaceous genus
have been already mentioned. Others found in this
county, are terra-porcellanea, of a most delicate
white colour, and very fine texture, in a lead mine
at Brassington ; pipe clay, at Bolsover and Newlia-
ven ; potter's clay, of a yellowish or grey colour, at
Brampton, Morley Moor, Heague, and various
other places ; schistus tegularis, roof slate, at Chin-
ley Hills and Hayfield, of a grey colour, and lamel-

VOL. n. no. 4(3.

lar texture, shines with mica, and does not give fire
with steel. Amongst the silicious substances, are
topazine and rose-coloured quartz in hexagonal
prisms, with double pyramids detached. These are
found in a yellowish red earth near Buxton, and
are generally termed Buxton diamonds; they are
very small : amethystine quartz, finely tinged ; with
perfect hexagonal prisms, terminated by two pyra-
mids, detached like the former : pellucid quartz in
fragments, colourless ; some enclosing bitumen ;
these varieties are loose in the limestone : thin la-
minated beds of chert, horn- stone, or petrosilex, are
found near Bradwell, Buxton, Middleton, and other
places : in Peak Forest are numerous chert beds of
various thicknesses ; some are in contact with the
granulated limestone, though limestone full of shells
is both above and below it ; its colour is dove blue :
large quantities of this substance are annually used
in the manufacture of earthen ware, in Yorkshire,
and Staifordshire. Dark green chert, bearing a
resemblance to jasper, has been found near the High
Tor at Matlock. " Of the Barytic order," says
Mr. Mawe, " the most general is the substance
called cauk, or cawk, from its resembling chalk,
which is not found in the north. It occurs in great
quantities, being commonly attendant on lead ore :
the colour is often white, but more frequently a grey-
ish white, inclining to the cream tinge, which some-
times rises to the ochre yellow. It is soft, but pon-
derous : fracture, earthy, sometimes scaly : it often
contains small veins of fluor or blende. Barytes
occasionally occurs crystallized in tabulated rhombs,
on gritstone ; but more generally in delicate tabu-
lated crystals, which, by combination, form spheri-
cal balls. Oiie variety is stalactitic, sometimes with
transparent crystals and native sulphur. The arbo-
rescent barytes is composed of ligaments of various
colours, intervening each other, appearing some-
what like branches with foliage : one variety exhi-
bits dark brown and lilac figures, beautifully inter-
spersed with blue in a geographic form, or like a
coloured map, affording beautiful contrasts. Ba-
rytes has lately been found, confusedly crystallized,
of a sky blue colour ; the fracture foliated. Other
specimens occur in tabulated crystals, opake, white,
half an inch in diameter, but as thin as leaf gold, on
a cellular gypseous matrix, with native sulphur.
Another variety has a plumose appeamnce, being
covered with transparent crystals oi fluor."

This county is remarkable for its extraneous fossils,
which are amazingly numerous, and variable, and
which occur in almost every part. Some classes, how-
ever, are more numerous than others. The entrechi are
exseedingly abundant ; and the number of anomiae
is likewise prodigious : continued beds of the former
may be traced for upwards of twenty miles. The
cone-within-cone coralloid is found in a bed ten
inches deep, on the surface of the shell marble at
Tupton, near Wingerworth ; the cones are ex-
ceedingly distinct. Another fine specimen of the
cone-within-couc coralloid, has been found at Black-
D well ;

.DERBYSHIRE.

well ; and a third at the depth of forty-seven feet at
AUercar, in the parish of Heanor. Coralloids, with
small tubes, have been met with at Eyam, otjffifceing
in every particular with the recent coral found in the
Red Sea, named tubularia purpureu : porpites, and
madrepores with round branches, have also been ob-
tained at the same place. At Stony Middlctou,
some very perfect specimens of pori fungitic have
been met with ; and conite fungitaj have been found
at Ashover ; as well as very elegant screwstoucs.
Mellepores, coral, branched, with the surface and
extremity punctured as if with the point of a needle ;
and tubipores, a congeries of coralline tubes, paral-
leled or variously curved, have been procured at
Middleton Dale. The cornua ammonis abounds in
the black marble of Ashford ; astroites, coril, of tu-
bular texture, with small stars on the surface, and
honeycomb-work withinside, is likewise procured
there. At Castleton, have been found the eoraliina
reticulata, or sea fan ; plates of echini, very curious-
ly formed, the plates pentagonal, with a small point
rising in the middle ; spines of echini ; belcmnites,
cylindrical, but conical at one, and sometimes at
both ends, about three, inches long, anil three quar-
ters of an inch thick ; anomiie, bivalve, one valve
gibbous, and often perforated at the base, the other
plane; retepores ; terrebratulte ; and ostreopectines.
Gryphites, bivalve, oblong, somewhat resembling a
boat, but narrow, and remarkably curved upwards
at one end, the valve plane, has been met with in
the red clay over the gypsum at Chellaston. Hushes,
branches of yew, and a substance greatly resembling
a cauliflower, have been found petrified at Matlock.
A regular stratum of mussel shells has been disco-
vered eleven yards deep at Swanwiek ; and mussel
shells have been found in iron-stone, at Tupton, Ches-
terfield, and Cotmenhay ; at the latter place they
were obtained at the depth of eighty-four yards.
At Ashford, a small alligator, and various groups of
flies, have been found in the black marble ; and also
the tail and back of a crocodile. At Swanwiek, a
beetle in iron-stone, and a butterfly, have been ob-
tained. An entire sunflower, with all the seeds per-
fectly marked, was discovered in an iron-stone over
the bed of coal at Swanwiek ; where also all the fol-
lowing fossils were obtained : the resemblance of a
bamboo ; a flower of chrysanthemum, very perfect ;
a flower of coltsfoot ; equisetum, or horse-tail ; a
plant of maiden-hair ; several plants of fern, very
perfect, in iron-stone and bind ; the cone of a pine
tree ; a branch of a box-tree ; and a s;nall branched
moss : the three last in iron-stone. At Holmesfield,
a resemblauce of the flower of a cactus has been
found. Various other vegetable impressions have
been met with in the iron stone, and bind, t>oth at
Chesterfield and Ncwhall.

It remains to be mentioned, that, amongst the in-
flammable substances which have been discovered in
Derbyshire, the most peculiar and remarkable is the
clastic bitumen, or mineral cahoutchouc. Of late

years, this has been found in various states ; and it
has apparently the same properties as the common
vegetable India rubber. It is generally found be-
tween the stratum of schistus and the limestone ;
rarely, in small cavities adhering to the gangert, or
matrix, and sometimes containing lead ore, fluor,
and other bodies. When first detached, the taste'is
very styptic, as though blended with decomposed
pyrites. It varies in colour, irom the blackish or
greenish brown, to the light red brown, and is easily
compressed ; but sometimes the same piece is less
elastic in one part than another : on burning it, the
smell is rather pleasant. One variety, but very rare,
contains nodules of indurated shining black bitumen,
resembling jet. Another variety has been seen in a
marine shell, in a piece of limestone. A third, but
extremely scarce, has been found of a dull red co-
lour, and transparent, in crystallized floor. A va-
riety yet more rare, but less elastic, appears to be
composed of filaments, and has a singularly acid
taste. The characteristics arc very different from
any other sort, and might probably, if investigated,
account for the origin oi this substance : on cutting,
and in other circumstances, it resembles soft cork,
or old bark from a tan-yard. Indurated bitumen,
appearing like jet, has been found in amorphous
masses, and in globules of a shining black, but some-
times liver coloured : this kind is electric, when
rubbed ; and is sometimes found in barytes. A spe-
cimen has been met with in the centre of an anomia
at Castleton. Petroleum, or roek-oil, is found in
veins of the black marble at Ashford ; when the sun
shines upon the stone, it gently txudes. Stones
containing' a considerable quantity of rock-oil were
formerly met with near Stony Middleton ; and were
.so common, that the miners used to burn the oil they
produced in lamps. Native sulphur has been dis-
covered in the cellular parts of baroselenite, and also
in galena. Veins of pyrites, which the miners have
commonly, but improperly, called sulphur, have
been found in the virgin mines near Bradwell, and
in the Odin mine at Castleton : in the former in-
stance, it was so pure as to ignite with a candle.
Sulphur is sometimes met with in shale.

MINERAL AND MEDICINAL SPRINGS.] In Derby-
shire, a country abounding with fossils, there are, as
we might suppose, numerous medicinal and mineral
waters. Those of the chalybeate and of a sulphu-
reous nature arise invariably in beds of shale, and
are doubtless impregnated with that substance; the
warm" springs also are noticed as appearing near
these beds, though they break out almost exclusively
in a stratum of limestone. Matlock and Buston are
celebrated for their warm springs ; they are also
found at Stony" Middleton ; and there was one for-
merly at Middleton, near Wirksworth, which was
cut off by driving a sough to remove the water from
some lead mines in the neighbourhood. The springs
of Matlock and Buxton are famous lor their medi-
cinal qualities, and are resorted to annually by per-
sons

DERBYSHIRE.

sons of fashion both lor health and pleasure.* Near
the ceufre between Crich and Helper, and within
tlie liberty ot lleage, a martial vitriolic spring rises,
the only one at present known in this county. A
labouring man discovered it some years ai^o in (!!-
tfiug a sou-h to drain some of the neighbouring
grounds. This man had long suffered with, an ttl-

* Dr. Darwin having bestowed much attention upon the
natural history of the Matlock and Buxton waters, we sliall here
take the libeityof introducing some extracts from a letter of
his upon the subject, winch originally appeared in the Rev.
Mr. Pilkington's " View of Derbyshire."

" Several philosopher?,'- observes Dr. Darwin, " have sup-
. j> sed thai the wann springs of this county acquire their heat
from the chemical decomposition of pyrites ; and it was affirm-
ed by the late Mr. Tissington, and has been lately cited in an
ingenious work of Mr. Kirwan on Mineralogy, that the warm
water about Matlock owed its heat lo the blue marl, which is
mixed with pyn'.es, an d is found in thin strata above and below
the beds of lava, or loadstone ; but it has sinc been observed,
that, though warm water \\as found sometimes in these beds of
pyrites and marl, yet, tint no smell or taste then attended it,
which must have occurred, if the pyrites had been in a state of
decomposition ; and secondly, that cold water was found in
these beds oftener than warm.

" The arguments in favour of another opinion appear to me
to be much more conclusive, vi/. that the water ot these springs
is raised in vapour by subterraneous lires deep in the earth, and
that this vapour is condensed under the surface ot the mountain
in the vicinity of the spring.

" I. The heat of these springs has been invariable, perhaps,
for many centuries ; certainly, as long as we have had good
thermometers; which shows that the water, which they arise
fr >m, is in a boiling state in some part of the earth. For as
boiling water acquires a certain degree of heat, viz. 212, the
steam svhieh arises from it (where it is not confined) inu^t al-
ways be of that degree of heat. Now the internal parti of the
earth, a few feet below the surface, being always, botii in winter
and summer, of forty-eight degrees of heat ; it follows, that if
Ihe steam of water, after it is condensed, flows through a sjiven
distance ot the cold earth, it will become cooled from 212 to
some degree ol heat above 48, proportional to the distance be-
tween tlie mountain in which it is condensed, and the place <ii
jts exit: and thus may, for many ages, preserve an uniformity
of the degree of heat, which could not happen, it it was pro
duced by chemical combinations of materials near the suriace
of the eaith.

"2. In the very dry summer of 1780, when all the cold
springs in this part ofthe counlrv e (her totally ceased, or were
much diminished, 1 was well informed on the spot, both at
Mallock and Buxton, that the warm springs had suffered no ob
servable decrease of their water. Whence I conclude, that the
sources of these warm springs were at a much greater depth be-
low the surface of the earth than the cold ones; and that, on
that account, the water must first have been raised in the form
of steam from those greater depths. Another circumstance
hows, that the source of many of these waters is situated be-
neath the origin of the cold springs ; even alter the s tarn which
produces them, is condensed into water; which is, that their
heat con inues always the same both in winter and summer, in
wet sernoiis and in dry ; evincing, that no cold wa!er from tin-
dews, or springs in consequence of them, is mixed with t m si-
sources ot warm water, &c.

" (a) Dr. Priestley, from five ounces of limestone, obtained
1 160 ounce-meaMires of air nine tenths of which was fixed air,
and the other tenth phi igisticated air. From tour minces ot
white spar he obtained 830 ounce-measures of air ; the first

cerous disorder in his leg 1 , which during 1 the conti-
nuance of his labour gradually disappeared, and
when his undertaking was finished he was entirely
cured. This excited an idea that the spring was
medicinal, and on examination it became evident
from the vitriolic taste of the waters. It has been
supposed to contain some quantity of fixed air ; not

I Olil y

" 3. The rocks of limestone in all this part of the counlrv
abound with perpendicular clefts, in which are found the ores
of zinc, lead, and copper; and it is hence probable, that not
only the steam of water at present, which produces these warm
springs, but that those metals themselves, and the (luor, or ba-
roselenite, which attends them, have, in former ages, been
raised into those perpendicular clefts by the subterraneous
lires, which raised the continents and islands from Uie primeval
ocean.

" 4. The existence of central fires in the earth in the early
ages of the world, is demonstrated by the elevation of the solid
parts of the globe above the ocean, and the shattered condition
of its strata, with the immense masses of lava then produced,
which go under the names of loadstone, basaltes, moor- stone,
porphyry, and granite, as are so well explained in Mr. White-
hurst's and in Dr. Button's Theories of the Earth. '1 he .pre-
sent existence of central fires seems probable from the many
volcanoes, which are spiracula, or chimnies, belonging to those
great tires ; and it is probable, that by the escape of elastic va-
pours from these, is owing the small extent ot modern earth-
quakes, compared with those of remote antiquity, the vestiges
of which remain all over the globe. Another argument for the
present existence of immense subterraneous fires, is, that the
great earthquake at Lisbon produced undulations on the lakes
of Scotland; and was felt in the mines o! Derbyshire; (Philos.
Transact.) which could not easily happen, but by a percussion
on one side of a confined fluid lava, which would be propagat-
ed to the other; as striking the greatest blow on one side of a
bladder distended with water, is felt by the hand placed
on the other side: to whicji may be added, that in some
mines the deeper you descend, the warmer you perceive
them, &c.

" 5. Because there are springs of hot water in all countries,
where open volcanoes evidently exUt : whence Irom analogy we
may conclude, that the hot springs in countries where open vol-
canoes have existed, but are not now open, are owing to the
same cause acting in a less powerlul manner.

" r>. Add to this, that it those uaters had been heated by the
chemical decomposition of p rites, some of them at least would
piobablv have retained a strong chalybeate taste, orsulphureous
smell ; or that they would all of them have been impregnated
with some similar material, which, on the chemical analysis of
thi-se waters of Buxton, and Matlock, does not appear to be tho
fact.

" 7. I come now to another circumstance, which very much
corroborates the above theory of Ihe production of these springs
Irom the steam raised from deep subterraneous fires, and not
from any decomposition of pyrites. The strata in this part of
Deibyshire consist of beds of limestone, and of lava, (o'r load-
stone,) which lie reciprocally one above the otheN Now it we
suppose the steam rising from subterraneous fires to be owing
partly to water slowly subsiding upon those fires, and to lime-
stone gradually calcined by them, it. must happen, that the
steam rising through the perpendicular clefts in the supercum-,
bent rocks, must be replete w|th calcareous gas, (or fixed air ;)
with some phlogisticated air. (.1)

portion of which had but one- fourth of fixed air; which, how-
ever, varied in the course of the experiment, bemg once three-
fourths, then one-half, llita one-third of fixed air."

DERBYSHIRE.

only from the number of bubbles which appear, when
first put into a glass at the spring, but also from the
circumstance, that when tightly enclosed in a cask,
or bottle, it will break either, with a slight degree o:
agitation ; an effect attributed to the 'efforts of the
fixed air to make its escape. Besides the beneficial
efficacy of Heage water in ulcerous diseases, it has
been found useful in stopping inward bleedings ; ami
when applied outwardly, is said to have this effect,
as soon, and as completely, as extract of lead.

" If this steam, so impregnated, be condensed in limestone
strata, the fi\ed air in this hot steam will super-saturate itseli
again with calcareous earth (a). Now this is what precisely
happens to the walers of Matlock, which are replete with cal-
careous particles, as appears by the copious deposition ol
tupha, or calcareous incrustations, along the channels in which
they flow, for, in general, it happen*, that springs of water
were themselves rallies from their sources, as is d:.nc by the
water at Buxlon ; but those springs at Matlock have produced
rocks and mountains of sponge-like calcareous slimes between
their fountain!) and the Oerwent, with which all the houses at
Matlock are constructed, ami many of ihe stone fences.

" In the beginning of October, 1780, 1 was present, with my
friend Mr. Edgeworth, at the opening of two of the springs ol
. M.itlock, about 200 yards above their usual places of appear-
ance. We found them both at these new openings about one
degree of heat, or somewhat more, warmer than ;>t their plact-s
of usual exit. The upper one, which could be best seen, issued
from some cracks or fissures in ihe upper suriace of a bed of
loadstone, and belween.il and ihe blue marl which lies over it ;
under which marl it seems to have been condensed, and (hence
to have super-saturated itself with calcareous particles. I ex-
amined this marl by means of acids, and found it to be calcare-
ous, except some shining bits of' whitish pyrites, which had no
appearance of being in a state of decomposition.

" On the contrary, the steam which produces the water at
Buxlon, is probably condensed in the substance of the toad-
stone, or lava, and not in a stratum of marl or limestone, like
the Matlock water; and hence the great difference of their
contents. As one edge of these strata of limestone and lava,
wherever there are springs, is always elevated higher than the
other, it would be easy, by attending to the inclination of these
strata, to discover on which side of the bath is situated the
mountain in which the steam is condensed, which probablv
may not be more than a mile or two from the eruption of the
springs; because, on opening the springs at Matlock, at a place
about 200 yards above the Wells, the water (though already
collected inlo a kind of vein) was cooled more than s degree;
and this cooling must proceed much faster where the water is
diffusely and thinly spread between two contiguous slrala : and
further, as the progress of this water must warm in some degree
the sirrface of the earth, beneath which it passes aftsr its con-

" (a) It may seem extraordinary that fixed air, or calcareous
gas, which is known to precipitate lime from water, should ren-
der limestone more soluble in water. This, however, is evinc-
ed by the experiments ot Mr. Cavendish, who added to lime
water, which had been rendered turbid by means of calcareous
gas, more of the same gas, which enabled the water to re-dis-
solve the precipitated limestone. Water, by a large quantity
of calcareous gas,' will thus, in close vessels, super-saturate it-
self with lime; which will gradually precipitate in ihe form of
limestone, when exposed to the air, by the evaporation of the
superfluous g<i."

" (b) I cannot leave this account of calcareous or hard waters
without adding, that I suppose, from the great affinity between
calcareous earth and saccharine acid, may be explained a cir-

The number of chalybeate waters is very great ;
but the most celebrated spring is at Quarndon, near
Derby. When taken in sufficient quantities, assist-
ed by exercise, it operates as a purgative : it also
proves extremely beneficial to persons of a weak and
relaxed habit. From Dr. Short's experiment it ap-
peared that a pint contained one grain of fixed sak ;
and that two gallons, when evaporated, leit half a
dram of a light-coloured sediment, half of which
was nitrous earth. Its temperature is about forty-
nine

clensation, and particularly at the place of its condensation, it is
not improbable but its course might be detected by observa-
tions made in rimy mornings, or when snow has lain long on
the ground, by the melting or disappearing of it first in that
part ; or, perhaps, by the earlier vegetation ot ihe grass or trees
on those parls ot (he surface. A Mr. Taylor, who once kept
this b.ith, produced earlv vegetables, by conveying a stream of
the warm water under a border of his garden. It this source
should ever be discovered by mining, I suppose the water, by
being received nearer the place of its devaporalion, would be
found of a greater degree of heat, from 82, its pre-,ent heat, up
to 212, or ihe heat of boiling water.

" The contents of the waters of Buxlon and Mullock must
countenance the theory above delivered ; for it steam be raised
from subterraneous furnaces, where limestone is probably in a
stale of calcinalion, much calcareous gas, or fixed air, and some
phlogislicaled air, would arise with Ihe aqueous steam : these
are found in the Buxton water, in the loose slate of bubbles,
according lo the analysis of Dr. Pearson ; and in this state the
Buxton water resembles the waters at Bath, which are said, by
Dr. Priestley, to possess similar kinds of air; and as these airs
seem to be the principal ingredients of both these waters, there
is reason lo believe, both from this circumstance, and from their
success in relieving similar diseases, that iheir medicinal powers
are very similar, &c.

" In the Buxlon water the fixed air is found in loose bubbles,
because it does not meet with any kind of calcareous earth, or
limestone, to combine itself with: in the Matlock water the
contrary occurs ; it has no loose air-bubbles, because the fixable
air is combined with lime, and thus this water is replete with
calcareous tarth in subtile solulion ; and in this respect I sup-
pose resembles the Bristol water.

" By Ihe experiments of Bergman and Scheele, it appears
lhat ihe stony concretions in animal bodies consist of saccha-
rine acid and air, and lhat this acid has a greater affinity than
any other to calcareous earth (b). Now as the saccharine acid
is perpetually generated in Ihe stomach during ihe digestion of
our aliment, it is probable that the salutary effects of these cal-
careous waters, such as Matlock and Bristol, may be owing lo
their saturating the super abumlancy of this saccharine acid,
and that thus they may prevent ihe tendency which some of
our fluid secretions po-.sess, of producing calculous, and per-
^ haps

cumstance, the theory of which has never been understood, and
therefore the fact has generally been doubted ; and that is, that
hard waters make stronger beer than soft ones. I appeal to the
brewers of Burton for ihe fact, who have the soft water of the
Trent running on one side of their brewhouses ; and yet prefer
universally Ihe hard or calcareous water supplied by Iheir
primps. I suppose then 1 may be some saccharine acid in the
malt, (which is nol all of it equally perfectly made into sugar
by the vegetable digestive power of the germinating barley,)
which, by its attracting Ihe calcareous earth of hard waters, may
jroduce a kind of mineral sugar, which, like the true sugar,
nay be convertible into spirii : for a similar purpose, I sup-
>ose lime is used by Ihe sugar-bakers in refining their sugars,
hough (he theory of its effects is unknown to them."

DERBYSHIRE.

ttine and a half. Within a short distance of the
Xvarm spring at Buxton, a chalybeate water, similar
to that of Quarndon, is found ; the only essential
difference is, that the calcareous gas, by which in
the latter iron is held in solution, may be set at li-
berty with a less degree of heat than is requisite for
that at Buxton : its taste too is not so rough and
ferruginous. Morley, GMiesterfield, Tibshelf, Duf-
field, aud Bradley also contain chalybeate waters of
different kinds.

Of the sulphureous waters of Derbyshire, that
which is most in repute rises in the park of Lord
Scarsdale, at Kedleston. It appears very clear and
transparent in a glass ; but in the well, it appears of
a blackish blue colour, tinged with purple ; and any
substance thrown into it, assumes the same hue.
That it is impregnated with sulphur, is evident from
its strong taste aud smell, and also from its chang-
ing silver to a dark copper colour : in its passage
from the well, a whitish sediment is deposited, hav-
ing the appearance of sulphur. That it is also im-
pregnated with other substances, is proved by the
experiments of Dr. Short, who observe*, that eight
pints evaporated, left two scruples of sediment,
twenty-one grains of which were a dark brownish
earth, and the rest salt : in these respects it appears
similar to the water at llarrowgate. Kedleston
water is celebrated for its anti-scorbutic qualities.
Taken inwardly it operates as a diuretic, and affords
relief in cases of the gravel. It has also been found
efficacious, from external application, in cutaneous
diseases, ulcerous complaints, &c. In the summer

haps gouty and bilious concretions ; and prevent the increase
in size of those already formed : on the same principle they
may tend to render purulent matter less acrimonious, as they
are supposed to be of advantage in pulmonary and scrophulous
ulcers, &c."

In addition to the above ingenious remarks of Dr. Darwin,
\ve shall here quote the particulars of a theory, advanced in a
inore recent publication, to account for the Tieat, and also for
the petrifying qualities of the Matlock springs, by Mr. George
Lipscomb, of Birmingham. This gentleman commences with
the following remark: " First, it is well known, from the ex-
periments ot Dr. Percival, and others, that a portion of saline
matter is detected in these waters ; and secondly, it is well
known, that the acid sea salt will dissolve lime in considerable
quantities." He then proceeds: " May we be permitted to
conjecture, that the water of these springs being previously
impregnated with salt, becomes saturated with lime in its pas-
sage through the strata beiore described (beds of limestone
and lava, or foadstonc which lie reciprocally one upon another,)
and is afterwards decomposed by the addition of pyrites dis-
solved in rain water, which percolates through the stipercum-
bfnt strata ! For pyrites containing sulphur, the heat which
Uikes place during the solution ot pyrites, will necessarily dis-
engage a certain portion of its acid": and sulphuric acid will
immediately unite with lime when held in solution by the
weaker acids ; and when united with it, fall down in what is
cUemkally denominated calcareous si.lphate ; and heat is again
generated by the process. The following circumstance will
appear to support tfiis hypothesis.

" i. That there is at present in the Mullock water, a much

greater quantity of calcareous matter than common water is

Known to be capable of holding in solution, without (he assi t-

ance of an acid. 2. That muriate ol iron, which would be ne-

VOL. II. NO. 40.

it is frequently used by the inhabitants of Derby as
a substitute for malt liquor : the charge of carriage,
which is one penny per quart, affords stibsistence
for a few poor people of the neighbourhood. The
temperature of the spring is about forty-seven de-
grees. A few other sulphureous springs are found
in different parts of the county, but the examination
of them hitherto has been very slight.

ETYMOLOGY.] It appears probable that Derby,
and consequently Derbyshire, derives its name either
from the river Dcrwent, called by the British Deur-
winden, or the winding of the water, and bye, the
Saxon word for a habitation ; or, from the Saxon
term Deoraby, which has the same meaning. A
traditional assertion, however, prevails, that the site
of the town was formerly a park stocked with deer,
whence Dcer-by ; this is supported by reference to
the town arms, exhibiting a buck cone-hunt in a park.
But this supposition is overturned, when it is con-
sidered, that the two former terms prevailed, long
before the introduction of heraldic emblems. To
instance how precariously the arms of corporations
were taken up, we need only mention Oxford. Tho
magistrates of that place, ignorant that it derived its
name from Olsleyford, adopted the device of an ox
in a ford.

GENERAL HISTORY.] The civil and military his-
tory of this comity is less important than that of any
which it has yet been our task to notice. Previously
to the Roman invasion it formed a part of the nation
of the Coritani, which occupied also the counties of
Nottingham, Lincoln, Rutland, Leicester, andNorth-

cessarily formed by the marine acid uniting with the iron of
the p\ rites, after ihe I'urmiT had been disengaged from the
lime by the sulphuric ;icid which hail previously existed in
combination with the p\ rites, is most perfectly soluble in water,
but may be detected tin-rein by the purple colour which U
communicated by the addition 01 the infusion of galls, as in the
experiment made by Dr. IVnnington, of Cambridge. 3. That
on a chemical analysis oi the calcareous encrustations deposit-
ed by the water, they have bern tound to contain a small por-
tion of iron mixed will) sulphate of lime: and Dr. Short de-
tected the presence of iron also, in the residuum procured by
co-operating the water, soivu; of the particles in it being at-
tracted by the loadstone. In this manner," continues Mr.
Lipscomb, " all the phenomena observable at Matlock, and in
similar >prings may, I think, be reasonably accounted tor, on
principles well understood, and capable ot "the clearest demon-
stration ; and 1 must beg leave, to add, that, since the above
remarks were committed to paper, a circumstance has been
presented to my observation, \\ Inch so strongly corroborates
them, that it may b considered as little short of the demon-
stration resulting fiom synthftical experiment.

" Having, at the suagestion of my learned and ingenious
friend, Dr. Uache, been induced to "investigate the effects of
carbonic .acid upon lime water, by blowing through a small
tube into a glass containing a port on of that liquid, carbonate
of lime was speedily produ.-ed in considerable quantity : we
then dropped in a litile sulphuric acid, which occasioned the
precipitate to be dissolved with great facility ; and the liquid,
thus restored to its original transparency,, was suffered to stand
undisturbed tor several da>s, at the end of which, the sides and
rdge- of the glass were covered with a transparent crjstalliza-
tion, exactly simi'ar to the spar and stalactic found in" the sub-
terranean caverns near Matlock."

E ampton.

DERBYSHIRE.

ampton. The term Coritam is of uncertain deri-
vation ; but probably it had its origin in the British
word Corani, or Coraniaid ; appellations denoting
men who are liberal, generous, or profuse. In the
Welch Triades, the Coranians are spoken of as one
of the " three molestations that came into this island,
and never went away again ;" and in another an-
cient memorial in the Welch language, they are
classed amongst the seven nations which invaded
Britain. The order of their coming is placed im-
mediately before that of the Romans. By those
people, Derbyshire was comprised in the division
FJavia Ciesariensis ; but during the Saxon domina-
tion, it became part ot the kingdom of Mercia ; and
its inhabitants, in conjunction with those of Notting-
hamshire, were distinguished, from their situation
being principally on the northern side of the river
Trent, by the name of Mercii Aquilonarcs. From
this period, the history of Derbyshire, although the
county was the scene of many conflicts between the
Saxons and the Danes, appears to be so blended
with that of the kingdom in general, as almost to
defy separation.

ANTIQUITIES.] The antiquities of this county are
not of the first order in point of extent, or of inter-
est. At times, however, various Druidical, Roman,
and Saxon remains have been discovered ; but, as
those which are entitled to notice will be duly de-
scribed in their respective places, we shall not here
detain the reader by any specific enumeration. Of
buildings, All Saints Church, at Derby ; Beauchief
Abbey ; Bolsover Castle ; Castleton Castle ; Cod-
nor Castle; Dale Abbey; Gressby Castle ; Melborn
Castle, &c. will repay the attention of the antiquary.
There are no itinerary Roman stations, of note, in
this county ; but the military way, which comes out
of Warwickshire, leads to Derby.

CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS.] Derby-
shire is dividad into six hundreds, as follow : Ap-
pletree, High Peak, Morleston and Litchurch,
Repton and Gressley, Scarsdale, and Wirksworth.
These hundreds are subdivided into one hundred
and thirty-five parishes, and six parts of parishes.

The administration of the civil policy of this and
the adjoining county of Nottingham appears to have
been generally entrusted to the same chief officers,
till the reign of Henry the Third : the sheriff was
the same ; and the assizes of both districts were held
at Nottingham ; but about this period the burgesses
of Derby purchased the right of having the assizes
for their own shire held alternately at their own
town. This arrangement continued till the year
1560, when tin act was passed for allowing a sheriff
to each county : from this time, with a few excep-
tions, the assizes have been holdeu at Derby.

This county ?s in the province of Canterbury, and
diocese ot Liitchfield and Coventry.

PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION.] Derbyshire
returns only lour mrMnbers to Parliament ; two for
the county, an-d two for the borough of Derby. It
is understood, that the interest of the Duke of De-

vonshire returns those for the borough, and also on
for the county.

MABJCET'IOWNS.] There are eleven market-towns
in this county, of which the following is a list :

Derby

DronefieUl
Ticleswell

Alfreton

Ashborne

Bakewell

Bolsover

Cliapel-in-le-Frith

Chesterfield

Winster
Wirksworth

TRADE, MANUFACTURES, &c.] This county is the
seat of various extensive manufactures. It partici-
pates with Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire in the
manufacture of stockings ; with Lancashire in that
of cotton ; and with Yorhshire in those of woollen
cloth and iron. At Chesterfield, a considerable
quantity of iron is employed for cast goods, in an
unwrought state : this metal is also manufactured in
the neighbourhood of Sheffield, and in some other
parts of the north-east district of the county. The
High Peak, bordering on Yorkshire, is the principal
seat of the wootten manufacture. Cotton is manu-
factured in different modes, and in various parts of
the county ; but, at Cromford, and Belper, the prin-
cipal factories, the cotton, as will be seen by the ma-
chine which was invented by the late Sir Richard
Arkwright. The silk manufacture is, in a great
measure, confined to the town of Derby ; but the
number of frames employed, including those on which
silk and cotton stockings are wrought, has been esti-
mated at from thirteen to fourteen hundred. The
hosiery business is in the most flourishing state at
Litton, near Tide-swell, and in those parts which
border on Nottinghamshire. A manufacture, pecu-
liar to this county, and almost confined to the town
of Derby, is that of spar ornaments, which are here
produced in great variety, and of exquisite beauty.

POPULATION.] In the year 1700, the population
of this county was estimated at 93,800 ; in 1750, it
had increased to 109,500 ; and, according to the
Parliamentary Population Returns of the year 1801,
it had still further increased to 161,142; of whom
79,401 were males, and 81,741 females : 39,516
were returned as being employed in trade, manufac-
tures, &c. 31,743 in agriculture, and the remainder
in other pursuits. In the year 1811, as appears at
length from the annexed table, the population ef
Derbyshire was composed of 91,494 males, and
93,993 females ; making a total of 185,487 : the
number of inhabited houses was 35,658, and of those,
which were uninhabited and building, 1418 : the to-
tal number of families was 27,440 ; of which 14,283
were employed in agriculture, 15,825 in trade, ma-
nufactures, or handicraft ; and 7332 in other pur-
suits. The scale of mortality in this county, upon
an average of ten years, is found to be about one in
fifty-six. The average of baptisms is one to thirty-
three ; that of marriages one to one hundred and
thirty-seven. From the scale of mortality, Derby-
shire appears to be one of the sixteen healthiest
counties in Great Britain.

Summary

DERBYSHIRE.

Summary of the Population of the County of. Derby, as published by Authority of Parliament in 1811.

HOUSES.

OCCUPATIONS.

PERSONS.

>.i

* -

>. .

.if

5 ^

U.S 4,-

"5.= i o

^r ^ J'

o .

til

2 c ^^

Total

WARDS, &c.

./> ^. ; "

y> ^"^ "T

u 8 5O

Males.

Females.

~~ "c

J-J

-^ '"H.-C 3

5 'o ~ "

Persons.

* \

5*1

S 5 So

BBI

| e^

to -C

^ . 2 ^

4904

5243

2709

1944

590

12849

13501

26350

High Peak

7179

741 1

347

2610

28Q9

1902

18303

18865

37168

Morleston and Litchurclt

5555

5773

114

2136

3001

636

14535

15089

29624

Repton and Gressley

2988

3123

1787

925

411

7532

7691

15223

8284

8661

284

3379

3103

2179

20385

21 1 17

41502

4104

4305

164

1567

1571

1 167

9655

10665

20320

2644

2924

142

2382

447

5978

7063

13043

Local Militia

2257

Totals

35658

37440

222

1196

14,283

15825

7332

91494

93993

185487

CHIEF TOWNS, PARISHES, &c.

ALFRETON.] This little town, supposed to have
been built by, and named from the renowned Alfred,
is situated in the hundred of Scarsdale, 16 miles
north-north-east from Derby, and 141 J north-north-
west from London. The market, which is a consi-
derable one for corn, is holden on Fridays ; and
there are two fairs, on the 31st of July, and the 22d
of November.

Tradition states, that the royal founder had a pa-
lace at Alfreton. The church is a rude structure,
with an embattled town and pinnacles. Here are
two free-schools.

The inhabitants of Alfreton are chiefly employed
in the manufacture of stockings, and in the neigh-
bouring coal-works ; but a few of them derive their
living from the manufacture of brown earthen-
ware.

At a remote period, the manor of Alfreton be-
longed to a family, which took its surname from the
place; one of whom, thn founder of Beauchiei' Ab-
bey, has erroneously been considered as one of the
murderers of Thomas d Becket, Archbishop of Can-
terbury. The joint heiresses of De Alfreton mar-
ried, about the time oi' Henry the Third, to Cha-
worth and Lathom. The interest of the latter was
sold to Chaworth, in whose family and name the
estate continued till the time of Henry the Seventh,
when it was conveyed, by marriage, to John Or-
mond, Esq. and afterwards to the Babingtons of
Destricke, who sold it to the Zouches of Codnor
Castle. It was subsequently purchased by the
Morewoods, and in that family it continued from the
early part of the seventeenth century to the death of
the last heir male, who left it to his widow, who
married the Rev. Mr. Case, who assumed the name
of Morewood. The family scat occupies an elevated
and pleasant spot.

Mr. Pilkington mentions, that, at a place called
Greenhill Lane, at some distance from Alfreton, an
urn, containing about 700 Roman coins, was found
by a labouring man, whilst employed in repairing a
fence.

ARBELOWS.] The Arbor-Low, or Arbelows, a
Druidical circle, surrounded by a ditch and vallum,
situated between two and three miles north-east of
Newliaven, at a short distance beyond the Roman
road from Buxton to Little Chester, is justly consi-
dered as one of the most remarkable monuments of
antiquity in this county. Less lofty than some of,
the neighbouring eminences, it yet commands an...
extensive view, especially to the north-east. Its
area is about 150 feet in diameter : from a slight
declination of the ground towards the north, it ap-
pears, at certain points, somewhat elliptical. The
stones which compose this circle, or ellipsis, avf
rough and unhewn masses of limestone, about thirty
in number, several of which are broken. Most of
them are from six to eight feet in length, and three
or four broad in the widest part ; their thickness is
more variable, and their respective shapes are differ- -
ent. They all lie on the ground, and generally in
an oblique position ; but the opinion, that the nar-
rowest end of each pointed towards the centre^ in
order to represent the rays of the sun, the supposed
object of worship, is inaccurate ; for they almost as
frequently point towards the ditch, as otherwise.
Whether they ever stood upright, as most of the
stones of Druidical circles do, would not be easy to
determine : Mr. Pilkington was informed, that a
very old man remembered, when a boy, to have seen
them standing obliquely on one end. The view of
the stones themselves^ however, and their relative
situations, indicate the contrary. Within the circle
are some smaller stones, scattered irregularly ; and
near the centre are three larger ones, erroneously
supposed to have once formed a cromlech. The
8 width

DERBYSHIRE.

width of the ditch which immediately surrounds the
area on which the stones are placed, is about eigh-
teen i'eet, and the height of the bank, or vallum, on
the inside, is from eighteen to twenty-lour feet ; but
this varies throughout the whole circumference,
which on the top is full 700 feet. Tho vallum seems
to have been formed of the earth thrown up from the
ditch. To the enclosed area are two entrances, each
of the width of thirty or thirty -six feet ; and open-
ing on the north and south. On the east side of the
southern entrance is a large barrow, standing in the
came line of circumference as the vallum, but wholly
detached, excepting at the bottom. In this barrow,
which was opened some years ago, the horns of a
stag were discovered. Westward, about the dis-
tance of half a mile from Arbor-low, in another large
barrow, called End-low, ashes and burnt bones have
been found. Numerous barrows may be seen from
this point on the distant eminences ; and in some of
them, urns, human bones, ashes, &c. have occasion-
ally been found. The names of several places in
this neighbourhood are also indicative of antiquity,
though the places themselves are now of little ac-
count ; as Aldwark, five miles south of Arbor-low,
on the Roman road from Buxton to Little Chester ;
Aldport, on another ancient way leading from Ald-
wark towards Bakewell, &c.

Between Arbor-low and Moncyash, about a mile
and a half from the former, is a huge block of lime-
atone lying on the heath, and having a circular ca-
vity on the top. By some, this has been denomi-
nated a rock-bason. Its diameter is about nine or
ten inches, and its depth eighteen or twenty. The
interior is rugged and uneven ; and has somewhat
of the appearance of a corkscrew ; though the hol-
lows do not all run into each other- This excava-
tion is most probably naturaL

ASHBORNE.] This is a neat market-town, de-
lightfully situated in a rich valley, on the east side of
the river Dove, over which it has a stone bridge.
It is in the Wapentake of Wirksworth, 13| miles
north-west by west from Derby, and 140 north- west
by north from London. It has a market on Satur-
day ; and seven annual fairs as follow : February
13, for horses and horned cattle ; April 3, May 24,
and July 5, for horses, horned cattle, and wool ;
August 16, October 20, and December 29, lor horses
and horned cattle.

* The residence of the -Cokaines, at Ashborne, may be
traced, with certainty, from the time of Henry the Third.
We find a John Cokaine, who, in tbe reign of Edward the
1 hird, represented this county in several Parliaments and
Councils; and another John Coka'me who was knighted by
Henry the 'Fourth at the 'battle of Shrewsbury, and slain in that
conflict. The youngest son of the latter was Chief Baron of
.the Exchequer in the third year of Henry the Fourth; a Jus-
tice of the Common Pleas in the sixth^of the same rei^n, and in
the second of Henry the Sixth. He lies buried in the church
-of Ashborne ; his tomb is adorned with the figures of himself
and his lady, carved in alabaster. The family of Cokaine,
(pHudl lately resided at Cokaine Hatlev, in Bedfordshire, was
.descended from this Judge. Thomas Cokaine, of Ashborne,

From the descent of the Derby road, the view of
Ashborne, which presents itself embosomed amongst
the hills, is beautifully picturesque. The town is
divided into two parts, by a little rivulet, called the
Henmore : the more southern part is denominated
Compton, anciently Campdore. Agriculture, and
the manufacture of cotton, which has of late years '
rapidly extended in this neighbourhood, constitute
the chief employments of the inhabitants, the num-
ber of which is about 2,112.

Ashborne, in the time of William tiic Conqueror,
was a royal manor, having its church and priest,
with many dependant villages. It \\;\s granted, by
King John, to William de Ferrers, Earl of Derby :
but in the following reign it was seized by the crown,
on the rebellion of Robert de Ferrers, son of Wil-
liam. Edward the First bestowed it on his brother,
Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancashire ; and it re-
mained attached to the Earldom and Duchy of Lan-
caster till sold, with many other estates belonging to
the Duchy, by Charles the First. In the reign of
Charles the Second it was purchased from the Cokes
of Melbourn, by Sir William Boothby, Knt. and Bart,
whose lineal descendant, and male heir, Sir Brooke
Boothby, Bart, the present owner, is well known for
his classical attainments and poetical talents.

William Rufus gave the church of Ashborne to
the church of St. Mary of Lincoln ; and the patron-
age, with the valuable rectorial tithes and glebe, be-
long to the Dean of the cathedral of Lincoln. The
present church is supposed to have been finished iir
the year 1241 ; as there is a memorial in brass, of its
dedication to St. Oswald, at that time. It is in the
form of a cross, with a square tower in the centre,
terminated by a lofty octagonal spire, enriched with
ornamental workmanship, and pierced by twenty
windows. The roof is supported by several pointed
arches : the interior is spacious, but not commodi-
I ously disposed, though galleries have been erected
j for the convenience of the congregation. It contains
I many monuments of the Cokaines, * Bradburnes,
: and Boothbys : and in the windows are numerous
! armorial bearings in stained glass. The tomb which,
! some years ago, was erected in this church, from the
[ able chissel of Banks, for the daughter of Sir Brook*
j Boothby, is well entitled to attention. On the top
1 is the figure of the deceased, in marble, lying on her
side ; and around the tomb are memorial inscrip-

the representative of the eldest branch, was knighted for his
valour at the battle of Spurs under Henry the Eighth. Sir
Aston Cokaine, in the reign of Charles the Second, was the
last of tliis family who resided at Ashborne. He was a consi-
derable sufferer," for his attachment to the cause of Charles lit*
First, and gave the last blow to an ancient and venerable in-
heritance, whose first decline began in the reign of James.
Sir Aston was a great writer of verses, consisting chiefly
of genealogical history, a subject but ill according with the
smooth current of Pierus. Sir William Cokaine, descended
from a younger branch of this family, was Lord Mayor of
London in 1619; and bis son Charles," in 164'-', was made an
Irish Peer, by the title of Viscount Cullen.

tions.

DERBYSHIRE.

t\ons, in English, Latin, Italian, and French.
first of these is as follows :

The I

To PENILOPE,

Only Child of SIR BROOKE and DAMK SUSANNAH BOOTHBY,
Bom April XI. 178J. Died March 13, 1791.
She was in form and intcller t most exquisite.
The unfortunate parents ventured their all
. On this trail bark, and the wreck was total.

Another monument, to the memory of Sir B.
Boothby, Bart, and Dame Phoebe, his wife, the for-
mer of whom died in the year 1 781), and the latter in
1788, presents the following verses :

Here, bjarneless pair, with mild affections blest,
Belov'd, respected, much lamented, rest:
Life's shelter' (I vale secure in peace ye trod ;
Your practice, virtue ; your reliance, God.
Long'duys, long loves, indulgent Heav'n beslow'cl,
And sweet content to gild your calm abode ;
Friends, who through life their faith utialit-rM kept;
Children who lov'd, who honor'd, and who wept:
Heroes and Kings, life's little pageant o'er,
Might ui^h their trophied marbles were no more.

At a little distance from the church, is a free
grammar-school, which was founded, in the time of
Elizabeth, by the voluntary contributions of Sir
Thomas Cokaine, Knight, William Bradbume, Esq.
and other natives of this place and its neighbourhood,
some of whom wen: at that time wealthy tradesmeli
iu London. This school is under the patronage and
direction of three governors and twelve assistants,
all of whom must be resident householders of Ash-
borne. The head master is to be of the degree of
Master of Arts, and has a house and garden for
himself and family, adjoining to the school, with a
salary of nearly 100/. a year: the under master has
a house, and about 30/. per annum : the children in-
structed here must be those of the town and neigh-
bourhood. There is another free-school here, for
educating poor boys and girls, the master and mis-
tress of which have each 10/. a year.

A little way from the entrance of the town, from
Derby, is a neat chapel, and a row of alms-houses,
for six poor men or women. They were erected
and endowed in the year 1800, by a native of Ash-
borne, named Cooper, who, when a boy, followed
the humble occupation of brick-making ; but, becom-
ing disgusted with the employment, he wont to the
metropolis, and, by frugality, had the good fortun
to acquire considerable property.

The town has several hospitals, for the reception
and support of ancient and decayed housekeepers;
and there is a provision, of a similar nature, for four
clergymen's widows.

Ashbernc Hall, the seat of the Boothbys, was, at
a very early period, -the residence of the Coka'mes,
who, in the reign of Charles the Second, sold it to
Sir William Boothby. The mansion is not remark-
able for architectural beauty ; but, within, every part
is disposed with taste and elegance. Many of the
pictures are valuabla; and the library contains a

VOL. II. - NO. 47.

choice collection of classic and polite literature. The
situation is low; but the park and gardens have
been laid out iu a style of beauty and gracefulness,
which compensates for the want of scenery, of a more
picturesque nature.

ASHFORW.] The village of Ashford, or, as it is
sometimes called, from the lowness of its situation,
Ashford-iu-the- Water, is seated on the banks of the
Wye, two miles north-west by west from Bakewell,
to which parish it is a chapelry. Edward Planta-
genet of Woodstock, Earl of Kent, and after him,
the Hollands, Earls of Kent, and in later times, the
Nevilles, Earls of Westmoreland, had a residence
here, of which a moat only remains. Sir William
Cavendish, the favourite of Cardinal Wolsey, pur-
chased this estate of -an Earl of Westmoreland, and
the Duke of Devonshire, descendant of that family,
still continues the proprietor. The works, in this
village, for sawing and polishing marble, were the
first ever established in England. They were con-
structed originally by Mr. Henry Watson, of Blake-
well, about seventy or seventy-five years ago; but
though he obtained a patent to secure the gain aris-
ing from this invention, the advantages were unequal-
to his expectations. Mr. John Platt, architect, of
Rotherham, in Yorkshire, subsequently rented the
quarries at Ashford, where the black marble is pro-
cured, of the Duke of Devonshire ; and also those in
which grey marble is obtained, at Richlow Dale,
near Moneyash. These are the only quarries of that
kind now worked in Derbyshire. The machinery is
similar in construction to that in the marble and spar
works at Derby ; and, like that, is put in motion by
water. One part, however, called from its circular
motion the Sweeping Mill, is> different : by this, a
floor, of eighty superficial feet of marble slabs, is
levelled at one time.

ASHOVEB.] The village of Ashover is in the hun-
dred of Scarsdalc, six miles and a half north-west
by north from Alfreton. It is of considerable anti-
quity, being mentioned in the Domesday Book, as
having a church and a priest. Iu the church is an
ancient font, supposed to be Saxon : the base is of
stone ; the lower part is of an hexagonal form, the
upper part circular, surrounded with twenty figures
in devotional attitudes, embossed in lead, in orna-
mental niches. Some aiu-iont monuments, in memo-
ry of the Babingtons, who for a long time were
seated at Dithicke, a chapelry in this parish, are in
the church. Anthony Babington, of this family, was
executed for high treason in the reign of Queen Eli-
zabeth, for having engaged in a conspiracy to de-
stroy that Princess. On the declivity of a hill on
Ashover Common, is a rockiiig-stoue, called Robin
Hood's Mark, which measures about twenty-six feet
in circumference. From its extraordinary position,
it appears not only to have been the work of art, but
to have been placed with great ingenuity. About
200 yards to the north of this is a singular shaped
rock, called the Turning Stone, nine teet high : it is
supposed to have been a rock idol.

e Overton

DERBYSHIRE.

Overtoil Hall, in the -vicinity of this village, is a
small but pleasant scat belonging to Sir Joseph
Banks, the President of the Royal Society.

BAKKWELI,.] The ancient market-town of Bake-
well, in which the petty sessions for the High Peak
are holclen, is situated on the western bank of the
Wye, 26 miles north-north-west from Derby, ami
152{ north-north-west from London. Tlis regular
market-day is Monday ; but, oflate years, the mar-
ket, which has dwindled into insignificance, has been
kept on Friday. The fairs are on Easter-Monday,
Whit-Monday, the 29fh of August, the Monday af-
ter the 10th of October, and the Monday after the
llth of November.

Bakewell parish is the most extensive in Derby-
shire : it contains nine chapels of ease ; its length,
from north-west to south-east, is more than twenty
miles, and its breadth upwards of eight. The pas-
turage in this neighbourhood is remarkably good.

The town of Bakewell, or Bath-quelle, appears to
have derived its name from its bath well ; the im-
mediate site of which has been several years occu-
pied by a collector of minerals and fossils for private
cabinets, &c. In the Saxon Chronicle, the town is
called Badecanwyllan ; a circumstance which in-
duced Mr. Bray to conjecture that the bath had been
long in use previously to the year 694, when Ed-
ward the Elder ordered a town to be built in the
vicinity, and strongly fortified. From the circum-
stance of a Roman altar, and other antiquities, hav-
ing been discovered here, there can be no doubt that
Bakewell was a place of some note in the time of the
Romans.

At the Conquest, Bakewell had two priests and
a church. The manor then belonged to William
Peverel, whose son gave two parts of the tithe of his
demesne of Bakewell to the monastery of Lcnton in
Nottinghamshire. The remaining part of the tidies,
with the glebe and patronage of the church, was
given to the dean and chapter of Litchfield, by John,
Earl oi Mortaigiie, in whom the estates of the Pcve-
rels became, vested. The manor afterwards belong-
ed to the Gernons of Essex, one of whom had a
grant of a fair to be held here, from Henry the Third,
lu this family it continued till the reign oi' Henry the
Seventh, when it was sold to the Vernons, of Mnd-
don, from whom it descended to the ducal family of
Rutland, in which it remains.

Bukewell church is an ancient structure, situated

* This distinguished character, whose perseverance, and
admirable inventions, raided him, from one of (he must humble
occupations in society thut of a barber to affluence and
honour, was the youngest of thirteen dvldren. He was born
in the year 1732, al Preston, in Lancashire. A considerable
manufacture of linen goods, and of linen ami < olton mixed,
was then carried on in 'hat neighbourhood. Mr. Arkwri^ht
had an opportunity of becoming intimately acquainted with the
various operations; and, being a man ot superior powers, he
directed his thoughts to the improvement of tbe modi; ol spin-
ning, which had probably beeu conducted for ages without

. '"' 1

on an eminence, in the form of a cross, with an octa-
gonal tower in the centre, from which rises a lofty
spire. It exhibits the architectural style of three
different periods. The western part of the nave is
of plain Saxon architecture ; but the external arch
of the west doorway is enriched with Saxon orna-
ments. The greater part of the rest of the church is
apparently the work of the fifteenth century ; but
the pillars which support the tower are evidently
older than that period, though not so ancient as the
west end of the nave. Amongst the monuments de-
serving attention in this fabric, is a small but very
beautiful one to the memory of Sir Godfrey Fol-
jambe and his Lady, who were the founders of a
chantry here in the reigu of Edward the Third. The
arms upon it are evidently those of Foljambe and
Darley : the colours were, some time ago, traced
with great care, and restored. Beneath an arch in
the vestry is the tomb of Sir Thomas de Wednesley,
who was mortally wounded in the battle of Shrews-
bury, under Henry the Fourth : his recumbent figure
on the tomb is dressed in rich armour. In the mid-
dle of the chancel is a small alabaster tomb, for the
heir apparent of a Vernon, who died in the reign of
Edward the Fourth ; and in the Newark (the burial-
place of the Vernons and Manners) are the tombs of
Sir George Vernon, of Haddon, and his two ladies ;
Sir George Manners, the son of Sir John, and his
lady. Sir George Vernon and his two wives are re-
presented in recumbent postures: Sir George ap-
pears in armour, with u sureoat of arms containing
many quarterings with those of Vernon : his ladies
are so much alike, that, a trifling variation in their
dresses excepted, they appear as cast from the same
mould. The other monuments arc large and costly;
but there is not any thing particularly excellent in
the workmanship. In the church-yard is an ancient
stone cross, supposed to have been conveyed hither
from some other place. The sides are diversified by
ornamental sculpture. On the front are several
rudely carved figures ; the upper compartment ap-
pears to have represented a crucifixion ; but as the
top of the cross is broken off, the intention can hardly
be ascertained.

Near the entrance of the town, from Ashford, is a
mill for the carding, roving, doubling, spinning', and
twisting of cotton, in which some hundreds of per-
sons of both sexes are employed : the mill was erect-
ed by the late Sir Richard Arkwright,* the founder

j thought of change. The first hint respecting the means of
I effecting this imp'rovemcnt, he said he accidentally received
from seeing a red hot iron bar elongated by being passed
j between iron cylinders. The difficulties which he experienced
i before be could bring bis machine into use, even after its con-
struction was sufficiently complete to demonstrate its value,
I would, perhaps, have for ever retarded its completion, had his
genius and application been less ardent. His pecuniary means
were not such as to enable him to commence busimsson his
own account, and few were willing to incur the necessary risk.
At length, however, Ije sewined the co-operation of some per-
S ions

DERBYSHIRE.

of t!ie cotton-trade in this neighbourhood. The
number of houses in Bakewell is about 310 ; that of
inhabitants 11H5.

BEAUCHIEF ABBEY.] Beauchief Abbey, situated
in the hundred of Scarsdale, in a beautiful little vale,
ten miles north-north-west from Chesterfield, is
extra parochial. The abbey was founded between
the years 117-2 and 1170, by Robert Fitz-R mulph,
Lord of Alfreton, for regular canons of the Premon-
stratensian order. It was 'dedicated to Thomas a
Becket, and the Virgin Mary ; and from tlie ibriner
an erroneous supposition was formed that it was
built to expiate his murder. Only a small part of
the chapel now remains. According to Dugdale,
when, in the twenty-sixth of Henry the Eighth, the
dissolution of this house took place its revenues
amounted to 126 . Hi. Id.

BELPER.] Bel per, or Belpar, anciently Beau-
poire, is situated on the banks of the Dcrwent, in the
hundred of Appletree, eight miles north by east from
Derby. It is a chapelry of Duffield ; and, though
formerly an inconsiderable village, its population
now exceeds, with the exception of Derby, every
other town in the county : the number of its inhabi-
tants amounting to 5778. This great increase of
extent and population began from three large cot-
ton mills of Messrs. Strutts, the first of which was
erected in 177(5. Two of tlem yet remain ; but the
third was destroyed by fire early in the year 1803.
The largest of these mills is 200 feet long, 300 feet
wide, and 6 stories high : it is considered fire proof,
as the floor is built on brick arches, and paved with
brick. The two water-wheels, which are employed
in the machinery in this building, are remarkable for
magnitude and singularity of construction ; one of
them being 40 feet long, and 18 in diameter; and
the other 48 feet long, and 12 feet in diameter. As
timber could not be procured large enough to form
the axles of these wheels in the common manner,
they are constructed circularly and hollow, of a num-
ber of pieces, and hooped in the manner of a cask.
One of tht shafts is six feet in diameter, and the
other nine. The shuttles are constructed in one

-* In;

sons who saw the merits of tlie invention, and were willing to
assist his endeavours, and he obtained his first patent lor spin-
ning by means of rollers in the year 1769. To avoid the in-
convenience i>f establishing a manufacture of this kind at tin-
great seat of the Cotton Manufacture, as it then existed, he
removed to Nottingham ; where, in conjunction with his part-
ners, he erected his first mill, which was worked by horses.
This mode being found too expensive, another mill, on a larger
scale, was erected at Cromford, the machinery of which was
put in motion by water. Mr. Arkwright soon effected many
improvements in the mode of preparing the cotton for spinning,
and invented a variety Of ingenious machines for that purpose,
in the most correct and expeditious manner; for all of which
he obtained a patent in the year 1775 ; and thus completed a
series of machinery so various and complicated, yet so admirably
combined, as to excite universal admiration. That all this
should have been accomplished by the single efforts of a man
without education, without mechanical knowledge, or even
mechanical experience, is truly extraordinary ; ancl is, perhaps,
equal to any known example of the wonderful powers of (be

piece, so as to support the lateral pressure of the
water, although it is ten feet deep, by resting one
upon another. This is different from the usual mode
of construction, in which they are supported by large
perpendicular beams at every six or seven feet, in
order to sustain this lateral pressure. About twelve
or thirteen hundred people are employed at these
mills ; and the proprietors have built many houses,
and a chapel, for their accommodation. Near the
mills a stone bridge of three arches has been erected
across the Derwent, at the expence of the county,
the former one having been washed down, by a
dreadful Hood, in 1795. At a short distance, lower
down the river, is a bleaching mill, belonging to the
same proprietors ; an iron forge, and two cotton
mills, one of them constructed like that before de-
scribed. A stone bridge w is also erected here by
these gentlemen in 1792. These mills afford regu-
lar employment, to about 000 persons. A Sunday
school has been established here, and another at Hel-
per, for the instruction of the children employed at
the cotton works.

BENTLEY.] Bentley, or Fenny Reutley, is situat-
ed in the Wapentuke oi Wirkswortb, two miles and
a quarter nortii by west from Ashborne. Here is an
ancient seat of the Berestbrds, of which the Marquis
ot VVaterlord. in Ireland, is a descendant. Tiie fa-
mily was seated here in the time of Henry the Sixth,
in the person of Thomas Beresford, Esq. a younsjer
son of a family of tnat name residing at Bereslord
in Staffordshire. It is said traditionally, that he
formed a troop of horse consisting of his sons, with
his and their servants, at Chesterfield, for the King's
service, in his war with France. He died in the
year 1473. The old manor-house, which, in the
small part that remains, still preserves a castellated
appearance, passed, by an heir general, to the family
oi Cotton, of Beresford; but the heir male of Tho-'-
mas Beresford is still owner of landed property here.
Of this family there are several monuments in the
village church.

BOLSOYEK.] This is a mean stragling market-
town, situated in the hundred of Scarsdule, 0-*- miles

human mind, when steadily directed to one object. However,
at the same time that he was inventing and improving the
machinery, he was engaged in other undertakings, which might
have been thought incompatible with such pursuits. He was
taking measures to secure to himself a fair proportion of the
fruits of his industry and ingenuity ; he was greatly extending
the business ; he was introducing into every department of the
manufacture, a novel system of industry, oeconomy, order, and
cleanliness; the whole of which he so effectually accomplished,
thai his example may be regarded as the origin of almost all
similar improvement*. During this entire period, he was
afflicted with a violent asthma, which sometimes threatened the
immediate termination of his existence; and, for some time
previously to his dea,th, he was rendered incapable ot continuing
his usual pursuits, by a complication of diseases, which at length
deprived him of life, at the Rock House, Cromford, on the
3d of August, 1792. The honour of knighthood was bestowed
on him in December, 1786, when he presented an address to
the King. .

l\jit

South ;

DERBYSHIRE.

south by east from Chesterfield, and 147* north by ]
west from London. Friday is the market-day ; and
it has a fair on Easter-Monday. The town is go-
verned by two headboroughs ; and a copyhold court, i
under the Duke of Portland, is holdeu here every
three weeks.

This town has been somewhat memorable in his-
tory, on account of its castle. At the time of the
Conquest, the manor belonged to William Peverel,
who is supposed to have built a castle near the spot
which is .now occupied by a mansion bearing the
name of Bolsover Castle. The ancient fortress
passing, with the estate of the Peverels, into the
possession of John, Earl of Mortaigna, was, in the
absence of his brother, Richard (he First, committed
to the custody of Richard del Pec. It is uncertain
how long it continued in his possession ; but on the
accession of John, William Briwere, the favourite
of that Monarch, was appointed governor. It was
afterwards seized by the disaffected barons, who re-
tained it till 1215, when, it appears by the Chroni-
cle ef Dunstaple, it was recovered for the King, by
William Ferrers, Karl of Derby. In the reign of
Henry the Third, John Scot, Earl of Chester, re-
ceived a grant of it; but he dying without issue, the
manor of Bolsover came, by allotment, to Ada, his
fourth sister and co heir, who married Henry de
Hastirp, Lord Abergavenny. It afterwards became
vested in the crown, by a compulsory exchange.
In the reign of Henry the Eighth, it was held by
Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, by the service
of one knight's fee ; but in the same reign, on the
attainder of the Duke's son and successor, it es-
cheated to the crown. In the reign of Edward the
Sixth, George Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, had a
grant of this castle in fee-farm. In the reign of
James the First, the Earl's son-in-law, Sir Charles
Cavendish, purchased the fee of the crown, and
building that part which is still standing, upon the
site of the ruins of the former castle, made it one
of the places of his residence. William, the son oi'
Sir Charles, was afterwards Marquis, and Duke of
Newcastle.* " When Charles the First went into
Scotland to be crowned," observes the Duchess of
Newcastle, in the life of the Duke, her husband,
"he took his way through Nottinghamshire, and
lying at Worksop manor, hardly two miles distant
from Welbeck, where the Marquis then was, the
Marquis invited his Majesty thither to dinner, which
the King accepted. This entertainment cost between
4 aud 5000/. and his Majesty liked it so well, that

* Tliii nobleman, the grandson of Sir William Cavendish,
usher to Cardinal Wolsey, was born in the year 1 592, James
I. made him Knight of the Bath, Baron Ogle, and Viscount
Mansfield. Charles the First created him Ear! of Newcastle,
and appointed him governor to the Prince of Wales. The Earl
contributed 10.00Q/. towards the expedition of that monarch
against the Scotch, besides a troop of horse. He behaved with
great spirit and loyalty during the civil wars, till the destruction
of the roval cause obliged him to go abroad. In his exile lie
wrote a Treatise on Government, and the Interest of Great Bri-

be sent my Lord word, that the Queen was resolved
to make a, progress into the northern parts, desiring
him to prepare the like entertainment for her, as he
had formerly done for him : which he did with all
possible care and industry, sparing nothing which
might add splendour to the feast, which both their
Majesties were to honour with their presence: Ben
Jonson he employed in fitting such scenes and
speeches, as he could best devise ; and sent for all
the gentry to come and wait on their Majesties, and
did every thing he could to render it gceat, and
worthy their acceptance. This he did at Bolsover,
and resigned Welbeck for their Majesties' lodging.
It cost him between 14 and 15,000/." It is said,
that the long building (the shell of which now re-
mains) along the terrace here, was built on this oc-
casion. But it is more probable, it was erected after
the restoration, for the Duchess mentions that the
Duke then " made some additional building here."

In the civil wars, his houses were pulled down
and disfuruished, of which the furniture tiere, and at
Welbeck, was particularly rich, and one suit of linen
alone, bought for the King's entertainment here, cost
ISO/. At this period, Bolsover castle was a garri-
son, under the command of Colonel Muscamp. The
following account of its capture, by the Parliamen-
tary forces, is given in a Parliamentary Chronicle
published by Vicars, intituled The Burning Bush
not consumed. " Shortfy after (i. e. after August
16, 1064,) the noble Major-General having left Ce-
lonel Bright, a commander of my Lord Fairfaxe's,
and a party of foot in the castle (Sheffield) by order
from the most noble Earl of Manchester, advanced
towards Bowzan, alias Bolsover Castle, about eight
miles from Sheffield. It being another strong house
of Marquesse Newcastle's, in Derbyshire, which was
well manned with soldiers, and strengthened with
great guns, one whereof carried eighteen pound bul-
lets, others nine pound, and it had strong works
about it ; yet this castle also upon summons, was
soon surrendered up to my Lord's forces, upon faire
and moderate articles granted to them. It pleased
God to give us in this castle of Bolsover an hun-
dred and twenty muskets, besides pikes, halberts,
&.C. Also one iron drake, some leaden bullets, two
mortar pieces, some other drakes, nine barrels of
powder, with a proportion of match, some victuals
ibr our souldiers, and some plunder."

Henry, the second Duke of Newcastle, dying
without male issue, the Bolsover estate became the
property of Margaret, his sister, who had married

tain with respect lo the other Powers of Europe. After the
Restoration he was created Duke of Newcastle. He died in
1G?(5. His grace wrote several plays aud poems, but his Trea-
tise 0.11 Horsemanship is the best known of his pieces. His
second wife wrote a number of volumes and plays, amounting
to thirteen folio volumes, now sunk into oblivion : she was the
daughter of Sir Charles Lucas, who suffered death at Colches-
ter from the rebel?. She died in 1673. The duke's title de-
scended to his sou Henry, who died without is>iK-, lG9l.

(W.V . OJ ..j- '

John

DERBYSHIRE.

John Hollis, Earl of Clare. They had issue, a
daughter, married to Harley, Earl of Oxford, from
whom, by a daughter also, Bolsover was carried to
the Bentincks, Dukes of Portland, in which family
it remains.

Bolsover Castle, as it now appears, is of singular
architecture. " Upon passing through some large
gates," observes an ingenious writer in the Topo-
grapher, " we soon enter upon the noble terras,
(high raised by nature and by art,) that forms the
western side, and overlooking a pleasing valley,
commands the park and seat of Sutton, and a rich
circle of country. Along this terras, stands the
range of building, now reduced to a shell, built by
the Duke of Newcastle. Passing this, we come to
the house, built by his father. Here we ascend by a I
flight of steps through a largo gateway, on each sido
of which are porters' lodges, into an high enclosed
paved court, into which as soon as we are entered,
we sec a regular front, in the form somewhat of an
E, viz. two small wings, and a lesser middle ene ;
in the latter is the porch ornamented above with the
Cavendish arms and coronet, and through it a pas-
sage, to the right of which is the way to the hall, not
large, but perfectly consonant with the building,
being supported in the middle by two pillars, from
whence, and from brackets on the side walls, issue
the ramifications of the ribbed roof. From this,
through an anti-room, is the entry into the dining-
room, with a similar ceiling, supported in the middle
by a circular thick pillar, round which is the dining-
table : the wainscot richly ornamented in the manner
of James the First's time ; the views from the win-
dows extensive and noble ; the size of the room a
square of about twenty-four feet. The chimney-
piece of this room is very showy, and expensive, (as
indeed are those in all the rooms, even the bed-
chambers,) and as elegant as the ponderous (yet
surely magnificent) ones in this reign can be. The
staircase is of stone, somewhat in the castle style,
though not circular. Above stairs, is a noble room,
rich in all the ornaments of the day, with painted
wainscot, a deep cornice adorned with arms, a rich
chimney-piece, fine old furniture, and numerous
windows, from whence are varied and almost bound-
less prospects. The many bed-chambers and other
apartments are all of the same date and taste, but
few have any remaining furniture. From houses
singular like this the mind is furnished with new
ideas, the imagery of past ages crowds upon the
fancy, and the most pleasing of our intellectual fa-
culties are gratified with a delightful exercise." At
the south end of the garden is a very curious decay-
ed fountain, standing in an octagon reservoir, six
feet deep, and ornamented with satyrs, masks, birds,
and other figures. On the pedestal is an alabaster
figure of Venus, represented holding wet drapery,
and in the action of stepping out of a bath.

Bolsover Church contains nothing remarkable,
but the monument-room of the Cavendishes. This
is an addition to the south side. On the outside on

vot. ii. NO. 47.

the battlements, in good wrought stone, in capital
letters, is cut the family motto, CAVENDO TUTUS
Secure, from caution. On the dexter side are the
Cavendish arms, three stags heads caboshed, a cre-
scent for difference. On the other side the arms of
Ogle a fess between three crescents, and above the
last, on a wreath, a rose. On the entrance into the
monument-room, over the door, is the date of the
year it was built, 16)8 ; and above are the Caven-
dish arms and crest. The place within is ^bout five
yards by six, at a yard distance from the monuments,
secured by bars of iron, and rails with spikes. Above
all, in height about five feet within, are two fine mo-
numents of Sir Charles Cavendish and his Lady.
Under a Grecian arch, in an altar-tomb, is his figure
recumbent, in armour, his own hair, hands in a
praying posture, &c. On an altar-tomb lower,
placed before it, the recumbent figure of his wife,
in her gown in full proportion, with her hands in a
praying posture. About these are arms, inscriptions,
&c. Opposite is a large marble tablet, with a mag-
nificent pediment, supported by marble pillars and a
large base, &c. erected by the Countess of Oxford,
1727, to the memory of her ancestors, viz. Henry
Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, and his Duchess ,
his elder brother Charles, Viscount Mansfield; his
uncle Sir Charles Cavendish ; his daughter Marga-
ret, married to John Holies, Duke of Newcastle, and
buried here 1716, &c. Near the altar-piece is some
carving on a stone formed like a sarcophagus six
feet by three, representing the Nativity : the Child
on the Virgin's lap holds a bird.

BONSAL.] This village is no otherwise remark-
able than for having a school, which was founded
by Robert Ferae, Esq. who settled twenty pounds
per annum on the master, ten pounds per annum to
put two boys apprentice, and ten pounds per annum
i'or the repairs of the school-house, the purchase
of religious books, &c. It is situated about three
miles from Wirks worth, in the -hundred of that
name.

BIIADSALL.] Bradsall, or Brcadsall, is situated
in the hundred of Appletree, three miles north-east
by north from Derby. Near this town was a house
of friars, hermits, which was in being in the reign
of Henry III. after which it became a small priory,
of the order of St. Augustine, dedicated to the Holy
Trinity ; and thus continued till the Dissolution,
when its annual revenue was valued at no more than
13/. and 8d.

BRAILESFORD.] This is a village of scattered
houses, about seven miles and a quarter north-west
by west of Derby, built on each side of the road be-
tween that town and Ashborne. II. dc Brailesford
was Lord of the Manor in the 25lh of Edward I. :
in the reign of Edward 111. it was held by Ralph
Shirley under the Duke of Clarence, of Tuthury,
whose descendant, Lord Ferrers, conveyed it to Mr.
Webster of Derby.

BKAMPTON.] Brampton is in the hundred of

Scarsdale, three miles west by north from Chester -

field.

DERBYSHIRE.

field. Brampton chapel is supposed, by an inscrip-
tion on one of the walls, to have existed so early as
1155. It sceras to Have been rebuilt and consecrat-
ed 1253, by Brenden, Bishop of Ardfert, suffragan
to Weser, Bishop of Litchfield and Coventry ; but
still continued dependant on the rectory of Chester-
field, which belongs to the Dean of Lincoln, the
vicarage not being endowed till 1268. The dean
and the parishioners claimed a right of nomination
to this chapel, but at Derby assizes 1758, the ver-
dict went in favour of the dean, and a decree
issued thereupon in the Court of Exchequer.

BRETB-Y.] The little hamlet of Bretby is situated
at the sou them extremity of tlte county, in the hun-
dred of Rep to u and Gresley, eleven miles and a half
south-west by south from Derby. A few scattered
houses are all that remain to lament the former su-
periority of the place ; for, as is evident from the
vestiges of walls, foundations, wells, &c. besides a
castle which was situated near the present chapel, it
was once a village, or town, of considerable extent
and note. The castle belonged to Thomas de Bro-
therton, Earl of Norfolk, and second son to Edward
I. from whom it descended to the Movvbrays,
Dukes of Norfolk. The unevenness of the ground
points out the spot where it stood, but the walls
have been entirely removed. The estate afterwards
descended to the Berkleys, from whom, through a
family named Mee, it passed to the Earls of Ches-
terfield, its present owners.

A' magnificent seat, said to have been built by
Inigo Jones, formerly stood in Bretby Park. The
present Earl, in la's youth, was persuaded, by an
artful steward, to pull it down, as in a dangerous
state of decay ; but it proved to have been very firm
and substantial. This house consisted of a long but
narrow body, with wings of similar dimensions ; the
tops of the latter were circular, but the gables on the
roof of the former more varied. The court was pro-
tected by massy iron gates, which led to a portico
on the ground floor. This was the entrance to a
hall and large staircase, adorned with many excel-
lent paintings. The rooms were most of them mag-
nificent with painted ceilings, rich tapestry, and
noble paintings. Beyond the right angles with the
east wing, was an admirable chapel of a much later
date ; the architecture was Grecian, very light and
handsouje. Within was a rich lining of cedar*, the
altar-piece remarkably fine, and there was also an
organ in the gallery ; at the east end of the chapel
stood a very large and venerable cedar, which still
remains. The gardens, which were filled with
buildings, fountains, leaden images in the shape of
wild beasts, and all the various appendages of old
fashioned grandeur, were formed after the plan of the
famous Versailles.

The park, though not very extensive, was formed
by nature with much variety to please ; a deep glen
divided the eastern side, down which winds a chain

* Vide Count Hamilton's Memoirs,
8

offish-pools ; the swells on every side were clothed
with fine timber, till the American war caused them
to be felled. In the other parts the scene was filled
with long avenues of elms and chesnut trees. To
the north-east Repton Shrubs, that glorious wood,
which still retains its greatness, seemed a continu-
ance of the same park, and highly ennobled the sce-
nery. A little west of the north rises that charming
feature Bretby Mount, which is still an object seen
from most parts of the country. Such is the muti-
lating power even of a few years, that where we be-
fore wandered amidst the finest shades, trees are now
but thinly scattered ; and where we might then be-
hold a magnificent edifice adorned with noble paint-
ings and the richest ornaments of the times, now
scarcely a relic is discovered. This was the celebrat-
ed scene of Count de Grammont's visits to the
beautiful Countess of Chesterfield, in the time of
Charles II.*

On the opposite side of the road, stands an odd
semi-circular house with formal plantations, called
Brislingcote. This plaee, it is believed, was built
by Sir William Stanhope as an appendage to his
| noble seat at Bretby. It was afterwards sold, and
subsequently belonged to a lady of the name of
Barnes.

BROUGH.] In this little hamlet, belonging to the
parish of Hope, in the hundred of High Peak, five
miles north-north-east from Tideswell, are the re-
mains of a Roman station. The camp was at a
place called the Castle, near the junction of two
small streams, named Nohoe and the Dradvvell Wa-
ter. Several foundations, &c. have been ploughed
up here, and Mr. Pegge, in the year 1761, saw a
rude bust of Apollo, and of another deity in stone,
which were found in the fields, with a coarse pave-
inent composed of tile and cement in the lower of the
two fields called Halsteds. In the other were marks
of an oblong square building, whose angles were of
rough grit-stone, and the area covered with bricks
and tiles. Pieces of swords, spears, bridle-bits, and
coins, have also been found here ; and some years
ago, a half length figure of a woman, with her arms
folded across her breast, cut in a rough grit-stone,
was turned up by the plough. A gold coin of Ves-
pasian, in good preservation, was found at Brough
Mill.

BUXTON.] The village of Buxton, so celebrated
for its medicinal springs, is a chapelry in the parish
of Bakewell, in the hundred of High Peak. It lies
36 miles north-west by north from Derby, and 160
north-west by north from Loildon. The surround-
ing country is mountainous and sterile ; but the
bowels of the earth are replete with various kinds of
minerals ; and the smiles of the Goddess of Health,
who presides here, renders the cheerless spot where
her favors issue, delightful to the eye and the heart.
" With joy and gratitude," said the late Mr. Pen-
nant, as he passed through Buxton, " I this moment

reflect

DERBYSHIRE.

reflect on the efficacious qualities of the waters :
recollect with rapture the return of spirits, the flight
of pain, and the re-animation of my long, long crip-
pled rheumatic limbs."

It appears from a manuscript of Dr. Gale's, quot-
ed in Gough's additions to Camden, that that gen-
tleman placed the Aquis of Ravennas at Buxton ;
though he had previously conjectured it to be at
Aiden, in Northumberland. That its warm springs
were known to the Romans, is evident from various
concurring circumstances. Several ancient roads
concentrate at this spot, particularly one called the
Bath-way, on Bathen-gate, which commences at
Brougli, the Roman station just mentioned, and was
traced by the late Mr. Pegge, in his " Kssay on the
Roman Roads through the Country of the Coritani."
Another, which came from Manchester, is known in
different parts of its course, by the appellations of
High Street, Street Fields, Street Lane, Old Gate,
&c. Specimens of Roman workmanship have also
been discovered here at different times. Bishop
Gibson mentions a well, cemented with Roman
plaister, close by St. Anne's Well, where are the
ruins of the ancient bath. This well was taken down
in 1709, when Sir Thomas Deloes, of Cheshire, iu
memory of a cure which he had received from the
waters, erected a small stone alcove over it.
Some capacious leaden cisterns, and different arti-
cles apparently Roman, were then found in digging
the foundation. The shape and dimensions of the
ancient bath, which was about eighteen feet from tlie
present bath-room, were discovered when the build-
ing of the Crescent commenced in the year 1781.
Its form appeared to have been that of a parallelo-
gram ; it measured from east to west, thirty feet,
and fifteen from north to south. The spring was
situated at the west end ; and at the east might be
plainly perceived a flood-gate, by means of which
the water was let out. The wall had been built
with limestone, covered on the outside with a strong
cement ; the floor consisted of a composition of lime,
mixed with coarse sand, saturated with blood. Near
one end was a cavity in the floor, resembling the
figure of a boat, extending circularly in length al-
most from the one side wall to the other ; its breadth
was about two yards ; and its depth below the level
of the floor, at the deepest point of curvature, about
eighteen inches : the water was conveyed into this
room by a leaden pipe. The remote appropriation
of the Buxton waters is apparent from these circum-
stances ; but neither the Saxon nor Monkish anna-
lists furnish any testimony, as to their having been
in use in the middle ages ; and, though it seems
probable, that they were never entirely deserted, we
have no certain records of their having obtained a
high degree of reputation till the sixteenth century,
when Dr. Jones gave them celebrity by a treatise on
their beneficial qualities. ' The first convenient house
for the reception of visitants, was erected a short
time previously to Dr. Jones's publication, by the
Earl of Shrewsbury, on the site of the building now

called The Hall, a part of which belonged to the
old fabric. Dr. Jones described this in the follow-
ing terms : " Joining the chief spring, between the
river and the bath, is a very goodly house, four
square, four stories high, so well compact with houses
of office beneath, above, and round about, with a
great chamber and other goodly lodgings, to the
number of thirty, that it is and will be a beauty to
behold, and very notable for the right honourable
and worshipful that shall repair thither, as also for
others ; yea, and the poor shall have lodgings and
beds hard by for their uses only." This building 1
occasioned the waters to be much more resorted to
than heretofore by all ranks of people. Mary, Queen
of Scots, being at that time in the custody of the
Earl of Shrewsbury, was brought along with him,
and his wife Elizabeth, iu one of his visits to this
place, on which occasion this heroic and unfortunate
Princess applied to Buxton, Caesar's Verses on Fel-
tria, with some alteration :

Buxtona, qus caliclx celebrabere nomine lymphse,
Forte milii posthac non adeumla, vale.

Buxton, whose fame thy milk-warm waters tell,
Whom I, perhaps, no more shall see, farewell.

It appears that the number of visitors who sought
health or recreation at these springs continuing to
increase, the hall became insufficient for their ac-
commodation, and most part of it was taken down
about the year 1670 ; when a new and enlarged edi-
fice was erected on the spot by William, third Earl
of Devonshire. This building, having undergone
various subsequent alterations to render it more
convenient, is still the principal hotel for the recep-
tion of company. Within it are the baths, which are
five in number: they adjoin to each other, but are
in distinct apartments. The gentlemen's bath is in
a close room, thirty feet in length, and sixteen wide :
along one end and side is a stone bench, for the use
of bathers ; and at each corner are" steps leading
into the bath. This is twenty-six feet and a half
long ; twelve feet eight inches broad ; and about
four feet seven inches deep. On the south-east side
is a stratum of black limestone, through which the
two principal springs rise ; but the water also bubr-
bles up in various smaller springs-, through the
chinks between the stones with which the bath is
paved. In the bath for ladies, and in that appro-
priated to the use of the poor, the water issues^
through the crevices of the floor. The two other
baths are private. It has been calculated, that the
springs throw up about sixty gallons of water every
minute. It requires two hours and fifty minutes, to
fill the baths. The almost invariable temperature of
the water, as it rises in the baths, is S'^of Faren-
heit's thermometer ; but sometimes, according to
t\te observations of Dr. Pearson, it has been one
quarter of a degree lower. From the analysis made
by this gentleman, it appears that a gallon of the
water, wheu evaporated, deposits sixteen grains of

sediment ;

DERBYSHIRE.

sediment ; of this quantity, eleven grains and a half
-were calcareous earth, two grains and a half vitrio-
lic selenite, and one grain and three quarters sea-
Salt. In the analysis made by Dr. Higgins and Dr.
Percival, the results were rather different : the for-
mer obtained from twenty-three to twenty-four
grains of sediment ; the latter, nearly eighteen.

The salutary effects of Buxton waters are parti-
cularly evident in the gout, rheumatism, nephritic,
and bilious disorders, and debility of the stomach
and intestines. When taken in any considerable
quantity, it occasions feverish symptoms, and pos-
sesses an astringent and heating quality. Dr. Den-
man, in bis Observations on Buxton Water, consi-
ders it as a more active remedy than is generally
supposed ; and not only dissuades from its use in
all inflammatory and feverish complaints, but limits
the quantity to be taken, in cases where its use is
efficacious, to a moderate portion. " In common,"
says he, " two glasses, each of the size of the third
part of a pint, are as much as ought to be drunk be-
fore breakfast, at the distance of forty minutes be-
tween each ; and one or two of the same glasses
between breakfast and dinner will be quite sufficient."
With respect to the bathing, he recommends for in-
valids, the time between breakfast and dinner as the
most proper; and directs that the prescribed, or
-usual exercise, should be taken before going into the
bath : the water never to be taken immediately be-
fore bathing. The water is usually drunk at St.
Anne's Well, a modern, but elegant little building
in the antique style. The water is conveyed thither
into a white marble bason, from the original spring,
through a narrow grit-stone channel, so nicely ad-
justed, that its temperature, on issuing into day, is
never more than three quarters of a degree lower
than in the baths : its general height is from 81J: to
81 1 of Farenheit. This well is regarded as one of
the Seven Wonders of the Peak ; chiefly, from the
circumstance, that both hot and cold spring water
may be obtained within twelve inches of each other,
from a double pump, situated on the opposite
side of the building to that which contains the
bason.

The Crescent is a very magnificent range of build-
ings, erected by the Duke of Devonshire about thirty
years ago, IVoin the design, and under the superin-
tendance of Mr. Carr. It consists of three stories;
the lowest rustic, forming a beautiful colonnade, ex-
tending the whole length of the front, seven feet
wide within the pillars, and eleven feet high. The
divisions between the windows above, are formed
by Ionic pilasters, extending to an elegant balus-
trade which skirts the whole front, the span of which
is 257 feet. In the centre are the arms of the Ca-

* The charge for bathing at the public baths, is one shilling
each time ; at the private ones, three shilling*. The expences
at the different inns are nearly the same. Dinner.at the ordinary,
unless recently raised, is two shillings and sixpence ; tea, one
shilling; breakfast and supper, one shilling and sixpence each.

vendish family, neatly carved in stone, but sur-
mounted with a pair of natural stag's antlers. Each
extremity of the Crescent contains an hotel ; and in
the intermediate space are several private lodging-
houses, the lower rooms of which form a series of
shops. In the larger hotel is the ball-room, an ele-
gant and well-proportioned apartment, with a rich
projecting cornice, and various appropriate and
beautiful ornaments. The length of this room is
seventy-five feet and a half ; the width thirty feet
two inches ; and the height thirty feet. The num-
ber of windows in the whole Crescent is 378. It is
built with grit-stone obtained near the spot, and
faced with fine free-stone, procured from a quarry
about two miles distant.

At the back of the Crescent, on a rising ground,
at the distance of a hundred yards, are the Stable*,
an extensive pile, forming, on the outside, an irre-
gular polygon, but having a circular area within,
180 feet in diameter. Round this is a covered gal-
lery, or ride, where the company exercise on horse-
back, when the weather renders shelter necessary :
near the stables, on one side, is a spacious repository
for carriages. These buildings, as well as the Cre-
scent, were constructed at (he cliarge of the Duke of
Devonshire, who is said to have expended on them
the sum of 120,000/.

Besides the hall, and the hotels in the Crescent,
4wo other spacious inns the White Hart, and the
Eagle and Child are open for the reception of com-
pany ;* but those persons who reside in the houses
belonging to the duke, have the privilege of bathing
first.

To those who are able to join in society, there is
something extremely agreeable in the mode of living
here : no ceremony is necessary farther than to pre-
serve decent respect ; and the mind may be often
gratified by the various oharms of conversation.
Lodgings in private houses, are, however, generally
indifferent ; and great inconvenience is experienced
from having no common market here. Fruit and
provisions, not being the produce of this neighbour-
hood, but brought from some distance, are conse-
quently expensive.

The number of houses in Buxton is about 186,
chiefly of stone ; that of its inhabitants 934. The
number of the visitors who assemble here in the
bathing season is uncertain ; but as the private
lodgings are able to accommodate about 800 or 900,
it may be -concluded that upwards of that number
are annually entertained here ; for of late years many
of the company have resided in the adjoining vil-
lages. The principal, and indeed sole depcndance
of the inhabitants, is on the expenditure of its visi-
tors. Several shops for the manufacture and sale of

A single bed-room is half a guinea per week ; a double ditto,
fourteen shillings ; and a sitting mom, according to its quality,
ffom twelve to sixteen shillings. The subscription to the ball
and card-room is one guinea: but if a family, only the two
first pay a guinea each ; the others, half a guinea each.

flu or

DERBYSHIRE.

fluor and alabaster ornaments, are established. Of
tlrese the shop of Mr. Samuel Cooper claims a de-
cided preference, both for its assortment and finish of
articles of this description. About two miles south-
west of this village is a waste uneven piece of land,
called Diamond If ill, from its being the place where
the crystals, known by the appellation of Buxton
diamonds, arc found.

From June to the end of October, the amusements
of Buxton are generally carried on. In these months
three assemblies are held weekly, on Monday, Fri-
day, and Wednesday, the two former for an undress,
the latter for a dress ball. On Tuesdays, Thurs-
days, and Saturdays, a small theatre, neatly fitted
up, is opened, frequented by a respectable company
of performers. Adjoining the ball-room, is an ele-
gant card-room open every evening. A pack of
harriers is also kept here by subscription. The
country is well adapted for hunting. Gentlemen
also amuse themselves in shooting moor game and
grouse, and in fishing for trout and grayling. Those
who have a taste for botany and mineralogy may, of
cou-se, meet with abundance of gratification. The
libraries are small ; but, as dissipation is not preva-
lent here, they are well attended.

As the chapel at Buxton is much too small for the
company, prayers are daily read, during the season,
in the hall. The minister is paid by subscription.
Formerly a lecture was delivered after the prayers ;
but, on account of the objection of the rector, this
was discontinued ; and, for the better accommoda-
tion of the visitors, the Duke of Devonshire erected
a new church at a little distance, in a neighbouring
parish.

The poor who resort to Buxton, are permitted to
partake the benefit of a fund, formed by a collection
of one shilling from every visitor who resides here
above a day. This is appropriated to the purchase
of necessary medicines, and supplying fourteen indi-
gent persons, who vouch their being proper objects
of charity, by bringing a certificate from the minister
of their parish and their medical attendant, with six
shillings weekly for one month, and permission to
bathe free of expence.

Opposite the Crescent is the eminence of Stain,
or Haiis-clitF, on the top of which is a very pleasant
walk. " Here," 3Ir. Pilkington observes, " is a
low, or barrow, of a different shape from any which
I have seen in Derbyshire. It is long, narrow at
the top, and slants off at the sides and ends : the
length at the bottom is about fifteen yards, and the
breadth six yards ; its height is above two yards.
This barrow is encompassed by a ditch nearly six
yards wide ; and has a cavity about six yards in
diameter, and one in depth, at each end, near the
south-west and north-west corners." The late
Rev. Mr. Watson, rector of Stookport, in a letter
written to Mr. Pegge in the year 178-2, observes,
that the remains of an ancient settlement, supposed
by him to be Roman, were here visible.

CALKE.] The village of Calke is situated iu the

VOL. n. no. 47.

hundred of Repton and Gressley, ten.miles south by
east from Derby. Maud, Countess of Chester,
founded here a monastery of regular canons of the
order of St. Austin, dedicated to St. Mary and St.
Giles, before the year 1161; but she afterwards
caused most of the canons to be removed to the pri-
ory of ReptOa, to which the monastery continued a
cell till the Dissolution.

In this village is Calke Hall, a spacious and hand-
some mansion, enclosing a quadrangular court ; but
being surrounded with rising grounds, it is exclud-
ed from a view of the neighbouring country. This
estate is the residence of the ancient family of Har-
pur, whose pedigree may be traced more than six
hundred years back, when they were inhabitants of
Chesterton in Warwickshire : about four hundred
years ago, they were of Rushull in Staffordshire, and
about two centuries back of Swarkstone, at which
time they were very numerous. Sir Henry Harpur,
Bart, whose ancestor, Henry Harpur, Esq. was
created a baronet, in the year 1620, is the present
proprietor of Calke Hall.

CARLES-WORK.] Carles-Work is situated in a
desolate moor, called Mill-stone Edge, not far from
Castleton. To what age or people this fortifica-
tion should be ascribed is unknown : it is- thus no-
ticed, however, by Mr. Bray : " It may seem to
have some resemblance of the huge and shapeless
structure of stones mentioned by Tacitus to have
been raised by Caractacus, when he headed the Si-
lures against the Romans. On its first appearance,
a stone wall, of eight or nine feet high, seeming to
be pretty regularly made, is seen crossing a neck of
land, lying higher than the adjoining part of the
moor, and which is full of loose stones. On coming:
to it, the stones which compose the wall are found to
be very large, but regularly piled, and covered at the
back with a sloping bank of earth. Keeping to the
right hand, the ground is of an irregular shape, en-
closed by a fence of stones rudely placed. Some-
times a great stone, in its natural position, forms the
defence; in other places smaller ones are piled, be-
tween or on large ones. On the side which looks
towards Chats worth, is an entrance or gateway,
opening inwards with two flanks."

CASTLETON.] This place, which takes its name
from an ancient castle, situated on a steep rock, to
which there is only one ascent, and that so winding
that it is nearly two miles to the summit, is in the
hundred of High Peak, five miles north from Tides-
well. The immediate approach to Castleton, by the
road across the mountains, from Chapel-in -the-frith,
observes Warner, in his " Northern Tour," is by
" a steep descent, called the Winnets, or Wind-
gates, from the stream of air that always sweeps
through the chasms. This road is a mile in length,
and carried on in a winding direction, in order to
render the natural declivity of the ground passable
by carriages. Happy was the imagination that first
suggested its name, The gates or portals of the
winds ; since, wild as these sons of the tempests are,
H. the

DERBYSHIRE.

the massive rocks which nature here presents, seem
to promise a barrier sufficiently strong to controul
their maddest fury. Precipices 1000 feet in height,
dark, rugged, and perpendicular, heave their un-
wieldy forms on each side the road, which makes
several inflections in its descent, and frequently pre-
senting themselves in front, threaten opposition to
all further progress. At one of these sudden turns,
to the left, n most beautiful view of Castleton Vale
is unexpectedly thrown upon the eyes, refreshing it
with a rich picture of beauty, fertility, and variety,
after the tedious uniformity of rude and hideous
scenery to which it has so long been confined."
" This peaceful and luxuriant vale," observes nn-
other judicious writer, "has a very impressive effect,
from being contrasted with the bleak and elevated
tracts that environ it. Its breadth is in many parts
two miles, its length between five and six, and its
depth beiow the general level of the surrounding
country, nearly 1000 feet. Through its bosom flow
several meandering rivulets ; and from the north and
south, various lesser dales open into it from differ-
ent distances. The villages of Hope, Castleton, and
Erough, are situated within its limits ; and the for-
mer, with its spire church, forms a very agreeable
feature in the scenery when viewed from this part of
the descent. As the road winds along the declivity,
the traveller obtains a prospect of Castleton, which
appears clustered near the bottom of the steep emi-
nence at whose feet the famous cavern discloses it-
self, and whose summit is occupied by the ruins of
the ancient Castle that gave name to the place."

Near the entrance of the village, a bridge has
been thrown across the stream which issues from the
cavern. The buildings are chiefly of stone. The
support of the inhabitants is mostly derived from the
mining business, and from the expenditure of those
who are induced to visit the remarkable places in the
neighbourhood. A ditch and vallum formerly ex-
tended in a semi-circular course round (lie village,
from the rock on which the castle stands, and may
yet be traced in certain directions. The elevated
situation of the castle, and the almost perpendicular
chasms that nearly insulate the eminence which it
occupies, must, prior to the invention of gunpowder,
have rendered it almost impregnable. The east and
south sides are bounded by a narrow ravine, called
the Cave, which ranges between two vast lime-stono
rocks, and on the east is nearly 200 feet in depth.
On the west it is skirted by the precipice which
frowns over the great cavern, and rears its abrupt
head to the height of -260 feet. The north side is
the most accessible, yet even here the path has been
carried in a winding direction, to obviate the steep-
ness of the ascent. The Castle-yard, an enclosed
area, extended nearly over the wliole summit of the
rock. The wall is nearly in ruins to the level of the
area ; though, in a few places, on the outside, it
measures twenty feet -high. On the north side stood
two small towers. The entrance was at the north-
east corner, as appears by the remaining part of an

arched-way. Near the north-west angle is the
Keep. The walls of this building,,on the south and
west sides, are tolerably entire : at the north-west
corner they are fifty-five feet high ; but the north
and east sides are much shattered. On the outside
it forms a square of thirty-eight feet two .inches ;
but on the inside it is not equal, being from north to
south, twenty-one feet four inches ; from east to
west, nineteen feet three inches. This ^difference
arises from a difference in the thickness of the walls,
which are composed of broken masses of lime-stone,
and mortar of such an excellent temper, that it binds
the whole together like a rock : the facings, both
outside and inside, are of hewn gritstone. In the
wall within is a little herring-bone ornament. The
inside, now a complete vacuity, anciently consisted
of two rooms ; one on the ground floor, and one
above ; over which the roof was raised with a gable-
end to the north and south, but not. of equal height
with the miter walls. The ground floor was about
fourteen feet high, the upper room about sixteen.
The entrance to the former appears to have been
through a doorway on the south side of the upper
room, by a flight of steps, now wholly destroyed :
the present entrance is through an opening in the
wall. At the south-east corner is a narrow winding
staircase, communicating with the roof, but in a ruin-
ous condition.

The antiquity of this castle is considerable. Mr.
King, who has minutely described it in the sixth vo-
lume of the Archreologia, imagines it to have been
a fortress, and place of royal residence, in the Saxon
times ; but other antiquaries suppose it to be a Nor-
man structure, built by William Peverel, natural son
of the Conqueror : the traditions of the neighbour-
hood also ascribe its erection to him ; and its ancient
appellation of Peverei's Place in the Peke, counte-
nances the opinion. It is certain, that Peverel pos-
SQSsed it at the time of the Domesday Survey, by the.
name of the Castle of Peke, with the honour and
forest, and thirteen other lordships in this county.
About this time a tournament is reported to have
been held here on the following occasion.

" Pain Peverel (half brother to William) Lord of
Whittington, in the county of Salop, had two daugh-
ters ; oue of whom, named Mellet, was no less dis-
tinguished by a martial spirit than her father. This
appeared from the declaration she made respecting
the choice of a husband. She firmly resolved to
tnarry none but a knight of great prowess ; and her
father, to confirm her purpose, and to procure and
encourage a number of visitors, invited all noble
young men who were inclined to enter the lists, to
meet at Peverei's Place in the Peke, and there de-
cide their pretensions Ly the use of arms ; declaring,
at the same time, that whoever vanquished his com-
petitors, should receive his daughter, with his castle
at Whittiugton, as a reward for his skill and valour.
Guarine de Rlee/, a branch of the house of Lorraine,
and an ancestor of the Lords Fitz-Warrine, hearing
this report, repaired to the place above-mentioned,

and

DERBYSHIRE.

and there engaged with a son of the King of Scot-
laud, and also with a Baron of Burgoyne, and van-
ipViishing them both, obtained the prize for which he
fought."

The Peverels did not enjoy their estates many ge-
nerations ; for William Peverel, grandson to the
first possessor, of this name, having poisoned Ra-
nulph, Earl of Chester, was obliged, to secure his
safety by an ignominious flight ; and his castles, and
other possessions, were left at the King's disposal,
(Henry II.) by whom they were granted to his son
John, Earl of Mortaigne, who afterwards succeeded
to the Crown. In 'the sixth year of the reign of
John, Hugh de Nevil was made governor of the
Peak Castle ; but within ten years afterwards it is
said to have been taken from the Barons who united
to, oppose the tyranny of the monarch, by William
de Ferrers, Earl of Derby. In the fourth of Ed-
ward the Second, John, Earl of Warren, obtained
a grant of the castle and honour of Peak, in Derby-
shire, with the whole forest of High Peak, in as
ample manner as it was anciently enjoyed by the
Peverels. In the forty-sixth of Edward the Third,
the castle was granted to John of Gaunt, and from
that time descended in the same manner as the Du-
jehy of Lancaster.

This castle, though almost impregnable from its
situation, was but ill adapted for any continued de-
fence ; as there is no appearance of any well or re-
servoir within its limits, from which the garrison
could be supplied with water. It should be noticed,
however, that at no great distance from the Keep,
near the upper part of the Cave-Valley, there is a
spring, which, by some contrivance, might have an-
ciently conveyed water into the fortress. At present
its waters sink between the clefts of the lime-stone,
and fall in continued drops from the roof of the great
cavern at the place appropriately named Roger
Rain's House.

CHADDESDEN.] At Chaddesden, a little hamlet
belonging to the parish of Sponden, in the hundred
of Appletree, two miles east from Derby, is the seat
of Sir R. Mead Wilmot, Bart, a descendant of the
ancient family .of Wyllimot, who resided in the ele-
venth century at Sutton-upon-Soar, in Nottingham-

* Tlic ancestor of the noble family of Cavendish, Robert de
Gernon, came from Normandy with William the Conqueror,
and contributed considerably to his success. In the reign of
Edward I. Geoffrey de Gernon, one of the descendants of Ro-
bert, resided at Moor Hall in this county. Roger, his son,
married the heiress of John Potten, of Cavendish, in Suffolk ;
and, following the rustom of the age, his children assumed, in
compliment to tlfeir mother, the name of Cavendish. Roger
Cavendish, the eldest, was Lord Chief Justice in 1366; but it
being reported that his son had shin Wat Tyler, the insurgent*
who arose in Suffolk to revenge the death of that rebel, seized
and beheaded him. On his son John, now mentioned, the ho-
nour of knighthood and an annuity of 40/. for himself and his
heirs for ever.wvere conferred for his activity in suppressing the
prevalent insurrections. His great grandson, Thomas Caven-
dish, WHS Clerk of the Pipe in the Exchequer in the reign of
Henry VJII.: he had four sons ; the second of whom was the ce-

shire. The mansion is pleasantly situated, and has
a handsome appearance. The Wilmots arc Lords oT
the Manor.

CHAPEL-IN-THE-FRITH.] This is a neat little
market-town, in the hundred of High Peak, 38{
miles north-west by north from Derby, and 167{
north-west by north from London. The market, is
on Thursday ; and it has fairs on the Thursday be-
fore the 13th of February; March 24 and 29;
Thursday before Easter ; April 30 ; Holy Thurs-
day ; July 7 ; Thursday before August 24 ; Thurs-
day after September 29 ; and Thursday before No-
vember 11. The inhabitants are chiefly supported
by the manufacture of cotton.

This town is situated on the declivity of a high
hill, which rises in the midst of a spacious valley,
formed by the mountains at this extremity of the
county. The church, which was erected at the
commencement of the 14th century, has a .square
tower, in which are six bells ; the east end of thi;
church was lengthened some years ago at the ex-
pence of a Mrs. Bower, whose daughter bequeathed
her harpsichord to the church, with a salary of about
20/. a year for a person to play, and to provide coals
to air it.

CHARLESWORTH.] -Ten miles north-north-west
from Chapel-in-the-Frith, in the same hundred, is
Charlesworth, a village of considerable extent. It
is built on the acclivity of Charlesworth Nich, the
appellation given to a range of the highest hills in
this part of the county. The size and population of
this place have been much increased of late years,
by the spreading of the cotton works. About one
or two miles south are collieries, which afford fuel to
the several villages in this neighbourhood.

CHATS WORTH.] Chatsworth, the r.enowned seat
of the Duke of Devonshire, is situated in the parish
of Edensor, of which it is a chapelry, in the hundred
of High Peak, three miles and a half east-north-east
from Bakewell. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
the manor was purchased, from the ancient family of
Leeche, by Sir William Cavendish,* husband to
Elizabeth, afterwards Countess of Shrewsbury,!
whose sister married Francis Leeche, of Chats worth.
Sir William, by the persuasion of his lady, com-
menced

lebrated Sir William, who married the Countess of Shrews-
bury. Edensor church contains, besides a tomb for the first
Earl of Devonshire, a splendid monument for Henry, the eldest
son of Sir William, who, from his notorious gallantries, was
called by Sir Sampson Degne, in a letter published in Erd^s-
wick's Survey of Staffordshire, the Common Bull of Derby-
shire and Staffordshire. Here is also a Latin epitaph of con-
siderable length for one of the domestics of the Queen of Scots,
who died while in her service at Chatsworth. ,

( This lady, who was much celebrated for her beauty and
accomplishments, and still more for her extraordinary fortune
in the world, was daughter of John Hardwick, Esq. in this
county. At the age of fourteen, she was married to Robert
Barley, Esq. who, in about two years, left her a very rich
widow. Her next husband was Sir William Cavendish. Her
third was William St. Lowe, Captain of the Guard to Queen
Elizabeth ; and her fourth, George Talbot, Earl of Shrews-
bury.

DERBYSHIRE.

menced a noble mansion-house, on the estate, which,
after his death, in the year 1537, was carried on and
completed under the direction of his widow. This
building was taken down at the latter end of the
seventeenth century, when William, the first Duke
of Devonshire, began on the site of the more ancient
fabric, the present magnificent structure, which was
finished in the year 1702.

The situation of Chatsworth House, regarded as
the first wonder of the Peak, is peculiar and strik-
ing. It may be said, that the very disadvantages of
the spot contribute to the beauty of the mansion, and
by the most exquisite management, have been made
subservient to the builder's design. On the east
side not far distant, rises a prodigious mountain,
thickly planted with beautiful trees : upon the top
of this mountain mill-stones are procured. Here
begins a vast extended moor, which for fifteen or
sixteen miles, towards the north, .has neither hedge,
house, nor tree, and over which, when strangers
travel, it is impossible to find their way without a
guide. Nothing can be more surprising of its kind
to a traveller, approaching from the north, when,
after a tedious progress through such a dismal de--
sert, on a sudden the guide brings him to a preci-
pice, where he looks down, from a comfortless, bar-
ren, and as it appeared, an endless moor, into the
most delightful valley, and sees a beautiful palace,
adorned with fine gardens. On the plain, which ex-
tends from the top of this mountain, is a large body
of water, which occupies nearly eighty acres, and from
the aseents round it, receives, as into a cistern, all
the water that falls ; which, through pipes, supplies
the cascades, water-works, ponds, and canals, in the
gardens. Before the west front of the house, which
is the most beautiful, and where the foundress built
a fine portal, runs the Derwent, which, though not
many miles here from its source, is a rapid river, -
when, by hasty rains, or the melting of snows, the
hills pour down their waters into its channel. Over
the river is a stately stone bridge of three arches,
erected by Paine, and ornamented with figures,
sculptured by Gibber ; and in an island in the river
is an aucient fabric, built of stone, in imitation of a
. castle. The front to the garden is a regular piece
of architecture. The fri/e under the cornice has the
motto of the family under it in gilt letters, so large
as to extend along the whole front, though the words
are only two, Cavendo Tvtvs ; which is no less ap-
plicable to the situation of the house, than to the
name and crest of the family. The sashes of the se-
cond story are seventeen feet high, of the finest plate
glass, each frame two feet -wide ; and the wood-
work double giit. A noble piece of iron-woik gates
and balusters exposes the front of the house and
court, terminated at the corners next the road with

bury. Slie built Chatsworth, Hardwirk, and Oldcotes, all
magnificent seats in this county. She is said to have been jea-
lous of the unfortunate Mary, whilst she was under her care at .

two large stone pedestals of attic work, curiously
adorned with trophies of war, and utensils of all the
sciences, in basso relievo. The house is built in the
Ionic order, with a flat roof, surrounded by a neat
balustrade. Its form is nearly a square of about 190
feet, enclosing a spacious quadrangular court, hav-
ing a fountain in the centre, with a statue of Or-
pheus. The principal entrance on the west is by a
noble flight of steps to a terrace, the length of the
whole building. The fronts which form the qua-
drangle, are decorated with rich sculptures repre-
senting military trophies. The stone of which this
edifice is built is of an excellent sort, veined like
marble : it was hewn out of the neighbouring quar-
ries. The interior of this mansion, is splendidly de-
eorated with painted walls and ceilings ; but it ex-
hibits few of those facilitating efforts of the pencil
which enrich the apartments of numerous mansions
of our nobility. It possesses, however, some attrac-
tions of another kind, which amply repay the visit-
ant's attention : we mean, the beautiful carved orna-
ments by Gibbons ; of whom \Valpole observed, that
he was the first artist, " who gave the wood the
loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained to-
gether the various productions of the elements, with
a free disorder natural to each species." " At Bur*
leigh," observes the same writer, " is a noble pro-
fusion of his carving, in picture frames, chimney-
pieces, and door-cases, and the Last Supper in alto
relievo, finely executed. At Chatsworth, where a
like taste collected ornaments by the most eminent
living masters, arc many by Gibbons, particularly in
the chapel ; in the great anti-chamber are several
dead fowl, over the chimney, finely executed, and
over a closet- door, a pen not distinguishable from
real feathers. When Gibbons had finished his works
in that palace, he presented the Duke with a point
cravat, a woodcock, and a medal with his own
head."

The Hall, sixty feet by twenty-seven, is rather
dark, but it has an air of considerable grandeur : the
ceiling, end, and one side, exhibit representations of
an Assembly of Gods; Julius Ciesar sacrificing;
and the Assassination of that Hero, in the Capitol.
These were originally painted by Verrio and La
Guerre ; but were judiciously touched some years
ago. From the hall a double flight of steps, and
a long gallery, lead to the chapel, which is very ele-
gantly fitted up, and decorated with paintings by
Verrio, and a variety of exquisite carving by Gib-
bons. The altar-piece by the former is one of his
best performances : it represents Christ reproving
the Incredulity of St. Thomas. The ceiling is co-
vered with a painting of the Ascension.

In the Dining-Room, fifty feet by thirty, is a fine
whole-length portrait, by Sir Godfrey Kueller, of

This lady, u ho died in February 1607, was ge-
nerally distinguished by the name of Bess of Hardwick.

William,

DERBYSHIRE.

William, first Duke of Devonshire, " who was dis- |
tmguished as a wit, a scholar, a soldier, and a gen- j
tleman."*

The Dancing-Gallery, a hundred feet by twenty- I
two, is exceedingly splendid ; the ceiling and pan- j
nels are elegantly painted, and the cornices gilt : in
the coves are various statues. Here are the point-
cravat, woodcock, and medal, hy Gibbons, already
mentioned: they are preserved in a glass case. In
the Dressing- Room to the best Bed-Chamber j is a
small but beautiful collection of fossils belonging to
the late Duchess of Devonshire.

The Music-Room is neatly -painted in imitation of
marble. It contains the portraits of the late Duchess
of Devonshire,f and her daughter, Lady Georgiana,
who married Lord Morpeth ; by Sir Joshua Rey-
nolds. In the Chintz Bed-Chamber is a good pic-
ture of Raohael, second Duchess of Devonshire,
daughter of William, Lord Russel, and four of her
children, three girls and a boy.

The State Apartments are on the south side of the
house: in the First Drawing-Room, thirty-six feet
by thirty, are the following portraits. John, first
Duke of Rutland ; obiit 1710, setat 72. William,
first Earl of Devonshire, ascribed to Myteus ; and j
declared by Mr. Walpole to be one of the finest sin- '
gle figures he had ever seen.^ The Duke of Or-

* This nobleman was born in the year 1640. In 16G1, he
represented the county of Derby in Parliament, and four years
afterwards attended the Duke of York as a volunteer asainst
the Dutch. He distinguished himself in the Ilou^e of C'om-
mons against the court, and was a witness in favour of Lord
Kussel ; he offered also to exchange clothes with that nobleman
to enable him to effect his escape, which he gallantly refused.
In 1684 he succeeded to the title of Earl of Devonshire, and
about the same lime was fined 30.000/. and imprisoned in the
Kind's Bench, for assaulting Colonel Culpepper in the presence
chamber. He gave bond for the payment of the line, which,
however, he saved by the arrival of the Prince ol Orange. In
168!) he was made a Privy Counsellor, and at the coronation he
served as Lord High Steward. In 1694 he was created Duke
of Devonshire, and during the King's absence was one of the
Urgency, after the death of the Queen. He died 1707. He
wrote an Ode on the Death of Queen Mary ; and an Allusion
to the Bishop of Cambfay's Supplement to Homer.

f Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, eldest daughter of
Earl Spencer, and Georgiana his Countess, was bom on the 7th
June, 1757, and married to the Duke of Devonshire, June 6,
1774. She was educated with great care by her mother, Lady
Spencer, and on her appearance in public life, attracted ufl
eyes by the elegance of her person ami deportment. After her
marriage, the realm of fashion looked to her as its head, and every
article of dress was recommended by her name being imposed
on it. On her presentation to court after marriage, she was
literally loaded with jewels. Several years elapsed without
any prospect of issue; but in 1782, was born her eldest
daughter, now Viscountess Morpelh ; and four years after.
Lady Henrietta Cavendish; and after four years more, in
1790, William Lord Cavendish, Marquis of Hartington. She
had the good sense to suckle her own children ; and her memory
ought to be venerated, for introducing into the female world of
fashion, a custom the renunciation of which had proved so in-
jurious to the iiigher rank 6 of life. In the course of the summer
179'.!, the Duchess visited the Continent in company with her
declining mother, and her sister, now the Countess of Be-bo-
rough. In this tour she was attentive to the foreign literati, and

VOL. II. NO. 48.

mond ; two fine whole lengths, said to be Earls of
Pembroke, with pointed beards, whiskers, Vandyke
sleeves, and slashed hose ; and an Earl of Devon-
shire, in the costume of the seventeenth century.

In the Leicester, or Principal Drawing-Room, is
a valuable piece by Holbein, representing, in black
chalk, heightened, the figures of Henry the Seventh,
and Henry the Eighth, as large as life ; and a fine
painting by Titian, of Our Saviour, and Mary Mag-
dalen, in the Garden : the expression in the counte-
nance of the latter is exquisite. The Scarlet-Room
was so named from containing the bed in which
George the Second expired, and which, with the
Coronation chairs of the present King and Queen,
became the perquisites of the late Duke, as Lord
Chamberlain ; the chairs are preserved in another
apartment.

The stiita of rooms called Mary, Queen of Scots',
is thought to correspond in situation with those in-
habited by that beautiful but indiscreet princess,
when a prisoner in the old house at Chatsworth, un-
der the care of the Earl of Shrewsbury. Thirteen
years of her long captivity were passed here ; and
from this place she wrote her second letter to Pope
Pius, bearing date the 31st of October, 1570. Her
bed, of red velvet, richly laced with silver, is still
preserved.

visited the most eminent among them. She also composed se-
I veral pieces with considerable taste. She was, indeed, a pa-
! troness of the Muses, of their votaries, and of those polite arts
j which claim alliance with the divinities of Parnassus. It is even
thought, that her benevolence on such occasions, not unfre-
j quently suffered imposition from the frauds of the designing;
and hence, among oilier causes, she experienced inconveniencies
which should not have attached to her rank. Politics for awhile
engaged her attention too strongry ; neither her person, her
manners, nor her rank qualified her for an election canva-ser,
] nor for that laborious attendance on political debates which oc-
! casionally tries the utmost powers of a masculine constitution.
Her dominion was the region of fashion aad taste. When her fa-
mily increased, she became the attentive nurse, ami the careful
mother. Benevolent herself, not a;<t to think ill of others, nor
to anticipate evil ; she was nevertheless, the subject of uneasi-
ness, and at length was carried off (about Hie latlcr end of 1806
or the beginning of 1807) by a disorder of which none of the
physicians who attended her could discover the nature, or the
origin. They even obtained leave to open the body after her
decease, yet still remained ignorant of the catut of that event.
Whatever it might be, or irm whatever source derived, her
friends of the highest rank, affection itely deplored her loss.
The truly ingenuous united in tiie same affliction, and the
public opinion, which censured some parts of her conduit with
no little severity, subsided into a softened recollection of her
beaulv, her affability, and her benevolence.

This nobleman was second son to Sir William Cavendish,
and the Countess of Shrewsbury, through whose affection ami
management he became possessed of a larger fortune than Ms
elder brother. He contributed greatly towards the establish-
ment of the English Colonies in Virginia and the Ber mufti
Islands. After the death of his brother, in the year IfiiS, hi
was created Earl of Devonshire by James the First. He rlie4
in 1625, and was buried at Edensor, where an elegant L : i
epitaph, inscribed on his tomb, represents him as a " Maii Been
to execute every laudable enterprise; anil in the simplicity of
virtue, rather deserving than courting gtery:"

i Distant

DERBYSHIRE.

Distant about 250 yards from the house, on a
more elevated spot, are the Great Stables ; the west
and north fronts of which are somewhat in ore than
200 feet in length. These are handsome, and we\\-
dtsposed : they were erected, with the bridge, about
fifty years ago.

Chatsworth Park extends over a circumference of
nine miles, and is beautifully diversified v, ith hill and
dale, as well as various plantations, which range in
fine sweeping masses over the inequalities of the
ground. The prospects from different parts are
eminently fine ; and one view, looking back from the
south, possesses extraordinary grandeur. Immedi-
ately below the eye is the rich vale nnimated by the
meandering current of the silver Derwent ; more
distant is the house, with a fine back ground of
wood, rearing in solemn majesty ; and far beyond,
the blue hills of Castleton skirting the horizon.

The Water-Works, which, sixty or seventy years
ago, gave the gardens of Chatsworth a celebrity not
yet lost, are situated near the south-east and south
sides of the house. They are still, we believe, in
tolerable order ; but they generally fail to interest,
the taste of the present day regarding them only as for-
mal puerilities. The great Cascade, consisting of a
series of steps or stages, extends a considerable dis-
tance down a steep hill, crowned at the top by a
temple, which, as already mentioned, is supplied
with water from a reservoir. Mr. Warren observes,
that " this fane should certainly be dedicated to
Mercury, the god of fraud and deceit, as a piece of
roguery is practised upon the incautious stranger
within its very sanctuary ; from the floor of which a
'multitude of little fountains suddenly spout up whilst
he is admiring the prospect through the portal, and
quickly wet him to the skin." When the cascade is
put in motion, the water rushes in vast quantity, and
with prodigious force, from the domed roof of the
temple, and from a variety of lions' heads, dolphins,
sea nymphs, and other figures that ornament it ; and
falling into a bason in front of the building, from
which also several fountains issue, it is thence dis-
charged down the steps, and having reached the
bottom, disappears by sinking into the earth. Here
is also a copper free, made to represent a decayed
willow, the branches of which produce an artificial
shower ; some sea horses, and a triton, from whose
heads small streams issue ; and a fountain which
throws up 'the water to the height of thirty yards.

On the most lofty part of the eminence which
rises on the east side of the house, is the Huating
Tower, a building supposed to have been erected as
a station where the female visitants at Chatsworth
could partake in the diversion of stag-hunting with-
out incurring Its danger; as its height being ninety
feet enabled them to overlook the neighbouring
lulls. Its form is square, with a round tower at each
angle. To the north of the bridge, in a different
part of the grounds, stands another tower, sur-
rounded by a moat, called the Bower of Mary, Queen
ef Scots, from that princess having spent many bourg

of her confinement, in a garden that was situated on
its summit.

CHELMORTON.] The little Tillage of Chelmorton,
in the hundred of High Peak, four miles and three
quarters south-west from Tideswell, is seated at the
foot of a considerable eminence, on the summit of
which are two extensive barrows, within a short dis-
tance of each other. The circumference of the
largest is about 240 feet, and that of the latter about
200 : each of them has a circular cavity or ba-
son on the top. In the year 1782, a barrow, about
the size of the largest of these, and described by Mr.
Pilkington as situated about a quarter of a mile to
the north-east of Chelmorton, was opened by some
labourers, who were searching for stone to erect *
walled fence in a neighbouring field. " After re-
moving a covering of moss and soil from the lower
extremity of the mount or barrow, they discovered a
kind of breast-work, or regular wall, of single stones
formed without mortar. Not apprehensive of meet-
ing with any thing extraordinary beyond this wall,
tkey proceeded with their work, but were soon -sur-
prised by the sight of several human bodies. They
found that the wall was at the end of a cell or coffin,
iti which the bodies had been deposited. The breadth
of the cell within was two feet, but its depth was not
fully ascertained, though supposed to be about a
yard. The sides consisted of stones about eight
inches thick, and two feet wide : they were placed on
their edge, and formed a kind of partition : the stones
used for the covering were from one to -three inches
thick, but not larger.

" Though some of the stones and a small quan-
tity of the soil had fallen into the vault, yet several
human bodies or skeletons might be clearly distin-
guished lying at full length, with their heads towards
the centre of the mount. The bones had never been
disturbed, and were apparently united at the differ-
ent joints, but by the slightest motion were found
to be entirely loose, and unconnected ; upon exami-
nation they were discovered to be remarkably strong
and sound ; the ribs in particular were so little de-
cayed that they would easily bend without breaking.
Those who saw the bones thought that they were
uncommonly large ; and it was imagined that the
persons to whom they belonged must have been
when alive at least seven feet high ; the tweth were
sound and perfect. From the number of bones and
skulls, and the dimensions of the vault, it was s\Vp-
posed that it contained about four or five human
bodies, and though only one vault was opened, it
was presumed that others were carried throughout
the whole circumference of the mount, and might be
about, twenty in number."

CHESTER, LITTLE.] Little Chester, the Dcrveu-
tio of the Itinerary, is situated in the hundred of
Morleston and Litchurch, one mile north-east from
Derby. It derived its Roman name from its situa-
tion on the bank of the Derwent. Very few vestiges
of the ancient station are now to be seen, though
Dr. JStukeley traced the track of the wall quite

DERBYSHIRE.

round ; and in some places saw, under ground, the
foundation of it in the pastures. Within the walls
were the foundations of houses ; and in the fields
round what is called the Castle, the track of the
streets, laid with gravel, might be seen ; particularly
in a dry summer, when the superincumbent grass
was bare. Several wells have been found, some of
which are square, and curbed with good stone.
Abundance of Roman coins of gold, silver, and
brass, have been dug up here ; and earthen pipes,
the remains of aqueducts, ami various other anti-
quities, have been discovered. Towards the river
human bones, brass rings, &c. have also been
found.*

CHESTERFIELD.] Chesterfield is a large, but ir-
regularly built market-town, situated in the hundred
of Scarsdale, 25 miles north by east from Derby,
and 151 1 north-north-west from London. It lies
between two rivulets, the Hyper and Rothcr, in the
beautiful and fertile vale of Scarsdale, and is the se-
cond considerable town in the county. The Saxon
name of Chester proves it to be a place of great an-
tiquity, and the Rev. Mr. Pegge imagines it to have
originated in a Roman station, on the road from
Derby to York, which he supposes to have been
fixed on an eminence, called Tapton, or Topton, at
the point named Windmill Hill, but distinguished in
several ancient writings by the appellation of Castle
Hill. As to the site of Chesterfield," says lie,
" it lies so under the Castle Hill at Topton, or Tap-
ton, that when it became a place of note, it would
rationally be called The field of the Chester, or Cas-
tle." However, at the time of the Norman Survey,
it appears to have been of such little importance as
to be noticed in the Domesday Book only as a baili-
wick, belonging to Nowbold, now a small hamlet at
a short distance to the north. Subsequently to this
period, its size and popularity more rapidly increas-
ed : a church, erected towards the conclusion of the
leventh century, was granted ivy William Rufus to
the cathedral ot Lincoln. In the reign of John, the
manor was granted to William de Bruere, his par-
ticular favorite, through whose influence the town
was incorporated, and an annual fair of eight days
continuance, with two weekly markets obtained.
The present market-day is Saturday ; and the fairs
are en the 27th of January, tiie 28th of February,
the first Saturday in April, the 4th of May, the
'4th of July, the 25th of September, and the last Sa-
turday in November. The charter, granted by King
John, lias been confirmed and enlarged by several
succeeding Sovereigns. The government of the

* The late eminent antiquary, Mr. 'Pegge, in his investiga-
tion of (he courses of Hie Konian roads in liiis county, slates,
that there was one which led from this station to Chesterfield ;
and he particularly describes several places where it was visible
in the year 1700, for a considerable length together, between
Little Chester and Tuplon Moor, from which place it pointed
directly towards Chesterfield, liut could not be traced any
further, through the connlry having been long in tillage.

town appears to have been exercised by an alder-
man and twelve brethren -till the reign of Elifcabeth ;
but the charter of the corporation granted by her,
vests it in a mayor, six aldermen, a town clerk, and
a common council of twenty-four of the jjrincipal
inhabitants. The petty sessions for the hundred arc
holden here.

From the De Brueres, the manor of Chesterfield
passed in marriage to the family of Wake, and after-
wards (also by marriage) to Edward Plantagenet,
Karl of Kent, whose descendants held it for several
generations. In the 20th of Edward HI. it was
held by John, second son of Edmund of Woodstock ;
and in the year 13SO, by Sir Thomas Holland, from
whom it passed to the Nevilles. In the reign of.
Queen Elizabeth, it belonged to George, Earl of
Shrewsbury ; and afterwards it became the property
of the Cavendishes, by purchase, from whom it de-
scended to the late Duke of Portland ; but it has
since passed, in exchange, to the Duke of Devon-
shire.

This town is memorable in history, from a
battle fought here in the year 12(16, between Henry,
nephew of Henry III. and Robert de Ferrers, the
last Earl of Derby. After the discomfiture of the
Barons at Eversham, this Earl bouud himself by an
oath, to a forfeiture of his estate and honours, if ever
he joined their party again ; but after some proceed-
ings in the Parliament, held at Northampton in 1205,
which were particularly obnoxious to the Barons,
he, in the spring of the ensuing year, again assem-
bled his followers in his castle at Dufiield, and, being
supported by several disaffected nobles, took his
station at Chesterfield. In this place, being some-
what surprised by the forces of Henry, he was de-
feated after a severe conflict. He fle'd, and conceal-
ed himself beneath some sacks of wool, in the church.
His enemies being informed of the place of his re-
'trcat by the treachery of a woman, he was seized
and carried in irons to Windsor ; but, after an im-
prisonment of three years, set at liberty, on certain
conditions, which being unable to perform he was
deprived of his estates and earldom. The King
granted these immense possessions to his son Edmund
Crouchback, from whom they were conveyed by
marriage to John of Gaunt, and thus became part
of the Duchy of Lancaster. In the civil wars the
Earl of Newcastle defeated some troops of the Par-
liament in this place.

Chesterfield, as appears from the parish register,
has been more than once visited by that dreadful
calamity the plague : that which begau in Octo-

He observe 1 !, that this road cnme out of Staffordshire, over
Blgttgtal Heath, by Little. Over, Nun's Green, and down
Darky Slade, to the river, where it crossed the bridge to Lit-
tle Chester. Hence he traces it over Morley Moor by Hors-
ley Park, near a Roman camp on Pentrich Common to Oker-
tliorp ; then by Alfreton, Shirland Hall, and Higham, through
Strelton, Clay Cross, and Eg-stow Farm, to Tuptou Moor.

ber,

DERBYSHIRE.

her, 1586, has been called the great plague, to dis-
tinguish it from a less fatal infection, which broke
out iti the year 1608-9.

Previously to the tenth of Richard I. an hospital
for lepers was founded in this town, and continued
till the time of Henry VIII. Here was also a guild,
dedicated to St. Mary and the Holy Cross, which
had its origin in the reign of Henry II. who^main-
tained two or three priests in the church. Several
other guilds are mentioned in ancient writings be-
longing to the corporation ; and from the chapel of
one of them called St. Helen's, the grammar-school
is supposed to have received the name Chapel-
School, by which it is generally distinguished. This
school was founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
and was formerly the largest in the north of Eng-
land : both the master and usher are clergymen.
The present school-house was erected in the year
1710. There are several almshouses in different parts
of the town.

In the year 1787, Chesterfield was found to con-
tain 801 houses, and 3626 inhabitants ; in 1801, the
number of the former was 9-20, of the latter 4267 ;
and, according to the Population Returns of 1811,
the number of houses was 979, that of inhabitants
4476 ; of which 2025 were males, and 2451 females.
The inhabitants chiefly derive their support from the
iron works in the town and neighbourhood. Here
are also three potteries for the manufacture of coarse
earthenware ; and carpets, stockings, and shoes,
for the London market, are made here in large
quantities.

Some years ago an elegant assembly room was
built at the Castle Inn, for the accommodation of the
more respectable inhabitants.

Some years ago, also, a neat town-hall was built,
in the market place, under the direction of Mr.Carr,
of York ; on the ground-floor of which is a goal
for debtors, and u residence for a goaler ; and on
the second floor, a large room for holding the ses-
sions, &c.

From this town, the Stanhopes, Earls of Chester-
field, take their title.

The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a spacious
and handsome building ; but it is particularly re-
markable for the appearance of its spire, which rises
to the height of 230 feet ; and is so singularly twist-
ed, and distorted, that it seems to lean in whatever
direction it may be approached. The church is said
to have been dedicated in the year 1232 : it is built
in the form of a cross. In the chancel is the burial-
place of the respectable family of the Foljambes,
whose ancient seat was at the hainlet of Walton, in
this parish. On the floor are two beautiful brasses
of Godfrey Foljambe and Catherine his wife. There
are also two very ancient tombs, with Latin in-
scriptions, of which the following are transla-
tions :

" Here lies Mr. John Pypys, chaplain to Hie guild
of the Holy Cross, who died the eighth day of the

month of July, in the year of our Lord one thousand
four hundred nd two; lo whose soul may Almighty
God be merciful, Amen."

" Underneath is deposited the body of John Ver-
dou, formerly rector of Lyndelby, in the county of
Nottingham, in the diocese of York, and chaplain of
the Chantry of St. Michael the Archangel, in the pa-
rish ot AH Saints, in Chesterfield, who d:ed tlie second
day of the month of May, in the year of our Lord
1JOO. I desire you to pray for his soul, as you would
pray for your own soul."

On a handsome marble mural monument, in the
chancel, is the following memorial for the ancestor
of the Heathcotes, whose large wealth, originally
acquired by lead merchandise in this town, has been
diffused through several very opulent branches :

" At the foot of this lyeth in hopes of a blessed re-
surrection, the body of Gilbert Heathcote, late ot this
towne, Gentleman, who departed this life tiie 24th
April, 1690, in the G5lh year of his age. By his wife,
Ann, the daughter of Mr. George Dickens of this
towne, he had 8 sons and 1 daughter, viz. Gilbert,
John, Samuel, Elizabeth, Josiah, William, Caleb,
George, and Thomas, of which \L\\i. and Thomas
dyed in their infancy, but he had the particular blc-ss-
ing to see all the rest Merchant Adventurers either in
England, or foreign parts."

In the transept is a record of a legacy of 1300/.
bequeathed for putting out boys to trade, or to the
sea-service ; but limited to those only who reside in
the borough, and do not receive alms.

CODNOR.] This is a little hamlet in the parish of
Hcanor, in the hundred of Morleston and Litchurch,
four miles and a quarter south-south-east from Al-
frcton. Here, on an elevated site, are the remains
of a castle, which, in the reign of Henry the Third,
was the chief seat of Richard de Grey, whose de-
scendants, the Barons Grey of Codnor, possessed it
till the eleventh of Henry the Seventh, when it pass-
ed to Sir John Zouch. John Zouch, Esq. sold the
estate upwards of a century ago. It afterwards be-
came the property of the Masters, one of whom in-
habited the castle in the year 1712. The remains
standing, indicate its having been a place of consi-
derable extent : in the walls are some singular re-
cesses ; and on the east side was a deep ditch.

CROMFORD.] The village of Cromiord, situated
on the banks of the Derwent, is in the Wapentake
of Wirksworth, two miles north-north-east from
that town. It was here that Sir Richard Arkwright
erected his first, cotton mill, on improved principles.
Here are now two, which, with a third at Masson,
also built by Sir Richard, employ about an hundred
and fifty men, three hundred women, and seven
hundred children. In these mills, proper attention
is paid to the health and morals of the children, who
are kept some time at school previously to their ad-
mission ; and they afterwards continue to be instruct-
ed at Sunday schools. The mills are never work-
ed by night, and are always kept particularly clean.
Both the mills at Cromford are worked by the. water
2 flowing

DERBYSHIRE.

flowing from Oomford south', the fall from the
mouth of which to the Dei-went is nearly five-and-
fofty feet ; this sough throws out from forty to fifty
tons of water per minute, and being partly supplied
from the warm springs, the most severe frosts never
interrupt the working of the mills.

The establishment of the first of these mills at
Cromford proved a source of much legal conten-
tion ; for the manufacturers of Lancashire, appre-
hensive that it would supersede the use of hand ma-
chines, which has actually been the result, formed a
combination to impede its success, and, by contest-
ing the originality of the invention, to destroy the
validity of the patent. In two instances, from par-
ticular circumstances, they obtained a favourable
verdict, and lost it in a third. No doubt can exist
but that every really essential part of the machinery
was constructed by the genius of Sir Richard Ark-
wright. * Since this invention was perfected, the
goods manufactured by the cotton from these mills,
are superior in quality, and made with much less ex-
pence. Hosiers use a great quantity of the cotton
spun by this machinery, as they find it more suitable
to their purpose than any other.

Cromford manor was purchased by Sir Richard
Arkwright, of Sir Peter Nightingale, in the year
1789 ; since which period, from the establishment of
the cotton trade, its population has greatly increas-
ed. In the year 1801, it had 208 houses, and 1115
inhabitants: in 18 11, it had 239 houses, and 1259 in-
habitants.

This village has a small but very neat chapel,
built of hewn stone, begun by Sir Richard Arkwright,
and completed, since his decease, by his sou. The

* The machinery by which the cotton is manufactured, is
so complicated, that a clear conception of its nature can be
obtained only from a minute inspection of all its parts, in a
state of rest, and also in motion. A description of the process
by which the raw cotton is prepared for use, will, however,
convey some idea of the ingenious mechanical contrivances
which are employed to facilitate the production of the thread.
When the cotton is sufficiently picked and cleaned (an opera-
tion performed by the women) it is carefully spread upon a
cloth, in which it is afterwards rolled up in order to be carded.
To the carding machine belong two cylinders of different dia-
meters ; the larger of which is covered with cards of fine wire ;
and over, and in contact with it, are fixed a number of sta-
tionary cards, which, in conjunction with the revolving cylin-
ders, perform the operation of carding. The smaller cylinder
is encompassed by fillet cards, fixed in a spiral form ; and is
also provided with an ingenious piece of machinery, called a
crank. The spiral roll of cloth before mentioned being applied
to the machine, is made to unroll very slowly, by means of
rollers, so that it may continually feed the larger cylinder wilh
its contents: when carded, the cotton passes from this to the
smaller cylinder, which revolves in contact with the other,
and is thence stripped off by the motion of the crank ; not in
short lengths, but in continuation ; and having the appearance
of a very thin fleece, which, if not intended to pass a second
time through the curding machine, is immediately contracted,
by passing between a pair of rollers, into what is calltd a
" row," or lenefh. The next part of the process is that of siz-
ing The machine by which this is performed has two pairs of
rollers, which are placed at a proper distance from each other,
and revolve with different velocities. When the lengths of
VOL. II. KO. 48.

first opening was on the 1th of June 1797", and it*
consecration in the following September. It con-
tains a handsome marble font, an organ, and two
| small galleries for the children of the Sunday-
i school.

At Cromford, the owners of cows have instituted
a society to insure against the losses incident to that
kind of property. The cows are valued twice a
year, and each member pays monthly, according to
the value of his stock, and at the rate of one penny
per pound. When the fund amounts to 40/. the
payments are discontinued, till it is reduced below
that sum ; and when any member's cow dies, he re-
ceives the full extent of its worth.

From one to four hundred tons of calamine, are
prepared annually in this village by a Birmingham
company. This ore is obtained on the estate of Mr.
Arkwright.

On the left of the road leading towards Wirks-
worth, stands an alms-house, or, as it is called, a
Bead House, built by Dame Mary Talbot, for six
poor women, in the year 1051. This lady was the
widow of Sir William Armyne, Hart, and daughter
and co-heir of Henry Talbot, Ksq. fourth son of
George, Karl of Shrewsbury.

At a perforated rock near Cromford, called Scar-
thin Nick, about 200 Roman coins were found some
years ago ; they were copper, and chielly of the lower
empire.

DALE ABBEY.] Dale Abbey, or DC Parco Stan-
ley, is a liberty in the hundred of Morleston and
Litchurch, seven miles east-north-east from Derby.
" Serlo de Grendon," says Tanner, "temp. Hen. II.
first placed a prior and convent of black canons here

cotton are brought from the carding machine, several of them
together are applied to these rollers ; and the effect produced,
is not only that the lengths, thus applied in conjunction,
coalesce, and come out singly, hut also that the fibres of the
cotton are drawn out longitudinally, by the different velocities
and pressure of the rollers: hence the cotton is termed a
" drawing." This process is several times repented, anil seve-
ral drawings are each time united, by passing together between
the rollers ; the number introduced being so varied, that the
last drawing may be of a size proportioned to the fineness of
the thread into which it is intended, to be spun. The cotton is '
now in a fit state for " roving." This operation is performed
by passing the last mentioned drawing between two pairs of
rollers, as in the former machine. It is then received into a
round conical " can," revolving with considerable swiftness.
This gives the drawing a slight twisting, and prepares it for
winding, which is done by hand, upon large bobbins, by the
smaller children. In this stale, the cotton is applied to the
spinning machine. Here it is passed between rollers, whi< h
draw it out, and reduce it to a proper degree of tenuity : at the
same time, it is sufficiently twisted by the revolving of spindles
upon which bobbins are placed; and the yarn thus twisted is
caused to wind on the bobbins, by the friction of their ends
upon laths placed horizontally. These laths have another very
essential office to perform, which is that of raising and falling
the bobbins, so that the yarn may be spread over their who!e
length ; otherwise the thread would require (o be moved very
frequently, as is the case in the common spinning wheel. When
thus wound upon the bobbins, the cotton is regarded as ready
for use.

DERBYSHIRE.

in Depedmle, from the monastery of Calke, but they
continued not long, and were . ucceeded by two acts
of Premonstratensians, one from Tupholm, the other
from Welbeck, but these also forsaking the old place,
upon part of the neighbouring park at Stanley Wil-
liam Fitz Rauf, Seneschul of Normandy, and Jef-
fery de Salicosa Mara, who married Maud his daugh-
ter, founded A. D. 1204, an Abbey of the Premon-
stratensian Order, from Nevvhouse, to the honour of
the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was endowed with
estates to the yearly value of 144/. 12s. (W. at the
Dissolution, when Gervas Kingston, Esq. was the
reputed patron ; the site was afterwards, 35 Hen.
VIII. granted to Francis Poole." Mr. Pilkington,
in his View of Derbyshire, furnishes the following
amusing and interesting particulars relating to
Dale Abbey : *' This abbey was a religious house
of the Premoiistratcusian Order, and dedicated to
the Virgin Mary. A monk, who belonged to it, has
left in manuscript a history of its foundation, as re-
lated by Maud de Salicosamara, who built the
church belonging to the abbey. The'principal facts
and circumstances recorded in this history are
these.

" There once lived in the street of St. Mary in
Derby, a bsike.r, who was particularly distinguished
by his great charity and devotion. Alter having
spent many years in acts of benevolence and piety,
he was in a dream called to give a very trying proof
of his good principles ; he was required by the Vir-
gin Mary to relinquish all his worldly substance, to
go to Depe Dale, and .to lead a solitary life in the
service of her son and herself. He accordingly lei't
all his possessions, and departed entirely ignorant
of the place to which he should go. However, di-
recting his course towards the east, and passing
through the village of Stanley, he heard a woman
saying to a girl : ' Take with thee our calves, and
drive them to Depe Dale, and return immediately.'
R-garding this event as a particular interposition of
Divine Providence, he was overwhelmed with asto-
nishment, and drawing near, he snid, " Tell me,
good woman, where is Depe Dale?" when he re-
ceived this answer, ' Go with the girl, and she if you
please will shew you the place.' Upon his arrival he
(bun I it a very marshy land, and very distant from
all human habitation. Proceeding from hence to the
east he came to a rising ground, and under the side
of the hill cut in the rock a small dwelling, and built
an altar towards the south, and there spent day and
night in the divine service, with hunger, thirst, cold,
.an c I want.

" It happened that one day a person of great
onsequence, by name Ralph, the son of Jeremund,
came in pursuit of the diversion of hunting, into
his woods at Ockbrook, and when he approached
the place where his hermit lived, and saw the smoke
rising from his cave, he was filled with indignation
and astonishment that any one should have the rash-
ness and effrontery to make for himself a dwelling
in his woods wituout his permission. Going then to

the place, he found a man clothed with old rags and
skins ; and inquiring into the cause and circum-
stances of his case, his anger gave way to the emo-
tions of pity, and to express his compassion he
granted him the ground where his hermitage was
situated, and tithe of his mill at Burgh, now Burrow-
ash, for his support.

" It is related that the old enemy of the human
race then endeavoured to render him dissatisfied
with his condition, but thal^e resolutely endured
all the calamities of his situation. One of the"
greatest evils which he suffered was from want of
water ; but from this he was relieved by discover-
ing a spring in the western part of the valley. Near
this he built a cottage, and an oratory in honour of
the blessed Virgin, and ended his days in the service
of God.

" Serto de Grendon, Lord of Badely, a knight of
eminent valour, great wealth, and distinguished
birth, who married first Margery, the daughter of
the above Ralph, and afterwards Maud, Lady of
Celston, gave (1st of Henry II.) to his godmother,
during her life, the place of Depe Dale, with iU
appurtenances, and some other land in the neigh-
bourhood. She had a son whom she educated tor
holy orders, that he might perform divine service in
her chapel at Depe Dale, and herself resided at a
small distance southward of this situation. But in
a short time afterwards, with the consent and appro-
bation of this venerable matron, the above Serto de
Grendon invited canons from Calke, and gave them
the place at Depe Dale.

" When these canons were settled here, they, with
immense labour and expence, built a church and
other offices. Their prior also went to the court of
Rome, and obtained several important privileges for
them ; and the place was much frequented by per-
sons of all ranks, some of whom were large bene-
factors to this establishment.

" However, in process of time, when the canons
already mentioned had been long separated from
the social conversation of men, and became corrupt-
ed by the prosperity of their situation, they began to
grow negligent of the divine service. They fre-
quented the forest more than the church, and were
r.iore intent upon hunting than prayer and medita-
tion. But the King, hearing of their insolent con-
duct, commanded them to resign every thing into
the h nds of their patron, and to return to the
place from whence they came."

These canons were, however, soon afterwards
Succeeded by six white canons of the Premonstra-
tensian Order, to whom the Park of Stanley was
given, but how or by whom the writer of the history
acknowledges himself i : norant. " But I nope (con-
tinues Mr. Pilkiugton) I shall be able to throw some
light upon the doubtful point, by means of the
obliging information of the Rev. Robert Wilmot, of
Morley.

" One of the windows of the church at Morley

consists of painted glass, with inscriptions, which

7 are

DERBYSHIRE.

are plainly designed to record some remarkable
events. The glass was brought from Dale Abbey,
vrheii it was dissolved, and was intended to convey
an idea of the following circumstances.

" According to tradition the keepers of the Park
or Forest, being disturbed by the encroachments of
the monks, carried their complaints to the King ;
and with a view of representing this fact, they are
painted upon tlio i _,ivt'ii habits, standing be-

fore him with tlii n, Whereof we com-

plain unto the Kin- ,' Jrthey receive this answer,

Go and tell him to comfe to me.' In another part
of the window the person against whom the com-
plaint is lodged, appears kneeling before the King.
With a view of adjusting the dispute, and giving
satisfaction to both parties, the King it is said grant-
ed to the canons at Depe Dale as much land as be-
twixt two suns could be encircled with a plough
drawn by deer, which were to be caught from the fo-
rest. This is expressed by two other inscriptions :

* Go take them, and tame them.* ' Go take ground
with the plough.' We find that this determination
of the King was carried into execution : for upon
the glass is painted a man with a plough drawn by
deer, with these words underneath : ' Here Sir Ro-
bert plougheth with them.' What extent of ground
was encompassed in this way cannot now be ascer-
tained. But it is probable that it comprehended
the precincts of the abbey, or the whole liberty f
Dale.

" The canons, in whose favour this grant was made,
experienced many difficulties and distresses in their
new situation. Having passed six years in exces-
sive poverty, they cut the tops of the oaks in the
Parks, sold them, and returned to Tupholme. To
supply this loss of worshippers, William de Grendon
sent for and procured five canons of the Premonstra-
tensian Order from Welbeck ; but they experienced
no less grievous sufferings than their predecessors,
and were soon recalled by the abbot.

" Though every attempt which had yet been
made to establish a religious house at Depe Dale
proved unsuccessful, effectual steps were at length
taken for the execution of that purpose, through
tin 1 concurrence and pious zeal of several different
persons.

" Geoffry de SalicoSamara or Sauceinere, who had
married Maud, the grand-daughter of William Jere-
niiiiul, was promised the village of Stanley as part
of his wife's dower ; but having no children, this
pair earnestly entreated their father to offer it to
God, and to build a religious house in the Park of
the same village. This request was readily grant-
ed, and to carry their designs more effectually into
execution the father sent for William de Grendon,
his sister's son, who was Lord of Ockbrook, and
requested him to contribute towards the accomplish-
ment of their pious intentions. He told his nephew
that as he was patron of the ancient place of Depe
Dale, where several different congregations of reli-
gious men had successively resided, but had been

driven away by extreme poverty, he wished him to
resign it for the plantation of a new society, and to
join with him in providing for its support, out of the
lands, possessions, and goods which God had grant-
ed them.

" This proposal was immediately complied with ;
the nephew consenting to resign the house with all
its appurtenances, on condition that divine service
should be celebrated every day by a priest in the
chapel of Depe Dale, for his own soul and the souls
of his ancestors and posterity, and for the souls
of all those who rested iu Christ there ; and that in
an inn there, should be placed, on a large tabl;, a
daily supply from the convent of bread and beer,
and distributed among the poor of the neighbouring
forest.

" The grant, under these conditions, was grate-
fully accepted by his uncle ; and the execution of
the whole business was committed to Geoffry and
Maud Saucemere, nor did they delay a single mo-
ment the accomplishment of a design which they
had themselves originally suggested. Having re-
ceived charters and other instruments necessary for
the foundation of a religious house, they went to
New-house in Lincolnshire, and brought from
thence nine canons, who were admitted into the
Premonstrateusian Order already established at Depe
Dale."

According to tradition, the church belonging to
the abbey was a very grand and magnificent struc-
ture ; but scarcely any part of it is now standing,
except the arch of the east window, which is par-
tially covered with ivy, and forms a pleasing object.
The chapel, built by the godmother of Serlo de
Grendon, stands at a little distance from the abbey
ruins, and divine service is, we believe, yet regu-
larly performed in it. Beyond, on a pleasant wood-
ed hill, is the hermitage, or cave, cut in the rock by
the poor Baker. This is overhung with trees ; it
bad originally a window on each side of the door-
way ; but these have been bricked up, many years.
The abbey buildings appear to have been of consi-
derable extent, various parts having been converted
into dwelling-houses and barns, which yet remain.
Some of the windows of these houses contain paint-
ed glass with inscriptions, which sufficiently mark
their origins.

DARLEY.] This is a pleasant little village seated
on the banks of the Derwent, in the beautiful vale
which extends to Matlock : it is three miles and a
quarter north-west from that town, in the hundred
ofHighPeaJc. In the church-yard is a remarkable
yew-tree, thirty-three feet in girth, which, though it
has lost many of its branches, is an extraordinary
specimen of luxurious vegetation.

DARLEY ABBEY.] Darley Abbey, or Little Der-
by, is situated in the hundred of Morleston and Lit-
church, one mile and a quarter north from Derby.
The origin of this village is connected with the
establishment of a priory of Austin Canons, which
was translated hither, from St. Helen's, in Derby,

DERBYSHIRE.

in the reign of Henry II. Previously to this, the
land belonged to Hugh, Dean of Derby, who gave
it to Albums, Abbot of St. Helen's, for the erection
of a church, and house for him and his canons. He
also endowed a new foundation with his patrimonial
estate in Derby, and witli the patronage of the
church of St. Peter, and all its appurtenances. The
possessions and privileges of this establishment con-
tinued to increase till the period of the Dissolution,
when its various endowments were valued, accord-
ing to Dugdale, at 258/. 13*. 5il. The abbey lands
were exempted from tithe ; anil the abbot was em-
powered to hold a chapter of the secular clergy, and,
in conjunction with them, to determine all matters
which appertained to the office of dean, so far as
concerned the aftkirs of the different churches in
Derbyshire presented to the abbey. On these occa-
sions the interference of the Bishop of the diocese
only, was allowed. The site of the abbey was
granted to Sir William West, in the thirty-second
year of Henry the Eighth. In 1510, the church and
tombs were sold for 20/. the cloisters for 10/. and
the chapter-house for twenty shillings. Thus the
principal buildings were destroyed ; but a few
walls, and some out-houses, which have been con-
verted into cottages, still point out the situation of
the abbey.

By the erection of a cotton mill, paper mill, &c.
this village appears to be rising in importance. In
the year 1801, the population was 615 ; and in 1811,
it had increased to 790.

Darley Hall, the seat of Robert Holden, Esq. is
situated near this village, in the beautiful dale which
skirts the Derwent. To the east and west, the
views from this house are confined, by the elevation
of the adjacent lands ; but, from the north and south,
they are very fine.

DERBY.] Derby, the county town, sending two
members to Parliament, is situated in the hundred
of Morleston and Litehurch, J26| miles north-west
by north from London. Its population, in 1801,
was 10,832 ; in 1811, it had increased to 13,043.

The origin of this town called Northworthig by
the Saxons, and Deoraby by the Danes is unknown.
It is supposed to have been a settlement of the Bri-
tons ; and, that it was occupied by the Romans, |
there can be little doubt ; but its earliest period of I
historical notice is in the ninth century. It was al- i
ternately held by the Danes and the Saxons, during !
the destructive conflicts so long maintained between i
those nations. In the year 874, it was occupied by i
the forces of Halfden, a Danish chief, whose head-

yuarters were then at Reppendune, now Repton.
u 018, the Danes, who were still its masters, were
surprised, and completely routed by the heroic
Ethelfleda, daughter to King Alfred, and princess
of the Mercians. After a short period, it was reco-
vered by the Danes, who, in the year 942, were
again dispossessed by King Edmund, and about the
same time driven out of all the principal towns in
the neighbouring couuties.

| The Domesday Book mentions Derby as a royal

. borough of Edward the Conftssor's ; observing that

it contained fourteen mills for grinding corn, and

243 burgesses, forty-one of whom held twenty-iour

plough-gates of taxed land. The annual rent then

paid was 24/. two parts of which belonged to the

King, and the third to the Earl of Mercia : tolls,

forfeitures and customs,, were divided in the same

manner. The death of Edward, and the accession

of Harold to the throne, proved a source oi much

calamity to Derby ; for when Hardrada, King of

i Norway, invaded Northumberland in the year 1066,

and was joined by Earl Tostig, Harold's brother,

many of its inhabitants, being the vassals of Edwiue,

Earl of Mercia, were drawn out to oppose them.

The forces of this nobleman were united to those

commanded by Morcar, Earl of Northumberland,

; but the army was too weak to wrest the palm of

victory from the contending foe. The Norwegian

; monarch defeated them with great slaughter ; but

: within four days he was himself defeated and slain

by Harold, who had hastily marched from the

southern coast, where his troops had been previously

stationed to oppose the threatened invasion of the

i Norman.

William's landing at Pevensey, three days after
the fall of the King of Norway, occasioned the re-
turn of Harold to the coast of Sussex. He had been
joined by the scattered forces of Edwine, who pass-
ing through Derby, again drained its inhabitants to
recruit his ranks. In the battle of Hastings many
of them fell, and so slowly was the loss recovered,
that at the time of the Noruaan Survey, only 140
burgesses were remaining, of whom forty were mi-
nors : the number of corn-mills also was reduced to
ten. When the property of the disinherited English
was distributed by the Conqueror, Derby, with a
prodigious rent-roll, was given to his illegitimate
son William Peverel, with nearly the same emolu-
ments as had been enjoyed by the Mercian Earls ;
but as empty houses, and neglected lands, were ill
adapted to pay levies, encouragement was given to
population and industry by an augmentation of pri-
vileges. The annual rent, however, was raised to
30/. and twelve thraves of corn, about eighteen
strikes ; and to balance the surcharge, the village of
Litchurch was added to the town.

Henry the First bestowed Derby on the Earl of
Chester, and made it a corporate town. It obtained
various privileges in the reigns of Henry I. and II.
Richard I. and King John ; in whose time the bur-
gesses were returned into the Exchequer, as being
indebted fifty-six marks for the confirmation of their
liberties. In the same reign, they were also return-
ed debtors in sixty marks and two palfreys, for
holding the town of Derby at the usual fee farm ;
and 10?. increase for all services, and having such a
charter as the burgesses of Nottingham have. In
the twelfth year of the same reign, the burgesses of
Derby were charged 407. for the fee-farm o! th j
town, lu the reign of Richard I. a grant was made

DERBYSHIRE.

to the burgesses and their heirs, strongly marking
the iiliberality of that age against the Jews ; none of
wbom, by this act, were permitted to reside in the
town. In tiie reign of Edward III. the corporation
was deprived of its liberties, and summoned into one
01 the King's courts, to answer " By what authority
they demanded toll, yej, paid none? Why they
claimed the exclusive | "ivilege of dying cloth, and
prohibiting it to be oyfrii in every other plaoe within
ten leagues, except Nottingham ? They were also to
declare hy what right they chose a bailiff yearly, and
why they kept a i'air on Thursday and Friday in
Whitsun week ; and another oi' seventeen days, at
the time of the festival of St. James : to explain by
what authority they had a coroner ; why the bur-
gesses should not be sued out of their own borough ;
and wherefore they held weekly markets on Sunday,
Holiday, Wednesday, and Friday ?" In answer to
these interrogatories, some mutilated charters were
produced : but the liberties of the town were not re-
stored till the inhabitants had paid a fine of forty
marks, and consented to an increase of rent, -which
augmented the annual payment of 46/. 16*. James
I. in the year 1611, granted a charter, which con-
firmed various privileges bestowed in former reigns,
and invested the corporation with some additional
liberties. By this charter, the bailiffs, recorder, and
town-clerk, or any three of them, were privileged to
hold a court of record on every second Tuesday ;
to have the sole return of writs, keep a quarterly
sessions, two eourts-leet, and six annual fairs ; to be
toll free throughout the kingdom ; and receive toll
from all, but the Duchy of Lancaster, which was to
pay only half the sums charged on the inhabitants
of other places. In the year 1638, it was determin-
ed, that the authority of the two bailiffs should, in
future, be vested in one person, who was to be
chosen annually, and called Mayor. In 1680, the
ancient charter was surrendered to Charles the Se-
cond, and the present charter was obtained at the
expence of nearly 400/. At this time the corpora-
tion consists of a mayor, nine aldermen, fourteen
brethren (from whom the aldermen are elected,)
fourteen commou-councilmen, a recorder, a high
steward, and a town-clerk. The privilege of re-
turning the members to Parliament is possessed by
the freemen and sworn burgesses, who are about
700 in number. The assizes are always holden
here ; and also the petty sessions for the hundred.
The market day is Friday ; and the fairs are as fol-
low : January 25; March 21 and 22; Friday in
Easter week ; Friday after May-day ; Friday in
Whitsun week ; July 25 ; September 27, 28, and
29 ; and the Friday betore Old Michaelmas.

The rage for religious persecution, which distin-
guished the reign of Mary, was exercised in this
town on the person of a poor blind woman, named
Joan Waste, who was burnt for maintaining that
the sacrament was only a memorial or representa-
tion ol' the body of Christ; and that the elements
employed in the ordinance, were merely bread a^d
VOL. n. NO. 48,

wine. She was the daughter of a rope-maker, and
assisted her father in his business ; but being accus-
ed for heretical opinions, was summoned before the-
Bishop of the Diocese, whose arguments to induce
her to avow a belief in the real presence proving in-
effectual, she was condemned to the flames ; and
suffered, with exemplary fortitude, at the age of
twenty-two. She was burnt on the first of August,
in a deep excavation, called Windmill-pit, near the
turnpike, on the road leading to Buxtou.

Derby has been visited by the plague several
times, and in the year 1592 and 1593, several hun-
dred inhabitants fell victims to its ravages. In the
register of All Saints parish it is thus noticed :
" October, 1592. The plague began in Derby, in
the house of William Sowter, Bookseller, or
in the parish of All Saints, in Derby, &c. , and it .
continued in the town, the space of twelve months
at the worst, as by the register may appear. "-
" October, 1593. About this tyme the plague of
pestilence, by the great mercy and goodness of Al-
mighty God, stayed, past all expectation of man, for
it rested upon assudayne at what tyme it was dis-
persed in every corner of this whole parishe : thir
was not two houses together fric from it, and yet the
Lord bad the angell stey, as in Davide's tyme ! His
name be blessed for ytt." In 1665, when London
was depopulated by the same dreadful calamity, the
plague again broke out at Derby, and proved so fa-
tal, that the country people refused to bring their
commodities to the market-place. To prevent a fa-
mine, the inhabitants raised a pile of stones in an
open space on the west side of the town, near the
buildings now called Friar-Gate : it received the
name of Headless Cross, and consisted of four or
five quadrangular steps, with one large stone cover-
ing the centre. Hither, after precautionary mea-
sures to prevent infection, the market people resort-
ed, and placing their provisions on the ground, re-
tired to a distance, till the buyer, who was not per-
mitted to toucli any article before purchased, had
concluded his agreement, and deposited the money,
in a vessel filled with vinegar. The plague is s;.id
to have never infected the premises of a tobacconist,'
a tanner, or a shoe-maker.

In the Scotch Rebellion of 1745, Derby was the
furthest place in England reached by the army of
the Pretender. With a handful of adventurers, de-
ceived by the expectation of a mure general rising
in his favour, this misguided wanderer left Scotland,
on his march to the metropolis, and arrived in Der-
by on the 4th of December in that year. His ap-
pearance was not unexpected, and measures had
been taken to provide for the safety of the inhabi-
tants. Nearly 600 men had been raised by a sub-
scription of the gentlemen of the town and county,
besides 156 levied and maintained tit the sole ex-
pence of the Duke of Devonshire. The day previ-
ously to the arrival of the Scotch army, these forces
were reviewed, and went through their exercise so
much to the general satisfaction, that the inhabitants
L were

4*2

DERBYSHIRE.

were in high spirits. Their terror, however, revived,
on hearing that the van-guard of the rebels was ad-
vancing towards Ashborne ; and the confusion was
greatly increased, by the orders which were given to
the soldiers to leave the town, and march tor Not-
tingham. Several of the principal gentlemen and
tradesmen, conveyed away, or secreted, their most
valuable effects, and precipitately departed with their
wives and families.

About eleven o'clock on the fourth, two of the
van-guard of the enemy entered the town, proceeded
to the George Inn, and demanded billets for 9000
.men. Being informed that the magistrates had left
the place, they appeared satisfied ; but afterwards
meeting with ;m alderman, whose lameness had pre-
vented his flight, they obliged him to proclaim the
Prince. In a short time, thirty more of their com-
panions arrived, under the command of JLord Bal-
merino, and were drawn up in the market-place,
where they remained till near three, when they were
joined by Lord Elcho, with the remainder of the
corps, which constituted the Pretender's life-g-uard ;
and being composed of the flower of his army, made
a fine appearance. Soon afterwards, the main body
marched into the town in tolerable order, six or
eight a-breast, hut apparently much fatigued, and
faint with inanition. This part of the army seemed
a mixture of every rank, from boyhood to old age ;
they carried eight white standards, with red crosses.
About dusk, the Prince himself entered the town on
foot, wearing a green bonnet, laced with gold, a
white bob-wig, a Highland -plaid, and broad-sword.
Fie was attended by a considerable body of troops,
who conducted him to the house of Lord Exeter, in
Ifull Street, which became his head-quarters. The
Dukes of Athol and Perth, Lord George Murray,
Lord Balmerino, Lord Pitslego, with other persons
of distinction who accompanied him, and his princi-
pal officers, took possession of the best houses in the
town, whilst their followers were distributed in those
of a secondary or inferior order. Many of the inha-
bitants had forty or fifty men of various ranks quar-
tered upon them ; and some of the more respectable
gentlemen, nearly a hundred. In the evening, the
chiefs of the Pretender's army held a council of war ;
but the only resolution they appear to have formed,
was that of levying a contribution ; and every per-
son in Derby, who had subscribed for the defence of
the government, was obliged to pay a similar sum to
the rebels. "The total amount of the money they col-
lected in various ways, was between two and three
thousand pounds. Great pains were taken to sup-
ply these unwelcome visitors with every necessary
article of food, and every expedient was employed
to prevent insult and depredation ; but all efforts for
this purpose proved ineffectual ; for on the second
day they seized every sort of property, and behaved
with so much violence, that several gentlemen
thought it prudent to conceal themselves. They
also beat up for volunteers, but with very little suc-
cess, as they were joined by only three idle aud un-

principled fellows of the lowest class of people ! Oft
the evening of the second day was held another great
council, at which their debates grew so very warm,
that they were overheard by Mr. Alderman Eaton,
who constantly attended the Duke of Perth, and was
waiting for him near the Prince's lodgings. The
final result of their deliberations was to return to the
north. The principal causes of this resolution were
supposed to be the very small encouragement they
had met with on the road, and the great strength
and quick approaches of the army under the com-
mand of the Duke of Cumberland. Another cir-
cumstance is mentioned at Derby, as having had
some influence on their determination : it is said,
that when the standard of their Prince was taken
into his lodg-ings, it was broken at the entrance into
the door. This incident was considered as ominous
of their future fate, and the minds of some of their
chiefs were a good deal affected by it ! Early in the
morning of the sixth, their drums beat to arms, and
it was supposed the army was preparing to march
towards London, as the advanced guard had secured
the pass at Swarkston Bridge. But about seven
o'clock they commenced a precipitate retreat upon
the Ashborne road ; their hussars riding into the
neighbouring villages, and plundering the inhabitants
of horses, and whatever other property they imagin-
ed would be of service. After the whole of these
unwelcome intruders had quitted Derby, the magis-
trates ordered a return to be made of the numbers
quartered in every house during both nights ; when
the aggregate on the first night, appeared to be
7008; and on the second, 7148 ; exclusive of wo-
men and children. The entire number of effective
men, including the Prince's guard, the guard'of the
artillery, which consisted of thirteen pieces, station-
ed on Nun's Green, and the various patroles and
Gentries, could not be more than about 8000.

Before we proceed to the description of the build-
ings in Derby, we shall just pause, to remark, that
some faint vestiges of an ancient castle may be yet
traced on the elevated ground at the south-east cor-
ner of the town, near the inclosure called Castle-
field. History is silent both as to the time of its
erection and demolition ; but evidence, as to there
having been a fortress here, may be found in several
ancient deeds, which describe a road near the spot
by the name of Castle-gate.

All Saints Church is the principal ornament to
the town ; but it displays a remarkable instance of
architectural incongruity. The tower was erected
in the reign of Henry the Eighth, and its upper part
is richly ornamented with tracery, crockets, high
pinnacles, and battlements ; but the body is Grecian,
of chaste proportion, and most classical design.
The interior is particularly light, elegant, and spa-
cious. The roof is supported by five columns on
each side : the windows are large and handsome;
and the symmetry and hamonious proportions of
the building aave a very pleasing effect. At the
west end is a spacious organ-gallery, furnished with

a good

DERBYSHIRE.

a good orgafl : the east end is separated from the
part of the structure appropriated to public worship,
by* a rich open screen-work of iron. The portion
thus cut off from the body of the church is divided
into three parts. On the northern side is the vestry,
and east entrance to the church ; the centre is an
elegant chancel ; the southernmost is the monuinent-
roorn of the Cavendishes, and many of that illustri-
ous family are buried in the vault beneath. A splen-
did mural monument on the south side of this repo-
sitory, to the memory of the celebrated Countess of
Shrewsbury, was constructed during her life-time,
under her own inspection. In a recess in the lower
part, is the figure of the Countess, arrayed in the
habit of the times, with her head lying on a cushion,
and her hands uplifted in the attitude of prayer.
Beneath is a long genealogical inscription, the bio-
graphical information of which has been given in a
note, appending to- the account of Chatsworth, in a
preceding page. Amongst the other monuments de-
serving of notice in tins division of the church, is
one nearly of the height of twelve feet, which stands
near the centre, and was erected to the memory of
William, Earl of Devonshire, who died on the -20th
of June, 1628 ; and Christian, his Countess, the only
daughter of Lord Bruce, of Kinloss, in Scotland.
Each side of the monument is open ; and in the
middle, under a dome, are whole length figures, in
white marble, of the Earl and his Lady, standing
upright. The angles on the outside are ornamented
with busts of their four children ; William, the eldest,
successor to the Earl ; Charles, Lieutenant-General
of Horse in the Civil Wars ; Henry, who died
young ; and Anne, married to Robert, Lord Rich,
son and heir to Robert, Earl of Warwick. On a
mural monument, by Rysbrach, to the memory of
Caroline, Countess of Besborougli, who died in 1760,
in her forty-first year, is a well-executed figure of
the Countess, reclining and leaning on a cushion,
with a book in her hand. Another neat monument,by
Nollekins,displays the medallion and arms of William
Ponsonby, Earl of Besborougli, and husband to the
above lady, who died in the year 1793. Against the
wall, on the north side of the church, is a curious
old memorial, in honour of Richard Croshaw, the
on of a poor nailor in this town, who went to Lon-
don in a leathern doublet to seek his fortune. Hav-
ing attained considerable affluence, he bequeathed
upwards of 4000/. to the corporation of Derby, for

* ** Dr. Hutchmson," observes Mr. Hutton, " not only
robscrifced 40/. but, being a man of genteel address, charged
himself with raising the whole money, and executing a masterly
work, without a shilliug expence to Ihepansh. He was a com-
plete master of the art of begging. The people to whom he
applied were not able to keep their money ; it passed from
their pockets to his own as if by magic. Wherever he could
recollect a person likely to contribute to this desirable work, he
made no scruple to visit him, at his own expence. He took a
journey to London, to solicit the benefaction of Thomas Cham-
bers, V.~t\. ancestor to the Earl of Exeter, who gave him 100/.
If a stranger passed through Derby, the doctor's bow and his

the maintenance of lecturers, relief of the poor, &c.
It appears by the inscription, that he was Master f
the Goldsmith's Company, and Deputy of Broad-
Street Ward ; and that in the great plague in 1025,
he remained in the city to provide assistance for the
poor, though his own safety was by that means en-
dangered : he died in July, 1831. The donation
called Croshaw's Dole, is the distribution in this
church, of twenty-one pence and seven sixpenny
loaves every Sunday morning, to seven poor persons,
selected alternately from the five parishes of which
the town is composed.

It is believed, that this church lias been twice re-
built. In ancient writings it is called All-hallows ;
a name which it still retains amongst the common
people. In the reign of Edward the First, it was
exempted from all ecclesiastical jurisdiction, but
that of the Pupal ! jee, and is now completely inde-
pendent. It was formerly collegiate, and had a
master and seven prebendaries, whose income, at the
period of the Dissolution, amounted to 39/. 12s.
The house in which the collegians resided, is proba-
bly that which yet bears the name of the College,
near the north side of the church. There is a tradi-
tion, that the tower of All Saints Church was erect-
ed at the expence of the young unmarried inhabi-
tants of the town, and an inscription on the north
and south sides of the i'abric is given in corrobora-
tion of the tale. The words are, " yeung men and
maids ;" but the characters are nearly obliterated.
The height of the tower is upwards of 170 feet.
The design for the body of the church was executed
by Gibbs, the ingenious architect of St. Martin's in
the Kields, London. The money for building it was
chiefly procured through the indefatigable industry
of the minister, whose exertions and success are
thus particularized on a tablet to his memory, placed
against the interior of the south wall :

Of y

In memory

EVI!" MICHAEL HUTCHINSOV. D. D.
Late Minister ot (his Church ;
Who from a pious zeal, anil unwearied implication,

Obtained Subscriptions)

And afterwards collected and paid

Three thousand, two hundred, and fortv-nine pounds,

And upwards, for y* Rebuilding of this Church:

He died yc tenth day of June,

In the vear of our Lord God

KlDCCXXX.*

There

rhetoric were employed in the service ot the church. His an-
xiety was urgent, and his powers so prevailing that he seldom
tailed of success. When -the waites fiddled at his door for a-
Christmas box, instead of sending them away with a solitanr
shilling, he invited them in, treated them with a tankard of ale,
and persuaded them out of a guinea. I have seen his list of
subscribers, which are 589 ; and the sum 3,249V. 1 1*. 6d. But
it appears, he could procure a man's name by his eloquence
easier than his money ; for 52 of his subscribers never paid
their sums, amounting to 137/. Ids. 6d. The remaining 3, II I/.
15s. being defective, he procured a brief, which added 59S/.
5s. Gd. more. Still, though assiduity was not wanting, money

was;

DERBYSHIRE.

There are four other churcliss in Derby, respec-
tively dedicated to St. Alkraund, St. Peter, St. Wer-
burgh, and St. Michael. The first of these is sup-
posed to have been founded as early as the begin-
ning of the ninth century, in honour of Alkmund,
son of Alured, the deposed King of Northumber-
land, who was slain in battle, whilst endeavouring
to reinstate his father. He was first interred at Lit-
tleshull, in Shropshire ; but his credulous adherents
having attributed the power of working miracles to
his remains, he was afterwards removed to Derby,
and interred in the church which now bears his name.
His shrine was frequently visited by his country-
men ; and, previously to the Reformation, many pil-
grimages were made to his tomb. The age of the
present church is considerably posterior to the
Saxon times ; but it is ancient, and exhibits a num-
ber of rude heads, and other sculptures, as orna-
ments.

St. Peter's Church had a chapel founded within
it, about the year 1530, by Robert Lyversage, a
dyer of this town. He endowed it for the perpetual
support of a priest, who was to celebrate divine ser-
vice every Friday, and afterwards distribute a silver
penny to thirteen indigent persons of his congrega-
tion, either men or women. In this church was
also a ebantry, founded in honour of the Blessed
Mary.

St. Werburgh's Church, like All Saints, has a
tower and body of different orders : both, however,
appear to have been erected during the seventeenth
century. The ancient church on this sp'ot was pro-
bably built before the Conquest ; hut, from being
situated near the Markeaton brook, its foundation
was sapped by floods, and in 1601 the tower fell to
the ground. To prevent a similar accident, a new
one was built on a more firm basis, but on the east
side of the body of (he church : the latter suffered
by another Hood, and fell in the year 1698. The
interior of the present fabric is light, and hand-
some.

St. Michael's Church is a small edifice, present-
ing nothing remarkable.

The four last named churches formed part of the
possessions of the Abbey of Darley ; but having
been seized by the Crown in the time of Henry the
Eighth, were afterwards granted to the corporation
of Derby by Queen Mary, together with the church
of All Saints.

Derby contains several meeting-houses for the re-
spective sects of Presbyterians, Independents, Me-
tiiodists, Quakers, &.c.

St. Helen's monastery, which we have before had
occasion to mention, was situated near the upper

was; ho therefore sold six burying places in the vault for six
guiiuMs; and twelve of the principal seats in the church by
inch of candle, for 475/. \3s which were purchased as free-
holds by the first inhabitants. Pride influences our actions ;
nor will it bear contradiction. As the doctor raised the money,
he justly expected to have the disposal ; but the parish consi-
dered themselves neglected, and repeatedly thwarted his mea-

end of Bridge-Gate, on the road leading to Kedle-
ston. In lowering the ground, in its vicinity, about
fourteen or fifteen years ago, the workmen discover-
ed a great number of skulls, and human bones, as
well as several skeletons. Two of the coffins were
formed of tbin Hag stones, placecf edgewise in the
earth, the natural soil serving for the bottoms. The
covers were also composed of flags placed close to-
gether, but not jointed. Most of the other bones
were lying in confusion, without presenting any
marks of a particular mode of interment, and scarce-
ly more than a foot and a half or two feet, in the
earth. It is probable, that this spot was the ceme-
tery of the monastery, particularly as human bones
were found through the. space of thirty or forty
yards. In the skull of an, adult, met with on this
spot, the teeth of both jaws were complete, and per-
fectly sound ; though, judging from circumstances,
it must have been interred several centuries ago ;
for the monastery, which had originally been found-
ed for Austin Canons, by Robert de Ferrariis, se-
cond Earl of Derby, some time between the years
1 134 and 1153, was, early in the reign of Henry the
Second, removed to Darley.

Some of the other religious houses, established in
this town, continued till the reign' of Henry the
Eighth ; but others had previously decayed. On
the north-west side of Nun's Green, anciently called
King's Mead, was a small nunnery of Benedictines,
founded about the year 1160, by an abbot of Darley,
to whom the Bishop of Coventry granted permission
to consecrate the virgins received into it. This esta-
blishment was dedicated to St. Mary De. Pratis : its
endowments were increased both by Henry, the Third
and Fourth, the former of whom ordered five pounds
to be paid yearly by the bailiffs, out of the fee-farm
of Nottingham, that the prayers of the convent might
j be offered up at the throne of Divine Grace, for the
| salvation of his father King John. The ancient mil!,
situated on the Markeaton Brook, on Nun's Green,
belonged to this foundation, as well as the Green it-
self, where some vestiges of the nunnery yet remain.
At the Dissolution its revenues were valued at 18/.
6s. 8i/. The priory of Dominicans, or Black Friars.
i which stood near the spot now occupied by a re-
' spec-table mansion built by Samuel Crompton, Esq.
in tiie Friar-Gate, was founded previously to the
twenty-first of Edward the First ; but the exact
time is uncertain. At the Dissolution its income
was estimated at 18'. 6?. 2rf. and the site of the
priory was then granted to John Hynde ; but it was
I purchased nearly a century ago by the grandfather
of Mr. Crompton. The present garden is thought
to have been the friar's cemetery ; as human bones

sures till, provoked by reiterated insults, he threw up the ma-
nagement, and left them in a iabuinth of their own creating.
The re-ult was a considerable expence upon themselves.
Some things he intended were never limshed ; and sonic
never begun. He pieached the first sermon, November 25/
1725."

were

DERBYSHIRE.

were discovered there at the time of building the
house, the foundations of which were laid with
stones collected from the conventual buildings. A
cell of Cluniac monks, founded here by Waltheof, a
Saxon nobleman, and dedicated to St. James, was
given to the abbey of Bermondsey, in Southwark,
some time before the year 1140. It stood near the
brook on the north of St. James's-Lane ; and though
reckoned among the alien priories in the reign of
Edward the First, it escaped suppression, through
having been protected as a poor hospital by Henry
the Third. It was valued at the Dissolution at
about JO/. An hospital, dedicated to St. Leonard,
and a Maison-Dieu, both instituted for the recep-
tion of lepers, were amongst the re-ligious houses
founded in Derby.

At different times, there have been many small
bequests, for the relief of the poor of the town. One
of the most considerable charities, is the Devonshire
alms-house, whi -h the famous Countess of Shrews-
bury i'ounded, near All Saints Church, in the reign
of Queen Elizabeth. In this asylum eight men and
four womeu an: supported ; each being allowed t\vo
rooms, and hait-a-crown weekly, besides coals. The
statutes made .'or their government, denounce the j
penalty of expulsion against all who either get in-
toxicated, or married. The old alms-house was
taken down about fivc-and-tliirty years ago, and
the present building was erected from an original
plan, at the expence of the Duke of Devonshire.
The design of the front, however, but ill accords
with the nature of the establishment, as the simpli-
city and modest plainness which should exist in a
structure devoted to the purposes of charity, arc
sacrificed to a style of architecture, more suitable,
in the entrance to a nobleman's park, or pleasure
grounds. Another alms-house, for the widows of
five clergymen, was endowed by Edward Large, of
Derby, about the year 1716. Each of the residents
is allowed about seventeen pounds per annum.

In this town, the education of the children of ttie
poor is provided for by a free grammar-school,
which originally belonged to Darley Abbey, but was
granted to the corporation by Queen Mary. Here,
also, are several extensive Sunday-schools.

Amongst the public buildings in this town, are a
County and a Town Hall, a County Goal, an ele-
gant Assembly- Room, and a Theatre. The first of
these is a large, but heavy building of free-stone,
situated in St. Mary's Gate : it was finished in the
year 1660. The town hall, built -by the corporation
about, the year 1730, is a handsome structure, stand-
ing on the site of a more ancient one of wood and
plaster, on the south-east side of the market-place.
The county goal, situated on the east side of the
town, near the upper end of Friar Gate, was erected
abour the year 1756, at the expence of the county,
aided by a donation of 400/. from the Duke of De-
vonshire. It is a very respectable building, well
adapted for the purpose of its destination. The
front is from an excellent design, displaying solidity

VOL. ii. NO. 48.

and strength, without the feast affectation of incon-
gruous ornament. The foundation of the assembly-
room was laid in <he spring of 1763 ; but it was not
completed till the year 1774. It is of stone, and is
situated at the north-east side of the market-place.
The charges of erecting it were defrayed by sub-
scriptions of the nobility and gentry of the county.
On the pediment are sculptured a variety of musical
instruments, figurative of the design of the building.
The theatre, standing in Bold-Lane, is of briek, and
was erected at the expence of Mr. James Whitley, la-
the year 1773 : the interior is neat and commodious.

Amongst the more recent improvements at Derby,
should be mentioned the lighting and paving of the
streets, and the removal of such obstructions as pre-
vented a free passage. These purposes were effect-
ed under the clauses of an act made in the year 1792,
which appointed certain commissioners with full
power to levy a small rate on the inhabitants, and
also to sell all the common land belonging to Nun's
Green ; the sums thus produced to be applied ia
dof raying the necessary charges. Several of the
bridges across the Markeaton Brook, which flows
through a considerable part of the town, have since
been removed ; and three new ones, of stone, erect-
ed by a general subscription. A new and elegant
bridge of three arches has also been built over the
Derwent ; and, with the silk-mill, the weirs, and
the broad expance of the river, it forms a very pleas-
ing prospect on entering the town from the Notting-
ham road.

Science and literature meet with great encourage-
ment here. This, probably, may be ascribed to ^
Philosophical Society, established in Derby about
forty years ago, under the patronage of the late
Richard French, Esq. and Dr. Darwin. Several
book societies have also been instituted.

In the vicinity of this town are numerous pleasing
walks, and much delightful scenery. On WindmiM
Hill, at a short, distance, a neat prospect-house was
erected, some years ago, by a Mr. Robinson, from
which the views over the adjacent county are very
extensive and delightful.

Situated on the banks of the Derwent, Derby
constitutes a spot eminently favourable for the in-
stitution, and carrying on, of manufactures which
require the aid of water ; and various works have
consequently been established, either in the town, or
its immediate vicinity. Their success, (oo, has been
surprisingly promoted by the judicious application
of machinery ; and mills on the most improved conr
struction have been erected here for a variety of pur-
poses. Those for the manufacture of cotton, are
particularly ingenious ; and the facility attained by
them in working stockings, figured pieces for waist-
coats, and many other articles, have greatly contri-
buted to the extension of this branch of business.
One of these floors being all constructed on brick
arches, and paved with brick, by which means it is
rendered absolutely indestructible by fire. This
building is 6 stories high, 1 15 feet long, and 30 feet
M wide ;

DERBYSHIRE.

wide ; it was erected in the year 1703, and was the
first fire-proof mill ever built.

* The manufacture of silk, at Derby, is said to afford em-
ployment to upwards of 1000 persons, including children and
women. The work is chiefly performed by machines, or mills,
various in size, and somewhat different in construction. The
original mill, called the Silk Mill, to denote its pre-eminence,
being the first and largest of its kind ever erected in England,
stands upon an island in the river Derwent. Its history is re-
markable, as it displays the power of genius, and the vast influ-
ence which even the enterprises of an individual have on ll.e
commerce of a country. The Italians are known to have been
Jong in exclusive possession oi the art of silk-throwing, and the
merchants of other nations were consequently dependant on
them for their participation in a very lucrative article ot trade,
and were frequently deprived of their fair profits, by the exor-
bitant prices charged for the original material. At the com-
mencement of the last century, a person, named Crocket,
erected a small mill, near the present works, with an intention
of introducing the silk manufacture into England ; but his ma-
chinery being inadequate to the purpose, he became insolvent,
and the design was for some time abandoned. About the year
1715, a similar idea began to expand in the mind of an excellent
mechanic and draughtsman, named John Lomhe, who, though
young, resolved on the perilous task of travelling into Italy, to
procure drawings, or models, of the machines nece-sary for the
undertaking. In that country he remained some time; but as
admission to the silk- works was prohibited, he could only obtain
access by corrupting two workmen, through whose assistance he
inspected the machinery iu private ; and whatever parts he ob-
tained a knowledge of during these visits, he recorded on paper
before he slept. He thus made himself acquainted with the
whole; and had just completed his plan, when his intention
was discovered, and his life being in extreme hazard, he (lew
with precipitation, and took refuge on ship board. The two
Italians who had favoured his scheme, and whose lives were in
qual danger with h:s own, accompanied him, and they ail soon
landed with safety in Kngland, about the year 1/17. Fixing on
Derby as a proper place for his purpose, Lombe agreed with
the corporation for an island, or swamp, in the river, 500 feet
long, and 52 wide, at a yearly rent somewhat belojv eight
pounds. Here he established his silk mill ; but during the time
employed in its construction, he erected temporary machines in
the Town Hall, and various other places; by which means he
not only reduced the price of silk far below that of the Italians,
but was enabled to proceed with his greater undertaking, though
the charge amounted to nearly 30.000/. In the year 1718, he
procured a (latent to enable him to secure the profits, thus aris-
ing from his address and ingenuity, for the term of fourteen
years; but his days verged to a close, and, before half that pe-
riod had elapsed, treachery and poison had brought him to the
grave. The Italians, whose trade rapidly decreased, from the
success of the new establishment, were exasperated to venge-
ance, and vowed the destruction of the man whose ingenuity
had thus turned the current of their business into another chan-
nel. An artful woman was sent from Italy in the character of
a friend ; she assciated with the parties, and was permitted to
assist in the preparation of the silk. Her influence, it appears,
was privately exerted on the persons who had fled with Mr.
Lombe from Italy, and, succeeding with one, she prepared to
execute the long meditated plan of death. Her victim lingered
in agony two or three years, when he breathed his last. Slow
poison is supposed to nave been the means employed to de-
prive him of existence; and though suspicion was almost
strengthened into certainty, by the circumstance which trans-
pired on the examination of the woman, the evidence was not
decisive, and she was discharged. Her associate had previously
escaped to his own country. The other Italian, whose name
was Gartrevalli, continued in Derby, and afterwards worked at
the silk mill erected at Stockport, in Cheshire; but died in
poverty. The funeral of John Lombe was celebrated in a style

Silk,* as well as cotton, is manufactured in Der-
by to great extent. Here is also a Porcelain manu-
facture,

of considerable magnificence. His death did not, as the Ita-
lians hoped, prove fatal to his scheme, for the machinery was
in full action, and the business becoming more successful, gave
employment to about 300 people. John Lombe was succeed-
ed by his brother William, whose melancholy disposition led
him to commit suicide; on which the property descended to
his cousin, Sir Thomas Lombe. Shortly afterwards, on August
tlie 29th, 1724, the lease of the ground was signed by the cor-
poration ; for, though the building had been long completed,
the deeds had not hitherto been exchanged. Previously to the
expiration of the patent, Sir Thomas petiti lied Parliament for
a renewal, pleading, "That the works had taken -,o long a time
in perfecting, and the people in teaching, that there had been
none to acquire emolument from the patent." 1 his statement
wasjiot correct; for it appears that the petitioner had already
accumulated upwards of 80.000/. The application, howrver,
was not altogether unsuccessful; for government, willing to
reward the promoters of national benefit, and at the same time
to spread the know ledge of such a useful invention, granted him
14.000/. in lieu of a new [latent, and on condition that he should
suffer a complete model of the works to be taken: this was ac-
cordingly executed, and afterwards deposited in the Tower for
public' inspection. Sir Thomas Lombe dy ng on the 3d of
February, 1738, the silk mill became the properly ot his lady.
It was twice advertised for public sale; but me trade being
greatly decayed, through the erection of mills in other places,
no bidders could be found, though the second time the works
were put up at as low a sum as 1000/. In the following year,
the lease was assigned from Lady Lombe to Richard Wilson,
Esq. and the property transferred to the latter, for a turn not
exceeding 4000/. The premises were occupied many years by
a Mr. Swift, who made various important additions to the ma-
chinery, and employed about 240 hands, (principally women
and children ;) but die lease continued in the possession of the
Wilson family, till its expiration, in the year 1803. The ex-
tensive fabric* containing the machinery, was raised upon huge
piles of oak, doubly planked, and covered with stone-work, on
which were turned thirteen stone arches, sustaining the walls.
Its whole length was 110 feet ; its breadth, 39; and its height,
55 feet 6 inches. It contained five stories, beside (he under
works, and was lighted by 468 windows. In the three upper
stories were the Italian winding engines, placed in a regular
manner across the apartments, and furnished with many thou-
sand swifts and spindles, and engines tor working them. In the
two lower rooms were the spinning and twist mills, all of a cir-
cular form, turned by vertical shafts passing through their
centres, and communicating with shafts from the water-wheel.
Their diameter was between twelve and thirteen feet ; and their
height, nineteen feet eight inches. The spinning mills, eight
in number, gave motion to upwards of 25,000 reel bobbins, and
nearly 3000 star-wheels belonging to the reels. Each of the
four twist mills continued four rounds of spindles, about 389 of
which were connected with each mill, as well as numerous reels,
bobbins, star-wheels, &c. The whole of this elaborate machine,
though distributed through five large apartments, was put in
motion by a single water-wheel, twenty-three feet in diameter,
situated on the west side of (he building. In a mill upon this
principle, all is whirling, and in motion, and appears as though
directed and animated by some invisible power ; yet mutually
dependent as every part is, any one of them may be stopped
and separated at pleasure. This arises from every movement
being performed by two wheels, one of which is turned by the
other ; but when separated, the latter preserves its rotorary mo-
tion, while the other stops as the impelling power no longer
operates. The whole number of wheels is about 14,000. All
the operations are performed here, from winding the raw silk,
to organizing or preparing it for the weavers. The raw silk is
chiefly brought in skains, or hanks, from China and Piedmont.
The skain is first placed on a hexagonal wheel or swift ; and

the

DERBYSHIRE.

ftictnre, which was established about the year 1750,
h-y the late Mr. Duesburg ;* and a manufacture of
Derbyshire marble an:l spar ornaments. f Of more
recent origin, in this town, or its immediate vicinity,
are the following concerns : a mill, for the manu-
facture oi' tinned plates ; a furnace for the smelting
of copper into ore, with a machine for converting the

the filaments which compose it are regularly wound off upon a
cylindrical block of wood, or bobbin. To wind a single skain
is the work of five or six days, though the machine is kept in
motion ten hours daily. In this part of the process many chil-
dren are employed, whose nimble tinkers are kept in continual
exercise b) tying; the thread which break, and removing the
burs and uneven parts. The silk thus wound upon the bobbins,
is afterwards twisted by other parts of (lie machinery, and is
then sent to the doublet's, who are chiefly women, stationed in
a detached building, which stands on the same island, on piles
like the silk mill ; and though not^h.ilf so broad, is nearly thirty
feet longer. II ere four, seven, or ten, of the 'breads are united
into one, according to the uses for which they are designed;
the fine kind going to the stocking-weaver ; the others to the
manufacturer of waistcoat-pieces, &c. It has frequently been
saul, that when the machine "is completely in motion, it works
73,726 yards of organzine silk thread by every revolution of the
waler-wneel, which turns once round every nineteen seconds ;
but the most cursory inspection ot the inachine is sufficient to
convince any person, that the number of yards wound every
circuit of the wheel cannot be known ; lor the threads are so
frequently breaking not to mention other difficulties which
render the attempt insuperable that the power of arithmetic
must ever be inadequate to ascertain the number.

* The most considerable improvements have been effected
in the manufacture since the decease of Mr. Duesbury, through
the judicious methods employed in preparing the paste, and in-
creasing the beauty of the "decorations. The texture of the
ware is not of equal fineness with the French and Saxon ; its
workmanship, and ornaments, are far superior. The paintings
are, in general, rich, and well executed ; and the gilding and
burnishing exceedingly beautiful. The body of the ware,
called porcelain, is line white clay, combined with different
proportions of fluxing matter. The best kind is absolutely in-
fusible, and takes for its glaze a vitreous substance, without a
particle of lead. When the paste is duly prepared, by grind-
ing, and other operations, it is consigned to the workmen, whose
dexterity converts it into a variety of beautiful forms. Round
vessels are- usually made by a man called a thrower, who works
them on a circular block, which moves horizontally, on a verti-
cal spindle. From him they pass to the lathe, and are reduced
to their proper thickness and form at the end of an horizontal
spindle. Afterwards they are finished, and handled if neces-
sary, by othi r persons, and are then conveyed to a sto* e, where
they remain till the moisture is entirely evaporated, when they
become fit for baking. Oval vessels, such as tureens, teapots',
&c. acquire their form by being pressed into moulds of plaster,
or gypsum, by hand. The saggars, or cases, in which the arti-
cles are burnt, are set in the kiln, or oven, one upon the other,
and %vhen piled up nearly to the top, have somewhat the ap-
pearance of piles of cheese. When the kiln is full, it js care-
fully closed, and the ware baked by the admission of heat
through horizontal and vertical flues; this is the first baking;
and the porcelain in this state is technically called biscuit. It
is then dipped in glaze of about the consistence of cream, and
carried to the glaze kiln, where it is again baked, but in a less
intense degree of heat than before. The ware is now delivered
to the painters, who, with colour prepared from mineral bodies,
ornament it with landscapes or.figtires, as required. After this
process, it is again conveyed to the kiln, and the colours vitri-
fied, in order to fix, and give them a proper degree of lustre.
Every coat, or layer of colouring, requires a fresh burning :
once or twice is sufficient for the ornaments of the common

copper into sheets ; a mill, for the slitting and roll-
ing of iron, for various purposes, &c. A tew years
ago, a bleaching ground was opened on Nun's
Green, where the different processes are performed
according to the new chemical improvements.

Amgngst the distinguished persons to which thn
town of Derby has had the honour of giving birth

porcelain ; but the more elaborate decorations render it neces-
sary lor the colours to be laid on, and undergo the action of lire
several times, before they obtain their full effect and beauty.
This completes the process of those articles whu.h have no guld
in their pattern ; but where this addition is wanted, they are
pencilled with a mixture of oil and gold dissolved, or "thrown
down," by quicksilver, aidtd by heat; and once more com-
mitted to the kiln : here the gold re assumes soliditv, but conies
out with a dull surface, which is rendered brilliant by rubbirg
with blood-stones, and other polishing substances. The porce-
lain is now ready for use. The highest finished ware in this
mtluiifactory is frequently returned to the enamel kiln, where
the colours are fluxed six or seven times: the best only is here
finished for sale. Table services, &c. are made here, which,
from the exquisite beauty of their pictorial decorations, cost at
the rate of ten guineas each plate. The making of biscuit figures,
or white ware, is pi'tuliar to this manufactory; and they are
supposed to be equal in beauty and delicacy, to any that are
made in Europe. Here the lathe is of no use, the figures bein^
all cast in moulds of plaster or gypsum, into which the materials
are poured, having previously been reduced to a liquid of the
con-istence and appearance of thick cream. The water COH-
tained in the mixture is quickly absorbed by the plaster, and
the paste becomes sufficiently hard and (enatious to part Ircelv
from the mould. The various parts of the figures, as the head,
arms, legs, &c. are cast in separate moulds, and when dried and
repaired, are joined by a paste of the same kind, but thinner
than the former. The articles are then sent to the kiln, and,
after undergoing a regular and continued heat, come out ex-
tremely white and delicate. The manufactory, though of five
times the extent of the original building, was found insufficient
some years ago tor the number of workmen wanted. Addi-
tional buildings have consequently been erected, upon a grand
and comprehensive plan. The manufactory now occupies an
area equal to 6000 square yards, and affords sufficient room for
the employment of between 300 and 400 workmen; the front
extends nearly 170 feet.

f The manufactory for cutting and polishing marble, and
manufacturing the Derbyshire fluor spar, or liiue John, and
gypsum, into a variety of beautiful ornaments, as urns, vases,
columns, obelisks, &c. was formerly carried on in the building
which was erected by Mr. Crocket for the original silk mill.
The machinery applied to execute the present purposes, is of
very ingenious construction. When the Blue John is to be
converted into a vase, or any other ornamental form which
renders the use of the lathe necessary, it is carved with a mallet
and chissel, into a rude resemblance of the object intended to
be produced and being afterwards strongly cemented to a plug
or chock, is screwed upon the lathe. A slow motion is then
given to the work ; and a bar of steel, about two feet long, and
half an inch square, properly tempered, and pointed at each
end, is applied t the lluor, on which water is continually drop-
ping, to keep the tool cold, preserve it from friction, and enable
it more readily to reduce the substance upon which it acts. As
the surface becomes smoother, the tool is applied with more
freedom, and the motion of the lathe accellerated, till the floor
has assumed its required elegance of form. When the turning
is completed, pieces of grit-stone, ot different degrees of fine-
ness, are applied with water to bring the article to a proper
ground for polishing with fine emery, tripoli, and putty, or calx
of tin. These means are continued till the fluor is incapable of
receiving a higher degree ol polish ; which is known when water
throws on it will no longer increase its lustre. The same wheel

whiftfc

DERBYSHIRE.

to Flamstead, the astronomer,* and Wright, the
j>a'nter,t are particularly entitled to notice. J

which gives motion to the lathes for manufacturing the fluor
spar, &c. is applied to work the machinery for sawing and po-
lishing marble, and other purposes. On the vibrating poles to
which the cranks are fixed arc sliding boxes, containing sets of
saws, which are nothing more than thin plates of soft iron, which
sink as they cut the marble. These are supplied with sand and
water; aim being moveable with screws, may be arranged at
different distances, so that the slabs may be cut of any thickness.
A set of saws consists of a different number of plates, so that the
block to which they are applied, may be separated at one pro-
cess into as many slabs as may be thought necessary. The slabs
thus sawn are taken to the polishing bed, which has four wheels,
that move on a gangway with a very slow motion, given by a
worm and crank. One of the slabs being fixed on this bed, an-
other is fastened above it to an arm attached to a vibrating pole,
which works with a quick motion in a transverse direction.
The slabs thus moving in contact with each other, and being
supplied with sand and water, soon acquire a level surface, when
finer materials are employed, as in the working of the fluor spar,
to increase their smoothness, and give them a high and beautiful
polish. As the ground on which this manufactory stood belong-
ed to the corporation, and the lease expired at the same period
as that of the silk mill, the proprietors purchased an extensive
piece ofland, which formerly belonged to Si. Helen's Monas-
tery, on the road leading to Kedleston. There they erected
some very spacious work-shops, and a steam-engine of a six-
horse power, to give motion to the ingenious machinery which
they employ.

* John 1'lainstead, or Flamsteec!, was born at Derby, in the
year 1646. His early education was at the free-school ; but
the prosecution of his studies being prevented by sickness, he
was taken home, where the accidental perusal of John deSacro-
bosco's book, " De Sphxra," gave him that taste for astrono- '
jnical science which terminated only with his life. His first
attempts in astronomy were calculations of the places of the
planets, and of an eclipse of the sun by the Caroline Tables.
The latter procured him the acquaintance of Mr. Emanuel Hal-
ton, a mathematician of some eminence, who re/ided at Wing-
field Manor. Finding that young Flamstead was retarded in
his pursuits by the want of books, that gentleman supplied him
with the best astronomical works then extant. From this time
he proceeded with great success; and having, in 1669, calculat-
ed some remarkable eclipses of the fixed stars, which occurred
the year following, he obtained the thanks of the Royal Society,
and the correspondence of several of its members. To increase
liis knowledge, and to preserve the reputation which he had
thus acquired, lie entered himself a student of Jesus College,
Cambridge. In his way to the university, in 1674, he was
informed by Sir Jonas Moore, that a true account of the tides
would be acceptable to the King: he therefore embraced the
opportunity of recommending himself to royal favour, by com-
posing a small ephemeris for his Majesty's use ; in the course of
which, he pointed out the falseness of astrology, and the igno-
rance of those who pretend to it. In the following year he had
the honour of being appointed astronomer to the King, with the
salary of 100/. annually. The foundation of the royal observa-
tory at Greenwich was then laid, and he was Ihe first resident
and astronomer royal : it was called Flamstead House, by which
name it continues to be known. Soon after his appointment,
he entered into orders ; and, in the year 1684, he was presented
with the living of Bu.stow, in Surrey, which he held to the time
of his death, on th last day of December, 1719. Various
discoveries in astronomy and various improved instruments for
making observations, rewarded the perseverance with which this
ardent lover of science pursued his studies. For " more than
forty years," says Dr. Keil, " with indefatigable pains, Mr.
Flamstead has watched the motions of the fixed stars, and has
given us instruments exactly divided by exquisite art, and fitted
with tcli^copical sights," &c. The bfitish catalogue of the

DEVIL'S CAVE.] The Devil's Cave, or, as some
call it, the Peak Cavern, one of the wonders of the

Peak,

fixed stars which he composed, contains about 3000, being twice
the number of those given in the catalogue of Hevelius. This
catalogue, intituled " Historia Ccclestis Britannica," was pub-
lished, at the expence of George, Prince of Denmark, in three
splendid volumes (olio. In the Philosophical Transactions are
many of Mr. Flamstead's. papers ; and in Sir Jon;is Moore's
System of Mathematics is a tract by him on the Doctrine of the
Sphere.

f Joseph Wright, generally distinguished by the appellation
of " Wright of Derby," was born on the 3d of September,
1734, He w-as son of a" respectable attorney. During his youth,
he displayed a great fondness for mathematical employments.
This attachment was succeeded by a taste for drawing; and his
early merit in taking likenesses, occasioned him to be sent to
London in the year 1751, and placed under a portrait painter
named Hudson, who, though not a person of extraordinary
talents, had the honour of instructing three of the most eminent
painters of the age; Sir Joshua Reynolds, Mortimer, and
Wright. With him he continued two years ; when he returned
to Derby, and practised in the portrait line ; but not being
satisfied "with his own performances, lie went back to London,
in 1756, and continued fifteen months longer with Hudson.
On his second return to Derby, he executed several portraits in
a superior style ; and soon alter the year 1760, he produced a
set of Historical pictures, which deservedly rank amongst the
earliest valuable productions of the English school. The prin-
cipal of these were the Gladiator, Orrery, Air-pump, Hermit,
and Blacksmith's Forge ; paintings which determined his repu-
tation as an artist, long prior to the establishment of the Royal
Academy. The jealousy, however, of some of the members
prevented his being elected an R. A. a distinction that was
afterwards gratuitously offered by the hands of their secretary,
Newton, who was deputed to visit him at Derby, and solicit his
acceptance of a diploma, which he then indignantly rejected.
At a mature age, Mr. Wright visited Italy, where he remained
two years, studying the works of the first masters, especially
those of Michael Angelo in the Capella Sistina of the Vatican ;
of many of which he made accurate drawings. During his stay
in Italy, he had an opportunity of seeing a memorable eruption
of Vesuvius, which increased his passion for representing extra-
ordinary effects of light, and his respective paintings of this
sublime event are deservedly ranked as chef d'oeuvres in that
line. His moon-lights are also particularly beautiful ; and his
mountain and lake scenery superior to most similar productions.
On such subjects his pencil was last employed ; and his views
of Ullswater Lake, from Lyulph's Tower, has been considered
as the finest of all his landscapes, and a work which alone would
place his reputation on a level with that of the most eminent
masters. He died on the 29th of August, 1797, esteemed and
lamented by all who were honoured with his friendship ; though
the time he devoted to his professional studies, prevented the
circle of his acquaintance from becoming extensive. " It is
pleasing to record," observes Dr. Gisborne, his biographer in
the Monthly Magazine for 1797, " that in his works the atten-
tion is ever directed to the cause of virtue ; that his eai ly histo-
rical pictures consist of subjects either of rational or moral im-
provement ; and he has succeeded admirably in arresting the
gentler feelings of humanity ; for what eye or heart ever re-
mained unmoved at the sight of Maria, Sterne's Captive, or the
Dead Soldier ! In his works, not ' one immoral, one corrupted
thought,' occurs to wound the eye of delicacy, or induce a wish
that so exquisite a pencil had not found employment on more
worthy subjects."

I Another gentleman though we are not certain whether he
were born in Derby here also strongly claims our attention.
On the 24th of February, 1810, died Mr. Henry Cavendish,
son of the late Lord Charles Cavendish, great uncle to the
present Duke of Devonshire. His remains were removed
from his house at Clapham, to be privately interred in the

family

DERBYSHIRE.

Peak, is situated beneath the hill of Castleton. The
entrance to this wonderful cavern is extraordinarily
magnificent ; being in a (lark and gloomy recess,
formed by a chasm in the rocks, which range per-
pendicularly on each side to a considerable height.
On the steep side of the mountain is a large opening,
almost in the form of an old Gothic arch, extending
in width 120 feet, and in height 4$. This arch,
formed by nature at the bottom of a rock, whose '
height is 87 yards, is chequered with a diversity of j
coloured stones, from which continually drops a ;
sparry water that petrifies. Immediately within the )
urch is a cavern nearly of the same height and width, |
and in receding depth about 90 feet ; the roof, which j
is of solid rock, is flat, and. wears an appalling ap- j
pcarance, having nothing but the side wails to sup- |
port it. Within the gulph some twine-makers have
established their manufactory and residence, and the
combination of their machines and rude dwellings,
with the sublime features of the natural scenery, has
a very singular effect. Towards the farther end, from
the entrance, the roof comes down with a gradual
slope to about two feet from the surface of the water,
fourteen yards over, the rock in that place forming
a kind of arch, under which the visitant is conveyed
in a small boat ; beyond this stream is a spacious
vacuity, opening in the bosom of the rocks ; and iu
% passage at the inner extremity of this vast cavern,
the stream which (lows through the bottom spreads
into what is called the second \vator ; but this can
generally be passed on foot, though at other times
the assistance of the guide is requisite ; at a short
distance farther is a third water, where the rock,
sloping as it were, almost down to the surface of the
water, puts an end to the traveller's search. Some
years ago, a Mr. Ferguson made, and published a

family vault, in All Sairtts Church, Derby. This gentleman
had tendered himself familiarly conversant with every partot Sir
Isaac Newton's philosophy, the principles of which he applied,
nearly forty years ago, to an investigation of the laws on which the
phenomena of electricity depend. Pursuing the same science, on
the occasion of Mr. Walsh's experiment with the torpedo, he
gave a satisfactory explanation of. the remarkable powers of elec-
trical fishes; pointing out that distinction between common and
apinial electricity, which has since been amply confirmed by the
brilliant discoveries in Galvinism. Having aimed his attention
very early to pneumatic chemistry, he ascertained, in 1766, the
extreme levity of inflammable air, now called hydrogen gas.
On this discovery, many curious experiments, and particularly
I hat of aerial navigation, have been founded. In the same path
of science, he made the important discovery of the composition
of water by the union of two airs ; and thus laid the foundation
of the modern system of chemistry, which rests principally on
Ibis fact, nnd that of the decomposition of water, announced, soon
afterwards, by M. Lavoisier. As the purity of atmospherical
air had been a subject of controversy, Mr. C. contrived essen-
tial improvements in the method of performing experiments
with an eudiometer; by meaiis of which he was the first who
shewed that the proportion of pure air in the atmosphere is
nearly the same in all open places. The other, and much larger,
portion of our atmosphere, lie sagaciously conjectured to be the
basis of tin- acid of nitre; an opinion that lie soon brought to
the test by an ingenious and laborious experiment, which com-
pletely proved (s truth; whence this air hasnow very generally
VOL. n. j,'o. 49.

particular survey of this cnvern. After describing
the entrance, and kis arrival at the first water, (hi*
gentleman proceeds as follo\j, in his narrative :

" The rock, .in this place form's a kind of arch,
under which 1 was pushed by my guide across the
water in a long oval tub, _as I lay on ray back iu
straw, with a candle in my hand, and was for the
greatest part on the river so Hear the arched roof,
that it touched my hat if I raised my head but two
inches from the ^traw on which I lay in the tub
(called the boat), which I believe was not above a
foot iu depth. When landed on the farther side of
this water, and helped out of the boat by my guide,
1 was conducted through a low place into a cavern
seventy yards wide, and forty yards high, in the top
of which are several openings upwards, reaching so
high that Fcould not see their tops. On one side of
tliis place 1 saw several young lads, with candles in
their hands, clambering up a very rough stony ascent,
and they disappeared when about half way up. 1
asked my guide who they were, and he told me they
were the singers, and that I should soon see them
again, for that they were going through an opening
that led into the next cavern. At 87 yards from the
first water I came to a second, nine yards and a half
broad, over which my guide carried me on his back.
I then went under three natural arches, at some dis-
tance from one another,- and all of them pretty regu-
lar ; then entered a third cavern, called Roger Rain's
House, because there is a continual dropping on on*
side of it, like a moderate rain. I no sooner entered
this cavern than 1 was agreeably surprised by a me-
lodious singing, which seemed to echo on all sides ;
and on looking back, I saw the above-mentioned
lads, in a large round opening called the chancel,
19 yards above the bottom where 1 stood : they sing

obtained the name of nitrogen. So many and such great dis-
coveries, spread his fame throughout Europe, and he was uni-
vcrsally considered as one of the first philosophers of the age.
Among the labours of luj later days, is the nice and difficult
experiment by which <ff determined the mean density of the
earth ; an element of consequence in delicate calculation of
astronomy, as well as in geological inquiries. Kven in the last
year of his lile, at the advanced age of seventy-seven, he pro-
posed and described improvements in the manner of dividing
large astronomical instruments ; which, though not yet executed,
promise very great advantages. These pursuits, together with
reading of various kinds, by which lie acquired a deep insight
into almost every topic of general knowledge, formed the whole
occupation of liis life, and were, in fact, his sole amusement.-
The love of truth was sufficient to fill his miud. From his
attachment to such occupations,, and the constant resource lie
found in them, togethei with a shyness and diffidence natural
to his disposition, his early habits had been secluded. His
manners were mild, his mind firm, his nature benevolent and
complacent. He was liberal without being profuse; and
cluntiiblr, without ostentation. He possessed great affluence,
which was to him rather matter of embarrassment than of
gratification; but, howevep'careless about its improvement,
he was regular in its management and direction. He was
born October 10, 1731. The stamp duty uppn Mr. Caven-
dish's will, amounted to 42,000/.

DERBYSHIRE.

for what visitors please to give them as they return.
The effect of slow solemn music 1 in this situation is
wonderful it is impossible to describe it. The
lights, dispersed in various parts of the gloomy ca-
vern, appearing like stars, the stillness of the scene,
save the patterings of the water in the rainy cell,
form an uncommon admixture of the sublime and
beautiful, and conspire, with the solemnity of the
airs they sing 1 , to turn the mind to meditation ; na-
ture appears in awful majesty before you, and you
may easily fancy yourself transported into another
world. At the top of a steep, rugged, stony, ascent,
on one side of this cavern, I saw a small irregular
hole, and asked my guide whether there was another
cavern beyond it. He told me there was ; but that
yery few people ventured to go through into it, on
account of the frightful appearance at the' top of the
hole, where the stones seemed to be almost loose, as
if ready to fall, and close up the passage. I told
him, that, it' he would venture through, I would fol-
low him : so I did, creeping flat, the place being
rather too low to go on all fours : we then got into
long, narrow, irregular, and very high cavern,
which has surprising openings, of various shapes, at
top, too high to see how far they reach. We re-
turned through the hole into Roger Rain's House
again, and from thence went down 50 yards lower,
on wet sand, wherein steps are made for conveni-
ence ; at the bottom of which we entered into a ca-
Tern called the Devil's Cellar, in which my guide
told me there had been many bowls of good rum-
punch made and drunk, the water having been heat-
ed by a (ire occasionally made for that purpose. In
the roof of this cellar is a large opening, through
which the smoke of the fire ascends, and has been
seen by many people above-ground to go out at the
top of the rock ; but this opening is so irregular and
crooked, that no stone let down from the top was
ever known to fall quite through into the cavern.
From this place I was conducted a good way on-
ward, under a roof too low to let one walk upright,
and then entered a cavern called the Bell, because
the top of it is shaped something like the inside of a
bell ; hence I was conducted through a very low ,
place into a higher, in the bottom of which runs a !
third water ; here you are shewn a line, about the
height of your shoulders, at which the water arrives
in the time of heavy rains. The roof of that place i
slopes gradually downward till it comes within five :
inches of the surface of the running water under it. ;
My guide then told me, that I was just 207 yards :
below the surface of the ground, and 750 yards from :
the first entrance into the rock, and that there was
no going any farther. This however is not supposed
to be the end of the cavern, and, as a considerable
stream of water runs through a small opening at the j
extremity, many people think it continues farther. '
Some few years ago, a gentleman was determined
to try if ho could not dive under the rock, and rise
iu the cavern which is supposed to be still beyond i
it ; he. plunged in, but struck his head against the j

rock, and fell motionless to the bottom, from which
the attendants with difficulty dragged him out.
They hav.e lately been at the trouble and expence of
blowing up a part of the rock at this extremity, t
try if they could discover any landing-place beyond
it ; but to no purpose the water is seven feet deep
where the rock closes again. Before I quit this
spot, I must not omit mentioning the staggering
effect of a blast, as they style it, occasioned by a small
quantity of gunpowder crammed into a rock, and
set fire to. The explosion is wonderfully grand ;
heaven and earth seem coming together. All visi-
tors are treated with this salute, and we, of course,
had our share of it. Throughout the whole I found
the air very agreeable, and warm enough to bring
on a moderate perspiration, although, less than a
fortnight before (this was in the month of October)
all the caverns beyond the first river, where I was
ferried under the low arch, had been filled to a con-
siderable height with water during a flood occasioned
by great and long-continued rain."

It has been remarked, that " the effect of light,
when returning from the recesses of the cavern is
particularly impressive ; and the eye, unaccustomed
to the contrast, never beholds it without lively
emotions of pleasure. The gradual illumination of
the rocks, which become brighter as they approach
the entrance, and the chastened blaze of day, that,
' shorn of its beams,' arrays the distance to morn-
ing serenity, is perhaps, one of the most beautiful
scenes that the pencil could be employed to ex-
hibit."

A Mr. Sullivan thus relates the particulars of a
descent, which appears to have been far more dan-
gerous than that described by Mr. Ferguson :

" The spirit of curiosity had so warped our ra-
tional faculties, and danger was become so familiar
to us, that we determined upon a plan that wiser
men would have shuddered at the idea of. This
was no other than exploring a prodigious cavern,
said to be three miles in length, and strongly sup-
posed by the miners to have a communication with
the Priak Cavern, as they insist upon it the same
river runs through both. Summoning therefore a
posse comitatus of the miners about Castleton, we
in brief told them our intention. Astonishment at
first prevented them from thinking us serious ; none
but two or three had ever ventured upon a trial ; and
even custom had not reconciled the others to so ha-
zardous an enterpri/e. A promise of reward, how-
ever, prevailed upon the whole, and they agreed to
attend us in the morning. In the meantime a mes-
senger being dispatched to Sheffield for torches, we
began, with all due form, to prepare for our descent :
this was soon accomplished. A paper of memoran-
dums, and a card, in case of an accident, telling who
our friends were, and where they were to he found,
were left upon our table in the inn. Thus guarding
against the worst that could befal us, at least so tar
as it respected matters wtrch we should no longer
have any concern in, we early the next morning,

DERBYSHIRE.

accompanied by a chosen set of our guides, repaired
to the top of the mountain, where the seissure opeus
itself about three feet in diameter. Provided by the
miners with proper dresses, we then stripped our-
selves of our own outward apparel, and putting' on
euch a pair of canvas trowsers, it flannel jacket, and
over that a canvas frock, with a handkerchief round
our heads, and a miner's cap, we proceeded one by
one down this dreadful abyss, for the distance of
about 120 feet perpendicular. Imagination can
scarcely form a descent more perilous. The only
steps or things to hold by are bits of oak stuck into
the sides, inhabitants of the place since it was first
discovered, and which, from want of use, it was na-
tural might have either rotted or loosened themselves
in the earth ; moreover, a false step hurled one in-
evitably to destruction : fortunately all was firm, aud
we arrived at the bottom unhurt. Here ranging
ourselves in order, with a large bundle of candles
and torches, independent of the candles which each
of us carried, we proceeded with tolerable facility
through two or three lofty aud most beautifully en-
amelled caverns of spar. This was conceived an
earnest of future delight, and the tablets were ac-
cordingly set at work ; but, alas, how great was our
mistake ! Here our difficulties were to commence.
Following the guide, who, besides another who
was with us, was the only one of the party who had
ever penetrated bafore, we forced our way, with in-
finite struggles, through a narrow space, between
rocks, and thence getting on our hands and knees,
were, for the full distance of a mile, obliged to crawl,
without ever daring to lift up our heads, the passage
being both low and craggy ; and, as it was likewise
filled with mud, dirt, and a multitude of bits of rock,
our progress was painful indeed : we still, however,
hoped for something better. On we accordingly
proceeded, till a dreadful noise, rumbling along the
horrible crevices of the cave, gave us to understand
we were near a river : to this then we, as fast as we
were able, hurried. But description is inadequate
to any thing like a representation of the scene. A
vast ocean seemed roaring in upon us ; in some
places bursting with inconceivable impetuosity, aud
at others falling through dreadful chasms, burst into
shaggy forms to give vent : through this our journey
was to continue. A cry of light, however, alarmed
us ; the confinement of the air, and the narrowness
of our track, had extinguished all our torches ; the
candles too, all but one small end, were totally ex-
pended. We knew not what to do. In vain the
miners halloo'd for the supply which was to have
eome behind ; no answer was to be heard. Our fate
seemed inevitable ; but the principals of the party
fortunately expressed no fear. In this extremity, a
gallant fellow, who yet was ignorant of the place,
but Irom experience knew the danger we were in,
suddenly disappeared, and, after groping for a con-
siderable time iu the dark and dismal horrors of the
place, at length returned to us with a supply of can-
dles, having discovered his companions, unto whom i

they were given in charge, almost petrified with fear,
and unable to follow us from apprehension. Re-
prieved in this manner from a death which seemed to
wait us, in its most horrid form, we proceeded on-
ward wit'i a fresh recruit of spirits ; and plunging
into the river above our waists, scarce tenable from
the impetuosity of the torrent, cautiously picked
our steps, and, at length, after four hours most un-
speakable fatigue, arrived at about 300 yards be-
yond thu spot where the subterranean passage we
had the day before explored was expected to find
an entrance into this dreadful place. Here we were
obliged to stop. A passage still continued, but so
filled with water, and so full of peril, that the mi-
ners themselves were averse to farther travel. All
together, the depth we had descended was about
110 fathoms, or 980 feet, and the length about three
miles. We had the happiness to return without any
injury."

Dovr, DALE.] Dove Dale, in the neighbourhood 1
of Ashborne, is a romantic and rocky chasm, through
which the river Dove pursues its wiuding ourse r
and gives life and animation to the scenery, by dash-
ing over rude masses which have fallen into its
stream from the adjoining cliti's. " On entering th
Dale," observes a modern writer, " the mind regards
it as a sequestered solitude, where contemplation
might take her seat, and extend her musings through
the wide range of existence, neither interrupted by
jarring sounds, nor distracted by discordant images.
As the road proceeds, however, the scenery becomes
too romantic, and impressive from its singularity, to
permit the attention to engage itself on other objects.
The valley contracts ; aud on each side, rocks of
grey lime-stone, abrupt and vast, rear their grotesque
forms, covered with moss, lichens, yew-trees, and
mountain-ash. A narrow and broken path winds
along the margin of the river, which in some parts
so nearly fills the bosom of the dale, that even tha
foot passenger cannot pursue his cautious way, with-
out the hazard of being precipitated from the slippery
craggs into the stream."

In length, this dale is rather more than two miles ;
but, from the sinuosity of its course, and its project-
ing precipices, which in some places seem to fold
into each other, and preclude every appearance of
further access, the views are morn limited. On the
right, or Derbyshire border, the rocks are more bare
of vegetation than on the left, or Staffordshire side,
where they are partially covered with fine hanging
wood, which, from its various combinations with the
surrounding objects, presents a succession of beau-
tifully picturesque and romantic views. The cha-
racter of the scenery, however, is greatly diversified
by the varying forms of the rocks^ and the winding'
current of the Dove, the motion and appearance of
which are perpetually changing. Whatcly, in bis
" Observations on Modern Gardening," remarks,
that " it is never less than ten, nor so much as
twenty, yards wide, and generally from three to four
feet deep ; and transparent to the bottom, except

when

DERBYSHIRE.

when it is covered with a loam of the purest white,
under water-falls which are perfectly lucid. These
are very numerous, but very different : in some
places they stretch across, or aslant, the stream ; in
others, they arc only partial, and the water either
dashes against the stones, and leaps over them, or,
pouring along a steep, rebounds upon those below ;
sometimes it rushes through the several openings
between them, and at other times it is driven back
"hy the obstruction, and turns into an eddy. In one
particular spot, the valley, almost closing, leaves
hardly a passage for the river, which, pent up, and
struggling for a vent, rages, and roars, and foams,
till it has extricated itself from the confinement. In
other parts, the stream, though never languid, is of-
ten gentle, flows round a little desert island, glides
between aits and bulrushes, disperses itself among
tufts of grass and moss, bubbles about a water-dock,
or plays with the tender threads of aquatic plants
which float upon the surface." Tlr 1 , rugged, dissi-
milar, nnd frequently grotesque and fanciful appear-
ance of the rocks, distinguish the scenery of this
valley from, perhaps, every other in the kingdom.
In some places they shoot up in detached masses, in
the form of spires, or conical pyramids, to the height
of thirty or forty yards, and are ornamented with
festoons and net-work of ivy : in others their scat-
tered and uncovered heads hang over the river in
terrific masses, upheld by fragments apparently
unequal to the weight they sustain. Some are firm
and solid throughout ; others are split and dislocat-
ed, and appear ready to be scattered into atoms by
the first tempest that may sweep the dale. About a
mile from the entrance, in a vast mural mass of de-
tached rock, which extends along, the edge of the
precipice on the right, nearly half way up the side of
the dale, is a magnificent arch, called Reynard's
Hole.

Near this spot, some years ago, a dreadful acci-
dent occurred. A Mr. Langton, Dean of Clogher,
was on a visit at a family's in the neighbourhood :
during his stay a party was formed for an excursion
to Dove Dale. As they proceeded in the valley,
Mr. Langton proposed to ascend a precipice near
Reynard's Hole, apparently near four hundred feet
high ; and prevailed on a young lady of the party,
a Miss La Roche, to accompany him on the same
horse. Riding on the summit near the margin, they
mistook a sheep's path for the road, and in endea-
vouring to turn the horse hastily, they both fell :
Mr. Lnngton was precipitated to the bottom, and so
bruised by the fall that he expired in a few days.
Miss La Roche was entangled by her hair in a
bramble bush, and fortunately received no material
injury. The horse was found upon the summit un-
injured. 1

The shape of Reynard's Hole nearly approaches
to the sharply-pointed Gothic : its height is about
forty feet, and its width eighteen. Through this, in
the hody of the rock, the eye distinguishes the mouth
of a cavern, which, from its situation so immediate! v

above the opening of the arch, excites an idea, that
the latter must have been formed by some tremend-
ous burst of water, discharged through that aper-
ture, from the interior of the mountain. On scram-
bling beneath the arch, however, up the steep path
to the cavern itself, this idea is not strengthened ;
for the extent of the excavation is little more than
forty feet, and its height about fifteen. The beau-
tiful view from the entrance fully repays the fatigue
of ascending. A mass of hanging wood covers the
opposite side of the dale, from which a large craggy
detached rock starting out forms a grand charac-
teristic feature of the scene. This rock is called
Dove Dale Church ; the cavern Reynard's Hall ;
and another opening in the rock Reynard's Kitchen.
The same variety of wild romantic scenes which
distinguish the beginning of the dale, extends to its
northern termination : here two large rocks rise
prominent, one on each side of the river, and form
the portals to this surprising valley. The grand
and picturesque are now seen no more ; the bottom
becomes gradually flat, the rocks sink into small
hills of stone, with a craggy fragment occasionally
appearing after the discontinuation of the chain.
Near this extremity of the dale is another large ca-
vern, called Fox-holes, with some of inferior size.
A path to the right of the Dove leads from a i'arm-
house, called Hanson Grange, to the turnpike road
proceeding to Ashborne.

DRONFIELD.] The neat little market-town of
Dronfield is pleasantly situated in a salubrious vale,
in the hundred of Scarsdale, 6 miles north-north-
west from Chesterfield, and 155 north-north-west
from London. The market day is Thursday. The
inhabitants of Dronfield about 1343 in number are
remarkable for longevity. In the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, Henry Fanshawe, Esq. founded an ex*
ccllent free-school here.

Dronfield Church js a handsome building, 132
feet in length, having a tower at the west end, ter-
minated by a spire. From a joint in the north side
of the chancel, six yards from the ground, springs a
small elm-tree, about five feet in height, a stone
towards the west corner appearing to have given
way to it. Opposite the west end of the church.
was formerly a chantry, now the Dragon public-
house.

DUFFIELD.] Duffield is an exceedingly pleasant
village, situated on each side of the old road to Mat-
lock, in the hundred of Appletreo, four miles and a
quarter north from Derby. There is said to have
been a large forest here ; tithe of all pannage, veni-
son, coney, and rent, arising from which, was given
to the monks of Tutbury, by William de Ferrers, in
the reign of Henry III. that their prayers might be
offered for the soul of his wife Agnes, and lor the
souls of his ancestors..

At the north-Avest end of the village, on a rising
ground, formerly stood a castle, which in the four-
teenth ceutury belonged to the Ferrers, Earls of
Derby. " Robert de Ferrers, the second Earl, in.
6 thti

DERBYSHIRE.

the nineteenth fear of the reign of Henry II. hear-
hig that the territories of the King of France were
invaded by the adherents of young Henry, whom his
father caused to be crowned during his own life,
joined in rebellion against his sovereign, and garri-
soned his castle at Uuffield. However, some time
afterwards, to obtain pardon and i'avour, he surren-
dered his fortress to the King, who commanded it to
be immediately demolished, which was effected in
August, 1325."

EDALE.] The village of Edale is situated in the
hundred of High Peak, five miles and three quarters
north-east by east from Chapel-in-the Frith.

" Amongst the sequestered vallies in this quarter
of the county," observes a modern writer, " is the
pleasant Edale, where, secluded in the bosom of (he
mountains from the bustle of the world, the inhabi-
tants appear to enjoy all the quiet and security which
pervaded the happy valley of Rasselas. The dale
is wide and fertile, and better cultivated than most
others in the regions of the Peak : the bottom is en-
liveu'ed by a little rivulet, which flows near the vil-
lage of Edale, and aids, by its motion, the opera-
tions of a cotton factory, established at a little dis-
tance. Various other dales branch off from this to
an extensive tract, called the Woodlands of Derby-
shire, the upper parts of which display some fine
oak, fir, and larch-trees. The ground of the Wood-
lands mostly belongs to the Duke of Devonshire,
by whose direction the plough has been introduced,
and many acres brought into cultivation."

In Mr. Bray's description of this neighbourhood,
in his Tour through Derbyshire, he mentions that a
large stone, lying on the side of a hill to the right of
this village, was removed some years ago, and that
under it, fifteen or sixteen beads were found, of a
large size and various colours, which he conjectures
to have been Druidical amulets. This gentleman
mentions also a pile of unhewn masses of stone call-
ed a Druid's Altar, standing in a rough pasture, on
the summit of a hill, which was destroyed for the
ake of the stone. - " The altar was circular, about
sixty feet diameter, composed of rough stones of va-
rious sizes, rudely piled together, without mortar or
cement, in the form of a haycock, about eighteen

* Jedediah Biwton was born about the year 1704; but, al-
though the son of a school master, he could neither read nor
write Notwithstanding this lie attained a power of calculation
almost incredible. Kven mixed company, conversation, and
confused noises could not distract his mind when intent on a
problem. A person once proposed to him this question: In a
body the three sides ot which are 23,145,789 yards, 5,642,732
yards, and 54,965 yards, how many cubic eighths of an inch ?
In about five hours Jedediah accurately solved this intricate
problem, though in the midst of business, and surrounded by
more than a hundred labourers. He would measure a piece
of land by walking over it, as exactly as another could do wilh
a chain. In 1754 lie walked to Lomlon to see the Royal Fa-
mily, but returned disappointed. Whilst in town he was in-
troduced to the Hoyal Society,' and answered a number of dit-
ftcu It arithmetical questions so satisfactorily, that his dismissal
was accompanied with a handsome gratuity. He was also
taken to Drury-Lane, wliuo, instead of minding the play or

feet perpendicular height. .The top v.v.s hollow, in
the form of a bason, about lour feet deep, and six
feet in diameter : the stone on the inside of tjiis ba-
son was black, and much burned, as if large lires
had been often made in it." Mr. Pilkington, com-
menting on this passage, observes, that on Stauwich
Top there are at least thfee masses of stoue of this
kind, and that they are much too numerous in this
part of the count) to be supposed Druidical
altars.

EGGINTON.] This i a small but pleasant village
near the banks of the Dove, in the hundred of Slor-
leston and Litehurch, eight miles south-west from
Derbyi Here is the seat of the Every family, which
came from Somersetshire. The greater part of the
old mansion having been destroyed by fire in the
year 1736, the present house was erected on its
site.

ELMTON.] This little village, situated in the
hundred of Scarsdale, nine miles east by north from
Chesterfield, is chiefly remarkable for having been
the birth-place of Jedediah Buxton, a poor day-
labourer, gifted, in an extraordinary manner, with
the power of making arithmetical calculations.*

ELDEN HOLE.] This famous perpendicular
chasm, which is generally regarded as the third
wonder of the Peak,t is situated on the south side
of a hill, about three miles west from Castleton. It
is thus ludicrously described by Cotton :

Betwixt a verdant mountain's falling flanks,

And within bounds of easy swelling banks,

That hem the wonder in on every side,

A formidable fissure gapes so wide ;

Steep, black, and full of horror, that who dare

Look down into the chasm, and keep his hair

From lifting off his hat, cither has none,

Or for more modish curls cashires his own.

The yawning mouth is thirty paces long,

Scarce half so wide, within lin'd thro' with strong

Continuous walls of solid perpend stone ;

A gulph, wide, steep, black, and dreadful one;

Which few that come to see it dare come near ;

And the more daring 6till approach with fear.

Respecting this chasm the wildest reports, th
most exaggerated descriptions, have been propagat-
ed. It has been represented as perfectly unfathom-

gazing with wonder, lie employed himself in counting the words
uttered by Mr. Garrick. flis portrait was taken by Miss
Hartley in 1764, at which period, according to his own calcu-
lation, "he had existed 1,792,230,823 seconds. lie lived to be
above 70, and had several children.

f The seven wonders of the Peak are thus comprised, by
Hobbes, in one line:

" ;Edes, mons, barathrum, binus fons, antraque bina."

(Translation.)
House, mountain, pit, two fountains, and two caves.

These wonders are generally enumerated in the following
order: Chatwbrth House; Mam Tor; Elden Hole; Bux-
ton Wells ; Tideswell ; Pool's Hole ; and the Devil's Cave.

DERBYSHIRE.

able, and as teeming, at a certain depth, with such
impure air that no animal could respire it without
certain destruction. In proof of the latter part of
this opinion, it is recorded, that the Earl ot Leices-
ter, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, hired a black
man to go down, in a basket of stones, who having
descended 300 ells, and being pulled up was both
speechless and senseless, and died within eight days
of a phmisy. Mr. Cotton, also, from whom we
liave already quoted, furnishes the following account
of an experiment which he made himself :

How deep tlvs gulpli does travel tinder ground,
Though there has been attempts was never found ;
But I myself with the Peak surrounded,
Eight hundred four sore and lour yards have sounded ;
And though ol th^e four score rehirn'd bark wet,
The plummet drew, and found no bottom yet.

The depth here mentioned is four yards above
half a mile. A gentleman whose account was quot-
ed in Calcott's Treatise on the Deluge, from the
second number of the Philosophical Transactions,
has asserted, t-'.tt he let down a line 933 yards,
without meeting with a bottom ; and the credulity
of a modern traveller has been so grossly imposed
OP, that he has stated the known profundity of this
abyss at upwards of 770 yards ; yet even to that
depth, he observes, the line was let down without
finding a bottom.

Before we proceed to offer such evidence as tends
to invalidate the assertion, that Elden Hole is unfa-
thomable, it may be proper to remark that, many
years ago, the owner of the pasture in which this
chasm is situated, having lost several cattle, agreed
with two men to fill it up. These men spent somo
days in throwing down many loads of stones ; but
seeing no effect from their labour, they ventured
down the fissure themselves, and found at the bottom
a vast cavern ; upon which, despairing to procure a
quantity of stones sufficient to fill it up, they desisted
from their work. Since this period, the chasm has
been surrounded by a high wall, having an entrance
door at the end, the key of which is kept at an ad-
jacent village, and is not to be obtaiuedwitbout some
pecuniary reeompence. The less, therefore, the
depth of this abyss is known, the more productive,
of course, it becomes ; as the number who desire to
look down its dark recesses is by that means ren-
dered greater.

A Mr. Lloyd, having received the account of the
fruitless attempt to fill up the cavern with stones
and rubbish, from one of the men who had been em-
ployed on the occasion, and being assured there
were no damps at the bottom, formed the determi-
nation of going down himself. The particulars of
his descent (of which the following is an abstract)
ar recorded in the sixty-first volume of the Philo--
sop ilual Transactions. He was let down by two
ropes about forty fathoms long ; for the first twenty
yards, though he descended obliquely, he could as-
sist himself with his hands and his feet ; but below

this, the rock projecting in large irregular
he found it very difficult to pass ; and on descend-
ing ten yards more he perceived that the rope by
which he was suspended was at least six yards from
the perpendicular ; from hence, the breadth ot the
chink was about three yards, and the length about
six ; the sides were very irregular, and the craggs
were covered with moss, being besides wet and
dirty ; within fourteen yards of the bottom, the rock
opened on the east side, and he swung till he reach-
ed the floor of the cavern, which was at the depth of
sixty-two yards from the mouth ; the light, however,
which came from above, was sufficient to read any
print. Here he found the cavern to consist of two
parts : that in which he alighted was like an oven ;
the other where he first began to swing, was a vast
dome, shaped like the inside of a glass-nouse, and a
small arched passage formed a communication be-
tween them ; in this passage, the stones which had
teen thrown in at the top formed a slope, extending
from the wall at the west side of the first dome al-
most to the bottom of the second cave or oven, so
that the farther end of the cave was lower by twenty-
five yards than where he alighted. The diameter of
this cavern he judged to be about fifty yards ; the
to]) he could not trace with his eye, but had reason
to believe that it extended to a prodigious height ;
for, when he was nearly at the top of one of the en-
crusted rocks, which was an elevation of at least
twenty yards, he could then see no enclosure of the
dome, though of course he saw much farther than
when he stood at the bottom. After climbing up a
few loose stones, on the south side of the second ca-
vern, he descended again, through a small aperture*
into a little cave about four yards long, and two
yards high, which was lined throughout with a kind
of sparkling stalactites of a very fine deep yellow,
with some small stalactical drops hanging from the
roof. He found a noble column, of about ninety
feet in height, of the same kind of encrustation, fac-
ing the first entrance ; as he proceeded to the north,
he came to a large stone, that was covered with the
same substance, and under it he found a note two
yards deep, that was uniformly lined with it. From
the edge of this hole sprung a rocky ascent, sloping
like a buttress against the side of the cavern, and
consisting of vast solid rouml masses, of the same
substance and colour ; he climbed ip this ascent to
the height of about sixty ieet, and got some fine
pieces ol the stalactites, which hung from the craggy
sides of the cavern which joined the projection he
had ascended. Having get down, which was not
effected without considerable difficulty and danger,
he proceeded in the same direction, and soon came
to another pile of cncimstatioiis of a different kind
and colour j those being much rougher, and not
tinged with yvllow, but brown. At the top of this
he found a small cavern, opening into the side of the
vault, which he entered, and where he saw vast
drops of the stalactites, hanging l.ke icicles from
every part of the roof, some of which were four or

I ; * -- XI I V

DERBYSHIRE.

fire feet long, and as thick as a man's body. The
greater part of the walls of the large cavern, or
vault, was lined with encrustations of three kinds :
the first was the deep yellow stalactites ; the second
was a thin coating, resembling a light-coloured var-
nish (this covered the lime-stone, and reflected the
light of the caudles with great splendour ;) the third
sort was a rough efflorescent, every shoot of which
resembled a kind of rose flower. He now returned
through the arch which separates the two vaults, re-
ascending the slope of loose stones, which greatly
lessened the magnificence of the entrance into the
inner cavern. When he had again fastened the rope
to his body, he gave the signal to be drawn up,
which he found much more dangerous and difficult
than being let down ; on account of his weight
drawing the rope between the fragments of the rocks,
to which he adhered, and his body jarring against
the sides, notwithstanding the defence he made with
his hands ; the rope also loosened the stones over
his head, the fall of which he dreaded every moment,
and if any of them had fallen he must inevitably
have perished. Being obliged to ascend with his
face towards the wall, he could not make any par-
ticular observations on the rocks that were behind
or on each side of him ; he saw, however, under
the projection of the rock where the passage first
became narrow, the entrance of a cavern which
seemed to penetrate a great way, but he could not
get int it."

The most recent attempt to explore the depth of
this chasm, appears to have been that of the Editors
of the Beauties of England and Wales, about the
year 1802, who have furnished us with the following
particulars :

" The mouth of the chasm opens longitudinally,
in a direction from south to north. Its shape is
nearly that of an irregular ellipsis, about thirty yards
in length, and nine broad in the widest part. The
northern end is fringed with small trees ; and moss
and underwood grow out of the crevices on each
side to the depth of forty or fifty feet. As the fis-
sures recede from the surface, it gradually con-
tracts ; and, at the depth of twenty, or twenty-five
yards, hades considerably to the west, so that the
eye can no longer trace its course. The bushes,
and projecting masses of stone, are, excepting in
one point on the west side, extremely unfavourable
to plumbing it with accuracy. From this point, a
weight was carefully let down, and, in the opinion
of several persons by whom the line was repeatedly
felt, was adjudged to have reached the bottom. The
line had been previously measured, and the depth to
which the weight descended was found to be no
more than sixty-seven yards and one foot ! That

this is the real depth of the chasm, or as near as it
can be ascertained, the assertions of three miners,
questioned separately, who have been let down into
it, at different periods within the last thirty-five or
thirty-six years, abundantly corroborates.

" Two of them imagined its depth to be about
sixty-eight, or seventy yards ; but as many years
had elapsed since the time of their subterraneous ex-
pedition, they would not speak to a fathom or two.
The third, whose descent into the cavern had been
more recent, affirmed,* that the length of the rope
which enabled him to reach the bottom, was thirty-
three fathoms, and a trifle more. So nearly do these
different relations correspond, that we can hardly
suppose the depth of Elden Hole will again be made
a question. It should be remarked, that the rise of
the hill in the vicinity of the chasm, is about on loot
in six ; and, consequently, that the variation of a few
yards in divers admeasurements, may at once be re-
conciled, by supposing the stations to have becu
different,"

To this statement, it is proper to add, that a gen-
tleman, who lived on the spot, told Mr. Lloyd, after
his return from this subterranean expedition, that
there was formerly, in the floor of the great cavern,
somewhere near the large heap of stones, the mouth
ot a second shaft, which had been covered by the
miners, and was said to have gone down a vast
depth, and to have had water at the bottom. This
it seems probable, might be the direction which the
plummet took, which was let down by Mr. Cotton.
It is believed by some, that this water is a continua-
tion of the subterraneous stream in the great cavern
at Castleton, as a large quantity of grit-stone is ob-
served to grow near Elden Hole, and none near
Castleton ; and yet, on high floods, the river at the
latter place washes great quantities of that sort of
grit-stone, in fragments out of the mouth of the ca-
vern there. There is also a commonly-received tra-
dition at this place, that a goose, which was lost
down Elden Hole^ was afterwards seen at the mouth
ef the cavern, at Castleton.

ELVASTON.] Elvaston, formerly Aylewaston, is
situated in the hundred of Morleston and Litchurch,
four miles south-east by east from Derby. It is the
seat of the Stanhopes, Earls of Harrington, and has.
long been the residence of that family. The grounds,
which are by no means remarkable for their beauty,
have been laid out in the ancient manner ; but some
of the apartments of the mansion have been fitted up
in conformity with modem taste. Here are several,
family portraits, and some other paintings of value.
Walter Blunt, Baron of Mountjoy, whose family
possessed this estate in the time of Edward IV. was
a native of Elvaston. From the Blunts, the manor

* " Not more, indeed, than five years ago. The occasion
of his undertaking it, was a supposition tliat a gentleman had
been murdered, and thrown down the fissure in the niglit, as
the doer of the surrounding wall had been removed, and a

strange horse, saddled and bridled, hot without a rider, had beert
found loose on the Peak Forest. Nothing was discovered to,
justify the report of the murder,"

passed

DERBYSHIRE.

passed to the Poles, of Hadburne ; and, about the
middle of the 16th century, it came into the posses-
sion of the Stanhopes.*

ETWALL.] Etwall is situated in the hundred of
Appletree, six miles west-south-west from Derby.
li has a free-school, and an hospital, which, subse-
quently to the Dissolution, were founded and en-
dowed by t*\r John Port.

EYAM.] The village of Eyam, situated in the
hundred of High Peak, a mile and a half north from
Stoney Middletou, has been chiefly noted, of late
years, as the birth-place of Miss Seward, a lady
much distinguished .by her poetical productions. f
Dr. Mead, in his tract upon the Great Plague of
London, mentions this village, on account of the re-
markable circumstance of that dreadful disease hav-
ing been communicated by a box of materials sent

* William Stanhope, the lirst Earl of Harrington, was the
possessor of eminent talents ; and early in life, was sent as envoy
extraordinary to the court of Spain. On the accession ot
George the First, he was made colonel of a regiment of dragoons;
and his bravery appeared as conspicuous as his diplomatic ta-
lents. In 1719, lie commanded a detachment sent to assist the
attack made by the English squadron on the enemy's ships in
Port St. Anthony. To his conduct the success of the expedi-
tion was in a great measure owing; for the destruction of three
men of war,' and a considerable quantity of naval stores, was
effected chiefly by his skill and courage. He was ambassador
and plenipotentiary to the congress at Soissons under George
the Second ; and was made a British peer in 1729. "In 1742
he was created Viscount Petersham, and.Earl of Harrington.
In 1746 he was made Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. He died in
1756. The life of William, the second Earl, presents nothing
remarkable. That of Charles, the present Earl, abounds with
various and splendid actions, with which some future biographer
will eagerly till a number of his pages.

\ Anna Seward, distinguished in the literary world as a poet
and biographer, and for her epistolary talents, was the daughter
of the Rev. Thomas Seward, Rector of Eyam, prebendary of
Salisbury, and canon residentiary of I.itchtield. Mr. Seward
was a man of considerable learning and taste; in 1750 he pub-
lished an edition of the Plays of Beaumont and Fletcher; he
vas also the author of an ingenious tract on the conformity be-
tween pagani.-m and popery; and in the second volume of
Dodsley's Collection he published a few elegant little poems.
Mr. Seward married in 1745, and settled at Eyam, at which
place, in the second year of his marriage, Miss Seward was
born. She had several sisters and one brother, but all died in
their infancy except the second daughter, who lived till the age
of nineteen. In her seventh year Miss Seward's family removed
to Litchfield, and in her thirteenth to Bishop's Pala'ce, which
continued lobe her residence during life. Miss Seward was
distinguished for precocity of talents, and her father, imagin-
ing he s:uv the dawning of a poetic genius, amused himself with
fostering it. At the age of three, before she could read, he had
taught her to lisp the Allegro and Penseroso of Milion, and in
her ninth year she was enabled to speak by rote, with varied
melody and correct accent, the first three books of the Paradise
Lost. The mother of Miss Seward died in the year 1780 : she
was a woman of strong sense, but being without any tate for
literary pursuits herself, she gave no encouragement to her
daughter'; and even her father, as she advanced to womanhood,
withdrew that animating welcome which he had given to the
earlier attempts of her muse. Miss Si-ward's productions were
confined to the perusal of her more intimate friends, till she be-
came acquainted with Lady Miller, of Bath East on, who en-
tn-ated her to write for the poetic institution of that villa, and to
become a candidate for its myrtle wreath: this she repeatedly
obtained. The prize poems were published in the Bath Easton

to a taylor who resided here. The servant, on open-
ing the box, observed the goods were damp, and
being desired to dry them by the fire, was seized
with the plague and expired ; the whole family were
taken in the same, manner and all but one person
perished. The distemper spread through the parish
and 259 persons became its victims. The Reverend
William Mompesson, by his prudent exertions, pre-
vented the contagion from extending to .the neigh-
bouring villages ; by his advice the sick were re-
moved into huts, built upon the common, and pro-
visions were furnished them by the Earl of Devon-
shire.

The horrible earthquake which destroyed Lisbon,
in 1755, was clearly felt by the men working in the
mines at Eyam Edge ; fragments fell from the .fis-
sures of the rock, and violent explosions, as of a can-

volume, and from them into other public prints ; her name was
added, and Miss Seward thus became known. In the begin-
ning of the year 1780, appeared her Elegy on the Death of
Captain Cook. This was followed by another Elegy on her
gallant and amiable friend Major Andre. In 1782 she pub-
lished her poem to the memory of Lady Millar ; in 1784, her
poetical novel " Louisa;" in 1787, her " Epic Ode on the
return of General Elliott from Gibraltar;" in 1790, " Llan-
gollen Vale" and other poems; and in 1806, her " Life of
Darwin." She was also a contributor to the Gentleman's Ma-
gazine, and other periodical publications. The death of Miss
Seward took place on Lady t)ay, 1809: since that event a col-
lection of her poems has been published in three volumes, by-
Walter Sco't ; and her literary correspondence by Mr. Consta-
ble. In private life Miss Seward was highly respected, and
her acquaintance was very numerous. As an author, she was
free from that narrow envy which detracts from contemporary
merit ; and as a friend and daughter, kind even to enthusiasm.
The instance recorded in her Memoirs of Dr. Darwin, of her
offer to suffer blood to be drawn from her own veins for the
purpose of transfusion into those of Lady Northesk, on whom
Dr. Darwin entertained thoughts of trying the extraordinary
experiment, satisfactorily demonstrates the strength of her friend-
ship. Her Life of Dr. Darwin cannot but be accurate from her
intimacy with that gentleman, but the style of that, as well as of
her general prose composition, is disfigured by the use of fre-
quent inversions, compounded epithets, and surprising devia-
tions from grammatical accuracy. As a poet, Miss Seward pos-
sessed no small share of genius, a fertile imagination, a correct
taste, and great power of language. " Miss Seward," says the
editor of her poetical works, " was in practice trained and at-
tached to that school of picturesque and florid description, of
lefty and bold personification, of a diction which inversion and
the use of compound epithets rendered as remote as possible
from the tone of ordinary language, which was introduced,
or at least rendered fashionable by Dr. Darwin; but which was
too remote from common life and natural expression, to retain
its popularity. Yet her tasle, though, perhaps, over dazzled
by the splendour which she adopted in her own compositions,
readily admitted the claims of Pope, Collins, Gray, Mason, and
ol all those bards who have condescended to add the graces of
style and expression to poetical thought and imagery. But she
particularly demanded beauty, elegance, or splendour of lan-
guage ; and was unwilling to allow that sublimity or truth of
conception could atone for poverty, rudeness,' or even simpl -
city of expression. To Spencer, and the poets of his school,
she lent a very unwilling ear; and what will, perhaps, best ex-
plain my meaning, she greatly preferred the (lowing numbers
and expanded descriptions of Pope's Iliad to Cowper's trans-
lation, which approaches nearer to the simple dignity of
Bonier."

uon,

DERBYSHIRE.

non, were distinctly heard. In a drift, 120 yards in
depth, and about 50 yards in length, several shocks
"Were 1'clt and n loud rumbling noise was heard. The
second shock was so violent as to cause the rocks
to grind each other. Apparently about four or five
minutes elapsed between each shock.

FOREMARK.] The little village of Foremark,
pleasantly situated on the Trent, in the hundred of
Repton and Gresley, seven miles south-south-west
from Derby, is distinguished by the seat of Sir
Francis Burdett, Bart, one of the present represen-
tatives in Parliament of the City of Westminster.*
The manor, and the estates connected with it, were
formerly the possession of the Frauneys, who con-
veyed them to the Burdetts, by the marriage of au
heiress with Sir R. Burdett, of Bramcote, in War-
wickshire, about the year 1607.

The family mansion was built, about half a cen-
tury ago, by the late Sir Robert Burdett, upon the
ite of a very ancient house ; but neither so elegant,
nor so commodious, as the present. This is a
handsome stone building, with a portico projecting
from the north front, which is otherwise uniform
with the south, aud, like that, consists of a square
centre, flanked with bows, terminating in dome roofs,
which have a peculiar, but somewhat heavy, appear-
ance. Each front has a handsome double flight of
steps. The offices are connected with the east end
of the mansion by a covered walk, leading through
an enclosed court. A spacious and handsome hall
(forty-seven feet long, by thirty broad) extends
through the centre of the edifice, from north to south,
having an entrance at each end, opening upon the
respective flights of steps. The spaces on each side
of the hall are occupied by various convenient apart-
ments, and a staircase of oak, very wide and hand-
some, leading to the bed-chnmbers and dressing-
rooms ; over which is an attic story. All the floors
and doors are of the best oak, admirably fitted. The
rooms contain some good family portraits ; but none
of partieular celebrity. On a rising ground, near
the west end of the house, which is ornamented with
a small lawn, shaded by a grove of young oaks,
stands the village church, a plain, humble fabric,
with a low tower, yet forming a pleasing object, iu
connection with the contiguous scenery, from seve-
ral points of view. The old parish church, or cha-
pel, which was an appendage to the priory at Rep-
ton, stood in the hamlet of Ingleby, on the banks of
the Trent, about a mile to the east. When that fell
into decay, the present edifice was erected by the
Lord of the Manor, and consecrated by Bishop Has-
kett, in the year 1662. A pleasant secluded walk,
between two rows of aged oaks, runs from the end

* Sir Francis Burdett is descended from a very ancient
family, one of whom, named Hugh Burdett, came into England
with ihe Conqueror. His descendant, William Burdett, Xord
of Louseby, in Leicestershire, who lived in the time of Henry
the Second, founded the Priory of Aucote, in Warwickshire,
to expiate the murder of hin wife, whom he had slain oil

voi. it. Ko. 40.

of the house, and is skirted on the north side by a
close thicket of underwood, interspersed with wil-
lows, ash, and oak-trees, through the intervals of
which the prospect of an irregularly rising lawn is
admitted, pleasingly varied by scattered oaks, thorn?,
and beeches, and bounded by plantations. The
most striking ornament of (he grounds, however, is
a grove of majestic oaks, extending from the vicinity
of the house to a piece of water at some distance,
opposite the north front. Beyond the grove, the
land declines northward to the rich meadows water*-
ed by the Trent. Opposite the house, on the south,,
the ground gently swells into a hill, ascending which,
and proceeding in a southerly direction, the road
leads to Foremark Park, where the country assumes
a down- like appearance, consisting of green swell-
ing eminences, which agreeably contrast with the
flat ir.eadows enlivened with the meandering Trent
on tl.e north. These rising grounds, formerly dis-
posed in a spacious park, are now enclosed. Bur-
ton, in' his " Anatomy of Melancholy," justly no-
tices Foremark as particularly pleasant, wholesome,
and eligible ; for, besides the agreeable disposition
of the scenery, the soil is dry and fertile, lying 1 near
a stratum of gravel. It is also very iarourable to
the production of game, particularly pheasants ;
though, of late, from the depredations of poachers,
their numbers have not been abundant.

Somewhat more than a quarter of a mile from
Foremark, stands a rocky bank, terminating abrupt-
ly beyond the meadows on the border of tin 1 Trent.
Its summit is merely a continuation of the high
grounds of Foremark ; but its rude break, strange-
ness of form, and attendant objects, when viewed
from the grounds at its foot, form a singular scene.
The centre, which is most naked, and from which the
rock projects, resembles a Gothic ruin ; the open-
ings for the light, and the rudely fashioned door-
way, leading into cells dug in the rock, give probabi-
lity to the tradition which states it to have been the re-
sidence of an Anchorite. The bank is formed of rough
grit-stone, with a mass of sand and pebble collected
by the river, which, though now flowing at a short
distance, formerly ran at the base of the rock. Oak.
and fir-trees, with abrupt prominences mantled over
with bush-wood and ivy, give a highly picturesque
appearance to the summit of the rock. Near this
spot human bones have been dug up ; and beneath
the rock the resemblance of a sepulchral figure may
be discerned.

FOSTON.] The village of Foston, situated in the
parish of Scropton-upon-Dove, in the hundred of
Appletree, eleven miles and a half west by south
from Derby, is entitled to notice chiefly on account

returning from the Holy Land. Nicholas Burdett, Knight,
served in the wars ot Henry the Fifth and Sixth, and was slain
at Pontoise. Thomas, his heir, a person of considerable ability,
having incurred the displeasure of Edward the Fourth, by hit
attachment to the Duke of Clarence, and utterance of some
rash words, was beheaded as a trailer.

DERBYSHIRE.

of the following curious statement, given by Cough*
in his Additions to Caraden. " At Foston," says
he, " was horn, 1540, Arthur Agard, 45 years de-
puty chamberlain of the Exchequer, who died in
165 J. Mr. Camden calls him Antiquarius insignis.
Walter Achard, or Agard, claimed to hold by inhe-
ritance the office of Escheator, and coroner of the
whole honour of Tuthury, in the county of Stafford,
and of the baillhvick of Leyke, for which he pro-
duced no other evidence than a white hunting-horn,
adorned with silver gilt in the middle, and at each
end with a belt of black silk, set with silver gilt
buckles, and the arms of Edmund, second son of
Henry the Third. This horn is now in the posses-
sion of Mr. Foxlowe, of Staveley, in this county,
who enjoys the posts of Feodary, or Bailiff in Fee,
Escheator, Coroner, and Clerk of the Market of
Tutbury Honor, by this Tenure, and by virtue of his
being in possession of this horn, which he purchased
of Christopher Stanhope, of Elvaston, Esq. in whose
family it came by a marriage with the heiress of
Agard. The arms, as represented by Mr. Pegge,
are really those of the house of Lancaster, impaling
Ferrars of Tamworth, who probably held those of-
fices of Agard ; for Nicholas Agard of Tutbury,
who was living in 1560, married Elizabeth, daugh-
ter and co-heir of Roger Ferrars, eleventh son of
Sir Thomas Ferrars, of Tamworth. Foston is now
the seat of Mr. Bate."

GLOSSOP.] Glossop is an extensive parisli in the
hundred of High Peak, ten miles north by west from
Chapel-in-the-Frith. The village is seated on an
eminence, in one of the deepest valleys in the Peak.
The inhabitants are employed chiefly in spinning
and wearing cotton, of which there are several fac-
tories in the neighbourhood. The church, vvhioh is
an ancient building, contains a neat marble tablet,
with an inscription to the memory of Joseph Hague,
Esq. of Park Hall, near Hayfield, who acquired
considerable property by persevering industry ; and
bequeathed the annual interest of 10QO/. for ever,
towards clothing twenty-four poor men and women,
out of the eight townships of Glossop-Daie (Glossop,
Charlesworth, Chunnd, Dinting, Hadfield, Pad-
field, Simondley, and Whitfiplcl) : above the tablet,
is a fine marble bust of Mr. Hague, by Bacon.

GODBF.HERE'S FOUNDER.] Godber's, or Godbe-
here's Founder, is a mine, near the road leading
from Cromfbrd to Wirksworth, in which, as we
learn, from a late writer, the following remarkable
event occurred, at the commencement of the year
1797.

" Two miners, named Job Boden and Anthony
Pearson, went into the mine on the morning of the
13th of January, and while they were at work,
Pearson at the depth of forty-four yards, and Boden
at the depth of twenty, the earth above them, toge-
ther with a quantity of water, suddenly rushed in
and filled the mine to the depth of- about forty-four
yards. The ether miners immediately began to

draw out the rubbish in search of their lost compa-
nions, and on the third day after, Pearson was dis-
covered dead, in an upright posture. The miners
would now have discontinued their exertions, us
here seemed little probability of their labours being
of any avail ; but. being encouraged to proceed,
[chiefly by the influence and persuasions of Charles
llurt, Esq. of Wirksworth,) they at length disco-
vered Boden, about three o'clock in the morning of
the twentieth ; and though he had not received any
kind of nourishment the eight days of his confine-
ment, he was still living, but greatly emaciated. On
being taken out, and treated with proper care, he so
far recovered, as to be able to return to his work in
the space, of fourteen weeks, and is now (1802) alive
and well, having several children, one of who_m
was born within a tvvelremonth after tha acci-
dent.

" To render the particulars of this extraordinary
escape more intelligible, it should be observed, that
the entrance of the mine is a perpendicular shaft,
forty-four yards deep, from the bottom of which ex-
tends a gait, or drift, (a passage in an horizontal
direction,) eight yards in length, at the end of which
descends a second shaft, (or, as the miners term it,
a turn,) to the depth of sixteen yards. At the bot-
tom of this is another gait, about twelve yards iu
length, from the extremity of which another shaft
extends to the depth of nearly twenty-four yards.
At the top of every shaft a windlass was plac-
ed, for the purpose of drawing up whatever
might be extracted from the mine ; and Pearson'*
employment was to draw up to the top of the second,
shaft, the ore, &c. that was obtained by Boden at
the bottom.

" At the distance of seventy yards from the en-
trance to the mine was a pool of water, which, though
generally containing but a small quantity, had, at
the time of the accident, been much increased
through wet weather. The ground between the
mine and the pool, had been undermined in search-
ing for lead ore ; and it is supposed that the addi-
tional weight of water over the vacuity, had forced
down the earth, which filled the mine to the depth of
ten yards in the second shaft. As the earth that
rushed in descended below Pearson's s-tation at th
mouth of this shaft, he w;\s consequently jammed in.
there, and was discovered dead, as already mention-
ed. The remarkable circumstance, that the rubbish,
did not sink into the mine so low as to reach Boden,
but stopped in its descent a few yards above him,
may in some measure be accounted for, by observ-
ing, that the part of the mine where its fall ended,
was somewhat straitened by the projection of a large
stone, an obstacle which Boden had often ineffectual-
ally attempted to remove.

" It appears, from a conversation lately held with
the man thus strangely preserved from death, that,
after contemplating his horrid situation awhile, dur-
ing the first hours of his imprisonment, he Jay down

and

DERBYSHIRE.

and slept. On awaking, the idea of perishing for
\%a.nt of food rushed upon his mind, 'and he recollect -
eci that he had four pounds of caudles with him in
the mine : with these, when pressed by hunger, he
endeavoured to appease his appetite ; but after two
or three vain attempts to swallow such loathsome
food, he desisted ; and the candles were found after
his release : his thirst, which he had no means of
alleviating', was excessive. Feeling extremely cold,
he tried to remove this inconvenience by exercising
himself in turning the windlass at the further end
of the drift ; but having the misfortune to let the
handle fall into the shaft below, he was deprived of
this resource.

" After the space of three or four days, as he
imagines, being almost in a state of distraction, he
ascended, by means of a rope that hung down, to
that part of the mine where the rubbish had stopped
in its descent, and, by labouring hard, caused a large
quantity of it to fall to the bottom of the shaft. He
was employed in this manner, when, at length, he
beard the miners at work above him, and, by the ex-
pedient of knocking with a stone, contrived to ap-
prise them that he was still alive. Though it is
evident, from this circumstance, that he retained his
senses, he can hardly be persuaded that he was not
deprived of them, and fancies that he was prompted
to make the signals by some friendly voice, receiving
from it an assurance, that if he did so, he should be
rescued from his dreadful prison.

" The signals which he made were heard by the
miners about eight hours before they reached him ;
and he describes himself as so much terrified by their
noise, and by apprehensions that persons were com-
ing to murder him, that he should certainly have
destroyed himself, if he had not been closely confined
by the earth which he had drawn down, and which
so filled the lower part of the shaft, that he was al-
most prevented from moving. In the midst of the
panic that agitated him, he swallowed a considerable
quantity of earth, which was afterwards expelled by
proper remedies. He complained most that his legs
were benumbed ami dead ; but their natural heat
being restored by friction, no bad consequence en-
sued. When the accident happened, he was forty-
nine years of age, and then weighed upwards of
twelve stone ; but imagines that he was reduced to
half that weight by his confinement in the mine ; yet,
as he was not weighed, this cannot be affirmed with
certainty."

GRESLEY.] Gresley, or Church Gresley, so called
t.j distinguish it from Castle Gresley, a hamlet of
the same parish, is situated in the hundred of Rep-
ton and Gresley, fourteen miles south-west by south

' The pedigree of the Gresleys is derived from Mahahulcius,
whose brother was an ancestor of William the Conqueror.
From him was descended Roger de Toeni, standard bearer of
Normandy; whose two sons, Robert and Nigel, accompanied
the Conqueror into England ; and it appears from the General
Survey made in the year 1079, that the former thc-n possessed
cearly ISO. lordships, of which Stafford, tlie place of his re^i-

from Derby. " The situation of Gresley," observes
a writer in the Topographer, " is upon a woody
ridge, that affords pleasant views. The land itself
is not of the richest quality, but of a cold and clay-
like nature, having that extensive tract of unculti-
vated land, named Ashby Woulds, close behind it,
which, together with the surrounding country,
abounds with coal. An enclosure of the Wonlds,
which has long been talked of, would be a beneficial
and comfortable event to the neighbourhood. The
land descends gradually from Gresley near three
miles to Drakelow, which, though fiat and confined
in prospect, is well recompensed by the fertile mea-
dows, through which the river Trent takes its wind-
ing course."

In the reign of Henry the First, a priory of the
order of St. Austin, was founded here by William,
son of Nigel de Gresley, and dedicated to St. Mary
and St. George. At the Dissolution, its revenues '
were estimated at 81 /. Os. A small part of its ruins
was visible not many years ago.

Castle Gresley, a hamlet of this parish, mentioned
above, derived its name from a fortress erected here
by the Lords of Gresley,* but now completely demo-
lished, the irregularity of the ground alone marking 1
out the spot which it occupied.

Sir Nigel Bovvyer Gresley, Bart, the present head
of this family, resides at Drakelow, a low, but plea-
sant situation, among the luxuriant meadows bor-
dering the Trent opposite Staffordshire. " The
house, which stands in the midst of a small park of
deer," observes the writer in the Topographer, from
whom we have before quoted, " is a large irregular
pile of brick building whitened over, which affords a
respectable appearance to travellers on the opposite
side of the river. The objects it has to delight in,
besides those before mentioned, are the neat town of
Burton, and its adjacent, hills to the right,' while ia
front are Sinai Park (so called by the Abbots of Bur-
ton) and the other bold features on the edge of Need-
wood Forest."

Gresley Church, which is very ancient, and
greatly decayed, formerly abounded in memorials of
the Gresley family, most of which have been swept"
away by the dilapidating hand of time. Amongst
those which yet remain is one to the memory of Sir
Thomas Gresley, who was sheriff of thia county in-
the year 1602 : he died in IbOO ; and is represented
on the tomb, kneeling, in the dress of the times.
Another monument records the memory f the Al-
leynes (several of whom possessed a part of the ma-
nor, and were buried in this church) by a long in-
scription, containing a genealogical account of the
family from the time of Henry the Eighth, to the

dence, was one. In the Domesday Book, Drakelow is record-
ed as belonging to Nigel de Stafford. When the family assumed
the name of Gresley is uncertain, yet it must have been prior
to the year 1200, for William de Gresley then held the manor
of Drakelow in capite, by the service ot finding a bow, without
a string, a quiver, and thirteen arrows, twelve ilcdged, 01
leathered, and one unit-inhere I.

O ' K-> ' *n

DERBYSHIRE.

beginning' of the last century. By this it appears
that the Alleyues of Gresley were descended from
Sir John AUeyne, Knight, who was twice Lord
Mayor of London, &c. in the reign of the ahove
Monarch.

HADUON.] Haddon, or Upper Haddon, in the
hundred of High Peak, two miles south-east from
Bakewell, of which parish it is a township, is distin-
guished as the seat, and ancient residence of the
Ducal family of Rutland. Soon after the Conquest
the manor was in possession of the Avenells, whose
co-heirs married to Vernon and Basset, in the time
of Richard 1. The Bassets remained possessors of
half the estates in the reign of Edward III. The
heiress of Vernon was united to Franceys, who took
the name of Vernon. In the reign of Henry VI. the
whole estate was possessed by Sir Richard Vernon,
who was Speaker of the Parliament held at Leices-
ter in 1425 ; he was afterwards Governor of Calais,
to which oilice his son, who was the last Constable
of England, succeeded. Sir Henry Vernon, his son,
was Governor of Prince Arthur, heir apparent to
Henry VII. who, it is said, frequently visited at
Haddon. On the death of Sir George Vernon, de-
nominated, for his splendid style of living, King of
the Peak, the estate descended to his daughters,
Margaret and Dorothy : the former married to Sir
Thomas Hanjey, second son of the Earl of Derby ;
and the latter, to Sir John Manners, second son of
the first Earl of Rutland of that name. From this
period, Haddon and the other estates belonging to
the Vernons have regularly continued in the Rutland
family.

The mansion, termed Haddon Hall, or Haddon
Grange, is seated on a bold eminence of lime-stone,
which rises on the east side of the river Wye, and
overlooks the delightful vale of Haddon. It is con-
sidered as the most complete of our ancient baronial
residences now remaining ; and, though uninhabited,
and in bad repair, it is highly interesting to the an-
tiquary, from the many indications it exhibits of the
festive manners and hospitality of our ancestors, and
of the inconvenient though social arrangement by
which their mode of life was regulated. This man-
sion continued to be the principal residence of the
Rutland family till the beginning of the last century,
when it was quitted for Belvoir Castle, iu Lincoln-
shire. In the time of the first Duke (so created by
Queen Anne,) one hundred and forty servants were
maintained here, and the house was kept open, in
the true style of Old English hospitality, for twelve
days after Christmas. Since that time' it has occa-
sionally been the scene of mirth and revelry ; and
the cheerful welcome of ages long past, so far as the
despoiled state of the mansion would permit, has not
been wanting to increase the pleasures of the guests.
The last time its festive board was spread, was
shortly after the conclusion of the American war,
when nearly two hundred couple danced in the Long
Gallery. "

The high turrets and embattlements of Haddon

Hall, when seen from a distance, give it the sem-
blance of a strong fortress ; and even on a nearer
approach, the illusion is preserved. Though thus
castellated, however, it was never furnished with the
means of effectual resistance. It consists of numer-
ous apartments and offices, erected at different pe-
riods, and surrounding two paved quadrangular
courts. The most ancient part is the tower over the
gateway, on the east side of the upper quadrangle,
supposed to have been built about the reign of Kd-
ward the Third. The chapel is of Henry the Sixth's
time ; and the tower at the north-west corner, on
which are the arms of the Vernons, Pipes, &c. is
nearly of the same period. The Gallery was erect-
ed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, after the death
of Sir George Vernon : some of the offices are more
modern ; but not any portion of the building is of a
date subsequent to the seventeenth century. The
chief entrance at the north-west angle, is under a
high tower, through a large arched gateway, which
leads, by a flight of angular steps, into the great
court. Near the middle of the latter is a second
flight of steps, communicating with the great porch,
over the door of which are two shields of arms carv-
ed in stone ; the one containing those of Vernon,
and the other, of Fulco de Pembridgc, Lord of
Tong, in Shropshire, whose daughter and heiress,
Isabella, married Sir Richard Vernon, and consi-
derably increased the family estate by her ewn pos-
sessions. On the right of the passage leading from
the porch, is the Great Hall, having a communica-
tion with the grand staircase and state apartments ;
and on the left, ranging in a line, are four large
doorways, with large pointed stone arches, which
connect with the kitchen, buttery, wine-cellar, and
numerous small upper apartments, which appear to
have been used as lodging-rooms for the guests and
their retainers. In the kitchen are two vast fire-
places, with irons for a prodigious number of spits ;
various stoves, great double ranges of dressers, an
enormous chopping-block, &c. Adjoining the kit-
chen are several smaller rooms, for larders and other
purposes.

Tb,e Hall must have been the great public din-
ing-room, for no other apartment is sufficiently spa-
cious for the purpose. At the upper end is a raised
floor, where the table for the Lord and his principal
guests was spread ; and on two sides is a gallery,
supported on pillars. From the south-east corner,
is a passage leading to the great staircase, formed
of huge blocks of stoue, rudely jointed ; ai the top
of which, on the right, is a large apartment, hung
with arras, and behind it, a little door, opening into
the hall-gallery, On the left of the passage, at the
head of the great stairs, are five or six very large
semicircular steps, of solid timber, which lead into
the Long Gallery, that occupies the whole south
side of the second court, and is 110 feet in length,
and 17 wide. The flooring is of oak planks, affirm-
ed by tradition to have been cut out of a single tree
which grew iu the garden. The wainscotting, also

DERBYSHIRE.

of oak, is curiously ornamented : on the frieze are
eorvings of boars' heads, thistles, and roses : these,
with the arms, &c. support the opinion, that it was
put up after the house came into the possession of
Sir John Manners, yet before the title of Earl of
Rutland descended to that branch of the family. In
the middle of the gallery is a large square recess,
besides several bow-windows, in one of which are
the arms of the Earl of Rutland, impaling Vernon,
with its quarterings, and circled with the garter,
&c. and in another, the arms of England, similarly
encircled, and surmounted with a crown. Near the
end of the gallery is a short passage, which opens
into a room having a frieze and cornice of rough
plaster, adorned with peacocks and boars' heads,*
in alternate succession : an adjoining apartment is
ornamented in the same manner ; and over the chim-
ney is a very large bas-relief of Orpheus charming
the Beasts, of similar composition.

All the principal rooms, except the gallery, (says
Mr. King, in his Observations on Ancient Castle---,
in the sixth volume of the Archaeologia) " were
hung with loose arras, a great part of which still
remains ; and the doors were concealed every where
behind the hangings, so that the tapestry was to be
lifted up to pass in and out ; only for convenience,
there were great iron hooks, (many of which are still
in their places,) by means whereof it might occa-
sionally be hefd back. The doors being thus con-
cealed, nothing can be conceived more ill-fashioned
than their workmanship ; few of these fit at all
close ; and wooden bolts, rude bars, and iron hasps,
are in general their best and only fastenings." The
Chapel is in the south-west angle of the great court ;
from which (he entrance leads under a low sharp-
poiuted arch. It has a body and two aisles, divided
from the former by pillars and pointed arches. In
the windows are some good remains of painted
glass ; ami the date Millesimo CCCCXXV1I. By
the side of the altar is a niche and bason for holy
water ; and an ancient stone ibnt is also preserved
here. Near the entrance into the chapel stands a
Roman altar, about three feet high, said to have been
dug up near Bakewell.

Haddon Park was ploughed up, and laid under
cultivation, nearly half a century ago. The gardens
consist entirely of terraces, ranged one above an-

* A hoar's head is the Vernon c'rest ; and, in this mansion,
it wa* tormcrly the custom, ever) Christmas, to serve up a
boar's head, with a song. The following " Ancient \ 7 erses,
by Allcyn Suttnn, concerning all the noble name of the Ver-
nons, Knights," are supposed to have constituted one of these
songs :

A grislie bore, ss raven's feather black,

l?r d in that land Rollo had by his wife,
Paste th' ocean >ea, the bastard's part to take,

That Harroid refte, of Kingdome and of lyfs.

>.. n. NO. 60.

other; each having a sort of stone ballustratte.
prospects from one or two situations are exceed-
ingly fine; and in the vicinity of the house is a,
luxuriant group of trees, the birth of an earlier
age.

HARDWICK HALL.] Hardwick Hall, in the hun-
dred of Scarsdale, has long been celebrated as on
of the seats of the Duke of Devonshire. The man-
sion is situated on a ridge of elevated ground, in a
fine park, well furnished with majestic oaks, from
amidst which the towers of the edifice emerge, their
summits appearing covered with the lightly shivered
fragments of battlements. These, however, are soon
perceived to be carved open-work, in which the let-
ters E.'S. frequently occur under a coronet, the ini-
tials and memorials of the vanity of Elizabeth,
Countess of Shrewsbury, by whom this edifice wat
erected. The house is built with stone, and has a
lofty tower at each corner, with a spacious court in
front, surrounded by a high wall. Walpole, allud-
ing to the taste of the Elizabethan age, of which
Hardwick Hall is a specimen, happily observes, that
" space and vastness seem to have made their v.liola
ifleas of grandeur. The palaces of the memorable
Countess of Shrewsbury are exactly in this style.
The apartments are lofty and enormous, and they
knew not how to furnish them. Pictures, had they
had good ones, would have been lost in chambers of
such height : tapestry, their chief moveable, was not
commonly perfect enough to be real magnificence.
Fretted ceilings, graceful mouldings of windows,
and painted glass, the ornaments of the preceding
age, were fallen into disuse. Immense lights com-
posed of bad glass, in diamond panes, cast an air of
poverty over their most costly apartments. That at
Hardwick, still preserved as it was furnished for the
reception and imprisonment of the Queen of Scots,
is a curious picture of that age and style. Nothing
can exceed the expence' in the bed of state, in the
hangings in the same chamber, a!nd of the coverings
for the tables. The first is cloth of gold, cloth of
silver, velvets of different colours, lace fringes, and
embroidery. The hangings consist of figures, rarge
as life, representing the virtues and vices, embroider-
ed on grounds of white and black velvet. The
cloths cast over the tables, are embroidered, and
embossed with gold on velvets and damasks. The

Whose of-springe synce, ranginge the Peakishe hills,
On ragged rocks a warlike forte dyd fynde,

And malchte with Vernoyls, welder yt at their will,
Where gentyll deeds approve their gentill kynd.

There Denne both arte and nature stronge hath made,
A lyvely sireame benethe yt runneth cleare,

The myghty oakes above cast pleasant shade,
Healthful! the ayre, all nedefuil things are neare.

Off which Denne hath the greatest tusked swyne,

A tygerebs hath taken to hjr ffare,
OH' Rewbie hewe, issude ol famous lyne ;

fn these conjoyn'd, rare verities doappeare:
Olf iheme 1 wyshe such orlspringe to proceide,
As may them both in worthy ness excede.
|, only

DERBYSHIRE.

only moveables of any taste, arc the cabinets,, and
tables themselves, carved iu oak. The chimneys are
wide enough for a hall, or kitchen ; and over the
arras are freeze of many feet deep, with miserable
relievos in stucco, representing hunting. Here, and
in all the great mansions of that age, is a gallery re-
markable only for its extent."

A considerable portion of the captivity of the
Queen of Scots was passed at Hard wick Hall, and
several of the apartments derive great interest from
the furniture, and other articles preserved in remem-
brance of that injured Princess. From the hall,
which is hung with tapestry, and which has a pair
of gigantic elk's horns flourishing between the win-
dows opposite to the entrance, is a stone staircase,
leading through the gallery of a small chapel, where
the chairs and cushions used by Mary still remain,
to the first story. Here, one apartment bears me-
morials of her imprisonment ; the bed, hangings,
and chairs, liaving been provided for her use: on
the hangings is a figure adorning the cross, and va-
rious other figures, allusive to virtue, chastity, libe-
rality, perseverance, patience, &c. these have been
kept with great care, and are still iu fine preserva-
tion. In the Dining-Room on this Moor, are the
following portraits : Elizabeth, Countess of Shrews-
bury, represented in a close black dress, a double
rulf, long chain of five rows of pearls, reaching be-
low her waist, sleeves down to her wrists, turned up
with small pointed white cuft's, a fan in her left hand,
and brown hair. Walpole records a tradition, that
this lady was told by a fortune-teller, that her d^eath
should not happen while she continued building.
She consequently employed much wealth in that
way, yet died in a hard frost, when the workmen
could not labour. Sir William Cavendish, husband
to the Countess, set. 42 ; dressed in a fur gown,
with a small flat cap, a glove in his left hand, a long
pointed beard, and whiskers : William, the first
Duke of Devonshire, in armour ; Charles Caven-
dish, his brother, taken when asleep ; John, Lord
Burleigh, son to Ann, Countess of Exeter ; Robert
Cecil, third sou to William, second Earl of Salis-
bury ; the Lord Treasurer Burleigh ; and a picture
called Erasmus, but having the Cavendish and other
arms of the Countess of Shrewsbury, in a lozenge,
with the inscription, " The conclusion of all things,
is to fear God, and keep his Commandments ; E. S.
1597;" written beneath. In the Drawing- Room is
another picture ef the Countess of Shrewsbury,
wherein she is pourtrayed of a more advanced age
than in the former : the dress is black, the same

* Translation. The stag is noble from his blood, his horn,
his heart, and his eye ; but more noble from his beautiful bur-
then. Or it may be thus poetically turned:

The stag from blood, from horn, from ear,

Much nobleness may claim;
But the proud weight lie's doojn'd to bear,

Confers superior tame.

chain of pearls, a large ruff with hollow plaits, and
over her hair a kind of figured gauze veil, brought
to the forehead in the middle, but leaving the sides
uncovered. Over the chimney, underneath the arms
of the Countess, which are here supported by two
stags, are these lines :

SANGUINE CORNU CORDE OCULO PEDE
CERVUS ET AURE NOB1LIS AT CLARO
PONDERE NOB1L10R.*

" The second floor," observes Mrs. RadcIifFe, 'in
her Tour to the Lakes> " is that which gives its
chief interest to the edifice, as nearly all the apart-
ments were allotted to Mary, (some of them for state
purposes ;) and the furniture is known by other
proofs than its appearance to remain as she left it.
The chief room, or that of audience, is of uncommon
loftiness, and strikes by its grandeur, before the ve-
neration and tenderness arise, which its antiquities,
and the plain told tale of the sufferings they wit-
nessed, excite. The walls, which are covered to a
considerable height with tapestry, are painted above
with historical groups. The chairs are of black
velvet, which is nearly concealed by a raised needle-
work of gold, silver, and colours, that mingle with
surprising richness, and remain in fresh preserva-
tion. The upper end of the room is distinguished
by a lofty canopy of the same materials, and by steps
which support two chairs. f In front of the canopy
is a carpeted table ; below which, the room breaks
into a spacious recess, where a few articles of furni-
ture are deposited used by Mary : the curtains are
of gold tissue, but in so tattered a condition, that its
original texture can hardly be perceived : this, and
the chairs which accompany it, are supposed to be
much earlier than Mary's time. A short passage
leads from the state apartment to her own chamber,
a small room, overlooked from the passage by a
window, which enabled her attendants to know that
she was contriving no means of escape through the
others into the court. The bed and chairs of this
room are of black velvet, embroidered by herself;
the toilet of gold tissue; all more decayed than
worn, and probably used only towards the conclu-
sion of her imprisonment here, when she was remov-
ed from some better apartment, in which the ancient
bed, now in the state room, had been placed."
Along the east front runs a gallery, 195 feet in
length, lighted from windows in deep square re-
cesses, which project beyond the wall. In this
apartment are many portraits of illustrious charac-
ters ; but several of them are defaced, and otherwise

f Gray, the poet, in one of his letters, dated 1762, observes
" Of all the places which I saw, Harclwicke pleases me the
most. One would think that Mary, Queen of bcots, was but
just walked down into the park tor half an hour; her gallery,
her room of audience, her antichamber, with the very canopies,
chairs of state, footstool, lit de repos, oratory, carpets, and
hangings just as she left them : a little tattered indeed, but the
more venerable; and all preserved with religious care, and
papered up iu winter."

greatly

DERBYSHIRE.

greatly injured by the damp. The following are the
-principal: Queen Elizabeth, in a gown painted
with serpents, birds, a sea-horse, swan, ostrich, &c.
the four golden. Sir Thomas More, in a fur gown,
and black cap. 'Lady Jane Grey, seated before n
harpsichord, on which a Psalm-book is opened. On
this picture is inscribed Mors potius qnam dedecus,
1591, astatis 19. James the Fifth, of Scotland, aet.
23 ; and his Queen, Mary, of Lorraine, tet. 24 ; iu
rich dresses, with long thin faces, and yellow hair.
Mary, Queen of Scots, in black, taken in the tenth
year of her captivity ; u her countenance much fad-
ed, deeply marked by indignation and grief, and re-
duced as to the spectre of herself, frowning with
suspicion upon all who approached it ; the black
eyes looking out from their corners, thin lips, some-
what aquiline nose, and beautiful chin." Thomas
Hobbes, set. 89 : the celebrated philosopher of Malms-
bury, who lies buried in the neighbouring church of
Hault-Huckiu-ll. He died in 1679, in the ninety-
first year of his age. Here are also portraits of
Lord Darnley, Sir Thomas Wyat, and Richard the
Third ; but all of them much injured.

The flights of steps which lead from the second
story to the roof, are of solid oak. From the leads,
in a clear day, the cathedrals of York and Lincoln
may be seen.

Upwards of two hundred yards from the present
residence, are the dilapidated remains of a more an-
cient one. A few apartments, though approached
with difficulty through the fragments of others, are

?et entire : one of them, named the Giant's Cham-
er, has been remarked for the beauty of its pro-
portions ; and is said, by Ken.net, in his Memoirs of
the Family of Cavendish, to hare been " thought
fit for a pattern of measure and contrivance of a
room at Blenheim." At what period this was built
is uncertain ; but it is known to have been the resi-
dence of the Hardwicks about the close of the fif-
teenth century.

HARTIIIJGTON.] The village of Hartington is si-
tuated in the Wapentake of Wirks worth, eight miles
and a half south-west from Bakewell. Hartington
parish extends along the western boundary of the
county, about twelve miles, and comprehends all the
tract of land which lies between the two manors of
Buxtou and Thorpe. It is divided into Hartington
Town Quarter, the Lower Quarter, the Middle
Quarter, and the Upper Quarter. Altogether, this
parish comprises a population of about 2000 ; but
the village, or what is termed the Town Quarter,
contains only about 74 houses, and 477 persons.

Some interesting rocky scenery presents itself
near the entrance of the village. Hartington for-
merly had a castle ; and some ancient remains are
ye( visible in many parts of the neighbourhood.

Hartington manor, which gives the title of Mar-
quis to the Dukes of Devonshire, comprises the
whole of the parish. It anciently belonged to the
Ferrers family, and afterwards to the Duchy of Lan-
caster ; iu the time of Charles I. it became the pro-

perty of Villie.rs, Duke of Buckingham ; but, in the
reign of Charles 11. it came to the Cavendishes, ia
whom it has ever since remained.

According to tradition, several battles have been
fought in this neighbourhood. On Hartington Com-
mon the Britons are reported to have had a sharp
conflict with the Roman General, Agricola ; and on
the hills near the village, the Republicans and Roy-
alists are asserted to have engaged severely during
the Civil Wars. The latter account has been cor-
roborated by the finding of many musket balls, which
have been washed down with the soil from the high
grounds after heavy rains. About a mile and a
half south-east of th village is a high eminence,
called Wolf's-Cote Hill, on the summit of which is
a barrow or low. This ancient remain is a large
heap of stones of various sizes ; the smallest are the
most outward, and over them is a thin covering of
moss or grass. It rises about three yards above the
common surface of the ground about it, and is ex-
actly circular. The circumference at the base is
nearly seventy yards : at the top, the diameter is
about ten yards ; and in the middle is a cavity one
yard deep, and three wide. The internal structure
of this barrow is said greatly to resemble that at
Chelmorton.

The scenery on the banks of the Dove, in this
part of the county, assumes much of the romantic
character of Dove Dale ; for though the rocks arc
less elevated, the singular and rude forms into which
they are broken, produce a striking effect ; and the
frequent changes in their appearance, are particu-
larly interesting. One rock, distinguished by the
name of the Pike, from its spiry form, and situation
in the midst of the stream, was noticed in the second
part of the Complete Angler, by Charles Cotton,
Esq. who resided at Beresford Hall, an ancient, but
extremely pleasant mansion, on the Staffordshire
side of the river.

Below this, the stream flows in a rapid current
between the craggy steeps .which form its boundaries,
for some distance ; when it loses itself underground,
and, after a mile's concealment, appears again with
more glory and beauty than before, running through
the most pleasant vallies, and most fruitful meadows.
The grounds at Beresford Hall are not extensive,
but they possess great variety ; in some parts gra-
dually sloping to the water's edge ; and in others
skirting the wild precipices which hang over the
river. Formerly they were kept in excellent order.
The small fishing-house, mentioned iu the Complete
Angler, remains ; and the words Piscatoribus Sa-
crum are yet visible over the door ; but the roof is
nearly destroyed ; and the furniture, and embellish-
ments, of the interior, have been long demolished.
In one of the rocks which impend over the river, is
a small cavity, only to be approached by an intricate
and arduous path, in which Mr. Cotton is said to
have eluded the pursuit of the officers of justice after
some offence of which he had been guilty. The
depth of it is about forty-five feet ; but evcii in thii

DERBYSHIRE.

small space arc several windings, which render it of
difficult access.

At a place called Pilsbury, in this parish, in a
deep valley on the banks of the Dove, in a field,
named Castle-Hills, are some ancient remains de-
serving of notice. On the east side is a sharp natu-
ral ridge of rocks, which in one part rises to the
height of twenty or five-and~twenty feet, bearing
some resemblance to a sugar loaf. Adjoining to
this is a raised bank, enclosing an area of about 180
feet from north to south, and 120 from east to west ;
and having a barrow near its western side, about
120 feet in diameter. Southward of the barrow is a
second bank*, forming a square of nearly 00 feet in
each direction.

HASELBERGE.] This is a hill, near the Peak ; re-
specting which the country people entertain an
opinion, that the hair of such cattle as feed on it
is changed, in the course of three years, to a
grey colour.

HATHERSAGE.] The little village of Hathersage
is situated in the hundred of High Peak, five miles
and a quarter north by east from Stoney Middleton.
It stands on the sharp descent of a hill, and is sur-
rounded by mountainous tracts, whose barren sum-
mits, and dark declivities agreeably contrast with
the verdure of the smiling vale which they enve-
lope. Here is a small manufacture of metal but-
tons.

Hathersage Church has a spire ; and is, on the
whole, rather a handsome building. According to
the following statement, which presents itself in a,
contemporary work, the earth, at this place, pos-
sesses an extraordinary property. " On opening a
grave for the interment of a female, on the 31st of
May, 1781, the body of a Mr. Benjamin Ashton,
who was buried on the 29th of December, 17-2-5, was
taken up, congealed as hard as flint. His breast,
belly, and face were swarthy ; but when turned
over, his back, and all the parts that lay under, were
nearly the same colour as when put into the coffin.
The coffin was of oak board, an inch and a half thick,
and as sound as when first deposited iu the grave,
which was so extremely wet that men were employ-
ed to lade out the water, that the coffin might be
kept from floating till the body was returned to it.
The face was partly decayed, conveying the idea,
that the putrefactive process had commenced pre-
viously to that which had hardened the flesh into
stone. The head was broke off in removing the
body from the coffin ; but was replaced in its first
position when again interred. Mr. Ashton was a
very corpulent man, and died in the 1-2A year of his
age."

In the church-yard are two stones, which, accord-
ing to tradition, mark the spot where Little John,
the friend of Robin Hood, lies buried. They are
thirteen feet four inches distance, which is here said
to have been the height of this adventurer. Pilking-
ton states, that a thigh-bone, measuring twenty-nine
inches and a half, was found in -this grave, at the

depth of six feet* Above the church is n plae*,
called Camp Green, a high large circular mound of
earth, enclosed by a deep ditch.

A paper of llayman Rooke's, in the 8th volume
of the Archseologia, contains an-- account of some
ancient remains on Hathersage Moor, particularly
of a Rocking-stone, twenty-nine feet iu circumfer-
ence ; and near it, a large stone, with a rock-bason,
and many tumuli, in which urns, beads, and rings,
have been found. At a little distance was- another
remarkable stone, thirteen feet six inches in length,
which appeared to have been placed by art on the
brow of a precipice, and supported by two small
stones. On the top is a large rock-bason, four feet-
three inches in diameter ; and close to this, on the
south side, a hollow, cut like a chair, with a step to
rest the feet upon. This, in the tradition of the
country, is called Cair's Chair. Not far from this
spot are some other Rocking-stones.

HAVFIELD.] The long, straggling village of
Hayficld, divided by a fine stream of water, is situ-
ated in the hundred of High Peak, four miles and a
half north by west from Chapel-in-the-Frith. The
inhabitants are chiefly clothiers and cotton manufac-
turers.

HOPE.] The pleasant little village of Hope, ia
the hundred of High Peak, lies six miles north by
east from Tides well. It had a priest and a church,
as far hack as the time of Edward the Confessor ;
and, in the reign of Edward I. it had also to boast
of a castle. Formerly, it was a market-town.

Gongh, in his Additions to Camden, furnishes the
following curious statement, connected with the his-
tory of this village. "The moors of Hope parish
afford an extraordinary instance of the preservation of
human bodies interred in them. One Barber, a gra-
sier, and his maid servant, going to Ireland in th
year 1674, were lost in the snow, and remained co-
vered with it from January to May, when they were
so offensive, that the coroner ordered them to be
buried on the spot. About twenty-nine years after-
wards, some countrymen, probably having observed
the extraordinary property of this soil in preserving;
dead bodies, had the curiosity to open the ground,
and found them no way altered ; the colour of the
skin being fair and natural, and their flesh as soft as
that of persons newly dead. They were exposed
for a sight during the course of twenty years follow-
ing, though they were much changed in that time by
beingso often uncovered. In 1716, Dr. Henry Bourn,
M. B. of Chesterfield, saw the man perfect, his heard
strong, and about a quarter of an inch long : the
hair of his head short; his skin hard, and of 'a tan-
ned leather colour, pretty much the same as the
liquor and earth they lay in : he had on a broad
cloth, which the doctor in vain tried to tear off a
skirt. The woman was more decayed, having been
taken out of the ground, and rudelv handled ; her
flesh particularly decayed, her hair long -ind springy,
like that of a 'living person. Mr. liarber of Ro-
theram, the man's grandson, had both bodies buried

DERBYSHIRE.

in Hope Church, and, upon looking into the grave
uome time afterwards, it was found they were en-
tirely consumed. Mr. Wermald, the minister of
Hope, was present at their removal : he observed,
that they lay about a yard deep, in moist soil, or
moss, but no water stood in the place. He saw
their stockings drawn off, and the man's legs, which
had never been uncovered before, were quite fair :
the flesh, when pressed by his finger, pitted a little ;
and the joints played freely ? without the least stiff-
ness : the other parts were much decayed. What
was left of their cloaths, not cut off for curio-
sity, was firm and good ; and the woman had on
a piece of new serge, which seemed never the
worse."

HOPTON.] Hopton, in the parish of Wirksworth,
is situated two miles west by south from the town
of that name. The Gell family has had a seat here,
ever since the reign of Queen Elizabeth.* The old
mansion was pulled down some years ago, and a
new one erected. The grounds have also been
much improved ; and a new road, distinguished by
the appellation of the Via Gellia, has been carried
towards Matlock through a romantic valley, which
affords several very beautiful views. In forming
this road, an iron dagger, and some iron heads of
spears, were found, covered to the depth of three
feet beneath the surface by a small stone. About a
mile south from the valley, on a rising ground, is a
large barrow, 196 feet in circumference, in which an
uru of coarse baked earth, full of bones and ashes,
was discovered by some labourers who were prepar-
ing the ground for a plantation. The urn, which
fell to pieces on endeavouring to take it up, was
covered with a piece of yellowish free-stone, much
corroded, on which part of a Roman inscription was
apparent.

KEDLESTON.] Kedleston, the Chetelestune of
Domesday, is situated in the hundred of Appletree,
four miles north-west by north from Derby. It is
much celebrated as the seat of Nathaniel Curzon,

* John Cell, Sheriff of Derbyshire in the year 1034, and in
1043 was created a baronet by Charles the First, was an ac-
tive partizan in the cause of the Parliament during the Civil
War, and performed several spirited actions in its service.
His conduct, however, was not always satisfactory ; for, having
heen appointed receiver of the money arising from the seques-
trations of the effects of those persons within the county who
were suspected of being friendly to the King, an order was
issued to enforce the payment of 6000/. which remained unac-
counted for in his hands. He was afterwards tried for mispri-
aion of treason, and sentenced to forfeit his estate, and be im-
prisoned for life; but within two years he received a pardon.
Admiral John Gell, who died in the month of October, 1802,
was of this family.

f Giraline de Curson, or Curzon, Lord Scarsdale's ancestor,
was an attendant on William the Conqueror, when he reduced
this country under the Norman yoke. He appears to have
t>een an officer of sonic rank, as he had divers lands assigned to
him in the counties of Oxford, Berks, and Devon. Richard,
his second son, was, in the reign of Henry the First, possessed
in this county of a considerable estate, in which Kedlestou was
Included, aiid from him it has descended to his preseat lord
. II. NO. 50.

Lord Scarsdale, whose father, the late Lord, erected
an inn at the verge of Kedleston Park, for the ac-.
commodation of company resorting to the mineral
springs in the neighbourhood, and of those who,
from motives of curiosity, might be induced to vi-
sit his mansion an edifice eminently entitled to
notice. t

Kedleston Park, which is about five miles in cir-
cumference, contains some flourishing plantations,
with a grove of venerable oaks, some of them 24 feet
in girth, and 118 in height. Through the grove a
road leads over an ciegant stone bridge of three
arches, across a fine sheet of water, which has been
amplified by cutting away the banks of an insigni-
ficant brook, which formerly meandered unnoticed
through the park. Several cascades and islands
have been formed above the bridge, which agree-
ably diversify the scenery. From the bridge a gen-
tle ascent of several hundred yards loads to the
house, a grand and elegant building, three hundred
and sixty feet in extent, consisting of a centre, a:id
two pavilions connected with the main building by
corridors of the Doric order : that to the right com-
prises the kitchen .and other oilices ; that to the left
consists of the private apartments of the family.
In the centre of the north front, approached from the
bridge, is a double flight of steps leading to a grand
portico, whose pediment is supported by six co-
lumns of the Corinthian order, proportioned from,
those of the Pantheon at Rome. They are thirty
feet high, and three feet in diameter ; several of them
are of a single stone. Over the pediment are statues of
Venus, Bacchus, and Ceres ; and within the por-
tico, are those of a Bacchante, two Muses, and a
Vestal, besides several medallions in basso-relievo.
Beneath the portico, at the basement or rustic story,
is the general entrance, which opens into a spacious
but low room, called Caesar's Hall, from the busts
of the Caesars, with which it is adorned. Hence
through the tetrastyle, which is furnished with busts
of Alexander, Marcellus, Antoninus, &c. the stran-

ship, whose father was created a peer on the 9th of April, ;
the year 1761 : so that the family has been in the possession of
this manor about 700 years. The late Right Hon. Lord Scars-
dale, (a Baronet, LL. D. and Vice-President of the Middlesex
Hospital) was the eldest son of (lie l;ite Nathaniel Ciirzon, Birr.
His lordship died in the month of December, (804, in the 78th
year of his age, and was succeeded in his titles and estates by
his eldest sou, the Hon. Nathaniel Curzon, now Lord Scars-
dale, who had represented the county of Derby in tsvo succes-
sive Parliaments. This family first represented the county of
Derby in Parliament in the second year of Richard II. and
continued to do so, with some intervals, until the I2lh of Wil-
liam III. from which period the family uninterruptedly repre-
sented the county in Parliament, until the year 1761, when his
present Majesty was pleased to call the kite .Lord to the House of
Peers. His lordship's private worth will long be in remembrance,
and the poor of the surrounding villages will recollect with
gratitude his continued benevolence. That his Lordship had
an exquisite taste for the fine arts, is universally known and
acknowledged by those of the present age, and his noble man-
sion of Kedleston will remain a monument of it to posterity.

R ger

DERBYSHIRE.

ger is conducted into the Hall, an exceedingly mag-
nificent apartment, planned after the Greek Hall of
the ancients, and measuring sixty-seven feet three
inches, by forty -two feet. The coiling, which rises
to the top of the house, is illuminated by three sky-
lights, and supported by twenty-two columns of ala-
baster, beautifully variegated with red, and having
rich capitals of white marble : the columns are
twenty-five feet high. Behind the columns are
twelve niches, each containing a good cast from the
antique, and above them a series of paintings in
Chiaro Oscuro, from Homer. The grates in this
apartment are designed after antique tripods, and
the seats from the ancient sarcophagus. Almost
every room is decorated with paintings.

In the Music-Room, 30 feet by 24, and 22 high,
are the following: Bacchus and Ariadne ; Guido.-
Two beautiful Flower Pieces ; Baptisle. The Tri-
umph of Bacchus ; Luca Giordano : 13 feet 10 by
8 feet 4 : a fine picture. An Old Man's Head ;
Rembrandt. A Thunder Storm, with an Arm of the
Sea ; Tempesta.

The Drawing-Room, 44 feet by 28, and 23 high,
lias a covered ceiling after the antique, a Venetian
window, and portals finished with Corinthian co-
lumns of Derbyshire alabaster. The chimney-piece,
of Italian marble, is remarkably fine. In this apart-
ment are the following well executed performances :
-Orlando and Olympia ; Ann. Caracci. Alexander
in the Tent oi' Darius : and Alexander weeping over
the dead Body of Clytus : P. Veronese. Land-
scape ; Cuyp : 6 feet by 4 : a very beautiful paint-
ing, and richly coloured. Landscape, with the
Story of Naaman ; the joint composition of Mom-
pert, Brughel, Teniers, and old Franks. This is
considered to be a very curious painting ; but the
manner of the different artists does not assimilate,
and the colouring is harsh. A small cabinet picture
of the Salutation ; Andrea Del Sarto. Christ and
the Woman with the Box of Ointment ; Benedetto
De Lutti. Landscape ; Claude Lorraine : 3 feet 4,
by 2 feet 6. The aerial perspective extremely fine ;
and the composition judicious. Cain and Abel ;
Benedetto De Lutti. In this masterly performance,
the horror and remorse of Cain after the murder of
his brother are extremely well depicted. The ma-
nagement of the light and shade is singular; but,
n the whole, the tints are rather of too sombre a
cast. A Sleeping Cupid ; Guido : 3 feet 10, by
2 feet 10 : an admirable figure. The Virgin and
Child : Parmegiauo.

The Library, 36 feet by 21, and 22 high, is finish-
ed with stucco ornaments, Doric entablature, and

* This Lady was the natural daughter of Mrs. Hughes, an
actress.

-] This nobleman was an active pnrtizan in the cause of
CliarK-s the Fiist, by \vhoTi he was nominated Lord Lieutenan'
of Ireland ; a situation to which he wa&a second time appointed
aft'T the Restoration.

J "Of the many," remarks Mr. Warner, " who evinced

Mosaic ceiling. On the top of the mahogany book-
cases are the busts of Homer, Sappho, Socrates,
Virgil, Anacreon, Pindar, and Horace. The chief
paintings are : Diogenes; Luca Giordano. Adam
and Eve : and Lot and his Daughters : Carlo Loiti.
Daniel interpreting Belshazzar's Dream ; Rem-
brandt : 5 feet 6 inches square. This is an exqui-
site performance ; but the ill-judged style iu which
the artist has decorated the head of Daniel, fre-
quently excites laughter : it appears covered with
an immense peruke. Shakespeare ; a fine copy by
Vandyck. An Old Man's Head ; Salvator Rosa :
executed with extraordinary spirit and animation.
Winter, represented as an aged Man ; Andrea Sac-
ehi. Rinaldo and 'Armida, from Tasso ; Nic. Pos-
sin.

The Saloon is acknowledged to be one of tha
most beautiful apartments of its kind in Europe. Ita
form is circular, crowned with a dome, orna-
mented with rich stux-eo-work, finished in octagon
compartments with roses : its dimensions arc, 42
feet in diameter, 24 feet to the cornice, (which is
extremely rich,) 55 feet to the top of the cupola, and
62 to the extremity of the sky-light. Beneath, th
saloon is divided into four recesses, or alcoves, hay-
ing fire-places, representing altars, adorned with;
classical figures in bass relief: it has also four doors ;
the whole painted and ornamented with white and
gold. Over the doors are paintings of Ruins by
Hamilton ; and above the recesses are delineations
in Chiaro Oscuro by Rebecca ; the subjects from.
English History. The pilasters are of Scagliola
marble, in imitation of verd antique, by Bartoli. A
chandelier, branches, and exquisite stucco-work, by
Rose, complete the decorations of the room, which
presents a singularly graceful combination of ele-
gance and splendour.

In the Anti-Chamber, 24 feet by 12, and 20 high,
are two Landscapes by Heusch ; a St. John, by
Carlo Maratti ; and a pair of beautiful pieces, in
Chiaro Oscuro, in imitation of ivory. These were
sent from Germany, some years ago, by one of the-
late Lord Scarsdale's sons. The subjects are, Cu-
pid in a Car drawn by Cupids ; and Cupid carried
on the Shoulders of the Loves.

The Principal Drawing- Room, 24 feet by 24, and
20 high, contains portraiis of the late Lord and Lady
Scarsdale ; by Hone. A Blind Beggar, fcc. by Jan.
Stein. Ruperta;* Sir Godfrey Kneller. James,
Duke of Ormond ;f Sir Peter Lely. Landscape
and Figures ; Bergham. View of Matlock, east
end ; Zuccarelli. Banditti ; Loutherbourg. Henry
Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans ;% Sir Peter Lcly.

The

their attachment to the unfortunate Charles, no one appears to
have more readily risqued his life and fortune than this person-
;ape ; whose zeal has, indeed, been construed into something
more than mere loyalty, as he is reported to have been early
favoured by, and finally married to, Queen Henrietta Maria;
on whom, during the troubles of her husband, he faithfully and
diligently attended, through great perils and dangers ; for which

DERBYSHIRE.

The Principal Bed-Chamber is 30 feet by 22, and
30 feet high. The chimney-piece is of statuary
murble ; with an oval tablet, containing a fine ape- j
cimen of Derbyshire Blue John. Here are Two
Views of Cumberland ; Barret. Two Landscapes,
with figures ; Zuccarelli. The Duchess of Ports-
mouth ; Vandyck. The Duchess of York ; Sir
Peter Lely. The Countess of Dorset ; a fine copy
by Hamilton from Mytcns. This lady was daugh-
ter of Sir George Curzon, and Governess to the
Princess Mary, and the Duke of York. Her dress
is extremely singular, being curiously worked, and
put on over an immense hoop ; the waist contracted
by a close boddice ; and her neck encircled with a
large ruff.

In the Wardrobe, 22 feet by 14, and 20 high, are
thirty-six small pieces of enamel, after Albert Dtirer,
representing a series of events in the liie of Our Sa-
viour. A fine painting of Turkies, &c. Van Utrecht.
Catherine, Countess of Dorchester ;* Sir Godfrey
Kiiellcr. Sir Paul Rycaut ;t Vandyck. Two
beautiful cabinet pieces, the Nativity, and the Re-
surrection, by Murillo. Prince Henry, the amiable
son of James the First; Cornelius Jansen. Qtiin-
tin Matsys, his Wife, and Child ; by himself.

The Dining-Room, 30 feet by 24, and 20 high, is
neatly finished with stucco, and has a painted ceil-
ing by Zucchi. In the centre is represented Love
embracing Fortune ; the circles display the Four
Quarters of the Globe, and the obloag squares con- .
tain allegorical delineations of the Seasons. The
chief pictures are two Landscapes from Milton's
L' Allegro, by Zuccarelli. Two line pieces by Sny-
ders : one representing Dead Game ; the other,
Ducks and Hawks : these are 7 feet 4, by 5 feet 3 ;
and a Landscape by Claude Lorraine. The above
apartments are shown to visitors with the western
Pavilions, iti which is a noble Kitchen, 48 feet by 24,
viewed from a gallery connected with the corri-
dor. Over the chimney is the motto, " Waste not ;
Want not."

The East, or Family Pavilion, contains some
good paintings. In Lady Scarsdale's Dressing-
Room, are Landscapes by Claude Lorraine, Wooton,
Caspar Poussin, Breughel, and Bergham ; St.
Christiana, by Carlo Dolci ; and a Nativity, by Jan.
Bassau. In Lord Scarsdale's Dressing-Room is a
cartoon of Venus and Cupids, by Carlo Maratti ; a
Badger and Fruit, by Snyders ; and Christ deliver -

he was rewarded with the title of Lord Jermyn ; and was, for
continued services to the family previous to the Restoration,
created Earl of St. Albans !>y Charles the Second, to whom he
was appointed Chamberlain."

* This beautiful female was daughter of Sir Charles Sedley,
and mistress to James the Second, by whom she was raised to
the rank of a Countess ; a situation which her father erer con-
sidered as asplendid indignity offered to his family. An injury
so sensible, could scarcely be forgotten, or remain unrcsented,
when opportunity offered. On the first agitation of the ques-
tion which brought about the Revolution, Sir Charles was a
distinguished partizan, and at once indulged the parent's resent-

ing the Keys to St. Peter, by Old Pahna, the Mag-
dalen by Corregio.

It is said that the idea of the South, or Garden
Front, of this superb mansion, was formed from the
Arch of Constantine at Rome ; the entablature is
supported by four Corinthian pillars, and the portico
is ornamented by med tllions, vases, and statues.

KING'S MEAD.] St. Mary de Pratis, or St. Mary
of the Meadows also called King's Mead, and the
Spaw is a village, in the parish of St. Werburgb,
in the hundred of Morleston and Litchnroh. About
the year 1160, the Abbot of Durnley founded here a
priory of Benedictine nuns. King Henry II. grant-
ed and confirmed to the nans, twenty-seven acres of
land, in his forest oi tiie Peak, with large common-
age in that forest ; and King Henry 111. granted to-
the prioress and nuns, an augmentation of one hun-
dred shillings per annum, to be paid by the bailiffs
of Nottingham. This nunnery, at the suppression,
was valued at AIS/. lt>. '2/1. per annum.

KNO-VVI.E MILLS.] This is a beautiful retired spot,
surrounded by fine woods and plantations, rather
more than a mile to the eastward of Foremark, the
scat of Sir Francis Burdett. Here, in the mouth of
a narrow dell, formerly stood a singular but plea-
sant house, climbing, as it were, irregularly from
the bottom of the dell to the summit of its western
bank. It was built by Sir Walter Burdett, younger
son to the first possessor of Foremark, of this family.
Having disagreed with his relations, he disposed of
this estate to a gentleman named llurdiuge, who in-
habited the mansion for some years. It was re-
purchased by the late Sir Robert Burdett, who made
it his residence while the Hall at Foremark was re-
building, and afterwards dismantled it. To a rem-
nant of the upper part of the house that was- left
standing, a neat little room was subsequently attach-
ed, with ornamental doors and \,indows opening
upon a small grass-plat, or terrace. The prospect
of the scenery from this spot is particularly attrac-
tive.

LOCKHAY.]- Lockhay, orLocko, is situated in the
hundred of Apple tree, four miles and a half east-
north-east from Derby. Here was formerly a pre-
ceptory or hospital, said to be of the order of St.
Lazarus of Jerusalem, and subject to a foreign house
in France, to which was annually paid from hence
a rent of 20/. but, on a war Vith France, it was
seized by the Crown of England, and given by Ed-

ment, and the wit's spleen, when he said, " The King did me
the honour to make my daughter a Countess ; and 1 should be
ungrateful, indeed, not to assist in making his daughter (M;iry>
Princess of Orange) a Queen." When the remonstrance' of
his Confessors had induced James to break olf the connection
with the Countess, she married David, Earl of Portmore, and
died in 1717.

f The diplomatic talents of Ryraut occasioned him to be
employed as a negociator by Charles the Second ; his succes-
sor, James; and King William. He was also eminent as an
historian ; and his History of the Ottoman Empire was spoken
of by Dr. Johnson in high terms of praise.

2- ward

DERBYSHIRE.

ward the Third to King's Hall, in the University of
Cambridge.

Lockhay Park, the seat of William Drury Lovre,
Esq. and anciently of the Gilberts and Coopers,
consists of agreeable slopes, and pleasant inequali-
ties of ground, enlivened by a good artificial lake.
The style of planting of the last century is, however,
too apparent ; the rows of trees in some places form-
ing right angled triangles, and the clumps appear-
ing tasteless and formal. Through the park is a
road leading to Dale Abbey, already described.

LONGFORD.] Longford is situated in the hundred
of Appletree, five miles and a half south by east from
.Derby. Longford Hall, the soat of W. Coke, Esq.
is a spacious fabric, with wings apparently more
modern than the body of the house. The grounds
are pleasant ; and the surrounding country furnishes
a. variety of pleasing views.

MACKWORTII.] Mack worth lies in the hundred
of Morleston and Litchurch, two miles and three
quarters west-north-west from Derby. Here was
formerly a castle, the site of which is the property of
Lord Scarsdale. Tradition states, that it was de-
molished in the Civil Wars ; and some high ground
in the neighbourhood is yet called Cannon Hills,
from the belief that the ordnance were there planted
when the castle was destroyed.

MAM TOR.] Mam Tor, or the Shivering Moun-
tain, stands about a mile and a half north-cast from
Eldcn Hole. It is composed of shale and micace-
ous grit in alternate stratification ; the former being
highly impregnated with vitriol of iron. Its name,
Mam Tor, is an ancient British appellation, signify-
ing the Mother Mountain ; but the Shivering Moun-
tain is a more modern title, received from the cir-
cumstance of the shale continually decomposing
under the action of the atmosphere, and falling in
large quantities &own the face of the precipice into
the valley below. The vulgar error, that Mam Tor
has suffered no diminution in bulk, though the shale
and grit have been shivering from its face for ages,
requires no confutation ; for the valley below is
overwhelmed with its ruins, to the extent of half a
mile; and the lines of ancient encampment, which
occupied the summit, have been destroyed for a
number of yards by the crumbling of the substance.
At some distance to the north-west, is another break
in the mountain, called Little Mam Tor, from which
the shale and grit frequently shiver, but not in so
great a degree as at the former, where the rushing
noise of the descending riass is sometimes so loud
as to be heard at Castleton. The summit of this
mountain was extremely well adapted far a military
station, as the ascent on every side, excepting the
north-east, is very steep; and the height of the
mountain is nearly 1300 feet above the lovel of the
valley. The camp was surrounded by a double
trench, the greater part of which is still in excellent
preservation. It extended from the north-east to
the south-west, along the ridge of the eminence,
occupying somewhat more than sixteen acres of

ground, the circumference being nearly 1200 yards.
The enclosed area is very irregular, but approaches
to the oblong form. The principal entrance was
from the west. At the north-east corner is a peren-
nial spring; and near the south-west are two bar-
rows, in one of which, opened a few years ago, a
brass cell, and some fragments of an unbaked uru
were discovered.

MARK-EATON.] Mark-Eaton, or Marketon, is in
the hundred of Morleston and Litchurch, a mile and
three quarters west-north-west from Derby. At
the Conquest, the manor belonged to the Earl of
Chester. Soon afterwards it became the property
! of the Touchets, one of whom married the heiress of
Lori Audley, and acquired that title. In the reign
of Henry VIII. it was sold by Lord Audley to Sir
John Mundy, Knt. Lord Mayor of London, the di-
rect lineal ancestor of the present owner, F. N. C.
Mundy, Esq.

MARVEL ATONES.] This natural curiosity is situ-
ated about three miles from Buxton, ana two from
Chapel- in-the- Frith, in a pasture on the right of the
road. " It is a rock," says Mr. Bray in his Tour
into Derbyshire, " of about 280 feet long, and 80
broad at the widest part ; but does not any where
rise more than three feet above the surface of the
ground. The face of it is deeply indented with in-
numerable channels, or gutters, of various length,
breadth, shape, and depth ; from nine inches to
thirty feet long; and from five inches to five feet
wide. There are also a great number of holes ;
some round, some of an irregular shape, from the
size of a small bason to that of a large kettle. The
channels, or gutters, generally run north and south ;
but none of them go quite across the stone ; there is
always some seam or ridge in the rock, terminating
the channel ; and in a few inches another channel
commences, which is also crossed by another seam
or ridge. These seams, or ridges, are from four
inches to four feet broad ; but there can hardly b
found four feet square, without a hole or a channel.
The stone is not jointed, or of a loose kind, but one
hard, firm rock. At the east and west ends are a
great number of irregularly shaped stones, standing
i a few inches from each other ; the interspaces filled
j with earth : perhaps, if the earth was removed, it
i would be found, that these are parts of the same
rock. The whole is certainly the work of nature."

MATI.OCK.] This celebrated village lies in the
Wapentake of Wirksworth, 17 miles north by west
from Derby, and 143i north-north-west from Lon-
don. It has been thus immortalized by Darwin, in
his Loves of the Plants :

When: as proud MASSON rises rude and bleak,
Ami with mishapen turrets crests the Peak,
Old MATLOCK japes, will) marble jaws, bi'iieath,
And o'er scar'd DERVVENT bends his flinty teetii ;
Deep in wide caves btrlow the danf>erous soil
Blue sulphurs flami-, imprison'd waters boil.
I nipi'tuoiis streams in spiral columns. rise
Through rifted rocks, imrjatirnt for the skies;
Or, o'er bright seas of babbling lavas blow,
As heave and less the billowy fires below ;

Condeiii'd

DERBYSHIRE.

Conclens'd on high, in wandering rills they glide
_ From MASSON'S dome, and burst his sparry side ;
Round his grey towers, and down his fringed walls.
From cliff to cliff the liquid treasure falls ;
In beds of stalactite, bright ores among,
O'er corals, shells, and chryslals, winds along ;
Crusts the green mosses, and the tangled wood,
And sparkling plunges to its parent flood.

It should be observed, that the general name,
Matlock, comprises both the village and the bath.
The former is at least as ancient as the Conquest,
tnd is chiefly situated on the eastern banks of the
river ; the latter is considerably more recent in its
origin, and stands on the western margin. " At the
time of compiling the Domesday Book," observes
the author of the Description of Matlock Bath,
" Matlock appears to have been a hamlet of the
manor of Meteslbrd (the situation of which is now
unknown), which was part of the demesnes ot the
crown. It afterwards became a part of the estate of
William de Ferrers, Earl of Derby, who had a char-
ter of free warren for his demesne lands here. On
the attainder of his son Robert de Ferrers, for
espousing the cause of Simon de Montford, Earl of
Leicester, Matlock, then become a manor, reverted
to the crown ; and was granted, in the 7th of Ed-
ward I. to Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, and conti-
nued a part of the possessions of the Earldom and
Duchy of Lancaster, till the fourth of Charles I.
when it was granted by that King, along with a
great number of other manors and estates, to Ed-
ward Ditchfield, and the other trustees, to the copy-
holders of the manor of Matlock, and is now divided
into several small shares."

The inhabitants of the village about 2400 in
number are chiefly employed in the manufacture of
cotton, and in the neighbouring lead mines. The
houses are mostly built of stone, and at the entrance
of the village is a neat bridge of the same material.
The church stands on the verge of a romantic rock
at some distance from the bridge : it contains a
nave, side aisles, and a small chancel ; having on
the outside an ancient tower with pinnacles, and
spouts formed in the shape of grotesque animals.
Above the. church, on an eminence called RiberHill,
are the remains of what has been supposed a Druid-
ieal altar, but which more resemble a cromlech ;
though probably it was only intended for a signal
point. It is called the Hirst Stones, and consists of
four rude masses of grit-stone, the smallest of which
is placed on the others, and supposed to weigh
about two tons. On the upper stone is a circular
hole, six inches deep, and nine wide, in which,
about sixty 'years ago, a stone pillar was standing.

The Bath is situated about a mile and a half from
the village ; and though few situations can be more
beautiful, it was occupied only by some rude cot-
tages, iunabited by miners, till about the year 1698,

at which time its warm springs began to attract no-
tice, for their medicinal qualities. About this period
the original bath, as we learn from Dr. Short's His-
tory of Mineral Waters, " was built and paved by
the Rev. Mr. Fern, of Matlock, and Mr, Howard,
of Cromford; and put into the hands of George
Wragg, who, to confirm his title, took a lease from
the several Lords of the Manor, for ninety-nine *
years, paying them a fine of 150/. and the yearly
rent or acknowledgment of sixpence each. He then
built a few small rooms adjoining to the bath, which
were but a poor accommodation for strangers. The
lease and property of Mr. Wragg were afterwards
purchased for about 1000/. by Messrs. Smith and
Fennel, of Nottingham, who erected two large com-
modious buildings, with stables and other conveni-
encies ; made a coach road along the river side from
Cromford, and improved the horse-way from Mat-
lock Bridge. The whole estate afterwards became
the property of Mr. Fennel by purchase ; and on his
death, about the year 1733, descended to his daugh-
ter, and her husband :" it is now the joint property
of several persons. The means thus employed to
render the accommodation attractive, and the in-
creasing celebrity of the waters, occasioned a greater
influx of visitors ; and a second spring having been
discovered within the distance of about a quarter of
a mile, a new bath was formed, and another lodging-
house erected, for the reception of company. At a
more recent period, a third spring was met with,
three or four hundred yards eastward of that which
was first noticed ; but its temperature being some de-
grees lower than either of the other springs, it was
iiot brought into use till a level had been made in
the hill, and carried beyond the point where its wa-
ters had intermingled with those of the cold spring.
Another bath and" lodging- house were then erected ;
and the latter, by various subsequent alterations, is
become one of the most commodious hotels in En-
gland. These buildings are of stone, and are respec-
tively named, the Old Bath, the New Bath, and Uw
Hotel. The recent general terms of accommodation,
at these houses, were as follow : a bed-chamber
five shillings per week ; a private parlour from four-
teen shillings to a guinea ; breakfast, one shilling
and three-pence ; dinner at the public table, two
shillings ; tea, optional, but when taken, one shil-
ling ; supper, one shilling and sixpence ; bathing,
sixpence each time. The number of persons that
may be thus accommodated, and at the private
lodging-houses, is between four and five hundred.
Boarding and lodging may generally be obtained
on moderate terms : provisions of all kinds ar
plentifully supplied from the neighbouring markets.
Glandular affections, rheumatism, and its conse-
quent debility, obstructions from biliary concretions,
gravel, consumption in its first stages, hamioptoe,
and generally, all those complaints that are promot-

* It should be, we conceive, nine hundred afd ninety-
nine.

VOL. II. NO. 50.

DERBYSHIRE.

ed or increased by a relaxed state of the muscular
fibres, are likely to derive advantage from the Mat-
lock waters. All the warm springs issue from be-
tween fifteen and thirty yards above the level of the
river : higher or lower, the springs are cold, and
only common water. The temperature of the for-
mer, as given by Dr. Pearson and others, is 68 of
Farenheit's thermometer ; but Dr. Elliot, and Dr.
Pennington, have stated it at 69. Dr. Percival re-
marks in his " Medical and Experimental Essays,"
that the Matlock waters resemble those of Bristol,
both in their chemical and medical qualities ; but
that the Matlock water exhibits no proof of a mine-
ral spirit, either by the taste, or the test of syrup of
violets. He adds, " that it is very slightly impreg-
nated with selenite, or earthy salts, which is proved
by its comparative levity, it weighing only four
grains in a pint heavier than distilled water : and
that a grey precipitate, occasioned by adding a solu-
tion of silver and aqua-fortis, renders it probable
that a small portion of sea salt is contained in it."
In Dr. Pennington's experiments it was found that
alkalies made the water cloudy and milky : and that
when a gallon was evaporated, thirty-seven or thirty-
eight grains of sediment were deposited ; of this
about twelve or thirteen were saline matter, com-
posed of calcareous nitre, (vitriolated magnesia,)
and twenty-four or twenty-five grains, calcareous
earth.

The Matlock season commences the latter end of
April, and continues till November. In such a se-
questered spot, amusements cannot be expected to
be much diversified, but what the place admits of are
innocent and cheap. Besides the bowling green,
each of the inns has a billiard table. Balls are oc-
casionally held here ; but it depends on the pleasure
of the company when, and a feed master of the ce-
remonies, it is probable, will never be required here.

It has been justly observed, by a modern writer,
that " the unparalleled grandeur of the scenery
round Matlock, renders every attempt to delineate
its varied characteristics by words, at least, hopeless,
if not altogether impossible. The bold and romantic
steeps, skirted by a gorgeous covering wood, and
rising from the margin of the Derwent, whose waters
sometimes glide majestically along, and sometimes
flow in a rapid stream over ledges and broken masses
of stone ; the frequent changes of scene, occasioned
by the winding of the dale, which at every step
varies the prospect, by introducing new objects ; the
huge rocks, in some places bare of vegetation, in
others covered with luxuriant foliage, here piled
upon each other in immense masses, there, display-
ing their enormous fruits in one unbroken perpendi-
cular mass ; and the sublimity 1 , and picturesque
beauty, exhibited by the manifold combinations of
the interesting forms congregated near this enchant-
ing spot, can never be adequately depicted by the
powers of language. The creations of the pencil
alone, are commensurate to the excitations in the
Blind, of correspondent images." , The exquisite

scenery of Matlock Dale, howevsr, appears to moat
advantage when approached from the bridge near its
northern termination ; its beauties then succeeding
each other in a gradation which renders them more
impressive. A rampart of lime-stouo rock, covered
with yew-trees, elms, and limes, first attracts the at-
tention ; from the midst of which peeps the humble
church of Matlock. The interest of the scenery now
increases ; and the appearance of the High Tor,
rising to the height of 350 feet on the left of
the river, is extremely grand. The upper part
of this stupendous rock is naked, but the bottom
is covered with underwood of various foliage. At
the bottom of this eminence flows the river, the bed of
which has been formed by fragments that have
fallen from the rock ; a bed so broken that the wa-
ters roar over the masses which obstruct them with
surprising noise and rapidity. Heavy rains increase
the impetuosity of the current, and add to the sub-
limity of the view. Opposite the High Tor, at a
greater elevation, though with an ascent less steep,
stands Masson Hill, which appears like a pile of
immense craggs

" Another Pelion on another Ossa hurl'd."

The summit of Masson Hill has been named the
Heights of Abraham probably, froni its similarity
to the Heights of Abraham, near Quebec, rendered
memorable by the enterprise of the gallant Wolfe,
in the year 1759. Besides commanding a beautiful
bird's-eye view of nearly the whole dale, it overlooks
the country to a vast extent. Frem this point, even
the High Tor loses its sublimity. This, however, is
fully compensated by the variety of interesting ob-
jects included in the prospect. The height of this
eminence is about 750 feet ; the path to its summit
has been carried in a winding, or rather zigzag
direction, and in various places on each side has
been planted with rows of firs, which opening at
convenient distances, admit the eye to range over
the beautiful scenery beneath, from different points
of view. The romantic cliff' which forms the eastern
boundary of the dale, is seen to much advantage
from the Old Bath, where the river, receding in a
curve from the road, and a little strip of meadow,
rendered picturesque by three small buildings in the
cottage style, compose the fore-ground. This is
finely opposed and backed by a line of rock and
wood, a mass of trees rising to the right, and shut-
ting out for a short time all other features of the
scenery. On crossing the river near this spot, it
will be observed, that the natural beauties of the
place have received some improvements from art.
" Three paths are seen pointing through the wood
in different directions : one of them, called the
Lovers' Walk, has been carried along the margin of
the river, and is arched by the intermingled branches
of the trees which enclose it. The other pursues a
winding course to the summit of the rock, which is
attained with little difficulty, through the judicious
mode observed in forming the slopes, and placing
8 the

DERBYSHIRE.

of hedges, Ihe boundaries are all stone walls, from
three to five feet in height, formed of broken masses
of lime-stone, rudely piled upon each other -without
mortar, or any cementing materials. Near the inn,
a plantation of firs, and other hardy trees, has been
made. An annual fair is also held here for the sale
of cattle, horses, &c. and is very numerously at-
tended. At a little distance is a lead-mine, now
neglected, wherein rich specimens of wheat-stone,
or white ore of lead, have been frequently found.

NORBUIV*.] Norbm-y is situated in the hundred
of Applctree, five miles south-west by west from
Ashbornc. This manor was given to the ancient
family of the Fitx-Herberts, in the year 1125, by
William de Ferrers, Prior of Tutbury ; and has
continued iu their descendants to the present time.*
The last possessor of this estate was William Fit/-
Herbert, Esq. whose death was occasioned by im-
prudently venturing into a cold bath, after walking
from London to his residence at Norbury. The ce-
lebrated Mrs. Fitzherbert is the widow of this gen-
tleman. Amongst numerous memorials of the Fitz-
Herbert family, in the church, the following epitaphs
were formerly visible :

" An. CCCC seventy ami three
Yeres of our Lord passed in degree
The body tliat buried is under this stone
Of Nicliol Fitzherbert Lord and Patrone
Of Norbury with Alis the daughter of Henry Bothe
Eight sonnes and five daughters he had in sothe ;
Two sons and two daughters by Isabel his wife
So seventeen children he had in his life.
This church he made of his own expenca
In the joy of heaven be his recompence
And in inoone of November the nineteenth dey,
He bequeathed his soule to ererlasting jey."

" The dart of death that no man flee
Nay the common lawe of mortallitie
Hath demaurided to be buried here
The body of Raffi Fitzharbert, Squiere
Patrone of this church and of this tower Lord
The which deceased y cares of our Lord
14831.

Of March the second dey thus parted hee*
With him is layd upon this sepulture
F.lsabeth his wyfe bcgoii in sure
Daughter of John Marshall
Esq. Lord of Upton and of Sedfall.

* Several individuals of this family have been much cele-
brated for their learning, but none more so, than Sir Anthony
Fitzherbcrt, who presided as Judge in the Court of Common
Pleas in the reign of Henry the Eighth, and is reported to have
opposed Cardinal Wolsey in the plenitude of his power. He
was the author of various works, of which his Grand Abridge-
ment of the English Common Law, and New Natura Brevium,
are still in repute among the students in his profession. He
died in the year 153S, and was buried in Norbury Church.

f This person was born in the year 1726. His father (a far-
mer and maltster) was a severe man, who took little interest in
the welfare pf his children, consisting of three sons; neither
educating them, nor promoting their establishment in society.
They were, however, all prosperous. Jeclwliah, the second,
inamfes ed a strong passion for improvement, and, under every
possible disadvantage, acquired an eminent knowledge of science

\8)L, II. NO. 50.

Seven sonnes and eight daughters they had in fere
In this lyfe together whilst that they were,
Merciful Je.su that pitiest mankind,
In thy blysse graunt them a place to fync'e.

Prestes ambobus requiem Deus." . <.

NOIIMANTON.] This little village, situated in the
hundred of Repton and Gresley, two miles and a
half south from Derby, is entitled to notice, chiefly
as the birth-place of Jedediah Strutt, the ingenious
inventor of the machine for making ribbed stock-
ings, t

ODIN.] On the south of Mam Tor, and near the
bottom, is the ancient mine of Odin, which has pro-
bably been worked from the time of the Saxons, and
still employs nearly 140 persons. It consists of two
lovels : the upper a carl-gate, by which the ore is
conveyed from the mine ; the lower one, a water
level to drain the works. The thickness of the vein
of ore is various : it runs from ea*t to west, hading
to the south. In some places it has been found
sixty yards below the entrance, and in others as
much above. The quality of the ore varies in dif-
ferent parts of the mine : the best yields about three
ounces of silver to a ton of lead. The elastic bitu-
men, already mentioned, is obtained in this mine,
with blende, barytes, manganese, sulpmirct of iron,
fluor spar^aud a number of other minerals. Though
the level at the entrance of Odin mine is not more
than seven or eight feet from the surface of the
earth, it is said to be nearly 150 feet below it, at the
further extremity ; and it extends into the mountain
when; the Blue John is found. The two mines in
which that beautiful substance is procured, are nam-
ed the Tre-cliff and the Water-hull. The entrance
to the former is by an arched descent, conducted by
numerous steps to the depth of about 180 feet, where
the steps terminate ; but a confined, yet tolerably
easy path, leads into a opening about 90 feet
deeper. This forms the commencement of a range
of natural caverns, or fissures, in the bowels of the
mountain, the termination of which is unknown,
though they have been followed to an extent of
nearly three miles. Some beautiful snow-white sta-
lactite decorates several parts of these subterraneous
passages ; and beds of a very rich kind of red ochre,
are found amongst the productions of this singular
mountain.

and literature. In the year 1754, he took a farm at Blackwell,
near Nonnanton, and married. Learning from his wife's brother,
who was a hosier, and well acquainted with the stocking frame,
that some unsuccessful attempts had been made to manufacture
ribbed stockings upon it, his curiosity induced him to investi-
gate the operations of that machine, witn a view to effect what
others had vainly attempted. After the sacrilice of much time,
labour, and expence, he succeeded ; and, in conjunction with
his brother-in-law, obtained a patenl for (he invention, and re-
moved to Derby, where lit- established an extensive manufac-
ture of ribbed stockings, which has been carried on by himself
and partners, and by his sons, to the present time. Soon ;;fter
Mr. Strult's patent was obtained, another waa granted to Messrs.
Morris of Nottingham, for a machiHe on the same principle,
but applied to the making of silk-lace ; by which they acquired
a considerable fortune j and that business is now carried on to
T a very

7-2

DERBYSHIRE.

arc chiefly employed in combing and spinning jer-
gey, and working upon the stocking frames, near a
hundred of which machines are used in the parish.
A small manufactory of scythe stones is also carried
on here. The number of religious sects in this place
is remarkable ; and there are separate places of wor-
ship for Presbyterians, Calvinists, Baptists, and
Quakers.

MIDDI.ETON, STONEY.] This little village, hewn
out of the grey rocks which impended over it, and
scarcely distinguishable from them, is worth notice,
for its very neat octagon church, built partly by
brief, and partly by donation from the late Duke of
Devonshire. It is situated in the hundred of High
Peak, thirty miles north by west from Derby.

The inhabitants of Stoncy Middleton are chiefly
limestone-workers and miners. The valley, or ra-
ther chasm, near the entrance of which the village
stands, is called Middleton Dale, and continues in a
winding direction nearly two miles. Mr. Warner
observes, that the surrounding scenery is undeserv-
ing the distinction it has received, from a total ab-
sence both of beauty and sublimity. " Rocks un-
adorned with trees, or other verdant covering, ex-
clude the picturesque ; whilst their clumsy, heavy,
round forms, preclude the idea of grandeur. A
lively fancy may, indeed, paint to itself something
resembling castellated buildings, or rude fortresses,
in the perpendicular crags, which in some places,
rise to the height of four hundred feet ; and th;
turnings of the dale are so sharp, as occasionally to

five the idea of all further progress being prevented
y the opposition of an insurmountable barrier of
precipitous rock. Its character, therefore, is rather
singularity, than magnificence or loveliness." It
has been supposed, that some convulsion of nature
rent these rocks asunder ; and this idea is somewhat
confirmed as the veins of lead ore correspond on each
side. The surrounding country is barren, wild, and
dreary.

MONEYASH.] Moneyash, formerly Mqniax, is a
chapelry to Bakewell, five miles west by south from
that town. William de Lynford, who held the ma-
nor in the reign of Edward III. had a grant of a
market and fair, in reward for the good services he
had performed for the King in Scotland ; but the
place is now very poor, and the market and fair
have been long discontinued. At the distance of a
mile and a half, in a narrow dale, which presents
some pleasant scenery, are the quarries where much
of the Derbyshire marble is obtained.

MONSAL DALE.] The scenery of Monsal Dale, a
sequestered retreat in the vicinity of Tideswell, is
eminently interesting. In some places it is delight-
fully romantic ; hut its general character is pictu-
resque beauty. At the entrance of the dale the
Wye plays round the feet of high and jutting rocks,
the appearance of which at a distance is that oi
strong and lofty towers. Lower down, the dale ex-
pands, and the eye. is delighted with the rich and
yerdant prospects which presents itself. The banks

>n each side are diversified with woods, which ex-
end down in many places to the margin of the
iver. In other parts the grey colour of the rocks
ppear, but delightfully harmonised by the various
shades of shrubs, underwood, and green turf. Fur-
her on, the dale spreads wider ; the stream winds
gently through fertile fields, ornamented by farms,
)icturesque cottages, wood, bridges, and projecting
oeks. A steep precipice, partially covered with
H'ushwood and herbage, forms a noble back-ground,
he continuity of whose surface is broken by num-
jerless bold fragments. The view which meets the
sight from the eminence, when looking back upon
the dale, is one of the most beautiful in nature.
Wood, water, and rock are so happily united ; while
the luxuriant meadows directly below the eye, are
contrasted with the barren heights on each side,
that imagination can scarcely pourtray a scene more
lovely. At some little distance from the point
where the course of the river is concealed by a pro-
jecting hill, its waters form a natural and agreeable
cascade.

The " Great Finn," as it is called, situated on
the summit of the eminence which overlooks Monsal
Dale, was a large barrow, about thirty yards in cir-
cumference, chiefly composed of broken masses of
lime-stone, to obtain which, twenty years ago, the
barrow was destroyed. Various skeletons were dis-
covered therein, as well as several urns of coarse
clay, slightly baked, containing burnt bones, ashes,
beaks of birds, &c. Two of the skeletons were of
gigantic size, and lay in opposite directions, with
their feet pointing to an urn placed between them.
In one part, at the bottom, was a cavity cut in the
solid rook, (thirty-three inches broad, and twenty-
five in depth,) wherein lay the bones of a skeleton
with the face downward ; and on the top of the
skull, where it appeared to have been fixed by a
strong cement, a piece of black Derbyshire marble,
dressed, two feet in length, nine inches broad, and
six inches thich : under the head were two small
arrow-heads of flint. In another cavity formed in
the soil, with flat stones at the sides and bottom,
were ashes and burnt bones. A^ spear-head, and
some other memorials of ancient customs, were also
found here. Excepting on the side next the preci-
pice, the summit of the Great Finn is surrounded
by a double ditch. Mr. Hayman Rooke imagines
this barrow to have been of very remote antiquity ;
arrow-heads of flint, being evidences of the people
not in the use of malleable metal.

NEWHAVEN.] On the turnpike-road, nine miles
north by west from Ashborne, on the way to Buxton,
stands Newhaven, a large, handsome, and commo-
dious inn, which was erected by the Duke of De-
vonshire, about twenty years ago. The country is
very bleak and open, and was formerly a barren
waste ; but a recent bill of enclosure has effected
great improvement. Several hundred acres are now
in cultivation. The enclosures have a strange ap-
pearance to a stranger from the south, as, instead

DERBYSHIRE.

of hedges, ihe boundaries arc all stone walls, from
three to five feet in height, formed of broken masses
01 lime-stone, rudely piled upon each other without
mortar, or any cementing materials. Near the inn,
a plantation of firs, and other hardy trees, has been
made. An annual fair is also held here for the sale
of cattle, horses, &c. and is very numerously at-
tended. At a little distance is a lead-mine, now
neglected, wherein rich specimens of wheat-stone,
or white ore of lead, have been frequently found.

NOIIBURY.] Norbni-y is situated in the hundred
of Appletree, five miles south-west by west from
Ashhonie. This manor was given to the ancient
family of the Fitx-Herberts, in the year 1125, by
William de Ferrers, Prior of Tutbury ; and has
continued in their descendants to the present time.*
The last possessor of this estate was William Fitz-
Herbert, Esq. whose death was occasioned by im-
prudently venturing into a cold bath, after walking
from London to his residence at Norbury. The ce-
lebrated Mrs. Fitzherbert is the widow of this gen-
tleman. Amongst numerous memorials of the Fitz-
Herbert family, in the church, the following epitaphs
were formerly visible :

" An. CCCC seventy and three
Yeres of our Lord pasted in degree
The body that buried is under this stone
Of Nichol Fitisherbert Lord and Patrone
Of Norbury with Alis the daughter of Henry Bothe
Eight sonnes and five daughters he had in sothe ;
Two sons and two daughters by Isabel his wife
So seventeen children he had in liis life.
1 his church he made of his own expence
Jn the joy of heaven be his recompence
And in inoone of November the nineteenth dey,
He bequeathed his soute to everlasting jey."

" The dart of death that no man flee
Nay the common lawe of mortallitie
Hath demaunded to be buried here
The body of Rafc Fitzharbert, Squiere
Patrone of this church and of this tower Lord
The, which deceased yeares of our Lord

Of March the second dey thus parted lice*
VV ith him is layd upon this sepulture
Elsabetb his wyfe begoii in sure
Daughter of John Marshall
Esq. Lord of Upton and of Sedfall.

* Several individuals of this family have been much cele
orated for their learning, but none more so, than Sir Anthony
JMtzherbert, who presided as Judge in the Court of Common
rieas in the reign of Henry the Eighth, and is reported to have
opposed Cardinal Wolsey in the plenitude of his power. He
was the author of various works, of which his Grand Abridge-
ment ol the English Common Law, and New Natura Brevium
are still in repute among the students in his profession. lie
died m the year 1533, and was buried in Norbury Church.

I his person was born in the year 1726. His father (a far-
ner and maltster) was a severe man, who took little interest in
the welfare of his children, consisting of three sons; neither
educating ihem, nor promoting their establishment in societv
They were, however, all prosperous. Jedt-diah, the second'
jnamtes ed a strong passion for improvement, and, under every

possible disadvantage, acquired an eminent knowledge of science
\&L. II. NO. 50.

Seven sonnes aiid eight daughters they had in fere
In thii lyfe together whilst that they were,
Merciful Jesu that pitiest mankind,
In thy blysse graunt them a place to fynde.
Prestes ambobus requiem Deus."

NOBMANTON.] This little village, situated in the
hundred of Reptou and Gresley, two miles and a
half south from Derby, is entitled to notice, chiefly
as the birth-place of Jedediah 8trutt, the ingenious
inventor of the machine for making ribbed stock-
ings, f

ODIN.] On the south of Mam Tor, and near the
bottom, is the ancient mine of Odin, which lias pro-
bably been worked from the time of the Saxons, and
still employs nearly 140 persons. It consists of two
levels : the upper a carl-gate, by which the ore is
conveyed from the mine; the lower one, a water
level to drain the works. The thickness of the vein
of ore is various : it runs from east to west, hading
to the south. In some places it has been found
sixty yards below the entrance, and in others as
much above. The quality of the ore varies in dif-
ferent parts of the mine : the best yields about three
ounces of silver to a ton of lead. Tha clastic bitu-
men, already mentioned, is obtained in tins mine,
with blende, barytes, manganese, sulphuret of iron,
fluor spar^and a numbor of other minerals. Though
the level at the entrance of Odin mine is not more
than seven or eight feet from the surface of the
earth, it is said to be nearly -150 feet below it, at the
further extremity ; and it extends into the mountain
where; the Blue John is found. The two mines in
which that beautiful substance is procured, are nam-
ed the Tre-cliff and the Water-hull. The entrance
to the former is by an arched descent, conducted by
numerous steps to the depth of about 180 feet, where
the steps terminate ; but a confined, yet tolerably
easy path, leads into an opening about 90 feet
deeper. This forms the commencement of a range
of natural caverns, or fissures, in the bowels of the
mountain, the termination of which is unknown,
though they have been followed to an extent of
nearly three miles. Home beautiful snow-white sta-
lactite decorates several parts of these subterraneous
passages ; and beds of a very rich kind of red ochre,
are found amongst the productions of this singular
mountain.

and literature. In the year 1754, he took a farm at Blackwell,
near Normanton, and married. Learning from his wife's brother,
who v.as a hosier, and well acquainted with the stocking frame,
that some unsuccessful attempts had been made to manufacture
ribbed stockings upon it, his curiosity induced him to investi-
gate the operations of that machine, "with a view to effect what
others had vainly attempted. After the sacriiice of much time,
labour, and expence, he succeeded ; and, in conjunction with
his brother-in-law, obtained a patent for ihe invention, and re-
moved to Derby, where he- established an extensive manufac-
ture of ribbed stockings, which has been carried on by himself'
and (Winers, and by his sons, to the pit-sent time. Soon after
Mr. btrult's patent was obtained, another was granted to Messrs.
Morris of Nottingham, for a machine on the same principle'
but applied to Ihe making of silk-lace ; by which they acquired
a considerable fortune ; and that business is now carried on to
"f a very

DERBYSHIRE.

OSMASTON.] At the -village of Osmaston, situat-
ed in the hundred of Reptou and Gresley, two miles
and a half south-east from Derby, is the seat of Sir
Robert Wilmot, the descendant of a younger branch
of the Wilmots of Chaddesden. The estate has
teen in the possession of this family about two hun-
dred years. The house was erected in the year
1696, partly of brick, and partly stone ; but the
brick-work has since been stuccoed. It has two
fronts : that to the south measures 192 feet in
length ; that to the north 217 : the latter has a very
handsome appearance when seen from the London
road, which passes within half a mile of the man-
sion. This building is furnished with a well-chosen
library, and is decorated with a variety of paint-
ings.

In the Hall are original whole length portraits,
but coloured in a hard, dry style, of Philip the Se-
cond, of Spain, with a distant view of the Escurial
in the back-ground ; Christian the Fourth, King of
Denmark ; Amedius, Duke of Savoy ; and Mon-
seigneur de Soubizc.

In the Library is an extremely fine painting of
the meeting of Hector and Andromache at the Sccean
Gate, by Cignaroti ; nine feet in length, by seven
feet high, designed from the following description
in the Iliad :

With haste to meet him, sprung the joyful fair,
His blameless wife, Action's worthy heir:
The nurse stood near, in whose embraces prest,
His only hope hung smiling at her breast,
Whom each soft charm, and early grace adorn,
Fair as the new-born star that gilds the morn.

Silent the warrior smil'd, and pleas'd resign' d
To tender pussions all his mighty mind.
His beauteous princess cast a mournful look,
Hung on his hand, and then dejected spoke;
Her bosom labor 1 cl with a boding sigh,
And the big tear stood trembling in her eye.

Ferdinand the Second, Grand Duke of Etruria,
and the Princess Urbini, his Duchess ; original half
lengths : artists unknown. Charles the First ; old
Stone ; half length. Lady Wilmot ; half length.
Maurice, Prince of Orange ; Vandyck : whole
length. This is an exceedingly beautiful portrait ;
the relief obtained by the colouring almost war-
ranting the use of the word magical in describ-
ing it.

a very great extent. The principle of the invention has also
been applied to a variety of work of different kinds. About
the year 1771, Mr. Strutt entered into partnership with Sir
Richard Arkwright, wlio was then engaged in the invention of
his incomparable machinery for spinning, and which was soon
afler completed. But though the most excellent yarn, or twist,
was produced, the manufacturers could not be prevailed upon
to weave it into callicoes. Mr. Strutt, therefore, in conjunc-
tion with Mr. Samuel Xeed, another partner, attempted the
manufacture of this article in the year 1773, and proved suc-
cessful. However, after a large quantity of callicoes had been
made, it was discovered, that they were subject to double the
duty (viz. sixpence per yard) of cottons with linen warp, and

The following paintings, with several others, a*
in the south Drawing-Room. The Adoration of th*
Magi, by Bassano ; in which original portraits of
Henry the Fourth of France, and his Minister the

j Duke de Sully are introduced, by Giacomo Bassan.
The Repose; by Julio Romano. The Incredulity
of St. Thomas ; Andrea Del Sarto. Rubens' Wife ;
Rubens. A Vintage ; T. Bassan. The Finding of
Moses ; Paolo Veronese. A Female Peasant ; Hon-
thurst. A Prize Landscape ; Smith of Chichester.
View of Vesuvius, and a Morning Scene ; Wright.
A small Autumnal Scene ; Turner. Sketch of a

i Lion-Hunting ; Rubens.

I In the Tapestry-Room is a Cleopatra, with an
attendant holding a vase supposed to contain the

i asp ; by Ludivico Caracci ; and an original half-
length of Cecil, Lord Wimbolton.

In the north Drawing-Room is a piece, contain-
ing whole length figures of Charles the First, his

i Queen, and their sons, the Dukes of York, and

| Gloucester ; Vandyck. A small original portrait of
Louis the Fourteenth when an infant, closely en-
wrapped in swaddling clothes. The Duchess of
Braganza, sister to Maurice, Prince of Orange ;
Vandyck. The Birth of Venus ; Paduanino ; and
its companion, an Emblematical Picture of the Four
Elements ; Cav. Lebiri. Soldiers playing with Dice
in a Guard-Room ; Ann. Caracci. A Sea Piece,
painted for Charles the First ; VV. Vandervelt.

The grounds of this estate were laid out by Ernes ;
and though not remarkably beautiful, are very plea-
sant. The estate is tolerably well wooded ; and the
vicinity of the house has been improved by an orna-
mental fish-pond, and pleasure ground.

PARWICH.]- Parwich lies in the Wapentake of
Wirksworth, six miles north by cast from Ashborne.
At the Conquest, it was a royal manor ; and it pass-
ed with Wirksworth, till the time of Charles the
First. Here was a subordinate, but more valuable
manor, which belonged to the Fitz-Herberts of Nor-
bury, and afterwards to the Cokaines of Ashborne.
In the reign of James the First, it was purchased
by the family of Levinge, in which, we believe, it
still remains.

At Lombard's Green, a place about half a mile
north-east of Parwich, are some vestiges of an an-
cient encampment, which occupied a level piece of
ground near the summit of a lofty eminence. It is
supposed to have been a Roman camp. Some years

when printed, were prohibited. They had, therefore, no re-
source but to ask relief of the legislature, which after
great expence, and a strong opposition of the Lancashire ma-
nufacturers, they succeeded in obtaining. This manufacture
lias also been continued by Mr. Strutt and his family to the
present period, and is now one of the most important in the
kingdom. In the year 1775 he began to erect the cotton works
at Belpar and Milltord ; but his health declining, he removed
to Derby, where he died surrounded by his family, in the year
1797. At Thurlston Grange, the residence of Samuel Fox,
Es<[. is a fine portrait, by VV right, of this eminent Mechanic,
whose daughter that gentleman married.

* go,

DERBYSHIRE.

ago, at the depth of two feet and a half, was founc
iwm litary weapon, a considerable number of coins
and an urn of great thickness, in which the coin!
had probably been deposited.

POOLE'S HOLE.] About a mile westward of Bux-
ton, at the foot of the lime-stone hills termed Coy
Mosse, is a fissure, or cavern, called Poole's Hole
from an ancient tradition, that an outlaw, named
Poole, once made it his residence. It opens with a
crevice so low and contracted, that the visitant is
obliged to proceed with caution in a stooping pos-
ture between 70 and 80 feet, when, says Warner,
the passage widens into a spacious vacuity, " from
whose roof depends a quantity of stalactite, pro-
duced by the droppings of water laden with calca-
reous matter. Part of this substance adheres to the
roof, and forms gradually those pendant spiral
masses called stalactites, or (locally) water-icles :
another portion drops with the water to the ground,
and attaching itselt to the floor, is there deposited,
and becomes the stalagmite, a lumpy mass of the
same matter. One of the former, of immense side,
called the Flitch of Bacon, occurs about the middle
of the cavern, which here becomes very narrow ; but,
after a short space, spreads again to a greater width,
and continues large and lofty till we reach another
surprisingly large mass of stalactite, to which the
name of Mary Queen of Scots' Pillar, is attached,
from the tradition of that Queen having made a visit
to the cavern, and advanced thus far into its re-
cesses." As this pillar cannot be passed without
some difficulty, few people venture beyond it : in-
deed, the remaining part of the cavern offers little to
repay the fatigue of exploring it. The passage con-
tracts, and for some, yards it is necessary to descend
by very slippery and craggy steps. Having passed
these, the path continues nearly on a level for 50 or
60 feet, when an almost perpendicular ascent com-
mences, which leads to the extremity of the fissure,
through the Eye of St. Anthony's Needle, a narrow
strait, beyond which, the steepness of the way is
only to be surmounted by clambering over irregular
masses of rock. "The cavern terminates at about
280 feet beyond the Queen of Scots' Pillar : near
the end is an aperture through a projection of the
rock, behind which a candle is generally placed
when any person has ventured to the extremity :
when seen from the bottom of the cavern, this as-
sumes the appearance of a star. On returning, the
stranger is conducted by a way that passes beneath
a considerable portion of the road by which he en-
tered. In one part of this passage is a fine spring
of transparent water. The various masses of sta-
lactitic matter that are met with in this excavation,
are distinguished by different names, according to
the objects which they are supposed to resemble.
Poole's Saddle, his Turtle, and his Woolsack, the
Lion, the Lady's Toilet, Pillion, and Curtain, and

* The forms of these masses are continually varying from

a variety of others, with appellations bestowed from
a real or fancied likeness to the things themselves,
are all pointed out by the guides.*

The money given by visitants is divided among
ten aged women, who reside here, and act as guides
by the permission of the Duke of Devonshire.. The
extent of the cavern is about 300 yards. The lime-
stone in this neighbourhood is of several kinds,
though chiefly applied to the making of lime, many
hundred tons of which are here burnt annually. The
workmen and their families, reside in caves, scooped
out of the hillocks, formed with the Muse from the
lime-kilns. The crust of these heaps of rubbish,
consolidated by time and the weather, is impervious
to the rain, and forms a substantial roof. Each ha-
bitation contains two or three rooms ; but few have
any other light than is admitted through the chim-
ney and door-way. These humble residences of men.
are denominated the " Ass-Hillocks."

RADBOURN.] The village of Radhoiirn is situated
in the hundred of Appletree, four miles and a half
west from Derby. It has been the seat of several
wealthy and respectable families ; and appears to
have descended, by marriage, from that of Chandos
to Pole, its present possessors. The ancient man-
sion, which stood near the church, is now in ruins ;
the present house was built by German Pole, Esq.
about 00 or 70 years ago, and stands on a pleasant
and elevated situation, commanding some fine pros-
pects.

REPTON.] Rcpton, a village celebrated by anti-
quaries as the head of th Saxon kingdom of Mer-
cia, and the burial-place of several of the Sovereigns,
s situated on the declivity of a hill, in the hundred
of Repton and Gresley, seven miles south-west by
south from Derby. The prospects which it com-
mands are animated by the beautiful meanderings of
the river Trent. Repton is said to have been an
ancient colony of the Romans, called Repandunum ;
>ut, though its origin is unquestionably remote, there
are no memorials to prove that it was founded by
hat people. By the Saxons it was named Hreopan-r
dune ; and, in ancient deeds, it has also been called
Heppendune, Rapandon, Repindon, &c. A noble
monastery for religious men and women, under the
government of an abbess, appears to have been esta-
)lished here previously -to the year 660. It was af-
erwards destroyed by the Danes ; but, having been
refonnded in 117-2, by Matilda, widow of Ranulph,
second Earl of Chester, it continued till the Disso-
ution. Amongst the Kings of Mercia recorded to
jave been interred in the original structure, were
VIeruwala, and Ethelbald the First: the latter was
slain by ne of his own chieftains, after an attempt
o march into Wessex, in which he was opposed by
2uthred, with all his forces, and drived back to
Sceaduue, near Tamworth, where the Mercians were
outed, after a. decisive battle. Kyuechardus, bro-

lie depositions left by the water, which constantly percolates
lirough the roo, and sides of the lock.

tlier

7(5

DERBYSHIRE.

thrr to Sigebert, 'Kuig of the West Saxons, was also
buried here. Burthfcd, the las King- of the Mer-
cians, who purchased an iusfoarc peace of the Danes,
by solicitations and bribery", was here, at length, ex-
pelled froiii his throne, after a troublesome reign of
twenty-two years. His kingdom was then ravaged;
and Repton, with its palace and priory, was laid in
ruins ; in which state it probably remained till the
time of the Domesday Survey, when the manor was
part of the King's lands. Soon afterwards, it be-
longed to the Earls of Chester. On the renewal of
the priory by Matilda, she dedicated it to the honour
of God, the Blessed Mary, and the Holy Trinity, and
translated hither the black canons who had been pre-
viously settled at Calke. She endowed it with the
tythe'S of Repton, and of its hamlets, Newton, Mil-
ton, Foremark, Ingleby, Tykeuhall, Smythesby, and
Meysham, and with other lands in the parish to a
great extent ; to which were added Batlow, in Es-
ex, and some lands at Gransden, in Huntingdon-
shire. At the Dissolution, its revenues were esti-
. mated at 167/. 18s. 2^7. In the thirty-second of
Henry the Eighth, the priory, and its possessions at
Repton, were vested in Thomas Thacker, Esq. ser-
vant to that Monarch ; in whose family it continued
till the reign of Anne, when the property was divided
between two co-heiresses ; the elder of whom con-
veyed her share to the Stanhopes of Elvaston ; but
the younger, at her death, in 1728, devised her part
to Sir Robert Burdett, Bart, of Foremark, whose
grandson, Sir Francis, is now the proprietor. The
site of the priory, and the mansion now occupied as
the house of the head master of Repton school, are
included in the possessions of the latter.

This village is composed principally of one street
of scattered houses, extending from north to south,
about a mile in length : it has a brisk trout stream
running by it, which flows into the Trent. At the
lower part of the village, pleasantly elevated above
the meadows, stands the church, a large handsome
structure, ornamented with an elegant and lofty
spire, which forms a very beautiful and distinguished
object. This is said to be the third church that has
stood uj)on this spot. It has evidently been erected
at two different periods : by the style of the windows
and arches, the nave and side aisles appear to be of
the reign of Edward the Third ; but the chancel is
certainly more ancient. The arches which divide
the nave from the aisles are pointed, excepting the
two that adjoin the chancel, which are circular.
Beneath the chancel is an ancient crypt, supported
by two rows of round Saxon wreathed pillars, with
passages at each corner of the west end, leading into
the church, and another on the north. It resembles
the crypt under the church of St. Peter's in the East,
mt Oxford, which was supposed to have been erected
by Grymbald, one of the first professors at Oxford,
in Alfred's reign ; and, as Grymbald's crypt, arid

* Sfime particulars of this ctisr jvery were published by Dr.
S. P^ggCj in tiie Philosoplrcal Transactions for the jeur 1734.

that under Canterbury Cathedral, resemble this, it
may be deemed of the same antiquity. About thirty
years ago, the interior of the church underwent u
thorough repair. It contains a few handsome mo-
numents ; and several belonging t the Thacker fa-
mily, in a tolerably good state.

Not far from the church-yard, may be traced
many foundations of buildings leading to the north
end, and joining the priory ; and in a close near the
church, in the reign of William and Mary, a la-
bourer discovered a cemetery, containing, amongst
many other human skeletons, one of an extraordinary
size, measuring nine feet.* In the area before the
church is an old stone cross, consisting of eight oc-
tagonal steps, terminating in a column ; and a large
plain pointed arch, or gateway, leading into the
priory, or school-yard. On the east side of this
enclosure are the remains of the priory, which have
been converted into a school, with habitations at
each end, for the upper master and first usher. The
school was founded in pursuance of the will of Sir
John Port, of Etwell, Knight, who, by grant of
Henry the Eighth, was possessed of several estates
belonging to the priory, and in 1556 devised certain,
lands and tenements for the foundation of a gram-
mar-school at Repton, and hospital at Etwell. His
executors purchased of Gilbert Thacker, Esq. part
of the priory, and fitted it up for the reception of the
scholars, and residence of a master and usher. By
James the First, the master and poor men of Etwell
hospital, with the school-master, ushers, and poor
scholars of Repton, were incorporated : and the ap-
pointments, and hereditary government of these
foundations, vested in the families of the Earls

Chesterfield and Moira, and Gerrard, Bart.

The school-room, as appears from the windows, and
other traces, was the refectory or hall of the priory.
It is supported by a row of strong round Saxon
pillars, evidently of ancient date, which formerly
extended to the end of the priory ; but several wer
removed a few years ago, when some alterations
were made in the house of the first usher. The
dormitory was at the north end of the hall ; and OH
the east side was situated the cloisters, the area of
which has been converted into a garden for the mas-
ter. Adjoining to the cloisters stood the priory
church, which, from the remains that have been oc-
casionally laid open, appears to have been an elegant
fabric, supported by pillars of alabaster, extending
180 feet and upwards from the school building-.
This structure was demolished in the beginning of
Queen Mary's reign : its destruction is thus related
in Fuller's Church History : " I must not forget
how oue Thacker, being possessed of Repingdon
Abbey, alarmed with the news that Queen Mary had
set up the abbies again (and fearing how large a
reach such a precedent might have) upon a Sunday,
(belike the better day, the better deed,) called toge-

ther

DERBYSHIRE.

the carpenters and masons of that county, and
plucked down in one day (church work is a cripple
in going up, but rides post in coming down) a most
beautiful church belonging thereunto, saying, " He
would destroy the nest, for fear the birds should
build there again." In the adjoining orchard, are
the foundations of the other buildings of the priory,
which may he plainly traced in various directions.
At the north end of the priory-yard, on the bank of
a piece of water called the Old Trent, is a mansion
that was built by the Thackers about a century ago,
upon the foundations of the Prior's lodgings, and
which, for some years past, has been appropriated
for the residence of the head master. This house
exhibits, towards the water, a curious brick tower,
with battlements, and an ornamental cornice, of the
date of Henry the Sixth. The population of Rep-
ton, as returned under the Act of 181], was
1618.

RISLEY.] This village is situated in the hundred
of Morleston and Litchurch, seven miles and a half
east by south from Derby. The manor was grant-
ed, in the reign of Edward the Third, to Geffrey,
son of Roger Mortimer, Earl of March : it was af-
terwards the property of the Lords Sheffield, an-
cestors <o the Duke of Buckingham ; and of them it
was purchased by the Willoughbys of Risley in the
year 1587. Of this family (now extinct) was the
celebrated navigator Sir Hugh Willoughby, whose
melancholy fate, whilst seeking for a north-east
passage, in the reign of Elizabeth, is pathetically
described in Thomson's Seasons.* Near the site of
the ancient house, in Risley Park, a large silver
dish, or salver, of antique basso relievo, and of Ro-
man workmanship, was found in the year 17-29. It

* " Here Winter holds his unrejoicing court ;
And through his airy hall, the loud misrule
Of driving tempest is for ever heard :
Here the grim tyrant meditates his wrath ;
Here arms his winds with all subduing frost ;
Moulds his fierce hail, and treasures up his snows.
With which he now oppresses half the globe."

" Miserable they

Who here, entangled in the gath'ring ice,
Take their last look at the descending sun :
While full of death, and fierce with ton-fold frost,
The long, long night, incumbent o'er their heads,
Falls horrible. Such was the Briton's fate
As with first prow (what have not Britons dar'd ?)
He for the passage sought, attempted since
So much in vain, and seeming to be
By jealous nature with eternal bars.
In these lell regrtms, in Arzina caught,
And to the stony deep, his idle ship
Immediately seal'd, he, with his hapless crew.
Each full exerted to his sev'ral ta-k,
Froze in'o statues ; to the cordage glu'd
The sailor, and the pilot to the helm."

Tn the year 1553, Sir Hugh Willoughby was appointed com-
mander of a squadron of three ship?, lilted out for discoveries
in the Northern Part of the World, by a company of British
Merchants. The next in command was Kichard Chancelar, a
man of considerable ab'.i.iies. Previously to their sailing,

VOL. II. KO. 51.

was twenty inclies long, fifteen^broad; and weighed
seven pounds? Upon the face were various .figures,
representing rural sportSj employments, and -reli-
gious rites. It stood upp'fi asqtiare basis, or foot ;
and round the bottom, and on the outside, this in-
scription was rudely cut in Roman characters #f the
fourth century : " Exsvperivs episcopvs ecclesiaj
Bogiensi dedit." Intimating, that it had been " gi-
ven by Epicurius, Bishop of Bayeux and Toulouse
in the year 405, to the church of Bouges." A bat-
tle was fought near Bouges, in 1 121, between the
Scots, under the Duke d'Alenson, who was quarter-
ed in the church, and the English", under Thomas,
Duke of Clarence, brother to Henry the Fifth, who
was slain there. At this time the salver is supposed
to have been brought from the church as a trophy,
and given to Dale Abbey.

About four miles south of this village is Caven-
dish Bridge, named from the Devonshire family, who
substituted it for an inconvenient ferry over the
Trent near this spot. It is a handsome structure of
three arches, composed of free-stone : it unites thcr
counties of Leicester and Derby. The great Staf-
fordshire navigation, or Grand Turk Canal, falls
into the Trent near this bridge, and, by its various
connecting branches, facilitates the mnoval of goods
to almost every part of the kingdom. Some good
houses have been erected here by the gentlemen-
having the direction of the wharf, which, with other
buildings raised near them, pass under the general
name of Cavendish Bridge.

SHIPLEY.] Shipley, in the hundred of Morleston
and Litchurch, nine miles and a half north-east by-
cast from Derby, was the seat of the Vavasours, and
afterwards of the Strclleys, one of whom was uiar-

whirli took place about the latter end of May, Sir Hugh pro-
posed that it by any accident they should be separated, every
ship should make for the harbour of Warehouse in Norway.
They had proceeded but a little way in their vo\age, when so
sudden anil violent a tempest occurred as prevented the vessels
Irom keeping their intended course, and tile Admiral was sepa-
rated from the ship which Chancelar commanded. Sir Hugh
Willoughby then attempted to sail for Wardhouse, but was
driven by the tempest to a considerable distance towards the
north. I' rom the 8th of August to the 16th of September, they
were tossed up and down, the spoil of winds and waves, with-
out being able to discover hind, but on.the 17lh they anchored
in an excellent harbour. From this place they Dispatched men
in different directions to discover the inhabitants but they ic-
tunu'd unsuccessful, the only possessors of the country being
bears, fleer, foxes, and a number of other animals. Not daring
to venture out, the Admiral determined to winter in this har-
bour: how long he and his crew continued alive is uncertain ;
hut, in the succeeding summer, they were discovered, by some
Russian fishermen, all frozen to death. The place when this
calamitous event occurred is near Reger, in Lapland. The
voyage of Chancelar was more fortunate. On finding himse f
separated from the other ships, he proceeded, according to the
arrangement, to Wardhouse, where he waited some day* in
expectation of the arrival of the commander, but us he dil not
appear, Chancelar continued his course eastward, and at last
reached Muscovy ; hence he relumed bringing presents from
the Emperor of Russia to Edward VI.

v ried

DERBYSHIRE.

ried to the heiress of Vavasour. In the time of
Charles II. it was possessed by Sir Edward Locke,
Kut. Master in Chancery, whose heiress married to
Miller, and the heiress of Miller to Edward Mundy,
Esq. (a younger branch of the Mundys of Mark-
eaton) in whose family it remains.

SHIRLAND.] Shirland, in the hundred of Scars-
dale, two miles and a half north by west from All're-
ton, is an old residence of the Lords Grey de Wil-
ton. It was sold to Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury,
about Edward the Fourth's time ; and upwards of a
century afterwards, it was divided amongst the heirs
general of that family. In the church is a monu-
ment of the Lords Cirey, of the time of Edward the
Third. *

SHIRLEY.] Shirley, in the hundred of Applet ree,
four miles and a half south-east by south from Ash-
borne, was the residence of the Etendon family, who
assumed the name of Shirley in the reign of Henry
the Third, when James Shirley had free warren
granted him in all his demesne lands in this place.
The manor subsequently passed to the late Earl
Ferrers, who disposed of the farms, of which it con-
sisted, to separate purchasers.

SNITTERTON.] In this village, situated in the
Wapentake of Wirksworth, two miles west by north
from Matlock, stands Snitterton Hall, a curious old
mansion, of stone, formerly the property of the Sa-
chcverels. It stands near the summit of a hill, west
of the Derwent. The front has two projecting
wings, with pointed gables, embattled sides, and
square bayed windows. The entrance is on one
side of the building-, which is wholly enclosed within
high walls.

SPEEDWELL LEVEL.} -"-Speedwell Level, or Navi-
gation Mine, which strongly claims the notice of vi-
sitors, is situated near the foot of the Winnets, in
the mountainous range called the Long Cliff. This
level was originally driven in search of lead ore, by
a company of adventurers from Staffordshire, who
commenced their undertaking about forty years ago,
but with such little success, that, after an expendi-
ture of 14,000/. and eleven years unremitting but
fruitless labour, the works were obliged to be aban-
doned. The descent is beneath an arched vault, by
a flight of 100 steps, which leads to the sough, or
level, where a boat is ready for the reception of the
visitor, who is impelled along the stream by the mo-
tion communicated to the boat by the guide. The
depth of the water is about three feet : the channel
through which it proceeds was blasted through the
heart of the rock, which was found of such solidity
and hardness, that implements of sufficient temper
could hardly be obtained to penetrate it. As the
boat proceeds, several veins of lead ore may be ob->
served in the rock, but of insufficient value to defray
the expence of working them.

At the distance ot"650 yards from the entrance,
the level bursts into a tremendous gulph, whose
roof and bottom are completely visible ; but across
which the navigation has been carried, by throwing

a strong arch over a part of the fissure where the
rocks are least separated. Leaving the boat, and
ascending a stage erected above the level, the atten-
tion of the visitor is here directed to the dark recesses
of the abyss beneath his feet ; and firm, indeed, must
be his resolution, if he can contemplate its depths
unmoved. To the depth of ninety feet, all is vacuity
and gloom ; but beyond that commences a pool of
Stygian waters, named the Bottdmless Pit : its pro-
digious range may in 'some measure be conceived,
i from the circumstance of its having swallowed up
more than 40,000 tons of rubbish made in blasting
the rock, without any apparent diminution either in,
i its depth, or extent. Its actual depth in standing
I water is about 320 feet. This abyss is thought to com-
| municate with others, more deeply situated in the
; bowels of the mountain, into which the precipitated
| rubbish has found a passage. The superfluous wa-
| ter of the level falls through a water-gate into this
j profound cauldron, with a_noise like a rushing tor-
rent. This fissure is calculated at being nearly 280
yards below the surface of the mountain ; and so
great is its reach upwards, that rodkets of sufficient
strength to ascend 450 feet, have been fired without
rendering .the roof visible. The effect of a Bengal
light, exploded in this stupendous cavity, is exceed-
ingly magnificent and interesting. Beyond the fis-
sure, the level has been driven to a similar length to
that part which precedes it ; but in this division of
its course, little occurs to excite attention.

STADEN-LOW.] This is a little hill, situated
about a mile from Buxton, between that town and
Chelmorton. Near this spot are the remains of
some ancient earth-works, which Dr. Stukeley has
noticed in the second volume of his Itinerary. Since
his time the ground has been enclosed and cultivat-
ed, but sufficient vestiges may be distinguished to
ascertain the form of these memorials of antiquity.
They consist of two divisions ; one of which is sup-
posed to have been the place for shows. On the
north side of Staden-low is a romantic and beautiful
dale, between two and three miles in length, through
which flows the river Wye, bounded on each side by
elevated rocks, so near together, that, for a consi-
derable space, there is scarcely more room than for
the passage of the water ; some of them are perpen-
dicular, and completely bare of vegetation ; others
are covered with ivy, yew, and ash-wood, but have
a craggy steep occasionally starting through the
Verdure. The whole dale bears the name of The
Lover's Leap, from a vast precipice which forms
one side of a narrow chasm, broken from the main
rift nearly at right angles ; and from the summit of
which a love-lorn female is reported to have thrown
herself. At the- southern extremity the scenery as-
sumes a milder character ; and the hollow takes the
appellation of Mill-Dale, from a mill which is turned
by the stream, and, in conjunction with a rude
bridge, a mountain path, and other accompaniments,
composes a very picturesque view. Another fine
scene is formed by a lofty rock, called Swallow Tor,
8 ' which

DERBYSHIRE.

which soars over a mass of wood, and has the river
roaring at its base over broken masses of lime-stone
rock.

STANHOPE-LOW.] This is another hill, situated
near Brassington, on the right of the road leading
to Buxton. Here is a lar;e harrow, in which hu-
man remains have been found, protected by chests
or coffins, formed of four separate stones, a fifth
constituting the lid.

STANTON.] Tin's village is situated in the hun-
dred of High Peak, three miles and a half sotith-
soirth-east from Bakewoll.* The manor is the joint
property of the Duke of Rutland and Bache Thorn-
hill, Ksq. the latter of vviiom has a residence here,
on a demesne which has been the property of him-
self and his ancestors, for more than two hundred
years. Stanton manor, with some others in the
neighbourhood, formerly belonged to the Foljambe
family.

AtScantonMoor,a rocky, uncultivated waste, about
two miles in length, and nearly as broad, are numer-
ous rocking-stones, harrows, rock-basons, circles of
erect stores, &c. which have generally been sup-
posed o/ Druidical origin. At the south end of the
moor, is a remarkable assemblage of grit-stone
rocks, extending in length upwards of 200 feet, and
rising to the height of about 130 or 140. This pile
is distinguished by the name of the Router, or Roo-
tor-rocks ; an appellation which appears to have
been derived from the various rocking-stones near
the summit : as it is a common expression in the
provincial dialect, that a thing " roos" backward
and forward. Its general position is undoubtedly
natural, and was probably occasioned by the sinking
of the surrounding strata ; but the forms and ar-
rangements of many stones on the upper part, evince
traces of design. Near the east' end is a vast block
of an irregular shape, estimated to weigh about fifty
tons, which was formerly a rocking-stone, that could
be shaken by the hand : it is now immoveable, hav-
ing been forced from its equilibrium by the silly ef-
forts of fourteen young men, who assembled for the
purpose on Whit-Sunday, in the year 1799. A lit-
tle to the north, is a second rocking-stone, similar
in shape to an egg, which may be moved by a single
finger, though four yards in length, and nearly five
ia girth. Directly north, is a third rocking-stone,
resembling the second both in figure and facility of
motion ; and at the west end, are seven stones piled
on each other, various in size and form, hut two or
three very large ; all of which may be shaken by the
pressure of one hand.

The huge masses which occupy the summit of the
Router rocks, range from east to west along the
middle of the hill, and have had a narrow passage,
and two chambers, or caves, cut within them. The
largest cave, having a rcmarkible sound, Iras been

* There is also Stanton, in the hundred of Repton and
Gresley, twelve miles and a halt' south-west by south from
Derby ; Stanton-by-Biidge, also in the hundred of Repton and

named the Echo ; its length is five yards, its width
four, and its height about three. The origin of these
excavations cannot have be.^n very remote, as the
marks of the pick on the sides are visible and fresh.
They were probably formed about the same period
as an elbow-chair near the west end on the north
side, which has been rudely shaped on the face of a
large mass of stone, and has a seat for one person
on each side of it. This is said to have been exe-
cuted by the direction of Mr. Thomas Eyre, who in-
habited the ancient manor-house, called Router Hall,
near the foot of the hill on the south, about sixty
years ago, and used frequently to entertain company
on this elevated spot. A hollow, in the stone which
forms the highest point of these rocks, Mr. Rooke
supposes to have been a rock-bason ; he also men-
tions a second rock-bason on the north-west side.
Nearly a quarter of a mile west of Router is another
assemblage of large rocks, forming a similar kind of
hill, called Bradley Tor ; on the upper part of which
is a rockipg stone nearly eleven yards in circumfer-
ence, of an orbicular shape, and- raised above the
ground by two stones, having a passage- between,
them. Its conformity to the description of the Tol-
men given by Dr. Borlase in his Antiquities of Corn-
wall, has induced an opinion of its having been a
rock idol.

Near the south-west side of Stanton Moor is an
elevated ridge, rising into three craggy eminences,
respectively named Cardiff Rocks, (Jraned Tor, and
Durwood Tor. On the top of the former are several-
rock-basons, varying in diameter from two to three
feet ; and near the bottom, towards the west, is a
stnall cave, called the Hermitage, at the east end of
which is a rude figure of a crucifix, between three
and four feet high, sculptured in alto-relievo on the
solid rock. In the inner part is a seat, and a recess,
apparently intended for a sleeping-place. Graucd
Tor, called also Robin Hood's Stride and Mock
Beggar's Hall, is a singular heap of rocks, which
Mr. Rooke supposes to have been anciently a group
of Druidical monuments. On one rock, which seems
to have fallen from the top, and is ten yards in cir-
cumference, arc four rock-basons ; and at the bot-
tom of another, a rock-bason of an oval form, four
feet in length, and two feet ten inches wide, which
appears to have been cut with a tool. This bason
is sheltered by a massive stone, placed in a sloping
direction against the rock. The uppermost points
of this Tor are two vast stones, standing upright,
eah six yards high, and about twenty-two apart, at
a distance resembling the chimnies of an ancient
mansion-house, from which circumstance the pile
obtained its appellation of Mock Beggar's Hall.
Round the bottom of the hill there seems to have
been a fence of broken masses of stone. On the top
of Durwood Tor are three rock-basons, artificially

Greiley, six miles and a quarter south by east from Derby ;
and Stanton-lu-Uale, in the hundred of Morlestnn and Lit-
church, eight miles and a half east by north from Derby.

formed j

DERBYSHIRE.

formed ; anil an impending crag, or rock-canopy,
which overhangs what has been denominated an
" augurial seat." At Durwood, on removing a
large stone, an urn was discovered half lull of burnt
bones ; and near it two ancient Querns, or hand-
mill-stones,*

In a field north of Grancd Tor, called Nine-Stone
Close, are the remains of a Dfuidical Circle, about
forty feet in diameter, now consisting of seven rude
stones, of various dimensions ; one Of them about
eight feet iu height, and nine in circumference.
About 230 feet to the south, are two other stones, of
similar dimensions, erect. About a quarter of a mile
west of the little valley which separates HartleMoor
from Stanton Moor, is an ancient elliptical work,
called Castle Ring, which Mr. Rooke supposes to
Lave been a British encampment. Its diameter,
from south-east to north-west, is fifty-five yards ;
its length, from north-east to south-west, eighty.
It was encompassed by a deep ditch and double val-
lum, but part of the latter has been levelled by the
plough. In a small enclosure, adjoining the north-
west end of Stanton Moor, are some remarkably
situated rocks ; on two of which are the following
inscriptions, cut in Roman capitals about 180
years ago, by an ancestor of the Gallon family, who
possessed the estate. " Res rustica qua? sine dubi-
tatione proxima et quasi consanguinea sapientise est,
tarn discentibus eget quam magistris."t "Nihil est
homini libero dignius, et quod mihi ad sapientis vi-
tam proximo videtur accedere."J

About half a mile north-east from the Router
Rocks, is a Druidical Circle, thirty-three feet in
diameter, called The Nine Ladies, composed of the
same number of rude stones, from three to four feet
in height each. A single stone, termed the King,
stands at the distance of a hundred feet. Near this
circle, are several cairns and barrows ; most of which
have been opened, and various remains of ancient
customs discovered in them. On the east side of
the moor, near the edge of a declivity overlooking
Darley-Dale, are three remarkable stones, standing
about a quarter of a mile from each other in a north
and south direction. One of these, called Cats'
Stone, is on the verge of a precipice, and has a road
leading to it, cut through a surface of loose stones
and rock : the second is named Gorse Stone : and
the third, which is the largest, is called Heart Stone,
ajid measures twenty-seven yards in circumference.
Several other stones of singular forms may be ob-
served on different parts of the moor ; and particu-
larly one called the Andle Stone, about a quarter of

* Similar stones have been found in Yorkshire and Wilt-
shire ; and are yet in common use in the Hebrides.

f Translation. Rural employment, which unquestionably
approaches the nearest, and is as it were related to wisdom, re-
quires both learning and philosophy.

J Translation. There is nothing more becoming a noble
person, or which appears to approach nearer to the life
of a wise man.

a mile eastward of the Router Rocks : this is about
five yards high, and appears to have been formed
by art.

SUDBURY.] Sudbury, where the petty sessions
for the hundred of Appletree are holden, lies four-
teen miles west by south from Derby. In the reiga
of Edward II. the manor was a possession of th
Montgomery family, who held it till the reign of
Henry VIII. when the youngest daughter and co-
heiress of Sir John Montgomery, conveyed it, by
marriage, to Sir John Veruon, whose descendant,
Lord Veruon, is now the proprietor. The family man-
sion was built about the commencement of the seven-
teenth century, by Mary, widow of John Vernon,
Esq. grandson to Sir John. Several of the apart-
ments are fitted up iu an elegant manner, and a good
gallery runs through the house ; in which are por-
traits of the Lords Cromwell and Stafford, and Sir
John Vernon, three of the favourites of Charles the
First ; with other paintings.

The church is an ancient fabric, standing in the
garden near the house ; and being luxuriantly co-
vered with ivy, it forms a picturesque object. Here
the ancestors 'of the family for upwards of two cen-
turies have been deposited, and various monuments
to their memory have been erected. The following
inscription, on a neat mural monument) in comme-
moration of Catherine, daughter of the late Lord
Vernon, who died at the age of twenty-five, was
written by Whitehead, the Laureat :

Mild as the opening morn's serenesl ray,

Mild as the close ot Summer's softest day ;

Her form, her virtues, (form'd alike to please

With artless charms, and unassuming ease ;)

On every breast their mingling influence stole,

And in sweet union breath'd one beauteous whole*

This fair example to the world was lent

As the short lesson of a life well spent :

Alas, too short '.but bounteous Heaven best knows

When to reclaim the blessings it bestows.

SBTTON,] Sutton, or Sutton-in-the-Dale, is si-
tuated in the hundred of Scarsdale, four miles east-
south-east from Chesterfield, The manor, which, at
the Conquest, belonged to Roger Poitou, and was
subsequently in the Harstones, Greys, Leakes, &c.
is now, or was lately, the property and residence of
Thomas Kinnersley, Esq. who succeeded ^o the
estate, under the will of Godfrey Bagnall Clarke,
Esq. Sutton Hall is an ancient and spacious build-
ing, standing on elevated ground, and commanding
some fine views over the adjacent country.

SWARKESTON.] The village of Swarkeston is si-

The Vernon family is of great antiquity. They are de-
scended from the Lords of Vernon in Normandy ; one of whom,
Richard de Vernon, accompanied William the Conqueror to
England, and was one of the seven Barons created by Hugli
Lupus, the great Earl of Chester. Sir Ralph de Vernon, who
was alive in the reign of Edward the Second, was styled the
Long- Liver, from his great age, which is said to have been 150
years. The first of this family invested with a -peerage, was
George Venables Vernon, created in 1762.

tuated

DERBYSHIRE.

tuated in the hundred of Repton and Gresley, six
jniles south by east from Derby. At this place is
Swarkeston Bridge, said to be the longest bridge in
Europe, which crosses the Trent, and low meadows
subject to be overflowed by that river. It was ori-
ginally constructed, several centuries ago, at the ex-
j>ence, according to tradition, of two maiden sisters.
When the great length of the bridge, however,
which extends to the distance of three quarters of a
mile, is considered, it renders the tradition impro-
bable, as the expence of such an undertaking must,
in former age*, have exceeded the ability of private
individuals. The number of arches is about twenty-
nine. Part of the fabric was rebuilt, some years
ago.

THORP CLOUD.] This is an immense hill, in the
neighbourhood of Ashtarne, rising to a great height,
in the form of a triucated cone. Near this is a to-
lerably good descent into a deep hollow, called
Bunster-Dale ; one side of which is bounded by a
steep acclivity, finely covered with wood ; and the
other, by a range of lofty crags, of wild, uncouth
appearance. This ravine extends above half a mile,
when, by a sudden turn, it unites with the southern
extremity of Dove Dale.

TIDESWELL.] This little market-town is situated
in the hundred of High Peak, 32 miles north-north-
west from Derby, and 160f north-west by north
from London. It is understood to have received its
name from an ebbing and flowing well, which was
formerly regarded as one of the wonders of the
Peak ; but the phenomenon has long ceased.* The
town 'is seated amongst moors, and is surrounded
by bleak hills. Its buildings are scattered on the
opposite sides of a clear rivulet. Wednesday is the
market day ; and the fairs are on the 3d of May,

* There is another ebbing and flowing well, situated nearly
midway between Chapel-in-the- Frith and Tideswell, close to
the souili side of the turnpike road, and immediately under a
steep hill, which rises to the height ol more than 100 feet. This
well, observe the Editors of the Beauties of England and Wales,
" is merely a small pool, of an irregular form, but nearly ap-
proaching to a square, from two to three feet deep, and about
six or seven yards iu width. The motion of the water from
which it has obtained its name, is by no means regular, hut seems
lo depend on the quantity of rain which falls in the different
seasons of the year. In very dry seasons, it has sometimes
ceased to flow for two, three, or four weeks toadher ; and
several instances of this kind have, been observed within the last
thirty or forty years. Sometimes it flows only once in twelve
hours: but at others, every hour ; and in very wet weather,
perhaps twice or thrice within that time. When' it first begins
to rise, the current can only be perceived by the slow movement
of the blades of grass, or other light bodies that float upon the
surface : yet, before the expiration of a minute, the water issues
in considerable quantity, with a guggling noise, from several
small apertures on the south and west sides. The interval of
time between the ebbing and flowing is not always the same ;
and, of course, the quantity of water it discharges at different
periods must also vary. In October, 1 802, after a few showery
days, it flowed and ebbed once in about three quarters of an
hour ; the whole time it continued to flow was four minutes and
a half. In this space it rose more than five inches ; and would
probably have been three times that height, if the water had

VOL. II. NO. 51.

the second Wednesday in September, and the 29th
of October. The population, which is supported
chiefly by the mining business, was, according to the
last returns, 1219.

The manor of Tideswell anciently belonged to
William Peverel, and being afterwards vested in,-
King John, was given by him to his esquire ; a fe-
male descendant from whom, in Richard the Se-
cond's time, being married to a Stafford, had with
her husband a grant of a weekly market and yearly
fair there. It afterwards came to the Meurrills, or
Meverills, of Throwley, in Staffordshire ; and was
conveyed by the marriage of an heiress to Lord
Cromwell, of Oakham, in Rutlandshire, one of whose
descendants sold it to the Eyres, of Highlow. Sub-
sequently to the death of the last male heir of that
family, the manor was sold, under the Court of
Chancery, to the late Duke of Devonshire.

Tideswell Church is a handsome building of the
conventual form, with a neat tower at the west end,
terminated by eight pinnacles. In the chancel is a-
flat stone inscribed to the memory of John, son of
Thomas Foljambe, who died in the year 1358, and
is said to have contributed towards the building of
the church. Here is also a curious table monument
inscribed to Sampson Meverill, who was born in the
year 1388, and died in lMr2. From the inscription,
it appears that, within two years, he was in eleven
battles in France, where he served under the com-
mand of the great Duke of Bedford, who knighted
him at St. Luce, and made him Knight Constable
of England, &c. On this tomb, bread is given
away every Sunday to the parochial poor. Another
monument records the memory of a native of Tides-
well, named Robert Pursglovo, described as a Prior
of (JisWrn Abbey, Prebend of Hotherham, and Bt-

been confined ; but as one side of the pool is lower than the
other, the water falls into a ditch that skirts the road. Having
j ceased to flow, it remained a few seconds stationary, and then
began to run back. The retrograde motion continued nearly
three minutes, when the well assumed its former quiescent stale.
This curious phenomenon does not appear to have been satis-
factorily explained, as the principle on which the syphon acts,
will only account for the intermittent flowing of the water; the
cause of its ebbing being still unresolved. The opinion of a
! second syphon, as ingeniously advanced by a modern traveller,
j which begins to act only when the water rises, or is near its
height, seems inconsistent with the. appearance of the well ; as
water continues to ebb for sixty or eighty seconds after its de-
crease has left a sufficient opening for the admission of the air
into the supposed reservoir in the hill. Admitting the existence
of one natural syphon, may we not account for the return of
the water, by supposing an interior cavity on a level somewhat
lower than the passages which communicate with the well,
having a distinct outlet, but too contracted to give issue to all
the water that flows from the siphon. The overplus will, in
consequence, be discharged iuio the well, where it finds rent,
and flows out till the syphon has ceased to act. When this
happens, the interior cavity, no longer receiving more water
than its distinct aperture can carry off, begins to empty, and
receiving back that portion of the water from the well which
lies above the level of the communicating passages, discharges
it by its own outlet.'.'

x> shop

DERBYSHIRE.

shop of Hull, who died in the year 1579. Henry
the Eighth allowed him a pension ; his conduct
having been so obsequious, that, after he had effect-
ed the surrender of his own house, he was employed
as a commissioner to persuade others to do the like.
At the beginning of Queen Mary's reign, he was
made Archdeacon of Nottingham, Suffragan Bishop
of Hull, &c. but refusing to take the oath of supre-

. macy to Queen Elizabeth, he was deprived of his
archdeaconry, and other spiritualities, in the year
1-560. He afterwards retired to this town, and
founded a grammar-school, which adjoins the
hurch-yard ; and an hospital for twelve poor peo-
ple. In the south transept is a tomb, with whole

'length figures of a man and a woman, of whom no-
thing is with certainty known ; but tradition repre-
sents them as the effigies of Thurstan de Bower

* William Fitzherbert, Esq. of this place, who died in the
year 1772, had two surviving sons, William and Alleyne. Wil-
liam, the eldest, was created a Baronet in 1783, and died in
1791 : his youngest son, Henry, is now the possessor of the
estate and title. Alleyne, the younger brother of Sir William,
has attained some diplomatic eminence. He has been Minister
at Brussels, St. Petersburg!), and Madrid ; Secretary to a Lord
Lieutenant of Ireland; and in 1782 he negoriated the peace of
which preliminaries were signed at Paris in the January of the
year following. He was raised to an Irish Peerage in 1791 ;
and to a Peerage of Great Britain and Ireland in 1801, by the
title of Baron St. Helen's.

}- The poems of Sir Aston Cokayne, of this family, whom

we have mentioned in a preceding note, were published in the

year 1658. Amidst much doggrel, they occasionally present

.; features of no slight merit. This will be evident from the fol-

' 'lowing stanzas, intituled, " Of Women," which have been

made very free with by Anacreon Moore, in one of his most

beautiful songs, on the same subject.

I wonder why by foul-mouth'd me

Women so slander'd be,
Since it so easily doth appear

They're better far than we.

Why are the Graces every one

Pictur'd as women be,
If not to shew that they in grace

Do more excell than we ?

Why are the liberal Sciences

Pictur'd as women be,
But t' shew if they would study them

They'd more excell than we.

And yet the Senses every one

As men should piclur'd be,
To make it known that women are

Less sensual than we.

Why are the Virtues every one
^. Pictur'd as women be ;
w If not to shew that they in them
Do more excell than we?

Since women are so full of worth,

Lrt them all praised be ;
For commendations they deserve.

In ampler wise than we.

and his wife, who are said to have built the tran-
sept.

TIBSJNGTON.] The village of Tissington is situ-
ated in the Wapentake of Wirksworth, four miles
and a half north from Ashborne. Tissington Hall,
the original sec.t of the Fitzherbert family in this
county,* formerly belonged to the Savages, and
from them descended, through the Herthulls, Mey-
uells, Clintons, Fraunceys, and Cokaines.f

TUNSTED.] Tunsted, the birth-place of the cele-
brated James lirindley, whose superior judgment in
planning canals, and ability in overcoming every
difficulty which occurred to impede their progress,
will ever retain a distinguished place in the annals
*f inland navigation, % is a hamlet to the parish of
Tideswell, from which town it is distant three miles
and a quarter west by south.

WHETTON.

J James Brindley was born in the year 1716. His father
possessed a small freehold ; but a destructive partiality for field
amusements haviug obliged him to alienate his property, hi*
son's education was neglected, and he was obliged to < ontribute
to support the family by the lowest occupations of rustic labour.
At the age of seventeen, he apprenticed himself to a mill-
wright, named Bennet, who resided at Macclesfie Id, in Cheshire.
Here his mechanical genius began to display itself, and he exe-
cuted several ingenious pieces of work without hnving had any
previous instruction. His knowledge of the principles of me-
chanism continuing to increase, he introduced several improve-
ments into his business : these performances obtained him cele-
brity ; and on the expiration ef his servitude, his master en-
trusted to him the management of his t>ade. Sorm- years after-
wards, he commenced business for himself, and by various new
and ingenious contrivances, greally extended his reprtution.
In 1752 he was employed to erect a water-engine of extraordi-
nary powers, for the purpose of draining some coal mines in the
neighbourhood of C'lifton, in Lancashire. In the progress of
this undertaking, he evinced the possession of those peculiar
abilities through which he ultimately became eminent, by driv-
ing a tunnel through the rock nearly 600 yards in length, to
convey a stream of water from the river Irwell, for the purpose
of turning a wheel fixed thirty feet beneath the surface of the
earth. In 1755 he was employed to execute the larger wheels
for a silk-mill at Congleton; and a person who was engaged to
make other parts of the machinery, and to superintend the whole,
proving incapable of completing the work, the business was
entirely committed to Brindley ; who not only executed the
original plan in a masterly manner, but made many curious
and valuable improvements, as well in the construction of the
engine itself, as in the making the wheels and pinions belonging
to it. About this time, also, the mills for grinding flints in the
Staffordshire potteries received several improvements from his
ingenuity. In the year 1756, he undertook to erect a steam-
engine, upon a new plan at Newcastle under Line ; and was for
a time very intent upon a variety of contrivances for improving
this useful piece of mechanism. But, from these designs he
was, happily for the public, called away, to take the lead in
what the event has proved to be a national concern of high
importance the projecting of the system of Canal Navigation.
The Duke of Bridgewater had formed a design of carrying a
canal from his coal works at Worsley, to Manchester, and was
induced, by the reputation of Mr. Brindley, to consult him, as
to the most judicious mode of executing it; and having the
sagacity to perceive, and strength of mind to confide in, the
original and commanding abilities of this sel